Photographing North Wales

A PHOTO-LOCATION GUIDEBOOK

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

NORTH WALES SNOWDONIA • ANGLESEY • THE COAST • LLYN PENINSULA • LLANGOLLEN

SIMON KITCHIN

A PHOTO-LOCATION GUIDEBOOK

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

NORTH WALES SNOWDONIA • ANGLESEY • THE COAST • LLYN PENINSULA • LLANGOLLEN

SIMON KITCHIN

PHOTOGRAPHING NORTH WALES

by Simon Kitchin First published in the United Kingdom in 2015 by fotoVUE. www.fotovue.com

Copyright © fotoVUE Limited 2015 Text and Photography: Copyright © Simon Kitchin 2015 Additional text and photography: Copyright © fotoVUE Ltd Foreword: Copyright © Iolo Williams 2015.

Simon Kitchin has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher, except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

TRADEMARKS: fotoVUE and the fotoVUE wordmark are the registered trademarks of fotoVUE Ltd. Edited by Stuart Holmes and Michael Ryan, fotoVUE Ltd. Book design at Mountain Creative. www.mountaincreative.co.uk Cover design by Nathan Ryder – Vertebrate Graphics. www.v-graphics.co.uk All maps within this publication were produced by Don Williams of Bute Cartographics Maps contain Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2015.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978-0-9929051-1-8 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The author, publisher and others involved in the design and publication of this guide book accept no responsibility for any loss or damage users may suffer as a result of using this book. Users of this book are responsible for their own safety and use the information herein at their own risk. Users should always be aware of weather forecasts, conditions, time of day and their own ability before venturing out.

Front cover: February sunset at Twr Mawr lighthouse, Llanddwyn Island, Anglesey.

Samsung GX10, Sigma 17-70 at 19mm, 1/6 sec @ f/16, ISO 200, tripod.

Rear cover: Left: Autumn splendour at Pistyll Rhaeadr (page 262).

Right: Thomas the Tank Engine day at Berwyn Station, Llangollen Railway (page 272).

Printed and bound in Europe by Latitude Press Ltd.

CONTENTS

Acknowledgements 7 Foreword by Iolo Williams,

8

Welsh naturalist and TV presenter

SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

SNOWDONIA EAST

Introduction and Area Map

Introduction and Area Map

92

1.

Llynnau Mymbyr/ Snowdon view

96

2.

Capel Curig Pinnacles

3.

Afon Llugwy, Betws-y-Coed

100

4.

Llyn Crafnant

104

5.

Fairy Glen, Betws-y-Coed 106

6.

Rhiw Fachno and Rhiw Bach Slate Quarries

26

Introduction 10

1

Llyn Padarn

30

Getting to and around North Wales

2

National Slate Museum, Llanberis

32

3

Vivian Trail and Dinorwic Quarry

36

14

North Wales Weather and Seasonal Highlights

16

Finding a Location

20

4

Llanberis Pass

40

The Welsh Language – Cymraeg 22

5.

Snowdon Miners Track/Llyn Llydaw

44

6.

Snowdon Summit

48

7.

Llyn Ogwen and Ogwen Falls

54

8.

Cwm Idwal

58

9.

Glyder Fach

Locations Overview

6

24

98

108

SNOWDONIA SOUTH Introduction and Area Map

110

1.

Cwm Pennant

112

62

2.

Cwmystradllyn

116

10. Snowdon View and Llyn Gwynant

66

3.

Portmeirion

118

11. Watkin Path

72

4.

Cwm Bychan

124

12. Llyn Dinas

76

5.

Pistyll Cain and Rhaeadr Mawddach

126

13. Craflwyn

78

6.

Mawddach Estuary

130

14. Llyn Dywarchen and Llyn-y-Gader

82

7.

Llynnau Cregennen

134

15. Aberglaslyn Pass

86

8.

Mach Loop – Cad West and Cad East

138

16. Cwmorthin Slate Quarry

90

9.

Cadair Idris, Tal-y-Llyn and Dolgoch Falls

142

NORTH COAST

OTHER SECTIONS

Introduction and Area Map

LLYN PENINSULA 146

Introduction and Area Map

214

266

1.

Dinas Dinlle

150

1.

Aber Falls

216

North Wales Coastal Sunset Locations

2.

Trefor

152

2.

Jubilee Path, Penmaenmawr

218

Heritage Railways

274

Historic Houses, Castles and Gardens

276

Shows and Events

280

3.

Yr Eifl and Nant Gwrtheyrn 156

4.

Porthdinllaen

160

3.

Conwy Mountain

220

5.

Whistling Sands

166

4.

Conwy

224

6.

Aberdaron and Bardsey Island

168

5.

Llandudno

228

6.

Bodnant Gardens

232

Criccieth Castle

174

7.

ANGLESEY AND MENAI Introduction and Area Map

Wildlife 282 About FotoVUE

286

NORTH EAST WALES Introduction and Area Map

234

176

1.

Dee Estuary

238

The Clwydian Hills

244

1.

Caernarfon Castle

180

2.

2.

Menai Suspension Bridge 184

3.

The Clywedog Valley

246

3.

Penmon Point and Priory 190

4.

Pontcysyllte Aquaduct

250

4.

Parys Mountain

192

5.

Llangollen Town

252

5.

North West Coast

196

6.

