Megan Green- Christian Francis Roth Brand audit

BRAND AUDIT BRAND AUDIT CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

Megan Green 26007092

BRAND AUDIT CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

BRAND HERITAGE Christian Francis Roth is an American 90's surrealist designer who first started his career in New York back in 1988 as an apprentice and later employee of Koss Van den Akker, where he then later designed his first collection in Van den Akker studios. 90's fashion was well known for grunge, colourful and bold styles which is something Christian Francis Roth was influenced by during this era. During the year of 1990, Roth showcased his first full collection, which then lead to him being heralded by Women's Wear Daily as Seventh Avenue's latest boy wonder (WWD, 10th April 1990).

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At the age of 21, Roth was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America Perry Ellis award for emerging talent, giving him recognition surprisingly early. In an interview, Holy Burback (New Yorker, 29 January 1990) said about Roth: "These clothes would look first-rate in Paris or Milan or Timbuktu. It is already too late to call him promising. There is, in his clothes, nothing more to wait for".

BRAND AUDIT CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

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BRAND AUDIT CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

Brand Heritage Moodboard Profiling

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BRAND PHILOSOPHY Surrealism is an artistic element which Roth uses throughout his collections and signature pieces.

Christian Francis Roth is mainly influenced by artistic flares but also creating elements which are extravagant but suit the brand DNA and the surrealism trends, which is part of the brands core values. At his prime time during the 90’s, Roth stood for collections which were extravagant but also stuck the brand DNA of wearable fashion.

In the marketplace, Roth brought out collections which were both artistically influenced and also Ready-To-Wear collections to keep a mix of collections for the consumers.

Some of his most famous collections were a spring 1990 cartoon collection which used pop-art derived concepts i nfluenced by consumer culture which features daffy squiggles.

In addition to this, a suit with buttons looking as though they are spilling out of M&M candy bags linked to the artistic flare he wanted to achieve.

Christian Francis Roth's "Rothola" crayon outfits were one of the most famous designs he created in 1990, influenced by children's crayons linking back to the artistic element.

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1990 Cartoon collection.

Archive image from Christian Francis Roth.

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INITIAL PRODUCT OFFER This then lead Roth onto designing bridge clothes for young women and teens, usually more than half the price of his previous collections. In addition to this, Roth also studied menswear in 1992, expanding on his knowledge and experimenting with new designs to see what path he really enjoyed.

In 1993, Christian Francis Roth launched his Spring Ready to wear collection, featured in vogue. The initial collection was simplistic yet still had touches of the brand DNA. Stripes and bold red colours were mainly featured in the collection keeping it simple, but elements of sophistication were shown in each individual outfit linking back to Roths unique design.

Similar, Roth also had a couture business which he closed in 1995 in favour of lower-priced clothing. In a Las Vegas Review-Journal, Roth admitted "I just didn't think it was worth doing anymore" and also explained that the high-end couture collections were not a prime money maker, "Not that money has ever been my motivation to do what I do, but there comes a time when you make a career on what has been successful craft for you".

"Not that money has ever been my motivation to do what I do, but there comes a time when you make a career on what has been successful craft for you".

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BRAND AUDIT CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

“fashion is colour.”

Christian Francis Roth

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“Rothola” Collection by Christian Francis Roth: 1990

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INTERNAL AUDIT

Christian Francis Roth 1990 Collection.

Photographed by: Nathaniel Kramer Featured in an article by: Martha Baker

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C ONSUMERS Christian Francis Roth closed his couture business in 1995 due to the failure of it not selling as well as he hoped. Realising that it was not his main money maker at that time and decided to stick to low priced collections which suited a younger female target audience. During the re-launch, low priced quality clothing is something which will be taken into consideration as this seems to be a prime opportunity and suited his consumers more. As the consumer target age will be 25+, we aim to suit their shopping habits such as online and also a consumer friendly shop which aspects which will make their experience much easier and comfortable.

Clothing is the biggest teen spending trap in the 21st Century, Online shopping is one of the main ways a consumer will now shop as it can be in the comfort of their own home, without the hassle of having to try the clothes on and the face to face interaction with a shop assistant. The average teens spend nearly $1,100 annually on clothes according to Piper Jaffray's fall 2014 'Talking stock with teens' report. Previously mentioned, Online shopping is a main factor which will be featured in the re-launch of Roth in 2020, this aspect will help to suit a consumers shopping habits but will also make it easier for consumers around the globe to buy the clothing online.

Reports from Piper Jaffray’s spending survey, they found that 79% of females and 76% of males shop online rather than shopping in a store. The website for the launch would be made with the target consumer in mind such as the layout, text and also the images chosen for the clothing to make it aesthetically pleasing for them to view.

“79% of females and 76% of males shop online rather than shopping in a store.”

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BRAND AUDIT CHRISTIAN FRANCIS ROTH

Roth’s previous consumers were around a similar age range of 25+ for both his couture collections and his Ready-To-Wear collections. However, his consumer would have had a much higher disposable income due to the pricing of his collections, which was also a main factor in why his brand failed at the time. The market he was aiming to penetrate was not in favour of high priced, extravagant clothing which meant that his brand was never as successful as he hoped it would’ve been.

During the launch, the failure of the consumer group previously will be taken into consideration to help revive the brand. In addition to this, his consumers would also have been from New York as his collections never branched out globally, which is also a factor which caused the failure of the brand as new consumers wouldn’t have been reached. Having stores, a website and also plenty of advertisements will all help the revive to become more successful and also reach consumers around the globe to make the brand more well-known globally.

Consumer Profiling Moodboard

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BRAND BRANDAUDIT AUDIT CHRISTIAN CHRISTIANFRANCIS FRANCISROTH ROTH

COMPETITORS Elsa Schiaparelli is the world first surrealist fashion designer. Setting herself apart from other fashion designers, she incorporated surrealism in her collections by collaborating with avant-garde artists such as Salvador Dali and poet Jean Cocteau. Mastering the genre of wearable art, Schiaparelli shocked the world by designing collections featuring astrology, tattoos, paganism and surrealist art according to Lone Wold Magazine (O.Roche. 2016).

