Megan Green- Case Study by Megan Green

HOW ARE GENERATION Z CHALLENGING THE NORMS OF IDENTITY?

MEGAN GREEN 26007092

HOW ARE GENERATION Z CHALLENGING THE NORMS OF IDENTITY? MEGAN AMY GREEN 07.05.19 A case study submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for BA (Hons) Fashion Management & Communication

Sheffield Hallam University

Sheffield Institute of Arts

SHU Logo

SELF- EXPRESSION /ˌsɛlfɪkˈsprɛʃ(ə)n/ NOUN

FIG 1.

THE EXPRESSION OF ONE’S FEELINGS, THOUGHTS, OR IDEAS, ESPECIALLY IN WRITING, ART, MUSIC OR DANCE .

IDENTITY #1

ABSTRACT

TEETH MAGAZINE ‘HELL ON HIGH’ 11.09.16 Photographer / Stylist: Edie Chow Hair: Yoshiki Kirino Makeup: Chichi Saito @ Art adept for MAC Cosmetics Model: Jessica Timczyk @ IMG New York

This case study intends to address gender neutrality, self-expression, body ideals and challenging the norms of identity in today’s society. Generation Z are exposed to a society filled with body ideals, but through the use of social media and other general media are pushing these set boundaries with the term ‘self-expression’. This case study aims to look into how the macro trend of ‘identity’ is changing with Generation Z and hopes to break down the perceptions of body ideals which sets a potentially unattainable goal to younger generations. Primary research such as exhibitions, questionnaires’ and surveys will be used in order to gain further knowledge into the term ‘identity’, while published journals, books and handouts from exhibitions will be used as secondary research. Generation Z, Identity, Ideals, the comparison trap, and social media will be the main sub-category’s this case study intends to delve into.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

This case study is dedicated to the memory of my Grandad, Malcolm Bower. Nothing in life prepares us for losing someone you love, but I am grateful for everything youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done for me. You are the best Grandad I couldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve asked for and your memory will forever be in my heart. In loving memory of Malcolm Bower. 1944 - 2018

‘FRAGMENTS OF WHAT ONCE WAS’ 18.03.19 Photography: Kim Jae Min Styling: Seunghee Son Hair: Shin Dong Hwan Makeup: Tae-young Kim Model: Lee Chae Ryung

‘OUT OF YOUR GAZE, ESCAPE’ 10.01.19 Photographer: Emma Anderson Stylist: Shabdice Esfahani Grooming: Daniel Duran Model: Trenton Parrott

“Nothing is more attractive to me than accepting and being comfortable in the vulnerability of your own skin. You shouldn’t have to feel that you’re hiding behind a mask.” (ID Magazine)

FIG 2.

PREFACE TEETH MAGAZINE ‘DISILLUSION’ 11.03.19

IDENTITY #2

Photographer: Noah Sahady Stylist: Emma Larsen Beauty: Ciara Maccaro Model: Ganna Bogdan at Photogenics LA Set Design: Cheyna Carr Assistants: Basil Vargas and Jeffrey Robbins

Social media plays a huge factor in Generation Z’s lifestyles as they are constantly exposed to other people’s morals, lifestyles, cultures and views. As this case study will later uncover, there is a lot more to life than a filtered social media profile, where the user gets to choose what to post, as a single day can have a wild roller-coaster ride of emotions. Social media may dominate Generation Z’s life but as a generation they are beginning to acknowledge those feelings surrounding self- expression and identity. Generation Z are born into an era of self-expression and body positivity, as the exploration of this project will seek to reflect how a brand could market this ever-growing trend of ‘Identity’ from a brands perspective. Using the macro trend of ‘Limitless’, which has been curated from the research shown in this case study, on how to move this generation away from the online ‘toxic mirror’ whilst moving forward with themes of selfacceptance and individuality. Both males and females are exposed to potential unattainable body ideals stemmed from social media, as there needs to be a large emphasis on more open discussions involving all genders and expressing sexualities to make Generation Z feel inclusive. Social media can be perceived as the main catalyst for these topics surrounding body ideals which needs to be faced showing how Generation Z are beginning to embrace gender neutrality and self-expression which was not always accepted in previous generations due to body standards.

FIG 3.

The term â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Identityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is the main theme for this case study and will delve into how there are false body ideals for both men and women which creates an unattainable body goal and may affect Generation Z in expressing their identities freely. In early adolescence, Generation Z are present in a society filled with appearance pressures, exposure to toxic online content, image standards and a variety of platforms which increase their image consumption on social media which may also contribute to unattainable body ideals.

FIG 4.

Asking the question of ‘What is identity?’, this case study will delve into how Generation Z see the term self-expression and how they are beginning to push the normality of body ideals into their own expressive identity. A macro trend is a “major shifts in consumer behaviour” (LSN Global) as the term identity falls into this category, as brands within today’s society are beginning to push their consumers into finding their own identity. Monki is a retailer who take pride in encouraging self- expression with their consumers through all their online content. “We’re a tight-knit tribe of fashion lovers who believe in dressing how we want and loving who we want – while empowering each other (and ourselves) “ (Monki, 2018). This case study will identify if the macro trend of ‘Limitless’, created to target Generation Z, can determine whether there is a scope into a marketing campaign challenging these body norms, pushing sexuality and expression through the use of online content. Pushing away from the online ‘toxic mirror’ the case study will aim to move forward with progressive themes of acceptance and the macro trend of identity. Exploring how the campaign can help Generation Z to embrace their many sides of their personal identity and drive them to feel more confident in who they are by incorporating how self- expression has developed over generations due to the ever-growing use of social media.

THE PROBLEM: IDEALS TEETH MAGAZINE ‘IF IT TAKES ME ALL NIGHT’ 29.01.18

IDENTITY #3

Photographer: Keiichiro Nakajima Stylist: Michelle Carroll Hair: Takuya Tamaguchi using R+Co Makeup: Toru Sakanishi at Joe Management Casting Director: Nicholas Forbes Watson Model: Anabel K. at Next

IDEAL /ʌɪˈdɪəl,ʌɪˈdiːəl/ ADJECTIVE

EXISTING ONLY IN THE IMAGINATION; DESIRABLE OR PERFECT BUT NOT LIKELY TO BECOME A REALITY. “IN AN IDEAL WORLD, WE MIGHT HAVE MADE A DIFFERENT DECISION” SYNONYMS: UNATTAINABLE, UNACHIEVABLE, IMPRACTICABLE, UNWORKABLE, UNFEASBILE”

DAZED DIGITAL 18.09.16 Backstage at Versus Versace SS17 Photography: Philip Trengove

