Garment Specification Product No. 001 Design No. Description Swimwear cover up Fabric Customer Designer
Design Specification 003
Rigid, transparent PVC Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
Product No. 001 Design No. Description Swimwear cover up
SS15 Garment Type Cover up Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Fabric Customer Designer
003
Rigid, transparent PVC Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Flatlock stitch
Season
SS15 Garment Type Cover up Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
A
C
B
3/4 sleeve length
YKK Black open end metal, nickle free 41cm zip.
Collar stand
Ref.
Lower waist line length
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
Supplier
Cost
A
PVC
CF, CB, Sleeves Collar stand
Transparent Rigid
Material Magic Leicester
£2 per metre
B
Scuba jersey
Sleeve hem Bodice hem
Black RS shiny WS matte 50% stretch
Material Magic
£8 per metre
Black, metal teeth nickle free 41cm
Sew and So
C
Scuba jersey Bias binding
Fabric/Component
Zip fastening
CF
Leicester
Online supplier
£4.20
Measurement Specification
Pattern Specification Product No. 001 Design No. Description Swimwear cover up Fabric Customer Designer
Ref. 1 of 4
2 of 4
Pieces
SS15 Garment Type Cover up Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Rigid, transparent PVC Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Name Centre front
Centre Back
Product No. 001 Design No. Description Swimwear cover up
Season
003
ACD CF
CB
Quantity Cut 1 pair
Cut 1 pair
Fabric Customer Designer I
Comments
4 of 4
Sleeve
Collar
Slv
Clr
Cut 1 pair
Cut 2 pairs
E
A
C
Rigid 2.5mm SA at CB, shoulder and SS 5mm SA at collar and sleeve No SA at hem
Rigid 5mm SA at top and neckedge 20mm SA at CF 2.5mm SA at CB
Rigid, transparent PVC Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
D
Rigid 2.5mm SA at side seam and shoulder 5mm SA at sleeve and collar No SA at hem 20 mm SA at CF
Rigid 2.5mm SA at top seam 5mm SA No SA at hem
SS15 Garment Type Cover up Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
J
B
Ref. 3 of 4
Season
003
H
G
F
Measurement Description
Size (mm unless stated)
A
CF length
41.5cm
B
CF width at hem
46cm
C
CF width at waist
51cm
D
Shoulder seam length
14cm
E
CB length
49.5cm
F
CB width at hem
37.5cm
G
CB width at waist
42cm
H
Sleeve length
39cm
I
Collar length
40.4cm
J
Collar width
4.5cm
Fit Analysis
Garment Breakdown Product No. 001 Design No. Description Swimwear cover up Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No. 1
S/A
Rigid, transparent PVC Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
SS15 Garment Type Cover up Range Phantasm Division Final Date 04/03/15
Operation Description
2.5mm Baste CB panels together right side facing. Baste CF panel and CF side X2
2 3
003
Flat lock cover seams X3 2.5mm Baste shoulder seam at CF and CB together right side facing X2
4
LS
LS
6
Flat lock seam X2
FL
7
Bias bind sleeve hem X2
Bias
LS sleeve and side seams X2
LS
5mm
9 10
Flat lock side seam X2 2.5mm LS CB collar X2
SS15 Garment Type Cover up Range Phantasm Division Final Date 04/03/15
FL
LS insert sleeve to bodice, refer to notches, add ease when sewing X2
8
Rigid, transparent PVC Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
LS
FL
5mm
Fabric Customer Designer
003
Machine No.
Flat lock shoulder seam X2
5
Product No. 001 Design No. Description Swimwear cover up
FL LS
Comments For my cover up I used a rigid size 12 bodice with sleeves as this was similar to my design, I created a toile in calico so not to waste my fabric and just to see the general shape. Because I was using transparent PVC I closed all the darts so you couldn’t see them on my final fabric. I then made the sleeves three quarter length instead of full length and removed the SA because I was binding them. On the sleeves, I also removed the 10mm ease allowance on the top because I didn’t want to gather the sleeve in PVC as it didn’t work well when doing a sample.
Flat lock seam X2
FL
LS outer and inner collar together, turn through
LS
LS collar to neckedge using reference points (CB/CF)
LS
I also made the SA 2.5mm in some areas as I was flat lock stitching certain seams.
14
Bias bind hem
Bias
15
10mm Insert zip at CF
I then created a collar stand by taking the measurement from the next and using it as a reference. When I created my second toile in my final fabric I was very pleased with the outcome and continued to tidy up the patterns, writing all the information on them and measuring the seams.