However, Schiaparelli may not be as much as a rivalry during 2020 due to the price difference of both designers, but the overall look of the collections will make her a rivalry as Roth will need to make sure the collections don’t clash design wise.

Both Roth and Schiaparelli used surrealism in their collections which is why they were both competitive rivalry's back in Roths prime time. During the re-launch for Christian Francis Roth, outlandish garments will be taken into consideration, as these catch the eyes of his previous consumers. Schiaparelli released a Spring 2017couture collection which is a huge competitive step for Roth as her current collection will be taken into consideration to make sure they don’t clash.

Elsa Schiaparelli . 1940’s ‘Hand’ Bra.

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Another competitor for Christian Francis Roth is Comme des Garcons, a Japanese fashion label based in Tokyo. Success for Comme des Garcons took off during the 1970's when a menswear line was added in 1978 and their first debut show in Paris was in 1981. In 2009, Comme des Garcons experimented in the world of surrealism at Rei Kawakubo's fall 2009 Comme des Garcons show.

Both Comme des Garcons and Christian Francis Roth use surrealist movements which are often referred to as trompe l'oeil, which means "to deceive the eye". Comme des Garcons referred to this movements when a model's face was obscured but a pair of lips was floated off the side of the material used as shown in the Elle articled in 2013 about ‘Out-of-this-world fashion moments inspired by Surrealism’, and Christian Francis Roth referred to this in his dress-form dress and his wool jersey dress with illusionistic inset collar, cuffs and belt as mentioned in the Encyclopaedia of Fashion article about Roth’s career.

Rei Kawakubo’s fall 2009 Comme des Garcons show.

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SUPPLIERS/ SUPPLY-CHAIN LOGISTICS

Suppliers are the main connection between the business and the manufacturing segments. These suppliers help to provide raw material for the manufacturers but also distributing the finished good to the buyers. They need to have a good relationship with its buyers in order to get a good price on the material and also the quality of the products.

stable supplier on his hands. Creating a strong relationship with a supplier will help the business to success during the re-launch as the brand is dependent on suppliers.

In addition to this, the quality of the products received from the supplier is also dependent on the relationship with the brand, if the product is good quality it means Christian Francis Roth had trouble with consumers will be more eager to keep his supplier Gold Palace Corp as they did buying products from the brand. not support him and decided to cut their business leaving him with no supplier of Competitiveness from other brands raw material. This would affect his is also a reason a brand needs a good business around this time as his relationship with their supplier, they availability to supply products to his can help a brand take over a competitor consumers would be stopped and with their pricing, quality and reliability collections would develop slowly until he which is crucial for the 2020 launch. found a new supplier.

Choosing a supplier who has a previous history of being loyal to their buyers would be an advantage point for Roth as he knows that he would always have a 16

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AVAILABILITY OF

R AW M ATERIAL Buying good quality raw material is something which all business intends to achieve, making sure they get the right amount of good quality for the right price is an important factor is the development of manufacturing. However, once you have bought your material you will then need to have this supplied to the manufacturing department in order to create the garments which means that buying from a country where the trading laws aren't as harsh is a huge factor too.

However, according to the US trade representative in the Reuters magazine (2010), states that they are seeking to remove China's export duties of 5 percent to 20 percent on certain materials. This is due to the fact that business impose higher costs on US manufacturers, while Chinese competitors would not have to pay them which is why companies locate their production in China. Choosing the right country to supply raw material from is a factor in which will need to be taken into consideration for the 2020 launch.

According to the Business of Fashion (N. Pierrepont. 2014.) brands are investing in ‘New Generation of Materials’ which will enhance the style, performance and sustainability of their products which is a factor to consider when supplying new materials, making sure they are sustainable and also environmentally friendly.

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Christian Francis Roth ‘Hobo’ Dress from the Fall Collection in 1991. Image from Archive by Roth.

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D ISTRIBUTORS/ D ISTRIBUTION C HANNELS Christian Francis Roth had trouble with his Financial backer, the Hong Kong and Shenzhea and also, china garment manufacturer Gold Palace Corp who decided not to support Roth and cut their business, meaning Roth would desperately need to find a new distributor to keep his sales and business going. Distributors are the main reason any organisations are able to deliver products to all consumers, so they rely highly on their distributors for assistance.

Distribution channels is an organised network of agencies and organisations which all link together to help perform the distribution between manufacture and consumer. During the re-launch, Roth will need to find a reliable distributor either within New York as this is close to the area wanting to re-launch in or in China as they were previously somewhere Roth supplied from.

According to a Deloitte article about ‘doing business in China’, China’s exports are up by 20% since October 2013 and has remined the sevenths biggest export market at that time.

However, China may not be a prime location for distribution in 2020 due to the sustainability of the country. According to the Guardian (2015) China announced a lower economic growth target and a reduced dependence on energy intensive manufacturing for exports.

Sustainability is china is a complex problem as there are many reports on the country’s deteriorating environment from air pollution to dull factories, making china not a prime country to supply from.

“China’s exports are up by 20% since October 2013”

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STAKEHOLDER/ PARTNER R ELATIONSHIP During the 1990's, Roth decided to close his couture business in favour of lowerpriced clothing, this was due to the fact that it wasn’t making him enough money and "wasn't worth doing anymore".

As his consumers were a prime stakeholder in his business, the fact that they weren't buying into his couture collection caused Roth financial problems meaning his couture collection wasn't something he could afford to keep going. Aiming for lower-priced clothing meant Roth would not be able to keep his business going and keep on bringing out new collections.

Keeping his collections relevant to the consumer will mean that his collections shouldn't fail and will always suit the consumers needs.

Christian Francis Roth cropped down jacket and skirt, Fall 1994 collection.

Photo by Eric D. Weiss

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PORTERS FIVE FORCES THREAT O F SUBSITUTE During the re-launch, Roth will use social media and the internet as a main way to attract consumers as this will make it much easier for them to view his collection.

