WASTE POLLUTION GREENWASH CONSUMPTION
CHEMICALS NUDIE JEANS 1
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01 INTRODUCTION 06 THEORITICAL FRAMEWORK
CWK 1 Branding Research Group: Gonzalo Edo, Hildur Ragnarsdรณttir, Xavier Salvat, Michelle Selch Laursen Course: BA Fashion marketing & communication, Level 6, 20182019. Module title: 6FAMK002C International Branding and Sustainability Teachers: Alejandro Gonzรกlez, Clara Mallart Date: November 6th, 2018 2 Words: 2350 excluding tables, charts and in text referencing
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h t u r t d e k The na m i n e d t u o b a
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PART I: Business model
POS 52
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Target 14
AIDAR Model 54
Competitors 16
IN MEDIA 56
Positioning 18 Key Numbers 22
Conclusion 64
SWOT 24 Bibliography 68
GLobal markets 26 PESTEL 29
annex 74
PART I:I
Core values and brand heritage 32 Brand Wheel
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Storytelling 36 Emotional connection
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5 Figure 1: Text Nudie, Jeans, 2017
Introduction In today’s competitive landscape Marketing 1.0 is history and today it is not enough for brands to promote products. 1 A new era has begun as the change in consumers behaviour from needs to desire which is why marketers today humanizes brands through the art of branding.
environmental and social responsibility, which the company has summarized with three words: reuse, recycle and repair. The denim collection is created from 100% organic cotton and is 100% vegan. A unique attribute to Nudie Jeans is that the brand offers free repairs of the denim jeans and the possibility of buying second hand In this paper an in depth analysis of jeans in order to extend the life cycle the denim brand Nudie Jeans was of a pair of denim jeans. (Nudie, 2018) created in order to analyse and identify the current branding strategy Nudie was launched in a relatively red for the brand alongside with a bri- ocean market as the main product ef development of a list of sugges- category is denim jeans, a widely ditions for future communications to stributed product. However, Nudie develop an expansion plan in CWK2. understood to enter a blue market when the main focus of sustainabiNudie was founded in 2001 and is a lity and focusing on social responsiswedish denim brand that is sold in bility was applied as the core of the over 20 countries with a revenue of 50 business at a time where these vamio â‚Ź. (Kuhl, 2018) The essence of the lues was not considered by any curbrand is sustainability, transparency, rent brands offering denim jeans. 1 Definition of Marketing 1.0 and the various eras can be found in annex p.79 6
Figure 2: Jeans on racks, Nudie, Jeans, 2017
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1.1 Framework This research is based on strategies, models and theories widely recognised in the marketing field. CWK1 coursework is divided in three parts; a deep research about the brand, an analysis of the market and an analysis of the current strategy followed by the brand. First of all, in order to identify the internal strengths and weaknesses and external opportunities and threats a SWOT analysis is conducted. Additionally, a competitors analysis is created alongside with a positioning map to identify the operators in the market. In order to understand the market a PESTEL is applied to Sweden, the origin country of Nudie alongside with a short analysis of the different markets the brand operates in. Furthermore, an analysis of relevant trends in the market is described to understand the success of Nudie Jeans. Furthermore, the 4P´s model was applied to Nudie and attached in the annex. In order to analyse Nudie’s current strategy in depth different models and theories such as the 22 immutable laws of Marketing, Levitt theory Marketing Myopia and the AIDAR model were applied and taken into consideration alongside with an in shop interview and observation Moreover, an ethical brand wheel is created that explains the connection of ethics and social responsibility in the brand as these are core values of the brand.
a h t i w s t r ”It all sta e i d u N ” s y r d f o r i a p 8
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Figure 3,4,5: Nudie Jeans store, Carrer de Ramรณn y Cajal, Grรกcia. Gonzalo Edo, 2018
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n o r i v n e �The most y l d n e i r f y mentall l l a e w f i would be i t l u c , d e k went na , d o o f n w o r vated ou t u g r u o d e and ask d a e t s n i e c for advi y e l l a V n o of a Silic � . e l c a r o based e i d u N
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2.1 Business model Nudie Jeans Business model operates as a click-and-mortar business, by having an online and offline sales presence. Palle Stenberg, CEO at Nudie Jeans claims that the com-
tainable jeans that can be repaired and reused due to the free jeans repair service located at the physical shops. Stenberg stresses that “it isn’t about the cost of one pair of
pany’s value proposition, from the beginning was about social responsibility and to preserve nature while making long-lasting jeans. (Borromeo 2014) Nudie’s business model is based on the production of sus-
jeans, it is about how long the pair can last.”(Borromeo 2014) Sustainability is crucial and all cotton is certified organic by GOTS, Eco-cert, OCS and EU Organic standards (Nudie, 2018)
” e l c y c e r , r i a p e r , e s ”Reu e i d u N 12
Figure 6: Jeans hanging. Nudie Jeans 2018
Figure 7: Nudie store in Shoreditch. Nudie Jeans, 2015
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2.2 target Initially, Nudie Jeans offered unisex jeans, but has recently introduced womenswear. (Sanchez, 2018) Nudie Jeans target audience ranges from 25 to 55 years old with medium-high incomes and a metropolitan lifestyle. The target is curious and interested in sustainability and the planets wellbeing. Furthermore, the target values longevity of the product,
prioritize quali-
ty, traceability over quantity and price. Sandhya Lang, CSR manager for Nudie Jeans states following: “Men don’t care for trends or seasons and we don’t want to make products that go out of style in three months.” (Nudie, 2014.)
a s e v r e s e d m i n e d r u o ”Y e i d u N ” e c n a h c d n o sec 14
35 years old Interior Designer and Decorator Lives in Barcelona He is interested in sustainability and the planet wellbeing. He values longevity of his jeans and prioritize quality and traceability over quantity, trends and price. Would spend a long time at the store finding the right pair of jeans. Therefore, enjos being attended and informed.