Castell Dinas Bran

256

Around Llantysilio

258

Pistyll Rhaeadr

262

6.

South Stack

202

7.

7.

St. Cwyfans Church

206

8.

8.

Llanddwyn Beach and Island

210

7

North Wales Foreword by Iolo Williams North Wales is a land of myths, legends and mystical beasts, the rugged heart of Welsh Wales with a landscape of high mountains, deep valleys and a dramatic coastline. The Ordovices of Dinorwig in Snowdonia challenged the might of the Roman army and this is where ancient battles between Welsh princes and English kings have now given way to peace and tranquility.

This is a place of rich history and incredible natural beauty.

Snowdonia boasts 15 peaks that climb to more than 3,000 feet above sea level. A majestic land where sheep and shepherds live alongside ravens and red kites and where every crag and every stream has a story to tell.

Over the centuries its beauty has inspired poets, artists and scientists to unlock the mysteries of life, Charles Darwin amongst many others.

Today, it is a place of home, work and recreation. We enjoy its paths and views, kayak its wilder rivers and cycle its tracks every year, drawn equally by its beauty and its danger. Farmers and foresters, wardens and guides eke out a living on its high tops and valley sides and yet the wildlife continues to flourish in the quiet, hidden areas.

North Wales is like an unpredictable best friend, sometimes sunny, sometimes gloomy, sometimes dangerous and unpredictable, sometimes light and welcoming. The art of the photographer is to capture these ever-changing moods using the landscape and its characters. This book has done just that. My advice to you is simple; get out there and explore with your camera, there is no greater joy.

Iolo Williams Welsh naturalist and TV presenter July 2015

Autumn sunrise at Llyn Padarn Nikon D800 with 16-35 at 16mm, ISO 100, 0.8s @ F16, tripod

10

Locations Overview SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

26

SNOWDONIA SOUTH

110

1

Llyn Padarn

30

1

Cwm Pennant

112

2

National Slate Museum, Llanberis

32

2

Cwmystradllyn

116

3

Portmeirion

118

3

Vivian Trail & Dinorwic Quarry

36

4

Cwm Bychan

124

4

Llanberis Pass

40

5

Pistyll Cain and Rhaeadr Mawddach

126

5

Snowdon Miners Track/Llyn Llydaw

44

6

Mawddach Estuary

130

6

Snowdon Summit

48

7

Llynnau Cregennen

134

7

Llyn Ogwen and Ogwen Falls

54

8

Mach Loop – Cad West and Cad East

138

8

Cwm Idwal

58

9

Glyder Fach

62

Cadair Idris, Tal-y-Llyn and Dolgoch Falls

142

9 10

Snowdon View and Llyn Gwynant

52

11

Watkin Path

66

12

Llyn Dinas

72

13

Craflwyn

78

14

Llyn Dywarchen and Llyn-y Gader

82

15

Aberglaslyn Pass

86

16

Cwmorthin Slate Quarry

90

SNOWDONIA EAST

92

1

Llynnau Mymbyr/Snowdon view

96

2

Capel Curig Pinnacles

98

3

Afon Llugwy, Betws-y-Coed

100

4

Llyn Crafnant

104

5

Fairy Glen, Betws-y-Coed

106

6

Rhiw Fachno & Rhiw Bach Slate Quarries

108

26

THE LOCATIONS

LLYN PENINSULA

146

1

Dinas Dinlle

150

2

Trefor

152

3

Yr Eifl and Nant Gwrtheyrn

156

4

Porthdinllaen

160

5

Whistling Sands

166

6

Aberdaron and Bardsey Island

168

7

Criccieth Castle

174

ANGLESEY AND MENAI

176

1

Caernarfon castle

180

2

Menai Suspension Bridge

184

3

Penmon Point and Priory

190

4

Parys mountain

192

5

North West Coast

196

6

South Stack

202

7

St. Cwyfans Church

206

8

Llanddwyn Beach and Island

210

7

Liverpool A5025

Llangefni A5 Menai A55 Bridge

4

Colwyn Bay

Caernarfon

8

1

Morfa Nefyn

A487 A499 Criccieth A497

A499

7

6

Harlech

4

Cardigan Bay

A525 Llyn Brenig

Queensferry Mold

2

A494

Ruthin

A541 A483

A5041

3 Wrexham

A542

7

River Dee

Corwen

Llangollen

6

4

5

Snowdonia A470 National 5 Park

Y Bala

A5

8

Llyn Tegid

Oswestry

A494 A5

Cambrian Coast Line

6

7 Dolgellau Cadair Idris

9

1000m +

250 - 500m

Denbigh

A544

Llanrwst

A496

Barmouth

750 - 1000m 500 - 750m

A548

Llyn Trawsfynydd

Abersoch

Mallwyd

8

Tywyn

fi Dy

A495

A458

Welshpool

A470 on Af

A483

A490

A470

A487 A493

5

A55

Celyn

3

A41

M53 A540

Holywell

A541

Trawsfynydd A4212 Llyn

Porthmadog

A548

6 Conwy Valley Line

1

6

Pwllheli

4

4

A55

3 2 8 9 3 A470 A543 2 1 4 Betws-y-Coed 5 Snowdon 5 A498 11 10 14 6 13 A5 Parc 12 Blaenau 16 Ffestiniog Cenedlaethol 15 1 Eryri 2