Generation Z are almost convinced that what they publish on social media platforms are a true representation of themselves and who they are in real life, when in reality most of them only show what they want people to see. Research on twitter suggests Generation Z pick and choose what they want to post on social media as they aim to impress other users on these addictive platforms, “Unpopular opinion: social media has ruined our generations ability to be truly happy. We’re always seeing someone else who we think has it better than us and comparing ourselves and sometimes it makes us think that what we have isn’t good enough” (Twitter, 2019). Potential unattainable body ideals are stemmed from social media as the pressures to keep up a set appearance can be seen as though it is constantly pushed down Generation Z’s throats from the image consumption that they face every day. Simply unlocking their phones will showcase a wide variety of online content which can have its effects on people’s appearances. UK’s Royal Society for Public Health conducted a survey in 2017 which shows the effects of social media on the British youth. Signs of depression, anxiety, lack of sleep, body image worries and ‘FOMO’ (fear of missing out) were all signs linked with social media platforms, which shows their damaging dark effects on both males and females as the chief executive of RSPH said “Social media has been described as more addictive then cigarettes and alcohol and is now so entrenched in the lives of young people that is no longer possible to ignore it when talking about young people’s mental health issues” (RSPH 2017). Although social media can be portrayed as an addictive trap for the youth of today, the way Generation Z use social media can benefit them in day-today life. According to the BBC, social media can benefit mental health as “Emotions expressed online affect your mood” (Sharma, V. 2018). Opening new pathways to connect with other communities online offers Generation Z a much-needed support platform for them to share their thoughts without revealing their identity.

‘BRUISING IN THE SUN’ 20.12.18 Photographer: Mateusz Grzelak Stylist: Marysia Duda Hair: Olga Sulipa Model: Antek at AS Management Warsaw

THE COMPARISON TRAP Comparison is, by definition: “a consideration or estimate of the similarities or dissimilarities between two things or people.”

The comparison trap: endlessly scrolling through social media can potentially lead to Gen Z to compare their lives against someone else’s who in fact don’t necessarily live the life they promote online. As quoted in the book ‘Why Social Media is ruining your life’ the author states “Comparing ourselves to idealised versions of each other is, scroll by scroll, overexposing us to upward social comparison, which has a massive knock-on impact on body image, self-esteem, expectations and life satisfaction” (Ormerod K. 2018). This type of negativity consumed from social content can have a semi-permanent effect on Generation Z, making them feel uncomfortable and not confident enough to express their true identity as they feel obliged to compare their life against someone else’s online. “Vogue recently ran a feature called ‘9 models you haven’t heard of (yet) but will want to look like’. There is a neverending parade of rosy-cheeked youth thrust into the spotlight in order to make women feel humiliated and inferior, acknowledging that is important for your sanity” (Brandes, B. 2015). Social media is a platform every Gen Z’er grew up with. Although it can be portrayed and used as a negative platform, it can also be a way of expressing and encouraging self- confidence amongst peers. Although research shows there are signs of social media causing ‘damaging dark effects’ (RSPH 2017) on the youth of today, it is also used as a platform to connect and interact with peers they would never normally meet.

“Born into a post-internet world, Generation Z are high-speed, mobile and digitally adept. Connected from our homes and our handsets, we’re the next generation, poised to change the world! If Generation Y were defined by a “me, me, me” attitude — think...” (Abraham. A. 2015) 21

‘A FIELD TRIP FOR THE BIRDS’ 07.03.19 Photographer: Ajuan Song Stylist: Shaly Guo Hair: Tomoaki Sato Makeup: Mitch Yoshida Models: Chen Xi at Muse NYC and Jun Kai Qi at Soul Artist Management Set Assistant: Larissa Nowak

DOPAMINE /ˈdəʊpəmiːn/Submit NOUN

A COMPOUND PRESENT IN THE BODY AS A NEUROTRANSMITTER AND A PRECURSOR OF OTHER SUBSTANCES INCLUDING ADRENALINE

BEHANCE ‘NEW RAVE’ 01.10.16

Photographer: Gianfranco Briceño Stylist & Beauty: Dindi Hojah Models: Julia Gaumgartner, Vitor Soratto, Matheus Plentz, Rodrigo Smarieri, Garibaldi & Agnnie Retouch: Nicolas Leite

Dopamine is one of 20 major neurotransmitters according to The Guardian (Parkin. S 2018), which are a fleet of chemicals that carry urgent messages between neurons, nerves and other cells within your body, but how does this link to social media? According to Sean Parker who was the founding president of Facebook commented whenever someone gets a like or comment on a post “we… give you a little dopamine hit” (Parkin, S. 2015). This reinforces the idea of why Generation Z appear to be so obsessed with social media and post ‘instagrammable’ content for their feeds on platforms such as Instagram, Facebook, YouTube and Snapchat. However, this dopamine effect can also bring a negative force with it, Generation Z feel the need to have instant gratification from peers online without having to step into the real world, they have the freedom to post anything they like to their ‘followers’ but feel the need to keep up this persona they are pursuing online. Some online influencers do post genuine content from their real life, but this may sometimes give false hope to younger generations who cannot pursue this type of lifestyle. Research suggests it’s not only females who feel the pressure of body ideals stemmed from social media. Masculinity is an unwritten rulebook filled with things men shouldn’t be doing to preserve their fragile identities, but why is the term ‘male beauty’ suddenly changing? Jaden Smith is at the main forefront of pushing male masculinity (Vogue 2016), as he expresses a binary breaking dress sense and his appearance is so news-worthy any small detail he does which breaks the term ‘masculinity’ is posted all over social media. But still, we may be approaching a time where society is accepting of men embracing their identities as there has been a stigma around male ‘beauty’ in the past. Men are expressing their confidence and challenging masculinity more by embracing gender roles and sexualities. Surges of brands are beginning to break these boundaries by creating genderless clothing and even trending #MakeupIsGenderless. H&M released a collaboration with footwear brand Eytys at the beginning of 2019 to create a unisex shoe and clothing collection. The collaboration wanted to give shoes a new life and also approach the ethos created in the digital age, giving the freedom of all genders to wear and buy into their collection (H&M 2019). There is also a large emphasis on transgender beauty within the fashion industry as identity continues to be fluid as brands begin to collaborate with the LGBTQ+ community to create products that empowers non-binary and transgender consumers. The language of male beauty has shifted and is no longer a taboo subject. Platforms such as Instagram and YouTube continue to connect Generation Z and Millennials from around the world creating a huge potential market for innovation as the aesthetic for genderless fashion and beauty becomes normalised as brands begin to blur the lines between feminine and masculine.