27 years old Architect Lives in Denmark Cares about products that does go out of style in three months. (Fads) She likes exploring new sustainable models and stands for slow jeans life and having just the right amount of products she needs, not more.
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Cheap Monday
Levi’s
• Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) is focused on denim jeans and the essence of the brand is to create long-lasting and quality jeans. • Cares for sustainability, 90% of the material used is sustainable. (Kings of indigo, 2018) • Direct competitor to Nudie considering price and KOI promotes same concepts: reusing, sustainable and innovative materials.
North America
MUD Jeans
Kings of Indigo
2.3 Competitors
• Mud jeans was founded as a reaction to the fast fashion industry with the core values of lowering the impact fashion has on the environment. • Main concept is: Circular design, a closed loop where jeans are designed to be reused. • Direct competitor as it is ranked a sustainable brand alongside with Nudie. (Mud Jeans, 2018.) • Levis is a leader in the denim world creating the first jeans in 1873. • Considered a mainstream and massmarket product reaching wide between generations. (Levi Strauss, 2018) • Levis is at the moment not a direct competitor to Nudie, as the brand does not offer sustainable options, however it is stated that Levis aims to produce jeans made by 100% organic cotton by 2020, which would make them a significant competitor. (Berker, 2018)
• Cheap monday is a mass market brand. • Is responding to the change and the demand in the market and from the FW18 collection it is stated that 50% of the used material will be sustainable. (Cheap Monday, 2018)
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G-Star H&M Conscious RAw Denim
Diesel
Replay
t s o m e h t e r a s n a e j e u l B ” e h t e c n i s s ng i h t l u f i t u bea d n a l e e r V na a i D ” a l o d gon
• Replay is known for the large range of different denim and jeans. • Mostly considered a competitors in terms of target audience. (Replay, 2018.)
• Diesel was founded in 1978 and is known for the concept of ”Diesel Lifestyle” (Diesel, 2018) • is a competitor to in terms of lifestyle and quality, as the brand is focused on the high-end to luxury market with their trendy denim. (Diesel, 2018.) • H&M is known as one of the largest massmarket and fast fashion brands. • Can be considered a competitor in terms of materials used in the production of the collection, as the brand states to use leftover materials, less water, less energy and fewer chemicals. (H&M, 2018.)
• G-star raw is known for traditionally specialising in raw denim. • is considered a competitor in terms of price and the brand range of dry and raw denim product. Furthermore G-Star is focused on innovation in the denim production cycle and social responsibility as a denim brand. (G-Star, 2018.)
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2.4 POSITIONING The ranking below is based on reviews from the webpage www.rankabrand.com that ranks brands from A-E according to how sustainable the brand is based on transparency, social responsibility and materials used in products. Below the main competitors are listed, which is the main source used for the positioning. (Rank A brand, 2018) On the following page the average price has been calculated for each brand (based on the average of 7 jeans)
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e u l b y m h t i w e i d o t t n a ”I w l o h r a W y d n A ” n o s n a e j
Figure 8: New vs. Old Nudie Jeans. Hardpressed, 2018
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2.4 POSITIONING Luxury market (High price)
Non sustainable brands
Sustainable brands
Mass market (Low price) Sources: Levis, u.d., Replay u.d, Diesel, u.d. G-star, 2017. Cheap Monday, 2018. H&M Conscious, ud. Mud Jeans, 2018. , Kings of Indigo, 2016, Nudie Jeans, 2018
Average price calculated for each brand (based on denim jeans - average of 7 jeans): Nudie Jeans: 137 € Mud Jeans: 119€ Kings of indigo: 126 € Cheap monday: 60 € G-Star: 137 € 20
i r a l u c r i c e r o ”Long bef e w d r o w z z u b a ty became d n a y t i v e g n o l n focused o u o y s t n e m r a g knew that the a s i m i n e D . p e e k love – you e r o m s w o r g t a h t material e.” m i t h t i w l u f i t beau - Nudie
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2.5 Key numbers Below is the key players in the denim market displayed. However, it should be considered that the following data is limited to the sources available online. Therefore, Nudie Jeans is compared to other companies that could be considered competitors such as Pepe Jeans in order to get a brief overview of the key players. Data on the more direct competitors such as Mud Jeans and Kings of Indigo could not be found as the brands are relatively small brand. Furthermore, the two main competitors is not selling in own stores, but only in other retail channels. Furthermore, it should be taken into account that the revenue of large groups as H&M group is the total revenue and not the total revenue for jeans only.
