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CONTENTS
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Editors letter
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Stella McCartney
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V is for Victory
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The Star before the Swoosh
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EDITORS LETTER Throughout this zine I will be exploring the relationship between sport and fashion throughout the centuries and how it has influenced us today. Since I was young the holidays I went on as a child were ski holidays opposed to my friends who travelled to remote sunny islands in exotic places, but in turn the mountains became my very own sunny island. The rush you get as you schuss down the freshly bashed snowy slope in the morning sun, as the bitter chill attacks your face refreshing your soul. Then lunch time comes around and it’s time for chips and coke at the Plan du Repos. Basking in the sun, lounging in the deckchairs feeling like you are on your own little sunny island. Then upon opening your eyes seeing the sprinkle of colours on the slope creating a picture-perfect scene like one of Andreas Gursky’s photographs.
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STELLA MCCARTNEY Trailblazer for eco fashion
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Stella McCartney is one of the most sought-after fashion designers of this generation. She is known worldwide and her fashion, and ethos, has inspired people from all corners of the globe. She is the 2nd daughter of singer Paul McCartney however, she has worked hard to establish her own name for herself and not get to where she is by using her father’s name. By 2001, she had released her first collection under her own self-titled fashion label. She released her kid’s collection in 2010, opening her designs to a new generation. She is now successful in her own right and has 48 free-standing stores worldwide. Receiving an OBE for her contribution to fashion.
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Stella McCartney is known for her passion for ecological ideas and stand against animal cruelty links with fashion. She has removed the use of real fur, leather and cashmere from her collections and now uses Viscose in her designs which has been made from sustainable sources. This has meant that her fashion house ‘Stella McCartney’ it the only fashion house able to say roughly 50% of materials uses are sustainable which no other label can claim. She joined the Clevercare initiative in 2014, which looks into reducing the environmental impact of washing clothes and making them last longer. Washing contributing to 25% of the worlds carbon footprint. She is a lifelong vegetarian and embeds this ethos into her fashion designs, she showcases a clear desire to bring ecological fashion to couture. “Stella McCartney Becomes the First Global Fashion Brand to Support the Development of Wildlife Friendly® Products That Help People and the Planet” This quote is from the Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network for which Stella McCartney is a founding corporate member.
McCartney gives credit to Adidas in educating her on sustainability. One thing the company made her aware of is the dangers that come with the use of PVC, or vinyl (polyvinyl chloride) which is commonly used in the making of outerwear and to coat a handbag. Adidas’s development team helped introduce her to injection dye, engineered knitting and the reuse of waste products. In 2016 the company released its Adidas x Parley shoe collaboration with the Parley Ocean Plastic programme, which uses waste from the ocean to create textiles. This lead McCartney to create a running outfit for Adidas using Parley’s material for fall 2017. This shows that Stella has a clear want and desire to ensure that the rest of the fashion industry follows her eco-friendly methods and shares in her ethos to ultimately, make real cultural change in the world. Throughout her career, so far, Stella has had many great partnerships and worked alongside some world- famous brands. She joined the high-end fashion house ‘Chloe’ in 1997 as their Creative Director and, after 2 12
collections, became the youngest in their history. In 2004, she formed a partnership with Adidas. This syndicate with the well-known sports brand sponsored Stella in her part in the 2012 London Olympics. She was appointed as the creative director of the GB Olympic kit, this was a substantial moment as she was the first leading fashion designer to be selected to design an Olympic kit. This design concept was so popular that she was also asked to design the 2016 Olympics in Rio de Janeiro Due to the success of the partnership and sponsorship with Adidas regarding the GB Olympic kits, Stella created a sports line named ‘Stella Sport’ in 2015.
