Caribbean Beat — May/June 2022 (#170)

A Message

from our CEO This year continues to be one of recovery, and Caribbean Airlines remains committed to resetting your expectations, and consistently adding value to your travel experience.

One approach is through making paying for your travel easier by expanding our interest free payment plan, Caribbean Layaway, to include all destinations in our network, except the domestic air bridge between Trinidad and Tobago.

Now, from as little as 25% down, you can hold bookings for travel, ranging from two to 12 months prior to your departure date. Opening a layaway plan is simple, and can be completed in a few short steps at all City Ticket Offices in our network and through our Reservations Sales & Customer Support Call Centre.

Another offering, which has been very well received, is our pre-order meal service. When you fly, you have a choice of a full Caribbean menu, which can be reserved and paid for up to 36 hours before your flight.

Caribbean Airlines has the largest network in the region. And, in our on-going mission to better connect the Caribbean, we’ve re-introduced some familiar destinations like flights to/from Trinidad and Suriname, Havana and Curaçao. These services are timed to facilitate convenient connections to other points in our network, and you can take

#REcalibrated

advantage of our exciting promotions.

service of the entire new 737-8 fleet.

In March, we operated a few charters between Houston, Guyana and Trinidad, and are working with the regulatory authorities to introduce scheduled commercial service soon. We are excited by the prospect of operating into the fourth largest city in the United States. Houston is well known for its strong economy, as a major hub for oil and gas multi-nationals, and now as having one of the youngest, fastestgrowing and most diverse populations anywhere in the world. The city provides the ideal balance for doing business and indulging in exciting and educational leisure activities. You will hear more about Houston in the near future.

Our Cargo Team continues to innovate and to differentiate themselves as leaders in the region. Our cargo load factors were above the industry average, and we are seeing positive traction through our live presence on the platform www.

CargoAi.co, which offers our customers a more streamlined approach to meet their freight requirements. Our comprehensive global network ensures that perishable goods, machinery, plants, and other shipping needs are conveniently met and competitively priced.

At our southern base in Trinidad’s Piarco International Airport, plans are well under way to remodel the business class lounge, Club Caribbean. The refreshed space will be larger for greater comfort and redecorated with a more modern contemporary finish, reflecting our Caribbean identity.

Along with the refurbished lounge, our brand will be reflected with redesigned uniforms for our Cabin Crew. We are particularly proud of the fact that the new uniform was created by employees and reflects the energy and vivacious spirit of our people. The second half of the year will also see the entry into

We’re halfway through 2022, in our 15th year of operating, and our teams are re-energised to deliver the signature Caribbean hospitality that is integral to our brand. We have placed additional focus on re-tooling and re-training to be even more efficient in our service delivery, and we have some transformative plans for the latter half of this year.

Remember to keep informed and follow our social media channels as we recalibrate and deliver on our commitment to reset expectations in 2022.

Regards, Garvin

CaribbeanAirlines

Contents No. 170 • May/June 2022

20 38

30 EMBARK

10 The Buzz

Make the most of May and June across the region, from festivals and events; to the magic of turtlewatching; and our latest music picks ARRIVE

20 Bucket list

Peak to peak Towering over the Caribbean’s oftenphotographed beaches and bays are gruelling hikes to challenge even the hardiest outdoor adventurers.

Kristine de Abreu takes you up the island peaks that summon the most intrepid among us

30 Take 5

YouTubers of the Caribbean Caribbean content creators have been producing a range of video material on YouTube and other platforms, attracting hundreds of

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thousands of viewers from around the world. Laura Dowrich recommends five of her favourites

34 Offtrack

Sacred passage Annette Arjoon-Martins takes us into Guyana’s Barima Mora Passage — part of the Amazon ecoregion, home to unspoilt mangrove, an array of endangered species, and thriving Indigenous culture — and shares why she and her team are working so hard to protect it

38 Portfolio

Bridging the divide This year, Caribbean artists will have their biggest ever presence at two of the world’s most significant contemporary art events — the Venice Biennale and documenta fifteen. Janine Mendes-Franco learns more

48 Puzzles

Enjoy our Spot the Difference and other fun brain teasers!

Caribbean Beat An MEP publication

Editor Caroline Taylor Designer Kevon Webster General manager Halcyon Salazar Senior editorial assistant Shelly-Ann Inniss Editorial assistant Kristine De Abreu Production manager Jacqueline Smith Finance director Joanne Mendes Publisher Jeremy Taylor

Business Development Manager, Tobago and International Evelyn Chung T: (868) 684 4409 E: evelyn@meppublishers.com Business Development Representative, Trinidad Tracy Farrag T: (868) 318 1996 E: tracy@meppublishers.com

Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. 6 Prospect Avenue, Long Circular, Maraval 120111, Trinidad and Tobago T: (868) 622 3821/6138 E: caribbean-beat@meppublishers.com Websites: meppublishers.com • caribbean-beat.com Cover Located in the crater of an old volcano between Morne Micotrin (Macaque) and Morne Trois Pitons, Boeri Lake is Dominica’s highest (2,850ft), and its second largest Photo Nature Picture Library/Alamy Stock Photo

Printed by SCRIP-J, Trinidad and Tobago

Read and save issues of Caribbean Beat on your smartphone, tablet, computer, and favourite digital devices!

Caribbean Beat is published six times a year for Caribbean Airlines by Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. It is also available on subscription. Copyright © Caribbean Airlines 2022. All rights reserved. ISSN 1680–6158.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the written permission of the publisher. MEP accepts no responsibility for content supplied by our advertisers. The views of the advertisers are theirs and do not represent MEP in any way.

