kjug

30+ makes!

LIBERTY BUNNY F PATCHWORK POUFFE F BABY KIMONO TOP FEB 2018 ISS 107 £5.99

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The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

13STYLES

Quick & Easy Fit & flatter!

SEW IN SIZES

trust your free

8-20

pattern

DIY PATTERN

Pocket skirt

DAY TO NIGHT

Must-Sew Garments!

Chic culottes

Comfy jersey tunic l Make three capes l Pinafore dress l

Inside! INSPIRING WOMEN · LINGERIE-MAKING SOS · SUFFRAGETTE SEWING

SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 20/12/2017 11:03 Page 2

Hello... February As we’re throwing ourselves into a new year there’s so much to look forward to, with Valentine’s Day and spring on the horizon. It’s a great excuse to invest in some serious stitching time, whether that’s updating your wardrobe or making a gift for a loved one.

This month’s FREE New Look pattern is a complete outfit in one, featuring tops and culottes that are perfect for any occasion! You’ll also love our cosy tunic top (p22), cord skirt (p18), pinafore dress (p41) and smart bouclé jacket (p46), plus choice of three capes (p29). Kickstart your stitching for 2018 and make the most of your exclusive discounts at Croft Mill (p6) and Minerva Crafts (p7), PLUS £15 off any order over £30 at Create and Craft (p53).

Elsewhere this issue, stitch a vibrant floor cushion (p66), a pretty laundry bag (p62), and four gorgeous projects using Liberty’s new English Garden collection (p69), plus lots more! Our five-page toy-making guide (p57) has cute critters to whip up and will also teach you key techniques.

Sewing is a historic craft that has seen key events throughout the ages, including the Women’s Suffrage Movement. We discover how activists stitched banners and other memorabilia to highlight their campaign over on page 38, how Princess Diana dressed in spite of expectations (p90), and chat to two inspirational women... style icon and Simplicity pattern designer Mimi G (p28), and sewing tutor Iona Barker of Say It Ain’t Sew, an organisation offering free weekly sewing lessons all over Scotland (p45).

Don’t forget, there’s still time to enter our Dressmaker of the Year competition (p48), with a choice of six categories to enter. Whether you love vintage wear or everyday styles, prefer stitching for adults or children, or enjoy working with a Simplicity pattern or upcycling old garments, we want to see what you’re creating – you could win some fab stitchy prizes.

10

18

Happy sewing!

Jenny

Jenny Ward, Sew editor

53

Get 25% off ALL coating fabrics at Minerva Crafts, then make yourself a spring jacket! Find your discount code on page 7. minervacrafts.com

Create and Craft is offering a £15 discount on any order more than £30 – bargain!

Turn to p53 to get your online code to use at createandcraft.com

Sew your spring look!

Enter a photo of one of your handmade garments today at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear

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We hope you enjoy your inspirational women special!

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THREE STYLES OF TOP & CULOTTES

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sew February 2018

IN THIS ISSUE...

IN EVERY ISSUE TEA BREAK

KIDS

03 WELCOME Come say hello to the team!

52 HOODED TOWEL Stitch with Create and Craft!

06 WHO, WHAT, WEAR Keep up-to-date with the sewing world 15 YOU SEW SOCIAL We love what you’ve been making 26 LOVE YOUR ADJUSTOFORM Get creative with a fab dress form 74 THE BOOKSHELF Our fave sewing titles to inform and inspire 84 YOUR SEWING GUIDE Sew like a pro!

87 TOP OF THE CLASS Three great workshops to boost your skills 89 PREVIEW NEXT MONTH Our March issue’s out on 8th February

28 SIMPLY STUNNING Meet style icon and Simplicity designer Mimi G 38 VOTES FOR WOMEN Discover all about how the suffragettes used sewing to aid their cause 45 SEWCIAL NETWORK Iona Barker of Say It Ain’t Sew combats loneliness with free sewing classes 48 YOU! DRESSMAKER OF THE YEAR Presenting more great entries into our six different catogories! Have you put yours in yet?

68 CONFESSIONS OF A SEWING ADDICT Corinne Bradd shares her essential timesaving sewing tips 90 PRINCESS DIANA We look back at the style legacy she left

54 KIKO TOP & MITTENS Make a kimono wrap for a little one 57 NEW! YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO TOY-MAKING Learn techniques whilst making cute critters 71 MASCOT HATTIE THE HARE Sew our cuddly companion

GIFTS

62 LAUNDRY BAG Keep your delicates safe for the wash 70 STYLISH SCARF Create a gorgeous accessory from Liberty fabrics 70 PIN BOARD Get organised this year

70

71 ORIGAMI BAG Sew a pretty over-the-shoulder number

75 ONLINE VIDEO WOODLAND CUP COSIES Whip up these felt sleeves in no time

HOME 56 STUART HILLARD Be inspired by Pantone’s colour of the year, Ultra Violet!

63 NEW! DEBBIE SHORE Learn how to make the perfect drawstring channels 64 LOTUS GARDEN Take your style cue from traditional crockery 66 PATCHWORK POUFFE Make a vibrant floor cushion 67 THE FABRIC EDIT Mix bright colours and bold prints 76 PIPED CUSHIONS Spell out a homely message

62 76

54 71 60 04

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21/12/2017 11:21

DRESSMAKING

13

33

WIN!

pages of fashion, garments & more!

FREE THIS MONTH...

on page 78

Sew a tunic top and culottes in sizes 8-20

FREEBIES & OFFERS 06 20% DISCOUNT CROFT MILL Enjoy 20% off cotton craft packs 07 25% OFF MINERVA CRAFTS Claim 25% off coating fabrics 52 £15 OFF CREATE AND CRAFT Get £15 off when you spend over £30!

09 COVER STAR SPRING COMBO Sew a complete outfit with your FREE pattern

72 GIFT SUBSCRIBE TODAY Receive a FREE dressmaking kit worth £39.99

18 DIY PATTERN ELSA SKIRT Stitch a made-to-measure cord skirt 20 SEEING DOUBLE Get to grips with double knit fabrics

78 WIN GIVEAWAYS We have more than £1,250 worth of stitchy prizes to win!

83 FREE 2M OF FLAMINGO FABRIC Claim your FREE material today!

22 JOSIE TUNIC Use Ponte Roma to make a cosy dress – with pockets!

18

25 NEW! SEWING WITH TILLY Tilly Walnes reveals the benefits of sewing with a dress form 29 MAKE 3 CAPES KIMMY PONCHO Test-drive knitted fabrics with this project

22

30 MAKE 3 CAPES KITTY CAPE Stitch a lined cape for instant elegance 31 MAKE 3 CAPES MILLIE THROW Upcycle a blanket scarf in just three steps 32 INDIE PATTERN NEWS Our round-up of the latest independent brand releases 35 NEW! LAUREN GUTHRIE’S TOP TOOLS ... for sewing lingerie

10

36 SEWING SOS Expert advice on making your own undies 41 MASTERCLASS CLARA PINNY Create a one-size-fits-all pinafore dress 44 STITCH THE LOOK Beautiful crepe fabrics from Sewisfaction 46 GEMMA JACKET Stitch a smart bouclé blazer 50 SUSIE’S STITCH SCHOOL Embroider a shop-bought blouse with floral motifs

72

FREE NEXT MONTH

Subscribe

Sew a selection of pretty tops

TODAY!

free* dressmaking kit worth £39.99

05

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21/12/2017 11:59

wear

who what Get £2 off!

&

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

There isn’t long to go now until The Spring Knitting & Stitching Show, taking place at Olympia London from 1st to 4th March.

You can participate in a fantastic workshop in the Dressmaking Studio, browse inspiring exhibitions from leading textile artists, and shop until you drop at hundreds of pop-up stitchy shops.

Buy your tickets from theknitting andstitchingshow.com, using discount code SEWMAG18 for £2 off*! *£2 off advance adult tickets, £1 off advance concessions. Booking fee applies.

Cheap

craft cottons!

**Code valid 11/01/18 – 08/02/18. Subject to availability, other packs available.

Croft Mill has just released fabric packs in a whole host of colours and designs, perfect for everything from patchwork and quilting to toy-making and small gifts.

The 100% cotton fabrics come as ten 50cm squares for £20, and you can get 20% off** with the code SEWCOTTON20. Shop the range at croftmill.co.uk

20% off!

The book to read Honouring women who stand out from the crowd, from Gloria Steinem and Jackie Kennedy to Marilyn Monroe and Kylie Kloss, this is a coffee table bible for everyone.

SHE by Kate Spade New York is full of photography, quotes and anecdotes that will inspire you to live your own interesting life to the fullest. £30, abramsandchronicle.co.uk

Date night dress

If you’re celebrating Valentine’s or – as Team Sew do, Galentine’s – you’ll need a new gown for the occasion. Simplicity’s Amazing Fit 1011 V-neck dress has specific pattern pieces for slim to curvy body shapes in each size from 10 to 28, plus princess and waistline seams to help you make it fit like a glove.

Bare your shoulders or add short or bell sleeves, and choose between a straight or dipped hem – the choice is yours! £8.95, simplicitynewlook.com

Sew Saturday RETURNS! We’re so excited to be officially announcing Sew Saturday 2018 will be happening nationwide on *drumroll* 6th October! We had an amazing day last year and this time it’s going to be even bigger and better. Consider this plenty of advance notice so you can pop the date in your diary – watch this space for more announcements!

06

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6th October 2018 WWW.SEWMAG.CO.UK

if you buy one pattern...

We’re all about the shift dress this month. It’s really straightforward to sew – which means you can focus on a different technical aspect, like pattern matching or adding decorative appliqué. This knee-length pattern by New Look has a wide, round neckline, and options for a bias-cut stand collar and pleated or straight sleeves in different lengths. £6.95, simplicitynewlook.com

want it, need it, BUY IT! Choose a machine that allows your creativity to roam, like Brother’s computerised FS130QC model. It does everything you’d expect a good sewing companion to, plus it has 130 decorative stitches that give your projects an extra special finish. £598, createandcraft.com

Vera Mont dress, bettybarclay.com

25% off!

GET YOUR COAT... ...ing fabric, that is, with 25% off^ at Minerva Crafts. There are gorgeous tweeds, luxurious faux furs and warming wools to name but a few, and this opportunity is not to be missed – seriously! Use the code SEWCOATING to claim your discount at minervacrafts.com

All that shimmers...

Did someone say reversible sparkly fabric? We’re listening. Parisian fabric manufacturer Atelier Brunette has released Shimmer Chic, a stunning black and silver jacquard that’s perfect for the quirkier dressmaking and home projects in your stitchy life. Check it out at atelierbrunette.com

^Code valid from 11/01/18 to 28/02/18 on coating fabrics at tinyurl.com/ minervacoating. Discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer

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SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 20/12/2017 11:03 Page 8

sew DRESSMAKING

dress

the

making

sew cover star

collection

Spring will soon be here, so take the chance to revamp your wardrobe – starting with your FREE New Look pattern to make a stylish top and culottes combo. After, try other must-sew garments such as our cord skirt, cosy pullover, smart blazer, pinafore dress, and three capes!

Clara pinny, p41

Floral blouse, p50

Kitty cape, p29

Elsa wrap, p18

Turn the page and get started today!

your free pattern

help

here to

Josie tunic, p22

TILLY WALNES

MIMI GOODWIN

LAUREN GUTHRIE

JENNIFER LAUREN

Our columnist discusses how dress forms can help your garment making.

Meet the style creative behind Simplicity's range of Mimi G patterns.

Lauren reveals the essential tools you'll need to sew your own lingerie.

The founder of Jennifer Lauren Handmade on stitching perfect knickers.

P25

P28

P35

P36

09

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\

of your

Discover the

pattern

potential

your free pattern

FREE

This month’s FREE NEW LOOK PATTERN, worth £6.95, offers a complete outfit The culottes are a great INTRO TO TROUSER MAKING and allow you to practise inserting an invisible zip, whilst your blouse or tunic comes complete with TWO NECKLINE OPTIONS and the opportunity to add side vents. Get to know WOVEN FABRICS and create VERSATILE PIECES that can be worn for any occasion – or just because!

We colour-matched our fabrics with Gütermann natural cotton thread in shades 847, 2045 and 6617, £1.85 each, minervacrafts.com

ZIP it up

Invisible zips give a much cleaner and professional finish to your trousers – if you don’t have the specialist foot for your sewing machine, it’s a really worthwhile investment.

You can also stabilise the centre-back seam allowance to make it even easier.

FACE facts THREAD up!

Your free pattern can be made in a variety of woven fabrics, and it’s a good idea to match the thread according to this for the best results. For the majority of fabrics, you’ll be safe with an all-purpose thread, but cotton threads are ideal for the variety of cotton fabrics we used.

Adding facing is one of the neatest and easiest ways to finish a garment. Use the same fabric as your main pieces to keep it subtle. Turn overleaf for tips on this crucial step!

8” invisible zippers, £1.59 each, minervacrafts.com

pick your NEEDLE Don’t underestimate the importance of using the right size and needle type for your fabric. As a general rule, size 70 is for very light fabrics like silk, 80 is good for light to medium weight, 90 for medium to heavyweight, and 100 for heavy fabrics like denim.

FINISHING touches

opt for COTTON

Klasse universal needles, £1.99 for five, minerva crafts.com

There is a wide variety of cottons out there, and the type you use will affect the finished look of your garments. Tana Lawn and polycotton are lightweight with good drape, making it ideal for a floaty tunic, whilst cotton-linen blends will give your garments more structure.

Your choice of fastener at the waistband can impact the comfort and overall finish of your culottes. Consider the pros and cons – bulky fasteners may dig into your skin uncomfortably, and you won’t get as clean a finish with buttons that are Prym trouser hook visible on the outside. We and bar fastener, used a 12mm trouser hook £1.89 for two pairs, and bar fastener instead. minervacrafts.com

Cloud 9 Checks Please in coral and salmon, for stockists visit hantex. co.uk/cloud9

Fine cotton chambray in blue, £7.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Liberty Nicholas James Tana Lawn in pink, £22 per metre, alicecaroline.co.uk 10

sewmag.co.uk

e s, h, m

5 pattern

your free pattern

style selector

pieces including pockets!

Use it to make a full coordinating outfit for a special occasion or stitch up stand-alone pieces that work with your existing wardrobe – the choice is yours!

style a LAID BACK

The side vents and relaxed V-neck with ties on this hip-length tunic make for really relaxed weekend wear – just pair it with comfy jeans.

Necklace, £15, Monsoon, jeans, £29.99, TK Maxx

E

sew DRESSMAKING

A

style b SUMMER FUN

This easy-sew top is boxy but not too loose, so you can wear it with everything from skinnies to voluminous skirts!

B

why we made STYLE C

style c

CULOTTE CHIC

We couldn’t resist these chic culottes and were pleasantly surprised by how easy they are to make up. They’re versatile too – ours work equally well for the office as they would for a casual weekend.

These look fantastic with everything – from plain tees to flouncy blouses – taking your outfits to a new level of coolness.

C

11

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the perfect

size

the right your free pattern

fit

No fastenings needed

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the readyto-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

so long The key to getting the length of culottes right is to think of them as you would a midi skirt. Pick one from your wardrobe that flatters your legs and adjust the trouser length if necessary. The flare of this pair is subtle enough that they would work anywhere between below-the-knee and ankle length.

make it yours

EXTRA TIPS FOR FACING

Both tops are made using the same front/back pieces so it’s practically effortless to mix and match the button-back or V-front necklines with the length options and side vents to suit your taste.

cold shoulders If sleeveless tops aren’t for you but you still like the cut-in line, adapt the sleeves from another pattern to fit. Simply lay it beside the armhole and trace over with the extra required – and don’t forget the seam allowance!

TURN TO P84 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE

12

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3 Always interface the facing pieces – this stiffens them and helps keep them on the inside.