Launching this in New York will help the consumer market in the social media aspect as this is a huge social hub.

Online shopping is the current craze with the younger consumer target market, it's an easier and quicker way for them to shop without having the hassle of going into a shop and trying everything on.

However, Christian Francis Roth never had an online website for people to view his collections which is a huge downfall in his marketing strategy. This also means that new substitutes which are available online for the younger consumer target market which have a higher advantage point over Roth, as they can easily view and buy these pieces, leaving Roth with a lower advantage point within the market.

However, launching Roth into china would not be a success if using social media as the main platform, this is due to the fact they have many restrictions over their internet use, such as the ban of Instagram and Facebook.

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THREAT O F N EW ENTRANTS The United States is well known for the fashion industry as both New York and Los Angeles are two of the largest Fashion hubs in the US, as over two-thirds of fashion designers are employed in these cities. This means that the threat of new entry is considerably high and finding ways to popularise their products is also a threat due to the fact they will need to keep it relevant and appropriate for the consumer market.

New entrants which have similar products to Roth will always be a threat, by keeping on top of social media accounts and new consumer trends will keep Roth and the re-launch current within the market, which was a downfall of Roth beforehand. Collaborating with another designer or artist will help to keep the launch original and different from the competitors.

An example of a collaboration using social me dia was Gucci using #GucciGram put a modern spin on Eastern Art according to I-D (E, Manning 2016). Last October, Gucci decided to invite emerging collagists, painters and photographers to put their unique spin on iconic prints. “#GucciGram is a starting point to tell different stories, which are all united by a great freedom” as quoted by the brands creative director Alessandro Michele, “Todays creativity is often born and finds its voice in digital media, a vital source of visual culture”.

This collaboration shows how using art and fashion can prove to be a huge success but also introducing social media to grab the attention or current millennials.

POWER OF CONSUMER B UYER Existing customers of Christian Francis Roth are one of the main ways to retain the brand, they know the quality of the products and have previously bought into the brand so will know what they are buying back into. However, due to the fact Roth hasn't released a successful collection in a while means that the old consumers may not buy back into the brand as it hasn’t stayed relevant in their buying habits.

Targeting new consumers will be a successful way of helping the brand as it means that promoting the brand in a complete different way, such as a collaboration or using a social media platform will help to attract new consumers but also bring back the old consumers of the brand as it will be a complete different look to the brand.

However, trying to attract new consumers to Keeping the brand DNA within the launch will the brand will be a huge issue as the correct use help to bring back the old consumer market as of social media and advertisements will need to they will know the branding well and will know be used to attract new millennials. exactly what the brand stands for and what they are buying into.

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P OWER O F S UPPLIERS Many fashion retail industry's source their products from third world manufacturers who get a small fraction of the profit. In a study on future global competitiveness, it 'predicts that the US will dislodge china as the most competitive manufacturing nation in the world in 2020' (A. Selko. 2015. Industry Week).

Although emerging markets will continue to push forward in manufacturing the United States, Germany and Japan all hold the top positions in the 21st century and in the future.

Choosing the right supplier is critical for Christian Francis Roth in the 2020 launch, meaning that his previous supplier in China may not be as successful during 2020 due to global competitiveness, he may have to look for one in the United States, as this may be more reliable for his business. Having a supplier who is global may have an impact on the business, due to trade laws changing over the years but also the economical state of the country supplied from. Making sure his supplier and distributors are not in the EU will also be important during a launch as they have restricted trading laws and are much harder to trade to as they are in the European Union.

RIVALRY A MONGST E XISTING COMPETITION In 2020, the competitive rivalry will have increased due to social media and digital advertising. Making it harder to stand out against rivalry's, designers must now market their collections in a way which will attract the current consumers on social media, but also need to market their collections digitally to stay on top of the game in 2020.

Re-launching Christian Francis Roth means digital marketing will need to be used as a priority in 2020, due to the increase of users on the internet. This was a disadvantage for Roth beforehand, as social media was not as successful as it is now, so advertising his new collections was mainly down to billboards or interviews in magazines. Websites, social media accounts and also Virtual Reality will all be aspects of technology which will help increase the popularity of Christian Francis Roth to stand out from the rivals.

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ANSOFFS MATRIX MARKET PENETRATION

Aiming to extend Roth's current market with his current products may not be as successful now as it was during the 90's. If Roth was to penetrate the market now he would probably need to open a wide variety of stores in order to get his existing products back into the market. Using other retailer and third parties would help Roth with his sales as consumers are currently typically drawn to a department store rather than an independent store. In addition to this, if Roth aimed to penetrate the market in several ways such as his own independent stores, online retailers and retail department stores then his market share would increase and the growth in his market penetration may give his existing products more recognition.

PRODUCT D EVELOPMENT

Delivering modified products to the current market, such as collaborations for more developed products are a successful way of breaking into the market. However, modifying a product can have a higher risk due to the fact that it may not sell successfully if it's not relevant to the consumer markets. However, for product development to be successful, Roth would need to research into the changing consumer markets such as what they want and responding to changing consumer needs.

Keeping these new and improved products would still need to suit the consumer's needs but will also need to suit the current market. Collaborating Christian Francis Roth with an artist will link back to his artistic elements in his brand DNA, keeping it relevant. This is also product development in two forms, such as his brand and also the collaborator. The unique selling point of the brand is the collaboration with an artist as this will bring new elements to the marketing strategies but also suit the current market.

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BRAND BRANDAUDIT AUDIT CHRISTIAN CHRISTIANFRANCIS FRANCISROTH ROTH

MARKET DEVELOPMENT Market development for Roth could work in many ways to get his existing products into new markets. Expanding on new geographical markets would help to extend the brand recognition but researching into emerging markets could be a draw back. Some of the exiting products may not be successful in some of the emerging markets and the consumer base there due to the type of product.

However, market development could also be finding a new customer base through new distribution channels such as e-commerce may help Roth to find a new consumer base due to the fact he previously didn't use e-commerce as a distribution channel.