Levi’s
Annual revenue
Stores Worldwide
H&M Group
Diesel
Pepe Jeans
NUdie Jeans
Levis Annual Report, 2017. Bloomberg, 2017. 4,9 bio
Hoovers, 2017 Statista, 2017
Hoovers, 2017 Otb group, 2017
Hoovers, 2017 Pepe Jeans, 2017
Nudie, 2017
24 bio
4.5 bio
1.9 bio
50 mio
2900 stores
4739 stores
270 stores
173 stores
27 stores
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2.5 2.5SWOT SWOT 2.6 SWOT STRENGHTS
WEAKNESSES
• As Nudie Jeans was founded in 2001 with the core of creating sustainable and long lasting jeans the brand has a competitive advantage as was one of the early adaptors that offered sustainable jeans for the first time in 2012 • The brand offers 100% vegan jeans 100% organic cotton jeans • Unique value proposition of repairing and reusing and recycling the denim. • Communication represents the values of the company and is consistent with brand identity
OPPORTUNITIES
• As the brand states that a core value is being sustainable it can be seen as a weakness that some products are not organic and not vegan. (inconsistency) • Communication is vague.
THREATS
• Responding to the consumer demand of transparency • Responds to major macro trends as Betterment and sustainability. • Improving communication and storytelling
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• If market leaders as Levis and other mass market brands meets goals towards becoming sustainable options • Competitors have strong communication strategy. • Fake products sold under the Nudie Jeans name.
Figure 9: Sewing Machine. Charmaine Li, 2015
, t b u o d n I ”When ” m i n e d r a we 25
Nudie operates in Asia, North America, Oceania and Europe with a total of 26 stores and online distribution to 26 countries. (Nudie Jeans, 2018.)
North America
Asia
2.6 Global market
ASIA
• Sixs stores in Asia, five in Japan and one in Thailand (Bangkok) (Nudie, 2018) • Expanded to Asia with Flagship Store in Tokyo 2007 (Knight, 2009) • Following 2007 with key cities as Osaka-city and Shibuya-ku. The japanese cities are known for strong traditions with production of denim. (Fashionunited, 2009) • As Osaka is often referred to as “The denim mekka of the world” which means the competition is high. (Fashionunited, 2009) • It is considered that brands that are present in this area has a lot of prestige. • The chinese denim market has experienced growth with exported goods as a part of the desire to acquire the western fashion and western lifestyle. (Ps Marketresearch, 2018) • It can be interpret that the jeans are popular as fake Nudie jeans are flourishing in Asia which can affect the brand reputation and be a major threat to the market. (This is concluded by researching on blogs, forums and various asian websites such as XCdenimshop forum. • It is predicted that the Asian denim market will increase from 1,5 bio pairs of jeans in 2015 consumed to 2,3 bio by 2020. (Statista, 2018) • The Asian online apparel market alone is projected to reach $1.4 trillion by 2020. • “Sustainability in fashion often fails to be a priority for consumers in Asia(...)” (Fioni Fong,Ceo at Yeekoo, 2018) • Survey conducted to 10.000 chinese, 70% agreed that ”Safety and health” was the top reason for choosing sustainable products and services, while environmental friendliness and quality were the next two most popular reasons. (BOF, 2018)
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Place
Price North America
• Nudie opened the first store in Los Angeles in late 2014. (Directo-Meston, 2014.) In 2015 the brand opened the first flagship store in New York (Stevens, 2015.) • The denim market is expected to grow in size due to increase disposable income and casual wear gaining more popularity. (Business Wire, 2017.) • Market trends such as manufacturing with recycled denim and high increase in ecommerce sales will likely boost brands such as Nudie jeans. (Business Wire, 2017.) • Key leading player in America is Levi’s (Euromonitor, 2018) • 63% of americans are increasing their purchasing of green products and continually adopting more sustainable behaviors. (The Balance, 2018)
Figure 10: Nudie Store Berlin, Nudie, 2014 Figure 11; Nudie store London, Nudie, 2015
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Oceania Europe
• Australia: Nudie has 6 stores in Australia. First store opened in Sydney in 2010 followed by two store openings in Melbourne additionally two in Sydney and one in Brisbane in 2013. (Sportswear international, 2011) • A slow growth is expected by 2023, especially with growth in the mens denim market as it is argued that the male consumers will be willing to spend more and become more fashion conscious. (Euromonitor international, 2018) • H&M is considered to be the fastest growing brand in the jeans category in 2017 (Euromonitor, 2017) • In a survey by Oxfam it was concluded: ”89% of Australians would pay more for clothes to ensure safety of overseas garment workers” (Oxfam, 2016) • Nudie Jeans was founded in Sweden in 2001 and the first store was opened in Gothenburg followed by an opening in Stockholm and one more store in Gothenburg. • England: Two stores in London opened in 2013 in the upcoming and urban neighbourhood Soho and in East London’s Shoreditch. Both areas highly popular with both tourists and locals and are considered highly fashionable and creative environments. (Nudie, 2013) (Lendrum, 2013) London repair shop was a huge success with lead to more expansion in Europe. (Nudie, 2014.) • Switzerland: Flagship Store opened in 2010 (Gropler, 2010) • Germany: Two stores in Berlin and Munich opened in 2014. These stores were opened as Nudie claims that Germany at the time was the largest market and therefore responded to the demand by opening the stores in the two main cities (Nudie, 2014) • Nudie claims that the brand has sold over 1 mio pairs of jeans in the Netherlands which led to the latest store opening in Amsterdam in January 2018. (Nudie, 2018 • The European denim market is expected to increase due to growing popularity of casual clothing and changes in workwear attire. (Newswire, 2017.) • Research survey done in the U.K. found that when choosing among retailers, more than half of young consumers find ethical credentials somewhat or very important. (Morgan Stanley, 2016)
