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NEW!

LEARN NEW SKILLS: HEMMING DRAPEY FABRIC SEWING BOX PLEATS IN UK SIZES IN UK 6-20 SIZES

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E , Y O U R WAY L Y T S R U O Y G SEWIN

SIMPLE

holiday

STYLISH WIDELEG TROUSERS

STYLES

YOUR 4-IN-1 PATTERN

to sew tonight!

TREND REPORT: Hot new looks to wear NOW

LUXURY FOR LESS 10 top thrifty tricks

UPCYCLED DENIM CUSHION

CANINEFRIENDLY SEWING!

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QUICK SY A E & , tricks & ideas for

tips your home & wardrobe

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SUPER-USEFUL TENT TIDY

ISSUE 11 UK £5.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk

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WELCOME

Hello

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It’s time to put this summer’s trends to the test, and this month’s free McCall’s 7542 pattern (page 14) ticks all the boxes with its five fashionable sleeve options. I love this pattern and couldn’t resist sewing it straight away in a crisp white cotton with a pretty blue motif that I picked up at one of the spring sewing shows. With easy-to-follow bust measurement guidelines and four cup sizes you can be sure of a perfect fit.

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For a quick and easy holiday make, get to grips with scuba and sew our Diamond Dress (page 48) – with just two main pieces to sew and optional pockets you can have it stitched up in no time. For a more leisurely make, try out the Wide-leg Trousers (page 26). This wardrobe classic works well all year round and a large abstract print will really show off the wide leg.

With the British summer firmly upon us it’s time to enjoy the (hopefully) nice weather! Keep your tent in order with our retro Tent Tidy (page 56), or if you’re planning to be out and about this season, sew the versatile and useful Traveller’s Tote and Backpack (page 84). As summer holiday sleepovers approach, the Duffle Bag (page 42) is a must for kids. Designed and made by nine-year-old Lucy Auden, this a great project to get started sewing with your kids – see page 44 for more tips!

As true animal lovers, the Sew Now team couldn’t resist two fun doggy-focused projects! The Dog House (page 76) is a super practical and cosy home for your pampered pet (and it's a great way of getting to grips with sewing wadding). The Dachshund Wrist Rest (page 36) will add pooch personality to your desk, and can also be used as a heat bag to ease any aches and pains.

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Add in fresh fabric, great styling tips and plenty of sewing advice and technique guides and you’ve everything you need to inspire your sewing this summer. Don’t forget to share your makes using #sewthelove on social media.

We love to see what you’re making!

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk

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SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS We’d love to hear your thoughts about Sew Now. Find and follow us on:

www.facebook.com/sewnowmag www.twitter.com/sewnowmag www.instagram.com/sewnowmag www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE OF

48 GET YOUR NEXT 3 ISSUES FOR JUST £6 Turn to page 52 for details of how to subscribe!

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42 REGULARS

FEATURES

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20

32

29

24 30

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GRAPHIC FANATIC Print designer Gail Myerscough shares her passion for retro design

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READERS’ MAKES What you’ve been sewing this month

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TEAM TALK Find out what’s on the Sew Now team’s radar

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93 94

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TUTORIALS

NEWS What’s new in sewing

SEWING START UP Fiona Hesford tells us how she got her business Sewgirl off the ground

HOT OFF THE PRESS New pattern release news from The Fold Line

TREND REPORT Holiday trends taken care of

ANGELINE MURPHY Angeline shares her thoughts on sewing kit essentials

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new friends at a sewing workshop near you www.facebook.com/sewnowmag

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PATTERN REVIEW Simona Barlow orders a cocktail crossover top!

BACK-PAGE BLOGGER We chat with Sophia of blog and website Jessalli

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SKILL BUILDER Jeanette Archer teaches us hem finishes for drapey fabric

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

COOL KIMONO Upcycle the perfect summer cover-up – we show you how

SUSTAINABLE TAILORING Learn to take in a pencil skirt waistband for the perfect fit FINISHING SCHOOL Pleat your heart out with Alison Smith’s step-by-step tutorial SEWING KNOW-HOW Basic stitches explained

MASTER YOUR MACHINE Find out what all the buttons and functions mean PROJECTS

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FREE McCALLS M7542 TOP PATTERN Hit the sleeve trend with these five fashion-focused options

www.instagram.com/sewnowmag

www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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CONTENTS

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MEET THE TEAM Editor

Deputy Editor

Bethany

Sam Stylist

Seamstress

76

Jeanette

Jo SKILL LEVEL GUIDE

Editorial Assistant

Beginner Adventurous beginner Intermediate

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Advanced

34

WIDE-LEG TROUSERS Sew this wardrobe staple for everyday wear

26

76

36

DACHSHUND WRIST REST A fun way to brighten up your working day!

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42

INSPIRATION

SLEEPOVER BAG Make this spacious bag with your kids

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TENT TIDY Keep your camping essentials to hand

IN THE DOG HOUSE Pamper your pooch with this cosy sewn home

TRAVELLER'S TOTE & BACKPACK Stylish two-in-one bag for work or play

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WEAR IT WITH Make your free pattern dress work hard with four great looks

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38 41

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DENIM ARGYLE CUSHION Donate your unwanted denim to the cushion cause RUFFLED EMPIRE PEASANT TOP Simple stash-busting project for girls

Leanne

TOP 10 UPCYCLING IDEAS Upcycling made easy

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Fabric picks from suppliers in the know MINI MAKERS Make a success of sewing with kids

WIN AND SAVE!

50 55 88

WIN a Janome DKS100 sewing machine worth £529 WIN sewing goodies and enjoy 20% off fabric at Girl Charlee 25% OFF New Look and Simplicity patterns at CraftStash

58 63 69 89

HOME STYLE Get beautiful in the bathroom

STYLE FILE The easy-wear, every-season dress SHOP IT OR SEW IT Necklines to impress JUST MY TYPE Make your mark on your projects

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SHI FT U P A GEA R

Elegant and easy to wear, the brand-new Shift Dress pattern from The Avid Seamstress fulfils all of our transitional wardrobe wants.

It features a fitted bodice, fitted sleeves and a pencil skirt, as well as short sleeves, flattering waist pleats and the option to add inner pockets. Ideal for anything from work to weddings, it’s available now for £16 for a paper pattern and £9.50 as a digital download at www.theavidseamstress.co.uk

In the bag Calling all budding bag makers! The Bag Retreat is back for round two, bringing expert tutors, plenty of socialising and creative inspiration to the South Wales valleys. From 13th – 15th October, founder and leading bag designer Samantha Hussey will be bringing two brand-new patterns for you to conquer. Along with her assistant Amanda she will guide you every step of the way, from choosing interfacing, using rivets and how to insert zips. Prices begin at £310 per person, which includes accommodation and food.

To find out more, visit www.mrs-h.com

Turn to page 55 for the chance to win a Shift Dress pattern!

WHAT’S NEW? The products, patterns and events on our radar this month

THE BIG STITCH

Turn to page 38 for more 10 great-value upcycling ideas!

The British Heart Foundation is encouraging shoppers to get sewing and upcycling to help get the nation to stop throwing clothes away and to think creatively about how they can be used. According to a survey from The Big Stitch campaign, 59% of Brits are unable to sew confidently or at all, with a third revealing that they were never taught to sew. In the UK, we spend over £2.5 billion fixing or tailoring clothes and £3 billion replacing items of clothing, which could easily be repaired. The charity is challenging shoppers to buy an item and customise it to be in with the chance of winning a night out at a West End show with fashion YouTuber Just Jodes and a friend.

Simply share your photos before 31st July on social media with #TheBigStitch. Find out more at www.bhf.org.uk

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NEWS

Cool for kids Dungarees are a style staple for any mini trendsetter, and the brand-new patterns from Two Stitches are sure to impress fussy kids and style-conscious parents alike. Frankie is a unisex pattern for babies form six months to two years, with a trouser and gathered dress version, while Freddie has been made for boys and girls ages three to nine. Freddie has a must-try pair of dungarees with a poppered inner leg and elasticated back waist, with a sweet dress version too. We recommend a brightly coloured corduroy for a great summer to autumn transitional look.

Printed patterns are available for £12.50, with PDF downloads £7.50 each from www.twostitchespatterns.com

H O M E G ROW N

GET SHIRTY Modern, with a utility feel and feminine detailing, the Matilda dress is at the top of our to-sew list. A contemporary shirtdress with a gathered waist, pleated breast pockets, A-line skirt and those allimportant roomy pockets, it can be made from light to mediumweight dress or shirting fabric such as linen, chambray, rayon or cotton, giving you plenty of options to make it your way!

Available in sizes XS-XL from www.megannielsen.com, $13.69 (approximately £10.64) for PDF pattern and $18.25 (approximately £14.19) for the printed version.

Using fresh citrus yellows and oranges and along with contemporary black, white and grey, the Home Grown fabric collection is perfect for injecting a pop of colour into your wardrobe or home décor. Use the funky cacti on a quirky little shirtdress or jazz up your living room with some fruity new cushions.

Available from 8th August at www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

Lovely in lace Sewing your own bra is a bit of a rite of passage. It can seem intimidating before you begin but, trust us, once you’ve finished your first one you will be hooked! To help get you started, we love the new Lace and the Lady bra kits from www.seweasybristol.com. Available in a rage of colours, each pack includes beautiful lace, lining, fabric, elastic trim and fasteners, so all you need is a pattern and optional underwire.

Available now for £16 and if you're local to Bristol why not pop into the shop for one of its expert bra-making workshops?

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JUNE-PART

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Every month, Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #wardrobebuilder challenge and what you’ve been making

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AC H IEVE TH E PE RF ECT FIT

Laura

une’s #wardrobebuilder theme was a big one… vests, shorts and playsuits! Back in January I was looking forward to getting into summer patterns so put quite a lot of options in (does anyone else have an enormous list of patterns that they are dying to make?) I ended up down a vest rabbit hole, making only a fraction of the patterns I wanted to.

I focused mainly on patterns by Colette and Seamwork.

My first make, a Sorbetto (free download), didn’t go brilliantly.

Luckily, I managed to get two more in and feel a little happier with my efforts! The Aurora really Aurora tank is a speedy make, and is a great stash-busting project. The pretty shoulder ties of the Gretta have also proved to be a popular feature with sewing bloggers.

Fortunately, there’s been a lot of warm weather lately, which means I’ve had a lot of opportunities to include my handmade beauties in my regular wardrobe – the #wardrobebuilder project fulfilling its goals!

As the month rolled on and I saw the awesome shorts (mainly Grainline Studio’s Maritime pattern) Mari’s SBCC that everyone else was making, I Gina shorts began to regret not making a pair myself. Mari’s Gina shorts from SBCC patterns introduced a great company catering specifically for women under 5' 4" tall. I know this is quite a niche group, but sewing your own is a very appealing option for shorter women as ready-to-wear fashions often are too long. It’s one of the reasons I took up dressmaking and love making my own clothes.

July’s theme of summer dresses is going to be fabulous - there’s been so many brilliant pattern releases recently, I can’t wait to see everyone’s versions. There’s a £20 Splendid Stitch voucher to be won too, so don’t forget to add these to the link up! To find out more about the challenge ad see the monthly themes, visit www.thepetitepassions. com. Don’t forget to share your makes online with the hashtag Win a £20 Splendid Stitch voucher! #wardrobebuilder

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Ever wanted to sketch out your own patterns but find that existing fashion templates aren’t suited to your shape?

MyBodyModel is a unique app that can create custom fashion sketching templates based on your measurements.

The idea was devised by US sewist Erica Schmitz after she realised that there were no design tools available to help her envisage how a sewing pattern or silhouette might look on her body. From 1st August, Erica is running a Kickstarter campaign to help make her dream a reality and has already started offering free PDF downloads at mybodymodelkickoff.com so that sewists can get a taster of the app before its launch.

Check out her website for more information and to help support her new made-to-measure app

GET ORGANISED Keep all your sewing supplies and tools together with the exciting new project book from Aneela Hoey. Stitched Sewing Organizers includes everything from fabric boxes to pincushions, pouches and stylish cases to carry your sewing bits and bobs or simply keep them neat, tidy and close to hand. Perfect for a quiet afternoon in the sewing room or for when you get fed up of losing your favourite snips! £22.99 from www.ctpub.com

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HOT-OFF-THE-PRESS

PATTERNS Flash your stash and make one of these hot new patterns handpicked by Kate and Rachel of The Fold Line

P LUS SIZE PATTER N

WEBSTER TOP AND DRESS Cashmerette The Webster is from Cashmerette, who specialises in plus-size patterns.

The pattern features a crossover band and V-neck at the back, but can still be worn with a bra. There are darts at the bust and the skirt is loose fitting. The hem for both the dress and top is dipped at the back. This is a simple pattern that is perfect for a beginner looking to improve their skills.

Sizes UK 12-28, in three cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H) Paper pattern £16 www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk

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Kate

Rachel PENNY SHIRTDRESS Sew Over It The Penny shirtdress from Sew Over It is a fantastic wardrobe staple and one you’ll make over and over. For a shirtdress this is a pretty simple construction – perfect if you want to improve your skills. The pattern features a sleeveless button-up bodice, elasticated waist and full skirt. There are gathers in the shoulder panel so no need for a bust dart, and the collar is flat for easy construction. There are buttons on the bodice down to the waist and the dress finishes just below the knee. We’d recommend this for a competent beginner.

Sizes UK 8-20 PDF pattern £7.50 www.sewoverit.co.uk

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NEWS KOBE DRESS AND TOP Papercut Patterns Kobe is part of the new Sakura collection from Papercut Patterns.

There are nine patterns to choose from and we love the simple lines of this design. Key features include two long pleats that overlap into a keyhole opening in the back. The dress version finishes mid calf and has slits at the side seams. The top version has a cropped front and dipped hem at the back. We’d recommend this pattern for an advanced beginner.

Sizes US 4-22 Paper pattern £15.50 www.guthrieghani.co.uk

CHARLIE CAFTAN Closet Case Patterns

Sizes XS-XXL (UK approximately 8-24) PDF pattern NZD $20 (approximately £11.27) Paper pattern NZD $30 (approximately £16.89 ) www.papercutpatterns.com

The Charlie Caftan is the latest offering from Closet Case Patterns and has a shape that would suit most body types. The pattern features a deep V neck, kimono sleeves and comes with three options to make it your own. The first version has two pleats below the bust and finishes above the knee. The other two versions come with a gathered front panel and optional waist ties. You can choose between a skirt that finishes above the knee or a full-length version.

There are also two choices for the sleeve – pick between a dramatic kimono style or, for a bit more coverage, the higher-cut version. We’d recommend this for an advanced beginner.

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ORSOLA DRESS AND SKIRT

By Hand London

Sizes UK XS-XL Paper pattern £8.95 www.remnanthouse fabric.co.uk

8381 WOMEN’S OFF-THE-SHOULDER PULLOVER DRESS OR TOP Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity The Simplicity 8381 designed by Cynthia Rowley is part of the new summer range and features the coldshoulder detail that has been all over the high street recently. It also comes with three options to really make this your own. The pattern features a partly elasticated band across the shoulders to allow for movement, and the front and back panels are gathered into this band, which provides a tie detail feature on the shoulders. You can make this either as a top or dress and there is the option to choose a sleeved version with ruffled hem. We’d recommend this for an intermediate maker.

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The Orsola Dress and Skirt are from By Hand London. The dress comes in two variations and both feature a fully lined darted bodice with a bateau neckline.

There is wrap detail at the back of the dress and a curved back neckline. For the skirt you can pick between a tulip, scalloped or straight hem. The wrap feature means that there are no fastenings, making this fairly simple to construct. The skirt comes with the wrap feature and a narrow waistband. We would recommend this pattern for an advanced beginner.