D IVERSIFICATION Diversification is one of the riskiest ways of penetrating a market due to the fact there is no previous experience of the product or the market which means it's at a higher risk of failing. Not knowing the market well enough will have a draw back on new products in the new market. Roth would need to take this into consideration for the new launch in 2020, making sure they the previous consumer market or previous products are still relevant in the launch otherwise the risk of failing would be extremely high.

“Hobo Suit� by Christian Francis Roth. Fall 1991 Collection.

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“Rothola” Outfit by Christian Francis Roth, Fall 1990 collection. Image from New York Woman Magazine.

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Embroidered and appliqued Mosaic Jacket by Christian Francis Roth. Fall 1990 collection.

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Modern Art inspired dress by Christian Francis Roth. Pieced, colour blocked cotton. From the New York Times Magazine. January 28th, 1991.

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BRAND POSITIONING Roth's previous consumer base bought into his products due to the fact they were unique and considered the brand DNA in every aspect. Whenever Roth released a new collection it involved surrealism or artistic flares and was always something different which kept the consumers interested. This is something which the previous consumer base for Roth valued in the brand. In addition to this, Roth as a designer constantly experiments with new products such as womenswear, menswear, couture and even a younger consumer based product, this helped him to extend his consumer base and develop his products to suit every possible consumer.

During the re-launch, the current consumer market and brand DNA is something which will stay the same. Making sure the current consumer base buys back into the products but also extending the consumer base slightly to penetrate the market.

Christian Francis Roth and model wearing his Crayon Dress. Elle Magazine, September 1990.

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In the future, the brand community will highly value the ease of being able to access Roth's collections, through websites or interactive elements in the store, which will put Roth at a higher advantage point within the current market as elements of new technology will keep consumers interested.

In 2020, technology will have advanced massively, so the use of social media and websites will be crucial for Roth in order to succeed and meet the consumer's needs.

The conceptual place the brand will want to achieve in order to attract the consumer would be to make technology more relevant and the main focus point to interact with the consumers.

Technology advances all the time, so making sure technology is relevant to the launch will help to keep the consumer base interested in the products but will also see how the brand is developing over time and keeping relevant to the consumer markets. The current and previous consumer market of 25+ will value the use of technology in 2020 as this keeps the brand relevant to the changing markets.

Fittings from the Christian Francis Roth Fall 1994 Collection.

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VISUAL I DENTITY SYSTEMATIC AND N ECESSARY ELEMENTS

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F IGURE O F THE BRANDS C REATOR During the 90'a Christian Francis Roth was well known for his imaginative and extravagant garments where his personality was shown throughout. Being a creative witty designer helped him to create surrealist designs which were a huge success for him during the 90's. Using his artistic flare Roth was able to get recognition for his brand early and create a statement. Roth's bold and creative personality is shown throughout the brand DNA. This is an element which will be carried on during the 2020 launch to keep the brand DNA relevant and keep the current consumer marker interested.

T YPOGRAPHIC L OGO Christian Francis Roth never had his own brand logo during his prime time. This is an opportunity for the 2020 launch as a brand logo can be created which will help give the brand more recognition. In addition to this, the logo would also need to be created with the collaboration in mind, so making sure that both logos work together and are easily recognisable. This logo would be used on the campaign launch images, website and any other marketing strategies which would be used. Also, by having this logo on each individual clothing such as on the labels will help to make the clothing recognisable to that brand.

V ISUAL M OTIF

Similarly, Roth didn't have a visual motif on any of his ready-to-wear or couture collections. This is also another aspect which is an opportunity for the 2020 launch. This repeated motif would help to make a signature design which will become to be recognised for that brand.

B RAND C OLOUR The 2020 launch is also an opportunity to create a brand colour for Roth which will suit the possible collaboration. As Roth is a creative and colourful brand this will help to signify a particular colour with the brand as it will suit the brand personality and also suit the imagination of the brand designer. All of Roth’s Collections have bright and bold colours which are part of the brand DNA. However, choosing one particular colour for the logo or typographic elements which help to make the brand recognisable.

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C ULT O F D ETAIL The main use of detail which Roth previously used was the patterns and designs on each of his collections. As his collections contained bold and extravagant clothing his main use of detail was the patterns and designs which communicated to the consumers that the brand use of imaginative skills is shown throughout each collection. This will also be a, aspect taken into the 2020 launch, showing the imagination from the previous collections in the current new launch.

THINGS THAT A RE T YPICAL O F T HE B RAND Surrealism is a constant signature style which is used in some of Roth's collections previously.

Artistic elements are also constantly used throughout the brand personality and essence. This is something which will be carried on into the 2020 launch as this signature style is something which should be well known for the brand.

Spring 1992 “Cocktail� Dress by Christian Francis Roth. Silk blend with hand appliqued and inset border detail.

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BRAND BRANDAUDIT AUDIT CHRISTIAN CHRISTIANFRANCIS FRANCISROTH ROTH

BRAND

PERSONALITY Extravagant, experimental and imaginative are all words which are easily associated with Roth's brand personality. Constant experimentation and innovative designs were the reason Roth's brand truly took off in the 90' which is something which needs to be followed during the 2020 launch. Christian Francis Roth had a creative personality which is what helped the brand to succeed and helped him to create his designs, building his brand around his own personality is something which helped Roth within his career.

Crayon and Mosaic inspired looks from Christian Francis Roth Fall 1990 collection.

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B RAND E SSENCE Creativity and originality is shown throughout the brand DNA and the products created by Roth during the 90's. His brand essence of artistic flares is something which is the brands unique selling point and maintains the values of the target consumer, similarly they also knew what Roth represented in the 90's due to his recognised brand essence. The heart of the brand was to constantly create new innovative designs which suit the consumers growing needs which is why Roth later started a ready-to-wear collection as this is something which he believed the consumers would want from the brand and would help get him more recognition.

Michele Quan and Christian Francis Roth, Vogue, January 1991.

