Islands Magazine, 5, 2016

F I R S T R O W, F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y M O H O C AY E ; S O R I N C O L A C /A L A MY; S H U T T E R S TO C K ( 2 ) ; S E C O N D R O W, F R O M L E F T: S H U T T E R S TO C K ; C O U R T E S Y C A S S I E M I TC H E L L ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; M A R K A . J O H N S O N /A L A MY; T H I R D R O W, F R O M L E F T: S H U T T E R S TO C K (3); C O U R T E S Y S C OT T A L L E R TO N ; F O U R T H R O W, F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y T H E S M I T H S ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; M A S T E R F I L E ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; F I F T H R O W, F R O M L E F T: V L A D I - P R I VAT E - I S L A N D S . D E ; B I L D E R LO U N G E /A G E F OTO S TO C K ; P E T E R N I E S E N / A L A M Y ; L O R I B A R B E LY

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WHERE TO MOVE IN THE CARIBBEAN

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YES, YOU CAN AFFORD THESE ISLANDS

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SPECIAL EDITION

BEST FOR BEACH BUMS, FOODIES OR URBANITES

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LIFE STAGES, FROM GRADS TO RETIREES

2016 B E ST IS L A N DS TO L I V E ON 8 islands for sale. 23 island jobs. 27 expat stories. 28 new places to live.

Every year, our Best Islands to Live On feature is our most popular, and it’s not surprising. The dream of #surroundmewithwater being an everyday reality is one we all share: According to our reader survey, 80 percent of you have thought about moving to an island someday, and 75 percent have considered purchasing an island home. We listened and heavily relied on your feedback to plan this feature. Nearly 60 percent of readers are contemplating a move to the Caribbean — so we offer five top picks. You told us you’re concerned with the cost of island living — so we rounded up affordable options (plus one that’s worth the splurge, just for fun). A beach bum wants a different vibe from a city slicker — so we broke down locations by the personality type they suit best. Same goes for stages of life: Recent grads and retirees have varied needs, so we addressed each one. Looking for the ultimate escape? Make an offer on one of these private islands for sale, and plant your own flag. And finally, we get questions daily about the real-life logistics of moving. We share answers, plus on-the-ground tips from expats who made the leap. We’re confident the next 16 pages will inspire your next move. Just be sure to send us your forwarding address.

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Best Caribbean Islands

b y D AV I D L A H U TA

01 THE ABACOS, BAHAMAS

02

MARTINIQUE

➽ Spend a few days in Martinique, and you’d think you were in a tropical version of Marseille. After all, the French island is home to one of the region’s largest Francophone populations, including a burgeoning expat community from mainland France who’ve relocated for the locale’s black-sand beaches, lush rainforests and Caribbean joie de vivre. The “Paris of the Antilles” also attracts folks from the U.S. who come to teach English — expats like Hayley Hund, who moved from Leavenworth, Kansas, in 2014 to work as an English teaching assistant. “It’s important to live like the Martiniquais,” says Hund, who enjoys practicing her Creole and eating anything au Facts of Life gratin. “The lifestyle has taught me to population 13,170 leave my watch at language spoken English home and let my average rent for day develop at its a one - bedroom own pace. As the apartment $925 locals like to say, ‘Il starting home n’y a pas d’heures price $170,000 précises,’ or ‘there cost of a gallon of milk $12 are no fixed times.’”

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Q. How do I move my pets to the island?

A. The process for importing four-legged friends can be a lengthy one, so start ISLAND LIFE FAQ planning at least six months in advance. Research your destination’s quarantine policy, and make sure your pet’s vaccinations are up-todate. Find an airline or a charter flight that allows hand-carried pets, or will transport them in the plane’s cargo area. Or opt for a service that will handle all the details, such as Island Pet Movers in Hawaii. They’re familiar with the policies, ensuring a smooth transition.

F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y T H E S M I T H S ; R I C H A R D E L L I S /A L A MY; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; H E M I S /A L A MY; M I C H A E L V E N T U R A /A L A MY; P E T E R E TC H E L L S /A L A MY

➽ “The Abacos used to be the Wild West of the Caribbean,” says

Austin Smith, who moved from Florida in 1989 to a 300-acre cay dubbed Lubbers Quarters. “It was like being a pioneer, but instead of arriving in covered wagons, we sailed in boats.” As an 18-yearold captain, Smith was running dive trips for educational groups that visited the Abacos to study its ocean life and coral reefs. A few years later, he met Amy, a marine-biology student from Georgia.

“We fell in love in three days,” says Smith, who courted her to stay full time and eventually opened Lubbers’ Landing, a boutique eco-resort with three secluded cottages. “Without her, I would not have endured living on what was then a lonely rock in the sea of Abaco,” says Smith.

At the time, the island had no power or running water, which is a big difference from the Abacos of today. Chiefly because of its proximity to the U.S. — a mere one-hour flight from West Palm Beach, Florida — the islands are now a haven for Americans looking for a second home or a full relocation from the States.

Retired businessman Alan Terry moved to Tilloo Cay with his wife, Robyn, in 2015 but has been visiting since the 1960s.

“Back then, the Bahamas were dominated by boaters from the U.S. — arriving any other way was impossible,” says Terry. “Today, the expat community has grown dramatically because there are so many options to fly directly into Marsh Harbour.”

And thanks to Smith’s latest project, owning a slice of paradise just got easier. In May 2016, he launched Lubbers’ Quarters, 12 two- and three- bedroom fractional-ownership cottages available to buyers for 13 weeks each year. For $165,000, cottages include 25 percent home ownership and Facts of Life a 23-foot boat to explore the archipelago.

