Metropolis 1075 by Metropolis

Oct 31-Nov 13, 2014 Japan’s Nº1 English Magazine CHECK OUR NEW WEBSITE! www.metropolisjapan.com

BEAUTIFUL NIGHTMARES

TIM BURTON’S DARK ART

LOUD AND PROUD COMING OUT OF THE PAPER CLOSET

SUBCULTURE CENTRAL SEE OUR NAKANO SPECIAL

Queen of

Hearts

CHE’NELLE CHANNELS THE LOVE

無料 PRICELESS

FINDING FALL

TOKYO’S TOP KOYO SPOTS

TITANS’ ATTACK ON UENO CHECK THE WATCH LIST

GET INTO IKEBANA IN TOKYO CLASSIFIEDS

DO YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES FOR TV?

Looking for English & Chinese speakers Also Japanese, Spanish & French speakers

日本初上陸！

NOW IN JAPAN!

TOKYO CORRESPONDENT Fashion One broadcasts original programming to over 300 million people in 44 countries. We’re now looking for a Tokyo correspondent to join our worldwide operations. No fashion experience needed—just the right personality! Send your CV, cover letter, photo and/or video application, plus a link to any on-camera work to: http://www.fashionone.jp/casting

日本人テレビリポーターを募集しています！

日本初上陆！

我们正在面向全球招募中文流利的电视台记者！

ファッションワンは世界44ヶ国、3億人以上に発信している番組です。

你好，美女！想成为一名记者吗？

履歴書と、プロファイル写真一枚を送って下さい。

只要你拥有一副可爱的容貌，那就快快

もしあなたが映っている動画やリンク先があれば、是非一緒に送って下さい。

你只需要给我们发送你的简历和照片。

http://www.fashionone.jp/casting

我们会是你的第一选择！加入我们这支年轻的队伍吧！ FACEBOOK等个人网页也欢迎!

BE SEEN. BE THE SCENE. metropolis.co.jp/fashionone

inside

OCT 31-NOV 13, 2014 • #1075

EDITOR’S LETTER

This issue of Metropolis is about finding yourself. As we take off our futuristic and frightening Halloween masks, it’s time to rediscover the people underneath. On our way out for some private time in colorful fall kōyō, we sat with songstress Che’nelle to learn how her music has been influenced by her multicultural life.

Photo by Ryan Bruss

Pop Princess: Che’nelle expounds on the love of love.

Of course, there are those who prefer expression through style, and the underground side of Fashion Week may be just for you. Or perhaps you’d prefer Tim Burton’s world of the weird? And then there’s our detailed exploration of Nakano ward, where you can be proud to be yourself no matter who that happens to be. Photo by Martin Leroux

Nakano Nuance: A city official shows his pride.

Glue and Scissorhands: Tim Burton’s eerie art.

Cover design: Kohji Shiiki. Photography: Ryan Bruss. Wardrobe: Samuel Thomas. Photographed at Oakwood Premier Tokyo Midtown.

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The rear entrance to Sankeien Gardens in Yokohama, by Charles Levie

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CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Neil Butler EDITORIAL Mike Kanert (Managing Editor) Martin Leroux (Editor) Wendy Nguyen (Editorial Assistant & Social Media Manager) Anna Cock Gibson (Proofreader) Momoko Mochizuki, Nina Janezic (Interns) CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Dan Grunebaum (Entertainment) Don Morton (Movies) C.B. Liddell (Arts) Samuel Thomas (Fashion) DESIGN Kohji Shiiki (Art Director) Davi Azevedo (Graphic Designer) WEB Minh Douangprachanh (Digital Manager) James McGuire (Web Developer) PRODUCTION Helen Langford (Production Assistant) ADVERTISING Akane Ochi, Karl Nakashima, Niki Kaihara (Sales Managers) Yo Takahashi (Sales Executive) Ai Hosokawa (Sales Assistant) ADMINISTRATION/ACCOUNTING Keiko Adachi (Administration) Michiko Anezaki (Adminstration/Classifieds) IT Guilhem Malfre (It/Web Developer)

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upfront SCENE AROUND TOWN

Photo by Randy Steinlauf

Photo by Akiko Nakagawa

LINGOIST IT’S ALL IN THE TIMING Oct 18: The 59th CWAJ Print Show at the Tokyo American Club, Azabu Juban Photo by Samuel Thomas

Fall is the season for kōyō (changing leaves) and indulging in good food— but fall one step behind, and you’ll miss it all. Timing is everything, and by using the suffix “-goro,” you’ll know exactly when to enjoy the beautiful sights and delicious bites! JP EN

Kōyō no migoro wa itsu desu ka? When will the fall leaves be at their best?

Ringo no tabegoro wa itsu desu ka? EN When will the apple be at its best to eat? JP

Migoro wa jūichi gatsu no chūjun kara jūichi gatsu no gejun desu. EN They’ll be at their best from mid to late November. JP

Oct 19: Critic Don Konishi at Shibuya Fashion Week, Shibuya

Photo by Davi Azevedo

け

Ringo no soko ga ki-iro ni nattara tabegoro desu. It’ll be at its best when the bottom of the apple turns yellow.

9 A

Photo by Nina Janezic

ANSWERS AT meturl.com/ kanacross

Solution: A

Metropolis Members Club THIS WEEK’S WINNER! Khirmer Dia won a set of 7 nail enamels courtesy of Revlon

UPCOMING PRIZE One lucky MMC member will win a ¥10,000 gift voucher courtesy of adidas

Oct 24: Tim Burton-themed display at Roppongi Hills West Walk, Roppongi

Across 2. Japanese chess, 4. Inheritance, 5. Third story 7. Diversity, 9. To ride or mount

Oct 19: Illuminated mikoshi at Kawagoe Matsuri, Kawagoe

Down 1. Horse races, 2. Examination, 3. Councillor, 6. Firefly, 8. Ocean

TO-DO LIST

TOP

fall fruit picking UNTIL EARLY DEC

UNTIL MID NOV

UNTIL EARLY NOV

Shibaguchi Orchard

Narita Yume Bokujo

Small Fruits Land Berry Cottage

Pick persimmons (until early Nov) and tangerines (until early Dec). Open 10am-4pm daily, ¥600-800/kg (persimmons), ¥700-800 (tangerines all-you-can-eat w/1kg to take home, from ¥350/kg to buy). Totsuka-ku, Yokohama. Totsuka. 20 min from station by bus. Tel: 045-852-1445. www.s-kajuen.com

Pick sweet potatoes (until mid Nov) and peanuts (until early Nov). Open 9am-5pm daily, ¥7001,400. Narita-shi, Chiba. Namegawa. 10 min from station by car. Free bus service available. Tel: 047-696-1001. www.yumebokujo.com

Pick kiwi fruit until early Nov. Open 10am-5pm daily, closed Mon, from ¥600/kg. Ome-shi, Tokyo. Ozaku. Tel: 042-831-3810. http://homepage1. nifty.com/cottage/

Courtesy of Festival/Tokyo

Courtesy of Beatink

NOV 3-6

THE VALLEY OF ASTONISHMENT Peter Brook’s kaleidoscopic journey into the mysteries of the brain is staged as part of Festival/Tokyo. Nov 3-6, various times, ¥5,500 (adv)/ ¥6,000 (door). Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre Playhouse. Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-5391-2111. www.festival-tokyo.jp/14 Courtesy of Cuneiform

EDITOR’S PICK DEC 5 FLYING LOTUS West Coast beatmaker Flying Lotus (Steven Ellison) flies into Tokyo for a one-nighter to celebrate his latest album, You’re Dead. The outing marks a departure from FlyLo’s earth-shaking rhythms for a headier sound. The impression left is that Ellison dug deeply into jazz’s ’70s fusion period for his samples. But this should not surprise: Ellison is, after all, the nephew of modern jazz great John Coltrane. The album also boasts contributions from Snoop Dogg and Kendrick Lamar, and is packaged in artwork created by Japanese manga artist Shintaro Kago at the request of FlyLo himself. Dan Grunebaum Dec 5, 7:30pm, ¥5,940 (adv). Shinagawa Stellar Ball. Shinagawa. www.beatink.com

NOV 15-16

ROCK IN OPPOSITION

The first-ever festival in Japan devoted to Europe’s Rock in Opposition progressive rock movement. Nov 15-16, 3pm, ¥14,000. Tsutaya O-East. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5458-4681. http://meturl.com/rio2014

UNTIL NOV 30

NIGHT AQUARIUM Explore the fantastical world of the ocean with 3-D projection mapping. Observe the fishes’s night lives and enjoy a cocktail at the Ocean Café. Until Nov 30, 5-8pm, ¥600-2,100. Enoshima Aquarium. Katase-Enoshima. Tel: 0466-29-9960. www.enosui.com

NOV 9

THE 4TH INTERNATIONAL FRIENDLY RUN

UNTIL JAN 5

TANADA NO AKARI 10,000 LED lights illuminate the Kamogawa tanada (rice terraces), one of Japan’s top 100 terraces chosen by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Until Jan 5, from sunset, free. Oyama Senmaida. AwaKamogawa. Tel: 04-7092-0086. www.tanadanoyomatsuri.com

A running event to promote international goodwill, bringing together Japanese citizens and foreign nationals living in Japan. Nov 9, 8am-1pm. Odaiba Seaside Park. Odaiba Kaihin Koen. http://amia.jp/ friendlyrun4

CHECK FOR MORE EVENTS ON P.28! 05

cover

ess d c n i p pr love any o p Thends on identit al ou exp rnatioTnIN LEROUX inte BY MAR

mid the bitter breakup anthems and indulgent odes to partying that seem to saturate the modern airwaves, the radio still has some heart—and international songstress Che’nelle is doing her part to keep romance alive in the mainstream. The subject has always been prominent in the Australian chanteuse’s repertoire: Her 2007 debut single described her falling in love with a DJ, while her latest, “Happiness,” is a bilingual promise of friendship for the subject of her affection. “A lot of these love songs are very fairy talelike,” Che’nelle tells Metropolis. “They focus on falling in love, missing each other—thus influencing people to think and believe that this is what love is always like.” You might say Che’nelle has made it a mission to spread love globally. The singersongwriter’s work has explored various genres outside her typical pop and R&B turf, including

dancehall and reggae, and she takes advantage of her Japanese-English bilingualism to spread her message ever more broadly. She’s also lent her talent to other artists, co-penning heartfelt tunes for the likes of Leona Lewis and fellow Aussie Ricki-Lee. It’s quite fitting, then, that Japanese fans have crowned her “the princess of love.” “I think honesty is probably difficult to communicate in Japanese culture, because everyone cares so much about how the other person feels,” Che’nelle says to explain Japan’s predilection for tunes on the sweet side. “So these love songs can either give them hope in the world of love, or give them courage to be honest.”

orn in Malaysia, Che’nelle got her musical start singing in her father’s karaoke bar. She then moved to Perth, Australia at the age of ten, and she attributes part of her

Photo by Ryan Bruss

S E D A SHOF E L L E N ’ E H C

success to her international upbringing. “The ideas that I have would be more limited if I wasn’t exposed to all these different cultures and ways of the world,” she says. “I believe that I adapt so easily into different cultures because I respect and love so much.” Che’nelle performed with a pop cover band for five years before seriously pursuing music upon graduating high school, when she started writing and producing songs that she uploaded to MySpace. It was there she was discovered and immediately signed to Virgin Records. “Social media is, to me, a blessing and a curse,” she laughs. “The advantage is that people get to put music up and show it to the world without having to be signed to a label … It’s a do-it-yourself world these days, and people are blessed to be able to do that.” Seven albums and a slew of singles later, it seems Che’nelle is well on her way to global domination: she’s just finished a video for “Do You Wanna,” a collaboration with Miami reggae artist Shifta; “Happiness” was selected as the theme song to the new Fuji TV drama Dear Sister; she’s working on a music video for her single, “Fierce,” which she describes as an “electro-pop, high-energy dancefloor monster;” and she’s releasing a new J-pop album in 2015. 2014 has also been full of firsts for Che’nelle, who’s now working on a fashion project— though she’s keeping things under wraps for the moment, describing it only as “a really cool apparel project I’ve been developing slowly for some time now.” Dropping a hint, she adds, “This item normally comes in pairs, but with mine, one of them will be all you need to shine bright like a star.” This year also sees Che’nelle stepping into entrepreneurship with the opening of The Crabby Shack, a restaurant in Brooklyn in which she’s invested. “It’s all about crabs: crab rolls, crab mac and cheese, crab this and crab that—and it’s all bomb!” she raves. “Anyone traveling to NYC, please go check it out. Tell ‘em Che’nelle and Metropolis sent you—you’ll get a special deal!” Now that she’s got the world in her hands, what’s next for Che’nelle? “I have no idea,” she laughs. “Maybe I’ll write a book.” “Whatever I do,” she adds, “I hope it inspires someone to reach for their dreams.” Check out Che’nelle’s new single, “Happiness,” available Nov 19. Keep up with Che’nelle at www.facebook. com/chenelleworld, www.twitter.com/ chenelleworld, and www.instagram.com/ chenelleworld. Check out The Crabby Shack in New York at www.facebook.com/crabbyshackbk.

fashion fix

ALTERNATIVE TOKYO FASHION WEEK BY SAMUEL THOMAS, FASHION EDITOR

Photos by Samuel Thomas

f the mention of Tokyo Fashion Week only conjures up images of po-faced models walking polished catwalks over in Shibuya Hikarie, where the “official” Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo events are held, then you’re missing out on much of what the week has to offer. Some of the week’s biggest talking points were actually off-schedule, thrown open to the general public ordinarily excluded from the official festivities. Taking the lead on populist fashion was the Tokyo New Age runway show presented as part of Shibuya Fashion Week, in which Shibuya’s iconic Bunkamura Street was pedestrianized and transformed into a red carpet runway for four of the city’s most avant-garde designers. The location not only made it possible for everyone who wanted to attend to see the show, but also opened the progressive fashion to shoppers, tourists and plenty of bemused passers-by who happened to be in the area. This democratic approach to fashion was echoed by The Happening, organized by Xanadu Tokyo owner Tatsuro Motohashi, who staged a runway throughout the LaForet Harajuku department store that spilled out onto the street. The fashion show—from underground Tokyo brands Garter, Roggykei, Obsess, Araki Shiro and Nyte—was entirely crowd-funded, beautifully subverting in the process the corporate sponsorship system required to get a show on the official schedule. Elsewhere, Tokyo-based Taiwanese brand Jenny Fax from designer Shueh Jen-Fang invited her fans to a concrete bunker in the ruins of the old Tokyo Denki University’s Chiyoda campus. Jenny Fax presented a gaggle of corpses bound for the afterlife, either at rest in dresses that resembled beds or embellished with gifts required for entry into heaven. “My theme was negativity,” the designer mused, adding, “I am just a very negative person.” Still, it certainly seemed as if the collection struck a very positive nerve with her fanatical following keen to wear her sardonic wit on the streets of Tokyo. However, perhaps the most subversive show of all was from contemporary kimono designer Jotaro Saito, who presented his show in tandem with his father Sansai Saito. Ever the rebellious son, Jotaro bounced increasingly modernist ideas off his father’s more conservative designs before their ideas eventually blurred into an accord of kimono artistry fit for modern Tokyo—respectful to tradition, yet still a relevant, living fashion garment.

food&drink Photo by Davi Azevedo

Ranging from ¥1,400-1,730 for pork or pasta, Flags Cafe & Dining doesn’t offer the cheapest lunch sets around. But when the price includes a salad bar with unlimited wine, who can complain? The atmosphere is unexpectedly bright and airy for an underground affair, with light wood-grain tables and Roman Holiday permanently paying on the kudzu-crept walls. The main clientele are young women and dating couples; evenings offer more typical à la carte fare. B1F Nakashima Bldg, 3-28-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Shinjuku. http://meturl.com/flagscafe

¥¥¥

With branches from Hokkaido to Okinawa, ChaoChao Gyoza offers Chinese dumplings that are more than a cut above the rest. The chain’s remarkably fresh namesake gyoza (¥297) arrive not in individual lumps, but strung together like a rack of ribs. The “luxurious crab and shrimp longbar gyoza” (kani to ebi zeitaku rongu bo gyoza, ¥399) is just as described, while the thick-cut bacon (atsugiri bacon, ¥491) is purely addictive. While there’s no English menu, there are lots of pictures. Find the nearest branch here: www.gyozaya.com/chao/shop/

while the Blue Books Hamburger comes on a rye bun with flame-grilled onion, mustard leaf, sprouts, eggplant marinade and homemade ketchup with a cute side of curly fries (¥1,200). The standout dish is the chou farci (cabbage roll) stewed in a cocotte, or French oven pot, the sealed cooking process locking the flavor inside. Immersed in a white-wine soup seasoned with onion and chicken bouillon, the tender cabbage cradles a softball-sized ball of ground beef flavored with port wine, cumin and burdock root (gobō), with the delightfully tasty tomato hidden in the center. The most expensive thing on the menu at ¥2,000, it’s worth the price just to savor the rarity of a cabbage roll with character. The drinks menu offers whisky, cider, wines and cocktails, with a few deadly options involving tequila thrown in (cocktails ¥800-1,000). Of particular note is the house specialty Blue Note Tokyo Beer, a light, fruity and airy IPA available at ¥700 for 330ml or ¥900 for 450ml. If alcohol isn’t your thing, there are also coffees, teas and five flavors of milkshakes, which, at ¥700 each,

go down like sticking a straw into a frothy glass of milk and half-melted homemade ice cream. The prime finisher is the walnut tart (¥600), an imposing wedge of walnuts mortared together with a thin coating of caramel, mounted on the tiniest of cake crusts. Forget the fork: It’s easier to pick up this sticky brick and devour it by hand. B1F Eureka Bldg, 2-9-15 Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku. Jiyugaoka. www.bluebookscafe.jp

Courtesy of Blue Books Cafe

RESTAURANT

Everything about Eggcellent is egg-themed— from the artistic egg-shaped wooden entranceway to the bookshelves and salt shakers. Organic eggs start at ¥1,300, while eggs Benedict variants run from ¥1,300-1,900, after which you can peck at an organic egg crème brûlée for ¥700. The lunch plate includes the daily eggs Benedict, pancakes, salad and a drink for ¥1,500. Portions could be upgraded a cluck. 1F Roppongi Hills Metro Hat/Hollywood Plaza, 6-4-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Roppongi.

EN/JP

Underground Blues BY MIKE KANERT

While Omotesando gets the upscale rep and Shimokitazawa is all about the hip, Jiyugaoka has quietly been setting a lockdown on cute and quaint. With its open streets already lined with patisseries and adorable cafés, the Blue Books Cafe now aims to inject a bit of adult food fare into the area’s pantheon of prim. Located at the bottom of an inviting flight of stairs off a brick-inlaid pedestrian street, the café’s red-brick walls create a classic train-station jazz-bar ambiance, with an appropriate undercurrent of lively music encouraging animated conversation. Seating is available at a broad bar or among chairs and sofa seats surrounded by bookshelves—though the subterranean lighting may be too dim for any serious reading. While billed as a café, this is truly an international restaurant. Appetizers of note include a salty Spanish omelet (¥700) filled with either sausage or five types of mushrooms (shiitake, shimeji and girolle among them), as well as a “Bien Duo” of prosciutto and coppa (¥1,000). A traditional cut of Italian pork taken from the hindquarters, the coppa is oily and soft, slipping delectably down almost without being chewed. Avoid the marinated salmon and fresh cheese tartine (¥600), however—you could do as well by slapping a supermarket fish on a slice of baguette. Mains include cutlet sandwiches (¥1,100), pastas (¥1,100-1,200), grilled pork (¥1,600), a kushiage plate (¥1,800) and a ribeye steak (¥1,800),

If you're looking for delicious pancakes in the big culinary jungle of Roppongi Hills, then head over to Moroko Bar and enjoy sweet and savory pancakes, which come in either fluffy or crispy types (¥1,200-1,700), served in big portions. Lunch menus for ¥1,000. Fourlegged friends can join in the fun and choose from a special menu for dogs (¥400-600) and catch fresh air on the terrace. Mori Tower Hillside B1, 6-10-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Nearest station: Roppongi. http:// cafe.morokobar.com

EN/JP

king of gyoza BY WENDY NGUYEN

Walking through the maze-like laneways of Nakano Broadway can work up quite an appetite, and deciding where to eat can be a bit daunting. Gyoza No Ohsho serves up Chinese food that’s delicious and cheap—and right in the middle of the action. This low-key restaurant looks and feels much more like a familyrun business than your average chain. The eatery offers mostly bar seating, where you can watch chefs meticulously mold and perfect the restaurant’s famed gyoza. The menu has a few standout items, and if you’re unsure, just take a peek at what the locals are ordering. The gyoza (¥240 for six pieces) are a must-have. They’re freshly made in-house, and upon tasting the delicate parcels, the difference between handmade and mass-produced becomes apparent. These gyoza are extremely thin-skinned and deliciously juicy on the inside—and when dunked in the shop’s delicately balanced mixture of soy sauce and vinegar, they’re perfection! Another popular dish is the niraniku itame (sautéed pork liver and leek, ¥480). Pork liver is easy to overcook, and often ends up tough and dry—but Ohsho delivers it soft and tender every time. The leek and bean sprouts give the dish a freshness and crunch that eliminate the oft-overwhelming oiliness of Chinese cuisine. The mapo-dōfu (bean curd with minced

RECIPE NO-BAKE TOFU CHEESECAKE RECIPE AND PHOTO BY RIEKO SUZUKI

Love a good cheesecake but have dietary restrictions forcing you to miss out? Rejoice: this is a no-bake, low-calorie and gluten-free cheesecake that uses tofu, fat-free yogurt and kanten (agar) instead of gelatin, which gives the cheesecake a slightly firmer texture. With this recipe, you can have your cake and eat it too!

Photos by Tommy Pham

RESTAURANT

Photo by Nina Janezic

Courtesy of ジェイアール東日本フードビジネス(株)

Upscale supermarket chain Kinokuniya extends its reign on Japan’s food empire with the opening of Kinokuniya Vino Kitchen. Located at Atre Vie Mitaka, this cafe and wine bar features a wide selection of imported and local wines. The menu consists of original recipes from Hitoshi Iwasaki, chef at the Hotel Metropolitan Marunouchi’s Tenqoo restaurant, utilizing ingredients available at the supermarket. 3-46-4 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka City. Mitaka. http://meturl.com/atrevie

Start to finish: 3.5h (active time 40 min) Servings: 8 • • • • • • • • •

150g fat-free yogurt (drained overnight using a paper towel or a coffee filter over a strainer) 150g kinu (silken) tofu 100g cream cheese 80g sugar 1 tbsp lemon juice (1 tbsp = 15ml) 100ml water 4g kanten powder (2 tsp) Optional: Fresh fruit or jam for serving Optional: 1 tbsp white wine (1 tbsp = 15ml)

DIRECTIONS: 1.

meat and chili sauce, ¥500) is deliciously balanced between the delicately soft, slightly sweet tofu and the faintly sour mapo sauce. The chili sauce could be stronger, but as the dish is adapted to local tastes, the heat downgrade is forgivable. No visit to this Chinese restaurant would be complete without its signature fried rice: the tenshindon (fried egg and crab-topped fried rice in a soy-based sauce, ¥480) is packed with flavor. The rice is seasoned perfectly and less oily than traditional varieties; instead, it’s moist and well-complemented by the sauce. The fried egg on top is a delicious addition that transforms the conventional side dish into a meal that can stand on its own. It’s easy to mistake the humble-looking Nakano restaurant for a traditional, family-run business that’s been in the area for generations—but this is just one of 600 Gyoza No Ohsho restaurants nationwide. 5-56-12 Nakano, Nakano-ku. Nakano. www. ohsho.co.jp

5. 6.

In a deep mixing bowl, combine the yogurt, tofu, cream cheese, sugar, lemon juice and white wine (optional). Hand-blend until smooth. In a small bowl, mix the water and kanten powder. Microwave the mixture on high heat until it boils. Stir until the powder is completely dissolved. Add 100ml of the mixture from step 1 into the kanten mixture from step 2 and microwave to a boil again on high heat. Add the rest of the mixture from step 1 into the katen mixture and stir briskly to avoid lumps. Note: It’s important to keep the mixture from step 1 at room temperature or warmer to prevent the kanten from setting before it’s blended evenly. Pour the final mixture into an 18cm cake mold. Refrigerate for 2.5-3 hours until firm. Serve with jam or fresh fruit if desired.

Rieko Suzuki Rieko blogs bilingual recipes at http://meturl.com/ruby

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Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka

Exit 4, Nagatacho stn Supreme Court

Aoyama Ave Akasaka Mitsuke stn

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National Diet Library

608 Kitano Arms 16-15, Hirakawa-cho, 2-Chome, Chiyoda-ku ,Tokyo, 102-0093

Tel: 03-5216-6890 Fax: 03-5216-6891 Email: hiroshioogai@j-star.jp 10

Imperial Palace

escapes

FINDING FALL COLORS

BEYOND TOKYO If you’re up for more fresh air and exertion than Tokyo’s parks can offer, head out to one (or more) of the many hiking trails in the hills on the city’s western edge. Great hiking options with beautiful fall foliage include Takao-san and various parts of Chichibu-TamaKai National Park—or you could hit Kamakura further south.

Experience the kōyō in Tokyo BY HELEN LANGFORD

Each of Japan’s four seasons has its own distinct “must-see” natural wonder. Fall’s principal natural delight—changing leaves, or kōyō—is on display from October to December, and lasts long enough for even the busiest foliage fans to get in some leaf time. Location plays a part in how early or late the leaves change, but Tokyo is looking at mid-November to midDecember for the most part, with mountain areas starting earlier. So throw on a cozy coat, pack yourself a bento and head out for some brilliant fall hues.