Website: www.caribbean-airlines.com

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Caribbean A Message Connections

from our CEO

W

hen you hear the word Caribbean, your mind may drift to sun, pristine beaches, sumptuous cuisine, and vibrant energy. While this is all true, there is another equally exciting aspect of the Caribbean that deserves our attention: the leaders who have emerged over time — in business, academia, sports, music, culture and the arts, engineering, and other areas.

Given the beautifully complex and diverse nature of the region, the backgrounds and experiences of well-known personalities and trailblazers can help motivate, encourage and propel others. One definition of leadership by Peter Drucker speaks to the role of a leader as “lifting a person’s vision to higher sights, the raising of a person’s performance to a higher standard, the building of a personality beyond its normal limitations”.

At Caribbean Airlines, we recognise that our function goes beyond physically connecting this vast archipelago. We have an opportunity to be a unifying force to facilitate co-operation and foster a deeper understanding of our region, its potential, and the people who have and continue to contribute to its development.

The airline is today a prominent advocate for the Caribbean identity, inclusive of Cuba, Curaçao, Guyana and Suriname. We’ve actively supported cultural, business and other activities regionally. Further, we introduced this column in the magazine — The Caribbean Identity — and through it invited some of the region’s top minds to independently contribute their views on issues that impact each of us.

Now, we are taking another step to connect our people, and will introduce a regional thought leadership series called Caribbean Connections. This initiative will use Caribbean Airlines’ online platforms — YouTube, Facebook, LinkedIn, Twitter, radio and other channels — to have conversations with regional figures in several spheres around their journeys, including the people, experiences, and circumstances that influenced them.

These stories need to be told in a way that can inspire us to raise our own performance as individuals, as countries, and as a region. Our history is rich, and there are many examples of our people who have contributed to the Caribbean and the world. We can proudly claim the seminal writings and reflections of minds like Dr Eric Williams, CLR James, Lloyd Best, Aimé Césaire, Sir Shridath Ramphal, Edwige Danticat, Oonya Kempadoo, Sir Arthur Lewis, and Sharon Maas — to name a few. Our sports personalities are numerous and legendary; many have left an indelible mark on the world stage. In the realm of business past and present, the region has produced giants like Anthony N Sabga, Yesu Persaud, Frank Flowers, Gordon “Butch” Stewart, Helen Bhagwansingh, Trevor Lynch, Robert Yorke, Komal Samaroo, and hundreds more. These luminaries by virtue of their acumen stand head and shoulders with the best in the world, and there is much to be gleaned from them.

Our identity today has been forged from colonial frameworks that still shape our laws, business practices, and direction. Bob Marley sang: “In this great future, you can’t forget your past”. This truth still applies, because a sense of context and an appreciation for history — and the lessons learnt from the experiences of others — provide inimitable references to guide us as we move forward.

“As the river flows there are those who will change its passage”, sang David Rudder. The Caribbean Connections thought leadership series intends to provide another medium where we can learn more about each other’s journeys and the critical success factors that have propelled these people and their businesses to achieve what they have.

However, more than that, it will give us another opportunity to acknowledge and appreciate aspects of our success and the tremendous potential for our region to rise, propelled by the energy, innovation, and creativity of people who were birthed and bred here.

Dionne Ligoure is the Head of Corporate Communications for Caribbean Airlines, and will host the Caribbean Connections series. Contact: dionne.ligoure@caribbean-airlines.com

#REcalibrated

CaribbeanAirlines

Essential info about what’s happening across the region to help you make the most of May and June!

Nyla Singh Photography

A Nrityanjali performance at Queen’s Hall, Trinidad

Don’t miss:

Celebrating Indian heritage 10

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During May and June, three countries — Guyana (5 May), Trinidad & Tobago (30 May), and Suriname (5 June) — commemorate the arrival of the earliest indentured immigrants from India, who migrated in waves beginning in the late 1830s, and whose religions, arts, food, and philosophy have enriched the Caribbean’s diverse cultural landscape. Across the region, cultural groups honour this heritage with performances, education, and historical re-enactments. What’s more, on 2 May, Muslims celebrate Eid-ul-Fitr — the breaking of the fast at the end of the holy month of Ramadan. It is also a public holiday in T&T.

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event buzz

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Festival time At the much-anticipated Antigua Sailing Week (30 April–6 May), witness sailors from all over the world show off their seafaring skills, with excellent music and eats to complete the experience. Later in the month, sister isle Barbuda takes centre stage with their Caribana celebrations (28 May–1 June).

Courtesy the Barbados Celtic Festival

The inaugural Grenada Dive & Conservation Festival (18–23 May) invites divers of all skill levels to discover the beautifully haunting Underwater Sculpture Park, the bustling marine life at over 30 dive sites around the island, and a range of conservation-minded activities like beach clean-ups, hunting of invasive species, and tree planting.

May is a big month in Dominica! In addition to Jazz ‘n Creole (1 May), arts lovers can enjoy concerts, theatre, dance, and workshops at DOMFESTA (Dominica Festival of the Creative Arts). Outdoor enthusiasts, meanwhile, won’t want to miss all the Hike Fest adventures on the first three Saturdays of the month.

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Barbados embraces its Celtic heritage with the Barbados Celtic Festival (12–15 May). Bagpipers, singers and drummers from England, Scotland, Wales and Canada come to the island to celebrate the unique relationship between Bajans and the Celts.