3 Use a short stitch length to create a strong join that holds well along corners.

3 Pinking shears are great for trimming the seam allowances down so they lay smoothly.

3 If the facing won’t stay inside your garment, understitch it to the seam allowances.

your way

make it

sew DRESSMAKING

why not

overlock All overlocker owners seem to swear by their machine. Could you be tempted this year?

SAVE

SUPA LOCK 486 Create quality seams, hems and finishing edges with the aid of this overlocker. The differential feed can be independently adjusted to help manage difficult fabrics, whilst the feed dogs cope with all manner of fabrics effortlessly – it can even overlock fine fabrics to give a pucker-free finish. £279, gursewingmachines.com

SPEND

Jeans, £25, Marks & Spencer, necklace, £6.99, H&M

MO-1000 Perfect for seasoned users, the system on this model threads the lower and upper loopers automatically with a strong whoosh of air that is sent from an electric motor. The built-in seam guide takes the guesswork out of seam allowances, ensuring fantastic and uniform results each time! £879, jukiuk.com

Next month’s FREE pattern

TOP SELECTION

Next month’s FREE pattern is four tops with a flattering asymmetric hemline and neckline and sleeve variations in sizes 8-18 13

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4 fab styles

SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 20/12/2017 11:03 Page 14

sew YOU!

We’re loving your makes this month – and did you catch our silly question on Facebook?

Reindeer print Christmas party dress?

You bet I did!

Lesley King

This was my first go at making a wreath – I got the handy pack from Hollies Haberdashery.

Liz Taylor

Anne Waller

My machine would say “You have me in stitches every time we meet!”

I photographed my Tulip dress by Sew Different in the snow! The gorgeous material – a heavily textured cotton, overprinted with silver ink – is actually a furnishing fabric from Fabrics Galore.

Laura Casey

The fabric I used for these terrier cushions came from a charity shop!

I finished this dress in time for my daughter’s birthday, she’s thrilled with it!

Julie M Johnson

Rhian Holmes

p71

Say Hell o to Hattie !

Toni Hayes

“I’ve been your faithful friend for 45 years.”

– my sewing machine

chosen by you

Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our monthly mascot. Say Hello to Hattie Hare!

“I picked the name Hattie Hare because I think it suits the toy, who looks quite prim and proper!”

Linda Mays Browning, Sew reader Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq 15

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Linda has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira. co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! I made a jumper on Friday night and wore it to work on the Monday, where I made a new friend called Gaston du Plonk!

Jo Woods

Here’s a little memory cushion I made from babygros, a dress, and a top – it’s to go with a memory quilt I made.

Delphine Brooks

I’m really pleased with the results of this jersey tunic dress – the front and back inserts were fiddly but I got there in the end, and even had enough leftover fabric to make a T-shirt!

Jill Swire

Helen Turner

I love a free pattern!

Here I’ve made Cottage Mama’s party dress in a matryoshka doll print fabric.

It took me nearly a full year to get to the assembling stage of this quilt!

My first-ever coat was hard work – but it paid off!

Lucy Picksley

June Hicks

on the sew blog...

Perfect for using up scraps of leather-type materials, this project is for all you bullet journallers out there.

Here’s a little set of cosmetic and toiletry bags that I made.

Tina Ludlow

We’ve added a brand new DMOTY category and chances are that every Sew reader has something fab to enter!

From our very own quilting queen Corinne Bradd, this fast and easy method will change the way you patchwork forever.

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 16

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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

e r a h s & h c t i t s ! hy triumphs with Sew Share your latest stitc

Production line I got a bit carried away making tissue covers as presents for my colleagues at Christmas!

Jules Robinson

HHHH HH

Pretty pet Do you like my Scotty dog door stop?

Gail Mcknight Anderson

sew

H

STAR letter

H

animal crossing This little pinafore dress is cute, but a bit funny too!

Claire Dolby

lightful Doubly de Christmas doll from

rry ns of the Holly Be& io s! They rs ve o tw y m e ar Here e Tilly Jilly Jingdlethem. in m d lle ca e I’v – 3 ve Sew issue 10 n to make and my husband lo were great fu cobs Sue Rayner Ja

Samantha Currie

I can hear my machine saying “Oil me, change the needle and de-fluff me!”

It’s behind you!

I can finally relax after making 157 pieces of costume for productions across the country last pantomime season – it was a very crazy year!

Ally Sykes son

Stage ready

Claire Holden Simply sweet The decorative stitches on my machine came in handy for these felt ornaments at Christmas.

Catarina Magalhaes

My machine is so old, it would tell me to retire it!

I had two day’s notice to make an entire nativity outfit, so I cobbled this together!

Fiona Cooper

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 17

sewmag.co.uk

FRONT/

Make your own pattern for the

ELSA SKIRT Meas B

Get started

10 cm

Cutting diagram

Dart

Sizes

Place on fold of fabric (back only)

• Printed corduroy* • Plain corduroy, 50cm • Lining fabric, 25cm x 60cm *Note: amount required will depend on size and width of fabric

FRONT/BACK SKIRT

Custom-sized

Cutting Guide

Note: start by taking your waist and hip measurements. The largest of these will be meas A Back panel: cut one (divide meas A by four, add 4cm = width) x (desired length* plus 4cm = length) on the fold from printed corduroy Front panel: cut two (divide meas A by four, add 12cm = width) x (desired length* plus 4cm = length) from printed corduroy Pocket: cut two 20cm x 27cm rectangles each from plain corduroy and lining fabric Waistband: cut one 6cm x (waist meas x 1.5, plus 1.3m) strip from plain corduroy *Natural waist to hem length 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide. Lay the front pieces right sides together, then measure 20cm down along one edge and mark for the hip point. From the same corner, measure and mark meas B

You can stitch the waistband from shorter strips – just make sure to cut them all in the same direction

14 cm

20 cm

stitch a WRAP SKIRT

Meas Bx2 (back only)

Wrapover garments get a bit of a bad *ahem* rap for being at high risk of wardrobe mishaps, but the wide overlap and weightier fabric of Julia Claridge’s made-to-measure version makes it a much safer choice all round.

Corduroy frays, so you’ll need to neaten all raw edges that will be exposed in the finished garment. The simple measurements and markings can be made directly onto fabric or drafted onto pattern paper if you prefer.

(see Do The Maths panel) along the top, then draw a curved line from here to the hip point. Cut along this line to shape the waist.

2

Fold the back panel in half lengthways, then repeat Step 1 on the non-folded edges. On the back panel only, measure and mark 10cm along the top from the first meas B, then twice meas B for the dart.

Measure 14cm down from the centre of this last section, then draw diagonal lines to the edges of it. Check you are happy with the dart position, adjust if necessary, then stitch the darts.

3

Pair up a lining and a corduroy pocket, right sides together, then measure 8cm down one long

edge and mark. Draw a straight line to the opposite top corner and cut across. Stitch all around, leaving a 4cm gap on the bottom edge. Trim the bulk from the seam allowance, then turn right sides out through the gap and press. Repeat to make the second pocket so that it mirrors the first.

creating mitred corners on the inside (see Core Skill panel). Stitch 2.5cm in along all three edges, turning at each corner with the needle down. Fold and press 1cm over to the wrong side along each long edge of the waistband.

6

Fold the waistband strip in half lengthways, wrong sides Match the front and back together, then press. Unfold, panels at the side seams, then pin along the top edge of the right sides together, and skirt, matching the raw edges and pin. Sew the side seams, leaving a leaving 65cm plus half your waist 5cm gap at the top of the left-hand measurement overhanging on the side seam. Lay the skirt right sides side that has a gap in the side seam. up, pin each pocket in place 12cm Sew along the crease. Flip the from the upper edge and centrally waistband over to the inside of the over the side seams, then topstitch. skirt then topstitch across the entire Fold in and press 1cm, then length along the bottom of the a further 3cm, along the waistband, tucking in the raw edges bottom and two front edges, at each end to neaten.

4

5

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sew DRESSMAKING

do the MATHS!

Core skill:

The following is based on a size 10 with a desired length of 64cm. If the waist is 69cm and hips are 94cm, meas A is 94.

MITRED CORNERS

Back panel: (94 ÷ 4 = 23.5, + 4* x 27.5) x (64 + 4** = 68) 27.5cm x 68cm

Press the side and base hems as directed, then open them out and refold the corner so that the fold line is where the side and base fold lines meet.

Refold the side and base hems, then topstitch from the right side.

Front panel: (94 ÷ 4 = 23.5, + 12*** x 35.5) x (64 + 4** = 68) 35.5cm x 68cm * Extra 4cm is for ease (2.5 x 4 = 10cm total) and seam allowance (1.5cm) ** Extra 4cm length is for hem (1cm + 3cm) *** Extra 12cm is for ease (2.5 x 4 = 10cm total), front facing (1cm + 3cm), overlap (4cm) and seam allowance (1.5cm) To calculate meas B, work out the difference between your waist and hip measurements, then divide this by 12 Meas B: (94 - 69 = 25) ÷ 12 = 2cm

sew

SHOPPER ************************

BRIGHT AND BOLD We used Floret in dark navy (print) and ocean (plain) from Jessica Jones’ Spring Quartet range for Cloud 9. For stockist information, visit hantex.co.uk/cloud9 ************************ thank you for shopping!

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seeing

1 2 3 4

Large leaf print scuba, £9.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Teal plaid Ponte Roma, £10 per metre, backstitch.co.uk

Floral scuba in navy, £6.50 per metre, abakhan.co.uk

5 6 7

Emerald Ponte Roma, £12 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Tahiti scuba, £7 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

Navy cloque jersey, £12.50 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

4

1

Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

5 6

Broken chevron feathers Ponte Roma, £9.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

FABRIC BUYS!

3

DOUBLE If you’re new to sewing with knit fabrics, double knit varieties are a great starting point. They’re firmer and more stable than other knits so are generally easier to cut and sew, plus they don’t wrinkle as much or roll up. Look for Ponte Roma, scuba and interlock jerseys, which are all available in a choice of colours and prints.

Lightweight double knits give drape to tops and dresses, whilst medium-weight versions are good for more structured garments and heavy-weight ones are ideal trousers and jackets.

Bargain

2

7

20

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SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 20/12/2017 11:03 Page 21

Turn your hand to knits and stitch our

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew a COSY DRESS Get started

• Ponte Roma, 1.4m pink and 30cm grey (1.5m wide) • Stay tape

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

MAIN FABRIC Front bodice: cut one on the fold Back bodice: cut one on the fold Front skirt: cut one on the fold Back skirt: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair CONTRAST FABRIC Collar facing: cut two on the fold Pocket: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer any markings.

Match the front and back bodice pieces right sides together, then pin and sew the shoulder and neck seams. Clip the curved seam allowance.

2

Join the collar facing pieces right sides together at the short edges, then turn right sides out. Match the bodice neck

JOSIE TUNIC The perfect go-to for Sunday walks, this cosy tunic by Amanda Walker features contrast pockets and neck lining plus a dropped waistline that is slightly curved for interest. Ponte Roma is an easy knit fabric to work with that skims over your body and doesn’t crease. Stay tape is used here to stabilise the base and cuffs, but if you don’t have any you can easily substitute hemming tape or interfacing.

and collar facing pieces, right sides together, then stitch around the top of the neckline. Turn the collar facing inside the garment, press, then hand stitch the bottom of the facing to the main bodice at the side seams.

3

Pin the pockets in place at the notches on the base of the front bodice, right sides together, matching the curved raw edges. Sew across, beginning and ending 1.5cm from each edge.

Repeat the process with the opposite edge of the pockets and the front skirt piece.

4

Lay the front bodice and front skirt pieces right sides together, then pin and stitch between and on either side of the pockets. Sew down each side of the pocket pieces. Pin and sew the back bodice and back skirt pieces together.

5

Place a sleeve on top of the bodice, matching the notch in the head to the shoulder seam. Pin right sides together, stitch around the armhole, then turn right sides out. Repeat for the second sleeve. Match and pin the underarm and side seams of the bodice and skirt, right sides together, aligning the waistline seams accurately.

6

Sew each underarm and side seam in one continuous line, then clip the curved seam allowances. Fold a 4cm hem at the base of the skirt, slip stay tape inside, then press. Sew in place close to the raw edge. Repeat for each sleeve cuff, folding over 3cm.

Remember to use a size 80 ballpoint needle and work slowly when sewing Ponte Roma 22

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sew DRESSMAKING

sew

SHOPPER ************************

TWICE THE FUN We used a heavy blended Ponte Roma in rose pink and marl grey to keep the weight even throughout our tunic. £14.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

Dream

MACHINE PRO RESULTS Brother’s new CV3550 coverstitch machine will help you get that perfect finish. Enjoy features such as the 3mm and 6mm single and double cover stitch, 6mm double tr-cover stitch, and so much more! £599, brothersewing.co.uk 23

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SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 21/12/2017 16:14 Page 24

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Sewing with Tilly

✂O

THREE WAYS TO USE A DRESS FORM IN YOUR SEWING

✂

ne of the questions I’m asked most is whether to buy a dress form, and which one I’d recommend.

Otherwise known as a dressmaker’s dummy or mannequin, it’s one of those tools that you can certainly live without when you’re new to dressmaking but will definitely be put to good use if you decide to get one.

The soft cover on my dress form looks nice and is easy to pin as well!

1

PUT CLOTHES ON A 3D SHAPE

When you sew your own clothes, it’s important to check how your garment is looking at different stages, rather than waiting to try it on at the end – when it can be too late! Putting your make on a dress form is useful for getting an idea of how it looks on a 3D body shape... this is handy as you don’t have to keep taking your clothes off or if you’re sewing for someone else who isn’t there.

It also allows you to see your piece from different angles, without having to twist the garment in front of the mirror. It’s much more inspiring to see clothes that you’ve spent ages making displayed on a 3D form, rather than on a hanger, and gives you a better sense of how they will look on a person.

I’ve had my Lady Valet Adjustoform for over six years

2

DESIGN YOUR OWN PATTERNS

If you’re a budding pattern cutter, a dress form is essential for working out where you want style lines to go. When I studied pattern cutting at the London College of Fashion, we spent many hours pinning tape to mannequins to plot the seams, darts, necklines and collars on our designs. This was one of my favourite parts of the process as it helps bring your ideas to life. Another system of pattern cutting involves draping fabric directly onto a mannequin, and then creating the paper pattern based on how the fabric hangs. This is a more free-flowing alternative to pattern drafting directly onto paper, and is sometimes used in couture – it’s a bit like sculpture but with fabric!

Adjusting a hem is much easier on a mannequin

3

ENSURE AN EVEN HEM

Pinning a hem on your own body can be a pain – when you’re wearing the garment! Hanging it on a dress form will give you a better view from all sides so you can pin the hem more accurately.

Better still, some dress forms come with a hem marker – which vary from model to model. Some come with a chalk marker that puffs out a marking onto your fabric – whilst on the Olivia dress form pictured, you move the hem marker to the level you want, then clip it onto the fabric. Next, you insert a pin into the slot and through the fabric, then unclip, swivel the marker around to the next spot you want to pin, and repeat until you’ve pinned the whole hem.

Plus, a few more ways to use a dress form! l For testing out embellishments. You don’t need to draft your own patterns to take advantage of your dress form. If you’re thinking of adding your own design tweaks, putting your

garment on a 3D body first and pinning on the details allows you to step back and see if they look right. A dress form is super helpful for getting creative and allows you to experiment!

l Display your finished creations! I love having dress forms around me to display recent makes and any pattern samples that we’re working on.

For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 25

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!