Want to know more? Check out http://metropolisjapan.com/ finding-fall-colors/ Kōyō at Rikugien Gardens Photo by Mike Kanert

Koganei area. Both have barbecue areas, and Nogawa offers a small playground on its far side. The parks are best known for maples, though the cherry trees in Musashino Park also put on quite a show—as do cosmos flowers earlier in the fall. Shin-Koganei. http:// meturl.com/nogawa Photo by Helen Langford

RIKUGIEN GARDENS Declared “a special beauty spot of Japan” in 1953, Rikugien Gardens features maple, zelkova and ginko trees among others. Expect mind-blowing brilliance to span the last third of November to mid-December, including evening illumination. Komagome. http://meturl. com/rikugarden

INOKASHIRA PARK Straddling Kichijoji and Mitaka, Inokashira Park is known for its maples, though its cherry trees also turn a lovely shade of red. Rent a paddle or swan boat and enjoy the view from the water. Those with young children should check out Inokashira Park Zoo, where the small entrance fee tends to keep the area less crowded than the rest of the park. JR Kichijoji or Inokashira Koen. http://meturl. com/inopark

MUSASHINO PARK AND NOGAWA PARK Musashino Park and Nogawa Park sit on opposite sides of a small road in the Mitaka-Chofu-

SHOWA KINEN PARK Showa Kinen Park sprawls sumptuously over Tokyo’s Tachikawa-Akishima area. Its most famous fall feature is an avenue of ginko trees accessible from the Tachikawa entrance, though there’s also a Japanese garden with beautiful Japanese maples closer to the Sunagawa gate. Check the map on the park’s website to find the best station for your desired destination, or you could find yourself in for a long haul. The park also boasts several brilliant play areas, one of which is barrierfree, so if you’ve got wee ones who care less about brilliantly colored foliage, Showa Park has something to keep them busy. Aim for

FOR MORE GREAT ESCAPES IN JAPAN VISIT JAPANTRAVEL.COM

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mid-November to see leaves at their vibrant peak. http://meturl.com/showakinen

KOGANEI PARK Located on the Koganei-Kodaira border, Koganei Park is accessible from JR Higashi-Koganei or Musashi-Koganei stations, as well as the Seibu Shinjuku line’s Hana-Koganei station (roughly a 20-25-minute walk from each station; buses also available). Though it has lovely maples, it’s best known for its ginko trees. The park has several playgrounds, including a large, newly renovated one, and a barbecue area, making it a good location for a fall family outing. The on-site Open Air Architectural Museum (Edo-Tokyo Tatemono-en) has gorgeous Japanese maples that are highlighted by a special weekend of evening illumination scheduled for November 22-24 from 4:30-8pm daily. Musashi-Koganei. http://meturl.com/ koganeipark With Ueno, Shinjuku Gyoen, Yoyogi, Yasukuni Shrine and dozens more still on the list, Tokyo has far too many parks, gardens, shrines and temples to mention them all. Many are listed on the Tokyo Metropolitan Parks Association website and its Let’s Go To The Gardens page. Let’s Go To The Gardens: http://meturl.com/gogardens Tokyo Metropolitan Parks Association: http://meturl.com/tokyoparks

movies

BY DON MORTON

featured movie

THE HUNDRED-FOOT JOURNEY An Indian restaurateur (Om Puri) and his family open Maison Mumbai in a quaint town in southern France— as it happens, directly across the picturesque lane from the Michelin-starred, classical French eatery Le Saule Pleureur, overseen by the haughty Madame Mallory (Helen Mirren). Culinary culture clashes ensue. Fine so far. But about halfway through the film’s two-hour running time, they all realize that, well golly, they’re not so different after all, and after that it’s all postcard-pretty sweetness and light, and it veers off into irrelevant tangents. Don’t get me wrong; at a time when too many movies are geared toward the questionable tastes of preteen boys, there’s certainly room for sweetness and light and movies made for grownups. And no movie featuring Helen Mirren and Om Puri can ever be bad. It’s just that for a movie about food, especially spicy Indian fare, this innocuous crowd-pleaser is pretty bland. Directed by Lasse Hallström, who hasn’t made a really good movie since 1999’s The Cider House Rules, and has even sunk so low as to direct a couple of films adapted from Nicholas Sparks drivel. Not great, but diverting. Call it the cinematic equivalent of comfort food. Japanese title: Madame Mallory to Mahō no Spice. (122 min)

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SON OF A GUN A young man (an unbelievably bland Brenton Thwaites) is provided protec tion during his brief stint in prison by a notorious criminal (a just plain unbelievable Ewan McGregor) in return for helping the older man escape when he gets out, after which they steal some gold or something. I’m not sure what the makers of this little Aussie flick were trying to do. If it was to stuff every possible prison-life/break, heist, car-chase and gangster cliché into one overlong movie, it works fine. It’s relatively coherent for all that. It’s just that it’s all been done before, often and better. Facile ending. Japanese title: Guns & Gold. (108 min)

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NYMPHOMANIAC VOL. II A l a s , L a r s v o n Tr i e r seems to have run out of narrative in this second half of Joe the selfdescribed nymphomaniac’s autobiography, and falls back on graphic S&M and a kind of homage to himself, goofing on his own oeuvre. Hardcore unpleasantness and heavier provocations replace (mostly) the uncharacteristic humor of the first film, and while Vol. I could stand alone, this unfocused, over-plotted and more sinister second half could not. Hated the ending. Still, while von Trier goes to great lengths to provoke, he is never less than compulsively watchable. See Nymphomaniac: Vol. I review in issue 1073. (122 min)

THE EXPENDABLES 3 Let me see if I’ve got this straight, Sylvester. Joining your own Rambo you’ve got Indiana Jones, the Terminator, Blade, Hercules, the Transporter, Zorro and Mad Max. And this cartoonish piece of brainless crap is the best you can come up with? News flash, Sly: self-parody is only funny if it’s not the only thing you have left. Please. Retire. You’re not getting any prettier. At least stop trying to write screenplays. Bright points: A show-stealing Antonio Banderas as a motormouthed mercenary and Mel Gibson who, despite his despicable off-screen issues, makes for an enormously entertaining evildoer. Japanese title: Expendables 3 World Mission. (126 min)

THE EQUALIZER D e nze l Wa s h i n g to n’s a retired CIA wet ops guy who just can’t help but rescue a teenage hooker from her cartoonishly evil Russian pimps. This pulpy vigilante fantasy is directed by Anton Fuqua, who has, since 2001, been dining out on Training Day (which earned Denzel an Oscar) but has produced mostly dreck since then. It would have helped if anything in it were remotely believable. It works well as a kick-ass, sadistic righteous-revenge flick if that’s what you’re looking for, but I found the protagonist to be so superhero invincible that any hope of suspense is sabotaged. Should have been more fun. (133 min)

CUBAN FURY Prompted by the arrival at his company of a pretty new boss (Rashida Jones) who’s into salsa dancing, Bruce (Nick Frost), a now-overweight child salsa prodigy who 25 years ago was bullied into quitting, seeks out his childhood dance teacher (Ian McShane) to get his groove back. A training montage occurs. A big dance contest looms. Chris O’Dowd’s a smarmy ladies-man coworker. Yes, this Brit-com date movie is pretty formulaic, but hard to dislike. And while there’s not a lot of fury or other strong emotion in evidence, it remains an amiable if somewhat flat-footed, forgettable entertainment. Japanese title: Comeback! (98 min)

HERCULES In last month’s review of The Legend of Hercules, I said wait for this one. But while this my thic mu d d l e i s marg inall y better, it’s a major misfire. First, all those cool stunts in the trailer are cheats and happen during the opening credits. Second, its intriguing revisionist premise— that Hercules is not a demigod at all but a common mercenary who trades on and feeds the mythology as a way to get work for his gang of head-busters—is totally squandered in favor of repeated, unremarkable CG battle sequences and jarring pop culture jokes aimed at 12-year-old boys. Well, it’s Brett Ratner, isn’t it? (98 min)

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Hercules: © 2014 Paramount Pictures and Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures. All Rights Reserved.; Son of a Gun: © 2013 S O A G H oldings P ty Ltd, S creen A ustralia, S creenW est Inc. and S creen N S W; Nymphomaniac Vol. II: © 2013 ZENTROPA ENTERTAINMENTS31 APS, ZENTROPA INTERNATIONAL KÖLN, SLOT MACHINE, ZENTROPA INTERNATIONAL FRANCE, CAVIAR, ZENBELGIE, ARTE FRANCE CINÉMA; The Expendables 3: © EX3 Productions, Inc. All Rights Reserved.; Cuban Fury: © STUDIOCANAL LIMITED / THE BRITISH FILM INSTITUTE / CHANNEL FOUR TELEVISION CORPORATION 2013. All Rights Reserved.; The Hundred-Foot Journey: © 2014 DreamWorks ll. Distribution Co. All Rights Reserved.; A Most Wanted Man: © A Most Wanted Man Limited / Amusement Park Film GmbH; Epic: © 2013 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All Rights Reserved.; Grace of Monaco: ©2014 STONE ANGELS SAS; Scum: © Kendon Films Ltd. MCMLXXIX All Rights Reserved.; A Million Ways to Die in the West: © Universal Pictures; If I Stay: © 2014 Warner Bros. Ent. and Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures Inc. All rights Reserved.

More reviews: metropolisjapan.com/movies

A MOST WANTED MAN When a severely abused Russian-Chechen immigrant (Grigoriy Dobrygin) sur faces in H amburg seeking asylum, competing intelligence agencies begin to circle, suspecting he’s there to do mischief. Going against this mindset is a German spymaster who thinks the man is innocent and can be better used to bag a wealthy Islamic philanthropist he suspects of financing terrorists. Dramatically understated but visually striking and intellectually suspenseful. This may be minor John le Carré, but it’s major Philip Seymour Hoffman (his last movie), and well worth seeing for the actor’s intensity and nuance. Japanese title: Dare Yori Mo Nerawareta Otoko. (121 min)

EPIC Boy, talk about a misleading title. How about “Middling”? I like “ U n d e r w h e l m i n g .” I t seems there’s a battle raging in our forests between two races of tiny people, one of which causes things to grow and another that seeks only decay. Stumbling into this world is a disaffected teen embarrassed by her geeky scientist dad’s obsession with said fairy war. This one looks great, but the story’s so repetitive and filled with over-familiar tropes that it probably plays better with the sound off. Lots of celebrity voice talent; little momentum or imagination. From the people who did Ice Age and Rio. ‘Nuff said. Japanese title: Mary to Himitsu no Okoku. (102 min)

GRACE OF MONACO Here we have a “fictionalized story, based on true events.” (Don’t you just love all the ways the makers of bad movies have of rewording this caveat?) In 1962, Alfred Hitchcock offered Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco (Nicole Kidman) the lead in Marnie. Cornball story tells of how she is tempted but bravely refuses and pluckily buckles down to become a true royal, and in the process, through pure charm, saves the royal family from a palace coup and Monaco from a French invasion (over taxes), and delivers a rousing speech at—wait for it—a lavish charity ball. Jeez. Who cares? Dramatically inert middlebrow mush. Japanese title: Grace of Monaco: Kohi no Kirifuda. (102 min)

SCUM Ever wonder where tough-guy British actor Ray Winstone star ted out? With tough-kid Britgrit roles, of course. This 1977 docudrama, shot when Ray was 20, exposed the brutality of the country’s “borstal” system of juvenile detention centers (since improved). It’s hard to watch in some places, with violent and graphic scenes of bullying and rape, but never less than compelling. It was originally commissioned for the BBC as a critique of this kind of institutional dehumanization. When the Beeb deemed it too violent for broadcast, director Alan Clarke reshot it as a feature film. Still powerful today. (98 min)

IF I STAY A teenage girl’s family is wiped out in a car crash and she’s left in a coma, but through a mystical narrative device she’s split between her comatose self and a “spirit” self who wanders around the hospital wondering if she should succumb or awake as an orphan (albeit with a hunky boyfriend). I’m not familiar with the YA novels of Gayle Forman, but I’m pretty sure she reads Nicholas Sparks. Manipulative, banal and relentlessly drippy. But the acting’s good, especially Chloë Grace Moretz, who at 17 is showing signs that she just might survive the transition from child sensation to grown-up actor. Japanese title: If I Stay: Ai ga Kaeru Basho. (106 min)

A MILLION WAYS TO DIE IN THE WEST At f irst I thought this charmless oater send-up might be more watchable had writer/director/producer Seth MacFarlane cast a real comedic actor in the lead instead of himself. You know, someone funny. But almost two padded hours later, I realized that no cast, no matter how all-star, could make this flaccid collection of fart, poop, come and piss jokes palatable to anyone but its target audience of preteen boys. MacFarlane clearly thinks he’s remaking Mel Brooks’s Blazing Saddles. This is insulting in itself. I used to think the man was merely annoying. Now I hate him. Japanese title: Koya wa Tsuraiyo: Arizona yori Ai wo Komete. (116 min)

eiga

Masafumi Nishida is well known as a scriptwriter and novelist. He’s penned successful TV series like Jikken Keiji Totori and Afuro Tanaka, and in 2012 he published the eponymous novel on which this flick is based. He By Rob Schwartz also converted it into a stage play starring the same two leads last year. Nishida now makes his directorial debut with a story about an awkward and endearing pair of siblings who’ve lived together and relied on each other since their parents passed away when they were young. Reminiscent both in theme and atmosphere to the wonderful Yoshimitsu Morita film The Mamiya Brothers (2006), Susumu Onodera (Osamu Mukai) is now 33, and his older sister Yoriko (Hairi Katagiri) has hit 40. They’re totally comfortable around each other—perhaps too much so—and show little sign of any desire to have romantic relationships in their lives. When a letter is misdelivered, it sets off a chain of events that changes their lives and opens them up. Sweet, funny and charming, this yarn unspools in a delightful way. English title: Oh Brother, Oh Sister. (114 min)

ONODERA NO OTŌTO ONODERA NO ANE

movie news

Tim Burton’s Batman opened 25 summers ago and, for better or worse, launched a new wave of superhero movies that’s still going strong today. “It was groundbreaking, frankly,” Michael Keaton said at the recent Venice Film Festival. “Tim changed a lot, and I was part of that— proudly so.” Keaton, now 63, was recently in Italy to promote Birdman, in which he plays a fading actor who once enjoyed the fame of an iconic superhero role but is struggling to make a comeback on Broadway. The film has already won a great deal of acclaim for director Alejandro González Iñárritu, who choreographed the camera and actors (including fellow superhero alums Edward Norton and Emma Stone) to make the drama unfold in an apparent single take. Keaton’s performance has also given rise to speculation that he may win his first Oscar more than 30 years into his career. Keaton admitted that playing Batman had a huge effect on his career by making him internationally famous, but that the role has not “followed him around” throughout his career. Not so for his own screen character, though: “Birdman is not going anywhere,” Keaton said. “And you all got a Birdman. He is your negative ego who wants control. And you either have to make peace with him or kick his ass.” Kevin Mcgue

cinematic underground

The 18th-century French novel Beauty and the Beast has been adapted for f ilm several times, with the Disneyfied version being the most widely seen. Now the French have reclaimed the tale with a live action take starring Léa Seydoux and Vincent Cassel that sticks closely to the 1756 source material by JeanneMarie Leprince de Beaumont. Playing from November 1 at Shinjuku Piccadilly (3-15-15 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; www.shinjukupiccadilly.com) ... Of Horses and Men, the Icelandic film that won the Tokyo International Film Festival in 2012, returns for a run from November 1 at Image Forum in Shibuya (2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuyaku; www.imageforum.co.jp). Shot in a scenic, rural part of the country with sparse dialogue, it portrays the close relationship the people have with their horses ...The French-Canadian film Tom at the Farm starts as a drama with a gay man traveling to a small town to attend his lover’s funeral, but soon turns into a psychological thriller when the family forces him into a game of survival. Shortlisted for Best Picture at the 2nd Canadian Screen Awards in March, it’s playing now at Human Trust Cinema Yurakucho (2-7-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; www.ht-cinema.com). KM

city life ASK METROPOLIS ANYTHING I’m finally admitting to myself that I am gay, but too afraid to come out to my family and friends. My parents are religious and would freak if they knew. But I need to talk to someone or else I will go crazy. Is there a gay community in Tokyo that you could recommend? I feel so alone and need to know that there are other gay people like me out there. Please help me.—Confused Dear Confused, We passed your question on to the good people at TELL. Here’s what they had to say: It is great to hear you are feeling comfortable enough with yourself to accept your sexual orientation; this is an important first step. Please know that being gay is no different from someone having blue eyes or curly hair—it’s not a choice or a lifestyle but a fact of life. We are all the same, whether you are attracted to someone of the same sex,

PUPPY EYES YEAR-ROUND The dog days are here all year with Animal Refuge Kansai’s (ARK) new calendar: twelve pages of adorable shelter animals who’ve been given a second chance at life. Proceeds from sales go toward supporting ARK’s International Animal Welfare Facility in Sasayama, Hyogo prefecture, as well as feeding and caring for the furry ones. ¥1,000 plus postage. calendar@arkbark.net

opposite sex, tall, short… Speaking to families and friends is something many people from the LGBTQ community have concerns about, and a topic all our Lifeline counselors can support you with. At some point it will be important to speak with your parents and friends; hopefully they will give you the unconditional support and love you deserve. Please know that if they do not, this is their problem and not a failing on your behalf. Sadly, bigotry and discrimination are still major factors that create barriers, risks and stressors for many LGBTQ people around the world. While Japan does not penalize same -sex relationships, homophobia, marginalization and stigmatization still create many obstacles for gay men and women in this country. Sexual orientation and gender identity are integral aspects of our selves, and should never lead to discrimination or abuse. I can hear you feel

DOG-WALK THIS WAY Take eager animals on a hike through Niigata BY SANDRA YÉPEZ RÍOS

As autumn arrives, it’s a perfect time to venture into the great outdoors—such as the beautiful forests of Fusube, Niigata, where furry four-legged friends await with tails a-wagging to join you on your trek.

very alone. As you begin to speak publicly about your sexual orientation, developing a support network will be important. You may have good friends back home you feel you can speak to, and if your parents are not supportive, you may have other relatives you could reach out to. In Japan, there is a growing range of support for LGBTQ people. Stonewall Japan (see opposite) is a good starting point, along with The Tokyo Rainbow English Speaking Society and the OCCUR helpline. Each year, an increasing number of people join the Tokyo Rainbow Pride Parade to help raise awareness and support equal rights, an event TELL is proud to be a part of. Next year, we hope to have a stand, as well as participate in the march—you are very welcome to join us. You are not alone. Answer courtesy of TELL. If you need to talk, they’re here to listen. Call the TELL Lifeline at 03-5774-0992 from 9am-11pm, 365 days a year. Or visit their website at www.telljp.com If you want to “Ask Metropolis Anything” about life in Tokyo, send your questions to askanything@ metropolisjapan.com and we’ll find the most appropriate people to answer your queries.

Animal Friends Japan (AFJ) is a Niigatabased shelter that claims the biggest population of animals rescued from Fukushima in the aftermath of the Tohoku disasters of March 11, 2011. “We’re located about 200 kilometers from Fukushima,” says Isabella Gallaon-Aoki, founder of AFJ, which started as an animal hotel and small shelter in 2008. “As we’re the nearest shelter, the evacuated families called us and asked us to go there and rescue their pets,” she says. That marked the beginning of the facility’s population explosion. “Every day, we transported 20 to 30 animals to our shelter.” Before long, the shelter had received 700 new inhabitants—cats, dogs, rabbits and chickens—all from Fukushima. “Since then, our duty has been to take care of them and try to relocate or reunite them with their families.” Three years later, only 20 pets have been able to return to their previous owners, and a few hundred have found new families. 450 animals still call AFJ home. Overpopulation and limited funds have resulted in too much work for too few hands. “The ideal would be having the shelter managed by a group of 20,” says Rumi Fujikawa, who has been working with AFJ since its early days. The entire

TRY IT OUT Photo by Mike Kanert

global village

STONEWALL JAPAN Japan’s LGBTQ+ connection BY ADRIAN HAZE, PRESIDENT, STONEWALL JAPAN

camaraderie on topics ranging from whether or not to come out in the workplace to how to bring a partner with you to Japan or hyping the newest dating app. On the website alone you can find mental and sexual help resources, options for getting involved, listings of block events in different regions of Japan, and a regular series of posts on day-to-day concerns—even including interviews with major figures like George Takei. With a large chunk of the membership in the education field, there are also resources for introducing queer and trans topics in lessons, as well as sometimes heartwarming (and sometimes disturbing) tales of student interaction. http://stonewall.ajet.net

facility is run by eight staff, but there were times when there were only four. Daily chores in the shelter include preparing food for each animal, cleaning the cages of cats and rabbits and taking dogs out for walks. With more than 100 canines, two hours of nonstop hiking per person still only allows a 10- to 15-minute walk per dog. “If there were more people, each

dog could enjoy more time outdoors,” explains Isabella. With this in mind, the shelter welcomes volunteers year-round to come help walk the dogs. It even provides a nearby apartment to host those coming from other cities free of charge. For animal lovers who can’t make the long-term commitment of fostering, visiting these dogs and cats is an excellent way to spend quality time and brighten their day—and yours. If you can’t make it out to Niigata, AFJ holds adoption events one Sunday each month at the Farmers Market in front of the United Nations University in Aoyama, where visitors can see the animals up for adoption and learn about other ways to get involved. “We’re moving forward, but at the same time we have huge financial hurdles to overcome,” Gallaon-Aoki admits, and the shelter is always in search of donations and fundraising assistance. AFJ also operates an animal hotel with a pick-up service for pets outside of Niigata, with 100 percent of the hotel’s income used to fund the shelter. For more information about upcoming adoption events, or to learn more about volunteering and donating programs in AFJ, check its websites: www.facebook.com/afniigata www.af-niigata.org

ODAKYU ECONOMICAL EXCURSION TICKETS WHERE TO GET THEM: Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center at Odakyu line Shinjuku station, West Exit 1F. The Hakone Freepass is also available from ticket vending machines at all Odakyu line stations. www.odakyu. jp/english/deels/ TYPES: Hakone Freepass: You can get on and off freely throughout a specified area, includes full coverage of the popular sightseeing destinations in Hakone, discount admission to various attractions in the area and return transportation on the Odakyu line. Valid for 2-3 days, ¥1,750-5,140 (from Shinjuku to Hakone). Fuji Hakone Pass: Includes one round-trip from Tokyo, Shinjuku (Odakyu line/Chuo Highway Bus), unlimited use of specified transport in the Hakone and Fuji areas and reduced admission price to various museums as well as restaurant discounts. Valid for 3 days, ¥3,700-7,400. ©123RF

Stonewall Japan works to connect queer and trans people, as well as their allies, all across Japan. Originally created in the early 1990s as a support group for LGBTQIA JET Programme participants, the organization expanded in 2012, opening its gates to all rainbow-inclined foreign and Japanese individuals. Stonewall Japan’s Leadership Council is spread geographically across the country, working together to uncover queer/transfriendly locales and organize meetup events through monthly email newsletters. Members are always on the lookout for resources to compile for public consumption on both the wiki site and official website. Many have come to rely on the Facebook group for counseling and

Fall tempts city dwellers to get out and explore. But if you’re on a budget, the price of transportation can root your feet in the concrete jungle. Being a foreigner in Japan has its perks, though: pick up one of these foreigner-exclusive travel tickets and stop stressing about your expenses!

TOBU RAILWAY DISCOUNT PASS WHERE TO GET IT: Online and Tobu Sightseeing Service Center in Tobu Asakusa station. www.tobu.co.jp/foreign/ pass/ TYPES: All Nikko Pass: Includes round-trip travel from Asakusa and unlimited travel on buses between Nikko and Okunikko and on trains between Nikko and the Kinugawa Onsen area. Valid for 4 days, ¥2,280-4,520. 2-Day Nikko Pass: Includes one round trip between Asakusa and Shimo-Imaichi, unlimited train rides between Shimo-Imaichi,Tobu Nikko and ShinFujiwara and unlimited bus rides between JR Nikko, Tobu Nikko, Nishi-Sando and Rengeishi stations.

feature

THE COUNCIL IS OPEN Nakano’s Wataru Ishizaka opens the door for gay officials BY MARTIN LEROUX

IN NAKANO, IT DOESN’T MATTER IF YOU’RE GAY OR NOT.”

