Discussion on development of silk weaving trademark process in shang dynasty of china

Research of Materials Science September 2013, Volume 2, Issue 3, PP.41-49

Discussion on Development of Silk Weaving Trademark Process in Shang Dynasty of China Xingmei Guo1, 2, Yiping Qiu 1† College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai, 201620, P.R.China †Email:

gyg@dhu.edu.cn, ypqiu@dhu.edu.cn

Abstract In the period of Shang dynasty, agriculture achieved great development; accompanied by a certain scale of mulberry silkworm industry as silk production had a relatively high technological level and complicated loom and weaving skills emerged. The governor of the Shang dynasty attached great importance to the economic status of mulberry silkworm. Though with a limited quantity of silk fabrics in Shang dynasty found in archaeology, figured silk has emerged, indicating that the weaving technology at that time has reached a certain level. Therefore, under the background at that time, people had no sense on cultivation and development of branded goods. At the earliest, only the emperor could use silk fabrics. However, the rapid development of silk industry made silk culture constantly integrate into the Chinese culture in terms of geography and society; moreover, the flourish and use of silk allowed it to shine in clothing, economy, art and culture and became an indispensable high-end article of Chinese merchants in foreign trade. Meanwhile, in the period of Shang and Zhou dynasties, the Silk Road has formed and external exchange has been enhanced. All this has laid a foundation for the prosperity of silk industry in the period of Han and Tang dynasties.

Keywords: Shang Dynasty; Silk Weaving; Trademark; Process; Development

1 INTRODUCTION Silk weaving refers to the technical process of making silk fabrics with silk or chemical fiber filament as warp and weft. Silk fabrics, also called “silk” and “satin”, refer to natural silk fabrics traditionally.

SYMBOLIC SILK OF ANCIENT CHINESE CULTURE

In ancient times, silk referred to textiles weaved with natural silk (mainly mulberry silk, also including a small number of tussah silk and cassava silk). In the modern times, due to the expansion of raw materials of textiles, textiles with warp using artificial or natural filament fiber can be called as silk in the broad sense. Silk weaved with pure mulberry silk is especially called as “real silk”.

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Chinese silk is time-honored. So far, archaeological discovery has found that silk fabrics is derived from Qianshanyang, Huzhou, Zhejiang and Qingtai Village, Xingyang, Henan at the earliest, holding a history of over 5000 years.

In the period of Shang dynasty, agriculture achieved great development accompanied by a certain scale of mulberry silkworm industry. The governor of the Shang dynasty attached great importance to the economic status of mulberry silkworm. Though with a limited quantity of silk fabrics in Shang dynasty found in archaeology, figured silk has emerged, indicating that the weaving technology at that time has reached a certain level. Meanwhile, in the period of Shang and Zhou dynasties, the Silk Road has formed and external exchange has been enhanced. All this has laid a foundation for the prosperity of silk industry in the period of Han and Tang dynasties.

2 DEVELOPMENT OF SHANG DYNASTY 2.1 Initial origin Shang dynasty, also called Yin and Yinshang[1-3], is the second dynasty in the Chinese history as well as the first dynasty having direct contemporaneous literary inscription in China. Shang Tang, the chief of Shang Tribe of vassal state of Xia dynasty, established Shang dynasty in Bo (Shangqiu today) after leading vassal state in Mingtiao War and destroying Xia. Then, the capital of Shang dynasty frequently changed. After its descendant Pan Geng moved it to Yin (Anyang today), it became stable. The capital in Yin lasted for 273 years. Therefore, Shang dynasty is also called as “Yin” or “Yinshang”. It experienced three major stages from BC 1600 to BC 1046. The first stage was “prior Shang”; the second stage was “early Shang” and the third stage was “late Shang”. It has been handed down for 17 generations and 13 emperors and lasted for 600 years. The last king Shang Zhou was defeated by King Wu of Zhou in Muye Battle. The excavation of ruins in Yin has proved the existence of Chinese Shang dynasty. Shang dynasty was in the golden age of slavery. Slave owner noble was the ruling class and a large number of bureaucracy and army were formed. The record of oracle and Chinese bronze inscriptions was the earliest systematic letter symbol of China found currently. In the period of Shang dynasty, developed non-central plain civilization also existed in Yangtze River basin.

