Men's Passion #68 - May 2015

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Passion for Precision

Haute horlogerie edition with Aurel Bacs


IFCS 1st HALF HUBLOT


IFCS 2nd HALF HUBLOT


corneliani.com







ISSUE NUMBER 68 - MAY 2015

JUST A THOUGHT Dear Passionate Readers, Some of the perks of working in the publishing and advertising field is that, every now and then, we get the opportunity to experience newly launched products, visit manufacturing plants, get to see the craftsmanship behind the legacy of brands, and basically live the passionate journey with all its refinement. This month, I was invited to attend the inauguration of the new marina in Al Khiran, La’la al Khiran, with its 410 berths. Though I was so excited at the thought of attending, I was not really looking forward to the long ride down there… To my good fortune and without any prior planning, I received a call from the Audi dealership with an offer to test drive their new TT Coupé on the same day of the event! You can only imagine how that changed my whole perspective of the day! What a car! What a ride! To anyone complaining about the roads conditions, I say… just get an Audi! Indeed, life is simply a matter of perceptive. Till the next issue,

Zeina Mokaddam Managing Director


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GUEST EDITOR’S LETTER

AUREL BACS This edition of MEN’S PASSION, for only the second time in our history, is headed by a Guest Editor. For our annual Watch Edition, there could be no finer gentleman to have worked with than Aurel Bacs. With 20 years of professional experience in the field of Collectors’ Watches, Aurel Bacs is an internationally recornized leading specialist in the watch market. As an auctioneer and watch specialist, Mr. Bacs has worked at various auction houses since 1995, most recently as the Head of the International Watch department at Christie’s. During his tenure, he oversaw an unprecedented growth for the firm, raising the department’s annual turnover from US$8million to over US$130million. Today, Mr. Bacs is an independent advisor to private collectors, manufacturers and museums in the field of high-end collectors’ watches and co-founder of Bacs & Russo SA. In this capacity, he has partnered with Phillips (one of the world’s big three auction houses) as exclusive consultant for their newly created watch department. Under Mr. Bacs curation, we’ve had revealed to us an exclusive view of the watch business with Jean-Claude Biver, Auro Montanari and MB&F’s Max Büsser, together with a special view of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (for which Mr. Bacs is Head of Jury) as well as a preview of highlights from Phillips’ forthcoming auction in Geneva. Aurel Bacs: Imagine, there is no heaven… John Lennon So I would say my vision for a per fect GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) reminds me ver y much of John Lennon’s famous song “Imagine”: “You may say I am a dreamer but I am not the only one... I hope you will join us and the world will be as one…” In other words I hope that all the watch manufactures participate regardless of their age, size, if they are independent or belong to a Group. Where winners and those that come in second or third celebrate the art of watchmaking and enjoy a fair competition year after year. Until then, I know, it is a lot of work and we need to continue innovating and improving the GPHG, year after year, and deliver a flawless and professional performance. I am ready to do it and I hope the world will join me soon!



ON THE COVER: May 2015 Fine timepieces are today’s ultimate expression of contemporary craftsmanship combined with traditions of the past. The movement illuminating our cover this month comes from the Grande Maison itself - Jaeger-LeCoultre. Founded in 1833, their pieces represent the perfect marriage of precision and elegance as the maison continues to push boundaries of watchmaking and to create movements once thought impossible to perfect. It is to those skilled craftsmen and women charged with creating such objects of desire that we dedicate our annual watch edition.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Amera Al-Awadhi LEGAL CONSULTANT Khaled Al-Kandari Al-Kandari Law Firm PUBLISHED BY

MANAGING DIRECTOR Zeina Mokaddam ACTING MANAGING DIRECTOR Nouf Al-Hajri MANAGING EDITOR Simon Balsom ACTING MANAGING EDITOR Katia Abbas

CONTENTS 16 Jean-Claude Biver President of the Watch Division, LVMH Group, and CEO of TAG Heuer 20 Auro Montanari 24 MB&F Changing the Face of Time 28 Phillips Auctions of Fine Collectors Watches Geneva, 9th and 10th May

30 32 36

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2015 Abdul Mohsen Behbehani Jaeger LeCoultre

40 Trafalgar Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow 46 Fadi Jawad 48 Baselworld 2015 Wrap

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Tarek Kabbani PR & SOCIAL MEDIA ANALYST Anju Kakkar HEAD OF PHOTOGRAPHY Maher Al-Nouri PRODUCTION MANAGER Jad Nahas

PH7 is a specialized publishing house based in Kuwait. Telephone +(965) 2572 0810 Fax +(965) 2572 0860 Website www.ph7-kw.com To maintain the desired quality of our publication, your contribution and feedback are welcomed. Please email your suggestions to zeina@ph7-kw.com For advertising, do not hesitate to contact info@ph7-kw.com For subscription, please email your details to info@ph7-kw.com PH7 wishes to state that the opinions expressed in MEN’S PASSION are those of the authors concerned and not necessarily those of the publisher. BPA Worldwide Consumer Publication Audit Membership Applied for September 2014.



THE LUXE REVIEW 64 Artist: Deema Al-Quraini

82 Burberry Prorsum Mens Spring / Summer 2015

66 68

86 Harvey Nichols Kuwait

Hybrid VIP transport Porsche x Jumeirah Messilah Beach

70

It All Starts With Michelin Tyres New Porsche Macan fitted with new Michelin Latitude Sport 3 tyres

The new Porsche roadster for purists

71 V-KOOL A heritage of trust, environment friendliness, and satisfied global consumers 72 Porsche Motorsport and Chopard at the Six Hours of Silverstone 74 Sheikh Abdullah Al-Mansour Al-Sabah Collector of Automobiles 80

A Dealer’s Story Fouad Alghanim Automotive in conversation with Tarek Al-Shafie, General Manager and Dealer Principal

90 92

Hackett London British Polo Day Maison De Sheikh When East meets West

94 ETERNITY Summer Calvin Klein 95 Tom Ford For Men Beard Oil And Comb 96 Rome 98 ZEITGEIST - Versace Home 2015 La Coupe Des Dieux Capsule Collection 100 The Superyacht Rendezvous Montenegro 102 Palm Beach 42 ‘Entry-level luxury’ 104 Events



THE TIMEKEEPER

Jean-Claude Biver

President of the Watch Division, LVMH Group, and CEO of TAG Heuer


B

THE TIMEKEEPER

orn in Luxembourg, his family moved to Switzerland when he was ten years old. He attended the Collège de Morges, obtained his maturité at the Lausanne Business School and completed his studies at the University of Lausanne. He seized the unique opportunity of a year’s “all-rounder” training offered to him by Audemars Piguet in 1975. In 1980, he left Audemars Piguet to join Omega as gold products manager. In 1982, he and his friend Jacques Piguet bought the Blancpain name which had been dormant since 1961. Using the slogan “Since 1735 there has never been a quartz Blancpain, and there never will be”, he quickly revived the company and increased the turnover to 50 million Swiss francs. In 1992 he decided to sell Blancpain to the SMH Group (later to become the Swatch Group) and joined Nicolas G. Hayek’s management team. As a member of the Swatch Group’s Management Committee, he was given the task of developing the marketing and products for the Omega brand, a company he had left ten years earlier. At the end of 2003, he decided to take a year’s sabbatical but he quickly changed his mind in order to take over the leadership of a small business founded in 1980: Hublot Geneva. In 2004, as CEO he decided to focus on Hublot’s original product and develop a new concept for the brand: “The Art of Fusion”. In fact, in 1980, Hublot was the first watchmaker to create a watch which fused different materials, by combining gold and rubber. The company owes its impressive growth to the boundless energy of its unique owner: the company’s economic growth, with turnover increasing in 4 years from 25 million to more than 200 million Swiss francs in 2008, when the brand was sold to LVMH.

MP: Looking across a broad view of the industry today – who do you

Hublot remains committed to traditional expertise, creating timepieces which bear the mark of the most talented master watchmakers. In this way, the brand represents the Art of Fusion between watchmaking culture and cutting-edge technical developments, between the past and the future... as, in the words of Jean-Claude Biver, “we are not breaking with the past, on the contrary we are paying homage to it by connecting it to the future”. In December 2014, as part of his continuing journey through the watch business, Biver was appointed CEO of TAG Heuer. In this exclusive interview he tells us a little about his present challenges, the future, and thoughts of his legacy.

JCB: Big groups have helped and encouraged brands to become more innovative in both the art of making watches as well as in sales and marketing. Competition therefore is considerably tougher and there is little place today for amateurs in our business.

MEN’S PASSION: You’ve spent your working life playing a key role

in building a global industry out of something that barely existed forty years ago. It appeared you might bow out of the industry altogether a couple of years ago. What tempted you to stay on at LVMH?

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER: Passion can never retire… My passion for my job and the watch industry made me stay at LVMH. I just hope my health will help me stay another five years - until the end of 2020 at least.

think is getting it spot-on in terms of combining genuine innovation and the correct marketing strategy? JCB: Many brands have started to understand that there is no future without innovation, and that tradition alone is not enough for the majority of the brands. Therefore I believe that there is much more innovation in technology and marketing than ever. Competition has become tougher and big groups much stronger. To succeed today, you really need a solid team with extensive experience of the watch market.

MP: Has the involvement of big luxury companies, such as your own, stifled innovation and encouraged brands to focus and compete for the same market?

MP: Is there still room in the market to see today’s small watchmakers,

working quietly, producing no more than a couple of hundred pieces, to become the big names of the future? Do you feel this can only happen with the involvement of a group such as LVMH? JCB: There is room of course for the ‘artisan’ as certain customers are more and more looking for exclusivities - special and unique pieces. As much as I believe that there is a future for these artisans, I am afraid to say that I doubt they might become big names in future. The time where a small artisan (such as Blancpain or Hublot) had a chance to build himself a big name is now over - or at least it is very rare, because of the level of investment in marketing, distribution and R&D.

MP: It’s a little early to be talking of this – but when the book

MP: With Blancpain and Hublot, you took brands that were

of your life is written, what would you like people to reflect on as being your enduring legacy?

JCB: The biggest challenge with TAG Heuer is the fact that it is a very profitable brand and also a very powerful and strong brand, which makes it totally different from restructuring a ‘non-existing’ brand. To be successful at TAG Heuer it is essential to understand its past and message, while with Blancpain and Hublot we could somehow invent its past and future.

JCB: I would like people to remember that I have shared my success with my team. That I have built a team that is now spread over several watch brands in Switzerland. Maybe my biggest contribution could be the number of people that have learned the business close to me, and that went on to other brands in order to continue their career as leaders. Discovering people and bringing them to leadership is the ultimate responsibility of any leader.

unfeasibly small and build them in to names of some significance and repute. What’s the challenge for you today at TAG Heuer?

16 17


‫‪THE TIMEKEEPER‬‬

‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‬

‫رئيس قسم الساعات في مجموعة ‪ LVMH‬والرئيس التنفيذي في تاغ هوير‬

‫سن العاشرة مع عائلته للعيش في سويسرا‪ .‬درس على مقاعد كلية مورج‬ ‫ثم انتقل وهو في‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُولد بيفير في لوكسمبورغ ّ‬ ‫أتم دراسته الجامعية في جامعة لوزان‪ .‬في العام‬ ‫وحصل على شهادة إتمام الدروس اإللزامية من كلية لوزان لألعمال وقد ّ‬ ‫قدمتها له دار “أوديمار بيغيه”‪ .‬وفي العام ‪،1980‬‬ ‫‪ ،1975‬اغتنم فرصة فريدة لالنضمام إلى برنامج تدريب سنوي شامل ّ‬ ‫غادر دار “أوديمار بيغيه” لينضم إلى دار “أوميغا” حيث عمل كمدير المنتجات الذهبية‪ .‬والحق ًا في العام ‪ 1982‬اشترى مع‬ ‫صديقه جاك بيغيه عالمة “بالنبان” (‪ )Blancpain‬التي كانت قد شهدت ركود ًا في األعمال منذ العام ‪ .1961‬وباالستعانة‬ ‫بشعار “منذ العام ‪ 1735‬لم ولن تُصنع ساعة بالنبان من الكوارتز”‪ ،‬سرعان ما انتعشت الشركة وارتفع رقم مبيعاتها ليصل‬ ‫إلى ‪ 50‬مليون فرنك سويسري‪.‬‬ ‫قرر بيفير بيع بالنبان إلى مجموعة ‪( SMH‬والتي‬ ‫في العام ‪ّ ،1992‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫الحقا مجموعة سواتش) وانضم إلى إدارة شركة نيكوال‬ ‫أصبحت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تول ى‬ ‫عضو ا في لجنة إدارة مجموعة سواتش‪،‬‬ ‫وبصفته‬ ‫حايك‪.‬‬ ‫جورج‬ ‫ً‬ ‫مهم ة تطوير المنتجات وتسويقها لصالح عالمة أوميغا التجارية‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بعدما كان قد ترك هذه الشركة منذ عشر سنوات‪ .‬وفي نهاية العام‬ ‫قرر أن يأخذ إجازة السنة السابعة ّإل ّأن ه سرعان أن عدل عن‬ ‫‪ّ ،2003‬‬ ‫تأس ست في العام‬ ‫التي‬ ‫الصغيرة‬ ‫الشركات‬ ‫إحدى‬ ‫قيادة‬ ‫ليتولى‬ ‫قراره‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫قرر‬ ‫‪ 1980‬وهي هوبلوت جنيف ((‪ .Hublot Geneva‬في العام ‪ّ ،2004‬‬ ‫في سياق عمله كرئيس تنفيذي التركيز على أصالة منتجات هوبلوت‬ ‫«فن المزج»‪.‬‬ ‫وبدأ بتطوير مفهوم جديد للعالمة التجارية‪ ،‬أال وهو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يقدم‬ ‫ساعات‬ ‫وبالفعل‪ ،‬كانت هوبلوت في العام ‪ 1980‬أول صانع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫سي ما الذهب والمطاط‪.‬‬ ‫تم فيها المزج بين مواد مختلفة وال‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ساعة ّ‬ ‫ولم يكن النمو الهائل للشركة ّإل حصيلة الطاقة الهائلة التي بذلها‬ ‫ً‬ ‫اقتصاديا وازداد رقم‬ ‫نمو ا‬ ‫مالكها المنقطع النظير‪ .‬فقد شهدت‬ ‫ًّ‬ ‫مبيعاتها في خالل أربع سنوات من ‪ 25‬مليون إلى أكثر من ‪200‬‬ ‫مليون فرنك سويسري في العام ‪ 2008‬عند بيعها لمجموعة ‪.LVMH‬‬ ‫ال تحيد هوبلوت عن المخزون من الخبرات التقليدية وصنع ساعات‬ ‫تحمل ختم أمهر صانعي الساعات الموهوبين‪ .‬وبذلك‪ ،‬ترقى العالمة‬ ‫فن المزج بين ثقافة صناعة الساعات وأحدث‬ ‫التجارية لشعارها وهو ّ‬ ‫التطورات التقنية في الماضي والمستقبل‪ ...‬ويقول جان‪-‬كلود‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بيفير‪« ،‬نحن ال ننقطع عن الماضي ال بل على العكس‪ ،‬نحيي أمجاده‬ ‫عن طريق ربطه بالمستقبل‪ ».‬في ديسمبر من العام ‪ ،2014‬وكفصل‬ ‫تم‬ ‫آخر ُي ضاف إلى مسيرته المستمرة في عالم صناعة الساعات‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تنفيذيا لمجموعة تاغ هوير‪ .‬وبعد أن حصلنا‬ ‫رئيس ا‬ ‫تعيين بيفير‬ ‫ً‬ ‫يسر إلينا ببعض التحديات الحالية‬ ‫هو‬ ‫ها‬ ‫معه‪،‬‬ ‫حصرية‬ ‫على مقابلة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مر السنوات‪.‬‬ ‫على‬ ‫بناه‬ ‫الذي‬ ‫باإلرث‬ ‫وبرأيه‬ ‫والمستقبلية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ :MEN’S PASSION‬خالل أربعين سنة‪ ،‬قمت بدور محوري في بناء‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تقريبا‪ .‬هذه باختصار مسيرتك المهنية‪.‬‬ ‫قطاع عالمي من العدم‬ ‫وكنت قد أوحيت ّ‬ ‫بأن ك ستترك القطاع بأسره قبل بضع سنوات‪ .‬ما‬ ‫غرك للبقاء في مجموعة ‪LVMH‬؟‬ ‫الذي ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫أبدا‪...‬‬ ‫سن التقاعد‬ ‫جان‪ -‬كلود بيفير‪ :‬ال يمكن للشغف أن يبلغ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فأنا شغوف بعملي وبقطاع صناعة الساعات وهذا سبب بقائي في‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ّ .LVMH‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫صح تي لالستمرار‬ ‫أتمن اه هو أن تسعفني‬ ‫كل ما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لفترة خمس سنوات أخرى‪ -‬حتى نهاية العام ‪ 2020‬على األقل‪.‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫جدا كبالنبان‬ ‫تول يت عالمات تجارية صغيرة‬ ‫‪ :MEN’S PASSION‬لقد‬ ‫وهوبلوت وصنعت منها أسماء المعة وشهرة ذائعة‪ .‬ما هو التحدي‬ ‫المقبل الذي ينتظرك اليوم في تاغ هوير؟‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يتمث ل أكبر التحديات اليوم في تاغ هوير في ّأن ها‬ ‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‪:‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫عالمة تجارية تحقق أرباحا كبيرة عدا عن ّأن ها عالمة راسخة ومرغوبة‬ ‫ً‬ ‫أساسا‪ ،‬ما يجعلها مختلفة عن جهود إعادة تنظيم عالمة تكاد تكون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يتطل ب بشكل أساسي‬ ‫«غير موجودة»‪ .‬تحقيق النجاح في تاغ هوير‬

‫أم ا بالنسبة لبالنبان وهوبلوت‪،‬‬ ‫فهم ماضيها والرسالة التي تحملها‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ماض ومستقبل لهما‪.‬‬ ‫ل‬ ‫تخي‬ ‫تمك نا بشكل من األشكال من‬ ‫فنحن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫‪ :MEN’S PASSION‬إذا ما ألقينا نظرة شاملة على قطاع صناعة‬ ‫بنجاح برأيك من حيث مزج االبتكار األصيل‬ ‫الساعات اليوم‪ ،‬من يعمل‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫مع االستراتيجية التسويقية المناسبة؟‬ ‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‪ :‬بدأ الكثير من العالمات التجارية يدرك ّأل مستقبل‬ ‫وأن التقاليد وحدها لم تعد كافية الستمرارية غالبية‬ ‫من دون ابتكار‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫العالمات التجارية‪ .‬ولذلك‪ ،‬فأنا أرى ّ‬ ‫ابتكارا في التكنولوجيا‬ ‫أنن ا نشهد‬ ‫والتسويق أكثر من أي وقت مضى‪ .‬فالمنافسة تزداد شراسة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يتوق ف على‬ ‫قوة‪ .‬والواقع أن النجاح اليوم‬ ‫والمصن عون الكبار يزدادون ّ‬ ‫فريق متكامل وبارع وذي معرفة واسعة بسوق صناعة الساعات‪.‬‬

‫‪ :MEN’S PASSION‬هل ترى أن ابدي الشركات الفاخرة الكبرى في‬ ‫ً‬ ‫وتشج ع العالمات التجارية على‬ ‫تكب ل االبتكار‬ ‫مثل‪،‬‬ ‫القطاع‪ ،‬كشركتك‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التركيز والتنافس على سوق واحدة فقط؟‬ ‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‪ :‬لقد ساعدت المجموعات الكبيرة العالمات التجارية‬ ‫ً‬ ‫فن صنع الساعة نفسها ّ‬ ‫فن‬ ‫وإن ما‬ ‫أيضا في ّ‬ ‫وشج عتها على االبتكار في ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اشتدت المنافسة ولم يعد هناك فسحة أمام‬ ‫المبيع والتسويق‪ .‬ولذلك‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫دخول من يمكن وصفهم بالهواة في مجال عملنا في الوقت الحاضر‪.‬‬ ‫‪ :MEN’S PASSION‬هل ما زال السوق ّ‬ ‫يت سع لصغار مصنعي‬ ‫بصمت إلنتاج ما ال يزيد عن بضع مئات‬ ‫الساعات الذين يعملون‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بأن ذلك‬ ‫من الساعات لكي يلمع اسمهم في المستقبل؟ أم تشعر ّ‬ ‫ممكن فقط عندما تدعمهم مجموعة كبرى مثل ‪LVMH‬؟‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫«للحرفي ين»‪،‬‬ ‫أن المجال مفتوح‬ ‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‪ :‬من‬ ‫المؤك د ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الممي زة‬ ‫الساعات‬ ‫أي‬ ‫–‬ ‫الحصرية‬ ‫التصاميم‬ ‫وراء‬ ‫فبعض العمالء يسعى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بأن المستقبل يفتح ذراعيه لهؤالء‬ ‫يقين‬ ‫على‬ ‫والفريدة‪ .‬وبقدر ما أنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بأن الحظ قد ال يسعفهم في تحقيق‬ ‫الحرفيين‪ ،‬يؤسفني القول‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لحرفي صغير‬ ‫يمكن‬ ‫حيث‬ ‫الزمن‬ ‫ى‬ ‫ول‬ ‫لقد‬ ‫بها‪.‬‬ ‫النجومية التي يحلمون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫(مثل بالنبان أو هوبلوت) انتهاز الفرصة وبناء اسم مرموق‪ ،‬أو في‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وستتوق ف على حجم‬ ‫جدا‬ ‫أحسن األحوال ستكون فرصهم ضئيلة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ضخ ه في التسويق والتوزيع واألبحاث والتطوير‪.‬‬ ‫يتم‬ ‫االستثمار الذي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ :MEN’S PASSION‬قد يكون من المبكر الحديث عن ذلك – ولكن عندما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تفضل أن يذكرك الناس عند الحديث عن إرثك؟‬ ‫سيتم تدوين كتاب حياتك بم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يتذك ره الناس هو ّأن ني قد أشركت فريقي‬ ‫أود أن‬ ‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‪ :‬ما ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عدة عالمات تجارية‬ ‫على‬ ‫اليوم‬ ‫أعضاؤه‬ ‫ع‬ ‫يتوز‬ ‫فريقا‬ ‫في نجاحي‪ .‬لقد بنيت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أن أكبر مساهمة لي تكمن في عدد‬ ‫أعتبر‬ ‫وأنا‬ ‫سويسرا‪.‬‬ ‫للساعات في‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ثم‬ ‫األشخاص الذين تعل موا هذه ّ‬ ‫الص نعة بفضل عملهم معي عن قرب‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ليتول وا مناصب رفيعة‪ .‬وأنا أؤمن أن‬ ‫توج هوا إلى عالمات تجارية أخرى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اكتشاف األشخاص وإدخالهم عالم القيادة هي من مسؤولية ّ‬ ‫كل قائد‪.‬‬


THE TIMEKEEPER

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THE COLLECTOR

Auro Montanari

A

uro Montanari has been collecting and studying vintage watches for 37 years, and still spends many hours browsing through watch shops, museums, flea markets and auctions. He is a true horological scholar and serious collector of the highest order, synonymous with expertise, quality, discretion and taste. Auro is perhaps best-known to watch lovers by his pseudonym, John Goldberger, as the author of 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, Patek Philippe Watches, Longines Watches and Omega Watches. “When I started collecting, 37 years ago”, he recalls, “it was very hard to find information to assist my research”. Indeed, collecting was a notably time-intensive task, and one that required a great deal of detective-work. “The first book on wristwatches was only published in 1983 (Armbanduhren by Callwey, Germany), and the wristwatches only began to appear in auction catalogues in 1980 (Antiquorum, Geneva)”, Montanari tells us. At this time, even the Swiss factories did not yet organize their archives. All this meant that information was hard to come by. In the last fifteen years with benefit of the Internet, the community of watch-collectors and dealers is closer and more interwoven, and today there exists a great exchange of information. An avid and constant researcher, Montanari says “The key to finding exceptional timepieces to publish in my books is though painstaking research. I work in collaboration with some of the most renowned collectors and dealers in the world, these are the people who know all the stories! For my books the companies (Patek Philippe, Omega, Longines) help me to find in their archives all the information regarding the date of manufacturing, reference number, country of sale and type of movement. Unfortunately however, Rolex does not have a well organized archive, and their company policy is to be very secretive - they do not release any extracts of their archives.

