KNOW 10 EPIC MOMENTS TO HAVE IN SEOUL INNOVATE HOW WELLNESS IS CHANGING THE OFFICE SPECIAL THE HOME OF THE FUTURE LOOKS LIKE TRAVELTHIS...INSIDERACT LIKE A KID IN PARIS SLEEP IN A CUBE IN A FOREST FIND SUN... AND SNOW IN HAWAII GO ROAD-TRIPPINGINNAMIBIA I RNSPIRATIONFOYOUR JTXENOURNEYMAGAZINEYOURTOKEEP Tuileries Garden, Paris BET T E R T H A N E V ER
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CONTENTS 8068 52 The Dish: Peking duck 54 Local Heroes: Barossa Valley 56 Wine List: New-wave chardonnay 44 On The Menu: Native ingredients 48 The Crowd-pleaser: Kingfish sashimi at Chin Chin 50 Best Of... Port Douglas KnowDine 68 Go big Volcanoes, manta rays and snow –expect the unexpected in Hawaii 74 French lessons How to get the most out of Paris for you and your kids 80 Rock the boat Check in to one of these unique stays, from a mirrorcube to a desert oasis Discover SEPTEMBER 2022 21 The people, places and pop culture to put on your radar 36 Spotlight on Seoul: an insider’s guide to the South Korean capital 92 Road less travelled Take the wheel for a 4WD adventure in the wilderness of Namibia 100 Double take Revisit two popular getaways that have had super-cool upgrades 108 Urban jungle Hit the walking trail that reveals a surprising side of Singapore
For more travel inspiration, go to qantas.com/travelinsider CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2022 On board 161 Inflight entertainment 166 Health, safety and security on board and when you land 170 Games 142 Working Towards Wellness: How mental health has moved to the top of the corporate agenda 149 View From The Top: Alexis George, CEO, AMP 152 Small Business: Smart recruitment and staff retention strategies to avoid skill shortages 154 Career Path: Steve Cox, CEO, Destination NSW 156 Upstart: Neo-Bionica 158 Clock Wise: Kristo Käärmann, CEO, Wise 131 Our special report on the 10 most innovative ideas in domestic architecture, from construction to interiorsHomeInnovateTruths Design 116 On The Inside: Casa Olivetta, Puglia, Italy 118 Creative Process: Tony Albert 120 CentralFoundations:Park, New York 122 The AlessiStatement:kettle9091 124 The Men’sLook:and women’s fashion 128 The StringClassic:ofpearls 131 142
Qantas magazine is published for Qantas Airways Ltd (ABN 16 009 661 901) by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Level 1, 83 Bowman Street, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2022. All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Qantas Airways Ltd or Medium Rare Content Agency. ISSN 1443-2013. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, please visit mediumrarecontent.com. Managing Director Nick Smith Chief Commercial Officer Fiorella Di Santo Head of Content, Travel Kirsten Galliott Digital Director Karla Courtney Head of Multimedia Aidan Corrigan Head of Audience Intelligence Catherine Ross Financial Controller Leslie To Finance Manager Yane Chak Junior Accountant Yongjia Zhou International Representatives Greater China and Japan Peter Jeffery +852 2850 peterjeffery@asianimedia.com4013 South-East Asia and the UK Nick Lockwood +65 9776 pharpartnerships.comnick.lockwood@6255 United States Ralph Lockwood +1 408 879 husonmedia.comralph.lockwood@6666 Editorial Editor-in-Chief Kirsten Galliott For editorial inquiries, contact: qantaseditorial@mediumrarecontent.com Creative Director Tony Rice Senior Designer Kate Timms Visual Director Elizabeth Hachem Copy Director Rosemary Bruce Deputy Copy Director Sandra Bridekirk Copy Editors Pippa Duffy Nick Hadley Production Manager Chrissy Fragkakis Content Director Jessica Irvine Deputy Content Director Faith Campbell Content Manager Natalie Reilly Digital and OperationsContentLead Hana Jo Online Editor Christina Rae Managing Editor, Qantas Hotels Bridget de Maine Digital Producer Anneliese Beard Advertising Head of Sales, Travel Tony Trovato +61 404 093 472 NSW Sales Manager Callum Bean +61 404 729 224 National Advertising Manager, Business & Travel Isabella Severino +61 459 999 715 Qld, WA and SA Sales Manager Elliott Barsby +61 450 122 236 For advertising inquiries, contact: qantasadvertising@mediumrarecontent.comHeadofSales,Victoria Chris Joy +61 406 397 715 Senior Manager,AccountVictoria Miranda Adofaci +61 410 387 707 Digital Sales Director Mike Hanna +61 402 640 095 Digital Campaign Manager and Product Specialist Anna Delgado +61 404 855 041 Rare Creative Strategy and Partnerships Head of Rare Creative Paulette Parisi Content and Partnerships Editor Mark Brandon Content and Partnerships Managing Editor Tracey Withers Branded Content Senior Editor Natalie Babic Branded Content Editor Meghan Loneragan Art Director Philippa Moffitt Designer Sophia Lau Strategy and Insights Director Jane Schofield Strategy Manager Daniela Brito Qantas Group Partnerships Manager Sarah Campbell Qantas Campaign Manager Alana Baird Qantas Campaign Manager Emily Ryan Content and Events Campaign Manager Jessica Manson For Rare Creative inquiries, contact: rarecreative@mediumrarecontent.com
Our writers are not armchair travellers. Even in a pandemic. Rest assured any assistance we accept from the travel industry in the course of preparing our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.
Kirsten Editor-in-ChiefGalliott
There’s something about revisiting places from our past and experiencing them anew. And therein lies the challenge. How to tap into our nostalgia for bygone holidays but give our senses a hit of novelty? In this issue, we’re uncovering the different sides of destinations we know and love, whether it’s a road trip in Africa or a completely fresh way to see Singapore, an under-the-radar island in Hawaii or the kids’ view of Paris. Every holiday needs an element of surprise. I hope you find yours. Have a great month.
AUSTRALIAEST·1972 (08) 9382 4077 LINNEYS.COM.AU
FROM THE EDITOR
In another life, I edited a fashion magazine and one of the “requirements” of that job was travelling to Milan, Paris and New York for their respective fashion weeks. I’d been to all three cities before – although Milan was just a fleeting visit – but going as part of the fashion pack? That was something altogether different. I got a unique and, yes, OTT view of three classic destinations. There was the drinks party at Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s Milano apartment, which was a riot of colour and as whimsical as their glorious designs. The afternoon tea with Michael Kors followed by his super-luxe show at Spring Studios, New York, where I sat opposite actors Kate Hudson and Allison Williams. The post-show dinners in Paris at restaurants both glamorous (The Peninsula’s Lili) and traditional (Alain Ducasse’s Allard), all heaving with the best-dressed people you’ve ever seen. It was a window into another world; a kaleidoscopic trip I will never have again. And it all felt surprising and new. As we indulge in international travel again, many Australians are heading back to places they love. Paris. Rome. London. New York. And Hawaii, Fiji, New Zealand and Africa.
kirstengalliott
SlaterKelly–FitzgibbonsSally–GilmoreStephanie
Alan Joyce CEO, Qantas qantas.com Qantas Reservations 13 13 13 Qantas Club and Frequent Flyer Service Centre 13 11 31 From overseas +61 3 9658 5302 Qantas Holidays Ltd 13 14 15 (ABN 24 003 836 459; Licence No. 2TA003004) FROM THE CEO
To help more of our Frequent Flyers take their dream trip, recently we’ve made thousands more Classic Reward seats available in premium cabins. And if you had to postpone a trip during the pandemic, remember you can put your credit towards your next Thanksflight.forchoosing Qantas.
And our flights to Seoul launch in December, well-timed to see family in the South Korean capital for Christmas or to plan a cherry blossom pilgrimage (above) next April.
Australians’ desire to reconnect with friends and family and make up for lost travel time shows no signs of slowing since the world reopened.
We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the land on which we work, live and fly. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and are committed to honouring Australian Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples’ unique cultural and spiritual relationship to the land and water.
It’s been fantastic to see so many people flying again but it hasn’t been without its challenges. Airlines around the world, including Qantas, have been dealing with a difficult restart. There’s a lot of good reasons why but the bottom line is that our service hasn’t been up to the standard our customers are used to and that we expect of ourselves. For that, we apologise. We’ve put in place a number of changes over the past few months to ensure that we get back to our best and by the time you read this, we should have seen a steady improvement.
Take off to more international destinations Fly Qantas on the inaugural route to the southern Indian city of Bengaluru (Bangalore) from 14 September. Direct Qantas flights to Chile’s capital, Santiago, are back in October.
If you’ve flown overseas recently you’ll know that flights are extremely busy and it can be difficult to get the exact flight you want. The key driver for this is that international capacity remains well below what it was prior to COVID, as airlines work to bring back aircraft and people. Qantas is adding flights as we get more aircraft. We now have five A380s back from storage and another five to go. We’re awaiting three more Dreamliners from Boeing and we expect to be close to our pre-COVID levels of international capacity by the middle of next year. We’ve been adding one overseas destination every two weeks since late last year, with flights now resuming to most of our pre-COVID destinations as well as some new ones. This month we’ll be restarting flights to Tokyo and begin flying a brand-new route from Sydney to Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), the first direct connection between Australia and southern India.
Connect to Qantas Fast and Free Wi-Fi Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps: Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings. Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to Onceconnect.you’reconnected, you’re ready to access the internet and start exploring. Having trouble connecting? Make sure you’re connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start the connection process. To ensure an enjoyable flight for everyone, keep flight mode activated, switch your device to silent and refrain from voice and video calls.
Mercedes-Benz Sydney | Mercedes-Benz Melbourne | Mercedes-Benz Brisbane | AMG Sydney | Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Airport Li Cunxin AO Artistic Director, Queensland Ballet and LSH Auto Australia Ambassador A passion for excellence is what drives us. “The devotion to excellence is how one earns a trusted reputation. Which is why I’m honoured to partner with a company that shares my passion for performance. LSH Auto Australia is dedicated to building trust by delivering your premium motoring needs while striving to provide an exceptional customer experience, every time.” YOU COME FIRST. ALWAYS. www.lshauto.com.au
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In association with your seat before the event sells out. Book now at at
Dale Connor, CEO, Lendlease Australia
The head of Lendlease’s Australian operations has spent more than 30 years working at the global real estate and investment group. Vanessa Gavan, joint managing director, Maximus International As founder of Maximus International, Gavan works closely with executive teams across industries, including Suncorp, Westpac and more. Owen Wilson, CEO, REA Group
Location Stokehouse, 30 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, Melbourne
The head of leading digital property business REA regularly sees his organisation named on best workplaces lists.
EXCLUSIVE READER DINNER EVENT anhavetorequiredareYoudetermined.betoyetdateaat2023,inheldbewillDayDriveAccelerateMelbourneMercedes-Benztheconditions,weathertoSubjectDay.DriveAccelerateMelbourneMercedes-Benztheofdatetheonutilisedbemustprize*TheAustralianfulldriver’slicence,bearesidentofVictoria,andagreetothedeedformfromMBAuP.Fortheavoidanceofdoubt,thePromoterisnotresponsiblefor,andtheprizeisnotinclusiveof,flights,transferoraccommodationinconnectionwithattendingtheMercedes-BenzMelbourneAccelerateDriveDay.Byenteringintothiscompetition,entrantsagreetoreceiveelectronicmarketingcommunicationsfromQantasmagazineand/oritspartners,subsidiariesandthePromoter
The panellists Qantas magazine and Travel Insider welcome you to Think. – a thought-leadership event in association with LSH Auto Australia. Hosted by Editor-in-Chief Kirsten Galliott, you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner with wine as Australia’s top business leaders tackle the night’s theme in a live panel discussion.
Date and time Monday, 17 October 2022, at 6.30pm Places are limited $200 per person, which includes a three-course menu with wine Be there for your chance to WIN Two tickets to the 2023 Mercedes-Benz Melbourne Accelerate Driving Event, with lunch included, at Sandown Racecourse*.
thinkbyqantasmagazine.eventbrite.com.au or enquire
The topic What do the best companies look like in a postCOVID world, where the reigns?ResignationGreat Join the brightest minds in Australian business and enjoy an exclusive experience at one of Melbourne’s award-winning restaurants, Stokehouse, St Kilda Beach.
Our rugs lie lightly on this earth. ARMADILLO-CO.COM
22 New dining from Australia’s best chefs 28 At home with Archibald winner Blak Douglas 36 What to see, do and eat in South Korea’s capitalCruzDelaJet Women in traditional hanbok dress, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul
It’s a season of fresh starts for some of the country’s best chefs, with new offerings from Firedoor’s Lennox Hastie, Anchovy’s Thi Le and more. Take a seat VIC Jeow Thi Le made a name for herself as Melbourne’s maestro of modern Vietnamese cooking with the legendary Anchovy. That restaurant is currently on pause and in its place is Jeow (jeow.net.au) in Richmond, serving fresh, à la carte Laotian cuisine that references the suburban cooking Le loved as a child. Standout dishes include aromatic duck larb, rich beef stew and sakoo yat sai, a tapioca dumpling filled with peanut and Jerusalem artichoke.
Restaurants
22 KNOW qantas.com/travelinsider
STORY BY ALEXANDRA CARLTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY NIKKI TO
QLD Exhibition Ex-Joy chef Tim Scott has built his own dream restaurant, the 24-seat Exhibition (exhibitionrestaurant.com) in the Brisbane CBD, designing everything from the ceramics to the playlist. Guests can choose from two produce-driven set menus or sit at the bar for drinks and snacks such as oysters, caviar and cured meats. It’s an intimate space with an open kitchen designed to transport you fully into Scott’s culinary world.
NSW Gildas “Gildas is about an olive stone’s throw away from Firedoor,” says Lennox Hastie (above) of his new Basque-inflected wine and tapas bar in Sydney’s Surry Hills (gildas.com.au). The chef has olives on his mind because he’s been taste-testing hundreds to find the perfect one to feature in the gildas from which the venue takes its name. A gilda is the quintessential Basque bite: a toothpick featuring simply an olive, a Cantabrian anchovy and a guindilla pepper – and it is, of course, the centrepiece of the food offering here. Beyond that there’s pintxos and share plates that work either as a quick snack alongside a glass of sherry or vermouth, or a full meal if you order enough. And all of it’s housed in a luxurious space filled with brass, timber, stone, hand-blown glass and a show-stopping textured polymer sculpture from artist Tan Arlidge. The interior is what Hastie calls “sexy but not flaunting”. Much like Rita Hayworth, who played the lead role in the 1946 film Gilda and was the original inspiration for the snack. And perhaps best of all? Unlike at Firedoor, Hastie is leaving room for walk-ins. “I love the idea that people can just come by and perch themselves at the bar for a quick drink and a bite,” he says.
NSW Fontana Italian house of deliciousness, Don Peppino’s in Paddington, was with us for a good time not a long time but now part of its original crew has reassembled at the equally excellent Fontana in Redfern (clubfontana.com). The menu wanders all over the boot; there’s a Roman-style deep-fried artichoke, mozzarella in Carrozza sandwiches spiced up with ’nduja, and chef Daniel Johnston makes his own Southern Italian taralli – little biscuits sprinkled with fennel seeds that are beautiful with salami. And of course, there’s pasta – lots of it, including the chickpea-bomb ciceri e tria that was a Peppino’s favourite. The Don may be gone but the legend lives on.
THE WAITLIST
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Collector STORY BY GENEVRA LEEK
FIRST CLASS The dial The legendary Roman numerals on a white face remain, with the simple square-in-square design, blue hands and compact date window framed by understated finishes on the bezel.
Zero to hero When luxury Italian brand Bulgari launched its B.zero1 jewellery collection in 1999, all the pieces centred on a bold design that was inspired by Rome’s Colosseum. It was both masculine and feminine and felt futurefacing. Now comes the New Classic ring, with the distinctive B.zero1 spiral trimmed in diamonds. B.zero1 three-band ring in 18-carat white-gold with demi-pavé diamonds / $7350 / bulgari.com
The movement The 1847 MC automatic calibre features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components as well as a paramagnetic alloy shield, meaning it’s resistant to powerful magnetic fields. The screw-down assembly enables the watch to be water-resistant up to 100 metres.
It was the first modern wristwatch, created by Louis Cartier in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. More than 100 years on, it’s one of the world’s most iconic timepieces.
Minimal and practical, yet instantly recognisable with its signature exposed screws and square silhouette, the Santos de Cartier’s most recent refresh has stayed true to the original while feeling more keyed into the times than ever. This latest reference has been assembled, calibrated and tested for resistance to humidity, temperature, pressure, exposure to impact and acceleration so it’s one for style icons and sports enthusiasts alike.
The price Santos de Cartier watch in steel (large model) / $10,700 / cartier.com.au
The case One of Cartier’s guiding principles for updating this watch was “respect for the Santos aesthetic”. Happily, the square shape remains unchanged, as do the eight screws paying tribute to urban Parisian architecture on the bezel. The revision lies in the synergy between case and strap plus tweaks to the slender profile that ensure peak comfort on the wrist.
The
The band Available in steel, calfskin or alligator skin, bands are interchangeable via the QuickSwitch system under the strap. Cartier’s SmartLink self-fitting technology means the length of the metal bracelet can be adjusted to the nearest link without the use of a tool.
Golden soil might get its own line in our national anthem but it doesn’t hold a candle to the world-renowned terra rossa (Latin for “red earth”) that runs through the Coonawarra wine region on South Australia’s Limestone Coast. The viticultural equivalent of striking oil, this 25-kilometre strip of nutrient-dense topography near the Victoria border has yielded some of our nation’s greatest wealth for toil: big, bold cabernet sauvignons that hold their own – and their age – against some of the best in the world.
SOUTHCOONAWARRA,AUSTRALIA
Never is the region’s varietal pride more evident than during October, when spring heralds the Coonawarra Cabernet Celebrations. Established almost 20 years ago, the program evolved to its month-long format in 2015 and now attracts close to 10,000 oenophiles each year. With more than 70 experiences wedged into 31 sun-soaked days, a highlight – and festival organiser Ockert Le Roux’s favourite – is the Coonawarra Regional Cabernet Decade[nce] event. “It showcases the exceptional ageability of our cabernet,” says the Coonawarra Vignerons executive officer. “It’s a combined tasting experience and we invite a number of wineries to showcase their current-release cabernet sauvignon alongside a back-vintage wine of at least 10 years. Hosted by Hollick Estates and paired with a gourmet dinner, it’s really a very specialOtherevening.”opportunities to indulge include a collaboration between Rymill Coonawarra winery, Mayura Station and Pirate Life Brewery, where guests will enjoy a four-course dinner championing Mayura’s full-blood Wagyu, paired with wine and craft beer. Families aren’t forgotten, either: the Nature Play sessions at Bellwether give parents the chance to indulge in a wine flight on the deck while the kids explore a tree house in an ancient red gum or feed Gerado, the resident donkey. For a taste of old-world opulence, historic Delgattie Estate (hotel.qantas.com.au/delgattieestate) in Mount Gambier has been painstakingly restored as a boutique hotel, available either as three individual suites – with features ranging from fireplaces to claw-foot tubs – or for exclusive use (with private chef). It’s just a 40-minute drive from Coonawarra but if you’d rather give the designated driver the weekend off, the Menzies Vineyard Retreat at Yalumba (yalumba.com) is an idyllic getaway close to the action. Don’t leave town without enjoying at least one meal at award-winning Pipers of Penola (pipersofpenola.com.au). On Sundays the restaurant opens for breakfast and the baked Turkish eggs with flatbread is a must. Make it a weekend…
24 KNOW qantas.com/travelinsider
This acclaimed wine region goes all-out during a month-long celebration of cabernet sauvignon.
Culture Trip STORY BY BEK DAY
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26 KNOW The Edit COMPILED BY NATALIE REILLY We’ve scanned the zeitgeist for what to read, watch, wear and drink now. MAKING THE CUT
4 Drink
Streaming Ana de Armas, the doe-eyed brunette from Knives Out and No Time to Die, goes platinum to play actress Marilyn Monroe in Blonde , a Netflix movie co-produced by another iconic blond, Brad Pitt. Starring Bobby Cannavale as Joe DiMaggio and Adrien Brody as playwright Arthur Miller, the film focuses on the duality of Marilyn the performer and Norma Jean, the woman who invented her. Streaming from 23 September.
Podcast Ben Lee, the Aussie musician whose hits Catch My Disease and We’re All in This Together were practically jangling with good-humoured idealism, has earned a cult following on TikTok for his hilarious takes on everything from COVID-19 to The Wiggles. He’s also parlayed all his hippy charm –plus insights into relationships – into a new podcast, Weirder Together, that he co-hosts with actor Ione Skye (Say Anything…), his wife of 14 years.
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3 Beauty Like Thor and his hammer, there are few greater partnerships than Queer Eye ’s Jonathan Van Ness and a shampoo bottle. Van Ness, a hair stylist who turns ordinary folk into their best selves for the hit series, has just released his own JVN line of haircare products, including shampoo, conditioner and a hair mask. The superhero in the range is the Complete Air Dry Cream ($37; sephora. com.au). Apply to damp hair, leave to air dry and your locks will appear styled.
It’s been 10 years in the making but the Pirie Late Disgorged 2011 sparkling wine is finally here ($145 per bottle; tamarridge. com.au). Created from select parcels of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes grown in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, it’s a concentrated and classically structured wine with notes of cashew, citrus and brioche.
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8 Book There’s a convincing argument to be made that without Stephen King, the master of ’70s and ’80s suburban horror, there would be no Stranger Things. Well, the master has gone deep into Stranger Things territory with his latest novel, Fairy Tale , about a lonely 17-year-old boy named Charlie who, after the death of his mother, discovers a parallel world in his own neighbourhood. In bookstores on 6 September.
6 Style The matriarch of Australian jewellery is showcasing her timeless designs at the Museum of Brisbane in an exhibition called World of Wonder: Margot McKinney (until 6 andbluegemscollection,It’smuseumofbrisbane.com.au).November;afittingtitleforthewhichincludesraresuchastheintenselytanzanite,lilacamethystpinktourmalines.
7 Film Ticket to Paradise , like the soapy Greek Island blockbuster Mamma Mia! before it, is frothing with champagne, dancing, aspirational holiday living and… little else. The plot centres on an acrimoniously divorced couple, played by Julia Roberts and George Clooney (above), going to Bali (in reality it’s filmed in Queensland) to present a united front for their daughter’s wedding. But those who thrilled at the lust-charged bickering between these two in Ocean’s Eleven will understand that just like a sarong worn in shallow water, the narrative works best if it stays loose. In cinemas 15 September.
27 qantas.com/travelinsider 7 6 5 8
5 Gadget Global cycling brand Specialized has invented an e-bike that experts are hailing as the best ever of its kind. Called the Turbo Levo (from $9400; specialized. com), it’s a mountain bike with a powerful motor and the ability to manage your ride so you don’t run out of battery.
I know this will seem like a bit of a cliché or too predictable but it’s true. I attended my Archibald subject, artist Karla Dickens’, opening the other night – she’s a good friend, we talk every other day on the phone and have known each other for years – and I have to say, her work is just phenomenal. What she does with mixed media is every craftsperson’s dream.
The app I enjoy the
I regularly listen to Stuff You Should Know
Instagram . I love watching clips of baby goats – I can’t get enough of them – and any video involving dogs or cats. At the moment I’m quite attracted to small spaces and what you can do with smaller homes so I’ve been following this account called Container House Plans – architectural designer Warren Thatcher makes these houses from scratch. For the past 15 years, I’ve lived in a studio apartment in Redfern and I’ve realised the benefits of having a smaller carbon footprint. I’m interested in building a container house on a property.
Blak Douglas The First Nations artist had been working for almost three decades when he won the 2022 Archibald Prize for his painting of fellow artist Karla Dickens. Here’s what else is keeping him occupied.
The book I’ve been reading
inspiredthatTheI’mThemostTVshowwatchingartworkrecentlymeThepodcastI’mlisteningto Surrounded by Idiots by Thomas Erikson. His genius is that he places the whole of humankind into just four categories based on the colours red, yellow, green and blue. I enjoyed it mostly because I’ve always advocated that it doesn’t matter where you come from, idiots are present in every walk of life.
While I enjoy a lot of the episodes, I reckon the one on “How champagne works” is pretty apt for me at the moment!
Vikings It’s based on Norse legends and history. During COVID last year, I watched every Nordic noir that could be watched, mostly TV dramas where there’s dark stuff going on in the plot. I like watching Nordic shows during winter because, with all the snow and ice, it reminds me that we actually aren’t that cold here in Sydney.
28 KNOW qantas.com/travelinsider Piece Of Mind INTERVIEW BY NATALIE REILLY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES BRICKWOOD
Sapphire AdventuresCoastal
MERIMBULA, NSW
Find the freshest oysters and empty beaches on the sparkling Sapphire Coast.
Ben Boyd National Park
About Town STORY BY DILVIN YASA PHOTOGRAPHY BY
“It’s unique on the east coast of Australia to get the level of solitude you can enjoy on Sapphire Coast beaches. I’m a huge fan of Barmouth Beach (left) and love the three-kilometre walk through Ben Boyd National Park from Haycock Point. You get to observe the coastal views, significant birdlife, local wildlife – everything from kangaroos to echidnas – and breaching whales offshore, before settling in for a swim at the Pambula rivermouth. Just remember you’ll be a long way from the shops so be sure to ‘hunt and gather’ some delicious local produce before you hit the track.”
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The name is a hint but doesn’t tell the full story – the real jewels of this idyllic NSW region lie in the water: oysters. Sue McIntyre, co-owner of Broadwater Oysters (broadwateroysters.com.au) on the Sapphire Coast, has been farming award-winning Sydney rock oysters for 25 years. Pambula born and bred, McIntyre revels in the area’s natural beauty – and the opportunity to bond with the wildlife that hounds her for a tasty morsel or two.
Sapphire Coast Oyster Trail “Sydney rock oysters are a huge drawcard here, with millions harvested from five key estuaries each year. Each one has a unique ‘merroir’ or flavour – whether it’s Wonboyn Lake in the very south or the coastal estuary of Merimbula Lake. If you don’t mind a drive, I recommend doing the Sapphire Coast Oyster Trail where(sapphirecoast.com.au),youcanmeetgrowers at their farm gates and enjoy the scenic wilderness as you taste all the flavours. Some growers will open the oysters for you or you can try your hand at shucking them.” DAVID ROGERS
“The fact that we’re located right by a major humpback whale migration ‘highway’ is impressive enough but people are always surprised to find the pods – up to 100 strong and usually including a lot of calves – are often accompanied by seals, dolphins and penguins. Take a Sapphire Coastal
Oyster farmer Sue McIntyre with her husband, Greg Carton
–eventowithcruise.running,yourtoyou’reSeptemberfromcom.au)(sapphirecoastaladventures.AdventureswhalewatchingtourMerimbulaMarinabetweenandNovemberandprettymuchguaranteedseesomethingthatwilltakebreathaway.Ifthey’reIrecommendadawnIfindfirstlightcombinedcalmmorningconditionsbethebesttime.Youmayseethewhalesfeedingararesightanywhereelse.”
Porsche Macan, Jaguar F-Pace and Audi RS Q3. Competition is fierce so Maserati is out to make a statement. What are the powertrain options? The Modena-based brand has considered the Grecale line-up in great depth, starting with three variants, including the Trofeo, a 390kW/620Nm 3.0L V6, based on the F1-derived engine in the MC20, with a claimed 0-100km/h dash of 3.8 seconds and a top speed of 285km/h. Next year will also see a fully electric variant, the Folgore, which will be Maserati’s first EV SUV. The standout features? Aside from its beautiful cabin, highlights include a new, intelligent UI system with a 12.3-inch touchscreen (the largest of any trident-stamped vehicle), a 14- or 21-speaker Sonus faber 3D sound system and a pleasant level of rear-seat roominess. How much is it? At time of writing, Australian prices were yet to be confirmed but you can register your interest with dealers now. If the Levante’s success is any indicator, allocations will be snapped up. maserati.com
GRECALEMASERATI
This is Maserati’s second SUV. Correct. Building on the popularity of the Maserati Levante SUV, the Grecale is smaller in dimensions and cost. What’s special about it? The Italian marque is in the middle of a total rebirth across design, engineering and innovation, which it launched with the epic MC20 supercar. The Grecale is the first passenger vehicle to emerge – consider it a family car flag-bearer of sorts. What rivals is it aiming at?
The luxury Italian car maker has revealed its latest crossover SUV and a new era that includes electrification. JanuaIntroducing+Freifrau. Both German Design. Both German Made. Both available exclusively at top3 by design. top3.com.au or call 1300 867 333 Pictured is the new Janua Basket Series in Outdoor Alpine Stone and indoor Emperador marble complimented with Freifrau indoor and outdoor seating.
Road Trip STORY BY NOELLE FAULKNER PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVIDE DE MARTIS
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The St. Regis Bali Resort Lobster with your omelette, foie gras with your steak – and that’s just the breakfast buffet. Then there’s the 24-hour butler service, golf buggies waiting to whisk you around the sprawling 124-room resort creationringofpool,home,athethatWagyuSundaystregisbaliresort)(hotel.qantas.com.au/andabottomlessbrunch(withsashimi,beefandmorelobster)luresguestsfromalloverworld.AglitzyStrandVillaissumptuoushome-away-from-withchandeliers,privategardenandyourownpatchgoldensand.Allthat’sleftistoforTheSt.Regis’smosticonic–aBloodyMary.
Seminyak4 W Bali Buttons by the poolside lounges read, “Need anything?”, and you just might, if gazing into the palm trees or out to sea between dips in the terraced pool stretches into the afternoon. Wherever you kick back, the Bali outpost of this rock’n’roll hotel andfindhouseoxygenviews,aguestrooms,delivers(hotel.qantas.com.au/wbali)brand229modern-tropicalsuitesandvillas,seafoodrestaurantwithsunseta24-hourspaofferingtop-upsandanambientmusicheartbeat.Ifyoutime,thereareboutiques warungs waiting at the end of the bamboo-shaded driveway. BY FAITH CAMPBELL BALI Four luxurious stays on the Island of the Gods.
Nusa3 Dua
Check In STORY
1 3 4 For the full reviews of these Bali hotels, visit qantas.com/travelinsider
32 KNOW 2 Ubud2 Amandari On arrival at Amandari satayatoraTapprivaterevealandcoolmasterworksdecadesbenchmarktheOnelikegoodqantas.com.au/amandariubud),(hotel.energywashesoveryouthebalmyBalinesebreeze.ofUbud’sfirstluxuryresorts,32-suitepropertyremainsthemorethanthreelater.Suitesaretimelessofwarmtimberandstone,wherewindowsglassdoorsslideopentooutdoormarblebathtubs,poolsandexoticgardens.intolocaltraditionwithpriest’sblessing,morningyogabyansweringyesto“Spicy?”therestaurant,wherethefishandrendangaresublime. Tabanan1 Soori Bali Slipping into your own pool from the living room, just steps from the bed, may make a beach feel redundant but at Soori breakfastcabanaandadishes),(servingvillasbeach-,villages,ofNorth-westblackalongside(hotel.qantas.com.au/sooribali),Baliastretchofglitteringsand,youcanhaveitall.ofCanggu,inaregionricepaddiesandunhurriedthesleekresorthas48ocean-ormountain-viewandresidences,twoeateriesWesternandIndonesianaspaandlibrary,andisworlduntoitself.Orderlunchdinnertoyourpoolsidebutdon’tmissthetastingmenuatCotta.