As quoted at the beginning of this chapter, the definition of the word ‘ideal’ justifies Generation Z’s subconscious minds as a whole, “existing only in the imagination” (Cambridge Dictionary). Technology could be the main factor which contributes to this perception as they are a generation who grew up with iPhones. The reality of delving deep into other people’s lifestyles is all they have known, which may cause appearance pressures for some Generation Z’ers. Another reason could be that as a generation they feel afraid that if they express themselves, they may be judged or not accepted, which has been a factor which has affected previous generations, as when they begin to express their identities, they feel they may be judged and frowned upon. “There are 7.5 billion people walking this earth today. That’s 7.5 billion sets of eyes, 7.5 billion noses, mouths, hair textures, skin tones. 7.5 billion stories. 7.5 billion imperfect people wanting nothing more than acceptance and the freedom to be as they are and express themselves” (Davies, E. 2017). Influencers are a major part of social media as they constantly share their platforms with their followers, expressing their personal style, views and opinions. Generation Z see influencers as the eyes and ears of social media, as they follow or buy into products they promote, working in collaboration with brands. Using these platforms as a way to connect with the younger generations allows brands to be fashion- forward knowing what products they are willing to buy into. Generation Z are constantly exposed and invested in the lifestyles of social media influencers, giving them the pressure to keep up a set lifestyle and appearance to keep in touch with their following platform. However, this creates an unsettling pressure for them to connect with all their followers on a personal level, being inclusive to all genders and race in order to connect with Generation Z and not draw themselves into an online ‘scandal’.

BODY POSITIVITY #1

@DARTH_BADOR INSTAGRAM

‘THE WARMTH OF YOU’ 10.05.18 Photographer: Valerie Yuwen Hsieh Stylist: Yiota Dendrinou Hair: Chihiro Yamada Makeup: Mena Pyne Models: Jude Gralak at Models1 and Theo George at Select Model Management

Many people from all generations have their own opinions on body ideals and how they think people should act or be in their own day to day life. A survey was conducted in order to gain a variety of primary research regarding social media and ideals, with the aim of addressing gender neutrality, self- expression, body ideals and social media, to gain an in-depth understanding of how social media can affect different generations. When asked ‘How does social media make you feel?’ the responses were mixed with respondents stating, ‘Powerless over Privacy’ and that it is ‘addictive’. However, other respondents said they felt ‘connected’ and ‘engaged’ with family and friends. One of the more in-depth responses was “I love using social media as a way to see other people’s lifestyles/ social feed ect, but sometimes I feel like I can’t be myself on social media or express my own thoughts as I may get judged”. This response was from a female respondent who was born into the Gen Z society, she also expressed that social media changed the way she looked at herself and believed all genders are exposed to unattainable body goals set from social media. In the survey curated, 80% of respondents said that they think all genders are exposed to unattainable body goals set from social media but only 30% said that social media has changed the way they look at themselves. Generation X and Baby Boomers are seen as generations which have set opinions on ideals and image standards as they grew up in a generation where looking a certain way was the norm and everyone followed these set trends. This is backed up by the survey conducted as a respondent who is part of the Generation X society said that social media has not changed the way they view themselves and that they have not compared their lifestyle against someone else’s online. Similarly, a respondent who is a baby boomer also has the same opinion. But why is this? Why do Generation Z, Millennials, Generation X and Baby Boomers all have different opinions on ideals and identity? Is this due to social media having a huge impact on the way the younger generations are growing up, or are they just more fashion forward and accepting of new trends which they are faced with every day?

Unique Style Platform recently released their Spring/ Summer 20 Macro trends, their seasonal statement explains “Preserving what we already have and taking a measured approach to consuming information and stuff encourages us to re-consider the concept of a perfect life” (2019). In their micro trend ‘Energise’(2019), they explain how disruptive thinking continues to create change and break down barriers as emotions are channelled and a sense of fun creates a playful approach to new experiences. Retail environments are beginning to change as retailers begin to re-think concepts of shopping to include interactive experiences to connect consumers and tap into their desire for more than just ‘stuff’. Some retailers are beginning to re-think concepts of making consumers feel confident within retail spaces by creating an interactive and innovative environment. ‘Coach’ is an example of this type of new innovation, setting up a concept store in SoHo New York with the aim of offering “guests a surreal experience rooted in theme of creativity and self- expression” (2018). Playing around with building a concept store which tells a story of the brand or a new marketing campaign, allows consumers to interactive and enter an immersive experience.

‘AGGREGATORS SPEAK IN TONGUES’ 19.06.17 Photography: Tim Lo Creative Direction and Styling: Samantha Diorio and Jake Paraskeva Beauty: Madeline Jurd Models: Kymberley Brook at FiveTwenty Model Mgmt and Sarah Monds at Priscillas

ENERGISE /ˈɛnədʒʌɪz/ VERB

GIVE VITALITY AND ENTHUSIASM TO. “PEOPLE WERE ENERGISED BY HIS IDEAS” 30

Social media is something Generation Z have recognised as part of their reality, comparing their lives against other people’s social media platforms is all they’ve known while growing up in this tech obsessed world. Continuously scanning feeds with these ‘flawless’ lifestyles and body ideals is hardly a news flash as research suggests, consuming their lives with social media is guaranteed to make them fall into the comparison trap.

‘WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE’ 28.11.16

GENERATION WHO? #1

Photographer: Pakbae Stylist: Yeon You Beauty: Jinny Kim Stylist Assistant: Jaewoo Shin Models: Clarice at Next, Kai at Models1

‘LOOKING FOR U’ 14.11.16 Photographer: Natalie McKain Stylist: Brigitte Hill Makeup: Hope O’Connor Models: Arabella Cooke and Leaf Leora

‘WHISPERING IN RAPTURES’ 26.02.18 Photographer: Stefano Ortega Stylist: Caitlyn Leary Hair: Juli Akaneya for R&Co Makeup: Toru Sakanishi Model: Nicole Pollard at The Lions Producer: Miles Soboleski Photo Assistant: Tommaso Sacconi Stylist Assistant: Tawnee Clifton

THE MACRO TREND: IDENTITY

‘HOTEL KIEV’ 01.01.18

IDENTITY #4

Photography & Production: Rachel Israela Styling: Maria Siviakova Beauty: Yevgeniya Kozlova Model: Simona at kmodels

IDENTITY /ʌɪˈdɛntɪti/ NOUN

THE FACT OF BEING WHO OR WHAT A PERSON OR THING IS.

Identity is something that defines a person, it is what singles individuals out from everyone else. Our identity can be shaped from the type of music we listen to, sexuality, age, ethnicity, social class, where one has come from and where you are aiming to go. Generation Z are pushing forward “a new kind of beautiful that shines from within and stems from individuality” (Weinstock, T. 2015). Identity is at the fore-front of current discussions when it comes to Generation Z, as the term ‘identity’ was never a forward issue in previous generations as we now move away from the days when beauty only meant one thing. Society would deem what was acceptable from the size and shape of a model, to their skin colour which made pushing these body norms not as forward in the public domain in previous generations. According to the Oxford Dictionary identity means “the fact of being who or what a person or thing is” which shows that everyone has their own identity, Generation Z are just at the forefront of this macro trend, aiming to push forward these norms of identity to express individuality.