N I U s t Q n e E m r a N g t c N e f r A e p w M Se

r u o y e v o L MANY SIZE OPTIONS

OLIVIA

This dress form can be used to make trousers or shorts as the pole on the stand can be set to one side or positioned centrally for skirts, blouses and dresses. The eightpart design allows the back length to be adjusted from waist to neck, allowing you to alter it to your shape, with five size options from petite to full figure. Price: £169

EASY TO ADJUST

DIANA

The Diana eightpart dress form is ideal if you want to create a longer back measurement on your garments, enabling you to lengthen the waistline. It has 12 adjusting dials and a four-legged stand, full shoulders to give sleeves a better hang, and a pin grip hem marker. Available in four sizes, Price: £134.99

Get dressmaking with

SEW TROUSERS AND MORE

EDITOR’S PICK

SEW DELUXE LEGFORM

A versatile eight-part dress form, this model has legs – making it ideal for fitting trousers, as well as sewing jackets, skirts, dresses and coats.

The split waist lets you lengthen garments, plus it features 12 body adjusters as well as an easy dial neck adjuster and an off-set column that allows trousers to hang straight.

Price: £159

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SUPAFIT DELUXE

Popular with beginners and experienced sewists alike, the body of this eight-part dress form is split at the waist for easy garment alterations and has 12 adjusting wheels, an adjustable neck with pincushion and a foldable tripod stand.

It also comes in a large range of sizes, with a male form option.

Price: £129.99

sew PROMOTION

“The Juliet models can be adjusted to your own measurements for easy dressmaking” The Juliet dress forms are ideal for dressmaking or making alterations to garments. They come in two sizes and have eight parts with 12 adjusting wheels so you can alter them to the desired measurements with ease. In addition, the split waist allows for making adjustments to your garment’s back length. Both versions are covered with a caramel polycotton fabric and finished using traditional craftsmanship techniques with a dark polished wooden stand, scrolled tricorn base and matching neck cap. Not only do these features make dressmaking so much easier, they’ll also look great wherever you decide to display them.

Key features: 3 Eight-part dress form

3 12 adjusting wheels 3 Split waist for back length adjustment 3 Two ladies sizes 3 Easy to adjust to desired measurements 3 Attractive wooden stand Price: £229, adjustoform.com, 01233 625227

SHOP

Established in 1991, West End Sewing Centre in Cheltenham stocks a variety of Adjustoform mannequins and has also become one of the top appointed dealers for Bernina, Janome and Juki machines in the region. Having been in the industry for over 25 years, the staff use their wealth of knowledge to provide a valued service to hundreds of customers across the country. The team cover all aspects of machine work, and sell many accessories. The large workshop above the premises is used for various classes, such as Getting to Know your Machine or Overlocker, and monthly Bernina club sessions.

of the

MONTH

WHAT’S ON OFFER?

3 A wide range of machines 3 Generous part-exchange

allowances on selected models 3 Service and repairs to most makes of machines

h s a t s y m ret... sec

Find out more: Visit: West End Sewing Centre Ltd, 11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham, GL5 4AA. Alternatively, log on to westendsewing.co.uk, or call 01242 244025.

Sew reader, Helen Louise says...

“I have an Adjustoform and I absolutely love it! As I live on my own, I used to find it hard to fit garments on my own body. I put a bra on mine when fitting, which helps to prevent future wardrobe malfunctions! It has definitely improved my dressmaking.”

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Simply STUNNING Sew chats to blogger and Simplicity designer Mimi G about her fabulous pattern collection

M

imi Goodwin is one of those people who has you wondering, ‘How on earth does she find the time to fit it all in?’ Not only is she a trends expert and editor-in-chief of the awardwinning fashion blog mimigstyle.com, she also has a YouTube channel and even developed her own line of products, ranging from ready-towear collections to her own range of sewing patterns produced with Simplicity, which she also models herself – phew!

Her interest in sewing began when she was 12 years old. “My aunt was a seamstress and during the summers I would spend most of my time in her studio, watching as she created gorgeous dresses or grabbing scraps to make clothing for my dolls,” she tells Sew. Mimi’s father bought her a Kenmore sewing machine with which she taught herself how to construct clothing, then in her late twenties she set up her first blog to share her love of sewing and design.

“It wasn’t great and I was less than consistent with it, but it was my first initial step into the world of the home sewer,” she reveals.

PERFECT PARTNERSHIP

Mimi then set up Mimi G Style, a blog devoted to fashion and sewing, and during its second year she began reviewing Simplicity patterns, which led to an exciting new collaboration.

“I worked with a great lady at the company and

Words by Melissa Hyland

This stylish and figure flattering jumpsuit, 8426, has been a huge hit Be comfortable and stylish in summer with Simplicity 8558

she asked if I’d considered designing my own pattern collection. Of course I said ‘YES!’ and now, 33 patterns later, I have become a bestselling designer for Simplicity, which makes me immensely proud.”

The Mimi G Style collection for Simplicity features a gorgeous range of outfits suited to both everyday wear and special occasions – including dresses, tops and skirts, jumpsuits, coats and capes, plus skinny and straight leg jeans. It offers everything you could possibly want to wear – and the main design ethos is fit and comfort above all else. “I wanted to design patterns for the everyday woman who has curves and enjoys showing off her body instead of hiding it,” Mimi explains. “Over the years I’ve found that people of all ages, sizes and complexions have been drawn towards my patterns because of the modern approach and simplicity – no pun intended – of my designs.”

COMING SOON

Pattern 1276 was Mimi’s very first Simplicity design!

Of course, we had to ask what Mimi has in store for us this year. “My spring and summer 2018 patterns are amazing – I can’t wait for the release,” she continues. “I’m a 70s baby so I am a big fan of flared jeans and hints of that era, and

you will certainly see lots of that. I also have some great summer dresses, but I am most excited about my three new menswear patterns, which have been so well-received. Men’s designs have always been a bit boring and don’t really reflect that both men and women sew, and I’m slowly trying to change that. I am also working on a book and a few exciting collaborations that I have coming up a little later in 2018.”

If you are new to dressmaking, Mimi suggests taking to your own wardrobe to examine your personal style. “If you select the go-to pieces you find yourself wearing all the time, that will give a clear indication of your ideal look,” she advises.

“Sometimes it’s tempting to sew a new pattern because it’s hugely popular, but you don’t always end up wearing it. I always urge people to experiment and try new things that they may not originally think would look good on them, but if you are trying a new trend or style, make sure it is me-made in that it always reflects your own unique taste and personality.”

Simplicity 1276 offers a variety of styles

See the complete Mimi G Style collection at simplicitynewlook.com 28

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MAKE 3 CAPES · MAKE 3 CAPES · MAKE 3 CAPES

Work our knitted wool

KIMMY PONCHO

If you’ve never stitched knitted fabrics before, Amanda Walker’s no-pattern throw is the perfect project for trying out the fabric and will keep you super cosy in the meantime. The oversized poncho is simple to make and finished with grosgrain ribbon around the edge. Also, as the inside neck has been finished so that no stitching is visible, it is possible to turn the poncho inside out so that the ribbon edges are on show – making it fully reversible!

Sizes

Custom sized * * One-size fits most. If reducing or enlarging, remember that the longest measurement is the length, whilst the shorter one sits across the shoulders and arms

Cutting Guide

Poncho: cut a 135cm x 165cm rectangle of fabric Neckband: cut a 23cm x 70cm rectangle from jersey 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

3 cm Centre point

1

Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Fold the poncho in half lengthwise, find the centre of the foldline and draw the neckline as indicated on the diagram. Sew the two short ends of the neckband, right sides together, to make a circle. Turn right sides out, then pin the seam to the centre-back neckline of the poncho.

Match the centre-front of the band and poncho neckline, pin the remainder of the band, then stitch in place.

4

Trim the excess fabric from the corners, then turn the ribbon to the wrong side. Pin the ribbon around the edges and fold the corners into neat mitres. Edge stitch along the ribbon so the raw edges are sandwiched inside.

165 cm

stitch a PONCHO

3

Fold line

• Knitted fabric, 1.7m (1.5m wide) • Jersey, 30cm • Grosgrain ribbon, 6.2m

Pin ribbon along the right side of the four poncho edges, covering 1cm. Edge stitch in place, stitching to the point of the corner, then leave the needle in the work, lift the foot, turn the poncho, place the foot back down and continue to stitch to the next corner.

Shoulder line 10 cm Fold line

Get started

12 cm

2

Fold in 1.5cm around the remaining edge of the neckband and place it over the stitching line, sandwiching the raw edges of the seam allowance inside the neckband.

Slip stitch the folded edge of the band to the neckline.

67.5 cm 29

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MAKE 3 CAPES · MAKE 3 CAPES · MAKE 3 CAPES M

Drape yourself in a tweed

KITTY CAPE Designed by Amanda Walker, this lined wool cape will help you step outside in style – featuring large split sections that you can adjust to be just long enough to put your arms through. The width of your fabric will determine the length of the cape – if you’re unsure, you can always make a rough toile from cheaper fabric to determine if the shape suits you.

Get started

• Lightweight wool fabric, 3m (1.6m wide) • Lining fabric, 2m (1.5m wide) • Clasp fastening

Sizes

Custom-sized

Cutting Guide

Cape: cut one on the fold from main fabric Lining: cut one on the fold from lining fabric Facing: cut one pair from main fabric Note: cut a 10cm circle in the main fabric piece, and two 40cm splits in each side of both the main fabric and lining from nape to hemline for the sleeves. Add a 1.5cm seam allowance to the straight edge of the lining and one short edge of the facing pieces

fabric together around the hem, working from the base of one split around to the other.

3

Using a 5mm seam allowance, stitch the open part of the facing and main fabric together as far as the 40cm point of the seam. Sew the other side, attaching the lining to the main fabric (the stitching line should resemble an arrowhead).

Leave a gap in the stitching in one of these straight edges on the lining sides.

4

Cut the main fabric through the centre of the stitching lines to the point. Clip the neckline and trim around the hem. Turn the cape right sides out through the gap, then tease out the seam line and press flat.

Slip stitch the gap closed by hand.

Attach the cape fastening to the top of the front opening to finish.

1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise specified.

CAPE CUTTING GUIDE

l with a classic herringbone We used a lightweight woo ofabrics.com trur re, met per weave. £28

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40 cm

Fr on to pe nin g

10 cm

Cut g Facin

2

Stitch from the edge of the facing at the hem, up the two front edges and around the neckline. Stitch the lining and main

Lining

1

Use the diagram to cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Stitch the facings to the lining as far as indicated on the diagram, 40cm on both sides, to create a three-quarter circle. Pin the joined lining and facing piece to the main cape piece, right sides together, matching the neckline and hem.

Cape

88 cm

make a DRAPEY CAPE

ES MAKE 3 CAPES · MAKE 3 CAPES · MAKE 3 CAPES

Upcycle an oversized scarf into the

MILLIE THROW Do you ever look around at accessories and other items, and see potential in them as a garment? Here, editor Jenny picked up this blanket scarf at a supermarket and thought it was pretty (and big enough!) to be worn as a throw. Upcycled by Chris Lawton, the project gives you the chance to fringe raw edges for the folded top… you can fray it to match the other naturally fringed edges or take it further to create a bigger section.

Get started • Blanket scarf

Sizes

10 cm

88 cm

Custom-sized

upcycle a COSY SHAWL

1

Seek out a blanket scarf that you feel is big enough to cover you when folded in half (ours measured 1.18m x 2.12m). Fold the scarf in half widthways, then cut it in half. The cut edge of each piece won’t be fringed so to do this, start by drawing the length of the fringe you want with tailor’s chalk or a marker, then sew along the marked line using a narrow zigzag.

2

Pull on the top thread that is closest to the raw edge and parallel to the stitched line, taking the entire thread away to reveal shorter threads that run the other way; use the tip of a hand sewing needle to loosen if needed.

Continue pulling the lengths of thread to fringe the raw edge, stopping when you come to the stitched line.

3

Place the two pieces right sides together and start sewing horizontally across the new top seam for one shoulder, 17cm from the edge. Fasten off to leave a 35cm wide gap centrally in the top, for the head to comfortably go through, then start stitching to sew the other shoulder.

Dream

MACHINE

FASHION STITCHER With an automatic four-step buttonhole and a range of features, Singer’s Talent 3321 is the perfect model for budding dressmakers – complete with useful foot accessories for every task! £179, singerco.co.uk 31

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KS FR O M I

ND

EP

EN

NDIE pattern news

SIZ ES

TO

IC PP

XX

S -5X

L

DE NT

D E SI G N E R S

Cézembre Blouse

SIZ ES

Coordinating kids’ pattern available!

XS

-XXL

by Anne Kerdilès Difficulty:

Add an extra special touch with princess seams and a striking curved hemline that gives a slight high-low effect. The top has options for short or three-quarter length sleeves and works well in lightweight materials that have good drape like cotton, crepe or viscose – so it could be an everyday tee or smart blouse, depending on your choice. £13.21, annekerdilescouture.com

OUT 20TH JANUARY

6-20 ZES SI

Cosy Jersey Dress and Tunic

by My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns Difficulty:

Who doesn’t love a brand new pattern from a just-launched label? Opt for a longsleeved soft V-neck tunic with contrast cuffs at the base and sleeves, plus handy side pockets – or, go for a slinky cover-up dress version that’s smart enough for the office yet comfy enough for a lazy weekend! £14, myhandmadewardrobepatterns.com 32

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sew DRESSMAKING

Hot coffee Top and Dress

by Made by Jack’s Mum 14

-3 0

SI Z

AMES JEANS

by Cashmerette

Difficulty: When it comes to jeans, getting the perfect fit is a must – and Ames give you just that.

With variations for apple or pear shapes and straight or skinny fit, these high-rise five-pocket champions feature every classic detail you’d expect, from pocket stays and a fly front to belt loops and rivets. What are you waiting for? Grab some stretch denim and get stitching! £10.44 (PDF), £13.42 (paper), cashmerette.com

SIZE S8

Matching couples’ hoodies, anyone?

Both the men’s and ladies’ versions include a hood, round or cowl-neck, and muff pocket. The ladies’ version also includes patch pocket and tunic length options.

FYI, there’s also a coordinating kids’ pattern called Hot Chocolate – too cute! £7.20 (PDF), madebyjacksmum.etsy.com

ES

Difficulty:

6 -2

ORLA TRAPEZE DRESS

by Sewgirl Difficulty: This retro-inspired dress is a pleasure to stitch and wear, with bust darts shaping the loose bodice and a simple loop and button closure on the back neckline. Optional add-ons are the vintage-style decorative button placket and in-seam side pocket – plus you can make it with or without short sleeves, then finish the neck with binding or a facing piece. £5 (PDF), £10 (paper), sewgirl.co.uk

ZE SI

S S -XL

Tulip dress

by Sew Different Difficulty: Aptly named the tulip, this beautiful V-neck design has a gently shaped bodice with a front pleat that gives extra ease around the waist and finishes in a delicate knee-length bubble hem. It has big in-seam pockets and there are no fastenings required, resulting in a quick make that you’ll love wearing! £9 (PDF), £15 (paper), sewdifferent.co.uk

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SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 21/12/2017 12:37 Page 34

Lingerie or Sewing Short Courses at London College of Fashion 20 John Prince’s Street, London W1G 0BJ To find out more and book: +44 (0)20 7514 7489

Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

www.arts.ac.uk/fashion @LCFshortcourses

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STITCH IT WITH

Lauren Guthrie’s

F

TOP 4forTOOLS sewing lingerie

or all of the years I’ve been sewing handmade garments, it’s only recently I’ve noticed all kinds of wonderful lingerie accessories and patterns coming out... making it more accessible than ever before!

If you’re thinking of stitching your own undies, here are the products I’d recommend...

1

4 2

Opt for silk thread with lingerie! It’s smooth, strong and slides easily through your fabric without leaving marks, so is perfect for tacking and finishing.

3

1 LACE PINS

These rustless stainless steel pins are the safest way to keep lace fabric in place when sewing lingerie, nightwear and more, as they won’t leave any marks on the material. Lace pins, £3.84 , prym.com

2 BRA EXTENDER

Bra extenders allow you to add more ease to existing underwear and come in a variety of colours too!

