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sew extras 5 JANOME MACHINES TO WIN F DISCOUNTS F GIFTS F MORE! DECEMBER 2017 ISSUE 105 £5.99

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The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

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Wardrobe Essentials

y s a e n rn a w e S -patte ss no ty dre par

FOR DAY & NIGHT Ageless styles to make and master!

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TAILORED OUTFITS Make a simple dress

SPEEDY SEWING Just 3 pattern pieces!

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Plus! THE NUTCRACKER · DRESSMAKER OF THE YEAR · SEWING MEMORIES

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Hello... December

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You can’t help but love this time of year, simply because of all the festivities that come with it.

Amidst the merriment, the season also calls for a touch of indulgence… and for us stitchers, that means uninterrupted sewing! Finish off any lastmin gifts with our ideas - make a bib or rattle for babies (p74), a toy (p69) or bag for the kids (p75), and a shopper (p60) or oven gloves (p76) for your nearest and dearest. We’ve also got hats for all the family (p51) and a bandana for your dog (p75) – then present them in our stitchy gift wrap (p66).

Once you’re done and dusted, explore your FREE NewLook pattern and stitch up essential wardrobe pieces. You’ll also find a no-pattern dress (p18) and wrap top (p32), then other simple garments like our party skirt (p22) and Liberty blouse (p39). Before you start, sit back and relax as we get behind the scenes of The Nutcracker (p63), or feel inspired to pass on your stitchy skills on p48.

This issue, I’m excited to announce Dressmaker of the Year 2018 has officially launched (p36). We had an amazing response to the first competition, which saw Portia Lawrie crowned earlier this year. With five categories and a fantastic panel of judges who are eager to see your garments, I can’t wait to see the entries myself! Whatever your skill level, give it a go… it couldn’t be easier.

Your votes have been coming in thick and fast to The British Sewing Awards 2017 (p43). Don’t miss your chance to vote at sewmag.co.uk/ awards and you’ll instantly be emailed an exclusive toy project as our way of thanks. Whatever your plans this month, we hope you cherish all of the joy (and mince pies) that the festive season brings!

Happy sewing!

Jenny

Maggie didn’t know what to make of her new best friend

Jenny Ward, Sew editor

free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Claim your BONUS Simplicity pattern (p58) plus your 25% off ALL Fiskars products at Minerva Crafts (p6).

Get your hands on our FREE flowerchild project and pattern when you vote in the British Sewing Awards 2017.

36 sew

Dressmaker of the Year is now open to enter! makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear

Read our round up of Sew Saturday on p28

FIVE STYLES TO STITCH

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

sewmag.co.uk/templates

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

@

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sew December 2017

IN THIS ISSUE...

IN EVERY ISSUE TEA BREAK 03 WELCOME Come say hello to the team!

HO, WHAT & WEAR 06 W Keep up to date with the sewing world

15 YOU! SEW SOCIAL We love what you’ve been making 56 L OVE YOUR MACHINE Our top picks, this month from Brother 64 T HE BOOKSHELF More sewing titles for your library OP OF THE CLASS 87 T Book yourself onto a stitchy workshop or course 89 N EXT MONTH Our January issue’s out on 14th December

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28 EVENT SEW SATURDAY Our highlights of this year’s crafty celebrations!

36 YOU! DRESSMAKER OF THE YEAR Could you be our star for 2018?

90 RED TO TOE How to rock the hottest trend of the season

KIDS

75 DOG BANDANA A sweet neckerchief for your pooch

69 PHOTO GUIDE JOLLY WHALE Make this cutie in just an hour!

HOME

43 VOTE BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017 Cast your vote today!

48 GIVE THE GIFT OF SEWING Encourage others to join the stitchy brigade!

63 XMAS A HARD NUT TO CRACK Behind the scenes of The Nutcracker 72 CONFESSIONS OF A SEWING ADDICT What does designer Corinne Bradd want for Christmas?

75 DRAWSTRING BAG Sew a wintry carrier

74 BABY APRON BIB Quilt an accessory for tiny tots 74 M ASCOT WISHBONE THE RATTLE Stitch our cuddly companion

GIFTS 60 CATH KIDSTON TOTE BAGS Sew stylish shoppers 66 XMAS 8 STITCHY GIFT WRAPS Make your presents look amazing!

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65 XMAS STUART HILLARD How to craft the perfect Christmas day 70 XMAS THE FABRIC EDIT Add a festive touch with cute critters 71 XMAS 4 LAST-MIN WREATHS Whip up amazing decs in no time 76 SUSIE JOHNS’ OVEN MITT Embroider a fun hand protector

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LAST-MIN

GIFT IDEAS!

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DRESSMAKING

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pages of fashion, garments & more!

FREE THIS MONTH...

WIN!

Sew yourself a complete outfit with five great pieces to choose from, including two jacket styles, a waistcoat, dress and trousers!

on page 78

FREEBIES & OFFERS 06 DISCOUNT 25% OFF FISKARS Grab yourself a bargain from Minerva Crafts

IN SIZES

4-26

15 P RIZES SEND IN AND WIN We have prizes galore – just send us snaps of your makes!

30 DISCOUNT 10% OFF KEMPTON JACKET A gift for you from new indie designer Pier&Palace

09 COVER STAR STUNNING SEPARATES Stitch five coordinating garments with your FREE pattern

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43 FREE PATTERN BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017 Vote to get your exclusive project

18 D IY PATTERN EVE DRESS Create a striking lace-panelled number 20 SMOOTH VELVET Our selection of luxe fabrics 22 T WO PIECES DANA SKIRT Sew a simple yet stylish garment

54 GIFT SUBSCRIBE TODAY Get 10m of fabric plus two bonus gifts FREE

25 O FF ON THE RIGHT FOOT Find your feet with our guide

58 FREE SIMPLICITY PATTERNS Choose your favourite from a fab selection

26 P ENNY SHIRT Make an iconic garment to take you from day to night

68 FREE ONE METRE OF FABRIC Claim yours and get sewing

30 INDIE PATTERN NEWS Our top picks this month

78 PRIZES WIN WITH SEW We have more than £1,590 worth of prizes to win!

32 DIY PATTERN ANNETTE WRAP TOP Master sewing with floaty chiffon

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35 STITCH THE LOOK: PONTE ROMA Try these fabulous double knits 38 L AUREN GUTHRIE Stitch an outfit to see you through to 2018 39 MASTERCLASS DOROTHY BLOUSE Learn to sew raglan sleeves and gather elastic

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46 SEWING SOS Expert advice on sewing a winter coat 51 11 SIZES AVIATOR HATS Make cosy hats for adults and kids 59 EXCLUSIVE PATTERN PREVIEW Just some of Simplicity’s latest releases

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84 YOUR SEWING GUIDE Sew like a pro!

FREE NEXT MONTH

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Subscribe

TODAY!

FREE* 10M CHRISTMAS FABRIC BUNDLE PLUS TWO BONUS GIFTS 05

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Stitch essential tops with knit fabric!

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wear

who what

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The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

Treat your ‘elf For easy last-minute festive stitching straight out of Santa’s workshop, this Elves & Friends kit contains festive felt and all the trimmings you need to get stuck in, plus templates and instructions for making ten characters and merry motifs. £4.99, craftstoreuk.com

Colour Me Impressed

Crazy Log Cabin Patchwork Cushion and Runner © Kaffe Fassett Studio

Immerse yourself in a world of vibrancy at Kaffe Fassett’s Colour at Mottisfont exhibition in The National Trust’s historical house and gallery in Hampshire. You can look forward to pools of rich colour in this showcase of the artist’s distinctive quilts, tapestry, knitwear and more, showcasing his passion for all things bold. It runs until 14th January and is included in the admission price of £13.60, or free for National Trust members. Visit kaffefassett.com

That’s a wrap!

Sew Over It has released a brand-new 1940s wrap dress pattern, designed for the modern body, with a flattering A-line skirt and narrow sleeves, both of which have two length options. The wrap-front is structured by the collar and pointed waistband, but still looks feminine thanks to the pretty shoulder pleats and bodice gathers. Your fabric options are versatile – opt for your favourite drapey ones or keep it simple with cotton lawn! Available in sizes 8-20, £14.50, sewoverit.co.uk

Last minute gift ideas We’re enjoying the new range of sheepy sewing-themed mugs, coasters and tote bags by Vanessa Bee Designs, which are all printed in the UK. Any of them would make for a great Secret Santa gift, as each one costs under £6. View the range at vanessabeedesigns.co.uk

Cutting prices Stop hinting about Santa bringing you some new dressmaking shears and get the pair you want right now! Treat yourself (and grab a bargain gift for all of your stitchy friends too) with a sharp 25% discount on all Fiskars products at Minerva Crafts! Visit tinyurl.com/minervafiskars and use the code SEWFISKARS at the checkout.

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*Valid from 14/11/17 to 25/12/17 on Fiskars products at minervacrafts.com.

Discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

25% off!

if you buy one pattern...

Is there a more perfect time than now to turn your hand to luxe lace? If it’s your first encounter, ease yourself in with Simplicity 8163. The raglan sleeves are a pretty way to present the visible seams, whilst the neckline and cap sleeve cuffs are finished off with binding, so you can get a feel for the fabric without too much effort. £9.95, simplicitynewlook.com

want it, need it, BUY IT!

Brother’s new Innov-is M280D combination sewing machine will grant all of your creative wishes.

It has 125 built-in embroidery designs, 45 of which feature Disney characters, plus 181 stitches, ten fonts, ten one-step buttonholes, a thread-cut button and other features that will make your stitching magical! £899, brothersewing.co.uk

Have your say!

Christmas lace and sequin dress, £140, lauraashley.com

If you haven’t done so already, cast your vote in the British Sewing Awards 2017 to make sure the brands and people you love are recognised for their contribution to our industry. You’ll be rewarded with an exclusive FREE flowerchild toy pattern and one lucky voter will receive a bumper bundle of prizes worth more than £320...

Turn to p43 or head online to vote at sewmag.co.uk/awards

yes please!

If December isn’t the month to surround yourself with all that shimmers, we don’t know when is.

Yes Please is a collection of metallic fabrics by Jen Allyson for Riley Blake, featuring romantic motifs in sparkly soft shades of rose, grey and gold on black and white. £12.80 per metre, plushaddict.co.uk

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sew DRESSMAKING

dress

the

making

collection

sew cover star

Whether or not you’ve finished (or even started!) your Christmas stitching, make the time to indulge in some self-indulgent sewing with our choice of garments. Your FREE New Look pattern offers five styles, whilst our other choice of garments are both fun to stitch and wear.

Annette top, p32

Dana skirt, p22

Eve dress, p18

Penny shirt, p26

Dorothy blouse, p39

your free pattern

help

here to

Turn the page to get started!

DORTE HEATON

TILLY WALNES

SARAH GLEDSON

The bag-making expert shows us how to sew Cath Kidston totes.

Dorte of Dragonfly Fabrics advises on making winter coats.

Meet Tilly and the rest of our judging panel for Dressmaker of the Year.

Stitch aviator hats for all the family with Sarah’s masterclass.

P60

P46

P36

P51

DEBBIE VON GRABLERCROZIER

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\

of your

Discover the

pattern

potential

your free pattern

FREE

Your FREE PATTERN this issue, worth £6.95, is jam-packed with a wardrobe-boosting FIVE MAKES! You’ll find a tailored jacket with TWO SLEEVE OPTIONS, a waistcoat, the ideal BEGINNER TROUSERS and a cap-sleeve dress that gives you the opportunity to practise PRINCESS SEAMS and master inserting a truly INVISIBLE ZIPPER. All pieces can be dressed up or down to suit ANY OCCASION, and we can’t wait to see your version!

FACE to FACE Prym mixed size universal needles, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com

Don’t skip adding the interfaced facing pieces at the dress neckline and waistcoat armhole. It may take a little more time and fabric, but it will ultimately give your garment a neater look and help it last longer too. A good tip for a smooth neckline is to trim half of the facing seam allowance away after attaching it to the main piece and before clipping the curves in both layers.

why not KNIT?

the right NEEDLE

If you want to challenge your skills and expand your understanding of fabrics, view D would be a good opportunity to try adapting a woven pattern for knits. It will involve evaluating the ease and potentially sizing down, omitting the invisible zip and centre-back seam, plus choosing a different finish for the neckline and sleeves – without the facings!

There are lots of different types of machine needles out there, depending on what fabric you’ve chosen. Most woven materials can be sewn with a regular needle. For cotton, we used a size 70, whilst 60 would prevent your fabric puckering and size 90 is better suited to heavier materials.

think SHARP

Sew-all thread is the most commonly used type and will be suitable for the majority of materials, including the recommended types for your free pattern.

You only need to deviate from this choice if your fabric is very fine, heavy or stretchy – there are specialist threads available just for these.

Never underestimate the importance of sharp dressmaking shears, as blunt blades can damage your fabric. Ensure your material is as close to the paper pattern as possible by cutting with the fabric as flat and close to your work surface as you can.

There is a lot of phobia surrounding invisible zips, but they aren’t as tricky to insert as many stitchers think, so long as you have a zipper foot. Applying lightweight interfacing to the seam allowance will stabilise the opening. It’s also good practice to roll the teeth back and press them, which allows the needle on your machine to get even closer.