Sizes UK 6-20 PDF pattern £9 www.byhandlondon.com

The Fold Line is an online sewing community with over 10,000 members.

The site has a huge pattern database with sewing-specific search function plus wishlist and library profile features to store your favourite patterns. There is also a sewing resources section to inspire your next make and an active forum where you can chat to other sewists.

Visit www.thefoldline.com

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YOUR

FREE PATTERN

VIEW C – FRONT

VIEW C – BACK

We have widened the pleats to suit the fabric pattern

Mom jeans £15, www.primark.com

Take

FIVE This month’s pattern has so much to offer – a simple shape, easy button-back fastening, shoulder and bust darts and five sleeve options. You can improve your sewing skills with each one!

Photography RENATA STONYTE Model KATE for INDUSTRY Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD

GET THE LOOK

Turquoise Modern Twist on Gingham Turquoise, aubergine and natural white intertwine to create this soft, 150cm-wide 100% cotton cool shirting fabric

Brown sandals £25.99, www.zara.com

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£4 per metre www.fabworks.co.uk

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VIEW E – FRONT

VIEW E – BACK

S KIL LS C HEC K McCall’s M7542 3 Bust darts 3 Shoulder darts 3 Inserting sleeves 3 Sewing a facing 3 Sewing pleats 3 Sewing a circle (flounce) sleeve

Extra challenge

3 For full-on volume extend the sleeve length, cut and sew an extra pair of flounce sleeves and attach to the lengthened sleeve

White belted trousers £22.99, www.newlook.com

GET THE LOOK

Silver sliders £19.99, www.zara.com

Light blue turquoise dobby cotton voile This lovely lightweight cotton dobby with its trademark spaced cotton twist is a gorgeous soft turquoise £6.50 per metre www.stonefabrics.co.uk

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VIEW B – FRONT

Rose gold wire necklace £5.99, www.newlook.com

VIEW B – BACK

Faux-leather skirt £25.99, www.zara.com

Watch the McCall’s M7542 video for more fabric inspiration www.youtube.com/ watch?v=2O eXVw_RizA

Metallic shoes £12, www.primark.com

“The current trend for an interesting sleeve looks to continue well into the autumn, making this pattern the perfect addition to your pattern pile. With sleeve options for all occasions, you can create anything from a flamboyant flounce to a preppy pleat, making this top really stand out from the crowd. When it comes to choosing fabric, wovens will work with the cut of the pattern, crisp cotton will showcase the pleated sleeve beautifully and a fluid rayon or viscose is ideal for the flounce and petal sleeve. Soft, light fabric such a voile and lawn suit the balloon sleeve and show the volume, and your skills, at their full potential”

Sam

GET THE LOOK

Luscious orange crepe This gorgeous flowing burnt orange crepe is perfect for evening, or a touch of everyday luxury! £8.99 per metre www.dittofabrics.co.uk

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VIEW A – FRONT

VIEW A – BACK

Follow the step-by-step instructions for a perfect fitting bust

Red cross-body bag £5, www.primark.com

Jess is 5’ 7“ and a dress size 8

White spotted trousers £25.99, www.zara.com

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GET THE LOOK

Hyssop Stream rayon Cool and comfortable, this 140cm-wide drapey rayon is extremely soft to the touch and will add luxury to any garment.

Cream sling-back heels £12, www.primark.com

£12 per metre www.sewoverit.co.uk

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The world’s most innovative fabrics

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the world’s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code

lovesewing10

www.lintondirect.co.uk 18

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INSPIRATION

WEAR IT WITH...

Adding this pretty balloon-sleeve top to your wardrobe creates a variety of stylish new looks Olivier Desforges Panache beach towel £50, www.amara.com

BEACH BREAK

Tropical swimsuit £28, www.dorothyperkins.com

Floral suit trousers £45, www.missselfridge.com

Stretch denim jacket £30, www.very.com

ANNIVERSARY

Denim gem shorts £30, www.dorothyperkins.com

Ankle-tie heels £42, www.wallis.co.uk

Suedette seamed shopper £12, www.matalan.co.uk

IMPROMTU BBQ

Red coral necklace £16, www.mandco.com

Elephant earrings two pack £15, www.whitestuff.com Floral maxi skirt £22, www.dorothy perkins.com

BRUNCH WITH FRIENDS Lace-up espadrilles £14.99, www.blueinc.co.uk

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Fox bag kit £12.50, www.sewgirl.co.uk

Owl bag kit £12.50, www.sewgirl.co.uk

I N T E R V I E W

SEWING START UP We chat to Fiona Hesford about her passion for creative pursuits and why she wants to teach the whole world to sew!

Words BETHANY ARMITAGE

Sell your business to us and tell us what makes it special Sometimes I feel that I want to teach the whole world to sew! It’s such a fantastic skill to have. My ‘Make Your Mother Proud’ sewing workshops are very popular; mums come with their daughters, and even husbands and wives come along to learn together – it’s always lots of fun and people are amazed at what they’ve achieved in just one day. My sewing kits are unique, they feature hand screen-printed fabric which we produce ourselves here at our studio by the Sussex coast, so I think they are pretty special. I have a range of toys, cushions and bags; I like clean bold designs with a slightly folky feel.

What are your customers loving right now?

Currently I am selling a lot of products such as the Selfie notebooks, Cat cards

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and posters, which feature my machineembroidered designs. My Owl, Cat and Foxy bag kits are popular too. We hand screenprint the bags in house then you add the fabric, trim, buttons and beads on top – they are lots of fun. My favourite kit is the Sleepy Head Cushion kit which people love to give as presents for sewing enthusiasts.

When did you start sewing?

I started sewing as a young child, making clothes for my dolls and patchwork from scraps of Laura Ashley fabric that my mum had left over. She was very fashion conscious and my grandmother was very good technically, I suppose some of it must have rubbed off on me! I went on to complete a degree in textile design at Brighton University in the 80s where I created my own fabric to make into a range of clothing, which was snapped up by American department stores, it was an exciting time.

Have you ever had any sewing disasters?

I can’t remember many sewing disasters, although I did make a hideous pair of bright green trousers for a boyfriend years ago!

The relationship didn’t last much longer after that, and I haven’t made a pair since!

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FEATURE A-line skirt class at Eclectic Maker, Worthing

Pirate cushion kit £15, www.sewgirl.co.uk

What’s the best tip you could give to a beginner?

My advice to beginners is to love what you do – if you enjoy the process it will see you through the difficult times. I found a variety of outlets for my skills, balancing teaching with selling things and writing so I’m always doing something different and meeting people. It can be quite solitary working for yourself so try to get out there and meet your customers; it’s a way to build confidence.

Also, keep a sketchbook on the go at all times for ideas.

Your styles show you clearly love vintage.

Where did the influence come from?

I love retro designs from the 70s and this has to originate from my childhood I suppose. Retro flowers and animal motifs pop up all the time in my work. My mother was fan of Biba designs and I spent much of my teenage years going to Kensington High Street and Kings Road, which was a big influence on me.

“IT CAN BE QUITE SOLITARY WORKING FOR YOURSELF SO TRY TO GET OUT THERE AND MEET YOUR CUSTOMERS“ How have you expanded your business?

I started off holding workshops from home and advertised by putting flyers in local venues. After gaining confidence I approached local sewing outlets that started stocking my sewing kits and patterns which was great. I built a gorgeous studio in my garden where I love to work, it makes a big difference having somewhere inspiring to work. The

Lavender Cottage cushion kit with little folk £15, www.sewgirl.co.uk

Love Fiona’s vintage style? Check out her Retro kitty project in issue 8. Available now from www.moremags.com and www.craftstash.co.uk

biggest expansion recently is creating the new Nice Craft Collective fair, where I am showing my stuff alongside 20 other designer/makers. I hope to develop it into something much bigger in time.

What are the best and most challenging things about running your own business?

I think the most challenging thing is juggling lots of projects at one time and meeting tight deadlines. When you work from home it’s important to take time out otherwise you never really switch off. I timetable coffee/ lunch meetings with friends who work in a similar way to me, so we can talk shop and share news and ideas.

Describe a typical day in your life?

I’m lucky to live near the south coast in Worthing, so a typical early morning will find me walking or cycling along the beach and thinking about the day ahead. I usually start working about 9.30am on the computer with a strong coffee, organising workshops, projects or packing off orders, not creative stuff

generally. In the afternoon, when the light is better, I will work on sewing projects or my sewing kits or perhaps prepare for a workshop. Every day is different. Some evenings and weekends I’ll be holding workshops for beginners and improvers at one of my venues.

Finally, what should we expect to see from you this year?

This year, expect to see more machineembroidered designs, which I’m turning into digital prints and stationery. I’m hoping the Nice Craft Collective will grow into a bigger venture of craft fairs, products and workshops over time. It’s exciting and I can’t wait to see how it develops.

Find out more about Fiona and Sewgirl at www.sewgirl.co.uk

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ilder Skill bu

HEMMING

lightweight FABRIC

Jeanette, our in-house seamstress, shares her hints and tips for a perfect finish when hemming lightweight fabric

NEED-TO-KNOW FACTS

What is the technique?

Narrow and rolled hems on the sewing machine.

What can it be used for?

To create a neat and narrow hem on lightweight garments.

What type of fabric does this technique work with?

Lightweight fabric such as crepe, cotton lawn, chiffon and organza.

Which foot should you use?

To sew a narrow hem, use your regular machine foot. To sew a rolled hem, use a rolled hem foot.

Which needle should you use?

You should use a fine needle sized between 60/8 and 70/10, practise on some scrap fabric to see which works best. Sometimes a ballpoint needle can help because it does not pierce the fine fibres and stops pulling.

What are the common problems?

Handling floaty fabric.

Do you need to make adjustments to your machine settings?

Not usually.

Any tricks or tips that we need to know?

Basting or tacking stitches are really helpful to use in guiding your narrow hem and can be removed afterwards.

Read your sewing machine manual, it will explain clearly how to use the rolled hem foot for your particular machine!

22

NARROW HEM:

millimetres away from the hem line.

Use the markings on your presser foot as a guide.

1

Begin by sewing a tacking stitch on what will be the actual hemline.

Here we have sewn 1.5cm from the edge. (See Pic A.)

4

Using a pressing cloth, press the hem in place using the tacking stitch as a guide. (See Pic B.)

Trim close to this second row of tacking stitches. (See Pic C.) Turn hem again the width of the hem made so far. Press. Switch your machine settings to top stitch length (3) and from the right side, again using the markings on your presser foot as a guide, stitch the hem in place.

3

5

2

Jeanette

Sew another row of tacking stitches to hold this in place, just a few

A

B

C

D

Remove the tacking stitches and press. (See Pic D.)

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TUTORIAL

MAKE YOUR OWN P R E S S I NG C LOT H Pressing cloths are simple to make and give a professional finish to your garments. Follow the tutorial at www.didyoumakethat.com on how to make your own silk organza pressing cloth with a handy ribbon to loop around your arm while you press.

E

ROLLED HEM:

6

Exchange your sewing machine presser foot for a rolled hem foot. Fold the hem twice at a width of approximately 3mm each fold and for about 6cm. Place the folded hem under the presser foot and, holding the thread to the back, sew about 2cm. (See Pic E.)

7

Stop, making sure the needle is down, lift up the presser foot and guide the folded hem into the curved metal of the foot. Put down the presser foot and continue sewing, gently guiding your fabric. The foot will pull your hem into place and create a very neat and very narrow hem. (See Pic F.)

F

R OLLED HE M FEE T

Rolled hem feet, or hemmer feet as they are also known, come in different sizes depending on the width of the hem you’d like to sew.

Brother 2mm narrow hemmer foot, £12.49, www.jaycotts.co.uk

This unique design creates a flat, narrow hem on lightweight fabric. The groove under the foot has a slightly wider and flatter form to create a beautifully narrow 2mm hem. For use with Brother top-loading bobbin machines.

4mm & 6mm Janome hemmer feet set £22, www.jaycotts.co.uk

This handy pack of two narrow hem feet for 4mm and 6mm hems is a great buy if you regularly sew with drapey fabric.

Try using a microtex needle if your fabric is very fine.

An especially thin, accurate point prevents snagging and are excellent for patchwork piecing.

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Holiday

T R O P E R D TREN

er you’re taking a th he w d an g in sw ll in fu ’t want to miss! on w Summer holidays are u yo ds en tr w fe there are a trip or staycationing, TOTALLY TROPICAL ’ Butterick 6441 Misses it Surplice-Back Jumpsu & Romper £4.75, www.sewdirect.com

d Orange palm-print lea , split-leg jumpsuit £30 om www.prettylittlething.c

ong the If you can’t sunbathe am holiday the e tak n the palm trees big, bold feeling with you using rsized leafy prints. Choose ove l nne palm leaf fronds to cha it p kee the tropical vibe and t or prin ker dar a understated with y wa st be The r. lou background co t prin ent tem sta this to show off ether is wearing it all over, wh playsuit ss, dre xi ma a h that’s wit keep or easy-wear jumpsuit and – m accessories to a minimu ing! let the print do the talk

.99, Tropical jumpsuit £29 www.bonprix.co.uk

leaves Monochrome tropical tre, viscose £5.50 per me .co.uk wwwcottonreelstudio

Mix and match a palm-print shirt with a tan leather skirt or camel trousers to take you from summer into autumn. tch Leaf-print viscose stre 99 jersey dress fabric £4. rvacrafts.com per metre, www.mine

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nt cotton Monstera cheese pla ximately pro (ap d yar per $17.50 er.com low onf po w.s £13.56), ww

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FEATURE POMPOM Glastonbury m ight be over for another ye ar but you can still revel in the festival feel with a ch eeky pompom trim or embellis hment. Tie a cluster of chun ky pompoms to your handba g or sew a length of tiny pompoms to the edges of your sleeves, collar or shor ts to add a splash of colo ur and a real wow factor. C ombine with a Boho print fo r double the fun!

Coachella sh orts pattern, $10 (approximatel y www.stripedsw £7.75 ) PDF download, allowdesigns .com

Calke Abbey Clematis ditsy scarf £18, www.shop.nationaltrust.org.uk

GO WITH THE FLOW Easy breezy viscose and rayon, so perfect for warmer weather.

Scarves are a quick way to introduce colour or prints into your wardrobe and you can easily sew up an infinity scarf or hem a simple handkerchief-shape shawl in an evening. Rifle through your stash for lightweight fabric that can drape well or treat yourself to an eye-catching print you know would sit well with your holiday outfits.

Fleur Bleue cotton scarf £12.95, www.dotcomgiftshop.com

Ethereal Fusion Millefiori Ethereal rayon £4.40 per metre, www.fabrichq.co.uk

1” pompom tr im £2.99 for 3 yards, www. stitchstudioo c.e

tsy.com

Straw pompo m £25, www.very beach bag .co.uk

Indigo print rayon £6.79 per yard www.paislyprint.etsy.com

Use a subtle print to pick out accent colours from your outfit and accessories. A flash of pink lipstick or a pink nail would co-ordinate perfectly with this muted palette.

Pompom pack s various sizes from £1 per 25 pack, www.hobbyc raft.co.uk

Falmer pompo m shorts £14, www.mat alan.co.uk Multicoloured scarf £12, www.mandco.com

Seventies print scarf £28, www.oliverbonas.com

Misses’ Simplicity 1127 scarves £14.89, www.stuff4crafts.com

Add a pop of neon!

Neon yellow po £4.50 per 5m mpom trim reel, www.bagmak ingsupplies.c o.uk

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Stylish

WIDE-LEG trousers

Classic chic and easy to wear, these wide-leg pants are everything you need from summer trousers!