‘NEVER GONNA LEAVE’ 26.12.16 Photographer: Madeleine Morlet Stylist: Theo White Models: Dennis Nyero Okwera at AMCK Models and Tunde Panache at Named Models

‘WALL OF SOUND’ 31.01.19 Photographer: Sun Choi Stylist: Jaechang Yu Beauty: Jieun Lee Model: Jung Im

Social media content is constantly around at a simple scroll of a finger as Generation Z are born into a world of social media being at the forefront of their lives, they grow up automatically knowing how technology works and are more tech savvy than previous generations, posting their lives on social media is all they have known, â&#x20AC;&#x153;donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think you have a digital identity? Think againâ&#x20AC;? (Ormerod, K. 2018)

‘THINGS I’LL NEVER DO AGAIN’ 14.01.19 Photographer and Stylist: Tatiana Chornenkaya Model: Tiani at Elite Management Paris

MACRO TREND “MAJOR SHIFTS IN CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR THAT WILL DICTATE OUT BUSSINESS ENVIRONMENT IN THE LONG- TERM.” 41

MICRO TREND “SPECIFIC SHIFTS IN CONUSMER BEHAVIOUR THAT ARE CHANGING THE BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT IN THE SHORT- TERM.” According to LSN Global a macro trend is “Major shifts in consumer behaviour that will dictate our business environment in the long-term” which is where the term ‘identity’ falls into this trend. “Gen Viz” was a ‘macro-trend’ article posted back in 2016 from LSN Global which explored “how teenagers are no longer self-absorbed souls” (LSN Global 2016) but are new social activists who are ultimately early adopters, powering the visual-first culture of tomorrow. ‘Limitless’ self- expression is a macro trend which can be created from this urge for individuality, where breaking down barriers can create an innovative sense of self- expression from the latter end of Millennials to the present-day Generation Z. A seasonal statement focusing on identity created from research gathered, concludes that pushing the need for a sense of individuality, Gen Z’ers begin to explore limitless possibilities for identity, pushing body norms and creating boundary breaking behaviours. Technology begins to blur boundaries between the online and in-real-life worlds, harnessing the power of data, Gen Z use their unorthodox minds to channel personality and explore limitless possibilities of identity pushing this macro trend created from their urge of self-expression. Micro Trends are “Specific shifts in consumer behaviour that are changing the business environment in the short-term” (LSN Global). Diversity and Inclusion are two terms which often get lumped together and fall into the sub-group of a micro trend. While it is important to break down barriers of race and diversity within the fashion industry, brands should consider that diversity may not be a trend. Diversity is a topic which has been acted upon by many brands by including more diverse models in marketing images and having diverse designers in the industry. Do brands understand the difference between inclusion and diversity? “Real change can only happen when diverse decision makers and executives are allowed to enter the highest levels of the industry” (Fernandes, C. 2018). Can expressing identity push diversity and inclusion which all brands need to act upon without making the fashion industry racist, or ignorant, or even both?

“We are all products of our past, present and futures, and our identities combine both our roots and aspirations” (Ormerod, K. 2018). Expressing identities online is something which has not been pushed forward in past generations. But Generation Z are beginning to push these norms of society and false lifestyles by beginning to express their own identities online, feeling more confident in showing their bodies and lifestyles, they are changing the ways social media is viewed and how it is portrayed by society. In an article published by Dazed, it states “A new study has found that teens are the most open-minded generation when it comes to their gender and sexuality – with less than half identifying as exclusively heterosexual.” (Sisley, D. 2016). Millennials have been exposed to social media and are quite open minded about identity and gender, but it seems that Generation Z are the ones who are using online platforms to really express themselves. They have a distinct difference in attitude towards identity and gender than previous generations with 56 per cent of Gen Z’ers “claiming to know someone who went by the neutral pronouns (like ‘they’, ‘them’ or ‘ze’)” (Sisley, D. 2016). 43

‘IF ONLY YOU KNEW’ 24.12.18 Photographer: Cara Friedman Stylist: Savanna Chonic Beauty: Ciara Maccaro Models: Kayla and Keenan at Margaux

But how are Generation Z pushing the norms of identity in today’s society and expressing their sense of individuality? An article published by Dazed (2015) delves into how Generation Z are ‘challenging ideals of beauty, body shape, and gender binaries’ as they are tired of unrealistic ideals and bored of racial stereotyping. Melanie Gaydos was born with a rare genetic disorder called Ectodermal Dysplasia which causes abnormalities to her teeth, hair and nails. Despite her rare condition she never let it get in the way of achieving her dreams and is now an actress and model who is hugely in demand, a far cry from the days where she was bullied and had suicidal thoughts (Dazed 2015). Similarly, Stefania Ferrario is a ‘plus- size’ model who calls for an end of the ‘ideal’ way of how a woman’s body should look, in a bid to ‘#DropThePlus’ and take away the stigma of models being judged for the size they wear but accepted for who they are (Dazed 2015), “Beauty is about exploring and embracing yourself and everything that makes you unique, physically and mentally. Also, it’s about finding that in everyone else. I find beauty in everyone and that is such a liberating and satisfying thing. The media generally feeds narrow ideas of beauty, but once you open your mind to the beauty in everyone and everything, it’s magical” (Weinstock, T. 2015). Modelling for both menswear and womenswear, Elliot Sailors blurs boundaries of gender and changes a whole new world of possibility for beauty. Gender fluidity is something which Generation Z push forward constantly, with new and upcoming models who embrace their gender roles creates a new possibility allowing Gen Z to feel confident and express their gender (Dazed 2015).

‘AN ENDLESS AFTERNOON’ 10.12.18 Photography: Lola Banet Styling: Maseiyu Hair: Yuki Oshiro Makeup: Chifumi Nambashi Model: Nene at CDU Models

EXPRESSING INDIVIDUALITY The quality or character of a particular person or thing that distinguishes them from others of the same kind, especially when strongly marked.