We colour matched with Madeira Aerofil threads in shades 8821 and 8730. madeira. co.uk

Fiskars razor-edge easy action softgrip shears, £23.99, minervacrafts.com

For hand-stitched finishes, strengthen thread and prevent tangles by running it over Prym beeswax beforehand. £2.39, minervacrafts.com

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Cloud 9 glimmer solids in Pearl (left) and Mineral (right). For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/cloud9

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25% off *

8” invisible zipper in pale aqua. £1.59, minerva crafts.com

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Fiskars scissor sharpener, £3.79, minervacrafts.com 10

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*Valid from 14/11/17 to 25/12/17 on Fiskars products at minervacrafts. com. Discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

choose a THREAD

master ZIPS

Shank buttons come in a wide range of designs – these ones will add a sense of fun to your makes. Impex cross stitch alphabet shank button, £1.29 each, minervacrafts.com

with code SEWFISKARS

6 pattern

your free pattern

style selector

pieces!

Whether you stitch the different garments up as coordinating pieces or channel a completely different style for each one, you’ll be surprised at how many outfit options your free pattern brings.

Bag, £17.99, Mango, Necklace from a selection at H&M

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sew DRESSMAKING

FRONT

style a/b ALL-OCCASION A well-tailored jacket adds finesse to any outfit. The half-sleeve version is more playful but still a great choice for workwear.

A

B

6013

FRONT

style c

BACK

FUN PIECE Not just for three-piece suits, team this slim-fit waistcoat with skinny jeans and a plain white tee 6013 for aFRONT well-balanced look.

why we made STYLE D

B

style d A

It’s the perfect piece for anything the festive season can throw at us – from impromptu Christmas lunches with friends to gift shopping in the city. The fit is really flattering but comfortable to wear too.

CLASSIC STYLE BACK Flattering tailoring such 6013 as the long waist darts means this versatile garment can be dressed up or down, depending 4/26/10 on your fabric choice.

FRONT

A

style e B

LAID-BACK COOL We would pair these wide-fit trousers with a simple fitted tee and wedges for an effortlessly chic weekend look.

BACK

B

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e fabric Keep yout rtheye eneeondth le plate edge a e, rather guidelin dle, for pethrfaecnt on the neehing at the hem. topstitc

C A

D

D

E

the perfect

size

the right your free pattern

fit

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

AT A STRETCH To make the trousers even more comfortable, use 2.5cm-wide elastic and make the waistband casing wider to accommodate it.

It’s also important to remember that elastic should only stretch when the trousers are being pulled on, so make sure that it’s relaxed when you’re cutting the amount you need.

EXTRA TIPS FOR ATTACHING A COLLAR

THE ROYAL TREATMENT Princess seams require a little more effort to lay smooth with no puckers or gathers, but are worth it. Key points to remember are to make a line of stay stitching before joining pieces, matching and pinning the notches first then working outwards.

Stitch slowly to avoid jagged lines, then clip through the stay stitching so that the seam will lay smooth.

TURN TO P84 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE

3 Before assembling the garment, stay stitch from the neck edge to the hem on each front and front facing piece to prevent the neck edge from stretching. This will ensure a flat front is achieved.

3 Before pressing the collar, roll the outside seam slightly to the underside of the collar prior to attaching it. It will sit better and no seam will be visible.

3 A considerable amount of easing is required when attaching the collar to the back.

This is achieved by carefully clipping close to the stay stitches around the curve of the neck edge.

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DARTING AROUND Understanding how darts create shape in the fabric will go a long way in helping you create the perfect fit.

On a muslin, experiment with how changing the length and position of a dart manipulates the curves around your body. Remember that with bust darts, the tip should be near (but not directly on) the apex of your chest.

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your way

sew DRESSMAKING

make it

Dream

MACHINES

ENTRY-LEVEL MACHINE

The Janome J3-18 is a great starter model, offering 18 built-in stitches that include a good range of utility stitches plus two decorative ones! Other bonus features are an automatic buttonhole function, plus an auto needle threader. £149

UPGRADE MODEL

Top, £19.50, scarf and jeans all from a selection at Marks & Spencer

Janome’s Atelier 5 is a fully computerised model that offers more arm space, which is ideal for stitchers who regularly work on larger dressmaking or quilting projects. A free quilting kit and extension table are also included in the price! £899 Find out more about both models at janome.co.uk

SEW RECOMMENDS Loop turners are handy for creating rouleau button and belt loops if you’d like to add them. Prym loop turner, £3.89, minervacrafts.com

Next month’s FREE pattern

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EASY KNITS

Stitch six tops with sleeve, neckline and hem variations in sizes 4-26, suitable for stretch fabrics!

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6 fab styles

SEW DEC 2017 master_SEW 02/11/2017 16:42 Page 14

Festive Glamour Collection May Martin wearing Fabric Lands' Sequin Blitz Lopho, from our festive season glamour collection.

119CM WIDE £9.99MTR. THE PATTERN MAY USED WAS NEW LOOK 6261 @ £6.95

"This fabric gives instant sparkle to a special occasion. I found it difficult to choose from the many gorgeous colours. I was impressed with how well it seamed and pressed.” - May. May has been a loyal customer of Fabric Land for many years, choosing to wear our brand gives our products great integrity.

As usual May is Sew on Trend!

Buy in stores or online at www.fabricland.co.uk

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sew YOU!

You share all your latest makes and last-minute festive stitching ideas

I finally got round to stitching this top up from the free Simplicity pattern in issue 102 of Sew, using a gorgeous viscose challis from Fabric Godmother. It came together so easily and I really enjoyed making it too. The blouse looks really smart with trousers or a highwaisted skirt for the office, but works equally well with jeans.

that I’ve made from These are some cushions shirts. He died a few my Grandpa’s favourite d to use them to create nte wa I months ago, and always feel closer to something I could keep and h sewing but I think wit e enc eri exp him. I have no they came out. he’d be happy with how Cat Morton

Caroline Percy

ry in loving memo

Stacey Smith

I’m going to make felt tree decs with my daughters – they can’t wait to get started!

I finished this Sew Different essential denim dress, using fabric from Fabworks.

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Carol Gregory

choose a name with

Say Hell o to Wishbon e!

p74

Each month on Facebook we ask you to help us choose a name for our mascot.

“I chose the name Wishbone as the bear’s shape reminded me of childhood Christmas dinners, waiting to be given the wishbone to pull with my sister.”

Janis Lea, Sew reader

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Janis has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira. co.uk

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social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! I made this dress using my own body measurements. I’v e only been sewing fo r eight months but am really pleased with how it turned out!

Jade Coleclough

upton girl

I’m really pleased with this dress that I made with Cashmerette’s Upton pattern, using gold and embroidered denim fabrics.

Jolanta Klatt

Nikki Baker

My Mum taught me to sew and now I run my own business teaching beginners, just like she did for me.

Here’s a birthday present for my father-in -law that I made from scratch.

Emma Watts

Katrina Rochon

I’ll always be grateful to my teacher Mrs Brooks for teaching me how to sew at school.

This is a photo of me with my eldest ing daughter. I’m wear n iga rd ca st fir the I’ve ever made, sewn especially for the e #cosycardichalleng m fro ric fab ing us d Minerva Crafts an n iga rd ca on co the Co rns pattern from Patte for Pirates. More importantly, I’m so er’s proud of my daught e sh pencil skirt, which d an t, cu , ed aft self-dr th stitched herself wi a scuba fabric from Fabric Styles.

Liz Dobinson

fundraiser I made this dress for a new charity shop in aid of children from Chernobyl. I plan on sewing many more!

on the sew blog...

I’ve been making this dress for my little girl, I just need to find some star buttons to finish it off...

Raluca Batâr

Yvonne Abbs

New!

New!

New!

See Corinne Bradd demonstrate how to make a cute dog accessory!

Use your skills to stitch a festive dec for Friends of the Elderly.

We sit down and chat with the creator of this fab new pattern brand.

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 16

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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

READERS’ CHOICE

HHHH HH

The votes have been counted and your favourite garment from issue 104 was the Ada skirt! Watch out on our Facebook page for the next poll.

Here’s Rupert Moss-Reindeer, made from your Christmas Stitch Book that came free with the Christmas 2017 edition of Sew. I used a different colour combination and inserted little rice bags in the feet to give him ballast. I’m also really pleased with my version of Flossie Flamingo from your website!

sew

H

STAR letter

H

Sue Rayner Jacobs

stitch&share

io terrific tr

d away en a little bit carrthieat came I might have gottok n er tt 6471 pa with the New Lo issue of Sew... The top on er ob ct the with the O n D of the pattern,sleeves, the far left is verswio st ra nt out the co middle one is B ith ht is D again but rig e th and the top on -low hem – I also used without the highbias binding for this one. a contrast satin

triumphs with Sew! hy itc st st te la ur yo e Shar

festive friend Just a small reindeer...

Jane Ball

ins Christine Wilk

Faith Bush

My mum taught me to sew when I was 15 and now we run our business Bizzy Mums together.

trick or treat I made sure I was prepared for my Halloween sewing class for children during half-term at Rose Room Sewing, Thorrington.

Glynis Hutchins

Well done Sue, you’ve won a bundle of fat quarters from Gütermann!

Cheryl Philipsz I must have been five when my Mum taught me to hand sew – I even had my own Little Betty sewing machine!

hen party I made these cheeky chicken doorstops!

Beverley Mayhew

cutting edge This scissor pouch is a gift for my niece.

Theresa Jackson

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 17

sewmag.co.uk

Get comfortable working with lace on the

EVE DRESS

stitch a PANEL DRESS Get started

• Lace • Viscose/elastane jersey Note: amount required depends on size. A size 10 (88cm bust) used 40cm x 1.1m of lace and 85cm x 1.1m of jersey.

Sizes

Custom-sized

Cutting guide

^ See Do The Maths panel *If using a fabric with less stretch, you may need to add an extra 2cm to the neckband length.

1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

1

Cut out all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide.

On your body, measure from the side neck to the natural waistline, then subtract 11.5cm from this. Measure the result down from the top of one dress piece and draw a straight line across the width to mark where the middle

insert piece will be. Measure 12cm up from the bottom of the dress piece and draw another straight line to mark where the lower edge of the bottom lace piece will be. Repeat on the second dress piece, then cut the two lines to make the top, middle and bottom jersey pieces.

2

For the front neckline, fold one top insert piece in half, right sides together. Measure 14cm from the fold across the top, then 8cm down (and on) the fold, and mark both. Use a pattern ruler to join these points with a curved line and cut for the front neckline.

Repeat on the second top insert piece, 14cm across but 2cm down, then cut for the back neckline.

3

Match the bottom jersey and lace pieces, right sides together, then stitch along one long edge. Repeat to join the centre and top pieces, alternating lace and jersey and ending with the front neckline lace piece, to create the dress front. Repeat with the remaining fabric for the dress back.

4

Join the dress front and back at the shoulder seams, right sides together, then neaten the seam allowance and all remaining raw edges, except the neckline. Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, then stitch across the short edge to form a ring.

Using the seam as a starting point, mark the quarter and midway points along both long edges.

5

Mark the centre of the front and back necklines with a pin.

Fold the neckband in half lengthways with wrong sides together. Beginning at a shoulder seam, pin it around the neckline,

Slip, £20, Marks & Spencer

Note: begin by taking your bust and waist measurements. The largest of these will be measurement A. The width of the front/back piece will be measurement B. Cut out all pieces with height measurement on the fold Dress front/back: cut two (divide meas. A by four, add 3.5cm = width) x (desired length minus 18.5cm^ = height) on the fold from jersey Neckband: cut one 4.5cm x 56cm* strip from jersey Top insert: cut two (meas. B = width) x 18.5cm (height) pieces on the fold from lace Middle insert: cut two (meas. B = width) x 8cm (height) pieces on the fold from lace Bottom insert: cut two (meas. B = width) x 10.5cm (height) pieces on the fold from lace

Adding panels of an interesting fabric like lace gives even the most simply constructed dresses extra oomph. Here, Julia Claridge has doubled up jersey to give this sleeveless shift dress extra weight; if you would like to do the same, simply cut twice the amount of front/back pieces and layer when piecing the dress together. To help manage the jersey’s stretch, pin parallel to the straight grain and work in a narrow, long zigzag stitch throughout.

matching all of the raw edges and stretching the jersey so that the quarter and midway points line up. Sew the neckband in place.

Match and pin the side seams of the dress front and back, right sides together, ensuring that all the inserts are aligned. From the

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shoulder seam, measure down the amount you would like your armhole (ours is 22cm) and mark on each side. Beginning at this point, stitch the side seams.

Fold in the seam allowance around each armhole and topstitch in place. Turn up a single 2cm hem and stitch.

sew DRESSMAKING

do the MATHS!

The following is based on a size 10 with a desired length of 92cm, and side neck to natural waistline distance of 47cm. If the largest of the bust and waist is 88cm, measurement A is 88.

Dress front/back: (88 ÷ 4 = 22, + 3.5* = 25.5) x (92 – 18.5^ = 73.5) 25.5cm x 73.5cm First cutting line in jersey: 47** – 11.5 = 35.5cm *Extra 3.5cm is for ease (2cm x 4 = 8cm total) and seam allowance (1.5cm) ** Side neck to natural waistline measurement ^Less 18.5cm is for three lace panels (-28cm total), but adding five seam allowances (1.5cm x 5 = 7.5) and a hem (2cm)

sew

SHOPPER ************************

FLORAL FANCY Non-stretch lace in dark red, £10 per metre

PAINT THE TOWN Plain red viscose elastane jersey, £13 per metre Both fabrics are available from bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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smooth

VELVET For a really luxe outfit, you can’t go wrong with velvet – its distinctive soft pile and regal history instantly provides any garment with a red carpet feel. It was historically made only from silk, but you can now find more affordable varieties in cotton or synthetic fibres. Choose from plain or crushed piles, printed or embossed versions, and stretch types too. It might seem like a trickier fabric to work with, but if you take care to cut all the pieces so the nap faces in the same direction and use the right needle, you can be sure of a good result.