Project CLAIRE GARSIDE www.simplesewpatterns.com

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Claire

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STYLE LAYPLANS

SKILL LEVEL:

60"-wide fabric

45"-wide fabric

FABRIC TYPES: Medium-weight fabric, suiting, cotton, linen, denim chambray

Sizes 8-12

MATERIALS: •• size 8-12 2.67m 112cm-wide or 2.80m 150cm-wide fabric •• size 14-18 1.55m 112cm-wide or 2.27m 150cm-wide fabric •• 9” concealed zip •• 50cm medium-weight iron-on interfacing •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

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Selvedge

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Selvedge

Sizes 14-18

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7

7 SIZING

NOTES: Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout After cutting your pieces, zigzag or overlock the side seams and hems ready to stitch together Apply iron-on interfacing (fusing) to ONE set of the waistband pieces HOW TO MAKE: Baste the pocket facing A to the pocket bag, stitch all the way around from (a) to (b) and then sew the facing piece to the pocket bag around the bottom curve.

(See Pic A.)

1

Body measures (inches)

8

10

12

14

16

18

To fit waist

26”

28”

30”

32”

34”

36”

To fit hip

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

46”

2 3

Stay-stitch pocket facing B to the front leg as shown. (See Pic B.)

4

7

Flip pocket bag over, folding the facing back as well as you go. You will have the pocket facing B, showing its right side now.

Press. (See Pic D.)

2

B

Press the pocket bag so it is neatly shaped and lying flat to the trouser.

Stitch together along the free curve to create the pocket. Press. (See Pic G.)

4

4 2

2

2

D

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8

4

2 C

Turn the trousers so they are wrong side out and fold the pocket bag in half. (See Pic F.)

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8

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7

A

Top-stitch along top of pocket curve. Use a small stitch close to the edge of the pocket. (See Pic E.)

6

8

b

5

With right sides together (RST) place the pocket bag onto front leg, sandwiching pocket facing B between. Stitch through the three layers where marked. (See Pic C.)

a 4

Sizes 8-12

6

5

PATTERN PIECES: 1 - Front leg 2 - Back leg 3 - Pocket bag 4 - Front waistband 5 - Back waistband 6 - Pocket facing A 7 - Pocket facing B

Sizes 14-18

E

F

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8

On the WS of back trouser pieces, pin darts and sew in place. At the end of the dart do NOT back-stitch; simply tie the ends into a knot. This avoids any unwanted bulges. Press towards CB. (See Pic H.)

Download labels to pin to your pattern pieces from www. sewnowmag. co.uk

9

With RST pin UNFUSED back waistband to trouser waist, matching notches.

Sew 1cm seam. Press seams up. (See Pic I.) Repeat for the other back trouser piece.

10

Fold back the seam allowance and press at the CB. Pin concealed zip in place on top of the folded seam allowance, with the top of the zip lined up with the top of the waistband. Baste both sides of the zip to keep in place. (See Pic J.)

11

Change presser foot to a concealed zipper foot. Sew both sides of the zip starting from the open end, as far as possible. (See Pic K.)

12

At bottom of zip keep seams to the side. From last stitches, RST sew 1cm CB seam to end of back crotch. Press seam open. (See Pic L.)

28

13

Front: with RST pin together centre front crotch seam. Sew 1cm seam.

Press seam open. (See Pic M.) With RST pin UNFUSED front waistband to front trouser waist, matching notches as in Step 9.

17

14

18

With RST pin back and front side seams together, matching waist seams and notches. Sew and press open.

With RST pin centre front and centre back crotch together and pin inside legs, matching crotch seam and notches. Sew in place. (See Pic 0.)

On WS fold in each side of fused waistband 1cm. (See Pic R.) Fold on waist seam edge and pin fused waistband ends to side of zip. Fold and pin the rest of the waistband matching seams. Baste-stitch in place. On the RS sink-stitch (or stitch in ditch) the waistband at the waist seam.

Turn up hems 3cm. Pin and hand-sew in place, or blind hem-stitch using a blind hem foot. Give the trousers a good press to finish.

GET THE LOOK

15

With RST pin side seams of fused back and front waistband. Sew 1cm seam. Press open. (See Pic P.)

Navy and cream floral-print linen Classic 150cm-wide medium-weight linen perfect for dressmaking, light home dĂŠcor items or bags

16

With RST place and pin fused waistband to unfused waistband, matching side seams and notches. Sew together. (See Pic Q.) On the right side (RS), keeping waist seam toward fused waistband, edgestitch fused waistband seam edge approximately 2mm from seam.

ÂŁ6.95 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk

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My sewing

Angeline’s colourful sewing room

essentials

Angeline Murphy shares her must-have tools for the sewing room

S

ewing as a hobby may appear expensive, especially when you are surrounded by hundreds of advertisements for the latest gadgets. However, you can start stitching on a budget and I will show you how!

The minimum equipment needed for any sewist is a tape measure, at least two pairs of scissors – one for cutting fabric and the other for cutting paper – pins and needles, thread, a stitch ripper, a sewing machine and a container to keep everything together. There are also hundreds of handy gadgets that are invaluable and for more enthusiastic sewists, an overlocker is required along with an array of feet for the sewing machine.

Angeline and sleeves. Other invaluable tools I now have under my belt are my dress dummy, rotary cutters and a great sewing machine.

I now use the Janome Horizon and it is just magic! One of my favourite features is how it cuts the thread at the end of a stitch – it really is the small things in life! The machine comes with an array of features including 900 built-in stitches and different feet to finish off garments to a high standard. This includes a rolled hem foot, which gives a professional finish.

“SEWING CAN BE AN To be honest I’m EXPENSIVE HOBBY IF still finding my way YOU LET IT BUT DON’T around the machine GET CAUGHT UP IN as it has so many fabulous features.

Up until I was on The Great British Sewing Bee I sewed with my Lidl £60 machine. I had this for four years and used it to stitch up many garments to a ALL THE high standard, including THAT ARE my bridesmaid dresses.

There was nothing fancy about the machine at all. As a beginner, all I needed was a straight stitch, an invisible zipper foot and my trusty stitch ripper. At that stage I had no requirement for any fancy gadgets nor did I know about half of them!

It was only when I was on the Sewing Bee that I met the wonderful Tracey, who had every gadget going. Tracey’s sewing belt was equipped with every foot, cutting shears, measuring tool and marking aid you could think of! It was fabulous and we all picked up so many handy tips from her!

I cannot stress how important a good iron and ironing board is for pressing your garments as you sew to get the best results. A tailor’s ham is also handy for pressing along curves such as the bust

Fellow Sewing Bee contestant Tracey became known for her love of sewing gadgets on the show

GADGETS AVAILABLE”

We moved house last year and I now have a dedicated sewing room full of so many bits and bobs I’ve picked up over the years. Finishing off a garment to a high standard is something I always aim to do and some handy tools to help accomplish this are the iron for pressing, collar pointer to push out corners and tailor’s chalk to mark all notches and points on my fabric.

Sewing can be an expensive hobby if you let it but don’t get caught up thinking you have to have all the gadgets that are available. Start off by seeking out a good second-hand machine, buy some curtains from a charity shop and use this to stitch up your first garments. If you make a mistake along the way at least it won’t be a costly one!

Angeline's trusty Janome Horizon sewing machine

Save money by practising sewing using curtains or old scarves rather than forking out on new fabric

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I N T E R V I E W

GRAPHIC

fanatic Surface pattern designer Gail Myerscough’s work has been featured across everything from fabric to greeting cards. We chatted to Gail to find out more about her design process and what inspires her distinctive style Words BETHANY ARMITAGE

What made you decide to become surface pattern designer?

I studied Surface Pattern Design at university 20 years ago. At that time all work was hand drawn and used colour separation.

Computers were hardly used apart from one session a week where we learnt the very basic Microsoft Paint program. As my skills became obsolete I worked in other areas but really wanted to re-train and start designing again. In January 2015 I started Hothouse white fabric, £30 per metre, www.gailmyerscough.co.uk

Module 1 of the Make It In Design course and have subsequently taken Modules 2 & 3 and the Ultimate Portfolio Builder module. Not only has it give me the much-needed skills to start designing again but re-kindled my passion for design. Since I launched my first collection in October 2015 my work has been featured in many leading magazines.

Where do you find your inspiration?

I am inspired by mid-century design, the 60s and architecture. I designed a collection that took inspiration from the Modernist Architecture of Manchester. I find inspiration all around me; I read design magazines and love browsing on Pinterest and Instagram. I also have a large collection of design history books, which I use as a starting point.

Tea Love mug, £10, www.gailmyerscough.co.uk

Tell us about your design process.

I start by drawing my designs in my sketchbook, I then scan the drawings into Adobe Illustrator on my computer, which I use to colour and manipulate the images to create the overall design. My designs are then digitally printed onto fabric, cushions, mugs and stationery. I make all my lampshades from my digitally printed fabric.

I would describe my style as modern retro.

I love to use bold colours and shapes in my work.

Do you prefer sketching by hand or on the computer?

I love both. I like to take ideas from my sketchbook and transform them into a finished pattern on my computer. They

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INTERVIEW

Cushions, £30, www.gailmyerscough.co.uk

Atomic Kitty print, £10, www.gailmyerscough.co.uk

are both an important part of my design process. I try to fill a page a day in my sketchbook as it’s a great way of coming up with new pattern ideas.

What are your favourite homeware trends right now?

Pinterest has named retro interiors and 70s furniture as one of its fastest-growing UK trends for 2017. I love retro design and my home has many original 60s and 70s pieces.

It’s a bit of a time capsule! I also really like the current botanical trend as it’s very bold and striking.

What advice do you have for anyone looking to turn their design skills into a business?

You need to be passionate about what you do as a lot of hard work is involved.

As well as great designs you need some business sense and lots of determination.

A good website is important as you can have a portfolio full of beautiful designs and products but you need people to see them.

Social media has been really important in growing my business. Most of my sales have come from sharing my designs on social media. Twitter has been my most successful platform. I think it’s important for your social media posts to show your personality. If

Summer Botanical design

all your posts are sell, sell, sell people will eventually switch off.

How do you like to spend your free time?

I have a full-time job and my pattern design work is my spare time! I’m passionate about designing so it’s a joy to come home and work on new ideas. If I have any time left I like to sew and I love to rummage around charity shops.

What can we expect to see from you over the next few months?

I’m currently working on some new collections as I want to expand my portfolio of work. My new Bloom Collection has just been launched on my website and I’m also working on some Christmas designs. My

long-term goals are to continue designing and building my brand, gain new clients and continue to develop my practice. I would love my designs to be picked up by major retailers and brands. My ultimate goal is for my designs to be instantly recognisable as a ‘Gail Myerscough’.

Find out more about Gail and see her latest designs at www.gailmyerscough.co.uk

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Cool

After

KIMONO

Don’t ignore a larger garment in a charity shop if you like the fabric.

Carissa shows you how to use it to create a cool, floaty kimono Project CARISSA BROWNING

Before

Carissa 32

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REFASHION SKILL LEVEL:

Turn to page 38 for our upcycling tips

MATERIALS: •• Skirt or dress with 1.5-2m of fabric HOW TO MAKE: Cut away the waistband and hanging straps. (See Pic A.)

1 2 3 4 5

Press out the pleats.

(See Pic B.)

Cut the garment open along one side seam. (See Pic C.) Overlock or zigzag-stitch all the raw edges. (See Pic D.)

Fold over 2cm to create a hem at both short edges; these will become the kimono’s front opening. (See Pic E.)

6

10

7

11 12

With right sides facing fold the hemmed edges towards the centre, leaving 16cm between the hemmed edges and remaining side seam of the original skirt. Sew both sides of top edge, which will be the shoulder seams. (See Pic F.)

Unfold the fabric to flatten the shoulder seams. Fold the serged edge of the back neck towards the inside and insert hanging straps at each shoulder.

(See Pic G.)

Sew or serge the new side seam, beginning at the 20cm mark and curving inwards slightly, then straight down to bottom edge. Repeat for other side seam. (See Pic J.) Carefully cut he armholes open along the fold. (See Pic K.) Serge and hem the armhole edges.

(See Pic L.)

carissaknits.com is a little corner of the internet where Carissa explores all manner of crafts. There you’ll find her sewing inexpensive thrift shop finds into fabulous new frocks, knitting up a new shawl, cross-stitching a fresh bit of kitsch for her home, reviewing the latest addition to her craft book collection and all sorts of other crafty goodness!

8

Top-stitch along back neck edge to hem and anchor hanging straps, (See Pic H.)

9

Measure 20cm down from the shoulder seam along the folded edge and mark with pin. Continue to pin down the folded edge to hold it in place. (See Pic I.)

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The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online

by telephone

or visit the shop

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice.

Over 80 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration.

We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines.

We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display.

We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops.

Free customer car park

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The pattern

REVIEW

GET 25% OFF

The Jersey and Crossover top pattern.

Use code SEWNOWTOPS at www.simplesew patterns.com Offer valid until 30th September 2017

Bringing a simple shape to life with this fun fabric, blogger Simona Barlow stitches the Simple Sew Cross-over Back Blouse Words SIMONA BARLOW www.sewingadventuresintheattick.wordpress.com

W

hen I was asked to review a pattern for Sew Now I was delighted.

I chose the Jersey Top & Cross-Over Back Blouse from Simple Sew because it’s a perfect pattern for beginners. It has two versions – one for knits and one for wovens – with a cute cross-over back.

If you feel you are not quite ready to give stretch fabric a go, this blouse is perfect for you. From the front it looks like a simple

Stunning detail at the back

The Jersey Top & Cross-Over Back Blouse Sizes 8-20, £10 www.simplesewpatterns.com

top, but all the drama happens at the back, which is what attracted me to this pattern in the first place. As you have the back cut on the bias, it’s a good idea to stay-stitch the seam on the centre back to avoid it from stretching out of shape. As usual practice, I also stay-stitch the necklines within the seam allowance. If using directional print fabric you can play around and cut one back piece on the cross grain. To finish off the hem, once the facing

was in, I under-stitched and then handstitched it in place using an invisible stitch for a more elegant look and to keep it from flapping out of place.

I even considered using contrasting fabric for the hem facing and finishing it off on the right side (in which case you need to consider your finish so there are no raw edges showing).This such a versatile pattern; one could use colour blocking, cut the back pattern pieces on different grains and even embellish it to your liking with eye-catching buttons or maybe a zip.

GET THE LOOK

Pink Cocktails This 140cm-wide high-quality Italian light medium-weight linen crepe has a fun cocktail design. The largest cocktail measures 14x5.5cm £26 per metre www.dittofabrics.co.uk

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DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Dachshund

WRIST REST

This happy pup helps cushion your wrists while you work at your keyboard. For extra comfort, pop him in a microwave and make him a hot dog!

Project MOLLIE JOHANSON

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HOME Go to www.squishy cutedesigns.com/ ladder-stitch for a ladder stitch tutorial

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• ¼ yard brown flannel (22.9cm) •• dark brown or black felt scraps •• 1 skein of dark brown embroidery floss •• rice •• templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

“TO WARM YOUR WRIST REST, HEAT IT IN A MICROWAVE FOR 90 SECONDS. YOU CAN ALSO PLACE IT IN A FREEZER FOR A CHILLY DOG!“

NOTES: All seam allowances are ¼” HOW TO MAKE: Cut two bodies, two tails, four legs and four ears from the brown flannel.

1 2

Pin the pair of tail, leg and ear pieces right sides together. Sew around the edges, leaving an opening for turning.

(See Pic A.)

3

Turn the pieces right side out and sew the openings closed using ladder stitch.

Stitch around each piece using running stitch and three strands of embroidery floss.

Mollie body piece, placing each leg about 4” in from the end. (See Pic B.)