“It’s carefree home ownership at its best,” population 13,170 says Smith, who also developed a mobile language spoken English app called Island Compass, which lets average rent for boaters identify points of interest on a a one - bedroom smartphone without incurring costly apartment $925 starting home roaming charges. “We’re building our price $150,000 resort by giving people a great deal on a cost of a gallon house,” says Smith. “It’s a win-win.” of milk $12

02

03 ST. KITTS ➽ A sunny home with a new passport to boot? In St. Kitts, it’s as easy as writing a check. The destination is one of a handful of countries that offer a citizenship-byinvestment program, in which $250,000 plus the cost of a home buys you Kittitian citizenship. Or simply join the workforce.

At Ross University — an accredited veterinary school that draws students from the U.S. and Canada — faculty positions are often available. Opportunities can also be found in construction, engineering and real estate, plus hospitality jobs at new hotels. “Several resorts are scheduled to open in the next few years,” Facts of Life says Derek Wales, a Massachusetts native population 40,000 who followed his language spoken English girlfriend to St. Kitts average rent for in 2014 when she a one - bedroom apartment $1,025 decided to attend Ross starting home University, “so now is price $350,000 a great time to send in cost of a gallon of milk $11.50 your résumé.”

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04 VIRGIN GORDA, BVI ➽ “I love watching visitors react to our

WHY I STAYED IN ...

version of reality,” says Cassie Mitchell, who moved to Virgin Gorda from Royal Oak, Michigan, in 2012 to pursue a career in guest services. “It reaffirms why I’m here in the first place.” Of course, the BVI reality takes many forms. For her friend Scott Allerton, a Florida native who opened Carib Kiteboarding in 2003, it’s teaching visitors the sport. “My office is the ocean,” says Allerton, who has taught more than 1,000 people on Virgin Gorda’s Eustatia Sound, ideally suited for kiteboarding thanks to its consistent side-shore breezes. On tiny Virgin Gorda, it’s smalltown living at its sunniest: Grocery runs require boats, clocks Facts of Life give way to island time, and virtually population 29,151 everyone knows your language spoken English name. “All of us expats average rent for share three traits that a one - bedroom apartment $1,200 allow us to survive starting home here,” says Mitchell. price $275,000 “Kindness, patience cost of a gallon of milk $10.55 and optimism.”

➽ “It was the perfect time to try something unorthodox — our two kids weren’t settled in a school routine, and I was leaving my position at work. My husband, Kyle, and I lived in New York, but we wanted a healthier, more nurturing and less stressful life with a warmer climate. We also needed nonstop flights to New York because he often travels back for work.

“We fell in love with Barbados immediately.

We watch amazing tangerine sunsets from our house on the west coast, explore manmade coral statues on Batts Rock Beach and swim in the secluded Animal Flower Cave after enjoying rotis and rum punch at its oceanfront restaurant.

What’s not to love?

“The kids start school in September, and we just signed another two-year lease. Why? Because our boys are exploring nature, learning about the ocean and the importance of being outdoors — and they’re doing it all in shorts and flip-flops.

We eat better. We’re living healthier, more fulfilling lives. We really couldn’t ask for more.”

— m arya m taylor , as told to david l ahuta

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C O U R T E S Y M A R YA M TAY LO R ( 6 ) ; O P P O S I T E , S H U T T E R S TO C K ( 3 )

BARBADOS

05 GRAND CAYMAN ➽ When Jennifer Smith visited Grand Cayman on

a Caribbean cruise in 2008, she never imagined she’d Facts of Life be living there with her husband two years later. “We realized Grand Cayman was very different from the population 60,413 other islands,” says Smith, who works as a controller language spoken English for a real-estate developer and writes a blog called average rent for Offshore CPA, which offers tips for relocating expats. a one - bedroom “We immediately fell in love with it.” So on their return apartment $874 starting home to New Jersey, the pair researched the local job market price $150,000 and landed positions at two accounting firms — Grand cost of a gallon Cayman is home to one of the world’s largest banking of milk $6.51 jurisdictions, with plenty of opportunities for financeminded expats. Now, six years into their island experiment, the pair has doubled down by opening an escape-room business, Locked Inn, aimed at both tourists and locals. “It helped us plug into the community,” says Smith, “which is good, because we see Grand Cayman as our long-term home.”

But don’t go buying a one-way ticket just yet. Anyone who wants to move there must have a valid work permit before he or she arrives, so it’s important to solidify employment before taking the plunge. Fortunately for those looking for a career move, there are many options beyond banking. New Yorker Chantelle Cooper moved to Grand Cayman in September 2009 after accepting a job as a yoga instructor. “I love being outside all year long, and my feet are happy to never wear socks,” says Cooper, who recommends reading the Cayman New Resident guide when relocating and engaging in Caymanian customs, like weaving purses from the silver thatch palm. And while the length of their work permits gov“Respect and courtesy are the foundations erns most expats’ time — a minimum of two years in TIPS of Cayman culture. Always say ‘please’ most cases — some Americans have the chance to FROM AN stay permanently. Wisconsinite Kim Kadiyala met and ‘thank you’ in common conversation, EXPAT and never walk into a room or down the street her Caymanian husband in Chicago, moved near his without saying ‘good morning,’ ‘good afternoon’ family in Grand Cayman and now spends weekends at or ‘good evening.’ Elders appreciate being places like Starfish Point, a quiet beach on the island’s addressed as ‘miss’ or ‘mister,’ and a smile northern shore. Says Kadiyala, “I don’t think I’ll ever says a thousand words.” — jennifer smith live in another place as beautiful as this.”