From wandering through Theobroma cacao forest to savouring exquisite chocolate-inspired cuisine, adventures await chocolate lovers and the curious at the Grenada Chocolate Festival (13–18 May).

Frogfish Wreck Diving

The Saint Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival (1–10 May) is back at Gros Islet, with regional and international artists who specialise in jazz and other genres.

Courtesy Sony Music

Jamaican reggae artist Koffee

Guyana Carnival (20–27 May) celebrates Guyana’s Independence, fully embracing the vibrancy of local music, dance and traditions more than the traditional pomp and ceremony.

At Orlando Carnival (27–29 May), get a taste of the Caribbean in the USA with flamboyant costumes, the

latest soca hits, and a community of Caribbean Carnival lovers from across the diaspora.

On 11 June, test your physical prowess in Tobago’s epic international triathlon, Rainbow Cup Tobago, where athletes from around the world will be vying for supremacy.

St Kitts Music Festival is back (24–25 June)! The lineup includes artists like Mr Killa, Koffee, and Nailah Blackman.

Head to St Vincent for Vincy Mas (24 June–5 July) to enjoy the best competitions and performances from local and regional soca artists!

Over the last few months, Soleil Space — a Brooklyn-based media company led by Trinidadian founder and CEO Micha Cooper-Edwards, who last year was featured on Forbes’ Next 1,000 list — has screened over 30 films from directors in more than two dozen countries across Asian, African, Caribbean, Latin American and Middle Eastern diasporas.

It’s all part of their Short Film Saturday series. And now, that series is getting a boost through a new partnership with the Third Horizon Film

Courtesy Soleil Short Film Saturday x Third Horizon

Screen spotlight A scene from Cousins

Festival (twice named one of the 25 Coolest Film Festivals in the World by MovieMaker Magazine).

The Soleil Short Film Saturday x Third Horizon partnership kicks off Saturday 7 May on Soleil Space’s

YouTube channel (youtube.com/ soleilspace), with a line-up that includes Trinidadian Maya Cozier’s She Paradise, and Guyanese-American Mandy Marcus’ Cousins. The second installment streams Saturday 9 July.

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eco buzz

James B. Solomon/ RAPSO Imaging Ltd.

A leatherback turtle makes its way back to the sea at Grande Rivière, Trinidad

The return of the ancient mariners The Caribbean is among the most important turtle nesting grounds globally — particularly Trinidad, which is the second largest nesting site for leatherback turtles in the world, and the largest in the western hemisphere. And May through August is the best time to see both the nesting mothers and the baby hatchlings who begin to emerge during these months. It’s a magical, unforgettable experience.

Sea turtles are one of the planet’s keystone species, and play important roles in keeping our oceans healthy. They provide food for other species, maintain coral reefs and seagrass beds as well as control jellyfish populations.

It’s one of the many reasons WIDECAST — the Wider Caribbean Sea Turtle Network comprising NGOs across the Caribbean (www.widecast.org) – has worked tirelessly to protect them, through a range of community-driven programmes, beach patrols, turtle-tagging, captive breeding, rehabilitation, public education, and turtle tours for locals and visitors alike.

Trinidad & Tobago T&T is home to five sea turtle species (leatherbacks, hawksbills, greens, olive ridleys, and loggerheads), and sees large numbers of turtles on five beaches in particular: Grand Rivière, Matura, Fishing Pond (in Trinidad) and Stonehaven and Courland (Tobago).

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Turtles also nest on a number of other beaches around both islands, including many popular ones like Maracas, Las Cuevas, Mayaro, Manzanilla, Lambeau, Man O’ War Bay, and Pigeon Point.

Leatherbacks are the main attraction at this time of year, especially in Trinidad.

From March to August, thousands of leatherbacks make their way back to

the beaches on which they were born, hauling themselves up on to the shore — usually under the cover of darkness — then painstakingly digging holes in the sand into which nesting mothers may deposit up to around 100 eggs each time they nest. Once finished, they will backfill the nests with a thick layer of sand and return to the ocean. They often nest more than once during the season.

Roughly two months later, little heads will emerge from the sand as hatchlings make a dash for the ocean.

They face long odds — about one in 1,000 will reach maturity. The females that do will eventually make their way back to these shores to begin the ritual anew.

To arrange for a turtle tour, contact Nature Seekers, SOS Tobago, or any of the NGOs who form part of the Turtle Village Trust: (868) 667-8471, turtlevillagetrust.org. Their invaluable work has made T&T’s conservation programmes among the most successful in the world.

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eco buzz

Guyana’s Shell Beach on the northern coast is a prime spot to see one of the ocean’s smallest sea turtles: the olive ridley. More common in waters around South America than up the island chain, olive ridleys can nest up to three times per season (March–August), laying more than 100 eggs each time. To experience this miracle of life, be prepared to make a bit of a journey across multiple modes of transportation to get there. The Guyana Marine Turtle Conservation Society organises tours: (592) 600-7272, www. guyanamarineconservation.org.

Barbados Barbados prides itself on being home to one of the Caribbean’s largest hawksbill populations. Nesting mothers — who tend to seek out more isolated areas to nest on the south and west coasts of the island — return to the same beach in Barbados every few years between April and November.

They can lay over 100 eggs at a time, and up to six times a season. For more, contact the Barbados Sea Turtle Project: (246) 230-0142 and barbadosseaturtles.org, or via social media.