1

2 4

1

7

Abstract velvet in cerise magenta, £7.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

2

3

4 5 6 7

3

Glitter velour in black, £11.99 per metre, fabricland.co.uk

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Italian stretch velvet in gold, £13.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Cotton velvet in royal, £10 per metre, raystitch.co.uk

Viscose velvet in purple, £7.49 per metre, fabricland.co.uk

Embossed velvet in red, £3.50 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

Crushed velvet in light jade, £2.25 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

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Use two pattern pieces to make the

DANA SKIRT Everyone needs a go-to outfit for the evening, and this versatile skirt can be made in either a dressy or smart casual style – depending on your choice of fabric. Featuring just two pattern pieces, the easy-sew garment features a fitted waistband at your natural waist, plus allows you to master basic dressmaking techniques such as inserting a zip and stitching in the ditch.

sew a CIRCLE SKIRT Get started

• Light to medium weight woven fabric, 1.8m (112cm wide) • Fabric (for lining), 30cm x 51cm • Fusible interfacing, 30cm x 51cm • Zip, 30cm

unfolded edge to the top edge of the waistband front, right sides together. Pin, stitch, then press the seam allowance towards the outer waistband.

Fold Waistband Lining RS

Sizes

Waistband RS

4-26

Note: choose your size based on your waist measurement (see the guide provided with the online templates).

Zipper WS

3 Skirt RS

Cutting guide

Waistband: cut two on the fold each from main and lining fabric Skirt: cut one on the fold 1.3cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

1

Waistband WS

3

Neaten the back edges of the skirt. Place a zip on the back seam, right side facing down, aligning the top of the teeth with the bottom of the waistband lining. Pin and stitch the zip as far as the bottom of the teeth, then repeat for the other side.

Fold

Skirt RS

1

Waistband Lining WS

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Fuse interfacing to the waistband, then align it with the top of the skirt, right sides together. Pin, stitch, then press the seam allowance upwards.

Zipper

Waistband WS

4 Skirt WS

Fold

Waistband WS

2

Fold

2

Skirt RS

Press the bottom edge of the waistband lining to the wrong side by 6mm. Match the

4

With right sides together, sew the remainder of the back seam below the zip, starting exactly where you stopped when inserting the zip so that there is no gap. Press the seam allowance open.

Waistband Lining RS

5 Skirt RS

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Turn the waistband lining inside the skirt and press the top seam down. The folded

edge should fall just below the waistband stitch line. Pin the waistband in place and turn the skirt right sides out. Stitch in the ditch to secure the waistband (see Your Sewing Guide, p85), making sure to catch the waistband on the wrong side and removing the pins as you go.

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

reader

offer

Sew Caroline Weekend Style by Caroline Hulse, £16.99, Fons & Porter.

To buy a copy for £13.99 inc FREE UK P&P, call 01206 255777, quoting AP2017. Offer closes 14/01/18.

Dream

MACHINE

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GREAT FOR BEGINNERS This sewing machine has all of the functions you’ll need to get on your feet, including a four-step buttonhole, 21 built-in stitches and an auto needle threader. £179, singerco.co.uk

SEW DEC 2017 master_SEW 02/11/2017 16:42 Page 24

Great Gifts for Sewing Fans

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1 STANDARD

For: straight and zigzag stitching on everyday tasks.

It has good needle clearance and the spring button at the back of the foot locks it in position for ‘climbing’ over bulky seams. £19.

2 ZIPPER

For: attaching regular (a) and invisible (b) zippers.

They are designed to let the needle get in really close to the zips’ teeth, but are also useful for sewing piping. £19 each.

3 NON-STICK

4 QUARTER INCH 5 WALKING

For: preventing friction when stitching rubbery materials like pleather and oilcloth, thanks to its plastic coating. Some brands offer non-stick varieties of a few different feet. £19.

For: guiding the fabric edge parallel to the needle by pressing it against the plastic bar on the right. This helps achieve a consistent seam allowance without needing much effort. £19.

For: evenly feeding through all fabric layers when stitching.

It can also be used to prevent knit fabrics from overstretching. The metal bar functions as an additional guideline for quilting. £49.

3 2b 1

4 5

2a

10 Find your feet

9

Best foot forward

The numbered stars indicate just some of the great feet that may come as standard with your Janome machine!

6 ROLLED HEM

For: folding and stitching narrow hems, especially on delicate fabrics. The edge of the fabric is folded by a few millimetres through curled metal pieces before stitching. Two for £26.

7

6

8

7 OVERCASTING

For: creating an overlockerstyle finish on raw edges with zigzag stitch. It’s also useful for stitching in the ditch, topstitching, and creating rolled hems if you don’t have that foot. £19.

8 FREE MOTION

For: stitching with no pressure on the fabric, allowing direction changes.

The spring allows it to move freely on the fabric and prevents puckers. Can be used for decorating. £19.

9 BLIND HEM

For: using with a blind hem stitch. The outer layer of fabric at a hem is folded back and runs beside the plastic bar, so that the zigzags only just catch it on the wrong side. £19.

Each sewing machine brand may have feet that look slightly different, and you’ll need to make sure you get the right type – screw or clip-on – for your machine. This will depend on whether your machine has a high or low shank, and front or top-loading bobbin.

10BUTTONHOLE For: gauging and making the correct size of automatic one-step buttonhole by placing a button in the rear and lowering a lever on the machine. £36.

THE FEET PICTURED ARE ALL SUITABLE FOR CATEGORY B JANOME MACHINES, JANOME.CO.UK

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Try stitching soft flowing fabrics to make the

PENNY SHIRT The pussybow blouse is an iconic garment that takes you from a day at the office through to an evening out. Polyester and chiffons are perfect for Amanda Walker's design, giving you the opportunity to practise sewing lightweight fabrics. Don't be tempted to skip matching the pattern notches at the sleeve heads and neckline, as this will help to ensure a professional finish.

sew a NECK TIE TOP

edges, stitch, then press open.

Clip the seam allowance around the neckline curve. Match the centre-back neckline of the back to the neck tie seam. Match one long edge of the tie to the clipped neckline, joining the centre-front notches, then pin and stitch between the notches.

3

Get started

Fold the tie in half lengthways, right sides together, then pin and stitch, leaving the neckline open. Turn right sides out, then press. Clip the seam allowance on the notches in line with the ends of the stitched part so that the seam allowance protrudes from the sewn and turned part of the tie.

• Fabric, 2m (1.5m wide) • Fusible interfacing, 30cm • Five buttons

Cutting guide Front: cut one pair Back: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair

4

Neck tie: cut two 36cm x87.5cm retangles

Unfold the facing along the fold line indicated on the front pattern. Clip the neckline curve of the facing piece, then pin the neckline to the outside of the shirt. Stitch, then fold the facing back to show the right side.

Tease out the corners and press flat. Turn in 1.5cm along the neck tie and back edge, then press the raw edges of the neckline should sit inside the tie. Machine or slip stitch this edge in place.

1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then use it to cut all the pieces according to the cutting guide. Fuse interfacing to the facing parts of the front pieces, then press inside and neaten the edges, plus those of the front and back pieces. Pin the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces, stitch, then press open.

2

5

Neaten all remaining raw edges, then lay the front and back right sides together. Pin at the side seams, stitch, then press open. Sew around the head of the sleeves from the front to the back notch with a gathering stitch. Pin and sew the underarm seams right sides together, press open, then turn the top right sides out.

Shape the neck tie pieces (see Core Skill panel), then pin them at the short straight 26

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sew DRESSMAKING

6

Pull the gathering threads up slightly, then place the sleeve at the armhole.

Match the side and underarm seams together, and then the sleeve and shoulder notches, adjusting the gathers to fit the armhole. Pin, stitch, and neaten the allowances together.

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

7

Press the sleeve cuff to the wrong side by 1cm then 2cm, then pin and edgestitch. Hem the base in the same way. Edgestitch the bottom of the facings down on top. Make five buttonholes on the right front facing, then hand sew the buttons on the left.

Core skill: SHAPING THE TIE Fold each neck tie strip in half lengthwise, measure 7cm down the side opposite the fold and mark. Snip straight from this point to the top corner on the fold.

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03/11/2017 14:28

THANK YOU ALL FOR A FAB SEW SATURDAY

We’ve given three shops the following crowns: Best Workshop, Best Window Display, and Best Charity Fundraiser. Each winner has won £50 of craft books from Search Press. searchpress.com

S

titchers and sewing shops joined our Sew Saturday party on 21st October for a day of activities, workshops, exclusive offers and goodie bags – plus a cuppa and slice of cake. Thank you to everybody who got involved in the day! Here are just some of the highlights…

“The cake was a definite showstopper” “We had a blast on Sew Saturday – the day coincided with our second anniversary and the official launch of our expanded premises!”

The Sewcial Studio in Tamworth, Staffordshire, thesewcialstudio.co.uk

“Jenny and Emma from the Sew team had a great time at Franklins in Colchester, Essex. Here they are with teacher Pat and young stitcher Anabelle Atter”

“So many Daisy Dachshunds were made!”

“We had a brilliant day with workshops to make Christmas wreaths, baubles and zipped make up bags – all were a huge success. This is the first event we have run in our new premises, and we had a great time whilst also raising money for our local hospice. We just love the sewing community!”

Little House of Patchwork in Chichester, West Sussex, thelittlehouseofpatchwork.co.uk

The sew team also paid a visit to Mileybow Fabrics, then Jardines Fabrics – both in Clacton-on-Sea, Essex!

“I made a regular Daisy Dachshund and smaller versions too”

Visit facebook.com/ mileybowfabrics

Visit facebook.com/ jardinesfabrics

“At Abakhans in Hanley I gave my first-ever sewing demo!”

Frankie Baldwin, knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk 28

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BEST WINDOW DISPLAY!

“The Fabric Daisy and Crafty Betty had a fabulous Sew Saturday at Newark Craft Hub, and loved every minute. Thank you to everyone who came along and supported us! We were absolutely packed out and had people knocking on the door before we opened, and customers still making Daisy Dachshund as we were closing.”

“This was our first Sew Saturday and what a brilliant day we had! Our Daisy tote bags proved very popular, as did the fabric baskets. Everyone went home with their makes and a goodie bag – the best bit was that we could welcome people into our shop who hadn’t been before.”

The Fabric Daisy and Crafty Betty in Newark on Trent, newarkcraft hub.co.uk or craftybetty.co.uk

Sewing Room in Downham Market, Norfolk, facebook.com/sewingroomdownhammarket

OR’S EDIT E! FAV

BEST WORK SHOPS!

“Makes from our workshops for Sew Saturday 2017!”

Crafty Sew and So in Leicester, craftysewandso.com

BEST CHARITY FUNDRAISER!

“On the day we launched our community quilt project, selling the Daisy Dachshund block pattern for £1 with the money raised going to Three Counties Dog Rescue. We were delighted to have a special visit from adorable Jenni and Jack, and the team there do a wonderful job in helping them (and so many others) to find new homes.”

Gather ‘n’ Sew in Bourne, Lincolnshire, gathernsew.co.uk

“We had young stitchers with us and they spent the day happily sewing away. It was lovely to see such enthusiasm at a young age. The make and take table was busy all day... we even had to set up extra sewing machines because of how many people wanted to take part.”

Sewing Machines Direct in Wrexham, sewingmachines.co.uk

All donated to roaf.org

“Having celebrated my 70th birthday in August, I decided to donate 70 teddy bears to The Romanian Aid Foundation. For Sew Saturday I asked my customers to join in by making mini quilts, pillows, jumpers and donating money or gifts to fill shoeboxes. The generosity has been amazing!”

Calico Kate in Lampeter, Wales, calicokate.co.uk

“We celebrated with our lovely customers and as always, May Martin!”

Sew Busy in Fleet, Hampshire, sew-busy.co.uk

Sewing Bee’s Jenniffer Taylor gave workshops at Abakhan in Mostyn, abakhan.co.uk

keep an eye out – THE DATE FOR SEW SATURDAY 2018 WILL SOON BE ANNOUNCED! 29

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TO

IC PP

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ND

Mayberry dress

EP

Difficulty:

EN

NDIE pattern news

by Jennifer Lauren

DE

The beauty of this knee-length dress lies in its playful details, from the set-in pockets and off-centre button placket to the gently rounded neckline and gathered or rolled sleeves in a choice of three lengths. The range of bust sizes and built-in drawstring waist makes light work of getting a perfect fit, whilst its simplicity will encourage you to experiment with more adventurous fabric types. £9.84, jenniferlaurenhandmade.store

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D E SI G N E R S

SIZE S

18 8-

Side drawstring dress

by Trend Patterns Difficulty: Giving a big nod to the drawstrings that trended across the SS17 catwalks, the main feature of this midi dress with a slightly extended shoulder is the dramatic ruched side detailing that ends in a side vent, which is surprisingly easy to achieve. It would look gorgeous in any fabric with good drape. £20, trendpatterns.co.uk

SIZ

ES 8 4-1

Gemma sweater and MAXI dress

by Named

Difficulty:

Whether you’re looking for a casual sporty pullover for chillier days or a feminine and glam jersey dress, this modern pattern is sure to take your wardrobe up a notch.