40mm bra extender (3 x 3 hooks), £2.20, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 35

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3 EMBROIDERY SCISSORS Make small cuts into your material and trim threads without the risk of catching and damaging your main fabric. Embroidery scissors, from £13.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

4 LOOP TURNER

With a little hook at the end, this nifty tool helps turn fine lengths of fabric inside out to make delicate straps – no more struggling with fiddly tubes of material for you!

Loop turner, £3.75, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

sewing

SoS

Discover how to make your own pretty lingerie and get the perfect fit

Q

I tried sewing some briefs, but they kept riding up, making them very uncomfortable!

Is there any way to avoid this?

Pauline Taylor

Jennifer says

Adding more fabric across the lower back of your briefs will help – if there isn’t enough there to cover your entire behind, they will ride up. The best way to avoid this is to find a pattern with fuller coverage – my Nixie Briefs design has more fabric across the back than your average undies, whilst still being cute and flirty. It also has a higher rise at the back of the waistband that also prevents them riding down.

If you still need a little extra fabric, add length to the back seam line where the gusset meets the brief back. This generally sits at the widest part of your behind on most patterns. You Nixie briefs pattern, can then gently blend that £5.96 (PDF), out to nothing each way, jenniferlaurenvintage.com which will add extra fabric across the back and also to the gusset.

If your undies are still riding up after trying these measures, you may want to consider your choice of elastic.

It needs to be tight enough to cup your bottom and hold everything in place – as a rule, the back should have more negative ease in the elastic than the front. Fold-over elastic is one of my favourites for lingerie because it’s strong and long-lasting.

Q

Can you offer any tips for sewing knickers, particularly when it comes to adding the elastic?

Wendy Lister

Lisa says

With a reputation for being fiddly, sewing your own lingerie can seem off-puttingly tricky at first. But once I learned a few tips and tricks, I found that making your own knickers is fun, quick and massively satisfying. Not to mention a fab stash-buster!

When pinning the elastic, it can be difficult to evenly distribute the fabric around the waistline and legs. To help with this, I divide the elastic into quarters, then do the same for the waist or leg openings, marking each point with a fabric marker. Next, I pin at these points to ensure I have evenly spaced quarters, before easing the elastic and knicker fabric together, quarter by quarter.

When it comes to sewing the elastic, I like to use a walking foot. I’ve also found it helps to loosen the pressure on the presser foot, which prevents lightweight fabrics from being sucked into the feed dogs and chewed up by the sewing machine. Using a zigzag stitch will also allow your stitching to stretch, which is imperative for lingerie.

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here to

help

JENNIFER LAUREN

LISA COMFORT

KATE UNDERDOWN

The designer and owner of Jennifer Lauren Handmade, a modern pattern brand with a nod towards vintage attire.

Star of the UK sewing community, providing her own patterns, workshops and more from her London shop.

The co-founder of online community The Fold Line – if you have a stitchy query, you can be sure they’ll have the answer to it!

jenniferlauren vintage.com

sewoverit.co.uk

top 4 thefoldline.com

Lingerie care items

We don’t call them delicates for nothing! Whether it’s cotton, lace or silk, your undies require some extra TLC to make them last.

Hand washing is best but you can use a gentle cycle on your washing machine if you treat them kindly.

Keep them safe White mesh net washing bags, £6.99 for three

Romy bra pattern, £8.24 (PDF), ohhhlululingerie.com

Double protection Dry: Soon delicates & lingerie wash bags, £14.99 for two

Q

Can you recommend any nice lingerie sewing patterns that would suit a beginner?

Rebecca Dawson

Kate says

There are some lovely lingerie designers out there and it’s a great way to use up some of your scrap fabric. If you’re starting out, I’d recommend sewing knickers first as they are the easiest of the two, plus not using a fabric that you love or is too expensive – allowing you to experiment and make sure you get the fit right first. Choose a material that’s comfortable as well as pretty… stretch fabrics are good for pants but if you’re new to sewing with these, you might want to start with a soft cotton or even upcycle an old T-shirt.

Once you are happy with knickers and want to move onto bras, there are some fantastic options without underwires – and these are much easier to make. A few pattern designers that are really worth checking out are Ohhh Lulu (ohhhlululingerie.com) and, once you become more confident, Orange Lingerie (orange-lingerie.com) – both offer some gorgeous designs you can make. I’d also recommend the range of bra patterns that Madalynne designed for Simplicity (simplicitynewlook.com).

tip!

Check your seam allowances on lingerie patterns as these can vary between designs and be anywhere from 1.5cm-1.8cm.

Gently does it

Lavender wool wash detergent, £4.99

Hang to dry

Soft grip peg smalls dryer, £9.99

All items available from lakeland.co.uk 37

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The Suffragettes proved that sewists have the power to inspire change in the world

Image © Museum of London

Words by Emma Thompson

F

The Defiance machine was advertised in Suffragette newspaper Votes for Women

STRONG STITCHES

The important link between sewing and the women’s suffrage movement was not overlooked even at the time, and themed sewing goods were soon available on the market, including Votes for Women trademarked hook and eye closures sold by members of the Women’s Social and Political Movement, and a hand-crank sewing machine named Defiance

by the distributor W. J. Harris & Co in a show of support and recognition.

As clashes with the authorities became more bitter, women continued to use the needle to promote their message and drum up support.

In 1910, 80 hunger-strikers embroidered their purple signatures on linen rectangles, which were stitched together onto a traditional friendship quilt and sold to raise £10 (the equivalent of more than £1,000 today) for the cause and carried proudly in public later that year. Banners such as this were incredibly significant in the campaign for equality as they displayed the message in both a beautiful and visually striking way, with designs even from professional artists such as May Morris, which the public couldn’t help but take notice of.

BEYOND EXPECTATIONS Mary Lowndes, a successful artist at the time, applauded the ‘political societies started by women, managed by women and sustained by women’ and how ‘in their dire necessity they have started them; with their household wit 38

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they manage them; in their poverty, with ingenuity and many labours, they sustain them.’ Whereas political meetings before had been carried out around a table with the occasional cigar, plans for suffrage were made by women whilst they were getting on with everyday life, holding meetings at work or in between taking care of their children – then crafting campaign material when they got a chance.

Despite the fierce opposition faced from those who wished to retain

Image © Museum of London

ebruary marks the centenary of the Representation of the People Act 1918, which allowed some women to participate in the British electoral voting system. This step towards equality was won after countless debates determining our capacity to make informed decisions, more than 50 years of petitioning parliament, the imprisonment and force-feeding of campaigners, and the death of Suffragette Emily Davidson. We often take it for granted nowadays that we are allowed to participate in election days, and can forget the effort and sacrifices our foremothers made for us to be granted this right.

Starting out as a very small group with little support, women who wanted the vote had to be resourceful, using whatever they had to hand to create their campaign material. It’s hardly surprising a lot of it was sewn, because practically the entirety of the female population had been taught the ‘womanly craft’. This meant that everyone who wanted to get involved could easily whip up something, whether it was a subtle hand-embroidered coat button or great sashes and banners for protests and demonstrations – meaning that the message was able to quickly spread throughout the country. Soon, the distinguishing combination of purple, green and white (said to represent the dignity, hope and purity of the cause) was everywhere.

Medal presented to Scottish Suffragette Florence Haig, inscribed ‘For Valour’ with the dates of her three hunger strikes

‘Voicing opinions through creativity makes your voice stronger, your compassion deeper and your quest for justice more infinite.’

n

Betsy Greer, craftivist

YOU CAN DO IT TOO

successfully lobbying a major British retailer to pay their employees a living wage by sending board members embroidered handkerchiefs.

This form of protest was coined as ‘craftivism’

by Betsy Greer, who said, ‘Voicing opinions through creativity makes your voice stronger, your compassion deeper and your quest for justice more infinite.’

In this day and age, with fewer people able to sew but more passion for the craft from those who can, it’s easier than ever for stitchers to make a difference. Simply create something beautiful that conveys the message of what you think needs to change, show it in a public place, and people will be drawn to it. Whether you’re a master crafter or just starting out, be proud of what you can achieve and let what you make really represent you. Oh, and regarding what exactly you should protest about? That decision, and every other one you make, is entirely yours, thanks to our Suffragette sisters.

Image © Dominic Winter Auctions

Making social and political change with our hands is definitely not a thing of the past, and this side of the millennium has seen crafters tackle serious modern-day issues, from Danish artist Marianne Jorgensen’s anti-war knitted tank blanket to the Craftivist Collective

Suffragettes raise money for the cause, selling sweets at the Women’s Exhibition in 1909. WSPU leader Emmeline Pankhurst is third from the right. um of London Photograph by Christina Broom © Muse

the status quo, these politically-charged women were successful largely in part because they were left to their own devices whilst crafting campaign material. Deliberately making use of what was, and still can today, be looked down upon by men as a frivolous ladies’ activity, they were not only creating works of art but uniting with other women whilst announcing to society that they were unashamed of their sex.

Although it worked in women’s favour in this instance, in today’s society the dismissal of crafts because they are largely undertaken by women can in fact cut many men off from the physical and mental benefits we all enjoy.

However, these misconceptions are very gradually being broken down and the stigma that guys once faced for stitching is fading – just look to past contestants of The Great British Sewing Bee if you need a reminder. Moreover, in light of recent events triggering the #MeToo campaign and ‘The Silence Breakers’ being named as Time magazine’s Person of the Year 2017, we’re hoping to see women taken more seriously from here on out in every aspect.

Suffragettes we sit and sew/ Sew and sit and sit and sew/ Twenty-five are we:/ Making shirts and socks for men/ Cannot get away from them/ Even here you see. By Constance Bryer whilst in Birmingham prison, serving four months for breaking windows.

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WHAT DID WE WIN? Full electoral equality between men and women was not allowed until 1928. The Representation of the People Act 1918 gave all men over 21 the vote, as well as those over 19 who had served in WWI. Women had to be 30 years of age and above and meet one of the following criteria: • Hold a degree and live in a constituency with a university • Be (or be married to) a member of the Local Government Register • Own property If these rules still applied, how many women you know would have the right to vote?

find out MORE The Votes for Women exhibition commemorates the centenary of the first women winning the right to vote, highlighting the untold stories of women in the Suffragette movement. Entry is free, and the exhibition runs until 2nd January 2019. Find out more at museumoflondon.org.uk

SEW FEB 2018 master_SEW 21/12/2017 14:17 Page 40

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YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Assembling straps 3 Adding pockets 3 Gathering with elastic cord

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

You can’t help but smile in our

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

CLARA PINNY

Using just three simple pattern pieces, this apron dress by Fiona Hesford is a handy one-size garment that adjusts to your frame through the gathered elastic sides, which makes it a great maternity option too. After stitching patch pockets and shoulder straps, enjoy giving your pinafore a stylish finish with some perfect topstitching!

Get started

• 8oz denim, 1.2m (142cm wide) • 1m round-cord elastic

Sizes One size

Finished skirt circumference: 140cm Finished length: approx. 107cm from shoulder

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut two Strap: cut two Pocket: cut two 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

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stitch a PINAFORE Sewing the straps & pockets

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING Visit sewmag.co.uk/ templates to download and print the pattern, then cut out the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide and transfer any markings.

This pattern includes four templates: for the front, back, strap and pocket. l You’ll require a bluntended needle with a large eye for threading the round cord elastic when gathering the sides. l When topstitching, extend the length to 2.8mm and sew roughly 4mm from the seam line on the right side. Use a contrast colour thread to accentuate the stitching. l In case you missed it on the previous page, a 1cm seam allowance is used throughout! You can finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlocker. l

1

Fold each strap in half lengthways, right sides together.

Sew down one long side, trim the seam allowance to 5mm, then turn each strap right side out. Press, then topstitch each long edge.

2

Neaten all pocket edges except for the slanted one; press a double 1cm hem here, then stitch. Press over 1cm on all of the other edges except for the shortest one.

3

Pin a pocket to the front piece as indicated, lining up the short unfolded edge with the side seam. Pin, tack, topstitch around the three folded edges, then press. Repeat for the other pocket.

Stitching the front & back pieces

4

Finish the vertical raw edges of both the front and back pieces. Sew the back pieces together at the centre back.

5

Press, then topstitch along the centre-back seam. Pin, then sew the front to the back, right sides together, at the skirt.

6

Press the side seam allowance open. Press a double 1cm hem at the armhole edge on each side. Pin, then stitch.

Attaching the straps

7

Press a double 1cm hem at the top straight horizontal raw edge of both the front and back. Insert the raw straight edge of one strap under the hem at the top edge of the front.

8

Ensure the strap end is close to the outer edge on each side, with the slanted end under the folded hem at the back with the points at the centre. Pin, then sew across, close to the edge.

9

After you sew across, fold the straps up and press. Pin, then stitch again close to the outer edge so you have two lines of parallel stitching. Sew in any loose threads.

Gathering the sides & hemming

Use round-cord elastic at the sides of the joined front and back to gather!

10

Thread a blunt end needle with round-cord elastic and insert it into the armhole hem where the A mark is transferred.

11

Feed the cord through the hem to position B, secure it to the back of the hem, then feed it back to the starting position.

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12

Tie the elastic ends together, then feed them into the hem. Hem the lower edge as required.

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

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Top, £8.99, H&M, Necklace, £12, Mood by Jon Richard

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MACHINE

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WHY NOT TRY

PRETTY CREPE

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1

If there’s one thing that crepe fabric is famous for, it’s the movement and flowing drape that the material offers.

Sometimes rough to the touch, other versions you’ll find are silky and smooth since the fabric is woven in everything from silk and wool to polyester and viscose, which ultimately determines the texture it provides. Because crepe tends to move around, take even greater care when cutting out the pieces and be extra zealous with lots of fine sewing pins.

2

3

4

Bargain

Floral blouse from primark.com

FABRIC BUYS!

5 1 Kingfisher in mustard gold, £10 per metre 2 Foliage canopy crepe, £14.90 per metre 3 Viscose crepe in teal, £13 per metre 4 Delilah crepe, £16 per metre 5 Kingfisher in green, £10 per metre All of the featured fabrics are available from sewisfaction.co.uk 44

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SEWCIAL Network Meet Iona Barker of Say It Ain’t Sew, offering free sewing classes that are having a positive effect all over Scotland

M

Words by Melissa Hyland

ost of us know that sewing is good for us – not only is it satisfying to create something from scratch, it’s also a great way to relax and unwind.

Since 2010, designer Iona Barker has been sharing those benefits via Say It Ain’t Sew, an organisation that offers free weekly hand sewing classes to anyone who wants to learn in Glasgow, Edinburgh, Ellon, Aberdeen and Stirling. “We envision a happy and creative world where we use craft as a tool to reduce social isolation, improve cognitive skills and increase mental well-being,” she tells Sew. Iona’s own interest in sewing began at an early age and was encouraged by her mother and grandmother, who taught her the basics.

“Although I got in trouble on many occasions for cutting up things that I wasn’t supposed to, it didn’t curb my enthusiasm!” she recalls.

As an adult, she moved up to London to work in the fashion industry and costume design, but eventually moved home after suffering extreme burnout. Back in Scotland, Iona started work in a bar that was looking for fun things for customers to do in a new premises opening in Glasgow’s West End – and it was here that Say It Ain’t Sew was born.

SPREADING THE WORD

“I began running sewing classes the week after the bar opened – it was what I looked forward to most during the week,” Iona explains. “It became so popular that people holidaying in Glasgow were making trips especially to join in. By 2014, one of our participants had moved to Edinburgh, so we decided to start having sessions there too. Now we run out of Brewdog bars in Glasgow,

Classes may be coming to a location near you!

Aberdeen, Stirling and Ellon, whilst in Edinburgh we can be found in Cabaret Voltaire.”

