Construction Rotation
FSHN 2100 Megan Blakemore Contour Fashion
Megan Blakemore
TABLE of CONTENTS 34B Wired balcony bra Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis
Size 10 34B Basque Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis
Two Layered 34B Bra
Size 10 Brazilian Brief Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis
Size 10 Boy short Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis
Size 10 Suspender belt Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis
Megan Blakemore
Garment specification Design specification Pattern specification Measurements Method of construction Machine references Fit analysis Pattern drafting analysis Construction analysis
Garment Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam. MRB
Size Range 34B
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Padded bra
Range Division Date
29/01/2015
Design Specification
Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
Garment Type Padded bra
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Range Division Date
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.
Size Range 34B
MRB
S/S 15
29/01/2015
D
E
F
C
G
H
A I
B
Ref.
A
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
Jacquadronic all over repeat lace
CF bridge Side cradle Outer CF cup Outer side cup
White Laminated - rigid Slight mechanical stretch
Denier
CF bridge Side cradle
White Rigid
Lace trim
Neckline of outer CF cup and outer side cup
White Rigid Lace edge trim
Elastic strapping
Left and right strap
White % stretch
Bow embroidery
CF CF strap position
Rings and sliders
Strap adjusters
B
C
D
E
F
Megan Blakemore
Supplier
Cost
Ref.
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Padding
Inner CF cup Inner side cup
White Laminated foam
Powermesh
Wings
White % stretch
Hook & eye fastening
CB
G
H
I
Composition /Colour
Megan Blakemore
Adjustable Double hook and eyes White
Supplier
Cost
Pattern Specification
Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
Garment Type Padded bra
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer Ref.
1 of 7
2 of 7
3 of 7
4 of 7
5 of 7
Pieces
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam. MRB
Size Range 34B Name
CF Bridge
Cradle
Side inner cup
Side outer cup
CF inner cup
Megan Blakemore
S/S 15
ACD
Range Division Date Quantity
29/01/2015
Comments
MRB
Cut 1 pair lace Cut 1 pair denier
5mm SA on straight edge 6mm SA on around cup
MRB
Cut 1 pair lace Cut 1 pair denier
5mm SA on straight edge 6mm SA on around cup
Cut 1 pair foam
No SA on neckline, underarm and overbust 6mm SA on around cup
Cut 1 pair rigid laminated lace
No SA on neckline. 5mm SA on underarm & overbust 6mm SA on around cup
Cut 1 pair foam
No SA on neckline, underarm and overbust 6mm SA on around cup
MRB
MRB
MRB
Pattern Specification
Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
Garment Type Padded bra
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer Ref.
6 of 7
7 of 7
Pieces
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam. MRB
Size Range 34B Name
CF outer cup
Wing
Megan Blakemore
S/S 15
ACD
MRB
MRB
Range Division Date Quantity
Cut 1 pair rigid laminated lace
29/01/2015
Comments No SA on neckline. 5mm SA on underarm & overbust 6mm SA on around cup
Cut 1 pair powermesh 5mm SA
Measurement Specification
Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
Garment Type Padded bra
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.
Size Range 34B
MRB
S/S 15
Range Division Date
29/01/2015
I
E B
C
G H
D
J
F
A
Measurement Description
Ref.
Size in MM unless stated
A
Underband measurement (whole length)
67.4cm
B
Side seam depth
57mm
C
Wire casing around length
190mm
D
Overbust length
125mm
E
Neck line length
175mm
F
CF bridge depth
28mm
CF bridge length
13mm
H
Wing length
148mm
I
Strap lengths
47cm
J
CB length
28mm
G
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer Op. No.
3
Size Range 34B
MRB
S/A
1 2
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Padded bra
Range Division Date
Operation Description
29/01/2015
Machine No.
Butt join foam at over bust seam X2
3Z
3mm
Bag out CF bridge at top and bottom, turn through to hide raw edge
LS
5mm
LS over bust seam on outer cups X2
LS
Stabilize seam open to offer more support and a decorative touch X2
Tw
LS lace edge trim to neckline of outer cups X2
LS
4 5 6
Over lock neckline of inner foam cups to tidy raw edge and prevent discolouring X2
7
Baste together inner and outer cups at around cup edge X2
8 9
Baste together inner and outer side cradle X2
5mm
Join side wing and cradle together X2
LS
Stabilise seam towards CF X2
Tw
Run on elastic at underband X2
LS
Run back elastic at underband X2
3Z
6mm
LS CF bridge to CF cup edge at notch
LS
6mm
LS cradle to cups X2
LS
5mm
Run on elastic at top of wing, cradle and underarm
LS
Run back elastic
3Z
5mm
12 13 14 15
LS
3mm
10 11
1/N O/L
16 17
Ha/LS
Make up straps X2
18
6mm
Attach wire casing to around cup seam, turning all of the underband raw edge inside the wire casing
Megan Blakemore
LS
Tw
Garment Breakdown
Op. No.
S/A
21 22 23
Machine No.
Push through wires into wire casing X2
19 20
Operation Description
3mm
5mm
Seal wire casing with bar tack stitch X3
Insert hook and eye to CB and LS
LS
LS straps at notch and CF X2
LS
Trim loose threads
Megan Blakemore
Machine Reference Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Machine Name
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam.
Size Range 34B
MRB
Stitch Sample
Reference Code
Lock Stitch
LS
Gatherered stitch
GS
3-Step Zig-zag
3Z
Zig-zag
Z
Twin needle tape
T
Twin needle boning
TNB
Twin needle wire casing
TNW
Baby over locker
BO
3 Thread overlocker
3O
4 Thread overlocker
4O
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
Eyelet machine
N/A
S/S 15
Garment Type Padded bra
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Season
EY
Megan Blakemore
Range Division Date
29/01/2015
Fit Analysis
Product No. 001
Design No.