11 12 13
16
5mm 5mm
Cut all loose threads and inert label if necessary.
LS
I made the bodice slightly shorter in length and removed SA again for bias binding. I then added the panels I had created on my final design – which didn’t effect fit.
Design Specification
Garment Specification Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top
Season
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Fabric Customer Designer B
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
A
Flat lock stitch
C Chunky, metal YYK open end zip nickl free, 30cm, black.
Waist length
Ref. A
Fabric/Component
Description Neoprene
Bias bound contrast edges scuba jersey one way stretch Racerback style CB
B
C
Scuba jersey
Zip fastening
Position
Composition /Colour
Supplier
CF CF Side CB
Prepared for print 2.5mm thickness 20% stretch
Neckline Armhole Hem
Black RS shiny WS matte 50% stretch
Material Magic
CF
Black, metal teeth nickle free 30cm
Sew and So
Cost £10 per metre £17 per metre to print (one side) £8 per metre
Leicester
Online supplier
£3.80
Pattern Specification Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
Ref. 1 of 3
Pieces
Measurement Specification Season
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Name Centre front
ACD CF
Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top
SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Quantity Cut 1 pair
Fabric Customer Designer
Season
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
I
Comments G
H
Stretch No SA - butt join Bind edges
A
E K
J C 2 of 3
Centre front side panel
CFS
Cut 1 pair
D
Stretch No SA - butt join Bind edges
B
Centre back
CB
Cut 1 on fold
Stretch No SA - butt join Bind edges
F
Measurement Description
Ref. 3 of 3
SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Size (mm unless stated)
A
CF length
32cm
B
CF width at hem
44cm
C
CF side panel length
22.2cm
D
Side seam length
13cm
E
CB length
38cm
F
CB width at hem
32.6cm
G
Shoulder seam length
7cm
H
CF neckline length
26.6cm
I
CB neckline length
18cm
J
CF Armhole
24.5cm
K
CB Armhole
35.3cm
Garment Breakdown Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top
S/A
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No.
Machine Reference SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Division Final Date 04/03/15
Operation Description
1
Butt join CB seam, right sidse together with a close & wide stitch length. X2
2
Flat lock stitch CB seam, right side facing up, black thread. X2
3
Butt join CF with CFS panel, right sidse together with a close & wide stitch length. X2
4
Flat lock stitch seam. X2 Butt join shoulder seam, right sides together. X2
5 6
Flat lock stitch seam. X2
7
Stretch bias bind black scuba jersey onto armhole X2 and neckline.
8
Baste side seam at bias binding X2
9
Butt join side seam X2 Flat lock stitch side seam X2
11
Stretch bias bind hem
12 13
Machine No. Zi FL
10mm
Insert zip at CF
Cut all loose threads and inert label if necessary.
Fabric Customer Designer Machine Name
Lock stitch machine Cotton thread One needle Automated back stitch
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12 Stitch Sample
Season
SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Division Final Date 04/03/15 Machine Ref.
LS
Zi FL Zi
Flat lock Cover stitch
FL
Zig Zag Machine
Zi
FL
S-Bias
LS
10
Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top
Season
Zi FL
S-Bias LS
Stretch bias binding machine
S-Bias
Comments
Fit Analysis Product No. 002 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
004
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
SS16 Garment Type Crop top Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
When I did a second toile the armhole still gaped a lot and I wasn’t happy with the racer back style at the back as it looked out of shape. I created another dart in the same method as before and adapted the back too. When I did my next toile, the armhole did fit slightly better but I realised part of the problem – when I tried it on a human – it was too high under the under arm. Also, in addition to adding two darts in the same CF piece the CF side panel shifted and I didn’t like the shape it had created. Therefore on my next toile, I lowered the underarm, create a sharped curve at the CB which also helped to pull in the armhole situation. I eliminated the CF side panel for the time being to perfect the fit. I also moved the side seam 2cm back but it was shifting forwards. I then created one more final toile but this time I added bias binding to one armhole and it made a huge difference and I was finally happy with the pattern. I then 3D drafted the CF side panel back in and traced off my patterns, adding all the necessary information and measuring the seams so get them equal. I am very happy with the fit of this garment after a lot of trial and error! There is no gaping at the CF armhole like there was on the first toile. The side seam is flush and in the correct position as well as the CB being central and the CF. It’s close fitting and very comfortable!
