Givenchy Exposed - CWK1 In design

Page 1


Michelle Selch Laursen, CWK 2,Adobe In design Nicolas Godon, Word count: 2928 5FAMK003C Visual and Video Techniques BA Fashion Marketing and Communication


x


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Content Coporate prof i le. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Editorial brief .................16 Givenchy Exposed ..............26 Catalogue .........................38 Mini site ...........................50 Bibliography ....................60 Annex ...............................64


o d r o y a s o t e �If you hav , l a i s r e v o r t n o c g n i h t e m o s l l i w e l p o e p aim so that .� t i e v o l y e h t hate that


x Corporate

profile


H i s t o r y In 1952 Hubert de Givenchy founded the Parisian brand Givenchy. The designer was known for elegant silhouettes and clean lines that enhance the woman

body, which was the foundation of his creations. Givenchy is famous for shaping Audrey Hepburn’s iconic look especially since the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s, but Givenchy also dressed other icons

such

as Jacqueline Kennedy and Grace Kelly (Givenchy, U.d) (Katie, 2012) Hubert de Givenchy retired in

1995 and was followed by rising stars John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, individuals who added

an edgy feel and personality to the brand. (Katie, 2012) Givenchy became more dramatic in the designs aesthetic, which continued during Riccardo

Tisco’s direction where the gothic aesthetic for the first time appeared in a Givenchy collection. Tisco

was the one that turned an image of a Rottweiler into designs that became highly attractive among

the young generation. (WWD, 2017) In 2017 Clare Waight Keller took over the artistic direction and

Keller is known for her feminine aesthetic from her

8

Christopher Owens photographed by Hedi Slimane, 2012


period as creative director at Chloé, but her new

vision for Givenchy seems sexier and darker than what Givenchy has done before.

(Petty, 2017)

Givenchy has in general

focused on a younger tar-

get in the recent years, which especially have been

seen in the designs, how-

ever this young spirit is something that is overloo-

UST M S S E R D ”A Y D O B E H T W O FOLL OT N , N A M O W OF A W O L L O F Y D O THE B PE A H S E H T ING .” S S E R D E H OF T venchy i G e D t r e b u H

ked in the communication

Market

seems to target men and

Givenchy is a high-end luxury label with ready to

and the communication still women in the age of their late 20s-50 years old.

position

wear prices starting from 200€ and beauty products from 80€. (MyTheresa,2017) Givenchy has ready-to-wear and couture collections for both women and men. Additionally, Givenchy has a beauty line that covers makeup, skincare products and fragrances to both men and women. (Givenchy, 2017) Since 1988 the brand has been a part of the LVMH group that contributed to a solid market position, as it is a dominant player in the luxury market. (LMVH, u.d.)

Recently, the main competitors of

Givenchy are Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and #YSL04 By Anthony Vaccarello, 2016

Balmain that are operating in the high-end luxury market and attempts to target the young generation.


C u r r e n t

aesthetic is very edgy and is likely ap-

s i t u a t i o n

ence. However, this is not the case in the

plied in order to attract a younger audi-

campaigns and editorials that often are

As stated before Givenchy is a part of

very glamorous and has a formal feel to

all revenue of LVMH was 37,600 mio

of the Rottweiler in a campaign it seems

hion

dog appears it seems like a mockery and

the LVMH luxury good group. The over-

it. When Givenchy using the famous icon

â‚Ź in 2016 and the revenue of fas-

very

ce 2015. (LVMH Annual report, 2016)

the fierce dog is made to a “fun� object

category

increased

by

3%

sin-

glamorous and in editorials where

instead of making it coherent with the t-shirt that is rather violent. Furthermore,

Communicati-

the models used are icons from the pre-

on Background

vious generation such as Gisele Bundchen,

As stated above, Givenchy focuses on at-

ence. (An example is attached in the an-

tracting a younger audience in the age

ranging from 15-28. This can be seen in

the designs whereas the Rottweiler has

become the image of Givenchy. Furthermore, it can be discovered on the Instagram account

of

Donatella Versace, and Naomi Campbell

who are not connecting with a young audi-

nex p.64+65) This is the reason why this brief will focus on making the brand provocative in the communication department

and making it coherent with the designs.