Both options feature a funnel neck and cool geometric cut at the front, whilst the loose-fitting jumper is finished with elastic at the cuffs and hem, and the semi-fitted maxi dress has a dramatic vent on the back. £17.50, backstitch.co.uk 30

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sew DRESSMAKING SIZ E

by I Am Difficulty:

8 8-1

CU P SI

Colibri dungarees

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A-D ZE S SI S 6-24 ZE

Beginner-friendly dungarees? We wouldn’t have believed it either, but Colibri boasts simple lines, patch pockets and a ribbon-tie, as well as side snap fastenings, all of which are a pleasure to stitch. The racer-style back adds interest, and you can choose an above-knee or ankle-grazer length. Its fabric options, like denim and washed linen, will make your garment sturdy and long-lasting. £15, backstitch.co.uk

Kemptown jacket

by Pier&Palace

Difficulty:

SIZ ES

by Anne Kerdilès Difficulty:

Code valid 10/11/17 to 15/12/17

If you plan on catching some winter sun but want something that can still be layered on grizzly days, this sleeveless dress with bust darts and a lined yoke will work well in everything from crepe to chambray. It’s a good opportunity to try Italian pockets, setting gathers at the shoulders and waist, plus inserting an invisible zipper. £13.12 (paper), annekerdilescouture.com

6 -2 0

*

SI

S ZE

6-

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Belle-Île dress

Challenge yourself to make this panelled biker jacket and you’ll be rewarded with an item you’ll be proud to wear again and again. It’s fully lined and finished with Hong Kong seams for a luxurious feel, whilst the slight waterfall collar gives it a soft edge. In terms of fabric, this is your chance to have fun with coloured pleathers! £12 (PDF), pierandpalace.com

10% OFF* WITH CODE SEWMAG 31

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Draft your own pattern for the

ANNETTE WRAP TOP Stitching a made-to-measure top like this wrap by Amanda Walker will result in a perfectly fitting garment every time, from just a couple of simple calculations. If you’ve never worked with chiffon before, its a good idea to stabilise it temporarily with tissue paper or a starch spray while you work. Alternatively, this top would look great stitched from any lightweight fabric with good drape.

stitch a WRAP TOP

Cutting guide 11cm

14cm

2cm

• Chiffon* • Dressmaking paper

30cm

Front: cut two 58cm x (waist ÷ 2 + 42.5cm) pieces from fabric

WRAP TOP FRONT CUT ONE PAIR

Quarter of waist + 2.5cm

Back: cut one 58cm x (waist ÷ 4 + 40cm) piece each from fabric Tie: cut two 30cm x 1m strips from fabric

1

2

From the bottom of the upper sleeve, measure down half of your lower arm

3cm

Quarter of waist + 40cm Half of waist + 42.5cm

1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide and cut dressmaking paper to half the size of the back piece. Measure 11cm across from the top left and mark, then repeat 2cm down from the same corner. Draw a gentle curve between these points for the back neckline. Measure 14cm down from the top-right corner, then join this to the side of the neckline with a straight line for the upper sleeve.

cm

18.5cm

Custom-sized

Cutting guide

6.5

PLACE ON FOLD

Sizes

WRAP TOP BACK CUT ONE ON FOLD 58cm

*Amount required depends on size.

A size 10 (70cm waist) used 1.7m (1.2m wide)

Half of lower arm + 4cm

Get started

Back piece only

measurement plus 4cm, then go 3cm in from the edge. Draw a straight line from here to the upper sleeve, plus a 6.5cm one at a right angle to this. From the bottom left corner, measure a quarter of your waist measurement plus 2.5cm, then mark. Draw an 18.5cm straight line up from this point, then a gently curved line from there to the end of the sleeve.

3

Fold the back fabric piece in half, right sides together, then place the paper template on it with the neckline next to the fold and cut out the back of the top. Place the front

Front piece only

Front and back pieces

pieces right sides together, then reuse the template to cut the sleeves and sides from both. Measure 30cm up along the uncut side, then draw a gentle curve from this point to the top of the sleeve. Cut both pieces to create a pair.

4

Match the shoulder and sleeve of one front to the back piece, right sides together, then pin and stitch. Repeat with the second front piece. Neaten the seam allowances, close to the stitching line, then press them towards the back of the top. Match the 30cm edges of a tie and front piece, wrong sides

together, then stitch 5mm from the edge. Turn right sides together and repeat to create a French seam.

5

Match the lower arm and side seams on the left-hand side, right sides together, then stitch. Repeat for the right, but leave a 10cm gap beginning 7.5cm up from the base for the tie.

Fold back the seam allowance at the gap, neaten, then stitch in place. Neaten the rest of the seam allowances, then press towards the back. Switch to a rolled-hem machine foot and hem around the neckline, ties, base and sleeve cuffs.

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sew DRESSMAKING This project involves no tricky fastenings, you simply thread one tie through the side opening, then fasten with a knot or bow

Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

sew

SHOPPER Skirt, £36, Warehouse, Necklace, £12, accessorize.com

************************

Dream

MACHINE DOTTY FOR YOU Circle print polyester chiffon in red multi, £2.99 per metre, abakhan.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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GREAT ALL-ROUNDER This fast-threading machine helps you produce great quality stitching, with 13 one-step buttonholes and 100 built-in stitches – not just for dressmaking but appliqué, embroidery and patchwork too. £399, gurusewingmachines.com

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sew DRESSMAKING

Stitch the Look

EASY PONTE ROMA

WHY NOT TRY

Knit fabrics have a reputation for being trickier to work with than woven ones, but they’re easier than you think to stitch. If you’re eager to explore this fabric type, then Ponte Roma varieties are a good place to start.

Because the material is heavier and more stable than other knits, it lends itself to fitted garments, whilst having enough stretch to be comfortable without the need for fussy fastenings.

1

2

3

Dress, £25, dorothy perkins.com

4

“Ponte Roma is a soft double knit that is perfect for dresses, skirts, light jackets and cardigans. It often is a polyester viscose blend and contains a small amount of spandex, which allows enough stretch for comfort but still maintains its shape. This fabric is very versatile and works just as well for a warm tunic over leggings in the winter as it does an elegant dress for the Christmas party season.”

5 1 Sage 2 Turquoise 3 Forest 4 Rose 5 Marl blue All of the featured fabrics are available for £12 per metre at dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Pip Price, Dragonfly Fabrics

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. . . t x e n r u o e FIVE B easy-to-enter

categories

Everyday: Home-made tops, skirts and gowns that fit like a glove, featuring a high level of comfort and ease of wear.

Stitch your way to glory!

NEW! Occasion: Special selections and posh frocks that showcase the finest designs for parties, weddings and fancy events.

Vintage:

Go back to the future with retro makes in your choice of era and style for endless interpretations of bygone beauty.

Upcycling:

Bringing new life to existing items with inventive touches, this is your chance to show us all of your customised creations.

Chiwld : ’s earren Show us your favourite make for your little loved ones, from junior jackets to petite pinnies!

It’s time to strut your stitchy stuff, as we proudly announce the launch of our second Dressmaker of the Year competition. Following the massive success of our first campaign, which inspired more than 1,200 entries, it’s your turn to show us what you’re made of – with five categories and all kinds of stitchy possibilities at your fingertips. “Last year, we were amazed at how positively the sewing community responded to the task of sharing their creations with the world,” says Sew editor Jennifer Ward.

Whether it’s a wedding gown or a shift dress, the FREE sky’s the limit! Reigning champ Portia Lawrie, who makes up this year’s judging panel, encourages Simplicity sewists of all abilities to enter and show off their pattern for handiwork. “Don’t compare yourself to others. every entrant Sew your own way!”

Go

FOR IT! JUST SOME OF LAST YEAR’S Candice Kirk ENTRIES! polka dot dress,

Vintage category

Ying Qin baby dress, Children’s category

Lorna Richardson pink jacket, Readyto-Wear category

MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Our stellar judging panel

STOEP TH PRESS!

Tilly Walnes Super-talented designer, seamstress and founder of pattern house Tilly and the Buttons will be imparting her creative flair and technical wisdom to our panel.

•

Miss Libby Rose

Stuart Hillard

Popular sewing star Miss Libby Rose believes in the therapeutic benefits of stitching and travels the UK, teaching and spreading the word in her Pink Sewing Bus.

Beloved former Sewing Bee sensation, our main man Stuart is also an author and popular TV personality. He has a passion for textiles and crafting innovation.

•

•

Portia Lawrie Our first Dressmaker of the Year, refashion queen and blogger supreme, Portia’s know-how and competition insights make her a true asset to our judging panel.

•

Enter now for your chance to win! ry CategoE R

W I N NZ E PRI !

4 to win

Win+! £3,500 SEWING GOODIES!

DON’T MISS OUT! There’s a host of prizes up for grabs, including a top-of-the-range Janome Atelier 5 sewing machine, worth £999, plus an Adjustoform Olivia 8 dressform mannequin, Madeira threads, and other dressmaking delights! Our other four category winners will each win a Janome 230DC sewing machine. If that wasn’t enough, all category champs will receive £100 of Hobbycraft vouchers and a pair of personalised scissors from Fiskars, engraved with their name and worth £70.

Every entrant will also receive a Simplicity pattern. So what are you waiting for? Enter now! makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear

Cham pion

WINN PRIZ ER 1 to w E in !

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Vicky Gill Showstopping queen of the sequins, Strictly’s head costume designer and commercial seamstress will certainly add sparkle to our judging dream team.

“I was thrilled with last year’s standard of entries and am super-excited for this one. Be bold, be daring, and be unique!”

STUART HILLARD

enter HOW TO

Simply take a clear photo of your garment against a plain, white background and enter it online at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear.

You can include up to five shots of your make and are also able to tell us a little more information about your entry or the story behind it.

You can enter each category, with multiple entries if you wish, but each entry must be a different garment. All entries must be submitted by 9th March 2018.

Lauren Guthrie “New trends can take a little while for me to warm up to, but I get there in the end”

T

his year, I’ve ended up feeling a little conflicted about sewing a new outfit for Christmas parties – mainly because I’ll be going off on holiday to warmer climes around the festive season! Instead, I’d like to sew something that’s a bit more versatile.

Does anyone else find that new trends can sometimes take a little while to warm to? I’ve been seeing baggy trousers and culottes on blogs and Instagram for a while now, and always used to say they just weren’t for me, but there are some really inspiring versions out there now that have made me think otherwise. Now, I quite fancy trying them out!

I’ve not got much time, so I’m going to use Megan Nielsen’s Flint sewing pattern, which includes wide-legged cropped pants with a unique fastening at the side seam. There is also a hidden closure on the left pocket with a cute little tie. They seem quite simple to make and I think would look fantastic in some of the new printed crepes that have arrived in my shop, which have a lovely drape and are perfect for this style. They come in some really striking designs too – my favourite one is Jungle Jamboree!

If I had time to make all the things and enough occasions to wear them, I’d also be making a lovely skirt in some sparkly jacquard. This is a stiffer type of fabric where the design is incorporated as the fabric is being woven, rather than being printed onto the surface afterwards. The thicker structure means it’s great for creating shape in garments. It would look really striking when pleated, like with the Chardon skirt pattern by Deer and Doe. As the fabric is bulkier, especially where seams come together and at the waistband, you’ll need to make sure you have a new needle in your sewing machine in a size 80 – or even a 90, if it’s really chunky. If there are sparkly threads woven through the fabric they can be prone to overheating and melting when pressed, so using a pressing cloth will help protect your fabric.

I’m really excited about the two party nights we have coming up in the shop. Our first one on Thursday 30th November is our late

What Lauren’s ❤ loving ❤

“We always have su ch a lovely and inspiring day at ou r meet-ups in the guthrie & ghan i shop!”

night shopping and party night. It’s always a lovely atmosphere as we unveil our Christmas window display, play festive tunes, enjoy mulled wine and mince pies, plus put together special offers and a charity raffle. It’s free to attend and you don’t have to book, plus if you wear a handmade party outfit or accessory you’ll also get a free raffle ticket!

The ‘g&g Festive Bee’ is our other Christmas party night, taking place on Wednesday 6th December. It can be tricky finding time to make any last-minute presents at this time of year, so the night is a great chance to get in some quality sewing time. The ticket price includes your choice of three lovely projects to make – a festive oven mitt, a chic make up roll, or some cute hanging decorations – along with mulled wine, mince pies and a special visit from Santa! Spaces are limited and can be booked on our website. Wishing you all happy sewing for your festive projects!

Lauren FLINT PATTERN BY MEGAN NIELSEN, £15.50, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK

RIGHT NOW I’m all about...

Prym fabric clips. They’re great for really bulky fabrics instead of pins!

Succulents – I’ve been trying to find my inner plant lady.

JUNGLE JAMBOREE CREPE FABRIC, £14.50 PER METRE, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK

The Building Block Dress by Liesl Gibson! I’m using the book to design outfits for my daughter Sophia.

FIND FABRIC, PATTERNS, HABERDASHERY AND MORE AT GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK 38

sewmag.co.uk

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Fitting raglan sleeves 3 Gathering an elasticated neckband 3 Stitching a tie

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

sew

free pattern download

Enjoy sewing, then love wearing the

sewmag.co.uk /templates

DOROTHY BLOUSE Oozing elegance in iconic Liberty, this tie-waist blouse by Fiona Hesford is simple to stitch but will teach you a couple of new techniques. It features raglan sleeves, which are easy to master and extend to the collar to create a diagonal seam, rather than having to be eased into armholes. Afterwards, try creating a channel and handling elastic for the gathered neckline. Once you’re done, you can finish it off with a tie belt that fastens at the waist.

Get started

• Liberty Tana lawn fabric, 1.5m (130cm wide) • Elastic (11mm wide), 60cm (sml), 70cm (med), 80cm (lrg)

Sizes

Small (8-10)

Bust (cm) Waist (cm) Hips (cm) 90-94 65-69 82-86

Medium (12-14)

91-96

74-79

99-104

Large (16-18)

100-106

84-89

109-114

Finished length: approx. 64cm

Cutting guide

Front : cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Neckband: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Tie: cut one 6cm x 1.3m strip 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

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sew a RAGLAN SLEEVE TOP Sewing the body pieces

Fiona Hesford’s guide for THE BEST RESULTS

1 FRONT

2

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Pin the back pieces, right sides together, then sew along the centreback seam. Finish the raw edges (see Fiona’s tips), then press.