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Find your next flight at qantas.com Read more about the
Worth the wait Hawaii’s best dessert, Bali’s top snorkelling spot and hot springs by starlight in New Zealand. Here, three Qantas travellers share highlights from their recent trips abroad. experiences of Qantas travellers at qantas.com/travelinsider
TRAVELLED TO New Zealand
“ I remember being at the airport and my husband turned to me with this massive grin on his face and said, ‘I can’t believe we’re actually going,’ because he hadn’t seen his family in Christchurch since 2019. Flying with Qantas was wonderful. The staff were lovely. Our trip was so special; not only did we reconnect with family, we also spent a week on a road trip to Queenstown with our best friends. You must stop at Fairlie Bakehouse (fairlie bakehouse.co.nz) in the Canterbury region for the meat pies. Lake Tekapo will blow you away. And hop into the Tekapo Springs at night and watch the stars; the air is freezing but the pools are warm. It’s so beautiful and relaxing.”
orderWaikikiYoufavouriteHousemina.net)Thecom.au/royalhawaiianhotel)and(hotel.qantas.com.au/moanasurfrider)SurfriderTheRoyalHawaiian(hotel.qantas.inWaikiki.foodisgreat;Stripsteak(michaelisabsolutelyfantasticandYard(226LewersStreet)isanother–itdoesadelicioussearedtuna.can’tgopasttheiconicbarDuke’s(dukeswaikiki.com).BesuretoKimo’sOriginalHulaPie.” TRAVEL INSPIRATION
TRAVELLED TO Bali FREQUENT FLYER STATUS Bronze “ What started as a trip with my boyfriend turned into a full-blown family affair. Nine of our family and friends decided to join us because everyone was looking for an excuse to travel again and where better than Bali? We stayed for two nights at the Pullman Bali Legian Beach (hotel. qantas.com.au/pullmanbali) and five nights at The Haven (hotel.qantas.com. au/thehavenbali). We only spent one day by the pool relaxing – every other day was filled with activities. We sipped cocktails at Palmilla Beach Club and snorkelled at Blue Lagoon Beach. I was obsessed with the smoothie bowls at Crumb & Coaster (JI. Benesari 2E, Kuta). I went every morning and they were epic.”
TRAVELLED TO Hawaii
FREQUENT FLYER STATUS Platinum “ My wife, Karen, and I had to cut our America trip short in March 2020 so as soon as we were able to travel again this year, we picked up that trip, visiting everywhere from Vegas to Disneyland. We stayed for 10 days in Hawaii, splitting our time between the Moana
Credited as the world’s first carbon-positive beauty brand, Emma Lewisham is B Corp certified for its transparent supply chain. Ingredients are audited for social and biodiversity impact, while conscious shipping and local warehousing reduce freight emissions. “A lot can be minimised with good forecasting.”
Lewisham is now sharing her blueprint with big players such as David Jones and even competitors. “Where we are in the world now, we don’t want to compete on sustainability.”
Emma Lewisham This natural-born disruptor is making skincare fit for the future.
Lewisham estimates that there are 120 billion units of beauty packaging created annually and, as she told legendary activist Jane Goodall on the Hopecast podcast, if the whole industry went circular, emissions could drop by 70 per cent.
34 KNOW Ready to go Green? Green tier rewards Frequent Flyers for travelling, sipping and living more sustainably. Live and Sip Sustainable Unlock Green Tier Enjoy your rewards Make a positive impact by purchasing eco-products from one of our certified wine producers. Green choices also earn bonus Qantas Points. You’ll automatically unlock Green tier status when you complete activities in five categories in a Membership Year. Choose your reward and enjoy the exclusive benefits of being Green.
Things that don’t make sense really rankle Emma Lewisham. When the New Zealand businesswoman was thinking about starting a brand, she couldn’t comprehend the gap for natural, high-end skincare that was backed by science. Working with chemists and physiologists, she launched an eponymous line of clinically tested, plant-driven products in 2019. But exacting formulations were just part of Lewisham’s mission. “From the get-go I wanted to be sustainable,” she says of her product packaging. “I went out to recycling plants and councils in New Zealand and Australia and the story was: ‘We’re not recycling recyclable beauty packaging – it’s too complex so no pumps can be recycled, this glass is going into landfill, anything below 30 millilitres is going into landfill.’”
Name To Know STORY BY TRACEY WITHERS
Versed in the circular economy by a previous corporate job, she saw taking responsibility for packaging as a game changer. “We offer a free return shipping label at checkout on our website and in early 2023 we’ll be in Mecca, where you’ll be able to return product packaging to drop-off boxes inside stores,” she says. Online, products are stamped with a carbon load, a bit like a nutritional panel on food. “Our refillable products have a 74 per cent smaller carbon score.”
Scan and shop now at qantas.com/wine Frequent Flyer Members will earn 10 Qantas Points per A$1 dollar spent on making the delivery of their Qantas Wine or Qantas Reward Store purchase climate positive. Climate Positive Delivery cannot be redeemed for cash, and is non-refundable. This product cannot be used to make purchases from any retailer including Qantas, Qantas Rewards Store or Qantas Wine. This product offers carbon offsetting for Australian residents only and does not consider any other country, conditions or carbon offsetting criteria. Adding Climate Positive Delivery to any Qantas Wine or Qantas Rewards Store purchase will count towards achieving Green tier. You must purchase Climate Positive Delivery in conjunction with at least one other item from the Rewards Store in order for your action to count towards your Green tier status. Climate Positive Delivery terms and conditions apply. Qantas Frequent Flyer members will earn 1 Qantas Point per $1 spent. Qantas Wine Premium Members will earn 3 Qantas Points per $1 spent (annual membership fee may apply). To purchase from Qantas Wine, you must be 18 years+ and have an Australian delivery address. Qantas Wine Terms of Use and Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions apply. Liquor Act 2007: No alcohol can be sold or supplied to anyone under 18. It’s against the law. Licence Number: LIQP770016736
Our Sustainable Sips range has been carefully curated from grape growers and winemakers who have sustainability at the heart of what they do. When you purchase one of their products from Qantas Wine, your commitment to making greener choices will be recognised and will count towards achieving your Green tier status. Once you do, you will be rewarded with 250 bonus Qantas Points per case of our designated eco-friendly cases.
Sustainable sips to unlock Green Tier Status
Start your sustainability journey with Qantas Wine by shopping from our range of wineries such as Tahbilk, Leeuwin Estate, Taylors, Voyager Estate and more.
In April, the riverside cherry blossoms at Yeouido Park turn to pink lace.
36 KNOW Spotlight STORY BY ERIN CRAIG
A single bell ripples the air at dawn and dusk; three golden Buddhas shine between the heavy red pillars of the Dharma Hall. For all this serenity, Jogyesa Temple (jogyesa.kr) is a brushstroke of colour amid the business greys and blacks of downtown. Visit in May when the temple is ribboned with lanterns for the Lotus Lantern Festival (right; llf.or.kr). Across the street, the seasonal menu at Balwoo veganthe(balwoo.or.kr)Gongyangunderscoressimpleeleganceoftemplefood.
Pause Jogyesain Temple
Cycle the Han River
“The Han River is literally Seoul’s playground,” says Frank Lee of the Han River Riders Cycling club. The Han (or Hangang) flows east-west through the capital with 11 dynamic city parks along its banks. Grab a bike rental from park kiosks to take a spin along trails on either side of the river (above) – if you’re feeling intrepid, the path continues a further 556 kilometres to Busan. For a more leisurely approach, see the city lights on an Eland Cruise starlight tour (elandcruise.com).
Seoul If the South Korean capital isn’t on your hit list, these top city stops will change your mind.
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Fire up at a Korean barbecue Barbecue is Korea’s first choice for a night out and restaurants are easily recognisable by the silvery ventilation tubes that hang like chandeliers above table grills. Order by the cut of meat; an array of vegetable side dishes is included. Sample a range of popular cuts, such as pork belly and marinated galbi (ribs), at Maple Tree House (mapletreehouse.co.kr) – a rare barbecue restaurant that caters to solo diners as well as groups. Upscale Born & Bred (bandb.co.kr) specialises in Hanwoo, Korea’s answer to Wagyu beef. Here you’ll find a boutique butcher shop, a casual dining restaurant and an exclusive omakase eatery in the basement speak-easy. Sweat it out in a traditional sauna Korea’s famous jjimjilbang (sauna spas) are an unmissable experience but if the etiquette or, ahem, scant dress code intimidates, head to Cimer (p-city.com) to combine the blissful traditional sauna experience with the familiarity of a Western spa. Feel tension melt away in the blanketing heat of the Jjimjil Spa Zone (below) as you work your way up to the 85°C Bulgama (kiln fire) room, making a rejuvenating stop in the Ice Room before exploring the rest of this three-storey aqua spa.
At Aquafield, in giant shopping mall Starfield Hanam (aquafield-ssg.co.kr), kids can enjoy the indoor/outdoor water parks while their adults unwind in more than a dozen relaxation and dry sauna areas.
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Hit the best kids’ parks in the city Children will love Lotte World Adventure (adventure. lotteworld.com), which has the world’s largest indoor theme park among its attractions. Use the park’s Adventure App to check wait times then avoid them by reserving spots on up to 10 rides with the Premium Magic Pass. A stroll through leafy Seokchon Lake Park next door (the lake is shaped like a figure eight) will give everyone a chance to wind down beneath cherry blossoms in spring and firework foliage in autumn (above). Then get cheering at a baseball match in Jamsil Stadium (koreabaseball.com), Korea’s most venerable ballpark, where you can see evening games played six nights a week from April to September. At the end of the day, collapse into the luxurious embrace of Signiel Seoul (lottehotel.com), set high above the city in Lotte World Tower.
For lone travellers, Seoul’s honbap (dining alone) trend means you can now enjoy dishes that usually require a crowd, such as the beef course menu at Ushiya (16 Dosandae-ro 27-gil, Gangnam-gu; +82 10 9359 9667) or Oncheonjip’s chic shabu-shabu (Ikseon-dong 128-3, Jongno-gu; +82 2 762 8215). Meals that are always great for one: crack an egg into kimchi soondubu jjigae (soft tofu stew) at nearlyco.kr),MyeongdongslurpSundubuBukchang-dong(dkore.co.kr)orkalguksunoodlesatKyoja(mdkj.alocalfavouriteforsixdecades.
Find a solodining scene
Ride the Seoul Metro... for fun Make the journey your destination on the city’s celebrated metro (seoulmetro.co.kr).systemThere are more than 300 stations on its nine main lines and many are attractions in their own right. Encounter history in underground museums at Gwanghwamun (Line 5), visit Gangnam (Line 2) for subterranean shopping heaven or get a salad grown by robots at a futuristic smart farm in Sangdo (Line 7). The metro has its own art gallery in Gyeongbokgung (Line 3) and a film festival (smiff.kr), which is screened in trains each autumn. Use rechargeable Tmoney cards for discounted fares; they work for taxis and buses, too.
KhoCarl
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Meet the locals on a walking tour
“Seoul is a metropolitan city containing tradition and modernity,” says Hoon Son, who has shared his city’s streets and stories with visitors since 2011. Seoul Guided Walking Tour (dobo.visitseoul.net) offers free, English-language tours along 40 historical and cultural routes, including six night-time trails available between May and October. Volunteer guides like Hoon come from varied walks of life but share a deep knowledge and love of their home. For tradition, he recommends the Gyeongbokgung Palace tour (above) for its tales of intrigue from the Joseon Dynasty; for modernity, the night course along regenerated Cheonggyecheon Stream, which showcases the green city Seoul aspires to be.
“It’s a good example of how much hiking there is in Korea when the capital city has one of the gems of all the parks in its backyard,” says Roger Shepherd of Hike Korea (hikekorea.com). He should know, having guided treks in South and North Korea for more than a decade. Bukhansan (below), just under an hour on public transport from central Seoul, has trails that shoot up mountainsides, follow ancient fortress walls or meander through pine forests to hidden temples. Shepherd suggests a ramble to the summit of Baegundae, the park’s highest peak. Back in Seoul, feast on meat-stuffed mung bean pancakes and that essential post-hike refreshment, makgeolli rice wine, at Jongno Bindaetteok (Sejong-daero 23-gil 21, Jongno-gu; +82 2 737 1857).
ICN Qantas flights from Sydney to Seoul will commence from 10 December 2022. qantas.com
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Hike to the top of Bukhansan National Park
Sleep among the trees At Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (banyantree.com) you won’t feel guilty for skipping the sights to hang around the hotel all day. Tucked along the edge of Namsan, Seoul’s largest park, it’s a verdant escape in the middle of the city. Afternoon coffee and dessert is at Festa by Mingoo, an airy garden eatery by renowned chef Mingoo Kang. Refresh with a dip in your in-room pool before drinks on the Moon Bar terrace with views of Namsan Tower, an iconic part of Seoul’s skyline. Try kimchi beer on a pub crawl How does a country that produces none of the key ingredients for beer end up bagging craft brewing awards? Originality and a bit of fearlessness. “We are trying to capture something local,” says Erik Moynihan, CEO of Magpie Brewing Co. (magpiebrewing.com). Its Kimchi Ghost, a variation on the sour gose that won Champion Beer of Asia in 2019, echoes the fresh bite of cucumber kimchi. Newcomer of10notandtaprooms(artmonster.co.kr)Artmonster’ssixretroareheavyonneonfuchsiapaintbutit’sallflash–eachofthebeerscarriesagarlandinternationalawards.
QANTASPOINTSEARNANDUSE
DINE ColesMeaghan Choripán at El Estanco in the Barossa Valley 44 Meet the chefs bringing theingredientsnativeintomainstream 52 Where to order the best Peking duck Neil Perry’s ever had 54 The top places to eat and drink in the Barossa Valley
44 DINE GREEN ANTS AND HAM Native ingredients are adding bold flavours – and a touch of ancient culture – to local menus. On The Menu STORY BY ELIZABETH MERYMENT
“We source local produce and native ingredients and showcase them through our menu to connect people to our culture,” says Bundjalung woman and MasterChef finalist Mindy Woods, who runs Karkalla restaurant in Byron Bay, NSW. “Indigenous people are modern people and we want to start breaking down stereotypes that Aboriginal people sit around campfires eating witchetty grubs.”
Woods has built Karkalla’s menu around produce she grew up with. “My first encounter with native ingredients was with my nan, cracking oysters off the rocks,” she says. “We’d be down the beach, getting oysters and pipis and sea succulents and putting them straight on the campfire. It’s an incredible memory. These things grow here for a reason and they need to be protected and celebrated.”
Dusk falls softly at Uluru. As the heat of the day passes and the sky begins its nightly spectacle, the first shadows of evening are accompanied by the visceral hum of a didgeridoo and the lemony scent of Australian herbs and bush fruits. At Tali Wiru, meaning “beautiful dune” in local Pitjantjatjara language, a starlit fine-dining experience a few kilometres from the great rock is beginning.
Tali Wiru, now 10 years old, was devised by Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia, which manages Ayers Rock Resort. Its partnerships with First Nations chefs, suppliers and staff is at the pointy end of a movement occurring nationwide: the incorporation of native ingredients into contemporary Australian cuisine.
“Working at Tali Wiru brings back memories of the tastes of my childhood,” says Aboriginal apprentice chef Jayden Weetra. “I was spoiled by the amount of native fruit available in South Edible succulent karkalla (left); showcasing native flavours at Tali Wiru, near Uluru (above)
Australia where I grew up. Now I get to cook with these flavours and introduce guests to them.”
As visitors gather, a basket of native ingredients is passed around and everyone is encouraged to sample the salty, waxy sea succulents, zesty finger limes and sweet-sour Davidson plums. Diners purse their lips as the flavours test their tastebuds, before a round of canapés emerges to reveal the raw ingredients reimagined in bite-sized morsels. Paroo kangaroo tartare, for instance, is presented with wattleseed lavosh, shaved egg yolk and finger lime, while blue swimmer crab is dressed with quandong. Gin-compressed cucumber is spiked with green ant and celery salt. Green ants, guests learn, taste like lemon sherbet. It’s the start of a remarkable culinary experience that offers travellers not only a glimpse of the Australian outback but, quite literally, a taste of it.
It’s not only First Nations chefs who are embracing native ingredients. For Khanh Nguyen, of Melbourne’s Aru restaurant,
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For Weetra, the use of such products at Tali Wiru offers a chance to share Aboriginal knowledge and culture with travellers.
“Our mission is to connect people with Country and culture, a culture that has been around for thousands of years,” says Matthew Cameron-Smith, CEO of Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia, which manages Ayers Rock Resort and the Tali Wiru experience (ayersrockresort. com.au). Catering to just 20 guests, Tali Wiru’s $415 four-course menu stars a bounty of native ingredients, with each inventive dish matched with quality Australian wines. Expect courses such as Wagyu with cabernet-poached pear, caramelised macadamia, desert oak, mushroom and espresso jus or Boston Bay pork belly with green ant gin-infused fennel, Kakadu plum compote and caramelised Davidson plum.
Uluru, NT Tali Wiru
their use is key. “Asian cooking is all about balance — the flavours revolve around sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami,” he says. “As native ingredients can be quite acidic, I use them in place of tamarind or lime. I infuse lemon myrtle leaves into an oil for dressings, use Davidson plums for jams or gels and bake cakes with wattleseeds.”
Pottsville, NSW Pipit Chef Ben Devlin (ex-Paper Daisy in Cabarita) has created a small venue of dishesseafoodcontemporarynativeproduce,gorgeousofPottsville,(pipitrestaurant.com)wonderat30minutesnorthByronBay.AswellasusingNorthernRiversDevlinintegratesflavoursintoasmartmenuheavyonandvegetables.Trysuchaspaperbark-smoked
Roasted baby grouper wrapped in paperbark and saltbush at Pipit, NSW
“Being part of the Tali Wiru experience gives me great cultural pride as I can cook with food off the land,” he says. “Guests enjoy the flavours of the raw fruits, berries and vegetables... even the green ants!” Woods believes Aboriginal food can be viewed as a healing tool between cultures and a conversation starter from which all Australians can learn. “I think food can be a huge part of reconciliation. Most people don’t realise we have the oldest food culture in the world right here. This is Australia’s food. Come and walk with Australia’s mob – it’s the only way that we can move forward together.”
Try these…
“First Nations storytelling is also an important part of the Tali Wiru experience,” says Cameron-Smith. “All our servers are First Nations people, allowing them to easily answer guest questions about the dishes. A display of tools and weaponry and most importantly a ‘guided tour’ of the night sky closes out the experience.” It’s a once-in-a-lifetime evening.
WA Fervor locations)(various It’s hard to pin down just where and when Fervor (fervor.com.au) will appear next. But if you get the chance to experience this magical pop-up, take it. The concept from Paul “Yoda” Iskov offers dining experiences that embrace native ingredients, First Nations knowledge and storytelling. To date, Fervor’s pop-ups have been held in the Pinnacles Desert and Kakadu. Check the website for updates, events and information on bush foods, from boab tubers to waterlily roots and seeds.
Melbourne Aru “My cooking is a representation of who I am and a celebration of both Vietnamese and Australian cultures,” says Khanh Nguyen, chef and co-owner of CBD restaurant Aru (aru.net.au), whose interest in native ingredients was sparked by an internship at René Redzepi’s Noma Sydney pop-up in 2016. “Working with these ingredients requires an open mind and experimentation. We try things in different forms – fresh, frozen, powdered – and then figure out the best way to treat them and how to weave them into our dishes. What’s important for us is that it doesn’t feel forced and that it isn’t a token addition.” Head to Aru for a warm oyster with perilla, finger lime and paperbark or dry-aged duck with quandong, black cabbage and bamboo.
Aru chef Khanh Nguyen (above) Swan Valley Old Young’s Kitchen Chef Rohan Park spent three years with Fervor, learning the secrets of native ingredients, and also worked in some of the state’s finest winery restaurants. He now brings his considerable skills to Old Young’s blackberrykohlrabi,dishes.withthatingredientsPark’soffshoot(oldyoungskitchen.com.au),KitchenanofOldYoung’sDistillery.confidentuseofnativeresultsinamenumeldsbushingredientslocalproduce-focusedFindcuredkingfishwithfingerlimeandpepperorcrocodilechorizowithgarlicandwildrosella.
PaulsenKristoffer baby grouper with blue swimmer crab, turnip and local sea lettuce or sourdough with smoked macadamia and kefir butter. It’s delicious, thoughtful and well-executed.
Byron Bay, NSW Karkalla Chef and owner Mindy Woods has found her groove at this 40-seat Byron Bay restaurant named after a native beach succulent (karkalla.com.au). Karkalla combines “ancient ingredients with modern flavours” so anticipate an intriguing menu that might include local school prawns with lemon myrtle salt and finger lime mayo, crisp saltbush with bush tomato mayo and lemon or steamed barramundi scattered with blistered sea succulents and native kombu broth, served with brown rice grown in nearby Nimbin.
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Rock stars have groupies singing their songs to them in the street. Sports champions get bombarded for autographs.
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This pretty, punchy fish dish is so popular that guests have been known to order it several times in one sitting. its northern neighbour at the post – about 37,000 to Sydney’s 23,000). In fact, says Cooper, around one in three customers orders it. “When we’re open, we sell about one every three-and-a-half minutes,” he says, adding that some groups order it a number of times in a single sitting.
STORY BY ALEXANDRA CARLTON partially “cooked” by a green nam jim made with green chilli, coriander, lime juice and palm sugar then finished with coconut cream and a garland of baby cress. The colours are a medley of prettiness – the vibrant greens of the herbs and julienned makrut lime leaves, plus the lush pastels of the fish itself. And the flavours are a palate party that bounces between fresh, zesty, hot, sour, sweet and salty, marrying perfectly with the toothsome nature of the kingy.
There are chefs who like to distance themselves from their signature dishes, preferring to be known for their latest creations and for pushing boundaries. Not Cooper. “I have a huge sense of ownership of Chin Chin’s classic dishes that bring a sense of comfort and joy to our guests. And it’s really humbling to be approached about a dish like this.”
Benjamin Cooper, creative director of the two Chin Chin restaurants in Melbourne and Sydney (chinchinrestaurant.com.au), attracts his own, very precise form of fandom whenever he meets Chin Chin regulars. “They all say, ‘Oh you’re from Chin Chin? I love the sashimi!’” he says, laughing. “It’s always the sashimi and it’s such a lovely thing to hear.” The sashimi that holds such a sway over customers is actually more like a ceviche. It’s made from thin slices of pale, shimmering kingfish that are The
Crowd-pleaser
To call it popular is an understatement.
Cooper says that between the two restaurants, Chin Chin sells approximately 60,000 portions a year (Melbourne pips
KINGFISH SASHIMI AT CHIN CHIN
A SINGULAR VISION Carl Hexter 0409 411 507 Julian Gries 0411 988 066 THE ONLY RESIDENTIAL DEVELOPMENT ON FLEMINGTON RACECOURSE IN ITS 182 YEAR HISTORY Retreat to your very own tranquil oasis amongst the grounds of Flemington Racecourse, the historic home of the Melbourne Cup. Located just 15 minutes from the CBD and less than 20 minutes from Melbourne Airport. Finessed by renowned architecture and interior design practices ARM and Carr, The Darley boasts 1, 2, 3, & 4 bedroom residences, with luxury amenities including a subterranean wine cellar, cinema, private dining rooms, lounge and infinity pool. Residences priced from $599,500. THEDARLEY.COM.AU Artist's Impression
Best craft beer
Best Of
Streetside tables are in hot demand at artisan bakery-café Grant Street Kitchen. That’s thanks in part to Parisian-grade croissants, while credit also goes to flaky-pastry pies that pay tribute to local ingredients, such as coral trout and prawn in white sauce. Sushi bowls and bircher muesli pots cater for the wellness warriors but few can resist the baked treats, including filled doughnuts and raspberry and walnut brownies.
Best Thai Oaks Kitchen & Garden
Jimmy Rum’s Mixing Lounge
17 Murphy Street, Port Douglas; (07) 4099 5330; nautilus-restaurant.com.au
Best cocktails
Best bakery Grant Street Kitchen
Port Douglas Road, Port Douglas; (07) 4099 0802; harrisonsrestaurant.com.au
Shop 4-5, corner Grant and Macrossan streets, Port Douglas; 0478 769 987; grantstreetkitchen.com.au
STORY BY LARISSA DUBECKI
The Little Larder Heading off to explore the wonders of Cape Tribulation, the Daintree or the Great Barrier Reef? First make a pit stop at The Little Larder, where inventive breakfast dishes, such as Middle Eastern-spiced zucchini and halloumi falafel, will set you up for the day. A smoothie bowl piled high with nuts, fruit, granola and raw cacao rewards the health-conscious. Daily heart-starters extend from matcha iced tea to coffee from Sunshine Coast roaster Tim Adams.
Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina, 44 Wharf Street, Port Douglas; 0482 173 337; hemingwaysbrewery.com Best Italian La Cucina + Bar The pasta is excellent, as you’d expect at a restaurant run by a proud Puglian, but La Cucina offers more than a fresh seafood linguini, fragrant with basil and chilli, and rich pappardelle with braised venison. Luxuriate in the pleasures of fritto misto, charry spatchcock or basil gelato – or take it up a notch by pre-ordering mud crab. 4 Macrossan Street, Port Douglas; (07) 4099 6744; lacucinaportdouglas.com.au
PORT DOUGLAS Smoothie bowls, yellow goat curry, Flaming Zombies – the dining scene in this Far North Queensland town doesn’t miss a beat. Best breakfast
Corner Wharf and Macrossan streets, Port Douglas; (07) 4099 5181; courthousehotel portdouglas.com.au
Shop 17, 53-61 Macrossan Street, Port Douglas, (07) 4099 6450; thelittlelarder.com.au
Hemingway’s Brewery
A restaurant masquerading as a tropical oasis, the palm-shaded Nautilus is down a hidden path in the heart of town. With fans twirling overhead, the open-air eatery turns on the fine-dining charm with luxe seafood – grilled Moreton Bay bugs, lobster dumplings with prawn oil or Singapore-chilli-style mud crab – matched to romantic trimmings of white linen, flickering candlelight and a twinkling canopy of stars overhead.
It’s certainly worth the 15-minute drive from Port Douglas to reach Oaks Kitchen & Garden, where many of the ingredients for the authentic Thai food of former Longrain chef Ben Wallace are grown onsite. The chef’s table lunch is a leisurely affair, segueing from herby egg net salad with fiery Isaan sausage to paperbarksmoked chicken thigh with fermented shrimp and landing at a yellow goat curry. Pop your drinks in the BYO fridge and retrieve at will. Lot 3, 11-13 Nancy Close, Oak Beach; (07) 4098 5383; oakskitchenandgarden.com
Best pub
The Court House Hotel Residing in a two-storey Queenslander, The Court House Hotel has catered to thirsty punters since 1878. The grande dame has kept up with the times by virtue of a rooftop bar for sunset drinks, live music in the beer garden, a flirty cocktail list (the Piña Colada Slushie is a must) and a greatest hits pub menu featuring towering burgers and classic fish and chips – using local barramundi, of course.
Best date night Nautilus Restaurant
A cloistered world behind heavy drapery, old-school cocktail den Jimmy Rum’s brings a sophisticated edge to the Port Douglas bar scene with vintage posters and dim lighting. Classic cocktails get a modern twist – the Old Fashioned has a kick from maple syrup, while the theatrics of the Flaming Zombie make it a crowd favourite. Can’t decide? Put yourself in the hands of the mindreading bartenders.
13/53-61 Macrossan Street, Port Douglas; (07) 4099 5912; jimmyrums.com
Sprawling along the superyacht marina, Hemingway’s Brewery distils the local terroir into its acclaimed range of craft beers brewed onsite, including the refreshing 7th Heaven Tropical Ale and citrusy Coral Cay IPA. The recipe for maximising enjoyment here involves grabbing an alfresco table and grazing across the easygoing menu of burgers, pizza and charcuterie boards. Want to go deeper? Take a brewery tour followed by a guided tasting.
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Best poolside dining Harrisons Set over two chandelier-lit levels inside the Sheraton Grand Mirage – arguably the glitziest Port Douglas resort – Harrisons, by chef and owner Spencer Patrick, spills onto a breezy terrace overlooking the vast lagoon pool.
The stylings are ’80s glam but the food is sharp and contemporary: think spaghetti of squid and ’nduja or a playfully reimagined steak tartare with foie gras and HP sauce.
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The Dish STORY BY NEIL PERRY Why I like it I love Peking duck and I’ve eaten it all around the world, from Beijing to Shanghai, Hong Kong to Singapore and San Francisco to New York. Now I’m going to make a very big call – the best Peking duck I have ever had was at Park Chinois in London. You’ll need to pre-order it when you book because the duck (called Duck de Chine on the menu) is roasted to order. This means that it’s cooked and rested before serving – but only long enough for it to set, not cool as many pre-roasted ducks are. The crisp skin – a perfectly glazed mahogany – is served Beijingstyle; the skin is removed from the meat, cut into squares and arranged over the sliced duck. The meat? Juicy and tender with a deep, rich flavour. The Mandarin pancakes are al dente, while the bean paste adds a hit of sweetness. This isn’t a dish; it’s an experience.
THE BIRD IS THE WORD
The vibe Think of Park Chinois as an opulent salon. After being greeted at the front desk, you can head downstairs to the nightclub bar, stop off at the long bar at the entrance or go straight through to the restaurant. The whole experience is very 1930s Shanghai, with red leather banquettes, dark wood, splashes of red and soft mood lighting. There’s also live entertainment; sometimes an opera singer, sometimes a string quartet. Whatever you get, you need to know this is no ordinary Chinese restaurant. Goes well with… Burgundy and duck is a classic combination and the list at Park Chinois features some of the world’s greatest burgundies. I opted for a stunning Gevrey-Chambertin, which – thanks to its powerful fruit, delicate tannins and long length of flavour – is an ideal match for duck. Pinot noir or a lighterstyle Rhône wine is also a good pairing. What else is on the menu? The dumplings are next level, including the traditional har gau (crisp, crunchy prawns in a delicate wrapper) and the Szechuan vegetable dumplings, which have incredible texture. The slow-roast Ibérico pork ribs is a must-order –rich and sticky, sweet and salty. Take a group and go to town on the steamed sea bass with soya, ginger and spring onions, and the Madagascan prawns with crispy pork belly and XO sauce. Where to get it Park Chinois is just off Berkeley Square in Mayfair. It’s a short walk from St James’s or Soho and is surrounded by other great restaurants. 17 Berkeley Street, Mayfair, London; +44 (0)20 3327 8888; parkchinois.com
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Chef Neil Perry shares his favourite meal of the month: Peking duck from Park Chinois in London.
