Pattern Drafting and Construction

Construction Rotation

FSHN 2100 Megan Blakemore Contour Fashion

Megan Blakemore

TABLE of CONTENTS 34B Wired balcony bra Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis

Size 10 34B Basque Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis

Two Layered 34B Bra

Size 10 Brazilian Brief Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis

Size 10 Boy short Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis

Size 10 Suspender belt Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis

Megan Blakemore

Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis

Garment Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

MRB

Size Range 34B

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Padded bra

Range Division Date

29/01/2015

Design Specification

Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

Garment Type Padded bra

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Range Division Date

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

Size Range 34B

MRB

S/S 15

29/01/2015

D

E

F

C

G

H

A I

B

Ref.

A

Fabric/Component

Description

Position

Composition /Colour

Jacquadronic all over repeat lace

CF bridge Side cradle Outer CF cup Outer side cup

White Laminated - rigid Slight mechanical stretch

Denier

CF bridge Side cradle

White Rigid

Lace trim

Neckline of outer CF cup and outer side cup

White Rigid Lace edge trim

Elastic strapping

Left and right strap

White % stretch

Bow embroidery

CF CF strap position

Rings and sliders

Strap adjusters

B

C

D

E

F

Megan Blakemore

Supplier

Cost

Ref.

Fabric/Component

Description

Position

Padding

Inner CF cup Inner side cup

White Laminated foam

Powermesh

Wings

White % stretch

Hook & eye fastening

CB

G

H

I

Composition /Colour

Megan Blakemore

Adjustable Double hook and eyes White

Supplier

Cost

Pattern Specification

Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

Garment Type Padded bra

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer Ref.

1 of 7

2 of 7

3 of 7

4 of 7

5 of 7

Pieces

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

MRB

Size Range 34B Name

CF Bridge

Cradle

Side inner cup

Side outer cup

CF inner cup

Megan Blakemore

S/S 15

ACD

Range Division Date Quantity

29/01/2015

Comments

MRB

Cut 1 pair lace Cut 1 pair denier

5mm SA on straight edge 6mm SA on around cup

MRB

Cut 1 pair lace Cut 1 pair denier

5mm SA on straight edge 6mm SA on around cup

Cut 1 pair foam

No SA on neckline, underarm and overbust 6mm SA on around cup

Cut 1 pair rigid laminated lace

No SA on neckline.

5mm SA on underarm & overbust 6mm SA on around cup

Cut 1 pair foam

No SA on neckline, underarm and overbust 6mm SA on around cup

MRB

MRB

MRB

Pattern Specification

Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

Garment Type Padded bra

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer Ref.

6 of 7

7 of 7

Pieces

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

MRB

Size Range 34B Name

CF outer cup

Wing

Megan Blakemore

S/S 15

ACD

MRB

MRB

Range Division Date Quantity

Cut 1 pair rigid laminated lace

29/01/2015

Comments No SA on neckline.

5mm SA on underarm & overbust 6mm SA on around cup

Cut 1 pair powermesh 5mm SA

Measurement Specification

Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

Garment Type Padded bra

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

Size Range 34B

MRB

S/S 15

Range Division Date

29/01/2015

I

E B

C

G H

D

J

F

A

Measurement Description

Ref.

Size in MM unless stated

A

Underband measurement (whole length)

67.4cm

B

Side seam depth

57mm

C

Wire casing around length

190mm

D

Overbust length

125mm

E

Neck line length

175mm

F

CF bridge depth

28mm

CF bridge length

13mm

H

Wing length

148mm

I

Strap lengths

47cm

J

CB length

28mm

G

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer Op. No.

3

Size Range 34B

MRB

S/A

1 2

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Padded bra

Range Division Date

Operation Description

29/01/2015

Machine No.

Butt join foam at over bust seam X2

3Z

3mm

Bag out CF bridge at top and bottom, turn through to hide raw edge

LS

5mm

LS over bust seam on outer cups X2

LS

Stabilize seam open to offer more support and a decorative touch X2

Tw

LS lace edge trim to neckline of outer cups X2

LS

4 5 6

Over lock neckline of inner foam cups to tidy raw edge and prevent discolouring X2

7

Baste together inner and outer cups at around cup edge X2

8 9

Baste together inner and outer side cradle X2

5mm

Join side wing and cradle together X2

LS

Stabilise seam towards CF X2

Tw

Run on elastic at underband X2

LS

Run back elastic at underband X2

3Z

6mm

LS CF bridge to CF cup edge at notch

LS

6mm

LS cradle to cups X2

LS

5mm

Run on elastic at top of wing, cradle and underarm

LS

Run back elastic

3Z

5mm

12 13 14 15

LS

3mm

10 11

1/N O/L

16 17

Ha/LS

Make up straps X2

18

6mm

Attach wire casing to around cup seam, turning all of the underband raw edge inside the wire casing

Megan Blakemore

LS

Tw

Garment Breakdown

Op. No.

S/A

21 22 23

Machine No.

Push through wires into wire casing X2

19 20

Operation Description

3mm

5mm

Seal wire casing with bar tack stitch X3

Insert hook and eye to CB and LS

LS

LS straps at notch and CF X2

LS

Trim loose threads

Megan Blakemore

Machine Reference Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Machine Name

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

Size Range 34B

MRB

Stitch Sample

Reference Code

Lock Stitch

LS

Gatherered stitch

GS

3-Step Zig-zag

3Z

Zig-zag

Z

Twin needle tape

T

Twin needle boning

TNB

Twin needle wire casing

TNW

Baby over locker

BO

3 Thread overlocker

3O

4 Thread overlocker

4O

Steam presser (iron)

N/A

SP

Hand stitch

N/A

HS

Eyelet machine

N/A

S/S 15

Garment Type Padded bra

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Season

EY

Megan Blakemore

Range Division Date

29/01/2015

Fit Analysis

Product No. 001

Design No.

