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SEPTEMBER 29 TH 2016 DHAKA BANGLADESH
SUSTAINABLE SOURCING IN THE GARMENT SECTOR (SSGS) FINAL_Conference Brochure.indd 1
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SUSTAINABLE SOURCING IN THE GARMENT SECTOR OF BANGLADESH Bangladesh is an important and longstanding partner of the Netherlands. Its garment industry is by far the largest industrial sector in the country, accounting for over 80% of export revenue. The Netherlands works actively to advance the social and environmental standards of the garment sector in Bangladesh. To ensure that the positive impacts of both the Bangladeshi and global garment industry are maximized, we must work together to promote sustainable sourcing and production. The conference on Sustainable Sourcing in the Garment Sector (SSGS) is an initiative of the Minister for Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation of the Netherlands, Lilianne Ploumen, and is intended as a step to improve the collaboration process of all stakeholders in the garment industry. Buyers, producers and independent experts will present practical solutions and new models for collaboration and financing change. The objective of the SSGS conference is to enhance a common understanding of sustainable versus unsustainable sourcing, and to showcase new sourcing practices that will be beneficial for all stakeholders in the garment value chain.
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A long-term outlook and commitment will result in greater collaboration leading to mutually beneficial investments that promote sustainability, social conditions and compliance, while at the same time improving business performance. Leoni Cuelenaere, Ambassador
A N I N I T I AT I V E O F K I N G D O M O F T H E N E T H E R L A N D S I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H I A F A N D B G M E A . I M P L E M E N T I N G PA R T N E R : B A E A N D N A S H
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DRAFT PROGRAM CONFERENCE ON SUSTAINABLE SO 08:30 REGISTRATION AND COFFEE 09:30 INTRODUCTION AND WELCOME Siddiqur Rahman, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Associations (BGMEA).
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09:35 OPENING ADDRESS 09:35 - 09:50 Speech by H.E. Lilianne Ploumen, Hon’ble Minister for Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation of the Netherlands. 09:50 - 10:05 Speech by Chief Guest, H.E. Tofail Ahmed, Minister of Commerce, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh. 10:05 - 10:15 SHORT BREAK 10:1 5 - 1 1 :1 5 FIRST SESSION Global trends in the garment sector and opportunities for Bangladesh. CHAIR: Dhyana van der Pols, Nash International. KEYNOTE SPEAKERS: • Mr. Ton Wiedenhoff: Project director International Apparel Federation (IAF). • Mr. Faruque Hassan: Senior Vice President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Associations (BGMEA). PANEL DISCUSSION Opportunities & untapped potential for the garment sector in Bangladesh • Ms. Helena Helmersson: Global Head of Production H&M. • Mr. Mohan Seneviratne: Program Manager of Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT). • Mr. Syed Mohammed Tanvir: Managing Director of Pacific Jeans. • Mr. Riaz Hamidullah: High Commissioner of Bangladesh to Sri Lanka. 11:15 - 11:35 COFFEE BREAK 11:35 - 13:05 SECOND SESSION International framework for sustainable sourcing: setting the outline for future collaboration. CHAIR: Srinivas B. Reddy, ILO Country Director Bangladesh. KEYNOTE SPEAKERS: • Mr. Pierre Mayaudon: Ambassador & Head of European Union Delegation to Bangladesh. • Mr. Roel Nieuwenkamp, Chair of the OECD Working Party on Responsible Business Conduct. • Mr. Mark Anner: Associate Professor of Labor & Employment Relations at Penn State University. • Mr. Peter Rinnebach: Senior Partner Kurt Salmon Associates. • Miran Ali: Managing Director, Bitopi Group. DISCUSSION
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LE SOURCING IN THE GARMENT SECTOR (SSGS) 13:05 - 14:00 LUNCH 14:00 THIRD SESSION Success factors for sustainable production and sourcing CHAIR: Rubana Huq, Managing Director, Mohammadi Group. 14:00 - 15:30
Road map 1: Solutions and collaboration models • Ms. Helena Helmersson: Global Head of Production H&M. • Mr. Edward David Southall: Head of Global Sourcing at LC Waikiki. • Mr. Mostafiz Uddin: Owner and Managing Director at Denim Expert Ltd. • Mr. Mahmud Hasan Khan, Managing Director, Rising Group. • Ms. Erica van Doorn, President Fair Wear Foundation.
DISCUSSION 15:30 - 16:00 TEA BREAK 16:00 - 17:30 Road map 2: Financing change • Mr. Jef Wintermans: Director Economic and Technical Affairs at Modint. • Mr. Roel Messie: Director NL Business at FMO. • Mr. Mohammed Nasir, Vice President Finance at BGMEA. • Mr. Rob Wayss: Executive Director, Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. • Mr. Mahmoodun Nabi Chowdhury: Head of Corporate Banking at Brac Bank. DISCUSSION 17:30 - 17:45 SUMMARY: Debapriya Bhattacharya, Distuingished Fellow at Center for Policy Dialogue (CPD) 17:45 CLOSING REMARKS CHAIR: Mr. Md. Shahidul Haque, Foreign Secretary, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh. 17:45 - 17:50 Speech by Md. Shafiul Islam, First Vice President Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) 17:50 - 17:55 Closing remarks by H.E. Lilianne Ploumen, Hon’ble Minister for Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation of the Netherlands. 18:00 - 19:30 NETWORK EVENT
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KINGDOM OF THE NETHERLANDS ----------------------------------------------------------------
H.E. Lilianne Ploumen
Hon’ble Minister for Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation of the Netherlands In 1983, while still at university, Lilianne Ploumen became a community outreach worker in the Crooswijk area of Rotterdam. Two years later she joined the Institute of Psychological Market Research (IPM), working in the statistics department and as a research project leader. IPM focuses on research-based consultancy.
