lgkixs by miazecevic

BUDGET IDEAS

3 QUICK & EASY HALF-YARD MAKES UK SIZES 8-20

16PROJECTS , Y O U R WAY E L Y T S R U O Y SEWING

step-by-step

for a handmade Christmas

Perfect Christmas Day dress YOUR COMPLETE PARTY OUTFIT

BAG-MAKING TIPS

STYLISH LAPTOP CASE

Kids’ cosy hat & mittens GREAT GIFT IDEAS

PLUS! SN15.P01 v2.indd 1

ISSUE 15 UK £5.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk

from Debbie von Grabler-Crozier

Quick swing-sleeve blouse

LEARN TO SEW WAISTBANDS & ZIPS 31/10/2017 15:11

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WELCOME

Hello

With the winter weather well and truly upon us it’s the perfect excuse to get out your sewing machine and put the dark nights to good use with a little sel�ess or sel�sh sewing. On the sel�sh side, one of the things I love to sew is a ‘solid separate’ – a pattern that can be totally transformed by clever choice of fabric and this month’s free McCall's pleated skirt pattern (page 14) ticks every box. Great for winter with boots or in a crisp, luxury fabric with heels, this pattern will see you through the party season and beyond. On our photoshoot I fell in love with Julia Claridge’s Swing-sleeve blouse (page 26), which, although simple to sew, has an interesting layered construction resulting in the draped sleeve. Another quick addition to your wardrobe is the Classic tea dress (page 54). It is great for Christmas Day and would make a lovely present for a friend, if you’re feeling con�dent! This month our team has had fun putting together projects using fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics for our new Half Yard challenge feature. They’ve come up with a gorgeous gift trio including a Geo pencil case, Mistletoe laptop case and Pretty gift envelopes (page 42) – excellent makes for all the family!

And as Christmas becomes everyone’s main focus, we have lots of makes for the home, why not try our Cosy Christmas cushion (page 72) or Monochrome dinner set (page 82) which will add a touch of sparkle to your festive table setting? Or to add a touch of crafting to your Christmas-giving, sew a Stitchy Christmas card (page 66) or cross-stitch a Pudding present sack (page 32). As well as plenty of festive inspiration, we have new patterns, fabric and plenty of techniques to improve your sewing and help you make the most of those dark nights!

60 32

Happy sewing!

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk P.S. We love to see what you’ve been making so don’t forget to share your makes using #sewnowmag on social media.

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

We’d love to hear your thoughts about Sew Now. Find and follow us on: www.facebook.com/sewnowmag www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

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QUICK XMAS GIFT IDEA Look out for our quick Christmas makes – there’s still plenty of time for gift-making!

31/10/2017 15:57

INSIDE THIS ISSUE OF

GET YOUR NEXT 3 ISSUES FOR JUST £6 Turn to page 50 for details of how to subscribe!

42 REGULARS

FEATURES

6 10 29

NEWS What’s new in the world of sewing

SEWING START UP Elaine from Sewing Belle tells us how she made a success of her online pattern business

HOT OFF THE PRESS This month’s pattern round-up

PATTERN REVIEW Jenny Stitched sews up the perfect Melilot shirt

TEAM TALK Find out what’s on the Sew Now team’s radar Q&A We ask our favourite sewists about their �rst sewing project

READERS’ MAKES What you’ve been busy sewing this month

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new crafty friends www.facebook.com/sewnowmag

TUTORIALS

FOR THE LOVE OF CRAFT Sew Now regular Debbie von Grabler-Crozier lets us into her crafty world CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE Our selection of great gifts for someone special BACK-PAGE BLOGGER Blogger Highball Emy talks us through her eclectic sewing style

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

SKILL BUILDER Our resident seamstress Jeanette reveals all about sewing zips SUSTAINABLE TAILORING Jamie Kemp’s easy step-by-step tutorial for narrowing trouser legs PLEATED SKIRT WAIST FINISHES Free pattern tutorial for getting the best results on your waistband and facing

BEHIND THE SEAMS Your must-have guide to fabric, �nishes and interfacing MASTER YOUR MACHINE Find out what all the buttons and functions mean

www.instagram.com/sewnowmag

www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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31/10/2017 17:19

CONTENTS

MEET THE TEAM: Deputy Editor

Editor

Sam

Editorial Stylist Assistant

Bethany

Seamstress

25 Leanne

Jeanette

Art Editor

72 PROJECTS

Simon SKILL LEVEL GUIDE

FREE PLEATED SKIRT PATTERN Inspiration for your free pleated skirt pattern

TWIG POUCHES Sew a fab Advent calendar to hang on your tree

SWING-SLEEVE BLOUSE Stylish top with a great cover-up sleeve feature

32 42

INSPIRATION

WEAR IT WITH Make the most of your free pattern with our how-to-wear inspiration

PUDDING PRESENT SACK Fun cross-stitch adorned present sack

LITTLE TOWN GIFT TRIO Pencil case, laptop cover and pretty gift envelope in a modern festive print

CLASSIC TEA DRESS Add this classic garment to your winter wardrobe

ROAR! HOOD AND MITTENS SET Fun and furry, this hood and mittens set will keep out the cold!

STITCHY CHRISTMAS CARD Show o� your sewing skills to your loved ones

COSY CHRISTMAS CUSHION Bring a festive feel into your home with our an appliqué and patchwork cushion BABY CHANGING BAG Stay organised on the go with this compact changing bag

MONOCHROME DINNER SET Contemporary style sewn for your festive table

17 19

STYLE FILE Try the super-cute and very versatile Libellule pattern

41 49 57

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Fabric picks from suppliers in the know HOME STYLE INSPIRATION Opt for a pastel theme this Christmas

GET THE LOOK Beautiful drapey viscose fabric for everyday wear

Beginner

Intermediate

Adventurous beginner

Advanced

WINTER FABRIC What do you need to know before sewing with winter fabric

TOOL SHOPPING Explore the stunning new Love range of sewing tools from Prym

SHOP IT OR SEW IT Cosy jumper patterns and inspiration for the cold weather

EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS! 72 Enjoy our fantastic discounts and giveaways, including 20% o� all Prym Love products at Minerva Crafts 79 WIN a chic Fabworks fabric bundle

PLUS

GO TO PAGE 24 TO CLAIM YOUR FREE MCCALL’S 6-IN-1 TOP PATTERN (JUST PAY P&P) WWW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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GET SHIRTY Fun for the whole family!

Fancy sewing your own shirt but not sure where to start? Why not begin on a smaller scale with the new Buttoned-up Button-down boy’s shirt from Oliver + S? Designed for intermediate sewists, you can use light to medium-weight fabric such as cotton, denim or flannel to make a stylish shirt for a boy between the ages of two and 12. This wardrobe staple includes lots of the professional techniques you’ll want to mimic on a grownup shirt, such as flat-set sleeves, plackets and buttonholes. You can also practise pocket types too! See more at www.oliverands.com

O F F-T H E-WA L L A NIM A L S

Abby Glassenberg, star of the popular While She Naps crafty podcast, is back with more adorable animal projects for the whole family to enjoy. This time around, she’s bringing taxidermy into the 21st century thanks to a collection of fabulous felt projects. Felt Menagerie is a kit including templates, felt, embroidery floss, sewing needle, stuffing and mini head mounts, as well as a book of 10 easy-to-follow projects. It’s perfect for rainy afternoons! £16.99 from www.whilesehenaps.com

What’s new?

The patterns, events and sewing goodies on our radar this month

From desk to dinner WINTER BUNNIES How cute is this snuggly rabbit jersey fabric? The Autumn Bunny collection from German designer Lila Lotta would make a lovely kids' sweater, or treat yourself to a jersey dress or even a pair of chic cushions for the couch. Available in shades of blue, black, mustard and red, it boasts brightly coloured carrots interspersed between rabbits in jazzy festive jumpers. Available for £17 per metre on a 150cmwide roll from www.elephantinmyhandbag.com

Take your winter wardrobe to the next level with the brand-new Rivermont dress and top pattern from Cashmerette. It's ideal for all occasions – choose from a fitted sheath dress with slash pockets and kick pleat or a classic peplum top. Pick a sleeve length to suit you, just ensure you use knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. Available in UK sizes 16-32 and cup sizes C-H at $14 (approximately £10.69) for the PDF pattern and $18 (approximately £13.74) for the printed paper version. Visit www.cashmerette. com to take a closer look.

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NEWS

BEAUTIFUL BAUBLES To help you decorate the house this Christmas, we love these embroidery hoop tree baubles. Each kit comes with everything you need to either hand-sew or machineembroider your way to a stunning 10cm star decoration, complete with a ribbon and bow for hanging on a bare bough or the wall. Ideal for kids and adults, pick up yours for £12.95, from www. rachelandgeorge.co.uk

S UP PO RT YOU R LOC A L MA KERS

Christmas just wouldn’t be the same without going to markets, picking up unique gifts for friends and family and maybe even enjoying a cheeky mulled wine or two! You can show some love for crafters, artisans and handmade businesses this year by visiting one of the 2017 Etsy Made Local markets. They're held in over 40 locations across the country on the first weekend of December so you can enjoy shopping for festive gifts and treats from more than 2,000 sellers. Find your nearest event at www.etsy.wishpond.com/etsymadelocal-uk/

OA KSHOT T OPEN DAY

Oakshott Fabrics is a go-to for fabric lovers, its fat quarters and solids are a staple for quilting and home sewing especially. This December it will open up the warehouse to the public with a pop-up shop filled with rainbows of pre-cuts, fabulous fat quarters and signature shot cotton. Stock up your festive selection and plan those last-minute Christmas gifts. Don’t forget to look for discounted seconds and keep your eyes peeled for exclusive new releases. The open days take place Saturday 9th December 10am – 4pm and Sunday 10th December 10am – 1pm in Brockworth, Gloucester. Go to www.oakshottfabrics.com to discover more.

Clever kits Got a pattern in mind but not sure where to start when it comes to your materials list? Fear not, the new Fabrics Galore sewing kits have got you covered! Each one comes with a leading pattern, including all the fabric you need, plus any interfacing, matching thread and hardware required. We especially love the Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dungaree dress kit, which would look gorgeous paired with wool tights and polo neck for a chic and cosy autumn-winter look. Kit prices from £39 at www.fabricsgalore.co.uk

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31/10/2017 16:00

BIG UP BATIKS

OCTOBER

Every month, Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #wardrobebuilder challenge and what you’ve been making

Laura

When I set the schedule for the #wardrobebuilder project I included a vintage theme because I’m often inspired by other bloggers’ vintage makes – not necessarily because it’s a wardrobe staple Laura’s for me. There’s Amelie a huge variety Trousers to choose from when it comes to sewing vintage; originals, reproductions or modern patterns with vintage twists. The Melanie wearing whole range was uploaded to the her Gertie dress link up this month! Seamracer added a classic 1940s pinny dress, which was fabulously retro, and Bea used the pleated skirt pattern from In the Folds paired with carefully chosen fabric to create a stylish vintage look. I loved the way Melanie from the Flying Needle took a pattern from vintage queen Gertie Hirsch and added a contemporary slant with her hot pink crepe.

I enjoyed searching for original vintage patterns, but not the hefty price tags on the ones that I preferred! Luckily for me, October’s #wardrobebuilder partner was Til the Sun Goes Down; it specialises in original and reproduction patterns and fabric. If you want vintage, it has it! I used its Sprigs silk/cotton voile to make the Amelie Tuck Blouse pattern, from its Now & Then pattern collection. I’m so glad that this was my project because it �ts in well with my existing wardrobe and can be worn more often than some of my more specialty makes. It's exactly what I needed for a real #wardrobebuilder!

A subtle print can work wonders in home décor, and with a clean palette of white and navy, batiks allow you to easily introduce patterned elements into any room. The new Indigo Batik range from www.higgsandhiggs.com includes fun triangular, line and circular prints printed onto 100% quality cotton fabric and inspired by wax-resist batik patterns. They're suitable for everything from bedroom cushions to blouses, children’s clothes and patchwork. Available from £8.99 per metre.

Update your home décor

It’s a wrap! Your hand-sewn gifts are all �nished and what better way to make sure they stand out under the tree than with this amazing sewing wrapping paper? Each wrap comes with two sheets featuring original artwork from Becka Gri�n Illustration as well as two little gift tags. Pick up yours for £4.50 a pack from www.notonthehighstreet.com

This month also featured an interview with The Crafty Pinup, whose vintage styling I have long admired. She shared tips and talked about pairing vintage patterns with current fabric and highstreet trends. Check out her ‘Stitch by Stitch’ vlog for this gorgeous green 1960s coat if you fancy taking vintage through into November’s #wardrobebuilder project theme of Abi, aka The coats and jackets! Crafty Pinup To �nd out more about the challenge, this month’s brilliant giveaways and view the month-by-month themes, go to www.thepetitepassions.com. Don’t forget to share your makes online with the hashtag #wardrobebuilder 8

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Unlock your Meet the Singer 7465 Confidence ✼

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The world’s favourite sewing machines

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27/10/2017 10:42

Hot-off-the-press

PATTERNS

From capes to quick-make trousers, this month’s pattern picks will complete your autumn wardrobe CHIC CAPE Sew Over It

M7657 McCall’s

The Chic Cape will add a touch of glamour to any out�t and it’s a great way to learn to work with heavier fabric such as twill or wool. Simple in construction, the cape is fully lined and features armhole slits between the front and side seams. Selfcovered buttons disguise the press-stud closures and all the seams are encased in the lining, so no buttonholes and no �nishing! For those wanting to sew a simple coat this is an easy place to start.

The M7657 V-neck top is a style we’re set to see more of on the party circuit this winter. It’s the perfect elegant cover-up, and this version has princess seams, three sleeve options and a simple button-back closure. The easily adapted bodice has ru�e options and a variety of lengths. This pattern is ideal for beginners looking to stretch their construction skills.

Sizes 8-20 PDF pattern £7.50 www.sewoverit.co.uk

Sizes 6-14, 14-22 Paper pattern £9.25 www.sewdirect.com

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NEWS CHAI TEE Liesel + Co Taking the basic tee to new level, this simple-to-sew top from Liesel + Co features shoulder yokes and pleats for a stylish, feminine shape and cu�ed sleeves that can be folded or left unfolded as you wish. The top is ideal for an advanced beginner hoping to learn new techniques with jersey and has cups size A/B to D for a professional, but easy, �t.

6436 SKIRTS AND TROUSERS Simplicity From the new Simplicity collection come these easy, pullon skirts and trousers. With a narrow elasticated triple-cased waist and tie belt, the skirts come in three di�erent lengths – mini, midi and maxi – and the trousers are ankle length with slash pockets. Sewn in woven fabric, this pattern would be an ideal quick make for advanced beginners.

Sizes UK 8-20 Paper pattern £6.95 www.simplicitynewlook.com

Sizes UK 4-22 (US 0-20) Paper pattern £14.90 www.dragon�yfabrics.co.uk

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FAUNA TOP AND DRESS Pauline Alice This two-in-one pattern doubles up as a shortsleeved top and sleeveless dress. Both have princess seams at the front and back and lovely cinched waist ties with D ring to create a peplum feel to the top and accentuate the A-line skirt of the dress. The back fastening is a simple keyhole with hookand-eye closure. This pattern is great for an advanced beginner who’d like to try new construction techniques.