A4085

1

3

Aberdaron

2

7

2

5

^ Llyn Peninsula

A55

3

A5151

Abergele

3

A4080

Caernarfon Bay

4

A545 2 Bangor

1 7

N

Beaumaris

2a 2

Prestatyn Rhyl

Llandudno

A fo n C o n wy

Rhosneigr

5

5

Puffin Island

Conwy

Trearddur

miles

3

1

Hoylake

1

Afon

6

Birkenhead

4

Anglesey/ Ynys Mon

Holyhead

0

Irish Sea

Amlwch

5

Llanfair Caereinion

fi Dy

A489

Machynlleth

A490

A470 A483

0 - 250m

NORTH COAST

214

NORTH EAST WALES

234

1

Aber Falls

216

1

Dee Estuary

238

2

Jubilee Path, Penmaenmawr

218

2

The Clwydian Hills

244

3

Conwy Mountain

220

3

The Clywedog Valley

246

4

Conwy

224

4

Pontcysyllte aquaduct

250

5

Llandudno

228

5

Llangollen Town

252

6

Bodnant Gardens

232

6

Castell Dinas Bran

256

7

Around Llantysilio

258

8

Pistyll Rhaeadr

262

More North Wales locations at www.fotovue.com/viewpoints

THE LOCATIONS

27

1

Llyn Padarn

Located by Llanberis, Llyn Padarn is one of the largest natural lakes in Wales. Carved out by glaciers pouring down the valley from the high peaks of the Glyderau and Snowdon mountain ranges, at its western end is one of the best sunrise locations in Snowdonia.

In the 13th Century Llywelyn the Great built Dolbadarn Castle on a small hilltop with views north west over Llyn Padarn towards the coast and south east into the high mountains.

What To Shoot and Viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – Brynrefail

A winters day at Dolbadarn castle Konica Minolta A200 at 28mm eq., 1/200 sec @ F5.6, ISO 50

Great views can be had from the bridge itself using the reeds below for foreground. Still conditions turn the lake into a mirror with the mountains and sky perfectly reflected. With a longer lens you can get closer to the mountains, the hills and trees on either side creating a natural frame.

At the water’s edge use the reed bed as foreground, try to avoid damaging the reeds by trampling. From here you are looking down the entire 2 mile length of Llyn Padarn with the Glyderau on the left and Snowdon to the right, your eye drawn into the frame by the notch of the Llanberis Pass.

Continue across the bridge turning right and following the wall to a small gap where you can access the lake shore below the bridge.

Look behind you at the arched bridge, the reeds and bridge catch the morning sun, there are often swans swimming about too.

How To Get Here

Accessibility

Brynrefail is 3 miles west of Llanberis. From Llanberis go north west for 2.5 miles towards Caernarfon on the A4086 to reach the right turn to the A4244 (signposted Bangor A5/A55). Continue for 180 metres then turn right. Continue for 120m until the road turns sharply left. There is limited roadside parking before the bridge.

Viewpoint 1: Brynrefail is roadside shooting from the bridge.

Access to the lakeshore involves uneven ground which is often very wet, wellington boots recommended.

Viewpoint 2: South Lakeshore is very close to the parking area and is accessible for those with limited mobility along the full Parking Lat/Long: 53.138340, -4.155171 length, wheelchair users will only find access suitable at the eastern Parking Postcode: LL55 4EE most point behind the “Village Car Park”.

OS map co-ordinate: SH 559 623 Dolbadarn Castle requires a short walk of 5-10 minutes along Map: OS Explorer Map OL17 (1:25 000) Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa a good but uneven and occasionally rocky footpath. There is no Viewpoint 2: From the Electric Mountain Visitors Centre in Llanberis, wheelchair access to the castle. follow the A4086 heading west for 0.25 miles to the town’s lakeshore parking or 0.5 miles to a right turning (unsigned) on Best Time of Year/Day to Ystad Ddiwydiannol Y Glyn. Continue for 250 metres to reach the Padarn Country Park parking area on the right.

All viewpoints are east facing views so sunrise is a good time to be here. Calm mornings give the best chance of capturing good Parking Lat/Long: 53.118731, -4.121397 reflections in Llyn Padarn. Visit between October and February for Parking Postcode: LL55 4UR shots capturing the sun rising behind the Snowdonia Mountains/ OS map co-ordinate: SH 581 600 Llanberis Pass. Dolbadarn Castle lights up in the evening sun Dolbadarn Castle is just 400 metres from the main Snowdon with the mountains behind.

Mountain Railway station in Llanberis. From in front of the railway station go 60m back towards the town on the A4086, turn right signposted Padarn Country Park/First Hydro Power Station.

Continue 250 metres to the large car park on the left.

OS map co-ordinate: SH 586 597 Right: November sun rising from behind the Llanberis Pass Nikon D800, 24-120 at 32mm, 0.8 sec @ f/16, ISO 100, tripod

32

SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

Viewpoint 2 – South lakeshore The outlook from the Llanberis lakeshore town parking and the car park at Padarn Country Park give similar views but from a different perspective.

The town parking is closer to the hills and typically has the pleasure boat ‘Snowdon Star’ moored in front.

This is a great place for a panorama, especially on a still day with great reflections. Dolbadarn Castle sits nicely in the middle distance with the mountains behind.

At the Padarn Country Park lakeshore there is more foreground potential with trees and rocks. Look out for the very distinctive lone tree near the parking area.