Whether it’s lunch by the fireside on a winter’s day or a bright spring bite and glass of grenache under the palm trees on the terrace, a trip to the Barossa isn’t complete without a stop at Fino Seppeltsfield (fino.net.au). And this classic winery restaurant now has another compelling attraction: its former sous chef, Daniel Murphy, has returned to head up the kitchen, bringing with him a ton of Barossa experience and an obsession with local produce (never ignore the Spencer Gulf prawns if you see them on the menu). When he’s not foraging for ingredients, here are the places Murphy heads to refuel in the district.
BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
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Local Heroes STORY BY ALEXANDRA CARLTON
El Estanco (above); Fino Seppeltsfield chef Daniel Murphy (right)
Tastings, cooking classes and some of the best restaurants in the state. Here’s where chef Daniel Murphy likes to spend his downtime.
RiveraGabKovac.Sven
Fleur Social For the coffee
(Clockwise from above) Casa Carboni; the fried chicken burger at Contour; Fleur Social
Casa Carboni For the gnocchi “Matteo and Fiona Carboni run this restaurant and cooking school (casacarboni.com.au) in Angaston. It’s a good spot for a light lunch: simple Italian food. Like me, Matteo shops at the farmers’ market on a Saturday then cooks whatever he finds so you never know what he’ll have on the menu. His gnocchi is always out of this world.”
pub meal, especially the schnitty. The hotel’s run by a family – they all work there – and it’s always busy. They have fantastic local wines and do a wicked quiz night on Wednesdays.”
El Estanco For the choripán “This is fairly new and a good spot (elestanco.com.au) for families; there’s a play area so parents can eat and kids can roam free. I love the South American-style breakfasts here. They have an open wood grill and there’s a lot of smoke and flame in the food, like the choripán with fried egg and aji amarillo. Their pastries are also sensational, made by in-house pastry chef Cheryse Zagler.”
“This is a boutique coffee shop in Nuriootpa (fleursocial.com.au), run by Sarah Sharkey and Ryan Remillard. Their mantra is they sell flowers and coffee – that’s it. The coffee is from Barossa Coffee Roasters at Seppeltsfield. The milk and just about everything else is local, too.”
Seppeltsfield Road Distillers For the shiraz gin and tonics “A five-minute drive down the road from us – follow the palm trees – is Seppeltsfield Road Distillers distillers.com.au).(seppeltsfieldroadIt’sthebest
“Another place for cocktails is Contour at The Louise hotel (thelouise.com.au). But the cocktails are just part of it; the eatery also has a beautiful view and does great food, like the excellent burgers. It’s where a lot of us end up for an afterwork drink because it’s got such good vibes.”
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The Greenock For the schnitzel “You can’t go past the Greenock (thegreenock.com.au) for a solid place in the area if you’re after something other than a glass of wine. Their shiraz G&T is lovely and they also do a great Negroni using Adelaide Hills bitter orange aperitif instead of Campari.” Contour For the burgers
Swinging Bridge Caldwell Lane Block A Chardonnay
Planted in 1988, Tolpuddle is now in the capable hands of Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith of Shaw + Smith fame. This features pink grapefruit, white nectarine and lemongrass aromas with a vibrant farewell.
Wine List BY PETER BOURNE BY CRAIG WALL CHARDONNAYNEW-WAVE
PHOTOGRAPHY
STORY
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The Caldwell Lane vineyard sits at 900 metres, delivering a taut chardonnay with abundant stone fruit and guava flavours, its exuberance restrained by a mineral-laden acidity. Orange, NSW / 2019 / $65 Oakridge Chardonnay864 David Bicknell (almost) singlehandedly led chardonnay into the 21st century and his 864 is defined by precision, power and drive. The 2019 oozes grapefruit, melon and pink lady apple. Well-structured with an enticing complexity. Yarra Valley, Vic / 2019 / $90 Tolpuddle ChardonnayVineyard
Tasmania / 2021 / $95 Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay
Brian Croser is a chardonnay maestro. The wine was aged in one-third new oak with seven months on yeast lees. Intensity is the key, with peach and honeydew melon flavours, a lush texture and an impressive finish. Adelaide Hills, SA / 2021 / $110
Rumour is that chardonnay is trending again. It’s true – chardonnay has shaken off its uncool image and emerged as 2022’s gracious white swan. Sales of premium and superfine are booming, especially wines from Australia’s cooler regions. How are these “cool” chardonnays different from the oaky styles of 20 years ago? Oak is still an important part of top-notch chardonnay but here it appears in a supporting role rather than as a dominant flavour. It’s all about the fruit, with cool growing regions delivering citrus, apple and white stone fruit flavours. These conditions preserve the grape’s natural acidity, keeping things bright and lively. Where do the best wines come from? Victoria is the epicentre, from Beechworth to Melbourne’s “dress circle” – Geelong, Macedon Ranges, Gippsland, Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula. There’s also SA’s Adelaide Hills, Orange and Tumbarumba in NSW, and Tasmania. What brought about this U-turn? Maturity, both of our vineyards (older vines deliver intensity of flavour) and our winemakers – hands-off winemaking is all the go, with wild yeast ferments and minimal intervention. Should they be enjoyed young? No, in fact they age beautifully – five, 10, even 20 years for the very best. And chardonnay loves food, especially dishes with cream or butter. It’s the perfect foil to oily fish such as salmon and ocean trout. What’s the price point? $30-$50 gets you in the zone, with top drops heading to $100 plus. Penfolds Yattarna sells for $175.
It’s back and a lot less oaky than you might remember.
HotelHarbordtheatlocationonShot
Presented by Sail away Bask in secret sun-drenched isles, explode your tastebuds with street food straight from a sizzling wok and touch the edge of a glacier. Discover once-in-a-lifetime experiences aboard the world’s most luxurious fleet.
In between wandering through rare orchid gardens at Giardino Botanico Ponziano and splashing through underwater caves at Grotte di Pilato, sip a glass of earthy biancolella white wine at a charming local bar and nibble on sugar-soaked Neapolitan sponges from local pâtisseries. Or indulge in Michelin-starred waterfront dining at Acqua Pazza, where the shrimp carpaccio is non-negotiable. In Gozo, a honey-hued Maltese island, explore megalithic temples and the commanding Cittadella fortress. Hike dramatic clifftop trails that drop precipitously into the ocean and spot archaeological remains such as burial sites along the way. Its hidden sea caves also make for excellent kayaking. An overnight stay in Istanbul gives you time to luxuriate in a Turkish bath under a skylit dome, admire the towering minarets of Hagia Sophia and explore the scandalous history of the opulent Topkapi Palace. As you drift through the Aegean Sea, you’ll make pit stops at sun-bleached Greek isles. On iconic Santorini, don’t miss seeing the pink sunset from Akrotiri Lighthouse.
Lemnos, a new addition to the itinerary, is a quieter beauty. Sip a herbaceous limnio red – indigenous to the island, it’s one of the oldest surviving grape varieties – or an aromatic glass of muscat from Alexandria. Pair them with local cheeses like delicate fetta-esque kalathaki or melichloro, rich with notes of the island’s herbs, wildflowers and salty Aegean air.
Dining on board is just as indulgent. Enjoy Italian fare with a side of ocean views at Sette Mari at La Veranda. Or try the elegant continental cuisine such as escargots and pan-seared foie gras at Compass Rose, where even the silverware is Versace.
Rome Athens Hidden gems & shoresTurkish Departsnights 28 September 2024 Seven Seas Navigator Thread through islands rich in ancient treasures and secret lagoons at an unhurried pace on this Mediterranean cruise. Setting sail from Rome, you’ll travel south to Ponza, a moon-like island straight from a Fellini film (literally – the great director shot his movie Satyricon here). While other Italian islands such as Capri and Sicily steal the spotlight, Ponza has long been a hideaway of the rich and famous, who come entranced by its crystalline coves and elevated seafood.
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Presented by Regent Seven Seas Cruises
Istanbul Jerusalem Holy lands & historic sites 9 Departsnights August 2024 Seven Seas Voyager
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Cobblestoned streets, holy sites and majestic castles await on this nine-night cruise on Seven Seas Voyager from Istanbul to Jerusalem. Before setting sail, indulge in the heady scents of Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar in the historic Eminönü neighbourhood and buy kilim rugs and antique lanterns at the kaleidoscopic Grand Bazaar. As you weave along the stretch of coast known as the “Turkish Riviera”, you’ll anchor in the towns of Çeșme, Alanya and Didim, where you can see crumbling ancient ruins and awe-inspiring Byzantine castles. Or take a dip in Cleopatra Beach’s deep blue waters, just like the ancient Egyptian queen was said to do. In Cyprus, the sense of history is palpable – and it’s on full display at Limassol Archaeological Museum, which showcases artefacts from the Neolithic to the Roman periods. You’ll feel like you’ve entered a time warp in the UNESCO-listed city of Rhodes in Greece with its maze of medieval streets. Discover 7000 years of local history in the Archaeological Museum, housed in a 15th-century knights’ hospital. On board, further enrich your mind with a guest lecture and soothe it with a relaxing massage at Serene Spa & Wellness. Or take in the sun-drenched Mediterranean vistas over an alfresco lunch at La Veranda, which showcases regional specialities from around the Aegean, before sipping champagne in the Observation Lounge to the melodies of a cocktail pianist. Three days in Jerusalem allows plenty of time to explore the fabled Holy Land, including sacred sites like the 3000-year-old archaeological site City of David and the Western Wall. Here, believers of all faiths flock to kiss and behold the 2000-year-old stones, slipping pieces of paper with their prayers and wishes through cracks in the wall.
An unrivalled experience. rssc.com
Inspired by your travels, learn to prepare authentic local recipes and savour regional flavours under the tutelage of an expert chef in the Culinary Arts Kitchen on board. Or take advantage of fine dining at your fingertips with pan-Asian cuisine from restaurant Pacific Rim.
As you journey from the capital of Reykjavík through Icelandic ports of call on Seven Seas Splendor, you’ll soak in a forest-encircled geothermal pool in Akureyri, chase waterfalls in Seyðisfjörður and sea kayak through Ísafjörður’s misty fjords.
Final stop Heimaey affords puffin sightings and volcano hiking before returning to Reykjavík for late-night music, contemporary gallery hopping and high-end Icelandic cuisine.
Try the reindeer tartare at Michelin-starred Dill or have a nine-course dinner featuring monkfish at Kopar. The finale? A boat trip through Reykjavík’s Old Harbour in search of the Northern Lights.
Few destinations inspire awe like Iceland, where glacier-carved fjords and volcanic earth make you feel like you’re on the edge of the universe.
New stop Djúpivogur is a sleepy coastal village that lies under Mount Búlandstindur, an imposing pyramid-shaped basalt mountain. Tórshavn, the quirky capital of the Faroe Islands, is known for its fantasy-like scenery, with towering verdant cliffs and grass-roofed houses. An overnight stay means you can embrace the Faroese heimablídni (hospitality), with a hearty dégustation dinner and fermented foods hosted in the home of a local.
As you journey through the vast, tranquil waters of the Norwegian Sea, take an evening plunge in the onboard infinity pool – with the midnight sun still shining, it will be a surreal experience for your memory.
Presented by Regent Seven Seas Cruises An unrivalled experience. rssc.com Reykjavík Reykjavík SeaNorwegianinSplendourthe 10 Departsnights15 July 2024 Seven Seas Splendor
15 May 2024
Vancouver Vancouver Gold heritagerush 14 Departsnights
Pulsing Vancouver is the beginning and finale of this tour through the icy waters of the Gulf of Alaska. Boarding the luxurious Seven Seas Explorer – with art by Pablo Picasso on the walls and plush suites with fine Italian bedding and L’Occitane toiletries – you’ll traverse historic Alaskan towns, tidewater glaciers and wildlife-filled fjords. Glide through the misty, snow-capped ports of Wrangell, Juneau and Skagway before reaching Sitka, once the cultural and political hub of Russian America and dubbed the “Paris of the Pacific”. Immerse yourself in native Tlingit culture with a tribal tour or visit the Sitka National Historical Park, where totems stand among a towering forest in an eerie memorial to the tragic Battle of Sitka. From your private balcony onboard you’ll have prime viewing of the icy oceans, including the otherworldly Hubbard Glacier, the largest tidewater glacier in North America. Breathe in the crisp air as you spot seals lounging on ice, pods of orcas bobbing in the ocean, mountain goats traipsing across the slopes and eagles soaringAlongoverhead.theway, you’ll call into Ketchikan, where you can peruse local art galleries, gaze up at Native American totems and explore Creek Street, a historic boardwalk on stilts. As you cruise along the Inside Passage coastal route – 800 kilometres of pristine Alaskan wilderness – on your way back to Vancouver, enjoy the spoils of your ship, whether dining on decadent French cuisine in the regal Chartreuse restaurant or sinking into a Chesterfield armchair in the moody, atmospheric library, resplendent with literary volumes.
Seven Seas Explorer
Taste the punchy flavours of Phuket, sink your toes into Penang’s palm-fringed beaches and feast on spicy Goan curries as you sail from the Thai capital to glittering Dubai. Overnight stays in cosmopolitan Singapore and Dubai mean you can make time for designer shopping and Michelin-starred dining. But the street food of India, Malaysia, Sri Lanka and Thailand is just as irresistible. If you can tear yourself away from Phuket’s seemingly endless stretch of white-sand shore shaded by casuarinas and jungly mountains, head for the streets, which sizzle with the smell of coal-fired woks. Try rice with braised pork, fish congee, sweet pancakes, spicy tom yum soup or the oyster-based o-tao (order it extra spicy, as the locals do). In colourful Penang, ride a trishaw and explore hawker fare such as asam laksa or hokkien mee, before sniffing your way through 500 species of flora at the Tropical Spice Garden, staying for a cooking class. The melting pot of Indian and Portuguese cultures in Goa makes for pretty architecture and flavour-packed dining, with signatures such as fish curry, rich vindaloo and chorise, a spicy local sausage. Everything washes down well with feni, a local liqueur made with cashew fruit or coconut. The Indian paradise is also a beacon for spiritual seekers – why not unwind with reiki or yoga on one of its many goldenElevatebeaches?youralready zen mood with a soothing seaweed wrap at the ship’s Serene Spa & Wellness or a meditation session in the fitness centre. Days basking in the emerald panoramas of the Arabian sea turn into sparkling nights on board. Try your luck in the casino or enjoy sipping a rare vintage cognac in the Connoisseur Club.
Presented by Regent Seven Seas Cruises An unrivalled experience. rssc.com Bangkok Dubai Serene shores to peakssoaring 20 Departsnights26 April 2025 Seven Seas Voyager
11 February 2025 Seven Seas Voyager Island life beckons with sultry days, welcoming locals and an underwater playground made for adventuring on this cruise from New Zealand through French Polynesia. The Bay of Islands and Vanuatu are a diver’s paradise, with prime scuba diving in volcano-carved underwater caves. If your idea of heaven skews more toward sipping a beachside cocktail under swaying palm trees, that’s in high supply, too, at Fijian stops Lautoka and Suva. An overnight stay in picturesque Bora Bora allows you to relax in a tropical overwater
South revelryPacific bungalow, where turquoise waters are quite literally at (and underneath) your doorstep. Dive in to snorkel the purple coral reefs of Tupitipiti Point. As you island hop your way to Papeete, Tahiti, take advantage of the Voyager ’s many charms. Spend your days dining at the relaxed-chic Pool Grill or swinging your club at the putting green. Feeling fancy? Why not enjoy a musical backed by a five-piece orchestra in the grand Constellation Theatre.
Auckland Papeete 17 Departsnights
Start by exploring designer boutiques and dining at buzzy harbourside restaurants in Sydney to laneway bars and cutting-edge galleries in Melbourne. Switch gears in laidback Hobart, where you can leisurely cycle past colonial cottages and hike mountainous trails. Then it’s out to sea. Succumb to your cruise ship dreams, whether lounging poolside An unrivalled experience. rssc.com with a cocktail, plunging in the infinity pool kissed by the Tasman sea or ordering room service to your private balcony, drinking in the serenity of the views. Over in New Zealand you’ll dock at ports such as Akaroa, Napier and the Bay of Islands. Opt for a Gourmet Explorer Tour to experience local culinary culture up close, perhaps stocking up on ingredients at a market to cook delicious regional dishes or sipping cool-climate wines at a boutique winery.
Presented by Regent Seven Seas Cruises
Sydney Auckland A DownholidayUnder 14 Departsnights
Seven Seas Explorer On this Seven Seas Explorer cruise, you’ll float at sea for five blissful days in between jaunting around Australia’s capitals and New Zealand’s geothermal wonderlands.
20 December 2024
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80 Check in to one of these extraordinary stays The Mirrorcube, Sweden
BIGGO SUN, SURF, SLEEPING AT THE EDGE OF A VOLCANO AND… SNOW. ON HAWAII’S BIG ISLAND, FAITH CAMPBELL EXPLORES THE UNEXPECTED (BUT THE SHAKAS REMAIN). PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN KUNKEL Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
“The canoe is the elder in our family. When we go out today, working together, we welcome you to our family,” says Keanu, who’s steering the boat on our sunrise paddle at Mauna Lani (hotel. qantas.com.au/maunalaniauberge). You could convince me of almost anything at 6.30am but the resort’s family feeling is genuine.
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“Are you guys Australian? I can tell by your boots!” We’re up early to hike the Crater Rim Trail and a man who looks like Smokey Bear strides toward us. “Have you seen the lava yet?”
Over two-ish hours, we followed paths through dense ferns, brushed golden grasses and skirted cracks in the ground that billowed steam. I’d inched toward sheer lookouts, gazed into the ashen pit and wondered how much notice a volcano gives. Tiny birds the colours of flames flitted between flowers like fireworks. But no lava. I tell Smokey about the hotel, how from our bed we can see the glow reflected in the clouds. “The best place is from Devastation car park,” he reveals, unfolding our map. “Early in the morning or in the evening. You can sometimes hear it.”
The stage is empty and quiet, spot-lit blue. Tiny flecks of life whorl in the light. Afraid to miss something, I’m watching the nothingness intently when two phantoms sweep into the scene – strong, graceful and impossible to miss. They dance a do-si-do in the silence, oblivious to the audience. I honk into my snorkel. Manta rays are way bigger than I expected. In one mirrored movement, they arc towards the light source – a floating board I’m clinging to with 11 other wet-suited spectators. Face down, feet on pool noodles, we’re splayed out on the surface like a daisy. One of the enormous slippery pancakes skims my knuckles as it exits stage left. Every night human daisies are scattered across the water off this bit of the Kona coast of Hawaii (aka the Big Island). “The first rule: do not touch the manta rays!” our captain from Sea Quest Hawaii (seaquesthawaii.com) bellows on the 10-minute transfer to the Keauhou Bay float site. “The second rule? Do. Not. Touch. The. Manta. Rays!” Clutching GoPros, waterproof smartphones and each other, our boat’s manifest lists passengers from Dallas (“I bowled my best game there!” says the captain) and all over the United States, Germany (“Never been but I’d like to!”) and Sydney – he has cousins there but my boyfriend and I don’t know them. This is Kona’s Great Barrier Reef, its gorillas in the mist. The bay’s cliffside resort (now an Outrigger property) first shone a spotlight into the depths in the 1970s to give guests sea views at night. You can still see mantas from dry land if you’re staying there, while the business of getting into the water with them is now a well-regulated machine. I forget the scariness of jumping off a boat in the dark and the awkwardness of bumping legs with strangers, only tuning in to the guides shouting that these gentle giants feed on the plankton that’s attracted to the light, that they grow to have a wingspan of four metres or more and can live for decades. About 12 show up during our 30-minute stint and I honk into my snorkel every time. The 45-minute flight from Oahu to Kona passes Moloka’i, Lanai and Maui before barrelling towards a runway carved into a black lava field. No towering beachside resorts or tourist strip, just a very chill airport with hardly any walls and a warm sea breeze. Kona may be the Big Island’s tourist hub but it’s nothing like Honolulu. “You’re on the sunny side,” says Renell at the Enterprise desk proudly when we pick up a rental car for the week. “Hilo is on the rainy side.” We head north through the craggy landscape, a spooky reminder of the island’s volcanic heartbeat. A bumper sticker ahead reads “Big Island Love” and I crack up when a shaka reaches out to signal a merge. At points along the shore, coconut palms shade luxury resorts and we take the turn-off to our oasis after 45 minutes.
In the David Lynchian town of Volcano, a five-minute drive from the park gates, we find the Tuk-Tuk Thai Food Truck parked (Clockwise from top left) The cultural centre, the exterior, an outrigger canoe and a palm-shaded outdoor area at the Mauna Lani resort
Kids spend all day in the water and everyone else drifts between sand, pool, lunch, a nap, dinner and the open-air bar. The manta rays are the only compelling reason I find to break the routine. On the way out of town, we stop in Kona’s industrial outskirts after a hot tip from a local to try the tuna poke at Umekes (umekesrestaurants.com). We sit outside with hipsters wearing technical sandals ironically and hikers wearing them for practicality, our duelling forks raised over the fiddlehead fern salad. At the end of the street, past the bike-share stand, the beer garden at the Kona Brewing Company (konabrewingco.com) is packed.
Perched on the rim of a volcano that last erupted in 2018, Volcano House Hotel (hawaiivolcanohouse.com) has thwarted danger since 1941. While I stare out the window of our crater view room, a kid FaceTimes with their grandma in the hallway (“Do you know where we’re at? The laaava house!”). My back to the door, I get a photo of the king-sized bed and steaming Kīlauea in the background.
Set in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (nps.gov), about two hours drive from Kona, this hotel is the kind of place where families have rolled up in station wagons since they had wood panelling down the sides. Every room on the south-west wall lets you peer into the maw of the geological giant and I take dozens of bad photos trying to bottle the magic for later.
A sign above the bar reads “Liquid Aloha” and the Big Wave Golden Ale really is both a warm welcome and a fond farewell.
72 HNL Qantas flies from Sydney to Honolulu. qantas.com at a dead end. It’s busy so we eat spring rolls in the sun until our pad thai and pineapple curry is ready. The cold spring rain comes heavy in the mid-afternoon and when we pull into Devastation car park at dusk, rangers are directing traffic. It’s a 15-minute walk to the caldera and we schlep through the wet with hikers in rain gear and parents pushing plastic-covered prams.
As we climb, it’s like driving from a tropical paradise to Mars. Finally, the rocky peak’s utilitarian function is revealed: 13 telescopes used by 19 countries, arranged in a mechanical tribute to the heavens. We leave the car, bracing against the wind to watch the sun sneak under a blanket of cloud. Back in the warmth, Cool Change plays on the radio as we wait for nightfall and Jocelyn tells us about her work as an astronomer. Turns out guiding is her side hustle. On the descent, at Andras’ secret stargazing spot, it’s below freezing and my muscles knot as I crane my neck to follow the laser pointer he’s wielding at the freckled sky. I’m shivering beside the truck when Jocelyn waves me over.
“The thunder rumbling really adds to the drama,” someone says. We stand behind a rope and stare at a swamp of molten rock boiling in the not-so-distance. “I can’t figure out if it’s thunder or the volcano,” says another. Heading back to the car, I tell a soaked ranger that I can’t believe my eyes. “Bucket list!” he exclaims. “See new land being born – tick!” The sun’s high as we wander Hilo’s heritage downtown, the streets lined with weatherboard buildings from its sugar-plantation past. They’re now vintage stores, a wildly good restaurant called Moon & Turtle (51 Kalākaua Street; +1 808 961 0599), poke places and coffee shops. We sit in a park by the broad bay, sharing a bento box from Hilo Lunch Shop (421 Kalanikoa Street; +1 808 935 8273). Our horizon-facing room at the Grand Naniloa Resort (hotel. qantas.com.au/grandnaniloahilo), a monument of bright white Modernism, stays warm long past golden hour, when we drink sundowners on the balcony or blue cocktails at the lobby bar. The hotel’s pool and the lava rock pools along its private shoreline only empty out if it’s raining or dark. At 3.05pm in the lobby, it’s 27°C and I’m wearing shorts and a T-shirt. By 5.50pm there’s snow at my feet. “You guys know Arnott’s – the biscuits! This company is his grandson Doug’s,” says Andras, our guide from Arnott’s Lodge & Adventure Tours (arnottslodge.com). He’s driving us to the summit of Mauna Kea, the highest point in the Pacific, fellow guide Jocelyn beside him. It’s the fastest land-based ascent from sea level to 4200 metres on the planet (there and back in five hours) and we stop halfway to acclimatise to the altitude and change into thermals. “People do a lot of things in Hawaii they’d never think of doing at home,” says Andras. Originally from Hungary, he lost his home to Kīlauea in 2018. “I was cooking dinner when the thing erupted in my backyard.”
“They say the North Star is one shaka distance from the horizon,” she says, her arm outstretched to demonstrate. “That’s how you know you’re in Hawaii.”
(From top) A streetscape in Hilo; poke from Umekes in Kona; the Volcano House Hotel
BROOME WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Escape to Eco Beach.
ecobeach.com.au
Ngaji Gurrjin (Welcome) to Eco Beach Wilderness Retreat, Located 130 kilometres South of Broome in the heart of Yardoogarra, set amidst the pristine coastline of Cape Villaret.
FRENCHLESSONS PARIS IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA, OR SO THE SAYING GOES. BUT IS THAT STILL THE CASE WHEN ACCOMPANIED BY YOUR KIDS? DILVIN YASA FINDS OUT. BYPHOTOGRAPHY RAQUEL GUIU
(Above and left) Family fun at the summer Fête des Tuileries
“Everything looks really pretty, Mum, but when can we get Nutella crêpes?” adds my eight-year-old.
The Eiffel Tower – a testament to French industrial ingenuity to some, a monument that holds a mirror up to all your parental failings to others. Pro tip: get off at Trocadéro metro station for the best “Eiffel-casually-in-the-background” photos. Unsuccessful in our attempts to purchase tickets online some five weeks beforehand, we arrive at the tower early only to find an hours-long queue snaking around the base. “Puh-lease, the French hated it when it was first built, anyway,” I tell my crestfallen kids as I usher them over to Instagram heaven, Rue de l'Université, for more photos. “Besides, the Eiffel Tower is far from the city’s only major landmark.” With mother guilt firmly in place, we tear around the city like Amazing Race contestants to hit up every “Parisy thing” (in the words of my eight-year-old) we can find. There’s a two-hour Bateaux Parisiens lunch cruise (bateauxparisiens.com), which is like a “greatest hits” of the city, sailing past all the landmarks, including Notre-Dame, as we dine on a decadent four-course lunch. “Probably would have looked nicer had it not half burnt down,” my 13-year-old quips in the understatement of the trip.
MUSEUM MADNESS Although it’s tempting to kick off with the Catacombs of Paris (catacombes.paris.fr), our little one becomes terrified at the idea so we start with an early morning visit to the Louvre (louvre.fr) instead. You can book guided tours, treasure hunts or download
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THE CLASSICS
I have loved Paris for more years than I care to mention, first falling under its spell as a penniless teenaged backpacker. I have enjoyed the city with lovers, on work trips and – my favourite – gleefully solo but now, as I fly in with my young family for the first time, I feel a stir of mixed emotions. There’s excitement that I’m finally able to show my daughters (aged eight and 13) the elegant settings that form so many of my ridiculous travel stories. There’s trepidation over whether there will be enough to do to cater for their particular age groups. My biggest question? Can I make Paris work as a family holiday destination without having to visit Disneyland? Armed with a booking at Hotel Bedford (hotel-bedford.com) – chosen for its spacious, interconnecting rooms and central 8th arrondissement location – we discover the answer is an enthusiastic, “Oui!”
kids’ audio tours but we find the museum stressful and chaotic. “That’s it?” my eight-year-old splutters as she cranes her head to look at Mona Lisa . “Why is it so… small?” My teenager shrugs in the way that all teenagers do and mutters something about, “[da Vinci] knew a guy who knew a guy – it’s no better than anything else that’s here.”
There’s playtime at the carousels and trampolines at Jardin des Tuileries (plus post-crêpe sleepy time on the reclining chairs at Jardin du Luxembourg) and when the lure of the Eiffel grows too strong, I pull out my trump card: online tickets to climb the Arc de Triomphe (paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr). With 284 steps to get to the top, climbing the monument to its panoramic terrace is not for every kid (if there’s one way to accurately describe the heavy breathing coming from the stairwell, it’s “Darth Vader on a treadmill”) but, happily, it also has a lift. Booking tickets online at least two months prior will see you skip most of the queues.
Obligatory walk-by of the famous – and clearly underwhelming artwork – done and dusted, we soon decamp to the excellent Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie (cite-sciences.fr), the largest science museum in Europe. Here, the kids explore new frontiers for video gaming, gastronomy and space then run riot on the perfectly landscaped Parc de la Villette, the gargantuan park on which the museum sits. My children have a request of their own, of course: a visit to Choco-Story (museeduchocolat.fr), a chocolate museum in the 10th Arrondissement that serves up educational tours and chocolate-making workshops among chocolatiers. Oh, would you look at that? It seems we’ve run out of time.
– a popular vote from everyone. In each instance, we swoon with the pleasure of eating so many carbs. “This is the best thing about Paris!” my eldest daughter exclaims with every bite of a Maison Julien baguette. The steak frites filling, we agree, is the best flavour combination.
When you’re raising a family of gourmands, the cost of dining out (with teens particularly) can quickly become eye-watering in Paris.