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Best Affordable Islands

by S A R A H S E KU L A

08 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC ➽ Matt Bokor immediately fell in love with the

06 BORACAY, PHILIPPINES

ISLAND LIFE FAQ

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Q. How do I move all of my belongings to an island?

A. Keep in mind that transporting furniture can be more trouble than it’s worth. Consider buying cheap or used items once you’ve settled, or rent your current place furnished. Accredited moving companies, like Blue Ocean Transport and International Sea & Air, will ship your possessions; just be sure they assess in person how much you’re toting before they provide an estimate.

PHUKET, THAILAND

F R O M L E F T: T R AV N I KO V S T U D I O /A G E F OTO S TO C K ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; E K A PAT S U WA N M A N E E /A L A MY; J O N W H I T T L E ; S H U T T E R S TO C K

➽ Though Boracay is tiny, it has nine beaches, 30-plus nightlife spots and 27 dive sites. About an hour flight from Manila, it attracts fun-loving expats like Paul Fournier, who moved there in 2012.

“I pay $296 per month for a studio apartment, including cleaning service, in the center of Boracay,” he says. “White Beach and Bulabog Beach are just a fiveminute walk. I eat out daily because the food is so cheap. Beer in the beachfront bars averages out to $1.30 — the cheapest Facts of Life is only 84 cents.”

But one major population 20,000 drawback is medilanguages spoken English, cal expenses. “The Visayan, Tagalog healthcare quality currency on Boracay is not Philippine peso average year great,” says Fournier. round temp 84˚F “To find proper mediaverage rent for cal care, you have a one - bedroom to leave the island apartment $400 starting home — usually hopping a price $100,000 one-hour flight to a cost of a gallon of milk $7 major city.”

➽ With jungle-topped mountains, high-end dining, championship golf courses and internationally famous beaches, Phuket is an ideal setting for many foreigners from around the globe. As the largest island in Thailand, it has just about everything you need. Top-tier medical care is easy to find and, better yet, reasonably priced. You’ll be close to an international airport, which means you won’t have to fly out of Bangkok (a major plus). There are plenty of international schools, and grocery stores are stocked with imported goods. Whether you rent or buy, it’s still extremely affordable. Keep in mind, however, that foreigners cannot own land in their name, but they may purchase a condo or home and lease the land.

Facts of Life population

Dominican Republic, the second-largest nation in the Caribbean, for its cozy corner bars, rustic inns and to-die-for cook shacks. For him, what’s even better are the outgoing locals. “Dominicans are gregarious, welcoming and friendly,” says Bokor, who moved to the island from Miami.

“They’ll have you dancing the merengue in no time. Resistance is futile, so it’s best to just give in and go with the flow.”

The affordability of the island was appealing too. “We have sticker shock every year returning to Florida for our family reunion,” he says. “A pound of green peppers at the supermarket in Miami is about $4, compared with $1.20 here. Per pound, tomatoes are about 30 cents, and carrots are 25 cents. At the fishermen’s market in Las Terrenas, we bought 7 pounds of seafood for $40.”

Domestic help is also inexpensive. “It’s about $55 per week for daily service,” he says. “I was paying a housekeeper in Miami that much for one day.

“We don’t have a car or especially need one,” he adds. “Taxis are cheap. We get most anywhere in town for around $5 or less.”

There are a few downsides: traffic, power outages and Facts of Life crime. (Bokor points out that there is a heavy police prespopulation ence.) In the end, though, the advantages win out. “There’s 10.4 million something here for everyone,” Bokor says. “We live in Santo language spoken Spanish Domingo, which, beyond its 500-plus years of history, has a currency lot of cultural activities. Every Sunday, there’s a free concert Dominican peso on the cobblestone streets of the Colonial Zone, a UNESCO average year round temp 80˚F World Heritage Site. Once a quarter, all the museums in average rent for Santo Domingo offer free admission.” a one - bedroom Bokor’s favorite thing of all is that convenience stores apartment $500 starting home deliver. “Need eggs and orange juice first thing in the mornprice $155,000 ing?” he says. “Just call. Run out of beer midway through the cost of a gallon big game? They’ll bring it right to your door.” of milk $4

08

620,000 languages

spoken Thai, English currency

Baht average year - round 84˚F average rent for a one - bedroom apartment $510 starting home price $168,000 cost of a gallon of milk $6 temp

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WORTH THE SPLURGE!

WHY I LEFT ...

MOOREA, TAHITI

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09 ROATAN, HONDURAS ➽ Roatan, off the east coast of Honduras, is a hodgepodge of

small communities with a large expat population. Nearly 34 miles long and 5 miles wide, it’s the most developed of the Bay Islands. A major draw for water lovers is the Mesoamerican Reef, the second-largest barrier-reef system in the world.

Pristine plots of land, untouched and exactly the way nature intended them to be, are still available for purchase. Deb Crofutt, who moved to the island in 2013, can attest to that.

“You can buy land or an already built home for less than in the U.S.,” she says. “We own a 2,100-square-foot home on a quarteracre of land, and our property taxes are about $130 a year.”

If you opt to rent, it’s possible to find a nice place for $600 per month, but keep in mind that electricity is expensive and blackouts are common. Groceries and dining out can also be pricey. “We’re able to buy Costco-brand paper towels, garbage bags and dog food, but they’re double the price here,” she says.

