Qantas Magazine | October 22

DINE

AUSTRALIA’S

OF THE

CRUISE AN

EXPEDITION WITH WILDLIFE

TAP

THE

OF A

OFFICE

Overseas model with optional equipment shown.

Future is an attitude

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We were born here. Welcome to our home, the Mediterranean Sea – the scents, the flavours, the sky and the wonders underneath it. We have the perfect ships to reach every special corner in 13 countries. Be our guest, and get closer to the authentic beauty of the Mediterranean.

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• Butler service in every suite category

• Onboard gratuities

• Unlimited Wi-Fi

• Shore excursions

Beautiful Oia town on Santorini island, Greece

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*Terms and Conditions: Door-to-Door All-Inclusive fares will increase 1 December 2022 if not prior. Door-to-Door All-Inclusive 15% reduced and refundable deposit offer will be applied to all voyages for bookings done until 30 November 2022. Fares and itineraries vary by sail date. Offers are valid for new individual bookings made during promotional period and may be withdrawn at any time without notice. Promotional air offer is only available to the first and second full-fare guests in a suite. Valid for select gateways to guests from Australia only. Silversea reserves the right to select the air carrier, routing and departure airport from each gateway city. Deviations to air travel dates accepted; surcharges may apply. All fares, savings, offers, itineraries, and programs are subject to change without notice. Voyage highlights, excursions, and enrichment programs are subject to change and/or cancellation without prior notice. All information contained herein is accurate and in effect as of 26 August 2022. Silversea reserves the right to correct any errors and omissions and to cancel any offered product or service in the event of such error or omission. Additional restrictions may apply. For complete terms and conditions and promotional period dates visit silversea.com

OCTOBER 2022

Know

23

46

The people, places and pop culture to put on your radar

Spotlight on Vancouver: the cool and classic attractions

Dine

53

Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards special The winning drinks lists and where to find them

Discover

Food and wine special

72 Where chefs eat Top restaurateurs reveal their favourite dining spots

84 Super stars The unexpected cities where you’ll find Michelin restaurants

92

Island of plenty Chef Andrew McConnell’s ode to the Sicilian isle of Pantelleria

104 Coming in hot Shift your drinking and eating habits with the latest food trends

114

Farm it out Experience the hospitality and authentic dishes at agriturismo stays

Renee Kemp. Jo McGann

OCTOBER 2022

121 From the balmy Mediterranean to the icy wonders of Greenland, there’s a cruise for every traveller

Cruise special Design

148 On The Inside: Le Chacuel, California

152 Creative Process: Lucy O’Doherty

154 Foundations: Grace Farms, Connecticut

156 The Statement: Scape dining chair

158 The Look: Men’s and women’s fashion

On board

185 Inflight entertainment

190 Health, safety and security on board and when you land

194 Games

Innovate

164 Work It Out: Strategies for a productive and adaptable workplace in the post-COVID era

172 View From The Top: Michael Brand, director, Art Gallery of NSW

176 Small Business: How SMEs can stand out from the crowd to win and keep customers

180 Career Path: Therese McCarthy Hockey, executive director of banking, APRA

182 Upstart: Uluu

more travel inspiration,

Steven Moore. Melissa Findley and Ryan Field

Stephanie Gilmore –Sally Fitzgibbons –Kelly Slater

Content Director

Jessica Irvine Deputy Content Director Faith Campbell Content Manager Natalie Reilly

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Qantas magazine is published for Qantas Airways Ltd (ABN 16 009 661 901) by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Level 1, 83 Bowman Street, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2022. All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Qantas Airways Ltd or Medium Rare Content Agency. ISSN 1443-2013. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, please visit mediumrarecontent.com.

Managing Director Nick Smith Chief Commercial Officer Fiorella Di Santo Head of Content, Travel Kirsten Galliott Digital Director Karla Courtney Head of Multimedia Aidan Corrigan Head of Audience Intelligence Catherine Ross Financial Controller Leslie To Finance Manager Yane Chak Junior Accountant Yongjia Zhou

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Kirsten Galliott

FROM THE EDITOR

When anyone I know is coming to Hobart, they send me an email.

“Where should I eat?” In celebration of our annual food and drink issue, here’s the list I send my friends...

1. Peppina – part of luxury hotel The Tasman – is the restaurant Hobart didn’t know it needed. Order Massimo Mele’s exquisite pasta and ask Michael “Fish” Fisher for his spot-on wine recommendations.

2. Institut Polaire is a gorgeous wine bar that offers innovative bites alongside Domaine Simha wines and Süd Polaire gin.

3. Templo sits just 25 and features a six-course menu, lo-fi wines and a neighbourhood feel.

4. I haven’t yet made it to Dier Makr, although I love its wine bar, Lucinda. Friends rave about its contemporary tasting menu.

5. Fico is fine dining at its finest, with a cracking wine experience to match. Sundays are more casual, with a short à la carte menu.

6. For views and local produce cooked with heart, book ahead for Aloft, on Brooke Street Pier, to feel part of the river action.

7. The Henry Jones Art Hotel has the upscale Landscape Restaurant & Grill and the more casual Peacock and Jones (with a menu overseen by Ben Milbourne).

8. Up for a drive? Don’t miss The Agrarian Kitchen in New Norfolk; Fat Pig Farm, home to gourmet farmer Matthew Evans, in the Huon Valley; and Van Bone, a rammed-earth gem in Marion Bay.

9. Raise a glass to wine bars Sonny, The Glass House, Lupin and Willing Bros. (I’m also excited to try Stefano Lubiana’s soon-tobe-revealed Molto and Matt Breen’s Ogee.)

10. There’s lots of quality caffeine in Hobart (and you can get good coffee and excellent bread at the Pigeon Hole café in West Hobart). But the café I love the most? Sunbear in the CBD for wicked toasties and a laid-back atmosphere. Salut!

Kirsten Galliott Editor-in-Chief

kirstengalliott

Our writers are not armchair travellers. Even in a pandemic. Rest assured any assistance we accept from the travel industry in the course of preparing our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.

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Where to find world-class dining in Bali

From refined street food to topnotch brunch and sustainable fine dining, here are the island’s hottest eateries.

15 of the buzziest restaurants and bars in London

These trending spots showcase the city’s best: a nose-to-tail eatery, a Mexican cocktail bar and a diner that seats just 10.

Epic Australian food moments you need to book right now

Dine under the desert sky, take in a Picasso with champagne and caviar or enjoy a dégustation tailor-made for you.

FROM THE CEO

When QF12 departed New York with only 76 passengers on 21 March 2020, just after Australia’s borders closed, we didn’t know that it would be the last Qantas flight from the Big Apple for more than three years.

That hiatus will end in June next year, when we start flying our new Sydney to New York services via Auckland. The flights will initially operate three times a week on our Boeing 787 Dreamliners. We know from customer feedback on our direct London and Rome services how well suited these aircraft are for longer international flights. We designed them to have more room and fewer seats than you’ll find on most other airlines. Flying to New York via Auckland provides better connectivity from more destinations in Australia compared to when we used to fly via Los Angeles.

We’re also revamping our Auckland lounge to make it larger and more comfortable, and like all our international lounges, it will feature the best local food and wine.

For customers who’d prefer to fly direct, we’re only a few years away from linking the east coast of Australia to New York and London in a single hop on our new Airbus A350 aircraft, as part of Project Sunrise.

Last month we added Tokyo and Bengaluru to our route map and this month we welcome back Santiago, meaning Qantas again directly connects every inhabited continent on earth, the only airline to do so.

While the restart of more routes is exciting, we also know there have been some operational challenges over the past few months. We’ve put a lot of effort into fixing these issues and we’re now seeing our service return to the standards we all expect. My thanks goes to our amazing people, who have worked tirelessly in difficult circumstances to ensure we get back to our best.

Lounge network expands

As more people head off on long-awaited journeys, Qantas is upgrading a host of its lounges to ensure a more comfortable experience. As well as redesigning the lounge at Auckland International Airport, Qantas is also investing in local destinations. Adelaide Domestic Airport will welcome a Business lounge, while its Chairmans Lounge and Qantas Club are to be refurbished. There will be a new lounge at Rockhampton Airport and an expanded one at Port Hedland Airport by the end of this year.

Connect to Qantas Fast and Free Wi-Fi

Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps:

Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings.

Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect.

Once you’re connected, you’re ready to access the internet and start exploring.

Having trouble connecting? Make sure you’re connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start the connection process. To ensure an enjoyable flight for everyone, keep flight mode activated, switch your device to silent and refrain from voice and video calls.

We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the land on which we work, live and fly. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and are committed to honouring Australian Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples’ unique cultural and spiritual relationship to the land and water.

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The South Pacific nation to put on your travel list

yourself in the creative hub of Bundanon

pick of the top hotels on the Gold Coast

The Arthur Boyd: Landscape of the Soul exhibition at Bundanon, NSW

The

ISLAND ESCAPE

Samoa means “people of the deep sea”, which makes poetic sense for a tropical nation made up of two large islands, Savai’i and Upolu, and a cluster of smaller ones, halfway between New Zealand and Hawaii. After two-and-a-half years, Samoa has reopened its borders and locals are keen to show off its natural wonders and their way of life. Australians can take the six-hour flight (from Sydney) to stretch out on soft sand and paddle in crystal-clear waters but the beaches are only the beginning...

Find an unforgettable swimming spot Few images of Samoa are more enticing than the To-Sua Ocean Trench on Upolu. The 30-metredeep pool shimmers with light that shines down into an open cave. Experienced divers can swim through the cave and out to sea but if you’d rather be in being surrounded by steep cliffs and lush gardens while you float, climb down the long ladder to the platform and jump into the cool water. Just as spectacular, the Afu Aau Waterfall looks like it’s in Avatar ; the colours of the water and the bush around it appear to glow. The falls are in the south-east of Savai’i and reachable by a ferry that usually takes about an hour across the Apolima Strait.

Snorkel among coral reefs Uninhabited but for a small cluster of thatched fales (there’s no electricity but it’s possible to stay the night), Namu’a Island, off Upolu’s south-east coast, is ideal if you want to go off- grid and swim and snorkel its majestic coral reefs. On Savai’i, you can visit Satoalepai Turtle Sanctuary, where villagers raise baby turtles and nurse injured adults back to health before they’re released into the wild.

Go on an epic rainforest hike There’s so much to see on the Falease’ela River Walk, from the gigantic, 1000-year-old trees to cascading waterfalls and fluorescent-coloured birds. An hour’s drive south-west of Apia on Upolu,

the trail offers all this and spectacular lava formations. The journey takes four to six hours along the Liua le Vai o Sina River so take a guided walk with eco-tour outfit Lalotalie River Retreat (Faleseela, Le Faga, Apia; +685 77 48759), which offers lunch and overnight stays nearby.

Spend the night by the water For a luxury beachside stay, try the Taumeasina Island Resort (hotel.qantas.com.au/taumeasina

islandresort), a new hotel on Upolu with 104 air-conditioned rooms, a spa, three restaurants serving local and international cuisine and activities including a fiafia (celebration) night every Saturday. A few minutes walk from the ferry terminal on Savai’i, Lusia’s Lagoon Chalets (hotel.qantas. com.au/luisaslagoonchalets) has rustic overwater bungalow suites. Set your alarm to get up and watch the sunrise and swim in the blue lagoon.

STORY BY BEN MACK

If a laid-back break in the South Pacific beckons (of course, it does), make Samoa your next stop.

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Piece

Virginia Trioli

The award-winning journalist and broadcaster spends her mornings co-hosting ABC News Breakfast . Here’s what fills the rest of her days.

The last book I read was…

INTERVIEW BY NATALIE REILLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

The podcast I listen to the most is…

Good Arguments by champion Australian debater Bo Seo. In a time when no-one wants to hear any view that doesn’t conform to their own, Seo’s beautifully written and very witty book is a tonic: he’s coached the Harvard and Australian national debating teams and his argument that debating can teach us how to listen and disagree better is one I deeply connect with (okay, I was a school debater, too). Because if I can’t get an audience to engage in the meaningful contest of ideas then there’s no hope for us!

A confession: I’m not really a podcast person. I find after hours of my own “blah blah blah” and many different people and voices in my head, I need silence or some music. But if I do listen, I usually go back to Malcolm Gladwell’s Revisionist History to be jolted awake by his challenge of seeing an old issue through a new perspective. Hmmm, I think there’s a theme developing here...

The last show I streamed was…

I’m semi-embarrassed to admit it but HBO’s Industry is enthralling: young money-market wannabes trading their way through deals I barely understand then partying the night away in fabulous London bars is a safe and thoroughly enjoyable way of vicariously making some very bad choices. It’s brilliantly scripted and gorgeous-looking. The GFC changed precisely nothing, by the way.

The app I spend the most time on is…

I’m not embarrassed to say that it’s 1stDibs , the luxury resale app, on which you could buy a 1900 Lalique vase for $25,000 or an original Dior gown for something similar. I don’t buy a single thing but it’s like getting a private tour of the great homes of the world and discovering the kinds of things that would be put out on the sidewalk of a Fifth Avenue apartment building if there was a hard-rubbish collection. It’s a lot of fun.

Culture Trip

BUNDANON, NSW

When Sophie O’Brien first wound her way up Bundanon’s bunya pine-lined driveway, two black cockatoos were looping lazy circles above her. “It was a great omen,” says the head of curatorial and learning, laughing. “Almost like they were welcoming me. My first impression was of the legacy of creative endeavours here – I thought, ‘This is a place for makers.’” Birds with a flair for hospitality might seem far-fetched elsewhere but at Bundanon (bundanon. com.au) – the 1000-hectare NSW South Coast sanctuary gifted to the Australian people by artist Arthur Boyd and his wife, Yvonne, in 1993 – even the trees, with their kookaburra cackles and ghostly limbs, seem sentient.

Boyd believed that “no one man can ever own a landscape” but thanks to a recent $33-million expansion that includes an accommodation, dining and creative hub stretching across a valley in a 160-metre-long architectural feat known as

The Bridge, you can – if only for a night or so. Immersion, says CEO Rachel Kent, is the entire point. “Our experience packages are unique in terms of cultural tourism in this country.” Guests stay in one of 32 minimalist rooms, blackbutt panelling paying homage to the scrub while low, wide windows create real-world frames to the views that inspired some of Boyd’s most important works. Designed to inspire, packages include farm-to-table dinners, picnic hampers, bushwalks with First Nations guides and cultural and art tours.

Bundanon’s current season is a three-part love letter to the local environment, showing until 6 November. The exhibitions – Arthur Boyd: Landscape of the Soul; The Hidden by Tim Georgeson and William Barton; and The River and the Sea by Reuben Ernest Brown (Uncle Ben Brown) –explore different ways to view the natural world, a sentiment central to Boyd’s vision for Bundanon.

Make it a weekend…

Art-lovers en route to Bundanon (travelling south) can also experience Ngununggula (ngununggula.com), Ben Quilty’s Aboriginal art-focused gallery in a repurposed Bowral milking shed. For dinner there’s Bangalay Dining (bangalayvillas.com.au) at Shoalhaven Heads, where emu tartar nestles up against wattle lavosh on a hyper-local menu. If luxury without the white tablecloth is more your speed, Jim Wild’s Oyster Shack, an unassuming joint just off the Princes Highway at Greenwell Point, will sort you out with the best just-shucked oysters in the state.

STORY BY BEK DAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZAN WIMBERLEY

A bucolic patch of Shoalhaven bushland has had a $33-million makeover, with art at its heart.

The Bridge at Bundanon

MOUNT GAMBIER, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

There’s nothing drag artist, mental health advocate and selfconfessed “king of the mount” Kyra Sykes loves to talk about more than their hometown. “Whether individuals are into the arts, sports or nature, unwavering support from the locals encourages you to keep pushing to create beautiful things.”

Macs Hotel

Sir Robert Helpmann Theatre

“The late Australian ballet dancer and director Sir Robert Helpmann is my ultimate idol, a queer person who left Mount Gambier and went on to create amazing things globally. The Sir Robert Helpmann Theatre (countryarts.org.sa) in the centre of town perfectly encapsulates everything he stood for. As I was growing up, it was the one place I felt I was able to truly be myself, even before I knew what that meant. If you sweet talk the Country Arts SA staff, they might let you enjoy the gallery of images and memorabilia of Sir Robert on the upper level. Most people don’t even know it’s there so you may just have the whole space to yourself.”

“Across the car park from the theatre is my favourite drinking hole, the historic Macs Hotel (themacshotel.com.au). It has the best cocktails in town and a great cider garden – the perfect place to taste the wide range of craft beers. You’ll often find me inside, sitting on one of the Chesterfield sofas, the well-loved pieces of furniture we call the ‘therapy couches’. If you park yourself there for long enough, you can ask the bartender, Tristan, to make one of his spicy Margarita that he creates using an exclusive bottle of chilliinfused tequila. It’s not on the cocktail menu but my friends all know to ask for ‘Kyra’s drink’.”

This historic town on the Limestone Coast is known for its sapphire-blue lakes but there’s also a creative side.

Metro Bakery & Café

“The drag scene in Mount Gambier is well-supported and while there are five of us [performers] in town, I’m the only drag king [Sykes performs under their drag name, Loveit Murray]. Tickets for the shows at Metro Bakery & Café (metro bakeryandcafe.com.au) sell out as quickly as they’re announced so you have to be quick to book. We perform on the back deck, a backdrop best described as an explosion of vibrant colour – it suits the chaos that we bring to the stage. If you can push my mum out of the way, the prime place to sit is in the middle of the front. But good luck with that.”

About Town

STORY BY DILVIN YASA

(From top left) Kyra Sykes (aka Loveit Murray); Valley Lake; a mural of Sir Robert Helpmann on Mount Gambier’s Civic Centre

From the latest novels to classic books worth discovering, these are the page-turning picks for the month.

The book everyone is reading

As 2021 Australian of the Year, Grace Tame epitomised astonishing strength by sharing her story. Anyone who has heard her talk knows how intelligent and funny and passionate her voice is. So it comes as no surprise that her memoir, The Ninth Life of a Diamond Miner, a story about love, trauma, resilience and what it’s like to be a catalyst for better understanding, is an unmissable read – and that Tame is, among her many achievements, a phenomenal writer.

The book you should be reading With her new release, The Stranger, Australian author Kathryn Hore has crafted a contemporary WELL READ

feminist Western that’s gritty, brooding and propulsive. A stranger rides into town, seeking justice. A community’s secrets are uncovered. The threat of blood in the dust permeates throughout. Taciturn figures with ambiguous motivations circle one another. This is an absolutely cracking read if you’re after a page-turner with a difference.

The non-fiction to know about What better way to track the emotional resonances and elusive moments of our past than through the songs that underscored them? And in Jonathan Seidler’s brilliant memoir, It’s a Shame About Ray, they form the basis for an account of a life that is both devastating and laugh-out-loud funny.

The Australian book to read now

If you’re a fan of Marian Keyes or have run out of Liane Moriarty books, you need to discover Toni Jordan She has six novels under her belt and each is, in its own way, a masterpiece of modern manners, sly humour and a romantic heart. In Dinner with the Schnabels, protagonist

Simon Larsen is having a tough run. His architecture business has failed, his in-laws – the Schnabels –are constantly disappointed in him and keeping his marriage alive is proving difficult. Jordan’s hapless and oblivious narrator careens from crisis to crisis in a comedy about families and modern life that is an utter delight.

The classic to revisit Archie Roach was a true legend of Australian music and his death earlier this year was a huge loss. If you haven’t already, read his 2019 memoir, Tell Me Why, a story of love, generosity and survival.

STORY

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DIVE IN

Embedded in rocky terrain, the ocean pools dotted along Australia’s seaboard offer a special kind of swimming hole. From rock pools where you share the space with marine life to concrete tubs with marked lanes and the constant tides that rush through to wash the day away, ocean pools are a summer and, for the hardy, a winter ritual. The new book Ocean Pools captures these coastal havens in crisp imagery and provides a snapshot of everyday Australian life. All you need is a towel.

With sparkling imagery, a new book takes you across the country for a dip in saltwater sanctuaries.

Ocean Pools by Marie-Louise McDermott and Chris Chen, published by Thames & Hudson Australia, $59.99, available now.

North Narrabeen Rockpool in Sydney (top); Yamba Ocean Pool in northern NSW (above)

Books

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS CHEN

MAKING THE CUT

We’ve scanned the zeitgeist for what to read, watch, wear and drink now.

1 Podcast

Just in case you missed it, Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, is hosting a new podcast called Archetypes , which knocked Joe Rogan off the number one spot two days after its release. An exploration of the stereotypes ascribed to famous women, from Old Maid to Bimbo, the pod has a guest list including Serena Williams, Constance Wu, Issa Rae, Lisa Ling and Margaret Cho, who will each share their story, from shallow archetype to woman of substance. Find it on Spotify.

2 Drink

There are whiskies and then there’s The Balvenie Twenty Five ($1200; thebalvenie.com).

Its bold flavours of vanilla oak, toasted marshmallow and crystallised ginger are the result of an innovative marriage of rare casks made with American and European oak and a quartercentury ageing process.

3 Streaming

If you thought the American tourists were badly behaved in the first season of The White Lotus , prepare for another helping of white-hot privilege in the second instalment of this dark satire about the super-rich – this time set in a luxury Sicilian resort. Again written and directed by Mike White, this spin has an all-new cast, including Michael Imperioli (The Sopranos) and Aubrey Plaza (Parks and Recreation), with one exception: Jennifer Coolidge (above, centre) as spiritually dry but romantically available lush Tanya McQuoid. Streaming on Binge from October.

4 Book

Beloved chef and restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi, who brought us the bestselling Simple, is back with co-author and chef Noor Murad with a sequel of sorts to last year’s pantry raider, Test Kitchen: Shelf Love. This one’s titled Test Kitchen: Extra Good Things and the focus is still on the pantry but with sauces, condiments and toppings – from marinated feta to herbaceous salsa – bringing flavour to the forefront.

The Edit

COMPILED BY NATALIE REILLY

5 Beauty

Famed for its antioxidant and moisturising properties, honey has begun popping up as the hero ingredient in high-end skincare, such as Guerlain Abeille Royale Advanced Youth Watery Oil (from $84; sephora.com.au) and Sisley Velvet Sleeping Mask (above, $170; sisley-paris.com). Gisou Honey Infused Hair Oil ($131; mecca.com.au) is practically dripping with the stuff, using the golden liquid as a natural humectant to keep hair soft and shiny.

6 Home

For those who are serious about their sourdough starters, an ordinary oven just won’t do. The Le Creuset Bread Oven ($540; lecreuset.com.au) is made from cast iron for effective heat distribution, with a domed lid that traps and circulates the steam so you get maximum rise from every loaf and a low base to produce a crisp crust. Available in Volcanic (above), Cerise and Satin Black.

7 Movie

In Don’t Worry Darling, Florence Pugh (above) and Harry Styles play picture-perfect 1950s couple Alice and Jack, living an idyllic existence in a closed-off suburb in California. Like all the husbands in the neighbourhood, Jack is working on a top-secret project that they believe will change the world – just so long as the wives don’t ask questions. But Alice grows suspicious and pulls at the thread of their utopian life with devastating consequences. Director Olivia Wilde says she was inspired by The Truman Show and Inception – surreal worlds where nothing is as it seems. In cinemas 6 October.

8 Food

Everyone loves a gift box but what if the hamper could give back? That’s the idea behind Madebox. (madebox.com) , a company that delivers gift boxes filled with goodies from more than 300 rural Australian artisans whose communities have been affected by bushfires, drought, COVID or floods. Whether it’s a coffee blend from Kangaroo Island or strawberry jam from the Yarra Valley, you can find out the source of your present and who it benefits.

NEW CLASSIC

Top Gun is flying again, Kate Bush is in the charts, Doc Martens are on shoe racks. The common thread? Nostalgia. While the new normal throws up challenges, consumers are rewinding a few decades to find comfort in the familiar. For its part, watchmaker Breitling is turning back time to the 1960s and ’70s. The Swiss brand recently launched a redesign of its sporty SuperOcean sea watch, recalling the original Slow Motion from that era while introducing contemporary features and a bright colour palette. This modern-retro tool watch combines the history of underwater adventure by the likes of marine explorer Jacques Cousteau with the style of a timepiece intended to be worn in the surf, epitomised by the Breitling Surfer Squad of Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons.

Love all

Maria Sharapova, Serena Williams – tennis is no stranger to precious jewellery worn on court. But the term “tennis bracelet” was born when player Chris Evert halted a match at the 1987 US Open to find a diamond bracelet that had fallen off her wrist. Innovative Italian jeweller Roberto Demeglio has taken the concept one step further, employing the patented Ex-Tensible system to render the tennis bracelet elastic so it’s safe and easy to wear. With 15.12 carats of emerald-cut sapphires, it’s good to know this gem is staying put.

Roberto Demeglio rainbow sapphire stretch bracelet in 18-carat rose-gold / $42,500 / from J Farren-Price, jfarrenprice. com.au

The case

Available in four sizes (46, 44, 42 and 36 millimetres), the watch comes in three case metals – steel, steel/gold and bronze. The ceramic-inlay bezel is scratch-proof, unidirectional on three of the sizes and bidirectional with a patented lock on the 46 millimetre. And for the present-day adventurer, the new SuperOcean is shock-, sand- and saltwater-resistant.

The dial

The Slow Motion watch was a minutesbased chronograph because it took an hour to complete a full rotation of the dial (divers don’t require a seconds hand). The latest version sees the return of the seconds hand, alongside the distinctive square minute hand, bold against a series of colourful dials. It’s water-resistant to 300 metres and features the broad hands

and indexes coated in Super-LumiNova for underwater readability.

The movement

Breitling is one of only a few watchmakers to manufacture its own calibres and the quality is confirmed by its status as a COSC-certified chronometer. Its automatic Breitling Caliber 17 comes with a two-year warranty and 38-hour power reserve.

The band

A sporty rubber strap and a new three-row metal bracelet give two band options. Each comes with a folding clasp that allows for micro-adjustments of up to 15 millimetres, making it easy to wear over a wetsuit.

The price

Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 44 watch / $6790 / breitling.com

GOLD COAST

1 Business

QT Gold Coast

This glamorous stay (hotel. qantas.com.au/qtgoldcoast), with 297 rooms and suites, is an hour’s drive south of Brisbane and 30 minutes from Gold Coast Airport. Book the King Suite Ocean View for the water vistas from the bedroom and soaking tub. Playful Japanese restaurant Yamagen offers omakase dining and the country’s largest selection of Japanese whiskies. When you have to get down to business, a conference space that seats 750 people, as well as flexible meeting rooms, reveal QT’s hospitable ethos extends to professional needs. BEK DAY

2 Family

JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa

If you leave your curtains open on the 23rd floor of this hotel (hotel.qantas.com.au/jwmarriott goldcoast), you’ll see the sunrise over the ocean, which is just a five-minute walk away. The resort’s on-site beach, saltwater lagoon and waterslide are a haven for kids while their parents relax in a cabana or at the restaurant opposite. Chef Paul Smart grows vegetables, herbs and fruit in the property’s garden to be used in its eateries, such as Citrique, a fine-diner that still caters for the kids with a pizza that has five vegies hidden in the sauce.

NATALIE REILLY

3 Luxury

The Langham

The best places to kick back at this Queensland holiday spot.

4 Couples The Star Grand

Walking into the marble-decked lobby of this beachfront hotel (hotel.qantas.com.au/langham goldcoast) in Surfers Paradise, the first thing you notice is the scent. Don’t let the fresh orchids at the entrance deceive you – it’s ginger flower, The Langham’s signature fragrance. The aroma lingers in the 169 spacious rooms – all with spectacular views –and to the resort pool, steps from the beach. Hungry? There are four eateries, including finedining Cantonese and modern Australian, plus three bars. Work it off in the health club or indulge in a massage at the spa. NR

Overlooking Broadbeach’s entertainment precinct, this property (hotel.qantas.com.au/ stargoldcoast) is in The Star casino complex – a grown-up’s playground that glitters with some of the brightest jewels in the region’s culinary crown. The five-star accommodation options include seven room styles, from the Superior Deluxe Room right through to the justthe-right-side-of-OTT Ocean Terrace Suite. Book the latter for the private terrace, nightly turn-down service and Executive Floor privileges, such as canapés and drinks from 5pm to 7pm BD

2

A piece of you since 1972.

MERCEDES-BENZ C-CLASS

A new C-Class? Tell me more. This highly popular sedan needs no introduction and this year will see a number of new variants hit local dealers, including high-performance Mercedes-AMG and electrified editions. But the first to land are the C200 and C300. So what’s new? In short, the C-Class has taken a lot of traits from its cousin, the S-Class, the marque’s famous flagship sedan, making it the most luxurious C-Class yet. It’s always been a thing of affluent comfort but this time around, the C-Class gains more space, a portrait-orientated 11.9-inch central media display with the AI-powered MBUX system, AMG Line exterior and interiors, four driving modes, 64-colour ambient lighting, wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Audio and stacks of active safety assistance – and that’s before you tick any add-on boxes. How powerful is it? The C200 has a 1.5-litre turbo petrol engine that puts out 150kW/300Nm and will dash 0-100km/h in 7.3 seconds. The C300 has a bit more grunt with a 2.0-litre turbo petrol engine that’ll do the same jump in six seconds from 190kW/400Nm of power/torque, plus 20kW of boost. What about efficiency? The C-Class hits a bit of an urban sweet spot with its new 48-volt mild hybrid system, which makes commuting in traffic more economical, quieter and cleaner for the environment. How much? From $78,900, plus on-road costs. Test drive it at an LSH Auto Australia Mercedes-Benz outlet (lshauto.com).