‘THE LAST GOLDEN LIGHT’ 06.12.18 Photographer: Min Xuan Hu Stylist: Miyabi Shuu Hair: Chi Yi Lin Makeup: Tung Han Hsieh Model: Xina & Young

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beauty is so boring, it's so plainly economic and it's so underwhelming. Our consumer culture has done a phenomenal job of shifting the boundaries of beauty over the last few years to include everybodyâ&#x20AC;? (Brandes. B) 48

‘MY STYLE IS NEVER DONE’ 17.09.18 Photography: Kristin-Lee Moolman Model: Jazzelle Zanaughtti Director: Terence Neale Producer: Park Pictures

E-tailer ASOS and retailer Monki are two major brands who stand out with the macro trend of ‘Identity’ and self- expression which is encouraged to their consumers through their brand identity. ASOS recently launched a campaign which focused on self- expression and invited their customers “to explore every part of their personal style and identity” with the campaign ‘My Style is Never Done’ (Wightman-stone 2018). Dramatizing the idea of self- expression, the model Jazzelle Zanaughtti was the forefront of the campaign through a series of diverse personas and alter egos to showcase a variety of different personal styles and identities. The overriding concept of the campaign was to explore different personalities, giving the audience the sense of confidence to explore their own personal styles and have an open- minded attitude towards fashion and selfexpression (ASOS 2018). “For me, ASOS is the major brand pushing for consumers to express themselves. With constant campaign’s pushing boundaries for individuality and exclusivity; they allow all their consumers to feel accepted” (2019), is the response from Isabella Kate Andrews when asked what brand she believed encouraged identity. Isabella Kate Andrews is a Fashion, Lifestyle and Travel blogger with over 17k followers on Instagram who established her brand ‘IsabellaKate’ back in 2016. Since then she has recently started her own YouTube channel where she expresses her personal style with her many followers. When asked why Gen Z are beginning to ignore stereotypes she responded, “I think the movement of ‘self-express’ was always going to happen and Generation Z have just led this revolution. Social media has definitely played a major role in this transformation. Allowing users to ‘hide behind the screen’, I think it’s easier and less vulnerable for individuals to express themselves” (2019). Speaking to an American Designer from the 90’s: Christian Francis Roth, his response differed when asked what brands are Gen Z focused with their marketing campaigns, “To be honest, I can’t think of any that are doing a very good job. I find most marketing to young people here in the USA to be shallow or unoriginal and lack a real message”. But when asked why Gen Z are pushing these stereotypes he responded, “Tolerance and acceptance have become major social causes for younger generations such as Millennials and Gen Z. This has opened the door for people to express themselves or experiment more freely with their personal style than in the past, with less fear of criticism or shaming. Gen Z people are trying new things with fashion, and I expect some creative, inspiring and inventive new points of view to emerge in the years to come” (2019).

Monki, with the support of Mental Health Europe, presented the small campaign ‘all the feels’ (Monki) which was created to raise awareness about social media and the positive/ negative effects it can have on an individual’s mental health with the help of 3 brand ambassadors who worked together on the campaign. Each of the ambassadors have gone through personal struggles with mental health and all have a strong social media presence which they use to inspire their audience to express their ‘feels’. As previously stated within this case study, mental health is a major issue when it comes to the use of social media, as there are signs of depression and anxiety when relating to social media. The use of this campaign allows the brand to connect with their consumers on a personal level and show their understanding to this dark subject which needs bringing up in more open discussions with Generation Z. Monki allow their consumers to connect with their brand and the ambassadors on a personal level to make them feel not alone when it comes to mental health issues.

‘COMING FOR BLOOD’ 27.12.18

GENERATION WHO? #2

Photographer: Nicholas Policarpo Stylist: Ojeras NYC Hair: Yu Nakata Makeup: Sena Murahashi Model: Alexandra Albright at The Identity Models

‘FATA MORGANA’ 24.01.19 Photographer: Zuzanna Zuonly Styling: Mirra Wesneski and Zuzanna Zuonly Producer: Mirra Wesneski Beauty: Sunna Bjork Erlingsdóttir Model: Urdur Vala at Eskimo Models

But why are ideals of body image and expressing personal identity changing as Generation Z grow? “Black culture tends to prize women with ‘thick’ bodies, Latin culture promotes a curvaceous figure with a big butt, Chinese and Japanese cultures prefer slim women, whilst South Asians like their women to have fuller figures as evidenced in the bodies of classic Bollywood actresses” (Haidari, N. 2015) reinforces the idea that body ideals are beginning to shift away from the typical white thin ‘instagrammable’ model to a more increased visibility of men and women from a variety of different cultures, showing the rest of the world that trying to look like these set body ideals is not undoubtedly a good thing. When it comes to shifting attitudes towards gender, around 25% of Generation Z’ers expect their gender identification to change throughout their life and 45% expect their identity to change around 2-3 times (Waite, T 2018). So why do people feel judged online when identities are probably going to change anyway as generations grow and explore new limitless possibilities?

‘LOVE FULL OF FIRE’ 10.07.17 Photographers: Niklas Bergstrand & Mateja Duljak Stylist: Anna Klein at Moon Mgmt Hair: André Cueto-Saavedra Makeup: Anna Sadamori using M.A.C Cosmetics Models: Dajana at Premium Models & Rupert at Success Agency

‘I SEE IT IN YOUR EYES’ 07.08.17

Photographer: Diego Hernandez Stylist: Silvia Macchioni Beauty: Laura Martucci Assistant: Giulio Cavicchini

‘IN THE STREETS OF HEARTS DESIRES’

Photography: Alessandra Padovani Styling: Valeria Della Valle Models: Nicolas Boeuf and Nahuel Serrano at Bananas Models Photo Assistant: Chiara Vittorini Styling Assistant: Johanna Frigiere

GEN Z IS DEAD?

IDENTITY #5

31.08.17

GENERATION Z NOUN

THE GENERATION REACHING ADULTHOOD IN THE SECOND DECADE OF THE 21ST CENTURY, PERCEIVED AS BEING FAMILIAR WITH THE INTERNET FROM A VERY YOUNG AGE. “CODING IS BECOMING MORE AND MORE INTEGRAL FOR GENERATION Z”

‘Gen Z is dead?’. Why is there a misconception when it comes to Generation Z, they are seen as the most tech savvy generation but are often judged when it comes to political and social issues, as if these activists don’t feel like they are well educated enough. The internet is Generation Z’s eyes and ears, giving them an insight and the platform to implement change when it comes to these issues, allowing young activists to express their opinions freely. “The internet is often painted as a black hole” (Abraham, A 2015), Gen Z are born into a post- internet world consisting of mobiles, high speeds but are constantly digitally adapting to new changes allowing them to be connected from their homes with a single touch on their handsets. But apart from their slight addiction to social media “Younger consumers are seriously concerned with social and environmental causes, which many regards as being the defining issue of our time. They increasingly back their beliefs with their shopping habits, favouring brands that are aligned with their values and avoiding those that don’t” (McKinsey 2019). The inclusion of social, political and environmental issues is a huge factor to the shopping habits of Generation Z, believing companies have a responsibility to address these issues within their branding and brand ethos. Gen Z have a passion for progressive and new era’s which is why brands could relate to Gen Z not only on a brand level but a personal level to make them feel like brands believe in their views and support their needs for an altered state of self-expression and individuality.

POST INTERNET WORLD Post internet denotes an idea in arts and criticism that refers to society and modes of interaction following the widespread adoption of the internet.