Sizes UK 4-22 (EUR 32-50) Paper pattern £17.50 www.backstitch.co.uk

AGATE PENCIL DRESS Named Clothing The Agate dress is a semi-�tted, kimonosleeved dress in a �attering midi length. To create its �tted style there’s an invisible side-seam zip as well as the clever addition of a zip to alter the length of the front vent. Also included in the pattern is a narrow buckle belt that could easily be used for other garments. We’d recommend this for an intermediate sewist or an advanced beginner looking to learn about �t. Sizes UK 4-18 (EUR 34-48) PDF pattern €8 (approximately £7.14) www.paulinealicepatterns.com

Photos: Arto Markkanen Model: Minna Kosonen Make-up and hair: Jannica Stelander

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Sew Amazing Offers Innov-is 1800Q Sewing and Quilting machine

• • • • • • • • • •

Large 8.3” (210 mm) work space to the right of the needle 234 built-in stitches, 10 styles of one step button holes 5 Styles of letting upper and lowercase ICAPS - Continuous Automatic Pressure System My Custom Stitch – design your own stitches SFDS – Square Feed Drive System Automatic thread cutter Combine and memorise stitches Pivot function Includes large wide table

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Sewing and embroidery machine

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£899

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Innov-is 27SE Sewing Machine

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Innov-is F420

A61 Woodseats Sewing Machines Ltd Sheffield S8 0RY Fabric Mouse Richmond DL10 7SN Gillies Fabrics York YO1 8SW Grimsby Sewing & Knitting Grimsby DN32 9DR Sewing Machines and Crafts Keighley BD21 1AD Brewers Sewing Machines Wolverhampton WV2 3AF Couling Sewing Machines Lincoln LN5 8AW Crafty Sew & So Leicester LE1 5DF Creative Hands 2 Worcester WR1 2LU DC Nutt Sewing Machines Walsall WS3 3SS GS UK Ltd Nottingham NG2 3DE Grain Sewing Machines Ltd Nottingham NG6 8UY L & M Nutt Sutton Coldfield B73 5BS The Lorna Knight Sewing Academy Leek ST13 7NX Sewing Machine Centre Shrewsbury SY1 1XJ Specialist Crafts Limited Leicester LE4 9HQ

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South East

Brighton Sewing Centre Brighton BN1 1YD British Sewing Centre Boreham Wood WD6 1FJ C & A Supply Co Ltd Cranleigh GU6 8NE CCB Sewing Machines Rochester ME1 1HS Dowlings Wickford SS11 8YJ Eastleigh Sewing Centre Eastleigh SO50 5LD Emporia Fabric & Craft Ashford TN24 8RY GTS Sewing Machines Banbury OX16 9PQ Lewisham & Deptford S/Mcs Ltd London SE8 3NT Maidstone Sewing Centre Maidstone ME14 1ED Regent Home of Sewing Ilford IG1 2AG Rona Sewing Machines Waltham Cross EN8 7AP Sew Devine Reading RG6 1JQ The Sewing Centre London SW11 3BP The Sewing Shop Canterbury CT1 2HX Sueco UK Portsmouth PO3 5BZ Stitched By You Alton GU34 1BN Tysew Southall UB1 3AF Wimbledon Sewing Machines Co. Ltd SW17 7AA Woking Sewing & K/M Centre Woking KT15 3NY The World of Sewing Orpington BR6 75Q The World of Sewing Tunbridge Wells TN1 2QP

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South West

And Sew to Knit Taunton TA1 1NZ Caffle Crafts Weston Super Mare BS24 6SE D & S Sewing Machines Newton Abbot TQ12 2BS Exeter Sewing Machine Company Exeter EX1 2LD Franklins Group Limited Salisbury SP2 7SU Sewcraft Swindon SN1 1SD The Sewing Studio Redruth TR15 2DB White Orchid Corfe Mullen BH21 3UX

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brothersewing.co.uk W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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YOUR

FREE PATTERN

Please

pleat me! This month’s free McCall’s skirt pattern is perfect for the festive season and beyond. Choose a waistband to suit your shape and enhance the skirt with a striking contrasting fabric band Photography RENATA STONYTE Models HEATHER & KAYLEIGH for BOSS Hair and make-up LAURA for CREATIVES

SEE PAGE 74 FOR ALISON SMITH’S WAISTBAND AND FACING TUTORIAL

Get the look Metallic leather clutch £49, www.johnlewis.com Floral woven metallic brocade dress fabric

Champagne Alesandra heels £70, www.johnlewis.com

This beautiful-quality woven brocade has gold detail. The metallic thread woven into the pattern make this fabric stand out from the crowd £8.99 per metre

www.minervacrafts.com

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31/10/2017 16:14

Mix and

match

Sew a knockout skirt and learn new skills along the way with our hints and tips for each version Pleated skirt with waistband

If you’re looking to try a new skill and an easy way to sew waistbands, consider waist-shaping interfacing from Vlieseline. Perforated with fold lines, this helps create a crisp edge for your waist fold. It is available in various widths.

Pleated skirt with faced waistband

The key to perfect box pleats is accurate markings on the fabric to guide you when folding and pressing. To make it easier you can mark on the right and wrong side of the fabric and press lightly on each pleat until you are happy, then press in place �rmly. Lots of pins will keep the pleat in place! This design gives you options to press the pleats to the hem or let them release towards the hem.

Pleated skirt with contrasting hem band

Make sure the main and contrasting fabric is of equal weight to help the structure of the skirt stay in shape – heavier contrasting fabric would pull the skirt down and loose the de�nition of the pleat.

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Crew-neck rib jumper £18, www.asos.com

Get the look

Jardin de Provence cotton lawn

This 140cm-wide floaty, high-quality cotton lawn features a ditsy floral design in lovely lavender £6 per metre

WHY NOT TRY A SHEER FABRIC FOR THE CONTRAST BAND FOR A FESTIVE LOOK?

Camera bag £25, www.asos.com

www.sewoverit.co.uk

Lavender poplin

The rich lavender weft threads are combined with light lilac warp threads to produce this lustrous high threadcount 100% cotton poplin with a cool, crisp feel £3 per metre

www.fabworks.co.uk

Heather is 5’ 8” and a dress size 10 and Kayleigh is 5’ 11” and a dress size 16

Wide-fit ballet flats £14, www.asos.com

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INSPIRATION

Wear it with... Get maximum wear from your free skirt pattern

Crescent rose buckle backpack £58, www.cathkidston.com

Double-faced scarf £25, www.houseoﬀraser.co.uk

PREPPY STYLE

Charlie cosy cardigan £55, www.monsoon.co.uk

Cream roll-neck jumper £36, www.wallis.co.uk

BOXING DAY Tan perforated ankle boots £24.99, www.deichmann.com

Nude croc-eﬀect brogues £44.99, www.deichmann.com

Stasia star velvet jacket £99, www.monsoon.co.uk

DRINKS PARTY

Blue leather gloves £22, www.johnlewis.com

OUTDOOR GLAMOUR

Gold drop earrings £10, www.debenhams.co.uk

Bobble hat £20, www.debenhams.co.uk

Gold glitter high heels £19.99, www.newlook.co.uk

Principles Ben De Lisi coat £99, www.debenhams.co.uk W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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clothbound makers of exquisite pressing tools

CHOOSE FROM A WIDE SELECTION OF HAMS TO SUIT YOUR SEWING NEEDS

CUSTOMERS ORDERS ALSO UNDERTAKEN

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www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk Fabric Patterns Workshops

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk 18

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ACCESSORY

STYLE

file

This month’s standout style we’d love to make or wear A pattern with a variety of options is always a bonus, and Libellule from French brand I AM Patterns can be sewn up as a top or dress in your regular size, or cleverly sewn as a short jacket or long coat if sewn in a size bigger, while the funnel neck and hidden button placket add unique details. The pattern will work well across the seasons; we’re imagining the jacket in a lightweight wool or gabardine and paired with jeans for a casual look.

I AM Patterns Libellule sizes UK 6-16, PDF pattern €12 (approximately £10.77) www.iampatterns.fr

Autumn brights

Bottle Green gaberchino £5.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com

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Grey and mustard mohair cotton blend £29.90 per metre, www.dragon�yfabrics.co.uk

Blue check wool-blend fabric £9.50 per metre, www.empressmills.co.uk

Red wool-rich baby boucle £8.99 per metre, www.abakhan.co.uk

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31/10/2017 16:16

INTERVIEW

Sewing start up This issue we chat to Elaine Bell, owner of Sewing Belle, to find out more about how she has turned her love of sewing into a successful online business

What prompted you to first set up your online business? I started the business in 2008 while studying for a degree in Fashion Knitwear and Knitted Textiles at Nottingham Trent University. I was prompted to start a business as my daughter Sophie was only 14 years old and I was at university studying all day, then teaching in the evenings. I began initially selling vintage textiles, knitting patterns, tablecloths and clothes on eBay. This allowed me to be more flexible with my working hours, and also be at home in the evenings.

Elaine enjoying a day out in her 1940s-style tea dress

Tell us a little bit about how you have developed the business from an eBay shop to where it is today The business has developed from selling vintage items in auctions on eBay. In 2010 I bought an overlocker at a local auction. I had not read the description of the lot very closely and with the overlocker came boxes and boxes of vintage sewing patterns. I listed these sewing patterns on eBay and they sold very well. I then started purchasing vintage sewing patterns and other vintage items from house clearances, car boots, auctions and antique fairs. This funded my way through my degree and then Masters degree – it was an amazing time.

Elaine raising a glass in her stunning Cocktail Hour dress

Three years on, I was selling new sewing patterns including Simplicity, New Look, Burda, Butterick, McCall’s, Vogue and Kwik Sew. I now only sell new items, including indie sewing patterns, quilting equipment, appliqué and some fabric on eBay, Amazon and www. sewingbelle.co.uk. We have our own premises which include an office and a fabulous hall, where we run workshops in dressmaking, crafts and sewing. Elaine and her daughter Lisa in homemade garments

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INTERVIEW

Elaine with her Sewing Belles showing o� their Cocktail Hour dresses at the recent party

How have customers’ tastes changed over the years? Customers still love vintage styles, it’s great that Simplicity, McCall’s and Butterick are producing the vintage patterns with today’s sizing. 'Buy it now' is the way forward with selling on eBay because people want to purchase items speedily and for them to arrive quickly.

time with Mr Bell and my two daughters. I like listening to 70s and 80s music and go to the music weekends at Butlins in Skegness �ve or six times a year. This, of course, involves sewing new fancy dresses each time! I also love going to vintage events, like 1940s weekends with my husband, which involves sewing more new dresses!

"Starting a business in an area you're passionate about is great"

You’re also well-known for hosting workshops, how do you think classes can help sewists build their skills? It can be really helpful to be around other enthusiastic sewists. Being shown the di�erent techniques can give people the con�dence to be more adventurous with their sewing.

Which patterns are proving most popular right now? Sewing patterns are doing well across the board, including craft patterns, kimonostyle jackets, simple dresses for jersey, and lingerie. The Simple Sew sewing pattern range also sells very well. What are your top tips for anyone looking to start an online business? Starting a business in an area you’re passionate about is great. Research is crucial. I do this by running my sewing group Sewing Belles every Wednesday and sewing at home. What do you like to get up to in your spare time? Do you still �nd time to sew? I enjoy walking my dog Cyril and spending

What are the best and most challenging things about working for yourself? The best is the peace and quiet of having your own o�ce with no commuting to work. I love having a big hall for the large sewing tables and machines, it’s fabulous. I also like being able to take the time to go to various sewing fairs and shows. The most challenging part is probably the long hours some days – I have been known to work through the night, packing to get orders posted on time. What’s been your proudest moment at Sewing Belle? I think I am most proud of the turnover of the business going from strength

Elaine sorting through her vast stock of patterns

to strength and developing it into a limited company. What have you got planned over the next few months? I’ve just been to visit the Butterick head o�ce which was very exciting and now I’m looking forward to a new programme of workshops, new products to be listed and a 70s weekend in November I need to prepare for!

Take a look at the online shop and �nd out more about Elaine’s upcoming workshops at www.sewingbelle.co.uk

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er d l i u b Skill

Sewing zips INTO GARMENTS WITH FACINGS Make sure your ﬁnish is thorough and professional with Jeanette's handy step-by-step tutorial

Basting stitch

Need-to-know facts What is the technique? Finishing a skirt waistband with a facing, when the skirt has a zip fastening. A

What can it be used for? Gives a neat �nish without adding a waistband.

What types of fabric does this technique work with? All fabric, except very �ne kinds like chi�on, georgette or lace where di�erent techniques are used. Which foot should you use? You’ll need a regular sewing machine foot, a regular zip foot for the regular zip and an invisible zip foot for the concealed zip. What are the common problems? Getting a smooth rather than bulky �nish. Do you need to make adjustments to your machine settings? No. Any tricks or tips that we need to know? Use your regular zip foot to stitch down the facing on the concealed zip, that way you will get a nice close �nish.

HOW TO SEW: REGULAR ZIP Neaten the raw edges of the seam.

1 2

Lay the zip against Regular zip foot the top of the seam and mark where the stopper is with a pin. Remove zip and, with a tacking stitch, sew the seam as far as the pin, switch to a regular stitch, reverse-stitch and continue the seam. Press seam open. (See pics A, B and C.)

Many machines already come with a zipper foot, but when buying a concealed zipper foot make sure it is compatible with your brand of machine

Pin zip in place with the zip coils on the seam. Using a regular zipper foot, stitch the zip into position; you will need to wriggle the zip pull to get past it and have a straight line of stitching. (See pics D and E.)

Jeanette

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TUTORIAL

Pin the facing into position, turning back the seam allowance at the zip. Stitch in position. (See Pic F.)

CONCEALED ZIP Neaten the raw edges of the seam.

Concealed

zipper foot Open the zip, place one side of the zip right sides together on the seam and pin in place. Use an invisible zipper foot to sew in place. Repeat for the other side of the zip, starting again at the top edge of the zip. (See pics G and H.)

Close the zip. Change from an invisible zipper foot to a regular zipper foot and, starting a couple of centimetres before the end of the zip, stitch down the remainder of the seam. Get as close as possible to the zip. You can do this by changing the needle position so it as far right as it will go. Press the seam open and then press lightly from the right side over the zip and the seam. (See pics I and J.)

Stitch the ends of the zip ribbon to the seam allowances to stop them ďż˝apping using the zipper foot. (See Pic K.)

With the zip open and the seam allowances opened out, pin the facing in place, then stitch.

Using the zipper foot stitch down the ends of the facing, sewing close to the zipper coils. (See Pic L.)

Trim and clip the seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the facing and under-stitch as far as possible, it may be diďż˝cult to get close to the ends where the zip is.

Turn the facing to the inside and press. Add a hook and eye if desired. (See pics M and N.)

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Claim your free

6-in-1 top pattern This classic top is a super versatile and simple staple and will soon become a favourite. There are six versions; choose from three di�erent sleeve lengths: capped, three quarter or long, and three bodice combinations. This top is great for beginner and intermediate sewists with an easy button closure and bias-bound neckline.

We’re o�ering this free to every Sew Now reader, just pay P&P* Go to www.craftstash.co.uk/ sn15readero�er

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* While stocks last. One per customer

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HOME

Make these little pouches to ﬁt any size gift you like; tying them to a twig gives a rustic look to this Advent calendar

Project DEBBIE SHORE

Twig pouches

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • 3 fat quarters contrasting cotton fabric • 11m twine, ribbon or cord (or all 3!) • 30.5cm square piece of calico • number stamps • black ink • 90cm twig • pinking shears FINISHED SIZE: Large: 11.5x13cm Small: 7.5x9cm CUTTING: From cotton fabric, cut: 2 13x15.25cm pieces for each large pouch 2 9x10cm pieces for each small pouch HOW TO MAKE: Cut the calico into 25 squares of 2.5cm, varying the sizes slightly. Fray the edges a little, then stamp a number in the centre of each. (See Pic A.) Use pinking shears to trim across the top, a short side, of each cotton piece. (See Pic B.)

Sew a numbered calico square onto the front piece of cotton,

2.5cm up from the bottom. Don’t worry about the patch being perfectly straight! (See Pic C.)

For each pouch, sew the two pieces right sides together across the bottom short side. (See Pic D.) With the pieces right sides together, fold the seamed edge up between the two layers by 1cm and pin in place; this creates the squared bottom. (See Pic E.) Sew along each side. Turn the pouch right side out.

Cut a 46cm length of cord, measure 20.5cm from one end and sew this point to one side seam of the pouch, 4cm down from the top. Place a small gift inside the pouch, then tie cord into a bow. (See Pic F.) When the 25 pouches are complete, tie them along the twig at di�erent heights, trimming the excess cord as necessary. Tie a loop of cord to each end of the twig to hang it up. Adapted from Sew Advent Calendars by Debbie Shore, £9.99 from www.searchpress.com

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Swing-sleeve

blouse

Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for everyday or party wear, this floaty top with interesting swing-sleeve detail is simple to sew Project JULIA CLARIDGE www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk Photographer RENATA STONYTE Model HEATHER for BOSS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD

Julia

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

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STYLE

Pin along this seam

LAYPLANS:

60” wide

CENTRE BACK

CENTRE FRONT

SIDE FRONT

SIDE BACK

SELVEDGE

RE-FOLD FOR LAST PANEL

CUTTING: 1 pair back pieces 1 pair side back pieces 1 pair front pieces 1 pair side front pieces 1 pair sleeves NOTES: Use 1.5cm seam allowance throughout

Concealed zipper foot

FABRIC TYPES: Lightweight cotton, viscose, crepe, voile or chi�on

SLEEVE

HOW TO MAKE: Neaten the raw edges of the centre back seam. Tack the seam closed using a 1.5cm seam allowance along the centre back seam from the bottom hem to the notches. Press the seam open all the way to the top. Sew the zip to the centre back seam above the notches. Stitch the centre back seam closed after you have inserted the zip. Remove the tacking. (See Pic A.)