On the following page an in depth PESTEL analysis of the origin market has been created. 28
2.7 PESTel P E S T
• New Integration policies due to the high number of arrivals of refugees (Roden, 2017) • Politically stable country (Sveriges Riksdag, 2014) • The legislative power can only be exercised by the Swedish parlia• GDP per capita: 56935 US (Trading economics,2018) (Eurostat,2018) • High unemployment rate:6.4% (Eurostat, 2017) • Annual GDP growth rate 4.5%. (Eurostat, 2017) • One of the most developed welfare country in the world. (Ankarloo, 2009) • Sweden provides a free tax support on every trades except ag• Eco and sustainable trends taking over the fashion market (Trendwatch, 2017) • Highly aware of fashion and current trends (Swedentips, n.d) • Increasing consciousness for faithful production (Swedentips, n.d) • Well educated country. (Roden, 2017) • A minimum income and welfare system is provided for each citizen. (Nations encyclopedia, n.d.) • The population is highly digital oriented. (92,5% use the internet) (Lethinen, 2014) • Compared to other European countries Sweden has many technical leaders with companies such a Spotify and Skype. (Mitzner,
E
• Most sustainable country in the world (Swedentips, n.d.) • Natural resources include iron, copper, zinc, gold, silver and timber. (Wilde, 2016) • The country’s energy is largely privatised. (Wilde, 2016) • There has been a carbon tax in the country since 1995 (Roden, 2017) • Has the highest percentage of energy that is renewable in Europe. (Wilde, 2016)
L
• Belongs to the European Union • The judicial system consist of laws in Sweden. (Government.se, 2018) • Police, law enforcement, prosecution, courts, prisons and correctional services are a part of Sweden’s justice system. (Govern-
t h g i r e h ”Just t e i d u N ” t amoun 29
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n o r i v n e ’ s ”Nudie Jean s a w y h p o s o mental phil e r o f e b n e present ev i t c e l l o c the first k c a B . d e n g i on was des n o t t o c c i n then, orga r o f d n u o r a had been r o e r o m t u b a while, e h T . y b y l f less as a a f e s e h t demand for e d e h t n o brics was y l p p u s e h T crease. followed.” 8 1 0 o 2 , e i d u - CEO n
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Core values The core values of Nudie are social responsibility, sustainability and long lasting products. Linked to the brand’s Swedish heritage, the word “Lagom” translated to “just the right amount” is one of Nudie’s core values, which the brand strives to transmit and give importance to in every aspect from com-
munication to production and the core branding elements . (Nudie, 2018) Nudie collaborates with Fair Wear foundation to ensure safe and ethical working conditions throughout the whole line of production as one of the brand’s core value is transparency and fair trade. (Nudie, 2018.)
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e g a t i r e H d n a r B Nudie Jeans was founded in Gothenburg, Sweden in 2001 by Maria Erixson. The pursuit of doing the opposite of other brands is the main reason why the brand started and as well as their pure passion for raw denim. (Grosso, 2016.)
Figure 12: Nudie jeans with labels. Charmaine Li, 2015
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2.2 Brand wheel l a c i h t Nudie E s e u l a V The Brand Wheel portrays the attributes, essence, values, personality, benefits, character, values and all aspects that make Nudie Jeans. The explaination of each word is attached in the annex p.78 This correlates with Theodore Levitt theory of Marketing Myopia as the importance for organizations to clearly define their purposes and customer value taking in consideration a global and local scope is key. Nudie Jeans relies on strong ethical values and conducts follow-up operations within its supply chain and product, in order to generate a positive impact in the world and on its customer base.
Figure 13: Ethical Timeline, Nudie, 2016
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Concious Consumption Ethical conduct
Traceability
Material Research
Transparency
Fairtrade Ecological footprint
Men in general Social responsability
Upcycling
Water Waster
Second hand Unisex
Raw Materials
Design for
Sustainable Business model Organic Cotton
Recycling Research new materials
Reuse Durability
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Figure 14: Man working in Nudie. Charmaine Li, 2015
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2.3 Storytelling e m a N d n a r B Nudie is acting as an abbreviation for nudist and nudism that is undertaking a synonym for clarity, intimacy and transparency. Transparency builds trust and relationship, It reinforces the brand’s higher ethical standards being upfront about their behavior. Nudie is encouraging the consumer to commit to the product almost as a second skin, as something which cannot hide anything and is a part of the individual.
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COLORS The font evokes the feeling of playfulness, simplicity and transparency, which clearly portrays the brand core values. In addition, the selected colors white and black are the colors that despite their total chromatic opposition, represent the purity and cleanliness. Furthermore, Nudie uses orange as a trademark for the layout, labelling and product details as an association with meanings of joy, warmth, creativity and expression. Nudie attracts the attention of the eye by using a vibrant orange that has a high visibility, which means that Nudie is remembered and recognised by the rather alternative colour as the brand uses the colour coherently on all types of communication.