John and Jenny Edmondson

“We collect, propagate, grow and plant coral in order to replenish reef sites and enhance the reef’s resilience,” explains John Edmondson, who has worked in Great Barrier Reef tourism for more than 25 years and co-founded the Coral Nurture Program with his wife, Jenny, in 2018.

Joining forces with coral biologist Professor David Suggett and biogeochemist Dr Emma Camp from the University of Technology Sydney, the Edmondsons – both marine biologists – have watched as coral planted four years ago has begun to spawn. “It’s been rewarding to see new colonies grow and become home to small fish,” says John.

To make planting faster, cheaper and more convenient, he invented the Coralclip, a stainless-steel device that clamps coral fragments to the reef so they can take hold and grow. “I wanted an alternative to adhesive, cement or plastics. Coralclips are made here in Queensland and are now used in 17 countries around the world.”

The Edmondsons first met Suggett and Camp when they took the scientists out to search for corals in the mangroves on islands along the reef. “Mangroves have warm acidic water so corals growing in such conditions have developed valuable adaptations. The hope is that these corals can help identify key traits associated with thermal adaptation, which we can then look for in reef corals when selecting coral ‘parents’ for the nurseries.”

To date, more than 70,000 pieces of coral have been planted and 115 coral nurseries established across the Great Barrier Reef. On a tour with the Edmondsons’ Wavelength Reef Cruises (wavelength.com.au) you’ll see some of their work. “We strongly believe that ecotourism plays a critical role in conservation by enabling people to connect with the reef. Our work is also about raising awareness of the policies needed to help the reef by involving the whole community.”

These marine biologists are giving new life to the Great Barrier Reef, piece by piece.

STORY BY TONY MAGNUSSON

John and Jenny Edmondson (above); a coral nursery at Opal Reef

Good for you, good for the planet

Earn 10 Qantas Points per $1 when you offset your household footprint. Plus, your activity counts towards achieving Green Tier.*

Small changes, big impact

Qantas Frequent Flyers have offset 19,732 tonnes of carbon by choosing to offset their home and car this year. This is the equivalent of removing 4,485 cars off the road for a year.^

See how you can make a difference today. qantas.com/offsetyourhomeandcar

You must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer to earn and use Qantas Points. *Members will earn 10 Qantas Points per A$1 value spent on Offset your Home and Car. Offset your Home and Car cannot be redeemed for cash, and is non-refundable. This product offers carbon offsetting for Australian residents only and does not consider any other country, conditions or carbon offsetting criteria. View the full terms and conditions. To be eligible for Green Tier, complete one activity in five out of six Green Tier categories in a Membership Year and reside in Australia with an Australian residential address in your profile. Limit of one reward per individual per Membership Year. For full terms see qantas.com/greentier. ^The carbon offset equivalents are estimations calculated by our carbon offset provider TEM. 4,485 cars off the road is based on a 2022 Toyota Camry producing 4.4t/CO2e per annum if being driven 20,000kms each year.

STORY BY LANCE

Vancouver

Sure, a stopover is fun but staying a little longer reveals the lesser-known charms of this glittering Canadian city.

Is Vancouver the world’s most beautiful city? The question is subjective, of course, but on a clear summer day, with the snow-capped mountains and white yachts and green-glass apartment buildings shining in the sun, I struggle to imagine many convincing arguments otherwise. Built on the western half of a peninsula, encircled by rivers, inlets, bays and forest, its physical splendour is almost indecent. Walking around, I want to tell it to cover up.

Beautiful cities don’t need to try very hard and Vancouver could offer the absolute bare minimum of attractions and still be worth a layover. But not content to coast along on its gorgeous natural assets, the city’s stuffed itself with culture and curiosities. From a world-class Museum of Anthropology (moa.ubc.ca) to a bizarre

Spotlight

The Avocado Gimlet at L’Abattoir (above); Lions Gate suspension bridge, Stanley Park (right)

(and delectable) “sushi donut” at Uma Sushi (umasushi.ca). A speak-easy provocatively named Key Party (narrowgroup.ca), where the 1970s never ended. An old motel that’s been converted into artists’ studios and covered in vibrant murals. Vancouver – or “Van” to locals – is a laid-back and loveable overachiever.

Classic Van

Whenever I’m in town, I inevitably find myself drawn to the same starting place: the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver (hotel.qantas.com.au/ fairmontvancouver), which towers over the centre of Vancouver with its unmistakable crown of copper. Often referred to as the “Castle in the City”, the property has been a landmark since 1939, when it opened to cater to passengers on the Canadian railway. The guestrooms offer excellent views for orientation and a recently completed $84-million renovation makes it fresh and luxurious as a home base. In the lobby, between the Dior

and Gucci and Louis Vuitton shops, I spot a model with blonde braids reading what appears to be the Bible.

From here, I hit a handful of classic spots that refuse to be predictable. The Vancouver Art Gallery (vanartgallery.bc.ca), right across the street, is just as likely to feature an exhibition on artificial intelligence as it is caribou skins hand-beaded by Inuit women. To my delight, I see both of those in one visit.

Walking east, Gastown is known for its paved brick streets with evocative names like Gaoler’s Mews (which once housed the city’s first jail), plus gift shops selling the familiar line-up of souvenir maple syrups. But it’s also home to the John Fluevog flagship shoe store (fluevog.com), where I’ve spent many an hour daring myself to try on fluorescent-green penny loafers with tassels. Gastown is filled with delightful Canadian weirdness and much of the pleasure of a neighbourhood like this comes from finding a bar and settling in for some people-watching. At chic

L’Abattoir (labattoir.ca), patrons snack on pan-fried sweetbreads, though I’m more inclined towards the Avocado Gimlet – “the house mascot”, according to the tattooed bartender.

Slightly buzzed, I wander into Yaletown and pick out which apartment I’m going to own when I become a multi-millionaire. The district is urban living at its finest – high towers, all windows and balconies – and isn’t the point of travelling to live other lives? In my Vancouver fantasy life, I’d eat every week on Yaletown’s Mainland Street at somewhere like Minami (minamirestaurant. com), with its exquisite oshi sushi. I’d also drink lavender lattes and run along the False Creek waterfront, trailed by a big dog, as the real residents do.

There are many other essential Vancouver places, like Stanley Park and Capilano Suspension Bridge Park and I’m always compelled to pop over to Granville Island . Perhaps it’s because I wish that the Public Market (granvilleisland.com) existed near my house: an

emporium of gourmet delights offering everything from hot smoked salmon to salami infused with rice mash. Leaving without edible mementos seems objectively impossible; I’ve never managed it.

Cool Van

Just south of Granville Island is the Douglas Reynolds Gallery (douglas reynoldsgallery.com), which I check out on the recommendation of a friend who lives in British Columbia. The gallery specialises in historic and contemporary Northwest Coast Indigenous art. The building is difficult to miss because there’s an enormous mural by Ts’msyen artist Phil Gray, entitled Force of Nature and depicting the supernatural Salmon Woman, on the side.

When I stop by, Doug himself takes me out the back to view two cedar totem poles that are sitting in the parking lot, wrapped in cling film to hold in the water as they cure, as part of the preservation process. In a private storeroom, there are also

David Koppe

The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver (left); Douglas Reynolds Gallery (above)

elaborate snarling masks and 100-year-old Tlingit baskets that Doug has been collecting and selling since 1995. It’s an exciting reminder that the coolest stuff is often tucked out of sight.

That’s also true for the city itself, where one precinct has emerged as a hotspot for everything edgy. The first thing I notice about Mount Pleasant are the murals: Bodhidharma dolls adorn the walls of apartment blocks, abstracts decorate boutique shops and one particularly striking sequence of two images – of an old man and a young woman – exhorts passers-by to remember that “The Present is a Gift”.

This is where Vancouver goes to let its hair down. There’s a parkour gym and a bookshop that specialises in pulp fiction. Sing Sing (2718 Main Street; +1 604 336 9556), a beer and pho joint, sits next to Lucy’s Eastside Diner (lucyseastsidediner.com), where milkshakes and poutine are the order of the day. Red Cat Records (redcat.ca), marked by a neon sign of a squiggly cat, somehow convinces me to part with far too much of my hard-earned money.

I have an experiment that I conduct to gauge the quality of a neighbourhood I’ve never been to before: I pick a random street off the main drag and walk its length as a test, much as a scientist might take an ice core to survey a glacier. In Mount

Pleasant, I turn down West 4th Avenue and come face-to-face with a giant painted octopus. Then I hear the unmistakable cacophony of a band rehearsing. Then I see a WeWork. Then I encounter the Electric Bicycle Brewing Company (electricbicycle brewing.com) and people drinking IPAs. Then I see a ramen food hall. The fact that this isn’t even a particularly significant side street shows the success of my experiment: Mount Pleasant is a certified marvel.

Also a wonder is Riley’s Fish & Steak (rileysrestaurant.ca), back downtown, which recently opened to instant acclaim. It’s a mortal sin to visit this city and not have good seafood and what executive chef Jérôme Soubeyrand serves up at Riley’s is the best halibut I’ve ever tasted in my life. I go to sleep dreaming about it in my room at The Douglas (hotel.qantas.com.au/thedouglas), a hotel that’s part Marriott and part Twin Peaks, with lots of wood and mirror-and-neon-filled psychedelic elevators.

The first time I visited Vancouver, I was prepared to write it off as a beautiful but shallow city. That was five trips and more than a decade ago. Looks, as the famous saying goes, can be deceiving. Vancouver is far more than just a pretty face – it has plenty of heart, too.

John Vicente

The steam clock in Gastown (below left); street mural on Main Street, Mount Pleasant

YVR Qantas flies from Sydney to Vancouver. qantas.com

For almost three decades, Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards have celebrated the effort and skill sommeliers and restaurateurs draw on to craft the best wine and beverage lists for their establishments. From remote vineyards, beachside settings, city neighbourhoods, small bars, as well as pubs and clubs, the definitive ruling on where to find the best drinks lists in your state – and beyond – is right here.

By Alexandra Carlton

Meet the judges

Chairman of judges

Judging panel

List of the Year Awards special

Peter Forrestal

Chairman and wine writer

Deputy chairs

Amelia Ball Wine writer

Wendy Cameron

Master of Wine and winemaker

Andrew Graham Wine writer

Toni Paterson

Master of Wine and wine writer

Peter Bourne Qantas wine writer

Jane Faulkner Wine writer

Angus Hughson Wine writer

Mike Bennie Wine writer

Jeni Port Wine writer

International chair

Kim Bickley Sommelier and wine judge

Ken Gargett Wine writer

Ray Jordan Wine writer

Brian Julyan International chair and Master Sommelier

Partners

Media partners

Gill Gordon-Smith Winemaker and seller

Josh Martin Wine writer

Plus an additional domestic and international jury of 17 experts, including five Master Sommeliers and five Masters of Wine

winelistoftheyear.com.au

Major award partners Award partners

WINNER CRU BAR + CELLAR

The words “wine list” don’t do justice to the enormity and energy of the wines available at Cru Bar + Cellar (crubar.com) in Brisbane’s epicentre of fine eating and drinking, James Street in Fortitude Valley. And, in fact, it’s not just one drinks list – it’s three. A single A3-page list of by-theglass options, beers and cocktails. Then a full Coravin list – about 80 in total, including champagne – supplemented with detailed tasting notes grouped into subheadings that make for quality reading and include variations as granular as soil types in Sancerre.

And that’s before you even reach the bottle list, where there’s a staggering 1800, give or take. “It’s a mix of the cool, the quirky and the classic,” says judge Toni Paterson. “Quite simply, this is a magnificent place to drink wine.”

One person couldn’t manage a wine cellar of this breadth – Tetris-ing this list together takes a team and that’s led by retail and cellar manager Chris Walker, who’s been at Cru for 10 years and overseen the list for the past eight. The offering, he says, is a balancing act of wines that he believes will resonate with customers, “things we’re excited about or want to try” and “some unicorns” or rare wines, which he says never last long.

For Walker, naming a favourite is impossible but a close examination of the list reveals a few clear leanings – there’s a generous collection of rieslings, both Antipodean and European. “The wine team and I love riesling and, yes, we dedicate way too much space in the cellar and wine list to it but who cares?” he says with a laugh. “It’s capable of being made into so many styles, plus it ages brilliantly. From the wonderfully pure expressions made in Australia, right through to the captivating wines being produced in Germany, which to me are some of the greatest and most thought-provoking wines on the planet.”

He also dedicates solid chunks of his paper real estate to Queensland’s Granite Belt wines, which sometimes struggle to break through with sommeliers beyond the bounds of the Sunshine State. “There are some cracking wines coming out of Queensland. It’s the Mediterranean varieties that truly shine: zippy vermentino or medium-bodied tempranillo. They’re food-friendly wines that are so well-suited to our climate.”

It’s not just the Queensland drops that work well with food. If you’re pulling up a seat underneath the antique Baccarat chandelier at Cru, augment whatever’s in your glass with a little something from the kitchen, led by executive chef Richard Ousby. You might try the pork dumplings with sweet hot sauce alongside a glass of 2012 Gosset Grand Millésime Brut Champagne or a simple plate of Mount Zero olives with a Delgado Zuoleta “La Goya” Mazanilla Sherry. Dip in however you like, says judge Paterson, but accept that you’re likely going to need several trips to even begin to make a dent in this masterpiece. “It’s the ultimate destination wine bar. You need to go.”

Cru Bar + Cellar is also the winner of Best Wine Bar List, Best Champagne List and the Judy Hirst Award for the sommelier/manager responsible for the winning list, Chris Walker

With a focus on local – and three different lists to choose from –this Fortitude Valley favourite transcends expectations to offer a wine for every tastebud.

Finalists

Bennelong Sydney, NSW / bennelong.com.au

Cutler & Co. Fitzroy, Victoria / cutlerandco.com.au

Australia’s

BOTTLE ROCKETS

1

ACT WINNER

Brunello, Canberra

The tapas-style dishes served at this new CBD venue (brunello.com.au) are almost a distraction from the main player: the glorious, infinitely gluggable wine list – particularly the by-the-glass selection that’s served under both Coravin and Enomatic systems so you can try drops that may never have come into your orbit otherwise. “The opportunity to taste anything from a 2016 Penfolds Grange to a 2014 Roberto Voerzio Barolo and some lovelies from Savaterre, Josef Chromy, Mac Forbes and other Aussies closer to home awaits,” says judge Jeni Port. “It’s a welcome addition to the exciting Canberra food and wine scene.”

Brunello is also the winner of the Tony Hitchin Award for Best New Wine List

New kids on the block, icons, beachfront hangs and inner-city hotspots – these are the winning venues from around the country.

2 NSW WINNER

Bennelong, Sydney

If you had to present a restaurant to the world as a symbol of Australia, Bennelong (bennelong.com.au) would make a strong case: its postcard location, those magnificent Opera House sails, Peter Gilmore and Rob Cockerill’s plated treasures from earth and sea – and then the wines. Predominantly Australian, the curation here is a rhapsody to our growers and producers. “Castagna, Cullen, Metala. And the showcase of Hunter Valley producers makes it a must-visit,” says Port. “So much thought and attention to supporting quality makers.”

Bennelong is also the winner of Best City Restaurant Wine List

3 QLD WINNER

Bella Venezia Restaurant + Bar, Mooloolaba

Dive into the generous by-the-glass list –50 at least, with several vegan and organic surprises among them – at this longstanding establishment (bellavenezia. com.au). This dynamic compilation changes regularly, as the team sources new bottles at auction, so it’s worth returning. The new- versus old-world wine flights are a clever way to start your exploration and they’re designed to work beautifully with the kitchen’s heritage Italian menu.

4 VIC WINNER

Cutler & Co., Fitzroy

Confidence is what stands out on every page of Cutler & Co.’s extraordinary wine list (cutlerandco.com.au), where selections are based on true merit, not trends. “Winelovers go here to enjoy and indulge but also to learn about what they should be drinking,” says judge Toni Paterson. They also head to this refined diner to surrender to the generosity of Andrew McConnell’s splendid Euro-style feasts, particularly the famous Sunday lunches (see his story on Pantelleria, Sicily, on page 92).

5 SA WINNER

Fishbank, Adelaide

“This is a joyous wine list and a great credit to sommelier Henry Bampton, who’s obviously had a lot of fun drawing together his favourite South Australian wines along with the best of the rest of Australia and across the vinous globe,” says judge Peter Bourne. And just because Fishbank (fishbankadl.com.au) is a seafood restaurant, don’t expect wall-to-wall white wine; Bampton wants you to get into some rich red with your fish if you’re up for the challenge. An adventurous, sometimes kooky list that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

6

TAS WINNER

Fico, Hobart

Tasmania by way of Europe is the grand idea behind this small, heartfelt restaurant in Hobart’s CBD (ficofico.net) and the menu and wine list work together harmoniously to tell this story. Sommelier Ben Devereux’s extensive offering is described by judge Bourne as “wonderfully idiosyncratic”, grouped by weight and texture with a focus on the Apple Isle and Europe. The close attention given to food matching is plain to see on the page, particularly with the tasting menu pairings. “Devereux knows both his wine and his food.”

Shorehouse, Swanbourne

“The best of the west,” says judge Port of the selection at this breezy beachside diner (shorehouse.com.au) but that’s only the start. Sure, there are the chardonnays and cabernets you’d expect in WA but the lesser-known local rieslings, pinot noirs and chenin blancs are worth exploring, too. Then it goes even further west to sparklings from Austria and Germany and a huge trove of Italian, Spanish and French reds and whites.

Shorehouse is also the winner of Best Sparkling Wine List

7

WA WINNER

Best Wine Lists by State or Territory

FIRST CLASS

Sake, saisons, spirits and plenty of surprises await at these winners.

Best Club Restaurant Wine List

Chu by China Doll at West HQ Rooty Hill, NSW

A small but bright list that stands up next to the power punch of Chu’s flavourful South-East Asian menu and opulent décor (churestaurant.com.au). “There are so many thrilling and appealing selections,” says judge Jeni Port. “This list was obviously curated with food in mind.”

Best Country Restaurant Wine List

Settlers Tavern Margaret River, Western Australia

“Settlers Tavern (settlerstavern.com) will change every expectation you have about country pubs,” says judge Andrew Graham. “Come for the comfort food of steak and chips and a live band and stay for the eye-popping beverage selection that starts at Margaret River and passionately traverses the planet.”

Best Hotel Restaurant Wine List

Altitude at Shangri-La Sydney, NSW

How does a wine list compete with Australia’s most spectacular view? By staying true to the classics: mostly Australian benchmark winemakers who have earned their stripes. The champagne list at Altitude (shangrila sydney.com.au) is also excellent and there are some “appealing older wines”, says judge Ken Gargett, “especially among the reds”.

Best Pub Restaurant Wine List

Lamaro’s Hotel South Melbourne, Victoria

Châteauneuf-du-Pape by the glass in a pub? Yes, please. That’s just one of the options on offer at this affable community hub (lamaroshotel.com.au),

Best by Venue Type

Chu by China Doll at West HQ, Rooty Hill, NSW (top); Ten Minutes By Tractor, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria (above)

which, along with a great wine and beer list, also does a cracking feed – order the red duck curry.

Best Wine List (50 Wines)

Congress

Collingwood, Victoria

Dearly loved Melbourne institution Congress (congresswine.com.au) poured the last of its youthful, playful, eclectic wines several months after the passing of co-owner Katie McCormack in early 2022. “The comfort one got from this small list was sublime in an overcomplicated world,” says judge Toni Paterson. McCormack’s twin brother, Michael, plans to open another venture but Congress will always hold a piece of our heart.

Best Wine List (100 Wines)

Firedoor Surry Hills, NSW

Chef Lennox Hastie’s food-and-fire show gets most of the attention at Firedoor (firedoor.com.au) but the wine list deserves its own applause, with strong showings from around Australia and Europe, including special attention to Hastie’s beloved Spain. Helpful groupings around structure, complexity, juiciness and body guide the palate.

Best Wine List (200 Wines)

China Doll

Woolloomooloo, NSW

“Expect wine perfectly in tune with Asian cuisine,” says judge Port of this eatery (chinadoll.com.au). “Whites are crisp and clean with an emphasis on the aromatic, citrus-based and nonwooded. Reds are similarly light, fresh and fruit-forward. There’s plenty to seek out and enjoy.”

Best List of Wines By The Glass

Ten Minutes By Tractor Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

“One hundred and eleven wines by the glass? Remarkable,” is judge Mike Bennie’s assessment of this winery restaurant (tenminutesbytractor.com. au). “It’s a collection that will blow away the wine nerd while being simpatico to those exploring the Mornington Peninsula’s best vinous assets. It’s one of the great wine experiences in Australia.”

Best Non-Alcoholic List

Bistro Sociale Bowral, NSW

How very modern to cater for the non-drinkers or sober-curious as much as the wine imbibers. At Bistro Sociale (bistrosociale.com.au) you’ll find non-alcoholic wines from McGuigan, Almost Zero and Altina, as well as mocktails made with as much finesse and care as their boozed-up brethren.

Best Aperitif List

De Vine Food and Wine Sydney, NSW

“The aperitivo and vermouth are rippers,” says judge Jane Faulkner of the extraordinary selection – Australian, Italian, Swiss, Mexican and more –at this refined Italian CBD restaurant (devinefoodandwine.com.au), which also has a lovingly curated amaro list longer than a piece of tagliatelle.

Best Digestif List

Charred Kitchen & Bar Orange, NSW

“Few venues in the country appear more proud of their locality and more in tune with their community than Charred,” says judge Peter Forrestal of this popular destination diner (charred.com.au). Stay a while after

dessert; its enormous selection of whiskies and thoughtful exploration of tequilas, brandies and liqueurs deserve a little lingering.

Best Sake List

Tsunami Izakaya & Teppanyaki Bar Perth, Western Australia

The love and reverence for sake here (tsunamisushi.com.au) is apparent –junmai, genshu, ginjo, koshu, nigori, with almost all being handmade by boutique brewers. And the Tsunami team transports it all directly from Japan in specialised, temperaturecontrolled containers. A sake paradise.

Best Beer List

Cookie Melbourne, Victoria

This local favourite (cookiemelbourne. com.au) has a huge range of beers from across the globe and plenty that’s creative from the world of sours, wild ales, saisons, goses and even nonalcoholic. And all of it, says judge Peter Bourne, is “admirably suited to the Thai cuisine” served at this energetic inner-city restaurant.

Best Food and Wine Matching List

The Restaurant Pendolino Sydney, NSW

“The Italian-inspired cuisine at Pendolino (pendolino.com.au) is complemented by a mix of fresh, vibrant styles and complex wines with age from Australia and Italy,” says judge Paterson. “The pairings on the dégustation are original – and some slightly left-of-centre – giving it an element of thrill without being overly attention-seeking. It’s a joyous, celebratory experience.”

When Sarah Atkinson moved to Perth from Canada in 2009 to work in various hospitality venues with her now-husband, Liam, she felt that she needed to play catch up in her new home when it came to wine knowledge. So she began stacking up the wine qualifications – WSET 3 and CMS – then started working at the Lalla Rookh Wine Store, where things began to get interesting. “They had so many of those benchmark French wines,” she says. “That really gave me exposure to the good stuff.”

But Atkinson soon discovered that the thing drawing her to the vinous world went beyond what was inside the bottle. It’s about the taste, of course, but it’s also the people, the agriculture and the cycle of the vine that the sommelier considers when it comes to curating her wine list today. She tries to stick to smaller

Sommeliers’

Every year, sommeliers around the country are asked to nominate the wine list they consider to be the best. This year, they were split: Le Rebelle in Perth and Sydney’s Where’s Nick. We talked to the winning minds behind both.

Sarah Atkinson Sommelier at Le Rebelle, Mount Lawley, Perth

Sarah Atkinson (above, left); Bridget Raffal

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Wine List of the Year Awards special

producers, often people she knows. “We have so many good people making wine in this country and I like to share the love.” That French connection hasn’t been forgotten either – Atkinson keeps a strong Gallic component on the list to complement the “French-ish” bistro food served at Le Rebelle (lerebelle.com.au).

And if she had to pick one wine to take with her to the proverbial desert island? “Well, would it be a tropical island?” she asks. “That makes a difference. I think it would be a beautiful bottle of Mosel kabinett riesling.”

Bridget Raffal

Sommelier at Where’s Nick, Marrickville, Sydney

Bridget Raffal’s first wine memories are of “playing grown-ups” while living in Amsterdam as an 18-year-old, buying $3 bottles of montepulciano from the supermarket for dinner parties. Today, as the beverage director of and partner at Where’s Nick wine bar (wheresnick.com.au) in Sydney’s Inner West and former sommelier at three-hatted Sixpenny, it’s safe to say her taste in wine has improved a fair bit, though that urge to share wine with others in a convivial setting hasn’t changed. “Back then I don’t think we would have been talking about that montepulciano or realising its aromas or flavours. Now there’s more conversation – maybe about the nuances of orange wine, for example, why this one is soft and pretty, while this one has more electric fruit. But that love of engaging with people via wine and food is still the same.”

In 2021, that desire for meaningful engagement around wine led Raffal to reach out to fellow female wine professionals who felt they were being locked out of an industry that’s so often dominated by men. The result was the formation of Women and Revolution, a network that helps get more women in front of distributors and invited to industry events. It now has more than 300 members, who meet regularly to chat, discuss challenges and triumphs and, naturally, share a bottle. And the concept works. “The level of support we get from the industry is great and it’s tangible. It’s a direct way to fix problems. People have really responded.”

Best of the rest

Best Listing of Australian Wines Altitude and Bennelong Sydney, NSW

Best Listing of ACT Wines Brunello Canberra, ACT

Best Listing of a Region’s Wines and Best Listing of Tasmanian Wines Stillwater

Launceston, Tasmania

Best Listing of NSW Wines Charred Kitchen & Bar Orange, NSW

She’s done it again, this Art Deco beauty by the beach (above; illido. com.au), nabbing consecutive wins in the Australia’s Choice category for its clever mix of classic and cult wines. Regionality is key here, both in the glass and on the plate: dive deep into Umbria with a floral grechetto and perhaps a plate of grilled anchovies or explore the Aosta Valley with a white moscato that’s best enjoyed with a castagna and fontina gnocchi. Italy’s gastronomy in a sand-and-sun setting? It’d be difficult to think of a more charming blend of Italian and Australian living.

Best Listing of SA Wines The Salopian Inn

McLaren Vale, South Australia

Best Listing of Victorian Wines Pt. Leo Estate

Merricks, Victoria

Best Listing of WA Wines Mojo’s Kitchen

Bunbury, Western Australia

Sommeliers’ Choice

Australia’s Choice – as voted by you

Il Lido Cottesloe, Western Australia

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A modern Japanese masterpiece

Taste is just one element of the complete sensory experience at Saké. A seat at the sushi counter allows you to eyeball the action as a team of chefs transforms Australia’s most sought-after seafood into delicate bites in a finely choreographed routine. Just metres away, strips of Wagyu release beads of fat that hit the open coals with a hiss and release a smoky aroma from the open kitchen.

Founded in a heritage sandstone building in The Rocks in 2009, Saké was a new kind of Japanese dining experience and critics took note, immediately awarding it a chef’s hat in the Australian Good Food Guide. The restaurant has expanded, adding two venues in Sydney (Saké Manly Wharf and Saké Double Bay) and Saké Hamer Hall, Melbourne.

Overseeing it all is Saké Brand Culinary Chef Shimpei Hatanaka, a second-generation sushi chef born in Japan and raised in Australia. After learning to cook alongside his father, Hatanaka honed his craft at Nobu Atlantis and Kyoto’s Ritz-Carlton hotel, where he specialised in the Japanese fine-dining style of kaiseki

Now the innovative young chef is drawing on his dual heritage to flex his creative side, devising a sophisticated menu that honours Japanese tradition but is unafraid to experiment.

The Saké philosophy centres on ultrapremium, sustainably sourced ingredients. “A lot of Japanese restaurants source ingredients from overseas but we like to focus on using Australian produce so we can get it at its absolute freshest,” says Hatanaka. “The best Japanese food has very delicate flavours so it’s all about letting the produce speak for itself.”

Presented by

Hunter St. Hospitality

At this fine-diner, chef Shimpei Hatanaka is creating innovative Japanese dishes with Australian produce, from flavourful southern bluefin tuna to rich Tasmanian Wagyu.

Left: Toro sashimi, chargrilled jalapeño, shallot, shaved truffle and dashi soy

It’s why the Saké menu features a dazzling mix of this country’s most exceptional ingredients, including southern bluefin tuna from South Australia’s Spencer Gulf, full-blood Wagyu from Robbins Island in Tasmania, exquisite long-spine sea urchins mostly from Tasmania and sometimes from Victoria and rich, earthy truffles from Canberra.

Hatanaka takes particular pride in his seafood and the sushi and sashimi dishes of finely marbled tuna, salmon belly, snapper and scampi are always made to order. With a palate attuned to fine seasonal variations in flavour, he has even created a house blend of soy sauce enriched with dried bonito flakes, kombu and mirin to balance out the extra fattiness of the fish in winter. It’s this kind of attention to detail that makes Saké one of the country’s most memorable dining experiences.

Where there’s smoke…

One of Hatanaka’s latest innovations is the new robata section for grilling meat and vegetables over binchotan charcoal. “Because this technique involves cooking over high heat, using smoke rather than flames, you can infuse ingredients with incredible flavour.” When the soy and miso-glazed skewers are almost ready to serve, he runs a little hay straw over the grill to infuse the juicy king brown mushrooms, thinly sliced ribbons of Wagyu and butterflied king prawns with a second layer of smokiness.