“N

akano is an open city—a place where people who come are welcomed,” says Wataru Ishizaka, city councillor for Nakano ward. “I thought this would be an easier place to live in. And once I moved here, it was.” As one of only two openly gay men holding elected office in Japan, Ishizaka has a personal appreciation for Nakano’s historical embrace of diversity. A traditional resting spot for Ainu people traveling south from Hokkaido, as well as a popular location for resettled Okinawans, Nakano today is home to various ethnic and sexual minority groups, including a large LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender) community. “Nakano has the interesting quality of being a place that absorbs many different ideas,” Ishizaka tells Metropolis. Ishizaka originally hails from Inagi city in western Tokyo, where he worked as a volunteer with children with special

needs. “As a sexual minority, I related to children with disabilities—another minority group—and I thought there was something I could do,” he says. His desire to help led him to take a non-degree course in developmental disorders, after which he obtained his teaching license and started working at a school for children with disabilities in Nerima ward. “At the training school, there were gender-specific terms used for the children, and the teachers would try to get the boys to behave more masculine and the girls to behave more feminine. I didn’t want to be that kind of teacher. When teaching animals to children, they would push lions and dogs to boys, and cats and rabbits to girls,” he laughs. “I was the teacher who asked the kids, ‘But aren’t there female lions and male rabbits?’” The school’s location prompted Ishizaka to move to nearby Nakano, where he took advantage of the opportunity to engage with the area’s wellestablished LGBT community, and became active in volunteer work with local groups. But he still wanted to do more. “[My partner and I] worked directly with community groups, but it wasn’t enough—we needed to change the system. And for that to happen, we needed someone on the council.” A soft-spoken man with an indelible smile, Ishizaka first ran for office in 2007; he won in 2011. He now steps into an age where LGBT issues are slowly gaining acceptance in Japan, with even First Lady Akie Abe joining the third annual Tokyo Rainbow Pride event in April this year—an event in which Ishizaka also frequently participates. “There’s an increasing amount of support, but there’s still a lot of negativity,” Ishizaka says of the national climate toward LGBT concerns. “So it’s unrealistic to expect immediate change. However, there’s a sense that Japanese citizens’s thinking is changing significantly.”

shizaka has always been about reaching out. “When I was a student, I wanted to be a social studies teacher so I could protect groups who were vulnerable in terms of human rights: Those with special needs, LGBT people, foreigners, and so on,” he says. “I discovered my sexuality when I was in elementary school, and I was confused by it,” he reveals candidly, though the issue remains a sensitive one for him. “When I was 17, I became interested in someone but didn’t want to reveal my feelings to him in case it would bother him. “In time, I really wanted to tell him how I felt before graduation. When I told him, he said he wasn’t gay and couldn’t receive my feelings—but he also said it wasn’t an issue that I was gay. After being able to come out to the person I liked, I started telling my close friends.” He eventually told his family, though it took a while before they came around: “With my friends, many of them accepted me as I was. With my parents, we clashed almost daily for three years after I came out before they could accept it too.” However, Ishizaka also acknowledges that there’s much work to be done before LGBT issues will be openly addressed and embraced by the Japanese government. “Things can progress if the LGBT community raises its voice, but they’re still hesitant. Unless they do this, the higher-ups may understand that the community is having problems, but won’t know what those problems are exactly.” That said, gay rights aren’t Ishizaka’s principal platform. “In Nakano, it doesn’t matter if you’re gay or not,” he says. Rather, he uses his public position to serve as a voice for all vulnerable and underrepresented communities. “As someone who lives in Nakano-ku, I sense this is an environment where it’s very possible to be accepted,” he beams. Ishizaka believes the future is bright for everyone—especially in his city.

LINGO BOX Tayōsei (多様性)= diversity Shōsū-ha (少数派）= minority group Gi-kai gi-in (議会議員)= councillor Dō-sei ai-sha (同性愛者)= homosexual person Kyōiku (教育)= education

UT L-O PUL DE GUI

PROMOTIONAL SPECIAL

NAKANO BEAT SHOP THE BLOCK AT THE HEART OF SUBCULTURE

NAKANO SPECIAL

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BEST BUYS

akano is a study in contrasts: here, octogenarian grannies haul shopping carts toe-to-toe with quirkily dressed young fashionistas, each vying for a bargain. Manga megaplexes attract hordes of otaku, and not far away, worshipers rock up to a venerable temple to pray. Nakano ward is heady with youth; its population’s highest age concentration is in young adults in their

NAKANO BROADWAY

JACK ROAD Rolex, Hermès, Patek Philippe, Chanel; Casio, Seiko, Citizen; Bulgari, Tag Heuer, Omega. Watch faces gleam from every corner as the smartly besuited staff tick off the merits of this piece or that to the well-heeled customers. Jack Road carries new, used and antique watches for men; its sister store just across the aisle, Betty Road, does the same for women. The shop, opened in 1987, started as an antique shop but soon homed in on wristwatches, and now serves an international clientele searching for that special something. With over 3,000 pieces, you’re sure to find something, whether you’re searching for a handsome and functional piece or a rare collector’s item. Tel: 03-3386-9399. www.jackroad.co.jp

20s and 30s, situated as it is close to three major universities—Waseda, Teikyo Heisei and Meiji— as well as several smaller institutions. But this is not a place overrun solely with young whippersnappers; coexistence prevails here. The area running from Nakano station north to Arai Yakushi Bashoin temple encompasses Nakano’s main arteries, a network of shopping streets and arcades buzzing with activity. To

the northwest of the station, Nakano Central Park is a gathering place and green space, flanked with restaurants and flecked with picnickers. Sun Mall, due north of the station, is a long, glass-covered arcade running for several blocks and filled with over a hundred shops and restaurants on either side of the walkway. The shopping street bustles with busy consumers and window shoppers, who can flit or meander from store to store without fear of foul weather. Reaching the end of Sun Mall, Nakano Broadway looms: a brightly lit behemoth pulsing with action. Bargains abound—a new dress for ¥500, socks and leggings for pocket change—while the raucous sounds of arcades and purikura reverberate down the narrow corridors. On the upper floors is a nerd mecca: comic books, cosplay and toys compete for space in this noisy, colorful, mishmash of a shopping center. Beyond Broadway, a slightly more sedate but no less interesting center of consumer culture is found in Ai Road, a stretch lined with tasteful shops and pretty lanterns whose theme changes according to the season. Here, traditional generations-old shops share perimeters with new kids on the block. This is the spot to pick up those daily goods and gifts that are still sold in specialty shops by people who know what they’re doing. “Aji ga aru,” you might say: this place has flavor. Only minutes away from Shinjuku, but entirely with its own character, Nakano is a tasty mix of old and new. Sample the sights and sounds, see the street life and feel the heartbeat. Welcome to Nakano!

NAKANO SPECIAL

NAKANO BROADWAY

PONY

MORE INFO ONLINE → METURL.COM/NAKANOBW

Pony is the only actual toy shop in Nakano Broadway. While there are many stores that sell toys, those toys are mainly second-hand and collectable items sold to a predominantly adult customer base. Pony sells a huge variety of new toys to children and parents, though the shop does have wares that cater to hobbyists’s tastes as well. The only shop in the center that stocks new official Studio Ghibli plush toys and accessories, Pony is a fun and fascinating place to visit. Tel: 03-3387-7451

ANIME SHOP COMMIT

Before the animation world moved to digital, creating many of Japan’s most famous titles was a painstaking process that involved painting thousands of individual cellophane sheets, or cels, which were then filmed. These cels were often sold to collectors at the end of an anime’s production run. Anime Shop Commit is the last shop in Japan dedicated to selling cells directly to customers. It has a massive selection that includes the most famous anime titles from the 1980s and 1990s. Going through the inventory, however, takes some time, so be prepared to search long and hard for your original piece of anime history. Tel: 03-3389-8809. www.commit.co.jp

Print Mouse is a print shop specializing in printing onto hard plastic products. Customers can bring in any image they want or use the shop’s computer to search for something to be printed onto iPhone and iPad cases, keyboards, mobile battery chargers or simple plastic sheets (up to A3 size). Prints are photo quality and full color. Customers may also create a custom layout with a number of images and typography. Print Mouse’s in-house designers can sit with a customer to ensure the final print is tailored specifically to the way he or she wants it. Tel: 03-5942-6066 print-mouse.com

TANSU-YA Kimono are the most famous example of Japanese fashion. While they’re fairly easy to find in Japan, they are also prohibitively expensive and often require specific fitting sessions. Tansu-ya sells high-quality used kimono. As with most second-hand goods in Japan, “used” is a relative term for kimono, as they are often well cared-for. Prices, however, are a fraction of the cost of brand-new kimono, making those at Tansu-ya excellent value. Tansu-ya also sells a selection traditional Japanese clothes and accessories that make perfect souvenirs. Tel: 03-5318-5291. http://tansuya.jp

PLABBIT Opened in April 2014, Plabbit is one the newest shops in Nakano Broadway. Plabbit creates, assembles and customizes plastic Gundam models. From simply adding panel gap lines to full-chrome electroplating, complete custom paint-jobs, metal accessories and custom modifications, there’s no limit to what customers can order to make their model unique. The turnaround time for custom work is upward of a month, but for customers who can’t or don’t want to wait, Plabbit also sells a selection of pre-built custom models at its showroom. While the custom models aren’t cheap, each example is truly a one-of-a-kind master artwork. Tel: 035942-5629. http://plabbit.ocnk.net

PRINT MOUSE

B1F DAILY CHIKO Home of the famous rainbow sof t- ser ve tower cone, Daily Chiko has been in Nakano Broadway since the center opened. The shop serves eight flavors, three of which are seasonal. There are three size options to choose from. The small and medium allow customers choose their flavors, but the large is the rainbow tower that stacks all eight. It takes more than six months to master the art of building the mighty tower. But with great ice cream comes great responsibility: if a customer drops his or her beast of a cone, there is no refill! Daily Chiko suggests using a spoon and taking extra special care while eating. Tel: 03-3386-4461. http://twitter.com/Dailychiko

NAKANO SPECIAL

MANDARAKE

MASTERS OF TIME Mandarake (pronounced “man-dah-rah-keh”) is a chain of stores that specializes in buying and reselling Japanese pop culture merchandise. Starting from its humble beginnings as a used comic store in Nakano Broadway, Mandarake has grown to 11 branches around the country, an international online store and a mind-bending 25 individual stores in Nakano Broadway itself. Each store targets a specific niche and is staffed by people who are active members of that niche, sharing their customers’s passions and providing more personalized service. There are also international staff who speak English, Chinese and other languages.

MORE INFO ONLINE → METURL.COM/MANDARAKE

MANIA-KAN On the fourth floor, Mania-kan has select vintage comic books and magazines, including original printed editions of “father of manga” Osamu Tezuka’s work. Mania-kan also stocks limited-print books and classic bonus material art books. It’s an astounding glimpse into the history of manga.

COSPLAY On the second floor, Cosplay sells a selection of handmade, often once-off costumes that were made by actual cosplayers. Because the majority of these costumes are unused, customers can’t try them on for size until they commit to the purchase so as to preserve the costumes’s quality.

PLASTIC On the fourth floor, Plastic is dedicated to dolls and toys for girls. The shop stocks a selection of poseable, customizable dolls, like Dolfie and SD, as well as original Sailor Moon and Barbie dolls from every generation.

HEN-YA On the fourth floor, Hen-ya transpor t s customers back in time through its bright red torii-inspired port al. H en -ya has a selection of tin toys that date back before World War II, as well as other iconic toys and nostalgic goods from every decade of modern Japanese history.

A TRULY SPECIAL COLLECTION

ANIME-KAN Also on the fourth floor, Anime-kan has a small but extremely rare selection of animation cels, original artwork and signed sketches from famous charac ter design ers and animators. A number of its rarest items are auctioned off to Mandarake’s online Everyday Auction, so the selection is constantly changing.

Mandarake’s most popular stores with both Japanese and international customers are its Special stores. Each store caters to specific types of figurines and models. On the second floor, Special 4 delivers doe-eyed damsels to collectors of bishōjo (beautiful girl) figurines. Special 5 stocks a selection of Japanese and Western superhero and movie-themed action figures and statues. The original Special has an assortment of classic toys, including Transformers and that quintessential Japanese pop culture icon, Godzilla. On the third floor, Special 2 serves up Japanese Tokusatsu series, including Kamen Rider products. Special 3 sells Japanese manga representative of modern pop culture, such as Dragon Ball and Saint Seiya. Among Mandarake’s stores dedicated to manga are some that specialize in gender-specific publications, while a classic games store boasts a collection of Japanese titles across every classic game console system. Other Mandarake shops include a trading card store, a model car store, J-Pop and K-Pop stores, and an anime video & CD store. While the specialization of Mandarake’s 25 shops in Nakano Broadway means customers can save time by focusing their efforts on the things that most appeal to them, the sheer number, diversity, and representative history of items in each place makes Mandarake more than just a chain of stores selling second-hand pop culture: together, they form a time capsule dedicated to preserving and sharing that culture with fans around the world of all generations.

⊲Tel: ⊲ 03-3228-0007 ⊲nakano@mandarake.co.jp ⊲ ⊲www.mandarake.co.jp ⊲

NAKANO SPECIAL

SUNMALL MARUZEN

FUJIYA CAMERA Fujiya Camera specializes exclusively in cameras, and stocks a wide selection of new and used equipment from all major manufacturers. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable—many are amateur, if not semi-professional, photographers themselves. Fujiya Camera actually has three stores in close proximity on a side street off of Sun Mall. Across from its main two-story shop is a smaller “junk” shop with recycled camera parts and components for sale. The third shop sells used camera equipment, such as tripods and storage bags, at substantial discounts along with new items. Customers can even trade in their existing camera equipment on the spot to save money when upgrading. All three shops are duty free for travelers, and definitely worth a trip! 5-61-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-53182241. www.fujiya-camera.co.jp

“Made in Japan” is the key theme of this shop, which sells tableware and other decorative household items. The shelves are brimming with domestically produced and occasionally handmade bowls, cups, small dishes, and—perhaps more unique in this modern age—a wide selection of traditional Japanese teapots and vessels for sake. Maruzen’s products are mostly ceramic, but also include glass, wood and plastic. Products that are particularly popular among foreign visitors are little statues of Japanese raccoons known as tanuki, or the beckoning maneki-neko cat statues, as well as chopsticks and cartoon-themed tableware. 5-67-12 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 033387-0882.

ROBO You might be forgiven for thinking you’ve traveled back in time after walking into Robo: most of the decor hasn’t changed since this Japanese pub, or izakaya, opened in 1961. The cozy establishment of seven seats offers patrons something very unusual in modern Japan: the chance to drink sake poured directly from a traditional keg, or taru. Customers can also create their own custom orders, such as requesting fresh vegetables to be cooked on Robo’s authentic charcoal grill. Don’t be perturbed by the lack of prices on the wall menu—checks average around ¥3,000. 5-55-17 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 033387-0646.

UMEYA

TSUJIYA Tsujiya is a family-owned business that has been supplying shoes to Nakano visitors across many generations, tracing its history back to 1926. The shop is an excellent place to find a set of traditional footwear to accompany Japanese garments like kimono or yukata, even offering large-size geta sandals to accommodate foreigners with larger feet. There’s also a variety of modern shoes, including the styles of boots that are quite popular with the cosplay crowd. Tsujiya also stocks a wide made-in-Japan selection of sturdy, storm-resistant umbrellas along with traditional wood and paper parasols. 5-60-8 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 033388-5123. www.nakano-tujiya.com

Browsing the shops in Nakano’s Sun Mall is bound to work up your appetite, and Umeya is a convenient place to enjoy a simple light meal or sumptuous Japanese sweets. This small restaurant with 20 seats was founded in 1956, and although the menu has since expanded, thirdgeneration operator Momoko Okamura still follows her grandmother’s recipes for customer favorites such as the inari-zushi set (vinegared rice stuffed in fried tofu slices) and the cream anmitsu (a traditional Japanese dessert with cold agar jelly cubes, boiled red peas, sweet bean paste, various fruits and syrup). Okamura says her menu is very healthy, as it has vegetarian options and limits the use of added sugar. 5-58-6 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 033387-2390.

WASHIYA Tempting food smells come wafting from this corner store that prepares bento lunch boxes and side dishes—most of which use original recipes from when the shop opened in 1948. Every day Washiya offers 10-13 different types of bento boxes featuring either fish, chicken or pork as the main entrée. The bento boxes are inexpensive, with a tax-inclusive price of approximately ¥500 making them popular for workers in nearby offices as well as locals who prefer not to cook for themselves. Customers can also self-select from nearly 100 varieties of side dishes, paying by weight for their desired amount. 5-63-5 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 035345-5061. www.e-washiya.co.jp

NAKANO SPECIAL

AI ROAD

MORE INFO ONLINE → METURL.COM/AIROAD

KANEKOEN TEA ARAI YAKUSHI BAISHOIN TEMPLE The Arai Yakushi Baishoin temple is an anchor of the community as a place to pray and a place to gather (it’s especially busy during New Year, Setsubun, and hanami season). There’s a well tap here where neighborhood denizens come to freely fill up water bottles with spring water to take home and use for tea and cooking. Kindergarteners troop through the courtyard on their daily walk, and older folks stop to chat near the incense urn after paying their respects at the altar, a small graveyard holding ancestors nearby. As the story goes, during the Edo era, one

of the Tokugawa shoguns had a daughter with failing vision. She came to this temple to pray, and soon after was miraculously healed. Today, the temple is known for healing poor eyesight, and people come from far and wide to pray to the medicine Buddha, known as Yakushi Nyorai, who is protected by 12 fierce and colorful guards hewn from the same tree. Believers also come to pick up omamori, talismans meant to heal bad eyes and more. Legend says that one of the reasons nearby Ai Road was so named was because of the “eye” homophone. 5-3-5 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-33861355. www.araiyakushi.or.jp

Kanekoen knows tea. This family-run tea company now has 58 shops, mostly in the Kanto area, each run by a member of the Ichikawa clan. The Nakano shop has been on Ai Road since 1935, and the current Mr. Ichikawa is a the second-generation manager. Its tea, which is entirely domestically grown, comes mostly from Shizuoka and Kyushu, including its own nearly 400-year-old tea plantation. The shop’s own blend, called aracha, is its biggest seller— a boldly flavored green tea with an underlying sweetness. The shop also has tea accoutrements such as teapots and canisters, and the knowledgeable proprietors can elucidate tea characteristics and brewing tips. 1-32-3 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3386-4426.

SAKAMOTO MISO

KOTOBUKI YU ONSEN Onsen in the middle of Nakano? Casual visitors may not know it, but Nakano is built atop a natural spring, and this bathhouse—the only one in Nakano to tap the spring—draws on the restorative waters to provide an onsen experience right in the middle of the city! This Showa-era establishment opened in 1951, and Mr. Kobayashi is the second-generation owner. He says his onsen is frequented by students from the surrounding universities and young salaried workers, but he welcomes everyone to come and use the baths; kids are welcome, as are tattooed people and international folks. Open from 4pm-1:30am, the bathhouse also boasts a sauna and comic book reading room. Relax, refresh, revitalize. 1-14-13 Arai, Nakanoku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-3387-2047

At Sakamoto Miso, tubs of the fermented paste line the walls and march down the middle of the shop, which has been standing here since the 1950s. Here you can find over 40 varieties of miso from all over Japan. Whether it’s soybean-, rice- or wheat-based, red, white or mixed, smooth or chunky, the shop owners, who have been certified as “miso sommeliers,” can help you find the perfect miso for your taste and occasion. Missing a flavor from another prefecture? Want tips on a lighter, fuller or differently textured miso? This is the place. And if you don’t know what to get, try the tasty awase-miso—the shop’s own miso blend is its top seller. 1-29-8 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-33862862. http://sakamoto-miso.com

WAKA UDON The newly opened Waka restaurant looks like a stylish cafe—and it is—but its specialty is making sanuki udon by day, turning into a sashimi and grilled-food izakaya by night (the udon is still available, of course). Mr. Omori, who grew up eating sanuki udon when he visited his grandmother in Kagawa, is careful to use ingredients and flavors from the region; the noodles are made on-site from flour imported from Kagawa prefecture, while Shikoku ocean products, such as kombu and iriko, are also used to flavor the dishes. Try the shop’s best seller: kakiage udon, a piping-hot bowl of chewy noodles swimming in flavorful dashi, with a crispy heap of mixed tempura to put on top. Itadakimasu! 1-8-7 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-6312-6232.

NAKANO SPECIAL

NAKANO SUN PLAZA

JAPANESE RESTAURANT “NAKANO” At the top of the triangle, Sun Plaza’s 20th floor is home to two restaurants. Located just to the right after exiting the elevator is the elegant Japanese restaurant Nakano. It s view overlooks the Nerima side of Tokyo, and reservations for window-side tables fill up fast. On a clear day, patrons can

MORE INFO ONLINE → METURL.COM/SUNPLAZA

spot the faraway Mount Asama and Mount Tsukuba. Or ask for a counter seat where you can watch the cooks skillfully prepare your order. This restaurant serves all t ypes of Japanese food, including sushi, soba noodles, tempura and grilled fish. The artfully arranged hanakobakozen, which are bowls set in small boxes, are a popular favorite for lunch.

RESTAURANT “121 DINING” 121 Dining is also located on the 20th floor of the Sun Plaza building, occupying the side that overlooks the Shinjuku skyscraper district. Just as with restaurant Nakano, this is the highest vantage point from which to enjoy fine dining in the Nakano area, and offers excellent food and an equally appealing view—particularly at night when Tokyo’s concrete jungle turns into a shim-

mering wonderland. 121 Dining is officially a French restaurant, but the menu offers a range of Westernstyle dishes that include its specialty roast beef, as well as salads and spaghetti. Ordering à la carte is also possible, with three to four different options each for appetizers and meat dishes. 121 Dining and Nakano restaurants are open daily 11:30am-2:30pm (lunch), 5-10pm (dinner). Tel: 03-3388-1150.

SUN PLAZA HOTEL Few people may realize that an 83-room hotel occupies floors 16-19 atop the distinctive, triangular Sun Plaza building, a stone’s throw from Nakano station’s north exit. Nakano lacks the high skyscrapers common in other populated parts of Tok yo, leaving the view of Hotel Sun Plaza’s surrounding environs largely unobstructed. Even though Sun Plaza itself is over 40 years old, the hotel’s rooms have been remodeled to be clean and modern. The hotel mostly offers Western rooms in various layouts of standard single rooms, double rooms and twin rooms. Many guest rooms on the side facing Shinjuku have small sofas upon which to sit and enjoy the expansive view, while single rooms on the building’s other side are complemented with electronic massage chairs. Japanese-style rooms with tatami mats and futons are also available. These rooms look out upon the 16th floor’s small Japanese garden, complete with trees and raked gravel.

CONCERT HALL

You would hardly know you’re in a large city center; the garden obscures the commotion of the streets below and creates an atmosphere of serenity akin to a Japanese inn, or ryokan. All rooms have Wi-Fi, and guests of the hotel can also use Sun Plaza’s pool and gym facilities for a nominal fee. 4-1-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03-33881177. www.sunplaza.jp

Sun Plaza has various other features, including banquet rooms and recreational facilities, but it is best known as a concert venue. Its spacious performance hall features excellent acoustics and includes four levels with a total of 2,222 seats (a purely coincidental number, we are told). The concert hall helped form the entertainment connection to nearby Nakano Broadway by hosting numerous concerts, including world-famous orchestras and musical performers—Bob Marley even had a gig. Nowadays the concert hall ties into Nakano’s otaku culture with regular performances by J-pop group Morning Musume as well as anime-related music and events. Tel: 03-3388-2893

MAP HEIWA PARK STREET

AN O

DO R

ARAI YAKUSHI BAISHOIN

NAK

KANNANA DORI

AI ROAD MIZUHO BANK

WAS EDA DO

NAKANO GYMNASIUM

NAKANO BROADWAY SUNMALL ARCADE

NAKANO SUN PLAZA NAKANO WARD OFFICE

NAKANO KYORITSU HOSPITAL

NAKANO NORTH EXIT ICHIBANGAI NORTH EXIT

JR CHUO LINE

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NAVIGATE THE NICHES OF NAKANO NAKANO BROADWAY OFFICE

YAKUSHI AI ROAD OFFICE

NAKANO SUNMALL OFFICE

NAKANO SUN PLAZA

5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3388-7004 www.nbw.jp

5-67-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo Tel:03-3387-3586

1-22-6 Arai, Nakano-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-6454-0070 www.ai-road.com

4-1-1 Nakano, Nakano-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3388-1151 www.sunplaza.jp

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arts&culture

JAPAN BEAT

S ON I C K A L E I D O S CO P E Shuta Hasunuma’s musical polymorphism BY DAN GRUNEBAUM

A revealing fact about Japan is that its avantgarde arts scene is often more widely acclaimed abroad than at home. From butoh dance to noise music to the post-war Gutai art movement, the biggest recognition often comes overseas. “It’s frustrating that Japanese culture is often best presented, or artworks purchased, by Western fans and collectors,” says young musician Shuta Hasunuma. “The Japanese art scene is frequently late to recognize the value of movements like Gutai. There was a lot of activity in Japan in the ’60s but it took American curators to shine a spotlight on it. Japanese galleries simply follow in their wake.” Happily, that’s not the case for Hasunuma, a self-taught composer of intricate electronic and chamber music scores whose works are acclaimed both at home and abroad. Hasunuma speaks from New York, where he’s on a sixmonth Asian Cultural Council study fellowship. “NYC has a greater variety and deeper history of experimental music than Tokyo,” he explains about his overseas residency. “So I wanted to experience it for myself.” Hasunuma had what he calls a typical upbringing in the home of a Saitama salaryman. There was no inkling of his progressive leanings

in his early studies on electone, or later fondness for J-pop and then American skate punk. “I never went to music school,” Hasunuma says about his background. “I thought about applying to a music college—but there are good and bad points to being taught. I felt like even if I went to a music college, I probably wouldn’t be a very good student, so I decided to do music myself. I did go to college, but I just had my nose in art books the whole time.” Hasunuma’s explorations gradually led him to electronic music and classical composers. Early recognition came for his subtle electronic compositions, which are often constructed around field recordings. “I listened to a lot of sampled pop music, but I like the field recording to remain prominent in the piece,” he says about his working process. “John Cage is definitely a big influence, and the ‘happenings’ of the ’60s. But I’m also influenced by what was happening in Japan. Cage came to Japan, and there was a relationship with Japanese composers like Toru Takemitsu.” More recently, Hasunuma shifted his focus away from the laptop to live instruments. His Philharmonic Orchestra strides a fine line between so-called “new music” and pop. The group has

generated substantial praise, mounting stages such as Tokyo Opera City and Spiral Hall. “I was approached with an offer to do a largescale performance,” he recalls. “I rearranged all my pieces for live instruments. We would perform once a year, but as our repertoire increased, we ended up releasing an album and doing a nationwide tour. As a composer, I’m interested in the pitches and timbres of instruments, and pushing the limits of instruments. Field recordings are limitless, but with my current work I’m exploring expression inside limits. Still, when you have a large ensemble, then you have a lot of colors to work with.” Hasunuma says if he has the means, he wants to investigate as wide a range of expression as possible. Given that his music strikes home with fans both of avant-garde composers like Toru Takemitsu and poppier figures such as Ryuichi Sakamoto, and that his talent has been recognized with an elite fellowship, those means look increasingly within reach. “For me, music teaches us how to live,” he concludes. “I’m always learning from it, and it’s a way for me to know the world. It’s also my livelihood. I feel really lucky.” www.shutahasunuma.com