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PRODUCT O FFER

The main product offer of the brand was couture and ready-to-wear clothing which both were successful for the brand back in the 90's. However, his couture business slowly went into a downfall and wasn’t making him as much money as it first was, which lead him to closing this business as he said it wasn't worth carrying on anymore. His lower prices collections were more successful for his brand and his current consumer market which is something which will be carried on in the 2020 launch. Possibly looking in both apparel and footwear would suit the 2020 consumer target market the brand is hoping to achieve.

Strapless Matchbook dress by Christian Francis Roth.

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PACKAGING Packaging was never something Roth looked into with his collections, which is a huge opportunity for the 2020 launch. As the online website is one of the main ways of selling the products to the consumers, packaging is a huge factor which will help to make the brand succeed and draw in the consumers. Having the packaging as colourful linking to the artistic elements will help to create a true brand identity for the consumers and help to make the brand more recognisable.

Fall 1991 Amish Quilt inspired looks by Christian Francis Roth.

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Fittings from Fall 1994 Collection.

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MARKETING MIX P RODUCT During the 1990's, Roth closed his couture collection due to it not being a prime money maker at the time, which lead him to starting a lower-priced collection. In 2020, a Ready-To-Wear collection will be launched aimed at the target audience of young females aged 25-35+. Using an artistic element will be the main aspect of the products due to the collaboration with possibly Jean Michel Basquiat, this will help to keep the collection appropriate to the target consumer audience and interested but also stick to the consumer market location of New York. Artistic elements are seen throughout the location of New York such as graffiti and famous artists which is a reason Jean Michel Basquiat is a possible collaborator. Streetwear is an up-coming fashion trend which is popular currently in 2017 but will rise massively in 2020 due to the popularity of the trend.

According to the Business of Fashion, the streetwear brand supreme is becoming a huge success within the 21st Century as they received an award but have 'never been touted for an award' before showing exactly how streetwear is an upcoming fashion trend which will become more and more popular over Graffiti Dress, Spring 2009. the years.

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PRICE Sticking to a low price for the launch in 2020 will be relevant to Roth's previous collections where he closed his couture collection in favour of lower-priced items. As previously mentioned, his higher prices couture collection wasn't bringing him in enough money and wasn't selling as well as he first hoped. This shows that having his collections as a higher priced will not suit the consumer needs as this previously wasn't successful. In addition to this, the consumer market is 25-35+ which means they have a slightly lower income then someone 40+, so lower priced clothing will be more relevant.

PROMOTION Previously, Christian Francis Roth didn’t use many marketing strategies in order to promote his collections which would have been a disadvantage for his marketing side. Advertisements or articles in magazines was the main way Roth would promote his brand and new collections at that time, meaning the publicity of his brand would not be as successful. Launching in 2020 gives a much higher advantage on the marketing side due to huge emerging platforms such as social media, TV ads and billboards. Social media is a main platform which will be used within the launch as in 2020, social media will be highly popular, and technology would advance massively. Allowing consumers to shop online will increase their shopping habits as they will find it much easier to shop without the hassle of going into a shop. In addition to this, technology within the shops launched in New York will also be used. Virtual Reality will allow the consumer to view the clothing on themselves and other models. The hassle of trying on clothes in a cramped, dark changing room is not the ideal situation and puts most consumers off shopping, Virtual reality will give them the freedom to view the clothes on themselves much more easily. Billboards are a more traditional way of advertising to the public on a much larger scale. Due to the fact Roth will be collaborating with Jean Michael Basquiat will mean that billboard advertisements are more relevant as he previously tried to get recognition by graffitiing on the street.

PLACE

New York will be the main basis for the 2020 launch due to the fact this is the place where Christian Francis Roth was born and originally started his collection. In addition to this, New York will be an emerging market in 2020 as previously mentioned from a study on future global competitiveness, as it 'predicts that the US will dislodge china as the most competitive manufacturing nation in the world in 2020' (A. Selko. 2015. Industry Week). Both Jean Micheal Basquiat and Christian Francis Roth were born in New York and at their peak career during the 90's.

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Tuxedo inspired dress by Christian Francis Roth. Spring 1992 collection in Womens Wear Daily, November 6th, 1991.

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EXTERNAL AUDIT

1989 Interview Magazine profile of Christian Francis Roth.

Photo by Josef Astor.

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PESTEL FACTORS POLITICAL FACTOR Brexit sent shock waves across the country due to the fact that any trading to and from other countries would now be even harder. Christian Francis Roth is situated from New York which is where his brand both started and ended. During the re-launch Brexit would be a main factor in the trading aspect as it would make it harder to trade his collections into the UK. The United States is the largest single investor in Britain, which means that Brexit would make it much harder for companies and firms to trade into the UK which before they considered as a gateway to free trade with the 28 nations that make up the E.U. During the relaunch, the trading laws would be something that needs to be seriously considered to help the growth of the brand from the US into the UK.

In addition to this, Paris is also a country where the launch has its advantages and disadvantages. Paris is also well known for its graffiti and artists around the city which is a positive factor for the launch meaning the consumers may be more interested in the collection and collaboration. However, it is much harder to trade with countries within the EU, than out of the EU, so if the US try to trade with Paris there are many restrictions which will affect the business. This means that trading with any country within the EU will have huge effects on the business side.

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ECONOMICAL FACTOR A Recession would be an Economical Factor which would affect the relaunch of Christian Francis Roth. A recession is when the economy declines significantly for at least six months which also includes retail sales. One of the main reasons which may affect the recession is household disposable income for the consumer, credit, population and demographic behaviour.

This would be a factor in which the relaunch would have to take into consideration to make sure that the prices of the clothing aren’t extremely high for their considered target audience. They also need to take into consideration the countries they would be selling in.

New York would be the main area of sales as this is the home of Christian Francis Roth and the main place he would promote his new relaunch. However, if Roth looked into selling in the UK, the economical state of the pound has caused issues for the country. The pound has dropped meaning businesses have to pay more for the goods they buy in, which will mean they may have to increase the price of the clothing if they supplied material from the UK, meaning the product price will be considerably higher which doesn’t suit the current consumer market.