What are the key attributes you look for in a piece before adding it to your collection? Beauty, quality and rarity.

Where are the best places to look? Certainly auction houses, what about back-streets and flea markets – is there still a possibility to find rare pieces in unusual places? The auction houses are a good place to find interesting watches, but the dealers around the world are still the better source. For this reason, today collectors are more likely to hunt the web than flea markets. The new generation of collectors have good eyes to analyze all a watch’s details on a laptop, but not enough knowledge to discover a rare bird in a “Marché aux Puces”.


THE COLLECTOR

What are the mistakes you see inexperienced collectors make, what are the pitfalls to be avoided? The five golden rules of collecting are: 1 - Collect what you like, do not follow the common trend; 2 - Make no compromises on dedication and discipline, buy only watches with correct configurations and in perfect condition; 3 - Buy the seller, not the watch; 4 - Be humble, lower your ego, don’t be in competition with other collectors; 5- Read books, look on the Internet, browse auction catalogues, visit museums, have good relations with the entire watch community (dealers, auction’s houses and other collectors).

Looking at the current market performance, which are the brands that you regard as undervalued? This is an excellent question. Everyone wants to know what brands now will gain value with time, but now the most undervalued timepieces on the market are the vintage wrist and pocket watches by Patek Philippe.

Which are your three favourite watches from your own collection? 1 - a unique white gold retrograde calendar perpetual by Breguet manufactured in 1937 2 - A platinum Cartier tank cintré with its original platinum bracelet manufactured in 1927 3 - A pink gold chronograph perpetual calendar Patek Philippe ref. 2499 manufactured in 1957, of which there are only 10 known examples.

Which timepiece is, for you, the horological ‘Holy Grail’ – the one you would most like to own? My “Holy Grail” is the stainless steel Patek Philippe with reference 1518, there are only 5 known examples in the world. I find its design and its essential geometry make this one of the most beautiful wristwatches ever designed and engineered. The 1518 is a unique milestone in the history of wristwatches: it was the first wristwatch ever marketed that featured chronograph functions combined with perpetual calendar and moon phases.

20 21


‫‪THE COLLECTOR‬‬

‫أورو مونتاناري‬ ‫هاوي جمع الساعات‬

‫عاما وما زال يقضي ساعات طويلة في أرجاء متاجر بيع‬ ‫يقوم أورو مونتاناري بجمع الساعات القديمة ودراستها منذ ‪37‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫وهاو كبير لجمع الساعات من‬ ‫الساعات والمتاحف وأسواق البرغوث والمزادات‪ .‬إنّه عالم حقيقي في فن صناعة الساعات‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ذواقة الساعات باسمه المستعار‬ ‫أفخم األنواع‪ .‬اسمه يذكرك بالخبرات والجودة ال بل‬ ‫بالتبصر والذوق ً‬ ‫أيضا‪ .‬ولربما يعرفه ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫جون غولبرغر‪ .‬هو صانع ‪ 100‬من ساعات رولكس وباتك فيليب ولونجين وأوميغا الفاخرة‪.‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫قائل‪« :‬عندما بدأت بجمع الساعات منذ ‪ 37‬سنة كان من‬ ‫يستذكر‬ ‫علي إيجاد معلومات لمساعدتي في القيام بأبحاثي‪».‬‬ ‫ا‬ ‫جد‬ ‫الصعب‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫شك بأن جمع الساعات هو إحدى المهمات التي تستنفذ الوقت‬ ‫ال‬ ‫الكبير وهي تتطلب الكثير من التقصي والبحث»‪ .‬ويقول مونتاناري‪:‬‬ ‫«نُ شر أول كتاب عن ساعات اليد في العام ‪( 1983‬كتاب آرمباندوهرن‬ ‫بقلم كالوي في ألمانيا) ولم تظهر ساعات اليد في كتالوجات‬ ‫المزادات ّإل في العام ‪( 1980‬أنتيكوروم‪ ،‬جنيف)‪ .‬في هذا الوقت‪،‬‬ ‫حتى المصانع السويسرية لم تقم بتنظيم أرشيفاتها‪ّ .‬‬ ‫كل ذلك يعني‬ ‫أمرا صعب المنال»‪.‬‬ ‫بأن الحصول على المعلومات كان ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تعززت األواصر‬ ‫في السنوات الخمس عشرة األخيرة وبفضل اإلنترنت‪،‬‬ ‫بين مجتمع هواة جمع الساعات ووكالء البيع والتوزيع‪ .‬وكذلك نشهد‬ ‫ً‬ ‫كبيرا في المعلومات‪.‬‬ ‫تبادل‬ ‫ً‬ ‫مجد ويعمل بال كلل ويقول‪« ،‬إن البحث‬ ‫مونتاناري هو شخص باحث‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المضني هو أساسي إليجاد ساعات مميزة بالفعل لنشرها في‬ ‫كتبي‪ .‬وفي سبيل ذلك‪ ،‬أتعاون مع هواة وموزعين من بين األكثر‬ ‫شهرة في العالم‪ .‬فهم َم ن يعرف كل األخبار! وكذلك تساعدني ُد ور‬ ‫الساعات (باتك فيليب وأوميغا ولونجين) أثناء عملي على كتبي في‬ ‫يخص تاريخ التصنيع والرقم‬ ‫إيجاد المعلومات في أرشيفاتهم فيما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المرجعي وبلد المبيع ونوع الحركة‪ .‬ولكن لسوء الحظ‪ ،‬ال يوجد أرشيف‬ ‫منظم بشكل جيد عند رولكس وتعتمد سياسة الشركة لديهم على‬ ‫السرية التامة – فهم ال ينشرون أي مقتطفات من أرشيفهم‪.‬‬

‫ما هي المزايا الرئيسية التي تبحث عنها في القطعة قبل‬ ‫إضافتها إلى مجموعتك؟‬ ‫أنا أهتم بجمال القطعة وجودتها وندرتها‪.‬‬

‫ما هي الهفوات التي قد يرتكبها هواة جمع الساعات‬ ‫الجدد وما هي السقطات التي يمكن تجنبها؟‬ ‫يمكنني القول إن القواعد الذهبية لجمع الساعات هي خمس كالتالي‪:‬‬ ‫• اجمع ما تحب وال تتبع االتجاه السائد فقط؛‬ ‫اشتر فقط الساعات ذات‬ ‫• ال تساوم على الدقة وضبط الوقت‪،‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫اإلعدادات الصحيحة والتي تكون بحالة صالحة‪.‬‬ ‫اشتر البائع وليس الساعة فقط؛‬ ‫•‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫متواضع ا‪ ،‬اكبح كبرياءك وال تدخل في منافسة مع هواة‬ ‫• كن‬ ‫ً‬ ‫الجمع اآلخرين؛‬ ‫• إقرأ الكتب وتصفح اإلنترنت وكتيبات المزادات‪ .‬إحرص على زيارة‬ ‫وابن عالقات إيجابية مع كامل األطراف في عالم الساعات‬ ‫المتاحف‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫(الموزعون ودور المزادات وهواة الجمع اآلخرين)‪.‬‬

‫حاليا‪ ،‬أي العالمات التجارية‬ ‫إذا ما أجرينا مراجعة ألداء السوق‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تعتبر منقوصة القيمة؟‬ ‫سؤالك ممتاز‪ .‬أال يرغب الجميع بمعرفة أي عالمات تجارية ستزيد‬ ‫قيمتها مع الوقت؟ اآلن معظم الساعات التي تتناقص قيمتها في‬ ‫السوق هي ساعات اليد والجيب القديمة من باتك فيليب‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المفض لة من مجموعتك الخاصة؟‬ ‫ما هي ساعاتك الثالث‬ ‫• ساعة بتقويم ارتجاعي أبدي مصنوعة من الذهب األبيض فريدة‬ ‫من نوعها من صنع بريغي ‪ُ Breguet‬ص نعت في العام ‪1937‬‬ ‫• ساعة كارتييه تانك سينتري من البالتين ويعود تاريخ صناعة‬ ‫سوارها البالتيني األصلي إلى العام ‪1927‬‬ ‫• ساعة كرونوغراف بتقويم أبدي مصنوعة من الذهب الوردي من‬ ‫باتك فيليب ورقمها المرجعي ‪ 2499‬ويعود تاريخها إلى العام ‪1957‬‬ ‫حالي ا عشر فقط‪.‬‬ ‫ويوجد منها‬ ‫ً‬

‫ما هي أفضل األماكن للبحث عن الساعات؟ بالتأكيد يجب‬ ‫زيارة دور المزادات‪ ،‬ولكن ماذا عن األزقة وأسواق البرغوث‪-‬‬ ‫قطعا نادرة في أماكن غريبة؟‬ ‫هل ُيعقل أن يجد المرء‬ ‫ً‬

‫أي من الساعات تعتبرها «فخر» صناعة الساعات – وهي‬ ‫التي ترغب في امتالكها أكثر من أي شيء آخر؟‬

‫القي مة‪ .‬ويبقى الموزعون‬ ‫تُ عتبر دور المزادات مناسبة إليجاد الساعات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من حول العالم أفضل مصدر لها‪ .‬ولذلك يقوم هواة جمع الساعات‬ ‫بالبحث على اإلنترنت أكثر مما يبحثون في أسواق البرغوث‪ .‬ويتمتع‬ ‫الجيل الجديد من هواة الجمع بنظرة حصيفة لتحليل كافة تفاصيل‬ ‫الساعة من على حاسوبهم ولكن ذلك ليس بالقدر الكافي من‬ ‫المعرفة إليجاد ساعة نادرة في سوق البرغوث‪.‬‬

‫ما أعتبره «فخر» صناعة الساعات هي ساعة من الفوالذ المقاوم من‬ ‫صنع باتك فيليب ورقمها المرجعي ‪ .1518‬وقد بقي منها ‪ 5‬فقط‬ ‫حول العالم‪ .‬أجد في تصميمها وهندستها األساسية أجمل ساعة يد‬ ‫ُص ّم مت وتمت هندستها‪ .‬ساعة ‪ 1518‬هي من المحطات الرئيسية‬ ‫في تاريخ صناعة ساعات اليد‪ .‬وهي أول ساعة يد تم تسويقها وكان‬ ‫فيها وظائف كرونوغراف مع تقويم ونافذة لمراحل القمر‪.‬‬


THE COLLECTOR

-

- Sharq

- Kuwait City

- Sharq

- Fahaheel International intoptique Optique


THE MAISON

MB&F

M

Changing the Face of Time

B&F was established in 2008 based around one very simple and fundamental ideal: to assemble dedicated Collectives of talented horological artisans, artists and professionals – all friends – to design and craft each year a radical and original horological masterpiece. By nurturing teams of talented individuals, harnessing their passion and creativity and crediting each individual’s essential role, MB&F uses their synergy to become much greater than the sum of its parts. MB&F is above all a human adventure... a human adventure with just one goal: to create incredible horological machines. We met the enigmatic Max Büsser (the eponymous MB of MB&F) to learn more. Having just returned from Baselworld, where MB&F presented their pieces in ‘The Palace’, the show’s hub of creativity and (dare we use the term) ‘coolness’, Büsser held more than 85 hours of dawn-til-dusk commercial meetings within the week. He’s now sitting, relaxed and shoeless, in his new home in Dubai. Relocating from the watchmaker’s heartland of Switzerland is proving to be no bad thing for Max and MB&F, for while his skills and those of his ‘friends’ are rooted in centuries of history, anyone who knows him also knows he goes about things really rather differently to the rest of the industry.

I ’m i n t e re s t e d t o k n ow h ow yo u s e e yo u r s e l f. D u r i n g t h o s e 8 5 h o u r s , yo u’re n o t b e i n g c re a t i ve; yo u’re b e i n g a b u s i n e s s m a n . I s t h a t h ow yo u a re re q u i re d t o s e e yo u r s e l f m o re a n d m o re t h e s e d a y s? It’s an interesting question that. There’s a price on being creative today, and that price is pretty high. People who just want to be creators and not do all the grinding – either they are, and will always be, penniless artists, or they’re about to disappear. In a small number of cases though, they get extremely lucky and survive to success. Essentially, I created the MB&F brand so that I could create whatever I believed in. That is the first and most important part of MB&F. I’m also probably the only person in the watch industry that will admit to being proud of being selfish. Creatively this is 100% what I believe in – and I do spend a lot of my time thinking “is anyone else going to want to wear this?” Essentially, and crucially, the 48 year-old Büsser has created a brand, and is creating products, that remain true to himself. After fourteen years at the very top of the watch industry with both Jaeger-LeCoultre and Harry Winston (for whom he created the iconic Opus line of watches), he is today creating his own legacy. He insists, “the most important day of your life is not the day you’re born, the day you marry, nor the day your first child is born – it’s the day you die. On that day you’d better be sure you have no regrets”.


THE MAISON

He demonstrated a huge leap of faith in himself by moving from the relative ‘safety’ of top jobs within the most prestigious of houses within the watch industry. One senses that he clearly has no regrets.

What has been the most difficult part of establishing yourself as a brand? There have been a ton of things! First of all, and this is something that many creators choose to forget, is a thing called ‘cashflow’. I created the company from my savings – we’ve never put any more money in and we don’t want to. But this meant things were very tight to begin with. We had around £500,000 to start the business. It’s not a small sum of money – but truthfully if you want to start a watch brand you’d better have ten-times that amount. I had to make that money generate the next money to be reinvested. Everything circulates around that. And it wasn’t easy, even last year, although he has turnover and there is value in his brand, the decision to move to tow collections a year nearly stretch the company too far. This is the life of a true entrepreneur.

Have you ever been tempted to find an easier route to success? Absolutely not. The one thing that I’ve always been clear about, and never deviated from, is my resolve to always do the things I want to do, and to do them with people I want to do them with. I work with people who I can trust and admire. I work with retailers who I trust and respect – and it’s mutual. In many senses the easiest part and the toughest part it to stay true to this line. There could have been easier routes to build the business – but they would all have involved a compromise that I was never prepared to take.

What’s your view on the watchmaking business as a whole? What’s your view of their creativity? The industry today is very different to the industry I joined 24 years ago. At that time, we were all broke. We were just trying to survive. We were full of passion, and trying to persuade people not to buy that super-cheap, efficient and effective timekeeper in quartz, and instead to buy our really expensive, unreliable and inaccurate mechanical timepiece. People would say to us “you’re insane, aren’t you?”, to which we would reply honestly “no, it’s just so beautiful”. Those were tough, but incredible days. We were all small family businesses then, and we all helped each other. What has arisen since is a thing called ‘share-holder value’. When I joined Jaeger-LeCoultre twenty-four years ago we were turning over around 17 million Swiss Francs.

Today it is estimated to be doing 750 million. Clearly, today, the incentive to create is not the same as it was before. That’s what I consider whenever I look at a brand. I look at why it exists. Is it just to maximize shareholder value, or is it to deliver a pureness of design and style. MB&F and Max Büsser represent a refreshing return to the insanity of the industry in the 1970s. Theirs is a passion that is purely focused on the beauty of the form. You’ll see, illuminating these pages, timepieces like no other. Max creates them because he can, essentially because a force within him compels him to. Today MB&F create just 300 pieces per year. And that’s the level at which Max will keep it. There’s certainly hunger in the market for more pieces – he currently has just over 40 retailers spread across the globe, with a similar number knocking at his door – but he’s content with what he’s doing. To increase the business may involve compromising his strict integrity. And as we’ve learned, this is something he’ll never do. MB&F will continue to fuse traditional watchmaking of the highest craftsmanship with an artistic approach to create three-dimensional kinetic sculptures. MB&F’s audacious Machines respect but are not constrained by tradition, and their ramifications remain profound.

24 25


‫‪THE MAISON‬‬

‫ما كانت أصعب مرحلة في تأسيس عالمتك التجارية؟‬ ‫ً‬ ‫أول صعوبة في‬ ‫مررت بالكثير الكثير من المراحل الصعبة!‬ ‫طوع ا‪ .‬لقد‬ ‫«السيولة»‪ ،‬وهو ما ينساه الكثير من المبدعين‬ ‫ً‬ ‫فلس ا بالزائد فيها‪.‬‬ ‫مد خراتي‪ ،‬ولم أستثمر‬ ‫أس ست الشركة من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ولكن ذلك عنى لنا بأننا كنا في ضائقة مالية‪ .‬بدأنا أعمالنا بمبلغ‬ ‫‪ 500,000‬باوند‪ .‬وهو ليس بالمبلغ القليل – ولكن بصراحة إذا ما‬ ‫أردت تأسيس عالمة تجارية للساعات فعليك ضخ عشرة أضعاف‬ ‫ثم إعادة‬ ‫ذلك المبلغ‪ .‬كان‬ ‫علي أن أجني األرباح لتوليد اإليرادات ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وكل المراحل تمحورت حول هذه النقطة‪.‬‬ ‫استثمارها‪.‬‬ ‫لم يكن باألمر‬ ‫والقيمة التي‬ ‫مجموعاته من‬ ‫تكون حياة رائد‬

‫السهل وحتى في السنة الماضية برغم المدخول‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تول دها عالمته التجارية‪ .‬وكان لقراره بتقريب‬ ‫سنة إلى أخرى أثر كبير على الشركة‪ .‬ولكن هكذا‬ ‫األعمال الحقيقي‪.‬‬

‫هل وردت لك فكرة إيجاد طريقة أسهل للوصول إلى‬ ‫النجاح؟ الفكرة مغرية‪ ،‬أليس كذلك؟‬ ‫ً‬ ‫أود‬ ‫صريح ا ولم‬ ‫إطالق ا‪ ،‬فأنا لطالما كنت‬ ‫ً‬ ‫أحد عن قراري بأن أفعل ما ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫فعله ومع األشخاص الذين أرغب بفعل ذلك معهم‪ .‬أنا أعمل مع‬ ‫مم ن أثق بهم وأحترمهم‪،‬‬ ‫من أثق‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وأحب ‪ .‬أنا أعمل مع بائعي تجزئة ّ‬ ‫والشعور مشترك‪ .‬ومن عدة جوانب يكون أصعب ما يكون وأسهل‬ ‫وفي ا لهذا النهج‪ .‬يمكن أن‬ ‫األمور في الوقت عينه أن يبقى المرء‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ً‬ ‫سبل أسهل لبناء األعمال‪ -‬ولكن عليه المساومة‬ ‫يختار الشخص‬ ‫مستعد ا لفعله على اإلطالق‪.‬‬ ‫في مكان ما وهو ما لم أكن‬ ‫ً‬

‫ما هو منظورك لصناعة الساعات بشكل عام؟ وما رأيك‬ ‫باالبتكار فيها؟‬ ‫ً‬ ‫عام ا‪ .‬حينها‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫جميعا‬ ‫كن ا‬ ‫عم ا كان عليه منذ ‪ً 24‬‬ ‫واقع الصناعة اليوم مختلف ّ‬ ‫مفلسين‪ .‬وكنا نحاول تأمين مقومات بقائنا‪ .‬كان الشغف يسكننا وكنا‬ ‫نحاول إقناع الناس ّ‬ ‫جدا التي ّ‬ ‫تت سم بالكفاءة‬ ‫بأل يشتروا الساعات الرخصية ً‬ ‫والفعالية وتشير إلى الوقت بدقة والمصنوعة من الكوارتز‪ .‬بل ّ‬ ‫كن ا نحاول‬ ‫إقناعهم بشراء ساعاتنا الباهظة الثمن والتي ال يمكن االعتماد عليها والتي‬ ‫يردون علينا قائلين‪« ،‬أنتم مجانين‪،‬‬ ‫ال تشير إلى الوقت بدقة‪ .‬وكان الناس ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وكن ا نرد عليهم بصراحة «ال‪ ،‬إنها في غاية الجمال»‪ .‬لقد‬ ‫ألستم كذلك؟»‬ ‫كانت تلك أيام صعبة ولكنها رائعة‪ .‬لقد ّ‬ ‫جميع ا مؤسسات أعمال‬ ‫كن ا‬ ‫ً‬ ‫عائلية وصغيرة وكان ّ‬ ‫كل ّ‬ ‫يمد يد العون لآلخر‪.‬‬ ‫من ا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تغي ر هو بروز ما يسمى «بقيمة المساهم»‪ .‬عندما بدأت عملي‬ ‫ما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عام ا ّ‬ ‫كن ا نتعامل بأرباح بقيمة‬ ‫أربع وعشرين‬ ‫مع جيجر لوكولتر منذ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫المقدر ّأن ها تحقق ‪750‬‬ ‫أم ا اليوم‪ ،‬فمن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ 17‬مليون فرنك سويسري‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫مليون ا‪ .‬ومن الواضح بأن اليوم الحافز لالبتكار لم يعد كالسابق‪.‬‬ ‫وهذا ما أفكر به عندما أنظر في عالمة تجارية ما‪ :‬أنا أفكر في سبب‬ ‫حصرا أو أنها موجودة‬ ‫وجودها‪ .‬هل هو لزيادة قيمة المساهم‬ ‫ً‬ ‫لتقديم نقاوة وصفاء التصميم واألسلوب؟‬

‫ً‬ ‫إيجابي ا شهده القطاع‬ ‫منعطف ا‬ ‫يمثل وجود ماكس بوسر و ‪MB&F‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫حصرا على جمال الشكل‪ .‬وكما‬ ‫في السبعينات‪ .‬فشغفه يتركز‬ ‫ً‬ ‫سترون‪ ،‬تزهو صفحاتنا بساعات ال مثيل لها‪ .‬ماكس يبتكرها‬ ‫تحركه وتدفعه نحو‬ ‫ألنه قادر على ذلك وألن داخله يزخر بطاقة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫هذا االبتكار‪.‬‬ ‫اليوم‪ ،‬تقدم ‪ MB&F 300‬ساعة في السنة‪ .‬وهذا هو المستوى الذي‬ ‫سيحافظ عليه ماكس‪ ،‬برغم وجود طلب في السوق عليها‪ .‬لهذه‬ ‫حالي ا‬ ‫وثم ة عدد مماثل يقرع بابه‬ ‫الدار ‪ 40‬متجر بيع حول العالم‪،‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫راض عن أدائه الحالي‪ .‬فزيادة‬ ‫ولكنه‬ ‫ليحصل على وكالة توزيعها‪،‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫رقم األعمال قد تنطوي على مساومات غير مقبولة بالنسبة له‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تضخ في عالم صناعة الساعات التقليدية‬ ‫ستبقى ‪MB&F‬‬ ‫مصم م لصنع‬ ‫فني‬ ‫نهج‬ ‫على‬ ‫المنطوية‬ ‫الحرفية‬ ‫ساعاتها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫منحوتات حركية ثالثية األبعاد‪ .‬وما تنتجه ‪ MB&F‬يجل التقاليد‬ ‫التقي د بها برغم أن التقاليد‬ ‫ويوقرها ولكنها ال تقع فريسة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تطبعها بطابع جلي وواضح‪.‬‬