‘FROM EMBRACE TO EMBRACE’ 03.07.17 Photographer: Annie Powers Stylist: Carrie Weidner Hair: Cameron Rains Makeup: Akiko Owada Models: Irka Chiganaeva at Elite, Laura Hanson Sims at The Society

‘RENDEZVOUS AT LA BASTILLE’ 30.08.18 Photographer:Tristan Montalbot Stylist:Victoire Seveno Hair:Yann Turchi Makeup: Aurore Gibrien Models: Clara at New Madison & Katya at Mademoiselle Photography Assistant: Mélodie Jamet

GENERATION WHO? #2 Supporting such divisive issues also pose a risk for brands to be perceived as hypocritical if they do not carefully think about the message and actions they wish to support. LGBTQ+ community has the support of many brands as this message serves such a huge purpose in each generation but mainly Gen Z and Millennials. Back in 2018 Primark released pride themes T-shirts which were criticised for the fact they were produced in Turkey which is the third worst ranked country in Europe when it comes to LGBTQ+ equality (Duffy, N. 2018). The views of Gen Z and Millennial consumers may be considered critical when it comes to building a brand, choosing how they promote their products and aim at Gen Z can be a risk for any brand, but they are the generation that account for 40 percent of global consumers by 2020 according to The State of Fashion (McKinsey 2019), which is why brands need to get it right when it comes to advertising aimed towards Gen Z. Generation Z are well known for pushing ideals and being the ones who set trends, not only fashion but political and social trends. LGBTQ+ is a subject which is no longer the taboo it once was, younger generations are more open when it comes to experimentation and express their gender identities and sexualities (Telegraph 2018). Back in the 70’s, there was once an ‘Iconic Queer Discotheque’ era according to an article published in Vice (2018). The infamous Paradise Garage was primarily a space for the young, black and queer in the city of New York, but “attracted popular celebrities like Grace Jones and Madonna” (Renstrom, E. 2018). Paradise Garage was one of the most influential clubs as it raised important cultural and political issues with a sense of belonging to the LGBTQ+ minorities. The club was shut down due to local complaints that it was predominantly seen as a black club which was a huge loss for the LGBT community back in the 70’s. The questions involving racism and cultural appropriation still remain relevant today and is a subject which brands need to get right in order to market Generation Z correctly as they are a generation who take these subjects seriously.

‘I SMELL YOU ON MY SKIN’ 02.08.18 Photographer: Marcus Paarmann Design and Stylist: Regina Weber Beauty: Anne Timper at Ballsaal Artists Model: Luca at TFM Berlin

Primary research was conducted in order to gain an understanding of Gen Z’s demographic lifestyles and opinions. Results from a questionnaire suggested that self-expression to them meant ‘individuality’ and to be yourself, as most of the respondent’s answers were unanimous. The questionnaire gained an insight into their opinions on body ideals, effects and use of social media and self- expression. 40 respondents took part in the survey, to which 55% of the respondents were Generation Z’ers. The way social media is used and perceived was the main theme of the survey allowing respondents to anonymously submit their views on social media. When asked if social media has changed the way they view themselves 53% of respondents said no but when asked if other people’s opinions affect the way they act in day to day life, only 25% said yes which identifies that as a generation the majority feel confident in themselves and don’t feel the need to try to become someone else showing a sense of individuality.

‘THE AIR BETWEEN US’ 22.05.17 Photographer: Natalie McKain Stylist: Brigitte Hill Hair: Mikki Auld Model: Shirleen Beveridge at Katz Management

‘SOMEWHERE I’VE BEEN DREAMING OF’ 02.04.18 Photographer: Ilaria Taschini Stylist: Chiara Fortunato Hair: Francesco Ficara at MKS Makeup: Vanessa Icareg Model: Vika at Fashion Photo assistant: Sara Sibio Styling assistant: Greta Gardinali

‘WHEN THE PARTY’S OVER’ 25.10.18 Photography & Styling: Tatiana Chornenkaya Model: Kristin at Next Paris

IDENTITY #6

THE BIG IDEA: ‘LIMITLESS’

LIMITLESS /ˈlɪmɪtləs/ ADJECTIVE

WITHOUT END, LIMIT, OR BOUNDARY. “OUR RESOURCES ARE NOT LIMITLESS”

INCLUSIVE REFERS TO A SET OF POSITIVE BELIEFS AND VALAUES THAT YOUR ORGANISATION STANDS FOR THAT ARE IMPLANTED IN EMPLOYEES’ MINDS AS A RESULT OF THE CULTURAL TRANSFORMATION INITIATIVE.

Brands could be more inclusive when it comes to encouraging expression of ‘identity’ amongst their consumers. This signifies that there may be a gap in the market in regard to expressing ‘identity’ from a brands marketing perspective amongst their consumers. Findings show that brands need to target Gen Z regarding their ever-growing views and expressions which is where the gap in the market has stemmed from. Brands need to target Gen Z to allow them to connect with the brand on a personal level to engage with their views and opinions (McKinsey 2019). Primary and Secondary research ultimately led to the big idea of creating ‘Limitless’, a marketing campaign aimed directly at Generation Z and their need for individuality and self-express in this social media driven world. Allowing brands to engage with their consumers, the manual created will be an Integrated marketing strategy and brand audit designed to show how ASOS will use the macro trend of ‘Limitless’ to target Gen Z in today’s society. Considering individuality, addressing gender neutrality, self-expression, pushing body norms and giving Gen Z the confidence to express their true identity. The ‘big idea’ created from primary and secondary research findings hopes to progressively influence the way generations view themselves in day to day life, giving them the confidence to become or act the way they need is appropriate to their style and identity. Reports discuss that Generation Z are challenging ideals of beauty, body shape, and gender binaries already, which is why brands need to advertise this in their branding in order to connect with Generation Z. ASOS is one of the leading brands when it comes to Generation Z, they know how to connect well with this demographic and Gen Z feel that the brand connects with them strongly which is why the marketing campaign fits ASOS, showing how a brand can use ‘Limitless’ and make it fit their own brand identity.

‘SHINNING LIGHT OF DAY’ 11.10.18 Photographer: Kourtney Jackson Smith Stylist: K.C. Castellanos Hair: Tiago Goya Makeup: Alexa Hernandez Model: Ginger Puninskaya Photo Assistant: Summer Staeb

GENERATION WHO? #3

‘NEVER TEAR US APART’ 01.10.18 Photography & Art Direction: Celine Hasenstab Fashion Design & Styling: Luis de Javier Models: Ronald Made at Trend Models, Inge Ladd at Blare Models, Roma Losaberidze

The ‘lost iconic queer discotheque era’ will be used as inspiration for the marketing campaign and the editorial campaign. The club was previously seen as a place where any gender, race and sexuality could go to express themselves and their identities, which is something which needs to be brought back with Generation Z (Renstrom, E.2018). Using the Discotheque era will give consumers an insight into the LGBTQ+ scene from the 70’s and how selfexpression and identities were seen as a taboo subject. This subject will inspire the whole theme for both the marketing campaign and the editorial campaign which will hopefully give the consumers to confidence to push and explore their identities and show how Generation Z have been a revolutionary and boundary- breaking era, expressing their true selves.

