Metropolis #1010 Aug 2-15, 2013

Japan’s Nº1 English Magazine www.metropolis.co.jp

1010 Aug 2~Aug 15 , 2013

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AUG 2-15, 2013

JESSE VEVERKA

Photo of the week

Submit your snaps at http://metropolis.co.jp/photo.

DUE TO THE SUMMER OBON SEASON, THE NEXT

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METROPOLIS PRINT ISSUE WILL BE OUT ON

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FRIDAY, AUGUST 30

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ONLINE DAILY AND A DIGITAL ISSUE ON AUG 16.

By Jesse Veverka

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03 THE SMALL PRINT 05 UPFRONT 08 ART & ENTERTAINMENT 10 TRAVEL 22 AGENDA 26 MOVIES 27 DINING OUT 31 CLASSIFIEDS & JOBS 37 HOROSCOPE & MEDIA BOX 38 THE LAST WORD COVER DESIGN: KOHJI SHIIKI; PHOTOS: EHIME SAIJO FESTIVAL, MINAKAMI CANYONING & RAFTING– PERRI SILVERSTEIN, FIREWORKS–KIKUO KIKUTA, TAIYAKI PARFAIT–JEFF W. RICHARDS

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By Steve Trautlein

PICTURES “ “THE EXPRESS SEEDS OF HOPE FROM THE ABYSS”

— Mari Shirayama of the JCII Camera Museum in Tokyo, on a trove of 130 recently published photos of Hiroshima taken seven years after the atomic bombing

NEWS FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM ćć A research team led by a professor at Keio University has found mice can tell the difference between paintings by Wassily Kandinsky and Piet Mondrian. ćć In response to wild deer causing damage to local plant species in the Oze marshlands, Fukushima officials say they’ll start “shooting the animals with high-pressure water guns.” ćć Japanese scientists have determined a class of insecticides aka neonicotinoids may be responsible for colony-collapse disorder, which is threatening the global honeybee population. ćć Police in western Tokyo arrested a man who ran a health clinic despite having no medical license. None of the man’s 8,000 “patients” reported any ill effects from the treatment.

MILESTONES ćć University of Tokyo lecturer Isamu Kaneko, who developed the infamous Winny file-sharing software, died of a heart attack at age 42. ćć Labor ministry officials say April was the first month in five years during which the number of households on welfare declined. ćć Authorities at UNESCO have added a document

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Dancers perform at the annual Tabayama Festival in Yamanashi Prefecture,

by Daniel Tang

The Small Print

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GONE FOR OBON

#1010

Percent of Japanese who support the idea of “preparing a document in advance specifying their wishes on medical treatments,” according to the health ministry

written by a medieval Japanese regent—descr ibed a s t he “ world's oldest autographic diar y ”—to their Memory of the World registry. ćć Ta lk about chutzpa h— executives at TEPCO have asked for approval on an electricit y-rate hike that would, in part, be used to fund maintenance on 70 vacant housing units at their corporate dormitories.

BYE-JIN ćć Justice ministry officials say 2012 was the fourth consecutive year the number of foreigners living in Japan declined. ćć As of December 31, there were a total of 2,033,656 foreign residents in the country—a decrease of 0.7 percent from 2011. ćć Chinese nationals account for 652,555 of the foreign population, or 32.1 percent, followed by Koreans at 530,046 (26.1). ćć Foreigners living in quake-hit Iwate and Miyagi increased in number by 3.1 and 2.5 percent, respectively.

BOTTOMS UP ćć Wine officials in Paris have granted certification to a Yamanashi grape known as Muscat Bailey A. It’s the second Japanese grape on their list after Koshu, also from Yamanashi. ćć The Imperial Household Agency announced the Emperor and Empress will visit India in November. ćć Authorities at the Japan Direct Marketing Association say they received 1,030 complaints

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Percent of Japanese who have prepared such documents

CHRISTI ROCHIN

about overseas shopping websites last year, a massive increase from 130 problems in 2010. ćć Engineers at Toyota are investigating a series of accidents in which the automatic-braking system in their vehicles activated without warning.

AND FINALLY... ćć A sur vey by a Tok yo-based home-securit y company found 14.5 percent of single working women in their 20s believe “there are men around them who could start stalking them in the future.” ćć What’s more, 9 percent said they have been victims of stalking and 11 percent that they have dealt with “behavior that verges on stalking.” ćć Officials at the NPA say 623,841 criminal offenses were committed in the first half of 2013—6.3 percent down from last year. ćć The NPA also said that 26 percent of home burglaries “involved unlocked houses.”

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Percent of Japanese workers who are considered “non-regular” employees—a record—according to the internal affairs ministry

COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY AP, JAPAN TODAY, THE JAPAN TIMES, JIJI, THE TOKYO REPORTER, JAPAN PROBE, THE MAINICHI, THE JAPAN NEWS, AFP, REUTERS AND KYODO

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Ebisu stn

Upfront PHOTO BY CHIEKO KATO

work/fun balance

By David Labi

T

he Tokyo branch of worldwide post-production house Cutters opened doors last November in a stunning four-story building in Ebisu. Its international team of artists already provides creative editorial, sound mastering, color correction and video FX to clients including Softbank, Uniqlo, Asahi Beer and Mercedes, as well as a hub for creative types trying to weave their way through Japanese traditional thinking.

Metropolis caught up with US-born editor/managing director Ryan McGuire, who cuts to the chase: “Cutters is not trying just to do business here—we’re trying to change the market.”

The Japanese ad industry is traditionally driven by massive media companies that charge exorbitant commission—meaning many agencies focus on buying spots rather than building a creative product. While Cutters, explains McGuire, focuses on creativity, giving ads more impact at a time when proliferating stimuli are vying for our attention. “If you continue to produce cookie-cutter commercials,” he says, “you don’t stand a fighting chance.”

But if you waltz in doing things differently, don’t you meet opposition? “We only cater for the top one percent of the market, and that’s all we want,” comments McGuire. “We’re not targeting the average Japanese client—but top creatives who want something different.”

What the leaders do, the rest will surely follow.

McGuire’s father set up the first Cutters in 1980, and Tokyo is the fourth location after Chicago, Detroit, and LA—with a NYC unit in the pipeline. About ten people work in the Ebisu house, including four full-time artists, in four exquisitely designed rooms. The casual visitor will be struck by trays of gourmet snacks, beer and shelves stacked with wine—not to mention the roof terrace, and couches you just sink into. Are they bribing us?

axiomatic 千里の道も一歩から

“The drinks and furniture are the trees,” quips McGuire. “The forest is that Japan has a very serious approach to work. But in this business, work should be fun.” Media professionals are typically some of the hardest worked—even by Tokyo standards. “People in the industry have hectic lives and we know what it’s like,” says McGuire. “When you’re here we want you to be feeling it—we want you to relax. We want to take the creative burden.”

The studio offers a six-month internship training program as a potential path to recruitment. “Any chance of change in the industry is through educating,” McGuire explains. That way people can learn “the Cutters way,” and both sides can see if the relationship is right for them. “It’s better than looking at a CV to see what their SAT scores were.”

Cutters welcomes movie folks to “come, have a beer, sit on the rooftop, work, talk.” McGuire describes it as an outpost of the “Resistance.” “In a country that respects

the engineer, the creatives are the minority,” he says.

Such solidarity means Cutters doesn’t just do moneyspinning jobs—they’ll get their hands dirty with indie stuff too. “We always want to be involved in creative production, to maintain that edge that can sometimes get rounded working on commercials,” he explains.

“Plus we want our younger staff to get experience.”

People looking for help on a project are invited to come down. “Our door is always open.” Though they don’t have time to take everything on, they’ll always give advice. Interested folks can also like Facebook. com/cutterstokyo to keep informed of regular events.

Finally, back to business, and what does all this creativity mean for a client’s bottom line? “Better creativity makes a commercial more impactful,” says McGuire, “Increasing awareness of the product leads to more sales.”

3-7-14 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-4540-8860.

Email: timo@cutters.com.www.cutters.com/tokyo

splash tour

old haunt

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Senri no michi mo ippo kara

“A thousand-mile journey begins with the first step.”

ILLUSTRATION BY JUN HASHIMOTO

s it a boat? Is it a bus? No, it ’s Sky Duck! The only amphibious tour of Tokyo (we think) on its main route boards at the Tokyo Sky Tree before bussing off to the shitamachi neighborhood of Kameido —famed for Showa-period shopping arcades and buildings. Then comes the exciting bit.

The quackmobile transforms into a boat and enters the water of the Nakagawa River! The whole tour, wet and dry, takes 100 minutes, happens four times a day and costs ¥2,800/¥1,400 (adult/child). The only problem is the entertaining, interactive commentary is all in Japanese, so non-speakers better go with a patient Japanese-ready companion, or spend the tour enjoying the strange looks of passers by. www.skybus.jp

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lesser known feature of Japanese summers than the shrill semi (cicadas) and the Awa Odori is the proliferation of obon season haunted houses that are really quite a lot scarier than back home. Tokyo Dome’s (www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e; nearest stns: Suidobashi or Korakuen) offering this year will be particularly horrifying to odontophobics. It tells of Meiji-period waif Mitsu, whose long, jetblack tooth naturally prompted her peers to batter her to death. The tooth remained, along with a grudge that was pa s s e d f rom generation to generation until now, whe n M itsu 10 (www.mitsu10.com) will visit all sorts of dental horrors upon unwitting visitors.

Met rop oli s i s g iv i n g away f ive p a i rs of t ickets to Mitsu 10. Email your name, age, gender, postal address and worst Tokyo nightmare to giveaway@metropolis.co.jp by Aug 6.

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This proverb stems from the Chinese philosopher Lao Tse: the importance of slow but steady progress in a spiritual quest. But it also reflects a practical truth, that one must conquer one’s fear and take that necessary initial move.

From Japanese Proverbs: Wit and Wisdom by David Galef (2012; Tuttle; 224pp; ¥1,500), available from major bookstores and Amazon.jp.

The Cutters Tokyo team, with Ryan McGuire third from right

Feature

SNAP, CRACKLE AND POP Explore Japan’s artisanal fireworks this hanabi season

Text by Jesse Veverka, Photos by Jesse and Jeremy Veverka

I

t’s a cold December morning in Niigata as we leave Kamo village for the hills. We pass by fields that in the summer would be verdant with the prefecture’s major agricultural export, rice, but are now just blankets of snow.

As we wind through the palisades of cedars that line the road, the houses disappear and we become aware of an unusual sensation—being in Japan without seeing any people.

Mountains dominate 73% of Japan’s landscape.

Unusable for farming and unpopular for homebuilding in a country based around the concept of densely concentrated residential areas, they are a haven for trees, wildlife and—these ones in particular—an often-overlooked Japanese cultural treasure: hanabi, or fireworks.

It is here, in the forested peaks that rise above the coastal plains, that the country’s 200-odd artisanal fireworks manufacturers continue an ancient craft that originated in China but was perfected in Japan. From tiny senko hanabi (sparklers) to giant ball shells, Japan's iconic fireworks are known as some of the best in the world.

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e’ve just arrived at Abe Fireworks, one of Japan’s most respected builders. We’re here to film the company’s flagship product, the legendary 36” shell, for our new documentary Passfire, the story of the people and cultures behind the world’s most amazing fireworks.

While touring China’s prolific fireworks factories last year, we heard tales of massive globes of flame, known as san shaku in Japanese, that weigh hundreds of pounds and can cost as much as a new car. They are so large, cranes must be used to load them into launch tubes.

There are only a handful of craftsmen in Japan that dare to build such behemoths, and like the days of master sword-makers each one is renowned for his individual style. Abe only makes one or two a month and I am lucky that today he is assembling one of the monsters.

As we watch bag after bag of black powder and stars the size of golf balls being stuffed into this pyrotechnic pumpkin, we realize this is the biggest shell we have ever seen—way bigger than anything in China.

Before making Passfire, we naively assumed that modern fireworks in Japan consisted of imported Chinese shells fired by local technicians, as is the case in many other countries. Although there certainly is some of that (at weddings and smaller occasions), the pyrotechnics forming Japan’s big firework shows are Japanese-made.

Though they cost half a dozen times the price of their Chinese counterparts, the difference in workmanship is obvious.

The Japanese consider the heart of the firework to be the “star”—the small spheres of pyrotechnic composition inside the payload of a shell that catch fire and paint the night sky with streaks of color.

Kazuhiro Negishi makes an isshaku or 12" ball shell.

Building a sanshaku (36") shell at Abe Fireworks.

A worker takes stars rolled with a fresh layer of composition to the drying rack.

Loading golf-ball sized stars into a 36" shell.

Large rolled stars drying.

Japan produces some of the world’s best stars and there is little wonder as to why: while most other countries employ an efficient but fairly coarse industrial process, the Japanese approach star-rolling with the same level of patience and precision that they use for ikebana, or flower arranging.

The stars in Abe’s 36” shell take over a month to roll from start to finish and they are so precious

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each one is carefully wrapped in its own each one is carefully wrapped in its own piece of tissue paper. Some Japanese stars even change color, with different types of composition carefully rolled in onion-like layers on top of each other. The very best have “dark relays” that pass the fire (hence “passfire”) from one color layer to the next without producing light, so the star will first glow one color,

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appear to go out and then glow another.

These are techniques developed in Japan’s family-run factories since the Edo era, which are carefully passed down from master to student. We spoke with Kazuhiro Negishi, a former apprentice of Abe’s who has gone on to become a master shell builder in his own right. “Even though you get covered in dust while making stars,” Negishi explains, “there is nothing like the feeling you get when you see the joy that they create.”

Another former student of Abe’s, Shuichi Koga, has a company called Rokuyouenka whose shells contain up to six concentric layers of increasingly smaller stars that take hours—or even days—to assemble. espite the proximity of China, the Portuguese introduced the precursors of today’s fireworks to Japan in the 16th century.

Pyrotechnics were likely brought into Europe from China some 300 years before. While the Chinese focused on firecrackers to drive away evil spirits, the Europeans developed aerial shells that burst in the sky with bright colors—but these were cylindrical in shape. It was the Japanese who perfected the spherical ball shell—the basis of today’s modern professional fireworks.

The ball shell has come to rule the world of professional fireworks displays across the globe, in large part because it can be made cheaply and efficiently in the large Chinese factories that produce 90% of the world’s fireworks.

When China opened its economy to the world after Nixon’s visit in 1972, fireworks became one of its first exports. The low cost of labor, a favorable exchange rate, permissive safety standards, and a long tradition of fireworks, allowed China to become the world’s top manufacturer in only a few decades. However, large amounts of foreign expertise were necessary and much came from Japan, with many Chinese techs going east to learn the Japanese art while Japanese companies invested in Chinese factories.

This shift, coupled with an increased regulatory burden, spelled the virtual end of manufacturing in Western countries like the US, Canada, England and Australia, but Japan was an exception.

Its grandfather clauses, protected markets, and cultural affinity for perfection allowed its manufacturers to survive, with one important caveat: they don’t export.

With few exceptions, Japan’s fireworks are for domestic use only. That means if you want to see what many pyrotechnicians consider to be the world’s finest ball shells, you will have to see them in Japan. uckily, summer is Japan’s fireworks season and the country boasts some of the world’s most spectacular festivals. And unlike the world’s other large festivals that are based on overt competition, Japan’s tend to be a boutique demonstration of the country’s finest produce.

Take for example the king-daddy, September’s

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Katakai Festival in Niigata, where they shoot 48” shells—the biggest commercially produced shells in the world. Fireworks companies from across Japan gather to launch some of the world’s most expensive specimens. Participants may only shoot a couple shells a piece, and the beauty of individual shells—not the overall choreography of the show (or choice of music)—determines performance.

Japanese people are very aware of what sets their fireworks apart from others—vivid colors that change as the stars burn and almost perfectly symmetrical bursts.

Listen carefully at a summer display and you may hear shouts of “Tamaya” as spectators cheer on particularly beautiful shells. Tamaya Seikichi was an Edo-era fireworker known across Japan for his talent, and spectators call his name as a nod of approval. There is even an anime series called Oh! Edo Rocket based on his exploits and to this day many Japanese fireworks companies have “Tamaya” in their name as a tribute to his greatness. ompared to China, none of Japan’s factories can be considered big, and even Abe’s— which is large by Japanese standards—still has an intimate feel.

Workers know each other well, and many, especially in the small factories, are related. They take tea together and share the work of preparing lunch.

Tasks are often divided by sex, with men mixing chemicals and assembling shells, and women pasting them once they are built. In many factories making fireworks is a multi-generational affair, with knowledge passed on father to son.

Katsushi Haga, of Haga Firworks, is an example.

He is the 19th generation of a family that has worked with gunpowder since the Edo era. His ancestors originally started as armorers, making some of Japan’s early black-powder muskets, and then branched out into fireworks. To this day, part of the family still runs a gun shop—a rare sight in Japan— with a firing range behind their fireworks factory.

Religion also plays an important role in Japanese fireworks. In addition to religious interpretations of the pyrotechnics, factories often have a Shinto shrine, or even a torii (red gate), such as at Haga’s, where workers will pray for safety on a daily basis. Every New Year a priest will bless the factory for continued well-being in the coming year.

Most people only encounter fireworks a couple times a year during special occasions and the vast majority of those are made in China—but the globe’s pyro connoisseurs recognize the features that make Japan’s fireworks unique.

With summer in full swing and festivals running until November, this is an excellent time to check out Japan’s revered, cultural treasure of hanabi.

The Veverka brothers’ documentary Passfire, on the world’s most amazing fireworks, will be released in 2015. Follow the film’s production at www.facebook.com/passfire.

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1) Aug 2-3, Nagaoka, Niigata http://nagaokamatsuri.com One of the biggest fireworks festivals in Japan, with huge shells up to 36” 2) Aug 11, Tohoku Region http://lightupnippon.jp Shells up to 12” lift the spirits of people who suffered through the Tohoku tragedy 3) Aug 24, Omagari, Akita www.oomagari-hanabi.com Omagari is one of the most famous fireworks competitions with high-quality shells up to 12” 4) Sep 9-10, Ojiya, Niigata http://katakaimachi-enkakyokai.info The Katakai fireworks show is famous for having the largest aerial shells, up to 48”!

5) Oct 5, Tsuchiura, Ibaraki http://tsuchiura-hanabi.jp Japan’s other famous competition with specialty shells up to 12” 6) Nov 23, in Nagano www.nagano-cci.or.jp/ebisukou High-quality shells up to 12”

ROCKET WORLD

China: No one does cakes—large arrays of small mortar tubes that fire as a barrage— better than the Chinese.

Japan: Japan makes the world’s biggest and most precise ball shells, bar none.

India: You don’t know loud until you have seen an Indian salute show. With aerial bombs weighing up to 200kg, make sure to pack earplugs.

Malta: Cylinder shells are the European way, and Malta is the epicenter, with multibreak shells as tall as a person and a foot in diameter.

Mexico: The Mexicans make a lot of cool rockets, but their castillos, or giant flaming murals, really stand out.

Thailand: Have a Thai whiskey and Red Bull as you watch a homemade, 1-metric-ton (2,200lb!) rocket touch the stratosphere.

USA: The largest number of pyrotechnic hobbyists in the world produce unique inventions such as ghost mines—mortars that belch colored balls of flaming methanol.

FIREWORKS PHOTOS: ROBERT BURCH

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Arts & Entertainment

ALL THE BEST IN ARTS & CULTURE ACROSS THE METROPOLIS

sports

COURTESY OF SUNRISE PRODUCTION

SOCCER SUMMARY

What’s up past the halfway mark in the Japanese footy season

By Dan Orlowitz

In a country where a national holiday recognizes those who have reached the age of adulthood, it’s no surprise the J-League’s 20th season has thus far been as thrilling as a Fuji-Q rollercoaster. Plenty of action has taken place on the pitch and in the boardroom, where the league plots course for the next 20 seasons and beyond.

stage

GAMARJOBAT

Mime duo jacks Tokyo

By Dan Grunebaum

J

apanese acts that first find success abroad often then have to convince domestic audiences to reimport them in a bit of legerdemain called gyakuyunyu. Something of a fallacy exists that overseas acclaim immediately translates to success here as well.

“We are originally from Tokyo, but ended up performing overseas a lot,” Ketch! (the red-mohawked one) says about comic mime duo Gamarjobat’s trajectory since their discovery at Scotland’s Edinburgh Festival.

“We tour Japan every year but we hadn’t done Tokyo much, so this time we decided to devote ourselves to the capital.”

Not that they’ll be pandering to the masses by doing any Tokyo-themed skits in their three-month tour. “It’s going to be more like a greatest hits, and some music-oriented material,” Ketch! explains. “Hiro-pon will play guitar and do a kind of rock show that combines music and movement.”

While much local comedy is of the head-slapping variety, Gamarjobat get audiences laughing with them, not at them. Characters from hapless cooks hoping to please a fearsome yakuza to a lovelorn boxer with dreams of greatness connect with audiences worldwide, thanks not only to Ketch! and Hiro-pon’s expert physical comedy, but to some timeless insights into the human condition.

“There isn’t much in our material that doesn’t come across anywhere,” Hiro-pon observes. “Unlike verbal language, most body language is universal. We are all born the same way, and experience the same pleasures and indignities, so physical comedy translates easily.”

After extensive study in mime, Hiro-pon and Ketch! met at the Asia Mime Festival in Nagano in 1995. They had four years to hone their act to fluid perfection before taking the name Gamarjobat (“Hello” in Georgian) and becoming a full-time duo.

The pair emerged as a staple of performing-arts

festivals worldwide after the acclaim of winning a Tap Water Award at the 2005 Edinburgh Fringe Festival.

But Gamarjobat remain true to their street performance roots, and are still known to appear in Tokyo’s parks and plazas.

To further explore the potential of mime, Ketch! and Hiro-pon recently formed the Gamarjobat Project.

With their cast of mimes, they have created a series of silent plays—some staged last year in Shinjuku—which portray complex human dramas and relationships.

“Tragedy and comedy are all part of mime, so it’s a natural extension of what we do,” says Ketch! “Most Gamarjobat stuff ends happily. With the Project we experiment with different endings, and leave things partly up to people to judge for themselves.”

“Mime is theater without words,” adds Hiro-pon.

“People express emotions and perform actions all the time without words, and we don’t give it a second thought. There might be a silent love scene in a movie, or Al Pacino in The Godfather might express terrible things without words. Pantomime is something any good actor can do.”

But few do it with the wrenchingly funny skill that Gamarjobat do. While they cite Japanese manzai standup comedy as an influence, the more apt comparison is to their hero, Charlie Chaplin.

Closing the interview, Gamarjobat have a specific message for their expatriate Tokyo audience. “Foreigners in Japan who don’t speak Japanese can’t share laughter with folks here,” Ketch! says. “But if they come to our show they can share a perfect moment with Japanese.”

“It’s lonely to not be able to laugh with everyone,” he continues. “I had that experience watching Mr. Bean in England. Lonesome foreigners in Tokyo should come to our show—and experience a bit of togetherness.”

Various venues, Sep 21-Nov 30. See stage listings for details. www.gamar-jack.com

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Omiya Ardija: Is this their year?

SQUIRRELS LOOK TO UNSTRING ARCHERS Since joining the top flight in 2005, Omiya Ardija have spent most seasons flirting with relegation before finding a way to finish safely in 12th or 13th place. But everything changed when Slovenian manager Zdenko Verdenik arrived last June. After a summer adjustment period that saw several more losses, Ardija went undefeated in the last three months of the 2012 campaign and continued the streak in the beginning of the 2013 season—at one point they won ten straight matches on the backs of Slovenian striker combo Zlatan Ljubijankič and Milivoje Novacovič. As of writing, Ardija are neck-and-neck with defending champions Sanfrecce Hiroshima, who won four straight in July before the league went on break for the EAFF East Asian Cup. With reigning league MVP Hisato Sato in top form with 13 goals from 17 appearances, it’s clear the Purple Archers will not relinquish their crown willingly.

KASHIMA COOKIE CRUMBLES Casual fans may be unaware that the J-League Cup preceded the league itself, starting in 1992 to build up anticipation for professional football in Japan. While the cup tournament has largely taken a backseat to the league itself, the final at Tokyo National Stadium remains a yearly sellout. After winning two straight Cups, Kashima Antlers won’t be able to capture a third after falling to Yokohama F. Marinos in the quarter-finals.

The Kanagawa side will face Kashiwa Reysol in the semi-finals, which also see 2011 runners-up

art

SE I RE NI TY

Photographing tranquility at the ANA InterContinental

By David Labi

PHOTOS COURTESY OF EMON PHOTO GALLERY

Opera series by Kiiro

n the deluxe surroundings of one of Tokyo’s premium hotels, visitors can take a free tour through four differing interpretations of Japanese serenity.

The ANA InterContinental Tokyo is an interesting setting; filled with high-end travelers, many of whom are passing through on business, the lobby's cascading waterfall and babbling voices already form an island of designed tranquility.

T he hotel hosts h ig h-prof i le meeti n g s —P r i me Minister Shinzo Abe is said to visit once a week—and it is among these illust r ious w it nesses that Tok yo-based French curator Caroline Trausch places t he work s of fou r c ont emp or a r y a r ti st s, repre s ente d b y Emon Photo Ga l ler y (www.emoninc.com).

Many Japan v isitors w ill have marveled at how this country brings relaxation to the level of a science. The fiercely knitted brows of someone bathing in an onsen, the suspended sanctity of a manicured garden, silence on the bus—people live in close proximity through harnessing a means of transcendence.