‫‪THE MAISON‬‬

‫‪MB&F‬‬

‫تغيير مفهوم الوقت‬

‫تأسست دار ‪ MB&F‬في العام ‪ 2008‬وهي ترتكز في عملها على فكرة بسيطة وأساسية‪ :‬وهي تشكيل فريق من عدة‬ ‫للتفرغ لغرض واحد وهو تصميم تحفة فنية بحرفية منقطعة النظير‬ ‫حرفيين وفنانين واحترافيين موهوبين وأصدقاء‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تستمد الدار منهم‬ ‫تضم أفرادا موهوبين وإسناد دور أساس لكل منهم‪،‬‬ ‫كل عام‪ .‬ومن خالل احتضان فرق العمل التي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشغف واالبتكار وتحصل على تضافر جهود يفوق عمل ّ‬ ‫منفردا‪ .‬الدار هي بالدرجة األولى “مغامرة لإلنسان”‬ ‫كل واحد منهم‬ ‫ً‬ ‫هدفها واحد فقط‪ ،‬أال وهو ابتكار ساعات خارقة‪ .‬وقد التقينا بالسيد ماكس بوسر المعروف بسحره وإطاللته (والذي من‬ ‫أحرف اسمه األولى ‪ MB‬اتخذت العالمة التجارية اسمها ‪ )MB&F‬وذلك للتعرف أكثر على الدار‪.‬‬

‫بعد العودة من معرض ‪ Baselworld‬حيث قامت ‪ MB&F‬بعرض‬ ‫صح التعبير)‪،‬‬ ‫الساعات في «القصر» وهو مركز االبتكار و»الروعة» (إذا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عقد السيد بوسر اجتماعات عمل دامت من الفجر إلى النجر ألكثر‬ ‫من ‪ 85‬ساعة في خالل أسبوع واحد‪ ،‬وها هو اآلن جالس في باحة‬ ‫منزله الجديد في دبي‪ .‬ولم يكن االنتقال من قلب صناعة الساعات‬ ‫في سويسرا تجربة سيئة لماكس و ‪ .MB&F‬فمهاراته ومهارات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫وكل من عرفه يعرف‬ ‫عميق ا في التاريخ‪.‬‬ ‫«أصدقائه» متجذرة وموغلة‬ ‫أنه ينجز عمله بطريقة مختلفة عن باقي الشركات في القطاع‪.‬‬

‫في داخلي فضول كبير لمعرفة كيف تنظر لنفسك‪.‬‬ ‫مبدعا؛‬ ‫ففي خالل فترة ‪ 85‬ساعة‪ ،‬أنت ال تكون حينها‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ال بل أنك مجرد رجل أعمال‪ .‬هل يجب أن تظهر بهذه‬ ‫الصورة في هذه األيام؟‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ثمن ا لذلك وهو ليس‬ ‫مبدع ا يعني أن يدفع‬ ‫سؤالك مهم‪ .‬أن يكون المرء‬ ‫ً‬ ‫بالقليل‪ .‬األشخاص الذين يسعون وراء الفن واإلبداع وال يريدون العقبات‬ ‫والمطبات التي ترافق ذلك‪ ،‬لطالما كانوا وسيبقون فنانين مفلسين‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحظ بشكل‬ ‫وسرعان ما سيأفل نجمهم‪ .‬وفي حاالت نادرة‪ ،‬قد يحالفهم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أتمك ن من‬ ‫كبير ويحققون النجاح‪ .‬أنشأت العالمة التجارية ‪ MB&F‬حتى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ولعل ي‬ ‫ابتكار ما أرغب به‪ .‬وهذا هو الجزء األول واألهم من عمل ‪.MB&F‬‬ ‫بأناني تي‪ .‬من ناحية االبتكار‪،‬‬ ‫الوحيد في عالم صناعة الساعات الذي أفخر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تمام ا‪ .‬وأنا ّ‬ ‫طويل في القطعة‪ ،‬فأسأل نفسي «هل‬ ‫أفك ر‬ ‫هذا ما أؤمن به‬ ‫ً‬ ‫سيرغب أحد غيري بارتداء هذه الساعة؟»‬ ‫عام ا بتأسيس عالمته‬ ‫بكل بساطة‪ ،‬قام السيد بوسر البالغ ‪48‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تعب ر عنه بالدرجة األولى‪ .‬بعد مضي‬ ‫التجارية وهو يبتكر منتجات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عام ا من الريادة في عالم صناعة الساعات مع دار‬ ‫أربعة عشر‬ ‫ً‬ ‫جيجر لوكولتر وهاري وينستون (والذي قام بابتكار مجموعة‬ ‫يؤس س ً‬ ‫خاص ا‬ ‫إرث ا‬ ‫أوبوس ‪ Opus‬األيقونية لها)‪ ،‬ها هو اليوم‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫به‪ .‬وهو يؤكد على أن «أهم يوم في حياة المرء ليس اليوم‬ ‫الذي يولد فيه أو يتزوج أو ُي رزق بمولوده األول‪ ،‬بل هو اليوم‬ ‫الذي يرحل فيه عن هذه الدنيا‪ .‬ومن الحري به في ذلك اليوم ّأل‬ ‫يعتريه أي من شعور بالندم‪».‬‬ ‫لقد أبدى شجاعة وثقة كبيرة بنفسه عندما استقال من وظيفة يمكن‬ ‫اعتبارها «آمنة» لدى أرقى دور صناعة الساعات‪ .‬وبالتأكيد‪ ،‬فإننا ال‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫نستشف أي ندم في نفسه‪.‬‬

‫‪26 27‬‬


THE WATCHES

Phillips Auctions of Fine Collectors Watches Geneva, 9th and 10th May

T

he auction on Saturday 9th May is dedicated to Rolex’s most prestigious model, the Day4Date, and will offer 60 of the rarest examples, including unique models and watches with royal provenance, all carefully selected with the assistance of Pucci Papaleo, among the world’s most renowned Rolex scholars. The auction on Sunday 10th May will offer approximately 160 watches of the highest quality, including exceptionally rare examples and timepieces with fascinating histories. The outstanding highlight is a par ticularly rare and desirable Patek Philippe stainless steel single button chronograph wrist watch, one of only t wo of ever made; the other is now a highlight of the Patek Philippe Museum (estimate: SFr.1,0 0 0,0 0 0 to 2,0 0 0,0 0 0). Saturday 9th of May

ROYAL BLUE Rolex Day-Date in platinum, Ref. 1802 A very rare and important platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch with centre seconds and bracelet, made for the Sultan of Oman and retailed by Asprey, manufactured in 1975. Estimate SFr. 50,000-100,000

MUGHAL Rolex Day-Date, Ref. 1831 An extremely rare, important and very heavy platinum and diamond-set calendar bracelet watch with centre seconds and burgundy lacquered “Stella” dial, made for the Shah of Iran in a limited series of 8 pieces only, manufactured in 1977. E s t i m a t e S Fr. 10 0 , 0 0 0 200,000


‫‪THE WATCHES‬‬

‫مزاد فيليبس العلني‬ ‫للساعات الفاخرة‬ ‫جنيف في التاسع والعاشر من مايو‬

‫يخصص المزاد في يوم السبت الموافق في التاسع من مايو ألفخر طراز من ساعات رولكس‪ ،‬أي طراز “داي دايت”‪ ،‬حيث يتم عرض‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ستّ‬ ‫تم انتقاء الساعات بعناية‬ ‫والملوك‪.‬‬ ‫األمراء‬ ‫اقتناها‬ ‫قد‬ ‫كان‬ ‫وساعات‬ ‫فريدة‬ ‫طرازات‬ ‫ذلك‬ ‫في‬ ‫بما‬ ‫األكثر‬ ‫بين‬ ‫من‬ ‫قطعة‬ ‫ين‬ ‫ندرةً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فائقة بمساعدة السيد بوتشي باباليو عالم الساعات الكبير في رولكس‪.‬‬ ‫أما يوم العاشر من مايو‪ ،‬يطرح المزاد حوالي ‪ 160‬ساعة من أجود ما ُصنع بما في ذلك قطع وطرازات نادرة وذات تاريخ عريق‪ .‬وأبرز‬ ‫ما سيعرض من الساعات الفريدة هي ساعة يد من الفوالذ المقاوم الصدأ من توقيع باتك فيليب بز ّر واحد من أندر الساعات‬ ‫(ويقدر ثمنها بين‬ ‫أما القطعة األخرى فهي معروضة اليوم في متحف باتك فيليب‬ ‫وأكثرها‬ ‫طلبا وقد ُصنع منها قطعتان فقط‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫مليون ومليوني فرنك سويسري)‪.‬‬

‫‪Sunday 10th of May‬‬

‫‪PATEK PHILIPPE‬‬ ‫‪Perpetual Calendar‬‬ ‫‪Chronograph‬‬ ‫‪An 18 karat yellow gold‬‬ ‫‪chronograph wristwatch with‬‬ ‫‪perpetual calendar, reference‬‬ ‫‪2499/100, retailed by Beyer,‬‬ ‫‪with original wooden box and‬‬ ‫‪original certificate of origin.‬‬ ‫– ‪Estimate: SFr. 300,000‬‬ ‫‪500,000‬‬

‫‪28 29‬‬


THE AWARD

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2015

E

xcellence, innovation and watchmaking exper tise will once again by rewarded later this year in the Grand Théâtre de Genève, on the occasion of the 15th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize- giving ceremony.

Created in 2001 and intended as an annual salute to the excellence of worldwide watchmaking creations, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève fosters the reputation and influence of this art and its values around the globe. Values that are shared by the main partner of the Foundation of the GPHG, the Edmond de Rothschild group, which since 2011 has regularly rewarded the best young student at the Geneva Watchmaking School by awarding a scholarship.

‫ و هو عر بو ن تقد ير‬2 0 01 ‫أ قيم ا لحفل أل و ل مرة في ا لعا م‬ ‫لتمي ز في إ بد ا عا ت صنا عة‬ ‫سنو ّي لمن يحمل بيد ه مشعل ا‬ ّ ‫ و ا لجا ئزة تهد ف لد عم هذ ا ا لفن‬. ‫ا لسا عا ت حو ل ا لعا لم‬ ‫ و هي قيم‬. ‫و شهرته و تأ ثيره و قيمته في كافة أ نحا ء ا لمعمو رة‬ ‫يحملها ا لشر يك ا لرئيسي في تأ سيس ا لجا ئزة أ ي مجمو عة‬ ‫ بمنح جو ا ئز‬2 011 ‫إد مو ند د ي رو ثشيلد ا لتي تقو م منذ ا لعا م‬ ‫د و ر ّي ة عبا رة عن منح د را سية أل فضل طا لب ناشئ في مد رسة‬ . ‫جنيف لصنع ا لسا عا ت‬

MEN’S PASSION will bring you a detailed preview of GPHG 2015 in our October edition.

ً ً ‫تفصيليا عن حفل‬ ‫عرض ا‬ MEN’S PAS SIO N ‫ستقد م مجلة‬ ّ .‫ في عدد شهر أكتوبر‬2015 ‫العام‬


‫‪THE AWARD‬‬

‫جائزة جنيف‬ ‫الكبرى للساعات‬

‫والتميز والخبرات في صناعة الساعات مرور الكرام من دون مكافأة‪ .‬ففي موعد الحق‬ ‫يمر االبتكار‬ ‫مجدد ًا هذا العام‪ ،‬ال‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من العام الجاري‪ ،‬وعلى المسرح الكبير في جنيف‪ُ ،‬يقام حفل توزيع الجوائز على هامش النسخة الخامسة عشرة‬ ‫لجائزة جنيف الكبرى للساعات‪.‬‬

‫ا لكأ س‬

‫‪30 31‬‬

‫‪The Trophy‬‬

‫المصم م الهندسي‪ ،‬روجر بفوند من جنيف‪ ،‬الكأس‬ ‫ابتكر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تقد م كجائزة جنيف الكبرى للساعات وهي على‬ ‫التي‬ ‫التذكارية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫صم م جواز السفر السويسري‬ ‫أيضا َم ن‬ ‫شكل يد‪ .‬بفوند هو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ً‬ ‫كبيرا من فئات العملة‪ .‬اليد ترمز إلى المهارة واالحترافية‬ ‫وعددا‬ ‫العالية‪ ،‬وهما ركنا صناعة الساعات‪ .‬وقد استوحى الفنان فكرة‬ ‫الجص ية المرسومة على سقف كنيسة‬ ‫التذكار من اللوحة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫سيستين بريشة المبدع مايكآلنجلو‪ ،‬وفيها تظهر يد الخالق‬ ‫ممدودة نحو آدم ليمنحه الحياة‪ .‬كذلك ترمز هذه اللوحة إلى‬ ‫الذكرى ونقل المعرفة‪.‬‬

‫‪The trophy of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix was‬‬ ‫‪created by graphic designer, Roger Pfund, from Geneva, who‬‬ ‫‪also designed the Swiss passport and a large number of bank‬‬ ‫‪notes. The hand is the symbol of skill and mastery, both key‬‬ ‫‪to all watchmaking trades. The artist drew his inspiration for‬‬ ‫‪the trophy from the fresco on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel,‬‬ ‫‪painted by Michelangelo, in which God touches Adam’s‬‬ ‫‪extended hand to give him life. It also symbolises the memory‬‬ ‫‪and the passing on of knowledge.‬‬

‫الجدير بالذكر أن هذه الكؤوس التذكارية التي يحصل عليها الفائزون‬ ‫المطلي بالذهب وهي من‬ ‫بالجوائز المختلفة مصنوعة من البرونز‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إنتاج شركة «بيالرت» ( ‪.)Bélart‬‬

‫‪The trophies presented to winners of the various prizes‬‬ ‫‪are made of gilded bronze by the Geneva-based company‬‬ ‫‪Bélart SA.‬‬


THE DEALER

Abdul Mohsen Behbehani

T

here are many and varied psychological motivations for collecting, and we each are unique in the way we collect items purely for the satisfaction of seeking and owning them. Few are the collectors who invest greater passion in to the acquisition of knowledge and the appreciation of their collections than Abdul Mohsen Behbehani.


THE DEALER

Indeed, not only does he collect, as a director of renowned company Morad Yousuf Behbehani, he is well placed to explore his passion for collecting watches and for extending his knowledge of fine timepieces. The watches and jewelry department of the Behbehani Group features some of the world’s most desirable brands such as Cartier, Hublot, Korloff, Omega, Panerai and more. When one determines the time is right to buy a watch, who better to do business with than a company led by an ardent and passionate collector? As part of this illustrious family, as one might expect his interest in watches began to grow at a young age although, as he explained, it wasn’t inevitable that this would be his only interest; “As a child I was surrounded by all sorts of watches. As an adult I felt I knew all about this sector, but not quite. When something inspires you, you know that moment; you know that you need it. You know that having it will be like a memory that you will always cherish. I could have been a collector of anything else, despite the direction of the family business - but I’m glad that I’m a watch collector”. For Abdul Mohsen, the selection of a watch is a finely considered process. “When purchasing a watch” he continued, “you have to put time and energy into it, you have to let it sink in. To consider how one aspect of the watch can be better than the other, but still they are all unique”. He gives us the benefit of his many years of collecting, “When looking at a watch, look closely. For sure you will always find a memory. You have to be one to know how it feels to be so passionate about something”. To sum it up, he is looing for inspiration – “I believe that a watch should inspire me to add it to my collection”. Abdul Mohsen holds one of the most enviable collections in the region. As anyone with an expansive collection will know, this creates a problem. But it is an altogether pleasant problem. In his case, every morning, he must ask himself the question “What shall I wear today?” “If I could, I would wear all of them, but unfortunately that is not possible, selecting what to wear each day isn’t an easy task, I must admit, but I tend to wear what inspires me, each brand has a story of its own, I just decide which story I want to reflect on”. The Business

Can we know more about your special relationship with the brands that MYB represent in Kuwait? Each brand is equally special to me. The brands that we represent are already well established. Our relationship only strengthen with each passing day, I have learnt and have yet to learn so much from them. Most important aspect of any relationship is trust, which we share very thoroughly

with each brand. When both sides trust each other, they can share information and invest in understanding each other’s business.

What do you feel is so special and unique about each brands? Like I have mentioned before, each brand is special to me. Why? Because they all are unique in their own way, each brand has its own business and personal point of view, what impresses me the most is how each have segregated their target audience, the careful control over how the image of the brand is displayed to the customer and of how the customer feels when they acquire these brands i.e. pride, luxury, personal satisfaction and much more. What really amazes me is, when a customer purchases something branded, they feel it’s their choice, but if you take a deeper thought, it’s that brand that has left you no choice to be part of your persona.

What is it like to be a part of a growing family business? Do you see today’s generations growing up with the same passion for luxury watch brands? Being a part of a growing family business is a great responsibility to live up to our past achievements and future expectations, our strategies have not changed much from the past, we still believe in bringing down world class brands to our customers in Kuwait, MYB is not just a family business but a well-managed organization that caters to employees from all over the world, its customers and the local society as a whole. I definitely do see today’s generation interested and having a passion for luxurious brands, I’m pleasantly surprised when a person as young as fourteen year old is a collector of luxurious watches, it is nice to know that the young generation understands and values this, that it’s not about style alone but passion.

How can we expect to see MYB’s relationship with the international watch market develop over years to come? What are you looking to add to your range? Our relationship with the international market is already quite strong, the relationship we share with them is as old as 80 years now, the mutual trust we have is only going to get stronger. To continue adding luxurious brands to our range has been MYB’s motto, we have planned and continue planning to give the best of the luxurious brands to our client and customers. We will be more than happy to announce to our followers, clientele and customers whenever we add another new brand to our range, which hopefully will be soon.

32 33


‫‪THE DEALER‬‬

‫بالطبع‪ ،‬ليس جمع الساعات مهنته بل هو يشغل منصب مدير‬ ‫شركة مراد يوسف بهبهاني المرموقة‪ .‬وبالتالي‪ ،‬هو يعتبر‬ ‫والتوس ع‬ ‫التبح ر في شغفه لجمع الساعات‬ ‫يؤه له‬ ‫في موقع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫في معرفته في الساعات الفاخرة‪ .‬يعرض قسم الساعات‬ ‫والمجوهرات في مجموعة بهبهاني بعض العالمات التجار ية‬ ‫ً‬ ‫رقيا في العالم من مثل كارتييه وهوبلوت‬ ‫من بين األكثر‬ ‫وكورلوف وأوميغا وبانيراي وغيرها الكثير‪.‬‬

‫أ ّم ا من و جهة نظر تجا ر ية ‪ ،‬فهل أ جد ر‬ ‫ا لسا عا ت ير أ سها ها و ي جمع سا عا ت‬ ‫صفقا ت ا أل عما ل معها ؟‬

‫من شر كة لبيع‬ ‫حقيقي إل تما م‬

‫وكأحد أفراد هذه ا لعا ئلة ا لعر يقة في تا ر يخ تجا رة ا لساعات‪،‬‬ ‫كان من ا لطبيعي أن يكون اهتما مه نحو ا لساعات قد بدأ‬ ‫لينمو بعد ها وتختصر هذه‬ ‫سن مبكرة‪ ،‬كما يقول‪،‬‬ ‫يتبلور في‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫طفل ‪،‬‬ ‫ا لهو ا ية قا ئمة اهتما ما ته بكا ملها‪ ،‬فيقول «مذ كنت‬ ‫كنت ُم ً‬ ‫أحس‬ ‫حاط ا بجميع أنو ا ع ا لساعات ‪ .‬وبعدما كبرت بدأت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لكن ني كنت أشعر د و ً‬ ‫ملم جيد بهذا ا لقطا ع‪ ،‬و ّ‬ ‫ما أن‬ ‫بأنني‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫هنا ك قطعة ناقصة في هذه ا ألحجية‪ .‬عندما تجد مصدر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تستشف تلك ا للحظة ال‬ ‫معي ن‪ ،‬سو ف‬ ‫إ لها مك في شي ء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫محا ل‪ ،‬و ستعرف ّأن ك تحتاج لذلك ا لشي ء ألن حصو لك عليه‬ ‫ً‬ ‫عميقا في وجدانك ‪.‬‬ ‫سيكون كا لذكر ى ا لتي ستبقى محفورة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغض ا لنظر عن تجا رة‬ ‫كان بإمكاني أن أهوى أ ي شي ء آخر‬ ‫عا ئلتي ‪ -‬و لكنني مسرور بأنني هاوي جمع ساعات ‪».‬‬ ‫معي نة‪ ،‬يتأنى عبد ا لمحسن‬ ‫عند ا تخاذ قرا ر حيا ل اقتناء ساعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تأن ‪ .‬ويرد ف قا ً‬ ‫ئل ‪« ،‬عندما تقوم بشراء ساعة ما‪ ،‬عليك‬ ‫أ ّي ما‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ببذل ا لو قت و ا لجهد لذلك وعليك أن تترك ا لفكرة تتغلغل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫معي نة في ا لساعة‬ ‫تفك ر في ناحية‬ ‫في عقلك ‪ .‬يمكنك أن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وكيف تتمايز عن أخر ى‪ ،‬و لكن تبقى ا لساعات جميعها‬ ‫فر يدة‪ ».‬يشرح لنا عن فا ئدة ا لسنو ات ا لتي قضاها في جمع‬ ‫ا لساعات‪ ،‬فيقول «عندما تنظر إ لى أ ي ساعة عن كثب ستجد‬ ‫يقد رون ا لشغف تجاه‬ ‫مم ن‬ ‫فيها ذكر ى ‪ .‬وعليك أن تكون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫شي ء ما‪ ».‬و لتلخيص ذلك ّ‬ ‫كل ه‪ ،‬فأنت تنظر إ لى ا إللها م‪« -‬أنا‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وكأن ه ا إللها م‬ ‫شخصيا أنتظر أن أشعر بشي ما في داخلي‬ ‫أضم ساعة جديدة إ لى مجموعتي ‪».‬‬ ‫لكي‬ ‫ّ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫بأن ها من بين ا لمجموعات ا لتي‬ ‫تتمي ز مجموعة عبدا لمحسن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫محط أنظا ر للمنطقة بكا ملها‪ .‬وكما يعرف أ ي شخص‬ ‫تشك ل‬ ‫يملك مجموعة بمثل حجمها‪ ،‬فهي تضع صاحبها أ ما م‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل يوم‪ ،‬برغم كون هذه ا لمعضلة مرحة‪ .‬با لنسبة‬ ‫معضلة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل يوم حيا ل‬ ‫إ لى عبدا لمحسن‪ ،‬عليه أن يختا ر ويحسم أ مره‬ ‫أ ي ساعة سيرتد ي ‪.‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫جميعا د فعة و ا حد ة‬ ‫يقو ل ‪ « ،‬لو كا ن ا أل مر بيد ي ال ر تد يتها‬ ‫و لكن لسو ء ا لحظ ليس هذ ا غير ممكن ‪ .‬فا ختيا ر ا لقطعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل يو م مهمة عصيبة ‪ .‬و ّ‬ ‫لكن ني أ ر تد ي‬ ‫ا لتي سأ ر تد يها‬ ‫دو ً‬ ‫ما ا لقطعة ا لتي تلهمني في ذ لك ا لصبا ح و يميل‬ ‫إ ليها قلبي ‪ .‬و كل عال مة تجا ر ية تحمل قصة خا صة بها‪،‬‬ ‫لقص ة ا لتي أ رغب با ستعا د تها‬ ‫و أ نا ببسا طة أ ختا ر أ حيا ًن ا ا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫في ذ هني خال ل ا ليو م ‪» .‬‬