Shang dynasty (about 17th Centry BC - 11th Century BC[4]). As Qi got manor in Shang, his descendant Shang Tang named the dynasty established by him in Bo (Shangqiu, Henan today) as “Shang”. Then, the capital of Shang dynasty frequently changed. In the period of Pan Geng, the capital moved to Yin (Anyang, Henan). At that time, the capital became stable and lasted for 273 years here. Therefore, Shang dynasty is also called as “Yin” or “Yinshang”.

It was the first dynasty following Xia dynasty in the Chinese history. Compared to Xia dynasty, it has more abundant archaeological discoveries.

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TERRITORY OF SHANG DYNASTY[5]

There is no consensus on genealogy time of Shang dynasty. According to Xia Shang Zhou Chronology Project, Shang dynasty took over Xia dynasty in about BC 1556 and was destroyed by King Wu of Zhou on January 20, BC 1046 which lasted for 510 years in total. This time has been accepted in the Chinese mainland historian circle.

According to the calculation of historiographer Dong Zuobin in accordance with calendar in early Republic of China, the period of Shang dynasty should be BC 1766 to BC 1111, lasting for 655 years in total. According to the calculation of historiographer Shao Yong in the Northern Song, the period of Shang dynasty should be BC 1766 to BC 1122, lasting for 645 years in total. The statement of Dong Zuobin has been adopted in Taiwan historian circle and included in Taiwan textbook [6].

During over 650 years, Shang dynasty has moved its capital for many times. Most were in the territory of Henan. Yin ruins have been found in Anyang, Henan. Cultural relics of Shang dynasty have also been found in many places such as Shangqiu, Zhengzhou, Yanshi, Wenxian, Huixian and Xinzheng.

2.1.1 Wu Ding resurgence Wu Ding was the son of Xiao Yi who was the brother of Pan Geng, i.e. nephew of Pan Geng and honored as Gaozong after his death. Therefore, he was also called as Yin Gaozong. Due to his well governance, he made great achievements in textile, medicine, traffic and astronomy etc. The flourishing occasion created by Wu Ding laid a good foundation for the development of social production in late Shang dynasty and even the prosperity of Western Zhou civilization[7][8][9].

2.2 Territory Shih Chi路Biography of Wu Qilie recorded that the territory of Shang dynasty was from Mengmen on the left and Taihang on the right.

Changshan is in its north and a great river flowed in its south[35]. The territory of Shang dynasty extended to Liaoning in the north, Hubei in the south, Shanxi in the west and Haibin in the east. Besides Hubei, Henan, Anhui, - 43 http://www.ivypub.org/rms/

Shandong, Hebei, Shanxi, Beijing and Tianjin to the north of Yangtze River belonging to Xia and a part of Shaanxi and Jiangsu, it may also include the remaining land of Shaanxi and Jiangsu, Liaoning, Gansu, Hunan, Zhejiang and a part of Sichuan[8].

TERRITORY OF SHANG DYNASTY

[10]

According to the record of the Book of Shang Dynasty, “the capital has changed for eight times from Qi to Cheng Tang. Tang first resided in Bo.� There are different opinions on places of capital changed for eight times, but generally in middle and lower Yellow River and within the north and middle part of Henan and southwest Hebei.

Some people considered that Zhengzhou and Yanshi might be the capital of Tang. After Xia was destroyed, the capital has moved for five times from Cheng Tang to Pan Geng. It was the first in Yin[8].

2.3 Economy 2.3.1 Handicraft industry All were managed by the government, with refined division of labor, huge scale, large output, multiple types and high technological level. Especially, bronze ware casting technique developed to the peak and became the symbol of civilization of Shang Dynasty. Silk fabrics included gauze with plain weave, leno with skein tissue and crepe.

Besides, jacquard weave technology has been matured[7] [8] [12].

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2.3.2 Costume Costumes in Shang Dynasty have at least 12 forms: [8] (I) Short costumes with crossed collar and right gusset, including ornaments. The length of the clothing reached the hip; while the length of the sleeve reached the wrist with narrow cuff, equipped with skirt with drape, broad waistband, liggings and turnup point toe. This kind of costumes was for influential officials. The portrait “is dressed with the clothing with a large collar and right gusset; the length of the clothing covers the hip; broad waistband is equipped; and the length of the skirt is over the knee. The shin is wrapped with liggings; the shoes with turnup point toe are dressed; and there is embroidery lace at the neckline, lappet edge, lower edge and cuff; as well, embroidery edge is on the waistband; in addition, the skirt is bouffant with embroidery pattern; the clothes and ornaments have fret and square pattern etc.” [8] (II) Long costumes with crossed collar and right gusset with long sleeve and narrow cuff; besides, the front opening exceeded the keen and rear opening reached the foot.