TO MARKET, TO MARKET Nothing says “teen fashion” quite like dressing as though you’re fronting a Seattle grunge band and away from the high-end boutiques of Triangle d’Or and Rue de Rivoli, Paris is a haven of flea markets and vintage stores. A walk along the Champs-Élysées and around Place de la Madeleine is essential to give the younger members of your family a chance to sneer at "the bourgeoisie” (and also to get in some quick shopping yourself) but then it’s a metro ride north to Porte de Clignancourt, the world's largest antiques market. Here, among a sea of Art Deco furniture and second-hand Chanel purses, we spend hours rifling through old
FOODIE CHALLENGE
(From above left) Café Saint Honoré, near the Louvre; the Tuileries Garden; Bulle bubble tea shop in Le Marais
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“Look, Mum, there’s a La Truffière,” my 13-year-old squeals with the enthusiasm of someone with no intention of footing the bill for a $29 foie gras with truffle starter. The best way to get around this is with a daily food challenge. We decide that each member of the family must research which boulangerie/pâtisserie/café has won merde -loads of awards, such as “the best baguettes of Paris”, “the best croissant of 2021”, and then we would go in search of the fabled – and in most cases, affordable – local delicacy. We hit up Maison Julien (maisonjulien.com), a bakery in the 17th arrondissement that was awarded the title of best baguette in Paris in 2020, and La Maison d’Isabelle, winner of the best croissant in 2018. Famous patisserier Cédric Grolet Le Meurice (cedric-grolet.com) – winner of The World’s Best Pastry Chef 2018 – is next, followed by crêperie Breizh Café (breizhcafe.com)
BOUILLON BOUNTY According to children the world over, parents are as fashionable as listening to A-ha on an eight-track tape but there is one way to boost your Parisian street cred: leading the family to the nearest (From left) Pâtisserie favourite macarons; retro-style souvenirs bouillon. Made popular over a century ago, a bouillon is essentially a restaurant that serves cheap French classics – steak frites, beef bourguignon and the occasional boiled calf head – in a large space specialising in a convivial atmosphere and a speedy turnover. These days diners will wait for hours outside just to nab a seat at the likes of Bouillon Julien (bouillon-julien.com) and Bouillon ChartierFamilies(bouillon-chartier.com).areanadvantagehere, since most of the bouillons – with the exception of Bouillon Julien – refuse to take reservations and we’re likely to be dining before 6pm (you know it’s true). We eat at Bouillon Chartier, a bustling space where waiters write orders on paper tablecloths and chefs churn out salads for a single euro, and Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond (petitbouillonpharamond.com), an Art Nouveau establishment once frequented by Ernest Hemingway. Both are winners but less successful is Bouillon Pigalle (bouillonlesite.com). Not only is it located within the red-light district (a conversation about calf heads is a cakewalk compared to this) but it is LOUD. So loud we barely hear the waiter spit, “You don’t need a menu. I am the menu.” My kids refuse to try the escargot, insisting on eating their body weight in steak frites, cheese and bread, and of course, those aforementioned crêpes.
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CDG Qantas flies from Sydney, Melbourne and Perth to London, with connecting flights on partner airlines to Paris. qantas.com toys, costume jewellery and items of moth-scented clothing that look as though they’ve tangled with a lawnmower. Visits to Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves and Les Puces de Montreuil prove two things: they are far more manageable, size-wise, and far kinder on the hip pocket. Top tip? When your eight-year-old grows bored, treat them to a Nutella crêpe and promise to swing by cool young fashion chain Bonton (bonton.fr) afterwards. Arriving at the historic district of Le Marais to flex our consumer muscles around Rue Vieille-du-Temple and Rue des Francs Bourgeois, we discover many stores remain closed until 11am. Fortunately, visits to Vintage Désir (thevintedge.com), one of the city’s favourite secondhand stores, and Bulle (bulle-marais.com), a cherry blossom-covered bubble tea shop, make up for it. My teen comes away from Porte de Clignancourt market with a decades-old crochet top and costume jewellery from the 1960s and I load up on brightly coloured leather handbags. My greatest find? “Gently used” Chanel earrings that look brand new. I’m ashamed to admit it but we make a stop at Westfield Forum des Halles where we all go nuts at H&M.
“I’m researching… like you,” my youngest insists when I try to cut off her supply. “Then one day I can write an article and tell them who has the best chocolate crêpes in Paris.”
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SYDNEY LILYPAD PALM BEACH
Gives new meaning to home being girt by sea. Anderson is very proud that Lilypad is in Palm Beach. “It rivals any landscape in the world.”
Is this really a house on water? It is and owner Chuck Anderson says the new Lilypad Palm Beach (lilypadpalmbeach.com.au) is better than ever, having been rebuilt after a fire damaged the original in 2020. It’s still in the same spot, floating on the tranquil waters of Palm Beach about an hour’s drive north of central Sydney, and can even be reached by seaplane from Rose Bay. What’s different this time around? “Our entire design aesthetic has changed,” says Anderson. “We’ve gone with a Mediterranean style, neutral tones and smooth flowing lines. We opted to use natural, lime-based renders throughout in a raw finish, with imperfections and trowel marks. I think it adds so much warmth and character to a space.”
The interior décor includes handmade terracotta pieces from McMullin & Co. and linen bedding by Cultiver. Most of the activities are water-based, right? The water’s usually between 17°C and 21°C so there’s no bad time for a swim (especially after visiting the onboard sauna). Guests can also use a self-drive private tender to explore local beaches, go paddleboarding or indulge in a massage or beauty treatment. “An all-inclusive floating villa with an onboard sauna doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world so that in itself is reason enough to visit.” What’s the food like? For starters, there are chef-prepared meals, such as barbecues with organic grainfed eye fillet steak, paired with wines from the complimentary onboard cellar, which is made up of a curated selection of French champagne and reds, whites and rosés from around Australia. “To have a sauna, slip into the ocean for a swim then warm up again by the fireplace with a glass of red – it doesn’t get much better.”
SWEDEN THE MIRRORCUBE Mirror, mirror... in a tree? It does sound weird but The Mirrorcube (treehotel.se) in the far north of Sweden is a 4 x 4 x 4-metre room surrounded by mirrors in a towering pine tree. Stranger still, the walls and floor inside are plywood and the tree’s trunk is enclosed by an aluminium frame. So it’s a box in a tree. Essentially. But there’s a comfy double bed, toilet and lounge chairs, plus a balcony hidden behind the mirror façade that allows you to go outside without being seen. Who came up with this? That’d be Bolle Tham and Martin Videgård, co-founders and lead architects of awardwinning firm Tham & Videgård. According to them, The Mirrorcube explores the relationship between humans and nature and how nature can be equally enticing and challenging. It’s in a forest? Sure is. The cube is an hour by car from Luleå, which is about a 90-minute flight from Stockholm and just 50 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle. You can also arrive by helicopter in 25 minutes from Luleå. Does it have electricity and water? It does and there’s a strong emphasis on sustainability, with the Rukkamoinika water system recycling three litres of the good stuff for washing your hands, ensuring no waste. And it has free wi-fi, too. Anything to do outside of the cube? Plenty. You’ll find a restaurant nearby serving Swedish cuisine. There are also guided walks, village tours, kayaking, a sauna, jacuzzi, visits to a moose park and even pizzamaking, as well as trips to an alpaca farm and a “bear dinner” with local Sami people, where you can sample bear meat around a fire.
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NEW YORK COLLECTIVE GOVERNORS ISLAND
Can you go camping in the Big Apple? Yes, at Collective Governors Island (collectiveretreats.com), on a 70-hectare isle situated between Manhattan and Brooklyn. The idea is to connect people with beautiful communities and environments, says Collective Retreats’ Vanessa Vitale. “We want to rethink travel, make it more authentic and more grounded and remove the barriers between our guests and the world around them.” New York’s pretty glamorous – is this roughing it? Aside from hot water, electricity, bedside power sockets and wi-fi, the Journey+ Tents have private bathrooms that are stocked with Byredo amenities and tended to by a dedicated valet. There are also king or double twin beds with 1500 thread-count linen. Do you have to stay in a tent? Not if you don’t want to. The Outlook Shelter has a private spa bathroom with a soaking tub and two private terraces with views of the Statue of Liberty. But the island must be hard to get to? Not at all –Governors Island is accessible by ferry from Manhattan and Brooklyn, with the trip taking about eight minutes. Apart from sleeping, what else is there to do on the island? Quite a bit. You can choose from wellness activities, tastings and culinary workshops, in-tent massages, games on the Great Lawn, bike rides around the island, s’mores by the campfire and more. S’mores? They’re just the tip of the culinary iceberg. Chefs curate menus focusing on seasonal ingredients from local family farms, such as oak-grilled organic chicken and grilled or charcoal-roasted fruit. There’s even a dinner series featuring high-profile chefs, such as Paul Liebrandt. This all sounds very Instagrammable. Indeed, especially with a breakfast basket brought to your tent and the New York skyline in the background.
Is it possible for a trip to the desert to be refreshing? It is at Amangiri (aman.com). General manager Audrey Huttert explains that the 360-hectare resort is at the centre of the highest concentration of national parks, monuments and tribal parks, such as the Grand Canyon and Zion National Park, in the United States. Amangiri –the name means “Peaceful Mountain” – has a wellness focus. How so? To begin with, there’s the 2322-square-metre spa, its menu drawing on Navajo healing traditions, like sage smudging to clear negative energy and restore hózhó, Navajo for “beauty, harmony, balance and health”. Many of the 34 suites have their own pools, the 348-square-metre Amangiri Suite boasting an 18-metre swimming pool with floating steps to walk across it. There are yoga and Pilates studios, a fitness centre and even a library on an elevated plinth at the centre of an open-air pavilion. Are the activities equally relaxing? They can be. Huttert says the variety of experiences is one of her favourite things about the resort, from hiking, rock climbing and traversing the resort’s Cave Peak aerial staircase 122 metres above the ground to exploring Lake Powell by kayak or jetski and horseriding high above the maze of ridges and canyons that surround the resort. Let’s discuss food. Meals and non-alcoholic beverages are included (except for Mesa Home reservations and private dining experiences), with an emphasis on fresh ingredients respecting the Native American cultures of the area, including field greens and salmon and more unusual items such as pickled cactus, slow-braised pastured buffalo and elk tartare. You can dine in desert-view and fireside lounges, in the main or private dining rooms and in a 6000-year-old cave.
UTAH AMANGIRI
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Are we talking about a beach resort in the desert? The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh (oberoihotels.com) has it all. Silki Sehgal from The Oberoi Group says you should think of it more as an oasis, with an amalgamation of Islamic, Moorish and African architecture incorporating domes, arches, open courtyards with fountains and eight-pointed stars. How luxurious is it? It’s fit for ancient Egyptian and modern royalty, with 102 suites (not mere rooms) ranging from 85 to 225 square metres and offering uninterrupted views of the Red Sea. The Royal and Grand suites also have six-metre private pools. Sounds idyllic. What’s there to do? Apart from camel and horseback rides, there
86 are 4WD desert safaris, yacht cruises, day trips to Luxor and its ancient tombs and temples, a pool, spa and gym, three restaurants (including a poolside pergola) serving Egyptian, Indian and international cuisine, diving and a hair salon. Diving? Of course. There’s a reef just off the property’s pier, teeming with marine life. The water is warm year-round. Can you have diving lessons? Yes and instructors can accompany you on day, night and private dives around the reef and beyond. As Sehgal says, “The history behind the naming of the Red Sea is still a mystery but it has a magnetic pull on all those who touch its waters and come back asking for more.”
EGYPT THE OBEROI SAHL HASHEESH
TastesAlohaof Presented by
One of the best things about Hawai‘i? The food. From garlicbutter prawns served from a beachside food truck to mahi-mahi pulled fresh from the ocean, Hawai‘i offers unique flavours and each island has a vibe of its own.
Best of the brunch
The epic award winner
O‘ahu
In an unassuming brick corner building in Honolulu’s Chinatown, you’ll find Fête (fetehawaii. com), a neighbourhood eatery where chef Robynne Mai’i serves seasonal New American fare. Her menu, she says, celebrates “all our favourite things we enjoy eating and drinking” like ragu, risotto and rocky road ice-cream, and name-checks 25 local suppliers or “community partners” she works with. Mai’i is clearly doing something right: this year she became Hawai‘i’s first female chef to win the James Beard Award, which recognises exceptional talent in the culinary arts. Last year she also added her flair to Heyday (heydayhawaii.com) – a retro bamboo bar with swing chairs – and an alfresco eatery at Waikīkī’s newly renovated White Sands Hotel (whitesandshotel.com).
At Lee Anne Wong’s island-style brunch house, Koko Head Café (kokoheadcafe.com), about 4.5 kilometres east of Waikīkī, she showcases local ingredients in Chinese, Japanese and Koreanskewed dishes. Order the poke omelette or her spin on loco moco (a Hawaiian comfort food combo of rice, hamburger patty, brown gravy and fried egg) that includes tempura kimchi. Wong’s favourite O‘ahu eatery? “ Waiahole Poi Factory [waiaholepoifactory.com],” she says. “It looks like a barn on the side of the road. They source their kalo [taro] locally and process it out back; their squid lu’au [a kalo and coconut milk stew] is incredible; their laulau [meat cooked in taro leaves] is delicious and if they happen to have the smoked meat, get as much of it as you can.”
Look beyond the Waikīkī waterfront and you’ll find that O‘ahu dishes up fare ranging from the simple – like sugar-coated doughnuts – to the sophisticated. Clockwise from top: O‘ahu; Fête; malasadas; Waiahole Poi Factory; North Shore Crêpes Café
Presented by Hawai‘i Tourism
Sweet tooth O‘ahu baked goods are hot stuff. In Honolulu, Leonard’s Bakery (leonardshawaii.com) is famous for malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts). Coco Puffs – tiny choux pastries stuffed with choc pudding and crowned with gooey frosting – are a must-order at Liliha Bakery’s four locations (lilihabakery.com). Fancy something a little cooler? Swing by Matsumoto Shave Ice (matsumotoshaveice.com) where you can dig into a sweet, hypercolour bowl of Hawai‘i’s most iconic treat. gohawaii.com/au
Get a jump-start on food trucks Street food doesn’t get any more delicious than at the Hale‘iwa food truck lot. Besides Giovanni’s famous garlic-butter prawns, there’s North Shore Crê pes Cafe’s version (north shorecrepescafe.com) where garlic prawns are nestled on a crepe with tomato, avocado, spinach and pesto. Return to Honolulu via the Kahuku Sugar Mill food trucks (just past Turtle Bay Resort) and stop by Papi’s Tacos, which serves specials such as fried frog leg tacos, and Kalena’s Hut, famous for barbecue lunch plates like the teriyaki chicken and Kalua pork with cabbage.
There’s a reason celebrities flock to Maui – they can lie low while the farm-to-table cuisine and inventive drinks hog the spotlight. The spot for seafood
The local icon When celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon left his last high-end kitchen in 2020, fans started queuing for his new food – like mochiko chicken marinated in “world-class” Big Island ginger – at Tin Roof (tinroofmaui.com), a takeaway-only joint in Maui’s north coast hub of Kahului. Here, he celebrates produce such as Maui cabbage, adding a pinch of the “unsung hero” to almost every dish. Simeon added a second venture in July, taking over Tiffany’s (tiffanysmaui.com), a Wailuku neighbourhood institution about seven minutes drive from Tin Roof. “I’ve been taking my family there for years,” he says, adding that his Tiffany’s dinner menu incorporates Hawaiian, Puerto Rican, Filipino, Korean, Chinese and Portuguese influences. Try the house fried rice, speckled with egg, bacon and Spam.
In 1973, after Floyd and Doris Christenson had sailed around Polynesia aboard a twomasted sailboat for four years, they poured their newfound knowledge into Mama’s Fish House (mamasfishhouse.com) – now a landmark seafood restaurant on Maui’s north shore. From the beginning, their focus was on showcasing fresh Maui fish and to this day, the menu still lists who caught what and where. For instance, the ahi, served with caramelised Maui onions, baby bok choy and avocado, was “caught by Donnevin Polendey near our deep ocean buoys”. Before it was encrusted in macadamia nuts, the mahi-mahi was “caught by Noah Berger along the shores of Kuau Cove”. Enjoy it all from this beachfront restaurant that overlooks Kū‘au Bay.
Clockwise from top left: Tin Roof; Mama’s Fish House; Tin Roof; Fleetwood’s on Front St.
Sips and sundowners Maui is a bolthole for celebrities, including Fleetwood Mac’s Mick Fleetwood, who occasionally pops into his Fleetwood’s on Front St. bar and restaurant (fleetwoods onfrontst.com) in Lahaina. Book for happy hour on the beachside rooftop and sip a Spicy Lilikoi Margarita bursting with flavours of passionfruit, chili and lime. North at Ka’anapali, Hula Grill’s (hulagrillkaanapali.com) Barefoot Bar is the only place pouring Barefoot Brew – amber ale spiked with macadamia nut blossom organic honey. Head inland to MauiWine (mauiwine.com) to taste wines made from estate-grown grapes, pineapple and raspberries. Hali’imaile Distilling Company (haliimailedistilling.com), in Maui’s pineapple country, uses the tropical fruit in its Paniolo Blended Whiskey.
Maui
Find your perfect Hawaiian holiday and earn or use Qantas Points at qantas.com/holidays/hawaii
Local produce at iconic venues
The Island of Hawai‘i takes pride in its old-school ways, making it the best place to chow down on classic comfort food. In Hilo, visit the Kawamoto Store (kawamotostore.com), an okazuya (Japanese deli) where workers have been picking up plantation-style lunch boxes since 1947.
Nearby Café 100 (cafe100.com) is said to be the home of loco moco. The café’s 30-plus varieties include grilled fish or Spam loco. Spam has also been turned into delicious dishes at L&L Hawaiian Barbecue (hawaiianbarbecue.com), a popular chain found throughout the islands. Slurp the Spam saimin – a noodle soup topped with Spam that’s unique to Hawai‘i.
Clockwise from top left: Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa; Merriman’s; cocoa pods; lomi salmon; Kona coffee
IslandHawai‘iof
“We dance because we’re communing with ancestors.” Hula is performed by men and women at lū‘aus throughout the Hawaiian Islands but Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa’s (outrigger.com) lū‘au comes with a difference.
With its retro eateries and unhurried pace of life, it can feel like time is standing still – which makes Hawai‘i’s largest island the perfect place to enjoy the old-school classics. gohawaii.com/au
Before the show, try your hand at ancient crafts such as ’ohe kapala (bamboo stamping used to decorate kapa cloth) and kui lei (lei making). You’ll also sit down for a family-style meal of sliced papaya and pineapple, smoked island fish dip, and taro and sweet potato chips, followed by lū‘au classics like Kalua pig and lomi salmon.
Presented by Hawai‘i Tourism
Sip Kona coffee at a coffee farm Kona’s microclimate and volcanic soil produces world-famous full-bodied coffee. While Kona brews are widely available throughout Hawai‘i, there’s nothing quite like sipping it farm-to-cup at the source. At Sunshower Farms (sunshower coffee.com), take a deep-dive into the production process, starting with an orchard tour, tasting coffee cherries straight from the tree. On the lanai (patio), enjoy a coffee cupping experience and compare at least five different coffees. Taste the classics
In the mid-1980s, when Peter Merriman was being interviewed to run an Island of Hawai‘i resort restaurant, he promised to deliver “regional cuisine”, only to find that sourcing local ingredients was easier said than done. He travelled to farms and fishing docks to meet with producers, encouraging his culinary peers to do the same. Today, this Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine pioneer has his name on four eateries throughout the islands with his signature Merriman’s (merrimanshawaii.com/waimea)restaurantfound in up-country Waimea. The menu proudly lists nearby producers like Kahua Ranch (lamb) and Hirabara Farms (lettuce). Attend a lū‘au with a twist “When we dance, we dance because it’s our life and it tells our stories,” says Micah Kamohoali’i, Island of Hawai‘i cultural ambassador, fashion designer and kumu hula (master hula teacher).
Sample a superfood
With dramatic sea cliffs and valleys lush with taro and healing plants, the wild Garden Island will revive you in every way. Soak up the sunset Grab drinks from the Makai Grill at the Princeville Makai Golf Club (makaigolf.com), pop them into your golf cart’s cooler and savour the sights on the Sunset Golf Cart Tour. Keep an eye out for nesting albatross and the state bird, nēnē (Hawaiian goose), which has feet that evolved to grip rough lava rock, as you mosey towards the clifftop seventh hole to see the sun’s golden rays gild Makana Mountain.
Clockwise from top left: Kauai Farmacy; Kauai Farmacy; Kaua‘i ; Hanalei Taro; Ko’a Kea Resort lobster Get up-close with natural wonders
Kaua‘i
There’s no better place to contemplate why Kaua‘i is nicknamed the Garden Island than at Kauai Farmacy (shop.kauaifarmacy.com), a seed-to-table, farm-to-apothecary set-up tucked into the North Shore. In the hills of Kilauea, former city slickers Doug and Genna Wolkon have transformed a 1.6-hectare horse paddock into organic gardens and orchards bursting with medicinal plants. Take a seat on the lanai for a Kaua‘i-grown tea tasting and sample serums, herbal tinctures and herbinfused honeys. Hit up the farm store for superfood powders, spices, salves and balms – and see if one of the most popular items, the heart-opening Love Potion tea, featuring raw cacao, is in stock.
Find your perfect Hawaiian holiday and earn or use Qantas Points at qantas.com/holidays/hawaii
Local ingredients that delight At Ko‘a Kea Resort’s (koakea.com) Red Salt restaurant, you’ll find Kaua‘i-born chef Noelani Planas busy reworking the classics. A favourite ingredient, Kona lobster, is featured in a breakfast lobster benedict drizzled with mango and chive hollandaise; at dinnertime, it’s the star of a risotto and burger already loaded with Wagyu beef, pineapple and smoked bacon. Salad greens, mushrooms and root vegetables are sourced locally, while Kaua‘i’s own Kōloa rum spices up a pineapple upside-down cake. A US$5-million resort refresh this year added more local flavour to guestrooms, with bed headboards referencing the island’s dazzling gardens and nature.
Most of Hawai‘i’s kalo (taro) is grown on Kaua‘i and the best place to sample the superfood root vegetable is at Lyndsey Haraguchi-Nakayama’s Hanalei Taro & Juice Co (hanaleitaro.com) food truck. Enjoy the Hawaiian staple in a smoothie or veggie burger, as hummus, mochi cake or poi (a sweet-sour paste that’s often an acquired taste) on a plate lunch. And don’t leave without picking up a slab of the fudge-like dessert, kūlolo. Made from the lehua (red) kalo variety, “it takes over 14 hours to make”, says the fifth-generation farmer. “We’re one of the few families left on the island that still persevere in doing it.”
REMOTE, HUGE (THE SIZE OF FRANCE AND GERMANY COMBINED) AND SPARSELY POPULATED, NAMIBIA’S NOT THE FIRST PLACE YOU THINK OF FOR A ROAD TRIP –UNLESS YOU’RE KENDALL HILL . Driving through the dunes in north-west Namibia TurekMichael TRAVELLEDLESSROAD
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“There’s no drive in Namibia that’s not beautiful,” he says with a smile. Onduli’s drawcards are its proximity to the World Heritage-listed rock engravings of Twyfelfontein, where ancient bushmen created an open-air art gallery, and the wildlife. Besides 14 Angolan giraffe (onduli ) relocated here to bolster the dwindling Hoanib Valley Camp (opposite); a suite at Onduli Ridge lodge (above)
No sign announces our entry into Damaraland but the terrain of this northern territory is unmistakable. Pink sand plains, rippling waves of silver bushman grass, the hazy lilac of distant mountains and the inselberg islands of orange granite against the eye-watering blue of the African sky.
“Just give me a call and I’ll make the necessary arrangements,” he says.
Earlier, at Windhoek airport, my driving buddy and I met Yerome Piet Boois and Jimmy Simeon Kokule, agents from Ultimate Safaris, the local partner of Sydney-based Bench Africa (benchafrica. com).
Theoretically it’s possible to plot your own Namibian road trip – they drive on the left and English is the official language – but Bench is expert at self-drive itineraries and takes care of everything, from car hire to accommodation. “This is the safest country in Africa,” Boois tells me. “They’re the friendliest, chillest people you’ll ever find.” We’re armed with maps, a detailed itinerary, a country guide and, most reassuringly, a local mobile phone for emergencies. At Desert Car Hire, manager James Moore runs us through road rules, insurance and its nationwide network of repairers should anything go wrong.
Guide William Steenkamp meets us at a bush airstrip to transport us to Onduli Ridge (ultimatesafaris.na), a lodge that opened last October with six rock-star retreats nestled in the flanks of a granite kopje or hill. Manager Peter Dunning welcomes us and laughs when I tumble out of the car, raving about the wide-screen wonder of landscapes we saw on the way.
The drive to Damaraland should take about six hours but we make it in eight. I blame the scenery. After leaving compact Windhoek behind and cruising north up the B1, the landscape opens to cinematic horizons and occasional springboks.
Days 01 + 02 WINDHOEK TO DAMARALAND
A final run-through of the twin-cab Toyota Hilux – how to change a tyre, how to work the tow rope, jumper leads and, most importantly, the 4WD dial on the dashboard – and we’re on the road.
Days 03 + 04
Days 05 + 06 SKELETON COAST Day five is The Very Big Day. Hoanib Valley’s sister property Shipwreck Lodge (shipwrecklodge.com.na) is only 80 kilometres as the vulture flies but the drive there takes us seven hours – the seven most exhilarating hours of my recent memory. Along the way we ford swollen rivers and conquer soaring sand dunes. It’s the first time either of us has attempted to 4WD. It’s driving as existential adventure and it’s awesome. Precisely how I hoped to feel in Namibia: challenged, alive. A herd of giraffes graze on mopane leaves beside the track as we head west from Hoanib Valley to the coast. Because there are often no discernible roads – there’s no Google route from A to B –Nicky guides us first to a weather-beaten township far from anywhere called Puros, where we’re met by Shipwreck manager Sacky Kandukua. He escorts us across a ravaged land of red volcanic rock where we’re briefly waylaid by a pair of ostriches and their 13 chicks, distraught that we’ve trespassed on their patch of “road”. The stand-off lasts maybe 20 minutes, after which we enter the Skeleton Coast National Park and the dunes begin in earnest. Kandukua releases pressure from our tyres and we follow him over evermore daunting dunes, too dumbstruck by the surroundings to fret over logistics.
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The twohour drive across a watercolour world of chiselled mountains and flowering prairielands that smell like biscuits baking is interrupted only by a herd of springboks and the occasional ostrich. Again, we follow a dry river bed –officially roads in Namibia – through a snaking gorge to a natural amphitheatre where seven platform tents are pegged and roped into the desert at the base of a wall of rock. Staff sing and clap us into camp; the warmth of their welcome continues throughout our stay. The lodge’s central tent is an all-day drop-in centre for meals, coffee, afternoon tea, cocktails and engaging chats with the staff, many of them local. They’re only too happy to demonstrate their “click” languages for guests. While it might be tempting to head out into the enchanting unknown, camp manager Petronella Daniels advises against it. “We do have animals wandering around,” she says. “Like the lions. You never know where they are!”
KAOKOLAND En route to Kaokoland the landscape shifts (it always shifts) to visions of violet mountains shaped like mesas and beehives, citadels and fortresses. With bonus zebras, sheltering under acacias by the roadside. At the oasis town of Sesfontein in the shaded grounds of a 19th-century “fort” (actually a police post) we meet Nicky Rungondo, our escort to Hoanib Valley Camp (naturalselection.travel).
“Or else they’ll think you’re prey.” Our walk ends with a beachside lunch where three clothed tables have been conjured on the shore. Grinning chef Rosie is barbecuing meats at a makeshift braai and Sara staffs the bar as fogs shapeshift around us and winds constantly remodel the sandscapes.
The four hours from coastal Swakopmund to Windhoek is meant to be a routine drive but it turns out to be one of the most demanding legs of the journey. Shortly after exiting Swakopmund at 6am in semi-darkness a dense fog descends. Visibility is reduced to mere metres so I slow to a crawl on the B2 highway. Braver drivers zip past, their red taillights briefly guiding me through the gloom before vanishing. My world closes in again. Tense and panicked, I plough on because I have a plane to catch. After about 10 – maybe 15 – minutes of driving almost blind, the air becomes less solid, more luminous. Then, as suddenly as it arrived, the fog vanishes and brilliant sunshine bounces off the windscreen. Out of the darkness and into the light, Namibia’s big skies and far horizons flood back into view in full technicolour.
native population we stumble across a breeding group of 16 desert-adapted elephants on the wide, dry bed of the Huab River during a morning game drive with Steenkamp. Guests staying for three nights have the option of rhino tracking with rangers from Save the Rhino Trust. The lodge makes much of its solar power but less of its star power. At night, staff roll my bed onto the deck so I can sleep beneath a blinding blanket of stars. I wake at 4am and open my eyes to a dazzling sweep of the Milky Way stretched taut above and the Brandberg, Namibia’s highest mountain, silhouetted on the horizon. Geckos call love songs into the night. It’s an only-inAfrica moment.
WDH Qantas flies from Sydney to Johannesburg, with onward connections on partner airlines to Windhoek, Namibia. Qantas
On outings with Rungondo we visit a Himba “village” – actually just one family of five wives, four children and an absent goatherd husband – in a clearing of mud huts and with an eternal fire to keep in touch with their ancestors and cook their porridge. “The Himba always keep a fire burning, fuelled by this holy leadwood that allows them to commune with the passed,” explains Rungondo, whose mother is Himba. The extraordinary-looking women are stained red from an ochre cream that offers sun protection and an instant glow. They’re draped in goatskins and jewellery and every item of their costume is symbolic, such as the leather erembe headdress worn once they reach puberty. As we’re leaving, two of the women begin singing and dancing then dissolve into laughter.
Shipwreck Lodge is every bit as bonkers and beautiful as I’d hoped, decked out in décor best described as maritime baroque; its 10 suites and main lodge designed to look like shipwrecks marooned on a desolate Atlantic coastline. Wedged between towering sand mountains and roiling ocean, beset by a thick, near-constant fog, the setting is breathtaking and unsettling in equal measure. Pre-dinner drinks and hearty meals by log fires help ease the sense of absoluteDuringisolation.ahike to the seashore, three kilometres from the lodge, guide Immanuel Kapeleko discusses the two desert-adapted lions who stalk this coastline for seals and antelope. If we ever see one we should never run, he advises.
In this impermanent world, nothing is quite as it seems. When he first started working at Shipwreck, Kapeleko says, “It took me a week to understand that I am really here. I thought I was dreaming.”
Day 07 SWAKOPMUND TO WINDHOEK
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97 Shipwreck Lodge (right and below) will commence flights from Perth to Johannesburg on 1 November 2022. qantas.com
Fiery red maples, striking architecture and restaurants that impress. Start planning an autumn trip to Jiangsu province’s charming capital when travel restrictions are lifted. tree-lined boulevards come alive with vibrant ginkgo foliage. Add this ancient city of surprises to the top of your must-visit list for when travel restrictions are lifted. See an autumnal wonderland Nanjing’s colourful transformation begins in September as the weather cools, decorating the hills, mountaintops and many buildings of the region in shades of rust.
The best place to see the trees is from Yuejiang Tower, located on top of the Shizishan (Lion) Mountain. The ornate building was first conceived in 1374 by Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang but construction took another 627 years. The tower’s highest balconies are by far the best place to view the tree-lined river. Thirty minutes north-east of downtown Nanjing, Qixia Mountain is famous for its autumn Red Maple Festival and major cultural sites,
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One of China’s most stunning and fascinating cities, Nanjing has an enviable position right on the edge of the Yangtze River. Rich in imperial history and recognised as one of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China, it’s now a bustling university town, filled with hidden bars and delicious eat streets bursting with local delicacies. To see the city at its most beautiful, plan a visit in autumn. Forested parks become blanketed in a thick quilt of maple leaves and
The colours of Nanjing
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Finish your day with a visit to the Qinhuai River Scenic Area to see the city skyline lit up and book tickets to a performance at the Zaha Hadiddesigned Nanjing Poly Grand Theatre, a grand building that resembles a spacecraft.
such as Qixia Temple, one of China’s most important Buddhist monasteries, with an intriguing 1500-year history. Back in the city, enjoy its most picturesque 600 metres – the maple-adorned stroll towards Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, one of the largest imperial tombs in China. Take in the vista of Zhongshan Hill Scenic Spot, where the warm-hued foliage competes with the purple clouds hovering around the peak of Zijin Mountain.