‫ا لشركة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫هلا أخبرتنا عن عالقتك الخاصة بالعالمات التجارية التي‬ ‫توزّعها شركتكم‪ ،‬مراد يوسف بهبهاني‪ ،‬في الكويت؟‬ ‫كل العالمات التجارية مميزة بالنسبة إلي ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وكل ها من األشهر في العالم‪ .‬ما‬ ‫كل يوم‪ّ .‬‬ ‫يحصل هو اشتداد هذه العالقة بيننا مع إشراقة ّ‬ ‫تعل مت الكثير وما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ألتعل مه منها‪ ،‬وتبقى الثقة أهم الجوانب التي تطبع عالقتنا‬ ‫زال هناك الكثير‬ ‫تتس م العالقة بين الجانبين بالثقة‪ ،‬سيكون كلّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بكل عالمة تجارية‪ .‬عندما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫طرف على استعداد لمشاركة المعلومات مع اآلخر وصرف الجهد لفهم‬ ‫طبيعة أعماله التجارية‪.‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫لكل من‬ ‫المميزة والفريدة‬ ‫ما هو انطباعك عن النواحي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العالمات التجارية؟‬ ‫كما أسبقت الذكر‪ ،‬أعتبر ّ‬ ‫ممي زة‪ ،‬والسبب يرجع إلى أن‬ ‫كل عالمة تجارية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل واحدة فريدة بطريقتها الخاصة ولكل منها أعمالها التجارية ومنظورها‬ ‫الممي ز لألمور‪ .‬وأكثر ما يعجبني هو تقسيمها لفئات جمهورها المستهدف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وردة فعله عند الحصول عليها‪ ،‬أي‬ ‫وتنب هها لطريقة عرض صورتها للعميل ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫شعوره بالفخر والرفاهية والرضا الشخصي وغير ذلك بكثير‪ .‬أكثر ما يدهشني‬ ‫بالفعل‪ ،‬أن العميل عندما يشتري قطعة فاخرة‪ ،‬يشعر ّأن ه ّات خذ خياره الخاص‪،‬‬ ‫خيارا‬ ‫ولكن إذا ما أعدت النظر سترى أن العالمة التجارية هي التي لم تترك لك‬ ‫ً‬ ‫جزءا من شخصيتك‪.‬‬ ‫سوى تلك الرغبة الشديدة في أن تجعلها ً‬

‫صف لنا نفسك كأحد أفراد شركة عائلية تشهد نمو ًا؟ هل ترى‬ ‫الشغف نفسه عند األجيال الناشئة تجاه الساعات الفاخرة ذات‬ ‫العالمة التجارية؟‬ ‫ً‬ ‫فردا من شركة عائلية لهو بمسؤولية جسيمة‪ ،‬إذ عليك أن تكون‬ ‫أن تكون‬ ‫على قدر اإلنجازات السابقة والطموحات المستقبلية لهذه الشركة‪ .‬لم تشهد‬ ‫استراتيجياتنا أي تغيير عن السابق‪ ،‬فنحن ال نزال على قناعة بضرورة تقريب‬ ‫المسافة بين عمالئنا في الكويت والعالمات التجارية العالمية الراقية‪.‬‬ ‫مؤس سة أعمال عائلية فقط‪ ،‬بل مؤسسة ذات إدارة فاعلة تهتم‬ ‫ونحن لسنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ككل‪.‬‬ ‫بموظفيها بجميع جنسياتهم وتهتم بعمالئها والمجتمع المحلي‬ ‫بالتأكيد أنا أرى بشائر االهتمام والشغف بالعالمات التجارية الفاخرة في جيل‬ ‫ً‬ ‫شابا في الرابعة عشرة من عمره ما زال في حداثة ّ‬ ‫سن ه‬ ‫سرني أن أرى‬ ‫اليوم وقد ّ‬

‫ويهوى جمع الساعات الفاخرة‪ .‬من المفرح أن تعرف بأن الجيل الجديد يفهم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يتعل ق باألناقة وحدها بل بالشغف ً‬ ‫أيض ا‪.‬‬ ‫ويقدره‪ .‬واألمر ال‬ ‫هذا‬ ‫ّ‬

‫خص عالقة‬ ‫ماذا يمكننا أن نتوقع للسنوات المقبلة في ما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عم ا تبحثون إلضافته‬ ‫شركتكم بسوق الساعات العالمية‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إلى حافظتم؟‬ ‫ممتد على‬ ‫عالقتنا بالسوق العالمية عريقة وجذورها ضاربة في تاريخ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫شك‪.‬‬ ‫ويتعزز هو الثقة المتبادلة من دون‬ ‫ثمانين سنة‪ .‬ولكن ما سيزداد‬

‫وشعارنا في مراد يوسف بهبهاني هو إضافة المزيد من العالمات التجارية‬ ‫ً‬ ‫خطط ا ونستمر بالتخطيط لتقديم‬ ‫الفاخرة إلى حافظتنا‪ .‬وبالفعل وضعنا‬ ‫أفضل العالمات التجارية الفاخرة لعمالئنا‪ .‬وسنكون سعداء باإلعالن‬ ‫لمتابعينا ومجموعات عمالئنا متى نقوم بإضافة أي عالمة تجارية جديدة‬ ‫قريب ا‪.‬‬ ‫إلى مجموعاتنا ونأمل أن يكون ذلك‬ ‫ً‬


‫‪THE DEALER‬‬

‫عبد المحسن بهبهاني‬ ‫ماضي‪ ،‬حاضر ومستقبل‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ولكن الهدف واحد‪ ،‬وهو‬ ‫فلكل هاوي جمع ساعات طريقته ودوافعه الذاتية الخاص‪،‬‬ ‫تتعدد األسباب والشغف واحد‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحس بالرضا عند البحث عن الساعات واقتنائها‪ .‬وق ّلة هم هواة الجمع أشباه عبد المحسن بهبهاني الذين‬ ‫هذا‬ ‫إشباع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يستثمرون الجزء األكبر من شغفهم في كسب المعرفة والثقافة حول مجموعاتهم وتثمينها‪.‬‬

‫‪34 35‬‬


THE MAISON

Jaeger LeCoultre

C

aptivating is a word that aptly describes the night sk y over the VallĂŠe de Joux, this secret hollow nestling in the Swiss Jura that gave bir th to the Maison Jaeger LeCoultre. Ver y few lights disturb its luminous beauty that remains imper turbably serene, softly enveloping those who take the time to obser ve it, accepting to reveal its secrets to them. The sk y harbours the origins of time, while the sun, moon and stars are the keys that enabled humankind to tame this impalpable phenomenon. They are thus the be- all and end- all of horology.


THE MAISON In 2015, the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux is keen to share its fascination for the movements of the heavenly bodies, drawing upon these inexhaustible sources of inspiration and using them as a privileged means of expressing its expertise. An impressive panorama Because they speak to the mind and the heart, calendar complications have the ability to fire the imagination. Lunar calendar, sidereal zodiac calendar… the very terms used to describe them are a voyage into a universe that stretches far beyond our grasp and yet governs us. Through its new creations, Jaeger- LeCoultre illustrates the phenomena observed by ancient civilisations and which punctuate our daily lives. The calendar year represents a complete turn of the earth around the sun. Moon phases gave rise to the week and the month. The 12 hours represent the 12 decans visible during the night of the spring solstice. Minutes and seconds were adopted in order to facilitate complex astronomical calculations. By bringing them within reach of connoisseurs of fine objects, Jaeger-LeCoultre wanted the complete calendar and the moon phase to occupy the place they rightly deserve in our daily lives. Fragments of the sky To embody the magnetic beauty of the sky, moon and stars, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for materials directly related to its source of inspiration, such as meteorite stone and lapis lazuli. Meteorites, the shooting stars that cross the sky while leaving a luminous trail, have been crafted by the artisans of the Manufacture with a blend of passion and determination, in order to reveal the beauty they have concentrated across the ages. The highly symbolic lapis lazuli was the favourite stone of ancient kings, who associated its colour with the sky chart. Its deep pigmentation is indeed rivalled only by the infinite depths of the heavenly canopy. These rare and mysterious materials are an integral part in the design of the watches, while offering a singular experience through the energy and intensity they convey. Invention according to Jaeger-LeCoultre Since its founding in 1833, the Manufacture has played a key role in countless landmark introductions, from the keyless lever winding system to the silent regulators that serve to enhance the quality of sound emitted by repeater watches, and from the barely one-gram Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101 to the iconic Reverso, along with unprecedented concepts such as the Dual-Wing®. Surprising and enchanting the men and women who prove sensitive to these concentrated blends of the watchmaking expertise: such is the mindset nurtured by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made inventiveness a key focus. Calendar functions have long since been part of the watchmaking culture of the Grande Maison, admirably complementing other complications such as the Tourbillon or the Minute Repeater. This year, they are expressed in their own right and thus find themselves resolutely in the spotlight. Above and beyond their utility, the very nature of all functions provided by Jaeger-LeCoultre is to offer the person wearing the watch an elegant scaled down interpretation of the surrounding universe. Each of its new creations is destined to make the heart of devotees of fine objects beat a little faster. They can thus eagerly look forward to discovering models such as the Duomètre Sphérotourbilloon Moon with its infinitely accurate moon-phase display.

Janek Deleskiewicz, Artistic and Design Director, Jaeger-LeCoultre Behind the Reverso 60ème watch launched in 1991, a masterpiece of horology and elegance, as well as behind the diminutive universe of the world’s smallest Reverso, lies the talent of designer Janek Deleskiewicz. Artistic Director of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the author of the Reverso Tourbillon, the Reverso Répétition Minute, the Reverso Septantième and numerous other models including the Reverso Duetto, along with the Master and Atmos ranges, has been working in the Design Department of the Manufacture for 23 years.

Where does the incredible Jaeger-LeCoultre drive for innovation come from? Is it from the market or from within the maison – from you and your craftsmen? We must remember the special place the Vallée de Joux holds within the watchmaking industry, and recall the reasons for the existence of our company and the many others close by. When the industry began here, nearly two centuries ago, they were creating a new business altogether. There was no history of watches here – there was only history of agriculture. Yet they transferred the skills they used for making heavy machinery to making ever finer pieces for horology. Every winter they would work on these, and take their specialist pieces to the markets in the city. Ever year they worked hard to take something new, something innovative. It has remained within the DNA of our people and the craftsmen here to be ceaselessly innovative.

Let us consider today’s craftsmen, how would you rate their skill today compared to craftsmen of the past? I have no doubt their skills are at least an equal today to those of the past. For sure, we use a little more mechanization in our production than before, but we use the advantages of machinery purely for efficiency, not for artistry. Now we can create more watches. We can offer more complicated watches. We can offer watches of technical excellence that we could only dream of before.

What is your next step in terms of growing the business? We don’t want to have a big production like, for example, Rolex. In terms of quantities produced, we are small. I cannot reveal how many – but your readers would be surprised how few watches we produce. Our focus will be towards an increase quality and sophistication. Years ago the idea that we could produce watches valued at two-hundred thousand, even five- or six-hundred thousand dollars, was something we never imagined. But now we have, and we will increase this capability.

After 27 years at Jaeger-LeCoultre, and still counting, – what will be your legacy? It was to rediscover the Reverso – and to imagine the next evolution of this. Originally it had but one face – now two faces. I had the dream to combine the key complication elements of the finest timepiece and combine them within a Reverso case. It is now a tourbillion, a minute repeater, a chronograph, quantième perpetual and more. This will indeed be Janek’s legacy, in one hundred years time, when the history of Jaeger-LeCoultre is being written again, he will be recalled for his recreation of the Reverso as perhaps the most iconic of the maison’s wristwatches throughout its history.

36 37


‫‪THE MAISON‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫جزءا من ثقافة صنع الساعات في‬ ‫شك لت وظائف التقويم‬ ‫ولطالما‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تكم ل‬ ‫الدار الكبرى ‪ ،Grande Maison‬وهو ملفت للنظر حيث أنها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تعقيدات أخرى كمجموعة ‪ Tourbillon‬أو مجموعة ‪.Minute Repeater‬‬ ‫وهذه السنة تظهر هذه التعقيدات في مجموعات جيجر لوكولتر‬ ‫لتضع هذه الدار تحت بقعة الضوء‪.‬‬ ‫ال يقف األمر عند مجرد اقتناء الساعات الستخدامها فقط‪ .‬فكافة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫توف ر للشخص‬ ‫بحد ذاتها‬ ‫توف رها دار جيجر لوكولتر‬ ‫الوظائف التي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إن كل ما تبدعه الشركة‬ ‫الذي يرتديها أناقة في فهم الكون من حولنا‪ّ .‬‬ ‫وبالتالي‬ ‫ذو اقة المقتنيات الفاخرة‪.‬‬ ‫مصم م لتحريك أحاسيس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التطل ع بشوق للتعرف على تصاميم مثل ديوميتر‬ ‫يسعهم‬ ‫سفيروتوربيون مون ‪ Duomètre Sphérotourbilloon Moon‬والتي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الدق ة‪.‬‬ ‫تتمي ز بنافذة تعرض مراحل القمر بمنتهى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يانك ديليسكييفيتز ‪ :‬مخرج فني وتصميم‪ ،‬في جيجر لوكولتر‬ ‫ليست ساعة ريفرسو بنسختها الستين والتي ظهرت في العام ‪ 1991‬والتي‬ ‫اعتُ برت آية في األناقة ً‬ ‫وفنا في صناعة الساعات إال نتاج هذه الموهبة الغزيرة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للمصمم يانك ديليسكييفيتز‪ .‬موهبة ّ‬ ‫مصغر» ُجمع في‬ ‫تفتقت عن «كون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫صمم يانك خالل عمله كمخرج فني‬ ‫أصغر ساعة ريفرسو في العالم‪ .‬وقد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫في جيجر لوكولتر ساعة ‪ Reverso Tourbillon‬وساعة ‪Reverso Répétition‬‬ ‫‪ Minute‬وساعة ‪ Reverso Septantième‬باإلضافة إلى طرازات أخرى بما‬ ‫صمم سلسلتي ماستر ‪Master‬‬ ‫في ذلك ساعة ‪ .Reverso Duetto‬كذلك‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المصنع منذ‬ ‫والمصمم يعمل في قسم التصميم لدى‬ ‫وأتموس ‪.Atmos‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عاما‪.‬‬ ‫ثالثة وعشرين ً‬

‫ما هو مصدر كل هذا االبتكار المدهش لدى جيجر لوكولتر؟‬ ‫هل يأتي من السوق أم من داخل الدار‪ ،‬أي منك ومن‬ ‫الحرفيين معك؟‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يحتلها وادي فالي دو جو في عالم‬ ‫يجب علينا ّأل نغفل المكانة المميزة التي‬ ‫صناعة الساعات‪ .‬كما علينا أن نضع في الحسبان أسباب وجود هذه الدار‬ ‫هنا في هذه المنطقة إلى جانب الكثير من ُدور صناعة الساعات القريبة لنا‪.‬‬ ‫في أول بدايات الصناعة هنا‪ ،‬وذلك منذ قرابة القرنين من الزمن‪ ،‬كانت هذه‬ ‫موجودا على اإلطالق‪ .‬لم يكن هناك ما‬ ‫تؤسس قطاع أعمال لم يكن‬ ‫الدور‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحرفيون‬ ‫ر‬ ‫سخ‬ ‫ذلك‪،‬‬ ‫وبرغم‬ ‫فقط‪.‬‬ ‫زراعية‬ ‫المنطقة‬ ‫كانت‬ ‫هنا‪-‬‬ ‫بالساعات‬ ‫يرتبط‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مهاراتهم التي استخدموها لصنع المعدات الثقيلة لتصنيع أدق القطع التي‬ ‫يحتاجها فن صناعة الساعات‪ .‬في ّ‬ ‫يكبون على صناعاتهم‬ ‫كل فصل شتاء كانوا ّ‬ ‫بجد‬ ‫ثم يذهبون بها إلى األسواق في المدينة‪ .‬كل عام يعملون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحرفية‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫إن هذا االبتكار الالمتناهي أصبح يجري في‬ ‫ومبتكر‪.‬‬ ‫جديد‬ ‫هو‬ ‫ما‬ ‫كل‬ ‫ليقدموا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عروقنا وطينتنا مجبولة عليه‪.‬‬

‫إذا ما نظرنا إلى الحرفيين اليوم‪ ،‬كيف تصنّ ف مهاراتهم‬ ‫مقارنة بالحرفيين في الماضي؟‬ ‫تتفوق‬ ‫أتم اليقين أن مهاراتهم تضاهي مهارات َمن سبقهم ال بل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أنا على ّ‬ ‫مما كان عليه األمر‬ ‫أكثر‬ ‫إنتاجنا‬ ‫في‬ ‫المكننة‬ ‫نستخدم‬ ‫أننا‬ ‫الطبيعي‬ ‫ومن‬ ‫عليها‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫في السابق‪ ،‬ولكننا نستفيد من المعدات للفعالية وليس للحرفية الفنية‪.‬‬ ‫نقدم ساعات أكثر‬ ‫بإمكاننا اآلن أن نصنع ساعات أكثر‪ .‬نحن باستطاعتنا اآلن أن ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫التميز الفني لم نكن‬ ‫نقدم ساعات بدرجة من‬ ‫تنميقا من السابق‪ .‬ويمكننا أن ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لنحلم بها من قبل‪.‬‬

‫ما هي الخطوة المقبلة إذا ما سألنا عن نمو األعمال؟‬ ‫نحن ال نسعى إلى إنتاج ضخم كما هي الحال مع رولكس ً‬ ‫مثل‪ .‬فالكميات‬ ‫مخو ًل باإلفصاح عن العدد‪ -‬ولكن قد يشعر‬ ‫التي ننتجها ضئيلة‪ .‬وهنا أنا لست‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫قراؤك بالدهشة عندما يعرفون العدد القليل الذي ننتجه‪ .‬وسيكون تركيزنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مصبوبا على تحصيل مستوى أكبر من الجودة والتنميق‪ .‬في الماضي‪ ،‬لم نكن‬ ‫ً‬ ‫لنتخيل أن بمقدورنا إنتاج ساعات بقيمة مئتي ألف دوالر أو حتى خمسمئة أو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ستمئة ألف دوالر‪ّ .‬أما اآلن فنحن نفعل ذلك وسنضاعف من قدرتنا هذه‪.‬‬

‫مستمرا بإذنه‬ ‫أنت تعمل منذ ‪ 27‬سنة في الدار وال تزال‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تعالى‪ .‬ما هي تركتك لمن بعدك؟‬

‫تطورها‪ .‬في‬ ‫وتخيل المرحلة التالية من‬ ‫ِتركتي إعادة اكتشاف ساعة ريفرسو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫البداية كانت الساعة بوجه واحد ّأما اآلن فهي متوفرة بوجهين‪ .‬كنت أحلم بمزج‬ ‫عناصر التنميق الرئيسية ألفخر الساعات ودمجها في علبة ريفرسو‪ .‬وهذه هي‬ ‫مزودة بأجزاء توربيون‪ ،‬وخيار التنبيه للدقائق وكرونوغراف وتقويم أبدي‬ ‫ساعة ّ‬ ‫‪ quantième perpetual‬وغيرها‪.‬‬ ‫هذا هو إرث السيد يانك الذي ستتداوله األجيال المقبلة بعد قرن من‬ ‫الزمن حين ُيكتب تاريخ جيجر لوكولتر من جديد‪ .‬لن ينسى أحد كيف أعاد‬ ‫تطوير ساعة ريفرسو وهي إحدى أكثر ساعات اليد جمالية ورمزية من بين‬ ‫مجموعات الدار طوال تاريخها‪.‬‬