This clever foot makes inserting invisible zips a breeze. Sewing as closely as possible to the fastener is crucial to achieving success and this foot accomplishes that by unrolling the zipper slightly. Once it’s been �tted your zip will appear to be part of the seam

CUT HERE AND TURN IF THE FABRIC IS A ONE WAY PRINT

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • 1.7x1.4m fabric • 1.5m bias binding • 40cm invisible zip • free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

Stitch the darts in the front side panels. (See Pic B.)

FINSHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS: 10

Chest

92cm

97cm

102cm

107cm

112cm

Length side neck to hem

51cm

52cm

53cm

54cm

55cm

3 4

Hem the lower edge of the cape sleeves. (See Pic C.)

Neaten the raw edge of the centre front. Join the centre front seam between the notch and hem. Press the seam open. Where the seam is open above the notch, turn the seam in again to form a narrow double-turned edge at this point. Stitch around this opening. (See Pic D.)

Join the shoulder seams of centre front and centre back. Join the

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Sandwiched layers

How to...

Side seam

insert an invisible zip

shoulder seams of side front and side back. Neaten the raw edge. (See Pic E.)

With right sides together and notches matched, pin the sleeve to the centre front and then turn over and pin to the centre back. Repeat for the opposite side. (See Pic F.)

7 I

With the sleeve sandwiched in the middle, lay the side panels over the pinned sleeve and front/back panels, matching notches and shoulder seams, and pin and stitch in place, sewing through the three layers. Join the side seams and neaten the raw edges. (See Pic G.)

With right sides together match the raw edge of the bias binding to each side of the neck edge. Stitch in the crease. Fold the binding inside, press and stitch in place. Use the same method to finish the armholes with the remaining bias binding. If your binding is wide, folding it twice gives a neater effect. (See Pic H.)

Turn a narrow double-turned hem around the bottom of the top to finish. (See Pic I.).

Get the look

Starman rayon

Full of personality, this 140cm-wide lightweight viscose has a lovely drape ÂŁ12 per metre

www.sewoverit.co.uk

Switch the regular foot to a concealed zipper foot. Pin and then hand-tack to RS of the garment, one side of the zip to the centre back seam. The edge of the zipper tape should match up with the raw edge of the fabric. Using a concealed zipper foot, open out the zip teeth so they fit into the channel on your concealed zip foot. Sew carefully along the length of the zip. Move the remaining side of the zip matching with the remaining centre back seam. Again, the edge of the tape should run along the raw edge of the fabric. Pin and tack in place, then sew as before. Make sure the top edges match before you sew, then repeat for other side.

With top RST join the rest of the centre back seam, starting from the last stitch you made when stitching in the zip. Sew all the way down to the hem and then press the seam open.

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31/10/2017 16:21

Team talk

What’s on the Sew Now team’s radar this month and what’s inspiring us to get sewing! Deputy Editor

INSPIRATION

Editorial Assistant

Leanne

MOST INSPIRATIONAL WEBSITE

To absolutely no one’s surprise, my website of choice for inspiration has to be Pinterest! It's my go-to destination for inspiration when it comes to starting a new craft or arty project. It seems there are no limits to what you can �nd on Pinterest; it’s brilliant for �nding new creative ideas. Take a look at my pro�le to see what I'm pinning at the minute at www.pinterest.co.uk/leanneb91

Seamstress

Bethany WHAT I’D LIKE IN MY CRAFTY STOCKING

Top of my list has to be these adorable animal ear embroidery hoops from DMC. You can choose from a 10cm wooden cat, bear or bunny ears and either embroider cute faces or use them to frame scraps of your favourite fabric. Plus, they’d be pretty awesome Christmas gifts! Make a crafty animal lover very happy for £13.99 www.lakesideneedlecraft.co.uk

Jeanette CHRISTMAS STYLE?

My Christmas style is very traditional with lots of hand crafting and buying handmade goods to support other makers. We always hang our family stockings along the hearth and decorate the house with as much greenery as we can.

Editor

FABRIC OF THE MOMENT

Sam

Dressy fabric is in my sewing pile right now, and my Christmas making plans include a simple jersey kimono in a wine-coloured devore velvet and a rose-sequinned cami for special occasions.

£15.99 per metre, www.adamrossfabrics.co.uk

HOW I STAY CREATIVE

As the end of the year starts drawing closer I always like to get a head start on a new creative resolution (less pressure come 1st January!). I recently took part in Inktober, a challenge on Instagram where, on each day of October, you draw something based on a one-word brief. There are lots of similar challenges to take part in to get the creative juices �owing. Take a look at my pro�le simonsayspins to see more of my drawings.

Art Editor

Simon

£9.50 per metre, www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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The pattern

REVIEW Jenny of sewing blog Today, Jenny Stitched… sews the Melilot shirt from Deer and Doe using gorgeous retro fabric Words JENNY SPRATLEY jennystitched.wordpress.com

As someone who lives in jeans, I am always looking for great tops to pair with them with. I love button-down shirts, and the Melilot, part of the Botany collection from Deer and Doe, is the perfect balance of casual and French chic. A less-structured shirt, the Melilot comes with a dropped shoulder, long and shortsleeved options, a rounded or a mandarin collar and the choice between a regular or concealed button stand.

Deer and Doe’s designs are modern and sleek, with neat, classic detail and clean lines. The Melilot is a great example as it is a garment that can be dressed up or down depending on the fabric used. The pattern is beautifully drafted; the seams match up perfectly and the instructions (in English and French) are very clear, making this an ideal pattern for those who want to sew their first shirt. It is also a surprisingly quick make! I chose View B with short sleeves and a mandarin collar as I wanted to be able to layer it under cardigans and jumpers during the colder months. The pattern calls for woven fabric such as batiste, silk or flannel and I used a fantastic magenta 80s-style graphic-print viscose. Although I had to grade between sizes from the waist to the hip, the fit was pretty great straight out of the envelope. Deer and Doe drafts for a C cup so its patterns already suit a slightly curvier frame. For my version I omitted the pockets, shortened the back hem to match the length of the front as it was too long for me and used less buttons than recommended so it didn’t look too cluttered against the busy print. The finished shirt is really comfortable to wear – definitely a wardrobe staple!

Get the look

Abstract-print viscose dress fabric

This 148cm-wide 100% viscose fabric features multicoloured geometric shapes on a magenta background £4.99 per metre

www.minervacrafts.com

Melilot Shirt

Paper pattern £14.90

Sizes 34-46 (UK 4-16)

www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

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’s n g UK i e e ew i n Th .1 s gaz o N ma

MAKE IT A

wonderful winter The UK's No.1 sewing mag

Comfort

& joy! You'll love our latest bumper issue!

Don’t miss!

2 FREE GIFTS WORTH OVER

Incedible

SIZE RANGE

4-26

£17

VINTAGE WALL CALENDAR

Inspiring

ARTICLES, PROJECTS & GUIDES: Last minute Christmas gifts Pretty patchwork handbag Sweet & petite kid's bootees Meet Butterick pattern designer Liesl Gibson

ISSUE 47

ON SALE

30TH NOV Contents and gift subject to change

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls47

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Pudding present sack Make present-giving all the more memorable with our quick-make cross-stitch gift bag

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Project BETHANY ARMITAGE & SAM STERKEN

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ACCESSORY

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 2 50x37cm outer fabric •• 20cm square iron-on interfacing •• 80cm ribbon •• matching thread •• white, red, green & brown DK yarn •• large embroidery or darning needle •• medium-sized hand-sewing needle •• Gütermann metallic thread •• free templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: Make sure that each cross stitch is sewn in the same order for a neater and more uniform finish. Eg bottom right of the square to top left, then bottom left to top right and repeat HOW TO MAKE: Measure to find the centre of your bag or where you would like to feature your motif.

Beginning with the bottom of the pudding and brown yarn, cross-stitch

Choose a fabric with a large grid you can easily stitch on to

To prevent knotting, use no more than 50cm of yarn/ thread at a time, especially when using metallic floss

each colour section in turn, following the cross stitch pattern.

To finish, outline the design using three strands of metallic thread and back-stitch. Be careful not to twist the metallic thread as it is a more coarse consistency and is prone to tangling.

Lay the interfacing over the reverse of your design making sure it covers it in full with an allowance around the edges. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, press the edges down so the interfacing protects the back of the design. Don’t iron over the centre section. (See Pic A.)

On each main piece, double-fold 1cm over the top edge towards the WS. Pin and sew in place. (See Pic B.)

Place the two outer pieces RST, pin matching up the sides and top edges. Start stitching 10cm down from the top edge. Continue to the stitch along the long edge, bottom and remaining long side. Starting at the same point finish with a zigzag stitch. (See Pic C.)

Press the seam allowance open along the 10cm opening. Carefully sew the edges down, starting at the top of one side, pivoting 0.5cm below the opening, sewing across the seam and pivoting to continue up the other side of the seam allowance. (See Pic D.)

Bethany

Fold top edge down 5cm and pin in place to make a casing. Ensure your side seam lines up neatly. Sew the casing down 0.5cm from the edge. (See Pic E.)

Take your length of ribbon and attach a safety pin. Feed this through the casing and join with a knot or a couple of hand stitches. Pull through the casing so it’s not visible.

We used

Ronnie Kansas Troubles brushed cotton flannel £15 per metre

www.raystitch.co.uk

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INTERVIEW

For the love

of craft

We chat to designer and multi-crafter extraordinaire Debbie von Grabler-Crozier You’re a real Jill-of-all-crafts, what in particular do you love about sewing? It occurred to me that the best way to protect my income is to spread it as thinly as possible! I think that my love of sewing is about combining practicality with beauty. We are so lucky to live in this time where we have the most wonderful things to work with and at a reachable price. With sewing, I will have a concept in my mind and use algebra and geometry more now than when I was a scientist to bring the creations to life, so that they are accurate and easy to make. For me, that is the best way to translate what I see into something that everyone can replicate.

You became a full-time crafter and writer in 1997, what have been some of the highlights over your 20 years of making? I have so many! Memorable deadlines would be one. I once designed, drafted, made and sent a quilt to Sydney in three days to help an editor who had been let down. After that I realised, hey you know what – if I can do that, I can do just about anything! I love to make things for my girls, Daisy and Sally, my two cocker spaniels. They are with me all the time in my craft cave, not so gently bullying me and reminding me when it is dinner time (theirs of course!).

What’s on your to-sew list at the minute? I have a couple of quilts, some more bags because we are just coming to the end of the Christmas projects and they feature quite heavily. I don’t make things for myself in my spare time. I am really terrified of burning out (that has happened to me once and I don’t want to go there again). Spare time is for my hobbies, which are crochet and physics.

Where do you find inspiration for your crafty projects? All around. Since moving to England from Australia, my mind has gone into hyperdrive. It is such an inspirational and beautiful place! I try not to get too much inspiration from the internet. Unfortunately the way our brains take in and store information and then give it back to us as if it were our idea really frightens me. Sometimes, what I think is my own idea will turn out to be someone else’s and I will only realise this months later when leafing through a book or tidying on Pinterest. To stop this from happening, I keep a strict scrapbook of the evolution of each design so that I can be sure that it is mine.

Debbie’s nana’s old machine that she learned to sew on

You’re a prolific maker and sew for lots of magazines, as well as your own book and blog. Where do you find the space to store all your makes? Let me put it this way, my family have not had a purchased gift in a while, poor 34

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Watching Mum work is tiring!

31/10/2017 16:24

INTERVIEW TURN TO PAGE 45 TO MAKE DEBBIE'S MISTLETOE LAPTOP CASE

Debbie’s very packed ‘craft cave’

things. I store things and sell them if the opportunity arises too. Some I cannot wait to get back and use because they are a little bit special. I donate heaps to good causes for raffles too. Your new book The Bag Boutique has just been released, could you tell us a little bit about it and who it’s for? The Bag Boutique is a bumper book of bag patterns of all sizes and for all ages of recipient. It is for most abilities too, from confident beginner onwards.

“If you're not sure, practise on a piece of cheap fabric until you get the technique right" I tried to include patterns without zips here and there until sewists get more confident. Zips and 3D makes frighten people unnecessarily. The zip thing comes from our parents and grandparents when sewing was a lot more primitive. I was taught to sew by my nana on her turn-of-the-century Singer treadle machine and I still have that machine today – it is a prized possession. The trouble was though that it didn’t come with the array of feet that modern machines do and some things were tricky to accomplish. Sewists passed on this fear of zips and some things became famous for being a bit of a trial. It isn’t so

anymore; putting zips in bags is now one of the easiest things to do! What do you love most about bag making? Ending up with something practical and lovely. I am not really into things that are only for show; I like them to do something. On the other side of the coin, I hate saving things for ‘best’. Every day is a special occasion and we should always use our best bag, even if it is just to run down to the shop for milk. Nice bags can brighten the day. What are your top tips to make professional-looking bags? Go slowly. Read the pattern through carefully and assemble the necessary items before you begin. Be sure about what you are doing and if you are not sure, practise on a piece of cheap fabric until you get the technique right. Above all, don’t skimp on the interfacing! In my patterns, it is there for a specific reason and leaving it out ‘because you can’t see it’ will only result in a disappointing bag. Thinking ahead to 2018, what can we look forward to from you? More of everything! I have another book in mind and so many ideas that I cannot sleep at night. I will be making a lot!

Debbie’s latest book. Pick up yours for £14.99 from www.searchpress.com

The Ina Bag project from The Bag Boutique

Find out more about Debbie and her latest designs at www.sallyandcraftyvamp. blogspot.co.uk

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Christmas gift guide UNDER £10

Geometric wooden ruler £7 www.notanotherbill.com

Dandelyne mini embroidery hoop kits from £6.50 www.themakery.co.uk

Sew Now, 3 issues for only £6*

Sewing supplies tins £5 each

Sew Let’s Stitch Pin Wheel £1.95

Jennie Maizels Russian Dolls iron-on-patches £4 for 2 www.hobbycraft.co.uk

www.tch.net

www.dotcomgiftshop.com

www.practicalsubs.com/2460

UNDER £15

Make your own Mermaid kit £12.99 www.gettingpersonal.co.uk

Dressmaking and craft gold foil print £12 www.ethical.market

Bah! Humbug cross stitch kit £9.95

Illustrated tape measure £10

Supercraft Christmas by Sophie Pester and Catharina Burns £12.99 www.dk.com

www.themakearcade.co.uk

WE LOVE... Dressmaking journal £12.95 www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk

www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

*Go to page 50 for terms and conditions

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SHOPPING

Looking for the ideal gift this Christmas? Look no further, we’ve got you covered with these perfect present picks! Leanne

UNDER £25

Personalised hessian present sack £22

Kids felt penguin sewing kit £17.65

O� the Wall macrame kit £19.95

Tula Pink fabric scissors £22.99

English paper piecing cushion kit £24

Set of 2 Christmas Champagne �utes £16

www.handmadechristmasco.com

www.thecraftymastermind.com

www.mariapalito.etsy.com

www.shop.thenewcrafthouse.com

www.woolandthegang.com

www.cathkidston.com

UNDER £40

WE LOVE...

Annabella sewing basket £31.45

Sterling Silver plated cross stitch bangle kit £28.21 www.redgatestitchery.com

6" purse-making kit with fabric £32

Little Ragsmith Baby and toddler dress kit £36

Filofax Sa�ano rose gold personal organiser £37www.paperchase.co.uk

Orla Kiely storage tins £39.95

www.myfabrics.co.uk

www.notonthehighstreet.com

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www.susieddesigns.co.uk

www.andshine.co.uk

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WORTH

Support your local sewing shop

£19*

Spend £15 in participating stores to receive your FREE seven-pack of Gütermann Sew-all 150m thread worth £19!

WIN

Shop at your local store and fill in the coupon on page 40 for a chance to win this fantastic prize

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Spend a minimum of £15 in any of the participating stores to be entered into this prize draw* You'll also get a seven-pack of Gütermann Sew-all 150m thread worth £19 with every entry!* *Terms & conditions apply

BANBURY

BEVERLEY

You’ll also be entered into our exclusive prize draw to WIN your dream sewing room set! One lucky reader will win an amazing Janome DKS100 Special Edition sewing machine, Horn Hobby chair and Storage 4 Crafts sewing table, worth £1,400! Why compromise? BEXLEY HEATH

Banbury Sewing Centre 57 Parsons Street, Banbury, Oxon OX16 5NB

enquiries@banburysewingcentre.co.uk

Open 9-5 Mon-Sat

Supplying Fabrics, including Designer, Disney and Quilting. Patterns,Haberdashery, Lace, Trims, buttons and things. Knitting & Crochet accessories and yarns. Classes.