Garment Type Padded bra
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam. MRB
S/S 15
Season
001
Size Range 34B
Range Division Date
29/01/2015
Comments Natural
Padded Bra
I tried this style on my house mate who, depending on brand, wears a size 34B/32C. First of all I noticed this style was quite small over the volume of breast tissue, she pointed out that she felt as though she was going to come out of the bra and constantly be tucking herself in and giving her this “monoboob” look when wearing a T-shirt. In addition to this, you can see in some of these photo’s, her breast was coming out at the side of the cup. Secondly, the wire isn’t sitting on the breast root trace but on the breast tissue which is also obviou to the photosgraphs, but the model again pointed this out. I do think the CF sits quite nicely on the figure, when moving it was starting to come away from the body slightly, but with the correct breast root trace and wire position this could be changed. As I started to look around the back, the hook and eyes were on the second hook which the model found most comfortable, again this could be down to the different in size 32C and 34B.
Megan Blakemore
200
200
210
174
178
182
forward rather then sitting up, i tightened the straps to counteract this motion which helped a lot but the model found them uncomfortable and also left a red mark. From comparing the golden triangle measurements you can see that the bra has done its job by pulling the boobs together and up quite considerably. Therefore, I think that with a bit more work and pattern development I could make the cup fit on the model better. Overall, I have found this bra very poorly fitting with a lot of room for development. I do think this is one of my best constructions so far as it is very neat.
Pattern Drafting
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam. MRB
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Padded bra
Range Division Date
29/01/2015
Comments To adapt my 34B balcony bra I started off by writing all the important information on the patter piece; date, initial, garment, pattern piece, how many cut pieces I needed, fabric, what pattern piece it was and out of how many (3 of 7 for example), i also wrote seam allowances I needed to add, what the seam was in the area (overbust, around cup, side seam and so on) and finally, grain lines. After adding all the information I started applying my seam allowance in order to measure the seams after and make sure they were all flush. The cradle was 3mm too big for the cup, therefore I added 1.5mm on either side of the cups on the around edge to make sure it was even and symmetrical. I then drew around my MS20 wire using an X and Y axes, I measured the outer line of the wire against the cradle to see if it would fit. I then added wire play and bar tack allowance (8mm at underarm, 5mm for wire play and 3mm for bar tack and 3mm bar tack aat the CF). Finally, I traced my final pattern pieces onto card to ensure they were accurtate, I also applied notches for reference points.
Megan Blakemore
Construction Analysis
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description 34B padded balcony bra. Fabric Customer Designer
Rigid, laminated lace, denier, powermesh and foam. MRB
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Padded bra
Range Division Date
29/01/2015
Comments I think the construction of my 34b balcony bra is very neat, I am happy with the over all outcome of the bra even if the fit isn’t that great. Firsty, I will start by saying that butt joining the foam was quite difficult as it has a slightly curve and you really have to push them together, I did re-do the foam a couple of times to get it perfect. I then LS joined the outer cup, because the lace was rigid and laminated I managed to stabilize the seam without having any problems with the tension. I did have a bit of issues when joining the up to the CF bridge because it kept movin and pulling the cups closer together leaving less room in the CF which would effect the fit. This did take me a while to get right. ALso, I struggled when applying the wire casing to the bra because I have never used a design with a visible wire, but over all I think it look quite neat for my first time. I am very pleased with the tension of my elastic as I do struggle when doing elastic on garments. they are both an equal tension and enough to spring the wire but sit comfortable against the body as well as adding hang appeal. Finally, I did have a problem with the wire, even though I measured them and adjusted the pattern to fit the wire, there doesn’t seam to be a lot of room for wire play which I could improve in the future.
Megan Blakemore
Garment Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015
Megan Blakemore
Design Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 A
D C
B
Ref.
A
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
Tulle embroidery with scallop edge
CF
White Tulle embroidery Scallop edge Mechanical stretch
Cotton jersey
Gusset inner
White
Powermesh
CB/Side panel Gusset outer
White 30% stretch
Knicker elastic
Waistline Left/right side panel Gusset
White 40% stretch
B
C
D
Megan Blakemore
Supplier
Cost
Pattern Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Ref.
1 of 4
2 of 4
Pieces
Name
CF
ACD
Quantity
Comments
MRB
Cut 1 pair
CB Side
MRB
Cut 1 pair 6mm SA Powermesh
Gusset inner
MRB
Cut 1 Cotton jersey
Gusset outer
MRB
Cut 1 6mm SA Powermesh
3 of 4
4 of 4
Megan Blakemore
No SA on side- scallop edge 6mm on on waist and CF
6mm SA
Measurement Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
Season
001
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015
C
D
H
E
A B
I J
F
K G
Ref.
Measurement Description
Size in MM unless stated
A
CF lace panel depth
180mm
B
CF lace panel length
240mm
C
CF lace panel waist
280cm
D
Side width
60mm
E
CF side panel length
58mm
F
Gusset length outer
108mm
G
Gusset width
61mm
H
CB width
260mm
I
CB depth
170mm
J
CB leg length
248mm
K
82mm
CB gusset
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Op. No.
S/A
1
5mm
Baste stitch CF seam for security, followed by overlocking the raw edge.
LS 1N O/L
2
5mm
Baste stitch CB seam for security, followed by overlocking the raw edge.
LS 1N O/L
Overlock CF inner gusset
1N O/L
6mm
Bag out CB gusset using lockstitch for security, overlock raw edge
LS 1N O/L
6mm
Run on elastic at leg x2
3 4 5 6 7
6mm
8
Operation Description
Machine No.