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In 1995 she founded Ploumen Projecten, an organisation specialising in market research and innovation for commercial and non-profit clients. In the same year she also began working as a fundraising coordinator for Mama Cash, an international fund supporting women’s initiatives, going on to become director of the organisation from 1996 to 2001. From 2001 to 2007 Ms Ploumen worked for the development organisation Cordaid, first as head of quality and strategy and later as director of international programmes. She was Chair of the Labour Party (PvdA) from October 2007 to January 2012. On 5 November 2012 Lilianne Ploumen was appointed Minister for Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation in the RutteAsscher government. Lilianne Ploumen previously held the position of Vice Chair of the Evert Vermeer Foundation, and was a member of the Labour Party’s South-North Committee (advising on international cooperation). She has also been a board member of feminist organisation Opzij and Women Inc. and member of the Stop Aids Now! supervisory board.
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GOVERNMENT OF THE PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF BANGLADESH ----------------------------------------------------------------
H.E. Tofail Ahmed, MP
Hon’ble Minister of Commerce Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh Tofail Ahmed, M.P was born in Bhola, an island district situated at southern-western part of Bangladesh, on 22nd October, 1943. Late Moulovi Azhar Ali is his father and Late Alhaj Fatema Khanam is his mother. He is one of the most influential political leaders in the history of Bangladesh and as an ideal follower of the “Father of the Nation” Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman. He was one of the organizers of Bangladesh Liberation War in 1971 and acted as one of the chiefs of Bangladesh Liberation Front (Mujib Bahini). Mr. Tofail Ahmed got Bachelor Degree in science from famous Broja Mohon (BM) College of Barishal in 1964. He did his Masters Degree in Soil Science from the University of Dhaka in 1966. During his academic career he maintained a persistent record of good academic merit. He was the Minister for Commerce and Industries from 23 June 1996 to 28 December, 1999. He Continued as the Minister for Industries up to 2001, Chairman, Parliamentary Standing Committee on Ministry of Industry from 2009-2013. He was also the Minister for Housing & Public Works and Industries from 21 November, 2013 to 12 January, 2014. Now he is working as the Minister for Commerce since 12 January, 2014.
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Md. Shahidul Haque Foreign Secretary, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh
Md. Shahidul Haque has been serving as Foreign Secretary of the Government of Bangladesh since 10 January 2013. Mr. Haque earlier worked in Bangladesh Missions in London, Bangkok and Geneva. He had also served as Director in various Wings of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Government of Bangladesh, including as the Director of the Foreign Secretary’s Office (1996-1998). He also served as Director General and Additional Foreign Secretary in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Currently Mr. Haque is the Chair-in-office of the Global Forum on Migration and Development (GFMD) and elected member of the Committee on the Rights of Migrant Workers (CMW) of the UN. From 2001 to 2012, Mr. Haque had worked for the International Organization for Migration (IOM) on lien from Government of Bangladesh, occupying several senior positions in field offices and the Headquarters in Geneva. Before returning to the Government of Bangladesh, he served as the Director of IOM dealing with IOMs’ external relations, donors liaison and international migration policy (2010-2012). He was also assigned as the Regional Representatives for the Middle-East (based in Cairo) and South Asia (based in Dhaka). In recognition of his outstanding and committed services to IOM, Mr. Haque received IOM Director General’s Award in 2005. Mr. Haque obtained an M A (International Relations) from the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy in USA (1988) and was awarded Honourable Mention for Robert B. Steward Prize for high academic achievement there. He also obtained First Class First, both in Masters and Honours, in Social Welfare from the University of Dhaka.
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He was also awarded the Dhaka University Chancellor’s Award, the Grants Commission Award and the Chancellor’s Gold Medal for his outstanding academic accomplishment. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Riaz Hamidullah
High Commissioner of Bangladesh to Sri Lanka, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh He did his graduation and post-graduation in Economics, respectively from India and Bangladesh. Mr. Hamidullah joined the Bangladesh Foreign Service in 1995 and served a sizable part of his career in multilateral economic diplomacy at the headquarters. He first served in Bangladesh Permanent Mission to UN in New York where he primarily dealt with UN’s administrative and budgetary matters, and economic issues; was a member of Bangladesh Team during Bangladesh membership to the UN Security Council (2000-01); served as an (elected) member at the UN Joint Staff Pension Fund (2000 - ‘02). Later he served as a midcareer political officer in Bangladesh Mission in New Delhi inter alia dealing with water resources related matters.