The king of fish

Even in a sashimi menu featuring the finest local seafood, one ingredient stands out. “In Japan, bluefin tuna is known as ‘the king of fish’,” explains Hatanaka, who flies in sustainably farmed tuna from Port Lincoln every week. The tuna has a higher fat content in winter, which is the best time to savour this delicacy. Throughout October, Saké will be featuring its most premium product with specialty cuts, including lean, deep-red akami and the highly prized belly meat known as

otoro. “This is the fattiest part of the tuna; it’s similar to the highest Wagyu marble score of 9+ so it has this incredible texture and just melts in your mouth.”

Book your visit to a Saké restaurant today sakerestaurant.com.au

Left: Chef Shimpei Hatanaka. Below: Bluefin tuna tataki

Kristoffer Paulsen

top chefs reveal the places where they love to eat

Sliced beef and sausage noodle soup at Pho Hung Vuong Saigon in Melbourne’s Footscray

Di Stasio Pizzeria in Melbourne’s Carlton

KYLIE KWONG Lucky Kwong, Eveleigh, NSW

“The name Paski Vineria Popolare (paski.com.au)

– ‘a small wine bar and restaurant for the people’ – says it all and Giorgio de Maria, Enrico Tomelleri and Mattia Dicati’s buzzing, eccentric, detail- and produce-driven little gem in Darlinghurst, Sydney, is just that. It has a cosy, casual vibe and rustic fit-out, an extensive and idiosyncratic wine selection based on rich relationships with some of Italy’s most talented natural winemakers, and a delicious menu of handmade pastas, house charcuterie and seafood dishes. Paski oozes Italian warmth, generosity, conviviality and passion.”

PETER GILMORE Quay and Bennelong, Sydney, NSW

“My current favourite is Ante Bar (ante.bar) in Sydney’s Newtown. It’s a new space with cool Tokyo vibes and a great sake list. My favourite dish is the fermented shiitake pasta – major umami.”

ANTHONY SCHIFILLITI Sixpenny, Stanmore, NSW

“The food at Newtown’s Cafe Paci (cafepaci.com.au) in Sydney, is tasty, innovative and fun – with service to match. There are not many restaurants that are suitable for every occasion but this

place is an exception. Whether I’m on a date with my partner or with a group of hospo friends, I always have a great time. Also, there’s cool bar seating if you just want to go for snacks and drinks.”

OSKAR ROSSI Fico, Hobart, Tasmania

“The best meal I’ve had recently was in Sydney at Cafe Paci . I love the eclectic mix of cultures and inspiration in the menu. I’d go back for the ox tongue taco, duck torta salata or the carrot sorbet with licorice and yoghurt but everything on the menu is great, the service is excellent and the vibe is fun.”

JOSH NILAND Saint Peter, Paddington, NSW

“What’s so special about Lucky Kwong (luckykwong.com.au) and what has always been so special about the food Kylie

Kwong and her team cooks is that it’s truly unique and a mirror of where we are in the world. The food is outstanding and the level of hospitality is exceedingly special. I always order fried eggs with Lucky Kwong chilli sauce and the wonderfully comforting and nourishing yellowfin tuna pancakes. It’s an absolute favourite of mine, my wife, Julie, and our kids.”

ALEX WONG Lana, Sydney, NSW

“A long Sunday lunch at Ormeggio at The Spit (ormeggio.com.au) in Mosman on Sydney’s lower North Shore is unbeatable when you want a slice of Italy. The use of premium Australian seafood sets the cuisine apart and when you combine that with outstanding service and an idyllic waterfront location, you really do feel like you’re dining at a Mediterranean beachside osteria. I try to get

JOEL BICKFORD Shell House, Sydney, NSW

“It’s hard to go past Ester (esterrestaurant.com.au) in Sydney’s Chippendale: it’s creative, relaxed and special. But, above all, it’s home to some of the tastiest food in the country. My go-to dishes are the potato bread, dry-aged pork rump and steamed hapuka – my dish of the year so far, for its stunning simplicity. Desserts also shine – I tried all four on my last visit.”

there a few times a year and every time I return it feels like a new experience as the chefs are constantly innovating but one of their classics – squid ink tagliolini with handpicked Queensland spanner crab – is always top of my list. If you’re there with a group, I recommend ordering all the housemade gelatos – they’re theatrical and thoroughly impressive.”

ORAZIO D’ELIA

Da Orazio, Bondi, NSW

“I love going to Lucio Pizzeria (luciopizzeria.com.au) in Sydney’s Darlinghurst and Zetland. Lucio [De Falco] is a long-time friend of mine from my hometown in Italy. Every time I taste his pizza it reminds me of home. The pizza fritta is the best; I always order it.”

DAN PEPPERELL Pellegrino 2000 and Bistrot 916, Surry Hills and Potts Point, NSW

“My favourite dining experience is sitting outside in the courtyard of Di Stasio Pizzeria (distasio.com.au) in Melbourne’s Carlton, surrounded by the sound of the Italian stone fountain running and the crunching of gravel as the waiters walk between the tables. Ice-cold Martinis, melanzane fritte, the best spaghetti vongole with cracked black pepper and margherita pizza served with a side of fresh basil leaves and a little silver swan filled with chilli oil... It’s a secret paradise piazza.”

BRENT SAVAGE Bentley Group, Sydney, NSW

“My favourite local eatery is Barzaari (barzaari.com.au) in Sydney’s Marrickville. The chef, Darryl Martin, is a great

Cocktails and oysters, handmade pasta and a world-class $14 pho. When they’re not on the pans, here’s where Australia’s top chefs like to pull up a seat.

cook. He has his own unique approach to Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern food. Everything is made in-house, the meats are woodfired or cooked over charcoal and the vegetarian offerings are fantastic, too. It’s a familyrun restaurant and you can feel it in the generosity of their hospitality.”

PAUL FARAG Aalia, Sydney, NSW

“When it comes to drinks, I love anything by Sydney’s Bentley Group (thebentley. com.au) for wines, as sommelier Nick Hildebrandt has some of the most

interesting and unique bottles available. As for cocktails, Tio’s (tios.com.au) in Surry Hills holds a special place in my heart. Jeremy [Blackmore], Alex [Dowd] and their team make some of the best Margaritas and provide a fun and approachable atmosphere.”

O TAMA CAREY Lankan Filling Station, Darlinghurst, NSW

“ Ester has been at the forefront of the Sydney dining scene for years now, with dishes and flavours that feel both new yet classic at the same time. The food is

deeply satisfying, the flavours delicate yet complex, plated in simple yet pretty ways. The oysters with horseradish emulsion are cooked in the wood fire until they just pop open – they’re a little warm, plump and perfect.”

YEN TRINH AND BEN DEVLIN Pipit, Pottsville, NSW

“In Brunswick Heads, northern NSW, Honour (honourbrunswickheads.com) is a small bistro and wine bar run by a husband and wife team, chef Anna [Mortimer] and sommelier Aymeric [Albores]. Order the

lemon-roasted spatchcock with almond sauce if you can; they’re also expanding their housemade retail side so stock up for home with tasty terrines and more.

“At Robina on the Gold Coast, Eddy + Wolff (eddyandwolff.com.au) has modern Vietnamese and Asian eats with great cocktails and an epic R’n’B soundtrack. Run by Vien and Thao [Nguyen], it’s the kind of place that feels like it should be in a big city laneway but is a great hidden gem in a suburban location. The banh xeo is super crisp and authentic and possibly the best we’ve had in any restaurant for a long time.”

JUSTIN JAMES

Restaurant Botanic, Adelaide, SA

“In May I had the privilege to eat and stay at Brae (braerestaurant.com) in Birregurra, Victoria, and the experience was on point – from the drive there to walking through the front door of the restaurant to leaving my accommodation the next day. The whole idea of it is inspiring: growing as much as you can, creating a total hospitality experience that lasts 18 hours. The food comes out beautifully plated and is absolutely delicious – you can taste the garden throughout the experience. Service is personal, swift and deft. I opted for a hybrid pairing and the non-alcoholic drinks were fantastic and went so well with the food. As for the room, I felt at home. They had my favourite record by The Strokes so I played that over a bottle of wine and snacks. Warm croissants were delivered in the morning before I hit the road back to Adelaide.”

TIM HARDY

Van Bone, Bream Creek, Tas

“My all-time favourite restaurant is Dan Hunter’s Brae . The excellence, hospitality and integrity that goes into every detail makes this humble farmhouse a truly magical dining experience. It’s an inspired place.”

NINO ZOCCALI

The Restaurant Pendolino, Sydney, NSW

“Half of my Italian family actually live in France so while we’re in Italy a lot, we’ve also spent quite a lot of time in France and I just love it there. Provincial French cooking is one of my favourites and when done well, I think it delivers the kind of satiation that few cuisines can. For classic French bistro food, Bistrot 916 (bistrot916.com) in Sydney’s Potts Point is as good as anywhere I’ve eaten in France; the guys are doing such a great job.”

KHANH NGUYEN Sunda and Aru, Melbourne, Vic

“My favourite place to eat now has been my favourite for a number of years: LuMi Dining (lumidining.com) in Pyrmont, Sydney. Chef and owner Federico Zanellato is a true inspiration; his cuisine – Italian with a strong influence of Japanese sensibilities, techniques and flavours – is a marriage I’ve always loved. My favourite has to be the snacks course, which is usually six to eight different bite-size dishes, all unique and inspiring in their own way. Top of the list is the gunkan – traditionally sushi rice wrapped in nori with a topping. Federico uses Italian stracciatella and tops it with sea urchin when in season. It’s genius.”

ANDREW McCONNELL

Trader House group, Melbourne, Vic

“There’s something special about travelling to the countryside for lunch, particularly a wine region. Tedesca Osteria (tedesca. com.au) in Red Hill, Victoria, ticks so many boxes; delicious

food, a great wine list and beautiful design. The menu is hyper-seasonal and always delivers what’s growing in the garden or what’s available from the local growers and fishermen. I love the set menu, which is Italianleaning and well-balanced. There’s usually a pasta dish, which is always perfect, and Brigitte’s [Hafner] desserts are a highlight.”

DAN HUNTER Brae, Birregurra, Vic

“I’ve had one meal at La Cachette (cachette.com.au), about an hour away in Geelong, since it opened and I’m really looking forward to getting back soon. It’s a family

business, doing something honest and with intent; a simple neo-bistro but in no way basic. The kitchen’s focus on flavour and product, along with the generous hospitality, made a real impression on me.”

HUGH ALLEN Vue de Monde, Melbourne, Vic

“If I look at my hometown, Melbourne, I have a couple of must-visit places. First, Aru (aru.net.au) is a really cool little restaurant cooking Australian-meets-South-EastAsian food; the chef Khanh Nguyen is über-talented and the dishes are flavour bombs. O.My (omyrestaurant.com.au),

GUS CADDEN Osteria Renata, Prahran, Vic

“My favourite place is The Hardware Club (thehardwareclub.com). The chef is creative and the food is delicious.

My go-to order would be bone marrow on toast, followed by avocado ‘in saor’. The ravioli is one of my favourite pasta courses in Melbourne and I indulge when the amaro cart comes around at the end of the night.”

NEIL PERRYDoubleMargaret, Bay, NSW

“Flower Drum (flowerdrum.melbourne)in Melbourne is my favourite restaurant inthe country. I eat the same thing everytime – Neil Perry’s mud crab noodles.Years ago, I told them I felt like mudcrab so they made it up with ginger andshallot and fine noodles. I talk about itso much that now people order it, eventhough it’s not on the menu.”

out in Beaconsfield, is run by two brothers who grow most of the food themselves and it offers everything: amazing food, wine and service.”

SHANNON MARTINEZ Smith & Daughters, Collingwood, Vic

“My quest for the best yum cha in Victoria has taken me everywhere. But my all-time favourite would have to be Secret Kitchen (secret-kitchen.com.au) in Doncaster. It may seem like an odd place to go, as it’s on the top floor of a Westfield shopping centre, but I can assure you – as can the large families that frequent the restaurant – this place is legit. You’ll have to book in advance on the weekends when it’s at its peak but you can generally sneak your way in on a weekday. The usual suspects are on the carts but they’re done better than almost anywhere else. Take a closer look and you’ll find some extra-special items that you won’t find at most other yum cha restaurants – braised hotpots and fresh, hot silken tofu. It’s too hard to choose a favourite so get a group together and order everything.”

VICTOR LIONG Lee Ho Fook, Melbourne, Vic

“ Flower Drum is a very important restaurant in Australia’s dining scene; it’s refined, traditional and authentic – in the sense of delivering excellent Cantonese cuisine and staying true to its food philosophy – and it has been operating at the highest standard for almost 50 years. The Lui family’s service team, wine offering and cooking style show Australians that Chinese food is one of the great cuisines of the world.

76

I bring friends from overseas, celebrate there with family and often go to learn and experience its magic. I’d like it to be around for my children to enjoy – it’s a very special place.”

JESSI SINGH Daughter in Law, Melbourne, Vic

“My current favourite restaurant in the world is Ciao, Mate! (ciaomate.com.au) in Bangalow, NSW. This beautiful little Italian joint makes one of the best sourdough pizzas and chef Matt Stone personally sources local ingredients. He is so committed to supporting local farmers, local markets and native ingredients –particularly after the recent floods and lockdowns when these small operators need so much help to survive. Whenever I go I feel like I’m somewhere in Napoli; it’s a very cosy space and I sit at the bar to watch the action. Matt does daily special pasta or small plates but my all-time favourite is the margherita pizza. There’s also amazing Italian wine, like the beautiful natural orange wine Radikon Sivi from Oslavia.”

BRIGITTE HAFNER

Osteria Tedesca, Red Hill, Vic

“The Tedesca team had the pleasure of dining at Chauncy (chauncy.com.au) last summer. We loved the generous hospitality and care, from the dining room to the wine list and menu. Chauncy is a beautiful country restaurant in Heathcote, Victoria, set in a historic building brought back to life in a sensitive and stylish way in partnership with Jasper Hill winery. The whole experience feels personal and special and the set menu is based on local produce

GUY GROSSI Grossi Florentino, Melbourne, Vic

“I love France-Soir (france-soir.com.au) in Melbourne’s South Yarra. It’s classic, tasty, straightforward and never changes. My absolute must is the steak tartare. There’s nothing untraditional in it –it’s exactly as a classic French tartare should be but it’s executed perfectly and consistently every time. I don’t think I’ve ever visited without ordering it.”

CLINTON McIVERAmaru and Auterra WineBar, Armadale, Vic

“I love the food at Melbourne’s OsteriaIlaria (osteriailaria.com) and I generallyjust let them choose the dishes for me.The menu changes quite regularly so it’s always good to go back. The winelist is excellent, there are always a fewspecial gems and it’s suitablefor all budgets.”

carefully sourced and prepared with some serious classic French cooking chops. The wine list has all the local stars and benchmarks from far and wide. Overall, we couldn’t fault a thing that Tess [Murray] and Louis [Naepels] have achieved and I can’t wait for another visit.”

DANIEL JARRETT

The Tamarind, Maleny, Queensland

“For chefs, finding time to dine out can be a challenge so when we do have a gap, family comes first. I prefer to support local chefs who have amazing attention to detail and source the freshest local produce – to the point of meeting the fishers at the wharf to hand-select the catch for that night’s menu or taking to the rod and reel themselves. Giles Hohnen, chef/owner of Sumi Open Kitchen (sumiopenkitchen. com.au), a humble place down an unassuming arcade in Noosa Junction, is pedantic about fresh ingredients –some from his own garden – and authentic Japanese technique that you can only learn from living and working in Japan for many years. There’s a four- or six-course ‘trust the chef’ set menu that can change daily and if you love sake, there are pairing options. A favourite from past visits is pork jowl with nori-roasted carrot, carrot and ginger purée, nashi pear and roasted sesame. There’s a cracking beverage list – for me, it’s the Yebisu black beer or McHenry Hohnen cabernet.”

ADAM WOLFERS

Gerard’s Bistro, Fortitude Valley, Qld

“ Exhibition Restaurant (exhibitionrestaurant.com) is a new place by local chef

Pâté en croûte with flavours of banh mi at Aru, Melbourne

Tim Scott. It’s located underground in the heritage-listed Metro Arts building in Brisbane’s CBD. Tim’s focus is cooking fresh produce on charcoal to create punchy yet delicate flavours and he sources produce from Queensland’s best biodynamic and sustainable farms. It’s a 24-seater and you have the option to sit in the dining room or at the kitchen bar, where you can observe the chefs in poetic motion, preparing and plating the food. I love the set menus and having the chefs deliver the dishes to your table with a detailed explanation. It’s a unique and exciting experience.”

SARAH BALDWIN Joy, Brisbane, Qld

“I walk to Petrichor & Co (petrichorandco.com) in Brisbane’s Hamilton on the mornings I have off and sit at the sunny tables out the front with my dogs. The two owners know me and my dogs by name and like to tease me about always ordering the same thing! The service is friendly, warm and exactly how service in our industry should be: naturally hospitable. The food has a Colombian influence, which is so nice and different at breakfast time.”

MARTIN BOUCHIER Phat Mango, Darwin, NT

“There are hundreds of places I like to eat at but my latest favourite is Arkhé (arkhe.com.au) in Adelaide. A fellow chef recommended the eatery, run by Jake Kellie, and it didn’t disappoint. Beautiful produce, cooked on coals, awesomely presented with a smile by the busy front-of-house staff. It’s everything I try and do

Anthony Hart

Chauncy in Heathcote, Victoria

Osteria Ilaria, Melbourne

Eddy + Wolff in Robina, Queensland

MAURICE TERZINI Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Bondi Beach, NSW

“Café Di Stasio (distasio.com.au) in Melbourne’s St Kilda, for the spaghetti saltati with a glass of Di Stasio pinot noir. Ronnie’s [Di Stasio] decadent ragù has cured some of my worst hangovers!”

CLARE FALZONHentley Seppeltsfield,Farm,SA

“The place I get most excited to dine at is Muni (2/3 High Street; 08 7516 5958)in Willunga, SA. Every dish deliversbeautiful and surprising flavours, with a Taiwanese influence from the two chefs.It’s my favourite place right now to havelunch solo with a book and a glassof wine. They’re doing somethingquite special and exciting.”

at my place in the Top End and exactly what I love about great restaurants.”

MICHAEL D’ADAMO Wildflower, Perth, WA

“I’d love to get over to Melbourne and Sydney and go on a little food safari as it’s been about five years since I’ve visited. I’d be superexcited to eat at Oncore by Clare Smyth (crownsydney. com.au) in Sydney right now. I never got the opportunity to eat Clare’s food while living in London when she opened Core but I’m a fan of her style and approach.

“At home, Mummucc’ (mummucc.com.au) in Wembley is my favourite place to eat. The no-fuss approach, bold flavours and delicious food are brought together so well by Matt McDonald, whether it’s something grilled on a skewer or a pasta dish. This is a classic casual spot with lots of locals, including myself, able to enjoy a good glass of wine and a few snacks.”

MELISSA PALINKAS Young George and Ethos Deli + Dining Room, East Fremantle, WA

“My favourite place to eat in Perth would be a little, unassuming Vietnamese diner in Northbridge with plastic chairs and tables called Tra Vinh (149 Brisbane Street; 08 9228 2788). The food is so fresh and authentic; at lunchtime the place is always full. Across the road, Vincent (vincentwine.com.au) is a casual wine bar and bistro serving French-inspired food, like the amazing charcuterie board of jambon persillé, pâté en croûte, duck liver parfait and a pork rillettes that is honestly the best in Perth – besides my own, of course.”

MASSIMO MELE Peppina, Hobart, Tas

“One of the constant rotations on my Instagram is Nomad (nomad.melbourne) in Melbourne and Sydney’s Surry Hills. I just love Jacqui’s [Challinor] food and her style of cooking. The care and effort taken and the great produce is really present in this restaurant, from making their own charcuterie to the woodfired flatbreads and delicious meats cooked over the fire – it all gets me very excited. I’m especially keen to try the truffle and ham hock hash brown.”

MATTHEW EVANS

Fat Pig Farm, Huon Valley, Tas

“In Sydney, it’s Sean’s (seansbondi.com) in Bondi In Tassie, it’s Masaaki’s Sushi (masaaki.com.au) in Geeveston. But if I could eat anywhere tonight, I’d dearly love to go to Ethos Deli + Dining Room (ethosdeli.com.au) in East Fremantle, WA. Rarely does a restaurant’s fundamental morality – its ethos, if you like – come through in such a way that it speaks to my gluttony and my palate but also to my sense of right and wrong; to my soul. Melissa Palinkas’s bistro satisfies my hunger for ethical sourcing and no waste, as well as offering flavour in spades. It could be in the housemade smallgoods or Palinkas’s Hungarian heritage snuck into crab pierogi. That it operates until late in the evening from Thursday to Saturday is a bonus.”

RODNEY DUNN The Agrarian Kitchen, New Norfolk, Tas

“Whenever I find myself in Hobart, the place I visit more

Nomad, Sydney

JACQUI CHALLINOR Nomad, Sydney, NSW, and Melbourne, Vic

“My favourite restaurant at the moment is Gimlet (gimlet.melbourne) – I can’t go to Melbourne and not visit. You walk into that dining room and you can’t help but be wowed. The service is always on point, it’s professional with just that right level of familiarity, and they serve some of the best non-alcoholic drinks in town. Grab yourself a seat at the bar and order the tartare, which is prepared tableside. You won’t be sorry.”

HELLY RAICHURA Enter Via Laundry, Carlton North, Vic

“On my day off, I love to head down to Cavendish House for drinks and a meal at Gimlet . It’s a place that transports you back in time. The hospitality is flawless, the décor is luxurious and the atmosphere is celebratory. My favourite has always been the Hazelnut Old Fashioned, which comes on and off the menu depending on the season. I really enjoy sitting under those beautiful chandeliers on soft velvet seats, with a glass of wine or a cocktail and a delicious meal.”

ALEKSIS KALNINS Matilda 159 Domain, South Yarra, Vic

“My favourite place is Gimlet . What I find special about it is the late-night suppers on Friday and Saturday so I can go after service. Most Saturday nights I celebrate the end of the week with a cocktail, six oysters, some charcuterie and a plate of cheese.”

ALEX GHADDAB Osteria Renata, Prahran, Vic

“No matter the time, day, week or month, I would never say no to a visit to Gimlet . To see the transformation of the site into the grand dining room it is today is a sight to behold. The food, beverage and hospitality offerings are outstanding and like everyone says, yes, it does feel like a Manhattan staple. I absolutely cannot go past a Martini or two, oysters, gnocco fritto and the T-bone. Stunning.”

Jo McGann

BEN SHEWRY Attica, Ripponlea, Vic

“Pho wasn’t something I grew up with in New Zealand but in Melbourne (and obviously Vietnam) it’s an essential dish and one that I feel the city takes ownership of in a passionate way.

“My children have grown up eating it weekly. Now, it’s very cool to hear my teenagers talk about meeting up with friends over a bowl of pho. Here we aren’t in short supply of good places to eat pho and in case we didn’t realise how lucky we are in Melbourne, I recall taking a pair of high-profile food friends to a pho shop in Springvale years ago, to which they exclaimed, ‘If this was in San Francisco, it would be the best bowl of noodle soup in town.’ That was just a bowl of walk-in pho from a shop I knew nothing about – a spur-of-the-moment

pho, if you like. What that says is that this dish, pretty much no matter where you have it in Melbourne, is delicious, generous and nourishing. And we have Vietnamese immigrants to be grateful to and thankful for.

“My favourite bowl is the sliced beef and sausage noodle soup at Pho Hung Vuong Saigon (128 Hopkins Street, Footscray; 03 9689 6002). This is where I take out-of-town visiting chefs and food-lovers. It’s the finest $14 to $17 you could spend on food in Melbourne. The broth is beautifully clean and clear with a deep beef flavour; the noodles are perfectly cooked; the garnishes are on point. But the spellbinder here is the thickly cut beef sausage, redolent with whole black peppercorns and of immense flavour. As a chef I appreciate the skill of the chefs here and the quality never varies. It’s the stuff of pho dreams.”

than any other is Tom McHugo’s (87 Macquarie Street; 03 6231 4916). It’s a pub but so much more – these guys walk the talk when it comes to local ingredients. I love the menu section that begins with the line, ‘Vegetables (not always vegetarian)’. It’s generally a what’s-what of in-season vegetables from local farmers smartly paired with complementary flavours; think broccoli with curry butter or grilled wombok with leek sauce and pickled garlic buds. These delights sit neatly alongside the prerequisite chicken schnitty and steak, which are always good. Wash all this down with an exciting list of local beers and natty wines – little surprise that it’s such a hospo hangout.”

KOBI RUZICKA Dier Makr, Hobart, Tas

“About two hours out of Hobart, The Waterloo (waterlooswansea.com) in Swansea gets my vote. It’s run by a young couple, who took over an old motel restaurant that was closed for years and stuck in a décor time warp. Settle in for crumbed and fried oysters and have a pint of Tassie tap beer or dig through the cellar to find some stunning hand-picked natural wines that you’ll genuinely only find in the best restaurants in the country. Zac [Green] and Alex [Sumner] took an enormous risk and we should all be very thankful they did.”

CRAIG WILL Stillwater, Launceston, Tas

“My favourite place to go is Timbre (timbrekitchen.com) at Velo Wines, 15 minutes north of Launceston in the Tamar Valley. Matt Adams has created a restaurant

The heart of it all

Embark on an epic journey to one of the most delicious destinations in New Zealand.

Queenstown’s Lake Whakatipu has a deeply arresting beauty. Formed by ancient glaciers and protected by the Remarkables, Cecil Peak and Mount Earnslaw, the lake’s gently shimmering surface and crystalline waters reflect the surrounding snow-crowned summits.

One of the most memorable ways to experience the tranquillity of the lake is aboard the TSS Earnslaw with RealNZ, stopping at the

unique dining location of Walter Peak. The oldest carrying steamship in the Southern Hemisphere – it’s celebrating its 110th birthday this month –was once in service to the communities of Lake Whakatipu. These days, its kauri timber decks offer visitors a vantage point from which to explore the glacial-cut lake, with Queenstown’s dramatic mountains as its backdrop, on a 90-minute return voyage.

An on-shore excursion to Walter Peak High Country Farm reveals a vast station that was settled in the 1860s. Today, the farm welcomes guests to its lakeside gardens and historic Colonel’s Homestead, built in 1902, for a feast cooked over fire, courtesy of head chef Mauro Battaglia.

His food pays homage to the homestead and its legacy of high-country agriculture. “We take excellent care of the area and it’s about cooking well and fresh.” Guests can enjoy a gourmet selection of locally sourced meat – the flame-licked marinated lamb is a perpetual crowd favourite – and seafood cooked on a wood-fired barbecue. “Farms in New Zealand have this primordial style of cooking over fire so reflecting that makes sense.”

Walter Peak’s gourmet buffet is the high point of a cruise that’s all about absorbing the jaw-dropping magnificence of this pristine natural environment.

Celebrate TSS Earnslaw ’s 110th birthday by booking a visit with RealNZ.com

Presented by RealNZ

with a focus on a circular economy of gathering local produce and creating a seasonal menu around it. Interesting ferments, infusions, smoke and woodfire ensure a tasty and different menu each time and a solid wine list and friendly staff make it a great place to spend a day.”

JEREMY KODE Geronimo, Launceston, Tas

“I love Havilah (havilahwine. com.au) in Launceston for an after-work drink. A great collection of local, natural and international wines alongside a frequently changing menu means there is always something new on offer. My picks are the soft cheeses and cured meats, paired with a glass of 2021 Havilah cabernet franc – it’s fruit-forward, full of spice and a dark earth character you get from the cool climate of Tasmania’s Coal River Valley. Co-owner and manager Ricky [Evans] has been a rising star on the wine scene and since the inception of his Two Tonne Tasmania wine label in 2013, he has solidified his spot.”

LOUIS COUTTOUPES

Onzieme, Kingston, ACT

“The last amazing meal I had was at Bar la Salut (barlasalut.com) in Sydney’s Redfern. It’s Catalonianinfluenced, unpretentious, crowded and laid-back but feels exciting. The menu is exactly the way I like to eat – small bites, share plates, really interesting bits and pieces. My favourites were the octopus à la plancha, the paper-thin jamón, the grilled tongue with red pepper asadillo and the sardines with smoked olive oil and pickled garlic. Above all, make sure you get extra

BEN MILBOURNE Peacock and Jones, Hobart, Tas

“Whenever I’m not required in the kitchen, I try to visit Sonny (sonny.com.au), a bar/eatery on the edge of Hobart’s CBD. Owner and head chef Matt Breen is an awesome local talent and every time I dine there I always leave invigorated by the menu, the local produce, the wine list and the atmosphere.”

SCOTT HUGGINS

Magill Estate Restaurant, Adelaide, SA

“ NNQ (Nghi Ngân Quán; nnq.com.au) is an authentic Vietnamese eatery in the western suburbs of Adelaide and there’s something so special about seeing three generations of family working together. They do beautiful handmade noodles, there is a great depth in the broth and a good amount of offal. My go-to order is the combination beef pho – it’s consistent every time.”

bread so you can mop up all the oils and juices – it would probably be bad manners to lick the plate like I wanted to. The wine list is bold and adventurous but has delicate touches. Start your meal with a superbly floral Saison vermouth on the rocks then snack your way through everything. Before you know it, it’ll be midnight and you’ll be fed and happy and can roll home before you turn into a pumpkin.”