On the other hand, going to the doctor is inexpensive. “I recently saw a pulmonologist from the U.S. and got a month’s worth of inhalers for $5.”

“Roatan is large enough to have conveniences and luxuries, such as dentists, yoga studios and high-end restaurants,” says Facts of Life Rika Purdy, an expat from Vancouver. “But population 80,000 it’s still small enough that you get to know languages spoken your entire community and enjoy a slower Spanish, Bay Islands pace of life. And due to the low minimum Creole, English currency Honduran wage, which is about $15 per day, you can Lempira, but USD find quality housekeeping, childcare, cooks is widely accepted or home security for an affordable price.” average year round temp 80˚F For Crofutt, the best part is that she has average rent for transformed into a different person from a one - bedroom apartment $500 who she was in the U.S. “I feel like my move starting home here was for the right reason. It didn’t take price $100,000 me long to figure out my purpose on this cost of a gallon of milk $2 island; I have a much more fulfilling life now.”

TIPS FROM AN EXPAT

“It’s important to remember that tourism is still relatively new on Roatan, introduced within the last 20 years.

Speaking Spanish will be helpful for getting by in daily life. Start learning the basics now.”

— rika purdy

F R O M L E F T: S H U T T E R S TO C K ; J .W. A L K E R /A G E F OTO S TO C K ; S H U T T E R S TO C K (2)

ST. THOMAS

➽ “The financial collapse of 2008 led to the demise of my charter business in Mexico.

When tourism ceased, I needed a new spot and chose St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

“I arrived to smiling faces and a free rum tasting at the airport. I rented a room through Craigslist and bought an SUV. It wasn’t my first time living on an island, but it proved to be a unique experience.

I spent five years there before making the difficult decision to leave.

“Ultimately, the mosquitoes got to me. I had the daily option of itchy inflammation or wearing a shimmering sheen of DEET. Inept infrastructure led to many flat tires. One time, a truck full of coconuts spilled its cargo, stopping traffic for hours. (Seriously.)

“I eventually lost the rose-colored glasses.

Some days, the entire island would simply run out of lemons. That might affect margarita production, but a day not being handed lemons can be a blessing indeed.

Paradise dwells in the perspective — the key to thriving is managing your expectations.”

— Ryan Jannenga

➽ Imagine living in Yosemite Valley without the crowds.

“That pretty much sums up Moorea,” says Michael Poole, who relocated in 1987.

He also lauds the affable community, interesting mix of cultures and incredibly good food, plus plenty of holidays and celebrations.

“Life here is certainly enjoyed,” Poole says. “However, it’s not very easy to move here. It’s expensive, and there isn’t a rich expat culture. People want to live here because it reflects and fulfills their vision of a tropical paradise.”

“It’s true that things like food and cars are very costly,” says Laurel Samuela, an expat from California. “But we don’t have property taxes, and healthcare is very inexpensive. Plus, our lagoon is full of fish, and our garden is packed with mangoes, avocados and passion fruit.”

Facts of Life 16,191 French, Tahitian, English currency French Polynesian franc average year - round temp 79˚F average rent for a one bedroom apartment $723 starting home price $350,000 cost of a gallon of milk $4.51 population

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YOUR OWN PRIVATE ISLAND

Want to purchase a slice of personal paradise? These eight islands are for sale now. — Brooke Morton

ISLA PALOMA, PANAMA A S K I N G P R I C E : $360,000

Nearly everyone sailing south of Bocas del Toro, Panama, has spied Isla Paloma, a threequarter-acre spit of land along the main channel. Keep your own yacht docked there, or welcome passing captains for cocktail hour. In addition to deepwater access, Paloma has two man-made, whitesand beaches. The 5,200-watt solar-panel system powers the home’s washer and dryer, TV and ice machine. Pineapples, coconuts, bananas, almonds and cashews all grow on island, keeping you supplied with a bounty of snacks. Should you

need anything further, such as coffee, it’s a five-minute boat ride to the nearby bodega.

But because the property is sold with all furnishings and appliances, seller Rick Frazier says, “If someone just brought a handful of groceries, they’d be ready to live here.” ➽ bestbocasrealestate.com

in season 14. Contestants enjoyed what you’ll also treasure: a wide arc of beach with sand flats on one coast, and deep waters off the other. ➽ vladi-private-islands.de

ELIZABETH ISLAND, AUSTRALIA A S K I N G P R I C E : $5 M I L L I O N

SAUSAU ISLAND, FIJI A S K I N G P R I C E : $800,000

Technically, you’d be leasing this 6.71-acre gem off the coast of Fiji’s second-largest island, Vanua Levu — that is, unless you purchase along with a local resident, say, a Fijian business partner or spouse.

What you get is a wild, undeveloped island with elevation.

Any home you build gains a view, as well as protection from high waves. This site will look familiar to fans of the TV show Survivor, when it was dubbed Exile Island

Until a buyer scoops up this gem, just 8 miles from the world’s second-largest barrier reef, anyone is welcome. Visitors venture via kayak or skiff from the nearby town of Placencia to enjoy the white-sand beaches, which ring nearly 80 percent of the island. Most usually only stay for the day to picnic, although kayakers often spend the night camping, overseen by the island’s caretaker. There’s no need to call ahead to make a reservation — especially as there is no solar, generator or wind-turbine power yet to make that possible. Just drop in. ➽ belizeproperty.com 64 islands

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C O U R T E S Y M O H O C AY E ( 2 ) ; O P P O S I T E : C O U R T E S Y V L A D I - P R I VAT E - I S L A N D S . D E ( 6 )

MOHO CAY E, BELIZE ASKING PRICE: $4.25 MILLION

This 65-acre swath of land off Australia’s southwest corner is available to rent, or purchase as a private residence or resort.