Eriko Koga has travelled to and from sacred Mt. Koya for the past four

Urawa Reds pitted against 2009 runners-up Kawasaki Frontale. The prospect of a showdown between Reds and Marinos, two of the league’s founding clubs, is a tasty one for league officials and main sponsor Yamazaki Nabisco, whose presence gives the tournament the nickname of “the Cookie Cup.”

ASIAN STRUGGLES Much rending of garments and gnashing of teeth has taken place over Japan’s recent impotence in the Asian Champions League. No J-League representatives have won the tournament since Reds and Gamba Osaka triumphed in 2007 and 2008 respectively; since Nagoya Grampus in 2009, none have reached the semi-finals.

After last year’s disappointing performance, the league announced a thorough investigation and implemented policies that would, in theory, help ACL participants progress further into the tournament. But out of four clubs, only Reysol were able to muscle their way past the group stage and into the quarter-finals, where they’ll

years, shooting people and natural features there. Tourists travel there to experience monastic life—a trip of affected tranquility. Koga's works on the other hand provide an intimate view of Koya-san without the intrusion a tourist—namely you—would bring.

Issan series by Eriko Koga

Kiiro’s two large colorful works of flowers in a field have an instant impact, prompting the question of whether it is a photo or a painting, a drawing, or a combination of all these things. A former oil painter, K i i ro br i ngs t he layer i ng a nd

face Saudi Arabia’s Al-Shabab. Nelsinho Baptista’s side clearly learned from their experience in 2012, when they were eliminated in the round of 16. If the Sun Kings can pull off a shock tournament win over larger sides such as China’s Guangzhou Evergrande or Iran’s Esteghlal, they will represent both Asia and Japan at this year’s Club World Cup in Morocco.

STEPS FORWARD—AND BACKWARD Despite a fine product on the pitch, the rise of satellite broadcasting and the departure of many popular Japanese players for European clubs have caused a drop in attendance and club revenues. In an effort to stop the bleeding and increase casual interest in the J-League, officials have spent the last several months evaluating a controversial proposal to return to the “two-stage” season format used through 2004. With the winners from each stage meeting in a hypothetical championship final at the end of the season,

texturing of that approach to photographic design, creating a heady feeling of being in among the wild things—and a contrast to the manicured tradition of Japanese gardens.

Ryo Ohwada provides the other side with his stunning collection of bonsai trees photographed and blown up against a gold-leaf background. The twisted trunks take on the appearance of a major force of nature. Staring at the miniature trees is said to draw the viewer in to become lost in contemplation.

Ohwada's painstaking work splashes this process across the wall meaning you analyze your reactions even as you feel the effects.

One floor under t he lobby, Sa ra h Fujiwara helps you feel as if you have descended into t he water table. She creates her works w it h dif ferent parts of the lotus flower, embedding root and twig and even smearing soil before covering it all with a perspex-like sheen that suspends the splatter on the wall.

The works were created post-3/11, and the visceral rendering of nature evokes the silence before, or after, the storm.

ANA InterContinental Hotel, until Oct 5, see exhibition listings (Akasaka/Roppongi) for details.

proponents claim the format would bring excitement and allow for the sale of naming rights. Non-supporters, on the other hand, have openly rebelled against the proposal, accusing the format of being unbalanced. After a series of mass demonstrations in stadiums across the country, the league announced in July they would delay a decision in favor of continued debate among club representatives.

Less controversial has been the decision to expand in the form of a third division, which will begin competition in 2014. The “J3” will have looser standards for admission than J1 or J2, allowing clubs aspiring to become fully professional to participate.

The league is said to be considering a designated roster spot for Southeast Asian players in consideration of the growing talent pool and commercial interests in the region.

Dan Orlowitz is a writer and photographer at Goal Japan. Contact him at dan.orlowitz@goal.com or follow him (@aishiterutokyo) on Twitter

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 09

Travel

TANCHO CRANE RESERVE IN KUSHIRO

Celebrate the culture of Hokkaido’s indigenous people, the Ainu, at this rich museum. The focus is not on struggle of the people during and after the settlement—aka colonization—of the island, rather an introduction into aspects of the Ainu way of life. Browse a superb display of colorful clothing, marine transportation, craftwork, carvings, tool development, and hunting and fishing tools, and marvel at the building itself—designed to represent a swan with its wings outstretched. Its glass entrance hall is built to mimic the shape of a traditional Ainu tent. ¥450. Open daily 9:30am5pm (Jul-Sep). Getting there: 15mins by bus from Abashiri. www.hoppohm.org/english/index.htm

IWATE

By Mifthanzi Ariana Sarashanti

RYUSENDO CAVE, IWAIZUMI Deep in the eastern base of jagged Mount Ureira, the “cave of the dragon spring” is recognized as one of Japan’s three great limestone caves. Scientists have as yet only explored 3,100m of its estimated 5,000m.

Numerous stalagmites and stalactites have interesting shapes, including a famous one in the shape of Jizo, the guardian deity of travelers and children.

Its most amazing feature, though, is the three subterranean lakes that can be seen on a 30-minute tour, stunningly illuminated by underwater lamps. The third was discovered decades after the first, and its 98m-deep floor can almost be seen through its clear, vivid blue water. ¥1,000.

Kobe Science Museum Tancho Crane Reserve

Ryusendo is a short car or bus ride from the main street of Iwaizumi. Open daily 8:30am6pm. 135min bus from Morioka (¥2,590). Tel: 0194-22-2566.

PHOTO BY ERIKA CLARK

HOKKAIDO MUSEUM OF NORTHERN PEOPLES IN ABASHIRI

Kobe Science Museum

PHOTO BY RS REYNOLDS

HOKKAIDO

By R.S. Reynolds

A group of Japanese cranes (tancho) was discovered in the marshlands of Kushiro in 1924, delighting conservationists who believed the species was extinct. Efforts to rehabilitate the population gathered pace, leading to the establishment in 1958 of the Tancho Japanese Crane Reserve. Today, it’s home to 20 cranes, providing both a habitat for propagation and an academic center for study of the species. The reserve guarantees visitors a glimpse of the impressive creatures and the possibility of viewing young hatchlings in the spring. ¥460/110 (adult/child). Open daily 9am-6pm (May-Oct); 9am-4pm (Oct-May). Getting there: 1 hour by bus from Kushiro station (¥1,410).

Takachiho Gorge PHOTO BY ERIKA CLARK

Hopping around the nation with our JapanTourist contributors

PHOTO BY MICHELLE MADDEN

JAPAN FROM TOP TO BOTTOM

IBARAKI

By Elysse Hurtado

THE OTHER IZUMO Shimane Prefecture’s Izumo Shrine is one of the most venerated Shinto sites in the country. But there is another branch complete with its own traditions and innovations close to Tokyo in Kasama, Ibaraki Prefecture. Legend has it Daikoku, the main kami (god) of the Shimane shrine, began constructing Japan in 871 CE along with Ibaraki’s kami, Sukunahiko-na-okami. Thanks to this connection, a place of worship for Daikoku was built in Ibaraki as well.

Daikoku watches over the spirits of those who have passed on, which is why the shrine has a graveyard on its grounds. However, in addition to the usual stone-based graves, Izumo has implemented a new, more ecological approach to the afterlife. Popular in Scandinavia, eco-burial involves the concept of “returning to the earth” via being buried directly in the earth with a tree planted above, so your body’s ashes may nourish a new life. Izumo Shrine is having a tough time keeping up with the demand for this new style of burial. They also offer tombs for pets, or the option of an eco-burial, so furry family members will be safe in the afterlife as well. Free. Open daily 8am-5pm. Getting there: Joban line from Ueno to Tomobe, then Mito line to Fukuhara. www.izumotaisha.or.jp

GUNMA

By Perri Silverstein

MINAKAMI CANYONING The outdoor adventure capital of Japan offers thrills like skiing, rafting and paragliding every season. Among the lush green of the Tanigawa Range is the Canyons Lodge headquarters where experienced guides, many Japanese and Kiwi, lead participants to some serious canyoning action.

After suiting up in our Neoprene gear, we took a 10-minute bus to the Fox Canyons, where

10 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

the rush of the waterfalls in the distance made hearts race in anticipation. The four guides taught us the safety procedures, as well as the various ways of sliding down the waterfalls, including head-first, feet-first—and Superman style. The rocky, slippery canyon takes some getting used to navigating, with a 1m slide making for a good warm-up. The big daddy of the course was a 20m beast of a drop, which we were able to slide down and jump off of multiple times. One guide wielded a waterproof camera to capture all of our spectacular, wonky-faced moments. The experience takes three to four hours. ¥8,000 including equipment, guide, group photo and insurance. Getting there: Takasaki line from Ueno to Minakami (3 hours) or the Joetsu shinkansen from Tokyo/Ueno to Jomo Kogen (70 mins). http://canyons.jp

TOKYO

By Hannah Morse

KYU-FURUKAWA GARDENS An oft-overlooked spot in Tokyo is this unique garden in Kami-Nakazato, Kita-ku that combines Western and Eastern styles. The property built on a slope originally belonged to Mutsu Munemitsu, a Meiji-period diplomat. The main building that stands there now was designed in the Taisho period by Josiah Conder, using the classic English aristocratic style, while the Japanese garden was created by Ogawa Jihei.

Although the garden is beautiful year-round, try to visit during spring to see cherry blossoms and roses, or at fall to view the brilliant oranges and reds of the Japanese maple. Entry ¥70-150. 1-2739 Nishigahara, Kita-ku. Open daily 9am-5pm.

Nearest stn: Kami-Nakazato or Komagome.

HYOGO

By Erika Clark

KOBE SCIENCE MUSEUM On Port Island, the Kobe Science Museum has

PHOTO BY RORY JACKSON

Takachiho Gorge PHOTO BY MICHELLE MADDEN

USHIMADO SHINTO SHRINE A few hundred meters through dense forest has you climbing up stairs through a tunnel of green.

The stairs are a rhythmic ascension that isn’t too hard on the legs, and you’ll find the inevitable little old ladies scurrying up to the top. After the first flight there’s a lookout with decent views over part of the town and the islands. It makes for a nice rest but if you’re looking for a quality vista you’re better off checking out the Olive Gardens on a different hilltop. Keep on walking and you’ll head into another tunnel of trees and more stairs, though it’s only 90 meters to the shrine at this point. There’s something mystical about the walk up the stairs— it has the feel of old Japan elusive in today’s world of tour buses and “Don’t step on the grass!” signs.

T he sh r i ne is ded icated to t he legendar y Empress Jingu—popularly known as the

Trails from the mountaintop Senkoji Park meander down to the sea, passing a treasure trove of sights. Forget the iPhone—this maze of paths is far too intricate to appear on any map app. Just follow your instincts and see where you end up. You’ll be amazed at how a bustling city can be just minutes from quaint hillside living. Narrow dirt paths turn into cobbled streets which weave between tightly packed houses and bring you unexpectedly face to face with historic temples. Tiny bars and cafés tucked into the mountainside will have you squinting to check your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you. Getting there: Sanyo line from Hiroshima to Onomichi. Walk 15 mins to the ropeway (single ride ¥280), to ride up and wander down.

ONOMICHI TEMPLE TRAILS

PHOTO BY RS REYNOLDS

HIROSHIMA

By Chantelle Silva

Tancho Crane Reserve PHOTO BY CHANTELLE SILVA

godmother of Japan. The decent-sized complex has plenty of moss and maple trees to give it that authentic Japanese atmosphere. The amiable chief priest, Yoshihiro Okazaki, loves to chat in English if you have questions or just fancy a chat.

Try to make it on August 30 for the annual summer festival. Participants walk through a large grass ring three times, offering up their wishes to the shrine.

Getting there: Car or taxi from Oku station to Ushimado swimming beach, where you’ll find the stairs to the shrine.

PHOTO BY PERRI SILVERSTEIN

Ushimado Shrine

Furukawa Gardens

PHOTO BY RS REYNOLDS

By Rory Jackson

Minakami Canyoning and Rafting

PHOTO BY RORY JACKSON

OKAYAMA

Onomichi Temple

PHOTO BY HANNAH MORSE

PHOTO BY CHANTELLE SILVA

Onomichi Temple

five stories of exhibits plus a planetarium, and is packed with interactive elements permitting fun learning for visitors of all ages. A hang-gliding simulation, optical illusions, a room that throws you off your balance, and demos of experiments are some of the activities on offer. Perhaps the most memorable, however, is the technolog y room featuring robots with various skills. Some play the keyboard, others draw simple shapes. But the newest robot, Shin-chan, is capable of simple conversation, singing, dancing, and even playing “rock, paper, scissors.” Shin-chan can also draw a picture of you, singing while it works. Entry ¥300-600, planetarium ¥200-400. Open Mon-Fri 9:30am-4:30pm, Sat-Sun & hols 9:30am-7pm.

Nearest stn: Minami-Koen (Kobe). www.kobekagakukan.jp/english

PHOTO BY CHANTELLE SILVA

Ushimado Shrine

PHOTO BY MIFTHANZI ARIANA SARASHANTI

Ryusendo Cave

Minakami Canyoning and Rafting

Hokkaido Museum of Northern Peoples

Onomichi Temple

MIYAZAKI

By Michelle Madden

TAKACHIHO GORGE Hardened lava from the largest active volcano in Japan, Mt. Aso, was eroded by the Gokasegawa River. The result is a beautiful gorge with aquamarine water surrounded by columns of volcanic basalt. Rent a rowboat during daytime hours (¥2,000/30 mins) and row past these high walls, contemplating the geological processes that formed this site of exceptional natural beauty in Kyushu. Getting there: Two-hour bus from Kumamoto station (¥2,300 one way).

Read the full versions of these stories at: http://japantourist.jp

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 11

SUMMER TOURISM SPECIAL CUTLERY TSUBAYA Asakusa Gifts MENU • Japanese hocho knives—¥3,800-600,000 • Western knives—¥2,500—80,000 • Custom-made knives—price varies

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very chef knows a good knife is essential to the craft, and this is a fine first stop. Started in 1952 as a family business, Tsubaya now has an international reach, shipping knives all over the world. The blades are hand-made in Ibaraki Prefecture, and proprietor Saito can explain the stories behind each in English. Knowledgeable staff are also on hand to help you make an informed decision.

Customer service is just one of the many aspects of

Tsubaya that put it a cut above the competition.

There are versatile kitchen knives to suit most budgets, but it’s also fun to peruse the high-end, specialized products. Look out for the wood-like grain patterns on some knives. They are made with folded Damascus steel—the strongest have 101 layers. But the stunning centerpiece—a ¥680,000 katana-like maguro (tuna) blade housed behind glass near the front entrance—is as fascinating as any museum exhibit.

3-7-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku 03-3845-2005

WEBSITE

tsubaya@guitar.ocn.ne.jp Open Fri 9am-5:45pm, Sun & hols 9am-5pm Asakusa or Tawaramachi http://e288.jp

Special offer

KAMATA HAKENSHA (KENMAX INC.) Asakusa Gifts

Metropolis readers making any purchase over ¥10,000 will receive a large nail clipper for free.

MENU • Japanese 17-layer-steel 2-knife set, hard case, ¥17,400 • 17-layer stainless steel Santoku, ¥6,200 • 17-layer stainless steel Santoku with Japanese wooden handle, ¥9,800 • 17-layer stainless steel small knife, ¥7,500 • 63-layer cobalt stainless steel 2-knife set with hard case, ¥21,400

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stablished in 1923 with a history spanning four generations, Asakusa cutlery maker Kamata Hakensha knows how to slice it. The company’s 800-strong product lineup includes topgrade handmade knives as well as factory-made ranges.

These blades have made repeat customers of some of the world’s finest chefs, thanks to stringent

TOKYO PEARL

quality checks and a 100-percent satisfaction guarantee. All the knives are designed by the owner, created by skilled craftsmen, and individually edged.

Free engraving and an inexpensive sharpening service seal the deal on a fine gift idea. They can engrave your name for free on any knife selected in just three minutes. Perfect for a gift or souvenir of your stay in Tokyo.

2-12-6 Matsugaya, Taito-ku 03-3841-4205

WEBSITE

Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, closed Sun Asakusa or Tawaramachi http://kap-kam.com/en

Ginza Gifts

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earl jewelry has been used as personal decoration in diverse civilizations since ancient times, and it remains an instantly recognizable sign of taste and class.

But buying pearls as a thoughtful gift for a loved one need not break the bank. Tokyo Pearl’s upscale location in the high-end neighborhood of Ginza is matched only by its variety of wonderful designs.

12 ● SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

The iridescent spheres are placed by skilled artisans in a range of settings, including rings, necklaces and earrings. But the quality of the goods and the fancy environs should not scare off any potential buyers on a budget.

Visit the website or step into the store itself to talk with experts and find something that fits your purpose, your taste, and your desired price.

6-16-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku 0120-008-670 (toll-free) Open Wed-Mon 11am-7pm, closed Tue & hols (closed Aug 13-15) Higashi-Ginza www.tokyopearl.com

WEBSITE

354 CLUB Shibuya Outings

T

ired of going to clubs in Tokyo that might as well be anywhere else in the world?

You won’t have that complaint at the new 354 Club in Shibuya. The venue prides itself on integrating elements of Japanese culture into its vibe in a fresh and exciting way. Which other club has its own mikoshi portable shrine that you can haul around as if you were at a Japanese festival?

Another common spectacle there is that of a kagami

wari, or sake drum ceremony, to get the hearts pumping even as the liquor keeps flowing.

The menu includes tasty snacks, many with locally-sourced ingredients, and the full drinks list includes, of course, a variety of sake from around Japan. All this can be enjoyed amid a sultry and stylish décor featuring an ero-guro (erotic-grotesque) mural of an octopus ravishing a geisha. What more could you ask for?

B1F Jow Bldg, 30-5 Udagawacho,

Shibuya-ku 03-6455-0225 Open Mon-Fri 6pm-5am, Sat noon-5am, Sun & hols noon-midnight Shibuya http://354club.com

WEBSITE

HORUMON DEDESUKE Ginza Outings

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mong the high-class avenues of historic Ginza, there is an affordable, top-quality yakiniku place to put paid to your carnivorous cravings. Instead of purchasing different cuts of beef like other restaurants, Horumon Dedesuke leaves nothing to chance. Its practised chefs buy up a whole cow every month. And it’s not just any basic bovine they’re talking about. They make sure to purchase an A5-ranked kuroge wagyu—famed as source

of the best meat this side of a Buenos Aires steakhouse.

Step in for a hearty dinner—or a juicy weekend lunch. Peruse the menu, or talk to the chefs so they can carefully match something to your taste and appetite.

Among the recommended cuts are the 450g steak seared on a hot iron plate, or the 350g wagyu steak for a slab of pure joy. The restaurant is open well into the early hours for those requiring a meaty end to a night out.

1F Kaneko Bldg. 3-3-9 Ginza,

Chuo-ku 03-5250-7767 Open Mon-Fri 5pm-5am, Sat 11:30am-5am, Sun & hols 11:30am-11pm Ginza or Yurakucho www.dedesuke.com

WEBSITE

NEW LEX TOKYO Roppongi Outings MENU

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veryone who’s anyone passing through Tokyo makes sure to stop at the party capital, New Lex Tokyo. Hollywood stars, rock legends, and models from home and abroad all routinely pass through its doors to imbibe some of the

city’s distilled nightlife. Also known as New Lex Tokyo and Lexington Queen, the pumping club is presided over by the Godfather of Tokyo expats, Bill Hersey, and offers a range of musical offerings, a stylish interior, and a menu packed with nourishment. Despite its exclusive reputation, New Lex Tokyo is welcoming to all, with an entry fee ranging from ¥1,000-4,000 and always including at least one drink or dish. Check the website for a full list of upcoming concerts, dance nights, and parties—including discount opportunities for the keen of eye. Just around the corner from the hub of Roppongi Crossing, New Lex Tokyo should be on everyone’s checklist.

Entrance fee: • Men—¥4,000 (w/3 drinks or dishes) • Ladies Fri-Sun, Tue & Wed—¥3,000 (w/3 drinks or dishes) • Ladies Mon-Thu—¥1,000 (w/2 drinks or dishes) • VIP charge—¥2,000 • Royal VIP charge—¥3,000

B1F, 3-13-14 Roppongi,

Minato-ku 03-3479-7477 Open Sun-Wed 11pm-5am, ThuSat 9pm-5am Roppongi www.newlex-edo.com

WEBSITE

#1010 ● WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP ● 13

SUMMER TOURISM SPECIAL OREGON BAR & GRILL

Special offer

Shinbashi Outings

Mention Metropolis to claim a free glass of beer at dinner MENU • • • •

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east while feasting your eyes on the city skyline at a breathtaking height of 200m.

Oregon Bar & Grill is based on the 42nd floor of Shiodome City Center, making for a meal that will literally expand your horizons. Through the wide window that spans the walls, take a tour of Tokyo without leaving your seat, starting from the centerpiece of Tokyo Tower right in front, and the resplendent Skytree not too far behind. On clear

ROBOT RESTAURANT

days you can even see the imperious cone of Mt Fuji.

Oregon Bar & Grill matches its spectacular view with a spectacular menu. A variety of seasonal cuisine, carefully selected fresh seafood, and Japanese beef, dry aged for 30 days all come highly recommended.

Match them with local tipples from Oregon State, including beer and more than 150 kinds of wine.

Meanwhile, the casual lunch offers up a salad bar and grilled dishes.

Assortment of nine kinds of appetizer—¥3,600 Grill of lobster—¥5,800 US Angus beef 8 oz—¥5,000 Dry-aged Japanese beef 8 oz—¥6,900

42F Shiodome City Center

Bldg, 1-5-2 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku 03-6215-8585 Open daily 11am-11pm (lunch 11am-2:30pm; dinner 5-10pm) Shinbashi or Shiodome www.restaurant-mrs.com

WEBSITE

Shinjuku Outings

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ho hasn’t seen the large Valkyrie-like female robots on their truck whizzing around Tokyo to a pumping soundtrack?

These pulchritudinous automatons are waiting in the heart of Shinjuku’s Red Light District at the Robot Restaurant. The venue is a dizzying design of gold, glittering mosaics, and shiny surfaces. The all-action show involves massive robots, teams of bouncy dancers, mindblowing flying machines,

TEPPANYAKI SASASHIGE

and more. And the best part is the punters can mount the droids themselves—watch them move as you pull the levers!

Lest you think this a guy thing, the audiences are always a merry mix, and girls enjoy mounting the maidens as much as the boys do. Reserve up to seven days before your visit, and confirm by phone one hour before the show. The future is kaleidoscopic and robotic... and an unforgettable experience.

MENU • ¥5,000 including drinks and food

B2F Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1

Kabukicho, Shinjuku 03-3200-5500 Open daily 6pm-11pm Shinjuku www.robot-restaurant.com/E

WEBSITE

Roppongi Outings MENU • Course menu—¥5,000/8,000/12,000

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ecognized in 2011 as Japan’s number-one teppanyaki restaurant by readers of a prominent food mag, Sasashige’s chefs haven’t let it go to their head. They still provide a relaxed atmosphere for enjoying the fine food and wines on offer.

What attracts Hollywood stars and famous musicians to this out-of-the-way spot is its original menu of carefully selected ingredients. In fact, the staff travel all over Japan to bring home the best.

14 ● SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Sit at the counter in front of a 7m teppan (iron plate) to watch the chefs’ skills up close. Particularly recommended are the sirloin steak of southern shinsyu beef—premium Japanese meat selected from the nation’s top-grade cattle—or the chateaubriand of A5-grade beef. Tell ’em how you want the meat done.

Vegetarians are always welcome at Sasashige. The capable cooks can prepare a special course adjusted to your requirements—just let them know in advance.

2F Oyama Bldg , 2-13-15 Nishi

WEBSITE Azabu, Minato-ku 03-5774-4439 Open Mon-Fri lunch 11:30am-3pm; dinner 6pm-2:30am, Sat 5pm-2:30am, Sun & hols 5-11pm Hiroo or Roppongi http://r.gnavi.co.jp/p775400/lang/en

YAMANO Akihabara Outings MENU • Aitchbone 80g/¥1,700 • Rump beef 80g/¥980 • Sirloin 80g/¥2,600

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5 is the highest grade of kuroge wagyu—a particularly succulent type of Japanese beef. And that is what you’ll get at Yamano, a yakiniku restaurant just one minute’s walk from Akihabara station. Yamano’s culinary crew prepare their own yakiniku sauce to make the wagyu shine, or you can opt for rock salt. Another option for the citric palate is ponzu dipping sauce. Try each and find out what works for you.

2F Atsumiyakuhin Bldg, 1-21

Popular at Yamano are meat with marbling, rump beef, skirt steak marinated in a special sauce, and the king of beef—sirloin. But it doesn’t stop there. Try the full selection of high-quality carne—at an affordable price. Yamano also offers meat and vegetables grilled in miso sauce, and fresh organs (horumon) cooked in a Japanese hot pot with Osaka-style soy-sauce soup. Vegetable dishes are available too, as well as a host of other options à la carte.