LS
Run back elastic x2
3Z
Insert gusset ‘V’ to CF lace panel
LS
Overlock side seam raw edge
1N OL
9
6mm
Insert left side seam to lace panel x1
LS
10
6mm
Run on elastic at waist starting from open seam
LS
11
Run back elastic at waist
3Z
12
Trim all loose threads & inster label at CB if necessary
Megan Blakemore
Machine Reference Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015
Machine Name
Stitch Sample
Reference Code
Lock Stitch
LS
Baste stitch
LS
3-Step Zig-zag
3Z
Zig-zag
Zi
Twin needle tape
T
Twin needle boning
TNB
Twin needle wire casing
TNW
1 needle overlock
1N OL
3 Thread overlocker
3O
4 Thread overlocker
4O
2 Needle cover stitch
2N OL
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
Eyelet machine
N/A
EY
Megan Blakemore
Fit Analysis Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015
Comments As this is a size 10/12 brazilian I chose to try it on a model similar to these measurements. The reason I tired to try it on a human figure rather than a mannequin is because they have fullness where you would expect and a mannequin doesn’t so it wouldn’t show the fit as well. I think the fit of this knicker is very good, the tension on the elastic is almost perfect and it sits plus against the skin. The waistline is at a good position on the figure and the leg comes up at a nice angle over the bum so that it is comfortable but still ha that brazilian shaping. I do feel that the CF could be slightly bigger as it seemed to distort the tulle embroidery around the leg and the model mentioned that it felt a bit sharp around this area, meaning it was tight and applying pressure around the body. The over all construction of this is, I feel, very good. I am pleased with the finish and placement of the lace. Because my fabric was an embroidery I had to use a right and wrong side of the fabric to ensure they matched up on the garment. The only thing I would mention is that on the left side seam where the lace meets the powermesh, I didn’t overlay it as much as I should’ve which iI did do on the opposite side.
Megan Blakemore
Pattern Drafting Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Comments To adapt my size 10/12 brazilian brief I starte off by squaring off all my pattern pieces using a ruler and 3mm pencil. I then read all the information on my pattern pieces and added seam allowance where necessary. After adding my seam allowance I had to apply grain lines. I then went onto measuring my seams to make sure they would all corrsepond and sit flush when constructing the garment. When looking at the measurements I noticed the CB was 12mm bigger than the CB gusset seam, therefore, I tapered in the surve on the leg to meet the CB gusset seam. Also, because I was using a galloon edge tulle embroidery for the CF of the brazilian, I had to do a scan of the embroidery to work out where the peaks and valleys were in order to cut the pattern piece so that it was symmetrical when sewing. However, because my tulle had a right and wrong side and wasnt an exact repeat pattern I had to use this when sewing in order to get the line of symmetry. Other than that I didn’t have to make any adaptations to this pattern, however, I decided to eliminate the side seam and join the side to the CB and the seam on the pattern pieces as I thought this would look nicer on my design. I then followed the grain lines against the fabric, ensuring that the stretch was the correct way and they were equal against the selvedge so the fabric didn’t twist.
Megan Blakemore
Construction Analysis
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description White, stretch and rigid tulle embroidery brazilian Garment Type Brazilian brief Scallop edge tulle embroidery, powermesh and jersey Range Fabric Customer Division Designer Size Range 10-12 Date MRB 06/02/2015 Comments I am qutie happy with the standard of construction for this brazilian knicker. When sewing, I tried a few techniques out on the fabric in order to decided what was better for the material. For example, when joining the CF i managed to get the embroidery symmetrical which I was thrilled about even if it is a wrong and right side. Once I had joined the panels I had to decide whether I wanted to stabilize the seam or over lock it. After doing a couple of samples, I decided the stabilizer tape was too heavy for the material and the tension wasn’t right so it puckered the material. Therefore I over locked the seam and top stitch it down. I also used over lock stitch on other raw edges to kep it consistent. I was pleased with bagging out the gusset, using the pin and quartering method ensured my seams sat flush and I didn’t ave any over hang. When joining the CF to the side seams you can see that one is hanging over slightly more than the other which is disappointing for me but i didn’t noticed until I had applied and turned back all my elastic - therefore I could improve this next time. I am very happy with the tension of the elastic as it is not my forte, however, after a lot of perseverance I don’t think it could’ve gone better. Therefore, I am very happy with the final of this garment, there is a bit of room for improvement but for my first brazilian brief I think it is constructed well.
Megan Blakemore
Garment Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 10-12
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Design Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 10-12
A
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
E C
D
B
Ref.
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
Powermesh
CF CB Gusset outer
White 40% stretch
Cotton jersey
Gusset inner
White
Knicker elastic
Waistline
White Picot edge 25% stretch
Cover stitch
Left leg Right leg
White thread
A
B
C
D
Three step zig zag
Waistline
E
F
Megan Blakemore
White thread
Supplier
Cost
Pattern Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
Ref.
1 of 3
MRB
Size Range 10-12
Pieces
Name
CF
ACD
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Quantity
Comments
MRB
Cut 1 6mm SA on waistline on fold Powermesh and SS 12mm hem allowance
CB
MRB
Cut 1 6mm SA on on fold waistline Powermesh and SS 12mm hem allowance
Gusset inner and Gusset outer
MRB
Cut 1 on fold Powermesh Cut 1 on fold Cotton jersey
2 of 3
3 of 3
Megan Blakemore
6mm SA on CF and CB seam 12mm hem allowance
Measurement Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 10-12
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
G
B C
F
A H
D
I
E
Ref.
Season
Measurement Description
Size in MM unless stated
A
CF length
B
CF waist length
C
Side seam length
13.7cm
D
CF leg length
21.2cm
E
CF gusset width
85mm
F
CB length
20.9cm
G
CB waist length
40.1cm
H
CB leg length
21.1cm
I
CB gusset width
127mm
Gusset length
120mm
16.5cm 38cm
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No.
1
S/A
6mm
2 3
6mm
4
7 8 9
Size Range 10-12
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Operation Description
Machine No.
Baste stitch, bag out CB gusset to secure the seam before overlocking.