SHIRLEY SUMMAKWAN Moonhouse, Balaclava, Vic

“I really enjoy a bowl of beef noodle soup from Master Lanzhou Noodle Bar (masterlanzhou.com.au) in Melbourne – tasty broth, chewy noodles and generous amounts of meat and herbs.”

SCOTT PICKETT

Scott Pickett Group, Melbourne, Vic

“I love a meal at Benyue Kitchen (benyuekitchen. com.au) in Melbourne’s Aberfeldie. The head chef from a now-closed old favourite of mine, Lau’s Family Kitchen in St Kilda, opened it with three of his kitchen team. I can’t go past

some of those Lau’s classics, like fluffy crab omelette and scallop siu mai, along with the standout soy poussin.”

GEORGINA DENT

Estelle, Northcote, Vic

“My favourite restaurant in Melbourne is Carlton Wine Room (thecarltonwineroom. com.au). The menu is simple and tasty, there’s a great selection of wines, friendly service and a good choice of space, whether you want a more casual setting downstairs or something a bit cosier upstairs. The scallop tostada with spring onion and yuzu kosho is an absolute must as a snack, as is the anchovy with fried bread, ricotta and pickled cucumber. And you can’t miss the stracciatella with pickled mushroom and chive oil served with a generous amount of potato focaccia.”

VICTOR BLAIN

Smith St Bistrot, Collingwood, Vic

“My wife and I love FranceSoir (france-soir.com.au) in South Yarra as it reminds us of our trips to France. After a big week, nothing is better than a rib-eye, frites and béarnaise with a beautiful burgundy.”

NICK BROWN

All Saints Estate, Wahgunyah, Vic

“As a winemaker, I’m going for wine bar Thousand Pound (thousandpound.com.au) in the main street of Rutherglen. Nestled among buildings from the gold rush era, stepping inside feels like you’ve been transported to a slick inner-city bar. What makes it special is the beautiful food, great wine list and buzzing atmosphere. I order the porterhouse grilled over charcoal, paired with one of Rutherglen’s ‘new age’ soft red wines.”

JAMES KINGSTON Willing Bros, North Hobart, Tas

“My go-to place is Osteria Vista (osteriavista.com.au) at Stefano Lubiana Wines in Granton. It’s an authentic, relaxed setting, with rustic food, plenty of which is sourced from the garden.

I love being able to kick back and not have to make too many decisions. I’ll begin with vintage sparkling then riesling or estate chardy with the starters then estate pinot noir with mains. If I’m not driving, a bottle of Sasso pinot noir is impossible to go past. Perfetto, grazie mille!”

Bringing you closer to nature

Refresh your perspective, with real people, real places, and real experiences.

Kea in Piopiotahi Milford Sound

From a village in Greenland with a population of just 53 to a little-known European capital, these are the most surprising cities where restaurants have been awarded Michelin stars.

By Pilar Mitchell

Suzan Gabrijan

Chef Jorg Zupan at his one-starred restaurant, Atelje, in Ljubljana, Slovenia

When a restaurant receives a Michelin star, a strange thing happens. It’s a privilege, of course, but the best way for an eatery to keep creating the magic that earned it the star is to forget that it has one. “We try not to let it affect us,” says Poul Andrias Ziska, head chef at Greenland’s KOKS. “We’re honoured but it doesn’t take up a lot of thought day to day.”

The stakes haven’t always been so high. Back in 1900, the Michelin tyre company’s first guide promoted driving by including maps and a list of restaurants along popular routes in France. Today its inspectors visit restaurants in 39 destinations. Receiving one or more coveted stars can rocket the restaurant and its chef to fame. But chefs can’t receive stars themselves – the award is

about the team, which is fine by Jorg Zupan, head chef at Atelje in Ljubljana, Slovenia. “Without them I couldn’t do anything; the team gives fruition to our ideas. And I’m especially proud of them because we’re the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Ljubljana.”

It’s expensive to produce the world’s most celebrated food so Michelin-starred restaurants usually aren’t low-cost. The guide’s Bib Gourmand award for the best-value dishes addresses this and its Green Star is given to restaurants dedicated to sustainability.

And while Tokyo, with its 203 starred venues, and Paris, with its 118, may have the most in the world, restaurants such as Atelje and KOKS have worked hard to earn their places in the Michelin universe.

Seal blood tartlet with blue mussel and seaweed (above) from KOKS restaurant at Ilimanaq in Greenland (right)

ILIMANAQ, GREENLAND

On a lonely point on the west coast of Greenland sits Ilimanaq, a village with 53 residents. From June to September, visitors fly in from the capital Nuuk to Ilulissat Airport and cross the UNESCO-protected Kangia Icefjord by boat to visit the town for its other-worldly beauty and to eat at KOKS, the most remote Michelin-starred restaurant in the world.

From far away to far, far away…

This past northern summer, KOKS (koks.fo), which translates as “flirt” in Faroese, relocated to Ilimanaq from its original home in a 280-year-old farmhouse on the Faroe Islands, a Danish archipelago between Norway and Iceland. For the next two seasons KOKS will be in the tiny village while its new Faroe Islands home is built.

Okay but lots of places are remote. Not like KOKS. Ilimanaq is a UNESCO World Heritage site south of the Ilulissat Icefjord. Although people live in the village year round, KOKS is only accessible in the summer (travel is risky in winter). So the drawcard is the scenery? That and chef Poul Andrias Ziska’s artistry. A proponent of the New Nordic Cuisine movement,

which promotes seasonal Nordic produce, he makes the most of what seems like very little: foraged seaweed, moss, lichen and a bounty of seafood. What’s on the menu? The 17-course menu includes a finedining take on mattak, the delicate Inuit dish of bowhead whale skin and blubber from Greenland’s annual community whale hunt quota, as well as

ptarmigan (a gamey wild fowl) with blackcurrant salsa, plus musk ox, reindeer and foraged produce. “In the Faroe Islands, 90 per cent of the menu came from the ocean but in Greenland we’re cooking a lot more game,” says Ziska. “That said, there’s lots of wonderful seafood that we couldn’t get in the Faroe Islands – Greenlandic halibut and some beautiful shrimp.”

Simon Bajada

NARA, JAPAN

Located less than an hour south of Kyoto by train, this city is enchanting.

What’s so special about Nara? The Seven Great Temples for one thing, each housing ancient relics, including an 8th-century painting of female deity Kichijōten and the Yakushi Triad sculpture. All this sightseeing is making me hungry. Great! Nara is famous for kakinoha-zushi, a fermented sushi of salmon, red snapper or mackerel wrapped in persimmon leaves, a natural preservative. If fish isn’t your thing, snack on chewy kuzu mochi cakes dipped in dark

molasses or slurp fine somen noodles in broth made from the soft water of Mount Miwa. Don’t forget the sake, which many say was originally made in Nara’s temples. None of the by-products from a sacred temple can be wasted so the sake lees (sediment) is used to make narazuke pickles. Plenty of good food must mean lots of Michelin stars. Nara’s 22 starred restaurants have nothing on Tokyo’s 203 but it’s the five restaurants awarded a Green Star that make it so special. What’s a Green Star, again? It’s awarded for sustainability: locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, waste-reduction

practices and a minimal environmental footprint. Give me a sample of these sustainability champions.

Chugokusai Naramachi Kuko (913-2 Kideracho; +81 74 630 8306) harvests produce from its organic farm for its SichuanCantonese menu that includes house-fermented tofu and yamato yasai (native vegetables).

At Kiyosuminosato AWA (861 Takahicho; +81 74 250 1o55), preserving centuries-old local vegetables earned the eatery a Green Star. On its 360-squaremetre plot, 19 certified varieties of yamato vegetables are grown, such as fushimi sweet pepper and Japanese mountain yam.

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

Brazil may be the only South American country listed in the guide but its secondlargest city, Rio de Janeiro, holds its own with a pair of two-starred and a trio of one-starred restaurants.

Are they just Brazilian food? No, Rio’s starred restaurants celebrate international cuisines. At one-starred pan-Asian eatery Mee inside the Copacabana Palace hotel (belmond.com), there’s nigiri of bluefin tuna, red snapper and Kobe A5 beef, dim sum bulgogi and pho with fillet mignon. In the same hotel is Cipriani, a one-starred Italian fine-diner, where you’ll find pizza fritta of Wagyu carpaccio and ravioli with game meat and goat’s cheese. The dining room has a front-row view of the swimming pool but to see chef Nello Cassese’s team in action, book the chef’s table.

Who’s cooking local fare?

Two-starred Oro (ororestaurante. com.br) fuses Brazilian food with cutting-edge gastronomy. Oysters come with Caipirinha sorbet and pork crackling, while abará, a snack of mashed beans steamed in a banana leaf, accompanies sea urchin. Cashew nut praliné finishes off the pão de queijo (cheese bread).

Mee restaurant in Rio de Janeiro

If the official mascot of Chengdu, Sichuan’s capital city, is the giant panda, its unofficial mascot should be the Sichuan peppercorn, that ubiquitous mouth-numbing dried berry from the prickly ash tree. It’s the tingling base of familiar dishes: hot pot, kung pao chicken, mapo tofu and dan dan noodles.

What’s the deal with the peppercorn? Chengdu chefs are proud of it and almost all the Michelin-starred restaurants in the city serve Sichuan food. Who are the stars? Eight eateries have one Michelin star and the legendary Yu Zhi Lan (1/24 Changfa Street; +86 28 6249 1966) has two. A favourite of the late Anthony Bourdain, its menu elevates local classics to haute cuisine. Golden thread noodles made from dough moistened with duck egg yolk come in a delicate broth. Rice porridge with lotus seeds and lily petals is formed into cakes, fried and served with la rou,

an aromatic, air-cured meat. Steamed Iberian pork neck is cooked with soy sauce and bean curd alongside housemade fermented glutinous rice. Any love for vegetarians? One-starred Mi Xun Teahouse in The Temple House hotel (thehousecollective.com) focuses on Chinese teas and vegetarian fare inspired by the food once served at the nearby 1000-yearold Daci Temple. Fried wild Yunnan mushrooms are teamed with black dry beans and Sichuan seasoning. A hot pot of noodles, mushrooms and tofu is cooked in broth at the table and finished with herbs from the garden.

Fang

CHENGDU, CHINA

The courtyard (top) and fried wild mushrooms with black dry beans (above) at the Mi Xun Teahouse in Chengdu

LJUBLJANA,

SLOVENIA

For a country of only 20,000 square kilometres (Australia is almost 7.7 million square kilometres), Slovenia packs a gastronomic punch. In the two years since it joined the Michelin Guide, seven of the Slavic nation’s eateries have earned stars. The capital, Ljubljana, is a city built around a 900-year-old castle; architect Jože Plečnik’s Art Nouveau buildings and bridges define the city’s aesthetic, while farmer-run stalls at food markets give its residents access to fresh local produce.

How’s the local fare? With its direct connection to foraged and farm produce – apples, mushrooms, wild strawberries, cabbage and turnips, honey from Carniolan bees and salt harvested from Adriatic pans –Slovenia was doing locavorism long before it was fashionable. Tell me about the dining scene. Ljubljana is one of the smallest capitals in Europe and Atelje (restavracijaatelje.com) is its only Michelin-starred restaurant. The youngest chef in the country to have helmed a starred venue, Jorg Zupan’s unpretentious creativity is mostly unhampered by the pressures of being in the guide. “It’s an honour but everyone who has a star, deep down inside, is a bit worried about losing it,” he says. “It’s as much a recognition as it is a little bit of a burden. Before, we did our thing and we didn’t know the inspectors were present. But now that we have a star, we have to keep it.”

That shouldn’t be a problem... Not with 80 per cent of the produce used in Atelje’s kitchen grown in the garden. Dishes such as Adriatic shrimp with hermelika (a local herb), green strawberries and smoked buttermilk, cabbage with spring onions, mushrooms, XO sauce and lacto-fermented cabbage sauce or stingray with salad greens and vin jaune sauce prove Zupan and his team are on the cutting edge. “We try not to follow any rules. We do a lot of fermenting, pickling and experimentation.”

The garden, sourdough bread and butter and the dining room at Atelje restaurant in Ljubljana

Ours is an ancient land. A continent that is powerful, interconnected, life-giving and ever-changing.

It is a land crisscrossed by grand songlines, with an incredible history and a boundless future. There’s a place where you can take your time to hear these stories; to listen to the land.

There you’ll discover the most wonderful tales of power, connection, life and change.

And when you do, you can’t help but be left in awe.

GREAT SOUTHERN LAND GALLERY

The Italian idyll of Pantelleria is something of a contradiction. Closer to Tunisia than Sicily, it offers couscous and octopus alongside pesto and pasta. Its cultural medley is just one of the reasons Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell is so drawn to it.

Photography by Jo McGann

Stay in the village of Scauri, high above the Mediterranean (left); the region is known for agriculture, including olives (above)

Sitting in an ancient terraced garden, watching the sunset on the water, I feel like I’m at the very edge of the earth. After a week in Pantelleria, a little-known volcanic island south-west of Sicily, I’ve realised that this place can take you further than just an escape; it’s somewhere you can disappear into.

It’s also an incredible destination for anyone who loves (or lives) to eat. While we all know the pleasures of pasta alla Norma, lasagne or cacio e pepe, the food on this remote, ruggedly beautiful isle (also known as “daughter of the wind” and closer to Tunisia than Sicily) is unique and so delicious it creates a sense of place unlike anything I’ve experienced on the Italian mainland.

Wild capers grow everywhere – along the roadside, seemingly in every crevice – and the vegetables here are among the tastiest I have ever eaten, thanks to the nutrient-rich volcanic soil. An aromatic couscous with just-cooked seafood, vegetables and a rich broth served on the side is the best I’ve had, while the insalata Pantesca of octopus, potato, onion and capers is a daily

(Clockwise from above left) A dammuso (traditional house); locally grown apricots; grotta di Sataria on the western coast

Sampled to perfection

Everyone from Tom Hanks to the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles appear in the world premiere of Soda Jerk’s satirical new feature film, Hello Dankness

If recent world events have had you scratching your head – or burying it in your hands –then Hello Dankness might be the satirical corrective you need right now.

Billed as “a bent suburban musical” by its creators, Soda Jerk (Australian-born siblings Dan and Dominique Angeloro), the 70-minute feature film is composed entirely of samples taken from hundreds of films, TV shows and online memes.

“Hello Dankness is set in an American neighbourhood from 2016 to 2021 and bears witness to the psychotropic song and dance of the last two US election cycles and the collapse of politics into images and reality into spectacle,” say the duo.

Soda Jerk’s painstaking and timeconsuming high-tech approach meant it took four years for them to devise the film, which

sees characters and sequences from one movie or TV show pop up in another thanks to the pair’s cut-and-stitch smarts. Expect surreal appearances from Tom Hanks, Annette Bening, Bernie Sanders, the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Napoleon Dynamite, Macaulay Culkin, Mia and Anna from Pen15 , Wayne and Garth from Wayne’s World, Ice Cube, Corey Feldman – and the Phantom of the Opera as Vladimir Putin.

“We’re interested in the lurch towards hyper-reality in these post-internet times and, in particular, the way this has altered the contours of the political spectacle and our relation to each other,” explain the siblings. “How can we be neighbours when the parameters of our realities are no longer shared?”

Emerging as visual artists in Sydney’s queer underground during the early 2000s, Soda Jerk value the political utility of civil disobedience. “This is how we first came to video sampling. We understood it as part of a broader resistance to cultural privatisation. The challenge our practice poses to intellectual property law has always been a driving force for the way we work.”

Left: Soda Jerk. Below: Hello Dankness (2022)

Soda Jerk’s previous film, TERROR NULLIUS (2018), is an Australian revenge fable that features BMX Bandits’ Nicole Kidman gate-crashing Mad Max while Grease ’s Olivia Newton-John looks on in black leather, smoking a cigarette.

Alongside Hello Dankness, which screens daily during this month’s Adelaide Film Festival, you can also catch TERROR NULLIUS and other key works by Soda Jerk in their survey exhibition, Open Sauce. The exhibition opens at Samstag Museum of Art in Adelaide on 18 October and runs until 16 December.

See Hello Dankness at Samstag Museum of Art unisa.edu.au/connect/samstag-museum

Presented by

Samstag Museum of Art

staple. So is pesto Pantesco, a freshly pounded sauce made from whatever’s in season – perhaps almonds, tomato and capers –tossed through pasta.

The diversity in Pantelleria’s food reflects both the island’s natural spoils and the many cultures who’ve called it home over the centuries – Romans, Arabs, Corinthians and Phoenicians among them. It creates a feeling of being on the African coast rather than an Italian island.

But it’s the wine industry that first put Pantelleria on my radar. An architect from Milan, Gabrio Bini, fell in love with the island in the early 1990s. He could see beauty in the severe landscape and began to resurrect a swathe of 80-year-old vines planted on terraces – a kind of traditional viniculture that has since been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.

The wines he produces are complex with a deep sense of terroir. Although there’s no cellar door on the island, Bini’s wines are available at many of the restaurants and my favourite is his Fanino, a blend of the white grape catarratto and red grape pignatello that’s remarkably fresh and pure. Bini chooses to vinify in a traditional method with minimal intervention. He converted his vineyard first to organic and then biodynamic practices and tends the land and vines only by hand and horse. After harvest, grapes are left uninterrupted in clay amphorae buried in the earth. Production is low but the wines are in high demand globally.

Much of the island’s charm is that it remains a place for the more adventurous traveller. What it lacks in the luxury hotels

Luxury villa Dammuso Verdeblu in the Rekale district (top); a typical dammuso rooftop (right)

and beach clubs of the Amalfi coast and other southern Italian destinations, it makes up for in natural beauty, a diverse culture and incredible food.

Getting here is relatively simple. The island’s small airport is located close to the main town of Pantelleria, while a ferry service from Trapani in Sicily runs most days. Scauri, about a 20-minute drive from the airport, has the largest concentration of villas, hotels and restaurants, while other small villages – Khamma, Kattibuale, Karuscia and Bukkuram – are lovely spots to take a dip or have lunch. Little wonder that a host of European celebrities regularly visit, including fashion designer Giorgio Armani, who has owned a bolthole here for many years.

In the summertime, the streets of Pantelleria’s towns are sleepy and quiet during the day. But they come to life in the evening – it seems everyone emerges to watch the sunset, aperitivo in hand. At the edge of the earth, encompassing the beauty of two vibrant cultures, Pantelleria captures me like nowhere else in Italy.

And while you’re there…

More than 80 per cent of Pantelleria is classified as national park, with the majority of the landscape cloaked in low-lying shrubs and an abundance of wildflowers.

Vasche Termali Naturali is an oceanfront thermal attraction in the seaside hamlet of Gadir, where a hot water spring rises from the ocean floor and feeds into a rock pool. The combination of cool seawater mixing with the nutrient-rich heated water as you relax on rocks is a unique experience.

The inland lake Specchio di Venere (Mirror of Venus) is also fed with hot spring water. The water temperature sits at between 40 and 50°C and is rich in minerals such as silica and sodium carbonate. Trattoria da Pina, an outdoor restaurant located alongside the lake, is terrific for a simple lunch while taking in the views.

Cala Levante is a small fishing village on the eastern coast and a great place for lunch or an afternoon swim. A five-minute walk along a path takes you to Arco dell’Elefante, a natural rock formation that resembles, yes, an elephant.

Grotto del Bagno Asciutto is a natural sauna, created by ongoing volcanic activity releasing hot vapour into the cave.

The volcanic inland lake, Mirror of Venus

The food

Most dishes on Pantellerian restaurant menus hark back to the sea: crustacea, sea urchin, langoustine and mussels, with fresh, locally caught whole fish that’s grilled and simply dressed with local golden olive oil. The traditional dessert of bacio di Pantelleria, a featherlight pastry wheel sandwiching fresh ricotta cream, is best enjoyed with a glass of passito – a sweet wine made with the native zibibbo grape.

beautifully and her son and husband run front of house. The food is refined and authentic and respects the classic recipes of the island. I ate fresh anchovies for the first time, salt-cured ever so slightly and served raw with olive oil and a dash of lemon. The restaurant also happens to have one of the best wine lists on the island and includes Tanca Nica’s naturally fermented wine, Terra Forte.

La Nicchia

Il Principe e il Pirata

This delightful family-run restaurant (ilprincipeeilpirata.it) is located on the island’s eastern coast at Punta Karace. Chef Franca Raffaele cooks

Run by Gianni Busetta and Grazia Cucci, this wonderful Scauri restaurant (lanicchia.it) is the perfect place to catch the sunset and take aperitivo. It’s here I had my first taste of tuma persa, a Sicilian cow’s milk cheese, which is served fresh or aged for several months. Dining in the walled courtyard under the ancient orange tree is a must. La Nicchia is also a wine bar and food store so you can drop in for a drink and

take some pantry staples – such as bags of capers – home.

Themà Restaurant and Lounge

Located in the most sophisticated accommodation on the island, the Sikelia hotel (sikeliapantelleria.it), owned and run by former basketball player Giulia Pazienza Gelmetti, this fine-diner serves a range of Sicilian dishes that are subtly influenced by North Africa, including roast octopus. Enjoy the sunset under the palm trees.

Ristorante Bar La Vela

On the beach in Scauri, where the local fishermen bring their boats in, this simple and informal restaurant offers fresh seafood and a relaxed, friendly vibe. Opt for a selection of delicacies from the ocean –including sea urchin, prawns and fish – and the best spaghetti vongole on the island. The wine list features great local producers at affordable prices.

FCO Qantas flies direct from Perth to Rome between June and October and year-round from Melbourne, Sydney and Perth to London, with connecting flights on partner airlines to Rome. qantas.com

The Scauri area boasts the Valle di Monastero (top) and La Nicchia restaurant (above)

Rewrite the bucket list

Pontoons in the middle of the ocean, private island picnics and stargazing with NASA. This is Fiji but not as you know it…

Visit Seventh Heaven

The aptly named Seventh Heaven (seventhheavenfiji.com) features a two-level pontoon that rises like a mirage from the turquoise sea. Moored in the ocean a short boat ride from Port Denarau in the stunning Mamanuca chain, it’s an aquatic day club designed for snacking, sipping and dipping, with the help of Piña Coladas (served in a coconut shell, naturally), an international menu of woodfired pizzas, burgers and roti wraps, and sun lounges. Grab a kayak or some snorkelling gear and explore the nearby coral reef or take the Leap of Faith: a five-metre dive

from the top-floor jumping platform into the impossibly clear water.

Get shipwrecked in style

Fiji reaches peak romance with a champagne breakfast for two on a deserted island. An exclusive offering of the luxurious adultsonly Likuliku Lagoon Resort (hotel.qantas. com.au/likulikulagoonresort), the castaway experience begins with a 15-minute speedboat ride to jewel-like Mociu Island, where the dreamiest of day beds is covered by a thatchroofed sunshade. A short hike will take you to the topmost point to enjoy the Fijian sunrise

while your breakfast is set up on the beach. Then the staff depart, leaving you with a walkie-talkie but otherwise alone to laze around or explore the waters, which are part of a protected nature reserve encircled by a fringing coral reef.

Relax with rays

Swimming with giant manta rays in the remote Yasawa Islands is an unforgettable wildlife encounter. The gentle giants glide through a shallow channel between Naviti and Drawaqa islands to feed on plankton most days between May and October. Taking to the water with

Seventh Heaven

Presented by Tourism Fiji

a snorkel will make you feel part of the manta ray’s dance as they search for food lurking in the technicoloured coral. This incredible experience is a part of any stay at Mantaray Island Resort (hotel.qantas.com.au/ mantarayislandresort), while tour operator Awesome Adventures Fiji (awesomefiji.com) will arrange transfers to the passage from many Yasawa resorts.

Take to the high seas

A day-long excursion onboard the recently launched 78-foot luxury catamaran Sabre (southseasailingfiji.com) comes complete with free-flowing Mimosas and a ukulelestrumming crew with a fondness for bursting into song. Whisking you across pristine Fijian waters to the Mamanuca Islands, around an hour and 45 minutes sailing from Port

Denarau, the Sabre then goes under sail to explore the celebrated region at leisure. Grab a paddleboard for an over-water adventure or snorkel the tropical reefs beneath (a slide from the deck ensures getting into the water is a thrill). The day’s activities also feature a buffet lunch, including barbecued local fish, and the chance to lounge on a gorgeously deserted sand cay.

Wish upon a star

Nanuku Resort Fiji (hotel.qantas.com.au/ nanukuresort) has a stellar reputation for memorable experiences and the launch of Journey to the Stars at the end of October only adds to that. The week-long stargazing program takes advantage of the South Pacific’s dazzlingly clear night skies with the help of NASA experts, who will lead you on a guided viewing of deep space and the moon with their high-tech telescopes and solarscopes. You’ll have your head in the stars and your toes in the sand.

Start planning your holiday to Fiji today at fiji.travel

Clockwise from above: Seventh Heaven; Sabre; a private island picnic at Likuliku Lagoon Resort

A reborn Italian classic, a local twist on an age-old spirit and a fish once used for fertiliser… Alexandra Carlton reveals the top new trends to challenge our dining and drinking habits.

CIRCULAR QUAY’S TOURIST TRAP TRANSFORMATION

It’s got all the right ingredients: a central location, views of the world’s most beautiful harbour and great public transport. But unless they’re heading to a performance at the Opera House or dining at the glorious Quay, Bennelong or Aria, Sydneysiders tend to leave the picturesque ferry stop of Circular Quay to the tourists.

So what’s changed? A host of new openings are filling the gap between the precinct’s high-end special-occasion restaurants and its forgettable food vendors. Consider Quay Quarter (quayquarter sydney.com.au), a new development encompassing a converted woolstore, known as Hinchcliff House, and a bunch of revitalised laneways with eateries like Besuto (omakase), Humble Bakery (famous for its finger buns) and Mexican bar/cantina Londres 126. Inside Hinchcliff House (hinchcliffhouse.com) you’ll find fine-diner Lana and subterranean cocktail bar Apollonia. Then there’s waterside alfresco French restaurant Whalebridge (whalebridge. com.au), where you can order a killer French onion dip with fougasse or a steaming pot of moules marinière as you eyeball the most iconic view in the city. There are even plans to turn the Cahill Expressway into an elevated walkway, similar to New York’s High Line.

Restaurateur Justin Newton from Hinchcliff House has noticed that a lot of his clientele – many of whom work in legal or finance – seem to be drifting into the area from Sydney’s traditional CBD around Martin Place. “I’m no soothsayer but I feel like the central business district might be relocated soon,” he predicts. Could be time to snap up that quayside real estate before word gets out.

Lana restaurant at Hinchcliff House

Pasta is Australia’s unofficial national dish (up there with meat pies and pad Thai) but our preferences seem to go through phases: we’ve been obsessed with cacio e pepe, there was the great penne alla vodka wave of a few years back and the proliferation of tricked-up spins on mac and cheese. All of those dishes are still around – delicious never dies – but a familiar favourite seems to be twirling its way back onto forks: good old fettuccine carbonara.

It’s believed the dish was invented in Rome sometime around the middle of the 20th century, possibly something to do with American soldiers trying to shoehorn a bacon and egg breakfast into a pasta. It was everywhere in the 1980s – you might remember Meryl Streep famously shared a plate of spaghetti carbonara in bed with Jack Nicholson in 1986’s Heartburn – but then seemed to step out of the spotlight, perhaps because quantity overcame quality (no, it should not contain cream and if you cook it too hot and scramble the egg, it’s all over).

Recently, chefs have been reinstating this most comforting of carb dishes on menus all over Australia: you’ll find one rich with guanciale at Fugazzi (fugazzi.com.au) in Adelaide, while Guy Grossi’s classic at Garum (garum.com.au) in Perth – yolky and silky as all good carbonaras should be – is doing a brisker business than ever before.

“People are looking for comfort, flavour and things that make them feel good. That’s where the strength of these classic dishes lie,” says Grossi. “There’s nothing like going to a beautiful trattoria in Rome and ordering a perfect fettuccine carbonara. You’re at the source. There’s a romance to it. People have been starved of that for so long, it’s no wonder we’re seeing a resurgence.”

Pass the pecorino, prego.

COMFORTING CARBONARA IS BACK

Garum restaurant in Perth

SOJU AND SHOCHU ARE THE NEW VODKA

Spirits need lifting? Meet the new breed of Australian-made Korean and Japanese clear liquors: soju and shochu, respectively.

Known rather racily as Korean firewater, soju is a distilled liquor made from rice, grain or sweet potato, sometimes with added flavourings. Siblings and second-gen Korean Australians David, Monica and Michael Park substituted the conventional base products for grapes sourced from the Barossa Valley when they created Gyopo Soju (gyoposoju.com.au), the first Australianmade soju, in 2020. “A lot of modern sojus have sweeteners added,” says David. “We don’t have to do that with ours because the grapes give it sweetness.”

Gyopo Soju is now in select restaurants around Sydney, as well as some liquor retailers. It might look like vodka but it’s usually drunk neat with meals, shared with other diners as a convivial round of shots from one bottle. And the firewater sears a path through whatever you’re eating. “It’s really great with something like Korean barbecue because it’s a palate-cleanser for fatty meats like pork belly or Wagyu.”

In Victoria, Reed & Co Distillery co-owner Hamish Nugent has been developing and refining an Australian version of Japanese shochu in his Bright distillery (reedandcodistillery.com) for three years. “He’s so passionate that he’ll often get up in the middle of the night to check on his koji [grain inoculated with a shochu-specific koji filamentous mold],” says Melissa Reed, a family member who works in the business.

In late 2021, the company released its first koji-based product – Yuzushu, a barley shochu blended with local yuzu fruit – and it sold out within days. Earlier this year, it chased this with Sudachishu, a rice-based shochu combined with sudachi, a Japanese citrus, which also vanished quicker than it could make it. And there are plans for more koji spirit releases this coming summer.