Garment Type Padded bra

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

MRB

S/S 15

Season

001

Size Range 34B

Range Division Date

29/01/2015

Comments Natural

Padded Bra

I tried this style on my house mate who, depending on brand, wears a size 34B/32C. First of all I noticed this style was quite small over the volume of breast tissue, she pointed out that she felt as though she was going to come out of the bra and constantly be tucking herself in and giving her this “monoboob” look when wearing a T-shirt.

In addition to this, you can see in some of these photo’s, her breast was coming out at the side of the cup.

Secondly, the wire isn’t sitting on the breast root trace but on the breast tissue which is also obviou to the photosgraphs, but the model again pointed this out.

I do think the CF sits quite nicely on the figure, when moving it was starting to come away from the body slightly, but with the correct breast root trace and wire position this could be changed.

As I started to look around the back, the hook and eyes were on the second hook which the model found most comfortable, again this could be down to the different in size 32C and 34B.

Megan Blakemore

200

200

210

174

178

182

forward rather then sitting up, i tightened the straps to counteract this motion which helped a lot but the model found them uncomfortable and also left a red mark.

From comparing the golden triangle measurements you can see that the bra has done its job by pulling the boobs together and up quite considerably. Therefore, I think that with a bit more work and pattern development I could make the cup fit on the model better.

Overall, I have found this bra very poorly fitting with a lot of room for development. I do think this is one of my best constructions so far as it is very neat.

Pattern Drafting

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

MRB

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Padded bra

Range Division Date

29/01/2015

Comments To adapt my 34B balcony bra I started off by writing all the important information on the patter piece; date, initial, garment, pattern piece, how many cut pieces I needed, fabric, what pattern piece it was and out of how many (3 of 7 for example), i also wrote seam allowances I needed to add, what the seam was in the area (overbust, around cup, side seam and so on) and finally, grain lines.

After adding all the information I started applying my seam allowance in order to measure the seams after and make sure they were all flush.

The cradle was 3mm too big for the cup, therefore I added 1.5mm on either side of the cups on the around edge to make sure it was even and symmetrical.

I then drew around my MS20 wire using an X and Y axes, I measured the outer line of the wire against the cradle to see if it would fit. I then added wire play and bar tack allowance (8mm at underarm, 5mm for wire play and 3mm for bar tack and 3mm bar tack aat the CF).

Finally, I traced my final pattern pieces onto card to ensure they were accurtate, I also applied notches for reference points.

Megan Blakemore

Construction Analysis

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description 34B padded balcony bra.

Fabric Customer Designer

Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.

MRB

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Padded bra

Range Division Date

29/01/2015

Comments I think the construction of my 34b balcony bra is very neat, I am happy with the over all outcome of the bra even if the fit isn’t that great.

Firsty, I will start by saying that butt joining the foam was quite difficult as it has a slightly curve and you really have to push them together, I did re-do the foam a couple of times to get it perfect.

I then LS joined the outer cup, because the lace was rigid and laminated I managed to stabilize the seam without having any problems with the tension.

I did have a bit of issues when joining the up to the CF bridge because it kept movin and pulling the cups closer together leaving less room in the CF which would effect the fit. This did take me a while to get right.

ALso, I struggled when applying the wire casing to the bra because I have never used a design with a visible wire, but over all I think it look quite neat for my first time.

I am very pleased with the tension of my elastic as I do struggle when doing elastic on garments. they are both an equal tension and enough to spring the wire but sit comfortable against the body as well as adding hang appeal.

Finally, I did have a problem with the wire, even though I measured them and adjusted the pattern to fit the wire, there doesn’t seam to be a lot of room for wire play which I could improve in the future.

Megan Blakemore

Garment Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015

Megan Blakemore

Design Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 A

D C

B

Ref.

A

Fabric/Component

Description

Position

Composition /Colour

Tulle embroidery with scallop edge

CF

White Tulle embroidery Scallop edge Mechanical stretch

Cotton jersey

Gusset inner

White

Powermesh

CB/Side panel Gusset outer

White 30% stretch

Knicker elastic

Waistline Left/right side panel Gusset

White 40% stretch

B

C

D

Megan Blakemore

Supplier

Cost

Pattern Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Ref.

1 of 4

2 of 4

Pieces

Name

CF

ACD

Quantity

Comments

MRB

Cut 1 pair

CB Side

MRB

Cut 1 pair 6mm SA Powermesh

Gusset inner

MRB

Cut 1 Cotton jersey

Gusset outer

MRB

Cut 1 6mm SA Powermesh

3 of 4

4 of 4

Megan Blakemore

No SA on side- scallop edge 6mm on on waist and CF

6mm SA

Measurement Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

Season

001

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015

C

D

H

E

A B

I J

F

K G

Ref.

Measurement Description

Size in MM unless stated

A

CF lace panel depth

180mm

B

CF lace panel length

240mm

C

CF lace panel waist

280cm

D

Side width

60mm

E

CF side panel length

58mm

F

Gusset length outer

108mm

G

Gusset width

61mm

H

CB width

260mm

I

CB depth

170mm

J

CB leg length

248mm

K

82mm

CB gusset

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Op. No.

S/A

1

5mm

Baste stitch CF seam for security, followed by overlocking the raw edge.

LS 1N O/L

2

5mm

Baste stitch CB seam for security, followed by overlocking the raw edge.

LS 1N O/L

Overlock CF inner gusset

1N O/L

6mm

Bag out CB gusset using lockstitch for security, overlock raw edge

LS 1N O/L

6mm

Run on elastic at leg x2

3 4 5 6 7

6mm

8

Operation Description

Machine No.