BIRMINGHAM

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customers to place an order

Telephone orders welcome 01295 262344

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

CHEPSTOW

CHESHIRE

Birmingham City Centre Sewing Studio & Tuition 212 The Jubilee Centre, 120 Pershore Street, Birmingham B5 6ND Fabric and Haberdashery Shop specialising in amazing jerseys and luxury cotton lawns. Dashwood Jerseys now in stock Tel 07917 536 220 www.sewcoolandcrafty.co.uk

CLITHEROE

DURHAM

17 Moor Street, Chepstow, NP16 5DB 01291 627 056

An abundance of haberdashery awaits you. Fabrics, patterns, gutterman threads, DMC embroidery threads, gorgeous ribbons and buttons and more... alterations and curtain making too!

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK

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GLOUCESTERSHIRE

GRIMSBY

From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around! 2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

HEREFORD

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Badder Fabrics of Hereford

The Fabbadashery

Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week! hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

MORPETH

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A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

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Amble Pin Cushion Ad 46x50mm AW.indd 1

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13/05/2016 08:42

Fabrics and Haberdashery Sewing patterns in stock Ribbon, Lace and Trimmings Alterations Sewing classes and workshops Free friendly advice

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Why compromise?

www.guetermann.com W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions. We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool. No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 melanie.1971@live.co.uk

NORTHALLERTON

NORTHWICH Cheshire

The Sew Easy Sewing Shop

Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY

07952709910

Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk

FREE GIFT WORTHING

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and from models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service

WORTH £19*

1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.

2 Market Street, Ulverston, LA12 7AY 07742 247 179 or 07815 691 258 thelittlekraftshed@gmail.com

SCOTLAND

PRESTON HAMPSHIRE ®

www.sewcreative.org.uk

fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Welcome to my lovely & craft emporium! workshops more We have lots of crafty goodies for sale 20-22support, Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, however inspiration and the Hampshire, GU32are 3EW service with a smile free! T: 01730 858020

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to E: info@sewcreative.org.uk Saturday 68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

SHEFFIELD Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

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42 www.quiltnow.co.uk

Claim your FREE Gütermann thread pack at one of these participating stores PLUS, be entered into our exclusive bumper prize QN34.P40.indd 42 draw* Name............................................................................................................... Address............................................................................................................

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*Minimum in-store spend of £15 applies. To take advantage of this offer, please hand this voucher over the counter with your contact details completed. Your free Gütermann sevenpack of Sew-all 150m thread will be sent directly to you from Practical Publishing Ltd. Please ensure all your details are completed in black ink. By taking advantage of this offer you are agreeing to join the Practical Publishing Int Ltd e-newsletter list. You may opt out of this at any time. Your details will not be shared with any third-party companies. Please allow 2-4 weeks for your free thread to arrive. Available while stocks last. UK offer only. Only stores listed on pages 38-40 of Sew Now 15 are participating in the thread and prize draw offer. Competition ends 15th March 2018.

Sweet Seams Sewing Academy specialises in teaching people of all abilities to sew. Young sewers from 8 years. Teenagers group and Adult classes. Small classes + friendly environment = happy creative customers Fabrics, haberdashery, patterns and handmade gifts. 41 Walton Road, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 0DH www.sweetseams.co.uk 07954 326495

WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK

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INSPIRATION

Cherry-picked FABRIC Whether you’re a selﬁsh or selﬂess sewist, our suppliers have picked out some gems to suit all your project needs VISCOSE KNITTED JERSEY

MAGICAL CHRISTMAS COTTON

Croft Mill’s experience in fabric spans three generations. The company specialises in dress and craft fabric, but has a huge range to suit all needs. Take a look at the fabulous fabric on o�er by mail order and online. www.croftmill.co.uk

Rico Design sells unique products created by the company’s designers based in the UK and Germany and is renowned for its use of colours and attention to detail when producing beautiful craft products. www.rico-design.co.uk

CROFT MILL

Caroline

RICO

Michael

Super splodge viscose jersey £7.95 per metre This 145cmwide brightly coloured abstract jersey is 95% viscose, 5% spandex and possesses superb draping qualities.

Printed black graphic �r with gold £14.99 per metre Suitable for everything from Santa sacks to cushions and table runners to placemats, this stylish gold print will add a little luxury to your makes.

Quant viscose ponte roma double knit jersey £6 per metre A �rm favourite, this stable knit is ideal if you want to sew something with stretch that won’t be di�cult to work with and doesn’t crease.

Printed rose with Christmas icons £14.99 per metre This fun and fresh fabric features everything Christmassy from funny skiers to winter snow globes and is perfect for brightening up festive projects.

Viscose jersey From £5.50 per metre Croft Mill o�ers a large range of viscose with elastane jersey fabric in a wide range of colours. They’re wonderful for all kinds of garments from cowl-neck tops to wrap dresses.

Printed green and gold unicorn £14.99 per metre This stylish take on a wintry unicorn is sure to spread some festive cheer this season!

W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Little Town

gift trio SN15.P42.indd 42

Tick off a few more presents on your list with these lovely projects to suit the whole family, all using half a yard of fabric or less

31/10/2017 16:26

HOME

This boxed pencil case is made in beautiful Little Town fabric and is quilted to give it extra body and strength to hold your pens and pencils all in one place Project LOUISA GOULT www.sewmotion.com

SKILL LEVEL:

Louisa

MATERIALS: •• 26cm square outer fabric •• 26cm square lining fabric •• 2 7cm squares lining fabric •• 26cm square wadding •• 40cm zip in co-ordinating colour •• fabric marker or soft pencil •• zipper foot NOTES: If your outer fabric has a strong linear pattern, make sure the pattern is straight when cutting, as some fabric can warp slightly when rolled on the bolt at the factory HOW TO MAKE: To quilt the square, place the lining fabric face down on your worktop, then put the wadding on top and your outer fabric face up. Pin together. (See Pic A.)

1 IDEAL FOR A STATIONERY LOVER

Geo fir pencil case

As this is a decorative stitch, increase your stitch length on your sewing machine to about 3. Start at the midway point along the top edge and sew a gentle wavy line down the centre of the square. When you get to the end, sew off the edge, but don’t break thread. Instead, lift the presser foot and turn the panel 180˚, position the needle a little way to the right of the first sewn line and stitch another wavy line – you can echo the first, mirror it or a bit of both, just try and keep the spacing between the lines roughly equal. When you get to the other end, do as before and lift the presser foot, turn the panel and sew another line. When you’ve completed one half, repeat with the second until you have a fully quilted square. (See pics A and B.)

Trim the panel to a 24cm square to allow for any movement while quilting. With the zip facing up, place the W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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quilted panel right side down, lining up the top edges. With equal zipper at both ends, pin in place. (See Pic C.)

Attach the zipper foot so the needle is to the left and sew along the top, guiding the left edge of the foot up against the right side of the zipper’s teeth. (See Pic D.)

Flip the pencil case over and fold the quilted panel upwards so the lining fabric is on the outside. Line up the top edge with the top of the zipper, taking care to also line up the back and front of the quilted panel at both ends. (See Pic E.) Pin and sew as before. Open the zipper fully. Top-stitching along both sides of the zipper is decorative, but also keeps the zipper’s backing out of the way of the opening. Pull the zipper’s excess down and behind

the top seam and pin along the whole edge. Increase your stitch length to 3 to match the quilting and sew 5mm down from the top edge of the fabric. Repeat on the other half of the zip – as you have used such a long zipper you should have room to manoeuvre it into place. (See Pic F.) To make the tabs, fold each of the 7cm squares in half, right sides together, and sew down one edge to make a tube. Turn right sides out and press so the seam lies down the centre of the back. Fold in half along the length and press well. (See Pic G.) Open the zip halfway (this is very important as you won’t be able to turn it to the right side if the zip is closed). Fold the pencil case tube exactly in half with right sides together so the zip runs down the centre. Pin a tab at each end, with the

folded edge facing into the pencil case. Insert a couple of pins at right angles to hold it in place. Pin and stitch down the whole seam, going over the zip a couple of times to give it extra strength. (See pics H and I.)

After sewing both ends, trim off the excess zip and sew a zigzag stitch or overlock down each side to neaten the seams.

To box the corners, fold each at a right angle to the sewn seam – if you lie the pencil case flat and line up the two end seams this should help get straight lines. Measure 2.5cm from the outside point and draw a line across the seam. Sew across each line, making sure you sew a couple of backstitches at beginning and end to secure. Turn right sides out and your pencil case is finished! (See pics J and K.)

WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK

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HOME Make carrying your laptop a pleasure with this stylish case featuring gorgeous detail Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

SKILL LEVEL:

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE

Debbie

TEMPLATE

MATERIALS: • 50cm x WOF outer fabric • 70cm x WOF lining fabric • 40x90cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • 100x72cm Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing • 60cm grey heavy-duty zip • 18cm grey zip • co-ordinating thread for topstitching • grey cotton yarn for tassel • ribbon scraps for the tassel & zip pull • beads • free templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: Seam allowances are all 0.5cm unless otherwise stated WOF – width of fabric RESIZING This cover is designed for a MacBook but can easily be resized by adding or subtracting a centimetre or two to the flat, left-hand side and bottom only (this avoids addressing the issue of the curve). Don’t forget to do the same on the lining and be aware that your zip length will also change. Buy larger when it comes to the zip, custom fit and trim HOW TO MAKE: Use the template to cut two pieces from the outer fabric and fuse H630 to the wrong side of both. The curve goes at the top right-hand corner so check which is which and earmark the correct one for the front. Lay it onto a slightly larger piece of Style-Vil and attach with a half normal seam all around. Trim the foam interfacing to finish. (See Pic A.)

Mistletoe laptop case

GREAT FOR A GADGET FAN!

The back has a zip box pocket running along the flat, right-hand side. Cut a 24cm wide x 40cm long piece of lining for the pocket. On the WS side of the pocket lining on one short end, mark a box 1cm deep x 18cm long. Make this box 2.5cm down from the edge of the lining. (See Pic B.) This is the sewing line. W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Mark a line horizontally through the box with two angles at each end. This is the cutting line. (See Pic C.)

Measure 1.5cm down from the flat edge of the back panel and make a series of marks. Line up the pocket lining the end with the box on these marks right sides together and pin. Sew around the sewing line and cut along the cutting line including the angles. Post the lining through the hole and smooth it out on the back. Top-stitch the smaller of the zips into the hole. (See Pic D.)

Bring the long end of the lining up and sew the sides and top to complete the pocket. Thread a scrap of ribbon through the zip pull. (See Pic E.)

Attach the back to a piece of slightly larger Style-Vil as you did for the front and trim it. With the right sides together, sew the front of the case to the back, leaving the top and the right-hand side open. Sew the left-hand side and the bottom only. The outer is now finished and ready for the zipper and the lining.

Cut two pieces of lining fabric and sew them on the left-hand side and bottom, leaving a gap in the centre of the side seam for turning out. Prepare the zip by shortening it slightly to fit along the top, around the curve and down the side.

Using a heavy-duty zip gives a slightly stronger structure. Sew back and forth a couple of times at the end and trim off the bulky end. Baste the zip to the outer. Begin the zipper on the top left-hand side about 1cm from the edge. (See pics F and G.) Sew in the zip, open it and then baste and sew to the other side.

Tuck the end tapes to the side on the top left-hand side where it will open. With the zipper open and the case the right side out, pull the lining (inside out) over the top so that the right sides of the fabric are together. Pin around the zip and sew.

Turn the case out through the gap and gently push everything into place, making sure the curve is perfect (more clipping can be helpful but ensure that you don’t snip the threads or go beyond the seam allowance). Topstitch around to keep the lining in place.

Make the tassel by winding grey cotton yarn around a piece of cardboard (about 10cm long) roughly 30 times. Tie off the top and then cut the tassel from the card. Tie the centre about 2cm down and hot-glue ribbon around the middle tie. Secure the tassel to the main zip pull with a bead or two. (See Pic H.)

Debbie’s bag-making tips •• Treat the ribbon ends with fray stopper to stop them unravelling. •• If it’s tricky to get into the bottom of the zip with your sewing machine, handsew this for a neat finish. •• It’s helpful to make small snips in the zip tape to help it fit the curve.

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HOME

If you’re giving vouchers or tickets this Christmas, make sure it looks special with this gorgeous gift envelope complete with address label Project BECKY CLARKE www.beckyclarke.com

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 40cm square outer fabric •• 40cm square lining fabric •• 10cm square plain cotton for address label •• white felt scrap for stamp •• pinking shears •• small snap fasteners HOW TO MAKE: Carefully open a paper envelope. Flatten it, pin it to the fabric and cut one of each pattern, adding 1cm around all the edges. (See Pic A.)

PERFECT FOR KIDS

Pretty gift envelopes

With the outer and lining fabric right sides together, machine-stitch around the edge with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving the short straight edge open. Clip the points and into the corners and turn right side out thorough the open seam. Iron flat, tucking in the 1cm seam allowance on the open seam. (See Pic B.)

Becky

With lining fabric uppermost, fold the sides of the envelope in and use press flat. Fold up the bottom edge, press and pin. (See Pic C.)

Hand-sew a running stitch all around the envelope to secure the flaps together, close the open seam and create a decorative finish on the opening flap. (See Pic D.) W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Iron the edges of the fabric scraps of to create a small rectangle for the stamp. Pin to white felt and use pinking shears to cut out the stamp. Pin in place on the envelope and use a running stitch through all layers to attach. (See Pic E.)

Use a ruler and pencil to draw three lines about 1cm apart on a scrap of white cotton. Write the label with a biro then iron the fabric label edges to the reverse. Pin and stitch to the envelope. (See pics F and G.)

If necessary, use a different size of envelope as a template to suit the size of your gift

Stitch tiny snap fasteners to the flap and envelope body to create a closure. (See Pic H.)

Sam

Get the look

The fabric used is from the Little Town collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. For further details and stockist information, visit www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

Winterberry Mist

Snowdrift Magic

Tree Farm Lit

Twinkle Stars

Pearl and Gold Metallic

Gifted

Vlieseline interfacing and wadding are available from www.ladysewandsew.co.uk

WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK

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HAVE YOURSELF A PASTEL-Y LITTLE CHRISTMAS

We’re loving pastel shades for Christmas this year, so here’s our inspirational vision for your home Pink ice cream tree decoration £12, www.amara.com

180cm colourchanging tree £25, www.wilko.com

www.dunelm.com

Metallic fade 12-piece dinner set £29, www.homeessentionals.co.uk

Lavender bi-stretch fabric £64 per 25 metre roll, www.remnantkings.co.uk

50-bauble box £6, www.primark.co.uk

DIY gingerbread house kit £35, www.biscuiteers.com

Pastel metallic crackers £24, www.debenhams.com

Pastel polyester jacquard crepe dress fabric £3.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com

Pink polycotton with white polka dots £3.59 per metre, www.simplysewcrafty.co.uk

Unicorn £10, www.sainsburys.co.uk

W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

SN15.P49.indd 49

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8 INCREDIBLE REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE

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Subscribe today, o�er expires 07/12/201 7

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In partnership with

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A NEW MACHINE FOR CHRISTMAS THE 230DC IS JUST £299 UNTIL 31ST DECEMBER!

Terrific

trees

MATERIALS: • 20cm square base fabric backed with interfacing • dotty fabric for snow drift • 2 large white & black appliqué trees • small black & white appliqué tree • Heat N Bond fusible adhesive • embroidery hoop • co-ordinating & contrasting thread • pencil NOTES: All shapes to be ironed on to the base fabric using fusible adhesive HOW TO MAKE: Using the hoop and pencil, draw a circle on the backing fabric to help you position the design.

We used the 230DC fully computerised machine. Visit www.janome.co.uk for more details.

Create the tree trunk using a zigzag stitch (width 2.0, length 0.3). Stitch approximately 1cm to 1.5cm to create a tree trunk on the trees as shown.

Select the clasp stitch from the stitch selector to create the snow�ake pattern on the upper background. Sew several snow�akes (clasp stitches) as required to create the snowy scene. On a computerised machine, using the ’lock stitch’ button will allow a single pattern repeat of the selected decorative stitch. Before you start stitching, select the lock stitch – this will stitch out one pattern repeat.

Clasp-stitch snowflakes

Fuse Heat N Bond to the reverse of the appliqué trees and snowdrift fabric. Remove the backing paper and set into position on the circle.

Stitch across the top edges of the exposed snow using satin stitch. Choose the zigzag stitch width to cover the raw edge adequately and lower the stitch length. A satin stitch foot will help the stitches �ow under the foot smoothly.

Stitch around the trees, just on the inside edge with a stitch of your choice; we’ve used a straight stretch stitch.

Lay the design over the inner hoop and loosen the screw on the outer hoop. Position over the inner hoop, trapping the fabric, and tighten the screw. Carefully cut away any excess fabric from the back of the hoop.

Voila! Your hoop is ready!