2

Lay the front piece out, right side facing up. Pin each sleeve at one top side of the front body piece, right sides together, then sew. Finish the raw edges, then press. Lay the back piece out.

3

Pin the sleeve to the back as for the front. Sew. Finish the raw edges. Press. Pin the back to the front, right sides together. Sew the side seams.

Repeat for the sleeve sides.

Making the neckband

4

5

6

7

8

9

Finish all raw edges of the back, Fold the neckband in half, then press. With right sides wrong sides together, with together, tack the short sides of the raw edges aligned, and the neckband piece together to make a press. Topstitch around the band, ring, then press the seam open.

4mm from the folded edge.

Pin the neckband to the neckline of the body, right sides together, matching the raw edges and aligning the centre-back seams. Tack, then sew.

SELVEDGES

l This smart top is perfect for both work and play! The pattern includes four pieces: the front, back, sleeve and neckband. Remember to flip the template in order to cut a pair of both the back and sleeve pieces. l Before you start, locate a safety pin and stitch unpicker, then put aside. l Use a zigzag stitch or overlocker when finishing the raw edges. l When pinning the sleeves to the top, join them as indicated by the notches on the template. l After Step 8, try your top on in case it needs any adjustment. Once you’re happy, continue stitching the ends of the elastic together.

BACK

Finish the raw edges, then press the seam allowance towards the body. Topstitch on the right side, 4mm from the neckband and neckline seam. Press.

Using a stitch unpicker, open the centre-back neckband seam by enough to insert elastic into the channel. Feed elastic through using a safety pin.

Stitch the elastic ends together and feed into the channel. Sew the opening closed by hand. Stitch a 2cm hem at the base and sleeve cuffs.

Stitching a waist-tie

FOLD

3 SLEEVE

TIE

4

Lay the pattern pieces out on your fabric as shown.

10

Fold the tie strip in half lengthways, right sides together, Pin, then sew along the raw edges, leaving a 2cm gap in the middle for turning.

11

Leave long threads at each end and tie one onto a chunky blunt-ended needle.

Feed this into the tie and bring it out through the opening.

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12

Repeat for the other side to turn the tie right side out, then press. Sew the opening closed by hand. then wrap the tie around the waist of the top.

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

SHOPPER

************************

DOROTHY WATTON In rich purple, mauve and ivory shades, this Liberty Tana lawn has a pretty feathery design. £15.95 per metre, sewbox.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

Dream

MACHINE Skirt, £29.99, TK Maxx

FEEL ENLIGHTENED If you’re in the market for an overlocker, Babylock’s enlighten model will help you get that pro finish in no time at all! £1.349, babylock.co.uk

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SEW DEC 2017 master_SEW 02/11/2017 16:42 Page 42

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VOTE ONLINE NOW! SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS

BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017 Vote for your favourite stitching brands,

personalities and haberdashers in the British Sewing Awards and you could win goodies worth £300+

T

he nominations stage of the British Sewing Awards 2017 is now over – thank you to everyone who let us know their favourite sewing brands, products, personalities and more. It’s now time to start voting – either fill in the form overleaf or visit sewmag.co.uk/awards, and you’ll receive the FREE pattern to make Alice, our cute flowerchild doll.

WHAT’S MORE, YOU’LL BE ENTERED INTO OUR PRIZE DRAW TO WIN A BUMPER BUNDLE OF GOODIES, WORTH £300+ INCLUDING:

Vote NOW to receive your FREE Alice pattern!

An OttLite 2-in-1 LED sewing machine light, that includes two interchangeable heads – an illuminated magnifier and book light. £24, cjbeaders.com

A £50 shopping voucher from Dotcomgiftshop, which offers a huge range of gorgeous gifts. dotcomgiftshop.com

PLUS! A mystery bundle of sewing goodies, worth £200!

A £50 shopping voucher from The Contemporary Home, to spend on their wide collection of beautiful homewares. tch.net 43

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FORM OVERLEAF

VOTE ONLINE NOW! SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS Voting form PRODUCTS

Best New Product for 2017 ❑ Bernina Adjustable Ruler Foot #72 ❑ Clover Wonder Clips ❑ Creative Grids Non-Slip Rulers ❑ Fiskars Rotating Cutting Mat ❑ Prym Soft Comfort Thimble Best fabric brand ❑ Cotton + Steel ❑ Lewis & Irene ❑ Liberty of London ❑ Makower UK ❑ Moda Fabric Best major pattern house ❑ Burda ❑ Butterick ❑ McCall’s ❑ Simplicity ❑ Vogue Best independent pattern house ❑ Cashmerette ❑ Sew Me Something ❑ Sew Over It ❑ Six Penny Memories ❑ Tilly and the Buttons Best thread brand ❑ Aurifil ❑ Gütermann ❑ Madeira ❑ Mettler ❑ YLI

FAVOURITE SEWING MACHINES Tick the model under the brand you own to vote for it!

Bernina ❑ Aurora 440QE ❑ 1008 ❑ 330 ❑ 770QE ❑ 830 Brother ❑ FS130QC ❑ Innov-is F420 ❑ Innov-is V3 ❑ Innov-is 350SE ❑ Innov-is 955 Husqvarna ❑ Designer Diamond Royale ❑ Designer Jade 35 ❑ Rose 600 ❑ Sapphire 870Q ❑ Sapphire 965Q Janome ❑ Atelier 5 ❑ CXL301 ❑ DC3050 ❑ DKS100 ❑ TXL607

South of England ❑ Crafty Baba, Ipswich ❑ Lady Sew and Sew, Henley-on-Thames ❑ The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester ❑ Sew Creative, Petersfield ❑ The Village Haberdashery, London

Juki ❑ Exceed HZL-F600 ❑ HZL-353Z ❑ HZL-DX7 ❑ MO-1000 ❑ TL98 Pfaff ❑ Creative 4.5 ❑ Passport 2.0 ❑ Performance 5.0 ❑ Quilt Expression 4.2 ❑ Smarter 160S

North of England ❑ BST Fabrics, South Shields ❑ Dollys Haberdashery and Sewing School, Warrington ❑ Fabworks Mill Shop, Dewsbury ❑ The Fat Quarters, Newcastle-upon-Tyne ❑ Simply Solids, Huddersfield

Singer ❑ Confidence 7463 ❑ Confidence 7465 ❑ One Plus ❑ Stitch Sew Quick ❑ 99K Hand Crank

ONLINE

Best online retailer ❑ Jaycotts ❑ Lady Sew and Sew ❑ Minerva Crafts ❑ Quilt Direct ❑ Sew Over It

Toyota ❑ Ergo 26D ❑ Oekaki Renaissance ❑ RS2000 ❑ SLR4D MK2 ❑ SJ15

Best sewing blog ❑ Debbie Shore ❑ The Fold Line ❑ Sew Over It ❑ Tilly and the Buttons ❑ Very Berry Handmade

RETAILERS Best UK chain ❑ Abakhan ❑ Fabric Land ❑ Hobbycraft ❑ John Lewis ❑ Sew Over It

Best Instagram ❑ The Fold Line ❑ Lauren Guthrie ❑ Hollies Haberdashery ❑ Sew Over It ❑ Tilly and the Buttons

Northern Ireland

❑ Craftswoman Fabrics, Carrickfergus ❑ Mrs Sew’n’Sew, Portadown ❑ Paragon Fabrics, Belfast ❑ Sew ‘n’ Knit, Lisburn ❑ Sew Unique Fabrics, Bangor Midlands ❑ The Cotton Patch, Birmingham ❑ Crafty Sew & So, Leicester ❑ Guthrie & Ghani, Birmingham ❑ Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastle-under-Lyme ❑ Sew Me Something, Stratford-upon-Avon

RESOURCES & ACTIVITIES Most inspirational sewing personality ❑ Lisa Comfort ❑ Stuart Hillard ❑ Jennie Rayment ❑ Debbie Shore ❑ Tilly Walnes

Scotland ❑ Butterfly Fabrics, Inverurie ❑ The Dress Fabric Company, Edinburgh ❑ Holm Sown, Castle Douglas ❑ Mandors Fabric Store, Glasgow ❑ Number 29, Fochabers

Favourite sewing book 2017 ❑ Complete Dressmaking by Jules Fallon ❑ Half Yard Vintage by Debbie Shore ❑ Girl With A Sewing Machine by Jenniffer Taylor ❑ THE MAKER’S ATELIER: The Essential Collection by Frances Tobin ❑ Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts by Stuart Hillard

Wales ❑ Butterfly Fabrics, Cardiff ❑ Calico Kate, Lampeter ❑ The Cotton Angel, Monmouth ❑ Lee Mill Fabrics, Swansea ❑ White Gecko Craft Lounge, Dinas Powys

Top sewing workshops/courses ❑ Dolly’s Haberdashery and Sewing School, Warrington: Garment Making ❑ Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastleunder-Lyme: Tilly and the Buttons Bettine Dress

❑ Lady Sew and Sew, Henley on

Thames: Twirling Stars by Jennie Rayment ❑ The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester: Beginners Quilting ❑ Sew Creative, Petersfield: Make a Quilt in a Day Best exhibition/event 2017 ❑ Festival of Quilts, NEC Birmingham ❑ Handmade Fair, Hampton Court ❑ Hobbycrafts, NEC Birmingham ❑ Knitting & Stitching Show, Olympia ❑ Quilts UK, Malvern Most outstanding Sew Saturday event 2016 ❑ Guthrie & Ghani, Moseley, Birmingham ❑ Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastleunder-Lyme ❑ The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester ❑ Sew Creative, Petersfield ❑ Sew Busy, Fleet, Hampshire

YOUR DETAILS Title................Forename..........................

Surname......................................................

Address........................................................ ......................................................................... ......................................................................... .........................................................................

Postcode......................................................

Tel number...................................................

Email..............................................................

Signature......................................................

Date...............................................................

❑ Tick this box and include your email

address below to receive the Alice Flowerchild project and pattern once the voting stage closes on 14th December 2017.

CLOSING DATE: 14th DECEMBER 2017 FOR VOTES

TERMS & CONDITIONS: All entries will be entered into the prize draw which is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies and their families. Only one entry per person. The prizes are are an OttLite 2-in-1 LED sewing machine light worth £24, a Dotcomgiftshop voucher worth £50, a voucher from The Contemporary Home worth £50, and a bundle of sewing products worth £200, and cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced with any other item. Illegible entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. No responsibility will be held for entries lost, delayed or damaged. By entering these votes, you are agreeing to Aceville Publications Ltd and sister companies being able to contact you.

Entries will be selected at random within 28 days of the closing date. No correspondence will be entered into. CLOSING DATE: 14th December 2017.

Winner will be notified by post, phone or email. The winners’ names will be available on request from Zoe Charge, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY.

Please send completed forms to: 44

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!

Marketing Dept, British Sewing Awards 2017, Aceville Publications Ltd, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, CO2 8JY

SEW DEC 2017 master_SEW 02/11/2017 16:43 Page 45

Fiskars would like to thank Sew readers for the nomination in the Best New Product for 2017 category

Perfectly precise 14" x 14" mat rotates to help you cut squares of fabric at easier angles.

Self-healing mat provides a cutting surface that lasts longer than others.

Easy-to-read measuring grid makes accurate measurements a snap.

30-, 45- and 60-degree bias lines make creating triangle and star shapes easy.

sewing

SoS

Stay cosy with our experts’ advice on stitching your own winter coat

Q

What are the best fabrics for making warm winter coats, and what should I know about sewing them?

Tartan wool tweed in dark red, £29.50 per metre

Pamela Binning

Dorte says

Winter coats can be made from a variety of wool and wool-blend fabrics. Our 100% boiled wool, a knit fabric that has been exposed to heat and water to become felted, works really well for a stylish medium weight winter coat. It is easy to sew, has a little stretch to it and doesn’t fray either, so is perfect for unfinished raw edges and unlined garments. At Dragonfly Fabrics, our boiled wool comes in over 25 colours – we really like deep cerise or bright turquoise for cheering up winter days, whilst light pink will easily take you from winter through to spring.

If you want a heavier weight coat, we recommend 100% pure wool tweed for keeping you toasty. Our herringbone varieties in grey, black or green would be perfect for a classic winter overcoat, or the lovely tartan wool tweed in dark red is perfect for those who want a splash of colour. When sewing winter coats, simplicity is often the key to success – but there are always extra details that you can add, such as pockets, a collar or cuffs.

Wool herringbone tweed in green, £24.90 per metre

Boiled wool in deep cerise, £29.80 per metre

Boiled wool in bright turquoise, £29.80 per metre

All fabrics from dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Q

I’d like to stitch a long JACKET. are there any patterns out there that suit the latest trends?

Alison Hinckley

Kate says

The great thing about long coats is that if you go for a classic design it’s guaranteed to never go out of style! There are some great patterns out there, so you are sure to find something that you like, whatever your taste.

If you’re looking for a double-breasted tailored coat, consider Vogue’s V1562. This smart knee-length design features a back belt, and is lined for a professional finish. If you’re after something with a more relaxed fit, Londres by French pattern company Orageuse would work well too. It’s styled after the classic trench coat and although it is unlined, an optional lining kit is available if you wish to add it. Alternatively, if you’ve found a shorter pattern that you like the look of, another option would be to simply extend it to the length you want!

Londres coat, £7.58 (PDF), orageuse.com 46

sewmag.co.uk Sewing SOS Dec.indd 46

03/11/2017 09:33

here to

help

DORTE HEATON

KATE UNDERDOWN

The founder, creative director and fabric buyer for Dragonfly Fabrics, which offers a wide range of boiled wool, jerseys and much more.