Sakumacho, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku 03-3253-3329 Open Mon-Fri lunch 11:30am-2pm; dinner 5:30pm-10:45pm, Sat 5-10pm, closed Sun & hols Akihabara www.yamano29.com

WEBSITE

Special offer

HOTEL METROPOLITAN MARUNOUCHI Tokyo Trips

Mention Metropolis at check in for a breakfast discount ticket ¥2,300 → ¥1,800 (Valid until Mar 31, 2014)

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otel Metropolitan Marunouchi sits at the heart of Tokyo—one minute from the Shinkansen, 30 minutes from Haneda Airport, under an hour from Narita, and a five-minute taxi ride to the high-end downtown of Ginza.

The hotel is situated in Sapia Tower, certified eco-friendly by the City of Tokyo. All rooms are equipped with free wi-fi, and tall ceilings with large windows create a luminous and luxurious atmosphere. Don’t worry about the nagging to-do list you

might have—there’s a 24-hour business center on hand exclusively for guests.

Dining & Bar Tenqoo on the 27th floor offers a spectacular 120m-high view of the beautiful, reconstructed Tokyo Station. The chefs use only the finest, freshest ingredients in the contemporary menu. Japanese flavors like wasabi and miso are carefully added into French dishes, combining the best aspects of each nation’s cuisine in a wonderful fusion—with ochazuke at the end of your meal for a final flourish.

WEBSITE

27-34F Sapia Tower, 1-7-12 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku

03-3211-2233 Tokyo or Otemachi www.hotelmetropolitanmarunouchi.jp

KASAMA NICHIDO MUSEUM OF ART / GALLERY NICHIDO Ibaraki/Nagano Trips

Kasama

987-4 Kasama, Kasama-shi, Ibaraki

0296-72-2160

Kasama Nichido Museum (annex)

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or an edifying art experience amid stunning nature, Kasama Nichido Museum of Art is a short trip from Tokyo in Ibaraki Prefecture.

As well as from the surrounding hills and forest, you’ll gain inspiration from works of art created all over the world. Van Gogh, Degas and even Andy Warhol are represented, along with masters of Japanese contemporary works, and there is an sculpture garden for an outdoor art injection. Explore a reconstruction of the house of Japanese artist Kitaoji

Gallery Nichido (Karuizawa)

WEBSITE

Open daily 9:30am-5pm Tomobe or Kasama (plus city bus) www.nichido-museum.or.jp

Rosanjin—an architectural specimen from the mid-18th century. Visitors often spend a whole day perusing the complex in their own time.

If you’re on the road to Nagano Prefecture, make Karuizawa sure you do your very best not to miss the Nichido’s sis 955 Kyu-Karuizawa, ter gallery in the gorgeous summer resort of Karuizawa.

Karuizawa-cho, Nagano The museum, open only during summer months, is 0267-42-5671 situated among spectacular scenery, and offers a won Open daily 10am-7pm derful range of different artworks to stimulate your Karuizawa senses. www.nichido-garo.co.jp

WEBSITE

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ADVERTORIAL

The Lovely Maiden Of Japan

Rustic romance in Shikoku’s Ehime

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hime is one of four prefectures on the island of Shikoku in southwestern Japan. Shikoku means “four countries,” and today’s prefectures correspond to the four domains that existed in Japan’s feudal age. In feudal times, the area was known as Iyo, a word still found in many of its place names. Ehime is made up of the kanji for “love” and “maiden”—hinting at the kind of poetic tranquility found there.

Locals use a distinctive dialect, Iyo-ben, which chiefly consists of adding “ken” to most utterances, and replacing “so” with “ho.” So the standard Japanese phrase “so nan desu kedo” (“but anyway”) transforms into “hoya ken.” Pepper your speech with this phrase and people will soon think you are a native.

Matsuyama is the prefectural capital—a compact city centered around a dramatic hilltop castle. From the castle tower, gaze upon the Seto Inland Sea dotted with islands stretching into the hazy distance. On the other side, the city slopes gently up to the mountains. Just

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beyond the center is Dogo Onsen, said to be the first hot spring to be used for bathing in Japan.

Dogo Onsen Honkan, the fabulous Meiji-era bathhouse, inspired one setting in Studio Ghibli classic Spirited Away. For a modest fee, take a dip in the venerable waters, and lounge afterwards in a stylish yukata sipping green tea.

T he r u ra l sout h of Eh i me—k now n as “Nanyo”—looks much as it has for centuries, with ancient hamlets appearing at long intervals between river and mountains. But despite its apparent isolation, Nanyo residents have played a surprising international role in science and technology, as well as inventing the world’s first white candles—which stole the show at the Paris Expo of 1900. The more industrial east—or “Toyo”—features paper mills, factories of products like the prestigious Imabari Towel, and shipyards. Boat building isn’t commonly associated with beauty—but most people haven’t seen pristine vessels taking shape against a backdrop of bamboo groves around Ehime’s island shipyards.

Shimanami Kaido Cycling

IMABARI Matsuyama Castle

Dogo Hot Spring

MATSUYAMA SAIJO

Matsuyama Airport

Historic Streets of Uchiko

Tobe-yaki Ceramics

Garyu Sanso Hermitage

EHIME

UCHIKO Cormorant Fishing

OZU MATSUNO Underwater Sea Walker

Canyoning

AINAN

Spring water & Saijo Festival

Mt. ishizuchi

Iwayaji (Shikoku Pilgrimage)

NIHAMA

Niihama Festival

KOCHI

INLAND ISLANDS

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hime is part of the Setouchi region that borders the Seto Inland Sea, which became a National Park in 1934. The first visitors to Japan were struck by the extraordinary beauty of the shimmering sea dotted with pine-clad islands, some ringed with sandy beaches, others plunging straight into the water. Largely isolated for centuries, each island has its own character and customs—and many are home to some interesting art installations. Recently, some of them have been joined by bridges, notably the Shimanami Kaido. But otherwise, picturesque little ferries are the only way to get there. The Uwakai Sea facing southern Ehime also has its sprinkling of islands, where pearls are cultivated in the calm channels and protected coves. A stylish pearl accessory from Uwajima makes a great souvenir of a visit to this charming region. http://en.japantourist.jp/city/uwajima

IYO SUIGUN

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lthough the sea looks plac id f rom a fa r, it s u nique u nder water topography produces complex and rapid currents hazardous to unwary seafarers. Islanders used their intimate familiarity with the sea first to rob merchant ships, and later to control all seaborne traffic. Originating as pirates, they morphed into an armed coastguard, and later into a powerful regional government that maintained independence for centuries. Collectively, the various bands were called the Iyo Suigun (navy).

Their impact on Ehime can be seen everywhere—their crest of three wavy bars in a circle or hexagon is found on buildings and banners throughout the middle of the prefecture. The Murakami Suigun Museum on Oshima Island presents their ships, armor and culture in compelling displays. On the islands where they once built their wooden warships, shipyards today produce some of the world’s most advanced steel vessels. http://en.japantourist.jp/view/murakamisuigun-museum

CULINARY CULTURE

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hime is an agricultural area with a mountainous interior and a long coastline. Its topog raphy and mild, Mediterranean climate have spawned a sophisticated but wholesome culinary culture.

The powerful currents of the Inland Sea produce fish firmer, richer and sweeter than elsewhere—visitors are often surprised by how much nicer the sashimi tastes.

Although the region is one of the largest producers of citrus, farmers also grow excellent grapes, figs, and kiwifruit. Enjoy them as they are, or seek out the region’s innovative pâtissiers and brewers who work them into exquisite cakes and liqueurs.

Wild boar and pheasant are abundant in the mountains, and these game meats grace the menus of all styles of restaurant.

Ehime is also home to excellent sake breweries or sakagura. Nothing beats a visit to a rural kura to purchase a bottle under the old wooden beams.

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ADVERTORIAL

HISTORIC STREETS

U MATSUYAMA CASTLE

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atsuyama Castle stands on a significant hill in the middle of Ehime’s prefectural capital, with an extensive moat and earthen ramparts that dominate the city center.

Unlike many Japanese castles that were destroyed and rebuilt of concrete, Matsuyama Castle is still in its original state of wood and plaster.

As if the building itself and views weren’t interesting enough, a number of other things have been provided for your entertainment. You can dress up in a full set of replica armor, making yourself look like a rare giant insect, and fascinating exhibits show off armor, weapons and clothing.

A pleasant chairlift takes you to within a short stroll of the hilltop. Even if you don’t go inside the castle, there are fine views from the fortifications on top of the hill. In early spring, the castle grounds are pink with flowers, first of plum, then of cherry blossom.

chiko is a small town that lies at the bottom of a river valley surrounded by spreading rice fields. Looking at this quiet, bucolic scene today, it’s hard to imagine the place was once an economic powerhouse, with a flourishing culture producing sophisticated architecture and arts.

Uchiko developed as a manufacturing center for paper and wax from the end of the Edo period to the end of the Meiji period. The main streets are lined with the extravagant premises that business families built as a mark of prestige. These feature white or yellow plaster walls, wooden or metal lattices, and decorative tiling and plasterwork.

The Uchiko-za theater is still used for kabuki and bunraku puppet performances. Along the streets are shops selling seasonal local produce, including the local huge sweet chestnuts. Eat in style in many of the cafés and restaurants, such as the historic Shimohaga-Tei restaurant. http://en.japantourist.jp/view/uchiko -za-the-historical-kabuki-theater-in-uchiko http://en.japantourist.jp/view/ Shimohaga-Tei-restaurant

THE SHIKOKU PILGRIMAGE

T TOBE-YAKI CERAMICS

D GARYU SANSO HERMITAGE

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his Meiji-period “mountain hermitage” was created by wealthy trader Torajiro Kochi when Ozu was a thriving center for paper and candles.

Kochi had extravagant ideas and the planning alone took ten years. The building’s design incorporated a large number of more or less eccentric demands—for example, that the light of the full moon ref lected off the river should appear on the curved basketwork ceiling of a little annex.

There are many visual puns, with names to match.

Construction took four years—hardly surprising considering the intensive craftsmanship visible in every corner. Garyu Sanso was finished in 1907.

Staff are very friendly and will gladly show you everything, such as the “borrowed landscape” effect often seen in Japanese gardens, where distant mountains and rivers appear to be part of the garden. http://en.japantourist.jp/view/ozu-city

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rive 40 minutes from the center of Matsuyama to encounter a slender 15m-high white tower, which marks the entrance to the town of Tobe. It’s decorated with 560 china plates from each of the local potters, as a symbol of the town. It was built to show future generations the passion of Tobe’s ceramists, and to catch the imagination of visitors.

Tobe-yaki is a traditional Japanese industrial art using materials produced in the area. Typical designs have a pure white base with characteristic designs in indigo blue. These beautiful works have devotees from all over Japan, thanks to their robustness and practicality.

In recent years, young ceramists have been eschewing traditional materials and designs, taking Tobe-yaki in new directions, and maintaining the character of the town, with its f lourishing industry based around craftsmanship.

he Shikoku Pilgrimage is a circular route taking in 88 Buddhist temples on Japan’s fourth island. These temples are associated with the Buddhist monk Kukai, more generally known as Kobo Daishi, who founded the Shingon sect of Buddhism. The pilgrimage is an integral part of Shikoku’s culture, and the gentle welcome offered to ohenro (pilgrims) is extended equally to other visitors. 2014 is an auspicious year to undertake the route, as it marks the 1,200th anniversary of the pilgrimage.

In the past, all ohenro walked, but today many go by bicycle, car, or bus, often doing the pilgrimage in stages over a period of time. The spectacular temples in Ehime include Ishiteji in Matsuyama, and Iwayaji in Kuma Highland.

SPRING WATER

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ocated bet ween the sea and Mt. Ishizuchi, Saijo is a city known for its spring water. Ishizuchi, the highest mountain in western Japan, is white w it h snow in w inter.

As the snow melts, the water seeps i nto t he g rou nd a nd emerges again from a multitude of springs. These are called uchinuki. This clean, sweet water from the snows of Ishizuchi refreshes the people of Saijo in the hot months, and provides one of the key ingredients of the area’s excellent sake.

Uchinuki bubble forth in many public places and you can take a tour of the springs on foot or by bike. One of the most impressive rises from the sea at the mouth of the Honjin River. It’s dedicated to Kobo Daishi, founder of the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

CORMORANT FISHING

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kai is a traditional method of catching river fish using cormorants. Ozu is one of the three major places in Japan where this splendid water show can still be seen.

A roofed pleasure boat takes you out on the Hijikawa River, where a dinner of local cuisine is served. Watching the master managing his team of birds and throwing the fish into his boat is an impressive sight. Ukai is held during the daytime and at night, so you can enjoy the performance with a backdrop of the beautiful scenery around the river, or with dramatic torchlight at night. The cormorants are treated as family by the fishermen, and they typically live longer, healthier lives than their cousins in the wild. Watching cormorant fishing is an entertainment for the warmer months.

SHIMANAMI KAIDO CYCLING

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chain of islands straddles the Inland Sea between Imabari in Ehime, and Onomichi in Hiroshima. These are linked by the Shimanami Kaido, a highway with spectacular suspension bridges over the sea passages. Unlike most expressways, the Shimanami Kaido has a lane for pedestrians and cyclists.

The ability to cross this spectacularly beautiful island route on a bicycle offers a bonanza for cyclists of every sort, from casual day trippers to serious riders who eat up the miles. It’s also very attractive for motorists and motorcyclists, but cycling is perfect for gazing at the scenery, and peering over the railings at the ships passing below amid the fascinating currents of the sea.

Although it’s possible to complete the route in a single day, it’s best to dedicate some time for exploring the islands. For cyclists without their own bikes, there are rental stations along the route offering all sorts of models at reasonable rates. You can even rent at one place and drop off at another for ultimate flexibility, and the route is served by buses and ferries to Shikoku and Honshu. You can also get a bus between Imabari and Hiroshima, while a regular ferry links Matsuyama and Hiroshima.

Each island has its own character and attractions. Omishima has several art galleries and Oyamazumi Shrine with its treasure house of samurai weapons. Hakata has a number of wonderful beaches and celebrated cherry blossoms.

And Oshima has fascinating folk and history museums where you can learn about the samuraipirates who made these islands their home. Each island has a choice of accommodation and restaurants, making it easy to plan your own tour.

Many visitors who cycle the Shimanami Kaido have blogged that it was their most satisfying experience in Japan.

NAMETOKO GORGE CANYONING

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anyoning is a river sport that originated in Europe. It’s one of the most exciting ways to experience nature, as you descend through rocky gorges formed naturally over thousands of years by the action of rivers. Intrepid canyoners abandon themselves to the f low of the river to slide and slither down rocky chutes, and test their nerve by jumping many meters into the basins of waterfalls or rappelling down from the top of huge rocks. Nametoko Gorge in the southwest part of Shikoku is the premiere canyoning spot in Japan, offering an enormous range of natural chutes, slides and rappelling spots. There are reasonably priced half day and full day courses. But for the less extreme nature lover, Nametoko is a beauty spot in its own right, with miles of hiking trails, a campsite, and rocky pools for summer swimming.

UNDERWATER SEA WALKER

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id you ever want to try diving, but lacked the time and money? Well here’s your chance to experience the undersea world without any elaborate preparation. Just change into a wetsuit, put on a funky “Sea Walker” bubble helmet, and you’re ready to go. Walk down some steps to the sea floor, and you’re free to wander about among the coral and fish of the beautiful Uwakai Sea. Thanks to the Sea Walker helmet, your hair doesn’t even get wet and you can wear your contact lenses or glasses with no worries. Since there’s no swimming involved, it doesn’t matter if you can’t. And to ensure safety, a qualified guide is with you all the time.

For a modest ¥6,000 for adults and ¥4,000 for kids, drop in and surprise some fish any time it takes your fancy.

EHIME FESTIVALS

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he Saijo and Niihama festivals in the Toyo area of Ehime are held in mid October to celebrate the autumn harvest. They feature huge brocaded danjiri, a kind of festival juggernaut, mikoshi portable shrines, and taikodai drum wagons. The biggest drum wagon is over five meters high and weighs about two and half tons. The festivals involve pushing these immensely heavy structures through the streets of the city, and gathering here and there for displays called kakikurabe. This translates roughly as “comparing who can trolley about with the most glory and bravado.” As if wheeling the juggernauts up and down in various formations is not enough, they’re also hoisted into the air by a hundred men or more, who struggle and grunt under huge supporting poles. Much beer and sake is consumed to keep everybody in tip-top condition. In Niihama, the juggernauts take to the sea, whereas in Saijo they end up in the river.

• International Affairs Division, Ehime Prefectural Government • Tel: 089-912-2311; fax: 089-921-5931 • Email:kokusai@pref.ehime.jp • http://iyokannet.jp

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JAPAN’S MOST SPECTACULAR BIKE RACE

COME RIDE THROUGH THE GORGEOUS SETOUCHI SCENERY OF THE SHIMANAMI KAIDO!

Why race on the Shimanami Kaido?

1. FANTASTIC SETTING Experience this unique competition, racing across the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. Feel the sea breeze in the air and enjoy the superb views of the ocean and the islands.

2. LOCAL “OMOTENASHI” (Japanese hospitality)

WE INVITE YOU TO OUR INTERNATIONAL CYCLING RACE WITH OVER 10,000 RIDERS IN OCTOBER 2014

Shimanami Kaido not only offers superb views – it is also renowned for its excellent food. Ehime prefecture proudly deems itself Japan’s premier citrus fruit producer. With a surprising variety of citrus and fresh seafood, you can enjoy the outstanding “omotenashi” of the area.

This October 20th we will open our pre-competition “Cycling Shimanami 2013” with 3000 riders.

This is the first cycling competition in Japan where sections of roads have been closed off to cars. 2013 and 2014 will be big years for cycling competitions on the Shimanami Kaido.

Next year sees the launch of “Setouchi Shima-no-wa 2014”.

Over 100 events for visitors will be offered, centered around the Shimanami Kaido of Setouchi and the islands spanning between Ehime and Hiroshima prefectures.

Event date: Mar 21-Oct 26, 2014

International Affairs Division, Ehime Prefectural Government Tel: 089-912-2311 ∞ Fax: 089-921-5931 ∞ Email: kokusai@pref.ehime.jp

Agenda Listings

Submit your event at metropolis.co.jp/listings/submit

CONCERT

The Hiatus

Music and art project fronted

by Takeshi Hosomi. Aug 13-14, 7pm, ¥2,500 (adv) +1d. Zepp Tokyo. Nearest stn: Aomi. Tel: 03-3499-6669. http://zepp. co.jp/tokyo

Punkafoolic! Bayside Crash

Punk fest with J-rock greats Secret 7 Line, Hotsquall, Asshole Unite and more. Aug 17, noon, ¥3,500 (adv)/ ¥4,000 (door) +1d.

Harumi Port Terminal. Nearest stn: Kachidoki. Tel: 03-68053518. www.punkafoolic.com

Rottengraffty

Sumida Street Jazz Fest With the war cries: “No politicians,” “No music producers,” and “Transparency,” the Sumida Street Jazz Fest joined Japan’s growing numbers of like-minded street events four years ago.

This year’s event ups the ante, with a couple dozen top domestic acts slated to perform on over 30 stages set up around the Tokyo Sky Tree and Kinshicho station areas. Among them are musicians ranging from guitar-vocal duo Fried Pride to veteran chanteuse Mari Nakamoto. Also on the bill is the Patrick Charles Makandel Group, founded by a session drummer from LA along with the likes of Winchester Niitete Boye, a virtuoso African percussionist from Ghana.

Aug 17-18, free. Sumida Ward. Nearest stns: Kinchicho and Oshiage. www.sumida-jazz.jp

Concerts POPULAR Rock in Japan Fes

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, Zazen Boys, Mongol 800 and more. Aug 2-4. 10:30am, ¥11,500 (1 day)/ ¥22,000 (2 days)/¥30,000 (3 days).

National Hitachi Kaihin Park.

Nearest stn: Kaihinkoen. Tel: 0180-993-611. www.rijfes.jp

Golden Bomber

Talk of the nation comedic foursome with visual-kei roots. Aug 2, 6:30pm, ¥5,775 (adv). Nippon Budokan.

Nearest stn: Kudanshita. Tel: 0570-084-003. www.l-tike.com

Charred Friday

Metal fest with Her Name in Blood, Ashley Scared the Sky and more. Aug 2, 6:30pm, ¥2,300 (adv)/ ¥2,800 (door) +1d. O-West. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.shibuya-o.com

Eastern Youth

Punk-rock trio. Aug 2, 7pm, ¥3,500 (adv) +1d. Shibuya Club Quattro. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.club-quattro.com

A-Nation Island

Music, food and fashion festival with artists Kumi Koda, Scandal and more.

Aug 3-11, ¥4,500-7,500 (adv).

Yoyogi National Gymnasium and Shibuya-AX. Nearest stn: Harajuku. www.a-nation.net

Bjork

Quirky Icelandic singer who fearlessly dabbles in all genres. Aug 3 & 6, 8pm, ¥22,000 (adv). Miraikan.

Nearest stn: Telecom Center.

Tel: 03-3444-6751. www. smash-jpn.com

Bull Shit Records Release Tour

Rock bands Roach, Rizing 2 End, Dirty Little Secret and more. Aug 4, 2pm, ¥2,500 (adv)/ ¥3,000 (door) +1d. Shibuya Milkyway.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. shibuyamilkyway.com

At The Gates

Swedish melodic death metal. Aug 5, 7pm, ¥6,500 (adv) +1d. Liquidroom.

Nearest stn: Ebisu. Tel: 03-3444-6751. www. liquidroom.net

A Flood of Circle

J-rock trio with Flower Companies. Aug 6, 7pm, ¥3,150 (adv)/ ¥3,650 (door) +1d. Shibuya Club Quattro.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. club-quattro.com

Very Be Careful

Colombian crew playing cumbia and vallenato. Aug 6, 6pm, ¥3,800 (adv)/ ¥4,300 (door) +1d.

Shibuya The Game. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-3409-1336. www.shibuyathegame.com

Pink Floyd Trips

Tribute band plays The Dark Side of the Moon. Aug 6, 7:30pm, ¥4,500 (adv) +1d. O-West.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-34446751. http://shibuya-o.com

Aerosonic

J-rock, punk and heavy metal hybrid band. Aug 20, 6:30pm, ¥2,800 (adv) +1d.

Eggman. Nearest stn: Shibuya.

Tel: 050-5533-0888. http:// eggman.j p

Thirty Seconds to Mars

Actor Jared Leto’s pet project with a cult following. Aug 21, 7pm, ¥6,3000. Liquidroom.

Nearest stn: Ebisu. Tel: 03-34996669. www.creativeman.co.jp/ english

Slow Music Slow Live

Fest at a temple feat. Bonnie Pink, Caravan, etc. Aug 23-24, 6:30pm & Aug 25, 3pm, ¥6,50018,000. Ikegami Honmonji Temple. Nearest stn: Ikegami. www.lultimo.jp/smsl

T.M. Revolution

Short statured J-pop prince. Aug 24, 6pm; Aug 25, 4pm, ¥6,800 (adv). Ryogoku Kokugikan.

Nearest stn: Ryogoku. Tel: 03-3623-5111. www.tmrv.net

Pachi Rock Festival

No stock, Celluloid-Vancrush, Snack, etc. Aug 25, 4pm, ¥2,500.

Shinjuku Blaze. Nearest stn: Shinjuku. Tel: 0570-550-799. http://kyodotokyo.com

Aerosmith and B’z reunite for a rockin’ night in Chiba. Aug 8, 5:30pm, ¥12,000-15,000 (adv).

QVC Marine Field. Nearest stn: Kaihin-Makuhari. Tel: 03-34996669. www.creativeman.co.jp

Jason Mraz

Zushi Fes

Sung Si Kyung

Beach festival with Totalfat, Scandal and more. Aug 9-11, noon, ¥7,800 (one day)/ ¥23,400 (three days). Zushi Marina. Nearest stn: Riviera Zushi Marina Mae or Kotsubo.

Tel: 0570-550-799. www. mtvjapan.com/zushifes2013

Sonicmania

Warm up for Summer Sonic with The Stone Roses, Pet Shop Boys, etc. Aug 9, 10pm, ¥9,800 (adv) +1d/ ¥35,000 (weekend pass, adv) +1d. Makuhari Messe.

Nearest stn: Kaihin-Makuhari.

Tel: 03-3499-6669. www. summersonic.com/2013/english

Summer Sonic

Summer fest fixture feat.

Metallica, Stone Roses, Muse, Cyndi Lauper, etc. Aug 10-11, from ¥15,000 Makuhari Messe.

Nearest stn: Kaihin-Makuhari. www.summersonic.com

World Happiness Festival

Singer-songwriter that’s yours.

Aug 26, 7pm, ¥7,500 (adv) +1d. Studio Coast. Nearest stn: Shin-Kiba. www.studio-coast. com K-pop heartthrob. Aug 28, 6:30pm, ¥7,800 +1d. Zepp Tokyo. Nearest stn: Aomi. Tel: 050-5533-0888. http://zepp. co.jp/tokyo

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Visual-kei veterans. Aug 29, 6:30pm, ¥4,700 +1d.

Shibuya-AX. Nearest stn: Harajuku. Tel: 050-5533-0888. www.shibuya-ax.com

Oz

Female-led Okinawa pop rock.

Aug 30, 7pm, ¥2,800 +1d. Star Lounge. Nearest stn: Shibuya.

Tel: 050-5533-0888. www. starlounge.jp

Soul Power Summit

J-pop music fest with Beni, May J and more. Aug 30, 6:30pm; Aug 31, 5:30pm, ¥7,000 (adv).