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Over the next six years, he worked on South Asian regional cooperation matters, including a three and half year stint at the SAARC Secretariat, Kathmandu as a Director where he helped shape and steer emergence of the SAARC Development Fund and development of several regional/subregional projects. Back to the headquarters, in 2012, he served as the Director-General in charge of Europe and EU affairs. During that time, he shepherded Bangladesh’s economic engagements with a number of European
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countries and Bangladesh’s entry in the ASEM process. From 2013 – 2016 he served as the Director General (Multilateral Economic Affairs) (2013–‘16) covering sustainable development, climate change, migration, development finance, multilateral trade, connectivity, water, blue economy. During this period, amongst many other achievements, he served as the lead interlocutor and negotiator on Bangladesh Sustainability Compact on RMG and Textile industry vis-à-vis the USA, EU and others; and all matters related to Responsible Business Conduct. In April 2016, the Government of Bangladesh appointed him as the High Commissioner of Bangladesh to Sri Lanka. Therefore, he joined the High Commission as the High Commissioner-designate on 12 August 2016.
SPEAKERS AND PANELISTS -----------------------------------------------------------------
Miran Ali
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Managing Director of Bitopi Group Miran Ali is an established RMG entrepreneur in Bangladesh. He is the Managing Director of the Bitopi Group, a leading business conglomerate consisting of several garment manufacturing units. Two of his factories are rated LEED Platinum -- Remi Holdings Ltd. and Tarasima Apparels Ltd. Of which, the former scoring 97 points, is the highest rated Green RMG factory in the world. Mr. Ali is a highly educated person who obtained his BA from the Johns Hopkins University, USA. He did his MBA at the University of Bristol, UK and the Ecole Nationale des Ponts et Chausses, France. Miran Ali is not only a successful entrepreneur but has also proved his mettle as a dynamic business leader. He is actively involved in various activities of the Bangla-
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desh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) with a view to making a contribution to the development of the RMG industry. Currently he is serving the BGMEA as a Director. He is also the Honorary Consul of Slovakia in Bangladesh. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Anner
Director, Center for Global Workers’ Rights, Penn State University Dr. Mark Anner is an Associate Professor of Labor and Employment Relations, and Director of the Center for Global Workers’ Rights at the Pennsylvania State University. The School offers a range of programs on Labor and Employment Relations, Human Resource Management, Workers’ Rights, and Leadership. He earned his Ph.D. at Cornell University where he studied political science and employment relations. And he holds a Master’s Degree from Stanford University. He also studied economics at the Central American University of El Salvador. Dr. Anner has been researching the global apparel industry for over twenty years. He is the author of 37 scholarly publications, including “Towards Joint Liability in Global Supply Chains: Addressing the Root Causes of Labor Violations in International Subcontracting Networks” (with Jennifer Bair and Jeremey Blasi), and “The Bulk of the Iceberg: A Critique of the Stern Center’s Report on Worker Safety in Bangladesh” (with Jennifer Bair). He lived in Latin America for eleven years and has conducted field research in El Salvador, Brazil, Honduras, Argentina, Vietnam, and Bangladesh.
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Mahmoodun Nabi Chowdhury Head of Corporate Banking
BRAC Bank is the fastest growing scheduled commercial bank in the country. In 15 years of its operation and with the strong sponsorship of BRAC and IFC, BRAC Bank has developed the largest any branch banking network in the country with a network of 175 branches, 430 SME Units, 350+ ATMs, 4,700 POS terminals across the country and 2,500+ remittance delivery points. Besides a strong network, BRAC Bank has also initiated industry-wide partnerships in electronic banking platforms for bringing more people under a single banking network. This institution has also brought capital market and mobile banking services closer to the mass people through it subsidiaries like BRAC EPL Investments Ltd, BRAC EPL Stock Brokerage Ltd and bKASH. Mahmoodun Nabi Chowdhury joined BRAC Bank as Head of Corporate Banking in 2010. His previous role was as Director for Local Corporates with Standard Chartered Bank, where he worked for 13 years. He has more than 20 years of experience in the financial sector in Bangladesh. He started his career as an Investment Analyst with Equity Valuation Research & Distribution in 1995 where he was involved with IPO issuance, capital advisory and consultancy services offering. Besides working in the corporate business stream he was responsible for rolling out Standard Chartered Bank’s Credit Rethink Project in 2007. The Project streamlined and automated the credit initiation & approval processes through an electronic platform. He spearheaded the fourfold growth of BRAC Bank corporate portfolio and built linkages with SME and Wholesale borrowers
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through distributor and supply chain financing, payment and collection services and a host of customized financial solutions. He has an MBA from the Institute of Business Administration, University of Dhaka. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Erica van Doorn Director, Fair Wear Foundation
Erica van Doorn has been working as director of Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) since 2008. She is committed to improving labour conditions in the garment- and textile industry worldwide. Over 120 European brands have chosen Fair Wear Foundation to independently verify how they support better labour conditions in the garment industry, and to publicly report about their strengths and weaknesses and how they have progressed over time. 9 FWF’s approach is established (and governed) through multi-stakeholder negotiation involving industry- and trade union representatives as well as representatives from civil society. Erica is responsible for engaging with FWF’s stakeholders and member companies to contribute to systemic change of the garment industry. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Faruque Hassan