LS
Overlock conceal CB gusset
1/N O/L
Baste stitch, bag out CF gusset
LS
Overlock conceal CF gusset
1/N O/L
Turn through gusset, right side facing
5 6
MRB
Season
12mm Turn hem 12mm using a two needle cover stitch x2 6mm
Baste stitch join side seam before over lock stitch x1
6mm
Run on elastic at waist starting at the open side seam Run back elastic
2/N C/S
LS 1/N O/L LS
3Z
10
6mm Baste other side seam followed by over lock stitch x1
11
Trim all loose threads & inster label at CB if necessary
Megan Blakemore
LS 1/N O/L
Machine Reference Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
Machine Name
MRB
Size Range 10-12
Stitch Sample
Reference Code
Lock Stitch
LS
Baste stitch
LS
3-Step Zig-zag
3Z
Zig-zag
Z
Twin needle tape
T
Twin needle boning
TNB
Twin needle wire casing
TNW
1 needle overlock
1N OL
3 Thread overlocker
3O
4 Thread overlocker
4O
2 Needle cover stitch
2N OL
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
Eyelet machine
N/A
EY
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Fit Analysis Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Comments As this is a size 10/12 boy short I chose to try it on a model similar to these measurements. The reason I tired to try it on a human figure rather than a mannequin is because they have fullness where you would expect and a mannequin doesn’t so it wouldn’t show the fit as well. The model complemented how comfortable the boy short was, it sat plush on the figure and felt as if she didn’t have anything on. The waist was a comfortable tension and the leg sat at a nice height around the leg and bum. I did notice around the leg where I had applied toe two needle cover stitch, where I had turned the hem up slightly more than 12mm it didn’t sit flat against the figure and looked like it had ‘rolled’ the fabric. Also, I thought that maybe the gusset width was a little too much as it came down lower than the area it was supposed to. Overall, I am very pleased with the outcome of this garment. I think the tension of the elastic is very good, the construction is almost perfect and the fit it good. There is a little bit of room for improvement, next time I would only use a 10mm hem allowance to avoid that ‘rolled’ fabric look at the leg. Also, i think i would make the gusset 2mm less in width to see if that was even more comfortable.
Megan Blakemore
Pattern Drafting Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Comments When adapting the size 10/12 boy short I started by squaring off all my pattern pieces to ensure that the corners met. I then read all the necessary information and added seam allowance. When doing a sample of the cover stitch i decided that 10mm worked better than the 12mm SA onthe leg so i took off 2mm along the leg SA and added a 10mm SA instead. The gusset seam allowance on the leg said 6mm SA which didn’t correspond to the front and back leg SA so i usd 10mm here too. Once I had added all my SA I measured the seams to make sure that each seam would sit flush against each other, I did notice a big difference in the gusset CB to the boy short CB gusset seam, so i added the gusset which created a sharper curve but fitted better together. When I was happy with the adjustments to my patterns I traced them onto card with all the information and cut them out. I then lay my fabric flat on the table using fabric weights, i traced around my pattern pieces making sure that the grain line followed the one on the fabric. I also adapted the pattern pieces to cut as a whole rather then cutting on the fold as I find this to be more accurate.
Megan Blakemore
Construction Analysis
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White, stretch boy short Powermesh and cotton jersey Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
Boy short
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Comments I do feel that the construction of my garments are qute good, I am very careful when drafting patterns ensuring I am using card pattern pieces, weights for my fabric and sharp scissors. I also add notches to use as reference points and when sewing elastic i measure my garments and use a pin and quartering method to apply equal tension across the garment. When looking at the boy shorts, there isn’t much to comment on. I bagged out the CF and CB gusset which looks very neat, however there is a slight gather in the CB seam but it is consistent and equal so it doesn’t look noticable or bad it looks as though it is supposed to be there. My side seams side very flush and the 1 needle over lock really tidies up the raw edge. As I have never used a cover stitch before for my hem I decided to toile it, I found it quite easy to use you just had to concentrate and take it slow, you can see in some areas of the boy short the fabric started to roll slightly which looks messy and something I could change if I were to re-create these boyshorts. I am very happy with the tension of the elastic, I used a pin and quartering method which meant the elastic was equal and consistent the whole way around, I have added just enough the make the boy shorts look slightly better than they already do. Therefore, I am quite happy with the outcome of this garment.
Megan Blakemore
Garment Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB
Size Range
Megan Blakemore
10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Design Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh
Size Range
MRB
10-12
S/S 15
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
B
C
E
D A
Ref.
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
All over repeat lace
CF CF side panels
White All over reapeat Rigid, laminated lace Mecahnical stretch
Powermesh
CB
White 30% stretch
A
B
Knicker elastic
Waistline Hem line
White Picot edge 40% stretch
Hook and eye fastening
CB
White Double Hook and eye fastening
Adjustable suspender straps
CF CB
White elastic 20% stretch
C
D
E
Megan Blakemore
Supplier
Cost
Pattern Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Season
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Ref.
1 of 3
2 of 3
Garment Type Suspender belt
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB
Size Range
Pieces
Name
CF
10-12
ACD
S/S 15
Range Division Date
Quantity
06/02/2015
Comments
MRB
Cut 1
6mm SA
CF Side
MRB
Cut 1 pair Rigid lace
6mm SA
CB
MRB
Cut 1 pair 6mm SA powermesh
3 of 3
Megan Blakemore
Measurement Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
C
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh
Size Range
MRB
A
F
B
10-12
D
S/S 15
Season
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
J
06/02/2015
G
E
I
H
Ref.
Measurement Description
Size in MM unless stated
A
CF waistline
56.4cm
B
CF side seam
129mm
C
Side seam
69mm
D
CB waistline
40mm
E
CF depth
80mm
F
CF side depth
112mm
G
CB depth
100mm
H
CF suspender straps
142mm
I
CB suspender straps
182mm
J
Hook & eye depth
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No.
S/A
1
6mm
2 3
6mm
4 5
6mm
6 7
6mm
8 9
6mm
10 11
16
Operation Description
10-12
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Machine No.