Is it likely to replace your Martini? It could. Shochu shares vodka’s versatility – you can drink it on the rocks or mix it into a cocktail – but while vodka has a neutral flavour profile, shochu accentuates the taste of its base ingredients. “So although it’s a grain spirit like vodka, the drinking experience is very different,” says Reed. “Different” just might be the palate pick-me-up you’re looking for.

CARP IN THE SOUTH

In theory, putting carp on dinner plates all over Australia should be a no-brainer. It’s an introduced species that found its way into our waterways around the mid-1800s – with a particularly unwelcome presence in the Murray-Darling Basin river system in the south-east – and it tastes pretty good: firm and neutral. Arguably the best way to solve a problem? Eat it.

But in practice, the wily carp has other ideas. Its body is filled with a network of tiny bones that make processing it far trickier than most other “good eating” fish, which is a large part of why you’re not seeing carp pop up on more menus – at least not yet.

The folks at Coorong Wild Seafood (coorongwildseafood. com.au) in Meningie, South Australia, have big plans to tilt the balance toward diners in this ongoing human versus carp showdown. They’ve begun trialling small-batch carp products in restaurants and directly to chefs and so far it’s been met with great acclaim. “I love it. It’s got really versatile flesh and firm fillets,” says Karena Armstrong, owner and chef at the Salopian Inn (salopian.com.au) in McLaren Vale. “We’ve used the mince to make dumplings, san choy bau and larb, diced the fillet to make tartare and simply roasted the fillets with lashings of butter.”

Customers can be a little hesitant, she says, as most have an idea of carp being “muddy” tasting or perhaps more unsettling, as an oversized ornamental goldfish. “But they love it after they’ve had the dish.”

The freshwater troublemaker has also found its way to Sydney, where chef-about-town Mark Best hosted a cooking class featuring carp at the Sydney Seafood School. Best also joined Africola’s Duncan Welgemoed to serve it as a Thai-style larb at the 2022 Tasting Australia festival in South Australia’s Riverland.

But what of that pesky skeleton? It’s the final hurdle, says Tracy Hill from Coorong Wild Seafood. She and her fisherman husband, Glen, hope to invest in a serious deboning machine that’ll make processing the fish easier and selling large quantities a real possibility. “I think the timing is right.”

Love, Canada

Welcome to Canada’s winter of wonders

Let a local show you beyond the iconic white peaks of Whistler. Discover a fairytale hotel made of ice and a city where you can snowshoe into the wild after dinner. If you like an epic white winter, you’ll love Canada’s most magical secrets...

“I like to take the first Peak Chair up Whistler in the morning – the ride is as steep as a roller-coaster and when the last section reveals the volcanic peak called Black Tusk, it’s so dramatic it feels like you’ve been lifted into a movie. For me, these British Columbia mountains are paradise: blue sky, tonnes of powder, perfect runs. Whistler Bowl is my favourite for some of the most challenging and playful lines in Whistler – you get everything from beautiful turns to Volkswagen Beetle-sized bumps to jump over. The snow on the black diamond Shale Slope is so deep that people cheer and tap their poles when they see you drop in.

There are more than 200 marked trails spread across the two mountains of Whistler and Blackcomb so the resort never seems that busy. But if you want to feel like the only person on earth, a heli-skiing tour with Extremely Canadian (extremelycanadian.com) can take you out over 174,000 hectares of big mountain terrain to ski untouched backcountry with a guide. The team at Mabey Ski (mabeyski. com) is the best at creating bespoke adventures that will blow your mind: you can go ice fishing on a frozen lake or even camp overnight in the backcountry. Closer

to Whistler village, the Vallea Lumina light show (vallealumina.com) illuminates the giants of the old-growth forest at night – when snow falls, you’re inside a snow globe.

Things are just as magical off the slopes. At Scandinave Spa (scandinave. com), you can bask in woodfired and Finnish saunas, steam rooms and open-air baths surrounded by woods. I love the no-phones rule: it’s absolute peace. But the energy in the village’s bars and restaurants is also amazing. I like The Raven Room (theravenroom.ca) for a Negroni before dinner at Bearfoot Bistro (bearfootbistro.com). Between courses, taste vodka sub-zero style in the bistro’s Ketel One Ice Room or sabre champagne in the wine cellar. Everyone has to do that at least once.”

“I love standing at thetop of Whistler whenthe sun hits the slopes.”

– Christie Fitzpatrick, local freelance photographer and adventurer

Christie standing above Blackcomb Peak

Christie Fitzpatrick @gnarstie

If you like the magic of Whistlerin winter, you’ll love...

Whitehorse, Yukon Territory to see the brightest Northern Lights

You’re in prime position to see the not-so-elusive-around-here Aurora Borealis in the Yukon. On an adventure with Northern Tales (northerntales.ca), go off the grid at the luxury Northern Lights Resort & Spa, which is 20 minutes beyond the small city of Whitehorse. Spend bright days snowshoeing with guides or sledding through virgin pine forest with happy

huskies. As dusk descends, keep looking up to catch the first threads of green, purple and red pirouetting across the sky. Book a glass-dome chalet to continue watching from your bed.

Local tip: At Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs (eclipsenordichotsprings.ca), a 40-minute drive from the lodge, you can recline in volcanically heated mineral waters, gazing at the lights through rising curls of steam until 11pm.

Canmore, Alberta for dog sledding through epic wilderness

Your senses will expand in southern Alberta’s Bow Valley. As you cut through the snow behind a team of huskies, corridors of towering green forest break open to glaciers coloured blue, cloudy grey and every shade of white. Lakes frozen into solid crystal stretch out to mountains bigger than you can imagine. But the only sound for miles? Joyful yips from the dogs pulling under your reins – and maybe your own heartbeat. On a mushing adventure with Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours (snowyowltours.com), your guide will hand over the steering so you can pretend you’re out here all alone.

Local tip: Stay in cosy mountain style at Paintbox Lodge (paintboxlodge.com) in Canmore. Owners Sara Renner and Thomas Grandi are Olympic skiers and can offer tips on local spots that fit your ski or boarding skills.

Discover great year-round fares to Canada with Qantas and our partner airlines. Book now at qantas.com

Vancouver, British Columbia to snowshoe in the city

Cloaked in white-tipped fir forest, Grouse Mountain rises steeply into the sky, straight out of Vancouver’s northern suburbs. In a 20-minute drive, you can swap the hum of downtown’s theatres and eat streets for the crunch of fresh fallen snow on guided snowshoeing adventures (grousemountain. com) into the wild. The Discovery Snowshoe tour is an easy wander for first-timers but delivers epic views. To lose yourself in the folklore of a silent forest bathed in moonlight, strap on a headlamp for a night-time walk. If you’re up for more adrenaline, slip on the skis for night runs down slopes that seem to glow in the dark.

Local tip: Be early for the night tours. Hop the Skyride gondola to the top of the mountain for a sunset hot chocolate at Altitudes Bistro as Vancouver’s lights spark up below.

Québec City to sleep in an ice palace

At Hôtel de Glace (valcartier.com), the only hotel in North America made entirely of ice, cosy igloo rooms and grand suites with architectural columns and intricate friezes are carved fresh each season (January-March). Watch the light thrown from your crackling fireplace sparkle on the icy ceiling while wrapped tight inside an arctic-approved sleeping bag on your bed.

Local tip: The fairytale hotel is only 20 minutes from the culture capital of Quebec and presides over Canada’s biggest snow playground. Explore the city’s French-speaking cuisine scene and then go skating, tubing or snow rafting with the kids.

The long-table farmers’ lunch – a pranzo di famiglia –is the Italian rural cliché: rustic antipasti and pastas, generous pours of sangiovese, a shaded arbour dripping with purple wisteria. But the best clichés are clichés for a reason; in this case because there are few better ways to immerse yourself in true Italian-ness.

Enter the agriturismo – a concept that first took hold in the 1960s as a way to discourage Italians from abandoning farm life for the city. Instead, farming families could diversify their properties into accommodation and invite guests to stay and enjoy delicious meals.

Today, upscale agriturismo properties can be found all over Italy and the concept has taken hold worldwide – often known simply as a “farm stay”. Good food, local lore and a gorgeous setting? That’s a cliché that will never get old.

By Alexandra Carlton

Let’s get this out of the way up front: the food served at this stone villa, farm and winery run by the Posch family in the hills of Tuscany is entirely made from plants (ipinitoscana.com). But who says you have to be strictly vegan to appreciate a garden gazpacho of cucumber, celery, peach, friggitello pepper and foraged leaves? Or handmade ravioli with zucchini cashew filling and asparagus salsa? Tuscany is Italy’s food bowl so flavour is always at the forefront, even when it’s guided by principle.

This ancient property – it’s been a resting stop for pilgrims travelling to Rome since the 15th century – has 11 elegant guestrooms dressed with hand-sewn linens and terracotta tiles. The Loggia suite is the pick; it has its own sun-splashed terrace with views to the mediaeval spires of San Gimignano.

The saltwater pool is an idyllic spot to enjoy a glass of the farm’s biodynamic sangiovese or homemade kombucha as bees dart among the wildflowers, while the terrace beckons you to roll out a yoga mat. Or you might devote an afternoon to wandering the vineyards and olive groves, breathing in the fresh, fragrant country air.

And (just quietly) if you really can’t make it through your stay without a little animal protein, Florence – and its famous bistecca alla fiorentina – is just an hour’s drive north.

Italy

VEGAN AGRIVILLA I PINI

South Africa

BABYLONSTOREN

“Babylon” is one of those words that gets thrown around liberally – grow a few flowers and fruits and everyone thinks they’ve achieved biodiversity of biblical proportions. But it’s a title that’s warranted at Babylonstoren (babylonstoren.com), on the site of centuries-old vineyards and barns that date back to the late 1600s when the Dutch first settled in the area.

Here in the Cape Winelands of South Africa, all 300-plus varieties of plants in the garden are edible, medicinal or both. You can get lost in a prickly pear maze or help yourself to a handful of mulberries as you tiptoe alongside the natural creeks that border the 3.5-hectare plot. Dotted with lilies and lotus, the stream has trickled down from the Simonsberg Mountains. Dine inside a greenhouse filled with aromatic spices, including nutmeg, turmeric and ginger. The farm also makes its own wine, rooibos and honeybush teas, and olive oil.

Indoors, the Farm Hotel suites and cottages – there are 28 units plus two exclusive-use homes for families – give the beauty of the outdoors a run for their money. The property is owned by Karen Roos, former editor of South Africa’s Elle Decoration, so expect to be wowed at every sconce and skirting. The Farmhouse, for example, which contains nine one-bedroom suites, dates from the 1700s, and Roos has weaved it into a magical Cape Dutch fantasy, with artisan chandeliers and a collection of rare butterflies curated by entomologist Henk Geertsema.

So what to do with your days here, bathed in beauty and bounty? Let it wash over you, says Roos. “We’d like visitors to ground themselves again. To pick their own healthy fruit and veg, play pétanque, swim in the farm dam, eat a simple dish at one of the restaurants, walk up the Babylonstoren hill, await sunset with a glass of wine in hand and then slip between sheets of crisp linen and drift off.”

Pots of candy-red geraniums. Rickety wooden gates and sun-bleached stone. Hazy views over sage-green hills. The aesthetics alone are a Spanish lullaby at this 690-hectare biodynamic farm and horse-breeding centre (ladonaira.com), 90 minutes from Seville in Andalucia, southern Spain. But it’s the way this nine-suite property invites you to plunge into the natural surroundings that makes a stay here even more beautiful than it appears.

You might join garden whisperer Gigi Bodner on a tour of the finca’s medicinal and food gardens, collecting homegrown peanuts, cumquats or edible nasturtiums. Or peep at the property’s busy colony of bees before sampling their natural honey at breakfast alongside eggs from the resident chickens.

After breakfast, find out why Virgil called Lusitano horses – the oldest breed of saddle horse in the world – “sons of the wind”, with a guided trail ride on a proud steed from La Donaira’s breeding farm. Then retreat to your individually designed suite – some of which feature large copper or timber baths, exposed rafters and whitewashed walls – and let that Spanish lullaby soothe you to sleep in one of the sumptuous canopied beds.

ESTANCIA LOS POTREROS

When you’re one of the 12 guests at this 2400-hectare working estancia – the name for the wide, grassed farms on the pampas of central Argentina – near Córdoba, you’re encouraged to take to the saddle (estancialospotreros.com).

Maybe you’ll assist in a round-up of the foals to keep them safe from stalking puma or help the gauchos corral cattle. A spot of polo might be more your speed, with experts on hand to help you learn your hooks from your chukkas.

There’s still plenty to do if you’d rather feel the earth beneath your feet. Argentina is the land of the asado barbecue that celebrates the country’s renowned beef – provided here by a herd of Aberdeen Angus – and there are few greater pleasures than spending a starry night with a glass of malbec in hand and the property’s friendly sheepdog, Neeps, asleep at your feet.

Australia BURNSIDE ORGANIC FARM

When you first arrive at Jamie and Lara McCall’s 15-hectare organic and biodynamic farm and vineyard in Western Australia’s Margaret River (burnsideorganicfarm.com.au), you’re greeted with a list of things to do. Help yourself to anything in the garden. Got little kids? The chooks always appreciate visitors throwing them a handful of silverbeet. Up early? Lara loves company as she heads out for the day to feed the pigs and oversee anything else that needs doing around the farm. And she’s just a text message away when you’re ready for a tasting of the property’s homegrown capers or biodynamic wines.

The idea of opening the farm – which runs cattle, pigs and sheep, as well as

commercial crops of capers, avocados and other veggies – is twofold. “We simply want people to have the best time,” says Lara, who loves the idea of guests pottering around and seeing the way a working farm operates. But she also hopes the experience inspires people to grow a bit of their own food at home. “Obviously most people don’t have a farm but we can encourage them to start a small garden. We like people to see that it’s actually not that hard to grow a bit of lettuce and, yes, you could do it at your place.”

What you probably can’t replicate is the country hospitality of the McCall’s four guest suites, each with a full kitchen, deep soaking tub and open fire. “You can spend the day exploring the Margaret River wineries then head back here and settle into your own cosy space. It has everything you want when you go away.”

Italy BAGLIO OCCHIPINTI

“Baglio” means “farm” in old Sicilian dialect but this charming 12-room property in Sicily’s south, which dates back to the 1860s, is much more than that (bagliocchipinti.com). The building itself is actually an old winemaking house, meticulously restored and exquisitely decorated by landscape architect Fausta Occhipinti and her family. What they’ve created isn’t so much a farm as an invitation to join their family, even if only for a few days. While Fausta is there to greet you on arrival, glass of wine in hand, her sister, Arianna, oversees the vineyards and you’ll rarely find her without a pair of secateurs. Rosaura and Bruno are Mama and Papa – their love of this property and its guests shines in their smiles, while Uncle Giusto will happily answer your questions about Sicilian wine. The best way to get to know them all is by taking a two-hour cooking class, where Fausta and the Baglio Occhipinti chefs will guide you through the creation of fresh pasta, scacce ragusane (traditional Sicilian buns), arancini and cannoli – all made with ingredients from the farm’s vegetable gardens, fruit trees and olive groves. All that’s left is to sit down at a long-table lunch with fellow guests and ask the Occhipintis if they’ll let you stay forever.

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Take to the water for your perfect combination of luxury and adventure.

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Rolling in the deep

Cruising the Aegean for 10 nights is as much about island-hopping and meeting the locals as it is enjoying the on-board experience, writes Ben Mack.

Oia village on Santorini in Greece

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Scenic Culinaire on board cooking school

The stinging waves crash on the deck, thrashing the little boat. Several passengers grip their seats. The waves are tossing the ferry about like a toy in a washing machine. I certainly didn’t expect this.

The water is calmer by the time we reach Delos, off the coast of the Greek island of Mykonos, about 30 minutes later. I’m on a shore excursion during day two of my Greek Myths & Summer Mirth cruise that began in Athens and ends in Rome, aboard the Regent Seven Seas Explorer (rssc.com). Wandering this tiny isle in the Aegean, spending much of the time patting the cats that live among

the ancient ruins, I almost forget our rocky journey over on the small ferry. And that becomes a theme. “The thing about the Greek islands is you forget everything,” says my driver, Maria Chastoupi, as he takes me to board the Explorer for the first time, at the port of Piraeus near Athens, on a warm summer afternoon.

I reflect on Chastoupi’s words often on the trip. At first, I find it hard to believe. How could anyone forget Mykonos, with its windmills and waves, or Santorini and its whitewashed buildings hugging the sheer cliffs of a caldera? But then I realise he might be onto something,

like Homer in The Odyssey, when he described an island of Lotus Eaters, who are struck by amnesia after consuming the magical plant.

First, it slips my mind that I have an evening spa treatment scheduled as we’re about to depart Athens. (I finally have the hot stones massage 48 hours later.)

I have so much fun exploring Delos –despite the ferry ride across the rolling seas suggesting that Poseidon is in a foul mood – that I also forget I’m booked for a local-led tour of Mykonos that afternoon. I even forget to meet the ship’s social hostess, Cherisse Martinelli – a performer

The Turkish town of Kuşadası on the Aegean Sea

from Seattle who was drawn by the chance to see the world and the “unique experience of working somewhere that’s a luxury floating hotel, theatre, restaurant and transportation” – in one of the many lounges aboard. She is kindly trying to help me track down general manager Evan Willemse, who before joining the cruise industry once served as a footman at a Silver Jubilee event in London that Queen Elizabeth II attended.

“Cruising is a fantastic way to make new friends,” Willemse tells me when we finally meet, as I tuck into avocado and crab under the crystal chandeliers of Compass Rose, a fine-dining restaurant on Deck 4. “You already have three things in common: you share a passion for cruising or adventure, probably have a similar background and you’re open to the world.”

Indeed, I remember as much – if not more – about my fellow passengers than I do the places we visit. This is helped by the larger-than-life personalities many of the other guests possess.

While exploring Kuşadası and the fruit-tree-filled villages of Caferli and Kirazli on Turkey’s west coast on day three of the trip, I meet Keith Loh and Johan Grundlingh from Singapore. They are the most stylish people aboard (the shoes Keith wears one evening for drinks literally sparkle) and natural-born storytellers so getting together and hearing about their adventures on this voyage and others becomes a daily highlight.

If Keith and Johan are easy to remember, it’s impossible to forget Caroline and David. The British couple are on their second cruise. They loved the first (around Canada and Alaska) so much they thought they’d take another.

They tell me this over a meal at Pacific Rim, an Asian fusion restaurant on Deck 5 that’s one of five dining venues on the ship (it offers a fantastic seafood laksa with lobster). We talk until 1am – and are up late the next few nights, too. The Hutts agree that this voyage has been more adventurous than they were anticipating – they were on the same rocky ferry to Delos that I was.

Positano on the Amalfi Coast in Italy

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Some of the local people we meet on the shore excursions are just as memorable. On the same day I first meet Keith and Johan in Kuşadası, I also encounter Semra Abdolah, our guide as we tour the villages under the bright sun. She introduces us to Daniel from Florida, who moved to Caferli in 2005 with his Turkish wife. Over the years, they expanded their home and adopted three dogs, one of them barely raising its head as we chat. Daniel says village life along the Turkish coast is perfection – especially on a balmy summer’s day.

Next door to Daniel’s house, Nazli Deniz runs a café, where she employs local village women so the money they earn goes back into the community. We have a traditional Turkish breakfast, which, among other things, includes

“Turkish cheese rolls” (flat bread wrapped around cheese and fried in olive oil). Deniz says she’s thankful for the return of cruise ships. “For two years everyone was jobless in the village,” she explains. “We never realised how important the ships are to the local economy.”

Willemse later says that during our voyage, the ship has been resupplying with local goods, such as tomatoes and olives. “Not only does it make a difference for the freshness of the ingredients but it also makes a real financial difference to the local people. That’s one of the beauties of travelling – we can assist local communities.”

I do remember the shore excursion in Naples, Italy, on day nine, towards the end of our voyage. More than 25 metres beneath the streets, I’m led by local

guide Assunta through a series of tunnels known as the Bourbon Gallery, which are carved from tuff, a volcanic stone. The underground maze, once used for shelter during World War II, has been open for tours since 2010 thanks to the work of volunteers, who receive no government support.

We enter a room filled with old cars and motorcycles, which according to Assunta, were dumped here in the latter half of the 20th century. “This is probably not what you were expecting,” she says, her voice echoing in a chamber with a ceiling so high that it’s difficult to see it.

I admit as much, snapping a photo so as to keep a memento of the strange sight. But what I don’t remember is how to get out and back to the Explorer

The Library onboard the Explorer

This year, 2022, we celebrate 25 years of Viking. From four river ships in 1997, our fleet is now over 80 strong. Today, Viking explores all seven continents and we’re proud to have set the standard for modern river, ocean and expedition voyages offering culturally-enriching itineraries to curiosity-fuelled travellers. In celebration of our 25th anniversary, you can explore a selection of our most popular ocean voyages with savings up to $2,800 per couple.

We invite you to join us on our onwards journey so we can expand our horizons together.

The edge of the world

Polar plunges, dog-sled tours and wildlife on tap leaves Eugenie Kelly in awe of a landscape frozen in time.

Photography by Melissa Findley and Ryan Field

It’s the bright stillness that strikes you in this frigid environment, teaching your ears to hone in on the smallest of sounds. The snapping of ropes, the howl of a dog in the distance, the squeak of footsteps as you gingerly navigate the ice.

In a marginal ice zone just off Greenland’s sparsely populated south-east coastline, after more than 30 hours of sailing from Reykjavik, Iceland, I don’t need to tune in to hear the ominous thundering of ice smashing against our ship’s hull. “Don’t look at the brochure!” orders captain Etienne Garcia with dramatic Gallic flair in his welcome address. “We might see wildlife and stop for hours. Or suddenly schedule a Zodiac cruise if we encounter ice that’s not too packed. And I know everyone wants to see polar bears but this isn’t a zoo. That’s the beauty of true exploration. It’s about keeping an open mind.”

Although I wouldn’t call myself an explorer, I like to think I have an open mind. Yes, I want to see polar bears in their remote habitat but I’m also wary of my carbon footprint (I’ve travelled a very long way from Australia) and the potential impacts of venturing into this pristine environment so early in the season when the ice is still packed.

I’ve signed up for Ponant’s Encounters With the Inuit and Spring Traditions cruise (au.ponant.com), an 11-day exploration of the east coast of Greenland which retraces the route of great explorers Jules de Blosseville, Jean-Baptiste Charcot and Paul-Émille Victor aboard Le Commandant Charcot, the company’s first PC2 polar-class hybrid-electric ship. To put that in perspective, most other vessels sailing in polar waters are rated PC6 (relating to the level of ice and polar conditions a ship can sail through).

Le Commandant Charcot started its commission in October 2021 and is fuelled by liquefied natural gas, has a dual-acting propulsion system (meaning it also goes backwards) and a hull that allows it to pass through channels inaccessible to other expedition ships. Ponant was the first cruise company in the world to abandon heavy fuel oil, is Cleanship Super certified and offsets all carbon emissions with reforestation and renewable energy projects.

“If you want a precise itinerary, an expedition cruise like this isn’t for you,” expedition leader Henry Wulff tells me. “We’re entering areas at a time of year, early spring, when there’s no

certainty. There are no other ships going where we are right now but with that risk comes reward.” He’s right. A planned route into Scoresby Sund, surrounded by granite cliffs, is called off when it’s deemed too dangerous to navigate. A trip to Sermilik proves more successful. Led by Jacques, our guide, my husband and I hike up a wall of ice under turquoise skies to the top of a black sharp-toothed mountain and as I look down below at the ship and the flotilla of icebergs that soar up from the dark waters of the cavernous fjord, the emptiness of the place is overwhelming.

It hits home again when we visit the isolated village of Kuummiut, whose 250 locals have never seen a cruise ship this early in the season. Ditto for the town of Tasiilaq (above left), a slightly larger Inuit settlement whose mostly indigenous community –once reliant on hunting and fishing – is hoping for a robust return to sustainable tourism. I’m surprised that some people here perceive climate change as a positive, though Wulff explains it well: “Being more accessible means longer seasons for tourism. When people living in lower latitudes are cut off by ice for long periods, you can understand why they think like this. It’s difficult

for us to grasp – especially when we’ve built a sustainable ship and want to create as little impact as possible.”

A dog-sled tour has been organised with the Tasiilaq locals so four of us from the ship cosy up on a sleigh, with the dogs fanning out in front and the musher commanding his pack from behind us. Our driver proudly tells us that these aren’t your run-of-themill malamutes or huskies. Rather, they’ve been specifically bred to haul heavy loads long distances. Perhaps the weight-to-dog ratio is off today (I’m blaming the past week’s foie gras, cocktails and cheese platters) because halfway through our trip, they slow down. Mr Musher jumps off to sprint alongside, shouting commands, and the pack surges suddenly. Leaving our driver behind. It’s a Sandra Bullock in Speed moment but Keanu materialises in the form of a Gore-Tex-layered daredevil snowmobile commandeer, who jumps aboard and saves the day.

Throughout the voyage, the wildlife comes to us. We spot Arctic fox tracks in the snow; see grey baby hooded seals snoozing on fields of ice, waiting for Mum to return with dinner; watch pods of killer whales work together to hunt for prey, metres in front of

our ship’s bow; and marvel at gregarious flocks of northern fulmars flying overhead for hours at a time. A scheduled stop at Cape Gustav Holm and a planned disembarkation to walk on the ice and explore this narrow mountainous peninsula is waylaid when the ship’s naturalists spot a mother polar bear and her cub from the viewing deck. Infanticide isn’t uncommon here but witnessing a hungry male bear charging a baby is spine-chilling (and thankfully the mother is in protective mode).

This group is apparently the most genetically and geographically isolated population of polar bears in the Arctic, hemmed in by mountainous terrain, open ocean and an ice sheet, so they’re not big on socialising. Two more introverts wander by to survey the scene – impetus for the naturalists on board to cancel our outing completely. Compensation comes in the form of flutes of Veuve and a dessert trolley laden with lemon meringue tarts, macarons and madeleines – a toast to mark us crossing 66 degrees north, the Arctic Circle’s official line of latitude.

The whole set-up speaks to a traveller who loves a little bit of luxury. And those prepared for a longer journey, if it means they

can access lesser-known locations and unique experiences. Many onboard are in their 50s and share a desire to learn so a favourable guest-to-guide ratio is a must. And every space, from the two restaurants – including Nuna, an Alain Ducasse collaboration – and an open-deck bar to the wellness spa, indoor and outdoor pools, lounges, hair salon, snow room and sauna, encourages guests to bask in the outdoor show through panoramic windows. The 123 staterooms and suites also pack a lot into their cabin interiors.

I soothe myself after a day’s adrenaline with a sunset swim in the outdoor heated pool, taking in the fairy floss hues of the sky as it casts a dazzling pink-golden glow. Yesterday, about 15 of the 180 passengers onboard indulged in a polar plunge, voluntarily jumping into the freezing waters and later declaring it the “most exhilarating thing” they’d ever done. Lying in the warmth of this water, watching huge shards of ice hitting the hull and then dancing alongside our ship as we depart for the frozen ocean once again, sums up fulfilment for me. Discovery doesn’t have to come with hardship – sometimes it lies in the stillness.

Liquid gold

Epic itineraries, carbon-neutral ships and in-suite caviar… Dilvin Yasa discovers what’s next in the cruise industry.

The new bucket list

Will it be Antarctica or the Arctic Circle?

Expedition cruise expert Hurtigruten (hurtigruten.com.au) solves the dilemma with its Ultimate Bucket List Expedition. The 94-day voyage aboard hybrid expedition cruise ship MS Roald Amundsen (left) sets sail from Vancouver. It takes modern-day adventurers on a journey from the epic sea ice of the Arctic Circle to the wildlife of Antarctica, with 11 countries, four continents and more than 100 landing sites along the way.

If spotting bears from a float plane and glacier-top dog sledding are on your list, here’s a tip: Holland America Line (hollandamerica.com) has been sailing to Alaska for 75 years – making its Alaskan itineraries older than the American state itself (that wasn’t official until 1959). The seven-day Alaskan Inside Passage cruise on the Koningsdam is a “top hits” of unique experiences onboard, offshore and in the air.

Next-level exclusivity

Helicopter flights, submarine dives and spacious suites with personalised butler service: it was only in 2019 that the launch of Scenic’s “discovery yacht”, Scenic Eclipse (scenic.com.au), set the benchmark in ultra-luxury cruising. But April 2023 heralds something even better: sister vessel Scenic Eclipse II. Among the features aboard the all-inclusive ship? Scenic Neptune, a next-gen submarine; an upgrade to the 550sqm Senses Spa; and a revamp of the Deck 10 design that includes a larger pool, outdoor area and bar. Initial itineraries kick off in the Mediterranean but 2024 will see departures from Newcastle, NSW.

Whether it’s a suite that’s decked out with a $200,000 Swedish Hästens mattress or a bathroom carved from nine types of marble, the devil’s in the detail for Seven Seas Grandeur, the sixth – and arguably most opulent – ship in the Regent Seven Seas Cruises (rssc.com) fleet. Scheduled to set sail in November 2023, the 732-passenger vessel will offer 15 categories among its all-inclusive staterooms (every suite above Penthouse category has a personal butler). Guests in the Regent Suite (the pinnacle of luxury onboard the ship) also enjoy a personal car with driver and an in-suite caviar service. Seven Seas Grandeur ’s inaugural season includes itineraries across the Atlantic, the Caribbean and the Mediterranean.