6

Pin the body pieces right sides together with the legs facing the front and folded in so they are away from the edges. Place the tail between the layers at the back end.

(See Pic C.)

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5

8

Cut two eyes and a nose from the felt.

Appliqué the felt shapes to one end of a body piece and embroider the rest of the mouth using backstitch and six strands of embroidery floss.

Hand-sew the ears just above the face.

Stitch the leg pieces to the second

Sew around the body, leaving an opening at one end for turning. Turn the body right side out and top-stitch around the body using running stitch, leaving the opening unstitched.

Fill the body with rice, sew the opening closed with ladder stitch and finish the topstitching. (See Pic D.)

leave open for turning

ladder stitch

A

B fill with rice tuck in tail, legs and ears

running stitch

C

D

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Charity shops and unwanted clothes can be a delight for thrifty sewists. We show you how to make the most of what’s on offer

by BETHANY ARMITAGE

TOP 10 UPCYCLING IDEAS TAKING IT ALL IN Choose a men’s T-shirt or one a few sizes too big and use it to practise resizing, taking it in at the waist and inserting darts where needed. Have a play around with adapting it to suit your measurements to create a unique shift dress on a budget.

IN THE FRAME Channel this floral Bardot dress £32, www.simplybe.co.uk

OFF THE SHOULDER Summer is all about showing off your shoulders. If you’re not sure about how to insert a cold shoulder then a Bardot neckline could be a brilliant option. Take an existing dress or shirt, cut across the shoulders and use elastic and gather the top hem so that it stays up. Accessorise with a choker.

38

We’ve framed leftover canine-print fabric from our doggy kennel. Find the project on page 76

Spied a beautiful print or do you have some leftover fabric from a favourite garment you’ve made? Why not pick up a frame from a charity shop and hang it on your wall? Mix and match different frames around your sewing room and create super-quick wall art.

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INSPIRATION FRILL SEEKERS

PRETTY PATCHWORK

Join in with 2017’s hottest trend by attaching a ruffled edge.

You can use fabric from the existing dress or sleeves to add a frill to a hem or panel, or choose a contrasting fabric, like this grey jersey tee with cotton shirt ruffles.

You don’t have to be a pro quilter to try a little bit of patchwork. Use cotton scraps to piece together anything from cushion covers to quilt tops or try appliquéing a patchwork motif onto clothing or home décor, like this supersweet pieced flower.

Grey marl T-shirt with frill detail £15, www.prettylittlething.com

Photo credit: dimitris_k/shutterstock.com

DIY DENIM HANDBAG

WOOLLY WONDERS

Our resident upcycling expert Carissa Browning showed how to refashion a pair of old jeans into a practical and attractive shopping bag in issue 10 (www. moremags.com). Unwanted jeans are easy to come by and we love that Carissa made a feature of the jeans pocket too.

Unwanted woolly jumpers are ripe for refashioning. Turning it into felt means it can be cut, sewn and shaped. Put a 100% wool jumper inside an old pillowcase, use a small amount of soap and set on a hot wash.

It might take a couple of goes for the fibres to fuse together.

You can then turn it into bags, purses and even jewellery!

TRANSFORM LOGO T-SHIRTS Take a favourite band or printed T-shirt and quickly upcycle into a simple cushion. All you need to do is cut it into two even squares, sew it up and stuff – what could be easier?

SCISSOR HAPPY Play around with attaching cami tops to maxi skirts or chopping up long beachy dresses and fitting them with a waistband. This way you can co-ordinate them with a range of summer tops. If you’re creating a dress you may want to also add a metallic zip fastening running down the back, linking the two parts together and helping your new garment stand out from the crowd.

START STRIPPING Jersey fabric is extremely versatile for upcycling, but over a few years it can start to fade or loose its shape. To make full use of old T-shirts and stretch fabric once they’re past their best, cut them into 2” strips and use them to weave, knit and crochet new everything from rugs to cushions, and necklaces to scarves.

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INSPIRATION

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Two of our favourite suppliers embrace this summer’s themes – soft pinks and whimsical birds

POPULAR PINKS, HIGGS & HIGGS

BEAUTIFUL BIRDS, M IS FOR MAKE

Higgs & Higgs has a passion for good-quality, design-led modern and classic fabric and trim. Browse the website or visit the shop in Gloucester. www.higgsandhiggs.com

Brenda

Independent online fabric shop founded

by Kate, m is for make offers a handpicked, complementary collection of beautiful fabric for dressmaking and quilting. www.misformake.co.uk

Kate Old Rose stretch denim £11.99 per metre A firm favourite at Higgs & Higgs, this coloured stretch denim is perfect for the Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dress.

Bye Bye Birdie £14.40 per metre This fantastic origami print is an all-time favourite. It’s a soft, lightweight cotton cambric with great drape and is perfect for all kinds of dressmaking.

Grey Magical Unicorn £7.99 per metre This unicorn print is also available in pink and in jersey and is ideal for little girls and for nurseries.

Perch in Mint £15.60 per metre This is such beautifully illustrated fabric; it’s like a work of art! Imagine it as dress or even as lightweight curtains in a nursery.

Delicate Multi Sprig on White Dotted Swiss fine lawn £8.99 per metre A delightful semisheer, floaty lawn, this floral fabric is perfect for summer dresses and delicate tops.

Folkwood Owls £16.40 per metre A modern take on the popular motif of owls, this cotton shirting fabric can be used for quilting and dressmaking and would be great for fussy cutting to use in a quilt.

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11/07/2017 17:51

Sleepover

DUFFLE BAG

Nine-year-old Lucy shows us how to make a one-of-a-kind duffle bag, complete with all the patches you can fit!

Project LUCY AUDEN

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Lucy

11/07/2017 17:56

KIDS SKILL LEVEL:

Find out more about why Lucy loves sewing on page 45

MATERIALS: •• 1x1.5m 8oz washed denim cotton dress fabric •• 45cm white plastic chunky open-end zip •• 1.5m 38mm-wide orange webbing •• iron-on patches •• navy blue & orange thread HOW TO MAKE: Draw around a 22cm side plate – cut four circles adding 1.5cm seam allowance all round. (See Pic A.) Cut straight edges across two of these circles as these will be end pockets. (See Pic B.) Cut a 47x72cm rectangle from the denim.

1

2

Iron a double hem on the straight edges of the circles and stitch close to the fold.

Pin these to the two remaining circles.

3

Lay the rectangle flat on the floor and pin the zip (face down) to the two short edges. (See Pic C.) Stitch along the length then turn over, press flat and top-stitch on the right side. (See Pic D.)

4

Start with a cut edge of the webbing, near the centre of the bag piece, and lay it up to the top edge 11.5cm from the long cut edge, pinning in place. (See Pic E.) Have a 35cm long piece of webbing looped above the zip then pin down the bag, this leaves a 16.5cm gap in between the two pieces. (See Pic F.) Trim the webbing (fold under 1cm) where the two ends meet. Stitch the webbing in place stopping 5cm down from the zip edges. Fold the handles in half and stitch the centre 20cm together to make it easier to carry. (See Pic G.)

GET THE LOOK Denim cotton dress fabric 8oz, £11.99 per metre

5

Lay the patches in place, remembering that the centre part of the fabric is the underside of the bag so won’t be seen. Pin in place then pick up by the handles to check all patches are the right way up and you like the placement. (See Pic H.) Add a patch to the end pockets if desired. Iron all patches in place as per the instructions.

38mm-wide orange webbing, 69p per metre

Wide range of iron-on patches, from £1.69 each

White plastic chunky open-end zip, £2.19 each All available from www.minervacrafts.com

6

Do the zip up and, with right sides together, pin the ends of the bag to the body then stitch to complete the bag. (See Pic I.)

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

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mini

makers Your child has started asking questions about what you’re sewing, maybe they want to try it for themselves. Here’s how you can help little ones build their skills and follow in your footsteps

Build their hand-sewing skills by teaching them a couple of basic stitches like blanket stitch

Words BETHANY ARMITAGE

A

curious little face appears at your sewing table, drawn by the drum of your sewing machine, it asks: “What are you doing?” If this sounds like a familiar story then now could be the time to let your child, grandchild, niece or nephew in on the magic of sewing! There’s no right time to teach a child to sew as this will depend on the kid. If they start asking questions or seem interested in what you’re making, this is your cue. A great place to start is with hand sewing. Teach them the basics of threading a chunky hand-sewing needle with thread or embroidery floss and try stitching onto felt. Felt won’t fray and you can make quick and easy toys in no time with the addition of some toy stuffing.

These easy-threading plastic sewing needles from www.beadandbuttoncompany.co.uk are ideal for open-weave fabric and trying embroidery and cross stitch, £2.99 for a pack of 20

44

TASK 1 HAND SEWING: Draw a simple shape and let your child cut it out twice from felt. Using a contrasting colour thread, so that they can see their stitches clearly, get them to do a running stitch all the way round, leaving a 3cm gap.

Stuff the shape and sew up the gap, finishing with a knot or backstitch.

Once they are confident, try teaching them blanket stitch to create a more attractive edge! Why not stick or sew on felt shapes to create a face?

Once they’ve got to grips with the basics of hand sewing and understand a little more about joining fabric pieces together, you can talk about using machines to create a more robust, professional and, of course, quicker finish. Plenty of adult sewists can struggle to master their machine so begin by letting your child sew with you under supervision so they can see how the machine works and how to use it safely. From the age of six they might be ready to be shown your sewing machine, but let your child’s confidence and abilities guide you when deciding when they are ready to try it or work without supervision.

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FEATURE

Help them to slowly guide the fabric through

Lucy says...

We asked our newest (and youngest!) Sew Now contributor Lucy Auden, aged nine, more about why she sews

TASK 2 MACHINE SEWING: Children often find it much easier to follow a guide when sewing. Draw a line down a piece of scrap fabric and ask them to sew as close to the line as they can. Help guide the fabric and keep the speed slow. Make sure they understand that faster sewing isn’t better sewing and it’s better to go slow and steady and get it right. Let them draw wiggly lines, curves and corners onto fabric and have a go at sewing onto them.

Once they’re feeling comfortable on a machine, ask your child what is it they’d like to make. You could start with something simple like a cushion, purse or toy. Choose an item that isn’t too fiddly and won’t require expensive fabric or notions! Let them pick out a fabric from your stash (hide your best ones!) or pop to the fabric shop and help them to pick some from the shelf so they can be involved from start to finish. It’s probably best not to dive straight in with sewing garments but a simple elasticated-waist skirt, pyjama trousers or vest could make a brilliant intermediate project for an ambitious little one.

Our upcycled Japanese market bag from issue 9 could be a good first sewing project; it’s super simple and all you need is an old pillowcase.

Sew Now 9 is available at www.moremags.com

TASK 3 GET CREATIVE:

What made you want to start sewing?

I liked watching my mum sew and wanted to try myself.

Who taught you to sew?

My mum.

What is your favourite thing about sewing?

Being proud of what you sew!

What’s your favourite thing you’ve ever sewn?

The sleepover duffle bag.

What would you like to try sewing next?

I’d like to make myself a jumpsuit for the summer.

Turn to page 42 to make Lucy’s brilliant duffle bag!

Find a simple pattern and project that won’t take more than an hour or two to make. Work with them patiently to cut the pattern and fabric and sew the design together. There will be wonky lines and mismatched prints aplenty but this is their project so let them enjoy it and make it their own!

Once they’ve finished their project make sure to celebrate it! Take lots of photos, wear it out or show it off when people come round. Who knows, you could be living with a future sewing superstar!

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PICKS FOR

the kids

what to sew Looking for a few more ideas on ese resources with your children? Check out th BUILD THEIR SKILLS

SUMMER READ

Superstar blogger and dressmaker Jane Marland www.handmadejane.co.uk has recently released a book dedicated to teaching kids to sew. Get into Sewing contains beautifully colourful and clear-tofollow projects. It concentrates on hand sewing and shows children how to build their skills and make items such as phone cases and bunting for their bedroom. £12.99 from www.waylandbooks.com

PASSION FOR FASHION Ready to move onto the sewing machine?

The Fashion Factory by Amanda Riley is aimed at tweens and teens and equips them with the skills to upcycle and embellish clothes to create on-trend, unique garments. It's a brilliant introduction to dressmaking and is packed with budget-friendly ideas. £16.99 from www.quadrille.com

46

Packed with photos and illustrations, this is a brilliant book for the summer holidays! It includes 12 easy-to-follow handsewn projects that kids can try at their own pace. We especially love these adorable bear bags. £9.99 from www.dk.com

FUN WITH FELT

Grab a pile of felt, thread and needle and get started making everything from finger puppets to cute bookmarks. Filled with fun little characters, Now I Can Sew by Sian Hamilton has 20 inspiring projects for little ones and is perfect for practising hand-sewing skills. £12.99 from www.gmcbooks.com

IDEAL FOR TEENAGERS

PRACTISE MACHINE SEWING

dot-to-dot sheets you can print Suzanne Beaubien has released free improve their machine-stitching out at home and use to help kids eaubaby.blogspot.co.uk skills. Download yours at www.myb

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New fabrics added every week

sewoverit.co.uk/shop £2.50 UK P&P 0207 326 0376 FREE for orders £75+ WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK

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DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

The Diamond

DRESS

This simple A-line dress with pockets is a quick way to get on the scuba trend Project CLAIRE GARSIDE www.simplesewpatterns.com

uick Super-q ! make

SKILL LEVEL: FABRIC TYPES: Cotton or viscose jersey, ponte roma or scuba MATERIALS: •• 2.2m 45” or 60”-wide fabric (sizes 6-12) •• 2.25m 45” or 60”-wide fabric (sizes 14-18) •• 2m stretch bias binding •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout HOW TO MAKE: With RST, join front and back dress at the shoulders using 1cm seam allowance.

Overlock or zigzag-stitch the edges to finish.

(See Pic A.)

1

2

Use the notches on the pattern or mark where you want the pockets to be positioned on the front and back of the dress pieces. Neaten the raw edges of the dress side seams and straight edge of pocket pieces using a zigzag stitch or overlocker (See Pic B.)

3

Navy mules £12, www.primark.com

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Matching the pocket pieces to the marked position on the front of the dress, pin in place with right sides together. Sew pocket piece onto bodice with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a 1.5cm gap at the top and bottom of the pocket. Repeat for all four pocket pieces, two at the front and two at the back, ensuring they match when the side seams are pinned together. (See Pic C.) Press the pockets away from the dress.

11/07/2017 17:47

STYLE SIZING

4

With right sides together and pockets matching, pin the side seams in place. Sew with a 1.5cm seam allowance, stopping 5mm after the sewing line, attaching the pockets and starting again 5mm before the bottom of the stitching line. (See Pic D.)

Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

To fit bust

32½”

35”

37”

39”

41”

43½”

45½”

47½”

To fit waist

29½”

31½”

33½”

35½”

37½”

39½”

41½”

43½”

38”

40”

42”

44”

46”

48”

50”

52”

To fit hip

WS

5

Sew pocket bags together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Neaten the raw edges. (See Pic E.)

WS

3

Snip carefully into the seam allowance above and below the pocket. Trim any excess bulk where necessary. Press side seam open, above and below the pocket.

WS (See Pic F.)

7

Join the neck binding at the shortest edge by placing right sides together and sewing a 1cm seam allowance. Turn through to the right side and fold with WS wrong sides together. Press and baste WS together within the seam allowance.

WS Repeat for the sleeve binding.

(See Pic G.)

WS

WS

45"-wide fabric FOLD

WS

6

WS

LAYPLAN

WS

2

WS

WS

1

WS

8

With right sides together and raw WSpin the neck binding edges aligned, all the way around the neckline. Pin RS RS first at the shoulder aligning the biding seam with one shoulder seam. Pin at the centre front andRS centre back WS RS and attach in place, removing pins as

WS

you go. Press upwards and top-stitch through the seam allowance from the right side if you wish. Repeat for the sleeve binding. (See Pic H.)