Co-founder of online community The Fold Line, where you can find helpful advice and discuss your latest project with fellow stitchers.

dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

thefoldline.com

Q

What tips can you offer for insulating and underlining a coat so it keeps me warm?

Joanne Webster

Lisa says

Making a coat is lots of fun and a big milestone on your journey to a handmade wardrobe. Choosing the right fabric plays an important role in the warmth of your new garment.

I recommend one that is tightly woven – a boiled or Melton wool will almost always be warmer than a boucle, as they don’t let the wind in.

I’d always suggest lining a winter coat – although standard linings aren’t thick, they do make a difference to the garment’s warmth. Synthetic fabrics will keep you cosier than natural fibres, so I like to choose a polyester or acetate lining for coats. As they have a smooth texture, they also help the coat to glide on and off over bulky winter clothes.

Instead of a traditional lining, you could instead underline your coat with something extra warm, such as flannel.

It’ll not only keep you toasty, but will also add an extra element of comfort to your coat. Remember to use a smooth-feeling fabric for the arms though, otherwise you’ll struggle to get it on and off!

LISA COMFORT

Owner of London shop, Sew Over It, offering in-store and online classes, plus her own range of garment patterns.

top 4

sewoverit.co.uk

Lint Removers

We’ve all been in that situation where you’re ready to go out, only to find that your outfit is covered in hair from an over-affectionate pet or fluff from your favourite jumper.

Fortunately, there are various products that can sweep away these imperfections, leaving your garments looking as good as new – here’s a few of the best...

Adhesive solution Clothes Roller Dust, Hair & Lint Fluff Remover, £2.99

Clothes shaver Lakeland Bobble Buster, £8.99

Pet hair buster

tip!

Press seams on coat collars and corners with tools such as seam rolls plus tailor's hams, clappers and boards.

Chloe coat online class, £40, sewoverit.co.uk

OXO Good Grips Fur Lifter Lint Remover, £11.99

Two-in-one gadget The Gleener Fuzz Remover, £19.99

ALL OF THE ABOVE PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE FROM LAKELAND.CO.UK 47

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Sewing SOS Dec.indd 47

03/11/2017 09:35

Who taught you to sew?

This is one of our favourite questions because the answers we hear always remind us that our craft is forged and fuelled by a meeting of minds.

We sewists may be fewer in numbers than in the generations before us, but we’re more passionate and dedicated than ever before.

This is because since it’s been taken off the curriculum, we’ve had to go out of our way to learn, often turning to friends and family to teach us.

Perhaps you learned from a relative, or got into sewing after inheriting a machine from a loved one. Having that special connection heightens our enjoyment, so the best gift we can give to another person is that same experience.

You don’t need to be a tutor to give the gift of sewing – there are plenty of ideas out there for sharing your knowledge, whether the lucky recipient has never sat at a sewing machine before or if they’ve been stitching for years. The most important thing is that you’ll enjoy spending quality time together, developing a shared interest, creating fond memories and having a few laughs along the way.

GIVE THE GIFT OF

Sewing Stitch a friend an outfit and you dress them for a day, teach them to sew and you dress them for a lifetime...

WORDS BY EMMA THOMPSON

For the newbie stitcher...

Helping someone get started is a great feeling, but take care not to overwhelm or put them off! Start simple and try to remember some of the questions you had as a beginner or things you wish you’d been told. This can also be a good refresher for you in consolidating your basic techniques.

LESSON PLAN

l Sewing machine 101: teach them the different parts of a machine, how to thread it up, and good maintenance practices l Sew a simple tote bag: it’s a good idea to start with a quick project ASAP, so your student will get the satisfaction of making a completed item!

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A beginner-friendly sewing machine like the new Brother L14S and a personal lesson (use our fun coupon on the right!) would make an ideal Christmas gift for getting someone started. It has 14 built-in stitches, a top-loading bobbin and comes with three presser feet. £99, brothersewing.co.uk

Mum’s the word

For the improver...

My Mam taught herself how to sew and believed everyone should learn in order to be self-sufficient – she made all of our clothes. When I was ten, she taught me how to use a pattern and we made dolls’ clothes together.

Unfortunately, she died when she was only 58. I inherited the Singer sewing machine that my Dad had bought her when they got married and used it to teach my great niece to sew.

Dolores Dempsey

We all have different areas of expertise, so if you’re a dab-hand at pattern-matching whilst your friend has mastered invisible zippers, get together for a skill swap or book onto the same workshop to learn together.

WHAT WORKSHOP?

l Choose it wisely: ensure the lessons cover a technique or project that you both want to learn, and that they fit into your schedules and budgets l Research the workshop: find out if it’s right for you – it won’t be much of a bonding experience if you’re out of your depths

Sewing with friends is not just fun, but will really improve your skills too!

For the crafter who has it all...

Asking a more experienced sewist to share their skills with you can be a big confidence booster for them. “The Hong Kong seams on the last jacket you stitched are beautiful, would you mind showing me how you did it?” After, make a gift for them using the technique they’ve taught you as a way of saying thank you.

Here’s my Mum and me. Mum has suffered for years with rheumatoid arthritis but sewing keeps her going.

Her fingers hurt but she’s even made a wedding dress with a broken thumb.

She teaches me everything, including how to be strong. I’m so glad to have inherited her skills and love for sewing to pass down to my own children. She’s an inspiration to me.

Carrie Davies-Bateman

GREAT IDEAS Read more about DMOTY 2018 on p36!

l Introduce a new technique: nobody knows everything!

Buy your loved one a book or workshop dedicated to a subject they haven’t yet explored l Get their skills recognised: enter their best garment into our Dressmaker of the Year competition. They could be our next champion stitcher!

My lovely Mamma taught me to sew as a child. This is us together on my birthday last year, at the Knitting and Stitching Show at Alexandra Palace.

The back gates are also next door to where my Grandparents lived, where I spent most Saturdays throughout my childhood, so it was a very special day.

Joanna Gavriel

GOOD FOR ONE Sewing Lesson This voucher entitles to a

hour lesson

where I will teach them Signed Date 49

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sew gifts

DECK OUT THE ENTIRE FAMILY IN OUR

aviator hats

Prepare for the inevitable chill with Sarah Gledson’s hats – available in 11 sizes, from newborn right up to extra large adult, you really can treat every member of your clan! The outer pieces are well-suited to light to medium weight fabrics with a little structure, like corduroy, denim, felt and wool blends. For the inner lining, seek out medium to thick fabrics that will give warmth, such as faux fur or fleece.

Get started • Fabric, inner and outer * • Hook and loop (optional) * Note: amount needed depends on size: baby (35cm of each), child (40cm of each), adult (50cm of each)

Sizes

Circumference

0-3m 3-6m 6-12m 1-2 yrs 2-4 yrs 4-7 yrs 7-12 yrs SML MED LRG XL

33cm 38cm 43cm 48cm 50cm 52cm 54cm 56cm 58cm 60cm 62cm

Cutting guide OUTER AND LINING FABRICS Hat top: cut one Earflap: cut one on the fold Peak: cut one Hat side: cut two OUTER FABRIC ONLY Chin strap (optional): cut two * Note: if your lining fabric is very thick, cut the peak and earflap pieces from this material but cut the top and hat sides from a thinner fabric such as microfleece, quilting cotton or flannel

1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

The optional chin straps are ideal for youngsters with a habit of losing things!

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sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

To omit the chin straps, start at Step 4

[6] [1]

[2]

[3]

[4] [5]

[7]

Stitch a winter hat

[8]

[9]

each one to a short folded end of each strap, then sew around the edge of it to secure in place [5].

MAKE CHIN STRAPS Take your outer fabric earflap and lay it out, right side up. Place one strap on each Visit sewmag.co.uk/templates to download earflap [6], so the ‘hook’ strap is facing the and print the template. Fold the top short end earflap and so the ‘loop’ strap is facing you. of each strip down by 1cm, then press [1].

Fold each strip in half lengthways with right sides together, press, then open out [2]. Fold each long CREATE THE EARFLAPS edge inwards so it almost touches the crease, Pin the outer and inner earflap pieces right then press [3]. Re-fold along the crease so that sides together [7], then sew along the you have a four layer strap [4]. curved edge.

Topstitch close to the edge, working around Clip into the seam allowance wherever each edge except for the shorter folded end. the edge curves [8]. Turn the earflap right Cut two pieces of hook and loop tape, pin sides out.

1

3

2

4 5

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6 7 8

Press the earflap, taking care if your fabric is sensitive to heat, and topstitch along the curved edge [9].

MAKE A PEAK & JOIN TOP/SIDES Pin the inner and outer peak pieces right sides together, then sew along the curved edge. Clip as for Step 5 [10], then turn right sides out. Topstitch if desired.

Pin one long edge of the outer hat top to the curved edge of one side piece, right sides together, easing the fabric as you go and pinning the centre first, then each end, before the rest of the edge [11].

sew gifts

[10]

[11]

[13]

9

Repeat for the second side of your hat outer and turn right sides out. Press the seams towards the centre and topstitch [12]. Repeat Step 8 for the inner fabric, leaving a 5cm gap for turning.

JOIN PEAK, EARFLAPS & LINING

10

Mark the centre of the peak’s straight edge. Pick one side of the hat top to be the front; mark the centre. Place the peak against the front, right sides together, matching the centres with the raw edges facing the same way. Pin along the peak’s straight edge [13]. Mark the centre of the straight earflap edge, then the centre of the hat outer at the back.

[14]

[12]

[15]

11

Place the earflap and hat back right sides together. Match the centres and pin along the straight earflap edge. Tack around the entire bottom edge of the hat to attach the peak and earflap. Place the hat outer inside the hat inner, right sides together, leaving the earflap and peak tucked away [14].

Pin around the bottom of the hat, then sew, catching all the layers as you go.

Turn right sides out through the hole in the lining. Topstitch around the seam you just stitched on the upper side, starting and finishing at the front. Sew the hole in the lining closed by hand. Tack the peak near each top seam to hold it up [15].

12

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why not try...

CUDDLE FACTOR Keep your ears toasty with this coral fleece in melange. £7.75 per meter STRIKE A CORD Contrast with corduroy in light powder. £11.50 per meter Both fabrics are available at stoffstil.co.uk

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E y t i N v i t I a e r H c r C u o y A h s a e M Unl

r u o y e v o L ENJOY DISNEY MAGIC!

INNOV-IS M280D

Disney fans will love this compact sewing and embroidery machine, which offers 125 built-in embroidery patterns – 45

of which feature Disney’s most popular characters. You can also choose from 181 sewing stitches, and benefit from features such as an auto thread cutter and needle threader, plus a USB port to load up even more designs.

Price: £899

Sew to perfection with a Brother model

INNOV-IS 27SE

This versatile model includes an electronic jog dial to easily choose from 50 stitch patterns, including five buttonholes. The back-lit LCD screen provides information about your chosen stitch, whilst a built-in automatic needle threading system and quick-set bobbin makes it easy to get started on your next project. Price: £349

MAKE SEWING EASY

3034DWT

Designed for finishing the edges and hems of a wide range of fabrics and creating decorative finishes, this overlocker features a colour-coded lay-in threading guide and lower looping threading system. Plus, you simply lift away the flat bed to access the free arm, making it easier to sew sleeves, cuffs and children’s clothing.

Price: £279

GET A PRO FINISH

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sew PROMOTION

“The CV3550 coverstitch machine offers a high quality, sophisticated finish” The new coverstitch model from Brother is unique for a domestic model as it offers both single sided and double sided coverstitches.

Beginners who have never used one before will find it easy to use and jam-packed with a variety of user-friendly features. The tension is pre-set to suit most fabrics, so it doesn’t require adjustment to get the perfect stitch. Meanwhile, the presser foot lever and all of the levers and dials are conveniently placed to ensure ease of use. The small free arm allows you to work coverstitch on even the smallest of items, such as baby or dolls’ clothes.

KEY FEATURES: 3 Easy threading 3 Clear presser foot 3 Looper thread tension for fine adjustment 3 Large workspace 3 Threading guide 3 Small free arm 3 Pre-set thread tension £599, brothersewing.co.uk, 0333 777 4444

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WHAT’S ON OFFER?

The Stitch X Stitch team in Stowmarket, Suffolk, have a passion for all things stitchy – offering sewing machines, fabrics, plus sewing and quilting classes that are very much focused on having fun. The shop is an authorised dealer of Brother and Husqvarna sewing machines, overlockers and Horn Furniture, and also the sole UK stockist of the SCREW-B-DO, the world’s best miniature screwdriver – a ‘musthave’ accessory for your sewing machine. In addition, you’ll find a wide range of fabrics from well-known brands such as Dashwood, Moda, Michael Miller, Tilda and Northcott to name but a few – plus a wide selection of haberdashery, sewing patterns and knitting yarn.

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3A uthorised Brother and Husqvarna dealers 3F ree unlimited tuition with every machine purchase 3 S ewing machine and overlocker servicing 3W ide range of sewing classes 3H uge range of fabrics, haberdashery and tools Visit Stitch X Stitch, 24 Bury Street, Stowmarket, Suffolk, IP14 1HH. Alternatively, visit stitchxstitch.co.uk or call 01449 257070.

h s a t myrset... sec

INNOV-IS V3

Create beautiful projects with this long-arm model, which offers more than 200 built-in embroidery designs and a 18cm x 30cm sewing area for larger projects.

It also works at a speedy 1050 stitches per minute and features an auto thread cutter, plus thread sensors, auto-tensioning and easy threading.

Price £1,999

EDITOR’S PICK!

Sew reader, Sharon Bragg says...