NOBLE COSTUMES IN SHANG AND ZHOU DYNASTIES [13]

They were equipped with loose trousers, broad waistband, shoes and cloth used to protect the keen at the abdomen and cap on the head for middle-level and low-level noble or imperial bodyguard. Such type of long costumes with crossed collar with rear opening is the precedent of “ancient Chinese robe”. The bingle was combed to the neck and rolled up inward. Along the middle of the top of the head to the back and hip, there is leaf edge ornament. For the close-fitting long-sleeve clothing, the length of the clothing reached the foot. Leather shoes were equipped with turnup point toe and flat base. [8] (III) Long costumes with crossed collar include the overcoat with Chinese ornaments. The length of the clothes reached the ankle. They were equipped with broad waistband and the cloth protecting the keen and shoes and the cap on the head for high-level ladies. A long pigtail was on the top of the head and the root was at the rear side of right ear, besides, the pigtail went through the right ear and the pigtail was connected with the root. A cap was provided.

Horizontal-type tube-shaped rolled ornaments were at the front of the cap. The hair could be exposed on the top of the cap. Small ostioles were at the left and right of the cap. As well, an ostiole was at the front, used to insert hairpin and fix the cap. The Book of Rites Yuzao said, “the cap made of plain white silk is the cap representing the surname.”

Zheng Zhu said, “it refers to the rolled cap.”, and here refers to the cap of those with the surname of Yin. This type of caps was equipped with horizontal-type tube-shaped rolled ornaments. They dressed with long costumes with crossed collar and narrow sleeve. The length of the clothes reached the ankle. They were equipped with broad waistband. A cloud-shaped wide handle device was inserted in the left waist. A strip-type “cloth used to protect the keen” was hanged before the abdomen. [8] (IV) Long lattice cloth was covered on the shoulders and crossed before the chest as right gusset. The lower body was dressed with long stripe skirt. The “cloth used to protect the keen” was hanged at lower part of the abdomen.

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Lattice stripe cloth cap was on the head to cover the hair. This was the clothing of the noble. Both hands were put at front of the slender waist. Long lattice cloth was covered on the shoulders and crossed before the chest as right gusset. There were ornaments on the top of the cap to fix the cap. Such type of caps may be similar to “the cap made of black silk” in The Book of Rites. [14] (V) Short costumes with straight collar, symmetrical opening, and long sleeve. The length of the clothing reached the hip, equipped with long pants, shoes and the cap on the head. This was the clothing for the noble. Both hands supported on the ground and the head went upward. The cap with the shape of circular hoop was equipped. The costume was equipped with straight collar, symmetrical opening, cloud and thunder patterns on the clothes and ornaments. The lower part of the body was dressed with the pants with separated crotch. A large cattle pattern was between the abdomen and hip. The feet were dressed with high shoes. [8] (VI) Long gown with symmetrical opening and broad long sleeve. The length of the clothing reached the foot (the 33rd example). It was the clothing for the noble. Double topknots were on the left and right of the top of the head.

Both hands were at front of the waist and showed the shape of bowing. They dressed with long gown with symmetrical opening and broad long sleeve. The length of the clothing reached the foot. The feet were seemingly dressed with high shoes. [8] (VII) Short costumes were equipped with symmetrical opening, Chinese ornaments, girdling, pants and colored shoes. The hair was fixed with some glue to highly hunching shape. The hair tip was outward. This is the image of middle-level and low-level noble or courtiers and trusted followers. The hair was highly hunching and the hair tip was outward. This might be fixed with some glue. Dressed with short costumes equipped with symmetrical opening, Chinese ornaments, girdling, pants and colored shoes, they are made from cotton and silk. [8] (VIII) Colored short costumes with high rear collar, open front and long sleeve were for the noble and trusted followers. The bingle was left on the head. The clothing had long sleeve, narrow cuff, and open front and high rear collar. The lower edge of the clothing reached the hip. Cloud pattern was on the back. They wore the shooes. [8] (IX) Colored short costumes with round collar and long sleeve were equipped with tight colored pants and cap for middle-level and upper-level noble. The hair type was towering with tip shape, which was very peculiar. Mr. Shen Congwen considered that the hair might be fixed with certain glue. High crown was on the head with the direction pointing out at the back and rolled downward. Leaf edges stood out around. A bun like the tail of the scorpion was on the rear of the head. They were dressed with clothes with long sleeve, narrow cuff and tight pants covered with cloud patterns. ⊕ pattern was on the hip. The arms were curved and hands were at front of the chest, with bare feet.