Tokyo International Forum Hall A. Nearest stn: Yurakucho. Tel: 050-5533-0888.

Kid-friendly fest with Midnight Suns, Michiko Shimizu, etc.

Aug 11, 12:30pm, ¥1,0009,000 (adv). Yumenoshima Park. Nearest stn: Shin-Kiba.

Tel: 0570-084-632. www. world-happiness.com

Twilight Records 10th Anniversary

Hot Chelle Rae

Otadama Sea Studio

Polished pop mixed with heavy dance rock from Nashville, Tennessee. Aug 12, 7pm, ¥5,500 (adv) +1d. Duo Music Exchange. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-3499-6669.

Palma Violets

Ramshackle pub-rock quartet.

Aug 12, 7pm, ¥5,500 (adv) +1d. Club Quattro. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-3499-6669.

Spyair

With Totalfat, Big Mama and more. Aug 12-14, 7pm, ¥3,800 (adv). Shibuya O-East. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.shibuya-o.com

Quietdrive, Fact, Five New Old and more. Aug 31, noon, ¥5,800 (adv). Club Citta. Nearest stn: Kawasaki. Tel: 03-3499-6669. www.creativeman.co.jp Summer-long fest with DJ Baku, Chara, Hybrid Human Ideology, etc. Until Sep 1. Cantina-mae coastline, Zushi, Kanagawa.

Nearest stn: Zushi. www. otodama-beach.com/2013

JAZZ/WORLD Osibisa

Ghanian Afro-pop. Aug 2-4, 8pm, ¥7,800-9,000. Cotton Club. Nearest stn: Tokyo.

Tel: 03-3215-1555. www. cottonclubjapan.co.jp

Garth Hudson

Alt-country legend with Sister Maud Hudson. Aug 2, ¥7,500-

22 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

9,500. Billboard Live. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.billboardlive.com

The Ricky Sweum Jazz Quartet

Cutting-edge jazz that bridges modern and traditional influences. Aug 3, 6pm, ¥2,500.

Alley Hall, 2-24-8, Kitazawa.

Nearest stn: Shimokitazawa. h ttp://meturl.com/ rickysweum13

Yokohama Steelpan Festa Two days of Caribbean rhythms. Aug 10-11, 1pm, free.

Yamashita Park. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. Email: taiki.nishihara@nonoka.com. www.nonaka.com

Ha’aheo Hawaiian Super Unit

GO TO WWW.METURL.COM/LISTINGS GO TO WWW.METURL.COM/L 9999. www.toppanhall.com/en

Concert for Children

Interactive performance where children are invited to sing and dance along to the music. Aug 3, 2pm, ¥1,5003,000. Sagamihara South Hall.

Nearest stn: Sagamiono. Tel: 042-742-9999.

Arts Shower

Performances by leading musicians and singers. Jul 23-Aug 5. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall. Nearest stn: Shinjuku or Hatsudai. www. operacity.jp/en

34th Kirishima International Music Festival

Peaceful rhythms from the island paradise. Aug 10-11, ¥3,000-7,000. Cotton Club.

Nearest stn: Tokyo. Tel: 03-32151555. www.cottonclubjapan. co.jp

Kyushu-based Kirishima Festival Orchestra plays Beethoven, Wagner. Aug 6, 7pm, ¥4,000-7,000. Tokyo Opera City Concert Hall.

Nearest stn: Shinjuku or Hatsudai. Tel: 03-5774-3040. www.operacity.jp/en

Tommy Emmanuel

Nighttime Organ Concert

Australian finger-style guitarist.

Aug 12, ¥7,000 and up. Cotton Club. Nearest stn: Tokyo.

Tel: 03-3215-1555. www. cottonclubjapan.co.jp

Eric Darius

Smooth-jazz saxophonist. Aug 14-16, ¥6,500-7,500. Cotton Club. Nearest stn: Tokyo.

Tel: 03-3215-1555. www. cottonclubjapan.co.jp

Hulatone

Hawaiian music festival. Aug 17, 5:15pm; Aug 18, 3:15pm, ¥4,800 (adv). Hibiya Outdoor Theater. Nearest stn: Hibiya.

Tel: 0570-550-799. www. hulatone.jp

Jazz for Kids

Terumasa Hino and Dream Jazz Band. Aug 17, 3pm; Aug 18, 2pm, ¥2,250-4,500. Setagaya Public Theater. Nearest stn: Sangenjaya. Tel: 03-5432-1515. http://setagaya-pt.jp

Todd Rundgren

Soul and progressive rock. Aug 21-22, ¥7,000-9,000. Billboard Live. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.billboard-live.com

Earth Celebration

Legendary Kodo drummers’ festival. Aug 23-25. various prices. Ogi Town, Sado Island, Niigata Prefecture. www.kodo. or.jp/ec/en

Ego Wrappin’

Osaka jazz unit and Fuji Rock veterans with Cero. Aug 30, 7pm, ¥3,800 (adv)/ ¥4,300 (door) +1d. Shibuya Club Quattro. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.club-quattro.com

George Benson

Ten-time Grammy-winning jazz guitarist. Aug 30, 7pm, ¥10,00012,000. Sumida Triphony Hall.

Nearest stn: Kinshicho. Tel: 03-5608-1212. www.triphony. com

Performance by Megumi Ogata and Hideyuki Kobayashi.

Aug 8, 7:30pm, ¥1,000. Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. Tel: 0570-010296. www.geigeki.jp

’O Sole Mio

Performed by Orchestra Italiana Napoletana. Aug 10, 1:30pm, ¥5,500. Yokohama Minato Mirai Hall. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai. Tel: 050-37766184. www.koransha.com

Yokohama Pops Vol. 3

Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra plays Italian classical tunes with a twist. Set dinner plus all-you-can-drink. Aug 10, 1 & 6pm, ¥24,000 (adv)/ ¥46,000 (adv, pair)/ ¥25,000 (door).

Yokohama Bay Sheraton.

Nearest stn: Yokohama.

Tel: 045-411-1111. www. yokohamabay-sheraton.co.jp

Zoorasian Brass meets Tokyo Symphony

Concert for children. Aug 10, 11am & 3pm, ¥1,0003,000. Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. Tel: 044-520-1511. tokyosymphony.jp

Saito Kinen Festival

Classical music festival led by famed conductor Seiji Ozawa.

Until Sep 7. 69-2 Mizukuma, Matsumoto-shi, Nagano.

Nearest stn: Matsumoto.

Tel: 0570-063-050. www. saito-kinen.com

Stage Les Contes D’Hoffmann

Opera by Jacques Offenbach.

Aug 3-4, 2pm, ¥2,000-18,000.

New National Theatre Tokyo.

Nearest stn: Hatsudai. www. nntt.jac.go.jp/english

Paper World

Cuban salsa music maestros Havana D'Primera and more.

Aug 31, 5:30pm, ¥7,500-8,500.

Zepp Diver City. Nearest stn: Daiba. Tel: 03-3527-5256. http:// meturl.com/latinanimate

Mimirichi Pantomime Theatre creates magical family performance using paper.

Aug 3-4, 1pm, ¥2,500-4,500.

Shinjuku Bunka Center.

Nearest stn: Higashi-Shinjuku.

Tel: 050-3776-6184. www. koransha.com/recital_others/ mimirichi2013

Pavlo

Wicked

Latin Festival Animate

Mediterranean-pop with Greek folk elements. Aug 31-Sep 1, ¥5,800-7,000 (adv). Cotton Club. Nearest stn: Tokyo. www. cottonclubjapan.co.jp

CLASSICAL Finale!

New Japan Philharmonic plays works by Gustav Mahler. Aug 2, 7:15pm; Aug 3, 2pm, ¥4,2508,000. Sumida Triphony Hall.

Nearest stn: Kinshicho. Tel: 03-5610-3815. www.njp.or.jp

Rei Tsujimoto

Cellist performs Beethoven, Rachmaninoff, etc. Aug 3, 2pm, ¥4,000. Toppan Hall. Nearest stn: Iidabashi. Tel: 03-3234-

Broadway spin-off of The Wizard of Oz. Aug 3-Oct 31, various times, ¥3,000-9,800.

Dentsu Shiki Theater Umi. Nearest stn: Shinbashi. Tel: 0120-489-444. http://wicked.jp

Much Ado About Love Suicides

Bunraku puppet performance of a tragic love story with contemporary elements.

Aug 8-18, ¥6,000-7,500. Parco Theater. Nearest stn: Shibuya.

Tel: 0570-08-4003. http://l-tike. com/sorenari

Doki Doki Precure Musical Show

Animated fairy heroes fight for justice. Aug 12, 11am & 2:30pm;

Aug 14 & 18, 11am & 3:30pm, ¥2,000-3,000. Sagamihara South Hall. Nearest stn: Sagamiono.

Tel: 044-930-1551. www.pal2. co.jp/show

Drumstruck

Interactive drum experience from South Africa. Until Aug 25, various times, ¥5,000-8,000.

The Galaxy Theater. Nearest stn: Kita-shinagawa or Tennouzu Isle. Tel: 03-3490-4949. http:// gingeki.jp

Hello, Dolly!

Broadway classic with an all-Japanese cast. Aug 23, 1 & 6:30pm; Aug 24-25, 12 & 5:30pm, ¥2,000-5,000. Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. Tel: 0570-010296. www.geigeki.jp/t

The Comedy of Errors

Shakespeare’s classic performed by Oxford University Drama Society. Aug 24, 7pm; Aug 25, 1 & 6pm, ¥1,000-2,500.

Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre.

Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. Tel: 0570-010-296. www.geigeki.jp/ genre/theater

The Little Mermaid

Disney and Shiki Gekidan grand production of the classic Hans Christian Andersen tale.

Until Aug 31, various times, ¥4,000-8,800. Shiki Theater Natsu. Nearest stn: Oimachi. Tel: 0120-489444. www.shiki.jp/ applause/littlemermaid

Gamarjobat

Award-winning mime comedy duo. Sep 21, 2pm, ¥4,500.

Bunkyo Civic Hall. Nearest stn: Korakuen. September 26, 7pm, ¥4,500. Setagaya Public Theater.

Nearest stn: Sangenjaya. Oct 27, 2pm, ¥4,500. Shinjuku Bunka Center. Nearest stn: HigashiShinjuku. Nov 30, 1pm, ¥4,500.

Shibuya Kokaido. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 0570-003337. More venues at www. gamar-jack.com

Dance Karei Naru Classic Ballet Highlights

The Kiev Ballet performs scenes from Swan Lake, The Nutcracker and more. Aug 2, 1:30pm, ¥6,000. Bunkyo Civic Hall. Nearest stn: Korakuen. Aug 3, 1:30pm, ¥6,000. Kanagawa Kenmin Hall. Nearest stn: Nihonodori. Tel: 050-3776-6184. www.koransha.com/ballet/ karei2013

Dance ga Mitai!

Sorosoro Solo

Contemporary dance showcase devoted to solo performances. Aug 2-28, various times, ¥2,000-11,000.

Nippori D-Soko. Nearest stn: Nippori. Tel: 03-5811-5399. www.geocities.jp/azabubu/ d15

Sleeping Beauty

The Tokyo Ballet troupe dances for children. Aug 9, 11:30am & 3pm, ¥2,000-5,000. Meguro Persimmon Hall. Nearest stn: Toritsudaigaku.

The World of Diana Vishneva

Award-winning Russian ballet dancer’s magnificent life on stage. Aug 17, 3pm; Aug 18, 3pm; Aug 21, 7pm; Aug 22, 7pm, ¥7,000-16,000. U-Port Hall.

Nearest stn: Osaki-Hirokoji. Tel: 03-5721-8000. www.nbs.or.jp/ english

Compass Guruguru

Youth group’s acrobatic dance performance. Aug 18, 5pm; Aug 19, 3pm, ¥1,000-2,400. Theater Tram. Nearest stn: Sangenjaya.

Tel: 03-5432-1526.

Time is on My Side: 1996 Special

Condors Dance Company travels through time. Aug 30, 7:30pm; Aug 31, 2 & 7pm; Sep 1, 3pm, ¥2,500-4,500. Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-53912111. www.geigeki.jp

LISTINGS FOR COMPLETE FOR COMPLETE LISTINGS LISTINGS COURTESY OF ELEVEN

CLUBBING

Village

Sunday Tribe. Hip-hop: DJs Kango, Hokuto, etc.

From 10pm, ¥2,000 w/1d.

Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban or Roppongi. Tel: 03-62300343. www.villagetokyo. com

Womb

Csh4. House, techno: DJs Punchi, Kume, etc. From midnight, ¥3,000. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-54590039. www.womb.co.jp

FRIDAY 9

One Summer Night with DVS1 & DJ Nobu Hallowed Nishi-Azabu club Eleven may have closed, but the folks who ran it are still busy bringing dance music to Japan.

This weekend they host a one-off night at Unit featuring veteran US DJ DVS1 (“Devious One,” get it?). The Minneapolis-based artist is known in the Midwest for his Hush parties that draw on a 10,000-strong vinyl collection, and of late he’s been getting a worldwide rep for his simple, elegant productions as well.

No less than Detroit techno avatar Derrick May has taken him under his wing, releasing DVS1 tracks on his newly revived Transmat label. Alongside him will be DJ Nobu, who brought the house down at Eleven's closing party in May. Unit, Aug 3, from 11pm, ¥2,500 (adv)/ ¥3,000 (w/ flyer)/ ¥3,500 (door). Nearest stn: Daikanyama. Tel: 03-5459-8630. www.unit-tokyo.com

FRIDAY 2

DJs Inoue, Mu-R, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,000. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.air-tokyo. com

Ageha

Galaxy

Clubbing Agepa!! All mix, hip-hop: DJs U5, Sweet, etc. From 11pm, (m)¥2,500, (f)free. Nearest stn: Shin-Kiba. www.ageha.com

Air

Funk Taxi. House, techno: DJs Marc Schneider, Den, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,000. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.air-tokyo.com

Module

Nyx. Techno: DJs Arakawa, Hachiga etc. From 9pm, ¥2,000. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.module-tokyo.com

Sound Museum Vision

Natsumatsuri. House, electro: DJs Tanaka, The Lowbrows, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,500 w/1d.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. vision-tokyo.com

The New Matrix Bar

Matrix Friday. Old school hip-hop, west side, south side, all mix DJ Ykk and more. From 6pm, ¥1,000 (after 11:30pm). Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jp

The Room

Breakthrough. Hip-hop: DJs Jin, Ladi Dadi, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.theroom.jp

Unit

Prom Nite. Club music DJs Toby Feltwell, 1-Drink, etc Live: Kelela and more. From 10pm, ¥3,000. Nearest stn: Daikanyama. www.unit-tokyo. com

Village

Fantastic. Hip-hop: DJ Hokuto and more. From 10pm, (m)¥3,000 w/1d, (f)¥2,000 w/2d. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban or Roppongi.

Tel: 03-6230-0343. www. villagetokyo.com

Womb

Sterne. Techno: DJs Ishino, Lyoma. From 11pm, ¥3,500.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb. co.jp

SATURDAY 3 Ageha

Juno Reactor. Electro, trance DJs Juno Reactor, Jitter, etc: Live: Sugizo and more. From 6pm, ¥5,000. Nearest stn: Shin-Kiba. www.ageha.com

Air

Groundrhythm. House, hip-hop:

Maniac Love 20th Birthday.

Techno, house. DJs Co-fusion, Takasaka, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,500/ ¥1,000 (from 5am) w/1 coffee. Nearest stn: Harajuku. www.thegalaxy.jp

Module

Numero. Techno, house: DJs Magara, Nehan, etc. From 10pm, ¥3,000 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.module-tokyo.com

Sound Museum Vision

Power. House, electro: DJs Ol Killer, Asano, etc. From 10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/1d, (f)¥2,500 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.vision-tokyo.com

The New Matrix Bar

Saturday Night Fever. Hip-hop, R&B, reggae: DJ Ykk and more. From 6pm, ¥1,000 (after 10pm). Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.matrixbar.jp

The Room

Otoko Oibon. Jazz, crossover: DJs Sunaga, Oibon, etc.

From 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. theroom.jp

Village

Grand Slam. Hip-hop: DJ Nuckey and more. From 10pm, (m)¥3,000 w/1d, (f)¥2,000 w/2d. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban or Roppongi.

Tel: 03-6230-0343. www. villagetokyo.com

Womb

Sound Museum Vision

Stones Throw. Hip-hop: DJs J Rocc, Muro, etc. From 10pm, (m)¥3,500, (f)¥3,000. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.visiontokyo.com

The Room

Black Edition. Cosmic crossover: DJs Nori, Sato, etc.

From 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. theroom.jp

Velours

New York Dance Music Premier. Hip-hop: DJs Hasebe, Mayumi, etc. From 10:30pm, ¥3,000. Nearest stn: Omotesando. Tel: 03-57784777. www.velours.jp

Womb

Beyond. Techno: DJs Jonas Kopp, Truncate, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jp

SATURDAY 10 Ageha

The Wonderland. Edm: DJs Mikael Weermets, Hirata, etc.

Aug 10, from 11pm, ¥3,500.

Nearest stn: Shin-Kiba. www. ageha.com

Galaxy

Maniac Love 20th Birthday.

Techno, house. DJs Q'Hey, Mayumi, etc. From 10pm, ¥2,500/ ¥1,000 (from 5am) w/1 coffee. Nearest stn: Harajuku. www.thegalaxy. jp

Module

Mass. Techno: DJs G3d9, Kn, etc. Aug 10, from 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.moduletokyo.com

Sound Museum Vision

Hed Kandi. House: DJs The Shapeshifters, Remo-Con, etc. Aug 10, from 10pm, (m)¥3,500 w/1d, (f)¥2,500 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.vision-tokyo.com

The Room

Sound Sanctuary. Jazz, crossover: DJ Shuya Okino(Kyoto Jazz Massive) and more. Aug 10, from 10pm, ¥2,500 w/1d.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. theroom.jp

Unit

06s. Drumnbass: DJs Loadstar, Aki, etc. From 11pm, ¥3,500. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb.co.jp

Frue. House, experimental DJs Aybee, Osg, etc: Live: The Heliiocentrics. Aug 10, from 11pm, ¥4,300. Nearest stn: Daikanyama. www. unit-tokyo.com

SUNDAY 4

Womb

Module

Signum. House, techno: DJs Co-Hey, Amari, etc. From 5pm, ¥2,000 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.moduletokyo.com

Ruby Room

Dainanatairiku. DJs Serio, Slip Noize, etc: Live: Rdo and more. From midnight, ¥2,000 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. rubyroomtokyo.com

The Room

Switch Over. House, breakbeats: DJs Chigira, Odoroyo, etc. From midnight, ¥2,000 w/1d. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.theroom.jp

Kats’. Techno: DJs 2013 Dondada, Sonpub, etc. Aug 10, from 11pm, ¥3,500.

Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 03-5459-0039. www.womb. co.jp

Exhibitions AKASAKA/ROPPONGI ANA InterContinental Hotel

Serenity. Photography by four upcoming Japanese artists. Until Oct 5, free.

Open daily. 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Nearest stn: Roppongi 2-chome. Tel: 03-3505-1111. www. emoninc.com

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 23

Agenda Listings Gallery Momo Projects

The Boobs in Japan.

Celebration of women while showcasing the hardships they encounter in society.

Mixed media. Until Aug 10, free. Tue-Sat 12-7pm, closed Mon, Sun & Holidays. 2-3F, 6-2-6 Roppongi. Nearest stn: Roppongi. Tel: 03-34054339. www.gallery-momo. com

Mori Art Museum

All You Need Is Love. Works from Chagall to Kusama.

Until Sep 1, ¥1,500. Open Mon & Wed-Sun 10am-10pm, Tue 10am-5pm. 6-10-1 Roppongi. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.mori.art. museum

Mori Arts Center Gallery

Harry Potter: The Exhibition.

Interactive theatrical event.

Audio tour available in English. Until Sep 16, ¥1,0002,500. Ever and Never: The Art of Peanuts. Original drawings and sketches of Snoopy & co. Oct 12-Jan 5, ¥500-2,000. 52F Roppongi Hills Tower, 6-10-1 Roppongi.

Nearest stn: Roppongi. www. roppongihills.com/art/macg

The National Art Center Tokyo

Divisionism from Van Gogh and Seurat to Mondrian. Oil paintings. Oct 4-Dec 23, ¥800-1,500. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, closed Tue. 7-22-2 Roppongi. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.nact.jp

GINZA/KYOBASHI/ TOKYO Craft Gallery, The National Museum of Modern Art

Body x Body x Body. An eye-opening exploration of the human body. Until Sep 1, ¥70-200. Close Up Crafts.

Mixed media. Sep 14-Dec 8, ¥300-500. Open Tue-Thu 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-5pm.

1-1 Kitanomaru-koen Chiyoda-Ku. Nearest stn: Takebashi. Tel: 03-57778600. www.momat.go.jp/ english

H.P. France Window Gallery

Sign of Ghost. Sculptures

by Takashi Abe. Until Aug 22, free. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun & Hols 11am-8pm. 1F Marunouchi Bldg. 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-32405791. hpgrpgallery.com/ window

Idemitsu Museum of Arts Power of Characters, Power of Calligraphy II. The dialogue between calligraphy and painting. Until Aug 18, ¥700-1,000. Discover the Beauty of Japan VIII. Sengai and the world of Zen. Sep 21-Nov 4, ¥700-1,000. Open Tue-Thu 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-7pm, closed Mon. 9F Teigeki Bldg, 3-1-1 Marunouchi. Nearest stn: Tokyo. www.idemitsu.co.jp/ museum

Maison Hermes

The Ram in the Thicket.

Large-scale installations by Israeli artist Sigalit Landau.

Until Aug 18, free. 5-4-1 Ginza. Nearest stn: Ginza.

Tel: 03-3569-3300. www. hermes.com

Mitsui Memorial Museum

Youkai: Demons, Folklore Creatures and GeGeGe no Kitarou. Mixed media. Until Sep 1, ¥700-1,200. 7F Mitsui Main Bldg, 2-1-1 NihombashiMuromachi, Chuo-ku.

Nearest stn: Mitsukoshimae.

Tel: 03-5777-8600. www. mitsui-museum.jp

Mitsuo Aida Museum

Ukemi. Modern calligraphy and poetry. Until Sep 1, ¥200-800. Open Tue-Sun

GO TO WWW.METURL.COM/LISTINGS FOR COMPLETE GOLISTINGS TO WWW.METURL.COM/L

10am-5:30pm, closed Mon. B1 Tokyo International Forum Glass Bldg, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-6212-3200. www.mitsuo.co.jp

National Film Center

Tomoko Yoneda. Until Sep 23, ¥500-700. Open Tue-Wed & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu-Fri 10am-8pm, closed Mon. 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro-ku. Nearest stn: Ebisu. http://syabi.com

Japanese Film Heritage.

Permanent collection from the National Film Center. Until Apr 3, ¥40-200. Titled Film Stills: Publicity Photos for Japanese Cinema. Until Aug 7, ¥200.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-6:30pm, closed Mon. 3-7-6 Kyobashi.

Nearest stn: Kyobashi. www. momat.go.jp

Tokyo Wonder Site Shibuya

National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo

They Called Me Yukari/Mama Love. Photography by Hideka Tonomura. Until Sep 7, free.

2-17-3 Shibuya. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Tel: 050-5531-9536. www.zen-foto.jp

Playback Artist Talk. Film digest of previous exhibitions and talks by the artists.

Until Aug 4, ¥130-420. Seiho Takeuchi. Traditional Japanese paintings. Sep 3-Oct 14, ¥300-1,300. Unconsciousness of the City. Mixed media. Until Aug 4, ¥420. Open Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 10am-5pm, Fri 10am-8pm. 3-7-6 Kyobashi.

Nearest stn: Takebashi. www. momat.go.jp

Vanilla Gallery

Artwork from Blade of the Immortal. Illustrations and watercolors by Hiroaki Samura. Aug 5-Sep 7, ¥500.

Open Mon-Fri noon-7pm, Sat noon-5pm, closed Sun. 4F Daini Kamata Bldg, 6-10-10 Ginza. Nearest stn: Ginza. www. vanilla-gallery.com

HARAJUKU/AOYAMA Nezu Museum

Lofty Elegance: Ink Painting from Medieval Japan. Spanning 300 years. Sep 11-Oct 20, ¥600-1,000. Tue-Sun, 10am-4:30pm. 6-5-1 MinamiAoyama, Minato-ku. Nearest stn: Omotesando. www. nezu-muse.or.jp/en

Toto Gallery Ma

Christian Kerez: The Rule of the Game. Mixed media. Until Sep 28, free. 3F, Toto Nogizaka Blg, 1-24-3 Minami-Aoyama.

Nearest stn: Nogizaka. www. toto.co.jp/gallerma

Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art

Handsome Boys and Good-looking Men of Edo. Woodblock prints. Until Aug 25, ¥500-700. Wild Geese and the Moon—Beauties of Nature. Paintings by Utagawa Hiroshige. Aug 31-Sep 26, ¥500-700. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-5:30pm, closed Mon. 1-10-10 Jingumae. Nearest stn: Harajuku. www.ukiyoe-otamuse.jp

SHIBUYA/EBISU Bunkamura: The Museum

Book! Art! Book! Picture book art by Leo Lionni. Until Aug 2, ¥400-1,300. Open Mon-Thu & Sun 10am-7pm, Fri-Sat 10am-8pm. 2- 24-1 Dogenzaka.