While Nanjing’s patchwork of maple and ginkgo trees might be the ultimate autumnal drawcard, things are no less colourful inside the city’s top drinking spots. Quirky café Lazy Bedroom takes “laid-back atmosphere” to a whole new level. A satin-covered bed positioned in the centre of the space invites caffeine-lovers to get comfortable as they sip on ginger ale Americanos and sea salt caramel lattes. Fancy something a little stronger than coffee? American vintage-themed Bible Club promises a lot more than a cold beer and new friends. Its antique furniture and theatreinspired décor – all dark wood and velvet curtains – will transport you back to the 1920s Jazz Age. Try mouth-watering local dishes
Sip lattes in cool cafés
All culinary journeys in Nanjing begin and end at Gaochun Old Street, one of the best preserved streets from the Ming and QingStartdynasties.withthe city’s famous soup dumplings – delicate balls of pork wrapped in wontons and steamed to perfection – before sampling another local delicacy: boiled salted duck simmered in stock and loaded with ginger, pepper, yellow wine and star anise. For dessert, pick up a Plum Blossom Cake, a chewy sweet crust encasing a sweet bean paste centre, which has origins that date back to the Ming dynasty. Be sure to grab a table at locals’ favourites Liuchaoju King Star Restaurant and YunNan Weidao, where the homemade plum wine is a must-order. Where to stay in Nanjing Located in the heart of Nanjing and only moments from sites such as Chaotian Palace, Jinling Hotel Nanjing (hotel.qantas.com.au/ jinlinghotelnanjing) comes with an indoor pool, a host of restaurants and gym. The five-star InterContinental gotonanjing.com
Blue Mountains vistas THEY’RE BOTH KNOWN FOR THEIR VAST LANDSCAPES AND RUGGED CHARM. BUT LATELY TWO OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST POPULAR GETAWAYS HAVE HAD A SERIOUSLY COOL UPGRADE. HERE’S HOW TO SEE THEM IN A NEW LIGHT. DOUBLE TAKE DOUBLE
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FRIDAY PM Take the M4 route up the Blue Mountains from Sydney – the alternative Bells Line of Road is more scenic but misses the major towns.
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SATURDAY AM Pop into Katoomba, just a 10-minute drive away, for fresh-baked croissants or a flaky Oomite and cheddar scroll at Black Cockatoo Bakery (blackcockatoobakery.com.au); all its pastries are made with cult fave Pepe Saya butter. Stroll the shops – Silverfox Vintage (69 Waratah Street, Katoomba; 04102 397 770) has fabulous retro furnishings – and check out the street art walk on Beverly Place. Beeline to Mountain Culture Beer Co. (mountainculture. com.au), once the site of an 1800s schoolhouse and a local newspaper, for lunchtime burgers and a schooner of its Status Quo Pale Ale. Grab a seat on the outdoor terrace for those famous misty-blue valley views.
If you find yourself stuck in an end-of-week traffic snarl, make a mid-Mountains stop at the under-theradar village of Lawson for the smoky woodfired pizzas and tiramisu at Napoli Corner (napolicorner. com). Then wind your way to Blackheath and the newly renovated, Palm Springs-inspired boutique motel Kyah (thekyah.com.au). You should still have plenty of time for a nightcap at the on-site restaurant and bar, Blaq, before bed.
PM Head back to Blackheath and take a 20-minute drive through the rainforest (the only access from the mountains) to the Megalong Valley for a wine tasting and cheese board at Dryridge Estate NSW A
102 WoodburnStevenBaska,Maja (dryridge.com.au), which owners Emma MacMahon and Simon Doyle have given a fresh hospitality focus. They’ll set you up with eight wines at a table facing knockout Narrow Neck escarpment views. Then pootle back to Katoomba, where dinner at hip newcomer Tempus (tempuskatoomba.com.au) might include share plates of duck with XO sauce or burrata with radicchio and grilled grapes, plus wines from nearby Orange and housemade sodas (don’t sleep on the wattleseed cola). There’s even a solid vegan dégustation if that’s your jam.
PM Mid-afternoon is a great time to meander back to the city; the drive is full of valley glimpses and the occasional peek at the distant Sydney skyline. You should have time to duck into The Falls Store in Wentworth Falls (thefallsstore. com.au), an offshoot of legacy Sydney homewares store Orson & Blake, to fossick for artwork, jewellery and vintage fashion. To really delay your return, check the National Parks website for possible trail closures before detouring to the lovely and lesserknown fire trail from Chester Road that leads to Rocket Point Lookout – it’s the best place to see Wenty’s waterfall. If you’re up to it, carry on to Lincoln’s Rock in the Kings Tableland Plateau (it’s not fenced, so take care), which is known for its gorgeous horizon outlook and its significance to the local First Nations people, who’ve been meeting and camping there for more than 14,000 years.
(From right) Kyah Boutique Hotel, Blackheath; the scenery at Blackheath; Tempus restaurant, Katoomba
SUNDAY AM Start the day with a lazy breakfast at Kyah – the smashed avo toast with chimichurri made from the hotel’s kitchen garden is the pick of the menu. If it’s the second Sunday of the month, wander around the Blackheath Growers Market before tucking into fish tacos, guacamole and a non-alcoholic Heaps Normal beer (you’re driving home, remember) at Zoe’s on the main drag (35 Govetts Leap Road, Blackheath; 0448 321 233).
03 Wildflower season in the Stirling Range National Park kicks off in late July but visit during the Bloom Festival (17 September to 16 October) Head, Torndirrup National Park
A serious step up from the classic beach shack, Latitude 35°5 (latitude355.com) trades coastal clichés for marble finishes and soaring vaulted ceilings. In addition to its secluded perch in Torndirrup National Park, the wraparound balconies, plush living areas, 160-bottle wine cellar and chef-grade kitchen make this newly built property the ideal retreat for up to eight guests.
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02 “The community of growers in the Great Southern produces amazing, diverse wines,” says Laura Penniment of Alkoomi (alkoomiwines. com.au), a third-generation family winery in Frankland River. Thanks to its varied terroir, the area has an impressive array of chardonnay, riesling and cabernet sauvignon. Penniment’s current favourite? The “intense and elegant” 2020 Alkoomi Collection Shiraz, which you can sample in the luxe cellar door that opened late last year.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA 10 TOP THINGS TO DO IN THE GREAT SOUTHERN BY BRITTANY HENDERSON
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“Ballogup [Lake Pleasant View] is always a highlight,” says Menang Elder Vernice Gillies. “The ancient Noongar camp has abundant wildlife and guests get to taste traditional bush food and medicines.”
06 Stop by to take in the latest arrivals at Aboriginal-owned gallery and shop Kurrah Mia (kurrahmia.com.au) before heading on an immersive walking tour of Kinjarling (Albany).
when events such as guided bushwalks take you in search of the Queen of Sheba, the holy grail of WA orchids. Book a room at the Premier Mill Hotel (hotel.qantas.com.au/premiermillhotel), a boutique stay in Katanning’s renovated former flour mill.
07 Raising the hotel game in Albany, the Hilton Garden Inn hiltongardeninnalbanywa)(hotel.qantas.com.au/sitsontheforeshore, Latitude 35º5 residence, Goode Beach (below); the Stirling Range National Park (right)
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04 Taking out the top spot on Tourism Australia’s list of Best Beaches for 2022, Misery is only a 20-minute drive south of Albany. Once tainted by the detritus of a nearby whaling station – hence the grim name – the sheltered 200-metre cove is today nothing but white sand and gleaming turquoise water fringed by granite cliffs.
05 Towering 40 metres above terra firma, the 600-metre-long Valley of The Giants Tree Top Walk in Walpole-Nornalup National Park (valley ofthegiants.com.au) promises a fresh perspective on the centuries-old forest. Stroll through the canopy of red tingles, whose huge hollowed-out trunks can span 20 metres in circumference, as well as karris, which are among Australia’s tallest trees.
10 Now part of Munda Biddi (mundabiddi.org.au) – the massive 1000-kilometre mountain-bike trail that connects Mundaring, north-east of Perth, and Albany – the Denmark to Nornalup stretch welcomes cyclists and hikers alike. Pull over for a caffeine fix at Raven’s Coffee (ravenscoffee.com) before following the 68-kilometre track past bucolic farmland and timber rail bridges that date back to the 1920s.
right next door to the Entertainment Centre. It opened in 2021 and you can expect simple-yetstylish décor in the 108 rooms – many with ocean views – and a bar and restaurant that serve up award-winning WA wines and live music.
The waters off Bremer Bay are a hunting playground for orcas – in fact, it’s the only place in Australia that you’re guaranteed to spot them in the wild. “Feeding season between January and April provides a perfect opportunity to see the ocean’s apex predator on a daily basis,” says Gemma Sharp of Whale Watch Western Australia (whalewatchwesternaustralia.com). In 2021 the charter company debuted a purpose-built boat that lets you get closer to the action without disturbing the marine life.
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“Our menu explores French-Vietnamese cuisine through the incredible produce of the Great Southern,” says Amy Hamilton, chef and owner of Libertē inside Albany’s historic London Hotel (libertealbany.com.au). Among the standouts: local marron and pork belly banh xeo and the coconut sticky rice topped with green mango and crunchy pistachio praline.
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The best luxe pool At COMO Laucala Island (hotel.qantas. com.au/laucalaisland) – a private island accessed by the resort’s Beechcraft King Air B300 plane – it’s all about five-star luxury.
The best pool for kids “Children’s pool” is one way of describing what awaits families with a booking for Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort outriggerfijibeachresort)(hotel.qantas.com.au/onVitiLevubut “aqua wonderland” might be a better fit. Kids will go Jump right in
From lagoons with slides and waterfalls to your own climate-controlled plunge, Fiji’s pools are as spectacular – and numerous – as its islands.
Presented by Tourism Fiji
But the jewel in the crown of this piece of paradise is its ultimate swim spot, located in the centre of the resort. It features a glass above-ground lap pool surrounded by a man-made lagoon, complete with swim-up islands and swaying palms. Each of the resort’s 25 thatch-roofed luxury residences is uniquely placed, either floating above emerald lagoon waters, positioned on a hilltop, set amid the rainforest or beside the rolling waves. Watch the sunset as you take in the uninterrupted views of the sea from your own private plunge pool or outdoor soaking tub. Fancy some local cuisine brought to your doorstep for dinner? Your “Tau” (butler) can help you out.
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crazy jumping into the enormous familyfriendly lagoon pool, which is also the venue for water polo with the Kids Club. But parents, fear not: there’s an adjacent adults-only pool complete with a swim-up bar.
Few things could be as pleasurable as plunging into your own infinity pool, with sweeping views of Natadola Bay’s turquoise waters and powder-white sand. At InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa (hotel.qantas.com.au/ intercontinentalfiji), this dream is a reality. Book a Club InterContinental two-bedroom suite for the ultimate island indulgence, where you can sip cocktails from the daybed of your sundappled terrace and enjoy ocean-front dips from your personal oasis.
The Outrigger offers guests a choice of 47 bures and 205 rooms nestled in the grounds’ verdant gardens. Poolside eats beckon at Baravi Restaurant, which offers cuisines from China, India, Singapore and Thailand, including roadside-style barbecue lamb chops and lovo chicken cooked in an underground oven.
Private plunge pools are one thing; climatecontrolled plunge pools overlooking a pristine lagoon teeming with dolphins and turtles are quite another. At Royal Davui Island Resort (hotel.qantas.com.au/royaldavui), 16 luxe villas, each one set within lush, tropical gardens, afford you the utmost privacy as you swim, watch the wildlife and repeat. At this adults-only all-inclusive resort, you’ll find a variety of personalised dining options focused on Pacific Rim fusion (in locations from a private dining hut to a secluded island picnic for two), decadent seven-day indulgence treatments at Davui Spa (or perhaps a signature warm seashell massage for shorter stays) and an extensive list of activities. The selection is as varied as it is creative, with hot-glass-blowing tours and cooking classes, as well as the more traditional castaway sand cay beach picnics and jetski reefIfsafaris.aprivate pool simply isn’t enough, Royal Davui Island Resort can also be hired for exclusive use for the ultimate luxury holiday.
The best pool for beach views
The best private plunge pool
Clockwise from left: Royal Davui Island Resort, InterContinental Fiji Gold Resort & Spa, Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort
Start planning your holiday to Fiji today at fiji.travel
JUNGLEURBAN Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park in central Singapore (opposite) A HIKING TRAIL THAT TAKES IN DENSE RAINFOREST AND HIDDEN HISTORY REVEALS A DIFFERENT SIDE OF SINGAPORE. BY ALEXIS BUXTON-COLLINS PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAURYN ISHAK R G
Launched in 2019, the C2C plots an unlikely route through one of the most densely populated countries on earth, all the way from the freshwater swamp forests of Jurong Lake Gardens in the south-west to the woodlands and mangroves that fringe the north-east coast. The path switches regularly between the city and the jungle and three days gives me plenty of time to make stops along the way. I’m 163 metres above sea level and Singapore’s skyline sprawls out below me. Early-morning crowds jostle but there isn’t a suit in sight. Instead, I’m sharing the view from the highest point of this bustling island nation with a troop of silvery long-tailed macaques and human walkers in fitness apparel, the air around us filled with the high-pitched drone of jungle insects.
And yet, just an hour later I’m scanning the hawkers’ stalls at bustling Adam Road Food Centre, where the princely sum of A tree-lined path and an orange heliconia in the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
S$5.50 is enough to secure what is reputedly the Sultan of Brunei’s favourite nasi lemak. Tucking into a plate loaded with fluffy coconut rice, crisp ikan bilis and zingy sambal, I reflect that my hectic day is all par for the course on the 36-kilometre Coast-to-Coast Trail (C2C; nparks.gov.sg).
In this highly urbanised city-state, Bukit Timah Nature Reserve is perhaps the wildest place that remains. Civets, pangolin and sambar deer prowl through the jungle beneath spiky rattan palms and 40-metre-high seraya trees that trail vines as thick as my arm.
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It’s a version of Singapore that I struggle to picture but one that feels tangible when a sea breeze drifts through the casuarina forest at the trail’s terminus on peaceful Coney Island.
“Not what you were expecting?” he asks with a gently mocking smile, as if fending off wild boars and giant lizards is the norm in a place where an outbreak of littering is almost a national emergency.
Just minutes after leaving the reserve we reach Marymount MRT Station, one of several stops along the trail that make it easily accessible from the Parkroyal Collection Pickering hotel (hotel. qantas.com.au/parkroyalcollectionpickering).
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“I was born in a place like this,” he recalls. “In those days nobody closed the doors, everyone was welcome and it was a simple life. We didn’t have much but we made toys out of bottle caps and went swimming whenever we wanted. Now there’s no trace of that life left.”
I’m watching a mustard-coloured woodpecker with a bright red crest hammering on a trunk when a rustle in the undergrowth draws my attention to a sleek ribbon of fur sliding through the greenery at my feet. A pair of dark eyes emerges above a whiskered face and after letting out a gentle mew, the otter steps onto the path and continues on its way.
When we enter the Central Catchment Nature Reserve I’m so busy staring at a sign warning me about wild boars that I almost step on a clouded monitor with lace-like patterns across its skin. Startled, it pads quickly away through the chocolate-coloured soil before turning back and flicking its long tongue at me. At 50 centimetres long, Hee tells me, this one’s just a baby – adults can grow up to four times as large.
Toon Hee is my sprightly 60-year-old guide and he seems to get a kick out of confounding my expectations on a regular basis.
Charmed by the encounter, I can’t help but laugh when Hee tells me these gorgeous creatures have earned the ire of some residents due to their habit of taking expensive koi from household ponds. “But that’s what happens when you live close to nature.”
When Singapore gained independence in 1965, “we said we would have a garden in a city. Now, after more than 50 years, we’ve expanded that idea to become a city in a garden. Not every visitor sees it but it’s easy to find if you look in the right places.”
Kampong Lorong Buangkok (top); the Parkroyal Collection Pickering hotel (above) from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth to Singapore. qantas.com
After a day walking in the heat, it’s a relief to arrive at this “hotel in a garden”, which brings the greenery to the city centre with banks of foliage that erupt from the terraces wrapped around every third floor. My accommodation is a far cry from Kampong Lorong Buangkok, a cluster of two dozen humble wooden bungalows with zinc roofs that lies near the end of the walk. Singapore’s last remaining traditional village is like a time capsule, offering a faint echo of the rural landscape that covered much of the island within living memory. It provokes a rush of sentimentality from my normally ebullient guide.
Feel Alive Find your high in a kayak on Sydney Harbour. Sleep under the stars in a luxe bubble tent. Snorkel alongside humpbacks. NSW’s adventures are calling... IN THE MOMENT
Even the clouds look different out here. I’m bobbing along on a camel, slow-travelling through Silverton, an almost ghost town near Broken Hill in Outback NSW, admiring clouds that seem tinted pink by the red desert glare. These old mining towns and the surrounding Mundi Mundi Plains aren’t short on cinematic good looks. As the Mad Max Museum up on the hill showcases, this otherworldly landscape is a favourite of movie directors.
For now, Silverton Outback Camels ’ (silvertonoutbackcamels.com.au) Petah Devine is rolling the camera, capturing our camel train. Her husband, Duncan Pickering, leads, narrating as we pass local curiosities. A colourful tin hut turns out to be the studio of artist John “Emu Man” Dynon, who lived out here until supernatural shenanigans alarmed his wife, prompting a move into Broken Hill. Everyone has a story, I’m discovering. At a former Royal Flying Doctor communications base on Broken Hill’s outskirts, Linda and Travis Nadge have Katrina Lobley goes into the iconic desert of Outback NSW for space and finds it full of surprises.
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Silverton, Broken Hill
Look up! IN THE MOMENT
visitnsw.com Travel Insider | Destination NSW Stay The Broken Hill Outback Church Stay outbackchurchstay.com),(brokenhill just two kilometres from Broken Hill airport, is set in a transformed 1911 Romanesque church, with double-height ceilings and arched doorways retaining its sense of glory. Bell’s Milk Bar, a cheerful local institution offering 1950s vibes and proper lime spiders, is just steps away. Saltbush-dustedEat lamb rump and wattleseed date pudding are recent additions to the menu at The Old Saltbush (theoldsaltbush.com.au). Silvers Restaurant in the classic colonial turned their passion for all-things celestial into the Outback Astronomy stargazing experience (outbackastronomy.com.au). I recline on a lounger, sip chilled red wine and listen to Linda’s tales of black holes and asteroids. One night, she says, a fireball of a meteor streaked from east to west across the sky as she spoke. This is ancient Country with a vibrant living culture. Inside Mutawintji National Park, 130 kilometres from town, Keanu Garni Bates from Mutawintji Heritage Tours (mutawintjiheritagetours.com.au) shows me the park’s Historic Site (only accessible with a guide) and its astonishing rock galleries of ochre hand stencils and engravings. Bates’s grandfather, Badger Bates, is a knowledge-holder for the Barkindji people and an artist of note. When I later head to Broken Hill’s Living Desert Reserve, where 12 sandstone sculptures stand in the middle of nowhere and glow at sunset, I’m not surprised to find that it’s Bates’s quietly intriguing work that’s speaking to me the loudest.
Junction Hotel (560 Argent St, Broken Hill, 08 8088 4380) serves up creature comforts in the form of barramundi, confit duck and Cajun lamb. And for the best brunch in town, head to the Silly Goat (425 Argent St, Broken Hill, 08 8088 7210) for matcha lattes and brekkie burgers with smoky sauce. Don’t miss The Palace Hotel com.au)(thepalacehotelbrokenhill.wasmadefamous by an eye-popping scene in The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. Extraordinary murals – including a local take on Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus – adorn the walls, ceilings and staircase here like a quirky Sistine Chapel of the Outback.
Spring loaded
Stay : In the sweet spot between hinterland and sand, the luxe rooms and apartments at Pacific Bay Resort (pacificbayresort. com.au) come with a day spa and some of the town’s fluffiest pancakes at breakfast.
NSW’s most dramatic coastlines, plains and mountains put on a show in the sunshine. Welcome to the new state of play.
Swim with humpback whales
Coffs Harbour, North Coast
“There’s a moment when a whale emerges from the deep, a big eye is looking into yours and you’re communicating with this giant, gentle animal,” says Mike Davey of Jetty Dive (jettydive.com.au), who takes small boats of snorkellers on tours a short distance off the coast. “It’s exhilarating but what most people say is it’s life-changing.” Humpbacks that cruise past Coffs Harbour on their migration south seem fascinated by humans, he adds, and the young ones who are around in September are the most curious. “It’s up to them if they want to approach us and when they do, they might get so close a pectoral fin could touch you.”
IN THE MOMENT
Coffs Harbour, North Coast
Half-day tours go out on weekday mornings or weekend afternoons – you can have a wild whale experience and be on a waterslide at the Big Banana on the same day. “It’s unique to be able to swim with whales without going into the middle of nowhere. Spend a few days holidaying in Coffs and we’ll pick when conditions are best to go out.”
Find big bush bliss Tenterfield, New England A road trip through the north-west’s high country delivers wild freedom with bush comforts: wineries, heritage homesteads and authentic pubs in Armidale or Glen Innes are dotted between national parks, waterfalls and bushranger hideouts. The new bolthole to enter into your GPS? The clear-top bubble tents at Mirumiru (mirumirububbletent.com.au), which are off the grid on a private property outside of Tenterfield and are the state’s first designed for couples and families (there’s a “glam swag” suspended between gumtrees that kids will love). A chef from the village will drop off dinner so the only things left to do are boil your billy on a campfire and watch space descend upon your bed.
visitnsw.com Travel Insider | Destination NSW
Stay : Cabins at Mavis’s Kitchen (maviseskitchen.com.au) share grounds with the Tweed Valley’s best country-style restaurant, between Mt Warning’s hiking trails and golden Cabarita Beach.
Conquer NSW’s greatest secret hike Eden, Far South Coast
WrightJSeraPhotography,ParkTomTran.DanielCover:
Tip: In Bald Rock National Park, hike the Bald Rock Summit loop to stand atop the biggest granite boulder in Australia.
Feast in the wild Tweed Heads, Northern Rivers
Billion-star glamping in Tenterfield, New England Boyds Tower stands sentry on the Sapphire Coast
Tip: On the Sapphire Coast Oyster Trail north of Eden, taste the nuances between creamy delicacies from Broadwater Oysters on Pambula Lake and salty-sweet oysters grown by Wheeler’s in Merimbula.
The Sapphire Coast’s Light to Light walk crams a highlights reel into 30 kilometres. Between Boyds Tower, the failed lighthouse built by eccentric legend Ben Boyd, and the actual lighthouse of Green Cape, 320 million-year-old outcrops lead to bird-filled heathlands that open into thick groves of tea-tree, banksia woodland and tall forests of woolly butt. Then there are the sandy nooks that give this coastline its reputation. Life’s An Adventure (lifesanadventure.com.au) sets an agreeable pace on a four-day, pack-free itinerary. Local guides tell of European settlers and First Nations history as you cover 10-ish kilometre stretches. Nights are spent at the boutique Seahorse Inn on Twofold Bay in Eden town, where rooms are comfy, local catch lands on dinner plates and the wine list is right for toasting a day’s triumphs.
The hiss and crackle of fat mud crabs on a beach bonfire is extra satisfying when you’ve caught the bounty yourself. On the Pot to Plate adventure with Tweed Eco Cruises (tweedecocruises.com), a Yugambeh and Bundjalung Nation elder helps you source lunch along the slow curves of the Tweed River in northern NSW. Wade waist-deep through mangrove forests, spearfish in crystalline shallows and hear the stories of the water and land as you cook stingrays and yabbies on a bush-backed sandbank. You’re a 45-minute drive north of the glamour of Byron Bay but, happily, you’ll never feel further away.
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Recharge in colourful country Buddabadah, Central West It’s as though someone just flicked a switch in the Outback. Electric green pastures. Rich, red earth. “The canola fields around the region are blooming in gold and we’ve got white spring lambs bouncing about, too,” says Angie Armstrong of Callubri Station (callubristation.com.au), a working merino and crop farm-meets-luxury escape on the plains west of Dubbo. “The land just brims with life.” You could soak it all in while you swing in a hammock chair on the deck of your suite. Or while doing lazy laps in the infinity pool. But if you’re prepared to roll up your sleeves, shearing, wrangling and farm-jobbing with Angie’s husband, Mike, is lots of fun. Such labours are richly rewarded.
Paddle into a city sunrise Lavender Bay, Sydney Just before daybreak, paddlers clip a coffee (barista-made, in a watertight eco cup) to the front of their kayaks and push out from the north side’s Lavender Bay into Sydney Harbour. “To beat the sun in warmer months, we go out before the ferries start up so we’re able to paddle right underneath the Sydney Harbour Bridge,” says Laura Stone, founder and guide of the Sydney By Kayak Sunrise and Coffee tour (sydneybykayak.com.au). “The harbour is our playground.” Most guests just bob, watching the light nudge over the tops of the Opera House’s sails then explore mangroves and coves. Kids (8 and up) will wave back at seals at Goat Island in the cooler months as they paddle. But forget your phone. “We’ll do a photoshoot on the water for you – we want you to just stay in the moment.” Tip: Wander through Wendy Whiteley’s Secret Garden and the leafy streets of Kirribilli for breakfast at Celsius Coffee & Dining (celsiuscoffee.com.au) on Kirribilli Wharf before catching a ferry into the city.
Sun-up over Sydney Harbour Bondi Beach, Sydney
Angie takes on the role of chef and her eight-hour lamb shoulder with native river mint and veg from the farm’s gardens is her specialty. But before dinner, you’ll want to see the sun blaze out with a bit of ceremony. “We’ve got a little rocky lookout where you can see across the plains for hundreds of kilometres. I’ll be up there with my chef’s hat on and white-shirted waiters pour G&Ts and local prosecco. If you’re going to do sundowners, why not do it right?” Tip: Fly into Orange and collect coolclimate shiraz and chardonnay on wine trails surrounding town – you can even hop on a helicopter to the station from Printhie Wines. “If you’re driving out from Dubbo, stop at Ewe Two in Trangie for beautiful homewares and coffee,” says Armstrong.
visitnsw.com IN THE MOMENT
Thredbo, Snowy Mountains Snow still clings to the slopes but sun-yellow billy buttons and other wildflowers are bursting out in technicolour around Kosciuszko National Park. “The Thredbo Valley Track that follows the river between Thredbo village and Jindabyne is my favourite in spring,” says Ruth Kennedy from K7 Adventures (k7adventures.com), which can organise bikes, guides and picnics along the trail. “It’s 36 kilometres all up but you can do sections: the first 10 kilometres is mellow then you get into fun switchbacks and short climbs.” Spot trout as you cross suspension bridges and stop awhile to dip your toes. “The Diggings campground has a little sandy beach,” promises Ruth. Stay : With Jindabyne town a few minutes’ drive north-east and edging Kosciuszko National Park, Crackenback is dotted with cosy cottages. The two-person Wallaby Cabin (airbnb.com) has massive views. Hitch a ride to see the view in Thredbo, Snowy Mountains
Travel Insider | Destination NSW Walk two wild sides in the city Tamarama and Manly, Sydney The coastal walk that hugs the sandstone cliffs and beaches between Bronte and Bondi Beach in Sydney’s east is always a show-off. And Sculptures by the Sea (October 21-November 7) turns things up, with brightly whimsical artworks transforming a two-kilometre stretch into an art park. But the coast walk also extends 80 kilometres north of Bondi to Manly and a whole other Sydney: the quietly gorgeous north side. The 10-kilometre track between Spit Bridge and Manly offers up secluded swimming coves, such as Reef Beach, where you’ll find the Aboriginal engravings of Grotto Point and pockets of rainforest you won’t believe are so close to the big smoke. Tip: Start at The Spit and fuel up with salmon and edamame bowls or burgers at the Bosk (bosk.com.au) kiosk in Clontarf Reserve. You’ll be in a Manly pub in time for afternoon frothies. Pedal through the epic alps
BennettDamian Newtown, Sydney “This inner west neighbourhood gets my senses firing: so many incredible things to eat, so many creatives, an easygoing fun vibe. After fairy bread popcorn lamingtons and coffee at Tokyo Lamington, I usually end up across the road at secretneedDelicatessenContinentalforMartinisandmortadellainthesunshine.Butyoudon’taplan.Justwanderandyou’lldiscoversomeofthebestfoodandbarsSydney’sgot.”
Anna
Polyviou, pastry chef, author, TV host
SOMETHINGFEELTHATSTAYS WITH SydneyYOUHarbour
I still call Australia home Proudly Australiareconnectingandtheworld
116 Collette Dinnigan’s Italian hideaway 118 Reclaiming Aboriginal culture through art 122 Wake up to Alessi’s iconic kettle Casa Olivetta, Puglia, ItalyLópezSalva
A centuries-old homestead in the countryside is reimagined by Collette Dinnigan. (casaolivetta.com), an exquisite holiday home set in an ancient olive grove, surrounded by rolling green hills and whitewashed towns. “It’s very rustic but total luxury,” says Dinnigan of the villa, which includes a three-bedroom main house and separate guest lodging for two. “There’s underfloor heating, a great chef’s kitchen and I’ve put an emphasis on things like art and bed linen.”
When fashion and interior designer Collette Dinnigan first laid eyes on the crumbling 500-year-old farmhouse in southern Italy all she saw was potential.
Regardless of the time of year, Dinnigan is most often found in the organic vegetable garden. “In April, I love to walk through and pick wild asparagus for salads. If you’re there in July and August, the figs are plentiful and we cut them in half, grill them with balsamic and serve them with cream or ice-cream.”
Dinnigan’s understated elegance suffuses every part of the property and is rivalled only by its location, which changes with the seasons. “In summer it’s lighter
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CASA OLIVETTA, PUGLIA, ITALY
On The Inside STORY BY RACHEL LEES PHOTOGRAPHY BY SALVA L Ó PEZ
“It had the beautiful stone work and olive trees that are so old – it just had a good energy and spirit about it,” she says of the hideaway in Puglia’s Valle d’Itria, between the towns of Cisternino and Ostuni. “It felt like part of the world that was yet to be discovered. There aren’t many corners like that left.” It would take five painstaking years to transform the place into Casa Olivetta and there’s more of a holiday feeling. It’s about being up early and swimming in the pool. In spring it’s covered in hundreds of wild flowers, there’s lots of birds and it’s very tranquil. And winter’s more about the fire and the pizza oven.”