ART

THE DARK ARTS Enter Tim Burton’s world of gothic quirk

Blue Girl with Wine c.1997 28 x 22" Oil on canvas

BY C.B. LIDDELL Devil Dog 2014 15 x 16 x 15" Mixed media

There are verbal people and there are visual ones. The first come across as slicker and more persuasive; the latter often think in images and come across as shy. But when all is “said and drawn,” the visual person usually turns out to be significantly more imaginative, creative and innovative. OK, that’s enough cod psychology and bad puns for one art review; the point is, world-famous film director Tim Burton, the subject of the latest exhibition at the Mori Arts Center Gallery, is definitely a visual person par excellence. The man who gave us such memorable films as Edward Scissorhands, The Nightmare Before Christmas and Charlie and the Chocolate Factory clearly sees himself this way. “For me, drawings have always been a way of thinking—a form of communicating,” Burton told a press conference earlier this year. “I was never a very good speaker, talker, so I always found it was easier for me to communicate through drawing.” He divulged that he used to hide in the closet for most of the day when he worked as an animator at Disney. An art exhibition based on most other directors would be boring—but one based on the works of Burton is a different matter. The success of his movies hinges on their unusual look and innovative, eye-catching artwork and design. In an age when movies get too wordy, Burton’s oeuvre is a The Last of Its Kind 1994 20 x 16" Acrylic on canvas welcome antidote. This show is a compact, roadworthy version of a massively successful exhibit held at the grotesque. There are occasional elements the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 2009, of the banal and mundane—like the simplistic which drew 800,000 visitors. corporate feminist narrative of rich Victoriana in Despite being somewhat scaled down, it still Alice in Wonderland—but only because Burton’s includes some 500 items, from props and art- success has often almost unwillingly pushed him work—such as storyboards and designs connect- into the mainstream. However, even in his most ed to his hit movies—to drawings for unrealized tedious blockbusters like Batman or Planet of projects, comics he drew before his fame, travel the Apes, there are always touches of his unsketches and his “personal etchings.” derground aesthetic to “darken things up” a bit. So, what is the Burton Aesthetic? A mixture of The essence of Burton is a nerdy, shy quality of the gothic and the quirky, the carnivalesque and feeling not quite at home in a world that can’t live

Untitled (Edward Scissorhands) 1990 11 x 9" Pen and ink and colored pencil on paper

FOR ME, DRAWINGS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A WAY OF THINKING—A FORM OF COMMUNICATING.” up to its expansive and over-optimistic slogans, and of seeing everything in a twisted, ironic and darkly humorous way. It’s this sense and aesthetic that resonates deeply with modern audiences, and plays especially well to Japanese “goth-loli” sensibilities. Some of the visitors are guaranteed to be just as interesting an attraction as the artwork. Nov 1-Jan 4. ¥500-1,800. Mori Arts Center Gallery, 52F Roppongi Hills Mori Bldg, Minato-ku. Roppongi. www.tim-burton.jp

agenda

WATCH LIST Concerts POPULAR Hostess Club Weekender

The latest edition of promoter Hostess’s thrice-year indie rock fest is headlined by Kaiser Chiefs and Team Me. Nov 2-3. ¥13,900. Studio Coast. Shin-Kiba. Tel: 03-6809-1070. http://ynos.tv/ hostessclub/ CJ Ramone

Former bassist and sometimes vocalist of the Ramones goes solo. Nov 4, 7pm, ¥5,800 (adv) +1d. Club Quattro. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3477-8750. http://ltike.com Tom Vek Special Japan Show

Underground indie rock hero’s first live show in Japan. Nov 4, 4:30pm, ¥4,500 (adv)/ ¥5,000 (door). Tsutaya O-Nest. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3462-4420. http://alive.mu The Gazette

Visual-kei rockers. Nov 7, 6:30pm, ¥6,480 (adv) +1d. Club Citta. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-246-8888. www.clubcitta. co.jp Puffy

Energetic and eclectic J-pop duo. Nov 8, 6pm, ¥5,400 (adv) +1d. Ex Theater Roppongi. Roppongi or Nogizaka. www. ex-theater.com Kyary Pamyu Pamyu

Pop princess of super kawaii proportions. Nov 8, 5pm; Nov 9, 3pm, ¥6,500 (adv) +1d. Yoyogi National Gymnasium. Meiji-Jingumae. http://l-tike. com Back Drop Bomb

20th anniversary performance. Nov 9, 7pm, ¥3,000 (adv). Shelter. Shimokitazawa. Tel: 03-3444-6751. http:// backdropbomb.jp Mr. Big

‘80s rock group from Los Angeles. Nov 10, 7pm, ¥8,3009,300. Nippon Budokan. Kudanshita. http://meturl. com/big14 Nathan East

Founding member of the chart-topping contemporary jazz group Fourplay considered one of the most recorded bass players in the history of music. Nov 10, 11 & 13, 7 & 9:30pm, ¥6,800-8,800. Billboard Live. Roppongi. http://nathaneast. com Jason Mraz

Coffee-house singersongwriter. Nov 11, 7pm, ¥8,000 (adv) +1d. Bunkamura Orchard Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522. www. smash-jpn.com Rick Astley

English singer-songwriter returns to rickroll Japan. Nov 12-Nov 13. 7pm, ¥7,800¥8,800. Bunkamura Orchard Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-53539522. http://meturl.com/ astley2014

1EyEDMan

Tokyo-based group with catchy Brit-pop/rock tunes and lyrics. Nov 14, 7pm, ¥3,000. Tsutaya O-Nest. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3462-4420. http://l-tike. com/ Knot Fest Japan

Slipknot, Limp Bizkit, Korn and others. Nov 15, noon; Nov 16, noon, ¥14,000 (1 day, adv)/ ¥27,000 (adv, 2days). Makuhari Messe. Kaihin-Makuhari. www.knotfestjapan.com 9mm Parabellum Bullet

Post-hardcore band from Yokohama. Nov 15, 6:30pm, ¥3,800 (adv) +1d. Club Citta. Kawasaki. Tel: 050-55330888. www.clubcitta.co.jp Rock in Opposition Japan 2014

Originally a movement of progressive bands united in their opposition to the music industry that refused to recognize their music, featuring artists Picchio Dal Pozzo and Present. Nov 15-16. 3pm, ¥14,000 (seated)/ ¥10,500 (standing). O-East. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3444-6751. www.rockinopposition-japan. com The Ben Folds Orchestra Experience

Ben Folds plays his pop hits arranged for orchestral performance. Nov 17, 7pm; Nov 18, 7pm, ¥10,000-11,000. Bunkamura Orchard Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522. meturl.com/ben14 The Inspector Cluzo

Gasconha Rock Tour 2014 in Japan. Nov 20, 7pm, ¥5,600 (adv) +1d. Club Quattro. Shibuya. Tel: 03-34446751. http://meturl.com/ theinspectorcluzo2014 Zettai Blend No.5

DieByForty, Rock n'Flow, MissTress and AstroAttack (Kobe). Nov 22, 7pm, . Akasaka Crawfish. Akasaka. Tel: 03-3584-2496. http://crawfish. jp Yes

English prog rock with symphonic undertones. Nov 23, 5pm; Nov 24, 5pm; Nov 25, 7pm, ¥8,000-9,000. Tokyo Dome City Hall. Suidobashi. Tel: 0570-09-3333. http:// meturl.com/yes14 The Three Degrees

American female vocal group responsible for the major hit record “When Will I See You Again.” Nov 25-29, various times, ¥8,000-10,500. Cotton Club. Tokyo. http://meturl. com/threedegrees2014 Aqua Timez

J-rock group that has penned several anime and drama opening tunes. Nov 30, 5pm, ¥5,500 (adv). Tokyo International Forum Hall A. Yurakucho. www.aquatimez. com Tomoyasu Hotei

Japanese rock icon. Nov 30, 5:30pm, ¥7,800 (adv) +1d. NHK

Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-34651751. http://l-tike.com Loft Music & Culture Festival

A Flood of Circle, Radio Caroline, The Birthday and more. Nov 30, 1:30pm, ¥3,969 (adv) +1d. Club Citta. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-2468888. www.loft-prj.co.jp/ loftfes

Billboard Live. Roppongi. Tel: 03-3405-1133. www. billboard-live.com Carlos Kanno Tropical Superjam

Latin jazz. Nov 2, 5:30 & 7:30pm, ¥4,500-24,000. Motion Blue. Bashamichi. Tel: 045-226-1919. www. motionblue.co.jp Platina Jazz Orchestra

Country Yard

Japanese punk-rock group who have been supporting acts for bands No Use For A Name, The Get Up Kids and Rufio. Dec 6, 1pm, ¥2,800(adv) +1d. Yokohama Bay Hall. Motomachi-Chukagai. Tel: 03-3444-6751. http://meturl. com/countryyard2014 Art Garfunkel

Folk artist, poet and one half of legendary duo Simon & Garfunkel. Dec 10, 7pm; Dec 12, 7pm, ¥9,00010,000. Shibuya Public Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 0570-093333. http://meturl.com/ garfunk14 Man with a Mission

Wolves in men's clothing play rap rock. Dec 20, 5pm, ¥4,700 (adv) +1d. Saitama Super Arena. Saitama-Shintoshin. www.creativeman.co.jp H Zett M

Japanese keyboardist and producer formerly part of the jazz instrumental band Pe'z. Dec 20, 2 & 7pm, ¥4,000. Mori no Hall. Hashimoto. Tel: 042-742-9999. www. worldapart.co.jp/hzettm/ Glory Gospel Singers

New York-based ensemble who have performed at Carnegie Hall and have appeared on stage with Diana Ross, Whitney Houston and Aretha Franklin. Dec 21, 2 & 6pm, ¥2,000-7,000. Shibuya Public Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3402-9911. www.tate.jp

Presented by Rasmus Faber. Nov 4, 7 & 9:30pm; Nov 5, 7 & 9:30pm, ¥6,500-8,500. Billboard Live. Roppongi. Tel: 03-3405-1133. www. billboard-live.com Final Japan tour. Nov 6, 7 & 9pm, ¥4,200-22,800. Motion Blue. Bashamichi. Tel: 045-226-1919. www. motionblue.co.jp Seiji Igusa

Acoustic guitar solo live. Nov 8, 2 & 3pm, ¥2,000. Softwind. Roppongi. Tel: 03-68087337. www.softwind.jp Akane Matsumoto Meets Hideaki Kanazawa

Afternoon jazz live. Nov 9, 2 & 3pm, ¥2,500. Softwind. Roppongi. Tel: 03-68087337. www.softwind.jp Tokyo Crossover/Jazz Festival

With Kyoto Jazz Massive's 20th Anniversary Special Live Set featuring Navasha Daya, Vanessa Freeman and others. Nov 9, 1-10pm, ¥8,000-9,000 (adv) +1d/ ¥8,500-9,500 (door) +1d. Ex Theater Roppongi. Roppongi or Nogizaka. Tel: 03-5481-6092. www. tokyocrossoverjazzfestival. jp/2014/ Jiro Yoshida

Japan tour 2014. Nov 10, 6:30 & 9pm, ¥6,800-9,000. Cotton Club. Tokyo. Tel: 03-32151555. www.cottonclubjapan. co.jp José Feliciano

Japanese sound artist whose music is concerned primarily with sound in a variety of “raw” states, often using frequencies at the edges of the range of human hearing. Dec 21, 5 & 7:30pm, one performance ¥3,000 (adv)/ ¥3,500 (door), both performances ¥5,000. Laforet Museum. Meiji-Jingumae. Tel: 03-3475-0411. www. laforet.ne.jp

Puerto Rican virtuoso guitarist, singer and composer known for “Feliz Navidad.” Nov 11-13. 7pm & 9:30pm, ¥8,800. Blue Note. Omotesando. Tel: 03-5485-0088. http://meturl. com/feliciano2014

Japanese ska band who has performed with legendary musicians such as Prince Buster and The Skatalites. Dec 23, 5:30pm, ¥3,500 (adv)/ ¥3,800 (door) +1d. Duo Music Exchange. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3444-6751. www. skaflames.jp JAZZ/WORLD The Vanguard Jazz Orchestra

Big band jazz. Oct 30, 7 & 9:30pm; Oct 31, 7 & 9:30pm; Nov 1, 6 & 9pm, ¥6,800-8,800.

Nelson Rangell

Smooth jazz. Nov 12, 6:30 & 9pm; Nov 13, 6:30 & 9pm; Nov 14, 6:30 & 9pm, ¥7,0008,000. Cotton Club. Tokyo. Tel: 03-3215-1555. www. cottonclubjapan.co.jp Taeko Moriyama

Japanese jazz drummer. Nov 14, 7 & 9pm, ¥4,200-22,800. Motion Blue. Bashamichi. Tel: 045-226-1919. www. motionblue.co.jp Toshihiro Nakanishi and Sumire Kuribayashi

Jazz instruments. Nov 15, 7 & 8pm, ¥3,200. Softwind. Roppongi. Tel: 03-68087337. www.softwind.jp Acoustic Life Op.1

Album release national tour.

Showa University of Music. Shinyurigaoka. Tel: 044-9531121. Original Pentabox

Amy Hanaiali’i

Singer-songwriter and Hawaii’s top-selling female vocalist of all time. Nov 18, 6:30pm; Nov 19, 9pm, ¥6,500-8,500. Cotton Club. Tokyo. Tel: 03-32151555. http://meturl.com/ amy2014 Jim Hall Tribute Project

New album and release concert. Nov 19, 7 & 9pm, ¥4,200-22,800. Motion Blue. Bashamichi. Tel: 045-2261919. www.motionblue.co.jp

Tommy Campbell

Ryoji Ikeda

The Ska Flames

Nov 16, 6:30 & 7:45pm, ¥2,500. Softwind. Roppongi. Tel: 03-6808-7337. www. softwind.jp

Natalie Cole

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 22, 2pm, ¥4,00010,000. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp Winger/Slaughter

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 22, 5pm; Nov 23, 5pm, ¥9,500. Club Citta. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-2468888. www.clubcitta.co.jp Hiromi

Piano solo live. Nov 23, 2 & 3pm, ¥2,000. Softwind. Roppongi. Tel: 03-68087337. www.softwind.jp Hiroko Kokubu with Fried Pride

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 24, 2pm, ¥3,500. Plazasol Kawasaki. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-874-8501. www. plazasol.jp Koyama Taro Group

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 25, 7pm, ¥3,500. Plazasol Kawasaki. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-874-8501. www. plazasol.jp Kazumi Watanabe

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 26, 7pm, ¥3,500. Plazasol Kawasaki. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-874-8501. www. plazasol.jp Yukiarimasa and Hara Tomonao

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 27, 7pm, ¥3,500. Plazasol Kawasaki. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-874-8501. www. plazasol.jp Senzoku Get Jazz Orchestra

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 28, 6:30pm, ¥3,0005,000. Senzoku Gakuen University. Mizonokuchi. Tel: 044-856-2727. http://meturl. com/esenzoku

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 30, 2pm, ¥3,000-5,000. Showa University of Music. Shinyurigaoka. Tel: 044-9531121. Tokyo-Manila Jazz & Arts Festival

Thanksgiving Jazz Concert for the benefit of young musicians’s education and scholarship funds, with Tetsuro Kawashima, Tots Tolentino and others. Nov 30, 6pm, ¥2,000. Akasaka Civic Center Civic Hall. AoyamaIchome. Tel: 5413-2711. http:// tmjaf.tokyo/ Blue Mountain Boys

Classic country and western and bluegrass. Every third Sat, 6:30 & 7:30pm, free, Cafe Sepia. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3406-1300. www. nagaremono.com/sepia CLASSICAL Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall & Tokyo Symphony Orchestra

102nd masterpieces complete works. Nov 1, 2pm, ¥3,0006,000. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp Music Academy Tokyo 77th Message Concert

Performed by The Pupils and Lecturers of Music Academy Tokyo. Nov 2, 1pm, Free (Advance application). Suntory Hall. Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall AAR 35th Anniversary Charity Concert

Mezzo-soprano Mihoko Fujimura’s special recital. Nov 3, 2pm, ¥5,000. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-53539999. http://operacity.jp The Silk Road Ensemble with Yo-Yo Ma

15th anniversary. Nov 4, 7pm, ¥7,000-22,000. Suntory Hall. Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall NTT east NHK Symphony Orchestra Concert

Conducted by Toshiaki Umeda. Nov 5, 7pm, ¥3,000-5,000. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http:// operacity.jp Rainer Kühl

Bebel Gilberto

Brazilian popular singer often associated with bossa nova. Nov 28, 7 & 9:30pm; Nov 29-30, 5 & 8pm, ¥8,500. Blue Note. Omotesando. Tel: 03-5485-0088. http://meturl. com/gilberto2014 Montreux Jazz Solo Piano Competition Final

Montreux Jazz Festival 2014. Nov 29, 2pm, Free.

Violin recital. Nov 6, 7pm, ¥3,600-4,000. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp The 93rd Global Classic Concert

Opera Arias. Nov 7, 7pm, ¥3,000-5,000. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-53539999. http://operacity.jp

hot tickets

UNTIL NOV 24 Singin’ in the Rain

Musical adapted from the 1952 movie of the same name. Until Nov 24, various times, ¥6,500-13,000. Theatre Orb. Shibuya. Tel: 0570-029999. http://singinintherain.jp/en/ Tickets on sale now

Disney on Classic

Enjoy Disney’s animation and music performed by an orchestra and Broadway vocalists, with songs from The Lion King and Frozen. Nov 7, 7pm; Nov 8, 2 & 7pm; Nov 9, 2pm, ¥5,200-8,300. Tokyo International Forum Hall A. Yurakucho. Tel: 03-34093345. http://meturl.com/ disneyonclassic Ikuyo Nakamichi

Piano recital. Nov 8, 2pm, ¥1,500-4,000. Saitama Arts Theater. Yonohonmachi. Tel: 0570-064-939. www.saf.or.jp. Feb 8, 2pm, ¥3,000-4,000. Suntory Hall. Roppongiitchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhall

NOV 28-JAN 25 Attack on Titan

Featuring the Japanese manga series by Hajime Isayama, with real-scale Titans and a 360-degree experience of Isayama’s world. Nov 28-Jan 25, ¥1,000-2,000. Ueno Royal Museum. Ueno. www.ueno-mori.org Tickets on sale now

Piano recital. Nov 8, 2pm, ¥5,000-7,000. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp

Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall

Kawasaki Shinkin Bank Presents

Leo Nucci

Lunchtime and night concert. Nov 14, 12:10 & 7pm, ¥500. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp The National Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine

Conducted by Volodymyr Sirenko. Nov 15, 2pm, ¥4,0008,000. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jp Performed by College of Music. Nov 16, 3pm; Nov 24, 3pm; Dec 6, 3pm; Dec 7, 3pm, ¥1,000-3,000. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp

The Ninth Symphony

Conducted by Zubin Mehta, performed by The Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, the Béjart Ballet Company and the Tokyo Ballet Company. Nov 8, 7pm; Nov 9, 2 & 6pm, ¥4,00039,000. NHK Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-3791-8888. www. nbs.or.jp Hisako Kawamura

Piano recital. Nov 9, 2pm, ¥2,000-6,000. Mori no Hall. Hashimoto. Tel: 042-775-3811. www.hall-net. or.jp/02hashimoto Le Velvets

Classic elegance in Opera City. Nov 9, 3pm, ¥6,000-9,800. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http:// operacity.jp Artists Salon Concert

Series Volume 190. Nov 10, 7:30pm, ¥4,000-5,000. Suntory Hall Blue Rose. Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall Eri Tsuchiya Piano Recital

Annual recital with Steinway. Nov 10, 7pm, ¥3,500 (general)/¥6,000 (for two). Matsuo Hall. Yurakucho or Ginza. Tel: 03-3539-1845. http://meturl.com/hmatsuohall Orchestra dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Roma

Conducted by Antonio Pappano. Nov 11, 7pm, ¥9,000-33,000. Suntory Hall. Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall Chie Mori

Piano recital. Nov 12, 7pm, ¥3,500. Tokyo Opera City Recital Hall. Shinjuku or Hatsudai. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http://operacity.jp

The Ben Folds Orchestra Experience

Japan tour 2014. Nov 17, 7pm; Nov 18, 7pm, ¥10,000-11,000. Bunkamura Orchard Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522. www.bunkamura.co.jp Himiko

Memories of the Sun Goddess. Nov 18, 7pm, ¥5,000-9,000. Suntory Hall. Roppongiitchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhall Volume 108 performed by Satoko Kawagoe. Nov 20, 12:15pm, ¥500. Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-53912111. www.geigeki.jp/english Chisako Takashima

12 Violinist: Colors. Nov 21, 6:30pm, ¥5,500-6,000. Suntory Hall. Roppongiitchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl.com/suntoryhall NHK Tokyo Children Chorus

Subscription concert no.43. Nov 22, 6pm, ¥3,000-3,500. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http:// operacity.jp Yamato String Quartet

20th anniversary concert. Nov 23, 7pm, ¥4,000. Suntory Hall. Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall The Horn Quartet Concert 2014

Performed by Mayumi Anzuchi, Tsutomu Isohata, Jo Kishigami,and Takeshi Hidaka. Nov 25, 7pm, ¥2,500-3,000. Tokyo Opera City Recital Hall. Shinjuku or Hatsudai. Tel: 03-5353-9999. http:// operacity.jp

Gaetano Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore. Nov 13, 6:30pm, ¥5,000. Suntory Hall.

Subscription concert No.1795. Nov 26-27, 7pm, ¥3,600-8,800. Conducted by Charles Dutoit. Dec 17, 7pm, ¥3,600-8,800. Suntory Hall.