Say It Ain’t Sew was founded on Iona’s belief that hand sewing should be accessible to everyone, whatever their age, gender, background, ability, financial and social status. “We get all kinds of people coming to the classes – those who are out of work due to unemployment or disability, students, retired people, young mums with kids, and men who want to learn a new skill and fix their own clothes,” Iona reveals.

“Hand sewing is more relevant now than it has ever been as the benefits are immeasurable. We believe that people deserve to learn this craft in a positive and encouraging environment.”

COMMUNITY SERVICE

Recent statistics from a report commissioned by the late MP Jo Cox revealed that more than nine million adults in the UK are often or always lonely, showing just how widespread this issue is. With loneliness said to be deadlier than obesity or smoking 15 cigarettes a day, the effects are more serious and saddening than previously thought. As well as learning useful skills, Iona’s classes aim to combat feelings of isolation by providing the opportunity to meet up and socialise with others. “We run a few classes for older people who have lost their partners in recent years, and the communities and friendships that are being built through these are just wonderful,” Iona says. “We also get a lot of young mothers who come along with their babies – being a new mum can be extremely challenging, so it means they can come and spend a few hours with us being creative and having fun.”

This year promises to be just as busy for Say It Ain’t Sew, which could be coming to a location near you some time in the future! “We are hoping to get non-profit status and apply for funding with a view of opening up more classes across the UK,” Iona reveals. “I’ve also been presenting sewing and crafts on TV over the last four years as well as via our YouTube channel, and would love to do more of that to spread the crafty message even further. Sewing is a universal language that crosses many cultures around the world – as the UK changes, we can set aside our differences to come together and create.”

TO FIND OUT MORE, VISIT SAYITAINTSEW.ORG, OR VISIT YOUTUBE.COM/SAYITAINTSEW 45

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Try sewing with bouclé to fashion a

GEMMA JACKET sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew a SMART BLAZER Get started

• Bouclé fabric, 1.5m (150cm wide) • Fusible medium-weight interfacing, 50cm • Two small covered shoulder pads • Three buttons

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Front: cut one pair Back: cut one on the fold Front facing: cut one pair Back neck facing: cut one on the fold Collar: cut one pair Sleeve: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer the markings. Stitch darts into the front pieces as marked, sewing from base to point, then press towards the centre. Use an overlock or zigzag stitch to neaten across the shoulders and down the side edges of the front and back pieces.

2

Fuse interfacing to the front facings and one collar piece.

Stitch the collar pieces, right sides together, leaving the neck edge open. Trim the bulk, then turn right sides out, ensuring that

A smart jacket is a wardrobe essential that can be dressed up or down, and this tailored version by Amanda Walker ticks all the right boxes. It allows you to practise sewing with bouclé fabric – although a soft denim or corduroy would work equally well – plus lets you add darts and insert shoulder pads to create a sharp silhouette.

the corners are pushed out completely. Press.

3

Pin the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams, right sides together, then stitch. Press the seam allowances open. Match the collar centrally on the neck edge with the centre-back of the jacket, then sew together.

4

Stitch the front facings to the back neck one at the shoulder seams, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open. Position the facing over the collar and sew along the neck, front edges and base. Pin the side seams and stitch, then press the seams open.

5

Neaten the long edges of the sleeves. Sew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams, right sides together. Press the seams open, then turn the sleeves right sides out.

6

Pull the gathering threads up and place the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together, matching the side and underarm seams. Adjust the gathers to fit the armhole, then pin and stitch in place. Neaten around the seam allowances of the armhole.

7

Fold and press a 3cm sleeve and base hem, then hand stitch.

Make three buttonholes on the right-hand side of the jacket and sew three corresponding buttons on the left. Stitch the shoulder pads in place (see Core Skill panel). Attach the ends of the facing shoulder seams to the shoulder pads to stop the facing rolling out.

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Bouclé can be woven both tightly and loosely - the looser ones are harder to sew!

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

SEWING SHOULDER PADS Fold the shoulder pad in half and mark the centre line. Align this line on the pad with the seam line on the wrong side of the jacket shoulder. Backstitch the pad to the shoulder seam allowance, close to the seam line, catching just the top layer of the pad or pad cover (don’t sew through the entire pad as this will distort the shape.)

Sew the points of the pad to the seam allowances of the armhole to finish.

sew

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SIX

easy-to-enter

categories Everyday

. . . t x e n r u o e B

Tops, skirts and gowns that fit like a glove, featuring comfort and ease of wear.

Occasion

Special ensembles that showcase the finest designs for parties and fancy events.

Vintage

Retro makes in your fave style for endless interpretations of bygone beauty.

Upcycling

Bring new life to existing items and show us all of your customised creations.

’s Chiwld earren

Jacqueline Malcolm, Children’s category

Rabitha Rajesh, Everyday category

Heather John, Occasion category

Lucy Brown, Upcycling category

Adaline Banks, Simplicity category

Patricia Morris, Everyday category

Candy Arbuckle, Occasion category

Rianne Kierkels, Children’s category

Emma Barnes, Simplicity category

Show off your favourite make for your little loved ones, from junior jackets to petite pinnies!

NEW! Simplicity Stitch up your FREE pattern this issue and send us a snap.

It couldn’t be easier!

enter HOW TO

Simply take a clear photo of your garment against a plain background and enter it online at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear.

You can include up to five shots of your make and are also able to tell us a little more information about your entry or the story behind it. You can enter each category, with multiple entries if you wish, but each entry must be a different garment. All entries must be submitted by...

9TH MARCH 2018.

MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Tilly Walnes

The supertalented designer, seamstress and founder of pattern house Tilly and the Buttons will be imparting her creative flair and technical wisdom to our panel.

Meet our judges Miss Libby Rose

Popular sewing star Miss Libby Rose believes in the therapeutic benefits of stitching and travels the UK, teaching and spreading the word in her Pink Sewing Bus.

Tricia Morris, Children’s category

Val Clarke, Everyday category

Madeleine Oakley, Occasion category

Charmaine West, Children’s category

Elizabeth Jordan, Upcycling category

Dee Mills, Occasion category

Stuart Hillard

Beloved former Sewing Bee sensation, our main man Stuart is also an author and popular TV personality. He has a passion for textiles and crafting innovation.

Portia Lawrie Our first Dressmaker of the Year, refashion queen and blogger supreme, Portia’s know-how and competition insights make her a true asset to our judging panel.

Sarah Grimwood, Occasion category

Annie Mollison, Simplicity category

Laura Hethering, Occasion category

Vicky Gill Showstopping queen of the sequins, Strictly’s head costume designer and commercial seamstress will certainly be bringing sparkle in the bucket loads to our judging dream team.

Jo Woods, Occasion category

Helen Turner, Children’s category

Linda Wild, Simplicity category

ENTER AT MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR

USE VANDYKE STITCH TO EMBELLISH

Susie Johns’

FLORAL BLOUSE sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

When worked in a straight line, Vandyke stitch creates a decorative band – but it can also be used to fill in simple shapes such as leaves and petals. This makes it very useful for decorative motifs as it is both easy and quick to do. Here we’ve used it to embroider petals and leaves onto a plain shop-bought shirt. The floral motif also includes stems, which are embroidered using split stitch, while the outline of the flower is worked in blanket stitch.

Get started • Plain blouse • Erasable pen • Embroidery thread • Embroidery hoop

Size Custom-sized* *Note: reduce or enlarge motif to suit your garment

Decorate a shirt

1

Download and print the floral motif at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then trace it on to the blouse. If your shirt is dark or too opaque to see the motif through, tape it onto a window and place the garment on top to trace it.

Secure the blouse in an embroidery hoop. It doesn’t matter if the whole design is too big – just re-position the hoop as required. Prepare a crewel needle with three strands of embroidery thread and fill in each of the petal and leaf shapes (see the Vandyke stitch column, opposite).

Work blanket stitch all around the edge of the flower shape, then embroider the stems in split stitch. When complete, take the fabric out of the hoop and remove the pen marks according to the packet’s instructions. Place the work face-down on a folded towel and press to remove any creases in the fabric.

2 3

linen for this Choose a top in a firm cotton orembroider and project, as this will be easier toced in the hoop. less likely to distort when pla 50

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sew DRESSMAKING

Vandyke stitch When working this as a filling stitch, draw a simple shape and bring the needle through the fabric on the lines. It is usually worked from top to bottom but do what feels natural. The stitch has a chainlike ridge down the middle.

Vary the appearance by changing the length of the ‘arms’ on either side, or by increasing or decreasing the space between the stitches.

1

Bring the needle out at A on the left-hand side and stitch from B to C at the top.

2

Pull the thread taut.

Insert the needle at D, level with A, and bring it out at E.

3

Without piercing the fabric, pass the needle under the crossed threads, as shown.

4

Pull the thread taut.

Insert the needle at F, level with E, and bring it out at G.

5

Repeat the sequence, passing the needle under the crossed threads immediately above until the shape is filled.

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keep littl’uns warm and dry with a

HOODED TOWEL

Whether your youngster is a reluctant bather or a water baby, they will love being wrapped up snug in Debbie Shore’s foxy faced towel afterwards! Lined with absorbent towelling, the fleecy outer layer makes it extra cosy and soft.

Get started

• Towelling fabric: 76cm x 102m • Patterned and plain brown fleece fabric • Two googly or button eyes • White pom-pom

Size 73.5cm square

Cutting guide

Towel: cut one 76cm square each e from towelling and patterned fleec m 44.5c x m Fox head: cut one 20.3c rectangle from towelling and plain fleece Ears: cut four 10.3cm (width) x 12.8cm (height) triangles 1.2cm seam allowance is used throughout.

get the

Make a baby’s bath towel

1

Cut all of the pieces according to the cutting guide. Trim a curve from one top corner of each towel piece. Use the curved corner as a template to round each fox head piece into a semi circle shape. Sew the curved pieces right sides together across the straight edge, then fold them wrong sides together and topstitch along the seam.

Trim the long sides of each ear triangle piece to curve it and sew right sides together in pairs, leaving the bottom edge open. Turn both ears right sides out.

Pin, then tack them right sides together to the sides of the plain fleece square for the fox head, so they’re facing inwards.

Place this head piece back over the curved corner of the patterned fleece square, right sides together.

Pin the towelling square over the top so that the head is sandwiched in between the two pieces and the curved corners match up.

2

3

book

4

Sew around, leaving a 10cm gap in one side for turning. Turn right sides out and topstitch around. Sew on googly or button eyes securely, then add a pom-pom to the front of the hood for a nose.

““ Leave off the features if you want to make a plain towel.

Alternatively, you can make the ears round so the hood looks like a teddy bear! ” Debbie Shore, Create and Craft Sewing Expert

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Find more cute projects in Sew Baby by Debbie Shore (£9.99, Search Press), coming this month to createandcraft.com and live TV.

E

!

E R V E SI FF U L RO C EX ADE RE

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The promotion is valid on orders placed with createandcraft between 00:01 BST on 8th Jan 2018 and 23:59 BST on 8th Feb 2018. The promotion is available to all Create and Craft customers.

The qualifying code (15SEW30) is redeemable against sewing products on Create and Craft orders through the website createandcraft.com, phone, IVR and mobile app to receive £15 off when a customer spends over £30, excluding P&P charges. The code cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion code and can only be redeemed once per customer, per household.

Ideal Shopping Direct Limited reserves the right from time to time and at any time to cancel, discontinue, temporarily or permanently, or amend the promotion or these rules, with or without prior notice (including, without limitation, in the case of anticipated, suspected or actual fraud). For full terms and conditions go to createandcraft.com/gb/competitions-and-promotions

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Wrap up littl’uns this spring in a

Get started

KIKO TOP & MITTENS

• Plain and floral cotton, 1m of each • Double-fold bias tape, 2m • 5mm-wide velvet ribbon, 75cm • 5mm-wide suede strip, 50cm • Pink and green embroidery thread

Size

Kimono: 22cm x 48cm Mitten: 8cm x 10cm

Cutting guide

Kimono front: cut one pair each from plain and floral cotton Kimono back: cut one each from plain and floral cotton Pocket: cut one each from plain and floral cotton Mitten: cut four 10cm x 12cm plain rectangles, and four 10cm x 11cm floral rectangles

This pretty wrapover top for newborns is easy to put on and take off, and reversible too – meaning the lining can be worn on the outside if you feel like a change, or in case of messy emergencies! You’ll be binding the garment edges and embroidering a simple motif, plus you can practise using your machine’s buttonhole function for the suede tie openings on the matching mittens.

sew

4 sew a WRAP TOP

3

sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a pair of

MITTENS

1

Cut the mitten pieces according to the cutting guide. Place a plain and floral rectangle right sides together, sew along one short edge, then press the seams open. Repeat to make another pair. Use the mitten template to mark the buttonhole positions on both sides, then make 1cm long buttonholes.

Place the two sets of joined rectangles right sides together, align the template on the seam and draw around it. Sew along the drawn lines, leaving a 3cm opening on the floral section, trim the seam allowance, then turn the mitten right sides out. Push the floral lining inside the mitten and press.

Sew a running stitch all around the buttonhole with green thread, 3mm from the edges. Cut the suede strip in two, thread it through the buttonholes using a safety pin and tie in a bow.

Make up the second mitten in the same way.

Sew the perfect gift for a newborn baby!

2

3

3 cm

8 cm

2

free pattern download

10 cm

1

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk /templates, then cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide. Mark the pocket template 3cm from the right and 8cm from the bottom on the plain righthand front piece. Transfer the teddy bear motif onto the fabric above the pocket, then backstitch it using pink embroidery thread.

Lay the plain and floral pocket pieces right sides together and sew, leaving a 3cm opening on the straight side.

Turn right sides out and press, then topstitch the turning gap closed, 2mm from the edge.

Topstitch the pocket onto the right-hand front piece at the marked position, 2mm around the side and bottom edges.

Cut the velvet ribbon into three 25cm pieces. Align the plain back and two front pieces, right sides together. Place one ribbon 10cm up from the bottom-left corner, leaving the raw edge outside. Sew both sides of the kimono and along the shoulders and sleeves. Repeat for the floral pieces, positioning the second ribbon piece below the left arm, adjacent to the first ribbon.

Turn the plain kimono right sides out, place the floral lining inside it, align, then pin all edges.

Starting from the neckline, pin the double-fold bias tape around the front opening and arm openings on both long edges, and sew. Place the third ribbon 10cm above the bottom edge of the right-hand front piece while sewing the bias tape, leaving its raw edge inside the seam. Finish sewing the bias tape so that the join is behind the neck.

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sew DRESSMAKING

get the

BOOK

Find more cute projects in Made For Baby by Ayda Algin. £14.95, tuvapublishing.com 55

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Large polka vase, £59.95, annabeljames.co.uk Boogie Woogie cushion, £125, vintagecushions.com

delightfull.eu

Yellow Planter, £14, sainsburyshome.co.uk

I’m judging Dressmaker of the Year again this year – I hope you’ll enter!

The Military Wives Choir collection, from £3, mandco.com

At home with...

© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.

STUART HILLARD With both interiors and Dressmaker of the Year, don’t be a shrinking violet...

I know a lot of people really struggle with February… the last month of winter really is the most unwelcome guest at the party and even though it’s our shortest month, it really seems to hang around forever!

Being my birth month, February has a special appeal to me and for this reason, has always been a month to celebrate and enjoy. Just like our forebears, I’ve always believed that when life is at its darkest you really just need to light more candles... and this year, there will be 47. Now, how on earth did that happen?! Getting older has certainly made me wiser and surer of myself. Knowing what I like, growing and developing my personal sense of style and being sure what is right for me have all been milestones that I’ve reached and embraced, along with a slower metabolism and a thicker waist...