SOCIAL FACTOR

Buying Habits are a social factor which will be taken into consideration during the relaunch.

Buying Habits refer to the type of consumers who typically go back to the same brand over and over again as they know the type of quality and know that it is exactly what they like. This would affect the relaunch of Christian Francis Roth as during the relaunch, it will need to be considered that people may be at first put off buying into a brand that are not familiar with.

This means that researching into what previous consumers liked about the brand and what made the brand something people wanted to invest their money into.

Buying Habits also link to online shopping as many consumers find this this a much easier way of shopping and will also be success for Roth during his launch due to his consumer target audience. According to World Atlas Online (A. Pariona 2017) over 70% of adults in the United Kingdon, Japan and Germany spend the most money on online shopping sites meaning some of the countries may be easier to promote online in their country though social media and the internet, to increase the popularity of the brand.

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TECHNOLOGY FACTOR The World Wide Web is now something that is used as part of everyday life but is also expanding in the fashion market due to brands now selling online to make it easier for the consumers. Christian Francis Roth currently doesn't have an online shop for his consumers to view his clothing but also buy his clothing from. This would make his growth of sales much harder as the only way of purchasing his clothing would be in a store. During the relaunch, creating a website would be something to consider as this would massively help the growth of the brand, the recognition of the brand but also the sales of the brand. Technology growth is something that is happening in every country but mainly China. China is well known for the technology boost and how far advanced they are than any other country.

However, China has many restrictions on their social media and what they can see.

Facebook, Twitter and Instagram are all blocked in China due to the governments restrictions. This would make advertising much harder for the consumer target audience who mainly use social media as a factor of their social life. Although Chinese are well known for their expensive taste in Fashion, they would not be a prime location to re-launch Christian Francis Roth due to the amount of restrictions. Virtual Reality is also something to consider within the launch as this will enhance a consumer shopping experience.

Within the store consumers would be able to view the clothing on themselves and other models through virtual reality headsets. This makes it easier for consumers who find changing rooms within a store uncomfortable.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTOR Trading is a factor which can affect the environment due to the greenhouse gases which may be released during trade.

Multiple ways of transportation during trade make it much easier for greenhouse gases to be released into the climate and also make it a less environmentally friendly way of trading. This would be a factor that needs to be considered to help make trading safer for the environment by using transportation that doesn't give off greenhouse gases and it a lot safer for the environment.

Many factors leading into this would need to be researched thoroughly. However, recycling the packaging for the products will be something to consider for an economical factor.

Americans recycle 34% of all waste they create according to Planet Aid online(2015), but there is even more waste being produced then ever as Americans generate 254 millions tons of trash in 2013. Making sure all packaging can be easily recycled to help protect the current environmental state will also be considered.

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L EGAL FACTOR Competitive regulations is a Legal factor which would need to be considered during the relaunch. This is the competitive rivalry of other brands during the same time of the launch, this would make it harder for the brand to stand out if another company is doing something similar or is making a mark on the market at the time. This means that during the relaunch, other brands which are similar due to the type of collections they produce, the way they advertise these but also the style in which their brand would all be a factor taken into consideration to make sure there is no similar competition.

Model wearing a Crayon-inspired coat from Christian Francis Roth’s Fall 1990 Collection.

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“Scribble Suit” by Christian Francis Roth, 1989.

Design was inspired bt the Warner Brother’s cartoon “Duck Amuck”.

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C OMPETITOR A NALYSIS During the 90's there were many designers who incorporated either surrealism or artist movements within their collections. Designers such as Thierry Mugler who in 1997 created an extravagant dress which touched upon the surrealist movements. In his spring 1997 haute couture collection, Mugler experimented with the surrealist movement of insect: making a gown look as though it has a set of wings coming from the back. In addition to this, Alexander McQueen also touched upon animalistic elements within his spring 1997 collection. Dressing women in feathers and shells, birds and butterflies he experimented massively with the form of surrealism on the runway by manipulating women's bodies.

Thierry Mugler, 1997. Haute Couture Collection.

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As previously mentioned, Comme des Garcons is a huge competitor for Roth in the current market. Even though they previously looked as surrealism movements within their fall 2009 Rei Kawakubos show, Comme des Garcons collaborate with many other brands to create extravagant designs. PLAY is one of their most famous collections, breaking them into the streetwear segment by creating simple yet statement pieces but also collaborating with Converse to create statement streetwear pieces.

Within the 2020 launch, any streetwear brand is a hug competitor for Roth as the current consumer market which will be targeted buy into these streetwear pieces. Dover Street Market is a store within London where the PLAY collection and other Comme des Garcons pieces are available. The store layout is bold and suits the brand DNA making the consumer experience more appropriate to the brand.

Comme Des Garcons, Rei Kawakuboa show 2009.

Image from ELLE Magazine.

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CONSUMER A NALYSIS When Roth closed his Couture business back in the 90's in favour of lower-priced clothing his consumer market slightly changed to young women and teens.

Creating products such as sweaters, skirts, pants and shirts sold in department stores meant Roth consumer market was different to what he usually aspired for.

During the launch in 2020, aiming for a similar consumer market will be something to consider to stick to the brand DNA. The considered target audience is both males and females 2535+, living in New York with a low/mid disposable income. All of this links to what Roth previously wanted to achieve within his collections, so following this will help to stick to the brand essence and DNA.

The education/ occupation of the consumer could be anything from a student in an art/ fashion degree who have a keen interest in artistic elements, but could also be a successful business partner who is interested in art. Streetwear is a fashion statement in which the consumer may be interested in, brands such as Supreme, Palace and CDG, these would link to the similar style in which Roth will be trying to achieve in the launch.