‫‪THE MAISON‬‬

‫جيجر لوكولتر‬ ‫آسرة‪ .‬في ذلك المرتع الغائر في جبال جورا السويسرية‬ ‫ال يمكننا وصف السماء في الليل فوق وادي “فالي دو جو” إ ّلا بأنّها ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تعكر بريق السماء وجمالها األخّ اذ والتي تتألأل‬ ‫تأسست دار ساعات جيجر لوكولتر‪ .‬تكاد تخلو المنطقة من األضواء التي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتسر إليهم بمكنوناتها وأسرارها‪ .‬في السماء منشأ‬ ‫يحدق فيها وكأنها تحنو عليهم برفق‬ ‫بهدوء أبلج‪ .‬تبدو لمن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الوقت‪ ،‬ومن الشمس والقمر والنجوم مفاتيح ّ‬ ‫فك طالسم هذه الظاهرة الغامضة‪ .‬إنها كينونة فن صناعة الساعات وغايته‪.‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫مصن ع الساعات في وادي فالي دو جو جهده‬ ‫يصب‬ ‫في العام ‪،2015‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ويستمد منها‬ ‫السماوية‬ ‫األجرام‬ ‫بحركة‬ ‫بذهوله‬ ‫الجميع‬ ‫لمشاركة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ليعب ر عن خبرته‪.‬‬ ‫ينضب‬ ‫إلهام ا ال‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بانوراما مبهرة‬ ‫نار المخيلة‬ ‫وتشعل‬ ‫والعقول‬ ‫األلباب‬ ‫تأسر‬ ‫التقويم‬ ‫التعقيدات في‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫الجامحة‪ .‬فمن التقويم القمري إلى األبراج وغيرها‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫كل ها عبارات‬ ‫يمتد إلى حدود ال كنه لنا بها ولكنها تبسط‬ ‫تصف السفر إلى عالم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫دوم ا بإبداعاتها وترينا الظواهر‬ ‫سيطرتها علينا‪ .‬تذهلنا جيجر لوكولتر‪-‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫تحد د ّ‬ ‫أدق األوقات في حياتنا‬ ‫التي شهدتها الحضارات القديمة والتي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تمث ل دورة كاملة لألرض حول الشمس‪.‬‬ ‫اليومية‪ .‬فالسنة التقويمية‬ ‫أم ا الساعات االثنتي عشرة‬ ‫ومراحل القمر أنتجت األسبوع والشهر‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫نجم ا التي نراها في ليلة االعتدال الربيعي‪ .‬أما‬ ‫تمث ل الـ ‪12‬‬ ‫فهي‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المعق دة‪.‬‬ ‫الدقائق والثواني فقد ُوجدت لتسهيل الحسابات الفلكية‬ ‫ذو اقة‬ ‫كل هذه التعقيدات تضعها جيجر لوكولتر في متناول‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المقتنيات الفاخرة وهي أرادت للتقويم الكامل ومراحل القمر أن‬ ‫يشغال المكان الذي يستحقانه في حياتنا اليومية‪.‬‬ ‫سف من السماء‬ ‫ِك َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتجس د جيجر لوكولتر‬ ‫األخ اذ‬ ‫تأسرك السماء والقمر والنجوم بجمالها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مواد مرتبطة مباشرة بمصدر إلهامها كالحجر‬ ‫ذلك وهي قد اختارت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المصن ع‬ ‫حرفي و هذا‬ ‫ل‬ ‫حو‬ ‫‪.lapis‬‬ ‫((‪lazuli‬‬ ‫الزولي‬ ‫النيزكي وحجر البيس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األحجار النيزكية‪ ،‬تلك الشهب التي تخترق السماء تاركة أثرها المنير‪،‬‬ ‫إلى مصنوعات مزجوا فيها شغفهم وعزيمتهم ليكشفوا من خاللها‬ ‫أم ا أحجار البيس الزولي‬ ‫عن الجمال الذي اختزنته طوال العصور‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المفض ل للملوك القدماء‬ ‫فتحمل رمزية عالية لقد كانت الحجر‬ ‫والذين ربطوا لونها بصورة السماء‪ .‬وبالفعل‪ ،‬فإن لونها الغامق‬ ‫ال يضاهيه ّإل األعماق الالمتناهية لألجرام السماوية‪ .‬وتعتبر هذه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتقدم‬ ‫يتجزأ من صناعة الساعات‪،‬‬ ‫المواد نادرة وغامضة وهي جزء ال‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تجربة فريدة من خالل الطاقة والعزم اللذين تزخر بهما‪.‬‬ ‫االبتكار على طريقة جيجر لوكولتر‬ ‫تأسست دار جيجر لوكولتر في العام ‪ 1833‬ولطالما قامت بدور بارز‬ ‫قدمت‬ ‫في تقديم العالمات الفارقة التي ال‬ ‫تعد وال تحصى‪ .‬فقد ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ِّ‬ ‫والمنظ مات الصامتة التي‬ ‫الدار نظام التحريك بالزنبرك بدون مفتاح‬ ‫قدمت‬ ‫تعزز من جودة الصوت الذي تطلقه الساعات المنبهة‪ .‬وكذلك ّ‬ ‫تقريب ا وساعة ريفرسو األيقونية إضافة‬ ‫معايرة ‪ 101‬زنة الغرام الواحد‬ ‫ً‬ ‫إلى مفاهيم غير مسبوقة مثل نظام ‪.®Dual-Wing‬‬ ‫يذهلنا بالفعل الرجال والسيدات الخبراء بثنايا صناعة الساعات مهما‬ ‫اختلفت تعقيداتها‪ :‬وهذه هي الذهنية التي تقوم عليها دار جيجر‬ ‫تشج ع االبتكار باعتباره مجال تركيزها الرئيسي‪.‬‬ ‫لوكولتر‪ ،‬حيث ّان ها‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪38 39‬‬


THE DEALER

Trafalgar

Yesterday, Today and Tomor row

T

rafalgar was founded 43 years ago, in 1972, by Yahya Zakaria Alansari and his wife Heidi Alansari. The couple could not have known that their passion for watches and jewelry would yield quite such great success. In fact, Trafalgar is considered today in Kuwait as a leading company in the field of watches, jewelry and most recently fashion. The beginning was modest; the couple’s sole aim was to follow their passion never expecting to see such a resounding success for the business.

Having established himself as a successful businessman in real estate, Yahya Zakaria Alansari decided to find time to embark with his wife on a new journey, this time in the watch and jewelry retail industry. Slowly but surely, Yahya laid the foundations and values for his company, to define its history, luxury, reputation, stability, welfare and quality. Such values were well and truly maintained across the company throughout long years of business. Al Ansari worked with his brother then living in Geneva, to provide him with handbooks of world-class coveted and reputable watches. He then contacted some of these watchmakers to be their distributor in Kuwait and received immediate approval. In 1972, he opened his first boutique on Salem Mubarak Street. To fulfill his vision of contemporary design, he hired a Lebanese-Armenian architect to build a modern and elegant store matching up to the luxurious watches and jewelry that it would house. The design proved to be a true success as it did not overlook any single aspect.

In no time, Trafalgar soon established itself as one of the leading luxur y destinations in Kuwait. Five years later, it launched the “Happy Diamonds” collection by Chopard, which was highly acclaimed by Kuwait’s elite. In 1980, the St. Moritz collection by Chopard was launched making Kuwait the first countr y in the world to launch this collection. In 1985, Yahya Zakaria Alansari passed away. The business was taken over by his wife Heidi. Five years later, Kuwait was invaded by Iraq. Trafalgar’s collection of watches and jewelry, including some exclusive and rare pieces, was looted. However, the shop reopened in December 1991 heralding a new chapter of prosperity and expansion. In 1994, Trafalgar opened its second branch in Salhia Mall. Three years later in 1997, the first Chopard boutique was opened, and in 1999, Trafalgar third branch was opened in Thuraya Mall in Salmiya.


THE DEALER

On the background of such remarkable success made possible owing to the calculated strategy of the company, Trafalgar helm was handed over to Amer Alansari, the son of late Yahya Alansari, following the death of his mother. The expansion continued by adding more renowned brands to Trafalgar portfolio. In 2002, the fourth branch was opened in Fanar Mall in Salmiya and TAG Heuer deGrisogono boutique joined the company. In 2003, Trafalgar Marina Mall was opened along with the first TAG Heuer boutique. In 2004, Gucci watches and jewelry joined Trafalgar’s collections followed by Dior and Versace. In 2006, Trafalgar went into exploring new horizons, by entering the world of fashion through Versace boutique in Salhia. The company continued to attract high-end international watch brands and opened Patek Philippe boutique in Salhia Mall followed by Swarovski and Givenchy watch boutiques.

40 41


THE DEALER

In 2010, Aigner watches and jewelry joined Trafalgar’s portfolio. A year later, Montegrappa, one of the world’s most reputable pen makers, also joined the company. More boutiques followed in Avenues and 360 Malls. Trafalgar Today An increasing number of brands have joined the company’s por tfolio over the last decade; today, many luxurious international brands are sold under the umbrella of Trafalgar. However the company field of business focused mainly on watches and jewelr y, it has successfully entered the world of fashion over the past few years. Until today, the company has not deviated from its fundamental values in its journey to face future challenges. It remained true to its identit y as an independent company managed by A mer Alansari and his wife Christine Alansari. They both bring an added value to it, A mer through his experience in business management and Christine through her fir st-hand exposure in retail and fashion design. Finally, it goes without saying that challenges are inherent to ever y success stor y and ever y progress; and Trafalgar will definitely rise to any new challenge in order to preser ve its long-standing and well- earned position in the Kuwaiti market.


‫‪THE DEALER‬‬

‫باعتبارها الوجهة الفاخرة والرائدة في الكويت‪ .‬بعد مرور ‪ 5‬سنوات أطلقت‬ ‫الطرف األغر مجموعة «‪ »Happy Diamonds‬من شوبادر والتي نالت اعجاب‬ ‫المجتمع النخبوي في الكويت‪ .‬وفي سنة ‪ 1980‬أطلقت مجموعة «سانت‬ ‫مورتينز» من شوبارد حيث كانت الكويت أول دولة في العالم تطلق هذه‬ ‫المجموعة‪.‬‬ ‫في سنة ‪ 1985‬توفى السيد زكريا األنصاري‪ ،‬وتولت زوجته العمل بشكل‬ ‫كامل في هذا المجال‪ .‬وبعد مرور خمس سنوات تعرضت الكويت للغزو‬ ‫العراقي الغاشم‪ ،‬وتعرض عدد من القطع الحصرية والنادرة من الساعات‬ ‫والمجوهرات للسرقة‪ ،‬لكن سرعان ما تم إعادة افتتاح الطرف األغر في‬ ‫ديسمبر ‪ 1991‬وبدأت الخطوة الثانية من النمو واالزدهار والتوسعة‪.‬‬ ‫في عام ‪ ،1994‬افتتحت الطرف األغر متجرها الثاني في مجمع الصالحية‪،‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫وتحديدا في ‪ 1997‬تم افتتاح أول متجر لشوبارد في‬ ‫وبعد ثالث سنوات‬ ‫الكويت‪ .‬وفي سنة ‪ 1999‬تم افتتاح الفرع الثالث في مجمع الثريا في‬ ‫السالمية‪ .‬بعد هذا النجاح الباهر بفضل االستراتيجية المدروسة التي‬ ‫اتبعتها الشركة‪ ،‬تولى السيد عامر األنصاري ادارة الشركة وهو ابن السيد يحي‬ ‫األنصاري بعد وفاة والدته‪.‬‬ ‫واستمرت الشركة في التوسع من خالل حصولها على وكالة أهم العالمات‬ ‫التجارية‪ ،‬وفي سنة ‪ 2002‬افتتحت الطرف األغر متجرها الرابع في مجمع‬ ‫الفنار‪ .‬وانضمت إلى الشركة عالمات تجارية عالمية جديدة منها «تاغ هوير»‪،‬‬ ‫«دي جريسوغونو»‪.‬‬ ‫وفي سنة ‪ 2003‬افتتحت الطرف األغر متجرها في مجمع المارينا‪ ،‬وأول‬ ‫بوتيك ل»تاغ هوير» في المارينا‪ .‬وفي سنة ‪ 2004‬انضمت ساعات غوتشي‬ ‫لمجموعة الطرف األغر‪ ،‬وتلتها ساعات ديور وفرساتشي‪.‬‬ ‫وفي سنة ‪ ،2006‬بدأت الطرف األغر في مجال‪ ‬جديد وهو عالم األزياء من خالل‬ ‫افتتاح بوتيك فرساتشي في الصالحية‪ .‬واستمرت الشركة في استقطاب‬ ‫أهم العالمات التجارية العالمية قي مجال الساعات‪ ،‬وافتتحت متجر باتيك‬ ‫فيليب سنة ‪ 2009‬في مجمع الصالحية‪ ،‬وتالها ساعات سوارفسكي‬ ‫وجيفنشي‪ .‬وفي سنة ‪ ،2010‬انضمت إلى الطرف األغر ساعات ومجوهرات‬ ‫المتخص صة في‬ ‫آيجنر‪ .‬وبعد عام واحد انضمت شركة «مونتغرابا» اإليطالية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫صناعة األقالم والساعات الفاخرة إلى مجموعة الشركة‪.‬‬ ‫لطالما كان السيد يحي زكريا األنصاري رجل أعمال ناجح في مجال‬ ‫العقارات‪ ،‬وألنه أراد استغالل وقته في نوع آخر من التجارة قرر وزوجته‬ ‫الدخول في مجال قطاع التجزئة في عالم الساعات والمجوهرات‪ .‬بدأ‬ ‫السيد يحي بخطوات ثابتة ومبادئ أساسية للشركة تندرج ضمن التاريخ‬ ‫والترف‪ ،‬والسمعة‪ ،‬واالستقرار والرفاهية والجودة والتي استطاعت‬ ‫الشركة أن تحافظ عليها على مدى السنوات‪.‬‬ ‫تعاون األنصاري مع شقيقه الذي كان يقيم في ذلك الوقت في جنيف‬ ‫ً‬ ‫طالبا منه تزويده بالكتيبات الخاصة ألهم وأشهر الساعات العالمية‪ .‬وبدأ‬ ‫األنصاري بمراسلة هذه الشركات لتمثيل عدد من العالمات التجارية الفاخرة‬ ‫في الكويت وتمت الموافقة بشكل مباشر‪ ،‬وكان افتتاح أول متجر سنة‬ ‫‪ 1972‬في شارع سالم المبارك‪ .‬ولتحقيق رؤيته العصرية استعان األنصاري‬ ‫بمهندس معماري لبناني‪-‬أرمني لبناء المتجر ليتميز بالحداثة واألناقة‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ً‬ ‫فوريا‬ ‫نجاحا‬ ‫وليتناسب مع عالم الساعات والمجوهرات األنيق‪ ،‬وحقق المتجر‬ ‫ً‬ ‫متكامال من جميع النواحي‪.‬‬ ‫ألنه كان‬ ‫وبسرعة مطلقة‪ ،‬أثبتت شركة الطرف األغر مكانتها في السوق الكويتي‬

‫‪42 43‬‬

‫واستمرت الشركة في افتتاح متاجرها في مجمع األفنيوز ومجمع ‪.360‬‬

‫الطرف األغر اليوم‬ ‫وزادت العالمات التجارية في محفظة الطرف األغر على نحو كبير خالل‬ ‫العقد الماضي‪ .‬اليوم‪ ،‬الطرف األغر تمثل العديد من الماركات العالمية‬ ‫الفاخرة‪ .‬على الرغم من أن تركيزها كان في مجال الساعات والمجوهرات‪،‬‬ ‫الطرف األغر خالل السنوات الماضية اقتحمت عالم الموضة واألزياء‪.‬‬ ‫وحتى اليوم‪ ،‬تحافظ الشركة على مبادئها الرئيسية بهدف مواجهة‬ ‫التحديات المستقبلبية‪ .‬وبقيت وفية لهويتها كشركة مستقلة تدار من‬ ‫قبل السيد عامر األنصاري وزوجته السيدة كريستين األنصاري‪ .‬استطاعا‬ ‫أن يجمعا بين نقاط القوة الفردية‪ ،‬السيد عامر لديه خبرة في مجال إدارة‬ ‫األعمال‪ ،‬والسيدة كريستين لديها خبرة في مجال تجارة التجزئة وتصميم‬ ‫األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫من المؤكد أن الشركة تتطلع إلى العديد من المغامرات الجديدة التي‬ ‫ستواجهها بالتأكيد من أجل أن تحافظ على مكانتها العريقة في السوق‬ ‫الكويتي‪ ،‬والتي استحقتها بكل جدارة‪.‬‬


‫‪THE DEALER‬‬

‫الطرف األغر‬

‫ماضي وحاضر ومستقبل‬

‫تأسست شركة الطرف األغر منذ ‪ 43‬عام ًا‪ ،‬وتحديد ًا سنة ‪ ،1972‬ويعود الفضل في تأسيسها إلى السيد يحي زكريا األنصاري‬ ‫وزوجته السيدة هايدي األنصاري‪ .‬ولم يتوقع الثنائي أن يحقق شغفهما في مجال الساعات والمجوهرات النجاح الباهر‪ ،‬حيث‬ ‫أن شركة الطرف األغر تعتبر اليوم من أهم الشركات الرائدة في الكويت في مجال عالم الساعات و المجوهرات ومؤخر ًا‬ ‫األزياء‪ .‬كانت البداية متواضعة جد ًا‪ ،‬وهدفها األساسي هو استثمار شغفهما الخاص في عالم الساعات والمجوهرات‪ ،‬ولم‬ ‫يتوقعا أن يحقق المتجر النجاح الباهر‪.‬‬


THE DEALER


THE COLLECTOR

Fadi Jawad

F

o r many, owning a watch does not in essence mean telling time only. Watches, for these enthusiasts, are a passion that appeals to them in various degrees and for endless reasons. For this edition, we interviewed Fadi Jawad, CEO of EuroTec Consulting and Training. Fadi is ardent about collecting superb and remarkable watches of international watch manufactures. In our interview, we spoke of his inspiration for collecting watches.

Above everything else, Fadi indicates that time is of primary importance to him both professionally and personally. Time is sacred, and it is an important aspect of his daily life. He states, “I properly and subtly exploit time, which reflects in my productivity at work. At the company I have founded and am currently managing, we offer workshops on the importance of productivity for numerous businesses in Kuwait and across the Arab world. This, in turn, has prominently and positively influenced my character and daily life.” “Each person is drawn to a certain interest. Personally, I consider a watch around a man’s wrist as a reflection of character that appears to others. Watches come in various types: sports, classic and businessmen’s watches. In general, I am inclined towards purchasing classic watches that articulate my solemn and well-founded personality at work.” As for his preferred watches to own, Fadi says: “I started collecting watches fifteen years ago. My first watch was an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Today, it is considered rare across the world; they are

made of titanium, and consequently enjoy a relatively very light weight. Although quite expensive, I never consider selling it. It has a sentimental value that no material worth can compensate for. My passion to collect more watches grew, and I presently own a myriad of watches including Patek Phillippe and Rolex watches.” As for the criteria that appeal to him when choosing the watches to be included in his personal collection, Fadi tells us, “There are no specific specs for any watch I would like to buy. I might be attracted to the design or any other detail in the watch. What matters is that I would feel a connection and drive for the featurted watch. I must sense it is a part of my character and greatly identifying with it.” Our guest added, “Kuwait is home to many watch collectors and enthusiasts; we have even formed friendships through social media sites.” His last watch to acquire was a Rolex signature, while his most expensive is a Patek Phillipe.


‫‪THE COLLECTOR‬‬

‫فادي جواد‬

‫بالنسبة للعديد من األشخاص‪ ،‬أهمية امتالك الساعة ال تقتصر على معرفة الوقت فحسب‪ ،‬بل تتعدى ذلك كونها‬ ‫شغف ًا يستهويهم بتعدد درجاته واختالف أسبابه‪ .‬التقينا في هذا العدد فادي جواد‪ ،‬المؤسس والرئيس التنفيذي‬ ‫لشركة يوروتك للتدريب واإلستشارات اإلدارية شغفه يتمثل باقتناء الساعات الفاخرة والمتميزة من مختلف دور‬ ‫الساعات العالمية‪ ،‬وفي حوارنا معه تناولنا أسباب حبه القتناء الساعات‪.‬‬

‫في بداية الحوار‪ ،‬أشار جواد إلى أن للوقت أهمية كبيرة بالنسبة‬ ‫يقد س الوقت‬ ‫له سواء على الصعيد المهني أو الشخصي ألنه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫على اعتباره من أهم األمور في حياته اليومية‪ ،‬ويقول‪« :‬استغاللي‬ ‫للوقت بالشكل الصحيح والدقيق يتجلى في مدى قدرتي على‬ ‫اإلنتاجية في العمل‪ ،‬والشركة التي أسستها وأديرها نقدم دورات‬ ‫عن أهمية اإلنتاجية لعدد كبير من أهم الشركات في الكويت‬ ‫والوطن العربي مما أثر على شخصيتي وحياتي اليومية بشكل‬ ‫إيجابي ملحوظ ‪».‬‬ ‫«لكل شخص هواية معينة‪ ،‬وبالنسبة لي أعتبر أن الساعة في يد‬ ‫ً‬ ‫انطباعا عن شخصيته لآلخرين‪ ،‬فالساعات تتنوع ما‬ ‫الرجل تعكس‬ ‫بين الرياضية والكالسيكية وساعة رجل األعمال‪ .‬وأنا بشكل عام‬ ‫أميل إلى امتالك الساعات الكالسيكية التي تعبر عن شخصيتي‬ ‫الجدية والثابتة في العمل»‪.‬‬ ‫أما عن الساعات التي يفضل امتالكها‪ ،‬يقول جواد‪ « :‬بدأت هوايتي‬ ‫في جمع الساعات منذ ‪ 15‬سنة‪ ،‬وأول ساعة امتلكتها تعود لدار‬ ‫أدويمار بيغيه « ‪« Audemars Piguet‬روياك أوك» والتي أصبحت‬

‫‪46 47‬‬

‫اليوم من الساعات النادرة في العالم كونها مصنوعة من مادة‬ ‫التيتانيوم مما تجعل الساعة خفيفة الوزن إلى حد كبير‪ .‬وعلى‬ ‫الرغم من ارتفاع سعرها إلى حد كبير إال أني ال أفكر في بيعها ألن‬ ‫قيمتها المعنوية ال تعادل أي قيمة مادية‪ ،‬وقد تنامى شغفي في‬ ‫امتالك المزيد حتى أصبحت أمتلك اليوم تشكيلة متنوعة من‬ ‫الساعات منها ساعات باتيك فيليب ورولكس‪».‬‬ ‫وعن المعايير التي تجذبه عند اختياره للساعات التي يضمها‬ ‫إلى مجموعته الخاصة‪ ،‬يقول جواد‪« :‬ال يوجد مواصفات محددة‬ ‫للساعة التي أرغب بشرائها‪ ،‬ربما التصميم وأي تفاصيل أخرى‬ ‫قد تجذب انتباهي‪ ،‬كل ما هو مهم هو أن أشعر بانجذاب‬ ‫نحو الساعة المعروضة وأشعر أنها جزء من شخصيتي وأنها‬ ‫تمثلني إلى حد كبير»‪.‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ً‬ ‫كبيرا من محبي ومقتني الساعات‬ ‫عددا‬ ‫وتابع‪« :‬تضم الكويت اليوم‬ ‫وتجمعنا عالقة صداقة عن طريق شبكات التواصل االجتماعي»‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ثمنا‬ ‫وعن آخر ساعة قام بشرائها فهي بتوقيع رولكس‪ ،‬أما األغلى‬ ‫فهي من باتيك فيليب‪.‬‬


THE WATCHES

Baselworld 2015

B Wrap

aselworld 2015 further secured its reputation as the world’s most important global trendsetting event within the watch industry. The biggest and most prestigious brands in the world, the finest retailers and the global press once again united under one roof and capitalized on the myriad of business and networking opportunities that are exclusive to Baselworld.

Universally acknowledged and the one unmissable trendsetting event for an entire industry, Baselworld is the only show that unites key players from all sectors from around the world: watchmaking, jewellery, diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as machines and suppliers. The show was a positive one for the watch and jewellery brands as visitors felt the pulse of the industry, discovered the novelties, and purchased the latest collections which will set the trends for the coming year. Summing up the successful conclusion of the 2015 edition, Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of Baselworld, said that “Baselworld is the heart of a whole industry which spreads throughout the entire world from here. This statement is becoming increasingly true with every year that passes, as Baselworld strengthens its position as the leader year after year”. Further reflecting on what makes this show the one unmissable event for the entire industry, Ms Ritter very clearly states: “This envied and enviable position has to be defended untiringly; that’s why Baselworld moves forward every year, improving convenience and impact, and never ceases to innovate to meet the constantly evolving requirements”.