NOT SO SHRINKING VIOLET February always brings with it a fresh sense of style in the world of interiors and I got very excited by the announcement of Pantone’s colour of the year… it turns out that 2018 is going to be all about Ultra Violet. This rich, blue tinged, celestial shade is powerful, mindful and more than a little magical. It brings to mind the galaxies, and hints at the vastness of space and distant depths

of the universe. It is definitely not to be confused with purple, which has red undertones. Many people don’t actually realise but violet is one of the colours in the spectrum, it’s right there in the rainbow – whilst purple is a mix of red and blue and most definitely absent from it! Ultraviolet light, the colour in its strictest sense, isn’t actually visible to most humans… it’s outside our perception, although a rare few creatures can see it. Claude Monet, the impressionist painter, had surgery in his eighties to remove cataracts from his eye and as a result was

“For me, making your own clothing is all about expressing your vision and sense of uniqueness” able to see ultraviolet light. His later paintings were thought to have a shimmering violet haze to them, which is often accredited to his altered vision. 2018 is going to be all about big, bold colours, so if you are going to embrace Ultra Violet make sure you go hard and do it to the max! Violet works wonderfully with chrome yellows, and all metals tend to look good with this very versatile shade. Clear reds, bright or candy pinks, and soft buttery yellows also play very nicely with violet hues, and you can also bring out more of the blue tones in this shade by introducing all number of surf-inspired hues. Add silver for a dreamy combination, or if you prefer a more cohesive

Food colouring is perfect for cake frosting but has lots of other uses too!

scheme, try pairing violet with all manner of similar shades… think lilac, mauve and lavender, then throw in some neutrals such as taupe for a more restful and calming take on this year’s number one colour. This month I am also loving Wilton’s violet food colouring... not only is it perfect for staining my birthday cake frosting the most gloriously rich shade, it’s also surprisingly good for dyeing fabrics, yarn and wool roving!

SHOW OFF YOUR STYLE Talking about style and colour combinations… there is still time to get your entry into the Dressmaker of the Year 2018 competition at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear. Last year saw a huge number of entries and now there are even more categories to enter. For me, making your own clothing is all about expressing your personal vision and sense of uniqueness… we look at every aspect of your make when we are judging the competition and your fabric. Elements such as colour and pattern choices are as important to me as your sewing skills and workmanship. I love to see the variety, the choices and the personal expression that makes every handmade garment a thing of beauty.

Till next month!

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 56

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• TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL •

your essential guide to TOY-MAKING BRING YOUR FABRIC TO LIFE!

Make our Hattie the hare on page 71

Toys and toy-making have existed since the earliest civilisations. Yes, people have always had a desire for play and comfort. Rag dolls, teddy bears, crocheted figures… the majority of us can recall a toy in our childhood that was, and maybe still is, special to us. In the following pages, you’ll find four projects that will help you create beautiful toys, whatever your abilities. Make a little one’s day with a patchwork turtle sewn from a fat quarter of fabric,

assemble stuffed discs and satin ribbon into a tactile caterpillar, turn fabric offcuts into a scrappy doll, or whip up a fun narwhal friend! One of the most enjoyable parts of toy-making is giving your creation its own sense of character, so enjoy experimenting with the hair, facial expressions, embellishments, and fabric choices. Don’t forget to omit any small elements and embroider the features instead if making for a baby or young child.

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• TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL •

Get started • Cotton, six fat quarters • Pink felt or fleece, 23cm square • Red felt scraps • Blue yarn • 2.5cm-wide red satin ribbon, 1m • 25cm thin elastic • Toy stuffing

sew

free template download

Cutting guide

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Body: cut two each from six different fabrics and pink felt or fleece Cheek: cut two from red felt Leg: cut 12 5cm lengths of ribbon Top loop: cut one 20cm length of ribbon Antenna: cut four 12cm lengths of blue yarn 1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise specified.

Make a cuddly caterpillar

1

Visit sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the templates, then cut the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide.

Arrange the discs in pairs.

2

Fold the first two ribbon pieces in half, then pin each one to the right side of the first disc with the loops facing the centre. Pin the second disc on top, right sides together. Sew around, leaving a gap for turning.

get the

Designer: Tina Barrett

3

Turn right sides out, stuff, then slip stitch the gap closed.

Repeat to make six body segments. Thread elastic centrally through all of the discs again, then back through all of them.

Fasten off.

4

Sew the red felt circles onto a pink felt or fleece disc. Use black thread to embroider the mouth and make two French knots for eyes. Fold the top loop ribbon in half and pin at the top of the face so the loop points down.

5

Place the other felt or fleece disc on top. Stitch, stuff and sew closed as before. Sew the head firmly onto the body. Plait or twist two yarn lengths for each antennae, tie a knot at each end and sew to the top of the head.

book

Find more projects in Home Sewn Nursery by Tina Barrett. £5.99, thegmcgroup.com 58

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• TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL •

Get started • Cotton, assorted prints • Lightweight sew-in interfacing, 25.5cm square • Lace (optional) • Ribbon or ricrac • Stuffing • Embroidery thread • Two 5mm buttons • Three 2cm buttons (optional)

Size 24cm x 56cm

Cutting guide

Main body: cut a 25.5cm square from both cotton and interfacing Body strip: cut seven 5.75cm x 25.5cm rectangles Head: cut two 11.5cm x 25.5cm strips from cotton Arm/leg: cut four 12.75cm x 25.5cm strips from cotton 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

get the

Sew a scrappy pal

1

Cut the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Sew the strips to the body interfacing, right side facing up, starting in the middle. Place the next strip on top, right side down, with the raw edges aligned. Sew along the right-hand long edge, securing both at once.

Flip the fabric right side facing up and press. Sew a strip to the right side of the second strip as before, then press. Continue until the interfacing is covered.

Trim the top corners of the head pieces into curves. Use black thread to backstitch the eyes, work French knots for the nose and stem stitch a mouth.

If desired, add buttons for eyes (omit if making for a young child) and pin a 5cm x 51cm length of lace along the raw edge of the neck seam. To add a collar, fold two 7.5cm squares in half diagonally to make triangles and position each fold centrally at the neckline, with the raw edges of the collar aligned with the edge of the square. Sew three 2cm buttons below.

Pin a head piece to the top of each main body piece, right sides together, then stitch.

Fold each arm and leg strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long open side. Fold the base of the leg so the seam sits in the middle, finger press it, then sew across the bottom.

Trim the corners and press the seam open along the length. Turn right sides out, then press flat. Lightly stuff the legs, plus the arms if desired.

Pin the limbs to the front body, aligning the raw edges. To make the hair, loop the ricrac braid, trim it to the desired length and pin

book Find more pretty projects in Sew Layer Cake Quilts & Gifts by Carolyn Forster. £12.99, searchpress.com

2 3

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Know your stuff

Designer: Carolyn Forster

Stuffing your toy is when you really see your project come to life, and it’s important not to rush this stage. A well-stuffed toy is the difference between it being lumpy, uneven and limp or smooth, firm and evenly filled.

Take the time to tease out the stuffing so it’s fluffier, and so each piece is similar. Also, be mindful of any nooks and crannies, using a thin tool to poke the stuffing

centrally to the top of the head, raw edges aligned.

Place the back body on top of the front, right sides together, and pin around. Stitch, leaving a gap under one arm for turning.

Clip the corners and curves. Turn right sides out, smooth out the seams and stuff. Slip stitch the gap closed.

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into any small areas. Sew designer Corinne Bradd suggests always using a decent seam allowance for toys, so they don’t split when you stuff them. This polyester toy filling is perfect for toys, cushions and more! £4.99 per 450g, fabricland. co.uk

• TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL •

sew

Fabrics Good Our turtle uses Moda yellow and in ity bil ssi Po Karma Bella Solids in fuchsia

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Get started

• Cotton: 40cm x 46cm printed, 16cm x 46cm plain • Stuffing • Two small beads or embroidery thread

Size 18.5cm x 18.5cm (excl. head and limbs)

Cutting guide MAIN FABRIC Base: cut one Shell centre: cut one Shell outer: cut three Head: cut one pair Head top: cut one Leg: cut four pairs Tail: cut one pair PLAIN FABRIC Shell outer: cut three 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Stitch a sea creature

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Pair up the leg pieces right sides together, then stitch around, leaving the straight edge open. Clip the curved seams, turn right sides out, then stuff lightly. Repeat for the other legs, then make the tail in the same way.

Designer: Chloe Hailwood

2

Place the head pieces right sides together, then pin and tack from the neck to the middle of the face. Open the top half of the head pieces, then place the head top right side facing down on this so it starts at the forehead and ends at the neck.

Stitch along each side of the head top, continuing down to the neck from the second side. Stuff the head, then stitch on two beads for eyes or embroider them instead if making for a young child.

Pin the short edge of each shell outer piece to an edge of the shell centre, right sides together, then stitch. Match the edges of two adjacent outer pieces, sandwiching the tail between them, then stitch. Repeat with the head on the opposite side of the body.

Stitch the remaining outer pieces together to make the patchwork top. Pin the head and tail to the right side of the body to keep them out of the way for the next step.

Lay the patchwork shell out right side up. Place each leg on top of each remaining shell seam, matching the raw edges, then pin. Lay the base on top, right side facing down, then pin. Stitch around, leaving a 10cm gap on one edge. Turn right sides out through the gap and press.

Stuff, then slip stitch the gap closed.

Choose your fabrics The fabric world is your oyster when making toys! You can use everything from old jersey babygros and cotton shirts for upcycling into memory animals, to faux furs, fleece and flannel. Think about the purpose... do you want the toy to be played with or displayed? Will it be easy to wash? Does it need to stand the test of time? Make a decision after weighing all of these questions up.

COTTON Durable and easy to wash – busy prints are more forgiving to child’s play and will disguise any marks.

The fabric is generally soft to the touch and ideal for youngsters.

From £1 per metre.

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4

TOWELLING Fluffy yet unlikely to shed, it’s a good choice for children’s toys – or use a lightweight towel or flannel. From £4.70 per metre.

FELT Easy to cut and sew, felt is nonfraying and ideal for hand sewing – perfect for introducing your fave craft to the kids. From £0.32.

All of the featured fabrics can be found at fabricland.co.uk 60

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• TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL • TOY-MAKING SPECIAL •

Get started

• Cotton: printed and plain white • Stuffing • Blue embroidery thread • Two small buttons (optional)

Cutting guide

Chevrons We used Riley Blake’s Blue on Ne in m Mediu

MAIN FABRIC Body: cut two WHITE FABRIC Fin: cut two pairs Tusk: cut one 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a narwhal

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Pin the fins in pairs, right sides together, and stitch around the curved edges only. Clip the curves, turn right sides out and press. Fill with a little stuffing.

Pin the tusk in half lengthways, right sides together. Stitch, then turn right sides out. Use a knitting needle to insert stuffing to the end. Work a small stitch on the underside at the tip of the tusk with blue embroidery thread and wind it around the tusk to the bottom. Pull slightly, then secure with small stitches.

Lay one body piece out, right side facing up, then lay the tusk at the top of the head so it faces inwards. Place a fin either side of the body, facing inwards, a third of the way down from the head. Lay the second body piece on top, right side facing down.

Pin all pieces in place, then stitch around the whole body, leaving a gap along one side for turning.

Clip the seam allowance around the tail. Turn right sides out, stuff, then slip stitch the gap closed. Sew on two small buttons for eyes or embroider them instead.

2

sew

3

4

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Designer: Chloe Hailwood

EXPERT Toymaking “Measure twice, cut once, and interface everything!”

Delphine Brooks “Chopsticks help with stuffing small corners.”

Frances Brennan “Use a tiny stitch length on all seams, so there’s less chance of tearing during stuffing.”

Nancy Devine

tips FROM THE sew READERS

“Make sure you get a good, smiley face - whether it’s a doll, bear or another gorgeous softie! A face that looks sad, cross or a little bit scary can spoil a beautiful project, so take your time and mark it out with an air-erasable marker if it makes it easier.

If you’re not happy with your first attempt, don’t be afraid to have another go!”

Di Coverdale

“If you haven’t tried toy-making yet - just do it!”

Kathy Nolan “Work with a good quality polyester thread and back tack both sides of any openings. This helps to prevent stitches breaking when you turn pieces through.”

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“Avoid using beads or buttons on toys for really small babies and toddlers!”

Karen McAulay “When turning through, remember to leave a large enough gap and reach for the extremities first”.

Anna Sewing Nut Smith

PRACTISE DRAWSTRINGS WITH OUR

laundry bag

If you’re looking for a clever gift idea to store delicates discreetly, try this project by Chris Lawton.

The bag is easy to construct and will allow you to try a drawstring fastening, before using up scraps of lace to create a fun design on the front!

Get started • Cream cotton or linen • Pink lace scraps • 1cm-wide black ribbon, 1m • Narrow black ribbon • Water-soluble marker • Fray check

Sizes 32cm x 42cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

Make a bra & knickers bag

1

Cut one 35cm x 88cm rectangle of cream cotton or linen fabric, then fold under 1.5cm along each long edge and press. Fold the fabric panel in half widthwise, wrong sides together, so it measures 35cm x 44cm, then press.

Sew along the long edge, stopping 4cm from the end, then fasten off. Leave a 2cm gap, then stitch the remaining 2cm. Repeat for the other side.

Fold the 2cm over around the whole bag to the wrong side and pin in place.

Topstitch inside the bag to create a channel, press, then topstitch around the top folded edge on the outside, roughly 1mm-2mm from the edge. Use a safety pin or elastic

2 3

guide to thread 1cm-wide black ribbon through the channel, tying into a bow to gather.

Choose one side to be the front, then arrange two narrow 8cm lengths of lace on it for each bra top, using fray check on any cut edges, and pin. Pin a wider

16cm length for the knickers top. Topstitch around each strip in a coordinating thread, close to the edge.

Use a water-soluble marker to trace straps above the narrow lace strips and cups below them, then a knicker shape below the

4

5

wider strip. If you prefer, download and print our template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates to draw around on the fabric. Use coordinating thread to zigzag stitch the shape, going back over the stitching for more definition if desired.

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sew LEARN

Here’s a method for stitchers of every skill level, depending on whether you want to stitch a strip on top or integrate the channel into your project

I’ve had a busy start to 2018, launching six new books this year – and working on two more for the next one! I almost always include a bag project, and one feature I use a lot is the drawstring because it’s easy to create, works well and looks great on all manner of projects. All you need to Don’t forget to backtack at each end of do is create a channel then thread cord, ribbon or elastic the stitching, as it through it to gather. Here are will be under a lot a few of my go-to methods. of stress

g

Debbie’s top tip

DRAWSTRING CHANNELS Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

USING BIAS BINDING

MAKING A FABRIC TUBE ENCLOSED CHANNELS

Cut a length of bias binding (or ribbon) to the width of your bag. Fold each end under by 1.5cm and press.

Cut 5cm-wide fabric to the width of your bag. Fold each end under by 1.5cm and sew. Fold it in half lengthways and press.

This quick and easy method looks great if you make your own binding or use pretty ribbon

Pin in place before constructing the bag, leaving the seam allowances free.

Topstitch along each long edge.

Adding a tube to the very top of a bag will affect the shape and can also be decorative

Sew to the top of your bag, right sides together. Repeat for the second piece, then sew the bag together.

After sewing the bag, use a safety pin or bodkin to thread ribbon, cord or elastic under the strip.

Turn the bag right sides out, then thread a length of ribbon through each tube.

One ribbon will gather the bag at one side, or two in opposite directions will draw the bag evenly.

Pull the ends of both ribbons to close.

Finish by tying each one into a bow.

More discreet and worth the extra effort.

Alternatively, create the channel with an extra-deep hem Sew the outer and lining at the top, then press the side seams open. Place the lining inside the outer.

Topstitch two parallel lines. Unpick the outer side seam between them.

Use a safety pin or bodkin to thread elastic through the channel and out the other side.