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118 Sullivan+StrumpfandartisttheofcourtesyImageHewson.Simon(Above) Abstract / Aboriginal Art IX (2022) by Tony Albert (opposite)
Albert has exhibited around the world and been commissioned for large-scale public works including the interior of the new Sydney Football Stadium and Yininmadyemi Thou didst let fall, a sculpture in Sydney’s Hyde Park adjacent to the Anzac Memorial. Next month, at Sullivan+Strumpf’s new Melbourne gallery (27 October to 12 November; sullivanstrumpf.com), Albert will delve deeper into his 2021 sellout show Conversations with Margaret Preston with an exhibition called Remark. Though the new works are more abstract, both collections are a creative tête-à-tête with printmaker and painter Margaret Preston (1875-1963), whose use of Aboriginal motifs helped influence the Aboriginalia trend in mid-century Australia. “The intention was not to bastardise her,” says Albert, noting his admiration for Preston as an artist who faced her own adversity. “If she was alive, I wonder what the dialogue would be like?”
What the critics say: “Albert is driven to shed light on the glaring and ongoing oppression of Indigenous people, and their inequality with non-Indigenous Australians, but his work is often so colourfully put together it has the effect of being hit by an iron fist in a velvet glove.”
TONY ALBERT
“I’ve been collecting since I was a child,” says Townsville-born Tony Albert of his “Aboriginalia” collection — kitschy objects found in antique stores and tourist shops that depict Aboriginal scenes and culture, manufactured by non-Aboriginal people. “It came from an innocent perspective of love but later I realised it had sinister undertones of appropriation.” The dolls and souvenirs often take centrestage in the Girramay, Yidinji and Kuku Yalanji artist’s mixed-media work, recontextualising the commodification of Aboriginal people into powerful narrative tools.
Awards and prizes: Finalist, Dobell Drawing Prize (2019), National Art School, Sydney; Finalist, Ramsay Art Prize (2017), Art Gallery of South Australia; Fleurieu Art Prize (2016); Basil Sellers Art Prize (2014); Official war artist, NORFORCE, Australian War Memorial (2012), Canberra.
Drawing on his collection of kitsch trinkets, this artist uses familiar objects to create new narratives around Aboriginal representation.
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Though his collection is dwindling, working with the pieces energises Albert’s focus and creativity. “It becomes a very interesting metaphor,” he says. “It gives us a voice as people but it also gives these objects an opportunity to have a voice outside of the framework that was originally set for them. I love that.”
Creative Process STORY BY NOELLE FAULKNER
Jane Albert (no relation), The Australian
Exhibited at: ACC Galerie Weimar, Germany; Art Gallery of NSW and Carriageworks, Sydney; National Gallery of Australia, Canberra; Queensland Art Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art, Brisbane; Singapore Art Museum, Singapore; Tel Aviv Museum of Art, Israel.
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DESIGN
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Albert studied Contemporary Indigenous Australian Art at the Queensland College of Art, which was the only recognised art degree of its kind at the time. He found a mentor in Richard Bell, with whom he co-founded Aboriginal art collective proppaNOW.
Breakthrough moment: “When I started to actually use my collection [of Aboriginalia] in my work.”
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CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK
Foundations AS TOLD TO RACHEL LEES PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEXANDER SPATARI
As a student living in Manhattan in the early 1990s, Central Park was my breathing space. Moving to New York had been my dream but it became a nightmare. The pressure of studying and working there took a toll and I was intimidated by the built environment; all the concrete, steel and narrow streets. I started going to Central Park every Sunday to play baseball. I didn’t know who I was playing against – it was just a melting pot of like-minded people who loved the game. It was wonderful. Afterwards, I always felt fully recharged.
Central Park will always be a work in progress.
It’s what people call “the lungs of New York City”. It took 160 years for more than 18,000 trees to grow and now they absorb almost 1 million pounds [about 454 metric tonnes] of CO2 per year, which helps mitigate greenhouse gas emissions. Sustainability isn’t a sprint, it’s a marathon. Central Park is a massively important symbol of what the future could be. We can bring nature back into the city, build something that lives and grows, and pass on a sustainable man-made environment to the next generation.
Central Park was man-made from scratch, beginning in about 1853. In European cities, aristocrats had the pleasure and privilege of accessing parks in the middle of the city but they were fenced off to certain types of people. When Frederick Olmsted and Calvert Vaux won the competition to design Central Park, they opened it up to everyone. Americans talk a lot about democracy and this is a place anyone can use. Unlike a building, there’s no completion in a park. Obviously, once the bones are there, it takes time for the trees to grow but then you keep revising and improving the space, exploring the boundaries of the park and recreation in the city. In Central Park, people can visit a zoo, baseball fields, tennis courts and playgrounds. You can rent a boat and ice skate and there’s an open-air theatre.
Koichi Takada established his eponymous architecture practice in Sydney in 2008 and also has offices in Doha and Tokyo. His works include the mixed-use Arc by Crown Group in the Sydney CBD and the National Museum of Qatar gift shop.
The legendary green space inspired award-winning Sydney architect Koichi Takada to create designs that work more cohesively with nature.
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Young Sapper made his way to Milan in 1958, working with architect Gio Ponti and in the design studio of department store La Rinascente before striking out on his own. Overlaying the
“It’s easy to say but not easy to do,” said Alberto Alessi in reaction to designer Richard Sapper’s idea for a multi-sensorial stovetop kettle. Happily, the solution – to fit the whistle with tiny coristi tuning pipes made by a craftsman in Germany’s Black Forest – has more than delivered.
When the kettle boils there’s no shrill whistle, rather a resonant harmonica-like chord – its dual notes, “mi” and “si” (E and B), are Sapper’s nostalgic nod to the horns of barges on the River Rhine. When he died in 2015, aged 83, his fans took to social media to describe and share the joy that the two-note whistle had brought to their daily tea ritual. The 9091 was the first in Alessi’s designer kettle range and the covetable model retails for $645 (alessiaustralia.com.au). When you stop and consider the cost per cuppa, it’s a small price to pay to start the day in a cheery way.
ALESSI KETTLE 9091
In mirror-polished stainless steel, the cocky little kettle is pleasingly dome-like, sitting atop a broad copper-lined base (induction-cooktop-friendly) with a scalloped “rooster comb” handle in black polyamide. The brass whistle hugs the shallow spout and a loop-and-wire mechanism flips it up for kettle filling and pouring. In constant production since its 1983 launch, the 9091 has served the designer, the brand and consumers well.
The Statement STORY BY LISA GREEN
technical proficiency of German design with Italian styling he soon made his mark, attracting leading car, furniture and technology brands as clients. In a long list of award-winning projects, the 9091 remains one of his most recognisable creations and a fixture in design collections – and kitchens – the world over.
Keep this sonorous essential in plain view and within ear shot.
Get on the road to more Qantas Points with Avis Enjoy a bonus 1,000 Qantas Points this September when you hire a car for three or more days with Avis Australia. Book before 30 September 2022.* *Bookings must be made direct on qantas.com. You must also be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer Program to earn points. 1,000 bonus Qantas Points as well as the standard 4 Qantas Points per A$1 spent are earned on time and kilometre charges only on rentals in Australia. Conditions apply, visit qantas.com/avis for details.
124 DESIGN 1. Venroy jumper, $200, venroy.com.au. Polo Ralph Lauren shirt, $929, ralphlauren.com.au. Tommy Hilfiger pants, $149, tommy.com.au. IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41, $10,000, iwc.com. McMullin & Co. chair, $729, mcmullinandco.com. 2. Fendi bag, $2980, fendi.com. 3. Dior sneakers, $1750, dior.com. 4. BOSS jacket, $649, hugoboss.com.au. Venroy T-shirt, $120, venroy.com.au. Prada sunglasses, $608, from Sunglass Hut, 1800 556 926. 1
125 qantas.com/travelinsider 2 3 4 Fashion MAKE A MARK New-season prints and graphic details in neutral shades add life to any outfit, while sporty accessories get a lift from of-the-moment logos. STYLING BY LUCY WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN BAMFORD HAIR, GROOMING AND MAKE-UP BY JOEL PHILLIPS Style tip Bold prints in greyscale are a subtle way to wear this trend. Let the printed piece be the focus and use tonal block colours to complete the look.
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1. Zimmermann blazer, $1350, and pants, $695, zimmermannwear.com. Coach sunglasses, $242, from Sunglass Hut, 1800 556 926. Bally bag, $3020, bally. com.au. Christian Louboutin heels, $1295, (02) 8355 5282. 2. Christian Louboutin heels, $1295, (02) 8355 5282. 3. Max Mara blouse, $915, maxmara.com. Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée clovers earrings in yellow-gold and diamonds, $20,500, (on model’s left hand from top) Perlée couleurs Between the Finger ring in yellow-gold, diamonds and malachite, $11,900, Perlée clovers ring in yellow-gold and diamonds, $16,900, and Perlée couleurs ring in yellow-gold and malachite, $3600, vancleefarpels.com. 4. Chanel bag, $7630, 1300 242 635. Sarah Ellison chair, $1695, lifeinteriors.com.au.
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DETAIL-ORIENTATED Whether it’s a textured bag, heels in a bright hue or a flare-cut finish, the latest pieces make a bold statement.
Style tip Match strong tones such as orange and terracotta with a chic textured bag in a neutral colour with gold highlights.
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String of pearls Few pieces can swing from rebel to royal, politics to pop culture as easily as this timeless jewellery staple. Shapeshifter “The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens,” Grace Kelly once said. And therein lies the rub. Being associated with modesty and decorum shouldn’t be a PR problem, yet there was a time when pearls were seen as the domain of high society. But much like Kelly herself – who made the move from Hollywood actress to European royalty –this jewel, celebrated in a 2018 MoMA exhibition of 111 fashion pieces that “have had a strong impact on the world in the 20th and 21st centuries and continue to hold currency today”, has mastered the art of cut-through.
Pearls on film Is there a more iconic opening scene than Audrey Hepburn and her multi-strand pearls in Breakfast at Tiffany’s? How about Madonna gnawing on a single string in Desperately Seeking Susan? And male pop icons have proven pearls aren’t just for women. Pharrell Williams, the Jonas Brothers and Harry Styles have all worn them. The world is your… Well, it’s whatever you want it to be. Traditional and double strands are exemplary but the fashion-savvy opt for minimalist chain-and-pearl combos or look to freshwater or irregular shapes. Then there’s Rihanna matching a bevy of strands with a tracksuit at Lollapalooza Paris in July. And designer Daniel Roseberry’s draped dress made almost entirely of strings of baroque pearls at the Schiaparelli Fall 22 couture show. It’s anything goes… almost, says Christine Salter, creative director at Paspaley. “A smaller pearl of high ‘natural’ lustre is more alluring than a large pearl with an artificial or dull lustre. It attracts your eye. Ask if a pearl has natural colour because many are dyed to brighten them. And remember: sunscreen, hairspray and tanning products are threats. My rule is, pearls are the last thing to go on and the first thing to come off. Wipe them with a tissue before storing them in soft cloth.”
The Classic STORY BY EUGENIE KELLY
Power play From Anne Boleyn’s “B” lavaliere to the chokers worn by Diana, Princess of Wales (when she danced with John Travolta in 1985; at the 1996 Met Gala; with the famed “revenge dress” at a 1994 Vanity Fair party) and the three-strand style the Queen is rarely seen without, pearls have long signified power in palaces and parliaments. “Iron Lady” Margaret Thatcher wore her pearl necklaces with matching clip-on earrings, while Kamala Harris chose a string of black pearls to kick off her 2019 election campaign and Julie Bishop’s trademark drop-pearl earrings even sparked a Twitter account (@JBishEarRing) when one was lost. Ikram Goldman, who dressed Michelle Obama early in her time as First Lady, says, “Wearing a strand of pearls in a position of power says to people, ‘I’m safe, you’re going to be okay and this is all good.’”
It’s time to live a little and enjoy life as it was. Overnight accommodation Chilled glass of Moët & Chandon served at the rooftop bar Late check-out Free WiFi & on-demand movies Access to gym & DOMA wellness app From $269* 26 Clarence Street Sydney 2000 NSW +61 2 9135 0222 Livelittlenationalhotel.com.aualittle.*Per room. Subject to availability
Blackwood 2417 FLOOR WALL
By Faith Campbell Fiona
Lynch
Whitewashed is out, colour is in. Houses are built in a day. And robots are your new roommates. The home of the future will look very different. Here’s how.
truthsHome Burnley House project in Melbourne by
HOMES SPECIAL REPORT 132 KellyTess
There was a time when our collective vision of the 21st century looked sleek – all cool grey tones, sharp lighting and refrigerators now suggest ideas for dinner based on their contents. Facial recognition in smartphones and home-security systems is the norm. So what’s next? According to a Meta blog post, robots will soon be roaming our halls “to accomplish a task like checking to see whether you locked the front door or retrieving a phone that’s ringing in an upstairs bedroom”.
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02 Yep, it’s the end everythingall-whiteof Colour is back in a big way and you don’t have to go far for inspiration, according to Lynch. “Go out for a walk and look at plants and rocks together. You could almost take a picture and apply it at home.” More than an aesthetic choice, colour and tone can affect a home’s efficiency – a light-coloured roof reflects heat – as well as our moods. And we’re not just talking about blue to feel calm or orange to fuel creativity. “There’s been a preoccupation here with the renovators’ market and people considering resale value – that’s why we’ve ended up with a very bland approach to interiors,” says Lynch. toaboutcan’teveryone’s“Post-COVID-19,realisedyouliveyourlifethinkingresalevalue.Dothingsenjoyyourhome.”
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03 Get ready, the robots are coming Love it or loathe it, toddlers have a new family member to nag, “Hey, Siri, play Baby Shark!” There are plenty of other ways that artificial intelligence impacts home life – and they’re evolving fast. Autonomous vacuum cleaners first blew minds in the ’90s, while smart Designer Fiona Lynch at the Ace Hotel Sydney (above), which inspired a capsule collection of pieces produced with waste materials and local fabrication (opposite)
Architect Nik Dunoski of carbon-neutral practice Smart Design
“Regenerative buildings restore the health and resilience of ecosystems, economies, cultures and people.” So says the International Living Future Institute, which operates the Living Building Challenge (LBC) – “the built environment’s most ambitious performance standard”. To make the grade, registered new builds must tick off 20 imperatives in seven responsiblecategories,performanceincludingwateruse and net positive energy, access to nature and ecology of place.
With the UN estimating the world’s population will hit eight billion by the end of this year, addressing housing availability and affordability is more essential than ever. So, what if a three-bedroom home could be constructed and move-in ready within 24 hours? And cost up to 15 per cent less than a traditional build? That’s the promise of American developer Alquist, which uses state-of-the-art 3D printing technology to create “affordable, sustainable, innovative homes”. In Australia, Dubbo Regional Council is considering it. “I’m planting the seed in readiness for what we hope we’ll see in our city in the next year or two,” councillor Matt Wright told the ABC. heroesnet-zerobe
We’ve all ordered things online that didn’t work out – a bedhead that doesn’t look right, a comically small chair, an ugly lamp. But the future solution rests in your hands: augmented reality (or AR) apps that let you visualise how things will look in your home before you add anything to cart. IKEA led the way in 2017 with IKEA Place – point your camera at your office wall to see if that Billy bookcase will work – and recently developed the IKEA Studio app to offer a 360-degree interior design experience.
HOMES SPECIAL REPORT 134 06
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According to Bruce Mountain, director of the Victoria Energy Policy Centre at Victoria University, a net-zero home is “one in which the carbon emissions associated with the home are at least matched by offsets purchased from others”.
Architect Nik Dunoski of Smart Design Studio (right) encourages clients to choose more eco-friendly materials such as Dekton by Cosentino (top), which is certified cradle-to-grave carbon neutral and can be used for flooring, benchtops and cladding
heightsreachstandardsBuildingnew
04 We can
– Mountain believes solar energy is the most accessible way to reduce your home’s carbon footprint. “It’s easy to do for most homeowners and in almost all cases it will pay for itself,” he says. “Australia has a truly exceptional rooftop solar sector and we are at the forefront of innovation.”
There are currently 21 local projects registered for LBC assessment, with the Sustainable Buildings Research Centre by Cox Architecture at Wollongong University in NSW the first to achieve full certification.
While measuring emissions can be subjective – do you count just the build or include ongoing emissions generated by the residents? Are the offsets you purchase genuine?
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Apple CEO Tim Cook called the future of augmented reality “profound”. It’s predicted to be worth more than $US12 billion (about $17 billion) in the retail sector by 2025.
As part of her practice, Lynch has created the free online Future Archive to catalogue emerging renewable and sustainable materials such as a “leather” product made from coconut waste and bio concrete.
Today, concrete production accounts for about 8 per cent of the world’s total CO2 emissions and twice as much concrete is used in the construction industry than any other material. It’s the second most-consumed material in the world, after water. Yet, as architect Nik Dunoski explains, it’s not as simple as labelling building materials “good” or “bad”.
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“The impact of materials is relative and it depends on how they’re used. Concrete can be useful where longevity and permanence are key requirements.” What is simple? Considering appropriate alternatives that have “an increasingly larger recycled component and an end-of-life strategy or take-back scheme”.
willmaterialsNewemerge
“A lot of the things on the website are quite experimental but maybe in 10 years they’ll just be the norm,” she says.
“are starting to question total open-plan living and whether it’s necessarily the right fit for them at all times”. Rather than an either/or argument, he believes the fix lies in thoughtful, multipurpose layouts. “Being able to design spaces that are flexible and adaptable as people’s needs change is a great way of doing more with less.”
HOMES SPECIAL REPORT 136 PereiraRomello 09
“I see a trend toward locally sourced materials and moving away from importing marble and stone from Europe,” says Lynch. “There are lots of amazing granites coming out of South Australia, in colour palettes of pinks and oranges.” And when using stone, Lynch encourages a less fussy approach that heroes the material, “going back to very simple and honest detailing, like a stone bench that’s raw rather than finished”. More broadly, she sees us looking back as we move forward. “Instead of building walls of joinery, people are taking more of the colonial approach of [buying] furniture pieces and working with local craftspeople to make them and create family heirlooms.” And while Australian-made is often said to be more expensive, Dunoski believes the books balance in the end. “I’ve found that the cost isn’t necessarily always more but when it is, the payback to the community is often much greater.”
furnitureandmaterialsAustralianforever
The Australian Bureau of Statistics reports that Australians spent $12.3 billion renovating their homes in 2021 (up 33 per cent on 2020, thanks to the pandemic), which is almost double the figure of a decade ago. “Here we’re constantly ripping stuff out and starting again and often [building] something that’s cheaper and of a lesser material,” says Lynch, who’d like to see people being “mindful of what you’re surrounding yourself with in your home and doing it slowly. Build a collection of pieces you’ve curated and that tell a story about you.”
The sanctuary-like apartment above Smart Design Studio in Sydney’s Alexandria
Work with what you have “Smaller-format living is definitely emerging as people seek to do more with less,” says Dunoski.
After spending more time than ever at home – living, working, isolating – Dunoski says some of his clients
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making places balanced usm.com Australia: Anibou – anibou.com.au Sydney 726 Bourke St. Redfern NSW 2016, 02 9319 0655 Melbourne 3 Newton Street, Cremorne VIC 3121, 03 9416 3671 info@anibou.com.au Play around with colours, shapes and dimensions and design your own furniture with our online configurator New Zealand: ECC – ecc.co.nz Auckland 39 Nugent St Grafton 1023, 09 379 9680 Christchurch 145 Victoria Street, Christchurch Central 8013, 03 353 0586 Wellington 61 Thorndon Quay, Pipitea 6021, 04 473 3456 info@ecc.co.nz
PARISI stays at the forefront of global design trends by constantly communicating and working with its Italian partners and local interior designers. The team also attends international trade shows, such as Bologna’s CERSAIE (International Exhibition of Ceramic Tile and Bathroom Furnishings) and Milan’s Salone del Mobile, the world’s largest furniture design"We’refair.very well known as an Australian representative in this space. In fact, whenever we’re back in the exhibition halls in Bologna, we don’t really get to see much. Everyone is constantly stopping Filippo to say hello,” says Franco. "His passion and drive are still very much an intrinsic part of the PARISI company.”
The company was formed in 1995 when Sicilian-born Sydneysider Filippo Parisi identified The look of luxury
It’s an ethos that has driven luxurious interior products company PARISI for more than a quarter of a century; the desire to bring innovative, Italian-inspired doorware, tapware, bathroom fixtures and furniture to Australian homes and commercial projects.
At PARISI, bathrooms take centrestage. Here are the three hottest trends of the moment. that the Australian market was extremely limited in what it offered, particularly in terms of high-quality products. “Back then, the market was only dominated by a few players,” says PARISI CEO – and Filippo’s son – Franco (left). “My father made it his mission to give Australian consumers access to luxurious, innovative designs that add something special to their homes. “He could speak Italian, his mother tongue, so he started exploring the possibility of forming Italian partnerships. Today, out of our many partners, there are at least five companies who we’ve worked with from the beginning.”
No longer just functional rooms, today’s bathrooms should be stylish sanctuaries, where quality design, craftsmanship and cutting-edge products combine to create luxurious spaces to be proud of.
Presented by PARISI
As for why Italian design is so special, Franco says it’s because Italians are always looking to innovate. "They want to reinvent, to do something special and give themselves a point of difference to everyone else. It’s a pleasure to bring the best-designed, quality products to the Australian market.” Here, Franco shares his take on this year’s hottest bathroom design trends. Add some colour “What is on-trend at the moment and something we’re able to facilitate quite uniquely, is the matching – or even contrasting – of the basin, toilet and bath in a colour other than white. Ceramica Flaminia’s range features soft, elegant lines in a range of harmonious colours, including the material tones of clay and cement, which are really strong right now. These luxe products deserve to be the statement pieces in a bathroom, so pare the tiles and tapware back and keep them monochromatic so they aren’t competing for attention.”
Left: Ceramica Flaminia Nuda Flat Wall Hung Basin in Rosso Reubens
Update your bathroom today with PARISI. parisi.com.au Right: Riga vanity range. Below: Newform’s Solo Steel range Let it shine
“We’re seeing the metallic trend in the use of stainless steel and also in ceramics that feature a gold or silver lining for a wow factor. Newform’s Solo Steel basin was launched at Salone del Mobile in June and features a countertop or freestanding piece in sustainable stainless steel. It’s available in finishes such as copper brushed bronze and can be paired with tapware in a polished finish for a contrasting yet complementary look. Again, it’s very much a feature piece that needs to be the centre of attention with room to shine in a bathroom space. I’d recommend using an interior designer if you want to be daring with materials and designs such as this.”
Give it a lift
“It’s been a long time coming but having a wall-hung toilet and vanity unit is the way to go in a bathroom. It may not sound like the most cutting-edge trend but if you want a space that looks and feels spacious and is easier to clean then keeping everything suspended – except the bath, obviously – is the only way to go. We’re also seeing wall-hung vanities as beautiful pieces of high-end bathroom furniture in their own right. The PARISI textured Riga range is clad in premium moisture-resistant joinery with a choice of natural marble or MyTop Fondovalle Italian porcelain for a high-end finish. People are looking for that soft detail in a bathroom.”
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142 Why workplace mental wellbeing is a strategic issue 152 How SMEs can overcome skill shortages 154 Steve Cox’s journey from retail to tourism Steve Cox, CEO, Destination NSW WalkerNic
WELLNESSTOWARDSWORKING
When Steven Worrall started as managing director of Microsoft Australia and New Zealand in 2017, he worked hard to make his mark – all while his father was dying of cancer and his mother was descending into dementia. But juggling the new role with the management of his dad’s palliative care at home, he felt himself buckling under the strain. “I wasn’t keeping up,” says the father of three, “but I felt I just had to push through.” It was only later he realised he should have traded his stoicism for support. “Being a bit more open and vulnerable with those around me at work would have been a better way for me to go.”
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CORPORATE AUSTRALIA WAS ALREADY CONCERNED ABOUT MENTAL HEALTH. THEN COVID MADE THE ISSUE UNAVOIDABLE. NOW THAT IT’S A TOPIC OF BOARDROOM DISCUSSION, COMPANIES ARE WORKING TO TRANSFORM THEIR CULTURES, KEEP EMPLOYEES HAPPY AND ATTRACT NEW RECRUITS.
Since then, Worrall has advocated for more “psychologically safe” workplaces as chair of Corporate Mental Health Alliance Australia (CMHAA), which launched in 2020. The aim? “To make talking about mental health in the workplace normal and natural.”
STORY BY SUSAN HORSBURGH
In today’s competitive talent market, Jono Nicholas, the head of mental health consultants The Wellbeing Outfit, spends a lot of time with organisations discussing their employee value proposition. “Beyond financial incentives, that centres around ‘How do you create a great place to work?’” In a workplace that fits the bill, “you feel like you’ve got friends at work that have your back, who like you for you. You feel as if you can be authentic and express your ideas. And you also feel you can work towards being the best version of yourself, as opposed to being on a treadmill churning out work, not learning or growing.”
Two years ago, companies had to deal with the mental health emergency at hand, dishing out Uber Eats vouchers and extra days off, but now business leaders are taking the long view, eager to create a happier workplace and more enticing proposition for potential recruits. Mental health is now a strategic issue and the focus has switched from the individual to the organisation, from treatment to prevention.
Leaders set the example for staff to follow. “If leaders are working really long hours and not looking after their own wellbeing, it sends an implied message,” says Beyond Blue’s O’Brien, “even if it’s not what’s being said.” Yet despite the focus on senior leaders, all the data shows that it’s team leadership that matters. Manager training, for example, is one of the best evidencebased investments an organisation can make. “If your manager cares about you, knows your kids’ names, doesn’t call you after hours or ask you to do unreasonable work, your day-to-day experience is fundamentally different, no matter what the CEO does in a big company,” explains Nicholas. “When you look at wellbeing, team leaders are also the group that are most stretched personally – [aged] between, say, 28 and 45, often with carer responsibilities. They might have financial stress because they’ve just bought their first house.” If they can be supported and trained to manage their team well, he says, the impact on an organisation’s mental health will far outweigh that of any meditation app.
To give employers guidance, the National Mental Health Commission last year released a Blueprint for Mentally Healthy Workplaces – a best-practice approach that Beyond Blue’s chief community officer, Patrice O’Brien, says has long been missing. “People often think a ‘mentally healthy workplace’ means the big, glossy things, like mental health days. But often what it means is ensuring people have good role clarity, great leadership and the resources and support they need to do their job well – and then they’re recognised when they deliver.”
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COVID has fast-tracked that goal. About five million Australians suffered from a mental health condition before the pandemic, missing on average 10 to 12 work days annually. In 2020, the Productivity Commission found mental illness cost the country up to $39 billion in lost participation and productivity. But lockdowns and homeschooling wiped out many people’s emotional reserves. According to the World Health Organization, the global prevalence of anxiety and depression rose 25 per cent in COVID’s first year. In response, there’s been a cultural shift in the workplace, with emotional wellbeing no longer a no-go topic. “What it’s done is bring the issue very much to the fore,” says CMHAA executive director Kim Hamrosi. “As a business, you can no longer avoid tackling it.”
“We don’t want to just be about yoga, resilience training and fruit bowls,” says Hamrosi. “It’s really about what we can do as organisations structurally… that upstream view.”
Instead of being initiative-led, businesses would be better off listening to what their staff actually need. Financial stress is an emerging wellbeing issue, which means organisations could offer financial advice when an employee, for instance, gets a pay rise or returns from parental leave. “[Another] practical thing a leader can do is [encourage] people to take two weeks leave in the next six months,” says Nicholas, who is also EY Oceania’s chief mental health advisor. “It’s concrete and not that sexy but it makes a massive difference.”
Talent retention is a hot topic for leaders across all industries, particularly in the wake of the pandemic shake-up.
There are sobering findings in new research conducted by antipodean workplace wellbeing platform Groov. In a survey of 1240 Australians and New Zealanders, Groov found that 37 per cent think about leaving their workplace at least once a week, with 20 per cent saying that they don’t feel their overall wellbeing is supported by their employer. Of those, 55 per cent consider quitting several times a week and 36 per cent say they have that feeling most days. It’s a clear signal that companies of every size and stripe ignore workplace wellbeing at their“Moneyperil.is important but people also want to feel valued, cared for and treated with dignity,” says Adam Clark, Groov co-founder and CEO. “If workforces don’t provide this support then they lose people – and the top performers and high potentials leave first.”
Groov draws on cutting-edge mental-health research to help Australian and New Zealand businesses transform their culture. “If you take the time to bake wellbeing into the workplace properly, the current issues around talent retention, recruitment, stress and burnout will hugely decrease or disappear,” says Groov’s other co-founder, All Blacks great Sir John Kirwan, who revealed his mental-health struggles after he retired from rugby union. Behavioural change expert Dr Fiona Crichton leads the Groov clinical team. She and Kirwan talked to thousands of workers and leaders about what they needed. “Groov is a platform that makes mental wellbeing
Dr Crichton says that more than ever, people are speaking up about the importance of mental wellbeing in the workplace. “There is a generation who wants balance in their life and wellbeing to be a priority for their employers. If it’s not, they’ll be out the door to somewhere that Finddoes.”outmore and get a free information pack at groovnow.com
Presented by Groov
Companies partnering with Groov include Cisco, the NSW Department of Planning and Environment, the Royal Australasian College of Surgeons and Fletcher Building in Australia. Following an initial roll-out to their global IoT team, Cisco is now expanding Groov to sectors of its 20,000-strong global sales“Ourteam.team’s performance is out of this world; we’ve had 18 consecutive quarters of growth and we have one of the lowest attrition rates in the wider sales and IT industries, sitting at around 2 per cent,” says Dave Wilson, managing director, IoT Global Sales, at Cisco. “That’s not by chance. Our results are directly linked to our commitment to developing our people, looking after them and creating an environment where they feel valued. “Businesses used to talk about wellbeing impacting performance and how results would follow. We’re on the other side of that journey and I can say that results did follow.”
Global mental health advocate and Groov co-founder, Sir John Kirwan
Finding yourGroov Companies are searching for ways to retain and attract employees – and keep them happy. An innovative workplace wellbeing platform offers a suite of supportive solutions.
easy to consume and deliver across an organisation,” she says. Using Groov’s step-by-step playbook, the platform works across the organisational, leadership and individual levels. It enables companies of all sizes to tailor a mental wellbeing program that meets the needs of their organisation and their employees. The playbook helps each company build their program, rolling out modules and wellbeing rituals to staff, who also have access to the Groov app for individual wellbeing tools.
Josh Foreman, the founder and CEO of InDebted, has no delusions about the employee-pulling power of his business. “Hey, who wants to come and work at a debt-collection company?” he jokes. “No-one’s running out the door to do that.” Which is why the consumer-finance fintech introduced a fourday work week last year, offering (within reason) unlimited leave and allowing staff to work anywhere, with a quarterly office stipend. The perks won InDebted the top spot in the AFR BOSS Best Places to Work awards this year – and some priceless PR.