TONE OF VOICE
TAGLINE ””THE NAKED TRUTH ABOUT DENIM” Nudie is passionate about the use of dry, raw and untreated product materials alongside with the core value of a balancing production and consumption for a more sustainable future. “The naked truth about denim” appeals to the connotations about being stripped all naked and being completely honest and vulnerable. The consumer is invited to know the “naked truth” or as it could be understood the whole truth about denim. Therefore, Nudie connects to honesty and being transparent in the communication.
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Nudie’s tone of voice is sincere, transparent, close, educative, clear. The tone is very informative in a simple way that people with or without knowledge of sustainability and recycling can understand.
Brand Codes On the following pages three brand codes will be identifyed and explained
Figure 3: reference
Figure 15: Man sewing. Charmaine Li, 2015. Figure 16: Details sewing. Charmaine Li, 2015
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The idea is embodying Nudie Jeans as a dear friend to the client. Nudie offers “Free repairs for life” which portrays how the brand assists its customers, so that just because the client “had a fight” with his jeans, it does not mean they can not mend it. Consequently, the brand attempts to give a trustful, transparent, and proximate tone of voice to the user by both, providing a good and intimate experience, and generating valuable interaction and knowledge about the brand’s commitment and its products.
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Figure 17: Girls Laughing. Rookiemag, 2016. Figure 18: Text from paper. Die Welt, 2018. Figure 19: Friends. WB Television, 1995. Figure 20: Jeans. Polyvore, n.d.
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This comparison is based on stating that “No fabric ages as beautifully as denim”;
The perception enables the dialogue within customers who already know and like the brand, together with other ones who desire or have already developed a shopping experience. Jeans are shaped with lifestyle, becoming the user’s second skin and establishing a relationship.
Figure 21: Drawing of man. Nudie, 2018. Figure 22: Male on Cardboard. Comme des Garcons, n.d. Figure 23: Portrait of Ian Somerhalder. Unknown source, N,d.
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Nudie stands for slow lifestyle and having “just the right amount” of products Values quality and design rather than immediacy. The brand only works with suppliers that share its values. To ther with Fair Wear Foundation, the brand ensures safe and ethical working conditions in all aspects of the supply chain.
Nudie helps consumers on its sustainable transformation, The brand appeals to those looking to interact by sharing and listening to other people’s stories. “The Journal” makes the consumer engage more with the brand as it is more personal, intimate, and human to human communication.
44 Figure 24: Stacked denim, Nudie Jeans, 2018
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2.4 Emotional Connec
Figure 25: Man sewing. Charmaine Li, 2015.
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ction &&
y t l a y o L g Creatin Emotional connection is the foundation for creating loyalty amongst consumers. The emotional universe build around Nudie has the core concept of the sustainable and ethical living. Nudie appeals to the consumers consciousness by using words with positive connotations such as: Fair Trade, conscious consumption, environmental friendly. The consumer of Nudie not only buys a pair of jeans, but the feeling of contribution and the feeling of giving something back to the society and the planet while getting the desired product. Furthermore, Nudie acclaims that by buying a product it is “A way to get the balance right” which appeals to the consumer that might not act very conscious about the social or environmental responsibility
in many aspects and the consumer can therefore feel good when buying Nudie products. (Borromero, 2014) As it is known from the book Buyology by author Martin Lindstrøm consumers respond to the subconsciousness when buying today which is known to release dopamine which makes the consumer feel good in the moment, but this is a very short term happiness. Nudie appeals to the consumers by making them “feel good” about the purchase as the product is not meant to be a “flyby-night fad” (Nudie, 2018) instead a long term investment. Nudie attaches emotions to the product by encouraging the consumers to give the pair of jeans a character and make “your own individual jeans stories.”
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Identity Furthermore, the products are given human names such as Terry, Lenny and Hampus, which humanizes the products and gives the product a personality, which creates an emotional connection with the target. (Nudie, 2018)
y c n e r a p s Tran Additionally, Nudie aims for full transparency in order to appear reliable for the consumer as this is one thing consumers values. In this way Nudie invites the consumer to be a part of the process which creates intimacy and humanizes the brand. This is seen as the slogan is “The naked truth about denim” which plays with intimacy and honesty.
y a t s s y a w ”We’ll al ” . s n a e j o true t - Nudie 48
Figure 26:Man with Scissor. Charmaine Li, 2015. Figure 27: Shelves. Charmaine Li, 2015
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y r d r u o y g n i r ”Wea g n o l a r o f m i n de . f f o y a p l l i w time r e p o r p e h t o t e Du o g i d n i e h t f o ties l l i w r o l o c e dye, th e h T . f f o b u r y l slow e h t , r a e w u o y e r mo e l y t s e f i l r u o y more .” d e l a e v e r e b l l wi - NUDie, 2018
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3.1 POS The current campaign of Nudie is named “Get the Balance right” In the conducted interview with the sales assistant, Maria Sanchez it is clear that the staff is trained to understand and teach consumers about the core values of the garment processes alongside with information about the material and origin of the products.1 Maria Sanchez explains the core values of the brand stating that “it is all about transparency” and the different processes and material used for each garment.