LS

Run back elastic x2

3Z

Insert gusset ‘V’ to CF lace panel

LS

Overlock side seam raw edge

1N OL

9

6mm

Insert left side seam to lace panel x1

LS

10

6mm

Run on elastic at waist starting from open seam

LS

11

Run back elastic at waist

3Z

12

Trim all loose threads & inster label at CB if necessary

Megan Blakemore

Machine Reference Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015

Machine Name

Stitch Sample

Reference Code

Lock Stitch

LS

Baste stitch

LS

3-Step Zig-zag

3Z

Zig-zag

Zi

Twin needle tape

T

Twin needle boning

TNB

Twin needle wire casing

TNW

1 needle overlock

1N OL

3 Thread overlocker

3O

4 Thread overlocker

4O

2 Needle cover stitch

2N OL

Steam presser (iron)

N/A

SP

Hand stitch

N/A

HS

Eyelet machine

N/A

EY

Megan Blakemore

Fit Analysis Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015

Comments As this is a size 10/12 brazilian I chose to try it on a model similar to these measurements. The reason I tired to try it on a human figure rather than a mannequin is because they have fullness where you would expect and a mannequin doesn’t so it wouldn’t show the fit as well.

I think the fit of this knicker is very good, the tension on the elastic is almost perfect and it sits plus against the skin.

The waistline is at a good position on the figure and the leg comes up at a nice angle over the bum so that it is comfortable but still ha that brazilian shaping.

I do feel that the CF could be slightly bigger as it seemed to distort the tulle embroidery around the leg and the model mentioned that it felt a bit sharp around this area, meaning it was tight and applying pressure around the body.

The over all construction of this is, I feel, very good. I am pleased with the finish and placement of the lace. Because my fabric was an embroidery I had to use a right and wrong side of the fabric to ensure they matched up on the garment. The only thing I would mention is that on the left side seam where the lace meets the powermesh, I didn’t overlay it as much as I should’ve which iI did do on the opposite side.

Megan Blakemore

Pattern Drafting Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Comments To adapt my size 10/12 brazilian brief I starte off by squaring off all my pattern pieces using a ruler and 3mm pencil. I then read all the information on my pattern pieces and added seam allowance where necessary.

After adding my seam allowance I had to apply grain lines.

I then went onto measuring my seams to make sure they would all corrsepond and sit flush when constructing the garment.

When looking at the measurements I noticed the CB was 12mm bigger than the CB gusset seam, therefore, I tapered in the surve on the leg to meet the CB gusset seam.

Also, because I was using a galloon edge tulle embroidery for the CF of the brazilian, I had to do a scan of the embroidery to work out where the peaks and valleys were in order to cut the pattern piece so that it was symmetrical when sewing. However, because my tulle had a right and wrong side and wasnt an exact repeat pattern I had to use this when sewing in order to get the line of symmetry.

Other than that I didn’t have to make any adaptations to this pattern, however, I decided to eliminate the side seam and join the side to the CB and the seam on the pattern pieces as I thought this would look nicer on my design.

I then followed the grain lines against the fabric, ensuring that the stretch was the correct way and they were equal against the selvedge so the fabric didn’t twist.

Megan Blakemore

Construction Analysis

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Comments I am qutie happy with the standard of construction for this brazilian knicker. When sewing, I tried a few techniques out on the fabric in order to decided what was better for the material.

For example, when joining the CF i managed to get the embroidery symmetrical which I was thrilled about even if it is a wrong and right side. Once I had joined the panels I had to decide whether I wanted to stabilize the seam or over lock it. After doing a couple of samples, I decided the stabilizer tape was too heavy for the material and the tension wasn’t right so it puckered the material. Therefore I over locked the seam and top stitch it down.

I also used over lock stitch on other raw edges to kep it consistent.

I was pleased with bagging out the gusset, using the pin and quartering method ensured my seams sat flush and I didn’t ave any over hang.

When joining the CF to the side seams you can see that one is hanging over slightly more than the other which is disappointing for me but i didn’t noticed until I had applied and turned back all my elastic - therefore I could improve this next time.

I am very happy with the tension of the elastic as it is not my forte, however, after a lot of perseverance I don’t think it could’ve gone better.

Therefore, I am very happy with the final of this garment, there is a bit of room for improvement but for my first brazilian brief I think it is constructed well.

Megan Blakemore

Garment Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 10-12

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Design Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 10-12

A

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

E C

D

B

Ref.

Fabric/Component

Description

Position

Composition /Colour

Powermesh

CF CB Gusset outer

White 40% stretch

Cotton jersey

Gusset inner

White

Knicker elastic

Waistline

White Picot edge 25% stretch

Cover stitch

Left leg Right leg

White thread

A

B

C

D

Three step zig zag

Waistline

E

F

Megan Blakemore

White thread

Supplier

Cost

Pattern Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

Ref.

1 of 3

MRB

Size Range 10-12

Pieces

Name

CF

ACD

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Quantity

Comments

MRB

Cut 1 6mm SA on waistline on fold Powermesh and SS 12mm hem allowance

CB

MRB

Cut 1 6mm SA on on fold waistline Powermesh and SS 12mm hem allowance

Gusset inner and Gusset outer

MRB

Cut 1 on fold Powermesh Cut 1 on fold Cotton jersey

2 of 3

3 of 3

Megan Blakemore

6mm SA on CF and CB seam 12mm hem allowance

Measurement Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 10-12

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

G

B C

F

A H

D

I

E

Ref.

Season

Measurement Description

Size in MM unless stated

A

CF length

B

CF waist length

C

Side seam length

13.7cm

D

CF leg length

21.2cm

E

CF gusset width

85mm

F

CB length

20.9cm

G

CB waist length

40.1cm

H

CB leg length

21.1cm

I

CB gusset width

127mm

Gusset length

120mm

16.5cm 38cm

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

Op. No.

1

S/A

6mm

2 3

6mm

4

7 8 9

Size Range 10-12

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Operation Description

Machine No.

Baste stitch, bag out CB gusset to secure the seam before overlocking.