DEC 8-10 Freddy Cole

American jazz singer and pianist and brother of musician Nat King Cole. Dec 8, midnight; Dec 9, midnight; Dec 10, midnight, ¥7,500-9,500. Cotton Club. Tokyo. Tel: 03-3215-1555. http://meturl.com/cole2014 Tickets on sale now

NOV 8 (SAT)-16 (SUN)

Michiyoshi Inoue

With New Japan Philharmonic and violinist Kyoko Takezawa performing Brahms. Nov 29, 3pm, ¥2,000-6,000. Saitama Kaikan. Urawa. www.saf.or.jp The 20th PROST Symphony Orchestra

Regular concert. Nov 30, 2pm, ¥800-1,000. Muza Kawasaki Symphony Hall. Kawasaki. Tel: 044-520-0200. www. kawasaki-sym-hall.jp Kanagawa Phil Fresh Concert

Conducted by Shigeo Genda. Dec 1, 2pm, ¥1,000-5,000. Yokohama Minato Mirai Hall. Minatomirai. Tel: 045-6822020. www.yaf.or.jp

NOV 29-30 Tokyo Vegefood Festa

A food court style annual event with around 100 food stands and shops providing various vegefood related foods and goods, including environmentally friendly products. Nov 29-30, 10am-4:30pm, free. Yoyogi Park. Harajuku. http:// meturl.com/vegefood2014

The New Matrix Bar

BALLET: THE SLEEPING BEAUTY

Tchaikovsky’s grand ballet performed by the National Ballet of Japan. Nov 8, 9, 13, 15&16, 2pm; Nov 11, 6:30pm, ¥3,240-16,200. New National Theatre Tokyo. Hatsudai (Keio New Line). www.nntt. jac.go.jp/english/ (door)/¥2,500 (under 25). Theater X. Ryogoku. Tel: 03-5624-1181. http:// ensemblesonne.com L.A. Dance Project

Matrix Friday. Old-school hip-hop, west side, south side, all mix: DJ Ykk and more. From 6pm, ¥1,000 (after 11:30pm). Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jp Womb

Circo Loco. House: DJ Satoshi Otsuki and more. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Tresvibes. House, techno: DJs Djulz, Otuski, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www. womb.co.jp SATURDAY 1 Ageha

Dj Mag Party. All mix, EDM: DJs Dantz, Adam Saville, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Shinkiba. www.ageha.com

Stage

Modern dance by artistic collective based in L.A. Nov 8, 3pm; Nov 9, 3pm, ¥2,000¥6,000 (gen) / ¥3,600-¥5,400 (members). Saitama Arts Theater. Yonohonmachi. Tel: 0570-064-939. www.saf.or.jp

Wonderful State Q

Swan Lake

Daikanyama Unit

Butoh dancer Temmetsu escapes into his imaginary kingdom. Nov 1, 7:30pm; Nov 2, 1:30 & 6:30pm, ¥2,900 (adv)/ ¥3,200 (door). Theater Samsa. Asagaya. Tel: 090-8516-6005. www. temmetsu.com

Performed by the Bolshoi Ballet and the Bolshoi Orchestra. Nov 20, 7pm; Nov 24, 5pm; Nov 26, 1 & 7pm, ¥6,300-¥21,000 (members) ¥7,000-¥22,000 (gen). Bunkamura Orchard Hall. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5353-9522. www.bunkamura.co.jp

Stones Throw. Hip-hop DJs Knxwledge, Mndsgn, etc: Live: Pyramid Vritra. From 11pm, ¥4,000. Daikanyama. www. unit-tokyo.com

Bilingual Comedy Anniversary Show

The Pirates of Tokyo Bay celebrate four years in Tokyo. Nov 16, 7:30pm, ¥2,500. SuperDeluxe. Roppongi. Tel: 03-5412-0515. http://meturl. com/pirates2014 The Csárdás Princess

An operetta in three acts by Emmerich Kalman conducted by Keiko Mitsuhashi. Nov 22, 3pm; Nov 23-24, 2pm; Nov 26, 2pm, ¥2,000-18,000. Nissay Theatre. Hibiya. Tel: 03-3234-9999. www. nissaytheatre.or.jp Once

Tony Award-winning musical about true love found on the streets of Dublin. Until Dec 14, various times, ¥13,000. Ex Theater Roppongi. Roppongi or Nogizaka. www.once-musical.jp

La Bayadère

Performed by the Bolshoi Ballet and the Bolshoi Orchestra. Dec 3, 6:30pm; Dec 4, noon & 6:30pm, ¥6,300¥21,000 (members) ¥7,000¥22,000 (gen). Tokyo Bunka Kaikan. Ueno. Tel: 03-38282111. www.t-bunka.jp

Clubbing FRIDAY 31

Verdi’s operatic tale about politics, religion and a father who steals his son’s girlfriend. Nov 27, 6:30pm; Nov 30, 2pm; Dec 3, 6:30pm; Dec 6, 2pm; Dec 9, 2pm, ¥3,240-21,600. New National Theatre Tokyo. Hatsudai. Tel: 03-53529999. www.nntt.jac.go.jp/ english

Dance Unsettled Mind

Contemporary dance performance. Nov 2, 8pm; Nov 3, 4pm, ¥3,000 (adv)/¥3,500

Air

Domino. House, techno: DJs Voigtmann, Den, etc. Live: Radiq. From 10pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.com

Origami

Howl. Electro: DJs Tigerskin, Break 3000, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,500. Omotesando. Tel: 03-6434-0968. http://meturl. com/origamiclub

Asobinite. All mix: DJs Nakata, Verbal, etc. From 8pm, ¥4,500. Shinkiba. www.ageha.com Air

Halloween Party. Techno DJs Ishino, A Mochi, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,000. Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.com Halloween. DJs Prefuse 73, Emma, etc. From 11pm, ¥4,000. Daikanyama. www. unit-tokyo.com Ginza Roots Tokyo

Tokyo Locos Halloween Party. From midnight, (m) ¥3,500 w/2d, (f) free. Ginza-itchome. Tel: 03-55799330. http://meturl.com/ locoshalloween2014 Origami

Mind Off. Techno: DJs Tobias, Stefano Lotti, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,500. Omotesando. Tel: 03-6434-0968. http://meturl. com/origamiclub

SCREAM!! Halloween Party 2014

Veteran party vampires and an unearthly flock of DJs spin cutting-edge Disco, House and Electro for Tokyo’s most dangerous crowd. DJs: Force of Nature (Mule Music), Gonno (WC, Mekur, International Feel), MXRLX (Blackmaps/ Mild Bunch), and DSKE’s Same Fitzgerald (Onigiri Discotheque) and TROPI (Sunset Driver). Nov 1, 11pm, ¥2,500/¥3,500 w/o costume. WWW. B1F Rise Bldg, 13-17 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. Shibuya. Tel: 03-54587685. http://www-shibuya.jp *Note: Date was listed erroneously last issue 10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/1d, (f)¥3,000 w/1d. Shibuya. www.vision-tokyo.com The Room

Em. Nu classic: DJs Sazanami, Cbtek, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,000 w/1d. Shibuya. www. theroom.jp Womb

W Big Halloween Party. EDM, house: DJs Taku, Daishi Dance, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jp THURSDAY 6 Air

Ruby Room

Perugia. DJs Asyl Cahier, Danda, etc. From 11pm, ¥1,500 w/1d. Shibuya. www. rubyroomtokyo.com

Bootylicious. Hip-hop DJs Iku, Matsunaga, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,000 w/1d. Shibuya. www. air-tokyo.com T2

Sound Museum Vision

Hyper Society. Electro, house: DJs Tanaka, Ayanokoji, etc. From 10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/1d, (f)¥3,000 w/1d. Shibuya. www.vision-tokyo.com

Ageha

Daikanyama Unit Don Carlo

NOV 1 (SAT), 11PM

Shibuya Mixx. EDM: DJs Shu, Vivid, etc. From 10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/2d, (f)¥2,500 w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-54288692. www.t2-shibuya.com

Baritone recital. Nov 28, 7pm, ¥8,000-19,000. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Hatsudai or Shinjuku. Tel: 03-53539999. http://operacity.jp

Lunchtime Organ Concert

NHK Symphony Orchestra Suntory Hall Opera Academy Performance

Japan’s largest natural wine festival. Nov 30, 12-3:30pm & 4:30-8pm, ¥7,000 (adv)/ ¥8,000 (door). Ebis303. Ebisu. Tel: 03-5771-8374. http://festivin.com/ Tickets on sale now

Roppongi-itchome. Tel: 0570-55-0017. http://meturl. com/suntoryhall

Orchestra Festival 2014 Yurian'na-Avudeewa

NOV 30 Festivin 2014

for free

Happiness. World mix: DJs Various DJs. From 10pm, (m)¥2,500 w/2d, (f)¥1,500 w/2d. Shibuya. Tel: 03-54288692. www.t2-shibuya.com The Room

The New Matrix Bar

Saturday Night Fever. Hip-hop, R&B, reggae: DJ Ykk and more. From 6pm, ¥1,000 (after 10pm). Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jp The Room

Exchange. Jazz, boogie: DJs Kawasaki, Sato: Live: Jazz Collective. From 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d. Shibuya. www. theroom.jp

El Amor. Disco, boogie: DJ Nao Endo. From midnight, ¥1,000. Shibuya. www.theroom.jp Womb

Pop Girls. EDM, Top 40: DJs Mamicho, Taiyou, etc. From 10pm, (m)¥1,500, (f)free. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jp FRIDAY 7

Womb

Ageha

06s. Drum‘n’bass: DJs Futurebound, Aki, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jp

Agepa. All mix: DJs U5, Hokuto, etc. From 11pm, (m)¥3,000, (f)free. Shinkiba. www. ageha.com

SUNDAY 2

Air

Danny Krivit. House: DJs Danny Krivit, Dazzle Drums, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.com Sound Museum Vision

Classics. Hip-hop: DJ Large Professor and more. From

Salon. House, EDM: DJs Rasmus Faber, Ami, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,000. Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.com The Room

Breakthrough. Hip-hop: DJs Jin, Ladi Dadi, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d. Shibuya. www. theroom.jp

Womb

EDM Music Festival. EDM: DJs Marc Panther, Kick Off, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jp

Exhibitions AKASAKA/ROPPONGI

NOV 8 (SAT)-23 (SUN)

applied fine arts and writing. Oct 31-Dec 7, 10am-6pm, closed Tue, ¥700-1,200. Masterpieces from the Kunsthaus Zurich. Japanese exhibition of one of the best art museums in Switzerland boasting a world-class collection of modern art. Until Dec 15, 10am-6pm, closed Tue, ¥800-1,600. Open Wed-Thu, Sat-Mon 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-8pm, closed Tue. 7-22-2 Roppongi. Nogizaka. www. nact.jp GINZA/KYOBASHI/ TOKYO

Fragment of Butterfly 2014

Kai Goto’s art is born from the concept of reconstructing shattered fragments into new and vital pieces of art. In her third exhibition, she expresses the cyclic process of material by depicting decay and revival. Nov 8-23, free. Open daily noon-7pm. 3F Ogura Bldg, 2-12-4 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Nogizaka. Tel: 03-64197229. www.nanatasu.jp 21_21 Design Sight

The Fab Mind: Hints of the Future in a Shifting World. Focuses on the aspirations and activities of those who seek to understand and resolve social issues through design. Until Feb 1, 11am-8pm, closed Tue, ¥500-1,000. Open Mon & Wed-Sun 11am-8pm, closed Tue. 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Nogizaka. Tel: 03-3475-2121. www.2121designsight.jp Mori Art Museum

Lee Mingwei and His Relations. Mixed media artist with an interactive style. The completion of his works relies on the participation of his audience. Until Jan 4, ¥500-1,500. Jacob Kirkegaard. Sound and video installation on Fukushima by Danish sound artist. Until Jan 4, 10am-10pm, Tuesdays 10am-5pm, ¥1,500 (general) / ¥1,000 (uni/high school) / ¥500 (4 years-junior high). Open Mon & Wed-Sun 10am-10pm, Tue 10am-5pm. 6-10-1 Roppongi. Roppongi. Tel: 03-5777-8600. www.mori.art.museum Nanatasu Gallery

Hitomi Onuki: Nowhere. Hitomi Onuki’s work connects pieces of glass to evoke the beauty of the maimed. In this exhibition, she uses the idea of the mirror as a boundary to create a fragile and ephemeral world of glass wolves. Until Nov 1, 12-7pm, free. Open daily noon-7pm. 2-12-4 Nishi-Azabu. Nogizaka. Tel: 03-6419-7229. www.nanatasu.jp Sen-Oku Hakuko Kan

The Beauty of Chanoyu Kettles. Explore 400 years of Chanoyu Kettle history. Nov 1-Dec 14, 10am-4:30pm, closed Mon, ¥500-800. 1-5-1 Roppongi-itchome, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0032. Roppongiitchome. Tel: 03-5777-8600. Suntory Museum of Art

Koyasan 1200th Anniversary: Treasures of the Sacred Mountain. Figures carved by some of Japan’s most celebrated Buddhist sculptors, including Unkei and Kaikei. Until Dec 7, ¥800-1,300. Open Wed-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun-Mon & hols 10am-6pm, closed Tue. 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Roppongi. www.suntory. jp/sma The National Art Center, Tokyo

The Japan Fine Arts Exhibition. Featuring Japanese and Western paintings, sculptures,

Bridgestone Museum of Art

Willem de Kooning: From the John and Kimiko Powers Collection. Dutch-born American artist and one of the founders of abstract expressionism. Until Jan 12, ¥500-800. Open Tue-Sun & hols 10am-8pm, closed Mon. 1-10-1 Kyobashi, Chuo-ku. Tokyo. Tel: 03-5777-8600. www. bridgestone-museum.gr.jp Ginza Graphic Gallery

Persona 1965. A look back at the 1965 Persona graphic design exhibition with artists Kiyoshi Awazu, Shigeo Fukuda and others. Nov 5-27, 11am-7pm, until 6pm on Sat, closed Sun & hols, free. Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm, closed Sun & hols. 1F Ginza Bldg, 7-7-2 Ginza. Ginza. http://meturl.com/ ginzagraphicgallery Idemitsu Museum of Arts

Ninsei, Kenzan and Crafts of Kyoto. Featuring the ceramic works of artists Nonomura Ninsei and Ogata Kenzan. Until Dec 21, Mon-Thu 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-7pm, closed Mon, ¥700-1,000. Open Tue-Thu 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-7pm, closed Mon. 9F Teigeki Bldg, 3-1-1 Marunouchi. Tokyo. www.idemitsu.co.jp/museum Megumi Ogita Gallery Showcase

Sadie Rebecca Starnes: Given. American painter whose works are influenced by family histories of American natives and Native Americans, diasporic literature and alizarin crimson. Nov 14-29, 12pm-7pm, closed Mon, Sun and hols, free. Witnesses of Beauty. Paola Masi’s collection of ceramic works. Until Nov 1, 12-7pm, closed Sun, Mon & hols, free. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, closed Mon & Sun. 4F, 5-4-14 Ginza. Ginza. Tel: Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.megumiogita.com Nagoya Commerce and Industry Center

The Mirror Ginza. The true nature of the coming era reflected in artwork. Until Nov 9, 1-9pm, ¥1,000 (lecture is extra) / reservation only. 1-9pm. 4-3-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Ginza-itchome. National Film Center

Le Monde Enchanté de Jacques Demy. Behind-the-scenes photographs from works by French New Wave director known for The Umbrellas of Cherbourg and other films. Until Dec 14, ¥70-210. Open Tue-Sun 11am-6:30pm, closed Mon. 3-7-6 Kyobashi. Kyobashi. Tel: 03-5777-8600. www.momat. go.jp The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo

Hishida Shunso: A Retrospective. Works by a Meiji period painter and innovator of nihonga. (Note: In the Sep 5-18 edition of Metropolis, this exhibition was erroneously listed as ¥300-1,400. It

should have read ¥400-1,400 as below.) Until Nov 3, ¥400-1,400. Celadon Now: Techniques and Beauty Handed Down from Southern Sung to Today. Modern ceramic art. Until Nov 24, ¥300-900. Narahara Ikko: Domains. One of the leading photographers of post-war Japan. Domains focuses on human beings in a monastery in Hokkaido and a female prison in Wakayama, both isolated from the external world. Nov 18-Mar 1, 10am-5pm, closed Mon, ¥130-430. Open Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-8pm. 3-1 Kitanomarukoen. Takebashi. Tel: 03-5777-8600. www.momat. go.jp HARAJUKU/AOYAMA Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art

Utagawa Kunisada: 150th Anniversary of His Death. Collection of prints by one of the great ukiyo-e masters. Until Nov 24, ¥700-1,000. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-5:30pm, closed Mon. 1-10-10 Jingumae. Harajuku. www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp SHIBUYA/EBISU Bunkamura: The Museum

The Dream of French Paintings: From Impressionism to Ecole de Paris. Select works by Monet, Chagall, Cézanne, Foujita and more. Until Dec 14, ¥500-1,400. Open Mon-Thu & Sun 10am-7pm, Fri-Sat 10am-9pm. 2-24-1 Dogenzaka. Shibuya. Tel: 03-5777-8600. www.bunkamura.co.jp SHINJUKU/IKEBUKURO Hiromart Gallery

Natural Base. Oil and watercolor exhibition by Claudia Ahlering. Until Nov 30, 1-7pm. Open Wed-Sun 1-7pm, closed Mon-Tue. 1-30-7 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku. Edogawabashi. www.hiromartgallery.com Kenji Taki Gallery

Nobuyuki Tanaka. Recipient of the 18th MOA Mokichi Okada Prize Craft Arts Section Award. Until Nov 8, 12-7pm, Free. Open Tue-Sat noon-7pm, closed Sun-Mon & hols. 3-18-2 Nishi-Shinjuku. Hatsudai. www.kenjitaki.com Nakamuraya Salon Museum of Art

Born Here, Yet to Be Born Here. Showcasing the various artists who have gathered at the Nakamuraya Salon over the years. Until Feb 15, 10:30am7pm, closed Tue, ¥300. 10:30am-7pm, closed Tue. 3-26-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Shinjuku. www. nakamuraya.co.jp/museum Sompo Japan Museum of Art

Normandie: L'Estuaire de la Seine—L'Invention d'un Paysage. Paintings by Eugène Boudin, Raoul Dufy and others. Until Nov 9, ¥700-1,100. Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm, closed Mon. 42F Sompo Japan Bldg. 1-26-1 Nishi-Shinjuku. Shinjuku. Tel: 03-54058686. www.sjnk-museum. org/en Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery

Zaha Hadid. Iraqi-British architect, and first female recipient of the Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2004. Until Dec 23, 11am-7pm, closed Mon, ¥1,000-1,200. Open Tue-Thu 11am-7pm, Fri-Sat 11am-8pm. 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku. Hatsudai. http://operacity.jp

UENO Edo-Tokyo Museum

Tokyo Olympics and the Bullet Train. In commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games. Until Nov 16, ¥670-1340. Open Tue-Fri & Sun 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat 9:30am-7:30pm, closed Mon & hols. 1-4-1 Yokoami. Ryogoku. Tel: 03-3626-9974. www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp

Ryoko Kumakura, and Kinoko portraying how the world each artist inhabits meet, intersect and merge, creating an interesting environment for expression. Until Nov 8, Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, closed Sun & Mon, free. Sansho Bldg. 3-2-9 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 103-0027. Nihonbashi. Tel: 03-3275-1019. www.masatakacontemporary.com/en Miraikan

National Museum of Nature and Science

Hikari Exhibition. Featuring the relationship between light and space, the earth and humans, showcasing the beautiful world of light. Until Feb 22, 9am-5pm, until 8pm on Fri, closed Mon, ¥600-1,600. Open Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 9am-5pm, Fri 9am-8pm, closed Mon. 7-20 Ueno Park. Ueno. Tel: 03-3822-0111. www.kahaku.go.jp The National Museum of Western Art

Ferdinand Hodler: Towards Rhythmic Images. Paintings by one of the best-known Swiss artists of the 19th century. Until Jan 12, ¥800-1,600. Open daily 9:30am-5:30pm. 7-7 Ueno Park. Ueno. www.nmwa.go.jp Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum

The Renaissance Golden Age: From Botticelli to Bronzino. About 70 works by the great Renaissance masters, courtesy of the famed Uffizi Gallery in Florence. Until Dec 14, ¥1,000-1,600. Uffizi Gallery. An exhibition tracing the development of Florentine art from the 15th to the 16th century through works from the collection of the world-famed Uffizi Gallery. Until Dec 14, 9:30am-5:30pm, closed Mon, ¥800-1,600. 8-36 Ueno Park. Ueno. www.tobikan.jp Tokyo National Museum

National Treasures of Japan. Artifacts gathered across various genres and periods. Until Dec 7, ¥900-1,600.Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm. 13-9 Ueno Park. Ueno. www. tnm.jp Ueno Royal Museum

Hokusai: From the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. One of Japan’s most famous ukiyo-e artists of the Edo period. Until Nov 9, ¥400-1,500. Open Sat-Thu 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-8pm. 1-2 Ueno Park. Ueno. www.ueno-mori.org

Shake! Art Exhibition. Digital art produced by TeamLab, an “Ultra Technologist” organization that merges science, technology, art and design with an interactive Future Park. Nov 29-Mar 1, 10am-5pm, closed Tue, ¥900-1,800. 2-3-6, Aomi, Koto-ku. Telecom Center. Tel: 03-3570-9151. www.miraikan. jst.go.jp/en The Container

Change Room. Canadian artist Robert Waters’ exhibition. Until Nov 16, Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm, closed Tue, free. Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun & hols 10am-8pm, closed Tue. Hills Daikanyama, 1-8-30 Kami-Meguro. Naka-Meguro. www. the-container.com Tokyo Fuji Art Museum

Genius and Ambition: The Royal Academy of Arts, London 1768-1918. Oil paintings by Turner, Constable and others. Until Nov 24, ¥400-1,300. Open Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, closed Mon. Yano-machi 492-1 Hachioji. Hachioji. Tel: 042-691-4511. www.fujibi. or.jp/en Tokyo Gallery + BTAP

Jin Sha Solo: Salute to Masters. Featuring 15 works of Chinese paintings, prints and sculptures by Chinese artist Jin Sha. Until Nov 22, Tue-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-5pm, closed Mon & Sun, free. Tue–Fri 11am–7pm & Sat 11am–5pm, closed Sun, Mon & Hols. 7F, 8-10-5 Ginza. Shinbashi. Tel: 03-35711808. www.tokyo-gallery.com

Sports BASEBALL Japan All-Star Series

Samurai Japan vs. MLB All Star Team. Nov 14-16, 6pm, ¥1,000-20,000. Tokyo Dome. Suidobashi. Tel: 03-58009999.

OTHER AREAS

GOLF

Hakone Museum of Photography

JLPGA

Mt. Fuji. Katsura Endo’s portrayal of the ever-changing symbol of Japan. Permanent exhibition. Until Nov 4, ¥300-500. 10am-5pm, closed Tue (9am-9pm Sat from May to August). 1300-432 Goura Hakonemachi, Ashigarashimogun, Kanagawa. Gora. Tel: 046-02-2717. www. hmop.com

Morinaga Ladies. Oct 31-2, 8pm, ¥5,400. Morinaga Takataki Country Club. Goi. http://meturl.com/ morinagaladies2014 PRO WRESTLING Noah

Nov 4, 6:30pm, ¥4,000-7,000 (adv)/ ¥5,000-7,000. Korakuen Hall. Suidobashi. Tel: 03-3527-5311.

Hoki Museum

Hito Omoi, Hito Omou. Paintings. Lifelike portraits by contemporary artists. Until Nov 16, ¥900-1,800. Hiroshi Noda: Living to Paint—Realism from the Entire Psyche. Nov 21-May 17, 10am-5:30pm, closed Tue, ¥900-1,800. Open Mon & Wed-Thu 10am-6pm, Fri-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-5pm, closed Tue. 3-15 Asumigaokahigashi, Midori-ku. Toke. www.hoki-museum.jp

Big Japan

Nov 22, 7pm, ¥3,150-6,300. Korakuen Hall. Suidobashi. Tel: 03-5800-9999. RUGBY

Festivals Kuroshio Yosakoi Matsuri

Participate in mochi making, a cabbage eating contest and more. Nov 30, 10am-6:30pm, free. Choshi City Hall. Choshi. Tel: 047-925-5889. www. kuroyosa.com

Forums & Expos Design Festa Vol. 40

The single largest art festival in Asia combining performances, international cuisine, artistic expression, enrichment, diversity and passion. Nov 8-9, 11am-7pm, ¥800 (adv 1 day ticket)/ ¥1,500 (adv 2 day ticket); ¥1,000 (door 1 day ticket)/ ¥1,800 (door two day ticket). Tokyo Big Sight. Kokusai Tenjijo. Tel: 03-3479-1433. http://designfesta.com/en/ Winter Sports Festa

A chance to buy ski and snowboard wear and accessories. Nov 8, 11am-8pm; Nov 9, 10am-6pm, free. Tokyo Big Sight. Kokusai Tenjijo. Tel: 0120-64-1166. www. fuyusupo.jp Game Market

Interact with other analog gamers and visit booths dedicated to board games, card games, simulation games and more. Nov 16, 10am-5pm, ¥500-1,000. Tokyo Big Site. Kokusai Tenjijo. Tel: 03-5283-9955. http://gamemarket.jp Organic Expo 2014

Discover new and innovative products in the area of food, natural cosmetics, natural textiles and natural products at the only organic trade show in Japan. Nov 20-22, 10am-5:30pm (until 5pm on Nov 21), ¥1,000 (free with online registration). Tokyo Big Site. Kokusai Tenjijo. Tel: 03-3512-5675. http:// organic-expo.jp/en

Bazaars & Markets Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair

Open air market selling okame masks, bamboo rakes of good luck, etc. Nov 10 & 22, all day, free. Chokokuji Temple and Ootori Shrine. Asakusa. http://meturl.com/asatori1 Swedish Christmas Bazaar

Swedish food, drinks, handicrafts and folk music. Nov 30, 12-4pm, ¥500. Swedish Embassy. Roppongi-Itchome. Tel: 03-5562-5050. http://meturl. com/swedishchristmas Shinagawa Intercity Flea Market

More than 120 vendors. Sun & hols. Until Jan 1, 9am-3pm, free. Shinagawa Intercity. Shinagawa. http://meturl. com/shinflea Iidabashi Ramla Market

Japan vs. New Zealand

Nov 8, 2pm, ¥500-10,000. Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium. Gaienmae. Tel: 03-34013881. SOCCER

Masataka Contemporary

Planet Jam. A group show with artists Saki Fujikawa,

Osaka. Nov 8, kickoff at 1:05pm, ¥1,000-7,000. Saitama Stadium 2002. Urawamisono. Tel: 0570-084-003.

Yamazaki Nabisco Cup

Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs. Gamba

Every first and third Sun, 10am-4pm, Iidabashi Ramla. Iidabashi. Umi no Koen Flea Market

Every third Sun, 10am-4pm, Umi no Koen. UminokoenShibaguchi. rinpodan@ umino-kouen.net. Tel: 03-3226-6800.