Nearest stn: Shibuya.

Tel: 03-3477-9111. www. bunkamura.co.jp

Parco Museum

Picasso: Love and Art in Prints.

Prints. Until Aug 19, ¥400-500.

Open daily 10am-9pm. B1F Parco Part1, 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3477-5873. www.parco-art.com

The Watari-Um Museum of Contemporary Art Shuuji Terayama: Knock.

Performance art, film and photography. Until Oct 27, ¥800-1,000. Open Tue & Thu-Sun 11am-7pm, Wed 11am-9pm, closed Mon. 3-7-6 Jingumae. Nearest stn: Gaienmae. www.watarium. co.jp

Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography

World Press Photo.

Prizewinning photojournalists.

Until Aug 4, ¥400-700.

We Shall Meet in the Place Where There is No Darkness.

Landscape photography by

Identities in the World. Five artists reflect upon the themes “energy” and “identity.” Mixed media. Until Sep 23, free. 1-19-8 Jinnan. Nearest stn: Shibuya.

Tel: 03-3463-0603. www. tokyo-ws.org/shibuya

Zen Foto Gallery

SHINJUKU/IKEBUKURO Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum

Soen & Soen Fashion Award. Fashion. Until Sep 28, ¥200-500. Mon-Sat 10am-4:30pm, Closed Sun & hols. Shinjuku Bunka Quint Bldg. 3-22-7 Yoyogi. Nearest stn: Shinjuku. Tel: 03-32992387. www.bunka.ac.jp/ museum/text/english.html

Hiromart Gallery

A Fantasy World Inside You. Tokyo-based painter and cartoonist Yuka Goto's solo exhibition. Until Aug 25, free. Open Wed-Sun 1-7pm, closed Mon-Tue. 1-30-7 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku. Nearest stn: Edogawabashi. www. hiromartgallery.com

NTT Intercommunication Center

Open Space 2013. A melting pot of artists and media. Until Mar 2, 2014, free. AR Museum.

ICC Kids' Program. Mixed media. Until Sep 1, ¥300-500.

4F Tokyo Opera City Tower, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku. Nearest stn: Hatsudai. www.ntticc.or.jp

Sompo Japan Museum of Art

Jeux Surréalisme. Mixed media.

Until Aug 25, ¥500-1,000.

The Galleria d'Arte Moderna in Palazzo Pitti. Sep 7-Nov 10, ¥600-¥1,000. Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm, closed Mon. 42F Sompo Japan Bldg, 1-26-1 Nishi-Shinjuku. Nearest stn: Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5405-8686. www.sompo-japan.co.jp/ museum

Tokyo Toy Museum

Japan Native Toys Collection.

Until Sep 29, ¥500-700. Open Fri-Wed 10am-4pm. Closed Thu. Yotsuya Hiroba, 4-20 Yotsuya. Nearest stn: Yotsuya Sanchome. Tel: 03-5367-9601. www.goodtoy.org

UENO Galeria de Muerte

Solo Show Octopus. Drawings.

Until Aug 3, Mon-Tue, Th-Sat, 1-7pm, closed Wed & Sun. 3F, 3-32-1 Higashi-Ueno. Nearest stn: Ueno. Tel: 03-3835-8278. www.galeriademuerte.com

National Museum of Nature and Science

Deep Sea. Earth's last frontier.

Until Oct 6, ¥300-600 admission, plus exhibition fee. Open Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 9am-5pm, Fri 9am-8pm, closed Mon. 7-20 Ueno Park. Nearest stn: Ueno. Tel: 03-3822-0111. www.kahaku.go.jp

The National Museum of Western Art

Michelangelo Buonarroti.

Painting, sculpture and more.

Sep 6-Nov 17, ¥700-1,400. Open daily 9:30am-5:30pm. 7-7 Ueno Park. Nearest stn: Ueno. www. nmwa.go.jp

Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum

La Méditerranée dans les Collections du Louvre. Art and sculptures from the Louvre's Mediterranean collection.

24 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

Until Sep 23, ¥600-1,500.

8-36 Ueno Park. Nearest stn: Ueno. www.tobikan.jp

Tokyo National Museum

The Beauty of Japanese-style Calligraphy. Mixed media. A stunning collection showing the evolution of kanji. Until Sep 8, ¥600-1,500. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm. 13-9 Ueno Park. Nearest stn: Ueno. www.tnm.jp

Ueno Royal Museum

Art in Wonderland.

Interactive and explorationfriendly art. Sep 6-Oct 6, ¥400-1,200. Open Sat-Thur 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-8pm.

1-2 Ueno Park. Nearest stn: Ueno. www.ueno-mori.org

OTHER AREAS Makuhari Messe

Secrets of the Human Body: A Big Adventure. Giant bodies opened up for exploration and excavation. Until Sep 1, 10am-5pm, ¥700-1,600 (adv). Nakase 2-1, Mihamaku. Nearest stn: KaihinMakuhari. www.m-messe. co.jp

Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo

Francis Alÿs. Belgian artist’s social projects. Until Sep 8, ¥600-1,100. Ghosts, Underpants and Stars. Kids are free to run, touch, photograph and explore art naturally.

Until Sep 10, ¥600-1,000.

Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm, closed Mon. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto-ku.

Nearest stn: KiyosumiShirakawa. www.mot-artmuseum.jp/eng

Pacifico Yokohama

The Frozen Woolly Mammoth Yuka. New findings about the prehistoric beasts, feat. a full-size, frozen one (Japanese language only).

Until Sep 16, ¥900-2,200.

1-1-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai. www.pacifico. co.jp/english

The Museum of Modern Art, Hayama

War/Art 1940-1950: Sequences and Transformations of Modernism. Works by Tsuguharu Fujita, Shunsuke Matsumoto and more. Until Oct 14, ¥100-1,000. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm, closed Mon. 2208-1 Isshiki, Hayama, Miura-gun. Nearest stn: Zushi. www.moma.pref.kanagawa. jp/en

Sports BASEBALL Central League

Tokyo

Yakult Swallows vs. Hiroshima Toyo Carp.

Aug 2-4, 6pm, ¥500-4,500.

Jingu Stadium. Nearest stn: Shinanomachi. Tel: 03-34048999.

Tokyo

Yakult Swallows vs. Chunichi Dragons. Aug 13-15, 6pm, ¥500-4,500.

Jingu Stadium. Nearest stn: Shinanomachi. Tel: 03-34048999.

Yomiuri

Giants vs.

Chunichi Dragons. Aug 16-18, 6pm, ¥500-5,900.

Tokyo Dome. Nearest stn: Suidobashi. Tel: 03-58009999.

Pacific League

Chiba

Lotte Marines vs.

Orix Buffaloes. Aug 16-18, 6:15pm, ¥800-4.800. QVC Marine Field. Nearest stn: Kaihin-Makuhari. Tel: 043-296-1227.

Saitama

Seibu Lions vs.

Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles. Aug 16-18, 6pm, ¥600-20,000. Seibu Dome.

Nearest stn: Seibukyujomae.

Tel: 04-2925-1141.

Chiba

Lotte Marines vs.

Saitama Seibu Lions. Aug

20-22, 6:15pm, ¥800-4,800.

QVC Marine Field. Nearest stn: Kaihin-Makuhari. Tel: 043-2961227.

Koga Fireworks Festival

More games and ticket info at www.npb.or.jp/eng

Boom factor: 20,000. Fireworks synchronized to music. Aug 3, 7:20pm, free. 10-1 Nishimachi, Koga city, Ibaraki. Nearest station: Koga. Tel: 050-5548-8686. www. kogakanko.jp/hanabi

GOLF

Ageo Fireworks Festival

JLPGA

CAT Ladies’ Tournament.

Aug 23-25, all day, ¥2,000.

Dai-Hakone Country Club.

Nearest stn: Sounzan. 048-6003001

PRO WRESTLING Noah: Departure

Aug 4, 4pm, ¥4,000-7,000. Differ Ariake. Nearest stn: Ariaketennis-no-mori.

Zero 1: Final

Aug 4, 6:30pm, ¥4,000-6,000.

Korakuen Hall. Nearest stn: Suidobashi. Tel: 03-5800-9999.

Big Japan

Aug 8, 7pm, ¥4,000-5,000.

Shinkiba 1stRing. Nearest stn: Shinkiba. Tel: 03-3521-1015.

New Japan: G1 Climax 23

Aug 10, 6pm, ¥4,000-9,000.

Ryogoku Kokugikan. Nearest stn: Ryogoku. Tel: 03-36235111.

Dragon Gate

Aug 23, 6:30pm, ¥4,000-6,000.

Korakuen Hall. Nearest stn: Suidobashi. Tel: 03-5800-9999.

Noah: Summer Navig.

Aug 24, 6pm, ¥4,000-7,000.

Korakuen Hall. Nearest stn: Suidobashi. Tel: 03-5800-9999.

RUGBY Top League

Aug 30, 7pm, ¥300-3,500.

Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium. Nearest stn: Gaienmae. Tel: 03-3401-3881.

SOCCER J. League, Division 1

FC Tokyo vs. Oita Trinita.

Aug 3, 7pm, ¥500-¥6,000.

Ajinomoto Stadium. Nearest stn: Tobitakyu. Tel: 04-24400555.

Shonan

Bellmare vs.

Yokohama F. Marinos. Aug 3, 7pm, ¥600-5,500. Shonan BMW Stadium Hiratsuka. Tel: 0463-33-4455.

Kawasaki

Frontale vs.

FC Tokyo. Aug 10, 7pm, ¥800-¥4,500. Todoroki Stadium. Nearest stn: Musashikosugi. Tel: 044-7220303.

FC Tokyo vs. Yokohama F. Marinos. Aug 17, 6:30pm, ¥500-¥6,000. Ajinomoto Stadium. Nearest stn: Tobitakyu. Tel: 04-2440-0555.

Urawa

Reds vs. Oita Trinita.

Aug 17, 6pm, ¥1,000-4,500.

Saitama Stadium. Nearest stn: Urawamisono. Tel: 048-8121001.

More games and soccer ticket info at www.j-league.or.jp/eng

SUMO September Grand Tournament

Sep 15-29, ¥3,600-8,200.

Ryogoku Kokugikan. Nearest stn: Ryogoku. Tel: 03-36235111. www.sumo.or.jp/eng

Festivals Takasaki Matsuri

Boom factor:13,000. Riverside pyrotechnic display with personalized messages shot into the sky. Reservations required.

Aug 3, 7pm, free. 2606-1 Hirakata, Ageo city, Saitama. Nearest stn: Hirakata Elementary School. www.ageo-kankou.com

Ichikawa Nouryou Fireworks Tournament

Boom factor: 14,000. 8 different themes and launches synchronized to music. Premium seating available for a fee. Aug 3, 7:15pm, free. Around Edogawa River, Chiba. Nearest station: Ichikawa. www.ichikawa-hanabi.jp

Itabashi Fireworks Tournament

Boom factor: 11,000. A Niagara Falls of sparklers over Arakawa River. Aug 3, 7pm, free. Itabashi.

Nearest stn: Nishidai. www. itabashihanabi.jp

Tatsunokuchi Taketourou

Thousands of bamboo lanterns arranged in a long dragon-like line. Aug 3, 6pm, ¥1,000/lantern.

Ryukoji temple. Nearest stn: Katase-Enoshima. www.ryukoji.jp

Southern Beach Chigasaki Fireworks Tournament

Boom factor: 3,000 over southern waters. Aug 3, 7:30pm, free.

Southern Beach Chigasaki. Nearest stn: Chigasaki. Tel: 0467-84-0377. www.chigasaki-kankou.org

Miura Kaigan Nouryou Fireworks Festival

Boom factor: 3,000. Aug 7, 3:45pm, free. Miurakaigan Beach, Kanagawa. Nearest stn: Miurakaigan. Tel: 046-8880588. www.miura-info.ne.jp

Utsunomiya Fireworks Festival

Boom factor: 20,000. Premium for a fee, reservations required. Aug 10, 7pm, free. Utsunomiya city, Tochigi. Nearest stn: Yanagita Syako. www.utsunomiyahanabi.jp

Kumagaya Fireworks Tournament

Boom factor: 10,000. Variety includes messages from residents shot into the sky. Aug 10, 7pm, free. 2 Kawaracho, Kumagaya city, Saitama. Nearest stn: Kumagaya. www.kumagayakanko.jp

Tokyo Wandai Fireworks Festival

Boom factor: 12,000. Stunning display over Tokyo Bay. Aug 10, 7:50pm, free. Harumi Sports Grounds, Chuo-ku. Nearest stn: Kachidoku. http://meturl.com/ wandaihanabi

Floating Lantern Festival

Buy lanterns and send wishes down the Sumidagawa. Aug 13, 2:30pm, ¥1,500 per lantern.

Sumidagawa Mizube Terrace, Taito-ku. Nearest stn: Asakusa.

Tel: 03-3844-1221. http://meturl. com/floatsumidagawa2013

Twin Ring Motegi Fireworks Festival

Boom factor: 12,000. Race track rockets. Aug 14, 7:30pm, ¥500-2,500. Twin Ring Motegi.

Nearest stn: Motegi. Tel: 0285-640001. www. twinring.jp

Giant floats, taiko drums, dance and daruma portable shrines. Fireworks display on Aug 3 from 7:40pm. Aug 2-4, all day, free. Yachiyomachi, Takasaki, Gunma. Nearest stn: Takasaki. www.takasakimatsuri.jp

Minato Mirai Obon Odori

Yugawara Onsen Fireworks Festival

Giant bonfires make up shape of kanji for “large” on Myoujyougatake hillside, followed by fireworks. Aug 16,, free. Goura, Hakone. Nearest stn: Goura. Tel: 0460-82-2300. www.goura-kanko.jp

Spectacular firework display.

Aug 3, 8pm, free. Yugawara.

Nearest stn: Yugawara. Tel: 0465-63-2111. http://meturl. com/yugawarafire

Traditional dance facing the harbor. Aug 16, from 5:30pm; Aug 17, from 4pm, free. Pacifico Yokohama. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai. Tel: 045-681-3731.

Hakone Goura Summer Festival Daimonji

LISTINGS FOR COMPLETE LISTINGS

EXHIBITION Andreas Gursky

COURTESY OF SPRUTH MAGERS BERLIN LONDON

German lensman Andreas Gursky has the dubious honor of holding the record for the most expensive photograph ever sold ($4.3 million). Find out why he is held in such esteem by collectors at his first large-scale exhibition in Japan. Gursky is known for massive prints capturing the patterns of modern life, such as 99 Cent (1999), a poignantly abstract representation of contemporary commerce. This and other landmark works Pyongyang (2007) © Andreas have been hung on Gursky / Jaspar 2013 the NACT's giant walls alongside new pieces such as Kamiokande (2007)—taken in Japan—and his latest work Qatar (2012).

The National Art Center, until Sep 16, ¥600-1,500. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, closed Tue. 7-22-2 Roppongi. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.nact.jp

Setagaya-ku Tamagawa Fireworks Festival Boom factor: unknown.

Fireworks in luscious green surroundings. Aug 17, 7pm, free. Tamagawa Ryokuchi Sports Grounds, Kamata, Setagaya-ku. Nearest stn: Futako-Tamagawa. www. tamagawa-hanabi.com

Roppongi Hills Bon-Odori Traditional dance with Hills restaurants putting out stalls. Aug 23-25, 3-9pm, free.

Roppongi Hills Arena. Nearest stn: Roppongi. Tel: 03-64066000. http://meturl.com/ roppongibon2013

Super Yosakoi

Large costumed groups compete in dances originating from Koichi Prefecture. Aug 24-25, all day, free. Meiji Shrine, Yoyogi Park and Omotesando.

Nearest stn: Harajuku. www. yosakoi-harajuku.com

Hodogaya Candle Night

End of summer celebration with candles and Japanesestyle fire dance. Aug 31, 1:30pm, free. Hodogaya Park, Yokohama. Nearest stn: Hoshikawa. http://meturl.com/ hodogaya2013

Bazaars & Markets Antique Jamboree

Haggle with 500 dealers over Japanese, European, and US vintage goods. Aug 3-4, ¥800-3,000. Tokyo Big Sight.

Nearest stn: Kokusai-TenjijoSeimon. Tel: 0120-817-510. home.att.ne.jp/sun/jambokun/ antique

Earth Day Market

Farmer's market focused on organic and Fair Trade goods.

Aug 4 & Sep 22, free. Yoyogi Park. Nearest stn: Harajuku.

Tel: 090-3525-8481. www. earthdaymarket.com

Shinagawa Intercity Flea Market More than 120 vendors.

Sun & hols, 9am-3pm, free.

Shinagawa Intercity. Nearest stn: Shinagawa. http://meturl. com/shinflea

Ibaraki-ichi

Farm-fresh veg from the north.

Every Sat, 7-9am, Roppongi Hills East Court. Nearest stn: Roppongi. Tel: 03-6406-5285.

Oedo Antique Fair

Japan’s largest outdoor antique market. Every first and third Sun, 8am-4:30pm, Tokyo International

Forum Hall C. Nearest stn: Yurakucho. Tel: 03-58051093.

Community Beers for Books

For every drink you buy, ¥100 is used to buy local-language books for children in Nepal, Cambodia, etc. Sep 5, 7-10pm.

Suji's Tokyo. Nearest stn: Roppongi. Tel: 03-3505-4490/.

Sunday Spin

Hula-hoop it up in Yoyogi, no need to bring your own.

Drop in/out at any time. Every fourth Sun, Yoyogi Park.

Nearest stn: Harajuku. Tel: 03-3469-6081. http://meturl. com/hoopinginjapan

Pause Talk

sessions, for beginners to advanced artists. Aug 24, all day, ¥17,500 (plus ¥1,500 for materials). Temple University.

Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban. Tel: 03-5441-9864. http://meturl. com/manga2013

Spanish Wine vs. French Wine

Wine seminar with a Spanishstyle gourmet dinner in an international atmosphere.

Aug 24, 7-10:30pm, ¥9,980, Restaurant Legato, Nearest stn: Shibuya. www. wineandcooking.info

Effects of the East Japan Earthquake on Animals

Symposium on animals in Tohoku. Aug 24-25, ¥1,000 (pre-registration required).

Tokyo International Forum.

Nearest stn: Yurakucho. info@dokyoren.com. http://meturl.com/ animalwelfare2013

The 9th International Fab Lab Conference TED talk presenters MIT Director Neild Gershenfeld and filmmaker Jens Dyvik discuss the digital vs. the physical world. Aug 26, ¥5,000-10,000. Kanagawa Arts Theater. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. fablab@yokohamalab.jp. www.fab9jp.com/expo

TCS Improv Workshop

All levels welcome at weekly event. Beginner intensives available, see site for details.

Every Wed, 7-9pm, Our Space Studio. Nearest stn: Hatagaya. Tel: 03-5770-7401. www.tokyocomedy.com/ improv_comedy_workshop

Other Events Mitsu 10

Tokyo Street Hockey Association

Walking with Dinosaurs

Positive Psychology

Exploring happiness and fulfillment. Aug 3-4, all day, ¥36,200 (two days). Temple University. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban. Tel: 03-54419864. http://meturl.com/ positivepsyche2013

Working in a Theater

Running shows seamlessly, inc. stage management, lighting, sound and costume.

Ages 13-18. Aug 8, free, (registration required).

Meguro Persimmon Hall.

Nearest stn: Toritsudaigaku.

Tel: 03-3791-7000. www.nbs. org/english

What is Ballet?

Yuki Nagano on the history of the dance. JHS and up. Aug 10, 10am, free (registration required). Meguro Persimmon Hall. Nearest stn: Toritsudaigaku. ballet_info@ nbs.or.jp. www.nbs.or.jp/ english

How to Draw Manga Characters

From detailed technical advice to creative brainstorming

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Kids’ Cinema

Classic kids’ films from all over the world. Aug 2-3, 1:30pm, ¥300-500.

National Film Center.

Nearest stn: Takebashi. kids-cinema2013@momat. go.jp. www.momat.go.jp

Learning

今年は"にほんごをもの"にする

A terrifying haunted house themed on "teeth."

Ages 6 and up. Until Sep 23, 10am-4pm (scary) & 5pm-9pm (scarier), ¥800.

Tokyo Dome City. Nearest stn: Suidobashi. Tel: 03-38176001. www.mitsu10.com

Open forum where creatives discuss projects, ideas and cultural currents. Every first Mon, Cafe Pause. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. Tel: 03-6912-7711. www.pausetalk.org

Casual street-hockey group with regular meet-ups.

Every first, second and third Fri, various venues. Check website calendar for details. www.tokyohockey.com

Since 1949

Theatrical arena show feat.

Jurassic giants. Until Aug 7, ¥3,150-10,500. Saitama Super Arena. Nearest stn: Saitama-Shintoshin. Tel: 052-320-9000. http://wwdj.jp

Asian Festival

Fair with food from Myanmar, Cambodia, etc.

Aug 10-11, 10am-8pm, free.

Yoyogi Park. Nearest stn: Harajuku. Tel: 03-34696081. http://meturl.com/ asianfestivals2013

Marunouchi Kids' Jamboree

Workshops, performances and other kiddy activities.

Aug 12-14, 10am-5pm, free.

Tokyo International Forum.

Nearest stn: Yurakucho. Tel: 03-5211-9630. www.tif-kids. jp/2013

Thai Fair in Yokohama

Muay Thai showcases, idol performances, and more.

Aug 24-25, all day, free.

Yamashita Park. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. Tel: 045-681-1860. http://meturl. com/asianfestivals2013

Tokyo Yakult Swallows Half-Price Night Ball game party with half-priced beer and fireworks after the 5th inning. Aug 27, 6pm.

Jingu Stadium. Nearest stn: Shinanomachi. Tel: 0180-993-589. www. jingu-stadium.com

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 25

MOVIES

BY DON MORTON

LONE RANGER: ©2013 DISNEY AND JERRY BRUCKHEIMER, INC.; MAGIC MIKE: ©2012 THE ESTATE OF REDMOND BARRY LLC.ALL RIGHT RESERVED.; THE MAN WITH THE IRON FISTS: ©2012 UNIVERSAL PICTURES; THE MOTH DIARIES: © MD (QUEBEC) PRODUCTIONS INC./SAMSON FILMS LIMITED, 2011; HOPE SPRINGS: © 2012 GHS PRODUCTIONS, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.; SOMETHING FROM NOTHING: THE ART OF RAP: 2012©THE ART OF RAP FILMS LTD; THE PAPERBOY: ©2012 PAPERBOY PRODUCTIONS,INC.; REINCARNATED: (C)2013 VICE FILMS, INC., SNOOPADELIC PICTURES, INC.

More reviews and theater details: metropolis.co.jp/movies

Metpod

like Disney and Jerry B r uc k he i m e r a ny m ore .

Sure, you made those pirate movies worth watching, at least the first one, but Alice in Wonderland? Seriously? (Tell me it’s not true you’re doing a friggin’ sequel, and without T i m B u r to n . ) A n d n o w t h i s c h a r m le s s D i s ney/ Bruckheimer turkey, The Lone Ranger. Your Tonto is a bizarre clown in Kiss Army makeup, a sedated Jack Sparrow in moccasins with a dead crow on his head. He’s no Jay Silverheels. And Armie Hammer as the title ranger is now Tonto’s bumbling sidekick.

What’s up with that? Then there are the tonal inconsistencies and the bloated two and a half hour running length.

Well, it’s just Pirates of the Caribbean run aground in 19th century Utah, isn’t it? Did you think we wouldn’t notice? I couldn’t stop comparing it to a Road Runner cartoon—except those are funny. Sincerely, etc. (149 min) NEW

THE LONE RANGER

D

ear Johnny Depp: You’re many people’s favorite actor. And your fans and I like to think you’re in the acting biz for more than the

THE MOTH DIARIES

NEW

Things start going awry for Rebecca (Sarah Bolger) the moment a creepy new student (Lily Cole) arrives at her girls’ school. One by one, her friends fall ill or are expelled for inexplicably naughty behavior, and worse, her BFF (Sarah Gadon) seems to be enamored by the odd newcomer, who’s acting a lot like a bloodsucker. Directed by Mary Harron, who brilliantly adapted American Psycho, this gothic brew, based on Rachel Klein’s young adult novel, is a hormonally charged yet pallid attempt to inject a bit of latent lesbianism into the old teenage vampire shtick. Some good acting, but no real bite. (82 min)

money, of which at this point in your wondrous career you must have plenty. So we think maybe you should consider not working for evil, bland filmmaking entities

HOPE SPRINGS

There’s something wrong with Kay a nd A r nold’s seem in gly stable , 31-year marriage (no intimacy), so Kay signs them up for a week with a celebrity psychologist (Steve Carell, playing it straight). This is a brave examination of identifiable problems that beset real people of a certain age. They could be your parents or your grandparents. Or you. Some gags, but don’t mistake this sweet, quietly subversive film for a romantic comedy. Meryl Streep again aces her character, but the standout here is Tommy Lee Jones with a subtle, groundbreaking performance the like of which we’ve never seen before. (100 min)

eiga

T

he fine first feature film by director Ryohei Yoshino (he previously showed a short at the Gay & Lesbian Film Fest), Akaboshi, is also a coming out party for well-known voice actress Rom i Pa rk . Pa rk is celebrate d for her voice work in such animated series as Full Metal Alchemist, Bleach and Nana and Akaboshi is her first live action piece. The performances throughout are extraordinary. In addition to Park, child theater actor Aren (who was 10 at the time of the shooting) is superb.