Viewpoint 3 – Dolbadarn Castle Directly opposite the entrance to the car park is a way marked path, crossing the river by a narrow footbridge, the castle is just 150 metres beyond.

The 13th century castle is perfectly positioned for shots towards the LLanberis Pass and surrounding mountains.

From within the grounds you will need a wide angle lens to capture the castle and some foreground. The north west corner gives most scope for this. The forest tracks to the right of the approach path give different angle views with the quarries of Dinorwic behind.

Right: Lone tree at Viewpoint 2 on Llyn Padarn at sunrise.

Nikon D800, 16-35 at 24mm, 15sec @ f/4, ISO 100, tripod, Big Stopper

3

Vivian Trail and Dinorwic Quarry

The quarrymen toiled away for nearly 200 years on the lower slopes of Elidir Fawr leaving a vast scar that dominates the lower Llanberis Pass.

The slate extracted from here now covers the rooftops of many houses around the UK. Below we describe some viewpoints from afar as well as two photo trails around the quarries.

Vivian Quarry is situated next to the National Slate Museum and whilst smaller than Dinorwic, it’s convenient for a short visit and impressive to witness. The Quarryman’s Path is a more energetic walk which takes you into the heart of the main quarry levels visiting disused buildings and rusting machinery with some fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

What To Shoot and Viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – From the Llanberis Pass This viewpoint reveals the vastness of the quarry on the lower slopes of Elidir Fawr with the power station at its base. Dinorwic Quarry faces southwest, so when the sun is high in the summer the levels of the quarry get sun for most of the day. Try the warm glow of evening light in the summer, or mid-afternoon in autumn and late winter/early spring. Consider a night shot as the power station is lit at night.

There are several viewpoints but the easiest to get to is on the A4086, the Llanberis Pass road. Drive out of Llanberis passing the Victoria Hotel toward the Pass and the village of Nant Peris where the road follows Llyn Peris (a reservoir). Park in a lay-by or in a small car park at the end of Llyn Peris well before Nant Peris. There are many places to photograph on the pavement by the wall looking over the reservoir.

Viewpoint 2: Vivian Quarry Vivian Quarry is located at the base of the hill by the car park at the National Slate Museum. Walk out of the car park and over the railway line through the arch cut into the stone wall. You are there. The walls of the quarry stretch above you and a dark blue lagoon sits at their base – now used by a diving school. The base of the quarry is filled with moss-covered slate blocks and birch trees. Subjects here include the aerial wire and suspended slate wagon. There are many abstracts, reflections and detail shots. Autumn is perhaps the best time here. The quarry faces southwest and gets full sun later in the day.

The austere nature of the quarry translates well to black and white images; the shapes and textures of the stone buildings, walls, the levels, cliff faces and inclines surrounded by cleaved slate provide many potential compositions even in dull light. Slate here is a range of colours: purple, green, grey and black and is often daubed with colourful mosses, lichens and ferns.

Viewpoint 3 – Dinorwic Quarrymans’ Trail You can access the Quarryman’s Trail from below near the National Slate Museum, an uphill walk, or by driving to the village of Dinorwig (accessed from the A4244 Bangor road) and parking just beyond at a car park, this is more of a stroll depending how far you venture.

Described here is the trail from below starting near the National Slate Museum.

If you have parked at the NSM car park walk out the way you drove in but turn left and follow the road to the power station. On your left – after 10m – is an interpretive sign and map marking the start of the Quarryman’s Trail.

Big Views Follow the steep path to where the views open up to give opportunities for panoramic photography encompassing the valley, lakes and mountains.

The Drum and Brake House Further up the path, shortly after passing over a small iron footbridge, you reach the remains of the drum and brake house, together with a rather odd section of stone wall with large flat pieces of slate seemingly forming a roof at some time.

Anglesey Barracks The slate quarry at Dinorwic drew a labour force from the nearby Isle of Anglesey, the Anglesey Barracks provided them with accommodation during the working week. The buildings themselves are in ruins and from the far end they create a fine avenue leading your eye into the mountains.

38

SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

Left: Looking across Llyn Peris to the Snowdon Range.

Nikon D800, 16-35 at 16mm, 1/400 sec @ f/5, ISO 250

Above: The Glyderau over the rooftops of Anglesey Barracks.

Nikon D800, 70-300VR at 300mm, 1/1000 sec @ f/6.3. ISO 400

Below: Summer evening light falling on Anglesey Barracks.

Nikon D800, 16-35 at 16mm, 1/30 sec @ f/16, ISO 400, tripod

SOUTH EAST: BRANT FELL

39

5

Snowdon Miners Track/Llyn Llydaw How To Get Here Llyn Llydaw is located on the Miners Track, a short walk from the car park at Pen Y Pass on the A4086. Follow the A4086 west for 5.3 miles from Capel Curig or A4086 east for 5.6 miles from Llanberis.

Pen Y Pass car park: Parking Lat/Long: 53.080466, -4.020567 Parking Postcode: LL55 4NU OS map Grid Ref: SH 647 556 Llyn Llydaw Grif Ref: SH 634 545 Map: OS Explorer Map OL17 (1:25 000) Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

Accessibility Parking at Pen Y Pass is often busy and it is expensive at £5 for 4 hours and £10 for the whole day in 2015. There is parking in Llanberis and Nant Peris, both served by bus to Pen Y Pass.