Mathew W. Keefe/Shutterstock.com

Guyana

The Cayman Islands The Cayman Islands’ national symbol is the green turtle. However, populations had been almost completely decimated several years ago, primarily because of human activity. Luckily, efforts of NGOs have significantly improved the situation — nesting numbers have increased, and a combination of advocacy and protective measures has kept populations stable. Green turtles lay eggs more than once per season and each nest can hold more than 100.

For tours, contact the Cayman Islands Turtle Centre: (345) 949-3894, info@ turtle.ky.

Around the region…

Grenada: loggerheads, greens, hawksbills, and notably leatherbacks visit the island, particularly Levera Beach, from April to June. www.oceanspirits. org Dominica: spy loggerheads, greens, leatherbacks, and especially hawksbills, particularly at Rosalie Bay, Bout Sable, Cabana Bay, Wesley, and Calibishie from April to June. www.DomSeTCO.org

Katie Thorpe/Shutterstock.com

Jamaica: hawksbills are the main attraction here, especially on the north coast from June through August. www.jamentrust.org/ sea-turtles

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Florida (USA): loggerheads and four other species are protected by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission’s Marine Turtle programme, with great turtle-watching opportunities on the east coast (between Titusville and Fort Lauderdale), especially in June and July. myfwc.com/research/ wildlife/sea-turtles

Left A hawksbill turtle Above An olive ridley hatchling

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music buzz

This month’s listening picks from the Caribbean Reviews by Nigel A. Campbell

Nadia Batson

Elan Trotman Brighter Days Ahead (Island Muzik)

Coconut Girl (Fox Fuse) This Trinidadian singer-songwriter and now bona fide star has released her first full-length album after a career that has seen her move up through the ranks of female soca artists from the islands. An introductory spoken word piece by Cherelle Sambrano tells us that Batson is “an aphrodisiac of Caribbean passion, deep rooted in the richest soil. She produces the most essential oils. She is everything.” And with that, we are immersed in that sweetness. Batson’s songs inspire dancing, and allow listeners to repeat lyrics that speak plainly to desires, to joy, to ambition.

Fourteen songs cover a range of topics, all laced with that trademark piercing voice, and a music profile that covers various island genres — one hears zouk, soca, bouyon, island pop — giving credit to her growing fame as a pan-Caribbean favourite. Batson sings of relationships and carnal desires without the rudeness of the male gaze. That female perspective renders the misogyny of soca as playful taunts and cogent observations on Caribbean brio and life. She returns the gaze and mocks traditional roles: I don’t need your money, honey / I just want your waist / But if you insist on spending, honey / I go take it still, she sings in “Sugar Daddy”.

A standout track is the album closer, “Because of You” — an a cappella praise song, wonderfully harmonised, that celebrates an undeclared guiding force. We can assume it’s a higher power or maybe a lover and friend, but the song rings true. Nadia Batson is the songwriter of hits for many Carnivals, and with this album, she is headed for a career beyond Caribbean festivals.

Bajan saxman Elan Trotman is a prolific musician who used the break from live performances during the pandemic to continue his creation of an unrivalled oeuvre of contemporary jazz music for the discerning masses. Enhanced by a host of featured guest performers, this album offers a Caribbean smooth instrumental soundtrack to a hopeful future.

Arnaud Dolmen Adjusting (GAYA) Guadeloupean drummer Arnaud Dolmen says that this, his second album, is “about how we adapt and adjust ... The unexpected should be a source of strength.” Within it, Kwéyòl jazz, Vodou lyricism, and native gwo ka drum rhythms mix with and influence instrumentation that echoes a Creole past, and points to new ways of assimilating. Antillean music evolved.

Koffee

Rachel Kerr

Teddyson John

Gifted (RCA Records)

Masterpeace (Rachel Kerr Music)

Howdy (Self released) • Single

Koffee is the new face of Jamaican dancehall music, and with this debut full-length album, the Grammy winner is changing the way we dance to and sing along with dancehall. Modern production, global vision, positive vibe. She sings on “West Indies”: Coming from the West Indies / And you know say we giving them the best indeed. We expect no less. A gift.

On her first LP, this UK-born and based, multi-disciplinary artist celebrates her deep Jamaican roots by juxtaposing the cadence of Patois against music from her London metropolitan base — gospel, reggae, pop, soul and R&B — giving the 11 songs here a universal appeal.

Honest elucidation of her triumph over fears and insecurities give them dignity.

A UK newspaper once wrote, “In St Lucia, country isn’t so much a genre of music as a national obsession.”

St Lucian Teddyson John explores the possibilities, fusing a rhythmic bluegrass mandolin strum with a subtle Dennery Segment beat to create a fun soca tune that could have everyone line dancing a jig — or wining like it’s a carnival. Yee-haw!

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bucket list

Peak to peak Towering over the Caribbean’s often-photographed beaches and bays are gruelling hikes to challenge even the hardiest outdoor adventurers.

Kristine de Abreu takes you up the island peaks that summon the most intrepid among us 20

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Gros & Petit Piton, St Lucia 2,618ft & 2,438ft

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Blue Orange Studio/Shutterstock.com

A hiking pilgrimage through the Caribbean is nothing without a trek up the Pitons, which rise from the waters near Jalousie Beach on the southwest coast.