LS

Overlock conceal CB gusset

1/N O/L

Baste stitch, bag out CF gusset

LS

Overlock conceal CF gusset

1/N O/L

Turn through gusset, right side facing

5 6

MRB

Season

12mm Turn hem 12mm using a two needle cover stitch x2 6mm

Baste stitch join side seam before over lock stitch x1

6mm

Run on elastic at waist starting at the open side seam Run back elastic

2/N C/S

LS 1/N O/L LS

3Z

10

6mm Baste other side seam followed by over lock stitch x1

11

Trim all loose threads & inster label at CB if necessary

Megan Blakemore

LS 1/N O/L

Machine Reference Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

Machine Name

MRB

Size Range 10-12

Stitch Sample

Reference Code

Lock Stitch

LS

Baste stitch

LS

3-Step Zig-zag

3Z

Zig-zag

Z

Twin needle tape

T

Twin needle boning

TNB

Twin needle wire casing

TNW

1 needle overlock

1N OL

3 Thread overlocker

3O

4 Thread overlocker

4O

2 Needle cover stitch

2N OL

Steam presser (iron)

N/A

SP

Hand stitch

N/A

HS

Eyelet machine

N/A

EY

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Fit Analysis Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Comments As this is a size 10/12 boy short I chose to try it on a model similar to these measurements. The reason I tired to try it on a human figure rather than a mannequin is because they have fullness where you would expect and a mannequin doesn’t so it wouldn’t show the fit as well.

The model complemented how comfortable the boy short was, it sat plush on the figure and felt as if she didn’t have anything on. The waist was a comfortable tension and the leg sat at a nice height around the leg and bum.

I did notice around the leg where I had applied toe two needle cover stitch, where I had turned the hem up slightly more than 12mm it didn’t sit flat against the figure and looked like it had ‘rolled’ the fabric.

Also, I thought that maybe the gusset width was a little too much as it came down lower than the area it was supposed to.

Overall, I am very pleased with the outcome of this garment. I think the tension of the elastic is very good, the construction is almost perfect and the fit it good. There is a little bit of room for improvement, next time I would only use a 10mm hem allowance to avoid that ‘rolled’ fabric look at the leg. Also, i think i would make the gusset 2mm less in width to see if that was even more comfortable.

Megan Blakemore

Pattern Drafting Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Comments When adapting the size 10/12 boy short I started by squaring off all my pattern pieces to ensure that the corners met. I then read all the necessary information and added seam allowance. When doing a sample of the cover stitch i decided that 10mm worked better than the 12mm SA onthe leg so i took off 2mm along the leg SA and added a 10mm SA instead.

The gusset seam allowance on the leg said 6mm SA which didn’t correspond to the front and back leg SA so i usd 10mm here too.

Once I had added all my SA I measured the seams to make sure that each seam would sit flush against each other, I did notice a big difference in the gusset CB to the boy short CB gusset seam, so i added the gusset which created a sharper curve but fitted better together.

When I was happy with the adjustments to my patterns I traced them onto card with all the information and cut them out. I then lay my fabric flat on the table using fabric weights, i traced around my pattern pieces making sure that the grain line followed the one on the fabric. I also adapted the pattern pieces to cut as a whole rather then cutting on the fold as I find this to be more accurate.

Megan Blakemore

Construction Analysis

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

Boy short

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Comments I do feel that the construction of my garments are qute good, I am very careful when drafting patterns ensuring I am using card pattern pieces, weights for my fabric and sharp scissors. I also add notches to use as reference points and when sewing elastic i measure my garments and use a pin and quartering method to apply equal tension across the garment.

When looking at the boy shorts, there isn’t much to comment on. I bagged out the CF and CB gusset which looks very neat, however there is a slight gather in the CB seam but it is consistent and equal so it doesn’t look noticable or bad it looks as though it is supposed to be there.

My side seams side very flush and the 1 needle over lock really tidies up the raw edge.

As I have never used a cover stitch before for my hem I decided to toile it, I found it quite easy to use you just had to concentrate and take it slow, you can see in some areas of the boy short the fabric started to roll slightly which looks messy and something I could change if I were to re-create these boyshorts.

I am very happy with the tension of the elastic, I used a pin and quartering method which meant the elastic was equal and consistent the whole way around, I have added just enough the make the boy shorts look slightly better than they already do.

Therefore, I am quite happy with the outcome of this garment.

Megan Blakemore

Garment Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB

Size Range

Megan Blakemore

10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Design Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh

Size Range

MRB

10-12

S/S 15

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

B

C

E

D A

Ref.

Fabric/Component

Description

Position

Composition /Colour

All over repeat lace

CF CF side panels

White All over reapeat Rigid, laminated lace Mecahnical stretch

Powermesh

CB

White 30% stretch

A

B

Knicker elastic

Waistline Hem line

White Picot edge 40% stretch

Hook and eye fastening

CB

White Double Hook and eye fastening

Adjustable suspender straps

CF CB

White elastic 20% stretch

C

D

E

Megan Blakemore

Supplier

Cost

Pattern Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Season

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Ref.

1 of 3

2 of 3

Garment Type Suspender belt

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB

Size Range

Pieces

Name

CF

10-12

ACD

S/S 15

Range Division Date

Quantity

06/02/2015

Comments

MRB

Cut 1

6mm SA

CF Side

MRB

Cut 1 pair Rigid lace

6mm SA

CB

MRB

Cut 1 pair 6mm SA powermesh

3 of 3

Megan Blakemore

Measurement Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

C

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh

Size Range

MRB

A

F

B

10-12

D

S/S 15

Season

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

J

06/02/2015

G

E

I

H

Ref.

Measurement Description

Size in MM unless stated

A

CF waistline

56.4cm

B

CF side seam

129mm

C

Side seam

69mm

D

CB waistline

40mm

E

CF depth

80mm

F

CF side depth

112mm

G

CB depth

100mm

H

CF suspender straps

142mm

I

CB suspender straps

182mm

J

Hook & eye depth

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Op. No.

S/A

1

6mm

2 3

6mm

4 5

6mm

6 7

6mm

8 9

6mm

10 11

16

Operation Description

10-12

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Machine No.