Managing Director of Giant Group Mr. Faruque Hassan is the Managing Director of Giant Group. He has pioneered the development of Bangladesh textile and readymade garment (RMG) sector of Bangladesh. Currently he is the Senior Vice President of Bangladesh
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Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). Mr. Hassan is a former Senior Vice President of Dutch Bangla Chamber of Commerce (DBCCI) and Vice President of France-Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce & Industry (CCIFB). He is a Trustee Board Member of Bangladesh University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT) and also a Director in the Board of Centre of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry (CEBAI). Mr. Hassan aspires to make Bangladesh RMG industry a role model of green industrialization in the world. He is the Co-Chair of the Steering Committee of Partnership for Cleaner Production (PaCT) and also the Coordinator of the initiative named “TREES” (Toward Resource Efficiency and Environmental Sustainability) of BGMEA. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Helena Helmersson Global Head of Production, H&M 10
Ms. Helena Helmersson, is Global Head of Production at H&M, one of the world’s leading fashion companies with more than 4,100 stores in over 60 markets. Helena Helmersson joined H&M in 1997 as a business controller in the buying office and later became a section manager working with assortment planning and purchasing. She lived in Bangladesh for two years working as H&M’s HR Manager at the production office in Dhaka, and has also served as the Department manager for lingerie in the company’s Hong Kong production office. In 2010, she took over the position of the Head of Sustainability, H&M Head Office in Stockholm. Under her strategic leadership H&M took various divergent initiatives to promote sustainable practices such as the launch of garment collecting in all H&M stores; the implementation of the fair living wage roadmap; the commitment towards
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zero discharge of hazardous chemicals as well as the publication of the company’s supplier list. Her legacy in the retail sector has awarded her with the recognition of the Most Powerful Business Woman in Sweden by the nation´s leading business magazine and one of the world´s top Fashion Shapers by BoF 500 in the year 2014. In 2015, she took up the position of Head of Production in Hong Kong to lead the H&M Group´s sourcing and purchasing globally. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Mahmud Hassan Kahn Managing Director, Rising Group
Mahmud Hasan Khan (Babu) is a leading business personality in Bangladesh who entered business to pursue his dream of creating more employment and expediting the wheel of economy for poverty eradication and social development. Mr. Mahmud Hasan is Managing Director of the Rising Group which has created job opportunities for more than 7,000 people and contributes to the national economy with annual turnover of around US$120 million from exports. Mr. Mahmud Hasan is also well known as a business leader who for the last 18 years has been involved with different activities and initiatives of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). He was elected Director of the trade association for several terms. He was also elected Vice President (Finance) of BGMEA for the term of 2008-2009. Currently he has been serving BGMEA as Vice President and working for the development of the readymade garment (RMG) sector.
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Pierre Mayaudon
Head of Delegation, European Union Delegation Bangladesh Mr. Pierre Mayaudon, is the Head of Delegation of the European Union Delegation to Bangladesh. Mr. Mayaudon graduated from the Institute of Political Science of Paris where he studied Public Law, Economy and Foreign Affairs. He then entered the National School of Administration (ENA), which is the top institution in France for training of higher civil servants. At ENA, Pierre Mayaudon undertook diplomatic training including through a oneyear internship at the French Embassy in Korea. He also studied all matters related to government administration and finally entered the French Ministry of Defence, specializing in international affairs related to defence industry. Previously he served as the Deputy Head of Delegation at the European Union Delegation to Pakistan, the Deputy-Director General of the International Affairs directorate, Procurement Agency, at the Ministry of Defence in Paris, as well as the Ambassador of France to the Republic of Vanuatu. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Roel Messie
Director NL Business, FMO Roel was appointed as Director NL Business in 2015. In FMO’s NL Business department government sponsored funds are managed and business development is done for new financing solutions for Dutch companies. FMO has the ambition to strengthen its position in the Dutch market by offering innovative finance solutions to Dutch companies investing in Emerging Markets, as well undertaking
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export or project development to Emerging Markets. In 2001 Roel started as a Senior Investment Officer at the Private Equity department and after that Roel worked in a variety of management positions, these include Director Special Operations, Director Legal and Special Operations. Roel has a Master Degree in Law. FMO is the Dutch development bank. FMO has invested in the private sector in developing countries and emerging markets for more than 46 years. Our mission is to empower entrepreneurs to build a better world. We invest in sectors where we believe our contribution can have the highest long-term impact: financial institutions, energy, agribusiness, infrastructure, manufacturing and services. With an investment portfolio of EURÂ 9.2 billion spanning over 85 countries, FMO is one of the larger bilateral private sector development banks globally. In the RMG sector in Bangladesh we support the creation of jobs, largely for women. Knowing the numerous existing initiatives, we want to be additional. We started discussions about working hours, wages and productivity, to see how these are linked, looking for structural improvement opportunities with our clients. Implementation is complicated, but we can offer our clients the longer term horizon they need.