The story concerns a Mom (Park) who is distraught at the disappearance of her husband. On the verge of a total breakdown she is discovered by a cult and they take her and her son Tamotsu (Aren) into their fold. The story examines a woman falling deep into a cult’s world-view, how the cult uses children to proselytize (there is also a teenage girl named Kanon, played by actress Vlada, in the cult) and the effect it has on the relationship between mother and child. While examining the mother and son dynamic the film also sheds light on how children can be pushed into adult roles in Japanese society. Go see this excellent effort from Yoshino and keep your eyes on this space for his future efforts.

(235 min) Rob Schwartz

SOMETHING FROM NOTHING: THE ART OF RAP

Though it’s unlikely that I personally would ever listen to rap music, like, on purpose, I learned stuff from this intelligent and spirited documentary from rapper-turned-Law & Order-actor Ice T and co-director Andy Baybutt. In it, Ice (who better?), working roughly geographically from the Bronx to Detroit to El Lay, does more than offer a history, concentrating instead on the creative techniques utilized by a roster of top rhyme-slingers, and asks some penetrating questions. Like why has rap failed to gain the respect accorded to blues and jazz? Some impromptu performances. Illuminating. (106 min)

movie news

T

MAGIC MIKE

THE PAPERBOY

Sometimes actors can’t tell the difference between big acting and good acting. In this perspirationsoa ke d , lu r id melo d ra m a f rom Precious director Lee Daniels, a super-slutty Nicole Kidman, as a prisoner groupie, and a miscast John Cusack, as a feral death row inmate, go for the former (in one scene both reaching orgasm in a prison visiting room while two meters apart), Matthew McConaughey nearly nods off, and Zac Efron mainly takes off his shirt (in one scene he is pissed on by Kidman). So daring it is, and profanely energetic, but overall for some reason bizarrely boring. Trying too hard. Japanese title: Paperboy: Manatsu no Inryoku. (107 min)

KEVIN MCGUE

he L one Ran g er, Disney’s reboot of the western that started as a radio serial in the 1930s, opened in the US earlier this summer to lukewarm critical reception and disappointing box office numbers.

However, Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer don’t seem too worried about a little bad press. During a recent visit to Tokyo, the two stars could only reminisce about how fun it was to make the film.

“There is no greater joy,” Hammer said of his chance to play the Texas lawman. “Putting on the mask and the massive hat and getting up on the white stallion to ride around next to Johnny kicking ass and taking names—it was great.” Depp recalled his young costar’s surprise that a paid job could also be so fun. The movie tells the story from the perspective of Tonto—a role Depp relished creating. “Like Captain Jack, or the Mad Hatter, or Ed Wood; it is playing someone who is outside,” the actor said during his first visit to Tokyo since coming to promote Dark Shadows last year. “I am interested in the outside, more than inside.”

The 50-year-old actor had a hand in designing makeup for the character, basing it on the painting I am Crow by Kirby Sattler. “I saw a bird on this guy’s head, like it was part of him, like it was his spirit guide,” Depp recalled. “I was happy to have a bird on my head. You should try it sometime.” The Lone Ranger opens in Japan Aug 2. Kevin Mcgue

26 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

NEW

A naive young Tampa kid gets his start in the male-stripper business, but don’t mistake this for a male version of Showgirls. Steven Soderb e r g h we n d s h i s w ay t h ro u g h the minefield of campiness and clichés such a subject presents, and comes up with a non-judgmental, increasingly dark allegory on doing somet h i n g sou l le ss just for t he paycheck. Particularly convincing is Channing Tatum as the titular M ike, whose own pre -movie s t a r e x p e r ie nce s con s ide ra bly informed the script. And Matthew McConaughey is tops as the savvy club owner. A rty but energetic , frank but funny, and smart with a heart. (110 min)

THE MAN WITH THE IRON FISTS

NEW

Robert Diggs (aka RZA) has loved those cheesy “wuxia” martial arts movies since he was a kid, and has long been collecting ideas for this ridiculous yet sporadically enjoyable homage/sendup pastiche. The production values are high, and he got Russell Crowe to play the sex-hound Jack Knife, and Lucy Liu to do Madam Blossom, a, well, madam . His biggest misstep (of several) is casting himself in the title role. Loved the warrior hookers, hated the gangsta rap soundtrack. It’s a good bad movie, literally visceral, exhausting yet endearing, and best enjoyed by fans of the genre who have been drinking. (96 min)

REINCARNATED

S n o o p D o g g we n t to J a m a i c a , embraced Rastafarianism, changed his name to “Snoop Lion” and cut a reggae album, which he repeatedly and portentously states is also called Reincarnated. Yeah, well, maybe.

Perhaps his gettin’ Rasta religion is a stab at making up for decades of promoting hate, violence, drugs, pimping and misogyny. Don’t work that way, Snoop. First you make the transformation, then you talk it up.

Mainly it’s major bong rips, very stoned people and a self-serving Snoop being famous in Jamaica; essentially a spliff-glazed 96-minute promo for the album. Can an old dogg learn new tricks? Japanese title: Snoop Dogg: Road to Lion. (96 min)

cinematic underground

T

© FOX STAR STUDIOS

he hit Hindi come dy Stanley Ka Dabba (Stanley’s Lunch B ox ; p ic t u re d ) is making ‘em laugh at Human Trust Cinema Shibuya (Cocoti Bldg , 7&8F, 1-23-16, Shibuya-ku; www.ht-cinema.com). It tells the tale of a smart and popular 4th grader who meets his match in a new teacher who—in a move surely to shock Japanese audiences—insists that his students share the prized contents of their bento with him…Late filmmaker Robert Kramer was one of the most subversive and influential figures in the American underground cinema of the ’60s and ’70s, before spending the final years of his life in France, where he could find appreciation and funding for his work. His Ice (1969) and the epic Milestones (1975), which follows a loose collection of characters as America struggles to overcome the Vietnam War and Watergate, will get a long-awaited re-release from Shibuya’s Eurospace (1-5 Maruyamacho, Shibuya-ku; www. eurospace.co.jp) from August 10…Prolific director Kiyoshi Kurosawa is marking his 30 years in the movie biz with an all-night screening at Shin-Bungeiza in Ikebukuro (3F, 1-43-5 Higashi-Ikebukuro Toshima-ku; www.shin-bungeiza.com) August 3, starting at 10pm. The man himself will be on hand to introduce four selections from his extensive filmography, including the psychological thriller Loft (2005). KM

THE LATEST DISH ON FOOD & DRINK IN THE BIG CITY

local flavors

NAKANO: A DRUNKARD’S DISCOVERY

Dining Out

huge collective band with the intriguing name of Wujabinbin. He has a passion for Brazilian music which we noted when our first drink was accompanied by the famous Sérgio Mendes song used in the build-up for World Cup ’98. The menu is both cheap and extensive, with all shochu a mere ¥500.

We opted for the Kirishima Black, drunk in honour of two Miyazaki residents sitting on the next seats. Ebisu is served in a respectable 435ml glass for just ¥550. 5-50-9 Nakano. Tel: 03-3382-2726.

Open Wed-Mon 7pm-3am. http://bacafe.jp

BAR SIDE Rarely does a bar name so aptly describe its location. This bar is so far to the side you could be forgiven for missing it. Bar Side provides a means of escape from the noisy izakaya, karaoke joints and sleazy kyabakura holes of Nakano. Here, music can be requested from a selection including classic rock to underground experimental Japanese material. When bartenders don’t drink it feels like a drug dealer/junkie relationship. But Bari-san at Side matches his customers almost drink for drink. And he reportedly sleeps in the bar, too. Drinks are ¥600-700 for a single, with no table charge. 5-57-2 Nakano. Tel: 03-3387-0552.

HEIBEE 平兵衛

After tiring of the mass of humanity near the station, we headed 20 minutes down Waseda Dori to Araiyakushi, which has a higher than usual foreign population due to guesthouses in the area. Heibee is not much to look upon from the outside, with no signs making it intimidating for first-timers. But this bar is an example of how wrong preconceptions can be. Wataru the owner has lived in Spain, and speaks good English. The interior is decorated with artefacts imported from his bedroom; his instruments, memorabilia from Real Madrid and a collection of CDs from all genres. Unwind by watching TV, choosing some music to enjoy, or just plain drinking. The bar serves a range of drinks and the prices are reasonable—¥700 for most drinks and a ¥400 table charge. Two hours flew by. 3-24-7 Kamitakada.

Tel: 03-3228-4776.

In the mazy streets of this Chuo Line neighborhood, bartenders begin to unwind as salarymen go to work.

By William Bradbury

TEN 天

This bar-restaurant famed for its chicken curry features two screens showing different movies and a free-to-use iPad if you want to drink alone while social networking. We sucked on a beer

or ka

no

-d

Araiyakushimae station (Tobu Shinjuku line)

Na

7Eleven

Sunkus

HEIBEE

7Eleven

7Eleven Otsumanakano High School

Lawson

Wase d

BA CAFÉ

a-dori

ri

BA CAFÉ バカフェ

Don’t be fooled by the second word in the name of this cosy spot on a corner of the mazy streets adjacent to Sun Mall. “Café” refers less to the drink selection and more to the casual vibe. Here skateboards and owls hang from the walls, dungarees are worn, and the two bartenders (one of whom is Mr. Ba himself) have some of the finest facial hair seen in the area. Ba is also a musician and in a

i

while absorbing scenes from The Who’s Quadraphenia. Draft Heartland is slightly pricy at ¥580, but the extra change is worth it for the calm atmosphere. Ten is quiet and has no clique of regulars to make outsiders—Japanese or otherwise—feel unwelcome. Look out for offers to join a lottery that can yield prizes of up to ¥35,000, though you have to return to bar to discover the result. A fine customer retention strategy that could add gambling to your list of vices. 5-36-1 Nakano. Tel: 03-33877357. Open lunch Wed-Sat from 11:50am until sold out; dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun & hols 6-11pm. www.barten.jp Nakano -do

AWA 立ち飲み 泡

We’ve often walked around peering in windows but lacking the will to open the door. But the times we gave ourselves that extra push, we’ve never regretted it. Awa is the ideal place to start your drinking session. It opens far earlier than the majority of bars, at 4pm. It’s also a convenient meeting point, situated less than a minute’s walk from Nakano station. The bar is one of contrasts. The bartender is suited up and drinks are prepared with care and precision—yet it is also bright, crowded and cheap. Beer is only ¥350 (plus a ¥100 table charge), while whisky is under ¥300—a refreshing change from the overpriced and overt seriousness of many Tokyo bars. Less a place to unwind and relax for hours than source of a quick one before dinner. 5-63-4 Nakano. Tel: 03-6431-0559. Open 4pm-1am.

Ministop

BAR SIDE TEN

AWA North exit Nakano station

Tozai line JR Chuo line

See the detailed Google map at meturl.com/drunkano

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 27

2013 Grand Open!

8 types of draft beer and over 80 types of bottled beer ALL 14:00-19:00 HOUR! ￥500 HAPPY - VEDETT EXTRA WHITE - KRIEK BELLE-VUE - EDELPILS - COCKTAILS - GLASS WINE

28 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

dor i bori-

Tokyo Stn o St

Tokyo International Forum

n

Kyobashi Stn Exit 5

uch

7min from Tokyo stn. Yaesu Central Exit, 5min from Kyobashi stn (Ginza Line) Exit 5 10min from Yurakucho Stn.

Yaesu Central Exit

Soto

B1F PCP BLDG, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku

Marunouchi Central Exit

Yur ak

Open: 11am-11pm (L.O. food 10pm/ drink 10:30pm) Lunch time: Weekdays 11am-2pm, Sat, Sun & Hols 11am-4pm TEL: 03-5220-2272 - Email: repos@eurobeer.net

BITES

THE LATEST DISH ON FOOD & DRINK IN THE BIG CITY

Dining Out

home booked

K

itchHike (http://kitchhike.com) does for the kitchen what CouchSurfing did for… um, couches. Visit the site to choose which homecooked food to scoff—in the chef’s actual home. Search via country to find those offering their culinary services, and for how much. Book your place or places, pay up in advance, and then post to let others know how it went. Ad hoc restaurateurs can try to tempt in punters with photos and tantalizing descriptions. The recently launched site is growing all the time, with the bulk of participants right here in Japan. A Niigata peach farmer awaits you with seasonal dishes, as does a Kamakura sushi wizard and many, many more.

veg city

vegemen

I

S

hin-Yokohama Raumen Museum (nearest stn: Shin-Yokohama; www.raumen.co.jp) may have opened in 1994 but that doesn’t mean they don’t keep up with the times. Some of the nine ramen shops within its noodley grounds have recently added items specifically for their more particular overseas visitors— especially the South Asian visitors currently flocking in to spend the cheaper yen. Veggie or non-pork/alcohol dishes are even bonafide in the soup department—a big deal by Tokyo standards. What’s more, special food items are marked with idiot-proof icons (think crossedout cow)—and they offer that classic pairing of Muslim prayer mats and free wi-fi.

nstead of moseying around Tokyo with a carrot in your pocket, just save http://veg-travel.com into your bookmarks and prepare for some meatless dining. The site is a multilingual guide to veggie- and religious- friendly options in a city where most wait staff believe “vegetarian” means “not a whole cow.”

Founder Reiko Maruyama spent some time living in China where she found vegetarian and halal restaurants to be quite common. On returning to Tokyo she resolved to make things easier for the demanding of diet. Maruyama plans to expand Veg-Travel to other cities—and other countries. Like facebook.com/vegtravel to stay connected.

We asked readers… which conbini takes the cake?

Lawson. Best fried food at the counter, best ticket service, best promotions. 7-Eleven. Best bentos, best ATMs for us dirty furners. Family Mart. Best pointcard.—Dan Orlowitz Seicomart. They need to expand into Tokyo. Lowest prices, highest quality and Hokkaido-sourced food means lower risk of glowing at night.—Jeff Quigley Mini Stop. Best. Soft-serve. Ever.—Lisa Wallin 7-Eleven. Shinsei bank (the ¥100 frozen chain and ramen wasn’t bad once upon a time).—Jason Ball The one that doesn’t perfunctorily give out plastic bags for every purchase... alas, such a conbini doesn’t exist in Japan.—WordofMouthA5 7-Eleven. I can withdraw money from their ATMs and they all sell cigarettes.—Adriane Morard Lawson. It’s very close to my house. Honestly I don’t see a difference between them.—Alice Odouxi 7-Eleven. The most convenient convenience store, which can also surprise with the best craft beer selection.—David Ashkanasy Family Mart. Has the best selection of candy and sweets. Yes, that’s what I base my evaluation on.— Jessi Nuss

diy tai

B

ack in the Old Country people used electronic toasted-sandwich makers. But those clever folk at Takara Tomy Arts have transformed the concept into something quite different. Make a replica of the classic fish-shaped snack taiyaki in your own home with the Okashi na Pan Taiyaki Course. And out of mere bread, too! It imprints a scaly fish onto the soft dough and seals in your choice of innards to make for a cute sandwich. Minimum spillage is an advantage, as is the possibility of concealing ingredients from picky eaters. Two sizes are available for the same price: oya that creates an 11cm fish for adults, and ko for kids, which spawns a 7cm minnow. What happens to the excess crusts? ¥1,260; available from Amazon and major electronics retailers. http://meturl.com/diytaiyaki

stalling

S

ummer is matsuri season a nd m at s u r i me a n fo o d st a l l s .

But aside from the classic yakisoba and okonomiyaki, some regional variations pop up. Look out for these rare gems: Taiyaki Parfait: Gut the classic fishshaped waffle and pop some ice cream on it for easy eating. Kyoto, Kobe.

Fried Pizza: Tastes like gyoza, sounds like heaven. Just don’t run for the bus afterwards. Osaka, Narita.

Candle Boy: Deepfried, mochi-wrapped sausage on a stick, sprinkled with almond slivers with chili, gingersoy, sugar-soy, mayonnaise or sesame miso sauce.

Yamagata.

Poppo yaki: Steamed bread with black sugar that doesn’t pop and doesn’t make you yak. Niigata.

Omelet Frank: Omelet-wrapped wiener with cheese, habanero and more. Nothing to do with Sinatra.

Fried Monja: Okonomiyaki just got grosser. Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside and apparently only 130 calories. Dip in cheese, kimchi, mentaiko and tuna mayonnaise. Adachi-ku.

Niku Maki Onigiri: Meat-wrapped rice balls. What’s not to like? Miyazaki, Tokyo.

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 29

JEFF W. RICHARDS

conbini corner

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All seats non-smoking

8/2 (FRI) 8/9 (FRI) 8/16 (FRI) 8/23 (FRI) 8/30 (FRI)

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August is here! Come relax on our comfortable terrace and drink our delicious Swan Lake craft beer.

On Fridays, come enjoy our special events and live it up!

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Nearest stations: Tokyo or Yurakucho. Open: Lunch 11am-2:30pm, Tea 2:30-5pm, Dinner (Mon-Fri) 5pm-4am LO 3:30am, (Weekends and hols.) 5pm-11pm LO 10pm

☎ 03-5222-1251www.miyoshi-grp.com/cardinal/pcm

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30 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

Takashi Kasai CPA Firm 4-1-2-302 Honcho, Kokubunji-shi, Tokyo support@kasaicpa.com www.kasaicpa.com

The majority of classified ads have moved online!

NOTE: PRINTED CLASSIFIEDS!

CLASSIFIEDS

Metropolis and its subsequent Classifieds section are printed every other week.

The upcoming publication dates and corresponding deadlines for print are as follows. This does not affect the online Classifieds, where ads are visible immediately after they are approved.

1 AT YOUR SERVICE

1.4 TRAVEL

1.1 HEALTH w

w

K I M I S H I M A D E N TA L OFFICE , MINAMI-AZABU, M I N AT O - K U , T O K YO .

English-speaking dentist, 3min from Hiroo stn, specializing in both cosmetic a n d g e n e r a l d e n t i s t r y.

State - of-t h e - a r t fa c ility and friendly staff. Special offer for Metropolis readers: 30% off dental check-up.

03-6277-4217 http://kimidental-office.com/

J A P A N ’ S M O S T A F F O R D A B L E H E A LT H INSURANCE. If you feel like you’re throwing money away on insurance, come on over to HealthOne and start saving today! Three-, s ix- a n d 12- m o nth p la n s .

Inpatient /outpatient cove ra g e fo r i l l n e s s a n d injury. Online enrollment; pay by credit card or at convenience stores. www.healthone.jp info@ h e a l t h o n e . j p 0 5 0 -3 4 2 4 6713

N A R I TA A I R P O R T C A R / MINIVAN TRAN SFER S E RV I C E . C h e a p e r t h a n a taxi. English - speaking d rive r. M e e t a n d g re e t .

Free baby seat. Luggage assistance. Dependable Safe - Ea sy- Q uic k Airport Tra n s fe r S e r vi c e . B O O K NOW! Email Reservation@ To k yo A i r p o r t e r. c o m . www.tokyoairporter.com

1.7 BUSINESS SERVICES

NIJO-SEITAIIN, JAPANESE CHIROPRACTIC HEALING AND BODY CARE. Our clients are those who have not recovered from hospital or chiropractic care elsewhere.

We treat backache, hernias, shoulder discomfort, etc. Our head office was established in 1970 in Kyoto. Our Tokyo practitioner is a graduate of Fordham University in New York City. ¥9000/70min.

03-3449-1880 http://kazryu. jp kazryukaz@gmail.com 2 - 1 6 - 2 - 5 0 2 Ta k a n a w a , Minato-ku, Tokyo

SPORTS PHYSIOTHERAPY ( p h y s i c a l t h e r a p y) c a r e in Hiroo. Native Engli sh speaking therapists specializing in sports i n j u r i e s , p o s t- o p e ra t ive rehabilitation, back/neck pain, running related, headaches, orthotics, ergonomic consultations and women’s health. www. tokyophysio.com 03-34436769

1.2 HAIR & BEAUTY

LAW OFFICE IN KAWASAKI (next to Tokyo), member o f t h e Yo ko h a m a B a r Association. Legal service in English for traffic accidents, divorce, inheritance, bankruptcy, business cases (contracts, establishing a company, trademarks, etc.) and other legal problems.

Email: web@smkw.biz http://www.sumikawa.net/

1.8 GENERAL SERVICES

P S Y C H I A T R Y / P SYC H OTH E R APY (心療 内科 ). Dr. Ryuko Ishikawa, MD, licensed in both the US and Japan, bilingual, wellrespected by international clients, available at Tajima Hospital, located in front of Ryogoku stn. National Insurance accepted.

Appointments: 03-3634-6111 Ta j i m a H o s p i t a l : 2 -2 1 -1 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo

SHIBAURA DENTAL CLINIC ENGLISH-SPEAKING D E N T I S T. G e n e r a l a n d cosmetic dental clinic. Dentist is a graduate of Harvard Dental School, with over 20 years’ experience with dental practices in the USA, Japan.

Blue Shield, Japanese National Insurance accepted. 5min walk from JR Tamachi stn.

Open Mon-Sat. 03-5442-8525 www.shibaura-dental.com/

O N LY C U T Z O N E s a l o n provides a hair cut service for only ¥1000.

5min walk from Kita-Senju stn . Fri e n d ly En g l i s h speaking staff is available.

Contact us at 03-3 8 821550. Open from 10am until 7pm, 7 days a week. http:// meturl.com/onlycutzone

1.3 MOVING

CHEAPEST, QUICKEST AND SAFEST! Transporter Tokyo supports your moving and delivers your stuff. Moving for singles or couples from ¥12,000. Delivery (furniture, motorbikes, etc.) from ¥7000. English, French and Japanese -speaking staf f available. Inquiries: info@ t r a n s p o r t e r- t o k y o . c o m w w w.tra n s p or te r-tokyo. com/english/contact Tel:036715-9391 Fax: 03-6715-9392 Ad d re s s : 3 -2 9 - 8 N i s h i Rokugo, Ota-ku, Tokyo

additional fees. Roleoriented page layouts for administrators/teachers/ students. Lesson reminders by email. English demo site available. ¥26,800/m. info@ bookers-on.net http://www. bookers-on.net 03-63043031

LOVI N G BABY MA S SAG E .

Teaching mothers, fathers and other family members professional baby massage and child yoga techniques from internationally acclaimed Peter Walker’s “Developmental Baby Massage” and “YogaGym”.

E/J. Private sessions from ¥4000. Small groups from ¥3000. Four-session discount. Call Shino at 080 -3362- 04 29 or email babymassage123@gmail. com.

2 FIND A PLACE 2.1 GUESTHOUSE

SAKURA HOU SE . Leading multilingual real estate a g e n c y i n To k y o s i n c e 1992. Over 1600 furnished apartments and guest/ share house rooms, from ¥52,000/m, utilities included. No key money/ guarantor/agent fee.

Contact us: 03-5330-5250 info @ s a kura - hou se .co m www.sakura-house.com

2.2 RENT UNDER ¥200,000 FREE PROFESSIONAL ADVICE by English-speaking lawyer, accountant and visa support officer. Metropolis is organizing a free consulting opportunity for our readers at our office in Roppongi.

Any problems related to legal matters, taxes, company start-up, visa issues, etc.

Sat, Sep 21, 1-5pm. By appointment only. Email: events@metropolis.co.jp

BOOKERS, SCHOOL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM ON WEB. No need for clerk staf f anymore. BOOKERS manages students, teachers, lessons and fees. Real-time reservation via web 24/7, 365 days/year. J/E bilingual webpage, documentation and support without

F O N TA N A , e s t a b l i s h e d over 30 years ago. With a wide range of locations at competitive prices, our apartments and guesthouses are some of the best. Let our international team find you the perfect p l a c e t o l i v e i n To k y o . fo n t a n a @ g o l . c o m w w w.

TokyoCityApartments.net 03-3382-0151

classifieds.metropolis.co.jp

Issue 1014 Issue 1016 FRI, AUG 30

FRI, SEP 13

Deadline:

Deadline:

Aug 22, 3pm

Sep 5, 3pm

To k yo l o c a t i o n s . N o key m o n ey/g u a ra nto r/a g e nt fe e re quire d . N ew, clean apartments, simple contract system, full English support.

Call us today! 03-5437-5233 www.japt.co.jp

unfurnished apartments, relocation service, furniture rental, and property sale s and management .

Please call 0120-957-520. www.tokyoapartments.jp

P R I VAT E F U R N I S H E D APARTMENTS. Odakyu line: Mukogaoka-Yuen/YomiuriLand-Mae, 20/30min from Shinjuku. Keikyu line: Hatcho-Nawate, 15min from Shinagawa. 1K~2LDK ¥58,000/m~¥120,000/m.

Te l : 0 4 4 - 93 3 -70 0 0 Email:mh@minowagroup. jp www.minowagroup.jp/ minowahomes

S E RVI C E D A PA RTM E NT S in a quiet residential area of Hiroo. Studios and suites. 4min from Hiroo s t n . R a te s : D a i ly ¥ 78 0 0.

Weekly ¥68 50 -/day.

Monthly ¥5900-/day. Over three months ¥4950-/ day. Tax, utilities included. f r o n t d e s k@ a z a b u c o u r t . com www. azabucour t . com/ 03-3446-8610

TO ADVERTISE in Metropolis, log on at www.metropolis. co.jp/classifieds.