Comments To pattern draft the crop top of my swimwear I began with a size 12, stretch full body with sleeves. As I was going sleeveless I completely removed the sleeve pattern, I was also doing a garment that was above the waist so I used the waistline as a reference point to draft my hem. The pattern had 6mm SA but because I was using neoprene and butt joining I had to remove all SA on the pattern to continue. I then added necessary shaping to the crop top such as the centre front side panel and created my first toile using neoprene. On my toiles I didn’t attach bias binding or the zip fastening as I didn’t think this would affect the fit. However, later I did find out that the bias binding would help. When I did my first toile the armhole was 4cm to big at the CF, I think this was due to not having the sleeve attached to pull it down and more fitted towards the figure. However, I create a 4cm dart on the toile, then copied this onto the pattern and close it as I didn’t want the neoprene to bulk and be uncomfortable. I also adapt the back slightly as I wanted more of a racer style. Therefore I did the necessary adjustments and measured the seams on the patterns to make sure they still corresponded.
Design Specification
Garment Specification Product No. 003 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
001
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Product No. 003 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top
Season
SS16 Garment Type Bikini Brief Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Fabric Customer Designer
001
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
SS16 Garment Type Bikini Brief Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
B
1N Overlock Stitch C
A
Ref.
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition /Colour
A
Swimwear gusset lining
Gusset
Black 40% one way stretch Gusset lining Swimwear
B
Scuba jersey
CF CB
Black RS shiny WS matte 50% stretch
C
Swimwear elastic
Waistline Left/Right Leg
Black 40% stretch
Supplier
Cost ÂŁ1 per metre
Material Magic Leicester
ÂŁ8 per metre
Pattern Specification Product No. 003 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
Ref. 1 of 3
Pieces
Measurement Specification Season
001
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Name Centre front
ACD CF
SS16 Garment Type Bikini Brief Range Phantasm Division Final Date 04/03/15
Quantity Cut 1 on fold
Product No. 003 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
Gusset
Gu
Cut 1 pair
Stretch 10mm SA on leg hem and waistline 6mm SA at SS
Centre back
CB
Cut 1 on fold
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
E
A
Stretch No SA at CF 6mm SA at CB 10mm SA at leg
Stretch 10mm SA on leg hem and waistline 6mm SA at SS
D
F
H
G
C
Measurement Description
Ref. 3 of 3
SS16 Garment Type Bikini Brief Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Comments
B
2 of 3
Season
001
Size (mm unless stated)
A
CF waist length
37.6cm
B
CF length - waist to gusset seam
26cm
C
Gusset length
11.8cm
D
CF leg length
34.7cm
E
Side seam length
3cm
F
CB waist length
33cm
G
CB length - waist to gusset seam
22cm
H
CB leg length
27.5cm
Fit Analysis
Garment Breakdown Product No. 003 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
Op. No.
S/A
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Operation Description
1
6mm Bag out gusset
2
4T OL raw edge
3
4T OL CF gusset raw edge
4
Run on elastic to WS of fabric X2
5
6mm
Baste right side seam when wearing and 4T OL
6
Run on waist elastic
7
1N overlock all elastic
8 9 10
6mm 10mm
001
Baste left side seam when wearing and 4T OL Turn back elastic and zig zag Cut all loose threads and inert label if necessary.
Season
SS16 Garment Type Bikini Brief Range Phantasm Final Division Date 04/03/15
Product No. 003 Design No. Description Swimwear crop top Fabric Customer Designer
001
P.F.P neoprene, 2.5mm thick, black foam Female, aged 19 to 28 years. N.L.P Size Range 12
Season
SS16 Garment Type Bikini Brief Range Phantasm Division Final Date 04/03/15
Machine No. LS 4T OL
4T OL LS LS / 4T OL
LS 1N OL
LS Zi
Comments For my bikini brief I used scuba jersey with a one way stretch in black, the pattern I used was a basic bikini shape and when I toiled it the first time I was extremely happy with how it had turned out and it didn’t need much adjusting at all. However, I think on my first toile I was slightly too generous when turning back the elastic, but still added an extra 10mm onto the side seam and made it curve softly back into the leg to help as the model said it was a little uncomfortable. I am very pleased withthe over all outcome and fit of this garment, especially as elastic is not my forte, after perseverance i feel that this garment couldn’t have gone better. I extended the side seam and I feel that because I was a lot more careful it is at a comfortable length for the model. The waist has a good hang appeal as well as function and is still comfortable. and the leg holes have an equal tension and function very well on the figure.