Best Flea Market

Every second Sun, 10am-4pm, Tokyo International Forum Hall C. Yurakucho. Tel: 03-3226-6800.

for slide shows, lectures, ride-planning, etc. Every second Wed, 7pm, free, The Pink Cow. Roppongi. Tel: 03-6434-5773. cowmail@ thepinkcow.com

Hanazono Shrine Market

Every Sun, 8am-4pm, Hanazono Shrine. Shinjukusanchome. Tel: 03-32003093. Ibaraki-ichi

Farm-fresh veg from the north. Every Sat, 7-9am, Roppongi Hills East Court. Roppongi. Tel: 03-6406-5285. Nogi Shrine Market

Every second Sun, 5:30am-3pm, Nogi Shrine. Nogizaka. Tel: 03-34783001. Oedo Antique Fair

Japan’s largest outdoor antique market. Every first and third Sun, 8am-4:30pm, Tokyo International Forum Hall C. Yurakucho. Tel: 03-5805-1093. Aoyama Marché

Organic farmers market. Every weekend, United Nations University. Omotesando. Tel: 03-3456-0960. Yasukuni Shrine Antique Market

Every Sun, sunrisesunset, Yasukuni Shrine. Kudanshita. Tel: 03-32618326. Fudaten Jinja Market

Every second Sun, 10am-4pm, Fudaten Jinja. Chofu. Tel: 04-2489-0022. Shinjuku Central Park Market

Local produce stalls, workshops and live performances. Every Sat, 10am-4pm, Shinjuku Central Park. Tochomae. Tel: 03-2504-2128. http://meturl. com/shinjukuparkmarket Yebisu Marché

Organic fruits and vegetables. Every first and third Sun, 11am-5pm, Ebisu Garden Place. Ebisu. www. facebook.com/YEBISUMarche

Community Grief Support Group

Hosted by TELL every Wednesday. For more information, contact training@ telljp.com. Oct 8-Dec 10, 7-8:30pm, free. Wesley Center. Omotesando. http://meturl. com/griefsupport2014 Pause Talk

Open forum where creatives can get together and discuss projects, ideas and cultural currents. Every first Mon, Cafe Pause. Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-6912-7711. www. pausetalk.org Party and Purpose

A casual get-together over dinner with people interested in personal development, organized by Tokyo Positive Thinkers. Every third Wed, 8pm, about ¥2,000, Ikebukuro TGI Friday's. Ikebukuro. Tel: 090-4440-6391. http://meturl. com/positivethinkerstokyo Stitch-n-Bitch

Meet fellow knitters, crocheters and sewers to talk, share ideas, eat, drink and create. Every first and third Tue, 7pm, free, Cafe Respekt. Shibuya. www.meetup.com/ TokyoStitchandBitch Half-Fast Cyclists

Bicyclists of all treads meet

Tokyo Street Hockey Association

Casual street hockey group with regular meet-ups. Every first, second and third Fri, 8pm, ¥2,000-3,000 (per player)/ ¥500 (goalies, girls, first timers). Various venues. Check website calendar for details. www.tokyohockey.com Dr. Sketchy’s Anti-Art School

Burlesque models pose for art stars and sketching newbies alike with arty socializing. Every third Wed, 7pm, ¥2,000 w/1d. Studio and Space IVVA. Meiji-Jingumae or Harajuku. www.drsketchytokyo. wordpress.com

Motomachi-Chukagai. Tel: 045-624-3900. www. sbejapan.com Tokyo Metropolitan Tourism Chrysanthemum Exhibition

100th anniversary of one of Tokyo’s most well-known flower forums. Decoration flowers, bonsai and more. Until Nov 23, all day, free. Hibiya Park. Hibiya. Tel: 03-3501-6428. http://meturl.com/tokchrys1 Festival Fukushima!

Ikebukuro comes to life with a giant furoshiki cloth on the ground, big band music and original bon dancing. The festival also serves as the launch party for the 2014 edition of Festival/Tokyo, Japan’s largest performing arts event. Nov 1, 3-8pm; Nov 2, 11am-5pm, free. Ikebukuro West Gate Park. Ikebukuro. www.festivaltokyo.jp The R2 Masquerade Ball

Sunday Spin

Hula-hoop it up in Yoyogi, no need to bring your own. Drop in/out at any time. Every fourth Sun, Yoyogi Park. Harajuku. Tel: 03-3469-6081. http:// meturl.com/hoopinginjapan

Learning Natural Wine Seminar

Tasting of four wines with full-course French dinner. Oct 31, 7-9pm, ¥5,500 (general), ¥4,500 (member). Cafe de la Presse. Nihon-Odori. Tel: 045-222-3348. http://meturl. com/wineseminar Chocolate and Wine Pairing Party

Nov 15, 6-8:30pm, ¥3,980 + tax (adv). Sakura Hall. http:// meturl.com/otherwine French Cheese Seminar

French lecture on four cheeses to pair with French cider. Nov 15, 10:30am, ¥3,500 (general)/¥3,000 (member). The French Institute of Yokohama. Kannai. http:// meturl.com/cheesecider Illustration Workshop with Romain Hugault

Drawing or illustration experience required. Nov 27, 10:45am, ¥2,500 (general)/¥2,000 (member). The French Institute of Yokohama. Kannai. http://meturl.com/ locoshalloween2014

A legendary night out feat. Tokyo’s finest female DJs, sensual dance performances and more. Nov 1, 10pm-4am, ¥4,000 (adv). R2 Supper Club. Roppongi. Tel: 03-64470002. www.r2sc.jp/en Yokohama Triennale 2014

Art event with the theme “voyage into the sea of oblivion.” Until Nov 3, various times, ¥500-2,400. Various venues. Minatomirai or Basamichi. Tel: 03-5405-8686. www.yokohamatriennale.co.jp Beaujolais Nouveau Party

Be among the first to sip this year’s Beaujolais nouveau. Nov 20, 2:30pm & 12:30-2pm, Free entry, but charge for drinks. The French Institute of Yokohama. Kannai. http://meturl.com/ beaujolais2014 19th Annual Connoisseurs’s Auction

Highlights of the evening include an exclusive French wine tasting, live and silent auctions of connoisseur items, an autumn feast, entertainment and raffles for fabulous prizes. Registration required. Nov 21, 5:30pm, ¥20,000. Embassy of France in Tokyo. Hiroo. Tel: 03-4550-1191. http:// tellauction.com Japan Idol Festival

With Links, Chu-Z, Ultra Girl and more. Jan 25, 3pm, ¥4,500. Shinjuku Blaze. Shinjuku. Tel: 0570-550-799. www. kyodotokyo.com/JIF

TCS Improv Workshop

The weekly Tokyo Comedy Store In the Moment improv workshop, all levels welcome. Beginner intensives on weekends throughout the year. See website for more details. Every Wednesday, 7-9pm, Our Space Studio. Hatagaya. Tel: 03-5770-7401. www. tokyocomedy.com

Underground party hosted by drag queens. Every first Saturday night of every month. BYOB. Until Dec 5, 12am, ¥3,000(dress code)/¥4,500 (w/flyer)/ ¥5,000 (door). Tokyo Kinema Club. Uguisudani. Tel: 03-3874-7988. http:// department-h.com

Nihonga Class

Shibuhouse Party

Regular classes and one-day workshops on basic Japanesestyle painting techniques. All classes in English and Japanese. Weekdays 6pm, Sat 11am & 3pm, ¥5,000-15,000. Email for details on flexible class times. 4B Maruoka Bldg, 5-49-7 Jingumae. Meiji-Jingumae. www.mariatanikawa.com

All-night house party with the Shibuhouse residents on the 22nd of every month, 7pm-7am. ¥1,000 w/ food & drink. Contact shibuhouseinfo@gmail.com for address/directions. Shibuya. www.shibuhouse.com.

Department-H

Build a Smarter Body Build a flexible and healthy physique and enjoy eating, work, hobbies and sports more than ever before.

Other Events

PERSONAL TRAINING STUDIO

Yokohama Halloween Festival

4F Laguetto Aoyama, 3-14-2 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo

The biggest international Halloween party in Japan, with live music, a free Halloween make-up booth and more. Oct 31, 9pm-5am, ¥1,5002,500. Yokohama Bay Hall.

MORE LISTINGS ONLINE → METURL. COM/LISTINGS

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2.2 RENT UNDER ¥200,000

FRI, NOV 14 ISSUE Deadline: Nov 6, 3pm

1.6 HOME & GARDEN

1.1 HEALTH I N N E R BALANCE. Tr a d i t i o n a l oriental treatment of acupuncture a n d moxibustion. Also body massage a n d r e f l e xo l o g y. M o b i l e ser v ice to your home or of f ice. Email Takahito at innerbalance123@gmail.com or see http://tmasuda.wix. com/inner-balance.

CLEAN AND SMILE COMPANY. We'll make your kitchen, bathroom, toilet, carpet and everything else sparkle! Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm. We charge ¥4000/h for house cleaning. Just call 03 -5 413 -7410. britonmmm@ yahoo.co.jp

weeks online. For details, v i s i t t h e To k y o C l a s s i f i e d s blog—http://metropolis.co.jp/ classifiedblog—or email us at commercial@metropolisjapan. com. CREATIVE SOLUTIONS. Specialists in branding, web design, photo/ video production. Drawing A Crowd: a new approach in design. Get in touch. info@drawingacrowd.co

COMPREHENSIVE HEALTH COVE R AG E FOR E XPATS, D I PLO M AT S , TE AC H E R S . Inpatient and outpatient care, emergencies, surgery, meds, checkups, dental, lab tests, MRI and more. Thirtyday money-back guarantee. Quick, easy application; convenient payment options. Enroll today! info@e ar thhe althcare.jp w w w.ear thhealthcare.jp 078-351-7300

SPORTS PHYSIOTHERAPY (physical therapy) care in Hiroo. Native English -speaking therapists specializing in sports injuries, p o s t - o p e r a t i v e rehabilitation, back/neck pain, running related, headaches, orthotics, ergonomic consultations and women’s health. w w w.tokyophysio.com 03-3443-6769

LAW OFFICE IN KAWASAKI (nex t to Tokyo), member o f t h e Yo k o h a m a B a r Association. Legal service in English for traffic accidents, divorce, inheritance, bankruptcy, business cases (contracts, establishing a company, trademarks, etc.) and other legal problems.Email: web@smk w.biz w w w. sumikawa.net/ VISA COUNSELING: female immigration lawyer handles your visa case. Permanent residency, naturalization, eligibility (inviting your spouse/ children/workers from your country), extension/ change of visa status. Consultation ¥5000. OFFICE LIFE (Miho Fujibayashi). Te l : 0 9 0 - 8 3 3 0 - 0 6 70 Email: mailto@officelife.jp Website: http://officelife. jp/en/

SMILE STAND: Japan’s first and only stylish rental photo booth. An exciting addition to any party, event, etc., and the best way to get crazy, fabulous, professional photos. With this ad ¥55,000~. info@ highland-tokyo.com https:// vimeo.com/44976943 www. smile-stand.com

TO ADVERTISE IN METROPOLIS, Japan’s No.1 English magazine, l o g o n a t w w w. m e t r o p o l i s . co.jp/classifieds or email your commercial ads to commercial@ metropolisjapan.com.

S E RV I C E D A PA R TM E NT S in a quiet residential area of Hiroo. Studios and suites. 4 min from Hiroo stn. Rates: Daily ¥ 7800. Weekly ¥6850 -/day. Monthly ¥5700-/day. Over three months ¥5130-/day. Ta x , u t i l i t i e s i n c l u d e d . frontdesk@azabucourt. com w w w.azabucour t . com/ 03-3446 -8610

2.3 RENT OVER ¥200,000 FURNITURE RENTAL. Create customized furnished apartments with our furniture rental ser vice. Furniture packages arranged by our qualified interior designers to accommodate various sizes and styles. We also of fer ap ar tment leasing consultation. Please call 0120-957-520. www.smartrental-tokyo.com

2 FIND A PLACE 2.1 GUESTHOUSE

1.2 HAIR & BEAUTY

MEN’S BARBERSHOP IN ROPPONGI WELCOMES FOREIGNERS. Englishspeaking assistant will get your haircu t right . H aircu t s ¥ 4 8 0 0. W i t h s h a v e ¥ 5 8 0 0. Kids’ haircuts ¥4000¥ 4 4 0 0. F i r s t- t i m e d i s co u n t ¥ 1 0 0 0 . h t t p : //o a z o . b i z / t o p 0 3 - 5 5 4 5 - 7 7 9 7 o a z o7 7 9 7 @ yahoo.co.jp

PRIVATE FURNISHED A P A R T M E N T S . Odakyu line: MukogaokaYu e n / Yo m i u r i - L a n d - M a e , 20/30min from Shinjuku. Keikyu line: Hatcho-Nawate, 15min from Shinagawa. 1K~2LDK ¥58,000/ m~¥120,000/m. Tel: 044-9337000 Email:mh@minowagroup. jp w w w.minowagroup.jp/ minowahomes

1.8 GENERAL SERVICES

1.7 BUSINESS SERVICES

THINKING ABOUT ADVERTISING WITH METROPOLIS? Platinum ¥32,400. Gold ¥27,000. Silver ¥21,600. Prices include one photo. Bronze ¥2000 (photo + ¥ 20 0 0). P r i ce s a r e f o r 4 0 wo r d s , o n e p rin t i s s u e, t wo

CREA-UN UENO. Furnished private rooms, w/digital locks, near Asakusa, Ueno, Skytree. S a f e a r e a , f e m a l e - o n l y, rooftop garden w/nice view, BBQ space, free bicycle. From ¥56,000/m. Utilities included. No key money/guarantor. crea-un.sakura@ko-bo.com http://www.sakura-ko-bo.com 03-6912-0692

KANAMACHI GUEST HOUSE. Brand-new furnished share rooms, separate male and female floors, all rooms

English and Japanese. JF, 40s, seriously seeks language exchange partner or English conversation partner to brush up her E. Can anyone help me? Of course, I would be happy to help your Japanese if you like. Serious only, please. daphneodora@hotmail.co.jp English and Japanese. I’m a Japanese guy, 40, E/J language exchange expert with eight years’ experience. I live in central Tokyo. I need a native English speaker’s help to make my English more natural. hiki4se7ga0@yahoo.co.jp English and Japanese. Group language exchange every Wed, 7:30-9:30pm, at coffee shops around Ginza. Most members are 20s and 30s. We switch languages every 30min. Fun events on weekends. Free to join. ando.andy@ gmail.com French and Japanese. Fr and J daily exchange in Otemachi. winds_fr@ hotmail.com French, English, Japanese. Hello! I'm a native Russian speaker, 23, working as an E/Fr teacher, seeking a Japanese speaker to help me improve my Japanese. I'm a beginner. Not far from Ichikawa-shi, Chiba. julia_kuzhnetsova@mail.ru German and Japanese. JF seeks Ger/J language exchange partner. Seit Sechs Monaten lerne ich Deutsch aber ich spreche Englisch. F/M ok. If interested, drop me a line. gardenstate2005@ hotmail.com Italian and Japanese. Would like to learn basic It from a native speaker who wants to practice J. Possibly near Shibuya on weekday evenings after 7pm. unicornio@nifty.com Italian and Japanese. JM, 40s, interested in Italian cars, art, culture and food, is seeking a language exchange mate in Tokyo. I work on weekdays, so weekends/holidays are convenient for me. youdidntsaythat@yahoo.co.jp

0 TOKYO APARTMENTS. Your one-stop housing solution throughout Tokyo. Providing s e r v ice d , fu rni s h e d a n d unfurnished apartments, for both long- and shortterm stays. Also providing relocation services, furniture rental, property m anagement and sales. Please call 0120-957-920. www.tokyoapartments.jp

2.5 PLACE WANTED I M M I G R AT I O N L A W Y E R AT N I P PA S H I O F F I C E s u p p o r t s visa and naturalization applications, company establishment and branch off ice installation, including commercial regis tration, as well as inheritance procedures in Jap an. Fre e co n sul t at io n available in English, Español and Japanese. Tel: 03-6264 8446 np@nippashi.com http:// nippashi.com

English and Japanese. Japanese female, early 20s, seeking a language exchange. Nihonbashi area after work preferred, but open to weekends, too. lovin2012_life@yahoo.co.jp English and Japanese. Native English speaker is sought by Japanse male in Kokubunji. Weekday evenings or anytime on weekends. I would like to talk with you at a cafe or via Skype. Serious but fun. seigow@hotmail.com

FRI, NOV 28 ISSUE Deadline: Nov 19, 3pm

1 AT YOUR SERVICE

English and Japanese. I love joking in E and playing with words. I want to be able to do the same in J. So far, my Japanese is as funny as day-old ramen. You must be open-minded! uk84@outlook.com

Apartment required in Chiba. Hello, I am starting a new job in the Kobukecho area of Chiba on Jan 1, and I am seeking an apartment. Thanks. japan@ roughsmoke.com

Korean and Japanese. Japanese male, 41, seeks a native Korean speaker for Kor/J exchange. I like music, reading, cooking. I hope we can learn from each other and have some fun. astralsky@ excite.co.jp Russian, English, Japanese. Hello, I'm a native Russian speaker. I arrived in Tokyo to study Japanese at a language school, but I want to improve my Japanese more. If you're learning Russian, I can help you, too. segasf@ rambler.ru Spanish and Japanese. Native Spanish speaker (Latin American preferred) sought for language exchange. Meet in Tokyo area once/week. Serious learners only, please. tempstadesjp@gmail.com

3.6 LEARNING: GENERAL

3 EDUCATION

English and Japanese. Hi there, I'm seeking language exchange partners around central Tokyo on weekends. I can speak reasonable English, but recently, I have little opportunity to speak it. I'm a Japanese female, 40s. Serious only— but should be fun! hydrangea2008@ gmail.com

Help me, please. British man, my Japanese is awful. I can’t speak and it’s making me unhappy. I want a strict Japanese teacher. I don’t want a language exchange. Two hours/week. Can pay about ¥1000/h. helpmyjapanese@ outlook.com Hjaelpe mig med dansk! Leder efter dansker i Tokyo eller Kanagawa. Jeg taler lidt dansk og vil gerne laere mere! Jeg kan hjaelpe dig med japansk. JF, 30s, ikke-ryger. b2jw13@hotmail.co.jp Ikebana lesson (sogatsu). Would like private ikebana instruction at my hotel Dec 4-9 in Ebisu. Must be qualified instructor with knowledge of sogetsu ( 草月). Broken English ability is ok. likeme4u@hotmail.com PhD student in engineering? Tokyo only. Majoring in wireless/communication or related area? Help me with simulation. Must be able to use Matlab/Simulink and know how to validate hypothesis with simulation like Monte Carlo, etc. Will pay ¥2000/h. yatri_in_town@yahoo.co.jp Reasonable English lessons. Japanese male, 30, seeks native English teacher who could teach me on weekends along the Odakyu line. Please introduce yourself. umek2002jp@yahoo.co.jp Teach me martial arts or yoga. I’m a Japanese man in Tokyo. Please teach me for free. Hope to hear from you soon. kamikaze_vibe@hotmail.com Wine teacher in Tokyo. Teach me about French wine in Tokyo on weekends. Prefer a native teacher with teaching experience and a wine qualification. Will pay for your time. frenchwinetasting@hotmail.com

4 HOUSEHOLD GOODS 4.2 APPLIANCES Air purifier, Venta LW, size 24, Germanmade ¥12,000. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@hotmail.com Fridge, National nr-b17 1j-r (480x584x1293mm) ¥7000. Pick up near Nezu stn, Chiyoda line. msa.japan@ hotmail.com Fridge, Mitsubishi MR-E45P, 445L, warm stainless, clean, five y/o, ice maker, eco, French doors, fits narrow, from Bic Camera. New ¥156,800. Sell ¥65,000. martin@klnow.com Fridge, Mit subishi, large, five compartments; top loading National washer; in good condition ¥10,000. Negotiable. Chuo-ku. Details, photos available. vijya.agrawal@gmail.com Fridge/freezer, Sanyo SR-B18J, 175L (fridge 123L, on top; freezer 52L, in three drawers), silver, '05, good for one-two people, in excellent condition ¥10,000. View Shinjuku. Can arrange delivery for extra cost. metropolisclassified@ jungletelegraph.net Futon dryer (布団乾燥機), Sanyo, still in box ¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@hotmail.com Humidifier, Fujitsu AH-56D ¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku-ku. likeme4u@hotmail.com Trouser press, Toshiba, stand-up, as new ¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@ hotmail.com

4.3 SAYONARA SALE

3.5 LANGUAGE EXCHANGE Danish, German, Japanese. Hej and 'N Tag! JF, 30s, seeks Danes and Germans to help her with languages in Tokyo/ Kanagawa through fun conversations over cups of coffee or just hanging out. Please be nonsmokers, late 20s-30s. codename107113@live.com

3.9 TEACH ME! Expert Python/C++ programmer (local). Can pay ¥1000/h, plus coffee. Must be fluent in English or Japanese. Master’s or PhD student (engineering) is ideal. Must be able to meet in Tokyo. yatri_in_town@ yahoo.co.jp

IKEBANA (JAPANESE TRADITIONAL FLORAL ARRANGEMENT) is a powerful means of self-expression. Trial lesson, including all materials ¥4000. No Japanese necessary. Certification, diploma can be earned. Three classroom locations in Tok yo. Website: www.atelier-soka.com/english/ index.html Email: smile@mikaotani.com

Sayonara sale! Hitachi washer, almost new, made in Japan ¥11,000. Sony Viera, 37”, almost new, w/Skype camera ¥38,000. DVD/VHF ¥10,000. Zojirushi dishwasher, new ¥26,000. Vaio, Win 8, almost new ¥72,000. selfeducation@ hotmail.com S a y o n a r a s a le! D e s k , c h a i r, microwave, various other kitchen items. beatricemalburg@web.de Sayonara sale! Onkyo surround system PR-155SPX, control unit, new remote, sub in good condition, speakers have some dents ¥15,000/obo. Pick up near Shinagawa stn. fairmerit@gmail.com

The majority of classified ads have moved online! classifieds.metropolis.co.jp Sayonara sale! Bed, shelves, etc. Shimokitazawa. Detail s, photos a v a i l a b l e. b o b a k .r o s t a m p o u r @ hays.co.jp https://www.flickr.com/ photos/128031859@N08/

4.6 FOR KIDS Crib ¥5000. Can deliver to central/ western Tokyo and assemble for extra charge. colinrundle@yahoo.com Windbreaker, Puma, black, size 130cm, in good condition ¥1000. Photo available. Pick up or chakubarai. housetsu@gmail. com

4.7 FOR FREE Cabinet, antique (W87xH166cm). Pick up only Suginami. star@moon8sun.com Perfume and lotion. Rose water (Palestine), rose oil perfume (India), and peony lotion from L’Occitane. Pick up Koto-ku or meet central Tokyo. larajuku1997@gmail.com Table, coffee (120x60xH35cm), w/ drawers on both sides, never used. Pick up only Mizonokuchi area. ml@cole.jp

5 HOBBIES&INTERESTS 5.1 CAMERAS Photographer set, D90 ¥130,000. maryryu2002@i.softbank.jp

5.2 SPORTS EQUIPMENT Golf bag, tote, Le Coq Sportif Golf, w/ shoe pocket, as new ¥2000. Pick up Shinjuku-ku. likeme4u@hotmail.com

5.5 GAMING PlayStation 3, Japanese version, 60GB, games use Blu-ray discs as media format, powerful cell processor, dynamic RSX graphics chip, backward compatible to original Sony PlayStation ¥25,000. Photo available. tokyogriff@gmail.com 090-6013-1396

5.6 COLLECTORS Ichiro Suzuki stamps. Commemorative stamps of the Seattle Mariners celebrating nine consecutive seasons of 200 hits, exclusively released in Japan, cannot be bought anywhere ¥10,000. Photos available. likeme4u@hotmail. com

6 VEHICLES 6.3 BICYCLES, PARTS, & ACCESSORIES Bike, Riteway, men’s, sport, 9.8kg, two y/o, in great condition, Shimano gears/ brakes, new tires, inner tubes, small scratches, for rider under 180cm. New + parts ¥70,000. Sell ¥30,000. rod_ jaytee@yahoo.co.uk Mamachari, three-speed, no rust, in excellent condition, two y/o, w/two seats ¥25,000. W/front seat only ¥22,000. Can deliver up to three stations from Ueno. msa.japan@hotmail.com Road bike, Ridley Helium, '14, 56cm, Ultegra groupset, Campagnolo Shamal wheels, Fizik saddle, Deda seat post and handle bars, 7.2kg, 1500km ridden ¥320,000/complete bike. Less for just frame. robert@ap-advisers.com

7 GENERAL 7.2 FASHION Dress, Heaven and Earth (Shibuya 109), gray, w/chain detail and matching gray tank top, Japanese free size, in great condition ¥500. Pick up Koto-ku or meet central Tokyo. larajuku1997@ gmail.com Dress, Jenevi (Shibuya 109), mini, black, w/blue detail, Japanese free size, in great condition ¥500. Pick up Koto-ku or meet central Tokyo. larajuku1997@gmail.com Flip-flops, Olukai brand, XL, made in Hawaii, never worn. New ¥6000+. Sell ¥3000. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@ hotmail.com Hair dye, red, from the UK, expires May '15 ¥500/bottle. Pick up Nakano. madamixx@yahoo.co.jp

Raincoat, Cecilene, size M, ivory ¥600. Pick up or chakubarai. Photo available. housetsu@gmail.com Ties, Versace, two, in original gift box ¥3000/each. ¥5000/both. Pick up Shinjuku. likeme4u@hotmail.com Wedding dress, white, size US 4-6/Japan 9-11 (adjustable lace corset) ¥30,000. Ikebukuro area. chemists_at_large@ yahoo.com

7.3 MISCELLANEOUS File folders, B1 size, three available, w/cute designs ¥750/all. Pick up or chakubarai. Photo available. housetsu@ gmail.com Portable navigation, CiVi, as new, w/ box, manual, all accessories ¥8000. mizi2005@hotmail.com

8 COMPUTERS 8.2 HARDWARE HD, two available, Fujitsu SCSI, Ultra 320 SCSI, 68-pin, 10,000rpm, 36GB ¥1000/ each. deshayes.g@gmail.com Laptop, Latitude i5, 6GB RAM, 250 SSD, Win 7 Pro, w/Japanese keyboard ¥34,000. Tokyo. nrad_bob@hotmail.com

Established in 1990, the Cru plays in the Shuto League 1st Division. http://www.facebook.com/tokyo. crusaders www.tokyocrusaders. com WEST PAPUA: ONE SOUL, ONE PEOPLE . Fif t y- one years ago, West Papua should have been an independent country. Since 1969, West Papua has been invaded and the people robbed of their rights, culture and country. Help support West Papuans’ desire to be free. http://tapol.gn.apc.org/ markhelp2@gmail.com ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TOKYO. If you have a problem with drinking, we can help. English-speaking meetings daily. 03-3971-1471 inquiries@aatokyo. org http://aatokyo.org HIV Peer Support group and workshops. Get together with people in the same boat as you, who understand. Held in a safe, considerate, 100% confidential setting to discuss what’s on your mind, ask questions and make new friends. info@peersupporttokyo.com www. peersupporttokyo.com

Laptop, Panasonic, Intel Core 2 Duo, 80GB, Wi-Fi, DVD multi-drive, 12” display, Microsoft Office Suite, E/Win 7, good battery life ¥11,000. tokyonice@ ymail.com

Infertility support group. TTC Tokyo is an infertility support group that provides informal opportunities for women and men experiencing infertility to connect with one another. Please visit website for more info. admin@ttctokyo. org www.ttctokyo.org

Laptops: Sony Vaio VGN-C71B/ W, 1.66GHz, 2GB RAM, 120GB HD, Win 7, loose graphics card; Lesance, 1.50GHz CPU, 2GB RAM, 20GB HD, Win 8, power cord (jiggle to recharge). andyfuga@gmail.com

To advertise in Metropolis, Japan’s No.1 English magazine, log on at www. metropolis.co.jp/classifieds or email your commercial ads to commercial@ metropolisjapan.com.