COMPUTERISED MACHINES A fully computerised sewing machine has stitches and settings available at the touch of a button, helping you focus on learning new techniques and skills to improve your sewing. Here are just a few of the advantages to sewing with a computerised machine: When selecting stitches, the machine will automatically give you the default setting for the width and length of the stitch unless you want to make changes, for example, changing a zigzag stitch to a satin stitch, or changing the width and length to suit a particular project Computerised machines will give you a greater choice of buttonholes, and this is ideal for dressmaking as the buttonholes will be consistent in length and density Needle up/needle down – if you start with the needle down the machine stops with the needle down, ideal when turning corners

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M7660

Available from fabric stores and websites countrywide. Or visit www.sewdirect.com

Kick back and relax! W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

SN15.P53.indd 53 McCall's advertisement Sew Now issue 15.indd 1

31/10/2017 24/10/2017 09:56 13:41

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Classic

Tea dress

Easily made in a weekend, this is the perfect dress for layering with your favourite cardigan. Alternatively, sew a more luxurious version for Christmas drinks! Project CLAIRE GARSIDE www.simplesewpatterns.co.uk Model HEATHER for BOSS

Claire FOLLOW OUR STEPBY-STEP ZIP TUTORIAL ON PAGE 22!

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STYLE

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: thread and tie it in a knot. Press the darts in the direction shown. (See Pic B.)

SIZE

45" wide

1.9m

1.95m

2.06m

2.12m

2.18m

2.24m

60" wide

1.9m

SIZE

Bust

33”

35”

37”

39”

41”

43”

45”

Waist

26”

28”

30”

32”

34”

36”

38”

Hips

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

46”

48”

MATERIALS: •• see fabric requirements •• 50cm medium-weight interfacing •• 22” zip •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

SIZING:

LAYPLANS:

45”

SKILL LEVEL:

45”

45” FOLD

60”

FOLD

60”

FOLD

60”

FABRIC TYPES: Woven fabric such as cotton, poplin, poly cotton, satin, Tana lawn, crêpe HOW TO MAKE: Mark the front and back darts on the wrong side of the fabric. (See Pic A.)

FOLD

KEY:

FOLD

FRONT BODICE

BACK SKIRT

SLEEVE

BACK BODICE

FRONT FACING

SLEEVE CUFF (IF USING)

FRONT SKIRT

BACK FACING

FRONT BODICE FRONT BODICE BACK SKIRT BACK SKIRT

SLEEVE SLEEVE

Stitch in the darts, starting at the widest point at the seam line and ending at the point. Do not backstitch at the end; just leave a loose

With RST join front and back bodices together at the shoulders. (See Pic C.) With RST join front and back facings together. Press facings open. (See Pic D.)

With RST stitch facings onto the bodice using 1cm seam allowance. At ‘X’ snip into seam allowance, stopping just before the stitch line. Turn facing through to the wrong side and press flat. (See Pic E.) With RST attach the front bodice to the front skirt using a 1cm seam allowance. Repeat for back bodice and back skirt. (See Pic F.)

When gathering stitches on the sleeve head, ensure they sit within the seam allowance

BACK BODICE FRONT FRONT FACING SLEEVE SLEEVE (IF USING) BACK BODICE FACING CUFFCUFF (IF USING) FRONT SKIRT FRONT SKIRT

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BACK FACING BACK FACING

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With RST stitch the dress together down the left side and then the right side. Press seams open. (See Pic G.)

Sew a line of gathering stitches along the sleeve head. With RST stitch seam and press open. (See Pic H.)

11 Why not add a lace trim to the sleeve or dress hem for pretty detail? Or you could make an easy sash belt with a strip of leftover fabric

Turn the zip inside out from the last stitch you made on the zip ‘X’ and continue to stitch all the way down. (See Pic K.)

Fold the back facing over to the right side of dress and stitch down each side of the zip through the facing. Snip top corners and turn facing back through to the inside of the dress. Press flat. (See Pic L.)

Turn up the sleeve and bottom hem by 0.5cm and stitch in place. (See Pic M.)

Get the look Sam

With RST set the sleeve into the armhole, pull the gathering stitches until the sleeve fits into the armhole. Stitch in place and press seam flat. (See Pic I.)

Pin one side of the zip in place with RST on the left-hand seam. Pin in place then hand-tack to secure. Remove pins and change to a zipper foot and stitch as close as possible to the zip teeth, stitching as far down as you can. Repeat on the other side, ensuring the seams align when the zip is closed. (See Pic J.)

Boa Blue finest cotton lawn

Colourful 145cm-wide falling-feather print with a soft, floaty feel £9 per metre

www.croftmill.co.uk

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ACCESSORY

GET THE LOOK

Viscose

Add beautiful viscose to your stash with these fabulous fabric picks

Floral-print viscose dress fabric £4.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com

Black Alegria viscose twill £15 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Are You Sitting Comfortably? viscose, £7 per metre, www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk

Cosmic Chestnut viscose £3.95 per metre, www.misformake.co.uk

Jewel pink cloque and chenille £8.50 per metre, www.dittofabrics.co.uk

Madura Brights viscose £12 per metre, www.sewoverit.co.uk

THESE FABRIC SUGGESTIONS WOULD ALL BE PERFECT FOR THE SWINGSLEEVE TOP ON PAGE 26!

High-low shirt, £45 www.longtallsally.com W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Winter fabric

explained

What do you need to know before sewing with winter fabric? Words BETHANY ARMITAGE

Wool Wool is an incredibly versatile fabric that comes in many different weights and weaves. Lightweight wool suiting and crepe are ideal for year-round wear, while coating and boiled wool is usually favoured for warmer winter garments. Clare Coat from Closet Case Pattern sizes 2-22 £16, www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk

Sewing with wool • When cutting heavierweight wool, especially through multiple layers, you may need to use a heavy-duty pair of fabric shears. • To feed woven wool through your machine, loosen the pressure on the presser foot to allow it to glide easily. • For thicker wool fabric, try a slightly longer and wider stitch length. • Pressing wool should involve a lot of steam and when making garments such as coats and shirts, try a wooden pressing block for trickier-to-reach sections like sleeves.

Corduroy KEEP A LINT ROLLER NEARBY WHEN CUTTING CORD AS IT WILL SHED

Teal babycord £14.50 per metre, www. dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Hazel 8-wale corduroy £8.99 per metre, www.calicolaine.co.uk Hannah boiled wool £14.99 per metre, www.activefabrics.co.uk

Sandy Camel and black loose herringbone wool £10 per metre, www.fabworks.co.uk

Corduroy is made of cotton or a cottonpolyester blend with ribs or ‘wales’ running vertically on the lengthwise grain. The ‘wale label’ refers to how many ribs the fabric has per inch. A three-wale fabric is known as a jumbo cord, while a finer needle or pincord is more likely to be around 16 wales.

Phoebe Colette dress, size 2-28 £15, www.backstitch.co.uk

Sewing with corduroy

• As with velvet, decide which way you want the pile to lie before you begin and cut all pieces with it in the same direction. • Keep the ribs straight as you cut by cutting on the grain, parallel to the fabric wales. • Just like pattern matching a print fabric, try to let the ribs guide you like stripes when you sew and piece sections together. • Try to avoid pressing the fabric too much (try a pressing cloth in between) and lower the presser foot pressure and thread tension slightly so as not to squash the pile as you’re working with it.

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FEATURE

Velvet Velvet is one of the most luxurious fabrics around. It’s warm and comfortable to wear and has a rich texture and shine, lending itself perfectly to standout bomber jackets and statement party wear.

Vogue 1520 sidegathered dress with beaded cuffs sizes 6-22 £15, www. sewessential.co.uk

Sequins It wouldn’t be party season without a generous helping of sequins! They may look intimidating to sew with, but with a few simple tricks you can easily master this glitzy fabric to create a stunning garment for Christmas. Choose a simple-style pattern and allow the fabric to really shine.

Copper brown luxury crushed velvet £5 per metre, www. textileexpressfabrics.co.uk

Sewing with velvet

IF YOU’D LIKE TO MACHINE-EMBROIDER ONTO VELVET USE TEAR-AWAY STABILISER UNDERNEATH AND SOLUBLE STABILISER ON TOP TO ENSURE THE STITCHES DON’T SINK INTO THE PILE

Burgundy stretch velvet £14 per metre, www. bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

• Decide on the direction of the nap. Ideally, you want the fabric to be cut with the nap going down so that it is smooth to run your hands down the garment. • Use fine pins or tailor’s tacks so as not to mark the fabric before sewing. • Velvet can be slippery to sew with so make sure you use a walking foot to give you maximum control. Placing a sheet of tissue paper between the two pieces of fabric can also help you to sew accurately. • Sew in the direction of the pile and if using stretch velvet don’t forget to use a stretch needle. • Before hemming stretch velvet, hang your garment for a few hours for it to rest and find its shape. When pressing, place a towel on top and hover the iron over it so that the steam can do its work.

Sewing with sequins • Depending on the makeup of your fabric, you will most likely want to line your garment to make it more comfortable next to your skin. A viscose, crepe or cotton lawn fabric should work well. • Sequins can blunt your dressmaking shears, so consider using a scissor sharpener or try a different pair. • When cutting, have a look for a repeat in the sequins to find the straight grain. Use this as a guide. • You will want to use a brand-new needle in your machine and have a spare ready as there is a chance that it may break. • When caring for your garment hand-wash it in lukewarm water with a mild detergent, do not wring it out and lay it as flat as you can to dry. Pressing is a big no-no!

Bold blue sequin fabric £6.50 per metre, www.fabricuk.com

CHOOSE A SIMPLE DESIGN WHEN USING SEQUINNED FABRIC AND LET THE SEQUINS DO THE TALKING!

Silver and gold reversible mermaid sequin fabric £18.99 per metre, www.bstfabrics.co.uk

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Roar! Hood & mi ens

QUICK XMAS GIFT IDEA

Watch the kids go wild for this amazing animal-print hood and mitt set

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KIDS

Make this cute hood and mittens set to keep your little ones warm and snug this winter. We’ve used the Kwik Sew 4202 pattern, which comes with lots of other cute options! SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • 60cm 152cm-wide fleece for outer hood • 40cm fleece (Contrast 1) • 60cm fleece for inner hood (Contrast 2 ) • 30cm for inner ears (Contrast 3) • 30cm for outer ears (Contrast 4) • 40cm 152cm-wide fleece for mittens • black fabric scraps for paw appliqué on mittens • paper-backed fusible web • tear-away stabiliser • 2 2.2cm buttons FABRIC TYPES: Cuddle fleece, fleece, jersey, faux fur NOTES: Seam allowances 13mm unless otherwise stated CUTTING: Trace and increase the pattern pieces as

SIZING: Hood – to ﬁt head circumference XS

19”/49cm

20”/51cm

21”/54cm

22½”/57cm

Mittens – to ﬁt hand length S

4¾“/13cm

5½”/14cm

6¼”/16cm

7”/18cm

shown. Then cut the pattern pieces from the fabric as follows: Hood Main fabric – fold in half and cut the hood, ears, pieces 1 and 5 (so you have 2 hood pieces and 2 ear pieces) Contrast 1 – fold the fabric in half and cut 2 hood bands against the fold (2 bands) Contrast 2 – fold the fabric and cut the hood (2 pieces) Contrast 3 – cut 2 ear piece 5 (2 piece) Contrast 4 – cut 2 ear piece 5 (2 pieces) Mittens Fold the fabric and cut pieces 6 to 9

HOOD

HOW TO MAKE: Stitch hood pieces with right sides together at the centre back seam. Press seam allowance open. For the lining, stitch the contrast hood pieces right sides together at the centre back seam. Press seam allowance open. (See Pic A.)

Place the lining and hood wrong sides together, matching seams and raw edges evenly. Stitch 6mm from the outer edges. (See Pic B.)

Trace the inner ear trim to the paper side of the fusible web. Fuse to wrong side of the contrast fabric. Cut out and remove the paper. Fuse trim appliqué to the right side of each contrasting inner ear at the placement marks. (See Pic C1 & C2.)

Place a piece of tear-away stabiliser on the wrong side of the inner ears under the appliqué and pin or baste in place, then stitch close to the inner edges. Stitch the ear to each inner ear with right sides together at the outer edge, leaving the bottom edge open. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out. (See Pic D.)

Pin the ears to the hood with right sides together at the front edge, matching the dots. Stitch 6mm from the front edge to keep in place. (See Pic E.) W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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8 Use up scraps of fleece, faux fur or felt for the ear outer and inner pieces

Turn the hood band to the outside over the seam allowance, folding in the fullness at the corners as shown. Top-stitch close to the inner edge of the hood band. (See Pic G.)

Sew buttonholes on your preferred side. Sew the buttons to the other side, opposite the buttonholes. (See Pic H.)

MITTENS

HOW TO MAKE: Select the fabric for the paw patch appliqués. Trace the paw patches to the paper side of the fusible web. Fuse to wrong side of appliqué fabric. (See Pic I.)

10 Leanne

Stitch the hood band pieces right sides together at one end. Press the seam allowance open. Then fold the hood band on the fold line, wrong sides together and with edges even. Press.

Pin the hood band to the wrong side of the hood at the outer edges, matching seams at upper front edge, and turn under ends to meet at the centre back seam on the bottom edge. Stitch with a 13mm seam. Do not trim seam allowances. (See Pic F.)

Cut out and remove the paper from the appliqués. Fuse the appliqué to the right side of each upper front piece at the placement marks. Place a piece of tear-away stabiliser on the wrong side of

This set has been created from Kwik Sew 4202, which also includes three other hoods and another mitten pattern. It’s just one of many crafty patterns in the Kwik Sew range, visit www.sewdirect.com to see the full pattern

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KIDS

the upper front under the appliqué. Pin or baste in place and then stitch close to all the raw edges of appliqué. (See Pic J.)

On the bottom edge of the upper front pieces, fold a 13mm hem to the wrong side and press. Fold under the raw edge to make a double hem and stitch. (See Pic K.)

On the upper edge of the lower front pieces, fold a 13mm hem to wrong side and press. Fold under the raw edge to make a double hem and stitch.

Place the wrong side of the lower front to the right side of the upper front, with the upper edge of the lower front at the dots. Stitch close to the side edges of the front to keep them in place. (See Pic L.)

k o o l e h t t e G

Stitch the back to each front piece with right sides together at the outer edge, leaving the bottom edge open. Trim seam allowance and turn right side out. Press. (See Pic M.)

Fold each cu� right sides together and stitch the side seam. Press the seam allowance open. Fold cu� on the fold line with wrong sides together and pin.

Pin the cu� to the front and back with right sides together, matching seams at the side with the thumb and placing a dot at the opposite seam. Stitch the band seam, stretching the cu� to �t the mitten. Press seam allowances towards the front and back. (See Pic N.)

Fabric available from www.empressmills.co.uk

Light gold premium fur

Vlieseline Stitch-N-Tear 90cm wide £4 per metre

www.sewessential.co.uk

Brown animal-print super-soft �eece

This long-pile 150cm-wide polyester �eece is lovely and soft and lends itself to multiple washes so is ideal for children’s projects £7.50 per metre

Luxury 145cm-wide premium polyester fur fabric with medium pile and hardwearing backing scrim £14.50 per metre

Orange, pink or black anti-pill polar �eece

Anti-pill �eece is a super all rounder. Its soft, warm and breathable and ideal for quilt backing, children’s projects, sweatshirts, coats, jackets and blankets

What is tear-away stabiliser? Stabiliser is most commonly used for providing an extra layer of support behind or in front of your sewing project to create a stable layer for even stitching. There are a variety of stabilisers in a range of weights to suit the density of the fabric you are sewing with. As you would with interfacing, you should match the weight of your stabiliser to the weight of your fabric. Tear-away stabiliser – this is often used when you need to remove most of the excess from the back of the fabric after sewing. Once you have �nished sewing, support the stitches with your �ngers and gently tear away the stabiliser. It’s ideal for a wide variety of material, except knit or sheer fabric. Cut-away stabiliser – this is the most stable of the bunch and is commonly used on knit or stretchy fabric to prevent the stitches from breaking when the garment is being washed or stretched. Wash-away stabiliser – this is best for projects where all of traces of the stabiliser need to be removed, making it ideal for stitching or embroidery on sheer or lightweight cotton. Before washing, gently remove as much of the stabiliser as possible then rinse the project under warm water to dissolve any traces.

£5.50 per metre

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Sustainable tailoring:

NARROWING A PAIR OF TROUSERS Change the shape of your trousers by narrowing the leg, using Jamie Kemp’s step-by-step tutorial

Jamie

Words JAMIE KEMP www.maledevonsewing.co.uk

t is funny how fashion styles come and go; something becomes fashionable, stays around a while then gets replaced by something ‘new’. Indeed, these fashions usually come back again and again. One item of clothing that seems to be forever changing is trousers: flares, wide, tapered, boot cut, skinny and every other style between takes a turn at being popular. One of the most common alterations is to narrow the legs on trousers for a tighter or slender fit. Slim-fitting trousers are certainly on trend, so why not have a go at altering a pair of wide-legged trousers you have hidden in the wardrobe?