(Above) Take to the skies in the Scenic Eclipse II onboard helicopter

The Fine Line

There’s a fine line between two weeks in the sun and exploring the world in style. There’s a fine line between cruising and Cunard.

Cross it with us at Cunard.com

Queen Elizabeth is cruising in Australia and New Zealand this summer 2022/23.

Bigger and better ports

Catering to more than 3.7 million passengers per year is no mean feat but, happily, the soon-to-becompleted Nassau Cruise Port (nassaucruiseport. com), a US$300-million (about $425-million), six-berth project in the Bahamas, has set lofty goals. Not only will the port include a new terminal, an event and entertainment space, dining and retail venues, it will launch a Junkanoo museum that showcases Bahamian culture, plus a living coral exhibit.

Processing three ships and 15,000 passengers per day, all within steps of Istanbul’s iconic (and chaotic) Galata Tower, is a staggering proposition but the recent unveiling of Galataport Istanbul (galataport.com) proves it can be done. Opened as part of a US$1.7-billion (about $2.4-billion) project, the world’s first underground cruise terminal launched with baggage handling, customs and security on two subterranean levels, plus the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art and the Mimar Sinan University Museum of Painting and Sculpture above ground. The luxurious Peninsula Istanbul Hotel is set to join some 250 retail units in late 2022.

The drawcardsustainability

No longer content with offering luxury, Silversea (silversea.com) will mark 2023 as the year it becomes one of the most sustainable cruise lines when it welcomes Silver Nova (above) to its fleet. With hybrid power capabilities, Silver Nova will be the first emissionfree ship at port by using fuel cells and batteries when shore power is unavailable, as well as relying on liquefied natural gas (LNG) as its main fuel. This will allow the ship to achieve an estimated 40 per cent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions compared with the line’s newest ships, while giving passengers the option to choose a kinder liner. Silver Nova’s inaugural sail from Southampton to Rome is slated for July 2023.

Though its official title is Aurora Expeditions (auroraexpeditions.com.au), the Australian-owned expedition company is also known as the first cruise operator to be certified carbon-neutral – a feat achieved in 2021 thanks to its substantial investment in sustainability initiatives. Greenhouse gas emissions are offset by purchasing carbon credits from climate action and conservation projects, while the line is one of the first to build ships with the Ulstein X-Bow, an inverted bow that reduces fuel consumption. With the intention to formulate 23 resolutions to achieve global net-zero emissions by 2035, Aurora will host an Antarctic Climate Expedition next February, led by renowned oceanographer and conservationist Sylvia Earle.

The river cruising boom

Touring Europe with kids not only becomes easier but highly recommended with a Uniworld Generations cruise, a special programs feature available on select Uniworld Boutique River Cruises (uniworld.com). Sure, there are no roller-coasters and splash parks on the vessels but little ones will be busy with the wide range of activities on and off the ship, whether it’s shore excursions tailored exclusively for families or onboard dessert-making and cooking classes. Happily, two Family Hosts will oversee all activities for Junior Cruisers (kids aged four to 12) and Teen Cruisers (ages 13 to 17).

In a particularly busy year, Viking Cruises (vikingcruises. com.au) launched eight new river ships – elegant vessels set to navigate the Seine, Rhine and Danube. The cork popping didn’t stop there; the line also launched new, purpose-built ships for the Nile, as well as the Viking Mississippi – sailing the Lower and Upper Mississippi – which marks the brand’s first river cruises in the United States.

(Above and top) Viking’s river longships

THERE ARE

AND THEN THERE ARE

Daniel Boulud’s

signature

at

A bounty of new ships

Does size really matter? Cruise specialist Royal Caribbean (royalcaribbean.com) answered the age-old question this year when it launched Wonder of the Seas, the biggest cruise ship ever built. Joining the four earlier Oasis Class ships, Wonder – which holds close to 7000 people – is 18 decks high and 362 metres long, each space filled with a dizzying array of

entertainment opportunities, including surfing simulators, an ice-skating rink, multiple pool areas, miniature golf, a zip-line and 25 dining options. And new to those enjoying Mediterranean and Caribbean itineraries on Wonder is Playscape – an underwater-themed world dotted with slides, climbing walls and games.

What happens when you take the world’s top non-cruise architects and designers (everyone from Tom Wright of Burj Al Arab

fame to award-winning British designer Kelly Hoppen), add partnerships with the likes of Goop’s Gwyneth Paltrow and employ America’s first female captain of a megaship, Kate McCue? You have Celebrity Cruises’ Celebrity Beyond (celebritycruises.com), a 17-deck, 3260-passenger vessel launched to much fanfare in April and with good reason. The latest in the Edge series of ships, Beyond features Le Voyage, acclaimed chef Daniel Boulud’s first-ever restaurant at sea, plus Aqua

Sky Suite, a new class of accommodation that marries the best of the brand’s AquaClass staterooms with the services and amenities of The Retreat – Celebrity’s exclusive “resort within a resort”.

Other highly anticipated launches include the 2024 arrival of Queen Anne by Cunard (cunard.com) and Vista , the first new build in 11 years to join the fleet of luxury cruise line Oceania (oceaniacruises.com). It sets sail in April 2023.

Celebrity Beyond

Photo credit © PONANT-Commandant Patrick Marchesseau, © Studio PONANT-Laurent Lavole, © Paspaley, © Tourism WA

JERUSALEM

ANTARCTICA

A Journey Like No Other

to start exploring

Discover the pristine wilderness of Antarctica in ultimate comfort and style aboard our modern scandi-design, spacious, premium small-ship expeditions.

Our Expedition Team will share their in-depth knowledge and expertise on the daily shore landings or onboard in our world leading Science Centre. Participate in Citizen Science research led by our friends at UTAS and the Institute for

Marine and Antarctic studies. Hurtigruten Expeditions’ explorers enjoy landings, trekking, zodiac cruising and the adventurous can sea kayak or even choose to camp on the ice overnight.

This is a bucket list journey of luxury as you choose to dine in our three spectacular restaurants, relax in the chic explorer bar with unhindered views or refresh in our health and wellness centre, spa, sauna, and pool.

Choose from our three expedition ships, multiple itineraries and departures on the world’s leading hybrid-powered, sustainable fleet. Get ready for an adventure like no other.

Stargaze at this chic retreat in the Californian desert

The 1960s chair that’s an Australian Modernist classic

Ease into the new season in relaxed fashion

Daniel Goode

On The Inside

LE CHACUEL, CALIFORNIA

A blazing orange sunset lights up the sky over the Yucca Valley, a rugged desertscape dominated by Joshua trees and boulders about two hours drive east of Los Angeles. “I’ve been all over the world but sunset here is the definition of magic,” says Mila Morris, the designer, architect and owner of Le Chacuel, a minimalist two-bedroom Airbnb (airbnb.com) overlooking the valley. “The coyotes start to howl at dusk and at night the stars feel so close it’s almost like they’re falling on you.”

No matter where you are on the property – by the heated saltwater pool, in the kitchen or gazing out of the sliding glass doors in the living room – there’s no such thing as a bad outlook. “The living room is my favourite,” says Morris. “Aside from the views, you have the glass table and the fireplace, and the espresso and ice machines are right there.”

STORY BY RACHEL LEES PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIA SALTZMAN

A pared-back house in the Mojave Desert became a labour of love for two talented creatives.

After purchasing the property in 2018, Morris spent about 18 months working on the house. Crisp white walls contrast with organic materials, such as wood and leather, in muted tones to evoke the earthy colours of the surrounding landscape. She enlisted furniture designer Jøna Maaryn to create the tables, chairs and other pieces – and the project became a literal labour of love for the pair when their partnership turned romantic.

Le Chaucel is the couple’s retreat between guest bookings and their preferred time to visit is in the winter. “Most every season here is heavenly,” says Morris. “The only difference is the temperature at night; in the summer the nights are warm and in the winter they’re chilly. It isn’t freezing but we can have a fire and it’s cosy. Sometimes it even snows – it’s rare but it’s magical.”

I still call Australia home

Proudly reconnecting Australia and the world

LUCY O’DOHERTY

“My dad is one of my art heroes,” says Sydney-based Lucy O’Doherty. “As a little kid, I’d draw and borrow his art materials and he’d encourage me to go on trips with him, where he would bring extra sketchbooks and materials for me.”

O’Doherty’s father is artist Christopher O’Doherty, aka Reg Mombassa, a creative hero to many Antipodeans. But her father wasn’t the only family member who left a lasting influence on the young painter – her grandfather built dollhouses and played a huge part in her fascination with architecture and domestic space. “Playing with my grandpa’s dollhouses made me appreciate the aspects of a home and how rooms can imply and shape a narrative. I grew up appreciating houses for their form, more like sculptural objects. I like the way the light hits and the tonal variations in the shadows.”

O’Doherty’s works are serene, unnerving, other-worldly yet familiar – a technique she’s honed in pursuit of nostalgia while responding to the world around her. “I’m always trying to find a dream-like quality in whatever I paint or draw and a pastel palette works well in creating that nostalgic feel.”

Her most recent exhibition, The Calm and the Storm, at China Heights Gallery in Sydney, saw O’Doherty respond to the contrast of pandemic life against climate emergencies. When viewed as a body of work, the varied subject matter, including flowers, icebergs, swimming pools, windswept palm trees and Barbie Dreamhouse-like interiors, was suffused in a post-apocalyptic mood. “I just start creating. I won’t have the concept immediately in mind or know what the overall body of work will be. It will usually be a reaction to whatever I’m experiencing at that time. After that, I look at the works together and interpret what they mean. It feels like therapy and gives me a good sense of what’s happening in the world and in my world.”

Family, nostalgia and an exploration of home inform this artist’s dreamy, enigmatic works.

Studied at: National Art School, Sydney Exhibited at : Edwina Corlette Gallery, Brisbane; China Heights Gallery, Sydney; Art Gallery of NSW (Wynne Prize), Sydney; Millers O’brien Gallery, New Zealand; S.H. Ervin Gallery, Sydney.

Selection of awards: Wynne Prize, finalist (2020); Brett Whiteley Travelling Art Scholarship, Art Gallery of NSW, winner (2016); Pro Hart Outback Art Prize, highly commended (2016); Mosman Art Prize, finalist (2015); Brunswick Street Gallery Small Works Prize, finalist (2013), and On Paper category, finalist (2012).

Breakthrough moment: “Winning the Brett Whiteley Travelling Art Scholarship [in 2016] gave me exposure like I’d never had before. The experience of going on a residency allowed me to incorporate travel into my practice, respond to places that I travelled to and get a bit of perspective around what other artists and creatives are doing in other countries.”

What the critics say: “Her combinations of tertiary and pastel colours are unusual. Her sense of form defies logic yet makes sense. There’s a stillness about these paintings that I admire.” – Brett Whiteley Travelling Art Scholarship guest judge and artist Tom Carment

Creative Process

STORY BY NOELLE FAULKNER

BY KITTY CALLAGHAN

GRACE FARMS, CONNECTICUT

This community centre in the United States is a model of faultless sustainable design, says Melbourne-based architect Sean Godsell.

Foundations

AS TOLD TO RACHEL LEES PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN KAUFMAN

Grace Farms is a fascinating take on a town square. Completed seven years ago in New Canaan – a town of just over 20,000 people in Connecticut in the United States – the property calls itself a community centre but it’s more sophisticated than that. It includes a library, café, lecture theatre and an indoor sports centre. There are undercover outdoor spaces that roll into gardens and studios for artists to hire. Historically, small towns had a meeting place and this building brings that idea back into people’s thinking.

It’s a privately funded project accessible to the broader populace so is a remarkable act of philanthropy. It was the result of like-minded community members pooling their resources. The commission went to Japanese firm SANAA around the time it was awarded the 2010 Pritzker Prize, considered the Nobel Prize of architecture.

The Grace Farms building is exclusively glazed on its perimeter. It has a serpentine form that cascades down a slope and is known as the River building because SANAA’s idea was to emulate the course of a river. Glass was chosen to make it dissolve into the landscape and disappear. In this time of climate change, glass in buildings is a complex problem because it’s a relatively poor thermal insulator.

New Canaan has remarkable examples of Mid-century Modern architecture, including Philip Johnson’s Glass House. SANAA may disagree but I see a corollary between it and the River building. The challenge of the Glass House in the 1940s was the use of glass in a climate where it snows. By tackling that problem with double glazing and a geothermal-powered “thermal curtain” that combine to minimise heat loss, SANAA took Johnson’s building and advanced it by 70 years. The result is elegant and functional.

It’s a beautifully constructed building. The people who delivered it deserve equal credit with the architects who conceived of it because it’s superb. When you get to a certain stage as an architect, you zoom in on the faults in your own and others’ work. I spent hours at Grace Farms and I couldn’t fault the River building. It’s an extraordinary effort and a simple yet complex form.

The Grace Farms group has a declared agenda of ethical design, in terms of the environment and also when buildings are constructed; the architects take responsibility for ensuring that the materials aren’t the result of modern slavery. There’s a nobility in their concern for making the world a better place and to follow that through to the procurement of building materials is unusual.

Sean Godsell established his design practice (seangodsell.com) in Melbourne in 1994. He was commissioned for the Venice Architecture Biennale in 2018 and this year was awarded the Gold Medal by the Australian Institute of Architects.

SCAPE DINING CHAIR

When chef Ben Shewry was kitting out Attica, his award-winning Melbourne restaurant, sourcing the right dining chair was a crucial step in “a small building filled with thousands of details”. Like Goldilocks, Shewry found one that was just right: the Scape chair, designed by Grant Featherston in 1960.

Geelong-born Featherston was a self-taught glass and lighting designer, who turned his mind to furniture after World War II. His first collection of Relaxation chairs made from hardwood, plywood and surplus army webbing were a giant leap from the overstuffed upholstered models squatting in Australian homes at the time. “He would break up a polite dinner party by saying that all antique furniture should be burnt!” his wife, designer Mary Featherston, said in 2006.

The chairs and their dashing designer both generated favourable press after featuring in architect Robin Boyd’s House of Tomorrow display at the 1949 Modern Home Show in Melbourne. But it was during a stint as consultant for Melbourne manufacturer Aristoc Industries from 1957 to 1970 that Featherston really flexed his

Modernist muscle, exploiting new materials and techniques to create affordable, design-led pieces that could be mass produced for a wide market. The shapely Scape dining chair, with its tapered metal tube frame and upholstered plywood seat and backrest, was a result of this period.

Interiors curator Simone Haag says the chair blurs the line between its Australian provenance and a European sensibility, fitting her personal “anywhere in the world” design objectives. “It has restraint and masculinity, is very elegant and well executed. It just ticks every box.”

Grant and Mary, a trained interior designer, collaborated on projects until his death in 1995. In 2016, Grazia Materia, co-founder of Melbourne-based furniture design company Grazia & Co (graziaandco.com.au), convinced Mary to resume production of the Scape and other key pieces, under licence with Gordon Mather Industries. This act preserved the Featherston legacy, making a genuine Scape chair available and more affordable at $1490 than the remaining originals, which now fetch thousands.

This elegant 1960s piece has never gone out of style.

1.

KEEP IT TIMELESS

With the change of season, lightweight fabrics are your go-to for relaxed yet sophisticated dressing. Complete the look with accessories in rich tan and navy leather.

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five rules of engagement in the post-COVID workplace

lessons of APRA’s executive director of

is the

to

Therese McCarthy Hockey, executive director of banking at APRA

WORK IT OUT

The post-COVID workplace has had its growing pains, whether you work in the office, from home or embrace hybrid. How do we get past half-in, half-out meetings and empty offices to make this new way of working work for everyone?

Illustrations by Steven Moore

RULE Nº

Jane Nicholls details the rules of engagement.

CREATE A HEALTHY CULTURE FOR REMOTE MEETINGS

“The key to having better virtual meetings is having fewer meetings,” says Darren Murph, head of remote for United States-headquartered GitLab, a software engineering company that was “born remote” in 2011 and today has more than 1900 employees in 60-plus countries. Although Murph thinks meetings will fade into obscurity as their relevance diminishes, he has three suggestions for making meetings better.

If one person is remote, everyone is remote.

“If you do have people in the office, each person needs to go to their desk or if they’re in a shared room, they have their own device and log on to Microsoft Teams or Zoom individually. When everyone is in a box, it enables some sort of equality. For people who are remote, it’s easy to feel like you’re on the B team if you see everyone else together in a meeting room.”

Never have a meeting without an agreed documentation regime.

“At GitLab, every work meeting has a shared document. We use Google Docs; some teams use Microsoft Office. It’s about the rigour of always

having an agenda, to make sure there are no pointless meetings – and none without a documented takeaway. If people can’t attend the meeting, they can catch up later because someone put in the effort to document it. That’s a more inclusive way of having a meeting – you don’t have to get up at three in the morning or cancel picking up your child to be there.”

Be specific about what you will and what you won’t have meetings for.

“It’s shocking how many organisations, for example, nitpick about a minor claim on an expense report but let anyone in the company book an hour of synchronous time with 50 people, with no agenda and no guaranteed outcome. That’s incredibly expensive! When you clarify which purposes you’ll have meetings for – and which you won’t – it creates a lot of great conversations across the company and you begin to challenge the old ways of doing things. There are good reasons for having a meeting – kick-off calls, brainstorm calls with a third party you’ve never met before or a one-on-one between a direct report and a manager. But there are other mediums for status updates and FYIs.”

Agenda

UNDERSTAND THE ROLE OF THE OFFICE

“We have concierge staff to greet employees who might be visiting from anywhere in the world and local programming to help people connect to the Austin community. We’re building an office tower in Sydney, which will have similar principles of collaboration.”

Dean agrees with Parker’s point that individual circumstances vary. “Some people are using the office to focus because they don’t have enough room working from their kitchen table. We want to maintain that desk footprint, with more private spaces for people to be able to function in that way. We used to have conference rooms for four to six people but now have more oneto-one videoconferencing booths and larger spaces for groups gathering from distributed locations for an on-site in the office.”

“The idea that you can get everyone back in the office is a fallacy,” says Aaron McEwan, vice-president, Research & Advisory, at consulting firm Gartner. He says that while travel, theatre, hospitality and sport are returning to pre-COVID levels, “office attendance can barely crack 30 to 35 per cent”. But it’s no longer about the pandemic. “Employees have realised that they prefer more flexibility and the reasons run deep.” Those reasons include work-life balance but people also report they do better work. “The vast majority of knowledge workers are doing increasingly complex work and our data shows that they do their best work remotely and alone.”

Curtin University’s Professor Sharon Parker, director of the Centre for Transformative Work Design, says the socio-economic divide can also play in the other direction. “A lot of the people who want to come back into the office are escaping a single

bedroom with a partner,” she says. “Leaders need to understand the real lives of their people, whether they have a three-hour commute because they can’t afford to live closer to the city or they don’t have a beautiful garden and exclusive office area in their home. It’s about recognising that people come at this from diverse situations.”

In August 2020, tech giant Atlassian declared all its employees would always have the choice about where they work. “We’re growing rapidly and it’s giving us access to talent in [new] regions,” says Annie Dean, global head of Team Anywhere, which drives the company’s transition from an office-based to a “distributed-first” workforce. “We’re designing our company to integrate that talent and keep them connected.”

Atlassian is maintaining its physical workplaces but redesigning them. “The old office was about productivity; the new office is all about experience.” Its recently renovated office in Austin, Texas, has just 77 desks over six floors.

The bottom line is listening to individuals about which environment is most conducive to what they do. “The future of work is the work that robots can’t do,” says McEwan. “It’s harder, more emotional and more creative and to do it you have to be well-rested and healthy.” Hybrid work makes it simpler to achieve that, especially when most knowledge jobs no longer rely on using equipment only available in offices.

Leaders need to accept the new reality, he says, because forcing staff back into the office full-time is doomed to fail. “The equivalent is if you were a bricks-and-mortar retailer in the early- to mid-2000s and you’d given your customers the opportunity to purchase over the internet but then you decided, ‘No, we don’t like this. We’re closing our internet sales down and you’re all coming back into the shop to buy our stuff.’ It’s never going to happen.”

McEwan says some retailers have made their stores a destination that goes way beyond the products they sell and leaders should consider that strategy for their workplaces. “You can’t just put the work in the office – you have to create an experience around being there. If you get that, you’ll be fine. If you don’t, you’re going to be like the last Blockbuster store.”

RETHINK AND MAXIMISE PERSONAL CONNECTIONS

Offsite get-togethers are no longer taken for granted after they were on hold for more than two years. “I’ve just come back from our first worldwide partner in-person meeting and the vibe was super-positive,” says Natasha Winton, chief HR officer Asia Pacific and a managing director and partner at Boston Consulting Group (BCG). “In a global organisation like ours, you need to keep the connections vibrant and alive. Those relationships get a turbo-boost.”

Nonetheless, Winton says BCG will do fewer in-person meetings in the future. “Many of our meetings are moving to half the cadence in person.” Employees will use their time differently, she says, beginning with avoiding doing anything in real life that could be done virtually.

“We try to use the time for brainstorming, small groups doing whiteboard exercises, connections across geographies where people get to know each other. And how we structure the agenda is changing.”

It’s more about giving people the chance to become acquainted. “We used to struggle to find 15 minutes for morning tea. Now we build in 30 minutes for those breaks – the tea break is an opportunity to connect.” Sit-down dinners are having a shake-up, too, in favour of less formal settings where people can move around and talk. “There’s something about people getting together and staying somewhere good that feels like, ‘My company is investing in me.’ And it makes the work easier. You can’t build the same trust and camaraderie virtually that you can in person. These things are the glue for organisations and teams.”

Offsites will become even more important in a distributed world, says Murph, “and because you might not see those people again for six or 12 months, people treat it differently, with a higher degree of respect and honour”.

Those working for themselves or for companies that don’t run to corporate offsites could create a DIY version. McEwan points to the rise of the digital nomad visa, which is now available in more than 40 countries and permits the visa holder to stay for a year or more, working remotely. “It’s really exciting because international travel will now include these knowledge workers, freed from the tyranny of the office, being able to do their work from places like Bali. That’s awesome!”

RULE Nº

EMBRACE ASYNCHRONOUS AND SYNCHRONOUS WORK

That doesn’t mean letting go of synchronous work. “It’s about designing teams with cohesive time zones, with at least four hours of synchronous overlap across the team every day. The experience of working synchronously, virtually, will continue to get better. In the future, it’ll be one click to whiteboard with a stylus and a secondary screen to establish collaboration, just like we used to do in an office setting. Some of those technologies aren’t fully adopted yet.”

With teams in Australia, the United States, India, Japan, the Philippines and Europe, Atlassian has long navigated working across time zones.

“Asynchronous and synchronous work is about better planning,” says Dean. “We make sure that teams spend time upfront to clearly identify objectives and the scope of work. That information is accessible at the company and people can find the information they need at any time.”

Murph is convinced that asynchronous work will become the dominant mode. “COVID opened the eyes of a lot of companies to location independence –this epiphany that an employee can be in a different place than the company’s address and still get work done.

“It’s been a massive leap forward for society and the next will be time independence – you’ll have greater control over when you work and when you do your best work. This is in direct conflict with the idea of synchronous meetings, which stand in the way of greater time independence for the digital workforce.”

Organisations that open up asynchronous work have much to gain, he says. “There are fewer bottlenecks because you’re simply waiting less. The logistics industry has mastered supply-chain efficiency so that items arrive just in time and have minimal warehousing and maximum throughput. Asynchronous knowledge work follows exactly the same track. From a pure efficiency standpoint, it simply makes more sense to enable people to do work at the time that suits them, versus having to wait for someone else.”

McEwan gives the example of the positive impact remote work had on the writing room of a major Australian media company. “It’s the group that you might think would benefit least from working at home. They were normally in a writers’ room yet were struggling to find the time to write. Managers heard from their creative teams that they were doing better work at home because they had more time to write, rather than spending their time arguing over plotlines.”

UNDERSTAND EACH OTHER’S BOUNDARIES

When working from home, the feeling of being “always on” has taken a mental-health toll but Curtin University’s Parker says that it’s not universal. “Setting boundaries is more important for some people than others – it’s called your work/ home segmentation preferences. Some people like to keep home and work separate; others find they get some benefits from blurring them.” Unsurprisingly, those in the first category struggle more with WFH. Parker says that thinking about those preferences and understanding that not everyone responds in the same way is important for both individuals and managers.

She says there are tricks that can make a difference for at-home workers, including getting dressed as if you were heading into the office, not using “commuting time” to work and changing into casual clothes at

the end of the day. People who are happy “boundary-blurrers or integrators”, as Parker calls them, face other issues. “They’re the ones who’ll keep working until 7pm and have their family complain they’re not giving them enough attention. Each type has different risks that we should look out for and approach from a place of self-awareness.”

“It takes a lot more discipline to switch off,” agrees Winton. “We need breaks between the two universes of work and home, to be fully present in each. As a leader, I might like being blurred but I need to be cognisant that others might not. I need to let people choose their way of being and not send that email at the time I write it – delay sending it or leave it in drafts. Am I perfect at this? Absolutely not. But consciousness is the first step.”

Murph says GitLab encourages its staff not to install their work email or Slack on their phones. “You’re not

going to haul around a desktop computer but your phone is always on you. In a remote or distributed setting, individuals have more responsibility to take control over their day. Otherwise it’s far too easy to go from ‘I’m working from home’ to ‘I’m living at work’.”

Those employees who are used to commuting to a physical office should block that time off for themselves, he advises. “Early in the pandemic, most people were giving that 60 to 90 minutes back to the employer but that was never the employer’s time.

“Put something in your calendar that’s meaningful, whether it’s resting, exercising, knitting or calling a friend. The act of deliberately recapturing that time and setting a digital alarm to remind you to do that thing instead of working will really help you to reset your mind.”

The perfect set-up

The right office furniture can boost employee wellbeing and reduce business risk.

Working from home (WFH) is now deeply entrenched in our vocabulary and our lives, which means home set-ups are just as crucial as office workstations. WFH is now the norm for many of us.

Providing stylish and affordable ergonomic furniture at home for your WFH team is not just about showing how much you value them – it’s a risk-mitigation imperative for your business.

Work health and safety obligations apply equally to staff when they WFH as they do in the office, says lawyer Nicola Martin, a partner in the Labour and Employment Practice Group at Squire Patton Boggs. “The home environment should be seen as an extension of the office environment, with properly setup workstations. Furniture can also emulate the company’s culture and

standards of working, providing high-quality, productive spaces.”

From a risk perspective, Nicola warns that workers compensation claims for WFH-associated injuries are already on the rise. Many relate to injuries caused by poor posture, muscle strain and RSI, the result of desk set-ups that are simply not fit for purpose. “At a minimum, employers should have WFH policies in place, including health and safety checklists.”

The workstation set-up – even if it’s just a desk and chair – is both the biggest potential risk and the simplest thing to fix. Many businesses are investing the savings they’re making from reducing their office space into the health and wellbeing of their staff, including improving their WFH conditions.

Maxton at Home’s manufacturing partner has been making furniture in Australia for more than 50 years and its team of manufacturing and design experts has paid particular attention to the needs of the WFH world. Sustainability is a core consideration, minimising waste across production in its Sydney factory. The company’s Furniture as a Service (FAAS) enables managers to choose rental or purchase-outright solutions from the WFH range, with rental prices starting from the price of a coffee a day for a stylish ergonomic set-up.

Employees won’t have to deal with the frustration of flat-pack set-ups, either. Maxton at Home’s trained installers deliver and assemble all the furniture on site, tuning it to fit the ergonomic requirements of each user.

Switched-on leaders are prioritising supporting healthy WFH set-ups today, rather than waiting for workers comp claims tomorrow.

Work from home better with Maxton at Home www.maxtonathome.com

Presented by Maxton at Home

“

Many businesses are investing the savings they’re making from reducing their office space into the health and wellbeing of their staff, including improving their WFH conditions.

Leading into the future

“Every generation faces change but for this generation of CEOs and other senior leaders, the rate and dimensionality of change is remarkable,” says Associate Professor Vivek Chaudhri, academic director of Executive MBA programs at Melbourne Business School. “The American military coined a term for what leaders are navigating: ‘VUCA’, which stands for volatility, uncertainty, complexity and ambiguity.”

Melbourne Business School has designed its Executive MBA (EMBA) and Senior Executive MBA (SEMBA) degrees specifically to upskill the leaders of today and tomorrow. The programs give students the knowledge and lifelong networks that will enable them to strategise across business functions, be confident in the face of ambiguity and ensure their organisations run on a culture of learning and innovation.

“This generation has to think about strategy and value, innovation and experimentation, building resilient organisations and leading their people with empathy,” says Chaudhri. “They have to do all of that in a world in which you can’t envision what tomorrow will look like because there’s such a fog of uncertainty and ambiguity around us.”

The SEMBA program includes three international modules, each of which provides essential grounding in a world that talks globalisation, yet walks to different rhythms depending on the social and cultural influences in various regions.

“For instance, at WHU Otto Beisheim School of Management in Germany, the focus around strategy and innovation is about long-term commitment, precision and planning and automation. Our partner

school on the West Coast of the United States is UC Berkeley and the approach in Silicon Valley is very different – it’s about experimentation, failing fast and pivoting to frontiers.”

Students get direct exposure to CEOs, boards and senior leaders in each of those locations, adding to their invaluable peer networks and gaining local insights from those in the industry.

Plus, students develop strategic skills to map out a multi-faceted plan for their organisation, while being ready to discard it “and navigate by sight when the map doesn’t reflect reality”, says Chaudhri. “Sometimes the right thing to do when you hit a boundary is not to pivot but instead push harder because the value you’re seeking might be on the other side of that obstacle.”