STORE DISPLAY The shop presents a minimalistic aesthetic, preserving the Scandinavian style merged with industrial design. Raw walls and bricks are visible, connecting with the Nudie Jeans core products and values For the merchandising elements, denim leftovers, cotton plants and other plants are part of Nudie’s visual merchandising. Furthermore, posters with an informative goal are also displayed and the product life-cycle and their values. All elements create a feeling of rawness, yet are welcoming to visitors.
WINDOW DISPLAY The store is located on the corner of Torrent de L´Olla in a local neighbourhood in Barcelona and has three windows displays where the logo is clearly visible. “THE REPAIR SHOP” is written in one of the windows, as information for customers that the service is available. Nudie visual merchandising strategy is product oriented with a display of poster with pictures of the campaign “Non Tox Tux” stating their core message “Get the balance right” as a call to action.
TAGS
The labels for the product are made out of recycled paper and cardboard. They also display information about the product materials “made with 100% organic cotton”, its origins and where the product was manufactured.
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Please see the full interview in the annex p.80 52
” t h g i r e c n a l a B e h t ”Get 53
Figure 28,29,30: Nudie Jeans store, Carrer de Ramón y Cajal, Grácia. Gonzalo Edo, 2018
AIDAr MODEL An in store shop observation and interview with a shop attendant named Maria was conducted in order to conduct following analysis. The AIDA model or AIDAR stands as a communications model where it defines how to communicate to customers at each stage of the purchase process.
The Interviewee especially highlighted that sales assistants are continuously educated through workshops to have knowledge about the brand´s operations and values. A well-trained sales assistant helps guiding the customer through the purchase process.
Figure 31: Orange thread, Charmaine Li, 2015.
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Retention
• Emotional connection: The consumer of Nudie not only buy a pair of jeans, but the feeling of contribution and the feeling of giving something back to the society and the planet while getting the desired product. • Product: Jeans have names and it is a way of humanizing the product. The products labels writes “100% Organic Cotton”
Interest
• Visual Merchandising • At the entrance there is a shelved wall containing all range of jeans • Small décor items (cotton plants in the shelves and posters with information about the brand.
Action
Desire
Aawareness
l e d o M r a d Ai
• Free repair service. Loyalty and retention of customers is partially done with the repair service. Customers will come back to the shop to benefit from this free service.
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• POS: Through posters, stickers and written walls with quotes, Nudie Jeans informs the visitors about their values, social responsibility, social proof. • Sustainable product: Nudie Jeans claims to use 100% organic cotton for the production of their products especially jeans. The company seeks to have a positive environmental impact and social responsibility.
• Redirection: Visual merchandising and product labels have call to actions to visit the online website.
Offline Events is a familiar marketing tactic that establishes a close human to human (H2H) relationship to Nudie is applying this to the Swedish market through some of the following events: As a part of “Get the balance right” campaign Nudie Jeans offers the repair service to all of the consumers Nudie Jeans by doing a Mobile Repair station tour in several countries as UK, Netherlands and Germany. The repair station is in cities where the brand does not have shops which makes it available to every customer in the mentioned cities Additionally, Nudie Jeans offers repair kits for 19€ that can be ordered online whereas the
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customer is offered a DIY option of repairing jeans. (Nudie, 2018) Furthermore, Nudie hosts a semi-regular event named “Hosted by” in the homecity Gothenburg in Sweden. The brand invites musicians from the area to perform for the local community for free. As the brand claims: “A club concept in which we have dedicated to giving back to our community here in our hometown of Gothenburg” which is a concept that turned out to be a popular event to attend to in Gothenburg. (Nudie, 2018) A part of this strategy moreover includes live sessions with musicians that are held in the Nudie Headquarters in Sweden.
3.2 In media
In February the brand collaborated with Gothenburg Film Festival to create the official festival tee in organic cotton alongside with a limited collection designed for this event. However, communication for these events is only found in a particular section �the journal� section on the website, but not on any other platforms. (Nudie, 2018) Figure 32: Sewing kit, Nudie, 2018.
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Figure 33,34,35: Mobile Repair station video. Nudie, 2018
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l l i w s n a e j ” Your ” . y t u a e b fade to - Nudie 59
Figure 36: Concert with Sarah Klang. Nudie Jeans, 2018. Figure 37: Concert with Iceage. Nudie Jeans, 2018
Youtube
• 154.000 followers • Product / lookbook pictures • Few reposts from influencers and bloggers wearing products • Using Instagram stories to inform. Usually very informing rather than entertaining. • Post daily or every other day • Very low interaction and engagement (Calculated and estimated Interaction rate of 1,27) • Use of #nudiejeans #organic denim #Selvage • Using IG shopping liking the profile with the websop
North America
ONLINE
• 240.322 likes • Regular updates with photos of products and lookbooks. • “Typically replies in a day” (active on Facebook)
• Videos from events such as “Hosted by” music sessions, products and production cycle. • Fair amount of user generated content on YouTube about the Brand (WOM and brand exposure) • 3,697 subscribers
• 22.500 Followers • 5361 tweets with same content as on the other social media channels.