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Mohammed Nasir
Vice President, Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association Mohammed Nasir is known not only as a dynamic entrepreneur but also as a business leader. Currently he has been serving the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) as the Vice President (Finance) for
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the term of 2015-2016. Before becoming the Vice President (Finance), he served the trade association as the Director twice for the term of 2009-2010 & 20132014. He was also the Chairman of the Standing Committee on Earn, Learn and Skills Training; the Standing Committee on International Finance and World Bank Matching Grant; & the Standing Committee on Trade Fair. During his tenure in the office of BGMEA he has worked hard to promote and protect the interests of RMG industry of Bangladesh and had significant contribution to the development of the sector. At present he is also the Convener of BGMEA Skills for Employment Investment Program (SEIP) and a Trustee Board Member of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT). -----------------------------------------------------------------
Roel Nieuwenkamp Chair of the OECD Working Party on Responsible Business Conduct
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Mr. Roel Nieuwenkamp is chair of the intergovernmental committee focussed on Corporate Responsibility, based on the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises. He is leading the unique global complaints mechanism of the OECD Guidelines, the National Contact Point system. Besides, as Chair he leads the body of governments overseeing the corporate responsibility work of the OECD, including sectorial programmes for the financial, mining, garment, textiles, and agricultural sectors. Mr. Roel Nieuwenkamp studied Economics, Law and Philosophy at the Erasmus University Rotterdam. In his vibrant career, he has served as the interim manager at the Ministry
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of Education; Managing Director of the Entrepreneurship Department of the Ministry of Economic Affairs; Managing Director of the International Trade Policy & Economic Governance Department at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of The Netherlands; Professor of Public Administration at the University of Amsterdam. He has also served as the Chair of the OECD Working Party on International Investment. He chaired the Voluntary Principles for Security & Human Rights in the Extractives Industries. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Peter Rinnebach
Lead of Product Development & Sourcing Competency Center at Kurt Salmon Germany Dr. Peter Rinnebach is responsible for the Product Development and Sourcing Competency Center at Kurt Salmon Germany and for many years supports clients from the retail and apparel industry in Europe, the North America, and Asia. Kurt Salmon is a global management consultancy dedicated to building the market leaders of tomorrow. Kurt Salmon combines qualitative expertise and analytical rigor to help the world’s leading retail and consumer products companies improve performance. Its product development and sourcing programs help clients improve margins and increase brand growth and profitability by delivering product with improved innovation, speed, quality and value. The particular focus of Rinnebach’s work is the optimization of global product development and sourcing models including product and sourcing strategies, operational optimizations, and consequences for IT. Mr. Rinnebach in addition teaches at
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University Niederrhein in Germany. He is a regular author of articles on key industry developments and editor of the bi-annual Kurt Salmon Global Sourcing Reference study. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Md. Siddiqur Rahman
Chairman of Sterling Group; President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association Md. Siddiqur Rahman is the Chairman of Sterling Group which created employment for more than twenty thousand of people at its eight readymade garment (RMG) concerns in Bangladesh. He is a front-line business leader and has been playing a significant role in advancing the RMG industry of Bangladesh. When MFAquota phased out, many thought that it would hit the Bangladesh RMG sector hard. But Mr. Siddiqur Rahman along with his fellow entrepreneurs faced the challenge with strong determination and as a result, the industry witnessed phenomenal growth after post-MFA era. Currently Mr. Siddiqur Rahman is the President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). Before becoming the President, he served the trade body as the Vice President (Finance) and the Senior Vice President for the terms of 20092010 and 2011-2012 respectively. At present he is also serving Biman Bangladesh Airlines, the national flagship airlines, as its Director. He is a Trustee Board Member of BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT).
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Syed Mohammed Tanvir
Director, Pacific Jeans Syed Mohammed Tanvir is the Director of Pacific Jeans, the pioneer and leader in premium jeans manufacturing in Bangladesh. Pacific Jeans Limited is a world class premium jeans design and manufacturing house known for its state of the art production facility and unique research and development centre, based in Chittagong, Bangladesh. Mr. Tanvir started his journey in the apparel sector in 2004, after completing his postgraduation in International Marketing from University of Leeds, UK. He has enriched his learning curve by gaining insights of the market dynamics of the fast fashion industry, managing the supply chain proficiently and sound understanding of manufacturing knowhow in broader spectrum. He has experienced a robust learning curve in apparel manufacturing.
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Mr. Tanvir has made significant progress in achieving sustainable solution for producing eco-friendly jeans. He is steering the sustainable growth of the company amidst complex set of strains in apparel sector by gaining trust of a number of high street retailers. Mr. Tanvir has been awarded as ‘Commercially Important Person’ (CIP) by the government of Bangladesh for his contribution to the apparel sector. He is also one of the directors of BGMEA.
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Mohan Seneviratne
Program Manager, Bangladesh Partnership for Cleaner Textiles (PaCT)
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Mr. Mohan Seneviratne is the Program Manager of Bangladesh Partnership for Cleaner Textiles (PaCT) program jointly implemented by the International Finance Corporation (IFC - a member of the World Bank Group) and Solidaridad. Funded by the Embassy of the Kingdom of Netherlands and 13 international apparel brands, the program is aimed at achieving environmental sustainability in Bangladesh textile sector. Mr. Seneviratne joined IFC as Principal Industry Specialist for Water and Wastewater in 2011 where he led the technical due diligence of water and wastewater companies as well as technology appraisals. Mr. Seneviratne comes with over 36 years of experience in water and wastewater, energy efficiency, chemicals and biofuels. In his long professional life, he has worked in Australia, USA, Kazakhstan, Saudi Arabia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and UAE. He is the author of a book named ‘A Practical Approach to Water Conservation for Commercial and Industrial Facilities’. Mr. Seneviratne holds a MSc in Chemical Engineering from Moscow University of Oil and Gas, MBA from Deakin University Australia and Post Graduate Diploma in Finance and Investments from Securities Institute Australia.