Double topknots were made. The front topknot was high and rolled downward. The rear topknot was slightly small and stood out. The crown type was towering with outstanding edges around. The crown was rolled backward An armlet was worn. Outstanding edges existed around the crown. The front and rear of the crown showed right angle.

Different from the last example, they were dressed with tights with cloud patterns. Similar to the last example, ⊕ pattern was on the hip. The crown was twice higher than the last example. The head was covered with the crown.

The shape of the crown was higher at the front and lower at the rear. Leaf edges were at the front and upper side. The rear side was smooth. The body of the crown was not hollow. The clothes were decorated with cloud patterns. [8] (X) Clothes with round collar, narrow long sleeve, embossed overcoat reaching the shank belong to nobles in middle and lower class. They had a short pigtail starting from the central head top and hanging down at the back of the head.

They wore clothes with narrow long sleeves and relatively high round collar, reaching the shank. Their clothes were decorated with snake pattern and cloud pattern. They often had bare feet unkempt[8].

(XI) Round collar, long and thin sleeves and hakama, the lower hem of gown falling to the floor and waistband were criminals’ clothing which was simple and unadorned. It can be classified into two types: bald head and arms bound at the back indicating male criminals; hair-up or single topknot or browband, arms bound at the back and hands cuffed indicating female criminals. Males wore hakama with round collar and long and thin sleeves, the lower hem of gown falling to the floor and waistband and their arms were bound at the back. Females had a single topknot on the top of the head without a rag with bare feetunkempt. Their hands were cuffed in front of the belly[8].

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the head or a flat and round hat showed the image of low-down people and domestic servant who wore a round “browband” on the head and only hung a “cover” in front of the belly[8].

3 SHANG SILK FABRICS ON AERUGO

SHANG SILK FABRICS ON AERUGO

In Shang dynasty, crossing end weave was used to make warp form silk fabrics with obvious rotation. Through the development in Yinshang, complicated brocade process emerged in the period of Western Zhou dynasty. During the Warring States Period, silk weaving process reached a high level.

Shang silk fabrics adhering to aerugo: The period of Shang and Zhou was the flourishing period of Chinese Bronze Age, with a lot of cultural relics and significant development of silk industry. However, as silk is difficult to preserve, no intact real object has been unearthed so far. Nevertheless, there is abundant relevant information. In oracle, there are dozens of words related to Mi, such as silkworm, mulberry, silk etc. Silkworm and mulberry leaf were depicted on some oracle bones; and some had oracle inscriptions to offer sacrifices to “Silkworm God”. Some oracle inscriptions maintained the information of silkworm and mulberry industry. For example, “I” was the original form of “?” or “?”, which was a pictographic character of wire winding tool. In 1979, weaving tools unearthed in Warring States Cave Tomb (2595±75 years from now) in Guixi, Jiangxi had “H” and “X” winding frames. “?”, Yao and Hand characters in Chinese bronze inscriptions were like wire winding with “H” tool. Cultural relics related to mulberry silkworm can sometimes be seen. In 1953, a jade silkworm was unearthed in Shang dynasty tomb in Yin ruins Dasikong Village, with 3.15 cm in length, whose body was divided into seven sections, like real silkworm. Similar jade silkworm[15] was found in Shang dynasty tomb in Subutun, Yidu, Shandong.

In the period of Shang and Zhou dynasties, bronze ware was very precious and often wrapped with silk fabrics before embedded into tomb. Therefore, while unearthed, it often had the trace of fabric, which provided important information for our understanding of the silk industry at that time. Importantly, there was Oceania Shang Dynasty tomb in Xingan, Jiangxi and Shang relics in Taixi, Gaocheng, Hebei etc.

Fibrous raw materials of fabric adhered to the bronze ware unearthed in Shang Dynasty tomb in Xingan. Sampling from the bronze battle-axe and measurement with infrared spectroscopy indicated that it was real silk, i.e. natural silk.