Petite top, £26 and petite trousers, £28. Both available from www.mandco.com

The process of narrowing trouser legs is simple in theory but can become considerably more challenging depending on how the trousers are constructed. Trouser leg seams vary greatly and care should be taken to think how to proceed with the alteration. Trousers with simple pressed open seams are easy to alter but if you have flat-felled, French or coverstitched seams you must unpick these entirely to do the alteration satisfactorily.

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TUTORIAL

1 2

Begin by unpicking the hem and press. (See Pic A.)

Now turn the trousers inside out and put them on. Get someone to help you and pin each leg carefully to the desired shape. Take your time and ensure both legs look the same. Make sure you can comfortably take the trousers off when pinned and they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t too tight! (See Pics B.)

Using the pins as a guide, mark the position of the new seams using chalk or a suitable fabric marker. Blend the new seam into the original seam smoothly so as not to alter the overall shape of the trousers. (See Pic C.)

Often the inner leg seams have simple, pressed-open seams. Begin by sewing your new seam line and carefully blend into the old seam line. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sew too high on the inner seam as this will alter the shape of the crotch area and make the trousers ill

fitting and uncomfortable to wear. (See Pic D.)

Now trim the excess fabric away from the new seam. Leave at least 10-15mm of fabric along the seam. (See Pic E.)

Finish the new seam with either a zigzag stitch or overlocker to prevent fraying. Press the seams open. (See Pic F.)

As I mentioned earlier, the side seams are often more challenging. If they are simple pressed open seams you can proceed as you did with the inner seam in the previous steps. For any other type of seam, it is vital to unpick the entire length. Unpick a small area of the waistband (to gain access to the side seam) and unpick the side seam completely. (See Pic G.)

sew the new seam along the marked line. Ensure to blend into the original seam towards the top. Cut off the excess and finish seam. (See Pic H.)

All that is left is to close the small opening you made in the waistband and re-hem the trousers. Give everything a good press and admire your work. (See Pic I.) This method will allow you to narrow your trousers in a simple manner. Depending on your sewing skills and experience, you may wish to recreate the new seams as they were originally. This is particularly important on trousers that have a hard life, such as jeans. You may not have access to a cover-stitch machine however, so another method may be required such as a felled seam. For simple, light-wearing trousers though, this method is great. Go on, have a go and keep your legs on trend!

Carefully pin the open seam together (right sides facing) and

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HOME

Stitchy Christmas card Want to send extra-special cards this year? Look no further than these simple stitched cards to show off your skills Project JO BOLAND

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: • www.thehomemakery. co.uk card blank • American Crafts cardstock • fabric scraps • glue • typewriter • black thread

QUICK XMAS GIFT IDEA

If you're making a large batch, this simple design makes it quick and easy to replicate HOW TO MAKE: Cut three 1” circles from your chosen fabric scraps. Decide where you’d like them positioned on the card, draw around them with a pencil and remove them.

Sew straight lines down the card front to represent the hanging strings of the baubles. You can back-stitch at each end but it’s best to pass the threads through to the WS and knot to secure.

Using a slow speed, sew the rough circles around the baubles using the pencil circles as a guideline. We did this three times for each bauble.

Adhere the fabric circles into position with glue, taking care not to use too much. It’s OK if the edges of the circles lift up a little as this creates a fun 3D effect.

You don’t need any special tools, just use your sewing machine the same way on cardstock and paper as you would on fabric but don’t use too short a stitch as it may cause the card to rip (2mm and above is best). Sewing through cardstock and paper

will dull the needle, so it’s a good idea to use an old needle for this project. You should also check that the tension on your machine is correct for sewing on cardstock and paper; too tight and you’ll tear your paper, too loose and it will be loopy on the back.

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L IA ! EC ER SPOFF

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quote ref. SNW1A to receive your 20% discount. or visit www.happypuzzle.co.uk/waxidoodles Send coupon and remittance to: WaxiDoodles Sew Now Offer

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Order Code Item: HPCWXD 1 x ‘Waxidoodles’ 20% OFF! HPCWXD 2 x ‘Waxidoodles’ SAVE £6! Standard Delivery (approx. 7 to 10 days) Please note that offer code also discounts delivery charge by 20% (regular p and p £4.95)

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Q&A Becky Clarke has written for a host of magazines, covering everything from home makeovers to sharing her fabulous sewing Becky tutorials. Keep up with her designs and projects over at www.beckyclarke.com

“I sat on my mum’s knee at her sewing machine, feeding the material through as she worked the pedal. I made a blue smock dress from a material with a printed patchwork pattern (it was 1974 so it was the height of fashion) and I remember loving everything about the process – being with my mum, making something that no one else had and the absolute pride of wearing it as often as I could. I loved that dress!”

Lisa

Lisa Comfort shares her passion for sewing through her London-based workshops and with her hugely successful vintage-inspired pattern company, Sew Over It. Explore her patterns at www. sewoverit.co.uk and her blog at www.lisacomfort.com

“Apart from the usual dolls' clothes made out of scraps when I was five, the first thing I sewed from a paper pattern was a bomber jacket when I was 14. It was made from lightweight wool suiting fabric and had elasticated sleeves, a gathered waistband and a zip fastening. I learned to have patience and to always challenge myself. I wore that jacket for years and wish I still had it today...”

Q&A What was the first thing you ever sewed? Sew Now chats to three successful sewists about what inspired them to get stitching

Ashley

Ashley Cramp is a craft, interior and fashion blogger with a love of all things creative. You can follow her latest travels, makes and styling tips at www.lazydaisyjones.com

“I learned to sew with my childminder when I was very young. We did lots of little hand-sewing projects, but the first item of clothing I remember making on my sewing machine was a skirt. It was probably terrible but I loved it and was so proud!”

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Use our creative kits to design & make fabulous products for your home using your covering of choice LIGHTING PRODUCTS Lampshade, Table or Floor Lamp Kits to match any room decor. Prices start from £9.99

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Cosy

Christmas cushion

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Dress up your home for Christmas or make a quick gift following these easy instructions Project CHRISTIANE BELLSTEDT MYERS Photography CAROLINE ARBER

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HOME SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 4 co-ordinating fabrics •• 28cm square of linen fabric for pillow centre •• 42cm square of backing fabric •• scrap of green gingham fabric •• fusible bonding web •• white, green, red and silver embroidery floss •• buttons •• silver jingle bell •• 40cm square feather pillow insert •• free templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

NOTES: Seam allowances are 2.5cm unless otherwise stated CUTTING: From each of the four fabrics, cut: 42x12cm strip HOW TO MAKE: Assemble four strips of fabric for the front of the pillow. Pin the first strip to the centre linen panel right sides together. Position the strip so that it overlaps the square by 1cm at one edge and by 12.5cm at the other side. Sew the pieces together, leaving a 1cm seam allowance. (See Pic A.) Repeat to add the next strip, then repeat. You should end up with a 42cm square.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the fusible bonding web to the wrong side of the green gingham fabric. Fold the fabric in half, place the template on the fold, and use a pencil to draw around the tree shape. Cut out the tree. (See Pic B.)

Peel the backing away from the back of the tree and lay onto the

right side of the linen square so that it is positioned in the centre of the pillow. (See Pic C.) Following the manufacturer’s instructions, use a hot iron to fuse the fabrics together.

Using blanket stitch and green embroidery floss, stitch neatly around the tree. Using red embroidery floss and running stitch, sew around the outside of the tree. (See Pic D.)

gap in one edge to insert the cushion form. Trim the seam allowance and press the seams open, then turn the cover right way out.

Insert the pillow form and then slip-stitch the opening closed.

Using silver embroidery floss, sew several buttons to the tree and add a silver bell to the top. Finally, create the illusion of snowflakes by stitching French knots over the surface of the linen fabric.

Place the front piece and backing piece right sides together and pin together. Sew all around the edges with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a

Adapted from Scandi Christmas by Christiane Bellstedt Myers £12.99, www.rylandpeters.com

Stitch guide French knots

A Bring your needle up through the fabric and wrap the thread around the needle two or three times. B Holding the thread taut, push the point of your needle back down through the fabric close to the start of the stitch. C Still keeping the thread taut on the RS of the work, pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface of the fabric.

Blanket stitch

Sashiko stitch

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If you’ve got the purse-making bug, take a look at our Oh Deer purse in issue 13 for more inspiration! Get your copy at www. moremags.com

WIN A PURSE-MAKING KIT FROM ALL SEWN UP

3 TO WIN!

Three lucky winners will each receive a kit to make a beautiful purse from All Sewn Up. The snap purse is a fantastic project and the �nished result can be a lovely reward to yourself or a fabulous gift for a friend. All Sewn Up is based in Wales and owned by seamstress to the stars Helen Rhiannon Gill who has a wealth of sewing knowledge and expertise. Visit www.allsewnupwales.co.uk to see more

WIN AN AMAZING FAT QUARTER BUNDLE WORTH OVER & BAG

£150

Two lucky winners will receive a beautiful bundle of fat quarters to see them through the winter months. These include Christmas fabric and stunning designs from the new Trim collection in an array of eye-catching colours. As well as this, you will receive a handy Sew Easy bag to store your fabric in! Contact groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk to �nd your local stockist.

WIN A 6 TO DRESSMAKING WIN! JOURNAL FROM SEW CRAFTY

The sewing notebook you have been waiting for – this journal will be your new sewing best friend. It’s specially designed for dressmakers, with dress form pages for sketching your clothing designs. Six winners will each receive one of these fab prizes. Go to www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk to see more.

DISCOUNTS &GIVEAWAYS Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help ﬁll your fabric stash

20% OFF THE PRYM LOVE RANGE AT MINERVA CRAFTS Sew Now readers can receive 20% o� the Prym Love range at Minerva with the code PRYMLOVE20. This handy collection features a fresh turquoise colour scheme, and is sure to make a stylish addition to your sewing room and fantastic gifts! Visit www.minervacrafts.com to �nd out more. O�er expires 31st December 2017

15% OFF THE CHESTNUT SWEATER PATTERN AT COCOWAWA CRAFTS

Winter is almost here so what better way to wrap up than by making your own super comfy sweater or top? Simply head to www.cocowawacrafts.com and use the code COCOWAWASEWNOW for an exclusive 15% discount. Perfect for a con�dent beginner, this pattern is ideal for thick knits, cable knit, knit �eece and more! O�er expires 14th December 2017

To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow15

Closing date: 14th December 2017. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only. By entering these competitions, you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities

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Exc�u�i�� fa��ic di�count

SAVE 25%

OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER ON ALL FABRICS AT FABRICSFORSALE WITH CODE SN15 The lovely folks at FabricsforSale are o�ering a 25% discount o� your �rst order. IN ORDER TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS EXCLUSIVE OFFER just go to www.fabricsforsale.co.uk to see beautiful premium and designer fabrics for clothing, upholstery and craft projects and use the exclusive code to save now. Be quick this o�er expires 24th December 2017.

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FREE PATTERN SKILLS TUTORIAL

Pleated skirt

Alison

waist inishes

There's not one but two waistband options on this month’s free McCall’s skirt pattern, and Alison Smith demonstrates both with her step-by-step tutorial 74

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TUTORIAL

Under stitching

his month’s pattern features an on-trend pleated skirt. In order to get a structured finish it's important that you choose a crisp fabric that will press into pleats and hold its shape. Once you have made the pleats, pressed them into shape and inserted the zip it’s time to tackle the waist. This pattern offers a facing or a shaped waistband – here are some tips for getting the best results

and under-stitch the seam allowance to the facing (this will help hold the facing to the inside). (See Pic D.)

ATTACHING A FACING

Make sure you have left a 1.5cm seam allowance above the zip pull. (See Pic A.)

Turn the facing to the inside. Turn under the short end, secure with pins and then hand-stitch. (See Pic E.)

ATTACHING A WAISTBAND

Cut the front and back waistband pieces from the skirt fabric and again from lining fabric – this is to reduce bulk. Interface the waistband sections and join them together at the side seams.

Interface the facings with woven interfacing, join the front to the backs, press the seams open and neaten the lower edge. (See Pic B.) Stitch across the pleats 1cm away from the raw edge to keep the pleats in place. Pin and stitch the facing to the waist edge – stitch just to the zip tape but not across it. (See Pic C.)

Layer the facing side of the seam, press the seam towards the waist

Attach the waistband to the skirt in the same manner as the facings, layer the seam and press towards the waistband. Join the lining waistband sections and place the lining to the waistband RS to RS. Pin and machine-stitch along the upper edge and along the short end, keeping in line with the edge of the zip. (See Pic F.)

Under stitching is a row of stitches that sits very close to the edge of a facing or seam to stop it from rolling towards the outside of a garment. It is commonly found around faced necklines, waistbands and to keep linings in place.

Under-stitching the waistband facing Open out the facing with the wrong side up. Press the seam allowance of the skirt towards the facing and pin in place. This will help the facing stay on the inside of the skirt. Stitch along the inside edge of the seam allowance as near as possible to the original seam line. Press the facing down towards the wrong side of the skirt.

Turn under the raw edge of the lining and pin so the fold is against the row of machine stitching. Pin and hand-stitch in place using a flat-fell stitch. (See Pic H.)

Attach hooks and eyes using a buttonhole stitch for strength. (See Pic I.)

Clip the corners, turn and press. (See Pic G.) W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Baby

changing bag

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KIDS

This compact change mat clutch is perfect for on-the-go mums, and is filled with plenty of handy pockets to make changing time a breeze! A

Project TESS & RAE www.tessandrae.com.au

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 84x33cm quilting cotton for exterior (Fabric A) •• 84x33cm contrasting colour fabric for interior (Fabric B) •• 20x55cm solid contrasting colour fabric pieces for flap closure (Fabric C) •• 2x1.5m cotton for pockets and pocket backing (Fabric D) •• 84x33cm high-loft fusible fleece •• medium or heavyweight interfacing for flap and pocket backings •• 4cm 2cm-wide hook and loop tape •• water-soluble fabric marker CUTTING: From Fabric C, cut: 2 7.6x25.4cm pieces From Fabric D, cut: 4 18x30.5cm pieces for pocket backing 2 18x25.4cm pieces for pockets FABRIC TYPES: You can use any home décor fabric for the exterior. For interior fabric, choose from quilting cotton, laminated cotton, fleece or plush microfiber fabric for babies NOTES: Seam allowance is 2cm throughout unless otherwise stated HOW TO MAKE: Lay the fusible fleece adhesive-side up on an ironing surface. Lay the exterior fabric right-side up on top of the fusible fleece. Iron these two layers together.

Cut the interfacing into pieces to match the size of the two flapclosure pieces and the four pocketbacking pieces. Iron the interfacing to each of the pieces.

The pockets are perfect for storing all the baby essentials

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rectangle. Mark an X shape through the rectangle and sew along the lines to securely attach the flap closure to the body of the mat. (See Pic C.)

6 C

For the pockets, fold one of the short edges over by 1.3cm on each pocket piece, then fold over again and sew in place. Place the two pocket backings right sides together with the pocket piece in the middle. Line up the pocket piece along the bottom edge. Sew around the bottom and two sides using a 1.3cm seam allowance, leaving the top edge open. Turn right side out and press, then top-stitch all the way around. (See Pic C.)

7 E

Sew the hook side of the hook and loop tape to the outside body of the mat. (See Pic A.)

Sew the soft loop side of the hook and loop tape to the right side of one of the flap closure pieces, approximately 2cm from the lower edge, making sure it is centred side to side. (See Pic B.)

For the closure flap, place the flap pieces right sides together. Sew around the pieces using a 6mm seam

allowance. Leave a gap around 4cm along one long side of the flap in the centre. Turn the flap piece right side out and make sure all four corners are neatly squared off. Iron and edge-stitch around the entire flap, ensuring that the gap has been closed during stitching. Attach the flap to the outside body of the mat. (See Pic C.) Pin the flap in place, making sure the hook and loop tape side is facing down. Use an erasable fabric pen, pencil or chalk to mark a 2cm-wide rectangle on the top edge of the flap. Sew around the

Attach the two pocket pieces to the outside body of the mat. (See Pic D.) Pin the pockets in place with the front of the pocket pieces facing downward so that they are on top of the outside of the mat. Be sure that the closure flap is also folded inward on top of the body of the mat.