Run on elastic at CF hem

LS

Run back elastic

3Z

Join CF to CF side seam x2

LS

Plough seam to CB, stabilize seam. x2

Tw

Join CF side to CB x2

LS

Plough seam to CF, stabilize seam. x2

Tw

Run on elastic at hem of CF side panels x2

LS

Run back elastic x2

3Z

Run on elastic at hem of CB side panels x2

LS

Run back elastic x2

3Z

LS

Run back elastic

3Z

Make up suspender straps x4

LS

10mm

Turn back and attach suspender straps

LS

6mm

Inster hook and eye at CB

13

15

Size Range

MRB

S/S 15

Run on elastic at waist

6mm

12

14

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh

Season

LS

Trim loose threads, insert label if necessary and secure elastics

Megan Blakemore

Machine Reference Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Machine Name

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh

Size Range

MRB

Stitch Sample

Reference Code

Lock Stitch

LS

Baste stitch

LS

3-Step Zig-zag

3Z

Zig-zag

Zi

Twin needle tape

T

Twin needle boning

TNB

Twin needle wire casing

TNW

1 needle overlock

1N OL

3 Thread overlocker

3O

4 Thread overlocker

4O

2 Needle cover stitch

2N OL

Steam presser (iron)

N/A

SP

Hand stitch

N/A

HS

Eyelet machine

N/A

10-12

EY

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Fit Analysis Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB

Size Range

10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Comments I tried my model on a size 10/12, I think the suspender belt was a very good fit. It wasn’t too tight and had just enough tension on the elastic to be comfortable on the body but also to stay secure on the figure.

I tried the hook and eyes on the loosest fastening meaning that when the garment is worn over time it can be tightened.

Finally, in regards to the suspender straps, i feel they are a very adequate length for the suspender belt.

They sit firmly against the figure, supporting the stockings and are at a comfortable position so that they don’t cause discomfort to the wearer.

Megan Blakemore

Pattern Drafting Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB

Size Range

10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Comments Like most of my pattern, for the size 10/12 suspender belt I started off by squaring off all the pattern edges. I then added all the important information that was needed; name, date, garment, pattern piece, cuts needed, material etc...

After doing that I started to apply all my seam allowance, being accurate and careful with the pattern pieces so that when i measured them I would see any discrepancies in the measurements and could adjust them.

The main adjustment I had to apply to the suspender belt was extending the hem on the front side panel and CB panel for seam allowance when applying the suspnder straps.

I also applied notches to my garments.

After doing that I copied my pattern blocks onto card with necessary grain lines, matched those up to my material I traced them off using weights to hold my fabric in place and a disposable pen to draw around the pattern.

Megan Blakemore

Construction Analysis

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB

Size Range

10-12

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type Suspender belt

Range Division Date

06/02/2015

Comments I do feel that the suspender belt is one of my worse garments in terms of construction.

First of all I applied the elastic to the CF hem which I thought was quite good as I used a pin and quartering technique to get it even. But also, because it’s rigid it doesn’t need that much tension, but just enough so that it sits flat and offers hang appeal.

I then lock stitched the CF to front side panel, i stabilized the seam but didn’t realise you had to continue the stabilizer tape to the bottom of the panel so I have had to do it in two sections.

I then joined the front side panel to the CB and stabilized the seam pressing it foreward.

The next step was applying the elastic, I did the waist all in one go, which I am quite happy with although I might have applied too much at the CF panel as it doesn’t lie flat.

I then applied it to the hem using the twisting technique, looking at the front side panels you can see a difference in the amount of tension I had applied here which doesn’t look that bad once on the figure.

Looking at the elastic on the CB panel, I think over all I have applied to much elastic as the garment has started to crinkle up slightly.

I am happy with the CB hook and eye insert as it is neat and even on both the left and right side of the garment.

I do think the suspender straps could be neater but over all I am fairly pleased with the garment although there is room for improvement in the future.

Megan Blakemore

Garment Specification Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Design No.

Size Range

Megan Blakemore

001

34B/10-12

Design Specification Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

Design No.

MRB

Size Range

001

34B/10-12

G

H

F

B

C

E

A D

Ref.

Fabric/Component

Description

Position

Composition /Colour

All over repeat lace

CF CF side panels Bottom cup CF Bottom cup side cup

White All over reapeat Rigid, laminated lace Mecahnical stretch

Powermesh

CB CB side panel

White 30% stretch

A

B

Knicker elastic

CB and underarm Hem line

White Picot edge 40% stretch

Hook and eye fastening

CB

White Double Hook and eye fastening

Adjustable suspender straps

CF CB

White elastic 20% stretch

Bone channel

All seams

White Plush side bone casing

C

D

E

F

Megan Blakemore

Supplier

Cost

Design Specification

Ref.

G

Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Supplier

Cost

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

Fabric/Component

Design No.

MRB

Description

001

Size Range

34B/10-12

Position

Composition /Colour

Scallop edge tulle embroidery

Top cup

White Tulle embroidery scallop lace edge

Wire casing

Cup seam lining

White Plush side Rigid for wire

H

Megan Blakemore

Measurement Specification Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

001

Design No.

Size Range

34B/10-12

J K

A I

L M

E

D

C

B

F

G

H N O

Ref.

Measurement Description

Size in MM unless stated

A

CF bridge width

22mm

B

CF length

280mm

C

CF seam length

205mm

D

CF side seam length

219mm

E

Side seam length

284mm

F

CB side seam length

265mm

G

CB length

20cm

H

Hem length

64cm

I

Underarm and CB length

206mm

J

Top cup depth

60mm

K

Top cup length

180mm

Megan Blakemore

Measurement Specification Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Ref.

Design No.

Size Range

Measurement Description

001

34B/10-12

Size in MM unless stated

L

Bottom cup depth

80mm

M

Bottom cup length

255mm

N

CB suspender strap length

20cm

O

CF suspendeer strap length

18cm

Megan Blakemore

Pattern Specification

Ref.