It’s a relatively easy 2km walk to the lake from Pen Y Pass car park the path is mostly flat with only gentle inclines. The surface is un-metalled but relativey good so should be accessible by wheelchair. Away from the track the ground is open rocky hillside so good walking boots are recommended. Beyond Llyn Llydaw both the Miners Track and path up towards Y Lliwedd become steeper and rougher as they climb higher. Good walking boots are essential as well as a waterproof jacket and trousers, extra warm clothes and food and drink.

IMPORTANT: This is serious mountain terrain and you should be prepared for the worst possible conditions.

If you decide to continue on the paths above the lake, perhaps to the summits of Y Lliwedd or Snowdon, assume you will be out for the day and prepare accordingly with a map and compass.

Know your route, leave a note of where you are going and expected time back. Take a head torch and fully charged mobile phone for emergencies.

Best Time of Year/Day In the winter months the sun rises in the perfect position to light up Snowdon and the surrounding ridges. Crib Goch translated means ‘Red Comb’ and in the morning light this seems perfectly appropriate.

Calm days give amazing reflections and stormy days dramatic conditions on the lakes and in the hills around. Be opportunistic and keep your eyes open for fleeting moments as the light changes during the day. You never know what may happen

Top: Llyn Llydaw in the warm winter sun of a February sunrise.

Pentax K5, DA12-24 at 12mm, 1/8 sec @ f/16, ISO 80, tripod Middle: Old mine buildings on a wild winter day.

Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300 at 146mm, 1/250sec at f/11, ISO 100, © fotoVUE Bottom: Winter sunrise lighting up Crib Goch Pentax K5, DA12-24 at 12mm, 0.3 sec @ f/16, ISO 80, tripod

48

SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

With such dramatic suroundings this place is good at any time.

The most dramatic photos will undoubtedly come with dramatic weather and light however, meaning the ends of the day or in changeable weather conditions.

Right: Lyn Llydaw close to sunset in early February, from near the causeway looking across to Y Lliwedd. © fotoVUE Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40mm at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/60sec at f/11

8

Cwm Idwal

Morning light on the peaks of Y Garn and Foel Goch.

Nikon D800, 16-35 at 16mm. 1/15 sec @ f/16, ISO100, tripod

Right: Cwm Idwal and Pen yr Ole Wen from Devil’s Kitchen .

Samsung Gx10, Sigma 17-70 at 26mm, 1/125 sec @ f/13, ISO 250

How To Get Here

Best Time of Year/Day

Cwm Idwall sits south of the Ogwen Valley, the neigbouring valley to the Llanberis pass, 7 miles from the A55. The car park and visitors centre at Ogwen cottage is located 4.5 miles south and up the hill from Bethesda. Bethesda is 3 miles from junction 11 (Bangor/ Llanberis turn off) on the the A55. Leave Bethesda heading south in the direction of Betws-y-Coed and continue for 4.5 miles to Ogwen Cottage by the side of Llyn Ogwen. Turn right into the pay and display car park located opposite the visitors centre. Access to all three viewpoints is by taking the wide, stoned pathway at the left of the visitors centre, heading up hill and south.

The impressive scenery of Cwm Idwal makes it a special place to photograph even when light conditions are considered poor.

Heavy cloud, rain squalls and sprees of light can produce dramatic and moody images. The dark and brooding slopes can appear very dramatic in mixed weather with shafts of sunlight and crepuscular rays dancing around.

Parking at Ogwen Cottage

In summer the place is green but there is still lots of contrast with the grey rocks and beach. Autumn sees the grass turn golden and the first snows dusting the summits. Winter can be spectacular when the mountains lie under a blanket of snow and the lake is wholly or partially frozen.

Parking Lat/Long: 53.123354, -4.019923 The rising sun hits the cwm only between April and September, Parking Postcode: LL57 3LZ in the winter months the sun rises behind the mountains.

OS map grid ref: SH 649 603 Reflections work any time, early morning is best for this when the Llyn Idwal OS map grid ref: SH 646 598 wind is likley to be calmest. Look into the Cwm across the lake for Devil’s Kitchen OS map grid ref: SH 639 588 reflections of the headwall or move into the cwm for views looking Map: OS Explorer Map OL17 (1:25 000) Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa north and across the valley to the slopes of Pen yr Ole Wen.

Accessibility The footpaths here are uneven and rocky. The higher up the cwm you go the rougher and steeper the path becomes, especially above Llyn Idwal. Good walking boots, full waterproof cover, gloves and a hot drink are recommended. This is not a place to get caught out by bad weather especially hypothermia-inducing cold winds – especially dangerous when standing stationary photographing.

62

SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

13

Craflwyn

Owned by the National Trust this 200 acre estate has some of the finest natural woodland you’ll find in the whole of North Wales. Steeped in myth and legend it’s a place where wizards and dragons once lived and fought.

Recently the National Trust fought its own battle with the rapidly spreading impenetrable jungle of rhododendron that covered a third of the estate. Whilst a beautiful plant it is inedible to most animals, toxic to livestock and chokes out most other vegetation.

What to shoot and viewpoints Craflwyn is a place for exploration, there are surprises around every corner. The National Trust have created some excellent waymarked trails to help you make the most from your visit. Pick up a map from the NT office and go and explore.