Commenting on the value of the show, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, is of the opinion that “Baselworld continues to be the major milestone in the year, allowing us to meet and work with all our major clients around the blobe. Our press meetings are equally important and increasing every year”. This opinion was also shared by Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, for whom Baselworld continues to be the most important annual event where “we get to meet all our partners and the entire global network in a concentrated time”. Mr Stern found this year’s show to be “an excellent edition that was really successful in terms of numbers and the interest in our products from retailers and the press”. Enthusiastic about Baselworld and the success of the LVMH Group at this year’s show, President of the group’s watch division Jean-Claude Biver, said that for thie brands, TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith, “the results are excellent and we are above all our expectations”. Come with us inside Baselworld, as we reveal the key news and most exciting launches…


‫‪THE WATCHES‬‬

‫معرض ‪ Baselworld‬لعام ‪2015‬‬ ‫أبرز ما جاء بالمعرض‬

‫حافظ معرض ‪ Baselworld‬بنسخته لعام ‪ 2015‬على صيته الذائع‪ .‬فعلى صعيد عالم الساعات‪ ،‬يعتبر هذا المعرض‬ ‫تقد م آخر الصيحات وابتكارات الساعات حول العالم‪ .‬هنا تحت سقف واحد اجتمعت أكبر‬ ‫من أبرز الفعاليات التي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ممثلي الصحافة العالمية‪ ،‬لالستفادة من الميزة‬ ‫تجار التجزئة وحشد من‬ ‫العالمات التجارية العالمية وأفخرها وأبرز ّ‬ ‫يقد مها معرض ‪ Baselworld‬دون غيره‪ ،‬أال وهي فرص األعمال والتشبيك المتنوعة‪.‬‬ ‫الحصرية التي‬ ‫ّ‬

‫عالمي ا وهو فعالية بارزة وال يمكن تفويتها‬ ‫المعرض مشهور‬ ‫ً‬ ‫لتحديد آخر االبتكارات في عالم صناعة الساعات‪ ،‬كما أنه‬ ‫الوحيد الذ ي يجمع األطراف الفاعلة الرئيسية من كافة‬ ‫القطاعات من حول العالم‪ ،‬أي من صناعة الساعات وصياغة‬ ‫المجوهرات واأللماس واألحجار الكر يمة والآللئ وماكينات‬ ‫والمور دين ‪.‬‬ ‫الساعات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لقد ترك المعرض بصمة إيجابية بالنسبة إلى العالمات التجارية‬ ‫للساعات والمجوهرات حيث ّ‬ ‫الزو ار على الصناعة عن قرب‬ ‫اط لع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واكتشفوا أجدد ما تمت صناعته وحصلوا على فرصة شراء أحدث‬ ‫المجموعات التي تعتبر أساس الموضة للسنة القادمة‪.‬‬ ‫تحد ثت سيلفي ريتر المديرة اإلدارية لمعرض ‪Baselworld‬‬ ‫وقد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫«إن معرض‬ ‫عن االختتام الناجح لمعرض العام ‪ 2015‬قائلة‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Baselworld‬هو قلب الصناعة بأجمعها‪ ،‬ال بل هو المكان الذي‬ ‫تنطلق منه هذه الصناعة نحو العالم بأسره‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫صح تها أكثر وأكثر‬ ‫تترس خ هذه اإلفادة وتثبت‬ ‫كل سنة‪،‬‬ ‫وفي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تلو األخرى‪».‬‬ ‫ترس خ المركز الريادي لهذا المعرض سنة‬ ‫مع‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تعز ز من‬ ‫وتؤك د السيدة ريتر في إطار الحديث عن األسباب التي‬ ‫أهمية هذه الفعالية بالنسبة إلى كامل الصناعة‪« :‬هذا الموقع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫حق قناه يجب أن نحافظ عليه بكل ما أوتينا‬ ‫جد ا الذي‬ ‫المرموق ً‬

‫من عزيمة ومثابرة؛ وهذا ما يعطي معرض ‪ Baselworld‬الدفع‬

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‫اإليجابي نحو األمام كل عام‪ .‬فالمعرض يحرص على زيادة الفرص‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يقد م االبتكارات لتلبية المتطلبات المتطورة‬ ‫ينفك‬ ‫واألثر وال‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باستمرار»‪ .‬وبحسب السيد كارل‪-‬فريدريتش شويفيلي‪ ،‬الرئيس‬ ‫المشارك في دار «شوبار ‪ ،»Chopard‬فإن «معرض ‪Baselworld‬‬ ‫كان وال يزال محطة رئيسية كبرى كل عام حيث نحظى بفرصة‬ ‫التالقي مع عمالئنا الكبار من حول العالم والعمل معهم‪.‬‬ ‫وكذلك نرى بأن لقاءاتنا الصحفية هي بذات األهمية وتتزايد‬ ‫عام ا بعد آخر»‪.‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ويشاركه في الرأي السيد تيري ستيرن‪ ،‬رئيس دار باتك فيليب‪،‬‬ ‫حيث يشير إلى أن المعرض هو من أهم الفعاليات السنوية‬ ‫حيث «نلتقي بكافة شركائنا والشبكة العالمية بأسرها في‬ ‫وقت قصير‪ ».‬ويعتبر السيد ستيرن أن المعرض هذه السنة «‬ ‫المشاركة واالهتمام الذي‬ ‫ممتاز وناجح بالفعل من حيث األعداد‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫تج ار التجزئة والصحافة في منتجاتنا»‪.‬‬ ‫أبداه ّ‬ ‫وقد أبدى رئيس قسم الساعات في مجموعة ‪ ،LVMH‬السيد‬ ‫وصرح‬ ‫جان‪-‬كلود بيفير‪ ،‬حماسته للمعرض ونجاح المجموعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بأن‬ ‫خص العالمات التجارية تاغ هوير وهوبلوت وزنيت‬ ‫في ما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تخط ينا بالفعل كافة توقعاتنا»‪.‬‬ ‫«النتائج ممتازة ونحن قد‬ ‫لتتعر فوا‬ ‫تفضلوا ورافقونا في جولتنا داخل معرض ‪Baselworld‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫على أهم األخبار وأكثر اإلصدارات إثارة‪...‬‬


THE WATCHES

Omega The Omega Seamaster family welcomes a new limited edition model inspired by the world of James Bond

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n anticipation of SPECTRE the 24th James Bond film scheduled to release in 2015, OMEGA has created a limited edition Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M model inspired by the Bond family coat of arms.

Among the most striking elements of this 41.5 mm stainless steel timepiece is the oscillating weight of the movement visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This component has been cut and shaped to resemble a gun barrel, a design feature associated with James Bond. Powered by the completely new OMEGA Master Co-Axial calibre 8507, this timepiece is resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. The timepiece is presented on a stainless steel bracelet and will be produced in an edition limited to 15,007 pieces.

The OMEGA Speedmaster ‘57 revisited In 2013, OMEGA unveiled an upgrade of the original Speedmaster of 1957. With its Co-Axial movement and classic design, the watch was an instant hit as it combined the best of both aesthetics and mechanics. This year, the brand has revisited the timepieces and created a new model that, while boasting several updated features, remains loyal to the style of the watch that has continued to be an icon in the industry for more than half a century.


THE WATCHES

“Rhapsodized, romanticized and

analysed, the Moon has always enchanted us.”

The 41.5 mm stainless steel Speedmaster ’57 has a polished and brushed casebody that is complemented by its brushed bezel, which features the tachymeter scale that is at once associated with the chronographs in this legendary watch family. Distinguishing this model from its 2013 counterpart are the recessed hour markers that are partially filled with “vintage“ Super-LumiNova that emits a green light. Extending the ceramic Speedmaster legacy: Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon collection

The

Rhapsodized, romanticized and analysed, the Moon has always enchanted us. This celestial body, whose surface has been explored by only twelve human beings, continues to be magical and alluring. Although they have been scientifically explained, its phases and craters remain mysterious. It was the adventures and the accomplishments of the Apollo 8 astronauts that inspired the all-black, ceramic Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, but it is the mystique of the Earth’s nightlight and its ever-changing yet constant presence that has spurred the creation of four new Omega timepieces that are now part of the collection: Black Black, Sedna Black, Pitch Black and Vintage Black.

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THE WATCHES

Hermès

H

A movement towards the essentials

ermès presents a new watch collection born of a stylistic exercise on the theme of aesthetic purity: Slim d’Hermès. This determination to aim for essentials results in lines distinguished by their elementary sobriety, expressed through the slenderness of a case. The broad dial opening immediately draws the gaze, while the design of the lugs forms a right angle. The extreme simplicity of this watch conveys a movement towards essentials in a rigorous, beautifully balanced manner. Slim d’Hermès, designed by Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director of La Montre Hermès, testifies to the graphic approach of the house through the original typography created by Philippe Apeloig to mark the hours. The light, airy outline of the numerals imparts a lively rhythm that gives time a pleasing cadence. This watch for both men and women comes in three sizes. At the heart of the large 39.5 mm-diameter model beats the Manufacture Hermès H1950 ultra-thin movement. The integration of a micro-rotor serves to slim down this self-winding calibre that now measures just 2.6 mm. Like the other models from the Manufacture, this movement is adorned with the “sprinkling of Hs” motif, while the bridges are hand-bevelled in keeping with watchmaking traditions. A sapphire crystal case-back affords a glimpse of the details conveying this expertise. Time is displayed in its simplest expression showing only the hours, minutes and seconds. The 39.5 mm-diameter model may be equipped with a perpetual calendar mechanism, one of the most demanding horological complications. This function, which counts off the days and months while taking account of leap years and thus provides a four-year display, is associated with a moon-phase indication in natural white mother-of-pearl set against an aventurine glass sky, as well as a dual-time display in an ultra-thin composition. A quartz movement drives the 32 mm and 25 mm models, while new colours enrich the range of alligator straps: blackcurrant, cloud white and sapphire blue, alongside ember, Etruscan, elephant grey and ultraviolet options. The wristband is also available in box calf, Barenia leather strap or steel bracelet versions. Slim d’Hermès appears in rose gold or steel variations, with or without diamond settings. When adorned in rose gold, the watch is graced with a guilloché dial in white natural mother-of-pearl, while the brand’s ex-libris motif appears on the back of the case. Whether mechanical symphony or artistic composition, Slim d’Hermès delivers its supremely pure definition of time, symbolising a return to the fundamentals of the watchmaking art. In keeping with the proud traditions of the house, this collection also provides broad scope for highlighting handcrafted skills, be they historical or unprecedented in the watchmaking field, in giving rise to truly exceptional creations.


THE WATCHES


THE WATCHES

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon

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he quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel, this new model incorporates the constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a constant force escapement with a design that breaks completely with the traditional watchmaking approach. A breakaway current, the kind of waters where Ulysse Nardin loves to sail.

Driven by the unending quest for innovation that makes it one of the most dynamic Manufactures, in 2015 Ulysse Nardin dropped a new marker buoy on the capricious ocean of fine watchmaking. An undisputed world first, the new Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the quintessence of avant-garde mechanical technology, timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel. The outcome of eight years of research and development, the constant Ulysse Anchor escapement, made entirely of silicium, displays hitherto unknown architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs. This device, the culmination of the development work on the prototype version presented in 2014, represents the height of timekeeping sophistication today: first, no longer constrained by a pivoting staff, the pallet fork moves entirely without friction; second, the geometrical improvements made to the pallet fork, the escape wheel and the flat springs have resulted in a constant-force escapement; and to crown all of this, this new coinage in watchmaking is brought aboard in a tourbillon cage, the peak of traditional expertise. Ulysse Nardin Marches Forward in Watchmaking Innovation with the “Hannibal” Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Feared and revered by the Romans, the great Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca knew how to outthink the competition. Considered one of the world’s greatest military commanders, Hannibal was the ultimate strategist who knew how to predict his enemies’ every move, devising innovative tactics to use to his advantage. In his quest to take Rome during the Second Punic War, Hannibal achieved a remarkable feat: He crossed the Pyrenees and Alps with an army of soldiers and his secret weapon – elephants, taking triumphant victory in Italy. Ulysse Nardin depicts this monumental journey in the Hannibal Minute Repeater. Presented worldwide as a limited edition of 30, the timepiece is crafted from platinum and genuine granite from the Alps.


THE WATCHES

“Hannibal, straddling his horse, appears to be in

swift action with one of his loyal elephants and regiment of warriors by his side.”

O f rare and exceptional ar tistr y, the watch demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s abilit y to push the envelope, yet again, in innovation in haute horology. From its use of original materials to precise engineering, the recent addition to this premier collection is as ingenious as its inspiration. The first – and most unforgettable – impression of this work of art is made when viewing its dial, set within a platinum case. Hannibal, straddling his horse, appears to be in swift action with one of his loyal elephants and regiment of warriors by his side. These main figures called Jaquemarts, as well as the mountainous backdrop and surrounding terrain, are all hand-carved from 18 carat white gold and are mounted on granite sourced from the very mountain chain Hannibal and his brigade crossed in the third century B.C. By making this material the foundational element of the watch’s design, Ulysse Nardin further illustrates its spirit of invention. Demonstrating an unparalleled level of skill and creativity in the piece, Ulysse Nardin delves deeper into its stor yline by ensuring the detail is so realistic, wearers of the series will be transpor ted back in histor y ever y time they, well, check the time. Hues of black, gold, bronze and silver shimmer with each cut, accentuating power and bold masculinity. Water-resistant to 30 meters, its movement is a caliber UN-78 one-minute tourbillon, integrated and visible on the dial. Its bridge is created in the same shape as those used on the tourbillons James Pellaton produced for Ulysse Nardin at the beginning of the 20th century. Each part of the movement is decorated, angled and hand-finished. With its specialized movement comes very special sound. A connoisseur’s treasure, minute repeaters perfectly pair a watch’s ability to have time not only seen, but also heard.

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THE WATCHES

Hublot unveils the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold

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n celebration of the 10th Anniversary of the iconic Big Bang, Hublot revealed, one week before Baselworld, the Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold. It is the perfect fusion of respect for tradition and 21st century creativity. The fusion of a revolutionary material – the famous Magic Gold, which is the world’s only scratch-resistant gold, certified as 18K and developed by Hublot – and the iconic design of the BIG BANG, with its Manufacture Chrono: the UNICO. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, declared “The fusion of materials is in Hublot’s DNA. Four years ago, Hublot created Magic Gold, the only scratch-resistant gold in the world. Still today, Hublot is the only brand to offer this material, whose hardness is close to 1,000 Vickers, more than twice that of ‘standard’ 18 carat gold, which only reaches 400 Vickers.” The Magic Gold is a noble material protected by patents, certified as 18 carats by the Central Office for Precious Metals Control, and developed by Hublot in Switzerland alongside the prestigious EPFL (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology), several months of fine-tuning took place in the manufacture to machine the famous alloy. Since November 2011, when Magic Gold was unveiled to the world's press, Hublot has equipped itself with the means to produce this material in-house from start to finish thanks to its high-tech foundry at the Nyon Manufacture, which is home to the ceramic sintering and highpressure metal casting processes. As you are probably already aware, this revolutionary material is a fusion of 24 carat gold (nature's ultimate noble material) and the latest high-tech materials expertise. Components made from this material are produced using a complex process: A boron carbide powder is preformed in moulds very similar in shape to that of the finished parts, in this case the watch's bezel. The pre-formed powder is then hardened at a very high temperature, creating a rigid, porous structure. After this operation, 24K gold alloyed with 3% molten liquid gold is injected under very high pressure with inert gas at a high temperature, allowing the metal to fill the ceramic pores and creating a "fusion" of the two to produce Magic Gold. Almost three years of collaboration and research have gone into achieving this impressive result: a completely new type of gold, an almost inalterable precious metal which retains its own characteristics. The first watches made from Magic Gold were presented at BaselWorld2012 in a very limited Big Bang Ferrari edition which reflected the shared DNA of the two brands: Exclusivity, innovation and technology.


THE WATCHES

Tissot Bridgeport Mechanical Skeleton

Tissot is an innovator by tradition. That part of the DNA is inevitable. Even though its heritage speaks out the loudest in the Tissot Bridgeport Mechanical Skeleton, Tissot’s innovation is definitely present. It is what makes it even more special. Indeed, this pocket watch is Tissot’s first savonette to bear a stunning skeleton movement at its core. It shows the inner beauty and the works that allows it to stand the test of time. This piece will not only please the watch enthusiasts but will also be the most fashionable accessory with its vintage style and great looks.

Rado - The True colour of tennis White is a colour which has long been associated with the glamorous spor t of tennis. With blued-steel hands, the new limited edition Rado True Match Point per fectly encapsulates the essence of this spor t. Ideal to wear when playing a match or as a spectator enjoying ever y thing a tournament has to of fer, this new timepiece is a must for all tennis fans. White high-tech ceramic is scratch-resistant, light and hypoallergenic. With a monobloc case and flexible three -link bracelet, this timepiece is irresistibly comfor table to wear. The eye - catching blue hands reflect the hard cour t which the majorit y of tennis tournaments are played on. Limited to 99 pieces, the case back of this automatic timepiece is engraved with Agnieszka Radwańska’s signature. The Rado brand ambassador, a fan of this new model of the Rado True, has added her per sonal seal of approval to this tennis inspired timepiece.

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THE WATCHES

Chopard

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n their L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collection, Chopard presented a timepiece combining the L.U.C case with a regulator movement. In keeping with the grand tradition of precision clocks, the six indications on the L.U.C Regulator are separated to ensure optimal readability.

Contrary to almost all available regulators, which place the hours at noon, those of the L.U.C Regulator appear at 3 o’clock. This means they peek out beyond a shirt cuff and are thus legible in all circumstances. The unique nature of the L.U.C Regulator also lies in its other atypical indications. Its dial features exquisite symmetry, with its four cardinal points each occupied by an indication. At noon, the power-reserve indication proudly indicates the autonomy of L.U.C Calibre 98.02-L on a graduated scale. The hours are placed at 3 o’clock, while the small seconds beat steadily at 6 o’clock. The fourth of these strategically placed items of information is a dual-time display appearing at 9 o’clock. This GMT function is controlled by a corrector-pusher discreetly recessed into the side of the L.U.C Regulator. The date is visible through a window between 4 and 5 o’clock. Each L.U.C 98.02-L movement of the L.U.C Regulator has successfully undergone the tests conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, thereby guaranteeing its chronometric precision. The watch is thus authorised to bear the inscription “Chronometer” on its dial. Moreover, its case and its movement have passed the stern tests performed by the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, which certifies the fine technical and aesthetic craftsmanship of the watch, and in particular the high level of finishing on its mechanical parts. The L.U.C Calibre 98.02-L, measuring only 4.9 mm in thickness, delivers an impressive power reserve of 216 hours, equivalent to 9 days.


THE WATCHES


THE WATCHES

TAG Heuer

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ew case, new construction, new design and new calibre. Presenting the TAG Heuer Carrera - Heuer 01. A Manufacture chronograph symbolically christened the Heuer 01 in honour of the founder, Edouard Heuer. 01 because it represents the markedly horological development of the calibre 1887, on which the backbone of the new collection will be based.

Its supremely clean new design reveals the chronograph controls and the openworked date disc on the dial side. On the case-back, its red column wheel - a bold visual anchor - the skeleton chronograph bridge and the black weight also draw the eye into the mechanism. The subject of continuous improvement and optimisation over five years, it has attained a very high level of quality while its production costs have been carefully managed, making it the only 100% Manufacture Chronograph available for less than CHF 5000. It features a new generation TAG Heuer case. Made from light titanium for greater shock resistance, it is constructed differently, no longer the single piece traditionally used by TAG Heuer, but modular with 12 different components. This design opens up a huge range of possibilities, with an infinite combination of materials, colours, treatments and finishes. The piece is completed by a strap in perforated black rubber for a stylish, sporty look highly characteristic of TAG Heuer, yet with a renewed style thanks to its interplay of transparency and depth effects on both sides. Finally, the Carrera Heuer 01 symbolises the continuity in investment and creativity made by TAG Heuer, which has been an avant-garde brand (Swiss Avant-Garde since 1860) since it was founded in 1860, and sincerely wishes to remain so. An investment of their strengths and resources to ensure they remain avant-garde in their spirit, culture and philosophy.


THE WATCHES

Monaco V4 Phantom Totally black. Totally matt. Stylish. Uncompromising. Almost stealthy. Made entirely from carbon fibre, its case, as well as the 7 bridges of its legendary movement, which is equipped with the famous microscopic toothed micro-belt transmission (the size of a hair, no wider than 0.07 mm) with its linear weight which moves on a rail and its ball bearings: let us introduce the Monaco V4 Phantom. The new feature of the 2015 version is found on the case, which is made from CMC (Carbon Matrix Composite) and the 7 bridges of its movement, also in CMC. A specific technique was used to create them in “directed carbon”, which means that the carbon fibres are placed in a certain direction in the mould, then micro-blasted, giving them a regular and particularly elegant “matt black vertical brushed” appearance. The entire dial is composed of shades of dark grey and black. For example, the hands are faceted and satin-finished, with a Titanium Carbide Coating and anthracite grey SuperLuminova™. Only the jewels (a total of 48 stones in the movement) reveal discreet little touches of red. Combining a cutting-edge mechanical movement design, technical performance using carbon fibre and horological expertise in the development, production and hand assembly at TAG Heuer in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the Monaco V4 Phantom is a stylish, modern version which is ultralightweight and offers extra shock resistance. Its sharp design is particularly unusual for a grand complication watch.

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THE WATCHES

Glashütte Original

Retailers, trade journalists and customers were particularly impressed by Glashütte Original’s Senator Cosmopolite. The new timepiece made by the Saxon manufactory offers a range of intelligent solutions and useful functions that are tailored to the needs of the world traveler. At the heart of the new model beats the Calibre 89-02, a self-winding calibre equipped with an innovative time zone mechanism displaying both home and destination time in all officially valid 37 time zones. The new movement has been designed and manufactured in-house with a special emphasis on ease of use and intuitive handling. Also the other new products presented during Baselworld – design variations of the PanoMaticLunar, PanoReserve and the Senator Observer – were met with great enthusiasm.


THE LUXE REVIEW FUTURE LEADING PROJECTS

THE LUXE REVIEW Our exclusive guide to the finest from the spheres of horology, automobiles, style, travel, design and much more. In the Luxe Review we look at the best, and meet the people that are making it happen.

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THE LUXE ARTS

Artist

Deema Al-Quraini

D

eema’s drawings reflect on everything we face throughout each day. Her work is a reflection of our daily lives; through colors, story and every single detail. Her work also represents the feelings of visions related to mankind, and the conditions of each.

“She was, and always is, searching for something new in art that has meaning and purpose.”

She began drawing and expressing herself at a very young age. Initially she started with composing poetry influenced by her mother – herself a poet. Deema felt the need to express herself through art in its different forms. She star ted reading the biographies of great ar tists, including modern ones, and realized that all of them had to undergo strict training on how to paint and draw before emerging with their own st yle or, as in the case of Picasso and other modern painter s, venturing in to abstractions. “She was, and always is, searching for something new in art that has meaning and purpose.” In 2000, Deema enrolled at the Institute of Theatrical Art at the Kuwait University to major in design and theater decoration. Her first impression on entering the institute was a feeling of enthrallment, in particular when seeing the large-sized paintings in acrylic colors hanging on the walls. When she tried this new media it was then that she felt the true thrill of creation. After graduating in 2004 as a designer and stagedecorator, Deema readily found employment at the


THE LUXE ARTS

Museum of Modern Art. By then she had participated in many exhibitions in Kuwait and abroad, she had also carried out many stage decorations. Her love of Turkish coffee gave her the idea to do an exhibition with another young artist sharing the same social concerns as her own, yet throughout creating paintings with the coffee-grinds that collect at the bottom of the fenjal (the traditional Arabic coffee cup) disclosing secrets or prophesies concerning the person who drank the coffee. She also participated in the latest exhibition that was held at the Museum of Modern Art that celebrated International Women’s Day. Deema has participated in several exhibitions in Kuwait, the GCC and Europe. She always searches for something new through which she can explore her technique by using new ideas and colors in her own way. Drawing for her is the only way she can express herself, and she mentions that she is getting support from Kuwaiti artists that attend the exhibitions, especially that in Kuwait there are many artists who are creative. Deema’s ambition in the art has no limits; she believes that a picture is a common language worldwide.