“My husband bought me a Brother FS40 and it’s amazing. It’s my first computerised machine and everything is so easy to use, like the slide speed control.

The stitch length option is really useful and I can’t wait to use the other stitch features. I’ve just completed ten dresses for my daughter’s wedding – I love it!”

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YOUR FREE GIFT from ! *

C

elebrating its 90th anniversary, Simplicity is marking the milestone this Christmas by treating you to your choice of FREE* pattern, worth up to £8.95! All you need to do is visit the Simplicity website simplicitynewlook.com, search for the pattern number, then enter the code LOVESIMPLICITY at the checkout to claim yours – just pay postage. Best of all, there’s a choice of ten different patterns, so whatever you fancy stitching this winter, we’ve got all bases covered!

We’ve handpicked a variety of patterns to suit every occasion!

1318

Four easy kimonos to stitch and wear!

8229

8223

Make an undie set with lingerie designer Madalynne.

8134

Knit tops with Disney appliqués for all ages.

Simple-sew trouser and short options.

8023

A waistcoat, dicky bow and ties for the guys.

8061

Build your wardrobe with six styles of top!

3935

8269

Easy PJs for children, teens and adults.

Loungewear for all of the family.

1133

8087

A onepattern-piece jiffy dress, plus trousers.

EXCLUSIVE PATTERN WITH BLOGGER DOTTIE ANGEL!

A dress, top and tunic for both mums and daughters.

* Terms and conditions: The Simplicity pattern giveaway is open to UK residents only, aged 18 or over. The promotion applies to a choice of ten Simplicity patterns: 1133, 3935, 8061, 8223, 8269, 8134, 8023, 8229, 1318, 8087. Only one free pattern per household will be issued. The promotion is available while stocks last. Postage and packing costs apply, as outlined on Simplicity’s website. The free pattern promotion is only valid from www.simplicitynewlook.com and cannot be redeemed from any other stockists or online retailers. No cash alternatives will be offered. The pattern detailed in Sew magazine cannot be exchanged for goods, or towards the purchase of goods at any retail outlet and are subject to availability. Patterns cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced if lost or damaged. Entries that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. The Simplicity free pattern promotion is valid from the 15th November - 14th December 2017. The Promoter will use entrants’ personal details in accordance with the Aceville Privacy Policy. This is a limited offer and may be withdrawn at any time.

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Sew with

EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW

just for

Develop your skills and style with the pattern house’s latest designs!

sew

H

ere at Sew HQ, we’re lucky enough to get sneak previews of Simplicity’s up-and-coming patterns... it’s a hard life, we know. That’s why we thought we’d share a few of our favourites with you! Whatever your skill level, these designs will allow you to build an even bigger handmade wardrobe – just how you like it! Have fun choosing details that suit you, then work together with the pattern to get the best fit – all in your favourite fabric, of course.

STITCH A PARTY DRESS

Simplicity offers four styles in its latest dress pattern 8511, with a choice of high-impact details that add interest to the classic silhouette. Try ruffles, openings and flounces – all promise to give a sense of fun to your garment, which will soon become a go-to!

WEAR THE TROUSERS

If you’ve been putting off stitching trousers, let Simplicity 8514 talk you round. With customisable pattern pieces and innovative construction techniques, this pair will fit like a dream and have you hooked at first stitch.

SEW A VINTAGE NUMBER

Channel Hollywood’s most glamorous stars by recreating vintage styles from the 1930s through to the 50s. The designs are authentic in design, yet wearable for the modern woman – here, the 8530 pattern includes a bolero, wrap and warm scarf!

MAKE YOUR FIRST JEANS

If you struggle to buy a good-fitting pair of jeans, making your own might be the way forward.

Try your hand at Simplicity 8516, produced with blogger Mimi G who takes you through step-by-step in her online videos!

EXPECTED RELEASE DATE: MID TO LATE NOVEMBER! 59

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Get started • Cotton duck (150cm wide), 60cm • Webbing, 3m • Four gold snaps, 12.5mm

Cutting guide GUARDS BAG Bag front and back: cut two 45cm x 47cm pieces Pocket: cut one 22cm x 30cm Strap: cut two 145cm lengths of webbing SPOT BAG Bag front and back: cut two 44cm x 55cm pieces Pocket: cut one 26cm square Strap: cut two 145cm lengths of webbing 5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

BRUSH UP YOUR BAG-MAKING SKILLS TO STITCH

Cath Kidston tote bags

Totes are a great introduction to sewing your own bags, being simple to construct and useful for when you're on-the-go. These stylish versions

by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier are sewn from Cath Kidston cotton duck, – a sturdy, tightly woven material that will stand up to carrying heavier loads. These designs provide the opportunity to use French seaming to finish the inside neatly. As this material frays easily, remember to use a stitch length of 2mm throughout.

Sew a shopper

1

Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide. Fold a 1cm hem at the top edge of the main bag pieces, press, then repeat along the top 22cm edge of the pocket. Attach the male half of a snap centrally through the right side of the pocket, 1.5cm from the top. Position the pocket to the middle of the bag front so the lower edges are flush, then attach the female half of the snap centrally to the right side of the main bag.

Tack the pocket in place.

Pin a webbing strap on the right side of the bag front, beginning at the base and covering the side of the pocket piece, with the end lining up with the bag base. Repeat with the other end of the strap along the opposite side of the bag. Topstitch as far as 10cm from the top along each webbing edge. Repeat for the bag back piece.

Pin the bag front and back wrong sides together. Sew around the sides and bottom with a 2.5mm seam, then turn the bag wrong sides out and sew again with a 5mm allowance to create a French seam (see Core Skills panel).

Turn the bag right sides out and gently push the corners out.

ned in to The straps on the spot bag are tur sure mea g; form handles for ease of carryin bag, fold the of top 7cm up the strap from the edge. it lengthways and topstitch close to the

2 3

Core skill: FRENCH SEAMS

Place two fabrics wrong sides together, sew a narrow seam, then turn the piece wrong sides out, roll the stitch line to the edge, then sew with a slightly wider seam allowance.

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02/11/2017 16:41

sew gifts

sew

SHOPPER

************************

You can also add a label to the centre front of the bag – stamp a motif onto scrap leather, trim and sew in place.

SOLDIER ON Guards cotton duck.

SPOT CHECK Spot cotton duck in stone.

Both are £20 per metre, cathkidston.com

Perfect

PARTNER CLOVER MINI IRON II This would be useful for pressing the French seams inside the bags. £39.99, createandcraft.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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SEW DEC 2017 master_SEW 03/11/2017 10:47 Page 62

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the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month JUST BE CLAUS by Robin Kingsley Keen needleworkers will love this title, which is jam-packed with simple projects starring the main man of the festive period, Santa Claus! From wall hangings and ornaments to tea towels and cushions, you'll find a variety of gifts and home decor that can be customised by mixing and matching the motifs. As a bonus, it includes helpful step-by-step guides to the embroidery stitches used.

Martingale & Company, £21.99, roundhousegroup.co.uk

EAST-MEETS-WEST QUILTS by Patricia Belyea For those who want to stretch their quilting skills further, expert Patricia Belyea introduces the concept of 'improv quilting' – where the design develops organically as you cut and stitch. There are 14 beautiful quilts to use as starting points, combining authentic Japanese cottons with contemporary fabrics, Abrams and Chronicle, £19.99, abramsandchronicle.co.uk

MY HANDMADE WORLD by Giovanna Monfeli This has to be the ultimate stash-buster title, with 15 adorable home decor and gift projects to sew with oddments of fabric. From soft toys and pillows to doorstops and bookends, each project offers clear step-by-step instructions, colour photos and full-size pull-out patterns, helping you to reach the top of your fabric mountain in no time! Meteoor Books, £16.99, abramsandchronicle.co.uk

NEEDLE LACE TECHNIQUES FOR HAND EMBROIDERY

by Hazel Blomkamp Learn how to weave beautiful lacy motifs with Hazel Blomkamp's step-by-step guide, featuring more than 40 key techniques, many of which have been adapted from original 19th century designs. The methods are laid out with comprehensive instructions and diagrams, providing an essential guide to this branch of hand embroidery.

Search Press, £12.99, searchpress.com

STASH-BUSTING QUILTS by Annie's Quilting Here's another book to help those of us drowning in offcuts, this time for quilters who want to use up their leftovers yet still achieve a coordinated effect. There are nine lovely designs to choose from in this book, all of which feature simple blocks. You'll also find advice on combining colours, plus instructions for basic quilting techniques such as appliqué.

Annie's Publishing, £9.99, searchpress.com

THE FASHION DESIGN COURSE by Steven Faerm If you don't have time to go back to school and designing clothes is your passion, this title offers an insightful guide on how to break into the fashion industry. It contains inspiring interviews with professionals, plus practical exercises and tutorials to help you develop your knowledge, build a portfolio and prepare for interviews to follow your dream career.

Thames & Hudson, £16.95, thameshudson.com

Look out for Debbie's bag project next issue!

THE BAG BOUTIQUE by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier You can never have too many bags, so make all of the 20 lovely designs by Sew designer Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, from cute little clutches to voluminous shopping totes. Each comes with indepth step-by-step instructions, plus illustrated guides for all of the key techniques, from construction to embellishments such as embroidery, appliqué, crocheted flowers and beaded charms.

Search Press, £14.99, searchpress.com

Editor’s pick

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The Bookshelf 105.indd 64

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sew PEOPLE Pine cone garland, £4.99, tkmaxx.com

This year I’m using wood rounds as place settings.

I can’t get enough of Heidi Swapp’s minc reactive foil in gold! £9 per 31cm x 3m roll, hobbycraft.co.uk

Wilko Radiance collection, from £2, wilko.com

At home with...

Laura Ashley red spruce ring candle, £16, laurashley.com

(C) photographed by Rachel Whiting.

STUART HILLARD This winter I’m loving lagom in just the right amount!

As a self-professed and lifelong foodie, the Christmas feasts are without a doubt my favourite part of the whole celebration.

I can live without gifts and the snow... or rather the distinct lack of snow won’t dampen my spirits so long as I get to spend time with the ones I love whilst enjoying some fabulous food. Because of this, the dining table is always the centre of my festivities and where I tend to spend most of my time. Last year, winter was all about ‘hygge’ – that Scandinavian sense of cosiness, warmth and contentment. I’ll certainly be embracing that feeling again this season with plenty of candles, mulled spices, and a stack of logs ready to throw on the fire.

FESTIVE SCHEMING ‘Lagom’, the state of ‘not too little, not too much, but just right’, is a concept that even Goldilocks herself might find difficult to achieve at Christmas... but I’ve decided that this year I’m going to give it a go. I naturally focus a lot of my efforts around Christmas Eve and Day – and really only cater for a couple of meals, albeit huge ones! There is inevitably far too much food, but this excess is balanced out by the days of eating leftovers that follow. This December, my plan for the Christmas table takes inspiration from the snow-laden forests of Scandinavia; white cloth and napkins never

fail to create an effortlessly chic base, and I’ve asked my father-in-law to slice an old tree trunk into inchthick discs to use as place settings. In my books, the contrast of gnarly bark and smooth wood with white china and shiny silverware just works a treat! I also love scouring the woods at this time of year for fallen pinecones and seeking out fresh greens from the garden, which include the usual holly, ivy and pine branches, of course. Together with spiky rosemary fronds, these all make for decor that is both homespun and opulent… not too little, not too much.

“Lagom, the state of not too little, not too much, but just right, is a concept that even Goldilocks herself might find difficult to achieve at Christmas” HANDMADE TOUCH Sewing your own tablecloth is a quick and easy way to make your own Christmas more handmade. It simply involves pressing and stitching the hem in your preferred choice of fabric. For my table, I’ll be using a beautiful plain white cotton cloth that’s been embellished with the hot-foil-fused names of all my guests. I’ve found that it’s important to pre-wash new fabric before attempting to fuse anything to it as the

Hurrah, mulled wine season is upon us! chemicals found in newly purchased materials can prevent the adhesives from doing their job. I’ll type the name of each guest in a nice large size then print it out. Most computer fonts don’t go big enough, so you can scan and enlarge the letters until they are the right size and then – this bit is crucial – you have to mirror image the letters. If you’re unable to do this, you could just flip your sheet of paper the other way and the letters should be visible enough from the other side. Trace the mirrored letters onto the paper side of fusible web, cut them out roughly, then arrange onto the tablecloth right above where each guest’s place setting will be. Afterwards, fuse the letters down with an iron on a cotton setting; then you need to be patient and wait until it has cooled completely before you peel the backing paper away, and just the glue will be left behind. The letters should be the right way round now! Finally, place a sheet of metallic transfer foil over the top, cover with a sheet of baking parchment, and iron again to fuse the foil to each letter. I’ve used rose gold, but any metallic to match your decor would look dazzling! I hope you have a wonderful time this Christmas and have just enough of all the things that make you happy.

Till next month!

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 65

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03/11/2017 09:50

8 stitchy gift wraps Get started • Fabric • Felt • Embroidery thread • Buttons • Basket or small tub

Whether you’re making or buying Christmas gifts this year, or doing a bit of both, give them an extra special fabric touch with some handmade wrapping.

These clever ideas are perfect for the festivities, but you can come back to them time and time again for any future gifting occasion!

Sew a fabric bag Size: 12cm diameter Height: 12.5cm (excl. handles) Note: 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then use it to cut out one pair of bags and one base each from spotty and gold fabric. Pin the outer bag pieces right sides together and sew up as far as the notches. Repeat for the lining. Press the seams open, then fold the seam allowance over at the ends of the handles on the lining.

Turn the lining right sides out and slip it inside the spotty bag, matching the

2

side seams and handle edges.

Pin, then stitch around the handles. Clip the curved seam allowances on both sides of the bag, then turn right sides out.