Run on elastic at CF hem
LS
Run back elastic
3Z
Join CF to CF side seam x2
LS
Plough seam to CB, stabilize seam. x2
Tw
Join CF side to CB x2
LS
Plough seam to CF, stabilize seam. x2
Tw
Run on elastic at hem of CF side panels x2
LS
Run back elastic x2
3Z
Run on elastic at hem of CB side panels x2
LS
Run back elastic x2
3Z
LS
Run back elastic
3Z
Make up suspender straps x4
LS
10mm
Turn back and attach suspender straps
LS
6mm
Inster hook and eye at CB
13
15
Size Range
MRB
S/S 15
Run on elastic at waist
6mm
12
14
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh
Season
LS
Trim loose threads, insert label if necessary and secure elastics
Megan Blakemore
Machine Reference Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Machine Name
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh
Size Range
MRB
Stitch Sample
Reference Code
Lock Stitch
LS
Baste stitch
LS
3-Step Zig-zag
3Z
Zig-zag
Zi
Twin needle tape
T
Twin needle boning
TNB
Twin needle wire casing
TNW
1 needle overlock
1N OL
3 Thread overlocker
3O
4 Thread overlocker
4O
2 Needle cover stitch
2N OL
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
Eyelet machine
N/A
10-12
EY
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Fit Analysis Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB
Size Range
10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Comments I tried my model on a size 10/12, I think the suspender belt was a very good fit. It wasn’t too tight and had just enough tension on the elastic to be comfortable on the body but also to stay secure on the figure. I tried the hook and eyes on the loosest fastening meaning that when the garment is worn over time it can be tightened. Finally, in regards to the suspender straps, i feel they are a very adequate length for the suspender belt. They sit firmly against the figure, supporting the stockings and are at a comfortable position so that they don’t cause discomfort to the wearer.
Megan Blakemore
Pattern Drafting Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB
Size Range
10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Comments Like most of my pattern, for the size 10/12 suspender belt I started off by squaring off all the pattern edges. I then added all the important information that was needed; name, date, garment, pattern piece, cuts needed, material etc... After doing that I started to apply all my seam allowance, being accurate and careful with the pattern pieces so that when i measured them I would see any discrepancies in the measurements and could adjust them. The main adjustment I had to apply to the suspender belt was extending the hem on the front side panel and CB panel for seam allowance when applying the suspnder straps. I also applied notches to my garments. After doing that I copied my pattern blocks onto card with necessary grain lines, matched those up to my material I traced them off using weights to hold my fabric in place and a disposable pen to draw around the pattern.
Megan Blakemore
Construction Analysis
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description White lace suspender belt with adjustable straps Fabric Customer Designer
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace and powermesh MRB
Size Range
10-12
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type Suspender belt
Range Division Date
06/02/2015
Comments I do feel that the suspender belt is one of my worse garments in terms of construction. First of all I applied the elastic to the CF hem which I thought was quite good as I used a pin and quartering technique to get it even. But also, because it’s rigid it doesn’t need that much tension, but just enough so that it sits flat and offers hang appeal. I then lock stitched the CF to front side panel, i stabilized the seam but didn’t realise you had to continue the stabilizer tape to the bottom of the panel so I have had to do it in two sections. I then joined the front side panel to the CB and stabilized the seam pressing it foreward. The next step was applying the elastic, I did the waist all in one go, which I am quite happy with although I might have applied too much at the CF panel as it doesn’t lie flat. I then applied it to the hem using the twisting technique, looking at the front side panels you can see a difference in the amount of tension I had applied here which doesn’t look that bad once on the figure. Looking at the elastic on the CB panel, I think over all I have applied to much elastic as the garment has started to crinkle up slightly. I am happy with the CB hook and eye insert as it is neat and even on both the left and right side of the garment. I do think the suspender straps could be neater but over all I am fairly pleased with the garment although there is room for improvement in the future.
Megan Blakemore
Garment Specification Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Design No.
Size Range
Megan Blakemore
001
34B/10-12
Design Specification Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
Design No.
MRB
Size Range
001
34B/10-12
G
H
F
B
C
E
A D
Ref.
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
All over repeat lace
CF CF side panels Bottom cup CF Bottom cup side cup
White All over reapeat Rigid, laminated lace Mecahnical stretch
Powermesh
CB CB side panel
White 30% stretch
A
B
Knicker elastic
CB and underarm Hem line
White Picot edge 40% stretch
Hook and eye fastening
CB
White Double Hook and eye fastening
Adjustable suspender straps
CF CB
White elastic 20% stretch
Bone channel
All seams
White Plush side bone casing
C
D
E
F
Megan Blakemore
Supplier
Cost
Design Specification
Ref.
G
Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Supplier
Cost
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
Fabric/Component
Design No.
MRB
Description
001
Size Range
34B/10-12
Position
Composition /Colour
Scallop edge tulle embroidery
Top cup
White Tulle embroidery scallop lace edge
Wire casing
Cup seam lining
White Plush side Rigid for wire
H
Megan Blakemore
Measurement Specification Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
001
Design No.
Size Range
34B/10-12
J K
A I
L M
E
D
C
B
F
G
H N O
Ref.
Measurement Description
Size in MM unless stated
A
CF bridge width
22mm
B
CF length
280mm
C
CF seam length
205mm
D
CF side seam length
219mm
E
Side seam length
284mm
F
CB side seam length
265mm
G
CB length
20cm
H
Hem length
64cm
I
Underarm and CB length
206mm
J
Top cup depth
60mm
K
Top cup length
180mm
Megan Blakemore
Measurement Specification Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Ref.
Design No.
Size Range
Measurement Description
001
34B/10-12
Size in MM unless stated
L
Bottom cup depth
80mm
M
Bottom cup length
255mm
N
CB suspender strap length
20cm
O
CF suspendeer strap length
18cm
Megan Blakemore
Pattern Specification
Ref.