Givenchy

that it is desired to give a more dramatic

angle to the brand by framing

images

with

a black border. (See attached

images

in

the annex p.66) The Monochromic brothers, Fucking Young

10


Yves Saint Laurent SS17, photographed by Collier Schorr

d n a r i a h r u o �Flip y e h t s i t i e k i l dance � . e f i l r u o y f o last nigth


”Give me liberty, or give me death.”

Communication Task The task will be to make Givenchy more dramatic

and give the brand a provocative angle so Givenchy

can succeed attracting a younger audience. It is also desired that Givenchy takes a stand and gets involves in the debate of the women’s rights that is

a current cultural movement. The brand should react

to current events and should give their interpretation of the happenings in the communication aspect

and use it to their power. The campaign will focus female empowerment and send a message to young girls about self-confidence, but also Givenchy’s ide-

al woman is not a perfect model, but a woman with

power, attitude, imperfections with a hint of rebelli-

12

#YSL04 By Anthony Vaccarello, 2016


ous. Instead of focusing on the polished part of a brands communication, which is models that are perfect, it is desired what is desired to build through this brief. to make the production seem more

Goals

raw and underground. It is desired to remain the exclusivity of the brand,

but bringing the brand into the stre- The main goal is to engage with the younger ets in order to make it relatable and audience, but also to gain attention in the

inspirational to a younger audience. public and make a statement about some values that will attract a younger and

Target

market

more alternative audience. It is desired to be provocative and push the limits in order

to use the effect of Word of Mouth where

this will be discussed as a public subject.

The target market for Givenchy is It is also desired to make Givenchy a more

both men and women estimated to “down to earth brand” not just through

be in their late 20s to 50. Howe- the designs, but also through the communiver, this brief will focus on attrac- cation as well as creating a story and vating and engaging with the new ge- lues that can be used for future campaign. neration from 15-25. It is desired to make Givenchy in order to

”down to earth”

connect with potential

leads from the young segment. A co-

herent story and values are a crucial

, r e v e t a ”Wh y m e k a m l l i wi ” s e l u r n ow


Sources of

What to

inspiration

not

do

As Yves Saint Laurent is one of the It is very important to dare “going all main competitors that are succeeding at- in” by using more alternative models that tracting a younger audience by communi- have more raw looks, alternative setcating a ”cool” vibe by edgy and provoca- tings and in general a more provocative tive images it is one of the main sources point of view. It is important that the

of inspiration. Looking at the communica- whole concept is taken seriously so it tion from when Hedi Slimane was creati- does not become another typical Givenve director for YSL (Image to the right chy piece. However, it should be expecand the previous pages), but also the recent Saint Laurent series by Anthony

Vaccarello is the ideal and wished dire-

ction for Givenchy while maintaining the feminity from the roots of the brand.

#YSL04 By Anthony Vaccarello, 2016

14

ted that some people will find it offensive, and therefore

it is necessary to

have the target audience limits in mind.


Yves Saint Laurent Pre Fall 16, by Hedi Slimane

e v a h t n ´ d l u o h ”A woman s c e p s e r e b to be modest to w o h k o o l d l ted. She shou .” s t n a w e h s r eve



x Editorial Brief


Setting

The concept

The editorial is named ”Exposed” and consists of four chapters each

with a name as following Exposed 1.0:

Fearless,

Exposed

2.0:

Na-

ked, Exposed 3.0: Dazed, Exposed 4.0: Attitude. Every word has been

chosen in order to communicate the values of the campaign that is fe-

male empowerment. The series is all about femininity showcased in a more

provocative way. The editorial is a darker and more youthful version of Givenchy where high fashion meets the street in an urban environment.

It is desired to communicate the ideal

Givenchy woman who is all about self

confidence, attitude, being fearless and then the fact that the woman

body will be showed naked in order to celebrate the woman body and communicate

that

The shoot will take place in a raw and more

environment

with

possibilities of shooting in a basement

where the texture of cement will be key, but also a basement that will be filled with some furniture’s such as a

couch. (See example in editorial) The

location will be scouted the day before

as the location determines the who-

le setting and it is desired to scout around Paris in Saint-Denis, Banlieues and the more urban parts of Paris. The environment needs to be edgy

and is reliant to the whole editorial, which is the reason why the exact

location is scouted the day before. The location will mainly be decided by Alastair McKimm and

the photograp-

hers as they will determine what fits best with the concept and their vision.

a

woman can be vulne-

rable and strong at

the same time without being

underground

sexualised.