Presented by Melbourne Business School

Vision, flexibility and deftness are required to navigate the challenges of the present. But today’s leaders also need to scan the horizon for future risks and opportunities. Two MBA degrees focus on building these capabilities.

Deploy powerful strategic frameworks

Rob Clayton, managing director of agriculture company Nutrien Ag Solutions, says two of the strategic frameworks from the Senior Executive MBA, which he completed this year, quickly became instrumental to the way he leads. “One is where you write a media release of what ‘good’ will look like in five years’ time. From there, you work backwards to make it true.”

He is currently using it as Nutrien Ag Solutions builds the sustainability side of the company. “We’re not trying to copy something, we’re trying to build something that hasn’t been built and that’s challenging.”

The second SEMBA framework that Clayton often employs is to write a “pre-mortem” failure scenario before starting a project. “We ask, ‘What could go wrong? What should we be thinking about if this doesn’t work and why would that be?’ We use those right across the business to get the vision and the purpose across to our 4000 staff.”

Learn to embrace ambiguity

“Vague, uncertain and complex situations can be embraced by leaning into the uncertainty,” says Jenny Selway, group manager, Victorian Connections, with the Australian Energy Market Operator (AEMO), who completed her Executive MBA this year. “The EMBA provided me with principles and frameworks to navigate through ambiguity. It also taught me how to build ambiguity into strategy through scenario planning and construction of pivot points.”

Selway, who had an engineering background before joining AEMO this year, was used to considering uncertainties in scenario planning but the EMBA “pulled it all together. It’s about accepting and expecting the ambiguity versus making a guess about which outcome is the most likely and then planning for that. We learnt how to communicate the ambiguity and be honest about what we know and what we don’t – while being firm on a vision and mission – essential to bringing people along on the journey and leading when faced with the unknown.”

Build an innovation culture

“The course was a game changer for me when it comes to innovation and thinking more outwardly,” says Simon Hupfeld, CEO of AMES Australasia, who completed his Senior Executive MBA in 2018.

AMES is a US gardenware conglomerate and Hupfeld oversees numerous Australian brands, including Nylex and Hills.

“It led me to think more about our customers’ needs and what problems we could solve for them. It’s a real trap for organisations to get caught up in their own ideas.”

Hupfeld says that after the SEMBA, he accelerated investment in the company’s innovation and design department and implemented some “terrific frameworks, strategies and tools” from the US study module. It led to a project around the famous Hills Hoist.

“We embarked on market research to understand what customers cared most about and ranked every care factor. We designed different componentry to make hanging laundry easier and it resulted in a whole new range.”

Three Melbourne Business School alumni share key takeaways from their MBA study.

Michael Brand

In December, the director of the Art Gallery of NSW will unveil Sydney Modern, the $344-million extension that will double the gallery’s size and, he hopes, prove the critics wrong.

CURRENT ROLE

TENURE

AGE

PREVIOUS

Director,

Gallery

How do you define good leadership? It has to start with imagination. Not many organisations these days are going to hire a CEO just to keep things ticking over. You’ve got to be able to think of different outcomes and different futures. Communication is obviously critical – with your leadership team, with your staff, with your stakeholders. Have clarity and get on with working out what you’ve got to do and do it efficiently, with no drama.

Imagination is something a lot of leaders don’t talk about but in your arena, creativity is very important. We’re basically a public-private partnership. We have to raise a lot of our funds – commercial revenue, sponsorship deals and all of that – so we’re at an intersection between the government world and the private world. The creative world

INTERVIEW BY KIRSTEN GALLIOTT

BY MARC N É MORIN

meets the technical world. We’ve got to have security, we’ve got to have the right climate conditions for works of art. We have young school kids, we have art history professors. Everyone mixes in a museum and to me that’s one of the beautiful things.

When you were appointed director in 2012, Sydney Modern was already in the planning stages, wasn’t it?

I inherited a master plan that said, “We need roughly this much more space and we’ve looked at various options and we believe here is the place.” That’s what I was shown when I was talking to the board about this position. So I’ve been very lucky to do something significant but start from the beginning, without someone else having designed it. It was very much an open slate but it does take a long time to achieve.

It’s been 10 years in the making. Has that been frustrating for you?

I don’t think it’s frustrating. When you build a project of this scale that involves a public institution in the middle of an amazing city like Sydney, people are interested. You have a lot of stakeholders, whether it’s government funders or potential private benefactors. There are people who love the Art Gallery, people who love architecture, people who love urban design. Everyone is going to have an opinion so you have to be patient and bring everyone along on that journey.

This is a monumental project, something that will be around for generations. How heavily does that weigh on you?

It’s a huge honour but also a huge responsibility. A building site like this in Sydney – overlooking the harbour and the Botanic Garden with the city skyscrapers in the background – is very rare. Making sure we live up to that opportunity was the biggest challenge.

Do you think a lot about legacy?

I think a lot about institutional legacy. This isn’t a personal project. But I feel excited to have the chance to make a mark on a city and change the way people experience art.

Many leaders have to balance short-term business needs with long-term vision. What’s your comfort zone?

An art museum is almost by definition long-term, particularly one like ours. We’re 151 years old so we know exactly how public perceptions, ambitions and desires change over time. You have to presume that any decision you make now will be looked at in another 150 years. It’s also business as usual – you’ve got to keep the doors open and staff paid and the art safe – but you have to be on top of changes in society, too, because art intersects with politics, social ideas and ethics and they change quickly. An art museum trying to debate whether Impressionism is a good idea is a bit behind the game.

You talked about everyone having an opinion. How does that play out for you in your daily life, listening to all the voices?

Works of art embody all sorts of ideas, ambitions and points of view. When you put that in front of visitors or viewers in

“

There’s criticism, which is often personal, and then there’s critique. In Australia there’s probably a bit too much of the former and not enough of the latter. With a project of this scale, there should be critique. The public should be looking at what we’re doing and keeping our feet to the fire.

”

a public space, that’s when everything comes to life. You’ve got to respect the fact that people have different opinions and you want there to be debate. But what you’d like to have is informed, respectful debate.

There’s critique and there’s critics...

Exactly. There’s criticism, which is often personal, and then there’s critique. In Australia there’s probably a bit too much of the former and not enough of the latter. With a project of this scale, there should be critique. The public should be looking at what we’re doing and keeping our feet to the fire. What you don’t want is bitter personal criticism or only negativity.

How do you deal with that? You’ve had former Prime Minister Paul Keating accusing you of creating a megaplex and current NSW Premier Dominic Perrottet accusing you of being out of touch over restaurant expenses. It’s got to sting. You just have to focus on what your duties are, do those with integrity and ignore the other stuff. I mean you can’t take personally what you know is not accurate.

Do you lose sleep over it?

No. It comes with the game of running a high-profile institution in a dynamic city... You have to be careful not to get distracted by things that aren’t actually going to make a difference.

An important part of your job is getting people to part with their money. You managed to get more than $100 million for Sydney Modern so you’re clearly very good at it. How did you develop that skill? I have a PhD in art history but I can tell you that wasn’t part of the training – Philanthropy 101 [smiles]. First up, it’s not

something you do by yourself. It’s a huge team effort and the director has a particular role in that. If you think about it, what I do is just try to share a dream with people and it’s something I’m very excited about. I meet a lot of people and tell them what we’re hoping to achieve. It’s actually not that hard but it isn’t all gushy enthusiasm. It’s a very rigorous, disciplined system of finding the right people to talk to and knowing how to pace those discussions. This campaign has been fantastic but it’s a lot of work. It’s not like, “Oh, I’ve had an idea and I think that person is interested in contemporary art so they’ll give us bags of money, surely.” You don’t just turn up and get the money.

You work with such wildly divergent people. You have donors, I’d imagine a fairly robust board and government… And artists. The wildcard [laughs].

How do you manoeuvre among all of those people and do you change your style depending on who you’re talking to?

No, I think you ought to have a consistent style. And if your style is open, reasonable, fair and decisive, I think that works with an artist, a banker or a corporate leader. And in an art museum a bit of informality works in both directions. I don’t think an artist wants to see me marching around 24/7 in a three-piece suit with a starched shirt. I think everyone respects the sense of genuine rather than playing to a particular crowd.

What would you describe as your biggest strength as a leader?

I’m a clear thinker and maybe a bit obsessive about that. It becomes a bit of over-organisation sometimes [laughs] but you do need to manage your time and thoughts. You can’t just have plans running all over the place; things have to be achievable. Sometimes being ambitious is seen as a negative here, whereas in the United States, if you’re not ambitious you’re not going to get anywhere. I think I’m institutionally and collaboratively ambitious. We want to make some big changes because you only get to do it once in a lifetime.

And what about your biggest gap as a leader?

Sometimes I over-prepare for things and then you run the risk of losing spontaneity and your natural personality, for better or worse.

When you’ve been in a role for 10 years, everyone starts asking how much longer you’re going to hang around. Your predecessor, Edmund Capon, was here for 33 years. How do you know when it’s time to go? Sometimes it’s made very clear to you [laughs]. Hopefully not in this situation. I’m not aiming for 33 years but it is actually a lot of fun. What better place to work? Seeing art from all over the world, young school kids coming for their first art museum experience – that’s not something you want to flee necessarily. But you do need to think about succession planning and know that if you stay too long, you might complicate the process of finding the next person or deny leaders of another generation the chance to have their say.

You’ve described yourself as an optimist. Does it help when you’re leading an organisation to have that positive energy? Absolutely. If you’re conveying pessimism, that would be terrible. One of the key things during the COVID situation was to keep that optimism going. Curiosity, optimism and imagination are not words that are used all the time but to me they are absolutely key.

How do you wind down?

I have a happy family life. And I listen to music a lot. I wouldn’t mind having more time to pursue more personal creativity. In this role, everything is very guided. You have to be so careful – one wrong word and you’re crucified. Could this upset the government, could it upset a sponsor, could it upset the art world, could it upset colleagues at work inadvertently? I’ve been doing some personal writing and it’s been good to think that I can write whatever I want.

Is it fiction?

No, I’ve been writing about my teenage years. That sort of writing is interesting because you’re not footnoting everything. It’s really liberating.

What advice would you give a new CEO? Drop the “I” and the “my” right away – it’s all about “we” and “us”. Listen to people and ask questions. “What are your goals? Are there things that you would have liked to have done but didn’t have the chance?” If you talk openly, with curiosity, you can create a place where ideas can intercept and influence each other.

Sometimes being ambitious is seen as a negative here, whereas in the United States, if you’re not ambitious you’re not going to get anywhere. We want to make some big changes because you only get to do it once in a lifetime.

DIAL UP THE DIFFERENCES

Three POD strategies

Make yourself accessible

Digital marketing agency Digilari Media has been selective in where it “hangs its shingle”, says managing director and founder Sean Brown. Headquartered in Sumner Park, on the outskirts

What makes your business stand out from the crowd? For SMEs, the personal touch can sometimes reap the biggest rewards.

So you spotted a gap in the market and started a business. Serving that gap may have been your point of difference (POD) for a while. But perhaps there are new players piggybacking on your idea or it’s just harder to compete when everyone is discounting their products and bombarding people’s inboxes with promotions. Is it time for a POD refresh?

Dani Holloway, CEO and founder of gumboot makers Merry People, started her business in 2014, when the market stretched from Bunnings’ $20 mud-slingers to traditional Hunter wellies and $1000plus Jimmy Choos. Country-bred but working in the Melbourne CBD, she

couldn’t find footwear that would get her to work with dry feet on a rainy day.

She realised there was a need for ankle-length rubber boots – then almost impossible to find – that came in a range of colours and were both comfortable and stylish. She called her company Merry People because “happy” was too ubiquitous a word, while “merry” reinforced her point of difference.

Despite her business tripling its growth since 2018, Holloway says she has stayed true to her small business ethos. During the COVID pandemic, which has coincided with periods of unrelenting rain in Australia, she wrote a note to every customer, saying, “I just wanted to personally thank you… it’s a very tough time for a lot of people right now so I really do appreciate you choosing to spend your money with our company.”

Although her business is primarily online, Holloway also sells in regional areas through like-minded stores. Merry People has never held sales or discounted its stock. Instead it offers to buy back the goods or exchange colours if her boots aren’t walking out the door. “A lot of brands sell to a retailer and a week later, they discount the product on their website, which means the retailer struggles to sell. I think a lot of retailers appreciate that we never do that.”

of Brisbane, the agency eschews city offices in favour of being visible and accessible to its target business sectors, such as landscapers and mining and agricultural suppliers.

… truly useful

A lot of businesses promise the world and digital agencies are often guilty of guaranteeing they can skyrocket a client’s

SEO rankings but Digilari Media distinguishes itself by coaching its clients on how to hone and express their point of difference and follows through with strong, consistent, on-brand messages.

... and noteworthy Digilari is known for attentiongrabbing communications with potential clients, such as sending a message-tagged

tree sapling to landscapers; an inspiring new business publication to accountants, with annotations or sticky notes at relevant passages; or a jar of M&Ms to emphasise “the maths and the magic” of digital performance analytics. “If you don’t have a point of difference,” says Brown, “people’s choices come down to price or convenience.”

STORY

*The prize must be utilised on the date of the Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Accelerate Drive Day. Subject to weather conditions, the Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Accelerate Drive Day will be held in 2023, at a date yet to be determined. You are required to have an Australian full driver’s licence, be a resident of Victoria, and agree to the deed form from MBAuP. For the avoidance of doubt, the Promoter is not responsible for, and the prize is not inclusive of, flights, transfer or accommodation in connection with attending the

Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Accelerate Drive Day. By entering into this competition, entrants agree to receive electronic marketing communications from Qantas magazine and/or its partners, subsidiaries and the Promoter

Qantas magazine and Travel Insider welcome you to Think. – a thought-leadership event in association with LSH Auto Australia. Hosted by Editor-in-Chief Kirsten Galliott, you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner with wine as Australia’s top business leaders tackle the night’s theme in a live panel discussion.

The panellists

Dale Connor, CEO, Lendlease Australia

The head of Lendlease’s Australian operations has spent more than 30 years working at the global real estate and investment group.

Vanessa Gavan, joint managing director, Maximus International

As founder of Maximus International, Gavan works closely with executive teams across industries, including Suncorp, Westpac and more.

Owen Wilson, CEO, REA Group

The head of leading digital property business REA regularly sees his organisation named on best workplaces lists.

Location Stokehouse, 30 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, Melbourne

Date and time Monday, 17 October 2022, at 6.30pm

Places are limited $200 per person, which includes a three-course menu with wine

Be there for your chance to WIN

Two tickets to the 2023 Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Accelerate Driving Event, with lunch included, at Sandown Racecourse*.

Reserve your seat before the event sells out. Book now at thinkbyqantasmagazine.eventbrite.com.au or enquire at rsvp@mediumrarecontent.com

The topic

What do the best companies look like in a postCOVID world, where the Great Resignation reigns?

Join the brightest minds in Australian business and enjoy an exclusive experience at one of Melbourne’s award-winning restaurants, Stokehouse, St Kilda Beach.

Unlocking the potential of creativity

Coffee husks are morphed into reusable cups, thanks to the innovations of Huskee, a homegrown business that has gone global.

As the founder of Sydney café Pablo & Rusty’s, Saxon Wright saw far too many unrecyclable takeaway cups headed for landfill every day.

At the same time, sourcing coffee beans opened his eyes to the enormous amount of unused by-product. “The more I thought about these problems, the more the two ideas merged,” he says. “Wouldn’t it be great if we could use waste from the coffee farms to solve the takeaway cup problem?”

Five years ago, he and Adrian Chen launched Huskee to make a reusable cup from naturally occurring coffee husks and recyclable polypropylene. “We raised over $100,000 [with the help of a Kickstarter campaign] and quickly realised there were opportunities globally.”

The entrepreneurs sourced the husk and manufactured the cups in China and launched almost simultaneously in Australia, the UK and

the US. It was a global company from the outset, which meant it needed a global financial partner. “The American Express® Qantas Business Rewards Card was one of our earliest tools,” says Wright. “Because it has no pre-set spending limit1 , we could pay suppliers $20,000 to $30,000 at a time. We had business travel expenses, manufacturing costs and IP registrations all over the world and the Card made looking after those international transactions easy.”

Businesses have up to 51 days to pay for purchases2 on the Card – with that extended time between purchase and payment acting as a buffer against unforeseen expenses and also freeing up cash flow for other costs. “And the fact we could earn Qantas Points 3 on purchases made it even more appealing.”

The company, which is growing at around 200 per cent per annum, now makes three million cups a year. Huskee has earned more

than 3.5 million Qantas Points through its American Express Qantas Business Rewards Card. By redeeming these Qantas Points for business flights to the coffee farm in China and to connect with major distributors around the world, Wright and Chen have been able to further fuel their business’s rapid expansion.

Another growth driver has been the HuskeeSwap program that allows customers to bring in their used cup and walk out with a fresh one. There are currently more than 1000 participating outlets in Australia, the US, Canada, the UK, France, Sweden and even the Maldives, with new enquiries coming in every day.

“Our goal is to eliminate single-use cups and the more we grow, the more impact we can have,” says Wright. “Businesses can do something really good in the world and be profitable. They’re not mutually exclusive.”

Unlock the possibilities for your business and access up to $1.5 million of unsecured funding across a 12-month period1 with the American Express Qantas Business Rewards Card. For more information, visit qantas.com/qbr/amex

statement is issued

Presented by

American Express

Earn 120,000 bonus Qantas Points*

with The American Express® Qantas Business Rewards Card

The Card that works for business. New look. More rewards.

American Express approval criteria applies. Subject to Terms and Conditions. Fees and charges apply. All information is correct as at 1 October 2022 and is subject to change. This offer is only available to those who reside in Australia. Cards are offered, issued and administered by American Express Australia Limited (ABN 92 108 952 085). ®Registered Trademark of American Express Company. *120,000 bonus Qantas Points: Offer only available to new American Express Card Members who apply by 2 November 2022, are approved and spend $3,000 on their new Card in the first two (2) months from the Card approval date. Card Members who currently hold or who have previously held any other Card product issued by American Express Australia Limited in the preceding 18 month period are ineligible for this offer. 120,000 Bonus Qantas Points will be awarded to the eligible Card Member’s Account 8-10 weeks after the spend criteria has been met. Subject to the American Express® Qantas Business Rewards Card Points Terms and Conditions. $450 annual fee applies. This advertised offer is not applicable or valid in conjunction with any other advertised or promotional offer.

*Apply by 2 November 2022 and spend $3,000 in first 2 months. Available to new Amex Card Members only.

Career Path

THERESE Mc CARTHY HOCKEY

INTERVIEW BY KIRSTEN GALLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY BY NIC WALKER

The head of banking for APRA –and Macquarie University Business School graduate – thrives on challenge and spends a lot of time trying to predict the next crisis.

Be ready for the next crisis

2019-present

Executive director of banking, Australian Prudential Regulation Authority (APRA)

“The onset of COVID – and the uncertainty that came with it – was like nothing I’d experienced in my career. It’s too late when a crisis hits. I think my experience here at the agency has emphasised the importance of good planning. Early preparation is essential – you have to pave the way and do the work in advance. No crisis is the same as another but there are common elements and it’s essential to learn from the past. I spend a lot of time thinking about improbable yet plausible scenarios – thinking forward and looking at worst-case scenarios. The environment remains very uncertain, with inflationary pressures, supply chain pressures, operational disruptions and geopolitical risks. No crisis will be what you plan it to be – stress testing and scenario building is only in your imagination – but the more you imagine, the more you think and are able to evolve and adjust. That’s the root of good crisis-response readiness.”

Find the purpose in your work

2018-2019

Executive general manager, strategy and chief risk officer, APRA

“In my shift from private sector to public, I was taken by the gravity of what we do. In our case, it’s to protect the financial wellbeing of the Australian community. What makes it rewarding in the public sector is the ability to focus on an outcome – that community outcome – without the bottom-line pressure that’s evident in the private sector. The lesson for me has been in what value purpose brings to galvanising an organisation. The mission permeates everything we do, from the type of people we recruit to the way in which we talk to our team and the way in which we think about the value of our work. When people ask me what’s it like to work in the public sector, I tell them they would be stunned by how high the quality of workers are. There are a lot of very learned, sharp individuals. People really want to be part of the mission.”

Form genuine relationships 2002-2010 Treasurer, Australia and New Zealand, Deutsche Bank

“I’ve had very little formal mentoring. There have been programs from time to time but they haven’t been as long-lasting as the relationships I’ve forged out of genuine working experiences. I’ve had sponsors along the way – you do accumulate those people, even though they may not know they’re actually mentoring you – and it can be quite irregular. They give you fresh eyes because they’re not there for every step of the journey. I don’t think I’m a natural networker. I’ve seen others who I would call professional networkers; you hear people saying, ‘Oh, they’re an amazing networker.’ I have fewer but deeper relationships where we touch base on where we’re at and any issues or worries we have. They’re relationships that have really built over time and have been born out of genuine respect and rapport.”

Avoid unhelpful distractions

2015-2017

Deputy group treasurer and chief operating officer, treasury, Deutsche Bank, London

“This was a challenging period. There were multiple CEO changes and each CEO came with organisational changes. There were those who were more aligned – or swearing more allegiance – to certain pockets of leadership but I always stayed the course on what was right for the organisation, which allowed me to not get caught up in any politics. I tried to focus on the commercial realities and not get distracted. I often say to the team, ‘Don’t be defined by your divisional boundary, your cost centre boundary – just think about the purpose.’ There were times when it was a little unsettling but I just had to stay the course because they needed good people who got things done, who were respectful of each other and who listened to priorities. It’s not about being blinkered; it’s about understanding what’s important.”

Never stop learning 1999-2002

Debt markets, Macquarie Bank

“This was a time I really invested in myself. You should never stop learning and you shouldn’t be afraid to explore things of interest to yourself – and it can be deliberate and career oriented, from AICD courses to international conferences. Macquarie really supported that learning approach. I started to develop a better sense of my own self and I began to understand what I needed to learn and what it was that I should invest in. I began to appreciate experts in a field and to get exposure to them. I rotated through different functions and I learnt how to code and how to trade particular derivatives. I didn’t know until then that that’s how you can develop quickly. I often say to people, ‘Rotate into something. You’re great here but go and spend three or six months there and then come back.’”

Don’t be afraid to ask questions

2011-2015

Chief operating officer, treasury and UK treasurer, Deutsche Bank, London

“By the time I got to the UK, the GFC was very extended and part of the role was taking on a board position of a regulated bank. I learnt the value of accountability – working in a huge financial centre through a time of stress was a real acceleration period in my career. I became far more thoughtful about risk. What are the downsides? And what does it mean for the longer-term strategy? They used to say I was always fearless at the board. I’m not really afraid of asking silly questions or going out on a limb to explore something I don’t fully understand. I’m not really swayed by the room going in one direction – I’m thinking, ‘I still haven’t got this bit so can you take me through it?’ It could be the core thing we need to contemplate. Fear is not one of my factors.”

Lean into tough times 1995-1999

Money markets, Bankers Trust

“This was my first role out of university and I joined the dealing room, which was a very demanding environment. I dealt with European and US time zones so we were quite often working through the night. At that time, Bankers Trust had significant financial and reputational setbacks, which meant I was on a huge learning curve and gained first-hand experience in what it meant to manage a distressed balance sheet and deal with pressures of liquidity. It set me up for today – tough times teach us the most valuable lessons so it was really formative.

You have to be able to withstand the exhausting, demanding environment – even when things aren’t going well. It’s one foot in front of the other. Just keep moving forward; you will find a way through.”

Sponsored by

STORY BY JANE NICHOLLS

ULUU

Need to know

Founders

Michael Kingsbury, 33, and Dr Julia Reisser, 38 (below)

First customer

An undisclosed outdoors brand, with products made from Uluu expected to be on sale in 2023

Investors

Creating a carbon-negative plastic replacement from sustainably farmed seaweed has myriad benefits – and income streams.

What is it? “We’ve developed a new material derived from the ocean that has the potential to replace plastic at scale,” says Michael Kingsbury, a former mergers and acquisitions lawyer. “We call it Uluu – it’s made of seaweed, is home-compostable and biodegradable and has very good oxygen and moisturebarrier properties so it can be used in ways other bioplastics can’t because they tend to be water-soluble.”

Where did the idea come from? “For the past decade or so, I’ve been obsessed about finding ways to solve plastic pollution, particularly when it comes to the problems it’s creating in our oceans,” says Dr Julia Reisser, a marine scientist who has worked for Andrew and Nicola Forrest’s Minderoo Foundation. “When I dug into it, I realised that recycling is important but it’s cleaning up the past. To solve the problem, we need to come up with a material that isn’t made of fossil fuels and

Main Sequence, Alberts, Possible Ventures, Startmate and more

Headquarters Perth

Employees 13 Market valuation Not disclosed

doesn’t create pollution during its production, use or after we dispose of it.” She began researching using seaweed to make polyhydroxyalkanoates, aka PHAs, a natural polymer. “Seaweed mitigates a lot of problems in the oceans and using farmed seaweed creates sustainable jobs in coastal communities, which helps us tackle overfishing.”

How did you get it off the ground? Reisser left her job and started looking for a co-founder. “I finally found Michael, who handles the finance, commercial and strategy side – a complementary skill set to mine.” In 2021, they raised $1.8 million of pre-seed funding, got a lab with the University of Western Australia’s support and set about the proof of concept. “We take seaweed and ferment it in saltwater, similar to brewing. Microbes digest the seaweed and turn it into PHAs. Some PHAs are long-chain polymers, some are short, some elastic, some rigid. What’s beautiful about PHAs is they can be as versatile as plastic.”

What have you learnt? In December last year, with the help of scientists at CSIRO Manufacturing, Uluu produced a set of transparent, flexible films and injection-moulded rigid discs. Reisser says it showed that the material can work with existing polymer-production equipment to ensure a cost-effective transition. It takes about 10 kilograms of seaweed to produce one kilogram of PHAs. The seaweed is milled and omega-rich oils can be extracted from it for an additional revenue stream. The leftover seaweed biomass is protein-rich and could become carbon-neutral fish feed, an environmental and economic win.

What’s next? Uluu is building a pilot plant in WA and hiring more scientists. “We need lots of engineering and R&D as we scale up,” says Reisser. In June, it won the inaugural KPMG Nature Positive Challenge. “The prize was $100,000 but we’re even more excited about the pro-bono advisory support. They’ll help us research sourcing seaweed because both the economics of our business and the social and environmental returns are closely correlated to how we do that.” Initially, Indonesia, where many seaweed farmers are women, will be the main source. And they’re working with brands to supply “Made with Uluu” products by late 2023.

uluu.com.au

Mastering fintech

Fintech is moving at a dizzying pace. A new graduate certificate empowers leaders to identify where the opportunities are – and to go after them.

“Finance is innovating all the time,” says Therese McCarthy Hockey, executive director of the banking division at the Australian Prudential Regulation Authority (APRA), whose many qualifications include a Master of Applied Finance from Macquarie University Business School (MQBS). “Being up to date – and investing in that knowledge – is key because it’s moving so fast. There has been transformational change.”

“There is so much going on in fintech right now that it’s hard to keep up,” agrees Lindesay Brine, director of the Postgraduate Applied Finance Program at MQBS. “It amounts to massive disruption that will change fundamental things, including the way businesses measure income and how they deal with cash and payments.”

To help leaders seize first-mover advantage, MQBS is introducing a new Graduate Certificate of Digital Finance in 2023. “We focus on fintech, especially innovation around payments, cryptocurrencies and blockchain,” says Brine.

“Everyone’s heard a lot about it but they probably haven’t heard a lot about central bank digital currencies, for example. That’s deep in the plumbing of the financial system, which is where all the exciting innovations happen.”

The new digital finance qualification doesn’t teach you how to be a “plumber” – rather, it provides you with a strong grasp of essential knowledge so you can better direct your team to tap into the flow of opportunities. “Many people become leaders based on their expertise in a specific discipline but may not be so comfortable with the technical aspects of finance,” says Professor Yvonne Breyer, deputy dean of education and employability at MQBS.

“That could mean that they miss seeing the opportunities offered by these emerging digital finance systems. The graduate certificate expands your knowledge of how digital innovations can give your business an edge.”

The primary units will be delivered online, with some hybrid classes. “That’s partly because it’s how people want to learn but also when you’re demonstrating how digital finance products work, obviously that’s all online,” says Brine.

Given the dynamic nature of fintech, the graduate certificate is cutting edge.

“We have industry practitioners leading the units. As it’s so fast-moving, students get access to the latest – we’ll bring in speakers who are in the midst of working on various aspects of fintech.”

Units from the certificate are embedded in the MQBS MBA and the Master of Applied Finance so the cohort will include students from across those courses, too. “It’s a valuable networking opportunity to learn with peers who are like-minded and who come from different organisations and industries, which is always enriching,” says Breyer.

It’s also about opening eyes – and ears – to this new world of finance. “You can’t ‘hear’ things that don’t make sense to you. Getting the most out of the experts around you makes you a good leader but you need to have your hearing tuned to understand it. This course will calibrate your hearing so you can pick up on the golden nuggets being offered to you by the experts around you because now you’ll understand their language.”