In addition to easy access thanks to a 30-minute car ferry from Melbourne, the threebedroom residence is turnkey: The washer and dryer, kitchen appliances and TV are set up already, powered by wind and sun and supported by a backup generator. Otherwise, aside from the jetty, the island is little more than a nature preserve with grassy fields, mud flats and a beach, ideal for bird-watching, fishing, exploring or lazing in hammocks strung along the home’s porch, which overlooks nearby French Island. ➽ elizabethisland.com.au

HAAPITI RAHI, FRENCH POLYNESIA ASKING PRICE: $5.85 M I L L I O N

Nestled inside Bora Bora’s lagoon, two-acre Haapiti Rahi is just minutes by boat from the bigger island’s airport. Yet when you look from its western shore, you see only the blues of the South Pacific. Turn east to take in the beauty of Bora Bora and its two sheer spires, Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia. On

BUCK ISLAND, BV I

ASKING PRICE: $35 MILLION

The estate atop the summit of Buck Island is more like a village than a villa: A collection of stonework sanctuaries clustered around a pool overlook Ginger Island, Norman Island and few other British Virgin isles. Find the 43-acre retreat off the southern coast of Tortola: Technically, you could walk across the sand spit connecting what is also part of the included property, but it’s much more posh to boat. It’s hard to pinpoint the choicest selling feature, be it the master bedroom overlooking Sir Francis Drake Channel or the protected white-sand beach that’s exclusively yours. For sale through Vladi Private Islands. ➽ vladi-private-islands.de island, hibiscus gardens and palm trees surround the two homes. The two-bedroom main house encourages outdoor living with an open-air kitchen, ample decking and a thatchroof dining area. Comfortable as the home is, it’s the whitesand beach and shallow surf where you’ll want to luxuriate, tasked with nothing more than studying the scenery. ➽ vladi-private-islands.de

SADDLEBACK CAY, BAHAMAS ASKING PRICE: $11.8 M I L L I O N

Hill as neighbors, all of whom may have chosen the Bahamas for its no-capital-gains-tax policy. This isle, a sprawling 47 acres, comes with a deepwater harbor on its Atlantic Ocean side, plus seven beaches leading to the Exumas’ renowned pale turquoise waters. Reach it via a 30-minute flight from Miami, and, thanks to the location at the northern tip of Norman Cay, you’ll have easy access to the latter’s 5,000-foot airstrip. ➽ sirbahamas.com

BALLAST KEY, FLORIDA ASKING PRICE:

Settle on Saddleback, one of the Exuma Cays, and count Johnny Depp, Nicolas Cage and Faith

$15.8 M I L L I O N

Leave it up to the buyer to

decide which is the bigger brag: that the 26-acre island is the southernmost inhabited island in the United States, or that the property has hosted the likes of Truman Capote, Leonard Bernstein, Gloria Estefan and the Bee Gees. Reach it in 10 minutes by helicopter from Key West, or in 25 by motoring south by boat. On arrival, you will find what is perhaps the most luxurious conch house in existence, optimally positioned for sunrise and sunset views. As for how many guests can take part in your privateisland fantasy, you’ll have the main home’s five bedrooms, plus three more in the guesthouse — the more the merrier. ➽ engelvoelkers.com

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Best Island for Your Personality

by B RO O K E MO RTO N

11 MAUI

13 SICILY

➽ Find your Maui tribe, and you’ll find your Maui beach.

very baroque, and its desserts are too — in fact, there’s flair and exuberance to all the island’s food,” says Jann Huizenga. She and her husband, Kim Crowley, spend half the year in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and the rest in a Sicilian town called Ragusa Ibla, population 3,000.

When asked to share a favorite food memory, Huizenga pauses. In spring, the thing to do is join friends on hillsides, foraging for wild asparagus, fennel, capers and borage, a spinachlike green. The resulting bounty is cooked with pasta.

If you don’t have friends to scrounge with, try the restaurant I Bianchi, which is managed by a two-star Michelin chef and is known for its pastries and gelatos.

Caffe Sicilia in the village of Noto is another H u i z e n g a m u s t - t r y, Facts of Life namely for its almond granita and its take on a population 5 million language Sicilian summer breakspoken Italian fast: gelato tucked inside currency Euro a brioche. average year-round temp 60˚F “It’s a great big thing,” average rent for she says, and as she dea one-bedroom scribes the textures and apartment $400 starting home flavor, it seems some of price $170,000 the island’s exuberance cost of milk has rubbed off. $1.37 per liter

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➽ “Sicily’s architecture is

12

HONG KONG

TIPS FROM AN EXPAT

“Living on Maui isn’t as expensive as you might think — if you start adopting new practices. I allow the breeze to cool my home, so I don’t have to pay for air conditioning. On the mainland, it’s easy to spend too much money shopping in order to keep up with the latest trends, but there aren’t any malls on the island. Plus, food can cost less because a lot of produce grows here, and people are more than willing to share.” — sylvia whelchel

F R O M L E F T: S H U T T E R S TO C K ; M A S T E R F I L E ; S H U T T E R S TO C K (2); M AT T H E W G R A N T/ A L A MY; U R O S Z U N I C /A L A MY

Mothers with little ones gather at, appropriately enough, Baby Beach near Lahaina on the island’s northwest tip. Retirees: Wailea. Windsurfers — an international crowd, drawing from a dozen countries — meet for sessions at Kanaha Beach Park, near the airport. Those preferring drum circles find each other on the North Shore’s Baldwin Beach Park.