Sew the ends of the elastic together.

Push back into the channel and slip stitch the opening closed.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit debbieshore.tv 63

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LOTUS GARDEN Spring is a great opportunity to give your living space a makeover by introducing brighter shades and floral prints into the mix. If you’d prefer something a little different, take your design cue from the delicate artwork of traditional Chinese porcelain with dainty flora and fauna. For a look that’s pared back but still striking, seek out printed cottons and luxurious fabrics in rich shades of red and blue.

Bargain

Tiny Leaves in blue, £6.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

Montage, Japanese Garden collection, makoweruk.com for stockists

FABRIC BUY!

BRENDA HIGGS, HIGGS & HIGGS

MELISSA HYLAND, SEW DEPUTY EDITOR

“Featuring a charming design with very tiny blue leaves, this lovely fine-weave cotton poplin is very popular for quilting, quilt backs and patchwork projects. The fabric would also work for lightweight interior projects and lots of other crafts.”

VICKI HERRON, MINERVA CRAFTS

“Chinese satin brocade is a luxurious fabric with a delicate pattern that is woven in using multicoloured threads. I love its soft, subtle sheen and this would be perfect for cushions, seat covers and decorative items.”

Interplay Eclectic, InBlue collection, hantex.co.uk/agf for stockists

Bargain

FABRIC BUY!

Chinese blossom satin in kingfisher, £7.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

“This beautiful printed cotton harks back to the intricate designs found on traditional Japanese woodcuts, combining large peonies with more delicate blooms. It would look stunning alone, or when paired with similar prints in a quilt.”

KATARINA ROCCELLA, DESIGNER

“My InBlue collection for Art Gallery Fabrics was inspired by the early 17th century art styles that mimicked cobalt blue Chinese porcelain. The prints can be used to make striking quilts, cushions, bags and table runners to jazz up your home.”

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Create beautiful cushions and throws

Tie in the designs with your crockery

bivain.com

Combine reds and blues with white

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TRANSFORM YOUR FABRIC SCRAPS INTO A

patchwork pouffe If your stash is overflowing with offcuts in all kinds of colours and prints, this is the project for you! Corinne Bradd’s vibrant pouffe has an unusual pumpkin shape that is simple to achieve through patchwork panels, which you can assemble with any fabric pieces larger than a bank card. Before you start, locate a long doll maker’s needle for sewing on the buttons.

Get started • Cotton fabric scraps • 2oz quilt wadding • Stuffing • Two large buttons • Doll maker’s needle

Size

Approx 30cm high x 50cm diameter 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a seat

1

Download and print the pouffe template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then assemble the two pieces where indicated.

Arrange some straight-edged cotton patches to form a panel that is larger than the template, using a mixture of squares, rectangles, triangles and other shapes. Sew the patches right sides together, then press.

2

Lay the patchwork right side up onto quilt wadding. Pin the template on top and use to cut out both layers. Remove the template, re-pin the layers and topstitch together along the seam lines to strengthen the patchwork.

Make five more panels in the same way using a variety of colours, prints and sizes.

Stitch the panels right sides together along the long edges to make a ball shape, leaving a 20cm gap in the centre of one seam. Turn the shape right sides out and stuff to the point of overstuffing. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip stitch it closed with doubled thread to strengthen.

Use a long doll maker’s needle and strong thread to stitch a button to the top and bottom of the pouffe where the panels meet. Run the thread from button to button, pulling taut as you do so to draw the ends of the pouffe towards the middle, forming a pumpkin shape.

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4

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sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

the

Wild Bloom collection, visit hantex.co.uk /agf

FABRIC EDIT Our nesting instincts are kicking in with thoughts of vibrant home projects ready for spring. Wild Bloom by Art Gallery Fabrics fits the bill perfectly, featuring bold floral prints and geometric line patterns in a rainbow of zingy shades.

Mix and match your favourite designs, or combine them all for a showstopping make such as our patchwork pouffe opposite.

Everlasting Blooms Citrus

Cath Kidston leaf print backpack, £55, cathkidston.com

Herringbone throw in cerise pink, £65, annabeljames.co.uk

Cross & Stitch Raspberry

Lively Rosebuds Burst

Portmeirion Botanique jug, £19, jdwilliams .co.uk

Corsage Charm Aqua

Orla Kiely cushion in persimmon, £40, amara.com

Floral jacquard throw, £55, oliverbonas.com

Sashiko Florette Teal

Elysian Paradise cushion in yellow, £110, amara.com

Paloma dipped tea light holder in sea green, £4.95, dotcomgiftshop.com Still Life Crisp

Visit hantex.co.uk/agf to find your nearest Art Gallery Fabrics stockist.

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Magnolia Study Zest

sew gifts

FOUR WAYS WITH

Liberty

English Garden Get started • Cotton: assorted prints, plain blue and white • Grey wool tweed • Stretched framed canvas, 40cm x 50cm • Upholstery leather strip, 10cm x 42.5cm, or old belt • Felt wadding • Stuffing • 2cm-wide satin ribbon • 12 silver shanked buttons, 2.5cm diameter • Grey embroidery thread • Two small round black beads • Double-sided tape • Staple gun

The launch of a new fabric collection is always cause for celebration – and when it’s from Liberty, a national holiday! The English Garden range combines the famous floral designs of the 1900s with contemporary motifs in scrumptious shades of pink, lavender and blue, then pops of yellow and green. Sew’s Corinne Bradd has been busy using these to create the most delightful projects – whip up a chic scarf, crossover bag, pretty pin board and a cute vintage-style rabbit!

Share photos of your makes with us on @sewhq

To find your nearest Liberty stockist, visit eqsuk.com 69

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Use old cotton sheets t for the scarf back – jus an cle are y ensure the and not worn thin!

Turn a framed canvas into a patchwork noticeboard

Sew a stylish scarf

Make a pin board

Size: 23cm x 157cm

Size: 40cm x 50cm

1

1

Take six different cotton prints and cut two 14cm x 24cm rectangles from each one. Press, then arrange the pieces in a repeating pattern with the long sides touching.

Stitch the pieces right sides together, finger pressing the seam towards the darker print and topstitching 2mm from the join to keep it flat. Press the entire panel.

Measure the scarf and cut a piece of white cotton the same size. Pin the two panels right sides together and sew around the edges, leaving a 10cm gap in the centre of one long side.

Clip the corners and turn the scarf right sides out. Topstitch the seams 2mm from the edge, folding in the raw edges of the gap and closing it as you sew.

Cut five 10cm squares each from six different prints and arrange them in a 5x6 grid. Sew them right sides together in pairs, then sew the pairs together to form blocks of four (you will have three spare pairs that will need to be added to the end of three of the blocks).

Join these to form a panel, then press.

Pin and topstitch the patchwork panel to a piece of felt wadding, then topstitch along the seams in a coordinating thread. Trim the wadding to the same size as the patchwork, then zigzag the layers together.

Lay the quilted panel over a framed canvas and secure with a little double-sided tape at the corners. Flip the canvas over and staple the fabric to the back, starting in the centre of each side and working outwards in both directions, pulling the fabric taut but not overly tight as you go. Mitre

2

2

3

4

3

Stitch this scarf in your desired length to wear in your favourite way!

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the corners of the panel neatly (see the panel, below) and staple in place.

Cut lengths of satin ribbon to fit across the board and lay them diagonally across the front in line with the corners of the squares. Staple the ends of the ribbon behind the canvas.

Use strong thread to sew shanked buttons at the intersections of the ribbons through all of the layers.

4

Mitring the corners To mitre the corners of the patchwork panel after stapling the sides, pull one of them over the corner of the canvas to the wrong side. Staple it in place, then fold over the loose fabric either side on top of this and secure with more staples. Repeat for the other three corners.

sew gifts Thanks to Linda Mays Browning for helping us name our mascot!

Help us with suggestions for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stitch an origami bag

Create Hattie the Hare

Size: 22cm x 28cm

Size: 9cm x 18cm

1

Download and print the bag template at sewmag. co.uk/templates, joining the two template pieces along the dashed line. Use the template to cut two bag pieces from a printed cotton, then another two with the template reversed from another print.

Cut another two pairs from plain blue cotton for the lining.

Pair up one of each print and sew right sides together along the long straight edge. Repeat for the other printed pair, and then for all the lining pieces.

Place a lining panel right sides together with a patterned panel. Stitch along the diagonal sides and across the top, leaving the bottom edge open. Clip the corners, turn right sides out and press. Repeat for the remaining patterned and lining panels.

Fold the sections in half along the centre seam line and pin one inside the other to make a crossover bag. Tack and zigzag along the bottom raw edge through all layers. Trim the seam and turn the bag lining side out. French seam the bottom of the bag

2 3

1

and turn right side out.

Cut a piece of leather into 5cm wide strips, glue end-to-end with a 2cm overlap and topstitch the join – or trim an old wide belt to 85cm long. Snip the ends of the strap into points, lightly glue them to the top flat edges of the bag and topstitch.

Cut six 3cm diameter circles from leather and punch a hole centrally in each. Push a shanked button into each hole and hand-sew three to each side of the bag along the diagonal line to hold the seam together.

Download and print the bunny templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Cut out the pieces from tweed fabric except for the foot soles and inner ears, which are cut from printed cotton. Pair up a tweed and cotton ear and sew right sides together, leaving the bottom edge open. Clip the curves, turn right sides out, fold in 5mm along the bottom and topstitch around the shape, 2mm in from the edge. Repeat for the second ear.

Sew the arms right sides together in pairs, leaving a 4cm gap along one straight edge. Clip the curves, turn right sides out and stuff. Tuck in the raw edges of the gap on each arm and slip stitch closed.

Sew the legs right sides together in pairs, from the toe up to the top of the leg. Tack the cotton soles to the base of the foot then stitch, easing the tweed around the curves. Finish sewing the back seam of the leg, leaving a gap in the centre. Clip the curves, turn right sides out and stuff.

Slip stitch the gap closed on each leg, as for the arms.

4 5

2

Core skill:

3

FRENCH SEAMS

Place two fabrics wrong sides together, sew a narrow seam, then turn the piece wrong sides out, roll the stitch line to the edge, then sew with a slightly wider seam allowance.

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4

Sew each side of the body gusset to the body fronts, right sides together, leaving a 4cm gap in the centre of one seam. Sew the body fronts right sides together, clip the curves and turn right sides out through the gap. Stuff firmly, then slip stitch the gap closed.

Pin and securely handsew the limbs to the sides of the body in a cross pattern so they can move. Pin and slip stitch the folded bottoms of the ears to the gusset seams at the top of the head. Sew black beads to the gusset seams further down the head for eyes, then embroider a satin stitch nose in grey embroidery thread. Cut a 2cm x 47cm strip of printed cotton, fray the edges and tie into a bow around the bunny’s neck.

5

““If giving this toy to a very young child, omit the beads and embroider the eyes instead.”

Corinne Bradd, sew designer

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the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month BEST OF QUILTED BAGS by Leisure Arts Try your hand at new patchwork and quilting techniques, then apply what you've learnt to nine great designs by Kristine Poor and Sue Marsh, from totes and mini bags through to striped backpacks and monogrammed shoppers. This guide is full of handy tips for making the projects work with the fabric you have to hand, and on achieving a professional finish.

Leisure Arts Inc, £11.99, thegmcgroup.com

WELL-CRAFTED HOME by Janet Crowther Editor’s A We don't often feature books that aren't solely sewing-focussed pick – so you know they're good when we do. Stitchy projects include

linen bedding, a planter cover and pillows, but this is also a great opportunity to turn your crafting skills to woodwork, dyeing and claywork - to name but a few. With 60 projects to choose from, you'll have a whole new home decor scheme in no time!

Clarkson Potter, £19.99, amazon.co.uk

QUILT AS-YOU-GO MADE VINTAGE by Jera Brandvig Another smash hit from a best-selling author, this easy-to-follow tome of nostalgic designs is packed with photos and diagrams to help even beginners sail through the nine projects – plus 51 blocks that can be mixed and matched to create your own. As well as traditional methods, it also teaches a brand new joining technique that makes beautiful reversible quilts, C&T Publishing, £18.99, searchpress.com

SEWING MACHINE MAGIC by Steffani Lincecum Familiarising yourself with how your sewing machine works – and what makes it tick – means that you can enjoy a smoother sewing experience all round, like knowing exactly what to tweak to achieve professional stitches and how to cope should anything go wrong. Here, you'll find intel on everything from managing needles and thread to making use of specialised tools, which will work wonders for even the most basic sewing machine models.

Creative Publishing International. £14.99, quartoknows.com

PIECE AND QUILT WITH PRECUTS by Christa Watson It really doesn't get much better than 11 stunning quilt designs that are all made with jelly rolls, charm packs, bundles and scraps. This is one of the most approachable guides to quilting we've seen, with concise instructions and tips that will take you from complete beginner to seasoned quilter, helping you build a love for the craft along the way.

Martingale & Company, £22.99, amazon.co.uk

SEWN ANIMAL HEADS by Vanessa Mooncie Do you dream of having walls adorned with trophy heads, without harming animals in the process? Create 15 lifelike textile treasures by following detailed yet straightforward step-by-step illustrated instructions – projects include everything from the traditional elephant, rhino and croc to the more unusual cat, giraffe and even unicorn.

Guild of Master Craftsman Publishing, £14.99, thegmcgroup.com

Skill-building, knowledgesharing, inspiring books!

THE SAVVY SEAMSTRESS by Nicole Mallalieu Sew smarter by knowing all the tips, tricks and secrets of the professionals for making alterations and adjustments to designs. Add or change pockets, closures, yokes and collars to those sewing patterns that are almost perfect, or change the waist and neckline of a garment to fit and suit you. The industry methods shared here will have you creating professional pieces in no time at all!

C&T Publishing, £24.99, searchpress.com

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Get started • Felt: purple, blue, dark and light red, white, black, beige, turquoise and pink • Embroidery thread

Sizes 9.5cm tall (adjustable with)

sew

free template download

TURN FELT INTO THREE ADORABLE

sew gifts

woodland cup cosies

Gear up for the return of spring by whipping up Corinne Bradd's cute badger, cat and red panda appliqué coffee cup sleeves. These practical yet pretty beginner-friendly felt projects would make a great gift for the coffee lover in your life – they won't forget their reusable cup with one of these on them! It's also a good chance to practise hand stitching whilst using up scraps.

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stitch a cup character

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide (see template). Adjust the width of the cosy to fit your cup if necessary, then arrange the facial features centrally on the wrap for each creature. Pin in place.

Oversew through all layers using two strands of coordinating embroidery thread, pulling it taut to create a quilted effect. Where the badger's

2

and red panda's ears overlap the top of the wrap, work blanket stitch. Embroider the facial details.

Work a small, taut blanket stitch along the top and bottom of each wrap to prevent it distorting with use.

Fold the wrap in half, wrong sides together, then oversew the back seam.

3

Make it last Hand wash your wrap in warm water and leave to dry on the beaker so it keeps shape

ONLINE STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO Need a little extra help? Sew designer Corinne Bradd takes you through every step of the way! youtube.com/thecraftschannel

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SPELL OUT A WELCOMING PHRASE WITH

piped letter cushions

Get started • Four patterned fat quarters • Piping, four 1.6m lengths • Stuffing

Size 14cm x 19cm

Cutting guide Letters: cut one pair of each

Cushion middles: cut three 6cm x 56cm strips from each print

Stitch a message

1

Download and print the cushion templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Designate a fat quarter to each letter, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide.

Sew each set of three matching strips right sides together at the short edges to create one single length, then press the seams open.

2

Place a fabric ‘H’ right side up, then pin a length of piping around the edge, matching the raw edges and leaving 5cm extra at the end.

Make small snips in the piping edging to ease it around the corners, then join the ends together (see Core Skills panel).