ADOPTING A FOUR-DAY WORK WEEK
CREATING MENTAL HEALTH CHAMPIONS
For individuals, most large companies offer an Employee Assistance Program but there’s been surprisingly little take-up of counselling services given the community demand, possibly due to confidentiality concerns. “Either they don’t know it’s there,” says CMHAA’s Hamrosi, “or they don’t feel comfortable using it.”
Corporate Australia has stepped up its commitment to better staff wellbeing but workers compensation insurer Allianz released data last year revealing workplace mental health injuries are on the rise.
A major attraction is the remote-working policy: a strategy manager is currently working in Spain, for example, after houseswapping with a colleague; another is working while visiting family in Brazil; and a cluster of engineers use their $500 quarterly stipend on a co-working space in Sydney’s Manly so they can surf on work days. “If you’re going to get the best out of your people,” says Foreman, “they need to be in the right headspace.”
Undoubtedly, workplace bullying, harassment and chronic stress can destroy a person’s confidence but work can also bolster mental health, offering financial security, social connection and personal growth. As Hamrosi points out, “Good work is good for you.” Young people, in particular, seek out employers who support them as individuals and encourage a sense of purpose and they’re reluctant to settle for less. “Often you get the best out of people when you let them be open and bring their full selves to work,” says O’Brien. “The workplaces that do that will be the ones that attract the best and brightest – and get the best business results.”
Commonwealth Bank of Australia appointed its chief mental health officer, Dr Laura Kirby, at the start of 2021 but the bank has had staff wellbeing in its sights for some years. With the launch of its Thrive portal six years ago, CBA gave its 45,000 employees
The startup, which launched in 2016 and grew from 70 to 239 global employees in less than a year (it now has 249), was prepared to take a 20 per cent productivity hit if it meant finding talented people for its hard-to-fill roles, such as software engineers, but the data shows productivity has only dropped 5 per cent and the number of job applicants has skyrocketed by 280 per cent.
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Not only that, 98 per cent of InDebted employees have reported better mental health since they were granted Fridays off, suggesting the most effective wellbeing moves might not be “mental health initiatives” at all. With the extra time to themselves, says the CEO, staff can do whatever feeds their souls, whether that’s caring for their baby, volunteering at the RSPCA or working on a side hustle. “We’re seeing people use those extra days to travel and reconnect with family and friends and that’s translated into a much happier, more productive team,” says Foreman, who’d noticed widespread burnout last year. “It’s certainly had an impact on my mental health.”
“We use metrics as well as more qualitative information – just talking to people to understand where they might be at,” says Kirby. “It’s genuine care for our people that drives this but certainly you see that where you’ve got high-performing teams, there’s generally high mental health and wellbeing.”
The bank gauges the collective wellbeing through semi-annual surveys but also trains managers to check in with their team members.
When your company’s mission is “to improve the wellbeing of the world through the outdoors”, your mental health strategy had better involve nature – and so it does at Kathmandu. To mark its relaunched brand identity last year, the New Zealand-based retailer introduced its Joyful Out There fund, which means the company’s 1800 workers get to go rock climbing, horseriding and zip-lining in the name of team bonding and wellbeing.
Employee satisfaction fuels “more innovation, more joy, more fun”, explains Edwards, which makes prioritising wellbeing “critical to the success of any business”.
TAKING IT OUTSIDE
“Not only have our people spent time together outdoors, they have also had the opportunity to learn and grow together, trying new activities and conquering fears,” says Rebecca Edwards, general manager of People, Culture and Safety. “Our teams have expressed that the energy and joy they’ve shared have lasted long after their experience was Company-fundedover.” outdoor adventures top a list of Kathmandu wellbeing initiatives, including accreditation in mental health first aid, access to a wellbeing app and staff support groups on Facebook Workplace, where people can share their problems. The business also runs Acts of Kindness challenges and offers employees paid time off to celebrate “work-aversaries” and volunteer in military and fire and rescue services.
“Mindful Mondays”, “TED talk Tuesdays”, “Thinking Thursdays” – the Affinity office is all about reflection (and rampant alliteration).
BANNING MEETINGS ONE DAY A WEEK
Since defining its brand purpose in 2015, the 20-year-old digital agency has set about “creating a culture of world-class thinking”.
It began with “Library Hour”, an hour of learning every Tuesday. At 9am, the automated email replies go on and workers study whatever they want, from a conflict-resolution course to a masterclass with movie director Ron Howard. “It’s a gift to say, ‘We don’t want you to do anything except self-guided learning to further your own interests,’” says co-founder and chief brand officer Angela Smith.
Following Affinity’s most recent move – a ban on Thursday meetings – 83 per cent of its 30 staff members reported improved mental wellbeing at work, which helped the agency take out the wellbeing category in the AFR BOSS Best Places to Work awards.
“You can’t bring your best thinking every day,” says Smith, “unless you’re happy and engaged.” In fact, not a single employee has left Affinity in the past 12 months.
The company has psychologists give talks on mental health and workers can take a day off if they’re struggling. “Advertising and marketing haven’t had the best reputation for supporting people in the past – it can be high pressure, with a lot of deadlines. We’ve tried to cultivate a proactive culture of mental wellness.”
Some initiatives have met with pushback, says Smith, but the company’s “dogged” commitment to its mental health strategy has paid off. “A great employee experience correlates with a great culture and that means better commercial outcomes. Great EX leads to great CX, which leads to a bottom-line uplift. It’s really that simple.”
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model with lengthy wait times to produce financial results and limited visibility of our procurement expenditure,” says Lizzio. “An intelligent ERP was required as a platform for sustainable growth.”
Enhanced visibility over annual spending has resulted in 10 per cent of the organisation’s full-time equivalent employee hours being redeployed, freeing clinical staff to spend more time on patient care. Consistent tracking of clinical excellence targets, such as zero wait times, has also enabled greater transparency for investors.
Designing personalised treatment for cancer patients is incredibly complex, requiring clinical excellence and a pursuit of innovation. But it’s the simple things, like streamlining day-to-day operations, that are also helping Australian company GenesisCare grow into one of the world’s largest integrated oncology care
Foundedproviders.in2004, GenesisCare now has more than 440 locations across Australia, the US, UK and Spain, and serves over 400,000 patients globally. It’s committed to bringing world-class cancer care to patients in areas of high unmet need and has eight centres, as well as several government partnerships, in regional Australia. “We currently have five new centres under development in Australia alone,” says GenesisCare’s executive manager for oncology Australia, Richard Lizzio. As it expands its services, GenesisCare is constantly looking for ways to improve patient outcomes. “We’re at the forefront of technology and precision medicine tailoring treatment to each individual patient,” says Dr Marie Burke, GenesisCare’s chief medical officer. New treatment approaches include predictive testing, such as DCISionRT, a precision medicine test for women diagnosed with early stage breast cancer that predicts whether radiation therapy will be of additional benefit to surgery alone. Another approach, known as theranostics, is an innovative step towards personalised medicine, combining PET/CT imaging and radiopharmaceuticals to diagnose and treat prostate cancer and complex cancers. Efficient day-to-day business operations are essential for GenesisCare to provide such individualised medical interventions. In 2018, the organisation streamlined its financial and procurement systems with the enterprise resource planning (ERP) platform SAP S/4HANA. “Prior to engaging with SAP, we had a fairly inconsistent finance operating Care is key One of the world’s largest integrated oncology care providers is reaching more people and treating them faster than ever before thanks to investments in intelligent technologies.
Chief medical officer
Dr Marie Burke and executive manager, oncology, Richard Lizzio, at GenesisCare Australia
“An ERP system that can be seamlessly applied across different countries is imperative to providing integrated cancer care,” says Lizzio. “This means we can continue to improve the life outcomes for many more people across the Runglobe.”yourpersonal best with SAP. Find out more at sap.com
Presented by SAP
TENURE One year AGE 58 PREVIOUS ROLES Deputy
View From The Top INTERVIEW BY KIRSTEN GALLIOTT ILLUSTRATION BY MARC NEMORIN
and group
Some would say you are very brave because after the Royal Commission, AMP was seen as something of a poisoned chalice. Why did you want to take it on? I’ve had many people ask me that question and I find it a bit bizarre. When I got the phone call, I said to my husband, “You know what? I really want to do this.” It’s such an iconic brand and yes, it’s had some damage and it’s had some bad periods but what an opportunity to transition that into the new AMP. Does that require hard work? Yes. But I think it’s an amazing opportunity for me at the latter end of my executive career.
Product
How much of your decision was driven by your desire to make a difference? I know you’ve talked about the importance of legacy. That was a big part of my decision. I thought I could make a difference here. Now, I don’t think that’s egotistical – or I certainly hope it isn’t as I wouldn’t count myself as a person like that – but I really want to see this company restored to its glory days and certainly to be respected again.
ROLE
CURRENT CEO, AMP CEO executive, managing director, head of Marketing and for Asia Pacific, Insurance Asia/Pacific
ING
Alexis George A year ago, she took on one of the most difficult jobs in Australia. Now the CEO of AMP is focusing on making fast decisions, acting with intent and restoring respect.
How do you define good leadership?
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insurance, ANZ Wealth; regional
Wealth Australia, ANZ; global
operations, IT,
First, it’s making sure we play as one team because it’s not about an individual game. The other thing for me is authenticity. You can pretend to be someone you’re not for a short period of time but not for a long one. There are a few other things – not believing your own publicity, making sure you give permission to people around you to challenge and question you, and being brave and owning the decisions you make.
When women take on leadership roles at a time of crisis, it’s often referred to as a glass cliff. What are your thoughts on that?
I knew this wasn’t going to be an easy role but I’ve never shied away from things that are hard. I don’t know whether [the glass cliff] is true or not but I want to make sure it’s not true for the next generations. I want to make sure that women are given great opportunities in this country, more broadly as well, and that’s one way I can make a difference – by mentoring up-and-coming women, making sure we have an executive committee that’s diverse in all its forms and that we have programs in place that don’t stop women being promoted during times when they have children.
Rebuilding trust is a long game, isn’t it? Are you a patient person? I’m not sure that anyone who knows me would describe me as a patient person [laughs]. I always want to go faster and I acknowledge that can be a strength and a weakness. When I reflect on what we’ve achieved over the past six months, I think it’s important to be a little bit proud of that – while also having this anxiety that we’re not moving fast enough.
150 INNOVATE
But isn’t that the CEO’s lament? You always want to be doing more? I think so. You never say, “I think I should have made that decision slower.” We’re in a world that’s changing quickly and we have to change quickly with it.
Alexis, the market responded very favourably to your appointment because you’re seen as a steady pair of hands. How important is personal reputation to you? I’ve never left any place of employment on bad terms and I’d like to think that will continue to happen. Personal reputation is important because we need good people in this organisation and I accept that my reputation helps attract good people. I judge myself by questioning, “Did I do the best I could every day? Did I treat people with respect even if I had to make difficult decisions?” That’s more important to me than whether I get a positive headline.
How did you prepare for the role?
Well, for good or bad, I went on gardening leave and two weeks after that, the only place I could go was my garden because we were all in lockdown. I get bored very quickly so I had to structure my days. I spent a lot of time reading about the financial results and the annual reports in detail. I also spoke to many stakeholders about the organisation – our shareholders, some of our customers, the regulators –and to a number of people about the opportunities and challenges we faced. That made a huge difference because when I walked in on day one, I already had a reasonable view about what we needed to do. Having that time to sit and think with no other distraction was really important. It can take significant time to build trust but it can be rapidly destroyed. How will you regain the trust of your customers?
How are you attracting new people? It must be hard to rebuild during a skills shortage... Yes, it’s certainly time for the labourer as opposed to the employer. But when we employ people, we’re really honest about what a career at AMP looks like. If you want stability and everything to be the status quo, this is not the organisation for you. But if you want exciting opportunities, development, embracing the new – come here because we are really trying to change quickly and we are really facing in to the technology changes that are occurring in our industry. Is that exciting? Yes. Is it scary at times? Yes. But it’s going to be a great ride. Is it ever scary for you as well? Look, if I said I wasn’t scared at times I’d be a liar. Of course, I am. I don’t like to go to bed feeling scared so I write down the things we need to think about. Then, when I wake up the next day, I go, “Right, we’re going to work through these ideas to get to a solution.” I don’t ever feel fearful enough that I’m not going to take action – I always have the view that we can work through anything if I’ve got the right people in the room.
It’s also not about shying away from the bad things. People want to get up and tell all the good news but I also need to be honest with our teams and our customers about where there are still areas that we have to address.
If you’re grappling with an issue, do you have people outside of AMP that you talk with? One hundred per cent. I think you should always reach out for help – you don’t have to take the advice you’re given. I have nine great friends who I worked with in my first job in financial services, many of whom are senior in various organisations around Australia. I trust every one of them with my life and we still go away together once a year. They’re really important because they can give different insights. I also have someone who is a partner in a consulting firm we use and I spend half an hour with him every week. And I hadn’t had a coach for many years but I’ve taken up a coach again because I think it’s important for me to make the right decisions at the right times.
Was it always your plan to become a CEO? What was your career strategy? I wish I could say that I had this lovely career plan laid down and I became a CEO as a result of it. It wasn’t that organised. I got to be a CEO because I had the most wonderful mentors. I wouldn’t say I’ve always been brave – when risky or new jobs were put up, they pushed me forward and said, “You can do this.” At times when I was doubting myself, some wonderful people in my life said, “Off you go, I’ll support you. You’re going to fail at times but I’m here.” I said to one of my close friends after the last AGM, “I don’t think I would have ever thought I would do that.”
What’s the one piece of advice you’d give a brand-new CEO? Don’t be afraid to ask for help. You don’t have to do it by yourself. There are a lot of people out there who are prepared to step in and help you.
Trust is built by doing what you say you’re going to do: day in, day out, day in, day out. It’s not about making big promises. I’m very well aware of the big shadows that leaders cast. People are watching us, customers are watching us and if I say one thing and do another, that’s immediately a negative.
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Set up successfor
When a team member had to relocate to Canada but wanted to stay with Kablamo, the company sped up its launch in North America, which opened up opportunities for existing and prospective staff.
Staff satisfaction is now the company’s secret sauce for talent acquisition and endorsements account for the majority of its successful new hires.
Small Business STORY
Become a best-in-industry magnet
Encourage and train existing staff Canberra-based Capital Brewing has about 80 staff across its brewery, two tap rooms and Sydney office. The craftbrew boom means trained brewers are scarce so Capital nurtures connections between its hospitality crews and brew teams. Tap-room staff work in the room where the beer is produced and the brewers tell them how the beer is made, says managing director Laurence Kain. The knowledge-infused workplace brings out potential brewers from the hospitality staff. A training and assessment program is offered to the would-be brewers and candidates are paid to take the online Institute of Brewing and Distilling course. Appeal to the whole talent pool
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Taking the bias out of recruitment helps alleviate skill shortages. Hyne Timber produces and supplies timber and has more than 700 employees. It began diversifying its recruiting process almost five years ago and about 15 per cent of vacancies have been filled by women in its previously “manned” main plant.
Cultivating a diversity of thought and process in hiring, says Alison Newman, Hyne’s general manager of people and culture, “helps us to make the best decisions we can”.
Some of the changes Hyne made in how it recruits staff include using genderneutral language in job advertisements, sending team members to shopping centres and schools to talk to men and women about their prospects in the timber industry and assessing candidates by panels that are 50 per cent women.
Angus Dorney is the co-CEO of digital product design and engineering company Kablamo and is in the eye of the skillsshortage storm – digital talent has long been in high demand. BY NATALIE FILATOFF HIRING SMEs need to think differently about recruitment, retention and untapped workforces if they want to combat skill shortages.
The Great Resignation, the freeze on immigration and the push for growth to meet industries’ market demands have led to a much-publicised hole in the labour market. The Australian Bureau of Statistics reports 480,100 vacant positions in May this year, an 111 per cent increase from February 2020. So what can smaller businesses do to attract and retain talent?
NOW
He says experts attract the top candidates. Kablamo, which has 65 employees, has technology leaders known for excellence on its team and that “has a gravitational effect on other talent who are keen to work with them”. Create own-brand headhunters Kablamo offers its employees “a referral bonus when we hire people they’ve recommended and they pass probation”.
Tap-room staff at Capital Brewing in Canberra
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The Destination NSW chief hadn’t worked in government or tourism before. But he knows how to sell the state’s attributes, thanks to a diverse career in retail.
Unite and align with your stakeholders
STEVE COX
154 INNOVATE Career Path INTERVIEW BY KIRSTEN GALLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY BY NIC WALKER
CEO, Destination NSW “I was an unexpected appointment. People go, ‘Why is a guy who ran Dymocks now running the state’s tourism agency?’ Well, it’s because I can think very broadly around the challenges and I always work with [business] models. I can’t tell you how many projects failed when I first started at Dymocks because the thinking wasn’t done upfront and the business case wasn’t considered properly. In government it’s the same; if you consider what you’re trying to achieve, do the work to frame it properly and have a strong business case then you can present that case to ministers, treasurers, premiers, secretaries and everyone else. You’ve got a much better chance of success. And sometimes it takes multiple parties to be talking about what you’re trying to achieve – not just your own voice – so you want to have the stakeholders aligned. Bringing the [tourism] industry together is a lesson I certainly took from COVID. We established a Visitor Economy call and invited about 150 of the top people to talk about the challenges they were facing. We’d then feed that straight into the government’s response to the pandemic.”
May 2020-present
“I always wanted to build my career and I realised that not having a degree was going to be a real impediment to my future success. So I left David Jones to do my MBA. I was fortunate to be in a financial position where I could study full-time. It was the first time in my career that I focused on building connections and establishing my network and that has been instrumental to my success. It also gave me the ability to think about pretty much any business challenge and not know all the details but still know what I need to ask. We bought a company when I was at Dymocks. I knew what to do because I’d done an MBA and we studied acquisition, merger and acquisition, the challenges, the value, creation or loss thereof, the multiples and financial analysis. The MBA gave me a toolset that I’ve used throughout my career.”
“From the day I started, everyone used to say it was the death of department stores and yet they’re still there and they’ve got their place. I learnt a lot about looking ahead at trends and making decisions – sometimes tough decisions – based on where you think the business is going to be. In retail, you’ve got to manage inventory and your buy. If you believe you’re going to head into a downturn, you don’t want to have too much stock sitting on your shelves. The retail industry is a hypercompetitive environment where if you don’t predict that future path and you don’t move fast, your competitors will take your share straightaway. Where do we think we’re going to be? How are we going to get there? What do we need to do to be able to deliver against that? You’ve got to make those calls.”
“When I ran stores at David Jones, I used to start my day on the dock. Every day I’d go to the receiving dock and meet the team down there to find out what’s coming in and what the challenges are. If the dock’s not functioning properly, the store doesn’t function properly. Sometimes the people in those roles can be forgotten – the kudos goes to the person who makes the sale on the shop floor. Right from the outset, I always had a strong belief in recognising the full supply chain that makes an organisation successful and recognising people as people. Even to this day I see people I used to work with at David Jones who say, ‘You were the one manager who used to come and recognise us in the back-of areas and we were so grateful that you did.’ To me, it should be a bit of a no-brainer but it often gets forgotten.”
155 customerMaximise loyalty 2012-2020 Dymocksdirector,Managing Embrace improvementself2008-2010 MBA, BusinessUniversityMacquarieSchool Be prepared to make tough calls 2005-2008 Regional Davidmanager,generalJones
Recognise contributionevery 2002-2005 Store Davidmanager,Jones Discover motivateswhatpeople 2001-2002 State Jeansmanager,salesWest
Learn all parts of the business 1990-1992 Sales Davidtraining,managementassistant/Jones
“Frankly, I struggled for three years through electrical engineering at The University of NSW and ended up leaving. I had a parttime job at David Jones, which is where my retail career began. I was selling small appliances but joined the management training program. I think many organisations have perhaps lost sight of the value of training people who have got potential to proceed through the company. I got placed in all different parts of the business, from the receiving dock to the buying office. Retail is about so much more than the shop floor and it was the first time I really started to open my eyes to the buying process, the forecasting process and the cash-flow process. My thinking broadly about business challenges really started there.”
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“When I joined Dymocks, the minister for small business came out and said, in a very helpful manner, that there would be no more bookstores in two years. We had to establish a vision for the stores, cut through the negative commentary and talk about why bookstores are still so valuable. We had a very large customer loyalty program called Book Lover but we didn’t leverage that much so I said, ‘We’ll be able to use customer data to keep our customers in our stores and sell more to them.’ It’s easier to sell to existing customers than attract new people in a market that’s in turmoil. The Pareto rule is something that I believe in – 80 per cent of the value comes from 20 per cent [of the inputs] in general – and if you look at the customer data at that time, 80 per cent of the sales were coming from 20 per cent of our customers.”
“In the retail world, specialty stores traditionally don’t look at department stores for people they want to employ. I wanted to ensure that I didn’t end up being a 30-year department store person who was unemployable. Glorious Sun Enterprises, the company that used to own Jeans West, was a big manufacturer so it was my first foray into vertical integrations and I had to manage multiple sites and stores. It was also the first time I had to manage teams of people who were not all with me at the same time. We had something like 60 stores in NSW, with young teams that required ongoing motivation and enthusiasm… We had to open their eyes to the importance of the role they were doing – they weren’t just selling a pair of jeans, they were helping somebody feel better about themselves.”
Need to know Founder Robert
Where did the idea come from? Neo-Bionica was founded out of frustration that medical device innovation was stalling in Australia, the birthplace of world-leading inventions such as the cochlear hearing implant and ResMed’s sleep apnoea technology.
“Australia has long punched above its weight in medical device innovation but we kept hitting a wall,” says Robert Klupacs, Bionics Institute CEO and Neo-Bionica founder and board member. “Great innovation was happening at the Bionics Institute and The University of Melbourne but we couldn’t raise money to get it tested. We came together as two players well-known for innovation and put our money where our mouth was to get more Australian inventions to market.”
What is it? A brand-new facility on the campus of Melbourne’s St Vincent’s Hospital, purpose-built to make and test medical device prototypes – the first and only one of its kind in the country. Previously, all such work had to be done offshore, says Klupacs, “and it was killing us”. Since 2017, he has been CEO of the Bionics Institute, originally established to commercialise the cochlear implant. Klupacs made the case that building the capability to make and test medical devices for in-human trials onshore would shave off millions of dollars and years of time. “We want to stimulate the ecosystem and provide a bridge to the next phase,” he says, adding that Australia also has the advantage of being regarded as the easiest place in the world to do first-in-human clinical trials. Neo-Bionica’s facility has 3D printers, high-speed machining tools and medical device microfabrication equipment. The capacity
58 Staff 15 Headquarters Melbourne Founding investors Bionics Institute and The University of Melbourne First customer A United developerimplantableStates-basedmedicaldeviceinJuly2021 Market valuation Not disclosed
NEO-BIONICA
How did they get it off the ground? The Bionics Institute negotiated with St Vincent’s Hospital to take over an old wing. “We had to gut it completely.” The two ISO 7 cleanrooms had precise building specifications and the decision to undertake such a technical build in the hospital was as much about location as the availability of the space. “We wanted to be close to the clinicians – that’s in our DNA and why we’ve been successful,” says Klupacs. “Doctors come and knock on the door and have a chat to our engineers, which they wouldn’t do if the facility wasn’t right there. You have to get close to the customer; they have a concept that we want to turn into a product. That’s why we’re here.”
to make complex devices in Australia is a game-changer, says Klupacs, who is hopeful it will attract a “reverse brain drain” of bioengineers, scientists and researchers.
What’s next? “Neurotechnology is our sweet spot. We’re primarily working on implantable medical devices that stimulate or record the central nervous system or the peripheral nervous system. We’re known for that – we have four United States customers and others from around the world approaching us.” Neo-Bionica received $4 million from the Victorian government after it launched. “Governments want to get people trained to understand what it is to work in a hybrid academic/commercial interface, learning all these different skills that could lead to the development of a manufacturing industry.” STORY BY JANE NICHOLLS
Upstart
Just over a year after its launch, an ambitious dream to fast-track innovation in Australian medical devices is already bearing fruit. Klupacs,
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“The MBA was incredibly important for the role that I’m doing today,” says Steve Cox, CEO of Destination NSW, who completed his MBA at Macquarie Business School (MQBS) in 2010. “What you get from an MBA is the depth of view from different perspectives of organisations and the world that we operate within. If you can think broadly around all the different parts of an organisation then you’ve got a much better chance of considering the full picture of what you need to do to make it successful.”
Taking on an MBA is both a challenge and a privilege – it unlocks time to dive deep into ideas, connects you with a cohort of like-minded people and builds the skills of powerful reflection.
Well-rounded leaders are in short supply, resulting in a common conundrum for companies and their people: subject-matter experts are boosted into top roles without necessarily having the leadership skills. “But leadership capabilities are something that you can learn and that you should give your explicit focus,” says Professor Yvonne Breyer, deputy dean of education and employability at MicrocredentialsMQBS.and short courses have their place and are popular right now but Breyer says the MBA brings a different pace and a deeper outcome to learning. “When you commence an MBA, you’re entering a safe place to slow down, to think and reflect – that is one of the key purposes of a university. Our MBA students are often in the midst of several big life commitments – they may have a young family, they’re in a demanding role and already in leadership or just on the cusp of it. It’s a pivotal moment of personal and professional development and giving yourself the time for an MBA – even though that time can be difficult to find – is something unique that cannot be achieved via quick bursts of short courses.”
This is your moment
Learn more about Macquarie University Business School and its MBA program at mq.edu.au
The value of the MBA includes the cohort, who go on to become lifelong friends and confidants for many alumni. “You’re going on a journey with like-minded people,” says Breyer. “You’re with other emerging leaders from across different industries and walks of life and the classroom is where you can take time out from your busy lives and explore things deeply. You can be vulnerable and curious and admit you don’t know something, which can feel like a risk – perceived or real – in the workplace.”
While MBA students have different motivations for taking on the degree, all are there to improve their leadership skills and broad business acumen. “It sets you up for life,” says Breyer. “You’ll develop confidence, new ways of thinking and a mindset to continuously challenge yourself and reflect. And once you finish your MBA, you’ll find it is just the beginning, not the end.”
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158 INNOVATE Clock Wise INTERVIEW BY ALISON BOLEYN
08:30 I usually cycle to work. It’s 10 or 15 minutes and especially nice on days when it’s not raining. In London, that’s not so frequent but it’s better than 40 minutes on public transport. I’m a fan of belt drive bikes; they don’t have a chain so you don’t have to think about oil messing up your feet or trousers. I take my son to the nursery when I can. Now he can cycle on a balance bike himself.
07:30 I want to wake up naturally. I think if you’re waking up with an alarm clock you are, by definition, a little bit sleep-deprived. If I manage to wake up two hours before my three-year-old and my wife, I like to go for a run or a swim at the pool near us. But to be honest, this is more wishful thinking. The early part of the day is usually me making them breakfast.
09:00 We have subsidiaries in many countries. The first calls of the day are with Singapore or Japan, earlier for Australia. Every couple of months we have a one-hour, Japan-specific meeting with the people who build the product or run operations there. In banking, at the end of the day the Japanese use money in the same way as Westerners; their relationship to money is the same, except that I’ve heard some people in Japan send Christmas cards to their bank managers. This is something to look at through the lens of respect.
Part of Kristo Käärmann’s day is dedicated to doing someone else’s job. The co-founder and CEO of cross-borders payment company Wise (formerly TransferWise) wants to understand what it’s really like to work in his company.
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20:00 Address external emails and do any remaining follow-ups. A couple of times a day I check Twitter and scroll through the Google News selection on my Android phone, which has gotten pretty good.
“Meetings have to have a pre-read. I think it’s wasteful to start a meeting by talking about what we’re going to talk about.” ”
“
18:30 I try for half the days to get home by 7pm, right after my wife and kid have dinner but before the leftovers go cold. My wife and I play with my son or just follow him doing his things for the hour before his bedtime.
10:00 I try to meet one-on-one with my direct reports at least every two weeks. On this day, it’s the head of our engineering team. Oftentimes we walk while going through the agenda, partly so we have even the moderate physical movement of going to Allpress for a coffee. The engineering team is widely distributed, from Austin, Texas, to London and Budapest. We discuss how to organise ourselves so 600 engineers can work as effectively as 200 did, and how independent units can work on a lot of things in parallel once we get to 1000. We have about 70 teams of five to 10 engineers, all working asynchronously, focused on a country or currency or on a certain feature. They make 100 new releases of code – 100 updates going live in the apps – every day, which is an amazing feature when competitors sometimes talk about quarterly release cycles. How do we make it so everyone can publish features quickly at the same time as growing their teams? This is a common discussion.
On days when I have four or five meetings, even if they’re internal ones, it’s a useful trick to write notes at the end of the day and follow up with each person: “Hey, we discussed this and I said I’d do that; I’ll try to do it next week.” I try to get this done in an hour but usually the follow-ups are meaningful so it can take a few hours.
Assistants required Now that Kristo Käärmann is travelling more, he’s appointed an executive assistant. The Wise CEO gave up having one when the pandemic hit London in 2020 and made his own way through Google Calendar, Slack and online booking platforms. “Most people in the world don’t have an EA,” he says, “and they get by.” Services marketplace Airtasker has recorded growing interest in assistants on demand; there were 20 per cent more callouts using the term “virtual assistant” posted in January to April compared to that period last year and 38 per cent more than in 2019. In May, the average fee for virtual assistant tasks more than doubled year on year.
17:00
13:00 I spend four hours coding a feature with an engineering team. I’m not so proficient in software building so it usually takes me two or three weeks to get something useful live. I can’t take full time off to do it – I have my day job – but I can create a period of three weeks where I work on a feature that gets released to customers. Sometimes I join the customer support team for half a day and take calls. We have a team of more than 3300 people overall but it started with one, when I had to do every job. Now that I’ve given all the jobs away, in some ways my life is easier. But for me to lead the team, it’s important to remember how it is to do those jobs, to feel what the engineers feel when they build something. There’s so much more we can do now, given our resources and scale, but building software when we were five people 10 years ago is different to now, when we have 600 people building software.
22:00 If my wife and I have energy, we might watch Netflix. We are fans of Money Heist but at that time of day, not too particular. Usually by 10:30 or 11, it’s lights out for me.
12:00 Lunch is not with my direct reports but with a senior leader – today the head of design – and we bring our food back to the office. When you have multiple, different tasks in the day, there are switching costs – you always lose some efficiency if you have to switch between tasks. If I have five or 10 minutes between meetings I sit in an open area, to catch up on email but also to be available to whoever is walking by with something to mention. I knowingly create space for these moments, for quick water-cooler conversations, which are important.
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On board Premiere movies, hit TV shows and absorbing audiobooks
Rated M
162 ON BOARD ReillyNataliebyWords
There’sMoviessomething for everyone in this selection of new films.
Fellow doctors Alan Grant (Sam Neill, above with Pratt, Goldblum, Dern and Dallas Howard) and Henry Wu (BD Wong) come on the scene and tell us what we already know: this has turned very dark. Directed by Jurassic World screenwriter Colin Trevorrow, Dominion is an over-the-top, CGI-laden feast of action. It’s spiked with nostalgia for the first five films in the Jurassic series and leaves us longing for a time when the dinosaurs produced a sense of fearful wonder instead of deep regret.