“Stella McCartney Becomes the First Global Fashion Brand to Support the Development of Wildlife Friendly® Products That Help People and the Planet”
In 2008, she launched her first lingerie collection which started the ongoing expansion of the ‘Stella McCartney’ brand. In 2010, she introduced the ‘Falabella’ handbag that has distinguishing braided metal trim, which has since become an iconic bag design all over the world. These partnerships have helped Stella gain a name for herself with people that may not usually be her target audience. 13
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Lacoste started in 1933 created by Rene Lacoste
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MONCLER
Sat, rocking in the winter wind, up high, ice cold pricks hitting against your skin. It sounds horrible but it is one of the few and in hindsight minor downsides to my favourite holiday. Once the wicked chill has gone with the sun forcing its way through the clouds, putting a spotlight on the snowy slope below you illuminating the sprinkle of fellow snow lovers, highlighting the array of different colours and patterns used to express ones-self colouring your way down, leaving
a blur in its wake. Every time I went on a ski holiday I was always so intrigued with the variety of different designs and colours of ski apparel available, always finding a new (and usually expensive) outfit every year that I wished to buy. Moncler encompasses this feeling desire in each of their designs, everyone making you want to just wrap up in their clothing and hit the slopes on a blue-bird morning. Being the pioneers of the down jacket from around 1952, which 22
Moncler name sake came from the abbreviation of Monestier-de-Clermont, a small mountain town near Grenoble, France
was first created to protect workers from the cold initially, later going on to be the jacket of choice for many expeditions after the French mountaineer Lionel Terray, who later collaborated to produce a specialised range. In 1954, the choice of jacket to equip the Italian expedition to Karakorum was the Moncler quilted jacket. Following the huge success, they had in expedition apparel, during the 1968 Grenoble Winter Olympics Moncler became the official
supplier of the French downhill ski team. This special event was also the mark to change their logo, where Mount Eguit was replaced by the cockerel. The sponsorship for the downhill team also brought changes and variations to the quilted jacket. No longer did they want the double version but a single garment that was more manageable, light and suited to competition regulations. Primarily named “Huascaran” and then “Nepal”, with the addition of leather epaulettes, not as aesthetic design but to reduce damage to the fabric when skis were rested against the garment. Still, to this day Moncler is a popular choice on the slopes, for the wealthier holiday goers as prices for their products is still high. However, this does not stop people like me, who although cannot afford one of their renowned jackets still pines after their new collections. 23
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START WHERE YOU ARE. USE WHAT Y
- Arthur As
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HAT YOU HAVE. DO WHAT YOU CAN.
rthur Ashe
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CONVERSE The Star before the Swoosh
One of the most popular style and brand of trainers, Converse has dominated the sports trainer market from the 1920s to 1970s with over 750 million pairs sold in its history. Starting as a rubber sole company in 1908, Marquis Mills Converse specialised in galoshes but soon after, started adapting the design and used the rubber soles to make the now iconic trainers. In a time where trainers main function was to be worn for sport and not leisure converse released the AllStar shoe which was a classic canvas basketball shoe as there was an ever-increasing market for basketball shoes as the games popularity grew becoming the first mass produced basketball shoe in North America. Then 6 years later Charles ‘Chuck’ Taylor one of the times major basketball players became a sales ambassador for the brand and in 1932 Taylors signature was added to the All-Star patch on the classic hightop style. By the 30’s Chuck Taylors All Stars were being worn by basketball teams across America, and then the huge advance in their design when Chuck Taylor designed
the white hi-top model, adorning the patriotic red and blue striped along the sole, for the USA’s Olympic basketball team 1936. When the war started for America, the red, white and blue converse became a symbol of patriotism. Soldiers even sported the white hi-tops during exercise and training drills, and then became the official trainer of the United States Armed Forces. Converse started getting lots of pressure from basketball teams for a wider range of colours so that the shoe could match the individual kits so in 1966 they released variety of new colours closely followed by different materials like leather, suede, vinyl and even hemp. Converse dominated the athletic footwear industry for some time having 90% of the industry in the 60’s with no other competitors having the same amount of impact on the industry as them. However, with companies such as Nike, Puma, Reebok and Adidas emerging converse started to lose their near monopoly as these new com28
panies had new technologies and innovations in footwear. Basketball athletes started to get drawn towards these exciting, futuristic looking designs and how they focused more on the shape of the foot and support to increase performance. Nevertheless, the expiration of their time in the sporting world did bring new opportunities in other markets as the classic All Star style was adopted by many subcultures across the world. The music industry was a major player in this new lease of life for Converse, especially the punk rock movement. The shoe became a symbol of the time and rebellion, acting as an alternative, comforta-
ble, casual shoe for people not willing to pay the high prices for the tech performance enhancing styles. This new direction meant that they were moving more into a fashionable lifestyle brand rather that a sports brand. This has led to converse collaborating with many different brands and people. One of the most iconic collaborations is the Converse X Comme de Garรงons PLAY collection that consisted of both lo and hi-top styles featuring the iconic heart logo. In early 2015 they also teamed up with Andy Warhol and but his classic Campbell soup cans in two different designs on the side of Chuck Taylors All Stars.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY https://www.fastcompany. com/40474789/stella-mccartney-isweaving-a-new-way-forward https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/stella-timeline/ https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/about-stella/ http://www.parley.tv/updates/2017/4/4/ design-with-purpose-adidas-by-stellamccartney-joins-the-movement http://wildlifefriendly.org/stella-mccartney-becomes-first-global-fashionbrand-to-join-the-wildlife-friendly-enterprise-network/ https://theidleman.com/manual/arrivals/brands/history-of-converse/ http://www.complex.com/sneakers/2013/05/50-things-you-didnt-knowabout-converse-chuck-taylor-all-stars/ oxford https://www.urbanindustry.co.uk/blogs/ news/a-brief-history-of-the-conversechuck-taylor-all-star http://www.monclergroup.com/en/ group/history https://www.moncler.com/gb/
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