10

RS

Turn up the hem RS and sew in pace to complete. (See Pic I.)

WS

WS

GET THE LOOK

WS RS

WS RS

WS B

A

WS

C

RS

WS

WS

Bold geometric-print stretch scuba This bold geometric scuba print is made up of shades WS of red, gold and navy blue and has a classic, yet on-trend look

WS

WS

RS

WSx

RS x

WS

WS

x x

D

£10.99 per metre

E

x

WS

WS

RS G

x

RS

x

x

x

RS

x

x

H

x

RS

RS

RS

x x

I

x x

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www.minervacrafts.com

F

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11/07/2017 17:47

WIN! A SPECIAL-EDITION JANOME DKS100 SEWING MACHINE WORTH

£529

We’ve teamed up with Janome to offer one lucky reader a special-edition machine packed with fantastic features and 100 built-in stitch patterns

S

tep up your sewing with this fully computerised Janome limited-edition sewing machine with an extensive 100 stitches and features to cover any sewing project. Whether you’re a dressmaker, bag maker or quilter this machine will suit all your needs and includes a unique feature enabling you to elongate a selection of stitches by up to five times – perfect for adding decorative stitching. When tackling intricate sewing projects, the knee lifter allows you to use your knees to raise and lift the presser foot, keeping your hands free to focus on the fabric. The machine comes complete with automatic buttonhole foot, easy-set bobbin system, speed controller and start/stop button.

This all-round machine is ideal for the beginner, and will also allow you to improve and refine your skills and extend the projects you can create.

EXCITING FEATURES INCLUDE:

100 built-in stitches Easy-set bobbin system Maximum speed controller Programmable needle up/down Lock stitch feature Start/stop button Auto one-step buttonholes (three styles ) Pattern elongation by up to five times Auto needle threader and thread cutter Unique bobbin winder cutter and much, much more!

Since 1969, Janome has been a brand leader in the UK with an extensive range of sewing machines and overlockers. All products are designed for ease of use to encourage all levels of sewing and Janome is renowned for quality and reliability at affordable prices with the aim of providing customers an unrivalled level of service.

Visit www.janome.co.uk to find your local Janome stockist Head to www.ppjump.com/sewnow11 and enter your details for your chance to win this sewing machine and to enter all of our fab giveaways this issue. Closing date 31st August 50

Winners will be notified be email. Competition only open to UK residents. By entering these competitions you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing purposes.

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Side floral scuba dress £85, www.longtallsally.com

G E T

T H E

L O O K

Dive into

SCUBA

Make sewing projects a cinch with vibrant colours and intricate patterns this summer!

Beige neoprene £17.95 per metre, www.discoverdirect.co.uk

Midnight Dahlia scuba £18 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Gilding the Lily £6 per metre, www.fabworks.co.uk

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Red plain bodycon scuba £7.55 per metre, ww.abakhan.co.uk

Royal Corris floral scuba £15 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Lime neoprene £11.99 per metre, www.fabricuk.com

11/07/2017 18:04

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11/07/2017 18:26

’s n g UK i e e ew i n Th .1 s gaz o N ma

MAKE IT A

Stylish Summer

Don’t miss!

2 FREE GIFTS WORTH OVER

£17

ISSUE 43

ON SALE

10TH AUG Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls43

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11/07/2017 17:25

e.jpg

KIT

a ew eed more

E

e wing

cover so me p to g here’s

DISCOUNTS GIVEAWAYS Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash 20% OFF AT GIRL CHARLEE We’ve teamed up with the lovely people over at Girl Charlee to offer Sew Now readers an exclusive 20% off all fabric from www.girlcharlee.co.uk. Simply enter code SEWNOW11 at checkout and fill your stash with everything from chevron prints, cotton, jersey and more!

25% OFF NEW LOOK AND SIMPLICITY PATTERNS AT CRAFTSTASH Treat yourself with 25% off sewing patterns at CraftStash! With great brands such as New Look, Simplicity and many more, you’re sure to find something to create right away!

To claim this offer, visit www.craftstash.co.uk/sn11offer While stocks last. Limited time only, offer expires 7th September

WIN A PEACH PERFECT SEWING KIT Start your sewing journey with a Peach Perfect Learn How to Sew Kit, where you’ll find everything you need to get stitching! Find more brilliant how-to kits and gifts at www.peachperfect.co.uk

Offer expires 7th September

WIN A DRESS PATTERN FROM THE AVID SEAMSTRESS Two lucky winners will receive a pattern for their very own Shift Dress from The Avid Seamstress, perfect for a night out.. Visit www.theavid seamstress.co.uk and check out her blog for sewing inspiration.

WIN A COPY OF THE DRESSMAKER’S COMPANION Four lucky Sew Now readers will each receive a copy of Elizabeth M. Haywood's The Dressmaker’s Companion. This comprehensive book has everything you need to know in order to start your first successful sewing project, and every one after that!

Go to www. amazon. co.uk for pre-order information.

WIN A SPECIAL-EDITION JANOME SEWING MACHINE This fully computerised machine has all the features to make sewing simple and enjoyable, and an extensive range of stitches to cover every project. There’s also a special key that enables some stitches to be elongated by up to five times the normal length, and for quilters there’s even a knee lifter!

Find out more on page 50.

Worth

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To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow11 Closing date: 31st August 2017. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only.

By entering these competitions, you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK

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55

11/07/2017 18:07

Tent

tidy

your Use this in m craft roo

Keep your camping essentials close to hand in this neat tent tidy Project AMANDA RUSSELL & JULIET BAWDEN R&B Designs

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Juliet & Amanda

11/07/2017 18:07

HOME SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 2 fat quarters main fabric for backing & lining •• 2 fat quarters contrast fabric for pockets & hanging loop •• 23x46cm fusible interfacing •• water-erasable pen CUTTING: From main fabric, cut: 2 23x46cm rectangles From contrast fabric, cut: 23x28cm rectangle 23x18cm rectangle 23x15cm rectangle 20x7.5cm strip for hanging loop HOW TO MAKE: Iron the fusible interfacing onto the reverse of one of the pieces of main fabric.

1 2

To make the pockets, fold each piece of fabric in half lengthways, with reverse sides facing, and press. Pin the largest pocket in place at the lower edge of the backing fabric. Machine-sew the pocket around three sides with a 6mm seam allowance using straight stitch, leaving the top long edge open. (See Pic A.)

3

To position the middle pocket, measure 20cm up from the base, and place the long folded edge of the middle pocket so that it is pointing downwards. Pin and machinesew along the other long edge using a 1cm seam allowance. Repeat with the smallest pocket 13in from the base. (See Pic B.)

4

Press both pockets upwards so the long folded edge points towards the top of the tent tidy. Pin and sew down the two short sides with a 6mm seam. To divide the central pocket into two, sew a line in the middle through the pocket and backing. Use a water-erasable pen to mark the smallest pocket into three, and stitch along both lines.

(See Pic C.)

5 6

To make the hanging loop, following the step-by-step instructions. (See Pic D.)

Fold the loop in half. Pin it at the top of the backing fabric in the middle, facing inwards. (See Pic E.)

HOW TO SEW A HANGING LOOP

With right sides out, fold the strip of loop fabric in half lengthways. Press the fold to crease. Open out the fabric and fold in the outside edges to meet on the crease. Press this fold to crease.

Fold the strip in half again so all the raw edges are hidden. Pin and machine-sew along the turned edge to close.

7

With right sides together, pin the other piece of main fabric to the pocket backing fabric. Sew along all the sides with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving an opening of 7.5cm along the bottom edge for turning through. Clip the corners and seams.

8

Turn through the seam opening. Press the seams and slip-stitch the opening closed using a needle and thread. (See Pic F.)

Adapted from Fat Quarter Quick Makes by Juliet Bawden and Amanda Russell, published by GMC £12.99, available from www.thegmc group.com

Fold the strip in half to form a loop.

With the loop facing inwards, position it in between the two main pieces of fabric (right sides together). Pin and stitch together.

Turn right sides out.

A

B

C

D

E

F

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Collection bath mat £16, www.debenhams.com

Happiness candle £23.50, www.thegreatgiftcompany.co.uk

Rustic bathroom

Rocha John Rocha laundry basket £48, www.debenhams.com

Soap dispenser £5, www.george.co.uk

Maison Française, www.dunelm.com

Hand-painted floral canvas £20, www.dunelm.com Showcase your sewing skills with this handmade basket tutorial www.dearhandmadelife.com/ diy-fabric-bucket/

A rustic feel with rich tones to help you wind down after a long day

White peonies in jar £15, www.sainsburys.co.uk

Cream enamel jug £14, www.coastalhome.co.uk

Christy Beauvais towels from £14, www.jdwilliams.co.uk

Virginia bath £2,085, www.purebathroomcollection.co.uk

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Fabric Patterns Workshops

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk

Caffle Crafts (01934) 838327 Family run shop with patchwork fabrics, embroidery threads and sales agents for Brother sewing and embroidery machines with extensive after sales support.

2 miles from J21 M5 BS24 6SE

Chr salis

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Luxurious fabrics, Dressmaking classes www.claire-tyler.com 01243 555312

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Join today! Call Diana on 07748 530 318 Learn more at www.chrysalisfabrics.co.uk

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Patterns

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Linda

Denim argyle

CUSHION

Back

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HOME This fun upcycling project gives a new lease of life to outgrown or dated clothes. A few unused pieces of denim clothing are all it takes to make this classy cushion

60°

Project LINDA ROBERTUS

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• white, light blue & dark blue denim (a pair of jeans in each colour provides plenty of fabric) •• blue XL shirt •• 20” cushion insert •• rotary cutter, ruler & mat •• iron •• pins & quilters’ safety pins •• ¼” foot & walking foot •• pinking shears FINISHED SIZE: 20” square

6

4”

Pin-mark the middle of the diamond rows and use these pins as a guide for sewing through all layers with a decorative or a zigzag stitch. A walking foot will ensure that the layers do not slip.

(See pics B and C.)

4”

7

Undo one button of the shirt front and lay it right-side up on a flat surface.

Centre the quilted cushion front right side down over the top. (See Pic D.)

8

Pin the pieces together and sew around all four sides of the cushion using a ½” seam. Trim the corners and neaten the seams with pinking shears.

9

Undo the remaining buttons and turn the cushion right side out through this gap. Place the cushion insert into the finished cushion cover, do up the buttons and admire your handiwork. (See Pic E.)

NOTES: All measurements include a scant ¼” seam allowance CUTTING: From the jeans, cut: 4” strips from the length of each garment Trim one end of each strip at a 60° angle.

From the back of the blue shirt, cut: 21” square HOW TO MAKE: Lay out the strips in the following order: white, light blue, dark blue, light blue, white, light blue, dark blue, light blue, white.

Refer to the diagram, above.

A

1

D

2

Sew the strips together, making sure the 60° angle of each strip is at the top.

Press the seams to one side.

3 4

Cross-cut into 4” diamond strips, checking the 60° angle is accurate after each cut.

B

Sew the diamond strips together to form the argyle pattern. If necessary, take diamonds from some strips and add them to other strips to complete the pattern, or use leftover strips of denim to cut more diamonds. (See Pic A.) The finished piece should be just over 21” square.

5

Trim the pieced argyle design to 21” square, and pin it to the 21” square cut from the shirt back.

C

E

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STYLE files

Standout styles we would love to wear or make

This versatile pattern is perfect all year round

Photography www.lunea-images.com, fabric www.36bobines.com

Tiny details combined with a classic shape make this button-down placket dress perfect for so many occasions. It features neat gathering at the shoulder, a fully lined bodice and invisible side zip and would look fabulous in soft denim for day or a fluid crepe for evening. Gathers at the waist means easy fitting and we’re already looking forward to carrying this style through to autumn with berry hues and boots!

Belle Ile Dress Sizes EU 34-48 (UK 6-18) PDF €8.50 (approximately £7.50), paper pattern €15 (approximately £13.20) www.annekerdilescouture.com

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Sustainable tailoring: Take in a pencil skirt’s waistband

Jamie

Perfect your construction skills by leaning how to alter a waistband with Jamie Kemp’s expert step-by-step tutorial Words JAMIE KEMP www.maledevonsewing.co.uk

L

ast month we looked at the pencil skirt and how to get a good fit around the hips. This month we look at the waist and how to reduce the size to fit well.

1

If you have slightly larger hips you will often find the waist is too big, causing the skirt to lose its shape and rotate as you walk. (See Pic A.)

2

Although this alteration is a little more challenging than last time's it is a good way to learn and understand how a garment is constructed. First you need to know how much the waist needs to be reduced by. Measure your waist carefully and where the waistband of the skirt will

64

sit (here 33”). Begin at the waistband and carefully unpick to remove it completely.

This skirt has a lining attached but that can be left in situ. (See Pic B.)

“IF YOU HAVE SLIGHTLY LARGER HIPS YOU WILL OFTEN FIND THE WAIST IS TOO BIG, CAUSING THE SKIRT TO LOSE ITS SHAPE“

3

We now need to reduce the waist on the skirt piece to your measurements.

The exact procedure will differ from skirt to skirt but it will require sewing wider darts and/or side seams at the top. Measure the waist of the skirt (here 36”) and subtract

your measurements. So for this skirt 36” - 33” = 3”

4

I need to reduce the waist by 3”. I have two front darts, two rear darts and two side seams. To maintain the good look and shape of the skirt I will adjust my 3” over all the darts and seams. Halve the adjustment and divide by the number of seams. (See Pic C.) 1½” ÷ 6 seams = ¼” adjustment. For the darts mark the ¼” wider at the top but finish at the original point. Sew.

5

For the side seams measure from the top again but curve the new seam line so it blends in with the original seam approximately 3” from the top. (See Pic D.)

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TUTORIAL

6

Give everything a good press and pin the waistband back in place starting at the end with a buttonhole. Pin with right sides of waistband to right sides of skirt. (See Pic E.)

9

7

10

8

11

At the button end the waistband will be much longer. Measure the original length of the extended part of the waistband and remove the button. (See Pic F.) Measure from the end of the skirt and mark the end of the waistband extension. (See Pic G.)

Fold this end of the waistband with right sides together and sew along the marked line. Trim the fabric and clip corners. (See Pic H.) Flip the band right sides out and finish pinning it to the skirt.

(See Pic I.) Sew the waistband to the skirt and turn the inside of the waistband to the inside of the skirt. Press well. The inside of the waistband is either secured

in place by top-stitching from the outside, stitching ‘in the ditch’ (along the seam that joins the waistband to skirt you just created) or by hand-sewing a slip stitch.

Your skirt will dictate which method to use. (See Pic J.)

12

Put on the skirt, mark the button position and sew back in place.

(See Pic K.)

13

Well done. You now have a perfectly fitted pencil skirt!

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

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Sewing Machines & Craft

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for.

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SURREYLYNN KINGS

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LEICESTERSHIRE

32 Bridge Road, Hampton Court Village, East Molesey, Surrey KT8 9HA

Shop open 7 days a week Designer fabrics, 1000s of bolts, books,Brother notions, sewing machines, haberdashery, buttons & beads and bag making sewing workshops, accessories parties.

Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping

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A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.

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A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics.