Position the inside body of the mat face down on top of the outside body of the mat so that the right sides are together. Sew around all four sides using a 2.5cm seam allowance and leaving a 15cm gap, open on the lower edge of the mat. Turn the mat right side out and press, ensuring that the pocket pieces and the closure flap are in place. Edge-stitch around the mat, making sure the gap has been closed during stitching. (See Pic E.)

To use the mat, fold the pockets inwards onto the mat and, starting at the bottom, fold the clutch three times to engage the hook and loop flap closure. (See Pic F.)

Adapted from Mom Crafts by Lark Crafts ÂŁ17.99, available from www.thegmcgroup.com 78

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WIN

£150

a fabric bundle from Dark lilac organic cotton twill, £6 per metre

Amethyst and black wool boucle, £14 per metre

WIN THIS SELECTION OF FABRIC AND MORE! Berry and pink stripe sparkle, £12 per metre

Rose pink and white striped organic cotton interlock, £8 per metre

Orchid pink brushed-back organic cotton sweatshirt, £8 per metre

Stocked with a huge range of fabric from fun jersey to beautiful-quality wool, Fabworks is a one-stop shop for all your fabric needs. To celebrate the second birthday of its online store, one lucky winner will receive a huge fabric bundle worth £150, including a wide variety of designs in hues of pinks and purples, including the above fabric. See more at www.fabworks.co.uk

Top £39.50, trousers £45, www.marksandspencer.com

To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow15

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INSPIRATION

The

Prym Love range This month, we shine the spotlight on the fabulous Love range from Prym! Take a look at the full collection and find your local stockist at www.prym.com These sewing accessories make it easy to have a co-ordinated sewing room

SCISSOR HAPPY

These funky spotty scissors are suitable for cutting all kinds of fabric. The sturdy steel handles have a wonderful ergonomic design for maximum comfort. A brilliant pair of all-round scissors, the smart asymmetrical design also prevents fabric lifting or slipping as you cut, so you get a neat result every time.

Bethany MEASURE UP

This sweet mini tape measure has a running length of 150cm/60" and is the perfect mix of pretty and practical. It includes metric and imperial measurements to suit you and your project and is the ideal sewing room companion for all sorts of sewing, tailoring and handicraft projects. Plus, did we mention it's super cute?

STAY SHARP

With an asymmetrical end and rounded blunt tip, the new corner and edge sharpener is an invaluable addition for any sewist. It enables the moulding of corners, edges and curves without damaging any of your lovely fabric, unlike using scissors or knives. Once you've tried it you will wonder how you ever sewed without it!

TURN TO PAGE 71 FOR YOUR DISCOUNT ON THE PRYM LOVE RANGE AT MINERVA CRAFTS

RIP-ROARING FUN

Ideal for unpicking fabric seams, the most impressive feature of the stitch ripper with its sharp blade and rounded tip is the shape of its handle, making it easy and comfortable to use. The ergonomic grips are both soft and anti-slip, meaning you can unpick for long periods without your hand becoming tired.

A CUT ABOVE

Thanks to this handy thread cutter, you can immediately separate your different threads with ease. The satin band means you can hang it up or even wear it when not in use, making it easily accessible at all times. The oval design with multiple recesses protects the blade from damage and you from any nasty accidents. How clever!

SAFETY FIRST!

Protect your fingers from stray needles, seam rippers and rogue dressmaking pins with a delightful dotty thimble. It has been made from strong steel and the charming blue, white and red floral pattern means you can quickly spot it on your sewing table whenever you might need it.

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Sewing Patterns by Sewing Belle Ltd

www.sewingbelle.co.uk

25% OFF your order QUOTE SB25

Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items. Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

www.rooftopfabrics.com

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Monochrome

DINNER SET

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT DEBBIE ON PAGE 34

Debbie

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HOME

Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 5 fat quarters of different monochrome prints •• fat quarter solid fabric •• fat quarter Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• 3x10cm Champagne Threaders Glitter Fabric •• water-erasable fabric marker •• stamps •• Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink FINISHED SIZE: Coaster: 15cm square Placemat: 30cm square NOTES: Seam allowances are 0.5cm throughout unless otherwise stated The following instructions explain how to make one placemat and one coaster WOFQ – Width of fat quarter

Choose an ink that is permanent and washable so it won’t smudge

Dress up dinner time with this eyecatching coaster and placemat set

CUTTING: From solid fabric, cut: 10cm square for coaster 10cm square for placemat From the assorted monochrome fabric, cut: 2 5cmxWOFQ strips for coaster 10cm square for coaster backing 8 5cmxWOFQ strips for placemat 30cm square for coaster backing

From the Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding, cut: 10cm square for coaster 30cm square for placemat

From the glitter fabric, cut: 2 1.5x5cm strips HOW TO MAKE: Draw a 0.5cm seam allowance all the way around a 10cm solid coaster square. Use this to help position your stamp in the centre (See Pic A.) Then press the image to help set the ink.

Choose one monochrome coaster strip and attach it to the bottom of the stamped panel. (See Pic B.) Trim the excess away and save this bit for another coaster. (See Pic C.)

Leanne Choose another monochrome coaster strip and add it to the left-hand side. Trim and press. (See Pic D.) Repeat for the other coasters, taking care to mix up the different prints to create a co-ordinated yet scrappy feel.

5 6

Fuse a piece of H630 wadding to the back of each coaster.

Fold one strip of glitter fabric over to form a tab. Sew this to the coaster. (See Pic E.)

To finish the coasters, lay each one right sides together onto a piece of monochrome backing that is a little larger all around. (See Pic F.) Don’t trim just yet. Pin and sew around the outer edge, leaving a turning gap. Trim the backing and clip across the corners to reduce bulk. (See Pic G.) Turn out through the gap and press so that the edges are perfect. W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Get the look

For further details and stockist information for the fabric below, visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf

Quilt with concentric squares about 1cm apart and two squares deep. (See Pic H.)

Make the placemat the same way, but this time, build the monochrome log cabin around a centre square. You can make the placemat as large or as small as you wish simply by adding more strips to create a larger border. Ensure you use

Capsules Take Shape collection by Art Gallery Fabrics

more backing or wadding if you do this though. (See Pic I.)

10 11

Fold and sew on the second glitter strip to create a tab.

Back with a piece of monochrome fabric, then ďż˝nish the same way as the coasters. Quilt four rows this time. Adobe Clay Solid Smooth denim from the Denim Studio for Art Gallery Fabrics

Champagne Threaders Glitter Fabric ÂŁ6.99 per sheet from www.crafters companion.co.uk

Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding is available from www.ladysewandsew.co.uk

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What you’ve been

sewing...

We love seeing what you’ve been working on. Each month’s star make will receive a free bundle of fabric, handpicked by Mark at Girl Charlee

STAR MAKE

£25 WIN A

FABRIC BUNDLE FROM

Suzi made this adorable version of the Playtime Pixel Dress from issue 10. She says: “I didn’t bias bind, but did line it in a pink cotton. The silver fabric was a bit itchy for my little niece Lola’s (pictured) sixth birthday but she told me it was her favourite present!”

"This is my blouse with pleated sleeves I made from issue 11 using a spotty cotton fabric. It is simple to sew, easy to wear and feels lovely on. I'm really pleased and will de�nitely make another using the di�erent sleeve pattern." Sue

Take a look at Mel’s version of the Butterick 6130 jumpsuit from issue 13. We are very impressed by the neckline hack – it's gorgeous!

We love this denim version of the Cocoon dress free pattern from issue 8. We can see this one being a real wardrobe staple, and it looks so comfy – well done Marika!

Leanne This is a very festive version of the Cocoon dress from issue 8 by Simona. This will be her Christmas Day out�t – we love the festive feel with your green belt and ribbon, Simona!

Get in touch!

Email leanne.brocklehurst @practicalpublishing.co.uk Use #sewnowmag, tag us on Instagram at sewnowmag or post to www.facebook. com/sewnowmag W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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INSPIRATION

1 Louche Ives cardigan £30, www.joythestore.com

Silk cotton polo £90, www.jigsaw-online.com

Pink balloon-sleeve jumper £17.99, www.newlook.com

orSEW IT

SHOP IT

4 Ichi Levelle top £24, www.joythestore.com

1. The Juniper Cardigan Sizes 6-24, NZ $12.99 (approximately £7.06) www.jenniferlaurenhandmade.store

Bring a little warmth to your sewing with these cosy, high street-inspired makes

2. Kwik Sew 4069 Misses’ Tops Sizes XS-XL, £8.99 www.weaverdee.com

3. Zebre Butter�ysleeve sweatshirt Sizes 8-18, €15 (approximately £13.39) www.iampatterns.fr

4. Sew House Seven Toaster sweater Sizes XS-XXL, £18 www.raystitch.co.uk W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Sewing

WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you

NEWARK CRAFT HUB

Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire Newark Craft Hub is the home of Crafty Betty and The Fabric Daisy. It offers fabric, haberdashery, hand-crafted goods and a variety of sewing classes and craft workshops. www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk

2ND & 3RD DECEMBER Weekend onesie workshop Create a novelty animal-themed fleece onesie in adult or child size over a two-day course. Previous sewing experience necessary, includes lunch on both days. Cost: £99 9TH & 10TH DECEMBER The best craftiest Christmas weekend ever A weekend filled with festive craft and sewing workshops. From Santa sacks to jewellery making, there is something for everyone. Join special guest Tracey Symonds with her Christmas Jumper workshop. Cost: from £5 per workshop

BLUE BUTTON DESIGNS EMPORIUM

Sale, Greater Manchester Blue Button is an independent haberdashery selling fabric, wool and many things of a crafty nature. It also has a dedicated craft room for workshops. 07540 634351

21ST NOVEMBER Cushion with buttonhole fastening This three-hour beginner's workshop will teach you the basics of using and setting up a sewing machine, how to sew straight and how to construct a two-button fastening cushion. Cost: £42 28TH NOVEMBER Appliqué tote bag with button fastening Learn how to design and apply appliqué to fabric on this three-hour course. Sew buttonholes and learn how to construct a basic tote bag, with same-fabric handles. Cost: £45

EVERY SATURDAY AT 1PM Dressmaking Make your own clothes with The Fabric Daisy during this six-week course. Join in at any time and choose from a selection of patterns for adults or children. Cost: £120 EVERY SATURDAY AT 1PM Roman-blind making Learn how to make a fully lined Roman blind with Crafty Betty during this five-week course. Join in any time. Includes Roman blind kit up to 120cm wide. Cost: £140

5TH DECEMBER Patchwork by numbers Learn how to accurately cut patchwork shapes accurately using a rotary cutter, mat and easy ‘patchwork by numbers’ fusible wadding. All materials are provided for this project, which is suitable for beginners. Cost: £55 12TH DECEMBER Christmas bunting Get into the festive spirit with this three-hour beginner bunting workshop. Learn all the techniques required to make bunting for all seasons or one just for this Christmas time. Cost: £45

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WORKSHOPS

HANDMADE AT HAPPY HARE

Chapeltown, She�eld Happy Hare is an independent sewing store. It stocks a wide range of fabric from Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. It also o�ers classes in a variety of crafts and materials will be provided for all workshops. For sewing workshops you must be able to use a sewing machine with a reasonable level of skill. 0114 245 5996 handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk www.handmadehappyhare.com

ABAKHAN

North West Abakhan prides itself on o�ering value for money throughout the vast range of fabric, yarn, crafts, sewing accessories and haberdashery on o�er. It is committed to sourcing the best products at the best prices for customers and frequently has stock lots, clearance parcels and special o�ers available. www.abakhan.co.uk 21ST NOVEMBER Pattern cutting – styling adaptations for bodices class – Altrincham Learn the basic principles involved in pattern drafting. With guidance follow instruction to pivot darts to a new position and make adaptations to create new styling details e.g. princess line, yoke, cowl, capped sleeve (in ¼ scale for easy practice and reference) All resources and reference handouts included. Cost: £45 29TH NOVEMBER Secrets of a designer-style jacket – Mostyn During this one-day workshop you will be introduced to the classic techniques that produce a wonderful cardigan-style jacket. These include shaping fabric by steam-shrinking, underlining, attaching stays and quilting the lining. A variety of handstitches will be taught and a number of samples made for future reference. Cost: £45

1ST DECEMBER Make a jersey wrap dress – Liverpool Come along and join Paul from Series 3 of The Great British Sewing Bee in making a comfortable and stylish wrapover jersey knit dress. Using Simplicity pattern 1653, this class is perfect to learn how to work with stretch fabric to create a great all-rounder dress for your wardrobe! Cost: £45 9TH DECEMBER Gingerbread men garland – Mostyn These little chaps look good enough to eat and will bring a smile to your face at Christmas; the hearts will add a Scandi touch to your home. You make a complete garland sure to impress visitors. Cost: £40

2ND DECEMBER Christmas gift-making day Dog bandana: £15, In�nity scarf: £20, Christmas bedtime Story cushion: £25. Join us to make a range of Christmas gifts. Book individual classes, or book all three classes for a special discounted rate. Cost: projects are individually priced or £50 for all three classes

9TH & 10TH DECEMBER Christmas quilt Make a gorgeous 3RD DECEMBER Beginner’s needle felting – Christmas quilt using �ying geese blocks and Christmas robin appliqué to add interest This is suitable for and texture. absolute beginners. Cost: £75 Try needle felting to make a lovely robin. It’s 16TH DECEMBER very therapeutic! Christmas geranium Cost: £20 child’s dress - made by Rae pattern An excellent �rst dressmaking class. Pattern sizes range from newborn to �ve years. A variety of fabric, including Christmas materials, will be included. Cost: £40

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Behind the SEAMS Whatever your level of expertise, step up your skills with our handy guide to fabric, ﬁnishes and patterns

Simple seam ﬁnishes

FRENCH SEAMS

This construction technique and seam �nish is perfect for lightweight or sheer fabric.

PINKING SHEARS

Simply trim your seam allowance edges with pinking shears after the seam has been sewn. Do not trim before sewing the seam unless you have marked the stitching line. The zigzag edge will prevent fabric from fraying.

(WS)

TOP-STITCHED EDGES

Start with a sewn seam that has been pressed open. Press each seam allowance under by ⅛" to the WS and top-stitch each seam allowance edge to secure the raw edge underneath.

(WS)

How to make:

Place fabrics WST. Sew a ⅜" seam allowance from the raw edge and trim to ⅛".

ZIGZAG FINISH

This can be used before or after a seam has been sewn. Sew through the seam allowance only, close to each raw edge with a zigzag stitch and press to set the stitches. The stitch should neatly fall at or just o� the edge.

(WS)

Press open the seam and press over with RST. Sew a second seam ¼" from the edge. This will trap the seam allowance edges behind the second line of stitching.

HONG KONG SEAMS

Also known as ‘bound seams’, these feature the application of double-fold bias tape after every seam is sewn, before moving onto the next construction step.

How to make:

Sew a straight seam and press open. Press one side of the bias tape open and pin it along the edge of one seam allowance with RST. Sew along the crease to attach the seam allowance and bias tape together.

Wrap the bias tape around the edge of the seam allowance and pin in place so the tape sits just over the sewn stitching line.

Secure by stitching in the ditch or just to the inside of the original stitching to catch the folded bias tape on the back of the seam. Sew

only through the bias tape and seam allowance, not garment. Repeat on remaining seam allowance to �nish.

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TUTORIAL

Reading a dressmaking pattern CIRCLE DOTS

These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the end-of-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE

Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE

The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

DARTS

Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

NOTCHES

Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.

The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line.

PLACE ON FOLD LINE

This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.

Abbreviations

SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT) LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)

Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Understanding fabric When you first start sewing, understanding different types of fabric and what they can be used for will help you achieve a professional finish. If you’re not familiar with a fabric, seek it out in your local fabric shop, ask for a swatch and keep a fabric notebook that you can refer back to.

Lightweight woven fabric This is a popular choice for any level of sewist and most often used for dressmaking, although it is also suitable for a wide variety of home and decorative makes. Calico is coarser to the touch than cotton and usually has a creamy, unbleached look. Chambray is similar in appearance to denim but lighter and more breathable. Cotton is smooth and crisp to the touch, strong and stretches on the bias. Lawn is fine, crisp cotton that can be slightly transparent and silky to the touch. Linen is very absorbent and strong with a visible weave and creases easily. Muslin is fine and soft with a visible weave, most commonly seen in white and cream. Poly cotton is not as smooth as cotton, but is strong and doesn’t crease as easily. Poplin is a durable, tightly woven fabric that doesn’t crease easily. Seersucker is crinkled in appearance, fine and breathable.

a nap, so the fabric must cut with the nap going in the right direction. Fleece is soft, breathable and synthetic and both sides appear the same. Medium-weight cotton has a slightly stiffer feel than lightweight cotton and is more durable. Velvet has a rich, luxurious feel with a raised pile and nap. Vinyl/oilcloth has a synthetic, plastic feel and is waterproof and durable with a strong backing fabric.