These steep, volcanic plugs were once worshipped by the island’s Taino population. The larger mountain was considered the god of fire and rain; the smaller was the god of fertility. The Petit Piton ascent can be difficult and dangerous, and Gros Piton gruelling. But from the top, you have a magnificent 360 degree view of St Lucia and neighbouring islands like Dominica, Martinique, Barbados, and St Vincent. Duration: up to 8 hours for Gros Piton, 4 hours for Petit Piton (round trip)

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El Tucuche, Trinidad 3,072ft

Test your grit and physical prowess with the infamous trek to Trinidad’s second highest peak, El Tucuche. The trek to the top is one of the steepest on the island, and does not welcome the unfit or illprepared. There are sheer drops, slippery sections, unpredictable winds, and thick cloud cover — with a particularly tricky section, affectionately called the Devil’s Staircase. Still, it offers many opportunities to see rare and elusive local wildlife and critically endangered endemic species like the golden tree frog, and to take in the stunning 360˚ views of the capital, Las Cuevas, and even the Caroni Swamp.

Duration: up to 10 hours (round trip)

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Ziad Joseph

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Uncommon Caribbean, courtesy Montserrat Division of Tourism

Soufrière Hills, Montserrat 3,002ft

‍ And here we have an active volcano! Due to the raw power and devastation from the 1995 eruption, the awesome Soufrière Hills have acquired a reputation for being the Mount Vesuvius (Pompeii) of the Caribbean. It’s why you’ll need a special permit and a certified tour guide to access Plymouth in the Exclusion Zone. Some sections are closed off to the public due to occasional volcanic activity. Make sure to savour the views of the black sand beaches and lush emerald jungles that stand in stark contrast to the shimmering blue waters of the Atlantic.

Duration: a tour of the Exclusion Zone takes 6 hours

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Pico Turquino, Cuba The rugged, jungle-clad mountains of the Sierra Maestra mountain range rise majestically from the southern coast in the Santiago de Cuba and Granma provinces. The iconic mountain range — Fidel Castro’s hideout during the revolution — is also home to one of the Caribbean’s highest peaks. The Pico Turquino towers above the plunging valleys and stands as a testament to the island’s reputation for being one of the Caribbean’s best hiking destinations. The name is a play on the word turquoise, a nod to the fact that the mountain seems to glow blue as you’re climbing to the top. As you reach the summit, a bust of liberator José Martí congratulates you for all your hard work. Duration: up to 2 days (round trip)

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Losa/Shutterstock.com

6,476ft

Pico Duarte, Dominican Republic 10,164ft

Courtesy Dominican Republic Ministry of Tourism

The godfather of all the Caribbean’s peaks towers above the Cordillera Central. Also called the Dominican Alps, you’ll find diverse terrain and varying routes to the summit — some around 15 miles, others around 40 miles — by hike, bike, or mule. A guide is essential.

Temperatures drop as low as -5˚C (23˚F), sometimes turning the mountainside into a gorgeous wintry wonderland where frost and ice blanket the pines and forest floor in white. Duration: Up to 6 days (round trip)

Eric Laudonien/Shutterstock.com

Blue Mountain Peak, Jamaica 7,402ft

Think of the Blue Mountains, and you naturally think unrivalled coffee and stunning views. Steep, intense and guaranteed to take your breath away, the 14-mile climb to the summit takes you through the lush forest of bamboo, ferns, juniper cedar, soapwood, and even eucalyptus trees.

And in the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park, you’ll find over 800 plant species and over 200 species of birds. Duration: roughly 7 hours (round trip)

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Morne Diablotins, Dominica 4,747ft

Courtesy St Kitts Tourism Authority

Aurore Shirley/Alamy Stock Photo

An intense fog shrouds the pinnacle of Morne Diablotins, near the northern shores of the Nature Island. Translated from French, Morne Diablotins means “little devils”. It is the second highest peak in the Lesser Antilles, last erupting 30,000 years ago. The island’s volcanic origins have spawned other wonders like the Boiling Lake (the second largest in the world), Valley of Desolation, and sulphur springs. Duration: up to 6 hours (round trip)

Mount Liamuiga, St Kitts 3,792ft

St Kitts’ highest peak was previously called Mount Misery, dating back to the days that enslaved Africans worked the land around it. Prepare yourself for an expedition — this stratovolcano, which last erupted more than 1,600 years ago, will test your mettle and your agility. You’ll have to navigate colossal boulders, massive tree roots, and dense jungle terrain on your way up to the Devil’s Tooth — a conical crater at the highest point of Liamuiga.

Duration: Up to 6 hours (round trip)

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Learn more about all these peaks in the web edition of this article at caribbean-beat.com!

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take 5

Yendi with Shenseea

YouTubers of the Caribbean Courtesy Yendi Phillipps

Yendi with Usain Bolt

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Caribbean content creators have been churning out a range of video material on YouTube and other platforms, attracting hundreds of thousands of viewers from around the world. Laura Dowrich recommends five of her favourites to launch you down your next YouTube rabbit hole

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eatahfood (Baidawi Assing)

acking many of the restrictions of television or streamers, YouTube has become a hub for creators and viewers alike. The platform also offers enterprising video producers — at least those with large followings — the ability to earn money from their uploads in various ways. Caribbean creators have seized the opportunity, with comedians, musicians and artists, lifestyle and travel vloggers, cooks, music reviewers, and popular personalities all producing their own unique material across the platform. Here are five (of many) to check out!