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THE LUXE CARS

The new Porsche roadster for purists

P

o rsche is beginning the 2015 convertible season by celebrating the world premiere of the new Boxster Spyder at this year’s New York International Auto Show. The new top model in the open two-seater series retains the independent character of the previous Spyder, which has already attained cult status. The classic fabric roof is opened and closed by hand, and the sports car is only available with a manual transmission.

As a true original roadster, the Boxster Spyder offers a traditional spor ts car driving experience but with contemporar y per formance. This means a firm spor ts suspension with a 20-mm lower ride height, brakes taken from the 911 Carrera, more direct steering, and a 3.8-liter six-cylinder engine with an output of 375 hp. Drivers and passengers can look forward to outstanding driving dynamics in the lightest yet most power ful Boxster available. It only takes around 4.5 seconds for the Boxster Spyder to sprint from 0 to 100 km/h; the model’s top speed is 290 km/h. NEDC overall fuel consumption amounts to 9.9 l/100 km. The distinctive design of the Boxster Spyder includes stylistic elements typical for the legendar y spor ts and race cars from Porsche. As a tribute to the 718 Spyder from the 1960s, the new Boxster Spyder has two prominent streamlined bulges that extend down along the long rear lid behind the headrests. The par tially manually operated, lightweight top is suitable for


THE LUXE CARS

ever yday use and brings to mind roadster s from the past, while the fins that stretch back to the rear lend the vehicle’s silhouet te its characteristic design. The front and rear end of the model were taken from the Cayman GT4. More so than in any other Boxster, the interior of the new top model creates an atmosphere that elicits a feeling of pure driving pleasure. The driver and passenger sit in light spor ts bucket seats with large side suppor ts, while the new steering wheel with a diameter of 360 mm helps to ensure that the mid-engine roadster can be driven precisely and with great agility. The Boxster Spyder celebrates its world premiere at the New York International Auto Show. It can be ordered now, with the first vehicles arriving in Kuwait from August onwards. The basic retail price in Kuwait is KD23,200

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THE LUXE CARS

Hybrid VIP transport

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Porsche x Jumeirah Messilah Beach

umeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa, Kuwait’s idyllic resort, has partnered with Porsche Centre Kuwait, Behbehani Motors Company to help raise awareness of environmentally friendly transport options.

The hotel hosted the Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid car at its main entrance to provide an alternative luxur y mode of transpor t for the hotel’s VIP guests and celebrities, while at the same time raising awareness of hybrid cars and educating motorists about reducing fuel consumption and CO2 emissions.

E-Hybrid, Porsche is a market-leader in the production of plug-in hybrid cars and is the only manufacturer to offer three hybrid models. Its E-Hybrid line-up includes the Panamera S E-Hybrid, 918 Spyder and the recently launched Cayenne S E-Hybrid – the world’s first plug-in hybrid in the premium SUV segment.

The Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid is the world’s first plug-in hybrid model on the luxur y class market. The 416 hp model has an electric driving range of up to 36 kilometers after which the vehicle will switch to normal fuel or the driver can recharge it. The car has an NEDC fuel consumption of just 3.1 liters per 100 km which equates to CO2 emissions of just 71 g/km – the same level as a compact car. In addition to the Porsche Panamera S

“This collaboration showcases our commitment to sustainability. We are proud to suppor t an environmentally friendly initiative and to have par tnered with Porsche - a globally recognised and respected automobile brand. It’s impor tant to protect the environment against the harmful emissions of conventional fuel-powered, combustion engine cars. Our guests will not only enjoy the comfor t of Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel and Spa


THE LUXE CARS

but can now take advantage on environment-friendly luxur y transpor t,” said Hakan Petek, General Manager, Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel and Spa. Porsche Centre Kuwait, Behbehani Motors Company— Deputy Group General Manager Roger Kyriacou said: “For more than eight decades Porsche has continued to build on its unrivalled legacy of breaking new automotive ground in the field of sustainability. Porsche Centre Kuwait, Behbehani Motors Company has always been dedicated to environmental protection and finding innovative solutions to reducing fuel consumption and CO2 emissions. The Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid provides advancements

in both efficiency and sportiness and is a pioneering vehicle because it delivers the dynamic performance and power expected from Porsche, while also helping individual owners to reduce their carbon footprint. We are proud of our partnership with Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel and Spa and the important work we will be doing together to raise environmental awareness.” In its commitment to create a positive impact in Kuwait and engage its guests and colleagues, the Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa is actively involved in social responsibility initiatives and activities such as the Ear th Hour, Breast Cancer Awareness, World Autism Day, student school projects, ar t competitions and beach clean-up drives.

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THE LUXE CARS

It All Starts With Michelin Tyres

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New Porsche Macan fitted with new Michelin Latitude Sport 3 tyres

irst times mean a lot – like your first encounter with a new car. So for an unforgettable ride, Porsche chose the new Michelin Latitude Sport 3 as the very first tyre homologated for the new Porsche Macan. It was a case of natural selection. Porsche and Michelin have been inseparable technology partners for five decades. They understand each other. Since 2002, when Michelin began to develop tyres with Porsche for its SUVs, the focus has been on the driving sensation. For the drive, it’s more than a feeling. It’s the quiet satisfaction of that perfect combination. With the new reference in SUV tyres, the Michelin Latitude Sport 3.


THE LUXE CARS

V-KOOL

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A heritage of trust, environment friendliness, and satisfied global consumers

nvented and patented globally by Southwall Technologies USA and now part of the global conglomerate Eastman Chemical Company (NYSE:EMN), V-KOOL™ has been writing its own history since 1996 by perfecting their wavelength selective technology to protect mankind from the harmful IR & Ultraviolet rays of the brightest shining star in our universe – the Sun, by providing a virtually transparent protective barrier. The very same barrier that enables aviation history’s star - the ‘Stealth Bomber’ to evade detection by reducing the aircraft’s radar footprint. To better understand the product, we would then need to look a bit deeper into the product to identify its proper ties or composition. Manufactured at the ISO9001:2000 environment friendly facilities in US and Germany, is a complex coating process using State-of-the-Ar t Multichamber DC Magnetron Sputtering Machine (costing USD24million each); that sputters multi-layers of precious metals in atom form unto the optically-clear and durable polyester film to spectral-selectively block off unwanted wavelength while admitting others. While it may sound simple, the polyester film actually goes through the spluttering process of 7 targets/metals and the result is a 7-layer precious metal incorporated film. That is correct, seven metals including Indium (In) Oxide, Silver (Ag) and for tified by Gold (Au). So no wander then V-KOOL™ films has got a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 200 plus while cosmetic creams have so far been able to claim SPF 70+. Talk about convincing consumers, especially those with sensitive skins! Having known the technology isn’t enough, so that’s why the friendly folks at V-KOOL™ Kuwait offers consumers an oppor tunity experience heat factor using simple scientific instruments such as ‘Thermal Heat Trap’. Believe it or not, one demo experience and you can be assured that you would never ever install any other window film on your vehicle other than V-KOOL™ because that’s how magnificently V-KOOL™ film blocks heat causing Infra-Red (IR) rays and the harmful UltraViolet (UV ) rays. In fact the premium film V-KOOL® -70 rejects 99% UV rays and 94% Infrared rays. This would undoubtedly be the testimony of the premium and brand-conscious 20million car users worldwide.

The Stealth Bomber. V-KOOL technology has been in some high places

And in 2014, V-KOOL™ made another technological breakthrough with their Gen2 films, the world’s first and only 10-layer sputtered stack! Wow, ten precious metals in the form of simple window film for your vehicle. So before you get your hands and face tanned while being in a car/SUV with boiling temperatures and long rides, why not get your vehicle tint inspected at V-KOOL™ Kuwait at the earliest.

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Porsche Motorsport and Chopard at the Six Hours of Silverstone

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n April 12th, Chopard started its second year as official timing partner of Porsche Motorsport. At the Six Hours of Silverstone 2015, the season’s opening round, the two Porsche 919 Hybrid cars led by Mark Webber and Romain Dumas campaigned again for victory on the renowned circuit in the British Midlands. After 30,000 kilometres of testing to significantly further develop the Porsche 919 Hybrid, Porsche began the seasons with strong expectations. The Porsche 919 Hybrid led by Romain Dumas reached the second position in the LMP1 championship and the Porsche 911 RSR arrived second and seventh in the GTE Pro Class race.

Since 2012, the World Endurance Championship has been the ambassador for Le Mans-style endurance racing around the world. One of the most famous moments ever y year at the 24 Hours of Le Mans is the traditional star t procedure where the cars line up alongside the pitwall facing the grand stands. In 2015, the WEC will be using the Le Mans-st yle star t procedure at ever y round, providing a unique experience for racing fans, bringing to Silver stone the spirit of Le Mans. A power ful first round at Silverstone With a racing histor y star ting in 1947, the Silverstone race track is known for being a historical technical race. Teams consider Silverstone to be one of the fastest circuits on the current calendar. Having been built atop an old air field, the Silverstone circuit is a technically difficult track, but a favorite amongst drivers. The track is a mixture of high and low speed corners with some long straights, making it physically demanding for the drivers. Over taking is notoriously difficult. Mark Webber, the new Chopard ambassador confirms: “Silverstone is such a classic track, it’s raw, it’s old school and it’s got a lot of originality.” The two Porsche 919 Hybrids star ted first and second in Silverstone. Brendon Har tley and Mark Webber were at the wheel of the car number 17. Their average lap time of 1:39 minutes secured them the first pole position for the new 919. The sister car number 18 driven by Romain Dumas and Neel Jani reached the second position on the star ting grid. Mark Webber was leading the race when a gearbox problem forced him to stop his Porsche 919 Hybrid.


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Dumas managed to defend his position until his first stop after 24 laps. Dumas, Jani and Lieb took over the lead from their team mates, but later in the race had to concede the win by 4.6 seconds after a breath-taking battle. Sharing the number 18 car, they finished second in what was a thrilling race. Por sche works driver s Michael Christensen and Richard Liet z (Austria) clinched second in the GTEPro class in front of over 45,0 0 0 spectator s with their Por sche 911 RSR. Porsche and Chopard: timing, precision and performance A dedicated special edition Chronograph to celebrate the alliance For the second year, Chopard is proud to be the Official Timing Par tner of Porsche Motorspor t. Per fectly in line with the spirit of the Super fast watch collection, this prestigious par tnership is an extension of Chopard’s longstanding commitment to automotive spor ts. In 2014, Chopard released the Super fast Chrono Porsche 919 edition watch at the 24 Hours of Le Mans. A special edition created to celebrate this alliance. This model, limited to 919 pieces, is inspired by the Porsche 919 Hybrid car, and reflects the values shared by both companies such as the constant quest for excellence. Porsche Motorspor t and Chopard naturally gravitated towards each other around their passion for racing but also for their contribution to per formance and precision in their respective fields. The Super fast watches were the first Chopard Classic Racing watches to be equipped with an in-house movement, chronometer cer tified by the COSC. Worn by Porsche Motorspor t

pilots, the Super fast watches are tested under extreme conditions (speed, temperature, endurance racing) to guarantee a per fect exactitude of the watch. Ever ything Chopard learns from the race track brings the House a step fur ther in it’s development of the Super fast watch collection. The exceptional mechanics emerging from the Por sche Motor spor t and Chopard workshops have significantly influenced their respective fields and remain benchmarks for aficionados of motor spor ts and watchmaking. Chopard takes great pride in its par tner ship with Por sche Motor spor t during the FIA World Endurance Championship. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co -president of Chopard states: “Por sche creates ultimate spor ts car s, successful in racing and exciting to drive on the road. Chopard shares this passion for per formance and excellence. We are proud to accompany Por sche as of ficial timing par tner for their second Endurance racing season.” On the road to “Le Mans” The exceptional driver Jacky Ick x is also par t of the histor y of both companies. The racing legend put his name in the histor y books with his victories in several motorspor t disciplines, and as a longstanding Chopard ambassador. Nicknamed “Mr. Le Mans”, he can lay claim to six victories in this legendar y race, four of which were at the wheel of Porsche. The FIA World Endurance Championship will continue on 2nd May 2015 at Spa Francorchamps in Belgium for a second round to prepare the ver y promising and challenging 2015 edition of the 24 Hour s of Le Mans. The my thical race will take place on June 13th and June 14th 2015.

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Sheikh Abdullah Al Mansour Al-Sabah Collector of Automobiles

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ar collecting is a hobby that appeals to those greatly passionate about expressing themselves by continuously looking for the newest in the world of cars. Many collectors will look after their cars as though they are family.

Such is the way Sheikh Abdullah Al Mansour Al Sabah takes care of his collectibles within the confines of his home garage in West Mishref. Today, his collection is made up of sixteen of the newest and fastest spor ts cars and other classics. By being always keen on adding his personal touch to his cars, Sheikh Abdullah has managed to put together a truly unmatched collection, consisting in large par t of rare or limited edition cars. Sheikh Abdullah’s passion dates back to when he was only sixteen; he then bought a 1993 Porsche; a car which he still has today. Speaking of his passion, Sheikh Abdullah says: “Collecting cars is a dream that has haunted me for years. My private car collection gives me much comfor t. This is why I travel the world and attend international car

shows and races including Formula 1. This passion also drove me to form the Drag 965 team a shor t while ago, in collaboration with Sheikh Mohamed Khaled Al Sabah, as a gesture to suppor t the Kuwaiti youth to par ticipate in international races. We were able, in no time, to break records as we took par t in races held in USA, Qatar, Bahrain and UAE aboard cars holding the title of world record cars.” Another distinction which sets apar t Sheikh Abdullah’s collection is that most cars are customized whether in their external body or interior specs in order to fur ther gain a tone of uniqueness. Our collector says: “I rarely abstain from per forming any adjustments to the cars I buy, as they become par t of my daily life. I want the specs to match my concept of a car.


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Personally, I see the car as a source of comfor t.” Of the most outstanding cars he owns, Sheikh Abdullah says: “Ever y car I own has a stor y behind it. One of these cars is the famous fully equipped Porsche 3.6 of Bad Boys. I increased its speed around threefold, from 300 horsepower “HP” to 900 HP. On the other hand, the customized design of the Lamborghini was created especially by a Japanese designer to be the only car in the world having such a body. The collection also features the rare Mercedes Benz SLR McLaren 722 S.” But this is not all. Sheikh Abdullah’s collection includes a number of the rarest vintage cars in the world, with each having an exceptional stor y to tell about how Sheikh Abdullah owned it. One of these cars is from Carroll Shelby, the world’s most renowned car designer. This

car is number 10 0 0. It is the last car Shelby designed before his death. He wanted it to be special as it was number 10 0 0, so he designed it in black and called it “The Widow Maker.” Unfor tunately, he did not live to design another car and so this one was his last. Alongside these vintages, the collection has room for famous movie car s and a super fast but old model 1934 Hot Rod.” Sheikh Abdullah Al Subah makes sure to drive all his car s regularly. He also enter s into car exhibitions and contests in Kuwait. His favourite is a Por sche Carrera GT in black - considered to be the rarest colour available of this car. “The latest car I purchased”, he says, “is the F12 Ferrari; it’s the fir st super fast car that appealed to me”.

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A Dealer’s Story

Fouad Alghanim Automotive

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in conversation with Tarek Al Shafie, General Manager and Dealer Principal

manufacturer can only ever be as good as his dealer. Much effort goes in to first selecting a local dealer, and then greater effort still in maintaining the corporate message. Kuwait is replete with professional and successful dealerships – and Fouad Alghanim Automotive stands comfortably as a fine example. We met their General Manager, Tarek Al Shafie, to learn more about the relationship with their brand, their customers, and looked at the year ahead.

Audi is the newest of the German marques to be introduced to Kuwait but is currently the most active in development. How do you see the perception of Audi in the local market has evolved over the past five years? The perception has changed and only to the better. The brand is more present, not just in the media, malls and other proactive marketing initiatives, but the car market has grown exponentially over the last ten years and more noticeable over the past five years. The brand has increased the model range, which caters to a wider demographic, and the models are designed to be progressive, spor ty and sophisticated, which fur ther enhances the brand appeal and customer engagement.

How have FAA engaged with the motoring public in order to educate and inform? We implemented a strategy in 2009 where we take the products out to the public. We were the first to implement new model launches in public venues, specifically in malls, as opposed to the previous norms of ballroom launches with a specific and limited number of invitees. The same concept has also been applied to mall activities where we showcase what is new to the brand with a focus on technology, innovations and advancements. Together with the Audi, we organize driving events, to fur ther enhance the customer engagement and in an environment where we can educate the customers and showcase the product.


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Audi is at the forefront of 21st centur y motoring engineering. How is this engineering excellence reflected in your after-sales ser vice?

H ow w i l l t h e s u cce s s o f Au d i i n Ku wa i t t ra n s l a t e i n t o t h e d eve l o p m e n t o f n ew f a ci l i t i e s h e re?

Key-readers that contain all the vehicle’s key information are available on ever y Service Advisor’s station, however this technology has been in place since 2009 with the introduction of the next generation keys. Earlier this year we automated the vehicle health check, with the use of tablets. During the vehicle inspection with the customer and our qualified technicians, the service advisor enters any and all the issues with a customer’s vehicle and we are able to immediately quote customers for additional work.

In September 2014 Audi Kuwait, represented by Fouad Alghanim & Sons Automotive Company, announced the construction of the new Audi Terminal.

This technological initiative reduces the amount of time the vehicle remains at our Service Center as we are able to quote instantly with the presence of the customer, as opposed to inspecting the car and rever ting back to the customer at a later stage albeit a day or more. Inside the workshop we have vehicle brake testers that allow us to address braking issues in a safe and controlled environment. As you can see our initiatives are technologically oriented but with the ultimate focus on customers and customer satisfaction. Along the same lines we have recently installed customer feedback kiosks that allow customer to quickly provide feedback regarding our service, and the Service Manager is immediately prompted by email in any situation that requires correction, prior to the customer leaving our premises. In the near future we will also be introducing RFID cards to fur ther enhance the customer experience, whether it be in our premises or at off-location events.

Which key models do you feel will secure Audi’s future growth in Kuwait?

The “Terminal” complies with Audi’s newest CI standards and the project will provide customer s with a seamless integration between new cars, used cars and aftersales, under one roof in one location. The aftersales workshop will accommodate over 100 work bays - the largest in the Middle East.

Audi is continuously introducing new models to the market, and all models have been instant hits, all securing additional growth in sales. The A5 family consisting of the Coupé and Cabriolet that were introduced in 2008 and 2009, respectively followed by the Spor tback in 2010 created a whole new segment in the automotive industr y and all 3 models have been a major contributor to our success in Kuwait and to the brand worldwide. The A5 family was followed by an equally successful A7 launch in 2012, again creating a brand new segment of vehicles. At this time of year we look forward to the next generation Audi Q7, which will released by the beginning of the 4th quar ter of 2015 , which we believe will fur ther enhance our sales growth and market presence.

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Burberry Prorsum Mens Spring / Summer 2015

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urberry’s Prorsum Menswear Spring/Summer 2015 collection was inspired by acclaimed novelist and travel writer Bruce Chatwin. When first shown, in June 2014, it also featured an exclusive live performance by British singer songwriter Benjamin Clementine.

The collection, entitled ‘Book Covers & Bruce Chatwin’ features original illustrations and typographic prints that take their creative lead from vintage English book covers. Ar tworks were designed and painted in-house before being printed onto cashmere, cotton and leather. Guests attending the show included British musicians Tinie Tempah, Dan Gillespie Sells, George Craig and George Barnett, actors Tom Felton, Sam Reid, George MacKay, Joe Dempsie, Bolin Chen, Engin Hepileri and Raymond Lam, British model Jourdan Dunn, producer Mohammed Al Turki, and British presenters and DJs Greg James and Nick Grimshaw. British musician Will Joseph Cook played a live set as guests arrived which was followed by a per formance by Burberr y Acoustic ar tist Josh Record after the show. The Collection Fabrics: English-woven gabardine from the Burberr y Mill, selvedge denim, linen, double cashmere, cotton velvet and nubuck. Colours: dusty colours and weathered tones of orange red, light copper, storm blue and saffron yellow Silhouettes: trench coats, denim jackets under tailoring, field jackets, English duffle coats, lean Chester fields and cabans. Accessories: introducing the Burberr y Travel Satchel, the Burberr y Ever yday Satchel, the Burberr y Field Sneaker, the Burberr y Campaign Hat and book cover print leather notebooks.


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THE LUXE STYLE

“The collection, entitled

‘Book Covers & Bruce Chatwin’ features original illustrations and typographic prints.”


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“English-woven gabardine from the

Burberry Mill, selvedge denim, linen, double cashmere, cotton velvet and nubuck .”

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Harvey Nichols Kuwait

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Whatever your preference may be, Harvey Nichols Kuwait has housed the exclusive contemporary brands: Buscemi, Domrebel, Public School and Off-White in the Harvey Nichols all-new menswear department. The detailed leather pair of Buscemi high tops can complement a t-shirt made in the garage of the Domrebel residence perfectly. You can also match Public School’s fascinating fabrics with an eccentric pair of shorts from Off-White.

Buscemi High Tops Buscemi is an American global luxur y house founded in 2013. Jon Buscemi, founder and creative director, operates the contemporar y/modern business with an old school approach, overseeing ever y design drawn, material selected, and construction detail. BUSCEMI’s product is hand-made in Italy at factories that are dedicated to the craft of luxur y. Today, BUSCEMI remains in select high-end global retailers, producing limited runs of each style per season, as well as a small selection of regularly released brand staples. Brand extensions, including women’s and small leather goods, will be released for the SS15 season.


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D o m r e b e l T- S h i r t s J u s t i n S va t i n a a n d D o n N g u ye n we r e 21-ye a r- o l d s t u d e n t s i n M o n t r é a l w i t h 3 5 0 $ c a s h b e t we e n t h e m a n d a d e s i r e to c r e a te a t te n t i o n - g r a b b i n g t- s h i r t s f o r t h e m s e l ve s a n d t h e i r f r i e n d s . W i t h n o f a s h i o n t r a i n i n g , t h ey d r e w u p s o m e d e s i g n s w i t h p e n c i l o n p a p e r, s e t u p a g h e t to wo r k s h o p a t t h e i r p a r e n t s’ g a r a g e a n d h a n d m a d e s o m e t- s h i r t s . Pe o p l e to l d t h e m n o t to g e t i n to f a s h i o n s i n c e i t wa s to o c o m p e t i t i ve . N o s to r e s wa n te d to b u y t h e i r te e s , s o t h ey s o l d t h e m a t a l o s s to f r i e n d s , w h o s t a r te d we a r i n g t h e m a r o u n d M o n t r é a l. T h ey s t u f f e d a h a n d f u l o f te e s i n to a d u f f e l b a g a n d h e a d e d a c r o s s C a n a d a , k n o c k i n g d o o r-to d o o r a t t h e b e s t r e t a i l e r s a c r o s s t h e c o u n t r y. B y t h e e n d o f t h e i r t r i p, t h ey h a d o r d e r s f r o m 5 0 of t h e b e s t s to r e s a c r o s s C a n a d a . B e i n g a p a r t o f D o m r e b e l m e a n s t h a t yo u a r e awa ke . T h e i r m e s s a g e i s to i n s p i r e yo u to wa ke u p, to b e a n ex a m p l e f o r yo u to n o t s e t t l e f o r exc u s e s o r f e a r a n d to h e l p yo u s h ow t h e wo r l d w h o yo u r e a l l y a r e .