1 of 9

Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Quantity

Comments

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Design No.

Size Range

Pieces

Name

CF

CFSi

001

34B/10-12

ACD

MRB

MRB

Cut 1 on fold

Cut 1 pair

2 of 9

SP 3 of 9

Megan Blakemore

MRB

Cut 1 pair

5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat

5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat

5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat

Pattern Specification

Ref.

4 of 9

5 of 9

Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

Pieces

MRB

Design No.

001

Size Range

34B/10-12

Name

ACD

Quantity

CF Stabiliser

MRB

CBSi

MRB

Cut 1 pair on fold

CB

MRB

Cut 1 pair

6 of 9

Megan Blakemore

Cut 1 pair on fold

Comments 5mm SA Rigid denier

5mm SA Powermesh

5mm SA Powermesh

Pattern Specification

Ref.

7 of 9

8 of 9

Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

Pieces

MRB

Design No.

001

Size Range

34B/10-12

Name

ACD

Quantity

TCu

MRB

Cut 1 pair

CF BCu

MRB

Cut 1 pair

Si BCu

MRB

Cut 1 pair

9 of 9

Megan Blakemore

Comments

5mm SA Rigid tulle lace embroidery scallop edge

5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat

5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat

Garment Breakdown

Op. No. 1

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

5mm

5mm

4

Design No.

MRB

S/A

2 3

Season

Product No.

Size Range

001

34B/10-12

Operation Description

Machine No.

LS join bottom cup at OB seam X2

LS

Plough open & stabilise seam

Iron Tw

Join top cup to bottom cup at overbust seam X2

LS

Press down and stabilise seam X2

Iron Tw

5

5mm

Join CF side to CB x2

LS

6

5mm

Bag out CF with CF stabiliser, turn through

LS

7

3mm

Baste down the CF to CF denier stabiliser to support through construction

LS

8

5mm

Join CF to CF side seam X2

LS

9

5mm

Join CF side seam to side seam panel X2

LS

5mm

Join side seam to CB side seam X2

LS

5mm

Join CB side seam to CB seam X2

LS

Plough all seams open, except the side seam to CB side seam - press towards CF

Iron

10 11 12

Using bone casing tape and Tw machine, apply boning channels to seams

13 14

5mm

Run on elastic at underarm and CB

LS

Run back elastic

3Z

15 16 17 18

5mm

Tw

Insert cup into cradle using notches as a reference point

LS

Apply wire casing to seam pressing down in the process

Tw

Measure wire casing channels, take off 2cm to each measurement and cut boning to this length. Insert.

Hand

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown

Op. No.

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

S/A

Design No.

MRB

Size Range

001

34B/10-12

Operation Description Insert wire to wire casing, bar tack seal X2

19 20

Season

Product No.

5mm

Starting at CF hem and work outwards, run on elastic to hem, turn back a section, and run onto the next one

Machine No. LS LS

Run back elastic

3Z

10mm

Make up suspender straps, using the measurements as reference, X4

LS

23

5mm

Insert hook and eyes to CB

LS

24

10mm

Apply suspender straps to basque, shorter straps at CF and longer ones at CB, X4

LS

25

3mm

Baste down the CF to CF denier stabiliser to support through construction

LS

21 22

26

Trim all loose threads, insert label if necessary and straps if a design decision

Megan Blakemore

Machine Reference Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

Machine Name

Design No.

MRB

Size Range

Stitch Sample

LS

Baste stitch

LS

3-Step Zig-zag

3Z

Zig-zag

Zi

Twin needle tape

T

Twin needle boning Twin needle wire casing

TNB

1 needle overlock

1N OL

3 Thread overlocker

3O

4 Thread overlocker

4O

2 Needle cover stitch

2N OL

TNW

Steam presser (iron)

N/A

SP

Hand stitch

N/A

HS

N/A

34B/10-12

Reference Code

Lock Stitch

Eyelet machine

001

EY

Megan Blakemore

Fit Analysis Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Design No.

Size Range

001

34B/10-12

Comments I tried my basque on a 34B size 10/12 model as it would be worn by a human as opposed to a mannequin and will fill it better.

I firstly noticed that the basque came up slightly small on the model as it did on the mannequin, I fear this might be because I used a 6mm SA instead of 5mm. However, it stll did fit the model it just looked slightly tight in some areas.

When looking at the basque I first noticed that the hip tension on the left side was tighter than the right, this is because of my own fault I imagine even though I pinned and quartered it. Therefore I need to be more mindful of this in the future.

Looking at the cups, I thought these fitted the model really well, the overbust seam ran of the point of bust and the cup offered good coverage for the model. However, I did notice that the wire didn’t sit quite on the breast root. Also, I think my cups may have been to smal for the cradle which I didn’t realise until sewing which effects the top of the basque when worn, which you can see in the photos.

Finally, I fear my straps could do with being 20mm longer, my model is quite tall, however I fear they are a little too short even when at there longest.

Overally, it is generally quite a good fit for my model and I am pleased with the outcome.

Megan Blakemore

Pattern Drafting Product No.

001

Design No.

001

Season

S/S 15

Description

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Fabric Customer Designer

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

MRB

Size Range

34B/10-12

Comments To adapt my pattern block for the 34B 10/12 basque, i started off by squaring off all the patterns nad filling in lines where the print had missed some off. I then checked all my information on the pattern and started to add seam allowance a necessary (5mm on each seam, hem and around cup).

Once i had carefully added all the necessary seam allowance I then measured all the seams to ensure that they corresponded in order to make my seams flush when sewing the garment.

I was a couple of mm out here and there so I adjusted where necessary making sure that it didn’t change the next consecutive seam.

I did notice there was a large difference (10mm) in the top cup overbust seam to the bottom cup seam, however, I presumed this was for ease allowance when sewing as the bottom cup was a sharp curve.