Welsh Black Cattle relaxing in the bracken Hand carved dragon bench on the green woodland trail

Yellow Trail The Llywelyn Parry Path (yellow trail) is a short loop concentrating on the main woodland area behind Craflwyn Hall and has widely varied photo opportunities amongst the ancient woodland. Subjects include macro forest vegetation with abundant ferns, mosses and funghi, Welsh Black Cattle and mountain goats are commonly seen. Goats can be shy and aloof, it’s best to approach very slowly allowing them to get used to you.

Look out for squirrels as well as woodpecker, cuckoo and pied flycatcher. In summer there are numerous flowering plants including orchids.

Green Trail Allow 1 to 2 hours to walk this trail.

The path climbs quite steeply through beautiful oak and birch forest. This trail is rocky, wet and slippery in places so good walking boots are recommended.

Above the tree line there are expansive views to the south and east. The lone pines on ridges and hilltops make good subjects, move around to frame them against the sky. The patches af oak forest are internationally important and form part of the woodland that stretches from the coast to the flanks of Snowdon. The oak forest itself offers mossy trunks set amongst boulders with Moel Hebog and Cnicht for a mountain backdrop.

There are numerous high viewpoints offering views down to the Llyn Dinas Valley and towards Beddgelert.

As the path starts to descend look out for the Giant’s Chair with great views over Dinas Emrys.

Back in the forest, you pass by the exquisitely carved dragon bench. Go quietly so as not to wake him.

80

SNOWDONIA CENTRAL

How To Get Here Craflwyn is located 0.8 miles east of Beddgelert. Leave Beddgelert on the A498 heading east, in the direction of Capel Curig and after just 0.8 miles trun left at the Craflwyn signpost entering through the stone gateway to turn immediately left into the large car park.

Parking Lat/Long: 53.019559, -4.089210 Parking Postcode: LL55 4NE OS map grid ref: SH 600 490 Map: OS Explorer Map OL17 (1:25 000) Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

Accessibility The woodland paths are often uneven so not ideal for those with limited mobility and wheelchair users.

Best Time of Year/Day Autumn is probably the best time to visit Craflwyn, the natural woodland looks at its most colourful and the likehood is that the many small streams and waterfalls are flowing nicely. Macro shots are a better possibility too with moss, ferns and funghi and fallen autumn leaves. In the woodland bright but overcast days are best to avoid contrast.

Below: Wild goats, waterfalls and plantlife, along the green trail

Above: The Giant’s Chair makes a great foreground with views all around. Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40mm at 37mm, 1/80 sec at f/14, ISO 100, Š fotoVUE

5

Fairy Glen – Betws-y-Coed

A wonderfully serene, often magical, secluded gorge through which the River Conwy flows on its way to the village of Betws-y-Coed.

This is one of my own favourite locations in North Wales and a perfect location for long exposure photography.

good effect. Foam floating downstream creates blurred lines. The stream flow itself creates strong lines with a shutter speed of a few seconds.

Getting low to the water allows you to look up the course of the river creating a great lead in through the gorge.

Foreground rocks and pools can provide immediate foreground subjects.

What To Shoot and Viewpoints Shortly after passing through the gate by the honesty box the path splits, it is suggested to take the right fork to follow the river up to the gorge and return through the fields arriving back at the left fork.

The riverside walk reveals large water-worn rocks, potholes, dark pools, reflections, foam streaks, trees, moss, ferns and all manner of macro subjects in the lush woodland. Grey squirrels are common here.

The riverside path climbs a little above the river then at Fairy Glen drops down steep steps to the river side. There are huge boulders down here to scramble amongst whilst exploring the photographic potential. The River Conwy squeezes through the narrow gorge of Fairy Glen, the sides of the gorge are green with moss and vegetation.

Long exposure images work well and, as it’s naturally fairly dark here in the shadowy gorge, even without ND filters you can achieve shutter speeds long enough for

A burst of sun breaks into the narrow gorge.

Pentax K5, DA17-70 at 43mm, 0.5 sec @ f/16, ISO 100, tripod

How To Get Here

Accessibility

Fairy Glen is located 1.2 miles south of Betws-y-Coed. Take the A5 south from Betws-y-Coed passing over Thomas Telford’s Waterloo Bridge. Just after the bridge the road veers to the right and the A470 joins from the left. Continue on the A5 for 150m then turn right onto the A470 signposted for Dolgellau. After 0.6 miles turn left up a track on the left just after the Fairy Glen Hotel and just before crossing the bridge over the River Conwy.

Fairy Glen is located on private property and a small charge is requested via an honesty box to help maintain the riverside paths.

If parking at the designated area a small fee is also requested.

No disabled access is possible as Fairy Glen is reached via a narrow and uneven riverside path, very steep, uneven steps and the gorge floor is rocky.

Park in the car park on the left 50m up this track. Note there is a £1 fee for using this private car park plus 50p per person to visit the glen, leave money in an honesty box on the approach to the river.

After rain both the access steps and gorge floor can be particularly wet and slippery underfoot, care needs to be taken and good footwear is essential.

Best Time of Year/Day Parking Lat/Long: 53.075983, -3.794218 Parking Postcode: LL24 0SL This is a location that looks different through the seasons so it’s OS Map grid ref: SH 799 547 worthwhile visiting at any time of year. Autumn is perhaps the most Map: OS Explorer Map OL17 (1:25 000) Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa spectacular. The time of day is important as sunlight entering the gorge is limited by the steep gorge sides. In winter late morning sun and mist can produce sun rays and some magical effects.