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Public School New York Ever y consideration has been made to produce our collection here in New York. While all our fabric and cloth have been sourced by the best mills around the world, including Japan and Italy, New York is truly home and crucial to our unique point of view. Through the hands of two centuries wor th of production histor y, we strive to produce a garment that will last a lifetime and be something we can say was proudly made in New York.


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Of f-White Off-White is a fashion label rooted in current culture at a taste-level par ticular to now, with a specific opinion and, not necessarily with the same vision as seasonal men’s collections are offered. Their SS15 collection entitled “Moving Still” is about freezing a sense of motion. Inspired by the repetitive and rambunctious nature of waves, Virgil Abloh aimed to capture that energy and abstracting into the clothing of the season in numerous ways. The play on words itself too provides an oxymoron juxtaposition that prevails in emotion for the garments. As evident in paint splatter or the motion of militar y patches being thrown against a garment, the concept manifests itself, making the clothes a canvas for the ar tistic expression of the season. The muse of the collection was based on a Baja sur f stor y evident on cut-off denim shor ts, tattered shir ting, faded outerwear to create a sense of ever yday wear. Floral prints are utilized to reinforce the Oceanside nature of the collection. Even neoprene motorcycle jackets have been tied into the theme of ocean living. With the collection largely made in Italy and Europe, the main goal is to transcend the street rationale and apply true design concept to graphic menswear using the best fabrics and techniques to communicate the brand identity. With the fearlessly stylish attitude that Harvey Nichols Kuwait carries, a unique concept known as The Box Campaign was developed to keep customers engaged for what’s yet to come. Look out for The Box Campaign on Instagram to know more - #ThinkInsideTheBoxQ8 Har vey Nichols Kuwait is located at Grand Avenue – The Avenues. Opening hours are from 10 am till midnight on Thursday, Friday and Saturday and 10 am to 11 pm from Sunday to Wednesday. Please call 22283008 for more information. You can also get social with Har vey Nichols Kuwait by following them on Facebook.com/Har veyNicholsKuwait and Instagram @Har veyNicholsKuwait

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Hackett London

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British Polo Day

ackett London proudly sponsored British Polo Day Dubai, marking the second leg of its annual UAE Series. Warming up to the 20th Anniversary World Cup weekend, the Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club welcomed over 700 VIPs and guests for a lavish lunch and mixed matches on camels, bikes and horses!

Hackett London’s first pop-up-store in the Middle East added a dash of style and panache to the 5th edition of British Polo Day Dubai. Polo players like Pablo MacDonough raised a glass to the Hackett Thesiger Trophy and historical and cultural ties that bind Great Britain to Dubai and brings people together over the international languages and love of horses. Hackett holds a special line, Polo Picnic, in its collection for the British Polo Days. Hackett injects fun, explosive colors in a playful polo manner. The ‘Polo Picnic’ is pictured as the fun Saturday afternoon getting ready to watch the match; a picnic on the grass where miniature cupcakes were served in lightweight summer tweeds and thick Oxford cottons all in bright tones and floral and paisley patterns. Reversible cuff shorts revealing a contrasting fabric are new introductions within the collection, combined with a bright


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Prince Alexei Cantacuzene Count Speransky won Hackett’s ‘Best Dressed Male’!

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Maison De Sheikh When East meets West

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arely does East meet West but when they do they come to offer both you and your home this rather exciting fragrant addition that is Maison De Sheikh.

Maison De Sheikh combines Parisienne Chic and sophistication with ancient Arab knowledge and fragrance ‘nose’ finesse in six beautifully packaged and presented home diffuser sets. These carefully chosen scents transform any home or living area into an elegant setting that quietly perfumes your environment day after day reed after reed. While it is easy choosing Maison De Sheikh to fragrance your

home the decision is a little harder when choosing which of these wonderful scents to go for? The ocean blue freshness and colours of Fraicheur Marine? The relaxing subtle notes of Lavande Noir? The more darkly seductive combination of Bois Du Tabbana? The morning freshness that is Citron Verbana? Or nature’s Etoile Jasmin or Rose Victorienne? The Maison De Sheikh home diffuser range is available through all UTC stores, Saveco, Souq.com and other Key outlets.


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THE LUXE GROOMING

ETERNITY Summer Calvin Klein

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tranquil beach sky, the mist of the vast ocean. the feeling of summer on the horizon.

ETERNITY summer for men Calvin Klein opens with an energizing burst of grapefruit and spicy black pepper, mingled with an uplifting ocean air accord. aromatic notes of fig leaf, cypress and juniper berry impart a rich, confident masculinity that dries down to an enveloping signature of warm driftwood, sensual musk, and magnetic amber. Packaging The signature ETERNITY summer and ETERNITY summer for men bottles are refreshed in bold multicolor side and base treatments of soft peach and lavender and golden yellow and teal, respectively, while the packaging captures the vibrant waterfront scene of the sun, sea, and sky, vivid with color.


THE LUXE GROOMING

Tom Ford For Men Beard Oil And Comb

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energizing burst of grapefruit and spicy black pepper, mingled with an uplifting ocean air accord.” “An

om Ford introduces two additions to the tom ford for men skincare and grooming collection: the tom ford conditioning beard oil and tom ford beard comb.

An intensely personal way to wear scent, the TOM FORD CONDITIONING BEARD OIL is available in three iconic Tom Ford Private Blend fragrances—Neroli Portofino, Tobacco Vanille and Oud Wood. This lightweight oil fortifies and re-textures the beard creating a non-greasy and groomed luster as it conditions and nourishes with an exclusive blend of almond, jojoba and grape seed essential oils as well as the natural antioxidant Vitamin E. Neroli Portofino perfectly captures the cool breezes, sparkling waters and lush foliage of the Italian Riviera while featuring crisp citrus oils, surprisingly floral notes and amber undertones. Tom Ford’s affection for London inspired Tobacco Vanille, which is reminiscent of an English gentleman’s club, redolent with spice and including the essence of creamy tonka bean, vanilla, cocoa, dry fruit accords and sweet wood sap. Oud Wood highlights of the most precious and expensive ingredients in the perfumer’s arsenal mixed with exotic rose wood cardamom to give way to a smoky blend of rare oud wood, sandalwood and vetiver. The TOM FORD BEARD COMB is designed to create the perfect beard. Hand crafted in Switzerland, this sleek comb comes in a vintage inspired tortoise-shell finish and is stamped with a silver Tom Ford logo. Made for durability and conveniently sized for travel, the TOM FORD BEARD COMB smoothes unruly facial hair and helps evenly distribute the TOM FORD CONDITIONING BEARD OIL, leaving the beard looking well-kept and lustrous. When used with the Beard Oil, it effectively minimizes damage to the facial hair or irritation to the skin.

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THE LUXE TRAVEL

Rome

Rome

Maximus, among many others.

Audrey Hepburn’s classic 1953 film Roman Holiday made trips to Italy’s ancient capital seem dreamily romantic – and with good reason. Whether visiting the impressive city for the first time or returning to experience it all over again, the unique blend of history and culture ensure holidays in Rome offer an unparalleled experience.

Of course, Rome’s cultural influence didn’t die with the Roman Empire. The achievements of the Renaissance from the 13th to 16th centuries marked Italy as a world centre of culture once again, and many important artworks from this era can be seen in Rome’s galleries and museums.

Sightseeing in Rome Sightseeing in Rome is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Explore the sights of Ancient Rome on your holiday, starting with the magnificent Colosseum, constructed in the first century AD. This enormous amphitheatre is an icon of Rome’s past glories and sat 50,000 people in its heyday. Right next to it, the Arch of Constantine, which dates back to 315 AD, attracts visitors from around the world. For an overarching vista of Rome’s ancient attractions, climb up one of its seven hills and catch a glimpse of iconic sights like the Pantheon and the Circus

And the Italian Baroque period that followed saw the construction of major landmarks like the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, now two of the popular attractions with people on Rome holidays. Essential activities in Rome In addition to sightseeing, there are several things that visitors in Rome must do for an authentic taste of the city. Here, the culinary delights are nearly endless; try real Italian coffee, indulge in a delicious pizza in the land that made it famous or enjoy a scoop of gelato on a hot Roman day.


THE LUXE TRAVEL

Roman Culture Roman culture is a hotbed of influences, from the longstanding traditions of ancient Rome to today’s cultural attractions. Stay at the Jumeirah Grand Hotel Via Veneto to enjoy sumptuous accommodation in the heart of upmarket Rome, near its ancient sights and modern cultural venues. Culture of Ancient Rome Culture in Ancient Rome was strongly influenced by the Ancient Greeks, and performances of classic plays and mythologies took place in amphitheatres across the Empire. Painting and sculpture was a lively form of artistic expression and was influenced by the Etruscans, a pre-Roman civilisation. Many of the wonders of Roman art can now be seen at the Capitoline Museums in Rome. However, one of the most important facets of Ancient Roman culture was architecture. A quick walk around Old Rome will

reveal the majestic ruins of the old Empire, with buildings like the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Pantheon attracting visitors in droves. To see a model of Ancient Rome in all its glory, a trip to the Museum of Rome’s Civilisation is essential. Rome today Today, Rome has a strong culture that fuses its ancient values and later Baroque heritage with a modern outlook. It’s also a strongly Catholic culture, and attracts pilgrims from all over the world. Visit the Vatican, an independent state nestled within Rome, to explore the holiest building in Catholicism and see the famous Sistine Chapel. Back in the city, explore many galleries in Rome where you’ll find works by famous Italian artists like Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael. When the sun goes down, there’s no better way to enjoy the city’s culture at night than with a glass of exquisite Italian wine and a plate of authentic Roman food in one of its many hip restaurants.

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THE LUXE ZEITGEIST

ZEITGEIST Good design, where form and function come together so exquisitely, should always be celebrated.

This month Men’s Passion features some of the most desirable and well executed products that define the times in which we are living.

Versace Home 2015 La Coupe Des Dieux - Capsule Collection


THE LUXE ZEITGEIST

For the Salone del Mobile 2015 Versace Home presented a special capsule collection of the brand new chair La Coupe des Dieux. Created by artistic director Donatella Versace, the new chair is enhanced by a unique leather finishing available in four colours: pearl grey, red, turquoise and black. The softened and sensual piece, with its iconic Medusa on the back, is exclusively available to order from at Versace Boutiques in Milano: Via Montenapoleone, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and Versace Home Boutique in Via Borgospesso.

elegance of art nouveau design, and the modernity and innovation of Versace.� “The

The resulting La Coupe des Dieux chair echoes the elegance of art nouveau design, and the modernity and innovation of Versace.

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The Superyacht Rendezvous Montenegro

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eflecting the lifestyles of superyacht owners, the Superyacht Rendezvous debuts in Montenegro, a destination which has in recent years distinguished itself as a leading luxury location and a superyacht hot spot.


THE LUXE YACHTS

The Superyacht Rendezvous Montenegro focuses on the social side of the industry and welcomes both sailing and motor superyachts from 30m and upwards. This unique event, which builds on the success of the Rendezvous in Monaco, is renowned for providing superyacht owners with the opportunity to make the most of their yachts in the company of like-minded peers. Superyacht owners, along with their friends and family, will gather at a very special launch edition of this annual event, which takes place at the prestigious host location of Porto Montenegro from 2–5 July 2015. A first-class programme of events concludes with an über glamorous “season opening” party at the venue’s exclusive Lido Mar Pool Club.

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THE LUXE YACHTS

Palm Beach 42 ‘Entry-level luxury’

B

rand new for 2015, the Palm Beach 42 takes over the honor of being the smallest model in the distinguished Australian Palm Beach line. The compact and efficient 42 shares the same build features as every Palm Beach motor yacht, including the latest technology that ensures the strongest yet lightest-weight hulls in the industry. Her semi-displacement bottom and low center of gravity will provide owners with a sure and stable ride, with projected speeds up to 36 knots.

Mark Richards Founder & Ceo at Palm Beach Motor Yacht Australia refers: “The new PB42 is one of the most spacious boats in it’s class with the one of best layouts I have seen in a boat of this size. It is a beautiful performing boat with speeds well over 36 knots and is one of the most fuel efficient in the market place today. Most importantly, the build quality is absolutely second to none and able to offer this yacht with a competitive base price of under USD $1million”. Onboard the 42, find a one-or-two-stateroom layout with the galley up or down, depending on owner needs. The master stateroom features a king-sized bed, plenty of hanging and drawer storage, and an ensuite head. For increased security and utility underway, the 42 shares the incredible flush deck walk-ups that are featured on the 52.

The power package is a single Volvo D-6 @435Hp shaft drive diesel engine with optional Volvo IPS available to European market. Hull & superstructure is built using the latest technology in composite boat construction. E-Glass, Corcell® and Airex® foam, Duflex paneling, stitched multiaxial fabric, vinyl-ester and epoxy resins are used to produce and extremely strong and lightweight hull. The latest chapter in the rapidly growing Palm Beach success story, these sleek, contemporary, high-performance motor-yachts are the head-turning exception in a crowded field of Downeast style yachts. The unmatched ride, seaworthiness, and meticulous joinery work are hallmarks of every Palm Beach model. Palm Beach 42 is the yard entry level to luxury.


THE LUXE YACHTS


THE LUXE EVENTS

Fashion - a Form of Artistic Expression

Abdulla Al Awadi is a versatile, passionate and multitalented persona; thinking outside the box, he creates a harmonious balance between fashion and art. His recent exhibition “Roaming Patterns”, hosted at Kuwait’s Dar al Funoon during April, showcased rich designs of kaftans, adornments, bags and paintings, reflecting Kuwait’s classicism, reframing fashion as a visual medium of art. Roaming Patterns highlights ideas reflected in patterns detailed on bags and adornments, spreading a message depicting Kuwait’s heritage. Several of the cultural designs are inspired by the Kuwaiti movie “Bas Ya Bar (Enough, Oh Sea)”; the collection completed by paying homage to the old Kuwaiti flag design. Kaftans are exquisitely designed and definitely a strong representation of one’s keenness to artistic radiance. The adornments are another elucidation of the designer’s aim to inculcate personal representation communicating the state of the owner as interpreted by the viewer. Abdulla Al Awadi obtained a Degree in Architecture and Photography and a Masters in Urban Design and Town Planning at Miami University in Florida, USA. He continues to teach at the College of Architecture, Kuwait University. Abdulla also played a significant role as one of the collaborators in the Kuwait Pavilion at the Venice Biennale 2014.


THE LUXE EVENTS


THE LUXE EVENTS

Change The Silence

Curated by Visual Therapy, with artworks donated by talented local artists F160, Shahad Al-Asfour, Wael AlKhars, Thuraya Lynn, Zouz The Bird, Bedour Ahmed, Essa Ramadan, Abdullah “Nizzy” Al Enezi, and Nawaf Abdulkarim held an exhibition at Kuwait’s Contemporary Art Platform where all proceeds went towards child protection initiatives. Sexual, Physical, Verbal and Neglect; Four words that constitute the form of Abuse undergone by a child. In the Middle East where our cultural state of mind is synonymous with “Silence keeps the peace going…” The Kuwait Child Rights Society in Collaboration with the Ministry of Health in Kuwait took direct action by unveiling the numbers, the restrictions and the stories behind this ongoing problem. The exhibition was followed by the screening of four short films by the Award winning Kuwaiti Director Dana Al-Mijil, which tackle the experience of four children trapped in the world of abuse.


THE LUXE EVENTS

Dar al Funoon

From 6th to 16th April, Kuwait’s leading gallery Dar al Funoon, hosted a group exhibition featuring the works of three Kuwaiti artists Ibrahim Al Atiyah, Mohammad Ramadan, and Mohammad Sarkhouh. Together the artists bring a variety of styles and techniques showcasing the emerging modern talents of Kuwait.

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THE LUXE EVENTS

Launching of “THE ILLOGICAL LOGIC OF MY LIFE”

by Zeina Mokaddam

Kuwait, April 9th, 2015--Gathering a number of friends, family and colleagues, Zeina Mokaddam launched her book at CAP (Contemporary Art Platform) on the 7th of April. Published by That Al-Salasil, the Illogical Logic Of My Life, is an autobiography with a creative twist. The book narrates Zeina’s life path, summarizing her real life struggles and philosophical dilemmas throughout the stages of her life up until drawing her own conclusions and coping strategies. In very simple words filled with humor and wit, equations and illustrations, Zeina transcends the details of her own experiences, touching on the human struggle in all of us. The book is a creative representation of human thoughts, combining a number of genres: Though it is an autobiography, it does not delve into the details. Though satirical, it is not a satire. Though it will make you laugh, it is not comic. It targets people of both genders from ages of 17 to 70+. For those who are 17, this book will hopefully make them feel that they are not alone in their struggles and that, with resilience, there is always light at the end of the tunnel. For those who are 70+, hopefully this book will make them laugh as they reminisce over their own laughter as they were facing their struggles. It is a book of contradictions; it reveals a lot, without saying much. It tackles the most complicated issues, in the simplest form. It is a short read, that has a far reaching impact lasting longer than its pages. The Illogical Logic of My life is now available in Kuwait in all That Al-Salasel bookstores including the airports.


THE LUXE EVENTS

Radiomir Ceramica – 45mm Exclusively For The Kuwaiti Market

After the opening of its first boutique in Kuwait in 2012, Officine Panerai confirms its special interest in the growing Kuwaiti market for high-end watchmaking with the Radiomir Ceramica – 45mm, a Special Edition produced in only 78 units, available exclusively at the Panerai boutique in Al Hamra Tower, Kuwait. The Radiomir Ceramica presents a new combination of a Radiomir case (45 mm in diameter), made entirely of matt black ceramic, and a black dial of extraordinary clarity and legibility as a result of its sandwich structure and minimalist design, with uniquely distinctive large figures. The result is a watch of strongly sporting character, with an immediately recognisable Panerai identity – faithfully reproducing the shape of the first watches created in 1936 for the Royal Italian Navy – while providing the performance expected of modern high quality watchmaking. The ceramic used by Panerai is synthesised from zirconium oxide powder, which undergoes a complex series of operations to become a material of remarkable aesthetic impact – a uniform matt black – as well as being very light, extremely tough and highly resistant to scratches and external shocks. The water-resistance of the case is 10 bar (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres). The movement of the new Radiomir Ceramica (PAM00612) is the hand-wound OP X calibre, and the watch is supplied with a strap made of natural green canvas.

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THE LUXE EVENTS

Harvey Nichols Kuwait Unveils Dazzling New Footwear Boutique

Harvey Nichols Kuwait, the international luxury lifestyle destination offering exclusivity in fashion and beauty, is pleased to announce the launchof its second ‘Think Inside the Box’campaign event with the stunning unveiling of its newly expanded footwear and shoe boutique. The evening was additionally enlivened with music and entertainment and showcased an exciting array of international footwear by innovative designers including Alberto Moretti, trendsetting Italian designer Joshua Sanders and Finnish designer MinnaParikka whose new range brings a blast of Asian pop to Kuwait.Italian designer LEO added an ironic and quirky flavour the season’s new look, yet retained a very

feminine touch. Spanish brand Manebi presented a casual cool aesthetic inspired by different European regions, while Sergio Rossi’s shoewear drew acclaim from guests for his celebration of femininity and modernity. The ‘Think Inside the Box’ events have been designed to introduce the fun and edgy aspects of Harvey Nichols Kuwait and establish the brand as a leading destination for designer accessories in Kuwait. The third and final event will be arriving soon and will focus on their expanded jewellery collection. For more details on ‘Think inside the Box’, follow @harveynicholskuwait #ThinkInsideTheBoxQ8 on Instagram.


THE LUXE EVENTS

THE ART OF CREATIVITY: ‘Behind The Scenes’

The exhibition will showcase photography by some of the world’s most accomplished ‘on-set’ photographers. JaegerLeCoultre and Finch & Partners are delighted to have the opportunity to celebrate this visual art of photography, allowing us all the opportunity to travel back and rediscover some legendary films as well as iconic directors and actors. Many of the images are extremely rare and some have never been exhibited before. Each photograph has been specially curated by photographic expert, John Ingledew. The world of cinema allows us all to dream, and a huge number of people are involved in the production of a film.

From actor to director, cameraman to editor, costume designer to sound recordist and film score composer to set photographer, each tells their part of the story and contributes to the final product in a unique and important way. All are artists in their given field. It is this artistic ingenuity and the importance of the visual art of photography that Jaeger-LeCoultre and Finch & Partners will celebrate with this exhibit. Media management and all aspects of the entertainment business from film and television production to music and live entertainment events.

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THE LUXE EVENTS

Gold’s Gym steps it up in Kuwait

Gold’s Gym, Kuwait is proud to launch a high level of service and amenities to the area. They take pride in having the only Cardio Cinema in Kuwait, state of the art layout and design, the newest fitness programs and equipment and professionally hired and trained staff. G ol d’s G y m wa s e s t a b li s he d in 19 6 5 a n d i s k nown a s th e “ Me c c a of B o d y b uil din g” fo r the pa s t 50 ye a r s. A r n ol d S c hwa r ze ne g g e r a n d the fa m o u s m ovi e, “ Pu mp in g Iro n” p u t G ol d’s G y m o n the m a p. G ol d’s G y m h a s ove r 8 0 0 l o c ati o n s wo r l dwi d e a n d i s in 22 dif fe re nt c o u ntr i e s. T hi s ye a r i s G ol d’s G y m’s 50 th A nnive r s a r y c e l e b r atin g, “A Le g acy of S tre n g th.” T h e B r a n d c re ate d su c h s tre n g th by s t ayin g cu r re nt in th e f i tn e s s in du s tr y a n d s t ayin g cu t tin g e d g e wi th a ll th e tre n d s. T hey t a ke p r i d e in, In du s tr y Be s t Pr ac ti c e s, Profe s s i o na l D eve l o p m e nt, Me mb e r

E xp e r i e n c e a n d s et tin g the s t a n d a r d in the H e a lth club In du s tr y. T he B r a n d s tre n g th i s a l s o a s s o c i ate d with o u r C o m mu nit y O u tre ac h in a s s o c i ati o n with, Edu c atin g a n d sup p o r tin g the c o m mu nit y with d o nati o n s, s e mina r s a n d volunte e r sup p o r t. T hey have p e netr ate d the m a r ket s with g re at p ro g r a m s to at t ack D i a b ete s, a ll fac et s of c a n c e r in c lu din g exe rci s e re c ove r y p ro g r a m s a n d c hil d o b e s it y. Overall, Gold’s Gym is proud to be a par t of the community in Kuwait and looks for ward to a long lasting relationship within helping the area stay strong! Gold’s Gym was of ficially opened in the presence of the Ambassador of the United States of America His Excellency Mr. Douglas Silliman and The Ambassador of Malta His Excellency Mr. Patrick Cole, The UFC World Champion Anderson Silva and Mr. Ehab Al Aradi.




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