Originally a website dedicated to a celebration of Trinidadian cuisine, eatahfood started off as a collaboration between Baidawi (pronounced “Buhdahwee”) and his friend QD Ross. Today, Baidawi runs the whole kit and caboodle and has made it to into a must-see YouTube channel. It has over 90,000 subscribers, and features various cooking shows such as MmHmm, which focuses on Assing’s favourite dishes; Simply Local, which puts a twist on Trinis’ favourite dishes; Decanted, which looks at beverages; In the Oven, which gives us recipes for baked treats; and EAF Presents, which sees guest chefs cooking up a storm. The channel also covers the Trinidad & Tobago food scene, with Assing attending events, restaurant openings and menu reveals, and giving us an insight into the agricultural industry.

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With over 100,000 subscribers, the former Miss World Jamaica has found her niche as a talk show host. Her show Odyssey with Yendi attracts the who’s who in Jamaica, from Olympians Usain Bolt and Elaine Thompson to dancehall stars Shenseea and Gramps Morgan. Set in a picturesque tropical garden, the show ranges from light and fun with games to serious, tear-jerking conversations. The model, actress, television host and businesswoman is warm, empathetic and endearing as a host, with the ability to bring out the best from her guests.

As a result, her shows provide fodder for news outlets and fans alike — such as Shenseea’s first interview after the death of her mother and, more recently, Lila Iké’s revelations about her mental health struggles. Driven by her faith in God, Yendi’s platform is designed to provide hope and inspiration to all who tune in.

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Courtesy Ethan Quant/Lifestyles Media Group

Courtesy Jesse Evans

OhGVibe (Jeanmeil Nestor) St Lucian Jeanmeil Nestor has made quite a name for himself as one of the leading beauty influencers in the Caribbean. A chemistry educator by profession, he combines his scientific knowledge with his passion for skincare to create colourful, engaging videos — ranging from reviews of beauty products and product unboxing to travel vlogs from various Carnivals, and conversations about serious topics such as mental health for his more than 6,000 subscribers. OhGVibe has been featured on the social media for Rihanna’s Fenty Skin, and in 2021 was selected for Allure Magazine’s My Beauty Ritual series. The Instagram series featured editors, influencers, and experts from around the world sharing their beauty routines and preferred products.

Bowflex Barbie Fit TV (Dekel Quant) Known as Bowflex Barbie, Bahamian Dekel Quant began her fitness journey in 2008 shortly after losing her mother to breast cancer. She hit the gym with her family and never looked back.

Her more than 11,000 subscribers in any fitness range can use this free resource to meet their fitness goals.

Bonus picks Tami and Wayne Mitchell: With over 190,000 subscribers, this Jamaican couple lets viewers inside their lives in their reality series Meet the Mitchells.

Certified Samson: Trinidadian Jamel Sampson is a comedian who creates funny skits about parenting and life in the Caribbean on his channel, which has over 322,000 subscribers.

Alien in Da Room: Bajan YouTuber Jaleesa is a lifestyle vlogger who gives how-to tips on entrepreneurship, cooking, fashion, education, and intellectual property.

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A former attorney, Campbell is one of the more prominent content creators on social media. He left his burgeoning career in law to follow a call in his soul to do something different. His channel, with over 80,000 subscribers, is chock full of entertainment, including interviews with prominent Jamaicans, games, commentary, and a look into his life and daily activities. Campbell is authentic, funny, engaging, vulnerable, and completely relatable in his videos. n

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offtrack

Sacred passage Annette Arjoon-Martins takes us into Guyana’s Barima Mora Passage — home to unspoilt mangrove, an array of endangered species, thriving Indigenous culture, and part of the critically important Amazon ecoregion. She shares what makes this place so special, and why she and her team are working so hard to protect it

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rowing up in Pomeroon, Guyana, I always heard how blessed we were, having gold, diamonds, bauxite, timber, and now oil and gas. As we feel the irrefutable effects of the climate crisis — from extreme rainfall and flooding to forest fires after harsh dry spells — responsibly managing these natural resources requires a delicate balancing act.

But we are up to the task, because we are also blessed with the second highest percentage of forest cover on earth — some 18 million hectares that can store 19.5 gigatonnes of carbon. It positions us as a carbon negative country, and is our biggest weapon in this fight against climate change.

As early as 2009, Guyana developed a ground-breaking low carbon strategy that has become a global model for valuing forests. A Norwegian-backed programme helped us keep our deforestation below half a percent, and we now have a much better understanding of the immense value of all our ecosystems.

Guyana’s 2030 goals now include preserving our biodiversity and watersheds, while building our blue economy.

One of the keys to achieving these goals is developing strategic partnerships between our public, private, and nongovernmental organisations, while actively involving our Indig-

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enous communities — particularly those that live in and around invaluable ecosystems like the Barima Mora Passage. Located in the northwest of Guyana, close to the Venezuelan border, this incredible place is where I have spent much of the last two years through my work with the Guyana Marine Conservation Society (GMCS), which I founded in 2000.

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he Barima Mora Passage falls within the critically important Amazon ecoregion. Getting there is easy, with daily flights from the Eugene F Correia International Airport in Georgetown. After just under an hour in the air, you are in the tree-lined avenues of Mabaruma, the administrative centre of the Barima-Waini region. From there, a 45-minute boat ride up the Arouca then Barima rivers places you at the heart of the Barima Mora Passage.

Courtesy Reel Guyana

Aerial of the Barima Mora Passage Mangrove Ecosystem

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Imbotero At any time of day, you can be greeted by thousands of scarlet ibis perched on the mangrove-fringed riverbanks. Early morning or late afternoon boat rides offer an experience like no other when huge flocks of noisy Amazonian parrots converge.