Edward David Southall
Head of Global Sourcing at LC Waikiki, and Member of the Board Edward David Southall is the Head of Global Sourcing and Board Member at LC Waikiki, Turkey’s largest international apparel retailer, currently operating 673 stores in 31 countries spread over Europe, Asia, Africa and the Middle East. Mr. Southall started his 45 years long career journey in the apparel retail sector as a graduate trainee in C&A in 1971. By 1983 he became the buying Team Leader of Men’s Casual Wear, and at that point left to join the then Burton Group (now Arcadia), first with the womenswear chain Principles. After that he joined Dorothy Perkins as the Head of Planning. Later on he had worked for 17 with two Manchester importing companies, Giffords and Hollas Group. In 1998, Mr. Shouthall joined the then small - LC Waikiki - with big ideas, to set up an overseas buying hub; under his dynamic and strategic leadership the company has successfully set up most of the buying systems, standards and procedures. Throughout his professional life Mr. Southall has worked as a Buying Director, Sourcing Director, Buying and Sourcing Director, Chief Human Resources Officer, and a Commercial Director. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Mostafiz Uddin
Managing Director, Denim Expert Md. Mostafiz Uddin is the Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd- A cutting edge, integrated and specialized denim plant based in Chittagong, Bangladesh. Mr. Mostafiz’s passion and skill in producing high end denim has helped him curving his niche
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both in National and International Denim Sector. Recognizing the relentless effort of the workers of Denim Expart behind producing the world-class denim, Mr. Mostafiz ensures exceptional social and ethical working conditions for the employees. He also serves as the CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo (a non-profit international expo, takes place twice in a year since 2013 in Bangladesh); the Expo aims to celebrate the country’s achievement in shaping the denim sector as well as explore Bangladesh’s potential further in the Global Denim Industry. Md. Mostafiz Uddin, being a keen promoter of environmental sustainability in Bangladesh Readymade Garments Industry, has also initiated Bangladesh Green Apparel & Textile Expo, to be organized in 2017. Moreover, he has established a platform called Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) to support sustainable growth of Bangladesh’s apparel industry. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Rob Wayss
Executive Director, Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh Rob Wayss is the Executive Director of the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. The Accord is an independent, legally binding agreement between more than 210 global companies and 2 global unions (IndustriAll and UNI) and their national garment worker federation affiliates. The Accord is designed to make garment factories in Bangladesh safe workplaces. The Accord includes independent safety inspections, public reporting of the results of these inspections, and a labor-management occupational safety and health committee at every Accord supplier factory.
and industrial relations practitioner and in promoting fundamental workplace rights. He has performed this work in various capacities with the New York City Mayor’s Office of Labor Relations, the American Center for International Labor Solidarity (AFL-CIO), the US public employee unions (AFSCME), and the International Labour Organization (ILO). He has taught labor relations courses at Empire State College (SUNY). Mr. Wayss has a Masters degree in Labor and Industrial Relations from the University of Rhode Island. He has lived and worked in Bangladesh for 9 years. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Ton Wiedenhoff
Project director, Representative International Apparel Federation (IAF) Ton Wiedenhoff is a Consultant for garment brands companies and garment importers in Benelux – specialized in establishing sustainable business relationship between East Asian and European counterparts. Wiedenhoff comes with more than 25 years business and purchasing experience in China, Thailand, Bangladesh, Vietnam, India and Indonesia. He has worked as COO / Managing Partner and Purchase Director for a Dutch Brand House, International B.V., the Netherlands;
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Purchase Director, managing partner and founder partner Falcon International C.V, the Netherlands; Purchase Director K.Swiss International Fashion, the Netherlands. He has also worked in different capacities in Borsumij Wehry in Germany (Borneo Sumatra Trading Company), Global Fashion Group in the Netherlands and Borsumij Wehry in Germany.
Rob has 20 years of experience in the US, Europe, Asia, and Central America as a labor
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Jef Wintermans
Director for Economic and Technical Affairs at Modint Jef Wintermans (1960) is director for economic and technical affairs at Modint, the Dutch branch organization for the textiles, carpet and fashion trade and industry. Modint operates at national as well as international level. Modint now has 550 members and employs a staff of 28 people.
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As a former Naval officer and policy adviser in Dutch Parliament, Wintermans likes to draw clear lines to the future. A better future for all people on Planet Earth requires first of all the intention of everyone to do whatever he or she can to improve imperfections. Second, cooperation of all relevant stakeholders is needed since no single person, company, government or organization can by itself create lasting and sustainable change. The challenges for the textile and apparel industry are vast and complex but well known. It’s time for buyers – be it brands, traders or retailers -, manufacturers, governments, trade unions, branch as well as international organizations to team up and step up their joint efforts to create the change. Darwin was right: if the world around you changes and you don’t adapt, there is no future. Let’s adapt to the changing world together, to the better of the future of our industry!