10 HELP!

10.3 LOST FRIENDS

10.1 HELP ME Atheist show needs hosts. We promote positive atheism, knowledge, common sense, skepticism and so forth. Similar to Atheist Experience on YouTube. assassin. wolves.films@gmail.com Climate expert needed to talk about the human impact on the environment. assassin.wolves.films@gmail.com Need to locate vendor/business. I need to source a business that can supply custom graphics/vinyls, and the same/another one that can supply custom T-shirts. East Tokyo or Chiba. Any ideas? japan@roughsmoke.com Sponsorship. Ten years' experience in cafe/bar work, including working at international hotels. I'd like to open a cafe/bar, but need sponsorship. Individuals and companies are welcome. Please, if interested, let us come to an agreement. samueladonkor@gmail. com 090-6152-6274

THE JAPAN HELPLINE, 24 hours a d ay, f ro m a ny w h e re, a b o u t anything. From emergency assistance to simple questions. Visit www.jhelp.com/ and press “help,” or call 0570 - 0 0 0 -9 11 . To volunteer or support, please contact team@jhelp.com. www. jhelp.com/

SUBSCRIBE TO METROPOLIS AND NEVER MISS AN ISSUE. One year (24 issues) ¥3600 (corporate subscribers, 7-100 copies ok ¥22,560). Half year (12 issues) ¥1800 (corporate subscribers, 7-100 copies ok ¥12,000). Bank transfer or credit card (Visa, Mastercard, D in e r s Club). D e t ail s at http://metropolisjapan.com/ subscription.

I N T E R N AT I O N A L PA R T Y AT LEAFCUP. Come join us and have fun. Men: ¥3000. Foreigners/ women: ¥2000. All-you-candrink-and-eat. Iidabashi and Yokohama: Nov 1 and 15. Shibuya: Nov 8 and 22. www. leafparty.com

13.1 SPORTS Seeking Mindy. Is Mindy Mack, a petite blonde teaching assistant from L.A., still in Tokyo? Any info appreciated. m106819151-tsky@yahoo. com

11 MESSAGES 11.1 PERSONAL MESSAGES

WRITE A MESSAGE FOR YOU R S PEC I A L SO M EO N E ! Write any thing, from bir thday messages to proposals. http:// classifieds.metropolis.co.jp.

12 SOCIAL SCENE 12.1 LET’S PARTY

J A PA N I N T E R N AT I O N A L PART Y— Autumn Festival. Sat, Nov 22, 6:30-9pm, Bar Quest (Roppongi). Japan’s biggest international party. 250 people expected. All-youcan-drink and free snacks. Japanese men: ¥ 4000. Others: ¥3000. Mobile: http:// getyourfriend.com/mobile/ jiparty@hotmail.com http:// w w w.get your frien d.com / 090-1735-5405

TA M B O U R E L L I . U n i q u e n e w sp or t from S cot land . Using a tambourine-like instrument as a racquet, players hit a shuttlecock. We play two or three times/month on weekends in Meguro with many socials. Join us! More details: www. tamjapan.org/en/ info@tamjapan. org All-level tennis group in Tokyo. Serious and motivated tennis players sought by active tennis group to join their weekly sessions in central Tokyo. We have advanced and intermediate groups on weekday evenings. Beginner and low-intermediate also welcome. No entrance or membership fees. Reasonable participation fees. tokyo. tennis@yahoo.fr Don's Half-Fast Flash-Mob Weekend Urban Bicycle Rides. halffastcycling@ hotmail.com Futsal players wanted by a very friendly international team. Practice is in Tokyo and Kanagawa on Sat. Details available. fkkyn468@ybb.ne.jp Interested in tai chi? Then why not start now? Take a step to counter the stresses of daily living. Practice is in Toyama Park on Sun mornings, near Takadanobaba stn. chifact@gmail.com

13 CLUBS & INTERESTS

10.2 SUPPORT

N E E D T O TA L K ? W e ’ r e h e r e to listen. TELL LIFELINE: free, anonymous English counseling daily from 9am-11pm by trained vo l u n te e r s: 03 - 57 74 - 0 9 92 . TELL COUNSELING: affordable multilingual p s yc h o t h e r a py by a cc re d i te d Western-trained professionals, a CIGNA International Provider: 03 - 4 5 5 0 -1 1 4 6 . T E L L w e b s i te: w w w.telljp.com. Follow us o n F a c e b o o k a n d Tw i t t e r @ TokyoLifeLine.

J O I N TH E B I G G E S T, B E S T, M O S T P O P U L A R I N T E R N AT I O N A L PA R T Y ! Great people, drinks and food! Meet new friends and party with nice people in a friendly atmosphere. E ve n t s i n To k yo (G i nz a , Azabu, Roppongi) and Osaka. ¥1500- ¥2000. http://english.gaitomo.com/ info@gaitomo.com

AMERICAN FOOTBALL. N ihon Unis ys Bulls , X league Central Division, seeks fit players w/ US college football experience for all positions. Practice every Sat/Sun from 10am-3pm (including meeting) in Tokyo/Saitama (time & venue subject to change). Attendance at practice must be over 60%. Please contact for tryout info and send your profile to team admin. bullsxleague@gmail.com http:// www.unisys.co.jp/football/ A L L - N AT I O N A L I T Y TO U C H FOOTBALL. Non-contact tag rugby (OZ tag) and Rugby League players. We play every Sat from 10am in Tatsumi. M/F and beginners welcome! Good exercise and fun! Many other activities, such as BBQs and drinking parties! Email for details. tokyorugbyleague@hotmail.com http://ameblo.jp/tokyo13warriors A M AT E U R R U G B Y L E A G U E PLAYERS. Japan ANZACS Rugby League team is seeking Rugby League p layer s for Japanese Rugby League of f icial games from Apr to Sep. Everyone welcome. Contact for more details. japananzacs@gmail.com FUN WITH TOUCH RUGBY! Join us for social or competitive touch rugby every Sat at 2:30pm by Ariake stn, Yurikamome line. Any age, sex, level ok. Please email for details. funwithtouch@gmail.com http://www. funwithtouch.com/where-we-play/ P L AY R U G B Y. T h e To k y o Crusaders are a friendly but keen international rugby club. D evo te d to t h e g am e an d i t s social side, the “Cru” welcomes all players and supporters.

New players sought, especially goal keeper and strikers, for regular futsal, 11-a-side, socials. Any nationality ok. kantocelts@gmail.com www. kantoceltsfc.com Quality football. Interested in playing football at the weekend and training midweek? Want to enjoy a few beers after a good run out? If you consider yourself a quality player, please drop us a note. bfcvagabonds@gmail.com Samurai and ninjutsu martial arts. Seeking people interested in training in old-style Japanese fighting arts. Effective and intelligent, but safe training approach. rootarty@gmail. com Table tennis in Minato-ku. Hi, our international team is seeking experienced players. You need to be living or working in Minato-ku and commit to play ten times/year on Sundays (all day). No beginners, please. fgrideau@gmail.com Women’s football club. Five-aside, 11-a-side, on grass fields. Two or three practices/matches on Sun. All nationalities, experience levels, beginner s welcome. Happy and friendly club! We have many socials. djnorio@hotmail.co.jp

13.2 LEISURE MACARTHUR HEIGHTS. Ta ke a b r e a k w h e r e G e n e r a l Douglas MacArthur did! One hour from Tokyo by car or direct train. Beautiful cabins on the ocean, w/onsen, beach, shopping. housinginjapan@yahoo.com Free Japanese home cooking. Japanese housewife offers free washoku home cooking class in English at her house near Kawasaki stn on weekday days. You pay the cost of ingredients. tome.harukasoushi@ezweb.ne.jp Let’s cook together. Why don’t you come over to my kitchen (Japanese woman in Shinagawa) to learn how to make yummy home-style Japanese dishes? Washoku, Western food, Chinese, etc. Only pay for ingredients. Women only. cookjapon@ gmail.com Tokyo ET contact group. Join us beneath the stars as we endeavor to make contact with ET visitors and their craft. nakanosky@ gmail.com http://www.meetup.com/ Tokyo-ET-Contact-Group/events/193113322/ Tokyo Snow Club. A ski/snowboard club for anyone living in, or visiting Tokyo. We go on big group trips every weekend in the winter. Powder, live music events, and parties in snow. Membership is free! info@tokyosnowclub.com http://www. tokyosnowclub.com 050-5806-5616

13.4 MUSIC A cappella group. Miss singing? Join our singing group! We sing orchestral classical music only in human voice, conducted by a professional a cappella singer. ryusei@acappella-cantabile. jp ht tp://acappella- cantabile. jp/?page_id=202 Female backing/joint main singer. Hi, seeking female singer for a Tokyo band —two Japanese, two British members. We play UK-style indie rock, have many songs, play live sometimes but need to improve vocals. 日本語もok. stevendparker@hotmail.com JM support guitarist seeks singer. I’m a Japanese guitarist in Tokyo. I’d like to help with your singing. Please let me play your songs. Let’s street gig together in Tokyo. I like pop, rock, punk. riku_hiroxx@hotmail.com Keyboardist sought by funk/fusion band. Any nationality is welcome. Come for a tryout. christianpelissero@ yahoo.fr Musicians wanted. Seeking keyboards, drums, guitars and Vox to take my music live and into the studio to record. You must be able to rehearse weekends in central Tokyo. Listen to my SoundCloud playlist. xp_sucks@ hotmail.com https://soundcloud.com/ shinopshino_being/sets Musicians wanted to play northern European/Scandinavian music together, especially accordionist. Rehearse a couple of times/month in Nakano. We are two violinists, flutist, bassist, guitarist and pianist. unicornio@nifty.com Seeking jazz members. Japanese male seeking jazz players for fun in the Tokyo area. I’ve been playing the alto sax for a couple of years. Still amateur, but want to play with others. Please feel free to contact me. yossynet@ra2.so-net.ne.jp

13.5 MIND, BODY, SPIRIT Diamond Way Buddhism Tokyo. Do you want to explore your own mind? Guided Buddhist meditation every Sun, 6pm, near Azabu-Juban. International practitioners, beginners welcome, Japanese spoken. Please call 0903598-3072 for more information. daginia@gmail.com ht tp:// w w w. diamondway.jp/ Iro-Do Cafe meeting. Volunteer healing meeting in Tokyo. Don’t hesitate to contact me if you need help. winds_ fr@hotmail.com Tibetan Buddhist meditation in Tokyo. Part of the Karma Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. This school puts special focus on meditation practice. Regular guided meditations Sun from 7pm. findlay65@gmail.com http://w w w.meetup.com/ TibetanBuddhist-Meditation-In-Tokyo-Japan/ 080-4389-8818 Tokyo Dialogue. We have been meeting in the heart of the concrete jungle called Tokyo for 10 years to create an oasis of calm reflection and listening. findlay65@gmail.com http:// tokyodialogue.wordpress.com/ Zen meditation (Zazen). You’ve always thought it would be interesting to try it—why not now? Join us Fri evenings at Tokuun-in in Ueno. Make arrangements in advance by email, and check our home page. tokyozazen@jcom.home. ne.jp www.wgthorpe.com

13.6 RELIGIOUS Seeking a Baptist church without judgmental people, many English speakers, and where everyone is in normal clothes? Contact me and let’s meet at Higashi-Shinjuku stn, exit A2, Sun at 10:30am. paytyt@gmail.com

13.8 PROFESSIONAL Tokyo Traders Club. International club for traders and investors. Discuss opportunities in stocks, commodities and forex. Many regular events, including FX trading workshop. New to trading? No problem; beginners also welcome. You can also learn to trade. Join free! info@tokyotraders.com http://www. tokyotraders.com/ 080-5681-1321

13.9 INTERNATIONAL Intercultural activities. JII (Japan Intercultural Institute) is a non-profit, member-run organization that sponsors activities (seminars, cultural events, conferences) for those wanting to further develop intercultural competencies and meet other interculturalists. yuko. bolick@japanintercultural.org www. japanintercultural.org Nihongo 倶楽部いんたぁなしょなる. Nihongo Club International is a volunteer group to help foreign people learn Japanese at the Tokyo Volunteer Action Center in Iidabashi. Every Thu, 7-9pm. nci_tokyo@yahoo.co.jp

14 PERSONALS 14.1 FRIENDS Aerial partner. Anyone want to study aerial silks or ring together as training partners? We can exchange conditioning techniques, work out together. Dance, yoga, gymnastics, or ballet background would be great to help me increase my flexibility. kokoryta@hotmail.com

14.2 MEN LOOKING FOR WOMEN SUBMISSIVE SJM, 36, cute, is seriously seeking a woman who is into, or interested in, dominating men. I am so submissive, with seven years’ experience, that I am happy to take whatever and serve you in any way. slaveintokyo@gmail.com

Confident, tall, thrill-giving man seeks Japanese woman who wants her body to explode with feelings she never knew existed. This is a journey which you will treasure forever. Nonsmokers only, 23-26. I’m white, international British. Japanese ok. erolp.x.ei@gmail.com

Attractive Irish guy seeking company. Irish male, fun, 30s, attractive, 6’1, visiting Japan for two weeks in midNov, seeking attractive local ladies for a drink or to show me around. timlinch@ yahoo.com

Decent JM available. Seeking a cheerful and mature lady. I’m 30s, financially secure, clean, living in Tokyo, enjoying life. Let’s have dinner or drinks to get to know each other first. Prefer nonJapanese. Casual date? gb_0606@ yahoo.co.jp

American guy. Mature man, late 40s, living in Yokohama, needs Japanese woman for dining out, movies, beaches, games, reading, parties, fitness and much more. Free on weekends. gonzo33@outlook.com Are you the one? Seeking a daytime friend to play and to practice speaking English and Japanese. You should be a JF, 21-45. Any size ok. Me: WM, 35, slim, fit, interesting, easy to smile/laugh with. martin30181@gmail.com

Canadian dude seeks friendship. I'm in Kinshicho seeking friends to help with visa/living issues, friendship. M/F ok. I will be going back to Canada in Dec unless I can apply for a work visa. I'm interested in world travel. nekobot14@ gmail.com

Artistic American guy, 38, my father spoke German, born in America, lived near Santa Monica. Now near Tokyo Tower. Athletic, love artistic expression, restaurants, fashion, R&B. Please live or work in central Tokyo and be openminded. tokyotwr10@yahoo.com

Coffee in Machida. Would anyone from Western countries (especially northern Europe) like to have a cup or two of coffee together with an Englishspeaking JF, 30s, in/around the Machida area? Please be nonsmokers, late 20s30s. b2jw13@hotmail.co.jp

Attractive black girl? Handsome, young, very athletic, blond American guy seeking beautiful black girl, any nationality, under 40. I speak a little of many languages, so mail and give it a shot! Shallumain@yahoo.co.jp

Danes wanted. JF, 30s, into Denmark like crazy! Nogen dansker i Tokyo eller Kanagawa at moedes til kaffe og hjaelpe mig at laere dansk lidt? Please vaere ikke-ryger, late 20-30s. Glaeder mig til at hoere fra jer! codename107113@ live.com Expand my horizons. JF hopes to meet English speakers (including nonnative) who can share nice friendships. I'd like to expand my horizons through new points of view from foreign people. Shall we have some tea? Nonsmokers, under 35 preferred. polkadots.1466@ gmail.com Fellow Japanese learners. English guy in Tokyo learning Japanese. I'm seeking other people who are also learning Japanese to hang out with, share language tips and resources, and share occasional frustrations. My Japanese isn't great (yet!). vint.snap@ gmail.com Feminine white crossdresser living in Tokyo seeking friends. k.sweetdream@ yahoo.com Food-business people. Seeking people working in the restaurant/food industry to get together occasionally and exchange ideas and experiences— and have fun in general. vmnn1234@ yahoo.com Hello, I'm originally from New York. I love Tokyo, going out, meeting new people. Let's get dinner or drinks. I'm a bit quiet but not shy; adventurous, laid-back and friendly. I'm into art, music, movies, literature. mikenyus@ hotmail.com Lunch/afterwork friends in the Ginza/ Tokyo stn/Yurakucho area. Professional male seeking lunch or afterwork drinks friends. Friendly, open, world-minded, speaks multiple languages, enjoys life. You? advenchures+1224@gmail.com N ot J a p a n e s e? E n g l i s h c h a p, internationally traveled, working near the Imperial Palace, seeking international people for drinks and chats after work. Any non-Japanese nationality ok. Tell me your story in a few lines when you contact me. greenteais.yummy@gmail.com

Attractive black male seeking attractive and sexy girlfriend, single/married, fun to be around, seeking intimacy. I'm 36, intelligent, 183cm, athletic, from NY, working in IT, living in Ota-ku. I enjoy movies, running, relaxing. Please send your photo. goldfinger726@gmail.com Attractive JM for SWF. Seeking attractive Western female with a nice smile. If you are interested in chatting over coffee or nice food, please contact me and let me know. I am looking forward to your contact. Just try once. juniperten2013@gmail.com Attractive SJM seeks a nice Western or Japanese female for friendship and possibly more. Nonsmokers preferred. I am confident that I can create happy and fun times for you. If you are ready, email me. cioinjapan@gmail.com British male, 31, friendly, tall, slim, seeking a nice girl to hang out with. Nationality/race unimportant, but should be 20-35 and have a nice personality. Interested in music and film: you should be, too. shiodomebye@gmail.com British-Australian gentleman. Hello, I am an Oxbridge-educated British-Australian gentleman seeking a single Japanese lady for friendship and marriage. I will be in Tokyo and Kyoto in Nov and would like to have an email exchange beforehand. stjdavid@ googlemail.com Can we be friends? Married man for housewife. Can we exchange emails and meet sometimes for a coffee together? Serious but slightly lonely married gentleman here. vbcfgt@hotmail.com Can you be my sweet girlfriend? SWM, good-looking, working in finance, seeking a sweet girlfriend. I like reading, keeping fit, movies. Let’s go out for a drink or coffee. atatakaijohn@yahoo.co.jp Caring and cute JM seeks attractive, hearty, nonsmoking Western female for friendship. I simply would like to share fun, interesting and great experiences with you. If you feel the same way, just drop me a line. jinzaixyz@yahoo.co.jp

Seeking friends in central Tokyo. JF, early 30s, seeks friends to hang out with in central Tokyo. atkm92@yahoo.co.jp

Carpe diem. Genuine, attractive, down-to-earth SJM, 40s, is seeking a serious relationship. Would love to meet a lady who is sincere, active and sophisticated. Let’s have coffee to see if there’s good chemistry between us. toshinoris1012@yahoo.co.jp

Seeking Thai friends. I am a JM, 40s, interested in the culture of Thailand, seeking Thai friends for fun times and hanging out together. friendlyjapon@ yahoo.co.jp

Chinese, Singaporean, Indian...? British guy, 30s, seeking non-Japanese women to hang out with, maybe more. It may seem obvious, but please only contact me if you have time to meet. No

Japanese seeking marriage with a gaijin, please! greenteais.yummy@gmail.com

Female friend, please. UK male, 36, seeks female friends for drinking, chatting, maybe more. I want a friend with benefits, but just a normal friend would be nice, too. In a relationship, but not happy. Let's meet for a chat. zzztopsandfingers@hotmail.co.uk Food, wine and romance. Attractive, physically fit, romantic, passionate SWM, 40s, seeking romantic, elegant, attractive Japanese woman for a serious relationship. Cooler weather is here— let's explore restaurants, weekend getaways and great times together. herbsandspices1712@gmail.com

JOBS CHAT HOSTS AND TEACHERS WANTED BY LEAFCUP in Tokyo, Iidabashi, Shibuya, Yokohama. Seeking enthusiastic, proficient English, French, Spanish and/or German speakers who can teach and lead li vel y conversations. ¥1,000 - ¥1,500/h. A p p l y o n l i n e : h r @ l e a f c u p .co m www.leafcup.com/job.php

Handsome, sweet, smart Japanese man seeks SWF who seeks secret happy events in her spare time in Tokyo. Single/ married ok. Shall we begin to talk? I think this opportunity will be a great one for us. followupforme14@gmail.com Hang out. Here from London. Will be staying in Japan for a while. Want to meet new people to hang out with, enjoy drinks, do new things. I'm not the Roppongi type, so no Roppongi lovers, please. Nonsmokers only. englishmobile@outlook.com I'm not an SNS guy. Seeking a new relationship with a nice female—no lies and stress-free. I'm a single Japanese male, cool and sweet, not the party-guy type. I'm truly honest. getloud999hello@yahoo.co.jp I’m not like most foreigners in Tokyo. I don’t dream of cute girls. I’ve lived in several countries, enough to understand Japanese and other cultures. My humor is playful, silly. Can you handle a nontypical gaikokujin? Seeking 20s only. m3_3m@outlook.com Italian or Spanish? British guy seeking Italian or Spanish woman living in Tokyo. Have drinks, some fun. Send me a message and tell me about yourself. summerfunk@googlemail.com

S E E K I N G FE M A LE TH E R A PI ST f o r Ayurvedic massage, oil and other massages. Mixture of commission and hourly pay (approximately ¥200,000 ~¥300,000/m). Previous experience as massage therapist not necessary, but Japanese conversational skills may be required. Shift-work between 11am and 5am the next morning. Lo c at io n s: S hib u y a , Ro p p o n g i , Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Ueno, etc. Visa required. 03-5842-5393 http:// mominokihouse.jp プロジェクトマネージャー・コーディネーター募集。六本木にあるMetropolis

Magazine

は、バイリンガルスタッフを募集しています。経

Life is short. Recently single British man, 36, seeks Japanese woman for a drink, chat and hopefully more if we like each other. Life is short and I want to meet someone new. Life is for living, so let's drink. happylamp@hotmail.co.uk

験：デザイン・広告業界の経験、進行管理の経験

Marriage. White Canadian male, 44, seeking a woman for a serious relationship leading to marriage. I am too old to play any games. If you are really serious, please contact me. martin_coman@hotmail.com

文／英文）をご送付下さい。書類選考の上、ご連絡

Married gentleman seeks love with married gentlewoman. Is it possible? Maybe not. vbcfgt@hotmail.com Massage for JF in Yokohama, Tokyo. Hello, tall Spanish man can give you private オイルマッサージ。いかがで

があれば尚可。能力：コミュニケーション能力、協調性、日本語に堪能、ビジネスレベルの英語力。条件：平日9:30-18:30 待遇：面接にて。jobs@

metropolis.co.jpまで、履歴書・職務経歴書（和させて頂きます。

METROPOLIS is seeking motivated bilingual (E/J) sales executives, support staff and interns to join its advertising and marketing team. Send E/J resume to jobs@metropolis. co.jp.

To advertise: commercial@metropolisjapan.com

03-4588-2277

WAITER/ WAITRESS WANTED BY CLUB APOLLO TOKYO IN ROPPONGI. Requirements: work at least three days/week for five hours or more between 10pm and 6am, resident card, E/J conversation ability. From ¥1000 -/h. Employees who work more than four days/week receive t ran sp o r t at io n reimb ur se me nt . C a l l 0 8 0 -1 2 1 5 - 6 4 8 8 o r e m a i l apolloroppongi@gmail.com.