1 of 9
Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Quantity
Comments
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Design No.
Size Range
Pieces
Name
CF
CFSi
001
34B/10-12
ACD
MRB
MRB
Cut 1 on fold
Cut 1 pair
2 of 9
SP 3 of 9
Megan Blakemore
MRB
Cut 1 pair
5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat
5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat
5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat
Pattern Specification
Ref.
4 of 9
5 of 9
Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
Pieces
MRB
Design No.
001
Size Range
34B/10-12
Name
ACD
Quantity
CF Stabiliser
MRB
CBSi
MRB
Cut 1 pair on fold
CB
MRB
Cut 1 pair
6 of 9
Megan Blakemore
Cut 1 pair on fold
Comments 5mm SA Rigid denier
5mm SA Powermesh
5mm SA Powermesh
Pattern Specification
Ref.
7 of 9
8 of 9
Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
Pieces
MRB
Design No.
001
Size Range
34B/10-12
Name
ACD
Quantity
TCu
MRB
Cut 1 pair
CF BCu
MRB
Cut 1 pair
Si BCu
MRB
Cut 1 pair
9 of 9
Megan Blakemore
Comments
5mm SA Rigid tulle lace embroidery scallop edge
5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat
5mm SA Rigid laminate lace All over repeat
Garment Breakdown
Op. No. 1
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
5mm
5mm
4
Design No.
MRB
S/A
2 3
Season
Product No.
Size Range
001
34B/10-12
Operation Description
Machine No.
LS join bottom cup at OB seam X2
LS
Plough open & stabilise seam
Iron Tw
Join top cup to bottom cup at overbust seam X2
LS
Press down and stabilise seam X2
Iron Tw
5
5mm
Join CF side to CB x2
LS
6
5mm
Bag out CF with CF stabiliser, turn through
LS
7
3mm
Baste down the CF to CF denier stabiliser to support through construction
LS
8
5mm
Join CF to CF side seam X2
LS
9
5mm
Join CF side seam to side seam panel X2
LS
5mm
Join side seam to CB side seam X2
LS
5mm
Join CB side seam to CB seam X2
LS
Plough all seams open, except the side seam to CB side seam - press towards CF
Iron
10 11 12
Using bone casing tape and Tw machine, apply boning channels to seams
13 14
5mm
Run on elastic at underarm and CB
LS
Run back elastic
3Z
15 16 17 18
5mm
Tw
Insert cup into cradle using notches as a reference point
LS
Apply wire casing to seam pressing down in the process
Tw
Measure wire casing channels, take off 2cm to each measurement and cut boning to this length. Insert.
Hand
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown
Op. No.
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
S/A
Design No.
MRB
Size Range
001
34B/10-12
Operation Description Insert wire to wire casing, bar tack seal X2
19 20
Season
Product No.
5mm
Starting at CF hem and work outwards, run on elastic to hem, turn back a section, and run onto the next one
Machine No. LS LS
Run back elastic
3Z
10mm
Make up suspender straps, using the measurements as reference, X4
LS
23
5mm
Insert hook and eyes to CB
LS
24
10mm
Apply suspender straps to basque, shorter straps at CF and longer ones at CB, X4
LS
25
3mm
Baste down the CF to CF denier stabiliser to support through construction
LS
21 22
26
Trim all loose threads, insert label if necessary and straps if a design decision
Megan Blakemore
Machine Reference Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
Machine Name
Design No.
MRB
Size Range
Stitch Sample
LS
Baste stitch
LS
3-Step Zig-zag
3Z
Zig-zag
Zi
Twin needle tape
T
Twin needle boning Twin needle wire casing
TNB
1 needle overlock
1N OL
3 Thread overlocker
3O
4 Thread overlocker
4O
2 Needle cover stitch
2N OL
TNW
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
N/A
34B/10-12
Reference Code
Lock Stitch
Eyelet machine
001
EY
Megan Blakemore
Fit Analysis Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Design No.
Size Range
001
34B/10-12
Comments I tried my basque on a 34B size 10/12 model as it would be worn by a human as opposed to a mannequin and will fill it better. I firstly noticed that the basque came up slightly small on the model as it did on the mannequin, I fear this might be because I used a 6mm SA instead of 5mm. However, it stll did fit the model it just looked slightly tight in some areas. When looking at the basque I first noticed that the hip tension on the left side was tighter than the right, this is because of my own fault I imagine even though I pinned and quartered it. Therefore I need to be more mindful of this in the future. Looking at the cups, I thought these fitted the model really well, the overbust seam ran of the point of bust and the cup offered good coverage for the model. However, I did notice that the wire didn’t sit quite on the breast root. Also, I think my cups may have been to smal for the cradle which I didn’t realise until sewing which effects the top of the basque when worn, which you can see in the photos. Finally, I fear my straps could do with being 20mm longer, my model is quite tall, however I fear they are a little too short even when at there longest. Overally, it is generally quite a good fit for my model and I am pleased with the outcome.
Megan Blakemore
Pattern Drafting Product No.
001
Design No.