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INSPIRATION

1

2

3

Ruffle one-shoulder top £14, www.tesco.com/ direct/clothing

Pink sleeveless top £39, www.houseoffraser.co.uk

4 Blush wrap top £18, www.tesco.com/direct/clothing

1. V8793 Misses’ Top Vogue Pattern Sizes XS-M, L-XXL, £14 www.sewessential.com

Valentina Twiggybow-neck collectiondress floral£89, blazer www.houseoffraser.co.uk £45, www.marksandspencer.com

SHOP IT OR SEW IT

An eye-catching neckline can transform a garment. Try these before the summer's out

2. McCall’s 6558 Misses’ Tops and Dresses Sizes 8-16, 18-24, £8.66 www.jaycotts.co.uk

3. New Look 6450 Misses' Easy Tops with Optional Neck Tie Sizes 6-8, £6.75 www.craftstash.co.uk

4. McCall’s 6991 Misses' Tops Sizes 8-16, 16-24, £9.25 www.sewdirect.com

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DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Adapted from Little Girls, Big Style

by Mary Abreu, published by C&T publishing, £17.99

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KIDS

Ruffled empire

PEASANT TOP This gorgeous top features easy elastic casing on the arms and neckline and is the perfect stash buster.

Use contrasting panels for the panels and ruffles Project MARY ABREU

Mary

1

Selvage edges

Selvage edge

Fold

Short sleeve

Fold

HOW TO MAKE: Match the front upper sleeve edge of one sleeve to the upper arm edge of the bodice front, right sides together. Pin and sew with ½˝ seam allowance. Repeat for second sleeve to the other side of the front. Finish the seams and press towards the bodice.

Fold

FABRIC TYPES: Light or medium-weight cotton, gingham, linen or chambray

Bodice back

Long sleeve

LOWER PANEL AND RUFFLE CUTTING MEASUREMENTS Size

2

3

4

5

6

Lower Panel, cut 2

6x28½”

6¼x29”

6½x29¾”

6¾x30⅜”

6¾x31⅛”

Ruffle, cut 4

4x25”

4x25½”

4x26”

4x26⅝”

4x27⅜”

SIZING

NOTE: All lower panel and ruffle cutting dimensions are listed length x width Cut an 18˝-long by ¼˝-wide piece of elastic to feed through the neckline casing Cut 2 lengths of elastic ½˝ smaller than your child’s upper arm or wrist measurement for the sleeves

Bodice front

Fold

CUTTING: Lay out and cut the Front and Back Bodice pattern on the folds before cutting the sleeves and rectangles for the Lower Panel and Ruffles. Mark the sleeve front and back

Selvage edge

MATERIALS: •• ⅓ yard fabric for bodice front & back •• ⅓ yard fabric (short sleeves) or ⅝ yard (long sleeves) •• ½ yard fabric for lower panel •• ⅝ yard fabric for ruffle •• 1 yard ¼˝-wide elastic for neckline & sleeves •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

Selvage edges

LAYPLANS

SKILL LEVEL:

Size

2

3

4

5

6

Chest

20½”

21½”

22½”

23½”

24½”

Waist

20”

21”

21”

21½”

22”

Hip

20¾”

21¾”

23½”

24½”

25½”

2

Match the back upper edge of one sleeve to the upper arm edge of the bodice back with right sides together. Pin and sew. Repeat with the second sleeve.

3

Fold the neckline edge ¼˝ to the wrong side of the top and press.

Fold an additional ½˝ and press again.

4

Starting in the middle of the bodice back, stitch close to the lower folded edge all the way around the neckline, leaving a 2˝ gap through which you’ll later feed the elastic. Make sure you

back-stitch two or three stitches at the beginning and end to keep the neckline casing from pulling open.

5

Match the underarm sleeve edges with the front and back bodice side edges, right sides together. Pin and sew.

Finish the seam and press it toward the garment back. Repeat with the second sleeve. (See Pic A.)

6

Fold over the hem of one sleeve ¼˝ to the wrong side of the fabric, then fold an additional 1˝ and press well.

Repeat with the second sleeve.

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7

Top-stitch close to the lower folded sleeve edge, all the way around, leaving a 1˝ gap near the seam through which you can feed the elastic. Sew another row of stitches ½˝ from the first, closer to the sleeve hem but do not leave a gap. Repeat with the second sleeve. Set aside. (See Pic B.)

8

Place the two lower panels right sides together and match the side seams. Sew, finish the seams and press. Set aside.

9

Place two of the four ruffle strips right sides together and match a short side seam. Repeat with the other two ruffle strips until you have a continuous circle.

Sew and finish the seams, and press toward the ruffle back.

10

Fold ¼˝ of the lower edge of the ruffle toward the wrong side of the fabric, then press and fold another ¼˝.

Stitch all the way around the bottom of the ruffle close to the inner folded edge.

11

Sew gathering stitches to the ruffle’s top edge. Pin the ruffle’s gathered edge to the bottom edge of the lower

panels, right sides together. Gather to fit, then pin and sew using a ½˝ seam allowance. (See Pic C.)

12

Finish the seam and press it up toward the bodice. Top-stitch right above the seam along the bottom edge of the bodice to hold the seam allowances in place.

“THIS TOP HAS A LITTLE EXTRA SWING, COURTESY OF THE GATHERED PANEL THAT ATTACHES TO THE EMPIRE BODICE, MAKING IT GREAT FOR ACTIVE DAYS“

13

Sew gathering stitches to the top edge of the lower panels.

Pin the gathered edge to the lower edge of the bodice top, right sides together. Gather to fit, then pin and sew using a ½˝ seam allowance.

14

Finish the seam and press toward the bodice top. Top-stitch right above the seam along the bottom edge of the bodice top to hold the seam allowances in place.

15

. Use a bodkin or safety pin to feed the ¼˝ elastic through the neckline.

Overlap the elastic ends by approximately ½” and use a zigzag stitch to secure them.

Stitch the gap in the neckline casing to close it. Repeat with each sleeve.

Sam TRANSFORM YOUR TOP INTO A DRESS

To make a dress instead of a top, extend the length of the Front and Back Lower Panel pattern pieces. Simply measure the child from under the arm to the knee. Compare the measurement to the length of the Lower Panel pattern pieces.

Add the difference to the length of the panels. Remember your dress will end up slightly longer because of the ruffle that you will add to the bottom

B

A

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What you’ve been

sewing...

We love seeing what you’ve been working on. Each month’s star make will receive a bundle of fabric, handpicked by Mark at Girl Charlee

Simona Giurgiuveanu sewed a gorgeous version of our Kwik Sew pyjamas from issue 10. We love the colour-pop pocket!

£25 WIN A

FABRIC BUNDLE FROM

STAR MAKE

Wow! Look at Hila's amazing version of our issue 8 Simple Sew Cocoon dress. So classy!

xt puts a big This make by Jane He re at Sew he es fac r smile on ou ersible sun rev r ou is s Thi .

Now HQ 9. hat pattern from issue See our very own Jamie Kemp take part in the selfcreated Instagram #ohsienna challenge

“Here is my version of the Simple Sew Cocoon dress that was in issue 8.

It's so comfortable and perfect for warm weather!”

Alex Howard 73

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GET IN TOUCH! Eleanor Thomson has made our Simple Sew UK Sienna pattern from issue 10 already! How beautiful is her batik print fabric?

Leanne

Email leanne.brocklehurst @practicalpublishing.co.uk Use #sewthelove or tag us on Instagram at sewnowmag Post to www.facebook.com/ sewnowmag

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FREE PATTERN SKILLS TUTORIAL

Alison

GET THE LOOK

Summer floral-print cotton lawn dress fabric A light cotton lawn fabric using fine, high-count yarn, resulting in a silky smooth feel £14.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

The perfect

PLEATED SLEEVE

Make a dramatic statement by sewing a super-neat pleated sleeve 74

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TUTORIAL

T

he M7542 pattern, with its many sleeve variations, is one I’ve had made up in class recently. I’d like to concentrate here on the pleated sleeve version – possibly the trickiest of the sleeve options – as to achieve perfect pleats takes careful preparation. Choose your fabric carefully; it needs to crease when pleated. A crisp cotton or fine linen would be perfect – I’m using cotton lawn.

1

Take care when cutting the pleated section of the sleeve. Make sure the pattern piece is on the straight grain – if it's slightly off grain the pleats will not go together or hang properly.

2

It's now time to pattern-mark the pleats.

Everyone has their favourite method of pattern marking, but for these sleeves accuracy is everything and I favour good old-fashioned tailor’s tacks. To make the tailor’s tack, go through the dot on the pattern piece once with double thread from north to south and then again from east to west, leave long tails and a long loop. This makes an X on the fabric so that the centre of it is between the four threads. Cut through the loop so that you can remove your pattern without damaging it. Carefully separate the two layers of fabric, snipping through the threads between the layers. (See pics A and B.)

A

Once you have completed all the markings and removed the pattern piece, sew the seam on the short end of the strip.

Press open. There is no need to neaten the edge as it will be completely enclosed.

Fold the pleated section in half lengthwise WS to WS and press a sharp crease at the folded edge. Make sure the tailor’s tacks are matching at the raw edge side, red to red and orange to orange thread, and pin. (See pics C and D.)

“USE DIFFERENT COLOURED THREAD FOR THE DOTS. I’VE USED RED FOR THE SMALL DOTS AND ORANGE FOR THE LARGE“

4

To make the pleats, fold the fabric vertically so that the four red dots meet on top of the two orange dots to make the pleats. Pin the pleats in place carefully, making sure the raw edges stay together. After making all the pleats, tack by hand or machine along the raw edges to hold them in place. Press the pleats in place if you wish using a seam roll inside the cuff to lift it off the ironing board.

(See pics E, F and G.)

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E

H

3

Take the sleeve and sew the side seam together. With the WS of the upper sleeve facing out, place the pleats inside the upper sleeve so the raw edge of the lower sleeve and the top edge of the match. Pin and sew in place, using the free arm of your machine. Once you are happy with the sleeve and the pleated cuff, zigzag-stitch or overlock the raw edges.

(See pics H and I.)

6

Next is setting in the sleeve, which can be a tricky skill to master. Start by inserting two rows of long machine stitches between the notches, around the sleeve head. Make sure the two rows of stitches are inside the seam allowance, otherwise they may show and then need removing which could damage the fabric.

Place the sleeve to the armhole, working with the sleeve uppermost. Match at the underarm seam, at the notches and at the sleeve head/shoulder. Pull up the long stitches carefully to just take up the extra fullness. Smooth this fullness out over your thumb. Work the fabric carefully until it’s wrinkle free on the stitching line, then pin. All the pins should be on the sleeve side, not the bodice side. Machine again from the sleeve side, but this time without using the free arm as this stretches the fabric. (See pics J and K.)

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In the

DOG HOUSE

DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Pamper your pooch and create its own little padded house and pet mat with pretty paw appliquĂŠ using Butterick 5867 Photographer RENATA STONYTE Model OSCAR

This pretty little house has been reproduced from Butterick 5867, which also includes a carry bag, hanging toy organiser and soft toy bone. It is just one of many patterns in the Butterick range; visit www.sewdirect.com to see more and buy the full-size pattern

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HOME SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1m 140-150cm-wide fabric •• 60cm 140-150cm-wide fabric, or 1.20m 115cm-wide fabric (Fabric 1) •• 1m 115cm-wide lining fabric (contrast Fabric 2) •• 60cm 140-150cm-wide fabric for mat (contrast Fabric 3) •• 2.10m 2.5cm-thick Pellon Flex-Foam fusible wadding •• 18x13cm clear vinyl •• 70cm 13mm-wide double-fold bias tape •• 1.2m 2cm-wide Velcro •• 11cm square felt for appliqué (optional) •• 11cm square paper-backed fusible webbing for appliqué •• pattern paper •• free templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk FINISHED SIZE: 49x41cm FABRIC TYPES: Medium to heavy woven fabric such as home decorating fabric, canvas, denim and twill NOTES: Seam allowance is 15mm unless stated Transfer all markings from pattern pieces onto fabric Have plenty of space around your machine when sewing

PREPARE PATTERN AND FABRIC: Create templates from the pattern paper as follows: Roof: 57x53cm rectangle. Draw a grain line parallel to the shorter side.

Fold the paper in half with short sides together and crease. Open out and mark the crease as the stitching line.

On the right-hand side of the pattern piece, mark placement lines for Velcro 4cm from the top and bottom edges, 7cm in from the sides and 5cm from the sides and top and bottom. Cut two roofs from Fabric 1.

Bottom and sides: 46x90cm rectangle.

Draw a grain line parallel to the long edge.

Mark stitching lines from top to bottom of short edges 28.5cm from the sides. On the right-hand side of the pattern piece, draw a placement line 4cm from the right edge and 2cm from the top and bottom. Cut 1 bottom section from main fabric and another from Fabric 2 (lining).

“TRIM THE FOAM TO THE STITCHING LINE OF THE PATTERN TO AVOID BULGING SEAMS. SEW JUST OUTSIDE OF THE FOAM“

Leanne Paw applique: Download and cut in fabric to contrast with base piece House front and back: Download and cut two in main fabric and two in Fabric 2 (lining). Mark cutting lines for door and window on reverse of fabric.

Mat: 46x38cm rectangle. Draw the grain line parallel to the long edge. Mark a cut out for each corner 13mm square. Cut two pieces from Fabric 3.

From the fusible foam, cut: House back and front foam template (download) 2 26x42cm sections each the sides 52x48cm piece for the top/roof 33x41cm piece for the mat

Tabs: 7x4.5cm rectangle. Mark a fold line down the centre from the top to bottom (short side). Cut four from main fabric.

HOW TO MAKE: For the front, cut one front/back section along the cuttings lines for the opening.

For the front lining (Fabric 2), cut an opening

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in one contrasting fabric front and back in the same manner. (See Pic A.)

2

With right sides together, pin the front lining to the front, ensuring edges are even. Stitch along the centre stitching lines around the opening, pivoting at the small circles. Clip to small circles. (See Pic B.)

3

Turn right side out, press and then edge-stitch around the opening edge.

Why not add a window for your dog's name?

Cut a 15x10cm clear vinyl rectangle

78

4

Cut the opening out of the front foam as before, following the cutting lines and cutting up the centre front to the base of the opening. Place front foam between the front and lining and then baste the raw edges of the fabric together, keeping the foam free. (See Pic C.)

5

Place foam back between back and back lining and baste the raw edges of fabric together, keeping the foam free as before. Turn in the seam allowance on the upper edge of the front and back sections, folding in the fullness at the corners. Press and baste in place. (See Pic D.)

6

Cut two 22cm-long sections from the soft section of Velcro. On the wrong side, pin one to the upper edge of the front left side between the square markings, placing the Velcro 3mm from the basted/pressed edge. Stitch along the long edge of the

Velcro, continuing down to the end of the sloped section. Pin and stitch the remaining Velcro section to the upper edge of the back in the same manner. (See Pic E.)

7

Fold each tab rectangle along the fold line with right sides together. Stitch sides in a 6mm seam. Turn right side out and press. Turn 6mm on the upper edge of each tab to the inside and press. Baste the pressed edges together.

8

Cut four 2.5cm-long sections from the soft section of Velcro. Centre the Velcro over each tab section and stitch in place.

9

Pin one tab section, Velcro side up, to the upper edge of the front and back sections between the two small circles as shown. Stitch close to the upper edge of the tab. Note that the remaining tab

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HOME sections will be used on the roof. (See Pic F.)

GET THE LOOK

10

For the bottom and side sections, cut a 42cm-long section of soft and stiff Velcro. On the outside, centre the stiff section of Velcro on the placement lines of the bottom lining and stitch in place. (The soft section of Velcro will be used for the top/roof.) Cut two 2.5cm-long sections from stiff Velcro and centre on the bottom of the lining 2cm up and 2cm in from the bottom corners. (See Pic G.)

11

Pin the bottom lining to the bottom main fabric with right sides together and stitch short ends.