2.7 OFFICE SPACE STYLISH OFFICE, 2MIN FROM HARAJUKU STN. Conference room, meeting room, communication space, traditional tea ceremony room, color laser printer, triple-locking system for security, dedicated internet lines in every room. From ¥49,000/m. Mr. Matsuoka: 090-2405-0022

COMPASS OFFICES, MEGURO, SHINAWAGA-KU. Fully furnished offices for 1-100 people, virtual offices and meeting rooms. Flexible terms. Co-working and mobile working in the largest business lounge in Tokyo.

Call 03- 4540 -1234, email jpsales@compassoffices. com or visit www. compassof fices.co.jp for more info.

EMERGENCY HOUSING. Non-profit Megumi House is available 24/7 to help the emergency housing needs of the international community. Since 1968.

Donation for stay. Email for info. housinginjapan@yahoo.com

TO ADVERTISE IN JAPAN’S NO.1 ENGLI SH MAGAZINE , log on at www.metropolis.co.jp/classifieds or email your commercial ads to commercial@metropolis.co.jp.

2.3 RENT OVER ¥200,000

SERVICED OFFICES/virtual offices/co-working space/ event space/cafe lounge in Ginza. A place to connect with future business friends.

Monthly membership ¥ 1 5 , 7 5 0 ~. M ov i e : h t t p : // www.youtube.com/ watch?v=gTxIQTuBFk0 Web: http://league-ginza.com/ Email: info@league-ginza. com

3 EDUCATION 3.2 JAPANESE TEACHERS

I C H I I C O R P O R AT I O N .

Over 600 affordable, quality-furnished apartments in central

TO K YO A PA RT M E N T S .

Corporate housing provider offering short and long-term a pa r tm e nts th roughout c e n t r a l To k y o . F u l l y customizable packages!

Serviced, furnished and

JAPANESE LESSONS for all levels given by experienced private teacher along the Yamanote line.

First and second lessons free.

Let's enjoy learning the Japanese language and culture. Please call Setsuko. nihongo123123@yahoo. co.jp 090-1210-9285

Metropolis reserves the right to refuse, cancel or edit any ad without notice. Metropolis takes no responsibility for the quality of items or services advertised. Please carefully examine vendors or items offered before commitment. Please be careful when contacting and arranging to meet people.

Visit classifieds.metropolis.co.jp for complete listings.

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 31

Many more Classified ads online! Please visit classifieds.metropolis.co.jp

3.5 LANGUAGE EXCHANGE Arabic, French, English. Hi, I'm a friendly foreigner based in Asaka-shi seeking a serious language exchange at a cafe. Please feel free to contact me via email. khawlamarouen@hotmail. com 08041271984 Chinese and English. Hi, I'm a Taiwanese girl seeking a Chn/E exchange. Please contact me. roway1011@gmail.com Chinese, English, Spanish. I am a beginner at Chn. I can teach you E basics. I am a native Japanese, but my E is business level. Also, I can speak Sp at an intermediate level. elsalvadorjapan@yahoo.es English and Japanese. UK guy, 41, wants a language exchange partner in Tokyo/Chiba. My Japanese is basic, but I am a keen student. Let's talk about exciting stuff! stevendorrans@ yahoo.com English and Japanese. American English speaker doing student exchange at Keio University for a year seeking a friend/partner to improve J skills. More than willing to improve and teach E in return. Tokyo area. jtckeio@ gmail.com English and Japanese. E/J exchange sought around Akishima. smartguy@i. softbank.jp Mention Metropolis for FREE ADMISSION

THE RACE IS ON!

Groups of 4 or more can compete with each other

JR S

oto

bo li

ne

Keiy oH igh wa y

Admission Line JR Keiyo

1 ticket (7 min)=¥2000, 3 tix=¥5000, 5 tix=¥7500

Airbrush Tattoos have arrived in Tokyo!

Decorate Your Hot Summer Body

Temporary tattoos that last up to five days.

Authentic looking tattoos, brilliant designs that look like the real thing. Easily removable.

Spray Tattoo Pop-up shop at the Pink Cow. Roppongi St.

Donki

www.facebook.com/SprayTattoo twitter.com/SprayTattoo

Gaien-higashi St. Almond

MCD Roi Building

B1F Roi Bldg, 5-5-1 Roppongi Minato-ku, Tokyo www.thepinkcow

What makes us unique?

Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. on Weekdays 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on Sat, Sun and hols

BungelingBay バンゲリングベイ 3F 4-22-8 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku 4-6-10 Nakamachi, Setagaya-ku

info@bungelingbay.com www.bungelingbay.com facebook.com/bungeebisu Tel: 03-6905-6573

32 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

4 HOUSEHOLD GOODS 4.1 FURNITURE & FITTINGS Bed, Ikea , full-size d , w/t wo drawer side table ¥10,000. No delivery. dwade14238@gmail.com 08035056802 Curtain/blind, Asian bamboo, brown (H190xW180cm), rolls up by pulling a cord, in good condition, several y/o ¥3800. Shinagawa. leavocet-b5@ yahoo.co.jp http://www.kimari.com/ forsale/moving.html

English and Japanese. American male, been in Japan awhile, but I still cannot speak J well. If you can help me out, please drop me a line. I can help you with E. We can also be friends. mostfunparty@yahoo.co.jp

Table, kitchen, small, seats two, w/two chairs, in excellent condition ¥5000.

No delivery. dwade14238@gmail.com 08035056802

English and Japanese. American male seeking friends to meet during free time. Could help with your E. baralaoraxl@gmail.com 03-3455-4576 English and Japanese. Bulgarian male, 35, fluent in E (university diploma for English language teacher), with basic J, seeking someone to help me with J. I can help with E in return.

Nihonbashi or central Tokyo area. stoyanov.zh@gmail.com

Sofa, Nitori, '11, reclines, both ends adjustable to wide angle, seats two ¥1900. fryhard@hotmail.com

4.2 APPLIANCES Fan, Planex E S-AFANE-S and ES-AFANS-W, bladeless, oval/round, new, unused, boxed, two fans available, silver/white ¥5000/each. broadmind@ gmail.com http://tinyurl.com/mx2ll68 Rice cooker, Zojirushi, IH, '08, in good condition ¥9000. Delivery in Tokyo area ok. mizi2005@hotmail.com Washer, large-load capacity, in excellent condition ¥10,000. No delivery. dwade14238@gmail.com 08035056802

4.3 SAYONARA SALE

English and Japanese. Hi, I'm a friendly foreigner based in central Tokyo who's seeking a serious language exchange at a cafe. The closer to Azabu, the better. よろしく。 allonhodes@gmail.com

Sayonara sale! Fridge ¥20,000.

Washer ¥10,000. Brother copier/ printer ¥5000. Rice cooker ¥2000.

Pick up only Fujisawa. Photos available. f.savaidis01@optusnet.com. au 090-9647-7839

English and Japanese. Seeking E/J exchange partner around Akishima/ Tachikawa. Email if interested. smartguy@i.softbank.jp

Sayonara sale! Desk chair ¥1500/ obo. Dining table ¥50,000. Various appliances. Cheap/free. Preference given to those who take more items. marij333@yahoo.com http:// yokohamasayonarasale.wordpress. com/

English and Japanese. SJF, 30s, seeks native English speaker for E/J language exchange. Prefer weekday evenings or weekends in central Tokyo. Serious only. usgmkgrzk@gmail.com

Sayonara sale! Large piano, double bed, sofa, large stereo, speakers, etc. yaoyu@yahoo.co.jp 080-3737-8678

5 HOBBIES&INTERESTS 5.1 CAMERAS

Fre nc h , Engli sh , Japane se .

European man seeking a language exchange partner to improve his Japanese. I can teach you Fr or E. Let's enjoy sharing our cultures and interests. West of Tokyo preferable, but Yokohama or central Tokyo are ok. understanding_life@hotmail.com

Monopod, Slik S-Pole II, 3.6kg, w/ compact ball head (1.6kg) and cover, in great condition ¥5000. Pick up Akihabara, Kagurazaka, Sumida-ku. contact.tsypa@gmail.com

French, English, Russian, Spanish, Japanese. Hello, I'm a Japanese man, 20s, living in Tokyo, seeking someone who I can practice E, Fr, Sp, Rus with.

I'd be glad to help you improve your Japanese. Please feel free to contact me. zeno77dst@hotmail.com

Rugby balls, Gilbert, size 5 ¥2500. Can deliver by mail. samrosh123@gmail.com

German and Japanese. Japanese female, 30s, J/E bilingual, is seeking a native German speaker for a language

6VEHICLES 6.1 CARS, PARTS, & ACCESSORIES

3.9 TEACH ME! Private martial arts teacher sought.

Interested in energy and meditation more than combat. I have an excellent meditation and multiple healing teacher (if anybody needs one, ask me).

So, I'm more interested in the breathing and inner strength. Thank you. earth_ travel_joy@hotmail.com

Fridge, full-sized, two-door, in excellent condition ¥ 10,0 0 0. dwade14238@gmail.com 08035056802

English and Japanese. Hi! JF seeking a language exchange partner around Yokohama, Kawasaki. I can help your Japanese. Let's have fun conversations! from.kaori0113@gmail.com

As soon as you walk in, you will immediately notice the positive, welcoming, and friendly atmosphere. The heart and soul of Bungeling Bay is such. Our instructors are experienced, specialized and accustom to working together with elite athletes. 90% of our clients are successful business professionals.

German and Japanese. JF seeks Ger/J language exchange partner. Seit Sechs Monaten lerne ich Deutsch aber ich spreche Englisch. F/M ok. If interested, drop me a line. gardenstate2005@ hotmail.com

English and Japanese. American English teacher seeking a language exchange partner with some good ideas to help me learn J. I can help with your English. Shinjuku, Shibuya preferred. Please mail me your schedule. englteachertkj@yahoo.com

English and Japanese. JM, 30, seeks native English speaker for language exchange around Omiya, Saitama. tokyolocalize@hotmail.com

2013 SUMMER

exchange. I have a B1 certificate, but need to practice speaking Ger. Please feel free to contact me. german. language.tokyo@gmail.com

5.2 SPORTS EQUIPMENT

5.3 MUSICAL EQUIPMENT Piano, Yamaha P-140, digital, built-in loudspeakers, w/stand and pedal, in perfect condition, bought in '09 ¥45,000. Pick up Kagurazaka. cjriach@ hotmail.com

JCE AUTOS - THE A U T O M O B I L E PROFESSIONALS. Specializing in car buy-backs, door-todoor shipping, long-term car storage and any other carrelated matters. If you need assistance with your car, we are here to help. Tel: 03-68683366 or 090 -9362- 5098 inquiries@jce-autos.jp www.jce-autos.jp

6.3 BICYCLES, PARTS, & ACCESSORIES Bike and child seat, in good condition ¥10,000. Negotiable. Pick up Sumida-ku. contact.tsypa@gmail.com Road bike, Giant TCR, M-size frame, yellow/black, as new, currently disassembled, various parts available.

New ¥226,000. Sell ~¥60,000. Price depends on parts. View Shin-Nakano. cjriach@hotmail.com Road bike, Devinci Millennium Optimum Carbon C-T 61cm, suits rider around 187cm, w/Ultegra nine-speed shifters, derailleur, 105 cranks, brakes, XSR-2 rims, Schwalbe tires, Serfas saddle, Cateye computer, Sachs bottle holder, Shimano SPD pedals ¥80,000. cjriach@hotmail.com

7 GENERAL 7.1 PHONES Mobile phones, Nokia X3, two in box, touch screen, black, hardly used, in excellent condition, w/ accessories, protective cases ¥10,000/ both. Ebisu area. Photos available. tokyotokyo1530051@yahoo.com Smartphone, Panasonic 101P Lumix, SoftBank, 13.2-megapixel, water resistant, two m/o, w/cable, charger, earphones ¥8000. shiploo2003@ yahoo.com

7.2 FASHION Ring, Tiffany's, legacy edition ('12), size 6, platinum, w/legacy cut pink sapphire and 1.98-carat diamonds. New US$13,500. Make an offer. Shinagawa.

Can meet at Tiffany's for verification. stringbean71@hotmail.com

7.3 MISCELLANEOUS BB guns, regular, non-gas type, in good condition. davenport_j@ymail. com

8 COMPUTERS 8.2 HARDWARE Tablet, Galaxy Tab 7.7 SC-01E, SIMfree, as new, w/box, accessories, screen guard and leather folio stand cover, 32GB/Wi-Fi/3G/LTE connectivity options ¥22,000/obo. kizuki.buy@ gmail.com

8.3 SOFTWARE E/Win XP, Home Edition, w/SP2, English CD, original packaging, manuals, working and unregistered product key ¥12,000. Pick up AzabuJuban stn. craigs815@gmail.com 090-1559-3656

10 HELP! 10.1 HELP ME Sketch artist to draw basic scenes in Meguro. Great project job for art student. Tel: 090-7729-1195 cliff@ cliffworks.net

JOBS

To advertise: commercial@metropolis.co.jp

03-4588-2277

English-speaking Beauty Salon in Hiroo

AMBITIOUS

Tel: 03-3440-6144

www.amb.ne.jp

Beauty consulting & personal management

Therapist, Sakura has experience working in New York and London MENU

ORGOGLIO DEL CASALTA ITALIAN RE STAURANT is seeking kitchen support staff, dishwasher and service staff. E/J conversation skills necessary, Italian preferable. 10am-12am, 6-7-hour shifts, five days/week ¥950/h. 1F Hiroo Bldg, 3-12-40 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Contact 090-2776-3182 or donorgoglio@ gmail.com. www.orgogliodelcasalta. com STRONG ENGLISH WRITER SOUGHT. Seeking a strong English writer to join my marketing team. Responsibilities would include supporting marketing event planning and execution, editing and drafting marketing messages, doing basic research on industry topics, editing press releases, etc. Candidates must be native English speakers from the US, UK, Canada, or Australia/NZ, and take pride in their writing. Email pete.jedrey@ gmail.com to apply. www.kvh.co.jp TRANSPORTER TOKYO is seeking full-time moving and sales staff.

Requirements: valid visa (e.g., spouse visa, permanent residency), speak E nglish and Japane se , Japane se driver’s license. Salary: ¥250,000 (first three months), then ¥280,000, plus commission. Please contact us by phone or email to schedule an interview. info@transporter-tokyo. com 03-6715-9391

10.2 SUPPORT

NEED TO TALK? We’re here to listen.

TELL LIFELINE: free, anonymous English counseling daily from 9am-11pm by trained volunteers: 03-5774-0992. TELL COUNSELING: affordable multilingual p syc hothe rapy by acc re dite d Western-trained professionals, a CIGNA International Provider: 03-4550-1146. TELL website: www. telljp.com. Follow us on Facebook and Twitter @TokyoLifeLine.

THE JAPAN HELPLINE, 24 hours a d ay, fro m a ny wh e re , a b out a ny t h i n g . Fro m e m e rg e n c y assistance to simple questions.

Visit www.jhelp.com/ and press “ he lp,” or call 0 570 - 0 0 0 -911.

To volunteer or support, please contact team@jhelp.com. www. jhelp.com/

WEST PAPUA: ONE SOUL , ONE PEOPLE . Fifty years ago, West Papua should have been an independent country. Since 1969, West Papua has been invaded and the people robbed of their rights, culture and country. Help support West Papuans’ desire to

Summer slimming course (90 min) ....................... ¥21,000 ➝ ¥8,400 Photofacial for wrinkles and facelift (60 min).......... ¥25,000 ➝ ¥8,400 IPL Hair Removal .................................................. ¥16,000 ➝ ¥8,400~ Semi Permanent Makeup* (Eyeliner or Eyebrows) .... ¥52,500 ➝ ¥21,000~

CHAT HOSTS & TEACHERS WANTED

BY LEAFCUP @ Tokyo, Iidabashi, Shibuya, Yokohama, Omiya. Seeking enthusiastic and proficient English, Korean, French, Spanish and/or German speakers who can teach and lead lively conversations. ¥1000-¥1500/h. Apply online: www.leafcup.com/job.htm ONLINE COMMUNITY MANAGER. Jap a n ’s l a rg e s t o n l i n e i n b o u n d travel portal, www.japantourist. jp, is seeking an editor/writer with previous experience managing online communities and curating content.

Must be proactive, mission-focused and able to deal with diverse personalities.

Native-level English is essential; Japanese ability is helpful. info@ japantourist.jp N EW LY O PE N E D R E STAU R A N T, WORLD BEER MUSEUM, located in the Yokohama dockyard area near Landmark Tower, is seeking part-time hall staff ¥1000/h~. Japanese ability is required. Please send your CV by email to Kondo HR Manager. Email: keiichi. kondo@zato.co.jp Dial: 0120-233-182 http://www.world-liquor-importers. co.jp

be free. http://tapol.gn.apc.org/ davidhalpern@7ymail.com ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TOKYO. If you have a problem with drinking, we can help.

English-speaking meetings daily.

03-3971-1471 inquiries@aatokyo. org http://aatokyo.org Infertlity support group. TTC Tokyo is an infertility support group in Tokyo which provides informal opportunities for women and men experiencing infertility to connect with one another.

Please visit our website for more info. www.ttctokyo.org Sober support group. I am looking to form a small sober support group in or near the Azabu area. Non-12 Step, meet on weekends. Just to share and support. Interested? Please reply. wide_ide7@yahoo.com

11 MESSAGES

*includes a free follow-up treatment one month after.

Near National Azabu Supermarket

AMBITIOUS Hiroo stn Soup Exit 1 Stock

Arisugawa Segafredo Park

Mitsubishi UFJ Bank

National Azabu Supermarket

Strong, beautiful, flexible Transform your body & soul at BASI PILATES! Offering you “Authentic Pilates” Metropolis Campaign

Admission Fee: ¥15,750 ¥0 Trial Machine Private Lesson: ¥10,000 ¥8,400 Package 3 Machine Private Lessons

Machine Private Lessons available at our Roppongi studio Lessons in English available Studios in Roppongi, Ginza, Nakameguro and more

03-6425-7054 • roppongi@basipilates.jp www.basipilates.jp/english/

Staffed by experienced ophthalmologists, we offer not only LASIK, but the examination and treatment of eye diseases.

here in Metropolis Magazine and make it special! Contact us through our website at http://classifieds. metropolis.co.jp.

MY CHEESIEST, most adorable croissant,Pilot Robin Sola! I love you to bits and cherish every second we spent together. I can’t wait for the next time I will be seeing you!

Tongkumong joshimhera! Love, your little baby xxx

¥30,000 ¥18,000

Japanese Health Insurance Supported

4F Renai Aoyama Building, 3-3-11 Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku Tokyo 107-0061

For your clearer vision call 03-5772-1451

12 SOCIAL SCENE 12.1 LET’S PARTY

11.1 PERSONAL MESSAGES

WRITE A M ES SAG E FO R YOU R SPECIAL SOMEONE! Want to do so m eth in g d if fe re nt fo r your frie nd s , coworke rs , family or significant others? Write anything, from birthday messages to proposals, and so much more!

Leave an everlasting message

JAPAN I NTE R NATI O NAL PARTY - Summer Festival.

Sat, Aug 24, 6:30-9pm, Devi Fusion (Roppongi). Japan’s biggest international party.

250 people expected. All-youcan-drink and free snacks.

J a p a n e s e m e n : ¥ 4 0 0 0.

Othe rs : ¥3000. M obile : getyourfriend.com/mobile/ jiparty@hotmail.com 0901 7 3 5 - 5 4 0 5 h t t p : // w w w. getyourfriend.com/

www.maple-ortho.com/en/index.html #1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 33

Many more Classified ads online! Please visit classifieds.metropolis.co.jp Shinjuku/Aoyama by train. http:// www.tef.or.jp/tmg/en_index.jsp

J O I N T H E B I G G E S T, B E S T, M O S T P O P U L A R INTERNATIONAL PARTY! Great people, drinks and food!

Meet new friends and party with nice people in a friendly atmosphere. Events in Tokyo (Ginza, Azabu Roppongi) and Osaka. ¥1500-¥2000. http ://gaitomo.com/ info@gaitomo.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L PA R T Y @ LEAFCUP. Come join us and have fun. Men ¥3000.

Foreigners/women ¥2000.

All-you-can-drink-and-eat.

S hibuya a n d O miya : Aug 10 a n d 24 . Iid a ba s h i a n d Yokohama: Aug 3 , 17 and Sep 7. For more info: www. leafparty.com

13 CLUBS & INTERESTS 13.1 SPORTS

PLAY RUGBY. The Tokyo Crusaders are a friendly, but keen, international rugby club. Devoted to the game and its social side, the “Cru” welcomes all players and supporters.

Established in 1990, the Cru plays in the Shuto League 1st Division. http:// www.facebook.com/tokyo.crusaders www.tokyocrusaders.com TA M B O U R E L L I . Ve r y u n i q u e new sport from Scotland. Using a tambourine -like instrument as a sports racquet, players hit a shuttlecock! We play two or three tim e s/m o nth o n we e ke n d s in Meguro with many socials. Join us!

More details: www.tamjapan.org/ en/ info@tamjapan.org All-level tennis group in Tokyo.

Serious and motivated tennis players sought by active tennis group to join their weekly sessions in central Tokyo.

We have advanced and intermediate groups on weekday evenings. Beginner and low-intermediate also welcome. No entrance or membership fees. Reasonable participation fees. tokyo.tennis@ yahoo.fr Badminton club in Tokyo. Small, international group seeks players from abroad. If you know basic footwork and strokes as a serious sport, you could definitely enjoy playing with us. mune2006@hotmail.co.jp http://www. geocities.jp/mune_albat/page4.html Diving in Izu. Get in touch to talk about scuba diving near Tokyo.

Information on scuba lessons, equipment advice, dive trips, monthly social events, CPR training, etc. kowtokyo@yahoo.co.jp Futsal player. Want to play futsal on weekends in Tokyo? Please introduce yourself (name, age, nationality, where you live, whether you belong to another team). futsaluk@yahoo.co.jp

AMERICAN FOOTBALL .

Nihon Unisys Bulls, X league Central Division, seeks fit players w/ US college football experience for all positions.

Practice every Sat/Sun from 10am-3pm (including meeting) in Tokyo/Saitama (time & venue subject to c h a n g e ). At te n d a n c e a t practice must be over 60%.

Please contact for tryout info and send your profile to team admin. bullsxleague@gmail. com http://www.unisys.co.jp/ football/ ALL-NATIONALITY TOUCH FOOTBALL. Non-contact tag rugby (OZ tag) and Rugby League players. We play every Sat from 10am in Tatsumi.

M/F and beginners welcome!

Good exercise and fun! Many other activities such as BBQs and drinking parties! Email for details. tokyorugbyleague@ hotmail.com http://ameblo.jp/ tokyo13warriors AMATEUR RUGBY LEAGUE PLAYERS . Japan ANZAC S Rugby League team is seeking Rugby League players for J a p a n e s e Ru g by Le a g u e official games from Apr to S e p. Eve r yo n e we lco m e .

Contact for more details. japananzacs@gmail.com

TO K YO M E TRO P O LITAN GYM , equipped to satisfy people of all levels. Starting from ¥600/2 . 5h including pool use with no additional fees. Excellent facilities,1min from Sendagaya stn, less than 5min from Roppongi/

34 • DOWNLOAD OUR PODCAST AT • PODCAST.METROPOLIS.CO.JP

Gaijin Golfers. Come join the most fun and active golf group in Japan for expats, foreign residents and English-speaking Japanese. Excellent network for finding golf partners, regular golf outings and lots more! info@gaijingolfers.com http://www. gaijingolfers.com I want to play futsal/football! Park kick-around, joining/forming a futsal team, hiring a pitch - anything. My schedule is flexible. Skills-wise, I'm not exactly Ronaldo, but I love footy and am an alright guy. gaman02@ hotmail.com Interested in tai chi? Then why not start now! Take a step to counter the stresses of daily living. Practice is in Toyama Park on Sun mornings, near Takadanobaba stn. chifact@gmail.com Quality football. Interested in playing football at the weekend and training midweek? Want to enjoy a few beers after a good run out? If you consider yourself a quality player, please drop us a note. bfcvagabonds@ gmail.com River kayaking. Seeking people who would like to do some kayaking near Tokyo. I am a Canadian with my own two-man kayak. Mail me for details. M/F ok. Nonsmokers, please. minamibluesea@yahoo.com Tennis anyone? Seeking tennis partner on Tue or Wed at Komazawa Koen, but can travel elsewhere in Tokyo. I have just recently gotten into tennis again, but am confident that I will be back in form soon. pdvtokyo@ gmail.com 09083119074

13.2 LEISURE MCARTHUR HEIGHTS. Take a break where General Douglas McArthur did! One hour from Tokyo by car or direct train. Beautiful cabins on the ocean, w/onsen, beach, shopping. mcarthurheights@yahoo.comm Free Japanese home cooking lessons. Japanese wife offers casual home cooking in English for free at her house near Kawasaki stn. Weekdays during the day only. You pay the cost of ingredients. tome.haruka-soushi@ ezweb.ne.jp

13.4 MUSIC American fast hardcore band. We're seeking a regular drummer. You can find "Agent of the Grand Canyon" on Facebook. If you're interested, email us. twelvesunday@gmail.com http:// www.myspace.com/agcpunk Drums wanted around Yokohama.