001
Season
S/S 15
Description
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Fabric Customer Designer
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
MRB
Size Range
34B/10-12
Comments To adapt my pattern block for the 34B 10/12 basque, i started off by squaring off all the patterns nad filling in lines where the print had missed some off. I then checked all my information on the pattern and started to add seam allowance a necessary (5mm on each seam, hem and around cup). Once i had carefully added all the necessary seam allowance I then measured all the seams to ensure that they corresponded in order to make my seams flush when sewing the garment. I was a couple of mm out here and there so I adjusted where necessary making sure that it didn’t change the next consecutive seam. I did notice there was a large difference (10mm) in the top cup overbust seam to the bottom cup seam, however, I presumed this was for ease allowance when sewing as the bottom cup was a sharp curve. I then measured my bottom cup around cup seam and the top cup to see if they would fit in the cradle. I added to top cup and bottom cup measurements together (153+177=232mm), i used the measurement to work out the difference in the cradle (232-229=3mm). Therefore I added 1,5mm to the buttom cup CF and underarm. Because i added 3mm to the top cup and they was already 10mm different I decided to add 1.5mm to the top cup as well to keep it more even. Once i had adjusted my cup, I measured the wire to ensure it sat in the cradle with enough room for 6mm bar tack allowance and 5mm wire play. It didnt, there fore I extended the CF basque up 3mm for bar tack allowance. I then extended the underarm up 8mm (5mm for wire play, 3mm for bar tack allowance) and created a soft curve into the CF side panel seam, making sure I didn’t change the seam length as I would have to adjust all of them to then match. Because I was doing a scallop edge lace top cup, I scanned my lace in black and white and worked out where my valleys and mountains were in order to place my top cup correctly, making sure that the left was symmetrical to the right. I traced around my top cup pattern piece in order to create a pattern using the lace i had which made it easier when cutting out the fabric. These were the only adjustments necessary for my basque pattern, therefore I copied them onto card with all the necessary information to make it easier when cutting my fabric. When cutting fabric it is essential to make sure the pattern pieces follow the correct grain like and main stretch. For example, the laminated rigid lace has a slight mechanical stretch one way and is more rigid the other. Therefore, when laying down my fabric I made sure to put my lace pattern pieces on the rigid. However, power mesh needs the most stretch across the body.
Megan Blakemore
Construction Analysis
Season
S/S 15
White lace basque with scallop edge top cup
Garment Type
Basque
Laminated all over repeat rigid lace, tulle embroidery and powermesh
Range Division Date
15/02/15
Product No.
001
Description Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Design No.
Size Range
001
34B/10-12
Comments I do feel that the construction of my garments are qute good, I am very careful when drafting patterns ensuring I am using card pattern pieces, weights for my fabric and sharp scissors. I also add notches to use as reference points and when sewing elastic i measure my garments and use a pin and quartering method to apply equal tension across the garment. However, out of all my construction technqiues I think that the basque is one of the worse garments, I am pleased with how the top cup is flush against the top of the CF, and the bottom cup doesn’t have any puckers in the fabric even though I had to ease it in quite a considerable amount. When attached the seams together they all saat flush, which might have taken a couple of goes but I was happy with the out come in the end and it meant that it didn’t effect the fit of my garment. Once I had done my seams, i pressed them open (except for one) and then applied the bone casing which was quite neat. Apart from the right CB bone casing channel, I’m not sure as to why it has came out the way it has, it could be due to tension or the bobbin running out and in an ideal world I shouldv’’e re-done the channel but instead top stitched over it on the lock stitch machine as I didn’t want to ruin my garment further by unpicking it. I’m not sure if the tension is quite right on the laminated lace panels, however, I think I have added too much tension on the CB powermesh pieces. Also, somewhere between sewing the garment to cutting out the fabric the one CB is shorter than the other, which obviously isn’t good. Finally, the way in which I turned the elastic hem made the points of the basque very thick with fabric and caused the needle to break when attaching my suspender straps so next time I would re-think this method. Over all, it could be a lot worse, therefore I am quite pleased with it.
Megan Blakemore
Garment Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 34B
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Design Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
Ref.
Fabric/Component
MRB
Size Range 34B
Description Powermesh
Position CB
A
B
All over repeat, rigid CF eyelash lace Cradle CF underlayer
White Rigid All over repeat Eyelash edge
Underband
White Plain 30% stretch 10mm
Knicker elastic
Armhole Top CB
White Plain 30% stretch
Strapping elastic
Straps
White Plain 20% stretch
Hook and eye fastening
CB
White 28mm
D
E
Megan Blakemore
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Cost
Supplier
ÂŁ3 per metre
White 40% stretch
Underband elastic
C
F
Composition /Colour
Season
Sakae Lace HK
ÂŁ0.50
Design Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer Ref.
Fabric/Component
MRB
Size Range 34B
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
Denier
CF Cradle
White Rigid
Laminated lace
CF underlayer
White Rigid All over repeat Eyelash edge
Rings and sliders
Straps
White Plastic
A
B
C
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Supplier
Cost ÂŁ3 per metre
Pattern Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
Ref.
1 of 4
Pieces
MRB
Size Range 34B Name
Centre front bridge
Cradle
ACD
3 of 4
Megan Blakemore
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Quantity
Comments
CF
Cut 1 on fold Lace Cut 1 on fold Denier
5mm SA Bag out
CR
Cut 1 pair Lace Cut 1 pair Denier
5mm SA
CB
Cut 1 pair 5mm SA Powermesh
2 of 4
Centre back
Season
Pattern Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
Ref.
4 of 4
Pieces
MRB
Size Range 34B Name
CF underlayer
Megan Blakemore
ACD
CF U
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Quantity
Cut 1 on fold Rigid laminated lace
Comments
5mm SA
Measurement Specification Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
I
G
H
J
A D
E
B C
F
Ref.
Measurement Description
Size in MM unless stated
A
CF bridge length
26mm
B
CF bridge depth
70mm
C
Underband
58.5cm
D
Side seam
78mm
E
Wire casing
21cm
F
CB length
28mm
G
Strap length
46cm
H
Unlderlayer depth
23cm
I
Neckline length
15cm
J
Side, underarm and CB top
39.3cm
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No.
MRB
S/A
1
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Operation Description
Machine No.
Prepare laminated lace
Heat press
Bag out CF bridge
LS
Cut corners, turn through and rolle the seam, press flat.
Iron
Bag out cradle
LS
Cut corners, turn through and rolle the seam, press flat.