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Rubana Huq
Managing Director of Mohammadi Group Rubana Huq is the Managing Director of Mohammadi Group. She has been in the position for the last nineteen years, actively empowering several thousands of women who manufacture and export a million pieces of ready-made garments every month. Mohammadi Group stepped into its 20 th year in 2016. It exports readymade garments including woven and knit products and employs 11000 workers in the industry. It also has 2 It firms: Technovista, Boarding Vista, a real estate company: MG Properties Limited, a digital distribution company: Digi Jadoo Limited and Desh Energies Limited with power plants supplying electricity to the national grid. Mrs. Huq heads MG Properties Limited, the Real Estate Division of the group. Besides her corporate identity, Rubana is a poet, having won the SAARC literary award in 2006 and is currently a PhD candidate at Jadavpur University, India. Rubana was chosen as one of the 100 women of the world by BBC for two consecutive years in 2013 and 2014. -----------------------------------------------------------------
Dhyana van der Pols Founder, Nash International
Mrs. Dhyana van der Pols is the founder of Nash International, a Europe based global garment solutions provider that uses its formidable global network to connect garment industry players from all over the
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globe with European fashion markets. Under her strategic leadership Nash International, over the last decade, has supported more than hundreds of fashion firms worldwide for sales and sourcing solutions. The organization, in addition to its many commercial assignments, has acquired lecturing and advisory roles with numerous global branch associations and government agencies. The lectures and presentations developed by Nash consistently inspire garment buyers and producers, highlighting topics ranging from unusual dying techniques and novel materials from around the world to ethical sourcing or out-ofbounds fashion themes. Mrs. van der Pols has extensive experience in international business development, strategic buying and outsourcing, risk assessment, corporate supply chain strategy, merchandising & planning, retail budgeting, trade development aid, coaching SME’s in emerging markets, import- and outsourcing intelligence, trade statistics, fashion trends translated to product development, e-learning fashion collection creation, and export promotion for SME’s.
development cooperation, with a particular focus on aid for trade. Mr Reddy is a strong proponent of inclusive economic growth and decent work for all. Taking up his Country Director post, a week after the Rana Plaza collapse, Mr Reddy has been closely involved in shaping and delivering ILO’s response to the disaster. This has seen ILO, in collaboration with Government of Bangladesh, employers and workers organisations and through the support of international partners play a major role in enhancing RMG factory safety, building the capacity of regulatory authorities, providing compensation and support to Rana Plaza survivors, promoting labour rights as well as launching a Better Work Bangladesh programme.
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Srinivas B. Reddy
Country Director of the International Labour Organization (ILO), Bangladesh Mr. Srinivas Reddy has been Country Director of ILO Bangladesh; ILO is the only tripartite UN agency that brings together governments, employers and workers representatives of 187 member States, to set labour standards, develop policies and devise programmes promoting decent work for all women and men. Mr. Reddy with a PhD in Industrial Relations and Personnel Management, has spent the 28 years of his career specialising in labour administration, skills development and
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BANGLADESH THE PRESENT AND THE FUTURE As the world’s second exporter of garments, Bangladesh occupies an important position in the global apparel production system. Its garment industry is by far the largest industrial sector in the country, accounting for over 80% of export revenue. The sector expanded rapidly over the last years and currently consists of some 5,000 factories, employing approximately 3.6 million workers, of which 80% women. Bangladesh has become one of the leading sourcing destinations for the EU and the US. Trade policy have provided support, especially after Bangladesh became part of the EU’s ‘Everything But Arms’ extension to its GSP program, allowing it to ship garments made from fabrics from anywhere in the world with zero percent duty. An additional advantage of the Bangladesh garment industry is its progressive entrepreneurship, which has created a largely domestically financed industry. Bangladesh’s current competitive position in the global apparel production system is primarily, but not solely, based on low production costs. In Bangladesh low production costs are the result of a combination of low wages and relatively high productivity. At the same time, the operating margin of production in Bangladesh remains comparatively low. Recent research has shown that the average FOB (free on board) price level from Bangladesh has increased as little as 1% in 2015 compared to 2012, despite the major CSR improvements and remediation activities that followed several industry accidents. While brands from the EU and North Amer-
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ica have also invested significant amounts to assist factory compliance in Bangladesh, the factories in Bangladesh finance most of the recent improvements themselves. The Government of Bangladesh has set an ambitious growth target for the RMG sector. In the year 2021, when Bangladesh celebrates its fiftieth anniversary, RMG exports should reach 50 billion USD, compared to approximately 26 billion USD in 2015. Bangladesh aims to achieve this target by branding the industry as highly compliant, through diversification of its products, by focusing on forward and backward supply chain integration, and by trading up to new branded market segments that demand more value addition. However, not all export growth will be achieved in higher value segments. The Bangladesh apparel industry will remain to have a strong competitive advantage in the low price segments.