Tack everything in place and remove the pins. Repeat for the second ‘H’.

3D letters are a popular home decor trend, so why not create your own stitchy version? These cushions will allow you to practise attaching piping to form professionally finished edges, as well as mixing and matching your fabrics and cords to create your own look. You could also use the templates as a starting point to create your own letters, spelling out phrases such as ‘LOVE’, ‘PEACE’, or anything else you like.

3

Starting at the same point of the piping join, pin one side of the matching fabric strip to the piped edge of an ‘H’, leaving 2cm extra at the start and clipping the corners. When you reach the point where you started, pin the strip to the 2cm overhang. Trim the excess from this join before tacking all the way round.

4

Attach an invisable zipper foot to your sewing machine. Stitch through all three layers as close to the piping as possible without going through the cord. Remove the tacking and lay the other ‘H’ on top. Pin together, starting in the middle of the letter and working outwards. Stitch these three layers together but leave 6cm open at the same point as the

previous joins. Turn right sides out, fill with stuffing and use a knitting needle to gently push it into the corners. Slip stitch the gap closed.

5

Make up the ‘M’ and ‘E’ in the same way. Start the ‘O’ with the same technique but only stitch the front and back letters around the outside of the letter, leaving the small middle ‘O’ entirely unstitched. Turn right sides out through this middle circle. Working on the back of the letter, neatly hem both the raw edge of the ‘O’ and the middle strip. Bring these hems together and use plenty of pins to secure. Slip stitch the edges together and leave a 6cm opening. Fill with stuffing and slip stitch the gap closed.

Core skill: JOINING PIPING ENDS

After sewing the piping to a letter, overlap the two ends by 5cm.

Unpick the binding around the piping to release the cord. Cut the ends of the fabric diagonally, pin, then stitch together to make an invisible join. Lay the piping cord back into the bias strip, trimming away any excess so that the ends meet neatly. Stitch the binding up to seal the cord back inside its cover.

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21/12/2017 11:43

enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways FOX IN THE WOOD

Rarely do we see a range so well-suited to both dressmaking and home projects as the new fabric collection from Crafter’s Companion. Fox in the Wood features nine complementing fabric designs with hints of silver and gold foiling on 100% cotton. This prize, worth £41, includes a six-piece fat quarter bundle and coordinating thread pack. Visit crafterscompanion.co.uk We have four sets to give away. To enter, tick FOX IN THE WOOD

25 m to win!

25 to win! m

4 to win!

TRUST VLIESELINE

Win your stash!

Now that we’ve (hopefully) seen the last of the winter weather, we can start looking towards spring for our outfit inspiration. We’ve put together a lovely bundle of different fabric types in a wearable range of brown and green shades that are sure to warm you and your wardrobe’s hearts.

We have one bundle to give away.

To enter, tick FABRICS

For many stitchers, the brand name Vlieseline is the term they know interfacing by. The company is so pleased it’s catching on and have switched from using the name Vilene on some products to Vlieseline for everything!

We’re giving each of our five winners a metre of five different fusible interlinings, suitable for all the fabrics in your stash! You can shop all Vlieseline products at ladysewandsew.co.uk We have five bundles to give away. To enter, tick VLIESELINE

WIN

Worth

£100!

with sew

£1,250+

of prizes to be won!

Sewing 101

Scissors and thread are arguably the most important components in any stitcher’s kit, so make sure yours are always good quality. You’ll love Clover’s 17cm Ultimate Bordeaux Scissors with soft handles and sharp, sleek blades, plus Gütermann’s 12-pack of variegated threads in a choice of three colourways. For stockist information, send an email to clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk and gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have three bundles to give away. To enter, tick SEWING 101

The

Crafty books

Worth

£70!

24 to win!

Search Press’ craft books have been incredible so far this year and now you can win the Sew team’s favourites! We’re giving away Sew Baby by Debbie Shore, Love to Sew: Lagom-Style Accessories by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Hoop Art by Cristin Morgan and Sew Cute Creatures by Mariska VosBolman – all you need to do is choose your favourite! Visit searchpress.com We have six of each book to give away. To enter, tick the name of the book you’d like!

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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways DRAGONFLY BUNDLE

Dragonfly Fabrics offer a huge range of beautiful fabrics, sewing patterns and haberdashery goodies. One lucky reader will win the fabric bundle pictured below, which includes a whopping six metres of material in varying lengths, including boiled wool and an Art Gallery jersey. Browse the range at dragonflyfabrics.co.uk We have one bundle to give away.

To enter, tick DRAGONFLY

Worth

£95!

+

Lemon Tree Patchwork Cat

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk /giveaways to win big today!

Promising hours of creative fun, this kit from Tilda includes all the fabric and thread you’ll need to create a 61cm tall patchwork cat. It’s made with the new Lemon Tree cotton fabric collection, which features beautiful birds of paradise plus floral and geometric patterns on a palette of vibrant colours. For stockists, contact groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have five kits to give away. To enter, tick LEMONTREE

Worth

£30!

Keep your knickers on!

We’re big fans of Flo-Jo sewing kits and thrilled to be sharing them with you! Here, you’ll get the pattern and fabric to stitch up either a pair of underwear or an apron – perfect to give as a gift or keep for yourself. The projects are all beginner-friendly but have optional variations that will take them up a notch if you wish. Shop the range at flo-jofabrics.co.uk We have three kits to give away. To enter, tick FLO-JO

3 to win!

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 21.02.18 Mark your envelope: Sew February Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

DRAGONFLY FABRICS FLO-JO FOX IN THE WOOD HOOP ART

LAGOM-STYLE

SEW CUTE

ACCESSORIES

CREATURES

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other..............................................................................

LEMON TREE

VLIESELINE

Name......................................................................................................................

SEWING 101

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**SHOP LOCAL FEBRUARY 18 master_SEW SATURDAY 21/12/2017 11:49 Page 80

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Open MondaySaturday 9am-5pm

01670 457150

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UNIT 3, WARKWORTH DRIVE, ELLINGTON, NE61 5HL

FABRICS AND HABERDASHERY SEWING MACHINES AND SERVICE SEWING LESSONS ALTERATIONS AND DRESSMAKING

12 High Street, Eccleshall, Stafford ST21 6BZ

New Range of Batik Fabrics

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57 High Street, Taunton, TA1 3PT Phone: 01823 762789 Email: info@andsewtoknit.co.uk www.andsewtoknit.co.uk

SOUTH YORKSHIRE Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium

Tel: 07495 012546 Email: info@bugweeds.co.uk

www.bugweeds.co.uk Follow us on Facebook: @bugweeds

NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

Tel: 0115 9881550 E: info@colessewingcentre.co.uk

Sun/Mon Closed, Tue/Wed/Thu 9am-6pm Fri 9am-1pm & Sat 9am-2pm

www.fromragstostitches.co.uk hello@fromragstostitches.co.uk 80-82 Watling Street, Wilnecote, 85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham S66 7BL

Tamworth B77 5BJ

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

SEW MUCH TO DO

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90 Lower Parliament Street, Nottingham NG1 1EH

Our Inspirational Fabrics & Yarns will feed your creativity for years to come.

Visit our store and ask us for your loyalty scheme card.

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www.colessewingcentre.co.uk

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thecraftyewescabin

Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops m We’ ov ve ed !

Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.

630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield S7 2BA Tel: 0114 258 3763 Email: patchworkgarden@hotmail.com www.thepatchworkgarden.co.uk

Fabric, Haberdashery - Workshops - Yarn Sewing Machines & Overlockers Ely 7 High Street Passage, Ely, CB7 4NB Tel: 01353 664000 Email: ely@sewmuchtodo.co.uk

Bury St. Edmunds 23 Hatter Street, Bury St. Edmunds, IP33 1NE Tel: 01284 755459 Email: bury@sewmuchtodo.co.uk

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your

SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-towear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

HIGH BUST FULL BUST

WAIST Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2017 All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

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Find this pleat front dress pattern for FREE at sewmag.co.uk

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitted garment?

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting.

This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate different dress sizes.

Cut accordingly to yours.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern, where you can make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Match the lines together when stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric as you position your pieces.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate the position for placement on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“Pressing is the key to successful pleats. Tack them on the right side of the fabric, 2mm from the folded edge, then press into position with steam through a silk organza pressing cloth. On the wrong side, position strips of printer paper under the folds of the fabric and press again.

The paper will prevent an impression forming on the right side of your fabric.”

MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

PLACING YOUR PIECES

With the printed pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. The tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching. It also allows you to adjust the placement if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

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UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the

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warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabrics first.

This means that you will know how the fabric reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press the material with an iron using a suitable heat setting. Lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

READING A PATTERN

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.

WARP WEFT

**ALL SEWN UP classified FEB 18_ALL SEWN UP 21/12/2017 12:00 Page 86

directory FABRICS & SEWING MACHINES

PATTERNS

www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra

tel: 01425 461444

419 Barlow Moor Rd Chorlton Manchester M21 8ER MANCHESTER Tel: 0161 881 7960

BIRMINGHAM

1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102

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Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more!

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Go online to find your local store on our map!

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk Willoughby Street, Beeston, Nottingham NG9 2LT 07966 515619 info@mikebarnes-trimmings.co.uk www.sewingboxbeeston.co.uk

To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com DIGITAL EDITIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON THE APPLE AND KINDLE NEWSTAND *PLEASE NOTE, DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS WILL NOT INCLUDE SUBSCRIPTIONS GIFTS NOR COVER MOUNTED GIFTS.

Dragonfly Fabrics Modern Dressmaking Fabrics Mayfield, Near Tunbridge Wells.

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Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

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And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

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TOPof the CLASS From dresses to underwear, these workshops have you covered!

Brighten up the grey and cold months by learning a new skill in one of these great workshops. If you’re new to dressmaking, starting small with a baby’s or little girl’s frock is a great way to get going. You can then go on to try your hand at sewing a shirt or shirt dress, then for something completely different, why not have a go at making your own lingerie? We promise it’s a lot easier than you might think!

Sew Your Own Shirt or Shirt Dress Tilly and the Buttons, online

Structured Bra Making London College of Fashion, London

Beginners – Baby & Girls Frida Dress Guthrie and Ghani, Moseley

If you’ve never sewn a shirt before or want to brush up your skills, this online video class will help. Sewing expert Tilly Walnes guides you every step of the way using her own Rosa pattern, which is included in the fee (£45 inc.

PDF pattern, £55 inc. paper pattern). The online format gives you a front row seat whenever it suits, plus you can re-watch the lessons as many times as you like. Sign up for the workshops at tillyandthebuttonsworkshops.com

This five-day course will demystify bra-making as you learn how to accurately cut out and construct a series of structured designs. The garments you’ll make include a non-wired full-cup bra, an under-wired padded version and a non-padded darted style. The next available course takes place from 9th to 13th April, 10am-5pm, and costs £575. For additional dates and to see the college’s full range of lingerie short courses, visit arts.ac.uk/fashion

Making a pretty dress for the little girl in your life is a great way to master simple garment construction. Using the popular Frida dress pattern from Two Stitches, you will learn how to create pleats at the neckline, sew an A-line skirt shape, and add a small button and loop fastening. Priced £65, the next available workshop date is 11th February. Visit guthrie-ghani.co.uk for more details and workshop dates, or call 0121 449 8419.

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PRETTY IDEAS & UPDATES

FIND ALL YOU NEED TO ENJOY SEWING!

PLUS!

❤ Celebrate the heritage skills that are passed on through generations. ❤ Fabric fever… explore voile, knits, leather and other exciting materials! ❤ Vintage sewing special! Projects, tips and inspiration galore. ❤ Get confident with handling delicate fabrics.

DIY PATTERN PENCIL SKIRT

YAY, OUR MARCH ISSUE HITS THE SHOPS ON 8th FEBRUARY! 89

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Choker, £25, debenhams.com

Jacques Azagury Ice Blue Chiffon dress, added to the Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibition at Kensington Palace, August 2017.

Diana didn’t follow trends avidly, but everybody wanted to dress like her.

REX/Shutterstock

hutterstock Nils Jorgensen/REX/S

Nima shell and disc necklace, £29, east.co.uk

When getting out of a car, a clutch bag protected Diana’s modesty. She also carried one on her wedding day. £75, dune.co.uk

STYLE ICONS

The Princess was known for her kind nature and humanitarian work.

PRINCESS DIANA

Clothes can be bought but, as The People’s Princess showed, style is developed Words by Jennifer Ward

It often takes years for a person to develop their style and form their own. For Diana,

Princess of Wales, the first non-royal to marry into the British monarchy in 300 years, this evolution unfolded in the most unlikely of circumstances. Marrying Prince Charles at 20, Diana became one of the most photographed women in the world – her charm enchanted people across the globe, who instantly fell in love with her sweet and endearing nature.

Eleri Lynn, the curator of Kensington Palace’s current Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibition, explains to Sew that this was an unusual situation for a woman of her age to be in. “Every fashion choice she made was closely scrutinised,” Eleri says. “She had to quickly learn the rules of diplomatic dressing.”

The public first met Diana as a jumperclad young lady, unaware of fashion and – according to Vogue’s former deputy editor Anna Harvey, who was her stylist for 16 years – with only a few sweaters and blouses in her possession. British couturier Victor Eldelstein, best-known for his work with the Princess, remembers how she moved away from this fresh-faced stage – what he called ‘little girl’s clothes, made bigger’ – to a more elegant and demure look. “Her style became more sophisticated, sleek and grown up,” he says. With Anna Harvey on hand to help Diana forge links with British designers – who would all come to influence her aesthetic

– she started experimenting with clothing, developing strong opinions on them, and making her own decisions on what she would wear.

According to Anna, the Princess made a conscious decision ‘to dispense with formality’ very early on; she wasn’t afraid to break rules, and this often meant disregarding the modest dress favoured by the royal family – regardless of any disapproval. Instead, Diana embraced more glamorous styles, earning the nickname ‘Dynasty Di’ because of her wide-shouldered gowns and nods towards power dressing. “In the early 80s, the look was quite complicated – there were lots of frills and ruffles,” Eleri explains. Diana even broke records as the first female royal to wear trousers to an evening do – surprising the world by wearing tuxedos that teetered on androgynous.

Perhaps the truest sign of a style icon, anything that she wore sold out. “Everybody wanted to look like Princess Diana,” British fashion designer Elizabeth Emanuel recalls.

“She would wear a pair of tights that had a bow on the back, and suddenly they were everywhere.

She did a huge amount for British fashion.”

The Princess’ wardrobe saw a notable change after she divorced Charles, yet it was just as, if not more, stylish – and one that meant business. “She decided she wanted to be known as a workhorse rather than a clotheshorse, and so she deliberately started to dress down,” Eleri explains. “Catherine Walker helped her to create a capsule wardrobe of very simple suits and shift dresses that the Princess became known for.”

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According to Anna Harvey, Diana was eager to be taken more seriously. Ultimately, she was aware of how she was perceived and that she could communicate through her fashion choices – using this to her strengths – but also letting causes that were important to her take centre stage. Diana let her charity work speak even louder by opting for more discreet outfits – wearing a simple navy dress when she famously shook hands with an AIDS patient in 1987 to challenge incorrect beliefs, then choosing cropped trousers and a sleeveless blouse when working with children injured by landmines in Angola.

As a woman who was hounded by the paparazzi, Diana took back control by ensuring that style – whilst nothing wrong with having or enjoying it – did not define her.

By constantly surprising, the Princess could never be predicted or pigeon-holed. Diana was and continues to be a style icon, and whilst much more besides, that isn’t to dismiss that she was partly an icon because of her brave choices, one-of-a-kind nature, and just like she desired, because she was very much ‘a queen in the hearts of the people’. Really, it can’t be put any better than Anna Harvey did... “She had sparkle. It was simply magnetic and, in the end, it transcended her clothes.”

For ticket information for Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibition, visit hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace

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