BEACH Find Sylvia Whelchel, an Ayurveda practitioner from BUM Oregon, with her people — women who shred — every morning at 6:30 at Ho‘okipa Beach.

“Even if the waves aren’t good, we still paddle out,” she says. “Only if it’s really bad will we go for a walk instead. But we show up every morning. It’s our version of hitting the gym.”

Surfing is just one way Whelchel lets Maui shape her lifestyle.

Surrendering to the island’s way of life is your best chance to find happiness. “It’s really common to see people move here, thinking their lives will be better,” she says. “But if they don’t change themselves, they’ll be in the same rut as they were before, working too much and whatnot.”

Whelchel calls it letting go of the “mainland vibe.” She says, “Here, you’re admired for surfing big waves or for owning a truck that can carry all your sports equipment.” She remembers a transplanted New Yorker who shipped her BMW, but on Maui, the car carries no cache. “People see that and think, ‘Oh, a mainland person.’”

Instead, the island lifestyle isn’t about buying or owning possessions.

It’s about something else entirely — a sense of community. For example, when her banana trees are in bloom, Whelchel shares the abundance with her neighbors and friends.

When a recent transplant from Colorado, disheartened by her unsucFacts of Life cessful employment search, found the sunrise group, Whelchel offered this: population “Really enjoy what Maui has to offer — 160,000 language spoken and look where we are, surfing this beauEnglish tiful ocean. Something will come. Some currency USD kind of magic always happens.” average year round temp 75˚F A few weeks later, Whelchel saw the average rent for woman again, who thanked her for the a one - bedroom apartment $1,400 kind words. She’d found work as a pristarting home vate chef and was relieved. She could price $450,000 stay, and, just maybe, she’d already cost of a gallon of milk $9.59 found her tribe.

FOODIE

➽ “Hong Kong is the densest place I have ever experienced,” says Laurie Goldberg, a craft-beer importer who jets often to New York and Tokyo.

With Hong Kong’s huge population comes perks. For one: cheap cabs. Thirty minutes and the equivalent of $20 U.S. buys transit to the white-sand beaches and lush hiking trails of Tai Long Wan, which reminds her of Thailand.

As for city life, Goldberg — who has called Los Angeles and Hawaii home — found the transition seamless, URBAN thanks in large part to an expat community numbering 1 million.

“It was similar to moving to a city in the U.S. — everyone speaks English — but it’s much easier to meet new people,” she says. She adds that the transient nature of Hong Kong’s expat scene makes it much more welcoming.

After arriving in 2011 with her Facts of Life husband, Adam, his law-school chum introduced them to everyone he population 7.19 million languages spoken knew. Instantly, they had community.

Cantonese, English Nights out progressed from listening currency USD to a Journey cover band at the bar average year - round temp 72˚F Insomnia to midnight foot massages, average rent for a one a uniquely Hong Kong tradition — all bedroom apartment $3,200 fueled by a craft-beer selection as starting home price $675,000 cost of a gallon of milk $11.34 international as the crowd enjoying it.

13

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LIFE HERE

BITLO’16

14 AMBERGRIS CAYE

15 COOLUM BEACH, AUSTRALIA ➽ A variety of factors draw health-

Q. How do I find medical care?

A. The best resource for doctors abroad is the U.S. Embassy’s website, where you’ll find lists of healthcare professionals in each country. Contact your insurance company to see if your policy applies overseas — Medicare and Medicaid do not.

Additionally, foreign hospitals might require a cash payment before providing services.

ISLAND LIFE FAQ

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F R O M L E F T: M A S T E R F I L E ; S H U T T E R S TO C K ; O P P O S I T E , F R O M TO P : KC H U N T E R /A L A MY; A G E F OTO S TO C K

➽ On Ambergris Caye, morning rush hour is a dozen bikes

wheeling over the bridge to the main town of San Pedro. An expat’s grocery list can take weeks for the store to stock. The rules are so relaxed, you can bring your dog into the island’s only movie theater — just don’t expect the picture to start on time.

So it is for Kirsten Miglio, who, along with her husband, Dale “Milio” Miglio, owns Ak’bol Yoga Retreat and Eco Resort, 2 miles south of San Pedro. They began escaping Chicago, one month at a time, until they committed to full-time life in 1993. Back then, the one road cutting lengthwise across the island saw just three golf carts, the other main means of transport. Now, Miglio SMALL struggles to estimate how many carts rumble TOWN along the dirt roads.

Around town, everyone is familiar with the couple.

“People remember faces; names are less important,” Miglio says. Rarely is she addressed as Kirsten. “They say, ‘I see you’ and make eye contact — that’s how everyone acknowledges everyone. Or they call me ‘Miss Yoga’ or ‘Yoga Queen.’”

The moniker acknowledges her other passion: At Ak’bol, she teaches yoga and hosts yoga retreats. It also serves as a point of connection on island.

“There are little pockets of communities, like the French community, the yoga community, the divers, the fly-fishermen, the sailors,” she says, adding that most of the smaller groups gather often for happy hour, dinner or whatever it is that brings them together. “But we also all work together.”

Such as when a friend of a friend opens a new restaurant or performs guitar at an in-town bar — the micro-communities rally in support.

Otherwise, life on Ambergris is quiet.