Members of the Warrau community — one of Guyana’s nine Indigenous peoples — lead tours that can guide you through this natural wonderland, home to several threatened species like the giant anteater, giant river otter, jaguars, pumas, white-lipped peccary, and manatees.

Spanning 47,000 acres, the region’s intact mangrove forests store five times more carbon than any other forest, and its peatlands and wetlands store even more carbon than mangroves.

It is also home to the Warrau, whose sustainable use of the natural resources has preserved this invaluable ecosystem for thousands of years.

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A small strip of sand at Shell Beach protects the lagoon from the Atlantic Ocean

This region is also a gateway to Venezuela, and consequently has seen significant increases in migration. This has put pressure on the environment from the clearing of mangroves for housing and farming, as well as from hunting and wildlife trapping. It has required proactive solutions to safeguard this precious ecosystem, as well as the livelihoods of the area’s Indigenous peoples.

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lso in the Barima-Waini region, and adjacent to the Passage ecosystem, is the Shell Beach Protected Area — an important nesting ground for four turtle species, and teeming with rich natural and Indigenous heritage. In 2011, the GMCS played a key role in getting Shell Beach formally designated as a protected area — the only one of its kind in the country. This

Courtesy Reel Guyana

A scarlet ibis

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To visit Indigenous communities like those at Imbotero today is like stepping through a time machine, and experiencing life as it was hundreds of years ago put us in a great position to begin developing a partnership with both the regional administration and the Indigenous communities to preserve the Barima Mora Passage as well.

We’ve been making significant progress since we began in 2020. One of the most significant achievements was establishing the region’s first fully solar-powered research centre in Imbotero — born out of a crisis that we were able to turn into an opportunity. Last year, unprecedented erosion at some of the beaches along the 100 kilometres of Shell Beach saw as much as 30 metres lost in one month to the raging Atlantic Ocean — placing the health and education buildings on Shell Beach under threat.

It turned out to be more economical for the regional administration to construct brand new buildings on higher ground much farther away. So we proposed that the compromised buildings be relocated to the Warrau community of Imbotero further north, where we were able to recycle and repurpose them into this landmark research centre.

Courtesy Reel Guyana

To visit Indigenous communities like those at Imbotero today is like stepping through a time machine, and experiencing life as it was hundreds of years ago.

There are about 500 living in this Warrau community, including migrants who settle on the banks of the Barima River, and the original families who live on the banks of the adjoining Imbotero Creek. Its residents subsist on fishing, farming, catching crabs, and creating gorgeous handicraft.

Research tourism offers a tremendous opportunity here, providing much needed income to the villagers, who will provide essential services to national, regional and international researchers, as well as to visitors who have an interest in wildlife and Indigenous culture.

Through funding from the Global Environmental Facility Small Grants Project, we’ve been developing tools for the conservation and co-management of the Passage. One of them is a partnership with the renowned Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development.

Several groups of Warrau have already participated in

Courtesy Reel Guyana

Right A fishing hut for a Warrau fisherman and his family Below Preparing for a fish roast

exchange visits to Iwokrama, where they were trained in research tourism and natural resources management. After they returned home, we established the Barima Mora Passage Natural Resource Management Committee, comprising the leaders of the Indigenous communities as well as relevant agencies. The trainees are also actively passing on their knowledge to the members of the Wildlife Club at Imbotero, which uses the research centre as its base.

But one of the most exciting parts of this project for me — as a pilot myself and an Indigenous woman — is an innovative drone monitoring programme that specifically benefits young women. Compared to the boys, whose options include working in mining, forestry and fishing, the girls traditionally have much fewer opportunities.

This new programme equips several girls with training in the use of drones at Iwokrama. Their instructors are Iwokrama Rangers, whose use of drones to monitor the one million hectares of their protected area has already helped curb illegal mining and timber extraction.

When the girls have received sufficient training and experience, they will be charged with their own drones, and together will form the first Indigenous girls drone unit in Guyana. They will also be able to earn income wherever they may be needed in the region by the agricultural, forestry, or mining sectors.

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dditional financing from the IDB Lab for a four-year project in the region helps ensure we protect this very special area — not only for the benefit of the Warrau, but to safeguard the incredibly valuable contribution these ecosystems make to public health and climate change mitigation. Initiatives like this will help position Guyana as a country that continues to lead the way in both conservation and sustainable development. n

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Courtesy of the artist, Scotland + Venice, and Forma

portfolio

This year, Caribbean artists will have their biggest ever presence at two of the world’s most significant contemporary art events — the Venice Biennale and documenta fifteen.

Janine Mendes-Franco learns more

Above Whittle’s Lagareh - The Last Born (film still - single channel video), 2022 © Alberta Whittle Right Alberta Whittle

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Matthew A Williams, courtesy Studio Tuku

Bridging the divide

Courtesy Marc A Hermann/MTA New York City Transit

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Above Firelei Baez with her glass mosaic at 163 St/Amsterdam Avenue Below Frantz Zéphirin, The Slave Ship Brooks, 2007

Marcus Rediker. Collection Marcus Rediker

s a result of pandemic-related delays, two major international art events that only overlap every decade or so will both be running over the coming months: the Venice Biennale (23 April–27 November) and documenta fifteen (18 June–25 September). This year’s editions are both more diverse and inclusive, with a stronger Caribbean presence than ever before.