This is s most suited to projects that require a little more durability and is often used in home furnishings and jackets and coats. Corduroy is vertically ridged with ‘wales’ and is soft and flattering with a nap. Flannel is fluffy and soft to touch and has

You‘ll definitely find a knitted fabric garment somewhere in your wardrobe, whether it’s a plain T- shirt, vest top or a fitted dress. Knitted fabric comes in a range of weights and contains fibres such as polyester or nylon that make them stretch in a different way to woven fabric. Zigzag stitch

Elastic stitch

Heavyweight fabric This is made to last and is commonly used in projects that experience lots of wear and tear. They can be found in everything from bags to upholstery and winter clothing – think jeans, jackets and skirts!

Medium-weight woven fabric

Sewing with knitted fabric

Canvas is tightly woven, strong and very hardwearing. Denim is hardwearing, durable and doesn’t crease easily. Faux leather looks like leather but is made from synthetic fibres. Leather is durable, flexible and natural and can be coarse or soft to the touch. Suede is soft and natural with a nap and is strong and durable. Tweed is rough, with an unfinished feel from natural wool fibres. Wool this natural, dense fabric doesn’t crease and is absorbent.

When sewing jersey, use a ballpoint needle and the appropriate stitches on your machine. Most machines have a straight stretch stitch (also known as a tricot stitch) and a stretch zigzag stitch used for finishing fabric edges.

Interfacing

Interfacing is almost as important as the fabric itself and choosing the right one for your project will provide structure and support. It’s available in two types, sew in and fusible, and in a variety of weights, from ultra soft for delicate fabric such as satin or silk to heavy for use with canvas in bag making to give a rigid structure.

Sew-in interfacing will allow lightweight fabric to drape independently and allow you trim away bulk in the seams whereas fusible interfacing will give structure to seams as well as the project itself, adding extra strength. Remember to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the best results.

WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK

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THE SEWING SHOP BEVERLEY

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ﬁnd exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

DUMFRIES

BRISTOL

CLITHEROE

Classes for all abilities including: • Pattern cutting • Bra or corset making • Dressmaking • Private tuition also available

Sewing Workshops Sewing Parties and Afternoon Teas Sewing Club Sewing Machine Servicing and Repairs Buy and sell second hand machines Children’s Sewing Workshops 1 to 1 Lessons Customised Gifts and Items

Take a look at my website for my wide range of subjects

See my website for more www.sewnjo.com Phone: 07760 330843

www.seweasybristol.com 07946176982 info@seweasybristol.com www.facebook.com/SewEasyBristol

DURHAM

Romy's Sewing Rooms

Markeaton Park Craft Village, Derby, DE22 3BG

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com

www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops. Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

LEICESTERSHIRE

Visit us at...

for s e w i n g w o r k s h o p s , fabrics & haberdashery

LINCOLNSHIRE

116 Castle Street, Hinckley, Leicestershire , LE10 1DD 0 1 4 5 5 6 9 8 0 3 4 w w w. t h e s e w i n g c a f e . c o . u k

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10

SHEFFIELD

SOMERSET

SUFFOLK

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

SCOTLAND

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

Tel: 01252 444220

www.sew-busy.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE Reads of Winchester

For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

HAMPSHIRE

DERBY

9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

Crafty Baba Fabrics 32 St Peters St, Ipswich WAY ST Y L E , YO U R S E W I N G YO U R

Teach Me to Sew Sewing Classes for all 11 Brook Rd Stansted CM24 8BB www.teachmetosew.co.uk tel. 07752209936

Over 1000 lines of fabric & haberdash craftybaba.co.uk Tel 01473 210636

To advertise in Sew Now, call Noune on 0161 474 6997 W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Master your

machine

Each machine model oﬀers a range of features and functions, but all have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide and you’ll know your way around yours in no time 1

THREAD GUIDES

Two threads make up each stitch – the top thread and the bobbin thread. The top thread from the spool of cotton passes through the thread guide, which regulates the tension of the thread before it’s fed through the needle.

SPEED CONTROLLER

A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when the pedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.

REVERSE FUNCTION

Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to move backwards across a stitched line. This function is used when securing the threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.

NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP

The needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety of types and sizes to suit your project. The needle is held in place by the clamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and loosening the clamp to access the needle.

PRESSER FOOT LIFTER

For lifting and lowering to hold the fabric in place while you sew. Release it to remove the fabric from the machine.

BOBBIN CASE

Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, which houses the bobbin. The bobbin is wound with thread and provides the second thread for each stitch.

FEED DOGS

These moving parts lie underneath the needle plate. With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, these help to move the fabric through the machine.

PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL

Used for releasing/increasing the weight of the foot on the fabric, for example when working appliqué. You can release the pressure to enable you to turn the fabric smoothly.

5 7

NEEDLE PLATE

The metal plate directly below the needle and presser foot. The small opening allows the thread from the bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make the stitches. On the plate are guide markings to assist straight sewing and measure seam allowances.

“If you're struggling with the threading on a new machine, practise with red thread until you get the hang of it”

Jeanette

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TUTORIAL BOBBIN WINDER

Trouble with tension?

Winds thread from the cotton spool onto the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the correct tension.

Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. If these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also check that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make even stitches. Another good tip is to use the same thread in the machine and the bobbin – even slightly di�erent threads can unbalance the tension

SPOOL HOLDER

This pin runs through the centre of a spool of thread, allowing it to feed smoothly through the machine.

SCREEN

Displays the relevant information regarding the stitch style, width and length that has been selected.

HAND WHEEL

Manually operates the mechanics of the machine, moving the needle up and down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer, computerised machines also have a needle up/ down button which can be programmed to stay in the down position – ideal for pivoting on corners.

STITCH SELECTOR

Allows you to select from the di�erent stitches on the machine and includes a menu from which you make your selection. The stitch is selected by pressing the relevant button and the number will appear on the screen.

STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH SELECTORS

15 14

Use to increase or decrease the length or width of your stitch. The shorter the stitch, the more stitches are worked across the line of sewing, making it stronger. The width applies to stitches where the needle moves from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch. Adjusting the width button will also move the needle position, which is important when sewing in zips and piping etc.

FREE ARM

This is a narrower working space created when the accessory box is removed. This is perfect for sewing smaller items or inserting sleeves.

ACCESSORY DRAWER

Use to store alternative presser feet, spare bobbins and maintenance tools.

START/STOP BUTTON

This allows you to operate the machine without the foot pedal.

THREAD CUT BUTTON

This will cut the threads after sewing and is highlighted in the screen with the thread cutter mark. W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Get set for the

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ISSUE 16 ON SALE 7TH DECEMBER

EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Leanne Brocklehurst Art Editors Simon Kay, Sher Ree Tai Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Chantelle Salkeld Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Contributors Jeanette Archer, Elaine Bell, Christiane Bellstedt Myers, Julia Claridge, Lisa Comfort, Ashley Cramp, Claire Garside, Louisa Goult, Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Jamie Kemp, Alison Smith MBE, Tess & Rae ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Other enquiries 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk DISTRIBUTION Seymour Distribution Ltd CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material © Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints.

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BACK-PAGE BLOGGER

What a great fabric choice!

5 minutes with…

Highball Emy Highball Emy talks to Sew Now about her favourite patterns and her sewing style Hi there! How are you today and what’s on your sewing table? Hi! I’m doing well. There is an almostfinished Sew Over It Anderson blouse Highball Emy on my sewing table – I only need to do the buttons and buttonholes on the cuffs, but I am scared of buttonholes so I keep putting it off! How would you describe your style? Workwear meets vintage meets nautical, with a lot of fun prints. I used to be quite strict about everything I wore fitting with a particular aesthetic, but I am much more likely to stray from my usual style if I see something I like these days. Why did you start sewing? I felt my life was turning into a blur of commuting, office work and watching TV. I decided I needed a hobby and I’d always loved the idea of being able to make my own clothes. I bought a secondhand sewing machine and a copy of Lauren Guthrie’s Learn to Sew with Lauren and off I went!

What’s on your to-sew list for the coming months? The Simple Sew Sienna dress in a beautiful floral rayon and a couple of Colette Sorbetto tops in pretty prints for layering, and maybe something for Christmas in red velvet! Are there any skills and techniques that you’re looking to master in the near future? I would love to make a proper shirt with all the serious stuff – dare I say plackets?! What's your go-to pattern? The Simple Sew Zoe dress – I have five versions of the dress and a top all made from this pattern, which I got with the first issue of Sew Now! Are you a big pattern house girl, an indie girl or a mix of both? An indie girl who dabbles in the big pattern houses. Can you share with us your favourite fabric for autumn/winter? Red wool! I would love to make a super glam red wool coat with a dramatic collar one day. What’s your favourite ready-to-wear brand and why? I am a huge fan of M&S – its basics are great. If I were a rich girl I’d shop at Hobbs and Oliver Bonas.

Learn to Sew with Lauren by Lauren Guthrie £25, www. octopusbooks.co.uk

A very vintage look indeed!

What’s your favourite colour to wear? Black is the new black. If you could give a piece of advice to a newbie sewist what would it be? Be patient! If you have to make 20 cushion covers you never use to get the hang of stitching a straight line, do it – you won’t regret it once you are making amazing dresses.

Simple Sew’s Zoe Dress, all the way from the very first issue of Sew Now! £10, www.simplesew.com

Red boiled wool £19.95 per metre, www. myfabrics.co.uk

"Be patient! If you have to make 20 cushion covers you never use to get the hang of stitching a straight line, do it – you won’t regret it once you are making amazing dresses" Could we have a peep at your sewing space? I don’t have one – my machine has to come out whenever I’m using it. I live in London so I don’t have a lot of space! Your favourite sewing sustenance? I don’t really eat while I sew but I like to have a glass of white wine to hand. Where can we find out more about you? You can visit my blog at www. highballemy.wordpress.com or follow me on Instagram highballemy19.

WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK

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English Garden

A Quilting Cotton Collection Internationally recognised as a leader in print design and textiles, Liberty Fabrics have been creating original and inspiring designs since 1875.

‘The English Garden’ is a collection of floral designs created specifically for quilting. Some of the printed designs are redrawn artworks from our archive, their roots dating back to the early 1900s.

The base quality ‘Lasenby’ Cotton is 100% cotton quality specifically woven for sewers.

The collection of coordinating accessories include pin cushions, sewing boxes and scissor pouches and make a perfect gift for any quilting enthusiast.

To find your local stockist visit www.eqsuk.com or call 0116 271 0033 Proudly distributed by EQS Ltd.

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Direct Sewing Machines, Bristol – 0117 9778216 BSK Limited, Bedford – 01234 217096 My Sewing Basket, Dunstable – 01582 371127 Tudor Rose Patchwork, Oakley, Bedford – 01234 824983 BERKSHIRE Sew Devine, Reading – 0118 926 8664 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE Alans Sewing Machines, High Wycombe – 01494 527600 Threads and Patches, Milton Keynes – 01908 649687 CAMBRIDGESHIRE Sew Creative Ltd, Cambridge – 01223 350691 Sew Much To Do, Ely – 01353 664 000 CHESHIRE Allan Sheen Sewing Machines, Winsford – 01606 593554 All Fabrics, Stalybridge – 0161 478 8236/01706 624 651 Jaycotts, Chester – 01244 394099 J & P Sewing Machines, Warrington – 01925 633 831 Phil Morton Sewing Machines, Macclesfield – 01625 433 131 CORNWALL The Sewing Studio, Redruth – 01209 216942 DERBYSHIRE Elegance, Derby – 01332 382292 Ilkeston Sewing & Janome Centre, Ilkeston – 01159 307664 DEVON Exeter Sewing Machine Company, Exeter – 01392 275 660 Soft Touch Needlecrafts, Tavistock – 01822 617673 DORSET Bournemouth Sewing Machines, Bournemouth – 01202 424825 Hansons Fabrics, Sturminster Newton – 01258 472698 So N Sews, Weymouth – 01305 766 411 DURHAM UK Sewing Machines, Darlington – 01325 463 630 ESSEX Creative Lady, Burnham on Crouch – 01621 928 225 Franklins, Colchester – 01206 563955 & 574758 Franklins, Chelmsford – 01245 346300 Home of Sewing by Regent, Ilford – 0208 478 0669 Superstitch Machine Co, Leigh on Sea – 01702 478830 GLOUCESTERSHIRE Cotswold Sewing Machines, Stroud – 01453 763660 West End Sewing Centre, Cheltenham – 01242 244025 HAMPSHIRE Eastleigh Sewing Centre, Eastleigh – 02380 650 808 Hampshire Sewing Machines, Fareham – 01329 280499 Reads of Winchester, Winchester – 01962 850 950 Sew Creative, Petersfield – 01730 858020 HEREFORDSHIRE Badder Fabrics, Hereford – 01432 379137 HERTFORDSHIRE Chicks Embroidery, Letchworth – 01462 670 007 Rebecca Woollard Sewing School, Hatfield Heath – 07887 654 717 Rona Sewing Machines, Waltham Cross – 01992 640250 Sewfine Sewing Machines, Watford – 01923 693734 KENT Ashford Sewing Centre, Ashford – 01233 620948 Barcham Sewing Centre, Whitstable – 01227 264 271 Maidstone Sewing Centre, Maidstone – 01622 670 254 The Sewing Space. Kent – 01303 261329 The World of Sewing, Tunbridge Wells – 01892 533188 LANCASHIRE Etty-Lilly, Carnforth – 01524 734713 Hobkirk Sewing Machines, Blackburn – 01254 693555 Lestan Sewing Machines, Nelson – 01282 614511 M & S Sewing Machines, Heywood – 01706 624651 & 366943 R. Bullock & Son Ltd, Wigan – 01942 247836 Transworld Sewing Machines, Leigh – 01942 608028 LEICESTERSHIRE Cresswell Sewing Machines, Leicester – 07979 798 010 The Sewing Café, Hinkley – 01455 698 034 LINCOLNSHIRE Couling Sewing Machines, Lincoln – 01522 521841 Seweezy, Gainsborough – 01427 614570 LONDON (GTR) All London Sewing, South West London – 0208 3373444 Lewisham & Deptford Sewing Machines, Deptford – 0208 692 1077 SM Sewing Machines Ltd, London – 0208 4524257 The Sewing Centre, Battersea – 0207 228 3022 The World of Sewing, Pratts Bottom – 01689 638638 Wimbledon Sewing Machine Co Ltd, Tooting Bec – 020 8767 0036 MANCHESTER (GTR) Bamber Sewing Machines, Manchester – 0161 707 7786 MERSEYSIDE Affordable Sewing, Moreton, Wirral – 0151 677 7755 Sewing & Knitting Centre, Southport – 01704 534688 NORFOLK Sew Creative, Norwich – 01603 305888 Sewing Machine World, Kings Lynn – 01553 773362 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Sew Northampton, Northampton – 01604 637200 NOTTINGHAMSHIRE Cresswell Sewing Machines, Nottingham – 0115 9267572 OXFORDSHIRE Witney Sewing Machine Centre, Witney – 01993 704535 SHROPSHIRE Sewing Machine Centre, Shrewsbury – 01743 343902 SOMERSET Bredons Sewing Machines, Taunton – 01823 272450 SUFFOLK Franklins, Ipswich – 01473 221188 Sew Much To Do, Bury St Edmunds – 01284 755459 SURREY All Redgwell Sewing, Worcester Park – 0208 3373444 C & A Sewing Machines, Cranleigh – 01483 267777 Discount Sewing Machines, Lightwater – 01932 349000 Woking Sewing Centre, Addlestone – 01932 352606 Woking Sewing Centre, Newhaw – 01932 352958 SUSSEX Clothkits Ltd, Chichester – 01243 533180 Eclectic Maker, Worthing – 01903 681000 Hastings Sewing Centre, Hastings – 01424 423108 TYNE & WEAR G Tully Sewing Machines, Sunderland – 0191 565 7995 Sewing Machine Sales, Whitley Bay – 0191 2525825 WARWICKSHIRE Coventry Sewing Centre, Coventry – 02476 222134 WILTSHIRE Franklins, Salisbury – 01722 554466 Nimble Thimbles, Swindon – 01793 950 750 WEST MIDLANDS Brewers Sewing Machines, Wolverhampton – 01902 458885 D C Nutt Sewing Machines, Walsall – 01922 497603 Frank Nutt, Kings Heath - 0121 444 3978 L & M Nutt, Sutton Coldfield - 0121 373 5497 S Nutt Sewing Machines, Birmingham - 0121 327 2828

AUTUMN 2017

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100www.janome.co.uk WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK SN15.P100.indd 100 5271 - SWS Autumn 17 Dealer Ad [220x300].indd 1

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27/10/2017 14:07 24/08/2017 11:12