• 94.3 K monthly viewers • Last updated in 2014 • 6 Boards: repairs, accessories, this is Nudie jeans, worn in Nudie (Only product) • Youtube
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Figure 38: Nudie Facebook homepage. Nudie Jeans, 2018. Figure 39,40: Nudie Instagram page, Nudie Jeans 2018
ONLINE Marketing is traditionally perceived as a battle of products, but as brands move into marketing 3.0 it is now a battle of perceptions. According to Al Ries and Jack Trout’s 22 Immutable Laws of Marketing, the Law of Perception, the premise that a product determines the good or bad performance of the marketing program is completely wrong. It is the prospects and customers minds which determine it, according to the perception which has been created on them. Nudie Jeans brand’s communication is highly product oriented, and therefore storytelling is. In addition, Nudie’s content on the different social media and web page is lacking in storytelling, in order to connect with audience. The content is mainly product oriented and it can be argued that visuals and creativity in communication is absent. Visual content studies show online readers pay close attention to information carrying videos (Mawhinney, 2014). In fact, when the videos or images are relevant, viewers spend more time looking at the content than they do reading text on the page.
e d t n e s e r p e r s n a e ”J ” n o i h s a F mocracy in i n a m r A o - Giogi 62
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Figure 41: ”Fearless Freddie”, Nudie, 2017 Figure 42: Hypebeast visits Nudie Jeans, Hypebeast, 2014. Figure 43: ”Nudie Jeans Velvet”, Nudie, 2018
Conclusion / After in depth investigation of the brand and strategies that are used it has been concluded that Nudie communication is highly product oriented. Therefore, it is suggested that Nudie moves into Marketing 3.0 in order to connect with the consumer on an emotional level. Furthermore, in order to stay relevant, it is advised that Nudie responds to Marketing 4.0 and implements the digital universe in the company’s communication plan. Please see attached table of suggestions for Nudie Jeans.
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s n o i t a d n e m m Future reco • Incorporate scent marketing in store to trigger emotions that will be the “trademark” of Nudie • Develop more storytelling using the aspect of how jeans accompany you throughout life, both in order to enhance the connection to the consumers and spreading through the omnichannel. I remember when I first went to a music festival, when I painted my first apartment #Jeanstories • Continue to build on the “personas” of the jeans and develop personality and story of each “persona” • Use different media channels and different content for more exposure. • Generate WOM by communicating events on owned platforms • Be consistent on digital platforms • Create more content about the whole journey of the jeans from production to consumer. • Be relevant and up-to-date on digital platforms • Create global events for all markets in order to engage with the consumers worldwide • Use of all tools on the platforms such as IG TV, livestream etc • Collaborations with influencers or other brands to gain exposure
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d l u o c I h �I wis g n i h t e m o s invent . s n a e j e u l like b e b o t g n i Someth � r o f d e r e remeb l o h r a W y d - An
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Books DK (2014) The Business Book : Big Ideas Simply explained Lindstrรถm, M. (2008). Buyology. New York: Currency Doubleday. Ries, A. and Trout, J. (1994). The 22 immutable laws of marketing. Roger, M. (2009). The Design Of Business. Harvard Business School Press.
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Images
Comme des Garcons, (2018), Male on Cardboard [ONLINE]. Available at: http://alwaysliveagain. tumblr.com/post/129593855188 [Accessed 23 October 2018]. Charmaine Li, (2015), Sewing Machine [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.ignant.com/2015/12/03/ behind-the-scenes-nudie-jeans/?fbclid=IwAR1iwvj9gczXYC4jTsCvs7DNVCm_npK8rjAsFPwskngjCa-DKEL2rkW3kt0 [Accessed 24rd October 2018]. 72
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n o y r t y l l �I usua s r i a p 0 2 t at leas e r o f e b s n of jea g n i h t e m o I find s n o d o o g s that look , n e h t n e v e me. And t s u r t a I have d n e i r f y h wort t t u b y m f tell me i � . g i b s k o lo T E E P A D N A - AM
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5.1 Market trends y t i l i b a n i Susta Nudie is acting as an abbreviation for nudist, and nudism, for its part, is undertaking as a synonym for something that stands out for its clarity, for its transparency. Transparency in this internal context builds trust and relationship, and makes the user feel that he/she is not just acquiring a product from a company. It reinforces the brand’s higher ethical standards being upfront about their behavior. The brand is encouraging the user to feel these jeans and its commitment as something so clear
t n e m r e t t e B Nudie Jeans is based on several concepts and beliefs. Its passion for dry, raw, untreated fabric and its fight for a balanced production and consumption, which edge the brand in the direction of sustainability. When the brand was created, the demand for these fabrics was on the decrease. Despite this, the brand decided to manufacture their product in an ethical and fair way. However, the share of sustainable materials increased over the years, and since 2012 all Nudie Jeans denim is made with 100% organic cotton. The brand’s claim is based on designing jeans to be cherished, mended and 76
Sincere, transparent, close, educative, clear.