Facts of Life Slow. “The days really stretch here,” she says. “Time doesn’t feel like it goes by population 13,381 quickly like it does in a big city. You get language spoken English up, go for a walk, snorkel, do some yoga at currency the end of the pier — all before noon. You Belize dollar can get a lot in each day.” average year round temp 79˚F Thanks, perhaps, to the commute average rent for to town that feels nothing like time lost. a one - bedroom Rather, it’s time gained — giving residents apartment $900 starting home the chance to admire doves, red-footed price $200,000 boobies and iguanas. It’s certainly somecost of milk $2.76 thing few would ever want to rush. for a quart-size box

HEALTH FIEND

BOAT CR E W

BEST ISLAND JOBS

If you can steer — and better yet, dock — a boat, you can find work in the day-sailing profession. With a captain’s license and a vessel, you’re in business.

Or, if you have even slight experience, a captain might hire you if you enjoy chatting with guests.

minded individuals to the Sunshine Coast.

For some, it’s the benefits of living near the ocean. This relaxed lifestyle was what Jamie Schwear had always dreamed of, especially in landlocked Arizona. In 2015, she arrived in the town of Coolum Beach, 90 minutes north of Brisbane. “I never found a place like this in the U.S. that I could afford,” says Schwear, who now lives across the street from the Coral Sea. It’s a popular spot for the active set and a haven for surfers. Weekends are spent outdoors: strolling the Coolum boardwalk, where whales can be spotted June through November, and hiking in Mount Coolum National Park, named for its 680-foot peak.

Perhaps the best part is Facts of Life how uncrowded paradise is. “The whole population of population 8,000 language spoken Australia is less than the state English of Texas,” she says. For guarcurrency anteed solitude, she heads Australian dollar north to Noosa National average year round temp 80˚F Park. “We have miles and average rent for miles of coastline where you a one - bedroom apartment $900 can walk the beach and be starting home the only one, which is amazprice $215,000 ing. You become a part of wild, cost of a gallon of milk $4.24 unspoiled nature.”

BA RT E N DE R

HOT E L STA F F

NA N N Y

CE O

Do you love helping people with a smile? A service job is the way to go. If you know your way around a Gran’ Ma’ neat and a Painkiller, score a spot behind the bar.

Other front-ofhouse positions like hosts and servers are also easy to nab.

As the main industry on most islands, the tourism sector is always hiring.

Beyond hourly resort employment — front desk, bellhop, concierge, housekeeping — there’s also a need for salaried positions in sales, marketing and operations.

If you love little ones, look for a nanny role.

Certification courses in CPR, water safety, infant care and child education can help you land a gig.

Responsibilities are usually limited to childcare, but housekeeping could be required.

Nothing beats being the boss.

If you’re not the type to dream up your own business idea, why not buy an existing one? Real-estate companies, such as Cozumel Living, sell a variety of established companies, from scuba shops to bedand-breakfasts.

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BITLO’16

Best Island for Your Stage of Life

by B RO O K E MO RTO N

RECENT GRAD

START A FAMILY

ST. CROIX, USVI

➽ Spend the day with the 20-something set on St. Croix, the largest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, and you might ask if you’ve stepped into an REI or Michelob Ultra commercial. Scenes cut quickly between sailing to Buck Island to swim with turtles, hiking the northwest coast to snorkel in tide pools, and dancing on a roped-off street for St. Patrick’s Day. It’s the world of Matthew Weicker, a scuba instructor who chose to make the largely undeveloped island home in July 2015.

“St. Thomas feels less like an island and more like a city with lots of vehicles, and it’s very built-up. St. Croix is quieter, with old-island charm.”

Its smaller population makes it easier to join the party, er, community. For Weicker, finding that islandstyle welcome was simple.

“Hang out in town, grab a beer and just start talking to people.”

53,000 language spoken English currency USD population

average year - round temp average rent for a one -

85˚F

$875 $130,000 cost of a gallon of milk $4.99 bedroom apartment

starting home price

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➽ Good luck finding the wild, undeveloped spaces

TIPS FROM AN EXPAT

“The best way to land a job in St. Croix is to walk into the restaurants, bars and tour companies in town and talk to who’s hiring — it’s much easier in person than over the phone.”

F R O M L E F T: I S TO C K ; S H U T T E R S TO C K (3)

Facts of Life

17 KEY LARGO, FLORIDA

— matthew weicker

that fuel a child’s sense of wonder and stave off the couch-bound boredom that author Richard Louv calls nature-deficit disorder — that is, unless you live in Key Largo, Florida. “I was raised on the water, surfing, diving, skiing and fishing — it’s what I wanted for my kids,” says Steve Powers, who, along with his wife, Cheryl, has been raising three daughters since 2008 in the Norman-Rockwell-meets-Jimmy-Buffett landscape near Mile Marker 103 on U.S. Highway 1. The couple knew they wanted to relocate to a Florida coast, and the Keys offer double the shoreline. When their oldest, Laura Jayne, now 18, was approaching middle school, they deemed it time to make a move.

“Little kids are more portable,” says Steve. “Bring their Barbie Dream House, and they’re happy. Once they hit middle school, they need community.”

Stability came via a job opportunity. Steve had always wanted to run a business, so when the local Sea Tow franchise, a marine-rescue company, became available, he took the helm. In many ways, it’s exactly what the Powers had hoped. For one, the kids — the other two are Kendra, 16, and Julie, 12 — live in the water. “It’ll be midnight, and they still have their swimsuits on,” says Steve.

“I bought an outdoor projector, and they’ll want to watch Jaws while swimming.”