YSL SS17 Freja Beha

by Collier Schnorr.

18


Cajsa Wessberg, Le Management 2017

d e p p a r w l r i g �I am a good up as a bad�


Diana Silvers, IMG Models 2017

e r a e w , s e n o e ”We are th l l i w t a h t s r the warrio .” d l r o w e h t e sav 20


Art

Direction The direction will be by Alastair McKimm

known for his bold style and more provocative aesthetic that is often shown through

his work as fashion director of i-D magazine. (Examples can be seen on the following page 24) Additionally, McKimm is notable for his work for high fashion brands where her often brands in a new direction. (ArtandCommerce,

2018) He is known

for the modern take on traditional fashion brands while remembering the roots.

Styling The hairstylist and makeup artist will by

Model casting The casting will be through different agencies where the requirement is diverse and alternative models that have a different

look from the typical “pretty girl” yet a

model that have a polished look in order

to fit with the exclusivity of the brand. In all three female models have been chosen, First of all the top model Slick Woods who has is a raw beauty with a

dark skin tone and the imperfections with her teeth from Lion agency. Furthermore, the natural beauty Diana Silvers from

IMG models and lastly Cajsa Wessberg a bald beauty from Le management that adds an alternative vibe to the shooting.

Holli Smith known for a natural and messy

Photographers

for this shooting. (ArtPartner, 2018) In

The photographers will be the popular duo

hair needs to look messy and fit in with the

raw and provocative fashion photography

look, which is exactly what, is the styling

order to get a feeling of authenticity the urban style. However, it is desired that

the models still look exclusive and luxurious so the look does not become trashy.

Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott known for seen in Vogue Italia, Numeró and pop magazine. The duo is known for capturing the

essence of a powerful woman while main-

taining the sophisticated touch. Furthermore, the duo often shots in black and

white focusing on nudity, which is why the photographers are chosen to this editorial.

However, Givenchy often uses the duo as photographers of their campaigns, though it is decided to use the personal touch


that is often seen when the photograp-

model

more raw and provocative.The duo created

the models and the creative team including

hers shots editorials that normally are

the ad Givenchy Jeans 2015 with topless top models, but the breasts are censored. (see annex p.65) This will not be the case

in this editorial as it is desired to show

the female body as it naturally looks. As

first model. Furthermore, a

take place a week before the shooting. Lastly, a team should scout the furnitu-

res and additionally props a week before.

desired to move towards see imag below Paris shot by the duo. Additionally, the

personal retouches of Mert & Marcus retouchers will be used for the shooting in

order to give the images the desired touch

the photographers, the art director and

fitting with

Alastair McKimm and Holli Smith should

a source of inspiration that is direction

from the series “La fiévere” for vogue

she should be confirmed as the

Schedule

The brief will be for the F/w 2019 collection

and

campaign.

The

who-

le F/W 19 communication both editorials and campaigns will be aligned with the

concept

explained

in

this

brief.

creative director of Givenchy agrees on.

Preparation As stated above, the location have to be scouted a day before the shooting. Furthermore, the models need to be boo-

ked months in advantage and Woods

is

a

as Slick

popular

“La fièvre Grunge” by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott for Vogue Paris, 2013

22


Binx Walton shot by Daniel Jackson styled by Alastair Mckimm

o T m a I , t a h ”You know w ” n m a d a e v i glam to g


YOUTH

Sex

Attitude

armo

YOu

Raw Nude

r

What

Game

eve

r

Daze

Who Me Gaps l Care Natu ral s? Lady

Roya Risks

queen ! ! ! ! DAre Hey

Wink DON

E

TWO

Iconic

FUck

Flirt

Bad xxx girl

like

Alwa

ys

LIFE

Liberty

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!