Turn right side out. Edge-stitch the end by stitching close to the finished edge or seams.

12

Stitch along the stitching lines on the bottom and place the side foam sections between the bottom and bottom lining. Base the raw edges together, keeping the foam free. (See Pic H.)

13

With right sides together, pin the bottom to the sides and lower edge of the front and back, pivoting at the corners. Turn right side out and press. (See Pic I.)

14

For the roof cut two 22cm-long sections from stiff Velcro. For the roof lining, on the outside, place the Velcro sections within placement lines on one side top and bottom as shown. Stitch close to the long edges. (See Pic J.)

15

Place the soft section of Velcro cut in Step 12 down the side, 5cm from the edge as shown. Stitch in place.

16

Cut two more 2.5cm-long sections from stiff Velcro. Position them 7cm from the sides and 4cm from top/bottom in the corners on opposite (left) side and stitch in place. (See Pic K.)

17

Place the upper edge of the remaining tab sections in the left-hand side corners 5cm from top and side edges as shown. Stitch close to the upper edge of the tabs. (See Pic L.)

18

Stitch the roof main fabric to the roof lining with right sides

The Crafty Spot Pale Blue Poplin Prints A simple yet lovely 112cm-wide fabric in pale blue high-quality cotton perfect for quilting, craft and dressmaking, approximately 121gsm in weight £6.95 per metre

together, leaving an opening in one side of approximately 20cm. Turn right side out, tuck the remaining seam allowance inside and press. Insert the roof foam inside between the lining and main fabric and sew the opening to close. Stitch the top along the stitching line through all thicknesses. (See Pic M.)

19 20

Place the roof over the front, back and sides and Velcro them in place.

For the mat, using paper-backed fusible webbing and fabric remnant or felt, prepare and apply the paw appliqué to the corner of one mat section, stitching around the edges to anchor it permanently in place.

Here Boy Poplin Prints This fun, colourful 112cm-wide dog print is a great choice for homewares or quirky dressmaking, approximately 121gsm in weight £6.95 per metre

21

Stitch the mat sections right sides together along the sides, leaving an opening in one side of approximately 20cm.

Stitch the corners by folding each corner of the mat, matching the seams and stitching across to make small box corners. Turn right side out and press. Insert the mat foam inside the mat and sew opening. Place the mat inside the house. (See Pic N.)

Union Superb 157cm-wide lightweight cotton drill mustard trousering fabric £6.50 per metre All available at www.croftmill.co.uk

22

Encase the vinyl window edges with bias tape with the narrower side of the tape on the outside and starting at one corner. Fold in the fullness at the corners, turning under one end under and overlapping the remaining end at the lower corner. Stitch close to the inner edge of tape on the narrow side. (See Pic O.)

23

Centre the window within the placement lines on the front above the opening and stitch close to the sides and lower edge of the window.

Pellon FF78F1 Flex-Foam fusible wadding £6.85 per metre www.u-handbag.com

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Animal-print tunic £28, www.cottonedits.com

G E T

T H E

L O O K

ANIMALS on parade Make a quirky version of our ruffle top with this wild fabric!

Papegojnypou fabric £6.26 per metre, www.justfabrics.co.uk

Tropical Pink Flamingo Green Print £4.50 per metre, www.etsy.com

Blush Giraffe fabric, £8.40 per metre, www.etsystudio.com

Marson Amy Elephants £17 per metre, www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk

Robert Kaufman Totally Tropical Turtles Batik £7.98 per yard, www.etsy.com

Green French Bull Dogs in Specks £8 per metre, www.fabricsgalore.co.uk

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Patchwork | Quilting | AppliquĂŠ | Fabric

If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps.

ISSUE 39 ON SALE NOW!

Snazzy work tote!

Your fabulous FREE GIFT this issue is a pack of half-hexagon paper templates plus an exclusive project book

Sun sea sky quilt

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Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/qn39

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INSPIRATION

Team talk

Editorial Assistant

What’s on the Sew Now team’s radar this month and what’s inspiring us to get sewing!

IF I DIDN’T WORK FOR SEW NOW…

Playsuit £30, www.riverisland.com

Leanne

FAVOURITE SUMMER FASHION TREND

Deputy Editor

Playsuits! It’s like wearing a dress you can cross your legs in, which for someone as tomboyish as me is a Godsend! I recently bought a gorgeous floral off-theshoulder playsuit and I feel so confident and sassy in it, it’s amazing!

I would be miserable! Well obviously… but I’ve always liked the idea of running a cattery. I can’t keep a cat in my little flat, so the thought of looking after lots and lots of kitties does make me quite excited.

Essentially you’re being paid to stroke cats all day so what’s not to like? These are my two family cats, Tiggy and Spider, chilling out while I catch up on some stitching.

Bethany FAVOURITE UPCYCLE PROJECT

Editor

An easy way to upcycle is by adding a motif to an existing or premade garment. I’ve had a pair of these floral folk sew-on motifs for a while and when I came across this lightweight cotton top in M&S I knew the two would work together perfectly. It’s an easy look to achieve for a fraction of the price!

Sam

Seamstress

Curve bra £24, www.figleaves.co.uk

Jeanette

Jo

FITTING ADVICE

My one top tip for good fitting is to get the foundations right!

There is no point spending time and money making a dress that cannot look its best over a bra that doesn’t fit correctly, or knickers that are too tight or too saggy!

Spend time considering the underwear that you will be wearing with each garment you make, and fit over that same underwear!

Stylist

FAVOURITE PART OF MY JOB

Figleaves high-waisted brief £22, www.figleaves.co.uk

My favourite part has to be getting to meet different people each day. I could be working with some amazing children one day, and models from all over the world the next. I love talking to people and finding out about different cultures. I am so lucky to love what I do.

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DOWNLOAD YOUR

FREE TEMPLATE

Sew Caroline Weekend Style is published by Fons & Porter, £18.99

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ACCESSORY

The Traveller’s TOTE & BACKPACK This versatile bag can be worn across the body, as a shoulder bag or as a backpack Project ALICE CAROLINE

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1½ yards 40”-wide heavy fusible interfacing¼ yard x 20”-wide one-sided fusible interfacing •• adjustable shoulder strap with 2 swivel hooks •• 20" zip •• magnetic snap set •• 5½" D-rings •• safety pin •• Wonder Clips •• free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

FABRIC TYPES: For the main fabric, choose a heavyweight fabric such as canvas, denim, duck cloth, or twill. For the lining fabric, choose a light to medium-weight woven fabric

2 3"-square pieces for zipper tabs 3 2x3" pieces for D-ring loops 2 2½x12" pieces for bottom D-ring loops 7x16" piece for front pocket Traveller’s Tote/Backpack pattern piece

CUTTING: From the main fabric, cut: 2 11x23" pieces for bottom of bag, front and back 2 4x23" pieces for top of bag, front and back 2 17½x3" pieces for zipper casing

From the lining fabric, cut: 2 11x23" pieces for bottom of bag, front and back 2 4x23" pieces for top of bag, front and back 7x16" piece for front pocket Traveller’s Tote/Backpack pattern piece From the heavy fusible Interfacing, cut: 2 11x23" pieces 2 4x23" pieces 2 17½x1½" pieces Traveller’s Tote/Backpack pattern piece

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS Main fabric

Lining fabric

44”-wide fabric

1¼ yards

1⅛ yards

54”-wide fabric

1¼ yards

⅞ yard

Fold WS

RS

RS

WS

WS

WS

Fold

Fold

WS

WS

RS WS

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RS

Fold

B

C

Fold 1”

Fold

Back RS

Back WS

1” Fold

Back RS

4 1/2”

D

E

4 1/2”

F

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From the one-sided fusible interfacing, cut: 4½x16½" piece HOW TO MAKE: Add heavy interfacing to the main fabrics.

For the two 17½x3" pieces, add interfacing to one long edge only.

1

2

Fold the three 2x3" and the two 2½x12" main fabric strips in half lengthwise with right sides together. Sew along the long edges using ¼" seam allowances. (See Pic A.) Press. For each piece, attach a safety pin to the edge of one end and use it to turn the piece right side out. Press and set aside.

This versatile bag can be worn three ways

3

Fold two edges of each 3" square with wrong sides together towards the centre at ½". (See Pic B.) Fold the other two edges toward the centre at ½". (See Pic C.) Fold each whole square in half with wrong sides together. (See Pic D.) Set aside for use later; these go on the zipper ends.

toward the wrong sides on the unsewn portion. Press in place and top-stitch along the top only. This is now the pocket piece.

4

6

Find the horizontal centre of the 7x16" accent piece and mark down 3" from the top edge. Insert the female portion of the magnetic snap following the manufacturer’s instructions.

5

Place both 7x16" pocket pieces right sides together and sew around all four sides, leaving approximately 2" unsewn for turning along the top. Flip to the right side and fold the seam allowance in

Using the pattern piece as a guide, mark the place on the flap piece where the magnetic snap will go on the lining piece. Insert the male portion of the magnetic snap on top of your marking, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

7

Align the two flap pieces right sides together and stitch in place around three sides, leaving the top open. Clip the curved

Pocket Flap RS

Pocket Flap RS

Pocket RS

Pocket RS

seams, turn to the right side and press flat.

This is now the pocket flap piece.

8

Lay the back main 11x23" piece right side up. Take the 2½x12" strips from Step 2 (now measuring 1x12"). Fold them in half and insert a D-ring into the loop. Align the two raw edges with the raw edge of the bottom of the main piece, starting 4½" from each side edge. Sew the loops to the main bag back, stopping 1" from the folded edge of the loop. Stitch across the strip and down the other side. (See Pic E.)

9

Take one of the 2x3" pieces from Step 2 (now measuring ¾x3") and fold it in half.

Fold Fold

Fold

WS Fold

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Zipper RS

Fold RS

Zipper Strip RS Zipper Tab RS

RS RS Lining RS

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ACCESSORY “THIS IS A GREAT PROJECT TO IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS AND LEARN TO USE D-RINGS AND FUSIBLE INTERFACING“

Bethany Insert a D-ring into the loop and baste the raw ends of the loop to the top centre of the main bag back.

10

Align the two main back 4x23" pieces right sides together. Sew in place along the top. Press the seam up and topstitch in place. Set aside. This is now the main back piece. (See Pic F.)

11

Align the pocket piece in the centre of the front main 11x23" piece 4" from the bottom. Edge-stitch the pocket in place along the bottom and two sides.

12

Centre the pocket flap right side up along the top of the 11x23" main front piece. (See Pic G.) Lay the 4x23" main front piece right side down on top of the pocket flap. (See Pic H.) Pin and stitch in place

along the top edge. Press the seam up and top-stitch in place. Set aside. This is now the main front piece.

13

Take the two 17½x3" pieces and fold the short ends of each towards the wrong side at ¼" and press in place. Fold the two long edges toward the wrong side at ¼" and press in place (See Pic I.) Fold them in half with wrong sides together so the long ends meet. (See Pic J.) Centre the zipper tape along the folded edges, pin and stitch in place using a zipper foot. Take the two pieces from Step 3 and place them over the ends of the zipper tape.

Stitch them in place along the sandwiched ends. (See Pic K.)

bag and aligning the side seam with the bottom seam. Stitch a straight line parallel to 2" from the corner. Repeat for the other corners (bag front and lining).

Trim the seam allowances to ¼". (See pics N and O.)

17

Press ½" towards the wrong side on both the lining and the bag front along the top edge. The bag front should be right side out and the bag lining should be wrong-side out.

(See Pic P.)

18

Thread each of the two remaining rectangles from Step 2 through a D-ring and baste the ends together.

14

19

15

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Centre the zipper with the right side up along the top of one of the 11x3" lining pieces. (See Pic L.) Lay the 4x23" lining piece right side down on top of the zipper and front lining piece, matching raw edges. Pin and stitch in place. Repeat for the other side of the zipper and other two lining pieces. Set aside. These are now the front and back lining pieces. (See Pic M.) Align the front and back main pieces together with right sides facing. Sew along all edges but the top. Repeat for the front and back lining pieces. These will now be referred to as ‘bag front’ and ‘lining’.

16

Create gussets in each corner by pinching the corner of the

Insert the one-sided fusible interfacing inside the bag front and place along the bottom. Place the bag lining inside the bag front, sandwiching the fusible and aligning the side seams. Hold in place with Wonder Clips. At each of the side seams, insert the unfinished edge of one of the D-ring loops about ½". Top-stitch around the top of the bag at ¼", making sure to secure the D-ring loops at each of the side seams.

(See Pic Q.) To wear it as a tote bag, hook the adjustable strap to the two rings at the side seams. To wear it as a backpack, hook the adjustable strap to the two D-rings at the base of the bag back and through the loop at the centre.

(See Pic R.)

Front WS

Lining WS

Front WS Lining RS

Back WS

Back WS

M

N

Fold

O

Fold

Bag Lining WS

P

2”

Fold

Bag Front RS

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Back RS

R

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INSPIRATION PERSONAL TOUCH

Looking for a thoughtful gift for a friend or family member?

Put their name in lights with one of these striking initial necklaces. Made from sterling silver, 9ct rose gold or yellow gold plated, with the option to have it hand engraved, we're sure it'll go down a treat for special occasions. £25.99 from www.gettingpersonal.co.uk

SEWING ROOM SAVIOUR

How sweet are these trinket dishes?

They'd make perfect little pin holders, or scissor trays for the sewing room too! £9.50 from www.oliverbonas.com

AND ANOTHER THING...

Use the humble ampersand alongside a pair of initials for a sweet romantic message or simply let it stand alone, ironed onto a bag or shirt pocket with one of these Jennie Maizels iron-on patches. £2 each from www.hobbycraft.co.uk

Just my ALL THAT GLITTERS

Make your mark by using lettering to personalise your clothes and home

Introduce a little sparkle and dress up your jackets and jumpers with a large sequin appliqué patch. Perfect for adult and kids makes! £9.99 for pack of 10 from www.interchainge1.etsy.com

HOME SWEET HOME

Spell out a word or two or simply mark your territory with a chunky wooden centrepiece across the fireplace. £12 from www.george.com

EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE

Take this trend indoors with these colourful painted ceramic door hooks. Give everyone their own and you'll never lose track of scarves and coats again. £5.95 from www.dotcomgiftshop.com

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SEWING

WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you!

SEW COOL AND CRAFTY Birmingham

15TH AUGUST Pencil case make day

19TH AUGUST Summer dress workshop

The shop sells luxurious dressmaking fabric and quality haberdashery items. It also runs friendly weekly sewing circle sessions and workshops for all abilities in its bright and fully equipped sewing studio. www.sewcoolandcrafty.co.uk

Come and make your own pencil case for school!

Includes choice of materials and refreshments.

Cost: £15

Beginners – come and create your own stretch summer dress. Includes pattern, choice of stretch fabric and refreshments.

Cost: £60

16TH AUGUST School/book bag make day Make your own unique school bag.

Includes choice of materials and refreshments.

Cost: £30

22ND AUGUST Wrap skirt workshop Beginners – choose from denim, linen or cotton to create your perfect wrap skirt. Includes pattern, choice of fabric and refreshments.

Cost: £45

RACHEL’S TEXTILES STUDIO St Helier, Jersey Rachel’s has excellent facilities with a large cutting table. There’s a fabulous shop providing a huge supply of haberdashery, all the sewing essentials and some quirky bits and pieces too. www.rachelstextilesstudio.com

14TH OR 28TH AUGUST Making fabric pictures You can complete a postcardsize picture or start a bigger project to finish at home. Use the embellisher, try freemachine embroidery and/or hand-stitch to personalise your design. Includes refreshments and the use of the equipment and materials.