Most were plain weave silk. On the bronze drinking vessel unearthed in No.33 tomb in Taixi, Gaocheng, Hebei, there were five different traces of silk fabrics, mainly plain weave fabrics, including fine silk fabrics and ?. There was one incomplete trace, with a plicated appearance and loose oillet, which was a crape fabric. The thinnest silk thread of the fabric was 0.05 mm and the thickest was 0.7 mm, indicating that silk threads of different specifications could be made according to the requirement of fabrics. In addition, the warp was thinner than weft, but its degree of twist was higher for the convenience of weaving. The shape and size of a ceramic roller found in Gaocheng were similar to wharve of cord wheel in later generations, which was condisered as a part on cord wheel by experts.

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The silk piece unearthed in Qianshanyang was weaved with combination yarn without twisting. Due to the diversification of silk fabric varieties, it is required to weave warp and weft of different thicknesses with doubling and twisting methods. Doubling refers to the combination of various yarns after reeling; while twisting refers to silk thread subjected to twisting and combination.

Before bleaching and dyeing, silk should be refined so as to remove impurities in fiber. Book of Diverse Crafts recorded the method of silk refining: “silk is put in water for seven days; then exposed in the sun for several days and put in the well at night for seven days and nights.� There were three processes: first, it was steeped in alkaline grey water for seven days to remove sericin; second, exposed in the sun, one feet away from the ground, for degumming and bleaching; third, steeped water and exposed in the sun alternately. Book of Diverse Crafts also recorded the process of silks processing-first, steeped in neem grey water with a high alkalinity, fully dissolve sericin and degum with clam grey water with a low alkalinity. Such process of silk refined with grey water has occurred in Shang dynasty.

Sweden Marmi Museum and Far East Antique Museum have respectively one bronze Zhi (a drinking vessel in ancient times) and battle-axe. In 1937, Swedish scholar Silvan found two silk fabrics relics adhering to aerugo on a bronze brass, one of which was plain weave fabric and the other of which was damask with diamond pattern on plain weave. The former was single strand of silk without twisting and there was sericin on silk fiber, indicating the lack of refining; while the latter had soft silk fiber and removed sericin. It experienced washing and refining. Warp and weft were paralleled yarn subjected to twisting. The degree of twisting reached a thousand twisting per meter. Such high twist yarn cannot be processed with spinning. It is reckoned that twisting machines such as spinning wheel has occurred at that time. A diamond pattern on damask had 30 weft yarns. Twill derivative weaves were based on one down one up and one down three ups. Patterns had a great circulation of warp and weft.

Yin bronze wares collected in the Palace Museum also have diamond pattern of silk fabrics, which is more complicated than that discovered by Silvan. Each fret is composed of 35 warps and 28 wefts. Peripheral lines are thick. Another tissue is added in plain weave, thus forming combination weave pattern with symmetrical and harmonious patterns, well arrangement and exquisite workmanship[16].

Plain and white silk fabrics-fine silk fabrics have emerged in Shang dynasty. Through refining, its warp density is about 60-100 pieces/cm and weft density is about 30-40 pieces/cm, with a great difference. A plain weave fabric with warp density 72 pieces/cm and weft density 35 pieces/cm adhered to a bronze battle-axe unearthed in Yin ruins, which was considered as fine silk fabric by experts.

In the period of Shang and Zhou, bronze weaving tools emerged, which has promoted the development of textile industry. Clans specializing in weaving emerged. After King Wu defeated Shang, Zhou royal court gave six nationalities of Yin people to Lu and seven nationalities to Wei. Clan Suo (rope worker), Clan Shi (flag worker) and Clan Fan (Maying worker) were clans engaged in spinning and weaving from generation to generation.

4 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF SILK Before turning into silkworm moth, silkworm larva protects itself in silkworm cocoon. Each silkworm cocoon is a piece of silk with 2000-4000 m length. Silkworm cocoons gather in damp and hot air. Humidity and cold air will kill larva and make it fail to spin. Put into hot water, silkworm cocoon will become soft or gradually turn pulped. Dirty surface layer will drop. Finally, the end of silk will expose. Then, it is necessary to put silkworm cocoon into the second tank. According to the degree of thickness of silk, 4-12 silkworm cocoons can be wrapped together. One silkworm cocoon can produce silk with 1-3 km length.