YES

Fea r less

exposed


Slick Woods, photographed by David Roemer 2017

r u o y o t e z a d ” Add some d n a e d u t i t t a bad ass u o y t a h t d l r o show the w ” . y r a n i d r o are not



x Givenchy Exposed


Models: Diana Silvers, Slick Woods, Cajsa Wessberg. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus. Stylist & Art director: Alastair McKimm. Hairstylist: Holli Smith

Fearless



Model: Diana Silvers. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus. Stylist & Art director: Alastair McKimm. Hairstylist: Holli Smith

S

a n g n i k c u “we are all f ? ? t a h t w o n k ked... did you

Naked


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Sex

Tou gh life Hey

PArty

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Iconic Passion

Royal

Why n o t ? Bare

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skin

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Looks

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Nude

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ME

Queen

l r i g d X X X Ba girl h ey


Models: Diana Silvers, Slick Woods, Cajsa Wessberg. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus. Stylist & Art director: Alastair McKimm. Hairstylist: Holli Smith

Dazed



FREE

Trash

Se

e c i t o power N

provoke Ecs ta g n i k Ris

Skin Naked

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Wild You

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Intimate

Raw

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P a s sion Lux

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Me


Models: Diana Silvers, Slick Woods. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus. Stylist & Art director: Alastair McKimm. Hairstylist: Holli Smith

Attitude



x catalogue


The concept of catalogue is the same as the concept throughout the book. The format is A4 and the catalogue will be in a leather

cover. The styles will appear in black and white photography with a

quote or a word in order to align it with the whole Givenchy Exposed aesthetic. It is decided to be a catalogue as it is for the public

to understand the setting and vibe of the campaign and the overall artistic change of Givenchy. However, the catalogue might seem like a look book as the products are just displayed, but as quo-

tes and text pages are added it will be a catalogue of inspiration that indicates the whole concept rather than just the plain outfits.


Look 1. Wool Jacket style 145, Leather belt with studs style 238, Leather cuffs style 234, Leather gloves style 226, Studded heel style 88, Warrior necklace style 36. Model: Diana Silvers. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.

i v r u s o t r o m �This is my a � d l r o w y z a ve this cr

40


Look 2. Embroided Medieval dress style 89,Waarior necklace style 36, Warrior bracelet style 37, Dazed clutch style 56. Model: Diana Silvers. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.


Sex US

RAW

ME

You

s

e l b u o r T

Attitude

XX

y d La

Passion !!!!

Whatever

dare

E C A F

Unique

Armor

ART

Power

NO RU LES Kin g qu een

Fear less

Daze G d RAC E

Care less Why

42

not?

no.1


Look 3. Fitted slim blazer style 94, Leather necklace style 38 Leather belt with studs style 238, Leather gloves with cuffs style 234, Medieval pleated skirt style 114, Long boot with studs style 87. Model: Diana Silvers Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.

e


Look 4. Wool jacket with leather details and skirt style 148, Studded heel style 88,Leather gloves with cuffs style 234, Model: Cajsa Wessberg. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.

s i h t f o n e e u q �I am the g n o r t s m a I d world an s i h t e l d n a h enough to shit alone�

44


Queen


Look 5. Delicate lace dress style 65, leather belt with studs style 23, silver clutch style 43, Warrior necklace style 36 Heel with cut outs style 78, Model: Cajsa Wessberg. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.

46


Look 6. Fitted blazer jacket with long back style 176, blazer pants style 177, Warrior earrings style 32, warrior rings style 31, Model: Diana Silvers. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.

t c A t s u j e l i �Once in a wh s s e r d t u b , y like a lad like a man.�


Look 7. Fitted leather jacket with wool details style 156, leather skirt style 169, Leather gloves with cuffs style 234, wool clutch style 12 Studded heel style 88, next page: Leather bag with studs style 17 Model: Diana Silvers. Photographed by: Mert and Marcus.

P

m i o t p u s ”I don´t dres p u s s e r d I . s y press bo ” f l e s y m s s e r to imp

48


DAre

Attitude

Hey

YOu

Raw Nude

Fea Warrior Whateve r r less YOUTH Daze

armo

r

xxx

Bad girl

Risks

!!!!

Wink !!!!!

Liberty ble

Par

Alwa

Stud

ys

s

US

FUck

exposed

Trou

Iconic

Hey!