‘THE BLOOD THAT BONDS US’ 25.10.17 Photographer: Danny Kasirye Stylist: Heather Hyein Lee Creative Director & Casting: Lyly Bui Hair: Asahi Sano Makeup: Seunghee Yoo Models: Sienna King at Tess Models and Natasha Luwedde at Select Styling Assistant: Ram Heo

A typical savvy gender pushing Gen Z’er, is automatically seen as London based teenager. But this is where this campaign aims to be different. Gen Z’ers from other areas of the UK never feel confident enough to show their own identity because they feel like they cannot express themselves due to the towns or city’s they come from as they may get judged (The Guardian 2018). They feel that living in London is the prime location for the macro trend of self- express, but ‘Limitless’ aims to change this. ‘Northern Soul’ is a smaller micro strategy which would be linked with ‘Limitless’, aiming to use models and focus the campaign on Gen Z’ers living in the northern area, allowing them the opportunity to feel confident in who they are. The location for the strategy manual will be aimed at Gen Z’ers in the ‘Northern’ area, using locations from this area within the promotional film and photoshoots created.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The fact is: to be a hyper-connected millennial today is to exist in multiple realities. To be both present within and outside of your own experiences, living them while simultaneously observing them; and assessing their share ability.â&#x20AC;? (Allwood E.H. 2018).

‘SOMEWHERE IN BETWEEN’ 07.09.17 Photographer: Henerico Rossi Stylist: Marina German Hair: Benjamin David using Bumble and Bumble Makeup: Emma Broom Models: Carson Zehner at Next, Sujin Lee at D1 Models Producer: Ana Pedro Photo Assistant: Semra AK

‘THE MOON DID NOT ANSWER’ 14.09.17 Photography: Aleksandra Adamczyk Styling: Mirey Enverova Beauty: Constance Haond Models: Aghiles and Yvens at Metropolitan Paris Light Assistant: Alan Marty Styling Assistant: Benoit Paquet

‘IN COLD BLOOD’ 13.07.17 Photographer: Antonio Eugenio Styling: Christos Christou Grooming: Bari Khalique Model: James Flury at Next Management

‘LIFE IN A GLASS HOUSE’ 12.07.18

IDENTITY #7

Photographer: Ceen Wahren at Acne Photography Stylist: Johanna Ankelhed Beauty: Sofia Holmgren at Mikas looks Model: Ella at Modellink Photographers Assistant: Hedda Axelsson

EPILOGUE 79

DIVERSITY /dʌɪˈvəːsɪti,dɪˈvəːsɪti/ NOUN

THE STATE OF BEING DIVERSE. “THERE WAS A CONSIDERABLE DIVERSITY IN THE STYLE OF THE REPORTS.”

Binding together the accumulated knowledge from primary and secondary research signifies that Generation Z are challenging the norms of identity through their online and offline presence. Research suggests that brands need to include diversity, political and social factors to gain the interest of Generation Z (Abraham. A, 2015). Research also suggests that there is a gap in the market in regard to encouraging the expression of ‘identity’ amongst Gen Z’ers from a brands perspective. As the concept of ‘Limitless’ was explored, research began to signify the difference between ‘Ideals’, ‘Identity’ and Generation Z, showing how they began to explore possibilities of self- expression through the use of social media and their own individual personalities, leaving a mark on today’s society.

‘THE DEVILS PLAYGROUND’ 20.08.18 Photographer: Luka Radek Stylist: Jordan Kelsey Model: Zelie Lockhart

‘UNTIL MORNING LIGHT’ 11.12.17 Photography: Lucrezia Ganazzoli Stylist: Nino Corito Hair: Maurizo Caruso Morreale Makeup: Rocco Santamorena Model: Maj Van der Ven

REALITY /rɪˈalɪti/ NOUN

THE STATE OF THINGS AS THEY ACTUALLY EXIST, AS OPPOSED TO AN IDEALISTIC OR NOTIONAL IDEA OF THEM.

Research shown in Chapter 1 signifies that unattainable body ideals are stemmed from social media, as these ever- growing platforms creates an unsettling space where users feel the need to keep up a set appearance or lifestyle. Endlessly scrolling through social media leads to a comparison trap, where Gen Z’ers begin to compare their lives against the people they see online from the image consumption they are faced with. This leaves a negative influence on the way they view their own identity (Ormerod K. 2018). Appearance pressures start in early adolescence due to the way social media is depicted and content which is consumed by Gen Z which is the main catalyst for body ideals, feeling the pressure to look or act a certain way in today’s society. Social media is something Generation Z recognised as part of their everyday reality, consuming their lives with these platforms to fill a lost gratification, which is why brands and influencers need to change the way they portray and use social media platforms to stop Gen Z’s feeling pressurised into looking a certain way.

‘STUCK IN A DREAMWORLD’ 18.02.19 Photographer & Creative Direction: Stavroula Zoë Stylist: Amanda Michelena Beauty: Atso Shurhozelie Model: Estelle Ocloo Stylist Assistant: Malena Martus

Identity is the fact of being who or what a person or thing is according to Cambridge English Dictionary. Identity is something which singles you out from every other person around, it makes you an individual and shapes you into who you are. Generation Z are at the forefront of self- expression as research shows, they are the generation who aim the change the way they are portrayed in society, allowing their views and expressions to shape their generation. As research suggests, brands who use Generation Z as their consumer group need to be inclusive when it comes to branding, as Gen Zâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demographic are political and environmental activists who want change within the world they live in, which gives brands the pressure of getting these issues right as Generation Z feel brands should acknowledge these issues faced in society (McKinsey 2019).

This case study aimed to delve into gender neutrality, self-expression, body ideals and individuality to answer the question of how Generation Z are challenging the norms of identity. Gaining an understanding into the mindset of Generation Z and how they use and portray social media platforms as a way of expressing their identity. As the term â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Identityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was explored, researched showed how brands and Gen Z need to work together in order to recognise body positivity and individuality in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s evergrowing society, which is a major gap in the current Gen Z market.