Seeking a drummer who could help us release a CD and perform a show as a support member. We play rock and have rehearsals around ShinYokohama. m_a_b1998@yahoo.co.jp Finnish/Swedish music lover wanted. Seeking fiddlers (violinists) and other musicians to play traditional northern European/Scandinavian music together. unicornio@nifty.com Guitarist seeks band. Guitarist seeks other players to jam with. Some structured material, some improv. I listen to Robert Quine, Robert Fripp, Keith Leven and jazz. edonara@yahoo. com Playing acoustic guitar. Japanese seeking buddy to play together. I live in Tokyo. I like English rock, pop, '80s pop.

Acoustic or nylon guitar preferred. I also play guitar, but am not good. Please help me. gozira713@hotmail.co.jp Rock/pop singers. Am seeking a good English-speaking male and female rock/pop singer for a recording project. Please email me for more info. iloveslash007@gmail.com Seeking a drummer for a band somewhere between The Stone Roses and Nirvana to complete our line up.

Can send you a demo on request. nick_1985@hotmail.co.uk Seeking brass players. Skilled brass players needed for working brass ensemble - classical, jazz, movie themes, etc. kenzenjazz1nyo@gmail. com

13.5 MIND, BODY, SPIRIT TOKYO DIAMONDWAY BUDDHIST CENTER. Following the Vajrayana ( D i a m o n d w a y) p r a c t i c e s o f Buddhism, we focus on meditation i n a n e f fo r t to re a c h t h e ful l development of the mind. See for yourself how quickly Buddhism grows in the West . Thu, 8pm, Yoyogi-Hachiman stn. findlay65@ gmail.com www.diamondway.jp 080-4389-8818 Diamond Way Buddhism Tokyo.

Do you want to explore your own mind? Guided Buddhist meditation every Sun, 6pm, near Azabu-Juban.

International practitioners, beginners welcome, Japanese spoken. Please call 090-3598-3072 for more information. daginia@gmail.com http://www. diamondway.jp/

13.9 INTERNATIONAL

Tennis in central Tokyo! Active international group of tennis friends in central Tokyo welcomes new players.

We play on weekday evenings and weekends. Different levels, fun workouts with coach, great people!

Motivated players only, please. tennis. tokyo@yahoo.fr

Intercultural activities. JII (Japan Intercultural Institute) is a nonprofit, member-run organization that sponsors activities (seminars, cultural events, conferences) for those wanting to further develop intercultural competencies and meet other interculturalists. yuko. bolick@japanintercultural.org www. japanintercultural.org

Vovinam (Vietnamese martial art) in Yokohama. Seeking new friends to train with, or even just talk with about it. Contact me if you want to know more about this beautiful art. soyosan_1@hotmail.com

Nihongo 倶 楽 部いんたぁなしょなる .

Nihongo Club International is a volunteer group to help foreign people learn Japanese at the Tokyo Volunteer Action Center in Iidabashi. Every Thu, 7-9pm. nci_tokyo@yahoo.co.jp

14 PERSONALS 14.1 FRIENDS British or Singaporean person sought. I would like to learn about these two countries and want to visit them. I also want info about Hindu culture. Any straightforward perspectives on what happens in the world also welcome. annoapo@ yahoo.co.jp Dance friends. JM is seeking a dance buddy. My styles are hip hop and a little break dancing. I want to make some choreography together.

Let's work out in a club or studios somewhere in Tokyo. sds_hijiken@ hotmail.com Do you like Spanish or Italian bars?

Japanese male, 37, seeks new friends from around the world for a drink out.

Let's go to Spanish and Italian bars in Tokyo! superisajp@yahoo.co.jp Drinks on weekends/weekdays.

JM, 26. Let's go for drinks. M/F ok.

I have a few places in mind. I want to go with foreigners to speak English. Thank you/merci/gracias! benishigurenj@gmail.com English/German-speaking friends?

Hello, I'm a JM, 26. I want friends from foreign countries to go out with on weekends. I go to Shibuya/Shinjuku usually. Feel free to send me a message.

Thank you. akaiyuuwaku@gmail.com From Denmark or Germany? If so, drop me a line! Have been seeking Danes and Germans for friendship.

Tell me what you would like to do with an atypical JF. Let's have fun times together! Please be nonsmokers, 30s. codename107113@live.com Get together for the summer. Thai professional, 30s, living in Kichijoji. I want to meet people who live in the Tokyo area for friendship. Summer is here, let's make a group schedule for hanabi, hiking, beach and camping on the weekends! freemap49@ yahoo.com In Tokyo. JF, 34, seeks English speakers, non-native ok, who love learning Japanese. I want to have a good friendship with foreign people who can exchange language and stroll around Tokyo. Hopefully, nonsmoking, punctual people under 40. chiechie32@gmail.com Jogging partner wanted.

Caucasian male, 40s, seeking partner(s) to jog with me around the Palace on Sun. simonjfch@docomo. ne.jp Let's hang out. Japanese female seeking female friends to hang out.

I like parties, travel, going to bars, restaurants. Let's have good times! funblueflower2013@yahoo.co.jp Rock festivals. Are you going to Fuji Rock or Summer Sonic? JF, designer, early 30s, seeks friends around Yokohama and Shibuya. I like music, the outdoors, design and movies. Fluent English or Japanese speaker, late 20s-early 40s preferred. lalumiereak-7@yahoo.co.jp SoftBank friends. European man, 42, is seeking friends near Tama-shi who are SoftBank users. I like running and cycling, am free on weekends, sp eak Fre n ch an d Japan e s e . wasabi70@yahoo.fr Soul/R&B friends. I am a Japanese female, 40, a big fan of old R&B, soul, seeking single friends who are familiar with this genre to enjoy music bars, live music, exchange info, etc. Tokyo residents only. antlia11@ yahoo.com Tennis partner sought. Weekend hitting partner sought by JM, 40s.

My level is intermediate, but I haven't played for a while. udaishobakka@ yahoo.co.jp

SUBMISIVE SJM, 35, cute, is seriously seeking a woman who is into, or interested in, dominating men. I am so submissive, with seven years' experience, that I am happy to take whatever and serve you in any way. slaveintokyo@gmail.com Arrived in Tokyo yesterday, 30s, tall, slim, sexy smile, genki, nonsmoking, love traveling to new countries, active sports, movies. Why don't we meet first for a relaxing lunch, leading to a romantic future relationship together? citation0007@ hotmail.com Attractive single Japanese male seeks a nice Western or Japanese female for friendship and possibly more. Nonsmokers preferred. I am confident that I can create fun times for you. If you are ready, email me. cioinjapan@gmail.com Attractive, cute, gentle SJM seeking foreign female. Let's enjoy new experiences and feel happier together. Nonsmoker preferred.

Waiting for your response! Let's start with dialogue. lifegoes2012@mail. goo.ne.jp Caring and cute JM seeks attractive, hearty, nonsmoking Western female for friendship. I simply would like to share fun, interesting and great experiences with you. If you feel the same way, just drop me a line. jinzaixyz@yahoo.co.jp Carpe diem. Genuine, attractive, down-to-earth SJM, 40s, is seeking a serious relationship. Would love to meet a lady who is sincere, active and sophisticated. Let's have coffee to see if there's good chemistry between us. toshinoris1012@yahoo.co.jp Chinese girlfriend. Seeking Chinese female friends. Want to have some good times and exchange languages. chilljapan@gmail.com Could you be the one? Successful and funny American male desires a clever, funny, level-headed partner. Seeking something long-term. If you are serious, clever (and cute), please drop me a line. mostfunparty@yahoo.co.jp Divorced male seeks long-term.

Kanagawa male, 40, hoping to find the right girl. Long-term. No players, please. svenmanofmystery@me.com Englishman in Tokyo seeking to chat and exchange photos with like-minded females, I’m 34, tall, and attractive. topyo@gmx.com European gentleman, mid-40s, tall, educated, good-looking, S, seeks M lady, under 30, with unusual fantasies, ready to explore the extraordinary.

One mouse click may make your secret desires come true! aminimia@ yahoo.com French guy seeking fun. Lovely Frenchman, 30s, seeking Japanese girls, 20-40. Let's meet and have fun at restaurants and in bed! Let's have a good time, make good memories. leclubamelie@aol.com Friends first. JM seeks friendship or a steady relationship with English or Japanese-speaking people. Any nationality ok. I like outdoor activities, movies and music. Tokyo or Kanagawa. snowsurfsk8@yahoo.com Japanese male seeks female friend from Europe. Japanese male, 37, seeks female friend from Europe. Let's start from good friends. superisajp@yahoo. co.jp 09039098457 JM, 80kg, 180cm, near Kichijoji, likes Japanese and Mexican food, movies, travel, parks, music, seeks a European girlfriend. bigsunshine@mail.goo.ne.jp Kissing friends. SWM s e e k s friendship with a fun, attractive JF or Korean female for a long-term friendship, but also some kissing, etc. Easygoing, good-looking, kind and respectful. I hope you are, too. sakeorwine@gmail.com Love is a wonderful thing, but if you are not enough without it, you can

never be enough with it. Do you think that is true? Me: JM, 40s, professional, living and working in central Tokyo. udaishobakka@yahoo.co.jp Love Japan's happy hour nightlife?

Hello. Nice, very fit, professional American guy, 37, seeking a nice woman, 25-40, who loves to explore Tokyo's "happy hour" nightlife. Like drinking, eating, music, etc. Send message. steve.hall7588@gmail.com Mature and sophisticated Japanese, some have said charming, seeking an elegant, passionate, kind SWF. I dream about wild nights as well as sharing the simple pleasures of love. Is that you? imak1_2_3@ yahoo.co.jp Mature woman wanted. I'm a quiet black guy living and working in central Tokyo. I'm seriously seeking a Japanese lady, 50s or over, for a serious relationship. Serious only. strike4me@yahoo.com Seeking a Showa lady. UK male, 20-something, seeking a lady who can remember the Bubble. I'm sorry, I can't find these young Heisei girls interesting. nick_1985@hotmail.co.uk Seeking friend. Well-mannered and educated foreigner, 33, working in Tokyo, loves outings, drinks/ dinner, conversation, seeking a woman for friendship or maybe more if it works. Open for nationality/ age. Let's exchange email to start. hiteshagrawal20@gmail.com Seeking mature Japanese woman.

Australian, 26, seeking an older, mature woman in Tokyo. I am a fun, open-minded, respectful and athletic person. r_andom@hotmail.com Seeking nice girl for good friendship.

I am a foreigner working in Tokyo, well-educated, love to talk and meet new people. I can make you laugh.

Let's exchange a few mails to get to know each other, then see if we can meet. hiteshagrawal20@gmail.com Simple relationship. Averagelooking Caucasian professional, 40s, 185cm, 85kg, seeks simple relationship: drinks or dinner, chat about life, get intimate if it feels right. Just want to enjoy normal dating. Prefer intelligent, adventurous, reasonably fit, healthy. tokyojack22@gmail.com Sincere relationship. Frenchman, 30, working in Tokyo for many years, seeks serious relationship. I like movies, traveling, cooking. I'm a sincere nonsmoker, romantic, speak a little Japanese. 日本語も大丈夫です. histoiredamour2012@yahoo.co.jp SJM seeks SWF. If you're seeking fun times with a SJM in Tokyo, please contact me! I am tall, polite, funny, sincere and good-looking. Let's start from friends! faqmaxell@gmail.com SM in Chiba seeks JF to get together, watch movies, have drinks, dinner, go sightseeing, etc. I am European, 36. Reply to me as soon as possible. seansan@live.co.uk Virgin guy seeks help. Virgin guy, late 20s, struggling to overcome it before turning 30. Any generous women willing to help? I'll help you in other ways if I can. I am healthy in body and mind. uniman@gmail.com Want some chocolate in your vanilla? It's summertime, it's fun time; let's make it hot. A cool black dude seeks an attractive woman of any nationality for friendship and more. Life is short. Enjoy it while we are here. all4yababy@hotmail.com Western girlfriend sought by wealthy, generous, sweet and warmhearted, SJM, 38, in Tokyo. I am 173cm, well-built, handsome, not a playboy. I want to go to restaurants, shopping, Disneyland, beaches, drives, the outdoors, beauty salons with you! seven8877@hotmail.com Why not? Bored? Want more excitement? Wanna practice your English at the same time? I’m a tall, handsome, 29-year-old British guy seeking a sexy JF, mature works, for food, karaoke, dating, and sex. tall. brit.boy@gmail.com

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Horoscope

♥ Love ¥ Money ♣ Luck

ARIES

TAURUS

GEMINI

CANCER

You are the charging warrior god/ goddess, convinced you can make a difference. You’re right. A fire sign’s gift is inspiration. Currently you spend your energies burning through the veils of apathy and deception. You really can’t help yourself. After all, you signed up for this. It’s just getting fun. What would be the point of holding yourself back from this destiny, designed especially for you?

This week you segue to the next chapter of “the more you are taken apart, the better you fit together.” Ridding yourself of sticky matrix past scenarios is asking a lot. But the clarity and joy you create is well worth it. The Moon slides into your sector of conversation over the weekend. Connecting with Mars and Jupiter, news is enhanced and energized. Wait for the New Moon midweek to make your decisions.

The Moon leaves your sign, connecting to power brokers Mars and Jupiter in your income sector. This may seem like a walk in the park, but it reflects values and feelings. You’re never far from an emotional decision. Mercury joins in to ask for a choice made from logic. Hold on to your hat and wait for the New Moon later in the week, when you can start fresh, free of previous influences.

Is the truth starting to show everywhere you look? Can you just—not help yourself? Are you breaking chains of pain from previous generations all in one fell swoop? That’s a lot to add to your daily routine.

If anyone can do it, it’s you. But you must retreat as well. Allow only the most trusted, tender souls near your heart. You need time to heal, restoring the joy you were born to feel each and every day.

LEO

VIRGO

Aug 23, 24~Sep 22, 23 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Sep 23, 24~Oct 22, 23 ♥♥♥ ¥ ¥¥ ¥ ♣♣♣

LIBRA

SCORPIO

Happy Birthday to all Leos born this week! And to Leos who weren’t, you’re still in your birthday zone. Enjoy the higher energies meant just for you. Dreams are flooding in fast and furious. The sticky sadness of yesterday transforms to true happiness. You’re rewarded for following the path your heart insisted upon. Take a deep breath—you’re about to feel a love that stays with you through thick and thin.

Venus in your sign is a bonus. Venus is always a bonus. Suddenly you realize how important beauty and love can be. You treat yourself, and somehow the money comes right back to you. As if that isn’t enough, the Sun is in your sector of behind-the-scenes, meaning you can’t move forward in your plans just yet.

So you may as well spend your time enjoying the scenery—and on yourself.

Putting up a wall to keep others’ denial flooding your hopes is essential to success. When people refuse to see the bigger picture, you have to take on the part they won’t accept. Even with your scales of balance, it’s taxing. It won’t nourish soul or pocketbook. Let go of a need to help others see your point of view. Stay focused on your achievements and watch the results roll in. Have fun being your own authority.

Saturn may be direct, but it’s in a really early degree in your sign at the moment.

To clarify, it’s pure Scorpio. Have you heard it’s not true that a Scorpion will sting him or herself to death? If so, you can stop feeling those wounds and just do what fills your life with laughter, joy, warm hugs and silly grins. Otherwise, what are you doing? Your life force energy is valuable.

You’re a light on the planet. Think about it.

SAGITTARIUS

CAPRICORN

AQUARIUS

PISCES

Your natural optimism is tempered with practical results this week. Energy is precious and your discernment grows.

You’ll still be there for those who need you, but you’re careful with whom you share, and how. The New Moon beckons with a gleam of travel and a sparkle of allure in a project near and dear to your heart. You won’t have to talk anyone into “coming with.” They’ll be lining up to join you.

Opportunity is about to show up at your front door. Or in a voicemail. Or a dream. So much is coming, just when you let go. Which may help it happen. Jupiter directly opposes Pluto in your sign, which can make obstacles appear larger. They’re mirages, illusions of the lower third dimension which is losing its grip. Keep going. If your heart is in it, you’ll know you’re on the right path.

You’ve got Juno in your sign. You can back yourself up and let this be a week to believe. Your sector of partnership is coming into its own as the Sun lights up corners of curiosity. Truly, things are never going to be the same. They are going to be better. Go back and walk through the steps that got you to where you are now. If there is a door you didn’t open, you can give yourself a second chance to rebalance love.

With things in a jumble, an emotional jungle, you may find you decipher others’ thoughts and feelings. Deeply intuitive and compassionate, you can do this. But is it really your job? Mercury, Mars and Jupiter in your house of creative expression expand energies of joy and self-reflection. The Sun, your heartlight, transits your sector of work and service. This is a week to truly be yourself!

March 20, 21 - April 19, 20 ♥♥♥ ¥ ¥ ♣♣♣

July 23, 24~Aug 22, 23 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣

Nov 22, 23~Dec 21, 22 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣

Apr 20, 21~May 20, 21 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Dec 22, 23~Jan 19, 20 ♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Metropolis Mediabox

BREW MOON

ALL THEY REALLY WANT

OLD NEWS Regarding “Yuji Kuroiwa” (Q & A, Jul 19): I pay more for national healthcare here than for privatized care in the States—and I can’t get an appointment.

I have to get up at the crack of dawn

June 21, 22~July 22, 23 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Oct 23, 24~Nov 21, 22 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣

Jan 20, 21~Feb 18, 19 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣

Feb 19, 20~Mar 20, 21 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣

facebook.com/MetropolisMagazine

and beat a bunch of septuagenarians to the gate. And then no doctors speak English. They do in South Korea. This guy is a poster child for everything wrong in Japan.—jtodsttoe

Regarding “Cyndi Lauper” (Music, Jul 18): As another visiting rock star said, “Japan treats you well (when you are a visiting celeb)... So long as you leave when you are supposed to!”—jon

May 21, 22~June 20, 21 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣

twitter.com/MetropolisTokyo

of Metropolis to swing dancers and jazz musicians around me. Everyone said the article was wonderful and written very well. I think [writer] Emma Brooke and the editors did a great job. Thank you!—Hiro Yamada, Tokyo Swing Dance Society

JUST SAY NO

Regarding “Keith Villa” (Tastemaker, Jul 2): Blue Moon resembles a Belgian white about as much as Budweiser resembles a proper pilsner.—Jeffrey

Regarding “The Quality of Mercy” (The Last Word, Jun 21): Typical Metropolis article, no depth, asks more questions than it answers, misleading headline, factual inaccuracies. Great work.—Brian

SMOKY BACON

Great article. However, sorry writer [Richard P. Greenfield] but your headline is totally wrong! I have chronic pain—fibromyalgia. I was getting hydrocodone in the US, but here I can only get tramoset which is maybe 10% as potent. So I totally agree on your main point, but the headline is about OTC drugs which do not require a prescription by definition. Even where

Regarding “Burger Special” (Jun 7): Why not include info about their policy on smoking? It would be nice to eat somewhere in Tokyo without some idiot blowing smoke in my face.—Smeg

HOPPIN’ Regarding “It’s a Swing Thing” (Feature, Jul 5): I passed lots of copies

it is legal, hydrocodone requires a prescription, so its not being available OTC is irrelevant. The issue here is even a doc cannot prescribe it.— Yosemite_Steve When I broke my leg, before even knowing if/how broken it was, they gave me pills that made me feel totally groovy, it was awesome. But Japan needs to get with the times on this stuff, especially medical MJ. It’s probably a reflection of how old the voters and decision makers are, along with old customs that discourage kohai from speaking up.—G

TROOPERS Regarding “Gaijin Evolution” (The Last Word, May 23): I’d argue that a sizeable percentage of Metropolis readers work for the US military. This is seldom, if ever, recognized by the magazine.

We’re not all English teachers and tech industry workers.—Dave

Metropolis wants to hear from you. Send your comments to letters@metropolis.co.jp. Note that letters may be edited for length and clarity.

Metropolis Members Club Register for prizes & discounts www.metropolis.co.jp/club

THIS WEEK’S WINNER!

UPCOMING PRIZE!

James Holland won a Romantic Dinner for Two Courtesy of 148 @ Azabu Juban

One lucky MMC member will win a set of 7 Nail Enamels Courtesy of Revlon

#1010 • WWW.METROPOLIS.CO.JP • 37

The Last Word

Want to have The Last Word? Send your article to: editor@metropolis.co.jp

ZERO SUM GAMES

The 2020 Olympics are Tokyo’s to lose after problems in Istanbul and Madrid

By Alastair Himmer Europe and finish in Asia?”

A lovely narrative. It certainly beat those of staid old Tokyo and poor Madrid (“Lend us a few bob to mend our knackered economy, eh, amigo?”).

I visited Madrid and Istanbul for

trying to justify a whopping budget of $16 billion—almost four times that of Tokyo—and solve the city’s horrendous transport problems.

Refugees flooding over the border from civil war in neighboring Syria hardly helped Istanbul’s cause.

And that was before police began firing rubber bullets, tear gas and water cannons at people demonstrating the development of a city park.

Meanwhile, all remains tranquil in Tokyo. Many of the iconic structures built for the 1964 Olym-

ANNE-MARIE PAPPAS

O

nly in Tokyo could you rent a cat by the hour and stroke it Dr. Ev ilstyle while a robot cooks noodles for you. Japan has made staggering progress since its capital last hosted the Olympics in 1964 when the government unveiled the Bullet Train to mark its emergence as an economic power.

Stop me i f I’m b or i ng you .

Because you can bet your mortgage that well-worn line won’t wash with International Olympic Committee (IOC) members when they tick their boxes in Buenos Aires on September 7 to decide who hosts the 2020 Games. …Or at least it wouldn’t have had the recent Istanbul riots not put the Turkish bid in peril.

No longer the “exotic” destination of yesteryear, Tokyo’s economic might and super-duper plan looked set to be trumped by mad-for-it Istanbul. The blazer and cravat crew from the IOC were almost tasting the gins and tonic they’d have while surveying the breathtaking views over the Bosphorous. “What’s that you say? Your marathon would begin in

the IOC evaluation visits earlier this year and witnessed protesters in Madrid peacefully—if noisily—suggesting taxpayers’ money would be better spent elsewhere. Istanbul is indeed picturesque (and they do a lovely pastry)—but it clearly faces an enormous task with its infrastructure. The bid team already had issues

pics, such as the elliptical national g ymnasium, are still in use and as stunning in appearance now as they were almost half a century ago. Blade Runner-style neon lights, crowded trains, and crazy shops still retain the ability to amaze. More than anything else, it’s quite simply a safe pair of hands.

And what’s not to love about it?

Ever y thing works. It has turned convenience into an art form with aut om at e d w i z a rd r y. Vend i n g machines dispense everything from bananas to underwear. Japan boasts the highest number of machines per capita and even has contraptions at the top of Mt. Fuji. Just in case you lose your knickers on the summit.

Visitors may worry about earthquakes, with horrific images of the devastating tsunami seen all around the world. Tok yo’s Olympic venues would be built on giant shock absorbers to withstand major tremors. Many stereotypes about Tokyo are shattered long before travellers have figured out the sensor light switches and bath taps in their room.

Morning trains will gross out many as they rattle to sports venues, faces pressed against steamy windows, or worse.

But hav i ng t iptoed i nto t he race following the 2011 tsunami and nuclear crisis, Tok yo is now the book makers’ favorite to w in it—a victory that would be almost by default. Surely t he only way to screw it up is if a polit icia n were to say something dumb and inflammatory...

NO LONGER THE “EXOTIC” DESTINATION OF YESTERYEAR, TOKYO’S ECONOMIC MIGHT AND SUPERDUPER PLAN LOOKED SET TO BE TRUMPED BY MADFOR-IT ISTANBUL.” ■ Alastair Himmer is a former Reuters sports journalist and columnist now producing fashion and music events as head of Street Level Productions

The views expressed in "The Last Word" are those of the authors alone and do not necessarily reflect the position or opinions of Japan Partnership Co. Ltd. or its partners and sponsors

METROPOLIS is Japan's No.1 English magazine, founded in 1994 and published for Japan’s international community.

METROPOLIS is the only English-language magazine in Japan certified by ABC, Audit Bureau of Circulations.

Up to 30,000 copies per printed issue guaranteed

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Neil Butler EDITORIAL Jeff W. Richards (EDITOR-IN-CHIEF) David Labi (EDITOR) Lisa Wallin (EDITORIAL ASSISTANT) Anna Cock Gibson (PROOFREADER) Kyle Hedlund (CONTENT MANAGER) Taiichi Izawa (INTERN) CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Dan Grunebaum (ENTERTAINMENT) Don Morton (MOVIES) Fred Varcoe (SPORTS) DESIGN Kohji Shiiki (ART DIRECTOR) Adriane Morard (DESIGNER) PRODUCTION Helen Langford (PRODUCTION ASSISTANT) ADVERTISING Akane Ochi (DIRECTOR OF SALES) Karl Nakashima (SALES MANAGER) Miyuki Miyama, Dai Tanaka, Kanae Mochizuki, Jonathan Grogan, Hinson Leung (SALES EXECUTIVES) Kimi Idonuma, Tao Kawase, Grace Kwon, Ai Hosokawa, Chelsea Clark (INTERNS) ADMINISTRATION/ACCOUNTING Emi Sakuyama, Michiko Anezaki, Jeanette Komatsu (ADMINSTRATION/CLASSIFIEDS) IT Guilhem Malfre (IT AND WEB DEVELOPER) MEDIA Kamasami Kong (MANAGER)

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