Often the middle of the day produces the right direction of light for spectacular shots. Rainfall has a strong influence here filling the gorge rapidly and transforming the normally serene waters into a powerful torrent, the evidence of which is to be seen in the curves and contours of the impressive gorge walls.

Right: A long exposure adds a mystical quality to an autumnal Fairy Glen. Pentax K5, DA17-70 at 43mm, 137 sec @ f/11, ISO 80, Big Stopper, tripod 108

SNOWDONIA EAST SCAR SOUTH EAST: SCOUT

2

Cwmystradllyn

In the middle of the 19th century Cwmystradllyn was anything but the quiet and remote location it is today. Gorseddau Quarry was a hive of industry on the hillside above. Extracted slate was taken by horse drawn railway to Ponty-Pandy Slate Mill where the relatively poor quality slate was worked into flooring, window sills and gravestones. In its eight years of operation it never returned a profit.

For photographers the mill and nearby lake offer lots of scope for interesting composition in most conditions, times of day and seasons.

What To Shoot and Viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – Ynys y Pandy Slate Mill The remains of the Ynys y Pandy Slate Mill dominate the skyline on the approach lane; in appearance more like the ruins of an abbey than an industrial slate mill. Built close to the nearby stream to make use of the water to power the 8m high water wheel, sadly long since gone.

As industrial ruins of North Wales go it’s arguably the most photogenic you’ll come across.

Viewpoint 2 – Cwmystradllyn Llyn Cwmystradllyn sits hidden away in the valley between the rugged mountains of Moel Hebog and Moel-ddu. Once a natural lake, it is now damned on one side to provide drinking water to the towns and villages of the Llŷn Peninsula.

As pleasant as the location is it needs good light to do it justice as the surrounding landscape lacks the drama of the higher mountain locations in Snowdonia.

Calm conditions and broken cloud are ideal, reflections are a real bonus. Foreground interest varies mainly based on water levels, there are interesting rocks scattered in the water’s edge of the lake closest to the parking area but the higher the water the less visible they are.

The small rowing boats used by the local fishermen make a good foreground.

Some of the most interesting views of the lake are shot from the lakeside close to the parking area, facing north east, although it is worth a wander around the lake too.

Footpaths are vague in places and, after rain, extremely wet underfoot, especially on the eastern edges. On the western lake side, following the track from the still lived in house, some remnants of the old quarry village of Treforus remain.

The mill’s stature and position make for powerful wide angle shots. There is plenty of foreground to pick from including the tumbling stream on its north side; the outflow from Llyn Cwmystradllyn, the scattered slate on the inclines to the west or the old tramway approaching from the east. Night shots work well from both inside and out including star trails and light painting techniques.

The view from the approach lane is good too, the west facade of the mill and the peak of Moel Hebog looming large in the frame.

Slate spoil below the imposing Ynys Y Pandy mill.

Nikon D800, 16-35 at 16mm, 1/6sec @ f/22, ISO 100, tripod

How To Get Here

Accessibility

From Porthmadog head north on the A4791 to reach the roundabout junction with the A487 in half a mile. Turn left onto the A487 heading north towards Caernarfon. After 2.2 miles take the small lane to the right, signposted Golan/Cwmystradllyn.

Continue ahead for 0.8 miles to reach a right hand turn, singposted Cwmystradllyn, next to a small cluster of houses. Follow the lane for a further 1.5 miles to reach Ynys Y Pandy Slate Mill.

Approaches are short but steep and on rough ground. Paths are not suitable for wheelchair users but there are good views from the road.

Continue a further 0.8 miles to reach a house directly ahead, where the lane takes a sharp right turn and then continues just 0.2 miles to reach a parking area in front of the main dam wall at Cwmystradllyn

Best Time of Year/Day The main views at Llyn Cwmystradllyn look to the north east so late light is perfect for adding soft tones to the surrounding mountains and water. In autumn the bracken and heather change coour to give something other than a ubiquitous green. Winter snows transform the mountains and the lake is often iced.

The slate mill looks out to the west but as you can get to most sides Parking Lat/Long: 52.967116, -4.162619 the time of day is not so important. Images taken during the golden Parking Postcode: LL51 9AZ hours work best and sunsets can be particularly effective from OS Map grid ref: SH 550 433 within looking out of the numerous windows and open roof.

Map: OS Explorer OL18 Harlech, Porthmadog & Bala/Y Bala

118

SNOWDONIA SOUTH

2

Menai Suspension Bridge

Built by Thomas Telford in 1826 this imposing bridge is 417m long, 12m wide and 30m high.

Historically cattle rearing was the main source of income on Anglesey. To get animals to market before the bridge was built they would be driven into the water and swum across the Strait which often lead to the loss of valuable animals.

From close up and from both sides of the Menai Strait the bridge is impressive. Described are some of the best photographic viewpoints.

What To Shoot and Viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – Across the Menai Strait; A5 lay-by Park in one of two lay-bys on the A5 between Menai Suspension Bridge and Britannia Bridge on the Anglesey side of the strait. You have two viewpoints in one here, just a few metres apart but each with a subtly different angle; the smaller lay-by, further north east and closer to Menai Bridge is my choice. There are plenty of framing options to consider; a wide angle captures the fields just beyond the viewpoint together with the fast flowing waters of the Menai Strait whilst a telephoto flattens perspective placing the emphasis on the bridge and the distant mountains.