KINCARN INTERNATIONAL K I N D E RGA RTE N i n K a w a s a k i i s seeking an English speaker, any nationality ok, to f ill a position: teaching or childcare, 2-6 year olds. School hours: 8am-6pm. Full-time: Mon- Fri (40h/week) ¥215,500~. Part-time: four days/week (32h/week) ¥170,500~. Please email resume to info@kincarn.com. 044-233-3970 www. kincarn.com ORG OG LIO DE L CA SA LTA ITA LIAN RESTAURANT seeks kitchen support staff, dishwasher and service staff. E/J conversation skills necessary, Italian cooking experience a plus, proper visa required, 3 - 4 days/ week ¥1000- ¥1200/h. キッチンスタッフ募集。1F Hiroo Bldg, 3-12-40 Hiroo, S h i b u y a - k u . 03 - 6 41 8 - 5 8 9 6/0 9 0 2776-3182 donorgoglio@gmail.com www.orgogliodelcasalta.com M ETROPOLIS I S S E E K I N G A N E /J BILINGUAL INTERN to join the most successful English-language advertising team (Restaurants & Bars) in Japan. Great opportunity to learn about advertising in an exciting environment. No pay, but transportation provided. Please fax your E/J resume to 03-4588-2278 or email knakashima@metropolisjapan. com

すか？興味があれば連絡下さい。

maldonado_4649@yahoo.co.jp

Mature and sophisticated Japanese, some have said charming, seeking an elegant, passionate, kind SWF. I dream about wild nights as well as sharing the simple pleasures of love. Is that you? imak1_2_3@yahoo.co.jp Mature man for mature woman. Attractive, mature European man, 50, seeks a Japanese lover. I prefer somebody around my age (40s-60s). I am highly cultured and like Japanese ladies very much. vbcfgt@hotmail.com Need love. H an ds ome En gl ish gentleman, moderate build, mid30s, needs beautiful, passionate JF. I am handsome, fun, intelligent, wellmannered and empathic. Let's have romance together. Please send photo w/email. I'm looking forward to hearing from you. edanoki@gmail.com

New in Tokyo. O temachi-based English male. Loves life here. Loves his job. Has great friends. Enjoys photography, walking around with a clear mind, fresh pasta, wine. Would like to meet nonsmoker, mid-20searly 30s. summerfunk@googlemail. com

Professional, educated, outgoing, handsome, looking to date. White American guy currently staying in Tokyo. Would like to grab some coffee or lunch together to start off with and then take it from there. I am really mature and open-minded. brdt7465@ hotmail.com

No English? 銀行で働いてるイギリ

Romance and dating. Very nice and sexy gentleman seeks an older— or much older—woman to have nice dates and a romance. feeltokyo@yahoo.co.uk

ス人が日本の女の子探してる。英語分からない女の子欲しい。 vint.

snap@gmail.com

Pe o p le fro m S o u t h e a s t A s i a, etc. I long for a warm climate and beautiful nature. Women who live in such places are my type. Divorced Japanese, gentle, kind, mid-40s, no kids, seeking someone who will swear eternal love. patri9@excite.co.jp

chubby, open-minded Japanese woman for a loving relationship. enjoylife_321@ yahoo.com Seeking a serious relationship. I'm a SWM neuroscientist, 31, from Manchester, UK, seeking a well-educated, cute Japanese partner, preferably under 28, for a long-term serious relationship. pulerd@hotmail.com

Roppongi lover? White guy seeks funloving girl, 20-25 only, to chill with. titanislander+r@gmail.com

Seeking female swimming mate. I seek a female swim mate for periodical practice after work and weekends. I am a JM, 40, working in central Tokyo. Western female under 45 preferred. youdidntsaythat@yahoo.co.jp

Seeking a pocchari, fun-loving Japanese lady. Passionate, welleducated, successful, nonsmoking, well-traveled married male is seeking a

Seeking fun. SWM, 28, French, seeking people who want fun like me. My life is stable, but boring and stressful. I need excitement for my mental health balance.

If you feel the same way, contact me, please. reydajp@yahoo.co.jp

WM in Tokyo seeking a pretty girl, 18-35. I am tall, white, with blue eyes. I speak Japanese. chrischrisjapan34@yahoo.com

Seeking Japanese female. Polish guy, 51, cool and romantic, not overweight, doing sports daily, seeks Japanese female, 30-50, for a long-term relationship in Tokyo. qqt883hd@piano.ocn.ne.jp

ドイツ人２８歳(結婚). I am 28, seeking a nice JF for marriage. Please send me a mail if you want to know more about me. kkkkeech@i.softbank.jp

Seeking Japanese Muslim. Foreign Muslim man living in Japan is seeking a Japanese Muslim woman for exchanging various topics and for friendship. If anyone is available, please send me a message. serioussa@gmail.com 09018388037

美人? Seeking confident and very attractive woman, 20-30, who also has an excellent personality and thinks there's more to life than LV bags. Must like Englishmen. Send a long, detailed introduction and wait for my reply. be-thebest@outlook.com

Seeking large Japanese girlfriend. Canadian guy, 40s, open-minded, gentle, romantic, positive, seeks overweight girlfriend for long-term relationship in Tokyo. Serious only, please. bbalajan@ yahoo.com Seeking married JF. Nice guy, 40s, gentle, romantic, open-minded, seeks to share great time with a married JF in Tokyo. First, let's meet up over coffee and talk. benjaminbenjamin12@yahoo.com

銀座. White guy working near Ginza seeking a woman, 22-29, to hang out with, have some drinks after work. Make sure you give an intro—I won't reply if you don't. wakaruyo@outlook.com

14.3 WOMEN LOOKING FOR MEN

Seeking mature JF. Cool guy, 40s, positive, romantic, honest, a gentleman, seeks JF, 40s-50s, for a long-term relationship. nnazila73@yahoo.com Seeking Parisienne. Affluent and excellent Japanese architectural engineer is seeking an attractive Parisienne who can speak English. I visited Paris last Dec and would like to know more about the city. Give me the hot info on Paris now. imak1_2_3@yahoo.co.jp Seeking serious relationship. European guy, early 40s, positive, easygoing, gentle, romantic, lots of hobbies, seeking female, 35-55, open-minded, easygoing, enjoys simple things. Speak Nihongo. No busy people, please. bbamian@yahoo. com Seeking serious, chubby JF. European guy, 40, open-minded, easygoing, honest, faithful, seeks a JF who can meet up soon (not too many emails) for a long-term relationship. Let's meet up over coffee and talk. niman429@yahoo.com Seeking the last great love of my life. Your eye color, height, nationality, waist size, blood type and marital status are of no concern. What goes on in your head, behind your eyelashes, in the more mysterious parts of your body, at certain times and in certain moods—that's where I'd be looking to connect. Try and see. slowcruiser@fastmail.fm Serious only. Kind, mature Japanese man who feels lonely is seeking a woman who feels the same. Any nationality, any age, any color. I am open to all your fantasies. Let's meet for a coffee and see where it goes. toshinoris1012@yahoo.co.jp Serious relationship. Sincere, honest American from Hawaii, blond hair, green eyes, nice smile, muscular, working in Tokyo, seeks serious relationship. I have a fun and kind personality, live and work in central Tokyo, am nonsmoking, goodlooking, speak Japanese. johnb254611@ outlook.com Serious, long-term. SWM, 34, welleducated and traveled, with a stable job, seeks true love. If you are 20-30s, warm and caring, and seeking a serious long-term relationship, then please drop me an email. Serious only, no games. No Roppongi girls, please. Lasagna5577@ yahoo.com Single French guy seeking a SJF, 30s, for a long-term relationship. I'm sweet, handsome, 177cm, do sports, live in central Tokyo. I work in advertising and photography. I like travel, onsen, movies. Nihongo mo ok. Email, w/photo. cdgnrt@ yahoo.fr Single, handsome, caring and witty SJM seeks a nice Western or Japanese female for friendship or possibly more. Nonsmokers preferred. If you are interested in exciting and happy times with me, email me now. cioinjapan@ gmail.com SWM for a chat. SWM Brit, 36, seeking a lady for casual, fun dating. Let's meet for a chat over coffee or beer and see if we like each other. No pressure. Life is too short. zzztopsandfingers@hotmail.co.uk UK lady. SJM, 30s, tall, slim, lover of books, films, and music, seeks an attractive British lady with the same interests. hurryondownboy@yahoo.co.jp

S I N G L E S - O N LY D AT I N G EVENTS EVERY FRI NIGHT for foreign men and Japanese women. Leave the event with a new date! Always more women than men. FREE if signing up in advance! Otherwise, ¥2,000. info@exeo-international.com www.exeo-international.com

LAVISH DATES AND INDULGENT NIGHTS—WE CR E ATE O PP O RTU N ITI E S for elite foreign males to meet elegant Japanese females. Start with a luxurious dinner date,take the night where you want it to go. Fresh, young women join our club every day. Try our free one-month trial offer: first date is on us! 0120-675-858 (E) international@ universe-club.jp http://universeclub.jp/en Discover fun in Tokyo together? Travelers welcome—I can show you around! Let's discover nice things: dining, spas, music, vacation, etc. JF, late 30s, friendly, slim, tall, seeking a classy, intelligent gentleman for dating. amynakagawa@outlook.jp Driven to work? Japanese woman, 30s, attractive, elegant, educated, seeks a successful businessman in Tokyo. She feels attracted to a man who is driven to work. He should be sincere and care about her. springwinds14@yahoo.co.jp French gentlem an s o u g h t b y voluptuous JF. Salut, a Caucasian French monsieur is sought by a JF, mid-40s, for a long-term relationship. Répondez, SVP. tama123_123@yahoo.co.jp Fresh start. Attractive, cultured JF, 30s, seeks a good-looking young boyfriend who can possibly have a long-term relationship. He should be Caucasian, nonsmoking, cultured. No one-night stands. nanaironohana24@yahoo.co.jp International-minded Japanese, early 30s, ready to start a relationship. If you are a laid-back, professional/ independent guy of a similar mind, let’s see how it goes. Must be single nonsmoker. Your introduction/photo appreciated. happi_coco14@excite.co.jp JF seeking friend. Hi there, I'm seeking someone who can hang out on weekends. Anyone interested? I'm a student, 22. I live in Kanagawa, but often go to Tokyo. Hope to hear from you! sakurasaku7321@gmail.com Laugh and smile a lot. Let’s chat over a cup of coffee. Warmhearted, polite, chubby SJF, 41, laughs and smiles quite a bit, seeking sweet, sane single Caucasian guy for a serious relationship in Tokyo. camellia.sunflower@gmail. com

Love long walks? Autumn leaves? I'm an athletic, fun SJF, 39, not the Roppongi type. I'm seeking a guy who can have a big laugh with me. Serious, single only, please. enohpi4s@yahoo.ca Love traveling? Attractive, feminine, bilingual, professional JF, enjoys traveling, scuba diving, music, reading, dining out, finer things in life, seeking a mature, sophisticated gentleman, 35-45, for a meaningful relationship. Would love to multiply happiness by sharing. icedcoconutmilktea@hotmail. com

Don't waste time and money

on so-so dental care. Invest in the best.Your teeth deserve it.

Mature JF seeks movie friends. Interested in film festivals (Tokyo International, Swedish, Indian), theater and a fun chat over coffee afterwards? I am 50-ish. Please be around my age, intelligent and cultured. No photo available. altoids301-szka@yahoo.co.jp

3-2-1 Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo Clinic hours: 11:00 am - 8:00 pm Closed: Thu, Sun and National Holidays

03-6435-0993

Oriental beauty. Long raven hair, fine skin, toned yet with a very womanly frame and curves. SJF, educated, fun, brainy, mid-40s, maturity with a girly face, totally bilingual. You: single, articulate, international, hard-working professional American, 40s or older. lemon_somehearts@yahoo.co.jp

www.tsuruki-mita.org/english

Special offer

Professional, cute female seeking a good par tner. Well-educated, independent JF, 30s, seeking a professional, fun, faithful man. Often travel abroad for work, but would like to have a good partner at home. Photo, please. Serious only. mitanon3@gmail. com

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14.6 AND OTHERS Bilingual bisexual couple seeking another bilingual bisexual couple. Simple. happyballoon2@outlook.com Seeking Japanese couple. I am a white European living in central Tokyo. I would like to meet a nice Japanese couple to have a good time together. I can speak Japanese. aloysius171@yahoo.fr

Don’t miss an issue!

15 JOBS 15.1 JOB WANTED NEED A BABYSITTER? My name is Merinda Masuda. I’m 16, great with children and give them 100% attention. Trustworthy, responsible, loving, can do housework while children sleep. Seeking work in central Tokyo. Availab le mos t evening s , S at evenings and Sun. merindababysitter@gmail.com

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RELATIONS YAMATO PRIDE BY GRACE BUCHELE MINETA

The first openly gay person my husband met was American. In fact, growing up in rural Japan, before he got to college, he was kind of under the impression that gay Japanese men were like unicorns and child geniuses—you saw them on TV from time to time, but they didn’t actually exist. He met his first openly gay Japanese person at the 2012 Rainbow Pride Parade in Yoyogi Park. We were both decked out in rainbows and flag hats to support one of our closeted friends participating in the march. Along the way, we met an interracial same-sex couple: A nice American man married to a Japanese man, with a small baby. *The Rainbow Pride Parade is held in April each year

大和プライド私の夫が初めて会ったオープンなゲイの人はアメリカ人でした。大学に入学するまでずっと田舎で育ったため、夫は日本人のゲイはユニコーンみたいにテレビでは見るけど実在しないものだと思っていました。初めて夫がオープンな日本人のゲイの人に会ったのは2012年の代々木公園でのゲイパレードの際でした。私たちはパレードに参加した仲良しのゲイの友達を応援するためにレインボー色の服を着ました。そこで、日本人男性と結婚したアメリカ人男性に出会いました。二人には赤ちゃんがいました。 ※ レインボープライドパレードは毎年４月実施

■ Grace Buchele Mineta is an author who blogs and draws comics about her daily life in Japan at www.HowIBecameTexan.com.

horoscope BY CATHRYN MOE

♥ Love ¥ Money ♣ Luck

ARIES

TAURUS

GEMINI

May 20-Jun 20 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣

Jun 21-Jul 21 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣

Where you would rather be? Or is there no place other than where you are right now? Your mind may flip-flop like a flapjack as you mull over options. With the North Node in your partnership sector, you can break new ground. At the same time, there’s quite a busy underground when it comes to sexy connections and who gets what. Check on agreements you’ve made in the past and see if that’s still what is understood—then just enjoy yourself.

The light of the stars is weighted in your partnership sector. This applies to you even if you’re single: Everywhere you look, you may see couples holding hands or hear songs that proclaim endless love. If you’re involved, you may not have time to catch your breath as your partner fills every nook and cranny of your schedule. With that in mind, there are tasks you can set yourself to: You may even be looking at homes or expanding in some way. Break your personal rules.

If only you could fly above the fray and let the clouds settle where they will. Of course, you can do this, but you will have to land sometime. You’re fine until others start to overbalance what you had in mind—luckily, you’re the negotiating air sign, able to say what needs to be done and encouraging smiles simultaneously. What goes up must come down, but your juggling skills are unparalleled. You’ll be feeling more secure to share secrets soon.

Ever yone has their own special strengths; astrology accentuates the need to “live your chart.” This includes being yourself as opposed to someone else—which is impossible, anyway. This week, your partner may seem like a powerhouse, but the truth is they need your strength and support to carry on. If you’re single, your ability to enjoy a night in or out is enviable to others. Gather your strength as next week is going to be more than memorable.

LEO

VIRGO

LIBRA

SCORPIO

Sep 22-Oct 22 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Oct 23-Nov 21 ♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣ You’re not the type to skim the surface and never look beneath. This week you can let yourself float, stay connected and still be a mystery to others. Focus on the tasks at hand and you’ll find you’ve surfed through what could have been tumultuous waters. While emotions are what motivate you, they can also wear you out, so save yours for your own goals as you discover what really makes you tick. Stability and financial security are yours and coming soon! Go for it.

Mar 20-Apr 18 ♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣

Jul 22-Aug 21 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Apr 19-May 19 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣

Aug 22-Sep 21 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣

CANCER

There may be someone in your orbit who is supportive of you just the way you are—but with Dark Moon Lilith in Leo, who you are is capable of surprising everyone. Oh sure, it may be a tiny whisper in your ear at the moment: You may be watching yourself from the perspective of your previous deeds, which is highly recommended. Jupiter and Juno in your sign suggest you’re safe to move ahead with your latest ideas—and the truth is, they’re probably right.

When you’re in the flow, you know it, and when you’re not, you may feel at loose ends. Isolation isn’t something Virgos crave—it’s just that your environment must reflect who you are, not someone else. Right now, you have Dark Moon Lilith, Jupiter and Juno in your solar twelfth house: They’re kicking up a bit of a fuss as they encourage you to do things your way, and they’re offering you a different kind of support. Be patient: Your dreams are about to come through.

What seems important is about to change. Not because you’ve let go of your goals or your preferences— but you may have spent so much time being there for others that suddenly you have to put yourself first. Obstacles or blocked paths? It takes ingenuity to clamber up and over instead of going straight through. You have something to offer that no one else does: The balance of Uranus and sudden shifts—and it just may be the winning ticket.

SAGITTARIUS

CAPRICORN

AQUARIUS

Jan 20-Feb 17 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Feb 18-Mar 19 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣

Usually, you’re busy wandering the globe or expanding your creative spirit, but right now Uranus is in a beautiful trine aspect to Sagittarius—which means love is a major topic. When it comes to romance and your creative expression, there are all kinds of surprises. Develop your selfacceptance: Who you are is a boon to anyone who comes in contact with you. Know this and be comfortable when you start receiving recognition, if you haven’t noticed it already.

Halloween has its place: It brings the grit and truth of reality, and parodies it—it can shake off fears and ghosts of the past. The more you let it happen, the easier it gets. So much of what has been important is starting to dissolve, but what’s underneath is the real gold. Mars has entered your sign, giving you the energy and focus to make things happen. Assess yourself at your core: What is worth your consideration? If all the world’s a stage, what parts do you want to play?

You’re in the public eye—it’s fun, isn’t it?—and you’re complete in ever y moment: You are already enough. Self-improvement is great, but actually, what others want is to be cared about. They’ll forgive you if everything isn’t “perfect,” because what is? Let the shocks and surprises of what you hear around you be a form of motivation to enjoy what recent luck has brought you. Mars is gearing up to create a breakthrough through the realm of your dreams.

If it seems like you’re doing the same thing over and over, think again: There may be repetition, but you’re also going deeper, and this requires courage. You may feel resistance—right now, you may be creating ways to sabotage your latest opportunity. Don’t you deserve to give yourself a chance? Of course you do! You’re ruled by Neptune, the master of illusion. But the flip side is divine love—that’s what you’re here for! Can you do this? Of course: You were born for it!

Nov 22-Dec 20 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Dec 21-Jan 19 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣

PISCES

LINGO BOX Shikaru（叱る）= scold With an eye on the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, the Cabinet adopted a bill that would lower the legal age for shooting an air gun from 14 to 10.

the small print

San-gai(三階）= third story Chūtai-sha(中退者)= (college) dropout Kumo-no-ito(クモの糸)= spider silk

BY STEVE TRAUTLEIN

Keiba(競馬)= horse races

stats

I FEEL HAPPY BECAUSE I LOOK MORE ATTRACTIVE.”—Mieko Ichimaru, 79, after attending a seminar on

“cosmetic therapy” at a nursing home in Tokyo

AGE IS JUST A NUMBER ⊲Officials ⊲ at the justice ministry will no longer require municipal authorities to investigate birth registrations submitted by new mothers aged 50 and over. ⊲An ⊲ 81-year-old man and his 78-year-old wife in Itabashi-ku were hospitalized after the husband drove their car off the third story of a parking garage. ⊲Members ⊲ of an advisory panel to the education ministry have recommended that fifthgraders take English classes as part of their regular curriculum. ⊲An ⊲ 18-year-old high school student in Akita assaulted his teacher after she scolded him for being “noisy.” The boy was arrested and the teacher was taken to the hospital in serious condition.

PONY UP ⊲A ⊲ court in Osaka ruled that a man who lost ¥810 million betting on horse races can deduct the money from his taxes. ⊲Officials ⊲ at satellite broadcaster WOWOW say they signed up a record 153,000 new sub-

scribers last month, thanks largely to Kei Nishikori’s historic run to the finals of the US Open. ⊲A ⊲ contingent of Ainu and Okinawans traveled to the UN to attend the World Conference on Indigenous Peoples. ⊲Executives ⊲ at DoCoMo say “no financial damage” has been reported in a security breach that affected more than 6,000 customers.

OFFICIAL BUSINESS ⊲Officials ⊲ at Tokyo Metro say they’ll open a new station on the Hibiya line (between Kasumigaseki and Kamiyacho) in time for the 2020 Olympic Games. ⊲LDP ⊲ lawmakers have drawn up a bill making so-called revenge porn a crime punishable by up to three years in prison. ⊲The ⊲ Tokyo Metropolitan Government bestowed distinguished citizen awards on artist Kunitami Mitsuhashi, movie director Yoji Yamada and baseball legend Shigeo Nagashima.

TOUGH ALL OVER ⊲Officials ⊲ at the education ministry say the number of college dropouts is rising, with

at a glance

Number of children under the age of 13 who were victims of kidnapping in 2013, according to the National Police Agency

1,730,567

Used autos sold in Japan during the first half of fiscal 2014—a record low, according to the Japan Automobile Dealers Association

234

Number of train cars that Hitachi will provide to a Dutch railway company in a deal worth some ¥40 billion

“financial difficulties” being the leading cause. ⊲Meanwhile, ⊲ the labor ministry says 22 percent of salaried employees under age 35 work more than 50 hours a week. ⊲Members ⊲ of the Board of Audit claim that, between fiscal 2010 and 2012, medical associations in 34 prefectures overcharged the central government by more than ¥1.3 billion for reimbursements related to treatments for the elderly. ⊲And ⊲ the National Federation of Health Insurance Societies reports that a record number of Japanese people have medical expenses of at least ¥10 million a month.

HOT UNDER THE COLLAR

BY ADAM GARWOOD Check out Adam’s other work here: http://meturl.com/adam3

⊲Japanese ⊲ researchers say they’re having difficulty mass producing spider silk strings. The reason? Arachnids “tend to eat each other if they are kept together.” ⊲The ⊲ government approved a plan by Hokkaido Electric Power Co. to raise its rates by 15.3 percent early next year. ⊲Authorities ⊲ at the Fire and Disaster Management Agency are crediting “a relatively cool August” with the nearly 4 percent drop in heatstroke cases this summer compared to last. ⊲Bottom ⊲ Story of the Week: “More Japanese Turning Nouns Into Verbs in Conversation: Survey” (via Mainichi Japan)

Small Print Updated Weekly → METURL.COM/SMALLPRINT Compiled from reports by AP, Japan Today, The Japan Times, Jiji, The Tokyo Reporter, The Mainichi, The Japan News, AFP, Reuters and Kyodo

the last word

Expanding the Coming Out Narrative FROM CALIFORNIA TO JAPAN CAMERON KATAMARI

WANT TO HAVE THE LAST WORD?

Send your article to: editor@ metropolisjapan.com

fore returning to our normal work routines. Although my friends back home wouldn’t have been satisfied with this quiet acknowledgement of my identity, I felt a sense of relief. I also felt—and still feel—slightly melancholic about the experience. In my JTE’s silent support for my queerness, I realized that my queerness was negligible in the workplace. It didn’t seem to have a place, and I’m not sure it ever will. And that’s been a huge shift for me. Being so invested in LGBT organizing in California meant my queerness had been the center of my identity. It framed my friendships and all the projects I was working on—academic, literary and artistic. But here in the Japanese workplace, other parts of myself were the center: my hobbies, my foreignness and my English ability. Queerness had become compartmentalized, moved around and isolated to particular (and important) spaces in my life outside of work. I no longer see being “out and proud” as the primary way to fly my colors. I’ve found other ways of building community and sustaining it here in Japan. I’m still wrestling with this recent shift in consciousness. Coming to Japan, many sempai ex-pats warned me that Japan was an extremely “closeted” society, where people were too timid to openly embrace their identities. But I don’t feel it’s fair to judge a person (and an entire group of Japanese LGBT folks) based on their “out” status—especially in a culture that’s different from how I was raised. The judgment of Japan as a “closeted” society is insensitive to the real, lived experiences of Japanese LGBT-identified people. And I think it’s time to complicate the discussions on visibility versus invisibility, the value of coming out as a tool of liberation, and the ongoing struggle to define how we—as foreigners—engage with queerness in Japan. Illustration by Christi Rochin

DO WE HAVE TO BE VISIBLE TO EVERYONE, EVEN IF THAT MEANS PUTTING OURSELVES IN DANGER?”

Before coming to Japan to become an English teacher, I was heavily involved in the LGBT community in Southern California. We often discussed the importance of being “out” and being proud of our identities, being confident in who we were, and how our differences produced unique experiences. So one night in Japan, when I found myself slightly tipsy at an after-school nomikai (drinking party) and realized that I was going to come out to my coworker—about to assert my individual identity on to a Japanese person—I was surprised by my hesitation. After all, I had been out and proud with my family and friends in the States for almost eight years. I was following the Western script of declaring space for my identity to be discussed and wrestled with. I was making visible what was previously invisible. And I was doing so in a space that was culturally sanctioned for “taking off the mask,” removing our flawless tatemae and saying what we meant. And yet, there was this sinking fear sitting in my stomach. I remembered the one time at our bōnenkai (year-end party) when our school superintendent scoffed that I was sitting like an okama (a faggot), my legs crossed and tucked to my side in a lazy seiza lean. I remembered the aggressive lecture from my principal to take a date to Suidobashi, and to “take a girlfriend, not a boyfriend.”

At the time, I’d brushed the paternalistic lectures aside, but somehow they’d become lodged in my unconscious. Even as I led my co-worker to the hallway of the small izakaya we were at, I paused, trying to remember why I felt the need to come out to my JTE. Did I want her verbalized support? Did I want to change hearts and minds about queer people? Would she tell people? Would the board of education find out? How would this change the working relationships I had built over the past two years? Do we have to be visible in all parts of our lives? Do we have to be visible to everyone, even if that means putting ourselves in danger—at risk of losing jobs, verbal harassment, fractured relationships?

It wasn’t like I wasn’t open in other parts of my life in Japan. I’d been the Block 3 coordinator of Stonewall Japan for the Kanto/Tokyo area for two years, running events for both the foreign and Japanese LGBT communities. I had my LGBT island, and I had my work island— and I kept them separate. Why did I want to bridge them now? I had very little to gain and possibly a lot to lose. Fumbling for the right words, I took a deep breath and told my JTE I was queer. She gave me a hug and thanked me for letting her know, and she promised to keep it a secret. I found a strange sense of comfort in those words, knowing that I hadn’t caused too many ripples in my workplace relationships. When I showed up to work Tuesday morning, we exchanged quick nods be-

■ Cameron Katamari is founder of bi-annual magazine Homodachi and Friends. http:// meturl.com/homodachi

The views expressed in “The Last Word” are those of the authors alone and do not necessarily reflect the position or opinions of Japan Partnership Co. Ltd. or its partners and sponsors.

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