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Jean Michel Basquiat was a high demanding artist back in his prime era, and even now his artwork is selling for millions, so consumers with a high disposable income may be more interested in the collaboration side of the collection. The possible family structure of the consumer could be anything from a student living at home or away for education reason or a married adult with children in a stable financial situation. Lifestyle of the consumer can differentiate massively from a downtown suburb area, in an apartment block, into their art and possibly streetwear fashion. But could also have the lifestyle of living in a luxury home, with a high disposable income, able toafford expensive artwork or a seller of artwork.

Consumer may be well educated on politics such as Trump, LGBT and Brexit.

Online and offline shopping habits work for both types of consumers, as they can view the clothing easily from the ease of their home, but may also want to shop instore making the marketing strategy work for both types of consumers. Their main reasons for buying the collection may be that they are into art work: the collaboration between Roth and Basquiat. However, some buyers may buy for the fact that Basquiat elements are within the collection, meaning it may be a rare opportunity for them to buy into something that won't happen as often due to the death of the artist.

“Pencil Shavings� outfit, Fall 1990.

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BRITISH M ARKET If Roth was to launch into the British market, there would be many factors in which he would have to consider such as consumer buying habits, the economical state of the country and whether the consumers would be interested in the style of the brand. A positive point of launching into the British consumer market would be that the age range of 25+ are really into the streetwear style aspect. According to the Business Of Fashion (C. Morency, 2017) “millennials are recently loving the streetwear era but also luxury brands such as “Gucci and Louis Vuitton are partnering with influential streetwear sites”.

London is also well known for its streetwear stores such as Supreme, Palace and even Dover Street Market having brands such as Comme DES Garcons and Palace. However, a disadvantage of launching to the British consumers is the fact that Brexit is still up in the air: the pound has dropped. This means that the pound is not worth as much as it used to, meaning it would affect income and also changing currency for shoppers who may come to London from other parts of the world.

A SIA’S M ARKET The Japan and Chinese market is also a good market in which Roth could launch into due to the fact the consumer market may also be interested in the streetwear factor. According to the Business Of Fashion (Williams. 2017., “Yoho! , China’s one of most influential streetwear platforms for the countries powerful Post- 90’s generation.” This shows how streetwear in emerging markets is also up-coming and the consumer market would also be interested in the 2020 launch.

However, Social Media in china has many restrictions due to the government, meaning certain platforms are restricted. This would make it a lot harder to advertise in China using Social Media due to the amount of restrictions.

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Asia’s Emerging Market Moodboard Profiling.

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SWOT A NALYSIS STRENGTHS Roth is pretty familiar with Ready-To-Wear collections which is a strength for the 2020 launch. The Product type would also be similar the lower-priced collection he released which is Ready-To-Wear which also keeps the brand DNA similar for 2020 and the 90's. Streetwear is also a trend area in which Roth's launch would possibly want to penetrate. The growth of streetwear is getting bigger every year, seeing more and more brands trying to penetrate this market.

E-commerce would also be a strength for the launch within 2020 as this would help to promote his collections on a much wider scale to countries where shops won't be, allowing consumers around the globe to purchase into his collections. Product types such as apparel and footwear all suit the consumer market which would be possible during the 2020 launch, helping to make the growth of products wider and more relatable for the consumers.

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WEAKNESSES A weakness for the 2020 launch will be at Roth may not be a recognised designer as he was during the 90's, so new consumer markets may not want to buy into this brand. Making sure the launch targets previous consumers and new consumers will help to keep the brand current within the market but may be a struggle to keep the consumers interested within the brand. Another weakness may be alleged plagiarism for the collaboration between Roth and Basquiat. According to the Business of fashion 2017, plagiarism has more pressure upon creative directors as they wont want to fall into the trap of people thinking they are copying. Basquiat has previously collaborated with Supreme back in 2013, who is another streetwear brand. To avoid plagiarism, Roth will need to make sure that none of the designs clash with Supremes' which is a weakness in the design process.

OPPORTUNITIES When Roth was in his prime success back in the 90's, he didn’t have any digital platforms in order to promote his current and upcoming collections. This is a huge opportunity for the 2020 launch as according to the Business of Fashion 2017, the fashion industry is becoming more proficient with digital platforms. E-commerce will constantly rise over the upcoming years from 3% in 2010 to 12% in 2020. This is a platform in which should be used within the launch for Roth as the current consider market will be more involved with digital platforms and social media.

THREATS However, a threat of using e-commerce within 2020 is that the brand may not get the recognition it needs. Every fashion brand or retailer will be using digital platforms in order to promote their brands which means that staggering upon brand will happen all the time, so some brands may not get the recognition it needs. Making sure that the brand stays on stop of the digital platforms within 2020 will help to keep the brand new in upcoming markets and will also keep the consumers interested.

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B RAND

C HALLENGES Some of the main challenges that the brand may face is:

Paris, Milan, New York, London and Tokyo have all been major influencers in the Fashion Industry over the past years. However, in new emerging markets cities are wanting to bring a new ‘look’ to the global fashion map and use a comprehensive approach to identify emerging fashion hubs and markets. However, a major brand challenge for the 2020 launch is that emerging markets such as South Africa, India, Asia and Russia will not be as interested within the type of launch. This is due to the fact the streetwear aspect is not a statement within these markets so the consumers will not buy into this launch. In addition to this, cities such as New York and London, even though the consumers are into streetwear fashion, they may not want to buy into the type of products in the launch if its not current to their buying habits and current trends within the market.

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The economical state of some countries where the launch could possibly situate in may suddenly change such as Brexit was a sudden shock for the EU. Launching into the UK would be an issue due to Brexit and the pound dropping meaning it is worth less than before, this would make trading a lot harder due to money, but also the consumers who travel to this country to shop would be affected due to the currency. Keeping on top of all political and economical state will help to make sure the brand doesn’t face any barriers such as sudden trade laws or supplying material which may be costly.

Marketing the brand correctly for the current consumer market but also keeping the brand DNA is also a risk as it may not attract the consumer market aiming for. The use of social media is also a main aspect which will be used within the launch as technology in 2020 will be far more advanced for consumers. This means that using Social media apps, advertisements on social media, billboards and TV ads will help to keep the consumers up to date with the launch.