In other ways, the island exceeds expectation. The Powers girls had previously attended private schools only, but since there are none in Key Largo, they had to register for public schools. “People have asked, ‘Oh my gosh, how will your kids get educated?’” says Cheryl. “But this is the 13th year that Key Largo School Facts of Life got an A rating, and Coral Shores High School received their first A this year.” As for challenges, Cheryl, who population 11,000 language describes herself as traditional, mentions there aren’t spoken English as many two-parent homes as she found in Kentucky, currency USD their home before the Keys. Otherwise, they’ve been average year round temp 80˚F only impressed with how their kids find fun. Laura Jayne average rent for recently went mudding and parachuting in their county, a one - bedroom which stretches just 1 mile wide by 116 miles long and apartment $1,000 starting home rises only three inches above sea level. Factor in the price $250,000 ocean and Gulf, and the possibilities become endless — cost of a gallon more than enough to fill any childhood. of milk $3.35

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18 OAHU ➽ “I found it quite easy if you pick the right

START A BUSINESS

market,” says Mike Davis of launching Extract Juice Bar in downtown Honolulu with wife, Stacey, in 2013. The entrepreneurial pair had a proven track record opening businesses, first with catering, followed by their first juice bar, both in Newport, California. “Find what niche isn’t exploited locally,” says Davis. And it might not be what you expect.

“People think of Hawaii as very healthy and very forwardthinking, but it’s kind of behind the rest of the country,” he says. “I thought there would be 50 juice bars, but we became the second.”

Before flying out, the couple scoured Yelp and Google to get a feel for the island’s neighborhoods. After they arrived, they spent half a day sitting outside their intended shop location, studying foot traffic. Their product skews toward an affluent clientele, so they targeted the business district, fueled by tourism and military dollars. Davis also figured it wise to open doors at 6 a.m., when the suits clock in to do business with the mainland.

So far, the welcome has been a warm one. When asked about prejudice toward Haoles, Davis, an avid surfer, says, “It definitely exists on the water.” But when it comes to business and day-to-day life, he says, “There is no hate on this island.”

As for the product, the Davises tweaked the formula from their original offering. In Newport, an $11 glass of organic greens doesn’t raise an eyebrow.

On Oahu, where a $6 lunch plate is standard, their juice had to compete. They lowered the price to $7, swapping out organic produce for conventional. “You have a captive audience Facts of Life because they’re not leaving the rock, but you still have to bring value,” he says. population But more importantly, the venture 953,207 language spoken brought added benefits to the couple’s English lives. They’re stoked that riding waves currency USD average year is now part of their everyday. round temp 77˚F Says Davis, “Two weeks ago, my average rent for fridge went down over the weekend. I a one - bedroom was closed for three days and lost all apartment $1,300 starting home my produce. But when you’re in Hawaii, price $60,000 how can you ever be mad that you’re on cost of a gallon an island?” of milk $5.49

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20 RETIRE BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA

19

COZUMEL, MEXICO

18 ISLAND LIFE FAQ

Q. How do I meet other expats?

A. Search for online forums that connect people living abroad, like internations.org and expatexchange .com. And find upcoming events by interest — from hiking to meditation to language clubs — on meetup.com.

F I R S T R O W, F R O M L E F T: E N G E L C H I N G / A L A MY; S H U T T E R S TO C K (2); S ECO N D R O W, F R O M L E F T: PA U L N I C K L E N / NGS; SHUTTERSTOCK (2); THIRD ROW, F R O M L E F T: S H U T T E R S TO C K (3); A L A MY; SHUTTERSTOCK; OPPOSITE: SHUTTERSTOCK (2)

LIFE HERE

START OVER

➽ Don’t be surprised at weight loss or lower blood pressure when starting a new life in Cozumel, Mexico. Cruiseship anchors aweigh, this 250-square-mile island settles back into slow rhythms, packaging the folksiness of a small Midwestern town with prime Caribbean beachfront.

As for health benefits, new arrivals Joni and Karan Thadani said adios to Kansas in January, and they already need smaller shorts. Credit might be due to swapping their law practice for selling island real estate.

Or to the mom-and-pop eateries dishing up their nightly dinners. “It’s amazing that the restaurants all serve fresh, handmade food,” says Joni. Their diet is now mostly seafood, Facts of Life meat and produce, yet it’s cost-effective. Barbecue population 100,000 chicken with rice and language spoken Spanish beans fetches less than $5. currency Peso For Karan, the average year - round temp 80˚F answer is much simpler: average rent for a one “Nothing is better for bedroom apartment $750 your health than seeing starting home price $104,000 cost of a gallon of milk $1.52 the ocean every day.”

➽ Basil Stetson retired in Bocas del Toro, Panama, to become a surf bum. It didn’t hurt that the exchange rate was beyond favorable — but not because he couldn’t afford a tonier location. Along with his fabric-designer wife, April Cornell, Stetson already owns on Grand Cayman.

Rather, the low costs entice young energy, courtesy of backpackers. “The place feels fresh,” says Stetson. “I don’t want to live among high-rises and lots of old people.”

He adds, “It’s a small community.” How small? On Sundays, everyone can be found at the airport, where locals aren’t catching planes but fly balls — Facts of Life the runway is the community baseball field. population 7,366 language spoken Stetson might be Spanish retired, but he still currency USD speaks in business paraverage year round temp 78˚F lance. “Those games average rent for pay dividends,” he a one - bedroom says. “Because of them, apartment $450 starting home everyone knows who I price $80,000 am — one of the few cost of a gallon gringos in the stands.” of milk $7.58