The DirectedSurvivorbyBarryLevinson (Rain Man and Good Morning, Vietnam) and starring Ben Foster ( X-Men), this critically acclaimed drama is based on the real-life story of Harry Haft, a Jewish man captured by the Nazis during World War II, who had to box fellow prisoners to death in the Auschwitz concentration camp or be killed himself. Written by Justine Juel Gillmer and featuring Danny DeVito and Peter Sarsgaard (above, right, with Foster), it’s what Harry does after he escapes the camp that’s as harrowing as what he had to do before.
When a male sex worker rocks up to Gina’s home as a surprise gift, she’s initially dismissive. After all, Gina, played by Sally Phillips (above, second from right), is married. But her derision soon leads to an idea: as long as he’s here, why not have him clean the house? It’s the beginning of a business that aims to hit two birds with one stone: women with too much housework who feel invisible can start to enjoy their surroundings when a young man does the job for them. Written and directed by Renée Webster, it co-stars Erik Thomson (Packed to the Rafters).
Jurassic World: Dominion After numerous failed theme parks, escapes and casualties, the dinosaurs are now co-existing with human beings. But these dinos are a mischievous bunch, swooping here, hurtling there, causing untold damage with a mere whip of their tails. Meanwhile, a hoard of previously extinct locusts has popped up and are also wreaking havoc by devouring crops. What to do? Biosyn Genetics, a scientific corporation located in Italy’s Dolomite Mountains, is trying to find ways to solve the problem –by kidnapping a dinosaur and the adopted cloned daughter of dinosaur wrangler Owen Grady (Chris Pratt) and former park manager Claire Dearing (Bryce Dallas Howard). It’s obviously time for reinforcements. So everyone’s favourite silver-tongued cynic, Dr Ian Malcolm (Jeff Goldblum), steps up. Unfortunately, he now works for Biosyn. Not to worry, he’s onto the rampaging locusts, accompanied by Dr Ellie Sattler (Laura Dern), who has a hunch these insects aren’t what they appear to be.
Rated MA15+ How To Please a Woman
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Rated PG
Downton Abbey: A New Era As a television series, Downton Abbey delivered velvet-cushioned comfort devoid of any high stakes outside of the obvious: the Great War and the savage remarks of Lady Grantham (Maggie Smith). Perhaps sensing this, the show’s creators have gone a bit meta on this sequel to the 2019 movie by inventing a plot in which a movie is to be filmed on the grounds of Downton Estate, much to the disgust of Lord Grantham (and the delight of some of the servants). Lady Grantham, meanwhile, announces she has been given a villa in the South of France, which adds just the right amount of Gatsby-like glamour and a refreshingly sunny “Brady Bunch goes to Hawaii” tone to take the comfort level from sitting in a cinema with popcorn to lying in your day bed – with a flute of champagne.
Top Gun: Maverick Nostalgia is a big part of this ride. It’s been 36 years since Pete “Maverick” Mitchell (Tom Cruise, right) felt the need for speed and in that time a new generation has grown up with its own hunger for adrenaline-pumping flying feats. One of them is Maverick’s former co-pilot Goose’s son, Rooster (yes, really), played by Miles Teller, who blames our hero for his father’s death. This proves problematic because Rooster must now report to the veteran for what is an almost impossibly dangerous mission. Defiant as ever, Maverick has his old buddy, Iceman (Val Kilmer), to protect him from the top brass. But Admiral Simpson (Jon Hamm) feels the need for consequences. Can Maverick heal past hurts and save his own future? Hey, we could tell you but then you’d miss a high-octane adventure with breathtaking aerial stunts.
Rated M
there’s a show to match.
Long Slow Exhale
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The Time Traveler’s Wife First a best-selling book then a movie starring Rachel McAdams and Eric Bana, the story of a man who can disappear at a moment’s notice – a metaphor for emotional unavailability if ever there was one – is now a TV series with Theo James (Divergent series) as the time-travelling Henry and Rose Leslie (Game of Thrones, above with James) as Clare, his long-suffering wife. The couple first meet when Clare is a young girl and she’s told by adult Henry that they’ll eventually marry. But no matter which timeline you’re moving through, the course of love rarely runs smooth. Rated MA15+
The Baby When a 38-year-old woman is suddenly saddled with a baby and she can no longer come and go as she pleases, she begins to suspect the tiny human has strange super powers in this horrorcomedy series. Rated MA15+
61st Street An innocent man is embroiled in the corrupt Chicago justice system after he’s charged with the murder of a police officer during a drug bust. Stars Courtney B. Vance (Lovecraft Country) and Tosin Cole (below, right). Rated MA15+
Gentleman Jack Anne Lister, born in England in 1791, was a wealthy industrialist and prolific diarist dubbed the “first modern lesbian”. Filling her diaries with millions of words, some encoded to protect her exploits, this series shines a light on the bold woman known as Gentleman Jack (Suranne Jones, below, right). Rated MA15+
WhateverTelevisionyourmood,
The successful head coach of a university women’s basketball team (Rose Rollins) is in hot water after a scandal. Not only does she have to prove the truth, first she has to find out what the truth is before it affects her players, family and career. Rated M
Overwhelmed by the lightning-fast evolution of scientific and technological advances and want to make sense of it all? In this book, Australian biomedical engineer, inventor and futurist Jordan Nguyen takes us on a fascinating journey through high-tech innovations, including robotics, artificial intelligence and bionics, arguing that embracing this mind-blowing change can benefit our future rather than destroy our humanity.
STEP 3 Once you’re connected, you’re now ready to access the internet and the Qantas Entertainment App to watch hours of hit movies and TV shows and listen to audiobooks. Having trouble connecting? Make sure you’re connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start exploring. Inflight entertainment varies by route and aircraft. Voice calls are not permitted inflight.
TuneAudiobooksintothesecompelling stories.
STEP 1 Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings.
Allegra in Three Parts Young Allegra is surrounded by people who love her –grandmothers Joy and Matilde and father Rick – yet these same people don’t love each other. They all live in their own worlds, divided from each other by a tragedy that refuses to remain silently in the past. In her award-winning comingof-age debut novel set in 1970s Australia, writer Suzanne Daniel makes the conflicted Allegra the lens through which her splintered family is viewed. The Art of Growing Up In an increasingly complex world, how do parents nurture and guide their children into adulthood? Bringing everything he’s learnt from decades of working with and writing for young people, bestselling author and educator John Marsden presents his manifesto on parenting and childhood in the 21st century. He offers insights into a range of topics, from the role and importance of education to what he defines as a “problem parent” and a “problem child”.
Connect to Qantas Free Wi-Fi Entertainmentand App Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps to access the internet and Qantas Entertainment App (note: those on aircraft with seatback screens only need to access the internet to find in-flight entertainment options):
Human’s Guide to the Future
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STEP 2 Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect.
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EnjoyNewsunlimited access to theaustralian.com.au and afr.com when you’re connected to Qantas Wi-Fi onboard and in Qantas
02 Put both feet flat on the floor. Lift heels high, keeping the balls of the feet on the floor.
01 Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upwards as high as you can.
Knee to chest Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around the knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times. 03 Repeat these three stages in a continuous motion and at 30-second intervals.
Inflight workout
Fly Well Your wellbeing is our priority. Our Fly Well program brings together a number of measures to give you peace of mind during your flight.
In the air Mobile phones and electronic equipment: All transmitting electronic devices, including mobile phones, tablets and laptop computers, must be switched to flight mode* prior to departure. Smaller devices such as mobile phones, e-readers, electronic games, MP3 players, iPads and other small tablets may be held in your hands or stowed in a seat pocket. Unless otherwise directed by the captain, these devices may remain switched on and used in flight mode during take-off, cruise and landing. Larger electronic equipment such as laptop computers may only be used from when the aircraft seatbelt sign is extinguished after take-off until the top of descent. After landing, the cabin crew will advise when flight mode may be switched off.
Enhanced cleaning: Our aircraft are cleaned with a disinfectant effective against coronaviruses, with a focus on the high contact areas of seats, seatbelts, overhead lockers, air vents and toilets. Our people are trained in the latest hygiene protocols.
Inflight: The aircraft configuration, including the seats and galley, act as a natural barrier, and people are not seated face to face. The direction of inflight airflow is ceiling to floor.
Cabin air: Our aircraft air conditioning systems are fitted with hospital-grade HEPA filters, which remove 99.9% of all particles including viruses. The air inside the cabin is refreshed every few minutes, ensuring the highest possible air quality.
Knee lifts Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg. Forward flex With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.
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Face masks: Some destinations require you to wear a mask during your flight or at the airport. Ensure you check the latest government requirements before you travel. You’re required to wear a mask on all Australian domestic flights and international flights to Australia. This is an Australian State and Territory government requirement. Your face mask needs to cover your mouth and nose, fit securely and must be worn unless you’re under 12 years of age or have a medical exemption.
*Flight mode enables you to operate basic functions of your mobile phone or personal electronic device while its transmitting function is switched off, meaning you cannot make phone calls or send an SMS.
Foot pumps (foot motion is in three stages) to a handheld device can be used at any time from boarding until arrival. Headsets and other devices that connect via Bluetooth must be switched off for take-off and landing but can be used during cruise.
Ankle circles Lift feet. Draw a circle with toes, moving one foot clockwise and the ifseconds.directionRotateReverseatcounterclockwiseotherthesametime.circles.ineachfor15Repeatdesired.
These exercises are designed to provide a safe way to stretch and enjoy movement in certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting. They may be effective at increasing the body’s blood circulation and massaging the muscles.
We recommend you do these exercises for three or four minutes every hour and occasionally leave your seat to walk down the aisles. Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to other passengers. None of these exercises should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.
Headsets: Do not use a personal single-pin audio headset in the Qantas inflight entertainment system unless it is supported by a two-pin airline headset adaptor. Personal headsets that connect via a cable
Shoulder roll Hunch gentleandupwards,forwardsshouldersthenbackwardsdownwardsinacircularmotion.
Neck roll With relaxed,shouldersdropyour ear to your shoulder and gently roll your neck forward and back, holding each position for about five seconds. Repeat five times.
Transferring from Australian domestic flights numbered QF400 and above to international flights: At check-in you will be issued with your international boarding pass. Your international boarding pass and baggage will be tagged through to your final destination. There is no need to claim your baggage or attend check-in at the transfer airport. Follow the signs for international transfers passengers to the complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne and Darwin).
Qantas can arrange this but requires at least seven days’ notice before travelling. The rate of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent is also carefully maintained and does not usually cause discomfort. However, children and infants, and adults who have sinus or nasal congestion, may experience some discomfort because of pressure changes during climb and particularly descent. Those suffering from nasal or sinus congestion because of a cold or allergies may need to delay travel. The following advice may assist: To “clear” your ears, try swallowing, yawning or pinching your nose closed and gently blowing against it. These actions help open the Eustachian tubes, equalising pressure between the middle ear chamber and throat. If flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing help equalise pressure in an infant’s ears. Give children something to drink or chew during descent. Consider using medication such as nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages.
Smoking: Government regulations prohibit smoking on all flights operated by Australian-registered aircraft. The use and charging of all e-cigarettes and other personal vaporisers are not permitted on board an aircraft. There are smoke detectors in all toilets and penalties for regulation breaches.
Cabin pressurisation: During flight, aircraft cabin pressure is maintained to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. As the aircraft climbs, the cabin may reach the same air pressure as at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level. Cabin pressure does not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you suffer from obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experience discomfort at these altitudes. These passengers should seek medical advice before flying, as some may require supplementary oxygen.
Transferring to a Jetstar domestic flight: If your next flight is with Jetstar (JQ) or a Qantas codeshare flight operated by Jetstar (QF5400-QF5999), you will need to collect your baggage and follow the signs to the Jetstar counter to check in for your flight and re-check your baggage.
Motion sickness: Air travel, especially if turbulence is experienced, can cause motion sickness, as it leads to a conflict between the body’s sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Maintaining good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on a non-moving object) helps prevent motion sickness. When the weather is clear, you should look out at the ground, sea or horizon. If the horizon can’t be seen, closing your eyes and keeping your head movements to a minimum will help. While over-thecounter medications are available, we recommend you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications. More information can be found:
Cabin humidity and hydration: Humidity levels of less than 25 per cent are common in the cabin, as the outside air that supplies the cabin is very dry. The low humidity can cause drying of the surfaces of the nose, throat and eyes and it can irritate contact lenses. If normal fluid intake is maintained during the flight, dehydration will not occur. We recommend:Drinkwaterand juices frequently during the Drinkflightcoffee, tea and alcohol in moderation Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your eyes are irritated Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin
If you have concerns about your health and flying, or you feel that you may be at risk of DVT, Qantas recommends that you talk to your doctor before travelling. Additional measures such as well-fitted compression stockings or anti-clotting medication may be recommended for high-risk individuals.
Jet lag: Unlike other forms of transport, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, which can disrupt the body’s biological clock. This is commonly known as jet lag. This disruption can affect various body rhythms such as the sleepwake cycle and the digestive system, leading to symptoms such as tiredness and lack of energy and appetite. In general, the more time zones crossed, the more disruption of the body clock and the more symptoms experienced after the journey. We recommend the following to minimise the effects of jet lag. Before your flight: Get a good night’s rest During your flight: Eat light meals Wear loose, comfortable clothing and sleep when you can Stay hydrated – drink plenty of water and avoid excess tea, coffee and alcohol
Your inflight health: When flying, passengers can be seated and inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and the cabin pressure equivalent to an altitude of 2440 metres above sea level. The following advice helps you stay healthy during your journey.
Travelling with children: Please ask cabin crew for help if required. Baby food and nappies (diapers) are available on most flights, while some washrooms are fitted with baby change tables. Please dispose of nappies etc. in the waste bins.
Transferring from international to domestic flights numbered QF400 and above: On arrival at your Australian transfer port, go through Immigration and collect your luggage. Proceed through Customs and follow the signs to the domestic transfer area to re-check your luggage.
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A complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne, Adelaide and Darwin) departs at regular intervals for the domestic terminal for your connecting Qantas flight within Australia.
At your destination: If possible, give yourself a day or two after arrival to adjust to the new time zone Go out in the daylight and do some light exercise Try to eat meals and do other social activities at appropriate destination times to adjust to the new time zone
At OnThroughyourhealthinflightqantas.com.au/info/flying/intheair/theonboardentertainmentsystemourinformationleafletavailablefromQantasoryourtravelagent
When you land Leaving flights: On international flights, the cabin crew will distribute the necessary Customs and Immigration forms. If you are stopping en route, you will need your boarding pass to re-board the aircraft. If you’re travelling as a domestic passenger on an international flight within Australia, retain your boarding card with the large D sticker. This will be required to clear Customs at your destination.
There are a number of ways to help reduce the possibility of DVT, including the following: Avoid leg-crossing while seated Ensure adequate hydration Minimise alcohol and caffeine intake before and during your flight Wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothes During your flight, move your legs and feet for three to four minutes per hour while seated and move about the cabin occasionally Do the light exercises we recommend here (see above) and through the inflight entertainment system.
The importance of inflight blood circulation and muscle relaxation: When walking, the leg muscle action helps return venous blood to the heart. Sitting in the same position for a long period of time can slow this process and, in some people, leads to swelling in the feet. Some studies have shown that immobility associated with travel of longer than four hours (by air, car or rail) can also lead to an increased risk of deep vein thrombosis (DVT), or clotting in the legs. Personal factors that increase the risk of DVT include: Age over 40 years Personal or family history of DVT or pulmonary embolus Recent surgery or injury, especially to the lower limbs, pelvis or abdomen InheritedCancer or other blood disorders leading to clotting OestrogenPregnancytendencytherapy(oral contraceptive pill or hormone replacement therapy).
If your connecting domestic flight is numbered QF1-QF399, there is no need to clear Customs and Immigration. These flights depart from the international terminals. Customs and Immigration clearance will be completed at your final destination.
What you need to know about your onboard security, safety and health
All knives, sharp objects or cutting implements must be in checked baggage Security measures can include random frisk search after consent is obtained. Passengers may request privacy and must be searched by a screener of the same gender
UK ePassport gates: e-passport holders of UK, Switzerland and European Economic Area (EEA)
On all international flights to and from Australia: Each container of LAGs in your carry-on baggage must be 100ml or less All 100ml containers must be placed in a single transparent one-litre plastic bag Plastic bags containing LAGs are to be screened separately from other carry-on baggage All powders must be screened separately with restrictions on the carriage of inorganic powders over 350ml (350g) Passengers may still carry prescription medicines or baby products sufficient for the flight If departing, transiting or transferring on an international flight at an Australian international gateway airport, duty-free powders and LAGs must be sealed, with receipt, in a security tamper-evident bag issued at the time of purchase
QantasTraveldg@qantas.com.au.adviceisapartnerintheAustralian government’s Charter for Safe Travel. Travellers may obtain the latest travel advice for their destination by visiting smartraveller.gov.au.
The Australian federal government has introduced full-body scanners at international gateway airports: Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast
The Australian Federal Government has commenced introducing full-body scanners at major domestic airports: Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Canberra, Darwin, Gold Coast, Hobart, Launceston, Melbourne, Newcastle, Perth, Sunshine Coast, Sydney and Townsville
Please note that some automated clearance options may not be available due to COVID. Countries providing facilities across our network:
Restrictions on powders and liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGs)
Items that are forbidden on aircraft or have carriage restrictions include lithium batteries, other battery types, camping stoves, fuels, oils, compressed gases, aerosols, household cleaners, matches, lighters, paints, explosives (including flares, fireworks, sparklers and bonbons), emergency position-indicating radio beacons, radioactive material, biological and infectious substances and fuel-powered equipment. This list is not exhaustive so please carefully consider what items you pack for your next flight. If you’re unsure about an item in your baggage, ask a member of our friendly cabin crew. For further information, go to qantas.com or email
Immigration: citizens and foreign nationals with re-entry and special re-entry
USA Global Entry system: US citizens and permanent residents, Dutch citizens, South Korean citizens and Mexican nationals. Canadian citizens and residents with NEXUS membership
Hong Kong e-Channel Residents: citizens and residents of Hong Kong
Automated immigration Severalclearancecountries are introducing automated immigration clearance procedures to cope with growing air-travel numbers. The goal is to provide a faster, smoother immigration experience to eligible passengers without compromising border security.
holdersFeeappliesPre-enrolment required
As per advice, the energy exposure is comparable to that from a mobile phone several metres away There are no known safety concerns for people with pacemakers and metal implants or for pregnant women
USA Automated Passport Control: for US, Canadian and Visa Waiver Program passport
Full-body scanners
The Qantas Group has a strict policy of denying boarding, or offloading any passenger who makes inappropriate comments or behaves inappropriately inflight or on the ground. Qantas will not accept any inappropriate comments as “jokes”. It will also seek to recover all costs incurred, including diversions as a result of security incidents, from those involved.
Security advice Pack your own luggage Do not carry any items for another person Carry valuables, approved medication and keys in your carry-on baggage
Exemptions apply for people with serious medical conditions, infants and small children, and people in wheelchairs
Australia SmartGate: e-passport holders of Australia, Canada, China, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Korea, Macau, New Zealand, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, UK and US China e-Channel: citizens of China
NewpermitsZealand
Qantas security policy
Hong Kong e-Channel Visitors: frequent visitors that are visa-exempt, including Australians Indonesia Autogate passport gates: citizens of JapanIndonesiaSpeedy
At international gateway airports passengers refusing to pass through the scanner will be banned from entering the sterile area or boarding an aircraft for 24 hours
Important note: Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation.
UAEcardholderseGate:UAE citizens and residents
SmartGate Plus: e-passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, UK and US Singapore enhanced-Immigration Automated Clearance System (eIACS): citizens, permanent residents, work permit holders and APEC
Common items used every day may seem harmless but on an aircraft they may become dangerous. When the aircraft changes altitude, variations in temperature and pressure may cause items to leak, create fumes or catch fire.
Qantas security standards apply across the business, including QantasLink and Jetstar. A dedicated operations centre monitors global security events 24 hours a day.
Group-wide security Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation. The Qantas Group ensures that its passengers, staff and aircraft are safe and secure through an outcome-focused, risk-based approach to security management.
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Dangerous goods
Visit qantas.com/travelinsider @qantas @qftravelinsider@qftravelinsider Our hit list of incredible natural phenomena around the world Catch a frozen waterfall, walk along a wisteria-cloaked tunnel, witness migrating butterflies and bask in the midnight sun. How to view the Southern Lights in Australia The ultimate guide to watching one of the most spectacular lightshows without leaving the country. TRAVEL INSPIRATION 14 Australian islands you’ve (probably) never heard of These gems are off the beaten track but their pristine waters and abundant wildlife make them worth the effort to visit. Online now... Expert guides, new openings and dream destinations.
170 Cryptic clues Quick clues Crosswords and puzzles compiled by LOVATTS GAMES 1121417222531354042 226 31832 43036 27 15215 43 1113193441 336 72837 23 816243844 929 102039 © Lovatts Puzzles Across 1. Cranky mongrel (5) 4. Heard the sound of many elephants (4) 6. None left! Ok? (3,5) 12. Shot on doctor’s orders? (9) 13. Short account alleged to have gained praise (9) 14. Cuts out levies? (7) 15. Monk baffled by removal of cat from aircraft (5) 16. Lay it out for the country (5) 17. They should be able to smoke without too many problems (8) 19. Getting together for meeting (9) 22. Pompom girls shout encouragement to those in front (12) 23. Widely found to be vulgar (6) 25. Bandit exposes old-fashioned statute (6) 27. Prevent correspondence arriving from capitals (5,7) 31. They put one to the test (9) 33. ’60s dancers caught up in whirlwinds? (8) 35. Display rack of rotten flesh (5) 36. Feebly shrill and mostly greedy (5) 37. Thrilled when about 100 exited (7) 40. Happen to change tack (4,5) 41. Relate to partner (9) 42. Same buns, different kind of radiation (8) 43. Edna becomes faculty head (4) 44. Destroy part of Australian Nullarbor (5) Down 1. It doesn’t pay to translate “Merci” (5) 2. Goal undistorted by emotion (9) 3. What to pull up when improvement is expected (5) 4. Coiffure designed for Hitler, say (9) 5. Flee overflow (3-3) 7. Jaggedly cut frilly fabric with speed (8) 8. Become aware of hearing real lies (7) 9. Work out place to visit (9) 10. Partially veto daycare right now (5) 11. Redeeming feature was the rescuing of Miss Kelly (6,5) 17. No turning back in cycle of hurricane (7) 18. Confused man or woman (5) 20. Genes? Is that covered in book one? (7) 21. Teenagers wrecked cadet lesson (11) 24. Curses as horses start in on oats (5) 26. Swaps husband for carpenter, perhaps (9) 28. Depressing time of year when business is poor (3,6) 29. Looks over the Orient Express and suffers optical fatigue (9) 30. Part of their looming inheritance? (8) 32. Exaggerate blow-up (7) 34. Go into spin when Guy heartlessly picks up speed (6) 35. Insects no longer in groups (5) 38. Ms Chanel has a hot drink (5) 39. Live and do well, with nothing lacking (5) Across 1. Intersect (5) 4. Group of cattle (4) 6. Acceptable (3,5) 12. Inoculation (9) 13. Admired (9) 14. Surgically removes (7) 15. Robin Hood and ... Tuck (5) 16. Boot-shaped land (5) 17. Flues (8) 19. Amassing (9) 22. Team supporters (12) 23. Everyday (6) 25. Fugitive (6) 27. Upper case (5,7) 31. Inspectors (9) 33. Tornadoes (8) 35. Mantelpiece (5) 36. High-pitched and thin (5) 37. Aroused (7) 40. Take place (4,5) 41. Colleague (9) 42. Solar rays (8) 43. Actor/singer, ... Martin (4) 44. Declare void (5) Down 1. Felony (5) 2. Unbiased (9) 3. Shoes and ... (5) 4. Afro or beehive (9) 5. Scarper (3,3) 7. Tear jaggedly (8) 8. Come to understand (7) 9. Exercise club (9) 10. Here ..., gone tomorrow (5) 11. Compensatory virtue (6,5) 17. Violent tropical storm (7) 18. Marilyn Monroe’s former name, ... Jeane Baker (5) 20. Creation (7) 21. Youths (11) 24. Solemn vows (5) 26. Skilled worker (9) 28. Off-peak holiday time (3,6) 29. Reader’s complaint (9) 30. Old family treasure (8) 32. Fill with air (7) 34. Revolve on axis (6) 35. Religious cults (5) 38. Chocolate powder (5) 39. Reside (5)
171ToughSudokupuzzle,simple rules: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the numbers 1-9. EasyModerateHard More puzzles over the page; solutions on page 173 WDHBPACHEHIRR DOUELANCBEEEE WCCALOAANHNET RROOESLATULHT MUTIISFLADOSI MDPNCTEEDOTRB WHGATEIIKCIKA RDHEAIBFTHGIE RDCUSNIHBEEZE REAIIITBEANSY DHGOCEKEDOZEN RHTKPYSTLUSNI GNFTATASTICEL © Lovatts Puzzles 7645 31 53 73 852 89 53 61 7812 © Lovatts Puzzles 73 728 78591 892 789 75892 618 43 © Lovatts Puzzles 6543 8924 759 769 65324 769 531 5241 7983 © Lovatts Puzzles Match-ups –English Idioms How well do you know your English idioms? Complete the ones listed and find the missing words in the grid of letters. The letters left will spell out a trait that could be very useful. A PILL A DIME A A OF CAKE ADDACHILLES TO INJURY AT THE OF A HAT BEAT THE BUSH THE BULLET BREAK A BURN THE OIL THE FAT COSTS AND A LEGPOTATO FIT AS A HAVE A HIT THETHE BUCKET LET OUT OF THE BAG LET OFF PUSHINGTHEUPAS RAIN SHOOT THE SPILL THE STOP MY LEG TRIPTHROUGHANDTHINTHELIGHTUNDERTHENOT,WANT NOT Wheel of words Create as many words of four letters or more as you can using the given letters once only but always including the central letter. Don’t use proper nouns or plurals ending with “s”. See if you can find the nine-letter word using all letters. 17 Good 22 Very good 28+ Excellent NE UIRUT RF
20. Where are Australia’s Mawson, Davis and Casey research stations?
172 GAMES Spot the difference Can you spot the seven differences between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.
ByQuizHazel
09. “Be Afraid. Be very afraid” was the tagline for what 1986 Jeff Goldblum horror film?
14. Who is the only god to have the same name in classical Greek and Roman mythology?
15 Vegemite is concentrated what?
11 How many points is a conversion kick worth in rugby union?
08. Mocha coffee is named after a port in what country?
02. Which WA electorate is Australia’s largest and the world’s second-largest?
04. Which Steppenwolf song inspired the use of heavy metal as a music genre name?
05. And what 1969 counter-culture movie memorably featured that song?
10. What is the stage name of teenage chart-topper Charlton Howard?
Flynn
01. Which two world capitals are named for US presidents?
12 What company makes Excel software?
13. What colours feature on the flags of Austria, Bahrain and Indonesia?
17 Where in the body is the calcaneus bone?
03. What name for a soft cheese is shared by an elementary particle in physics?
07. What Star Wars character is played by Anthony Daniels, the only actor to appear in all nine Skywalker Saga movies?
16 The Family Madrigal and We Don’t Talk About Bruno are songs from what 2021 animated musical?
06. About how many wineries are there in Australia: a) 250, b) 2150, c) 21,500?
18 What Australian city is home to the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona)?
19 Bergen, Tromsø and Lofoten are cities in what country?
Wheel of words Fern, Fire, Fret, Rein, Rent, Rife, Rift, Rite, Ruin, Rune, Runt, Tern, Tier, Tire, True, Turf, Turn, Finer, Firer, Fruit, Inert, Infer, Inter, Inure, Nitre, Refit, Rerun, Rifer, Trier, Truer, Tuner, Future, Return, Turner, Untrue, Nurture. Nine-letter word: FURNITURE
173 Follow us Instagramon Get your daily dose of travel inspiration as we share the latest and greatest tips on where to go, things to do, what to eat and drink, and more. Match-upsCrosswordHardModerateEasySudoku GAMES qftravelinsider (Parrtjima)WatsonDoddsLachlan IfSolutionsyou’vefilledintheanswers, please take the magazine with you so the cabin crew know to replace it with a new copy. WDHBPACHEHIRR DOUELANCBEEEE WCALCOAANHNET RROOESLATULHT MUTIISFLADOSI MDPNCTEEDOTRB WHGATEIIKCIKA RDHEAIBFTHGIE RDCUSNIHBEEZE REAIIITBEANSY DHGOCEKEDOZEN RHTKPYSTLUSNI GNFTATASTICEL © Lovatts Puzzles MONEECSTSLCYCEIRC ROUHXUHHXN MNASEDARTEVITCEJBO MMEBLLEIES MNETALFIARONSKCOS WNBALEET MOOLRIEHELYTSRIAH RUSEBASOE RDONSTECSELAFFONU RDDOED RRETAYGECAGGNIVAS KSATSAACA WONSAESOLETARECAL OXIECHLL ROOOACCSHTAESILAE MNIITTRTII MMRNIATSEYEUISANYG RRUTEONLEH WELLDSISENEGYADOT © Lovatts Puzzles 768943251 762318549 715249638 783492165 792651843 765143829 765914382 782356914 789412356 713842695 769253841 764859132 756123984 789241563 783946152 753489216 769213458 768215439 © Lovatts Puzzles 769543128 723198645 768245931 769481352 785632419 768923154 723586194 789142356 765419283 © Lovatts Puzzles Quiz 01. Monrovia (Liberia) and Washington, DC (USA) 02. Durack 03. Quark 04. Born to be Wild 05. Easy Rider 06. 2150 07. C-3PO 08. Yemen 09. The Fly 10. The Kid Laroi 11. Two 12. Microsoft 13. Red and white 14. Apollo 15. Yeast extract 16. Encanto 17. The heel 18. Hobart 19. Norway 20. Antarctica A bitter pill, A dime a dozen, A piece of cake, Achilles heel, Add insult to injury, At the drop of a hat, Beat around the bush, Bite the bullet, Break a leg, Burn the midnight oil, Chew the fat, Costs an arm and a leg, Couch potato, Fit as a fiddle, Have a blast, Hit the road, Kick the bucket, Let the cat out of the bag, Let off the hook, Pushing up daisies, Right as rain, Shoot the breeze, Spill the beans, Stop pulling my leg, Through thick and thin, Trip the light fantastic, Under the weather, Waste not, want not. Solution: Eyes in the back of your head. Spot the difference 01. Extra oar in boat at mid-left. 02. Bowl duplicated, near centre. 03. One fruit changed from green to orange. 04. Hat pattern changed (bottom centre). 05. Shirt changed from green to red. 06. Headpiece changed from red to blue. 07. Extra row of spring onions at right.
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