Choosing the right country to supply raw material from is a factor in which will need to be taken into consideration for the 2020 launch.

This may be a challenge in which the launch will face as different countries have different trading laws which will make it much harder to supply raw material. According to weforum.org (T. Geiger 2014), Singapore is the top country to currently trade from due to its ‘outstanding performance across the board’ and ‘Singapore established the world’s first national single window to trade in 1989’. Germany is 10th trading country in the world due to its excellent transport infrastructure and logistics. Choosing the right country to trade from is crucial in the 2020 launch.

“Crayon” and “Tulip” dresses. From the Fall 1990 Collection.

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RECOMMENDATIONS Re-launching the brand in 2020 gives many opportunities to extend on the brands DNA but also extend of elements which haven't been tested before within the branding and marketing. Reasons on why the brand previously failed were mainly due to the pricing and the collections he was producing. These elements will help to revive the brand in 2020 with new elements to suit the current millennials and the target consumer market. Using a collaborator for the 2020 launch will help to launch the brand in a new and exciting way which the brand hasn’t tried before.

Christian Francis Roth was in his prime elements during the 80's and the 90's in New York City. Around the same era was artist Jean Michel Basquiat who was also from New York City and created well known graffiti around the city such as 'SAMO' and then later found his fame through exhibiting his street art movements in galleries and museums. Within the re-launch, the collaboration between Roth and Basquiat may help to bring more recognition towards the brand and also link due to the artistic flare both of them have. The use of collaboration is a successful way to develop a brand such as the #GucciGram which used social media as a way to launch a new style of collaboration.

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Jean- Michel Basquiat Moodboard

In addition to this, tattooing is a form of art which has become a much stable form or body modification which helped the idea of collaborating Roth with Basquiat. Graffiti artists are becoming much more well known within the past few years due to countries making it legal and artists are able to express their views and opinions though this form of art. Graffiti is also a well-known art trend in the suburb area of New York City which is where the intended target audience for the launch will be from making it more relevant to the consumers

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The intended consumer target market of young adults 25+ which suit the launch of the brand well. These current millennials are well educated with social media and new, upcoming technology which will help the brand in the 2020 launch as social media will be a main aspect of the launch.

The consumers will also be interested in streetwear and Ready-To-Wear collections which is an aspect which will be used within the launch.

During the re-launch, low priced quality clothing is something which will be taken into consideration as this seems to be a prime opportunity and suited his consumers more. It also links back to the failure of the brand previously when his couture collection didn’t sell as well because the pricing was too high, and it just wasn’t worth carrying on. He then launched a Ready-To-Wear collection which proved to be successful and took a step up in his career, which is why the pricing in the 2020 launch will be similar to suit the current market and the consumers.

Also in the re-launch, Roth will use social media and the internet as a main way to attract consumers as this will make it much easier for them to view his collection. In 2020 technology will be well advanced meaning social media is a major part of the launch for the consumer base it will be penetrating. Platforms such as Instagram and YouTube are the main ways of promoting a brand though advertisements where branding videos can be shown, but also on platforms such as Facebook and Twitter where a billboard type of campaign can be shown to advertise the launch.

Technology will also be used within the stores for the launch such as Virtual Reality to help make the overall experience of the store more exciting for the consumer: being able to see the clothing on themselves without having to get dressed in a small, cramped changing room. Roth will also have a website which will help to reach out to different countries where stores won’t be located, choosing the right aesthetic and appearance of the website will need to be chosen carefully for both the consumers and the countries it will be broadcasting in.

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Target Cosnumer Moodboard Profiling

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REFERENCES R. Martin. 2017. Christian Francis Roth- Fashion Designer Encyclopaedia. http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Pi-Ro/Roth-Christian-Francis.html T. Hawkins. October 27, 1989. FASHION: The ones to watch. http://articles.latimes.com/198910-27/news/vw-783_1_fashion-show R. Lake, December 15, 2014. 23 Teenager Consumer Spending Satistics That Will Shock You. https://www.creditdonkey.com/teenage-consumer-spending-statistic.html M. Holgate. January 23, 2017. Spring 2017Couture. Schiaparelli. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-couture/schiaparelli O. La Roche. 2016. Remembering Elsa Schiaparelli: A Look at the World First Surrealist Fashion Designer. https://lonewolfmag.com/elsa-schiaparelli-surrealist-fashion-designer/ J. Hirshalg, August 19, 2013. Trend Alert, 20 Out-of-This-World Fashion Moments Inspired

By Surrealism. http://www.elle.com/fashion/g8486/fashion-moments-inspired-by-surrealism/?slide=1

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P. Baines, C. Fill, K. Page. 2013. 'Essentials of Marketing'. Oxford University Press. (Page 239) A.Selko. December 09, 2015. Top 10 Manufacturing Countries in 2020. http://www.industryweek. com/competitiveness/top-10-manufacturing-countries-2020 Unknown. Where is Christian Francis Roth? http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/whereis-christian-francis-roth/ G.Cook. October 23, 2017. Supreme, Rihanna Among Nominees for the British Fashion Council's 2017 Fashion Awards. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/supreme-rihannaamong-nominees-for-the-british-fashion-councils-2017-fashion-awards S. Lenon. December 17, 2015. Talking with Gucci's Favorite Female Artist: @UnskilledWorker https://www.wmagazine.com/story/talking-with-guccis-favorite-female-artist-unskilledworker D.Boddy. 2014. Sixth Edition, Pearsons. Management an Introduction.

Williams. September 13, 2017. Inside Yoho! China’s Streetwear Empire. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-currents/yoho-chinas-streetwear-culture-empire C. Morency. June 5, 2017. How Luxury Came To Love Streetwear Sites. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/how-luxury-came-to-love-streetwear-sites-hypebeast-highsnobiety BBC Iplayer. Basquiat- Rage to Riches. https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/search?q=basquait

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Megan Green 26007092.

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