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To stay ahead of the competition in retail markets that are subject to tremendous price pressure, the industry is increasingly investing in people and technology to boost productivity. Manufacturers are taking leaps forward and invest in state of the art
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factories, coupling increased productivity with improved labor conditions, safety and sustainability. Of course, higher compliance standards require investments, either through higher operational costs or upfront capital expenditure. Factory owners faced with high investment costs need reassurance that their buyers will continue to place sufficient orders at feasible price levels. The development of costs and prices of garments in Bangladesh needs to be reflected upon in view of sustainable sourcing and buying practices.
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CONTEXT AND FRAMEWORK OF SUSTAINABLE SOURCING Sustainability has been a buzzword in recent years. The meaning has developed from an initial worry about one’s carbon footprint, into an overarching set of requirements for green, clean and responsible production after major industry incidents such as Rana Plaza and Tazreen. Sustainability stands for social, economic and environmental compliance in the production process of garments around the world. It pertains to principles such as green and lean manufacturing, chemical management, material safety datasheets, zero discharge of hazardous
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chemicals, and water recycling and re-use. More recently however, elements of process management have also been incorporated into the concept of sustainability, including durability and performance, purchasing practices, living wage, codes of conduct, fair and feasible pricing. The aftermath of the Rana Plaza and Tazreen tragedies have illustrated how unsustainable purchasing practices also contribute to adverse labor and human rights impacts in the garment sector. In response, the OECD is currently developing a Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector, aiming to provide recommendations on how enterprises can apply due diligence in accordance with the OECD guidelines. The modern garment supply chains are increasingly complex, where various stages of production process are located across different countries. In some cases this has resulted in a reduction of transparency and control over the supply chain as well as negative impacts with regard to social, safety and environmental compliance. To ensure that the positive impacts of the garment industry are maximized, these risks must be managed throughout the supply chain (OECD).
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THE CONTEXT OF THE MARKET The dynamic retail and fashion markets force buyers to act fast, make short cycled collections, have tremendous speed to the market and tap into the consumer’s brain. As demands from consumers are increasing, buyers struggle to forecast their sales and the performance of their collections. Recent research and analysis of the retail market has shown that the initial mark-up (the difference between the price paid to the supplier and the price charged to the customer), has limited correlation with the realized margin at the end of the cycle: the moment the product ends in the client’s cupboard. This is due to high pressure on the retail markets forcing retailers to mark down and to engage in mid-season sales in order to stay ahead of the competition. This all affects their final profitability. On high streets in Europe and in the US this has resulted in the low cost spiral which is vividly displayed by the increasing frequency of sales signs and by the growing market share of low cost, basic chains and mid cost fast fashion chains. All have fundamentally changed the perception of price of garments. In this immensely competitive market, it
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seems unlikely that the costs of compliance can be passed on to end consumers through price increases. This is not because consumers would be unwilling to stomach a slight price increase, but because any first mover will be punished by the market. The important question for buyers and suppliers is how to break out of this vicious cycle and to break into upward spirals. THE WAY FORWARD: SUSTAINABLE SOURCING PRACTICES Solutions can be found in addressing the challenges together by transparent buying and purchasing practices that are agreed upon in the initial stage of a business relationship, rather than in individual translations of the price pressure exerted on buyers (by consumers) and manufacturers (by buyers). Industrial development support, such as fabric testing, advance procurement of trimmings, assistance with digital pattern making, and all activities related to pre-production assistance, will help increase the collaboration process between buyers and suppliers. In addition, timely forecasting and information sharing of (technical) production processes allows to effectively plan production capacity and the possibility to increase efficiency gains.
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PASSWORD THE SUPPLY CHAIN OF THE FUTURE IS SUSTAINABLE SOURCING
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The way forward is to engage in strategic partnerships where buyers are better able to align their collection plans at the start of the design cycle and inform both fabric suppliers and factories. A long-term outlook and commitment may result in greater collaboration leading to mutually beneficial investments that promote sustainability, social conditions and compliance, while at the same time improving business performance. LATEST DYNAMICS IN THE FASHION RETAIL MARKET: OPEN COSTING AND END- TO END COSTING The open costing method (or bottom up costing: all price components listed openly) is used for negotiating in fixing the production price between buyers and suppliers, exposing all related costs in the production process such as cut and make, accessories, and labour costs. When all relevant costs are exposed, the prices in each area of costing can become subject to (re)-negotiation. However, the benefit for the supplier – or the buyer and other players in the value chain – is usually not part of these negotiations.
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The end-to-end costing method is presented as an alternative to open costing for both manufacturers and suppliers in the garment value chain. This conference will outline the principles of those new insights and its influence on both product price and market performance. An end to end costing method extends the costing process from so-called FOB (ex-factory) price and also includes logistical costs in the supply chain, including air shipments, late ETD (expected time of departure of the goods), penalties, reductions, inventory risks, mark downs due to lack of sell through, quality defects, consumer complaints and other influencing factors. The principle of end-to-end costing would allow for a better distribution of the costs present in the production process of garments, increasing joint responsibility and advancing sustainable sourcing practices. In short, the conference insists on a high level of interaction with all stakeholders and audience. The objective of the conference is to enhance a mutual understanding of sustainable versus unsustainable sourcing, and to showcase new sourcing practices that will be beneficial for all stakeholders in the garment industry.
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Sourcing relationships in the years ahead will focus on total or end-to end costs.
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Password: The supply chain of the future is sustainable sourcing
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