y c n e r a p s Tran Nudie Jeans is based on several concepts and beliefs. Its passion for dry, raw, untreated fabric and its fight for a balanced production and consumption, which edge the brand in the direction of sustainability. When the brand was created, the demand for these fabrics was on the decrease. Despite this, the brand decided to manufacture their product in an ethical and fair way. However, the share of sustainable materials increased over the years, and since 2012 all Nudie Jeans denim is made with 100% organic cotton. The brand’s claim is based on desig-
Nordic minimalism Nudie Jeans is based on several concepts and beliefs. Its passion for dry, raw, untreated fabric and its fight for a balanced production and consumption, which edge the brand in the direction of sustainability. When the brand was created, the demand for these fabrics was on the decrease. Despite this, the brand decided to manufacture their product in an ethical and fair way. However, the share of sustainable materials increased over the years, and since 2012 all Nudie Jeans denim is made with 100% organic cotton. The brand’s claim is based on desig-
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5.2 Description of Brand Wheel Concious Consumption Ethical conduct
Traceability
Material Research
Transparency
Fairtrade Ecological footprint
Men in general Social responsability
Upcycling
Water Waster
Second hand Unisex
Raw Materials
Design for
Sustainable Business model Organic Cotton
Recycling Research new materials
Reuse Durability
Nudie Jeans Brand Wheel, starting from the inside to the outside, is first divided into men in general, which is the main target whereas Nudie extended into unisex as the brand launched a women capsule collection in summer 2018. After that, two big branches are developed. First of all, it can understood that Nudie’s business model is based on the production of sustainable jeans. The words “Reuse”, “Recycle” refer to how can jeans be repaired and reused due to the free jeans repair service located at the physical shops. Furthermore, sus-
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tainability is crucial and all cotton is certified organic by GOTS, Eco-cert, OCS and EU Organic standards (Nudie, 2018). Second of all, it is pointed out how Nudie Jeans takes its material’s social responsibility very seriously, by it being transparent, upcycling, taking low ecological footprint and reinforcing the importance of the conscious consumption. The brand is always investing and investigating on how to be leaders in reducing the footprint of the materials they use in their production.
0 . 1 g n i t e k Mar Traditional advertising that is product oriented.
Marketing 2.0 Brands focus on satisfying consumer needs by accessing market insights and creating products and services based on needs.
Marketing 3.0 Connecting with the consumer on an emtional level. Moving into an era where it is key to attach emotions to the product. Brands are acting as humans by communicating H2H (human to human)
Marketing 4.0 Brands are adapting to the major shift and possibility with technology, which means that the brands are entering a digital era.
Source: Jaime Romeu IED Barcelona 2017/2018
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Place
Nudie’s main product is the raw dry denim jeans for men, women and children. Other additional products are jackets, knits, sweat and t-shirts, underwear and accessories. The Kotler model is defined as the product being more than physical. It can be anything offered to a market. The Nudie Jeans product is central, yet englobes services to its customers that provide a better experience of the brand. The product is in an augmented stage where its additional features and related services such as the repair service are differentiators from the competition.
Nudie promotes their products and value through social media channels such as Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, LinkedIn and Pinterest. Their main messages on social media channels are transparency, sustainability, conscious consumption and Nudie’s product and aesthetics.
Price
Promotion
Product
5.2 the 4 p´s
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Nudie’s own stores are based in Sweden, Germany, Netherlands, Norway, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Los Angeles and New York in Europe and America. Furthermore Nudie has stores in Japan, Thailand, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Alongside with web shop that ships within Europe and their retailers range over 50 countries.(Nudie, 2018)
The minimum price of Nudie pair of jeans is 109 euros and ranges until 199 euros. Special edition pairs are 299 euros each. So the price is based in middle to high section. (Nudie, 2018)
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5.3 Interview In order to understand better the brand an interview was conducted in the physical point of sale to the shop assistant, Maria. The objectives of this interview were: To have a more detailed customer profile. To know if the Jean Repair Service was used by customers. To have a clearer idea of possible competitors. Alternative activities the brand conducted to engage with customers. Tell us a bit more about the shop look and feel. Why this aesthetic? All the shops are different yet they keep the same feeling. Normally stores display all the denim rage in shelves and hangers are used for other pieces of clothing. In Barcelona, there is a big shelved wall with the whole collection to create an impact to the first-timers. Do you do any workshop or seminars? Our store is a place where we aim to educate the consumer. I got to visit several stores to teach staff members through educational workshops on CSR. Consequently, they are trained to deliver excellent customer service at the point of sale and communicate the values of the brand and its social responsibility. We want our employees to know better, to be specialist in denim and sustainability than in other denim brands. That is what makes us different. Plus, in the future, there are plans of implementing workshops for customers at the shop so they can live a more interactive experience. Which partners does Nudie Jeans work with? Nudie Jeans works following the European Sustainability Program* and partners with multiple organizations and companies that help to have a control over the correct implementation of its ethical code. Moreover, you can find all the details about its partners and the product life-cycle on nudiejeans.com. What is the typical customer look like? The Nudie Jeans customer is someone who prioritizes quality over quantity. Nudie Jeans was a unisex brand and this year the company included a capsule collection for women. Usually having a middle-high income in different industries, our clients come back because of the comfort our denim provides. The fit is also important for them. They are sensitive to the environment who usually like to have a garment that generates a positive impact on society. They like to be assisted in store and spend a large amount of time in store trying to find the perfect jeans. What’s the average age of the customer? Customer´s age range varies between their thirties and fifties more or less.
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Is the repair service used by customers? Yes definitely, customers love the repair service and use it a lot. Most of the customers use the repair service at least one time. Where would customers buy as an alternative to NJ? I can't think of any place right now. We have big loyalty from our customers that appreciate as I said before, quality over quantity. Here in Barcelona, there aren't big denim competitors being as sustainable and ethical as Nudie.
Figure 39: Nudie Jeans, Carrer de Ramón y Cajal, Grácia. Gonzalo Edo, 2018
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