Learn more about Macquarie University Business School and the Graduate Certificate of Digital Finance at mq.edu.au

Presented by

Macquarie University Business School

Want bonus Qantas Points with your favourite

On board

Premiere movies, hit TV shows and absorbing audiobooks

Movies

Father of the Bride

If a movie is worth making, it’s worth making three times. At least that’s the idea behind this remake of the 1950 film starring Elizabeth Taylor that was remade starring Steve Martin in 1991. Andy Garcia plays Billy, the cantankerous father of the betrothed in this Latino version, with Gloria Estefan as his not-so-patient wife, Ingrid. Indeed, Ingrid and Billy are planning on filing for divorce when they find out their daughter is getting married. It’s an interesting way to up the ante beyond the old-fashioned chest-beating of the previous versions, making for a thoroughly modern movie. Rated PG

Elvis If you’re after a tender ballad about the poor boy from Mississippi who changed pop music, or even a linear narrative about the King, you’ve chosen the wrong movie. Baz Luhrmann, who co-wrote and directed this throbbing recreation, doesn’t do anything by halves – he doesn’t even do wholes.

Luhrmann doubles whatever colourful tribute you’ve been expecting, twirling every scene into a kaleidoscopic pastiche of camp synergy until the colours run dry.

To fully appreciate it, think of a turkey, stuffed with a chicken, wrapped in bacon. It’s excessive, sure. Purists would say it defies the laws of good taste. But is it delicious? You bet Colonel Tom Parker’s millions it is. It’s Parker, by the way, played by Tom

Hanks in facial prosthetics, who is portrayed as the villain here, exploiting Elvis to sell his soul for a tacky version of fame, made only more hollow by his misappropriation of music made by Black artists.

But whatever the movie may lack in its own soul, with Austin Butler (above) embodying the King in what will surely be an Oscar-nominated performance, Elvis the movie, the myth, the turkey stuffed with a chicken wrapped in bacon, transforms into finger-licking gourmet – and something approaching art. Rated M

Lightyear

Before he was an action figure, Buzz Lightyear was a space ranger whose mistake on a mission took him, if not to infinity, then at least beyond the current timeline. Those expecting a feel-good Toy Story prequel had best strap themselves in for a science-fiction drama. Buzz is voiced by Captain America ’s Chris Evans, which is apt considering the tone of this instalment is more reflective of recent Marvel Universe blockbusters, rather than a kid’s cartoon. Rated PG

Words by Natalie Reilly

There’s something for everyone in this selection of new films.

Where the Crawdads Sing

The 2018 novel by Delia Owens, about a girl named Kya living in the marshes of North Carolina in the 1960s while attempting to integrate herself into society, only to be accused of murder, is an evocative but straightforward story. And it would have done okay if not for the involvement of one woman: Reese Witherspoon, who selected it for her book club the year it was released, turning it into an immediate bestseller (12 million copies and counting). Witherspoon then co-produced the movie, making it a must-watch. Starring Normal People actress Daisy Edgar-Jones (right) as Kya, with an original song by Taylor Swift, Where the Crawdads Sing might be best enjoyed with a tall pitcher of lemonade or taken with a pinch of salt, depending on your taste. Rated M

The Black Phone Inspired by the horrific real-life story of serial killer John Wayne Gacy, who kidnapped and murdered teen boys in the 1960s and ’70s, The Black Phone manages to retell parts of that gruesome story with a supernatural redemption arc: the ghosts of murdered children – the serial killer’s previous victims – call on a black phone to help a 13-year-old boy, Finney (Mason Thames, left, with Madeleine McGraw), who is being held by the serial killer, to escape. Starring an unrecognisable Ethan Hawke in his first villainous role as the serial killer and magician known simply as The Grabber, the movie is based on a short story by Joe Hill (the son of Stephen King) and directed by Scott Derrickson (The Exorcism of Emily Rose). It manages to bring both terrifying darkness and horror to the screen, while still retaining hope and originality. Rated MA15+

Television

Whatever your mood, there’s a show to match.

Westworld

If you’re a Philip K. Dick fan – the genius behind Blade Runner and Total Recall – Westworld will speak your language. The series, now in its fourth season, about a “wild west” theme park where the über-rich can act out their cowboy fantasies with robots – and without consequences – takes things to new heights. Humans are revealed to be robots and then robots to be human, leaving the audience constantly guessing about what is real and what is merely a robot’s program. Starring Ed Harris, Evan Rachel Wood and Thandiwe Newton (above, with Aaron Paul). Rated MA15+

Irma Vep

Oscar-winning actress Alicia Vikander (below) plays an American movie star who travels to Paris for a role in a French film, only to find herself delving deeper into the complexities of the city, her co-stars and her own reality in this dark comedy based on the 1996 movie of the same name. Rated MA15+

Chivalry

Steve Coogan (The Trip) is a sexist producer working with a feminist director (Sarah Solemani). The pair (below) must overcome their differences – and odd romantic tension – to make a movie that the studio doesn’t care about. Rated M

Blood & Treasure

Melding the heart-thumping action of The Mummy with the wisecracks of Suits is no easy task but Blood & Treasure, about an antiquities expert who teams up with an art thief to recover ancient loot, manages to pull it off. Rated M

Edge of the Earth

A documentary about four thrillseekers undertaking crazy missions – from mountain climbing to high-speed skiing, to surfing waves as big as buildings – in order to live life to its fullest, while we live vicariously through them. Rated MA15+

Audiobooks

Tune into these compelling stories.

Charlie and the Karaoke Cockroaches

The latest hilarious chapter of the adventures of young Charlie and his best friend, Hils, from Australian comic Alan Brough, begins with an interrupted story. Then a mysterious box that speaks and sings. Add unusually unusual teachers, incredible lurking from the Lurker, an insect orchestra and a bungling burglar and it’s up to Charlie and Hils to save three innocent bugs from the forces of evil. Suitable for kids seven to 12.

Connect to Qantas

Free Wi-Fi and Entertainment App

When All is Said & Done

When he was diagnosed with motor neurone disease (MND) in 2013, former AFL player and manager Neale Daniher had two choices: give in to the incurable condition or create hope for other sufferers. Raised in a large family in regional NSW, Daniher had an illustrious career across three clubs. Post-diagnosis, he founded FightMND, which has raised millions for research into what he calls “The Beast”. Here, Daniher reflects on his life and how to make every day count.

Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps to access the internet and Qantas Entertainment App.

The Dressmaker’s Secret

In 1950s Melbourne, Tilly Dunnage is toiling away in a down-at-heel dress salon – but she has good reason to hide her talents. Back in her fictitious outback hometown, Dungatar, the locals are keen to find her after she left the main street in flames in an act of vengeance. In Rosalie Ham’s darkly comic sequel to The Dressmaker, which was made into a film starring Kate Winslet, Tilly must face the secrets of her past.

STEP 1

Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings.

STEP 2

Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect.

STEP 3

Once you’re connected, you’re now ready to access the internet and the Qantas Entertainment App.

News

Enjoy unlimited access to theaustralian.com.au, afr.com.au and themonthly.com.au when you are connected to Qantas Wi-Fi onboard and in Qantas lounges.

Having trouble connecting? Make sure you are connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start exploring. Qantas Entertainment App is not available on flights with seatback screens in all seats.

Inflight entertainment varies by route and aircraft.

Inflight workout

These exercises are designed to provide a safe way to stretch and enjoy movement in certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting. They may be effective at increasing the body’s blood circulation and massaging the muscles. We recommend you do these exercises for three or four minutes every hour and occasionally leave your seat to walk down the aisles. Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to other passengers. None of these exercises should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.

01

Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upwards as high as you can.

02

Put both feet flat on the floor. Lift heels high, keeping the balls of the feet on the floor.

03

Repeat these three stages in a continuous motion and at 30-second intervals.

Ankle circles

Lift feet. Draw a circle with toes, moving one foot clockwise and the other counterclockwise at the same time. Reverse circles. Rotate in each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Knee lifts

Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg.

Neck roll

With shoulders relaxed, drop your ear to your shoulder and gently roll your neck forward and back, holding each position for about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Knee to chest Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around the knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Forward flex

With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Shoulder roll

Hunch shoulders forwards then upwards, backwards and downwards in a gentle circular motion.

In the air

Mobile phones and electronic equipment: All transmitting electronic devices, including mobile phones, tablets and laptop computers, must be switched to flight mode* prior to departure. Smaller devices such as mobile phones, e-readers, electronic games, MP3 players, iPads and other small tablets may be held in your hands or stowed in a seat pocket. Unless otherwise directed by the captain, these devices may remain switched on and used in flight mode during take-off, cruise and landing. Larger electronic equipment such as laptop computers may only be used from when the aircraft seatbelt sign is extinguished after take-off until the top of descent. After landing, the cabin crew will advise when flight mode may be switched off.

Headsets: Do not use a personal single-pin audio headset in the Qantas inflight entertainment system unless it is supported by a two-pin airline headset adaptor. Personal headsets that connect via a cable

to a handheld device can be used at any time from boarding until arrival. Headsets and other devices that connect via Bluetooth must be switched off for take-off and landing but can be used during cruise.

*Flight mode enables you to operate basic functions of your mobile phone or personal electronic device while its transmitting function is switched off, meaning you cannot make phone calls or send an SMS.

Fly Well

Your wellbeing is our priority. Our Fly Well program brings together a number of measures to give you peace of mind during your flight.

Cabin air: Our aircraft air conditioning systems are fitted with hospital-grade HEPA filters, which remove 99.9% of all particles including viruses. The air inside the cabin is refreshed every few minutes, ensuring the highest possible air quality.

Inflight: The aircraft configuration, including the seats and galley, act as a natural barrier, and people are not seated face to face. The direction of inflight airflow is ceiling to floor.

Enhanced cleaning: Our aircraft are cleaned with a disinfectant effective against coronaviruses, with a focus on the high contact areas of seats, seatbelts, overhead lockers, air vents and toilets. Our people are trained in the latest hygiene protocols.

Face masks: Some destinations require you to wear a mask during your flight or at the airport. Ensure you check the latest government requirements before you travel. Your face mask needs to cover your mouth and nose, fit securely and must be worn unless you’re under 12 years of age or have a medical exemption.

Your inflight health: When flying, passengers can be seated and inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and the

Foot pumps (foot motion is in three stages)

cabin pressure equivalent to an altitude of 2440 metres above sea level. The following advice helps you stay healthy during your journey.

The importance of inflight blood circulation and muscle relaxation: When walking, the leg muscle action helps return venous blood to the heart. Sitting in the same position for a long period of time can slow this process and, in some people, leads to swelling in the feet. Some studies have shown that immobility associated with travel of longer than four hours (by air, car or rail) can also lead to an increased risk of deep vein thrombosis (DVT), or clotting in the legs. Personal factors that increase the risk of DVT include: Age over 40 years

Personal or family history of DVT or pulmonary embolus

Recent surgery or injury, especially to the lower limbs, pelvis or abdomen

Cancer

Inherited or other blood disorders leading to clotting tendency

Pregnancy

Oestrogen therapy (oral contraceptive pill or hormone replacement therapy).

There are a number of ways to help reduce the possibility of DVT, including the following: Avoid leg-crossing while seated

Ensure adequate hydration

Minimise alcohol and caffeine intake before and during your flight

Wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothes

During your flight, move your legs and feet for three to four minutes per hour while seated and move about the cabin occasionally

Do the light exercises we recommend here (see above) and through the inflight entertainment system.

If you have concerns about your health and flying, or you feel that you may be at risk of DVT, Qantas recommends that you talk to your doctor before travelling. Additional measures such as well-fitted compression stockings or anti-clotting medication may be recommended for high-risk individuals.

Jet lag: Unlike other forms of transport, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, which can disrupt the body’s biological clock. This is commonly known as jet lag. This disruption can affect various body rhythms such as the sleepwake cycle and the digestive system, leading to symptoms such as tiredness and lack of energy and appetite. In general, the more time zones crossed, the more disruption of the body clock and the more symptoms experienced after the journey. We recommend the following to minimise the effects of jet lag.

Before your flight:

Get a good night’s rest

During your flight:

Eat light meals

Wear loose, comfortable clothing and sleep when you can

Stay hydrated – drink plenty of water and avoid excess tea, coffee and alcohol

At your destination:

If possible, give yourself a day or two after arrival to adjust to the new time zone

Go out in the daylight and do some light exercise Try to eat meals and do other social activities at appropriate destination times to adjust to the new time zone

Cabin humidity and hydration: Humidity levels of less than 25 per cent are common in the cabin, as the outside air that supplies the cabin is very dry.

The low humidity can cause drying of the surfaces of the nose, throat and eyes and it can irritate contact lenses. If normal fluid intake is maintained during the flight, dehydration will not occur. We recommend:

Drink water and juices frequently during the flight

Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation

Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your eyes are irritated

Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin

Cabin pressurisation: During flight, aircraft cabin pressure is maintained to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. As the aircraft climbs, the cabin may reach the same air pressure as at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level.

Cabin pressure does not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you suffer from obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experience discomfort at these altitudes. These passengers should seek medical advice before flying, as some may require supplementary oxygen.

Qantas can arrange this but requires at least seven days’ notice before travelling. The rate of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent is also carefully maintained and does not usually cause discomfort. However, children and infants, and adults who have sinus or nasal congestion, may experience some discomfort because of pressure changes during climb and particularly descent.

Those suffering from nasal or sinus congestion because of a cold or allergies may need to delay travel. The following advice may assist:

To “clear” your ears, try swallowing, yawning or pinching your nose closed and gently blowing against it. These actions help open the Eustachian tubes, equalising pressure between the middle ear chamber and throat.

If flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing help equalise pressure in an infant’s ears. Give children something to drink or chew during descent.

Consider using medication such as nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages.

Motion sickness: Air travel, especially if turbulence is experienced, can cause motion sickness, as it leads to a conflict between the body’s sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Maintaining good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on a non-moving object) helps prevent motion sickness.

When the weather is clear, you should look out at the ground, sea or horizon. If the horizon can’t be seen, closing your eyes and keeping your head movements to a minimum will help. While over-thecounter medications are available, we recommend

you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications. More information can be found:

At qantas.com.au/info/flying/intheair/ yourhealthinflight

Through the onboard entertainment system

On our information leaflet available from Qantas or your travel agent

Smoking: Government regulations prohibit smoking on all flights operated by Australian-registered aircraft. The use and charging of all e-cigarettes and other personal vaporisers are not permitted on board an aircraft. There are smoke detectors in all toilets and penalties for regulation breaches.

Travelling with children: Please ask cabin crew for help if required. Baby food and nappies (diapers) are available on most flights, while some washrooms are fitted with baby change tables. Please dispose of nappies etc. in the waste bins.

When you land

Leaving flights: On international flights, the cabin crew will distribute the necessary Customs and Immigration forms. If you are stopping en route, you will need your boarding pass to re-board the aircraft. If you’re travelling as a domestic passenger on an international flight within Australia, retain your boarding card with the large D sticker. This will be required to clear Customs at your destination.

Transferring from Australian domestic flights numbered QF400 and above to international flights: At check-in you will be issued with your international boarding pass. Your international boarding pass and baggage will be tagged through to your final destination. There is no need to claim your baggage or attend check-in at the transfer airport. Follow the signs for international transfers passengers to the complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne and Darwin).

Transferring from international to domestic flights numbered QF400 and above: On arrival at your Australian transfer port, go through Immigration and collect your luggage. Proceed through Customs and follow the signs to the domestic transfer area to re-check your luggage. A complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne, Adelaide and Darwin) departs at regular intervals for the domestic terminal for your connecting Qantas flight within Australia. If your connecting domestic flight is numbered QF1-QF399, there is no need to clear Customs and Immigration. These flights depart from the international terminals. Customs and Immigration clearance will be completed at your final destination.

Transferring to a Jetstar domestic flight: If your next flight is with Jetstar (JQ) or a Qantas codeshare flight operated by Jetstar (QF5400-QF5999), you will need to collect your baggage and follow the signs to the Jetstar counter to check in for your flight and re-check your baggage.

Qantas security policy

The Qantas Group has a strict policy of denying boarding, or offloading any passenger who makes inappropriate comments or behaves inappropriately inflight or on the ground. Qantas will not accept any inappropriate comments as “jokes”. It will also seek to recover all costs incurred, including diversions as a result of security incidents, from those involved.

international gateway airport, duty-free powders and LAGs must be sealed, with receipt, in a security tamper-evident bag issued at the time of purchase

Full-body scanners

The Australian federal government has introduced full-body scanners at international gateway airports: Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast

Group-wide security

Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation. The Qantas Group ensures that its passengers, staff and aircraft are safe and secure through an outcome-focused, risk-based approach to security management. Qantas security standards apply across the business, including QantasLink and Jetstar.

A dedicated operations centre monitors global security events 24 hours a day.

Security advice

Pack your own luggage

Do not carry any items for another person Carry valuables, approved medication and keys in your carry-on baggage

All knives, sharp objects or cutting implements must be in checked baggage

Security measures can include random frisk search after consent is obtained. Passengers may request privacy and must be searched by a screener of the same gender

Important note: Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation.

Restrictions on powders and liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGs)

On all international flights to and from Australia: Each container of LAGs in your carry-on baggage must be 100ml or less

All 100ml containers must be placed in a single transparent one-litre plastic bag Plastic bags containing LAGs are to be screened separately from other carry-on baggage

All powders must be screened separately with restrictions on the carriage of inorganic powders over 350ml (350g)

Passengers may still carry prescription medicines or baby products sufficient for the flight

If departing, transiting or transferring on an international flight at an Australian

The Australian Federal Government has commenced introducing full-body scanners at major domestic airports: Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Canberra, Darwin, Gold Coast, Hobart, Launceston, Melbourne, Newcastle, Perth, Sunshine Coast, Sydney and Townsville

At international gateway airports passengers refusing to pass through the scanner will be banned from entering the sterile area or boarding an aircraft for 24 hours

Exemptions apply for people with serious medical conditions, infants and small children, and people in wheelchairs

As per advice, the energy exposure is comparable to that from a mobile phone several metres away

There are no known safety concerns for people with pacemakers and metal implants or for pregnant women

Dangerous goods

Common items used every day may seem harmless but on an aircraft they may become dangerous. When the aircraft changes altitude, variations in temperature and pressure may cause items to leak, create fumes or catch fire.

Items that are forbidden on aircraft or have carriage restrictions include lithium batteries, other battery types, camping stoves, fuels, oils, compressed gases, aerosols, household cleaners, matches, lighters, paints, explosives (including flares, fireworks, sparklers and bonbons), emergency position-indicating radio beacons, radioactive material, biological and infectious substances and fuel-powered equipment. This list is not exhaustive so please carefully consider what items you pack for your next flight.

If you’re unsure about an item in your baggage, ask a member of our friendly cabin crew.

For further information, go to qantas.com or email dg@qantas.com.au.

Travel advice

Qantas is a partner in the Australian government’s Charter for Safe Travel. Travellers may obtain the latest travel advice for their destination by visiting smartraveller.gov.au.

Automated immigration clearance

Several countries are introducing automated immigration clearance procedures to cope with growing air-travel numbers. The goal is to provide a faster, smoother immigration experience to eligible passengers without compromising border security. Please note that some automated clearance options may not be available due to COVID.

Countries providing facilities across our network:

Australia SmartGate: e-passport holders of Australia, Canada, China, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Korea, Macau, New Zealand, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, UK and US

China e-Channel: citizens of China

Hong Kong e-Channel Residents: citizens and residents of Hong Kong

Hong Kong e-Channel Visitors: frequent visitors that are visa-exempt, including Australians

Indonesia Autogate passport gates: citizens of Indonesia

Japan Speedy Immigration: citizens and foreign nationals with re-entry and special re-entry permits

New Zealand SmartGate Plus: e-passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, UK and US

Singapore enhanced-Immigration Automated Clearance System (eIACS): citizens, permanent residents, work permit holders and APEC cardholders

UAE eGate: UAE citizens and residents

UK ePassport gates: e-passport holders of UK, Switzerland and European Economic Area (EEA)

USA Global Entry system: US citizens and permanent residents, Dutch citizens, South Korean citizens and Mexican nationals. Canadian citizens and residents with NEXUS membership

USA Automated Passport Control: for US, Canadian and Visa Waiver Program passport holders

Fee applies

Pre-enrolment required

What you need to know about your onboard security, safety and health

Quick clues

Across

10. Pavilions for outdoor musical entertainment (10)

Busiest part of day for commuters (4,4)

Condiment served with fish (7,5)

Festering (6)

Artwork for outside of novel (5,6)

Captivate (7)

Gist (7)

Nine-to-five coaching clinic (8,3)

The D of COD (8)

Signal to proceed (3,5)

Low-key (11)

Submissive person (7)

Poetic term for field (3)

Colouring solution (3)

Clairvoyance (6,5)

Honeymoon room, ... suite (6)

Not effectively expressed (12)

Shocking (8)

Scourge (10)

Cryptic clues

Down

Hurdle (8)

Etches (8)

Thailand and Korea are there (4)

Unassisted human sight (5,3)

Dreamers (9)

Junior Scout (3)

Sandal or boot (4)

River-crossing for hikers (10)

Wall builder (10)

Event causing public outcry (7)

Edible part of almond (6)

Renewed (9)

Determined (9)

Prosecute (3)

Mattresses for couples (6,4)

Spitting images (10)

Disturbed (6)

Lord Byron’s mathematician daughter, ... Lovelace (3)

Failing to hit (7)

Welcome VIP, roll out the ... (3,6)

Tooth-care specialists (8)

Acute pain in the head (8)

Secured with rope (8)

Helper (4)

Repulsive (4)

Unopened blossom (3)

Across

10. Orchestra gets to feet on hearing where their performances are to take place (10)

11. Hurry! 60 Minutes is on at peak time (4,4)

13. Confused rat ate saucer of flavoured mayonnaise (7,5)

14. Infected saint shuns antiseptics (6)

16. Conceal pattern for book jacket layout (5,6)

18. Eleventh rally will hold you spellbound (7)

20. Inherent nature of vanilla concentrate (7)

22. Twenty-four hours of instruction on rail travel? (8,3)

23. Parcel drop-off, in a manner of speaking (8)

26. Does everyone understand? Danger’s over! (3,5)

30. Nervous, but I might be seen as preferring not to attract attention (11)

31. One who doesn’t normally protest found lying at entrance (7)

34. Meadow seems to be mostly bleak (3)

35. Application to change locks? (3)

36. ESP might provide another glimpse (6,5)

37. Bridle, say, associated with getting hitched (6) 39. Italian truce sorted out despite having trouble finding the right words (12)

42. Defraud about fifty? That’s appalling! (8)

43. Awful silence, pet! It’s a plague! (10)

Down

1. It gets in the way of able Scot perhaps (8)

2. Inscribes two points on tombs (8)

3. Continent is back in abstinence support group briefly (4)

4. No specs? What vision! (5,3) 5. They’re just not practical (9) 6. Bear young (3)

7. He so needs to vary footwear! (4) 8. Twelve inch spanner used to build pedestrian overpass (10) 9. Tradesman or hen behind masonry block? (10) 12. Lads can stir up outrage (7)

Colonel said to be a bit of a nut (6)

17. Restored eggs found in rented premises (9)

Persistent ten have a hundred promissory notes (9)

Take to court for wrong use (3)

Not the place for singles to sleep (6,4)

Look! American capital likes people who are very similar in appearance (10)

25. Woke up Rod about employment (6)

She’s a US lawyer (3)

Stupid signs! I’m lost! (7)

Underfoot at gala premieres (3,6)

31. Chopper experts? (8)

32. My grain reportedly causes terrible headache (8)

Tied up French and returned the ruby (8)

Assistant initially doing errands (4)

40. Unattractive guy involved with learner (4)

Get off budget and buy an artichoke for example (3)

Tough puzzle, simple rules: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the numbers 1-9.

Wheel of words

Create as many words of four letters or more as you can using the given letters once only but always including the central letter. Don’t use proper nouns or plurals ending with “s”. See if you can find the nine-letter word using all letters.

6 Good 8 Very good 10+ Excellent

Easy

Moderate Hard

I

Match-ups –Love songs

Work out the missing parts of these romantic song names then find them hidden in the box of letters. The letters left over will spell out the name of one more popular ballad and the singer of a classic rendition.

A KIND OF LOVE

ALL YOU IS LOVE BRIDGE TO YOUR CRAZY CALLED LOVE HOW IS YOUR LOVE (I CAN’T HELP) IN LOVE WITH YOU

I CAN’T STOP YOU

I JUST TO SAY I LOVE YOU

I’LL LOVE TO YOU I LOVE YOU ALWAYS I I LOVE YOU

I WANNA DANCE WITH (WHO LOVES ME)

I KNOW WHAT LOVE IS I WILL LOVE YOU LOVE DON’T A THING LOVE IS ALL

LOVE IN THE SAND

LOVE TIME

LOVE WILL KEEP US PART-TIME SILLY LOVE STOP! IN THE OF LOVE THAT’S LOVE GOES THE GREATEST LOVE THIS IN LOVE WITH YOU TO IS TO LOVE HIM TO WITH LOVE UNCHAINED WE LOVE WHAT’S LOVE GOT WITH IT WHY DO FALL IN LOVE YOU CAN’T LOVE YOU’VE LOST THAT LOVIN’

More puzzles over the page; solutions on

L E E F A L L I N G T

A N T T O C O S T H A

A K E A E R S V E E N

S N L K R E W E A A

A O I E E A

M R L R U E V T T H Y S E E T W G N I H T E L T T I L R A S N L E T S O M E B O D Y

L M A E F O U N D E S

A E J T G T T A Y L L

M

H W O N K T L O

T S L A O

A

O

N D C

Quiz

By Hazel Flynn

Spot the difference

Can you spot the seven differences between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

01. What 1978 movie was retitled Vaselina in Mexico?

02. Which country’s former prime ministers include Robert Muldoon and Helen Clark?

03. What is the world’s tallest building?

04. And to within 50 metres, how tall is it?

05. In humans, who has more bones, a baby or an adult?

06. What creature appears on the flags of Bhutan and Wales?

07. Naga Viper and Carolina Reaper are among the world’s hottest what?

08. What city is scheduled to host the 2032 Olympic Games?

09. What song begins, Now I’ve heard there was a secret chord ?

10. Hanbok is traditional clothing from what country?

11 What year saw the fall of the Berlin Wall and Taylor Swift’s birth?

12 What country has announced Nusantara will become its new capital?

13. Which Australian golfer won The Open Championship in July 2022?

14 And in what sport did a player with the same name captain Australia’s national team?

15 What is the French word for “chief”?

16 What plant extract gives tonic water its bitter taste?

17 What kind of car became a time machine in Back to the Future?

18 What is Afghanistan’s second-largest city?

19 What is Australia’s national gemstone?

20. K is the chemical symbol for what element?

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Solutions

If you’ve filled in the answers, please take the magazine with you so the cabin crew know to replace it with a new copy.

Crossword

Sudoku Easy Moderate

Match-ups

Hard

1 2

4

1

5 9 9 7 4 8 5 3 6 1 2 8 1 5 6 2 9 3 4 7 5 4 9 7 3 6 1 2 8 3 6 7 1 8 2 5 9 4 1 2 8 5 9 4 7 3 6 7 3 2 6 1 9 8 5 4 6 9 8 3 4 5 7 1 2 1 4 5 2 7 8 6 3 9 4 5 9 7 6 1 3 2 8 8 2 6 4 5 3 9 7 1 3 7 1 9 8 2 4 6 5 2 8 4 1 3 7 5 9 6 5 1 7 8 9 6 2 4 3 9 6 3 5 2 4 1 8 7

1 2

A Groovy Kind Of Love All You Need Is Love Bridge To Your Heart, Crazy Little Thing Called Love How Deep Is Your Love (I Can’t Help)

Falling In Love With You, I Can’t Stop Loving You,

I Just Called To Say I Love You I’ll Make Love To You, I Love You Always Forever, I Think I Love You, I Wanna Dance With Somebody (Who Loves Me)

2

Wheel of words

Pave,

Civet,

I Want To Know What Love Is, I Will Always Love You, Love Don’t Cost A Thing , Love Is All Around, Love Letters In The Sand, Love Takes Time, Love Will Keep Us Together, Part-Time Lover, Silly Love Songs, Stop! In The Name Of Love, That’s The Way Love Goes, The Greatest Love Of All, This Guy’s In Love With You, To Know Him Is To Love Him, To Sir With Love, Unchained Melody, We Found Love What’s Love Got To Do With It Why Do Fools Fall In Love, You Can’t Hurry Love, You’ve Lost That Lovin’ Feelin’ Solution: At Last, Etta James

Spot the difference

01. Seat at front turned pink

02. Window on left wall removed

03. Tower in background is larger

04. Blue door on back wall is taller

05. Chair added to table on right

06. Flowers added to vine on right

07. Fence on right removed

Quiz

01. Grease 02. New Zealand 03. Burj Khalifa (in Dubai) 04. 828 metres 05. Baby (approximately 270 vs 206) 06. A dragon 07. Chilli peppers 08. Brisbane 09. Hallelujah by Leonard Cohen 10. Korea 11. 1989 12. Indonesia 13. Cameron Smith 14. Rugby League 15. Chef 16. Quinine 17. DeLorean 18. Kandahar 19. Opal 20. Potassium

Lachlan Dodds Watson (Parrtjima)

N I L E E F A L L I N G T Y W A N T T O C O S T H A V M A K E A E R S V E E N O R I S N L K R E W E A A O R Y A O I E E A V M R L R U E V T T H Y S E E T W G N I H T E L T T I L R A S N L E T S O M E B O D Y G E L M A E F O U N D E S N E A E J T G T T A Y L L O D F M I H W O N K T L O S S O D E E P D T S L A O Y R R U H A R O U N D C F

S D E B E L B U O D E L C A T S B O R R E N E U S O A A S E K I L A K O O L S E V A R G N E A D B I E E T D E D I A D E T A V O N E R A I S A F L Y R E C D

IWC TOP GUN.

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