Trinidadian contemporary artist Christopher Cozier is not entirely surprised. He calls it the “post-Okwui moment”. Nigerian art critic Okwui Enwezor — one of only two people (the other being Swiss art historian Harald Szeemann) to ever curate the main exhibits for both Venice (2015) and documenta (2002) — began to shift the paradigm, Cozier says, away from the platforms being “conveyor belts for art stars”. Instead, he used them to facilitate conversations about the role of art in social transformation, widening the net beyond Euro-American norms.

This year’s curator of the Venice exhibition, held at the Arsenale di Venezia — an old, strangely beautiful edifice at the eastern end of the city that was once a wartime shipyard — is Italy-born, New York-based Cecilia Alemani. She told ARTnews back in 2020 that she had no interest in doing “the coronavirus biennial”. Instead, she acknowledged that times of crisis are often accompanied by an artistic shift, saying, “If that happens, I want to try to capture it.” She has since dubbed the exhibit “transhistoric” — creating a dialogue between the present and the past, and between “stories of exclusion”.

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Shaniqwa Jarvis courtesy the artist and Matthew Marks Gallery

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Shaniqwa Jarvis courtesy the artist and Matthew Marks Gallery

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his epidermal layer of the biennial, which features 213 artists — the majority of them showing in Venice for the first time — spotlights work by several regional creators who have routinely straddled this transhistoric divide: the late Cuban printmaker Belkis Ayón, sculptor Firelei Báez from the Dominican Republic, and a handful of Haitian artists, including Drapo Vodou, textile maker Myrlande Constant, self-appointed (and self-taught) “historic animalist” Frantz Zéphirin, and the late master painter Célestin Faustin, whose fantastical canvases famously chronicle the struggle between his attraction and antipathy towards the Vodou religious practices of his homeland.

The national pavilions, fixed structures located even further east in the Giardini della Biennale, are occupied by larger countries, all permanent fixtures on the Venice circuit. This year, Sonia Boyce, who has Barbadian roots, is representing Britain; her compatriot Alberta Whittle, Scotland; and sculptor Simone Leigh — whose parents are Jamaican — the United States.

Their collective occupation of such significant spaces is dazzling and, as the first Black women ever chosen to represent their respective countries at the Venice Biennale, long overdue. Boyce’s art makes a point of inviting the spectator into the experience; Whittle uses empathy and the power of the collective as tools to counteract anti-Blackness; and Leigh is interested in how Black female subjectivity plays out in historical contexts.

Now that we’re living though a new and unpredictable phase of history, it will be interesting to see how the new work they plan to unveil in Venice will respond. As Whittle said when she received the Scotland commission, “With so many urgent conversations on health, grief, refusal, race and healing at the forefront of my mind, now is the moment to ask questions about how we can unlearn and be more actively reflective on a personal level as well as collectively.”

Simone Leigh, 2021. Artworks copyright Simone Leigh

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Imagine the quality of art that can be realised by pooling resources, participating creatively with your peers and generously sharing attention

Prudence Cuming Associates courtesy The British Council

he collective, meanwhile, defines this year’s documenta. Ever since the contemporary art exhibition’s fifth instalment in Kassel, Germany in 1972, a different artistic director has been appointed. This year, it is ruangrupa, a Jakarta-based collaborative that has oriented the show around the concept of lumbung — what Indonesians call a cooperative rice barn — where surplus harvest is stored and shared with the community. Not only is it the first time a collective has been asked to curate, but with ruangrupa’s bent towards the unconventional, artists from traditionally underrepresented regions like the Caribbean can finally make strokes on the global art canvas.

Imagine the quality of art that can be realised by pooling resources, participating creatively with your peers and generously sharing attention. Three Caribbean art collectives — Haiti’s Atis Rezistans, The Instituto de Artivismo Hannah Arendt from Cuba, and Alice Yard from Trinidad and Tobago — will get the opportunity to do just that at documenta fifteen. While former iterations focused on residencies, workshops, seminars and film screenings, this year will likely see a marriage of art and activism as participants explore issues ranging from alternative currencies to climate justice.

For its part, Alice Yard doesn’t plan to conceive some “grand, unprecedented” project just because it’s documenta. Nicholas Laughlin, one of the group’s co-founders, said they will instead focus on activity and process — the things they do when no one is looking. In the spirit of sharing which lumbung encapsulates, the collective has invited nine artists from its Caribbean network to spend time over the course of the 100-day exhibit informally and spontaneously doing art, research, and performance.

Much like the pandemic, therefore, what will emerge from documenta fifteen remains to be seen and depends on being open to what the location offers, to the exhibit’s core values, and to new relationships. n

Sarah Weal courtesy The British Council

Left Shirley Bassey/Goldfinger, 2021 © Sonia Boyce. All rights reserved, DACS/Artimage 2022 Above Sonia Boyce

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Spot the Difference There are four additional underwater statues in the background; statue at the far left has red-framed sunglasses; on the far left and centre statues, the “O” and “X” pendants are reversed; centre statue has its right eye open; statue on the far right is smiling; pants colour of the statue on the far right is different; right arm of the centre statue has been brought forward; diver Kaiso’s left forearm is down; yellow stripe on Kaiso’s trunks is in a different place; fish has sunglasses on; fish is yellow instead of green; fish’s mouth is open; crab is facing forward instead of backward.

If the puzzle has already been filled in, just ask your flight attendant for a new copy of the magazine!

There are 13 differences between these two pictures. How many can you spot?

by Gregory St Bernard Spot the Difference

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