5 CONCLUSIONS Throughout the development status of silk weaving trademark process in Shang dynasty of China, deficiencies in Chinese silk industry currently have been taken into consideration and its development strategies have been briefly described: China has nearly dominated the leading end of silk industry chain in the whole world. However, as Chinese silk - 48 http://www.ivypub.org/rms/

clothing industry lacks international famous brands, most Chinese enterprises only earn process cost and raw material cost and give the tail end of high added value to countries such as France and Italy which simply depend on deep processing of silk and reexport. Therefore, though China has a high export volume of silk products, its swap level is only 1/2 of Korea, 1/4 of Japan and 1/13 of Italy. Due to the lack of international famous brand, Chinese silk is far from the realization of its due economic value. Long-term lack of positive and active brand operation makes Chinese silk industry lose a lot of profits that should be gained.

Therefore, Chinese silk industry urgently requires cultivating and developing good trademarks and famous-brand products and rebuilding the image of silk products with famous-brand products. In addition, some developing countries are developing primary and intermediate products of silk industry rapidly and competing with China according to their actual conditions for the development of silk production and attempting to promote their industrialization process. Therefore, Chinese silk industry must maintain its status in silk power through brand promotion strategies and gradually become a great power of silk in the world.

REFERENCES [1]

Handed-down documents such as the Book of History and Shih Chi called Shang dynasty as “Yin”. However, earlier literatures such as Ancient Bamboo Annals called this dynasty as “Shang”. Modern Bamboo Annals called it as “Yinshang”

[2]

Traditional annals are calculated as BC 1618 to BC 1110 according to ancient and modern Bamboo Annals; Xia Shang Zhou Chronology Project is calculated as about BC 1610 ~ BC 1580 to BC 1046

[3]

Zhang Heng said in Western Capital Ode, “Yin people migrated frequently.” It means that Shang dynasty had migrated for eight times before Tang established Shang dynasty and its capital had changed for five times after Tang established Shang dynasty.

Tongjian Qianbian said, “He Danjia thought that there was the risk of breaching of dyke. Therefore, it should move to Xiang.”

[4]

Traditional annals are calculated as BC 1618 to BC 1110 according to ancient and modern Bamboo Annals; Xia Shang Zhou Chronology Project is calculated as about BC 1610 ~ BC 1580 to BC 1046

[5]

Shang (BC 1600 to BC 1046). Historical Story Network [Quoted on March 6, 2013]

[6]

Shang Dynasty. Chinese Children Art Education Network [Quoted on May 4, 2013]

[7]

Shang (BC 1600 to BC 1046). Historical Story Network [Quoted on January 13, 2013]

[8]

Origin and History of Shang Dynasty. Origin Network [Quoted on January 13, 2013]

[9]

Shang Dynasty Historical Essay (17th Century BC-11th Century BC). Warring State Period Network [Quoted on January 13, 2013]

[10] Introduction to Chinese Shang Dynasty. Political Document Network [Quoted on January 13, 2013] [11] Western Han Dynasty·Sima Qian. Shih Chi·Biography of Wu Qilie [12] Biographic Sketches of Ancient Emperor*Biographic Sketches of Shang. Central Plains News Network[Quoted on January 13, 2013] [13] Example Scheme of Clothing in Past Dynasties of China. Example Scheme of Clothing [Quoted on January 13, 2013] [14] Shang Dynasty - History of Shang Dynasty. History Network [Quoted on January 13, 2013] [15] Ma Dezhi: Report on Excavation in Dasikong Village, Anyang in 1953, Acta Archaeologica Sinica, Vol.9 1955, p55, Plate 17, 7 [16] Chen Weiji: History of Chinese Textile Science and Technology (Ancient Part), p94, Beijing, Science Press, 1984

AUTHORS Xingmei Guo, female, was born in 1969. She obtained the

Yiping Qiu, male, was born in 1955. Currently, he is the

doctorate from DHU (Donghua University) in the field of ancient

distinguished professor of DHU as the Dean of Textile College,

China textile. Email:gxm0704@126.com

as well as the director of the committee of key laboratory of the ministry of education in textile fabrics. In addition, he is doctoral supervisor, and member of ASCE (The American Society of Civil Engineers); The Fiber Society; Sigma Xi, The Scientific Research

Society;

and

SAMPE

(The

Society

for

the

Advancement of Material and Process Engineering). Meanwhile, he is the editor of Journal of Industrial Textiles.

Email: ypqiu@dhu.edu.cn

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