It is possible to access the side of the Menai Strait by making your way to the westerly end of the largest lay-by and passing through the metal gate. Follow the distinct path down to the bank of the Menai Strait. The views from here are excellent although the lower perspective means the impressive Snowdonia backdrop loses some of its impact.

Viewpoint 2 – Ynys Tysilio (Church Island) and Under the Menai Bridge Ynys Tysilio From the Coed Cyrnol car park follow the tarmac footpath away from the road and through the woodland of oak, birch and Scot’s pine, looking out for red squirrels.

You will arrive at the curving Belgian promenade and in front of you is a narrow walkway to Ynys Tysilio (Church Island). The church is named after Saint Tysilio who spent seven years on this small island as a hermit monk in the sixth century. Photographically as well as the church and its graveyard look out for daffodils in the spring and detail shots especially the old oak door.

This is also a good vantage point to photograph both bridges and bird life in the Swellies (the stretch of water between the bridges), the rock pools and sand flats looking toward Britannia Bridge.

From the A5 lay-by, snow-capped Snowdonia as a perfect backdrop.

Pentax K20D, DA17-70 at 28mm, 1/60 sec @ f/11, ISO 320

Twilight is a good time to be at viewpoint 3, Nikon D800, 24-120 at 66mm, 3 sec @ f/11, ISO 100, tripod

On lookout at South Stack.

Nikon D800, 16-35 at 16mm, 1/1000 sec @ f/7.1, ISO 200

Anglesey’s iconic view – February sunset at Tyr Mawr lighthouse.

Samsung GX10, Sigma 17-70 at 19mm, 1/6 sec @ f/16, ISO 200, tripod

North Coast – Introduction The A55 North Wales Expressway, reminiscent of an Italian coastal road in places, follows the narrow gap between mountains and coastline on its journey towards the resort of Llandudno and the historic town of Conwy. Roads lead off south into Snowdonia.

NORTH COAST

North Wales’ northern coastline faces north west and is perfect for summer sunset photography over its sandy beaches or from hilly vantage points above the A55.

The town of Llandudno is a well preserved Victorian seaside resort with an arc of grand hotels on its seafront esplanade and is home to one of the finest piers in Britain. The town is towered over by the limestone headland of the Great Orme with views over Conwy Bay to Anglesey.

Conwy is one of the best examples of a medieval town in the UK and is a UNESCO World heritage site. Photographing its 13th century castle over Conwy estuary and its moored boats is a much sought after classic.

The mountains are never far away, the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdonia ranges provide a beautiful backdrop to the coast, changing colour as the seasons progress and also catching weather which often leads to some spectacular light.

216

NORTH COAST

1

Rhaeadr Fawr/ Aber Falls

216

2

Jubillee Path, Penmaenmawr

218

3

Conwy Mountain – Mynydd Dref

220

4

Conwy

224

5

Llandudno

228

6

Bodnant Gardens

232

General map: OS Landranger: 115 Snowdon OS Landranger: 116 Denbigh and Colwyn Bay For finer navigation: OS Explorer Map OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

N Great Orme’s Head/ Pen-y-Gogarth Puffin Island

Conwy Bay/ Bae Conwy

Anglesey/ Ynys Mon

3

Penmaenmawr Penmaen Mawr

2

A55

A546

Conwy

4

A548 Moelfre Uchaf 396m

6

y

Graig

Afon C onw

Mwdwl Eithin 389m

A548

Llanfair Talhaiarn A544

Rhos-y-Mawn

A470

Dolgarrog

A5

Dolwen

Bodnant Gardens

Drum 770m

Abergele A55

A547

Llansantffraid Glan Conwy

1

Bethesda

Junction 23

Llandulas

Tal y Fan 610m

Moel Wnion 580m

A55

5

Sunset location

Colwyn Bay

Llandudno Junction

Foel Lus 362m

Aber Falls

To Bangor & Caernarfon

miles

0 Penrhyn Bay Rhôs-on-Sea

Penmaen-bach Point

Llanfairfechan

Aber

Llandudno 5 Little Orme’s Head

207m

To Llanrwst & Betws-y-Coed

Great Orme’s Head/ Pen-y-Gogarth

The Marine Drive (toll road)

Great Orme

N

207m

St. Tudno’s

Happy Pen y Dinas Valley

Pier Grand Hotel

Tramway mile

0

Ormes Bay or Llandudno Bay North Shore Promenade

1

Little Orme’s Head Penrhyn Bay

5 Conwy Bay/ Bae Conwy

Llandudno Rhos Point A546

Rhôs-onSea Deganwy

Penmaen-bach Point

Llandudno Junction

A55

A547

Quay

Dolwyd

Af

Co

Conway Castle

on

Conwy Mntn Penmaen-bach 244m Conwy A547 245m Alltwen 3 245m Sychnant Pass

Dwygyfylchi

Mochdre

Marina

4

A55

Colwyn Bay

A470

Station

nwy

A470

Map: Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown Copyright and database right (2015)

NORTH COAST

217

A winter sunset; Conwy Castle reflected in the partially frozen estuary Pentax K20D, DA17-70 at 55mm, 1 sec @ f/13, ISO 100, tripod

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