I then measured my bottom cup around cup seam and the top cup to see if they would fit in the cradle. I added to top cup and bottom cup measurements together (153+177=232mm), i used the measurement to work out the difference in the cradle (232-229=3mm). Therefore I added 1,5mm to the buttom cup CF and underarm. Because i added 3mm to the top cup and they was already 10mm different I decided to add 1.5mm to the top cup as well to keep it more even.

Once i had adjusted my cup, I measured the wire to ensure it sat in the cradle with enough room for 6mm bar tack allowance and 5mm wire play. It didnt, there fore I extended the CF basque up 3mm for bar tack allowance. I then extended the underarm up 8mm (5mm for wire play, 3mm for bar tack allowance) and created a soft curve into the CF side panel seam, making sure I didn’t change the seam length as I would have to adjust all of them to then match.

Because I was doing a scallop edge lace top cup, I scanned my lace in black and white and worked out where my valleys and mountains were in order to place my top cup correctly, making sure that the left was symmetrical to the right. I traced around my top cup pattern piece in order to create a pattern using the lace i had which made it easier when cutting out the fabric.

These were the only adjustments necessary for my basque pattern, therefore I copied them onto card with all the necessary information to make it easier when cutting my fabric.

When cutting fabric it is essential to make sure the pattern pieces follow the correct grain like and main stretch. For example, the laminated rigid lace has a slight mechanical stretch one way and is more rigid the other. Therefore, when laying down my fabric I made sure to put my lace pattern pieces on the rigid. However, power mesh needs the most stretch across the body.

Megan Blakemore

Construction Analysis

Season

S/S 15

White lace basque with scallop edge top cup

Garment Type

Basque

Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh

Range Division Date

15/02/15

Product No.

001

Description Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Design No.

Size Range

001

34B/10-12

Comments I do feel that the construction of my garments are qute good, I am very careful when drafting patterns ensuring I am using card pattern pieces, weights for my fabric and sharp scissors. I also add notches to use as reference points and when sewing elastic i measure my garments and use a pin and quartering method to apply equal tension across the garment.

However, out of all my construction technqiues I think that the basque is one of the worse garments, I am pleased with how the top cup is flush against the top of the CF, and the bottom cup doesn’t have any puckers in the fabric even though I had to ease it in quite a considerable amount.

When attached the seams together they all saat flush, which might have taken a couple of goes but I was happy with the out come in the end and it meant that it didn’t effect the fit of my garment.

Once I had done my seams, i pressed them open (except for one) and then applied the bone casing which was quite neat. Apart from the right CB bone casing channel, I’m not sure as to why it has came out the way it has, it could be due to tension or the bobbin running out and in an ideal world I shouldv’’e re-done the channel but instead top stitched over it on the lock stitch machine as I didn’t want to ruin my garment further by unpicking it.

I’m not sure if the tension is quite right on the laminated lace panels, however, I think I have added too much tension on the CB powermesh pieces.

Also, somewhere between sewing the garment to cutting out the fabric the one CB is shorter than the other, which obviously isn’t good.

Finally, the way in which I turned the elastic hem made the points of the basque very thick with fabric and caused the needle to break when attaching my suspender straps so next time I would re-think this method.

Over all, it could be a lot worse, therefore I am quite pleased with it.

Megan Blakemore

Garment Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 34B

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Design Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

Ref.

Fabric/Component

MRB

Size Range 34B

Description Powermesh

Position CB

A

B

All over repeat, rigid CF eyelash lace Cradle CF underlayer

White Rigid All over repeat Eyelash edge

Underband

White Plain 30% stretch 10mm

Knicker elastic

Armhole Top CB

White Plain 30% stretch

Strapping elastic

Straps

White Plain 20% stretch

Hook and eye fastening

CB

White 28mm

D

E

Megan Blakemore

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Cost

Supplier

ÂŁ3 per metre

White 40% stretch

Underband elastic

C

F

Composition /Colour

Season

Sakae Lace HK

ÂŁ0.50

Design Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer Ref.

Fabric/Component

MRB

Size Range 34B

Description

Position

Composition /Colour

Denier

CF Cradle

White Rigid

Laminated lace

CF underlayer

White Rigid All over repeat Eyelash edge

Rings and sliders

Straps

White Plastic

A

B

C

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Supplier

Cost ÂŁ3 per metre

Pattern Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

Ref.

1 of 4

Pieces

MRB

Size Range 34B Name

Centre front bridge

Cradle

ACD

3 of 4

Megan Blakemore

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Quantity

Comments

CF

Cut 1 on fold Lace Cut 1 on fold Denier

5mm SA Bag out

CR

Cut 1 pair Lace Cut 1 pair Denier

5mm SA

CB

Cut 1 pair 5mm SA Powermesh

2 of 4

Centre back

Season

Pattern Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

Ref.

4 of 4

Pieces

MRB

Size Range 34B Name

CF underlayer

Megan Blakemore

ACD

CF U

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Quantity

Cut 1 on fold Rigid laminated lace

Comments

5mm SA

Measurement Specification Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

I

G

H

J

A D

E

B C

F

Ref.

Measurement Description

Size in MM unless stated

A

CF bridge length

26mm

B

CF bridge depth

70mm

C

Underband

58.5cm

D

Side seam

78mm

E

Wire casing

21cm

F

CB length

28mm

G

Strap length

46cm

H

Unlderlayer depth

23cm

I

Neckline length

15cm

J

Side, underarm and CB top

39.3cm

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

Op. No.

MRB

S/A

1

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Operation Description

Machine No.

Prepare laminated lace

Heat press

Bag out CF bridge

LS

Cut corners, turn through and rolle the seam, press flat.

Iron

Bag out cradle

LS

Cut corners, turn through and rolle the seam, press flat.