‘NOTHING UNTIL WE’RE FOUND’ 30.10.18

GENERATION WHO #4

Photographer: Enmi Yang Stylist: Ana Davidson Beauty: Adele Garcia Models: Casey Reeves, Xochitl Frazier, Kenna Matthews Photo Assistant: Clay Moss

‘QUEER MOVEMENTS’ 31.08.18 Features Editor: Madeleine Morlet Photographer: Grace Difford Casting Director & Producer: Grace Victoria Gadd Film Director & Videographer: Sophie Jones Film Editor: Berta Lozano Film Music: Evvol Stylist: Lottie Warren Hair: Tetsuya Keneko Makeup: Ana Fry Studio: Russian Club Studios

‘A STRANGE KIND OF FEELING’ 16.07.18 Photographer: Raissa Biscotti Stylist: Francesco Migliaccio Beauty: Genny Cecchini Model: Gui at MP Management

BIBLIOGRAPHY Introduction: 1. LSN Global. ‘Macro Trend’. https://www.lsnglobal.com/macro-trends 2. Monki. ‘Welcome to Monki’. https://www.monki.com/en_gbp/welcome-to-monki.html Chapter 1: 3. Abraham. A, (2015.) ID Magazine. ‘How Generation Z will change the world’ https://i-d.vice. com/en_uk/article/mbe3pa/how-generation-z-will-change-the-world 4. Allwood E.H. (2018) Business Of Fashion. ‘Op- Ed. The Dark Side of Social Media.’ https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-the-dark-side-of-social-media 5. Brandes, B. (2015) ‘ A girls guide to body image’ https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/59gqxk/a-girls-guide-to-body-image 6. Davies, E. (2017) ID Magazine. ‘A guide to rejecting white beauty standards and learning to love who you are’ https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/xwdxww/ebonee-davis-black-beautyguide 7. H&M (2019). ‘EYTYS X H&M – SWEDISH BFFS https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/life/culture/ inside-h-m/eytys-hm-collection-interview.html 8. Ormerod, K (2018) Why social media is ruining your life? Page 23. 9. Parkin, S. (2015) The Guardian. ‘Has Dopamine got us hooked on tech’ https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2018/mar/04/has-dopamine-got-us-hooked-on-tech-facebookapps-addiction 10. Royal Society for Public Health. (2017) ‘Instagram ranked worst for young people’s mental health’ https://www.rsph.org.uk/about-us/news/instagram-ranked-worst-for-young-people-smental-health.html 11. Sharma, V. (2018) ‘7 ways that social media is affecting us positively’. https://curatti.com/ social-media-positive-effects/ 12. Yakota, S. (2016) ‘Jaden Smith and a Video Game Character Star in Louis Vuitton’s Latest Campaign’. https://www.vogue.com/article/jaden-smith-louis-vuitton-campaign 13. @xforcades4 (2019) Twitter. Chapter 2: 14. Fernandez, C. Business of Fashion.’ What can the Fashion Industry do to be more Inclusive?’ https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/voices/what-can-the-fashion-industry-do-tobe-more-inclusive 15. Goedluck, L. (2018) ASOS.com. ‘Explore your personal style with Jazzelle’ https://www. asos.com/men/fashion-feed/2018_09_12-wed/explore-your-style-with-jazzelle/ 16. Haidari, N. (2015) ID Magazine. ‘How ideals of beauty and the body differs across race’ https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/kz8xpx/how-ideals-of-beauty-and-the-body-differs-acrossrace 17. LSN Global. ‘Macro Trend’. https://www.lsnglobal.com/macro-trends 18. LSN Global. ‘Micro Trend’ https://www.lsnglobal.com/micro-trends 19. LSN Global. (2016) ‘Gen Viz’ https://www.lsnglobal.com/macro-trends/article/19109/genviz 20. Monki. ‘All the feels’ https://www.monki.com/we-are-monki/monki-thinks/ 21. Ormerod, K (2018) Why social media is ruining your life? Page 38. 91

22. Ormerod, K. (2018) Why social media is ruining your life? Page 52. 23. Sisley. D (2016) Dazed. ‘Teens are more queer than ever, reveals study’ https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/30326/1/teens-are-more-queer-than-ever-says-new-study 24. Waite, T. (2018) Dazed Magazine. ‘Read Gucci and Irregular Labs’ latest report on gender fluidity in Gen Z.’ https://www.dazeddigital.com/life-culture/article/42698/1/read-gucci-irregular-labs-latest-report-on-gender-fluidity-gen-z 25. Weinstock, T. (2015) ID Magazine. ‘Challenging ideals of beauty, body shape, and gender binaries with generation z.’ https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/gyg5my/challenging-ideals-of-beauty-body-shape-and-gender-binaries-with-generation-z 26. Wightman-Stone, D. (2018) Fashion United. ‘Asos launches self- expression campaign’. https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/asos-launches-self-expression-campaign/2018092039034

Chapter 3: 27. Abraham. A, (2015.) ID Magazine. ‘How Generation Z will change the world’ https://i-d.vice. com/en_uk/article/mbe3pa/how-generation-z-will-change-the-world 28. Duffy, N. (2018) ‘Primark’s Pride collection is made in countries where it’s illegal to be gay’ https://www.pinknews.co.uk/2018/05/23/primark-pride-merch-illegal-gay-turkey-myanmar-china/ 29. McKinsey&Company (2019) ‘The state of Fashion’ Page 45. https://www.mckinsey.com/~/ media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/the%20state%20of%20fashion%202019%20 a%20year%20of%20awakening/the-state-of-fashion-2019-vf.ashx 30. Renstrom, E. (2018) Vice . ‘Lost Photographs of an Iconic Queer Discotheque’ https://www. vice.com/en_uk/article/wj37x4/lost-photographs-of-an-iconic-queer-discotheque 31. Rugard, O. (2018) ‘Only two thirds of Generation Z identify as ‘exclusively heterosexual’. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2018/07/05/two-thirds-generation-z-identify-exclusively-heterosexual/ Chapter 4: 32. Iqbal, N. (2018) ‘Generation Z: ‘We have more to do than drink and take drugs’ https://www. theguardian.com/society/2018/jul/21/generation-z-has-different-attitudes-says-a-new-report 33. McKinsey&Company (2019) ‘The state of Fashion’ Page 45. 34. Renstrom, E. (2018) Vice . ‘Lost Photographs of an Iconic Queer Discotheque’ https://www. vice.com/en_uk/article/wj37x4/lost-photographs-of-an-iconic-queer-discotheque Conclusion: 35. Abraham. A, (2015.) ID Magazine. ‘How Generation Z will change the world’ https://i-d.vice. com/en_uk/article/mbe3pa/how-generation-z-will-change-the-world 36. McKinsey&Company (2019) ‘The state of Fashion’ Page 45. 37. Ormerod, K (2018) Why social media is ruining your life? Page 23. IMAGES REFRENCE: Jingyu Lin. (2016) Teeth Magzine. http://www.teethmag.net/jingyu-lin-i-know-its-over/ Fig 1: ‘Ugly Girl’ https://originaluglygirl.tumblr.com/post/159710850266 Fig 2: Pinterest. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/438256607487719689/ Fig 3: Pinterest. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/438256607486940248/ Fig 4: @marcussivyer. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/marcussivyer/?hl=en