Cost: £42

20TH AUGUST Little fabric storage boxes Create a small stiffened, lined container with a square bottom and embellish with machining or appliqué to make it in your

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own. Competence on the machine is essential Includes refreshments and the use of the equipment and materials Cost: £34

17TH, 24TH, 31ST AUGUST Summer evening classes Come in to work on your own projects and use the Janome machines with help on hand. You will need to provide your own materials but can buy anything in store. Includes refreshments and the use of the equipment and materials.

Cost: £32

24TH AUGUST Make a quilted potholder Use lovely fabric and try out quilting to make a square or round potholder to cheer up the kitchen. Includes refreshments and the use of the equipment and materials.

Cost: £42

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WORKSHOPS

COTTON REEL STUDIO Stockton-on-Tees Cotton Reel is proud to be working with Janome and all workshops are on a one-to-one basis. The workshops are suitable for absolute beginners and those with more experience, and can be tailored to suit your requirements.

Cotton Reel also stocks a good selection of fabric. www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk

26TH AUGUST Absolute beginners This workshop is suitable for someone who has never used a sewing machine before. You will learn how to set up and use a sewing machine and make at least one project to take home with you. All tools and materials are provided.

Cost: £49

9TH SEPTEMBER Beginner dressmaking – Make a Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dungaree dress SEW EASY BRISTOL St. George, Bristol With a strong focus on sewing and fashion, Sew Easy Bristol is the perfect place to start your sewing journey or learn a new skill with its various courses. Prices and booking information for these workshops can be found at www.seweasybristol.com

24TH AUGUST Pattern cutting – beginners This is the first step towards designing your own garments and drafting your patterns.

Once you have mastered the basic techniques you will be well on your way to creating wonderful designs!

5TH SEPTEMBER Pattern cutting – intermediate.

Draft your own bodice block The bodice block is a more complex shape to draft and fit, and I will explain some of the most common fitting problems and how to remedy them to produce a perfect fit. Once you have mastered basic pattern cutting techniques, you will be well on your way to creating those wonderful designs that you have always dreamed of!

12TH SEPTEMBER Pattern cutting – trousers.

Draft your own trouser block Have you ever wanted to a perfectly fitting pair of trousers?

Come along and draft a trouser block to fit your own body shape, then you can design a pattern for any style of trousers with the perfect fit!

This workshop is suitable for someone who has previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making simple projects (cushions and tote bags etc). You will learn how to read a pattern, cut and stabilise fabric and sew buttonholes. You will need to bring fabric and notions, only the pattern and use of tools and equipment is included in the price.

Cost: £79

26RD SEPTEMBER Introduction to jersey fabric – Make a Tilly and the Buttons Coco dress or top This workshop explains the different types of jersey and how to work with them without the need for equipment such as overlockers. The workshop is suitable for someone who has some previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making some simple projects. You will learn how to read a pattern, cut and work with jersey fabric. You will need to bring fabric and notions, only the pattern and use of tools and equipment is included in the price.

Cost: £79

30TH AUGUST Corset making This exciting two-day course will introduce you to the fascinating world of corsets.

You will learn how to make a fabulous multi-layered lined corset that includes spiral steel boning, front fastening busk and back lacing with handinserted grommets. Suitable for those with some experience of garment making.

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THE SEWING SHOP BRISTOL

CHEAM

CLITHEROE

DUMFRIES Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

Classes for all abilities including: • Pattern cutting • Bra or corset making • Dressmaking • Private tuition also available Take a look at my website for my wide range of subjects

www.seweasybristol.com 07946176982 info@seweasybristol.com www.facebook.com/SewEasyBristol

HAMPSHIRE

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ

16 Upper Mulgrave Road, Cheam, SM2 7AZ info@stitcheshaberdashery.co.uk Tel: 0208 661 6040

01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com

www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

Fabrics & Haberdashery Workshops & Parties Stockists of Kaufman, Dashwood, Windham, Sevenberry, & more...

HAMPSHIRE

LEICESTERSHIRE

Reads of Winchester

Chorlton Crafts & Gifts

Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

NOTTINGHAM

CRESSWELL SEWING MACHINE CO.

Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS

for s e w i n g w o r k s h o p s , fabrics & haberdashery 116 Castle Street, Hinckley, Leicestershire , LE10 1DD 0 1 4 5 5 6 9 8 0 3 4 w w w. t h e s e w i n g c a f e . c o . u k

REDDITCH

SCOTLAND

www.sew-busy.co.uk

INKBERROW DESIGN CENTRE

0115 926 7572 83 Mansfield Road, Daybrook, Nottingham, NG5 6BH

info@inkberrowdesigncentre.co.uk 01527 69100

STANSTED ESSEX

TEWKSBURY

Sewing Classes for all 11 Brook Rd Stansted CM24 8BB www.teachmetosew.co.uk tel. 07752209936

Visit us at...

Tel: 01252 444220

Open 9.30am-4pm Monday to Friday.

10am-1pm Saturday.

Teach Me to Sew

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SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

• City & Guilds Fashion College • Beginners Dress Making Classes • Pattern Cutting Classes • Tailoring Classes • Corsetry Classes • Theatre Costume • Workshops specialising in the Golden Rule Lutterloh System • Creative Sewing Workshops

Sewing machine sales, service, and parts. Repair service offered for most machines.

MANCHESTER

Next door to Costa Coffee, The Square, Wilbraham Road, Chorlton, Manchester, M21 9AQ.

• Card Making Supplies • Knitting Yarns • haberdashery • cake making supplies Open: Mon - Sat 9.30am–5.30pm Telephone: 07908371301

SHEFFIELD

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

The Old Needleworks, Britten Street, Redditch Worcs, B97 6HD

www.handmadehappyhare.com

ONLINE ONLY

Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself

www.mollyfelicitydesigns.com

Y ST Y L E , YO U R WA S E W I N G YO U R

To advertise in Sew Now call Noune on 0161 474 6997

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FEATURE

BASIC STITCHES Whether you’re an established sewist or just starting out, here’s a handy guide to the basics LENGTH AND WIDTH

Stitch length controls the speed of the feed dog and is measured in millimetres from 0 to 4 (sometimes up to 6 for high-end machines).

Higher numbers mean the feed dog moves faster in relation to the needle and the stitches are longer. Stitch width controls how far away from the centre the needle can swing. A straight stitch obviously has a width of 0mm, while a zigzag stitch can be as narrow as 1mm or as wide as 4mm.

Standard buttonhole

zig and zag is made of three straight stitches. It is used to attach elastic and stitch on knit fabric. Since the stitches are smaller than a standard zigzag, this means there is less chance of snagging and the stitch has lots of stretch.

STRETCH STRAIGHT

This is a straight stitch with one stitch forwards, one back and one forwards and is strong due to the repeated stitching. It’s often used for high-stress seams such as crotch seams, but can also be used for knits as it has built-in stretch because the feed dog stretches the fabric slightly.

OVERCASTING

Knit buttonhole

The overcast stitch resembles an overlocker or serger stitch and uses both zigzag and straight stitches. It is used to finish the raw edges of fabric to prevent fraying.

Keyhole buttonhole

Note that mechanical machines can only do regular buttonholes Left: straight stitch, right: zigzag stitch

STRAIGHT STITCH

You will use this for 99% of your sewing. It is the basic construction stitch to connect one fabric to another. Use a 2.5mm length for basic sewing, 4mm or longer for tacking, 3mm for topstitching and 1.5-2mm for stress points such as corners and purse straps.

Straight stitches do not stretch so do not use them for stretch knits.

ZIGZAG STITCH

a four-step buttonhole, while computerised machines can sew an automatic or one-step buttonhole. Regular buttonholes are standard and can be used on all types of fabric and for all types of buttons. Keyhole buttonholes have a rounded end that opens wider for ball-type buttons. Knit buttonholes have a more defined zigzag stitch to allow for more stretch.

TRICOT/ELASTIC STITCH

This stitch is also called the multi-stitch zigzag and is a zigzag stitch where each

The zigzag can be used as a decorative topstitch, to finish seam allowances to prevent fabric edges from fraying, to sew on appliqué, stitch monograms and for sewing stretch knits. Use a 2.5mm length and 3.5mm width for basic sewing, 0.5mm length and 4-5mm width for satin-stitching appliqué and embroidery, and a 2.5mm length and 0.5mm width for stretch sewing.

BLIND HEM

The blind hem has several tiny zigzags and then one large zigzag. It is used for hemming and is practically invisible from the right side. Use your manual instructions to lay up fabric correctly.

Taken from Stress-Free Sewing

by Nicole Vasbinder, published by Search Press, RRP £12.99

BUTTONHOLE STITCH

A buttonhole is a box made of tiny zigzag stitches. You can stitch a buttonhole using the zigzag stitch, but it is easier to have a buttonhole stitch. Mechanical machines have

Left: overcasting stitch, right: blind hem stitch

Left: tricot/elastic stitch, right: stretch straight stitch

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Master your

MACHINE Each machine model offers a range of features and functions, but all have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide and you’ll know your way around yours in no time 1

9 THREAD GUIDES Two threads make up each stitch – the top thread and the bobbin thread. The top thread from the spool of cotton passes through the thread guide, which regulates the tension of the thread before it’s fed through the needle.

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SPEED CONTROLLER A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when the pedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.

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REVERSE FUNCTION Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to move backwards across a stitched line. This function is used when securing the threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.

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NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP The needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety of types and sizes to suit your project. The needle is held in place by the clamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and loosening the clamp to access the needle.

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PRESSER FOOT LIFTER For lifting and lowering to hold the fabric in place while you sew.

Release it to remove the fabric from the machine.

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BOBBIN CASE Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, which houses the bobbin. The bobbin is wound with thread and provides the second thread for each stitch.

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FEED DOGS These moving parts lie underneath the needle plate.

With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, these help to move the fabric through the machine.

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NEEDLE PLATE The metal plate directly below the needle and presser foot. The small opening allows the thread from the bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make the stitches. On the plate are guide markings to assist straight sewing and measuring seam allowances.

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PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL Used for releasing/increasing the weight of the foot on the fabric, for example when working appliqué.

You can release the pressure to enable you to turn the fabric smoothly.

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“IF YOU'RE STRUGGLING WITH THE THREADING ON A NEW MACHINE, PRACTISE WITH RED THREAD UNTIL YOU GET THE HANG OF IT”

Jeanette

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TUTORIAL BOBBIN WINDER Winds thread from the cotton spool onto the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the correct tension.

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Trouble with tension?

Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. If these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also check that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make even stitches.

Another good tip is to use the same thread in the machine and the bobbin – even slightly different threads can unbalance the tension

SPOOL HOLDER This pin runs through the centre of a spool of thread, allowing it to feed smoothly through the machine.

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SCREEN Displays the relevant information regarding the stitch style, width and length that has been selected.

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HAND WHEEL Manually operates the mechanics of the machine, moving the needle up and down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer, computerised machines also have a needle up/down button which can be programmed to stay in the down position – ideal for pivoting on corners.

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STITCH SELECTOR Allows you to select from the different stitches on the machine and includes a menu from which you make your selection. The stitch is selected by pressing the relevant button and the number will appear on the screen

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STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH SELECTORS Use to increase or decrease the length or width of your stitch. The shorter the stitch, the more stitches are worked across the line of sewing, making it stronger. The width applies to stitches where the needle moves from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch.

Adjusting the width button will also move the needle position, which is important when sewing in zips and piping etc.

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FREE ARM This is a narrower working space created when the accessory box is removed. This is perfect for sewing smaller items or inserting sleeves.

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ACCESSORY DRAWER Use to store alternative presser feet, spare bobbins and maintenance tools.

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START/STOP BUTTON This allows you to operate the machine without the foot pedal.

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THREAD CUT BUTTON This will cut the threads after sewing and is highlighted in the screen with the thread cutter mark.

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IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SEE PAGE 52 FOR DETAILS OF HOW TO SUBSCRIBE

ONLY

£5.99 Packed with great makes and skills

FREE

The perfect dress to take you into autumn

PATTERN

IN UK S I Z ES 6 -2 2

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Bright star baby romper

Chinelo Bally hi-lo top

School book bag

Autumnal acorn garland Upcycled chevron cushion

ISSUE 12 ON SALE 24th AUGUST All contents subject to change

EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Leanne Brocklehurst Art Editors Craig Chubb, Simon Kay , Sher Ree Tai Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Contributors Mary Abreu, Lucy Auden, Jeanette Archer, Juliet Bawden, Carissa Browning, Alice Caroline, The Fold Line, Claire Garside, Mollie Johanson, Jamie Kemp, Angeline Murphy, Linda Robertus, Amanda Russell, Alison Smith ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription enquiries Tel: 01858 438899 Email: practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk DISTRIBUTION Craft Store Distribution amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk NEWSTRADE COMAG Magazine Distribution CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material Š Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints.

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BACK-PAGE BLOGGER

Sophia's style is fun and colourful

5 minutes with...

Sophia Palmer Sophia Palmer, owner of handmade gift haven Jessalli, chatted to us about her seamstress roots and what inspires her in her work Hi there! How are you today and what’s on your sewing table?

Hi! I’m fabulous thank you. On my sewing table right now is an Etta dress from Tilly and the Buttons in a really bold fabric. And I also have a Mélilot shirt from Deer&Doe planned that I haven’t been able to start yet.

Are you a big pattern house girl, an indie girl or a mix of both?

Definitely indie. I love By Hand London, Tilly and the Buttons and Megan Neilsen.

Can you share with us your favourite fabric for autumn/winter?

I’d love to make a pea coat from this pink How would you describe your style? wool (right) from Minerva Crafts. It’s a Colourful and fun; I’m really drawn to bold dream of mine to make a colourful cosy prints and bright fabric. The items I usually winter coat, maybe with some huge orange make are quite playful and easily customised. buttons on the front!

Sophia's fabulous sewing space

Why did you start sewing?

What’s your favourite ready-to-wear brand?

I’m been sewing since I was about five. My I have to say Zara. It makes great, colourful mother and grandmother are both incredible clothes with a mix of pretty and casual seamstresses so it was drummed into me designs. It’s the perfect blend for my style, from a young age. I cannot thank them plus they fit me well! enough for it. It’s why I also teach children – What’s your favourite I’m passionate about colour to wear? ”I’M PASSIONATE ABOUT Pink, all day long! I keeping sewing skills KEEPING SEWING alive in young children cannot get enough and teens.

SKILLS ALIVE IN YOUNG of it.

CHILDREN AND TEENS”

What’s on your to-sew list?

Once I’ve finished my Mélilot shirt I’ve got plans for a Bettine dress (another Tilly and the Buttons pattern) and I want to make some fun palm leaf-print shorts. I always have plenty of ideas and dreams, it’s finding the time to achieve them!

Any skills and techniques that you’re looking to master in the near future?

I really would love to make more feminine, detailed dresses but a little wary of them.

I’ve always wanted to make an elegant ballgown, just to see if I can!

What is your go-to pattern?

I have made multiple items from Tilly and the Buttons. I keep going back to them as they’re so easy to use. I’ve made so many Cleo dresses for myself and for friends I can do it without the instructions.

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What advice would you give to a newbie sewist?

Just start! I find most people are hesitant to get started, but the best way to learn is to make mistakes. Start with a straightforward pattern and some inexpensive fabric. Have a go, read the instructions carefully and see what you can achieve. Then make it again, you’ll be surprised by your second attempt!

Could we have a peep at your sewing space?

Of course, I’m lucky to have a large room in my house I can work from. Although it doesn’t look that large filled with fabric!

Wool-blend heavy coating weight dress fabric £7.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

Perfect fabric for a summer skirt!

Where can we find out more about you?

On my blog www.jessalliblog.com and on my personalised gift website www.jessalli. com. I also share my day-to-day sewing adventures on Instagram Jessalli_Handmade.

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