Iron

Join CF bridge to cradle at seam, X2

LS

7

Plough seam open

Iron

8

Stabilize seam

Tw

9

Apply wire casing to around cup X2

10

Insert wire

2

5mm

3 4

5mm

5 6

5mm

Tw

11

3mm

Bar tack CF bridge of wire casing X2

LS

12

3mm

Baste stitch outer cradle to underlayer cradle, applying ease between notches

LS

5mm

Join cradle, cradle underlayer and wing at side seam X2

LS

14

Press seam foreward

Iron

15

Stabilize seam

Tw

Run on elastic at underband

LS

Run back elastic

3Z

Run on elastic at neckline

LS

13

16

5mm

17 18

5mm

Megan Blakemore

Garment Breakdown Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

Op. No.

S/A

19 20

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Machine No.

Run on elastic at side, underarm and CB X2

LS

Run back elastic X2

3Z

10mm Make up adjustable straps X2

LS

5mm

24

26

Operation Description

Garment Type

3Z

23

25

Size Range 34B

S/S 15

Run back elastic

21 22

MRB

Season

5mm

Apply straps to CF using rings x2, apply to CB with slight tension X2

LS

Run back elastic straps at CB X2

3Z

Insert hook and eye to

L

Trim all loose threads

Megan Blakemore

Machine Reference Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

Machine Name

MRB

Size Range 34B

Stitch Sample

Reference Code

Lock Stitch

LS

Baste stitch

LS

3-Step Zig-zag

3Z

Zig-zag

Z

Twin needle tape

T

Twin needle boning

TNB

Twin needle wire casing

TNW

1 needle overlock

1N OL

3 Thread overlocker

3O

4 Thread overlocker

4O

2 Needle cover stitch

2N OL

Steam presser (iron)

N/A

SP

Hand stitch

N/A

HS

Eyelet machine

N/A

EY

Megan Blakemore

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Fit Analysis Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Comments I am very happy with the over all fit of this garment, I tried it ona model who is a 34B sze 10/12 and complimented me on how comfortable it was!

First of all I will start by saying that the CF sits very flush against the skin, I do think it is 3mm too big, on the toile it was fine but some how I managed to add 3mm on the final garment so I would improve that next time.

Also, i think the cradle depth could do with being slightly bigger, because I only allowed for 5mm SA and used a 10mm elastic! However, I do still think it looks good and fits well.

The wire casing sits along the breast root wich the model said was really comfortable.

I did adjust the neckline slightly from the first toile and made it slightly more curvascious, which meant the elastic worked better on the final and it was so harsh around the neck. I do think i could even curve it a little bit more in the centre.

You’ll notice on the first picture there is a bit of side boob which I would improve on next time, because I drafted this part on the stand, I didn’t allow for fullness on a human model.

I am happy with the CB horseshoe shape and the underband as I did adjust this on the pattern slightly to make the curve softer.

Megan Blakemore

Pattern Drafting Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Comments To draft this pattern I used the 34B padded balcony bra as my foundation and an MS20 wire. I started off by adjust the cradle so that instead of having a visible wire, it was similar to a 34B cradle.

To do this, I extended the original down 20mm at the side seam, i followed this along the cradle to the CF adding 20mm to create the soft curve. The CF bridge was still quite short so I compared it to a bra I had similar to the design I was doing and decided to extend the CF bridge up 25mm at the top. I created a seam line similar to the bra I was looking at.

After I was happy with my cradle, I started to redraft the wing to meet the measurements of the cradle depth, I extended it down 20mm and instead of having a straight CB I created a horseshoe as I thought it suited my style more so.

To begin with, on my first toile I accidentally made the wing 20mm too small! Which meant the hook and eye didn’t fit either. Therefore, I measured the length of my hook and eye to redraft the CB and I also added 20mm to the CB pattern.

To double check my cradle, I used an XY axes to draw around my MS20 wire, i then measured the wire and added 5mm wire play and 6mm bar tack allowance. I redrafted the cradle to match this measurement without adjusting the wing.

I started off doing the underlayer on paper, I then decided it wasn’t going to work and modeled on the stand. To do this I used a piece of calico a similar size to what I thought the patern piece my be, I pinned the calico at the CF and worked my way around the cup and armhole applying a dart going over the bust. I shaped the neckline unpinned the pattern and draw around it. I used the cradle shape as a guide to draft the underband of the underlayer and tidied up the darts.

I reshaped the neckline to create a soft curve.

I then added all the necessary seam allowance and measured the seams to ensure all the seams did correspond and would sit flush when sewing.

I was happy with the outcome of my pattern and decided to draft it onto card and cut my fabric out.

Megan Blakemore

Construction Analysis

Product No. 001

Design No.

001

Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer

MRB

Size Range 34B

Season

S/S 15

Garment Type

2 Layered Bra

Range Division Date

14/03/15

Comments I didn’t find this garment particularly hard to construct as I wrote a method of make before I went in, also because I did a toile it meant I had over come any problems that might occur in the construction of my final.

I am a bit disappointed that the CF came out 3mm bigger on the final garment as this did effect the fit slightly.

When sewing the underlayer onto the cradle I had to add ease, on my first toile I didn’t use notches which meant that I had a couple of puckers in the garment that I managed to avoid on my final.

I am happy with the outcome of the elastic on the underband as it has a nice hang appeal and sits flat on the cradle and the powernet has enough to spring the wire. Looking at the elastic on the side of the garment, I’m sure sure if I’ve added too much or not enough? However, in comparison to my toile I do think it is a lot better! I think the neckline has the right amount of tension and I am happy with the over all outcome and shape.

When applying my straps they didn’t look as neat on my toile as they do on my final which I am pleased about and I reshaped the back slightly before appling the elastic to the CB because the horseshoe shape wasn’t quite creating the right effect.

One thing I would consider changing is the laminated lace, I am not happy with this as the lace was quite delicate and now has a really starchy look and is very rigid.

Finally, the most important thing out of everything was that th ehook and eye fitted on the CB! Overall, I am very happy with the construction of this garment even if there is a bit of room for improvement.

Megan Blakemore