Iron
Join CF bridge to cradle at seam, X2
LS
7
Plough seam open
Iron
8
Stabilize seam
Tw
9
Apply wire casing to around cup X2
10
Insert wire
2
5mm
3 4
5mm
5 6
5mm
Tw
11
3mm
Bar tack CF bridge of wire casing X2
LS
12
3mm
Baste stitch outer cradle to underlayer cradle, applying ease between notches
LS
5mm
Join cradle, cradle underlayer and wing at side seam X2
LS
14
Press seam foreward
Iron
15
Stabilize seam
Tw
Run on elastic at underband
LS
Run back elastic
3Z
Run on elastic at neckline
LS
13
16
5mm
17 18
5mm
Megan Blakemore
Garment Breakdown Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No.
S/A
19 20
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Machine No.
Run on elastic at side, underarm and CB X2
LS
Run back elastic X2
3Z
10mm Make up adjustable straps X2
LS
5mm
24
26
Operation Description
Garment Type
3Z
23
25
Size Range 34B
S/S 15
Run back elastic
21 22
MRB
Season
5mm
Apply straps to CF using rings x2, apply to CB with slight tension X2
LS
Run back elastic straps at CB X2
3Z
Insert hook and eye to
L
Trim all loose threads
Megan Blakemore
Machine Reference Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
Machine Name
MRB
Size Range 34B
Stitch Sample
Reference Code
Lock Stitch
LS
Baste stitch
LS
3-Step Zig-zag
3Z
Zig-zag
Z
Twin needle tape
T
Twin needle boning
TNB
Twin needle wire casing
TNW
1 needle overlock
1N OL
3 Thread overlocker
3O
4 Thread overlocker
4O
2 Needle cover stitch
2N OL
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
Eyelet machine
N/A
EY
Megan Blakemore
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Fit Analysis Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Comments I am very happy with the over all fit of this garment, I tried it ona model who is a 34B sze 10/12 and complimented me on how comfortable it was! First of all I will start by saying that the CF sits very flush against the skin, I do think it is 3mm too big, on the toile it was fine but some how I managed to add 3mm on the final garment so I would improve that next time. Also, i think the cradle depth could do with being slightly bigger, because I only allowed for 5mm SA and used a 10mm elastic! However, I do still think it looks good and fits well. The wire casing sits along the breast root wich the model said was really comfortable. I did adjust the neckline slightly from the first toile and made it slightly more curvascious, which meant the elastic worked better on the final and it was so harsh around the neck. I do think i could even curve it a little bit more in the centre. You’ll notice on the first picture there is a bit of side boob which I would improve on next time, because I drafted this part on the stand, I didn’t allow for fullness on a human model. I am happy with the CB horseshoe shape and the underband as I did adjust this on the pattern slightly to make the curve softer.
Megan Blakemore
Pattern Drafting Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Comments To draft this pattern I used the 34B padded balcony bra as my foundation and an MS20 wire. I started off by adjust the cradle so that instead of having a visible wire, it was similar to a 34B cradle. To do this, I extended the original down 20mm at the side seam, i followed this along the cradle to the CF adding 20mm to create the soft curve. The CF bridge was still quite short so I compared it to a bra I had similar to the design I was doing and decided to extend the CF bridge up 25mm at the top. I created a seam line similar to the bra I was looking at. After I was happy with my cradle, I started to redraft the wing to meet the measurements of the cradle depth, I extended it down 20mm and instead of having a straight CB I created a horseshoe as I thought it suited my style more so. To begin with, on my first toile I accidentally made the wing 20mm too small! Which meant the hook and eye didn’t fit either. Therefore, I measured the length of my hook and eye to redraft the CB and I also added 20mm to the CB pattern. To double check my cradle, I used an XY axes to draw around my MS20 wire, i then measured the wire and added 5mm wire play and 6mm bar tack allowance. I redrafted the cradle to match this measurement without adjusting the wing. I started off doing the underlayer on paper, I then decided it wasn’t going to work and modeled on the stand. To do this I used a piece of calico a similar size to what I thought the patern piece my be, I pinned the calico at the CF and worked my way around the cup and armhole applying a dart going over the bust. I shaped the neckline unpinned the pattern and draw around it. I used the cradle shape as a guide to draft the underband of the underlayer and tidied up the darts. I reshaped the neckline to create a soft curve. I then added all the necessary seam allowance and measured the seams to ensure all the seams did correspond and would sit flush when sewing. I was happy with the outcome of my pattern and decided to draft it onto card and cut my fabric out.
Megan Blakemore
Construction Analysis
Product No. 001
Design No.
001
Description Two layered, cupless high neck bra Powermesh, denier and rigid white lace Fabric Customer Designer
MRB
Size Range 34B
Season
S/S 15
Garment Type
2 Layered Bra
Range Division Date
14/03/15
Comments I didn’t find this garment particularly hard to construct as I wrote a method of make before I went in, also because I did a toile it meant I had over come any problems that might occur in the construction of my final. I am a bit disappointed that the CF came out 3mm bigger on the final garment as this did effect the fit slightly. When sewing the underlayer onto the cradle I had to add ease, on my first toile I didn’t use notches which meant that I had a couple of puckers in the garment that I managed to avoid on my final. I am happy with the outcome of the elastic on the underband as it has a nice hang appeal and sits flat on the cradle and the powernet has enough to spring the wire. Looking at the elastic on the side of the garment, I’m sure sure if I’ve added too much or not enough? However, in comparison to my toile I do think it is a lot better! I think the neckline has the right amount of tension and I am happy with the over all outcome and shape. When applying my straps they didn’t look as neat on my toile as they do on my final which I am pleased about and I reshaped the back slightly before appling the elastic to the CB because the horseshoe shape wasn’t quite creating the right effect. One thing I would consider changing is the laminated lace, I am not happy with this as the lace was quite delicate and now has a really starchy look and is very rigid. Finally, the most important thing out of everything was that th ehook and eye fitted on the CB! Overall, I am very happy with the construction of this garment even if there is a bit of room for improvement.
Megan Blakemore