Wh

!

care MISfit s? D

ty Gaze

o

Azz

le


x Mini site


The concept of the mini site is the same as the editorial concept of

focusing on the four chapters. In the editorial every spread is like a “chapter” with a certain name. On the mini site these chapters can

be explored where the public especially focused on the younger audi-

ence can discover more about the specific chapter. Furthermore, the audience can discover “behind the scenes” videos in order to engage

and provide transparent content, but also the full live stream of the

fashion show for FW 19 will be available on the site. The audience will

be able to interact and watch the show directly on the mini site. A direct link will be available under the show where the audience is able to “buy now” on to the Givenchy page and buy the collection at the

same time the fashion show is running live from Paris. This is a respond to a demand of everything proceeding with a ”quick phase” and

the young audience will be able to buy and wear the clothes instantly. The overall concept is a platform is to discover more about the mo-

dels, photographers, the creative directors perspective of the whole

“female empowerment” subject. Also the looks of the collection will be able to the audience as a live photo album with all the designs.

The mini site will mainly be promoted through the Instagram of Gi-

venchy in order to capture the young audience where every post up to the campaign will be tagged #givenchyexposed in order to create

expectations about something new and upcoming. When the page is available, which is when the editorial is launched in September 2019 the link will be put in Givenchy’s Instagram and promoted through stories, ads and posts. Moreover, a button will appear on the Givenchy page that directly leads you to the specific Givenchy exposed site. It is desired that the mini site should be updated with content on the sub-

ject and also quotes, videos and more that is inspirational so it becomes a platform the young audience turn to get their insights about Givenchy.


This is the front page with the menu down and all the categories on the page.

On the front page only a small description of the post will appear and then a

�read more� button that leads you to the page where you can read the full post.

52


53


54


55


56


57


58


59


Links Website: https://givenchyexposed.wordpress.com/ Issuu:

Yves Saint Laurent, 2013 Julia Nobis shot by Hedi Slimane

60


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[Accessed 15th Dec. 2017]

Saint Laurent (2016) #YSl04 by Anthony Vaccarello [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsf4_6UP_fw [Accessed 4 th jan. 2018] The Fashionisto (2011) Jonathan Marques & Rob Evans by Mert & Marcus for Givenchy Fall 2011 Campaign [online] Available at: https://www.thefashionisto.com/jonathan-marquez-rob-evans-by-mertmarcus-for-givenchy-fall-2011-campaign/ [Accessed 21st jan. 2018] Testino, M (2015) Making of Dolce & Gabbana Mario Testino [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8Ig0fD_AWQ [Accessed 17th jan. 2018]

Vogue (2017) Alexander Mcqueen Pre fall 2017[online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/alexander-mcqueen [Accessed 14 th jan. 2018]

Wilkinson, I (2017) 10 Things to know about Riccardo Tiscis reign at Givenchy[online] Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/02/t-magazine/fashion/riccardo-tisci-givenchy-quit-highlights. html [Accessed 28th Dec. 2017] WWD (2016) Givenchy, A design evolution: From Hubert de Givenchy to Riccardo Tisci.[online] Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gallery/givenchy-a-design-evolution-from-hubert-de-givenchy-to-riccardo-tisci-10845188/#!15/givenchy-16 [Accessed 20th Dec. 2017] WWD (2017) The Saint Laurent Women´s Summer 17 Campaign [online] Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/gallery/saint-laurent-womens-summer-17-campaign-10748248/ [Accessed 4th jan. 2018]

Your Tango (2016) 50 Powerful quotes [online] Available at: https://www.yourtango.com/2016296904/50-strong-women-quotes-prove-you-dont-need-man [Accessed 17th jan. 2018]

YSL (2012) Christopher Owens [online] Available at: https://www.ysl.com/wx/shop-product/unisex/christopherowensmusicproject_section [Accessed 4thw jan. 2018] Yves Saint Laurent F/W (2016) campaign . [online] Available at: https://www.fashionhouseglobal.com/sight/saint-laurent-fw-2016-2017/ 63


Annex

Givenchy Fall 2011 Campaign, photographed by Mert and Marcus

Givenchy Fall 2011 Campaign, photographed by Mert and Marcus

Givenchy editorial from Pinterest

Givenchy Sweatshirt: www.Givenchy.com

64


Givenchy SS 17 Campaign photographed by Mert & Marc

Givenchy Jeans SS 16 Campaign photographed by Luigi and Lango.

Givenchy Jeans SS 17 Campaign photographed by Luigi and Lango.

65


Givenchy Instagram 2017

66


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