Point out the seams crisply, then press flat.

Turn the bag lining right sides out, place onto the wrong side of the outer base, then edge stitch the pieces together. Make small clips into the edges of the base pieces to indicate the half and quarter positions, as marked on the template. Repeat on the base of the bag to mark midway between the side seams. Match the notches of the base and main bag, pin, then stitch in place.

3

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

For the triangle bunting, we omitted the buttons and space between, using more motifs in alternating colours.

Make a festive trim Cut a number of trees, flags or leaves from felt using these templates – we used five motifs for a 10cm square gift. Use a 1m length of embroidery thread to sew through the first motif, leaving a 15cm tail.

Add a button, leave a Templates length of thread, then continue with FLAG another shape.

LEAF Repeat until you have TREE the desired length, leaving enough thread for wrapping.

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Make a bottle wrap

1

Place your bottle in the middle of a 70cm square of fabric.

2

Tie an overhand knot with one left and one right corner.

BOTTLE WRAP

BOOK WRAP

3

Tie in a reef knot to create a handle (see panel, right).

4

Wrap the untied corners loosely around the bottle.

DVD PAIR WRAP

BASKET WRAP

KNOW YOUR KNOTS To work a reef knot: make two overhand knots – the first, right over left and twist, then the second left over right and twist. Make sure both ends exit the knot.

5

Bring the corners round to the front and tie in a reef knot.

To work an overhand knot: form a loop, pass the end through it, then tighten to form the knot.

Book wrap

Basket wrap

DVD pair wrap

Lay a 50cm square of fabric out diagonally, place a book on top slightly to the left of the centre, then fold in the top and bottom corners to cover the book.

Gather the remaining opposite corners loosely and fold over the top of the first two. Tie the right corner in an overhand knot (see Know Your Knots panel) around the other so the fabric can be tightened by pulling the untied corner.

Place a basket or small tub in the centre of a diagonal 70cm square.

Bring the top and bottom corners over the long sides and tuck down into the base, so the bottom is completely covered.

Gather up the left and right corners and tie an overhand knot in each side, as close as possible to the basket top. Twist each length of excess fabric clockwise, bring to the centre and tie in a reef knot to make a handle.

Place two DVDs in the centre of a diagonally placed 50cm square of fabric with a 2cm gap between.

Wrap the left and right corners of the fabric over them, tucking the points underneath. Take the top and bottom corners and cross them over in the middle so the ends extend from the main wrap.

Fold one DVD over the other, take the protruding corners, pull and tie together in a reef knot on the outside of the wrapping.

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CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC

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Terms and conditions and your data protection preferences: *UK postage costs £3.99. Only 1 free fabric per customer. Orders must be received by 29th December 2017. Postal orders must be submitted with a completed coupon and a cheque or postal order for the correct amount to cover postage. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Offer subject to availability. While stocks last, we reserve the right to send an alternative fabric. We can only provide refunds for damaged or faulty goods. Open to UK residents only. Please allow 28 days for delivery. If paying by cheque, delivery will be delayed until cheque is cleared. By completing this form you agree to be contacted by Aceville Publications Ltd and sister companies in line with our privacy policy, see aceville.com/privacy-policy/sew

sew kids

Sew an ocean friend

TURN TWO FAT QUARTERS INTO OUR

jolly whale

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Use it to cut a pair of whales from blue cotton and a pair of hats from red, flipping the template for the second piece to make the pair.

Back all pieces with interfacing.

Get started • Patterned cotton, 20cm x 40cm red, 20cm x 60cm blue • Fusible interfacing • 30cm ribbon • Toy stuffing • Two wooden buttons • Embroidery thread • Chunky white yarn

If you’re yet to get going on your Christmas stitching, don’t fret – it’s not too late to whip up a handmade gift! With no fiddly limbs to contend with, this easy whale toy by Kajsa Kinsella can be made up in no time and is perfect for little ones of all ages – embroider the eyes if you’re planning on making for a new arrival.

Size

sew

19cm x 21cm 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

2

Fold in the bottom edge of each hat piece by 5mm, then iron flat.

Attach ribbon across, leaving 1cm excess at each side. Pin the hats right sides together then sew all around, except for at the base. Turn right sides out, trim the edges, then gently stuff.

3

Use embroidery thread to work a smile in running stitch and add a button eye on each side. Place the whales right sides together and sew around, leaving a small gap at the bottom. Turn right sides out, stuff, then slip stitch the gap closed.

4

Wrap yarn around a fork 15 times, then tie tightly across the centre.

Remove from the fork, then snip through each end, either side of the tie.

Neaten, then sew to the end of the hat.

Sew the hat to the head by hand.

Leave out the hat for an even easier make and to remove the festive element

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the

FABRIC EDIT Christmas Wonderland greeting card, £1.75, dotcomgift shop.com

You won’t think winter is frightful... with Studio E’s Snow Delightful...

This fabric collection captures all kinds of cute woodland creatures playing outside – wrapped up warm in their woolly hats and jumpers, of course!

Other designs include snowflakes and Fair Isle motifs in shades of blue-grey and tan, with pops of bright red for a seasonal touch.

Fair Isle Stripe in Grey

Honey the Hedgehog cushion, £12.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Folklore reindeer woolly sheep, £15, johnlewis.com

Pinecones & Berries in White Fine little day cushion cover, £28, andshine.co.uk

Reindeer Scatter Snow tipped pine cone decorations, £1 for four, wilko.com

Tossed Owls in White

Reindeer decoration, £2.95, dotcomgift shop.com

Scandi print double duvet set, £14, wilko.com

Owl doorstop, £9.99, getting personal.co.uk

Winter Owls in Trees in Grey Winter Woodland Animals in Tan

Snowflakes in Red

Visit eqsuk.com to find your nearest Studio E stockist.

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sew home

Get started • Fabric, cotton and white stretch faux fur • Felt, pink, red and green • White marabou feathers • Flat-backed polystyrene ring • Ribbon

BUST THAT STASH TO CREATE

4 last-min wreaths You don’t have to be time-rich to create unique decorations. These four festive projects are quick to make and thrifty too – choose yours depending on the scraps in your stash – or add what you have to hand!

Fluffy feathers

Red, white & blue

Wrap a 10cm wide strip of faux fur snugly around a polystyrene ring. Stitch at the back to secure. Starting at the outside, lay a feather flat and oversew centrally around the quill through the fabric. Repeat, covering the base of the previous feather and working around the ring. Stitch concentric rings to cover the wreath. Sew a ribbon loop to the reverse.

Cut a patterned red fat quarter into 12 strips with pinking shears, then repeat with a patterned white and patterned blue fat quarter. Wrap a strip around a 30cm diameter wreath, knotting it at the back. Working in the same direction, continue around the wreath, overlapping the strips so they lie flat, then trim the knots. Cut another 30cm strip of fabric to hang the wreath.

sew

SHOPPER

Winter scene

Frayed & fabulous

Join 12.5cm wide fabric strips to make a 2.7m length. Fold it in half, wrong sides together, and press. Wind the strip around the entire ring, securing each end. Pin a ribbon loop to the top. Use the bird template at sewmag.co.uk/templates to cut a pair from red fabric. Sew right sides together using a 6mm seam allowance, leaving a gap to turn it right sides out. Stuff, then sew the gap closed. Embroider eyes, then sew the bird to the wreath.

Add green felt leaves, with a running stitch along the centre.

Rip red fabric into 3cm wide strips so the edges fray. Wrap around a polystyrene ring, overlapping the layers and securing each end. Cut three small, medium and large flowers and six leaves from felt. Work blanket stitch around the smallest petals and the leaves, and oversew the edges of the largest. Stack three flowers and two leaves together and stitch a button through all layers. Sew leaves and flowers to the wreath. Add self-adhesive flat-backed gems, then a ribbon bow at the top.

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4 WAYS WITH

sew gifts

Dashwood Studio Norrland

Featuring a winter wonderland of rabbits, deer and bears set against a backdrop of trees and geometric patterns, the Norrland collection from Dashwood Studio comes in a drift of frosty shades. We gave a set of fat quarters to Sew ’s Corinne Bradd, who whipped up some fabulous last-minute gifts – a baby's bib apron, a teddy rattle that fits over a parent's wrist, a lovely drawstring bag, and even some fun neckerchiefs for your beloved pooch!

Get started

• Patterned and plain blue fabric • Upholstery weight faux suede • Piping cord, 4m • Wadding • Toy stuffing • Embroidery thread • Blue buttons: two 8mm, two 15mm, two 15mm flowers • Rattle insert

Our beautiful Podenca Maggie was rehomed from Spain earlier this year. If you’re interested in giving a Podenco a new home, visit sospodencorescue.com Psst... don’t forget to share your photos and tag us on social media!

To find your nearest Dashwood Studio stockist, visit anbo.co.uk 73

sewmag.co.uk

sew

Thanks to Janis Lea for helping us name our mascot!

Help us with suggestions for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew

free template download

Make Wishbone the bear

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Sew an apron bib Size: fits 6-18 months

Size: 22cm x 24cm

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out all of the pieces from two different prints.

Pinch the light-coloured half of each ear down the centre and stitch a 4cm dart. Pair up contrasting ears, right sides together, then sew around the curve. Clip the curves, turn right sides out, then fold in 5mm along the bottom edge and press.

Repeat for the second ear.

Pair up two contrasting arms, right sides together, and stitch, leaving a 4cm gap along the back of each one.

Clip the curves and turn right sides out. Stuff, then fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip stitch closed. Repeat for the second arm.

Pair up the body pieces, right sides together, and sew, leaving a 4cm gap along one side. Clip the curves, then turn right sides out. Stuff firmly, adding the rattle insert at this point. Fold in the edges of the gap and slip stitch closed. Pin the folded edges of the ears to the top of the head and slip stitch in place.

2

4

1

Pin the arms to each side of the body, just below the neck. Secure in place with large buttons, stitching through the buttons, arms and body from side to side using a long needle and strong thread. Work a nose in the centre of the face with satin stitch. Layer and securely sew small flower and round buttons above the nose for eyes.

Download and print the template at sewmag. co.uk/templates. Cut the apron on the fold from two contrasting fabrics. Pin one face-up onto wadding. Attach a quilting guide to your sewing machine foot, set at 3cm, and use to topstitch the two layers together in a diamond pattern. Trim the wadding to size, then pin the second apron piece to the quilted one, right sides together.

Cut two 4cm x 43cm strips of fabric. Fold in half lengthways, right sides together, then stitch down the long edge and across one end at an angle.

Turn right sides out, then press. Pin the raw ends between the two apron pieces so they sit on the corners marked with a cross on the template.

Sew around the apron, leaving the bottom tab unstitched for turning and ensuring that the ties don't get caught. Clip the curves, then turn the apron

Omit the buttons and if embroider the features r dle tod or by ba a for making

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3

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right sides out. Fold the bottom tabs in, press and topstitch the seams 5mm in from the edges.

Fold down 4cm of each neck strap and slip stitch to the reverse to create channels. Thread the ties through these so they meet at the neck – the apron size can be adjusted by letting these out as your baby grows.

4

Extra help...

It can sometimes be really helpful to see a project in action!

Before you start, why not take a look at Corinne’s step-bystep guide? You’ll find a range of videos at youtube.com/ thecraftschannel

sew gifts

ing two 4cm Make a handle by sew ric, right fab of s gle tan x 15cm rec 5mm seam, sides together with a topstitching d an then turning out g front. ba the of to the top

Prefer to use a template or making these for someone else’s pet? Check out sewmag.co.uk/ templates if unsure of their size.

We love Maggie!

Watch Corinne's onlin e tutorial at youtube.com/thecra ftschannel

Sew a reversible dog bandana

Create a drawstring bag Size: 36cm x 45cm

1

Cut two 30cm x 38cm panels from a patterned cotton, pin to wadding and zigzag stitch all around. Trim four 10cm x 38cm pieces from contrasting fabric. Zigzag stitch two of the strips onto wadding and trim to size. Fold the remaining pieces in half, wrong sides together, and tack to the bottom half of each padded strip fold to make pockets.

Cut two 3cm x 80cm pieces of fabric, fold in half right sides together and stitch along the long edge.

Turn out to make tubes, then use a safety pin to thread a double length of piping cord through each one, taking care not to twist it. Flatten the tubes and topstitch between the two cords along the entire length.

Sew one end of each draw cord to the bottom edge of the back padded section, 4cm in from the side.

Cut 5cm squares away from the four corners of a 20cm x 40cm piece of faux suede. Cut one of the squares in half diagonally to make two triangles. Place one over the end of each draw

2 3

cord and topstitch in place. Tie all of the draw cords in a loose knot to prevent them tangling.

Lay the bottom panel suede side up and secure the four padded pieces of fabric to the corresponding edges with clips, face down. Use a leather needle and 3mm straight stitch to sew the panels to the suede with a 5mm seam allowance. Open out and topstitch the seams flat, folding the suede to the fabric side. Bring the adjacent edges right sides together, matching up the bag base seam. Pin and stitch the sides with a 1cm seam allowance.

Cut two 4cm wide strips of fabric diagonally from a fat quarter and join end-to-end to make a 73cm strip of bias binding. Fold in 1cm on each short end and secure with a little glue. Fold the strip in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and tack around the top edge of the bag, leaving a small gap in the centre of the back panel.

Cut 48cm x 82cm of plain blue cotton, fold in half and sew down the

4

5

6

side and across the bottom, leaving a 10cm gap in the centre of the side. Sew across the bottom corners, 5cm from each point. Trim away the excess. Slip the lining over the bag and pin the top edges together.

Sew all around the top with a 5mm seam allowance, then turn right sides out through the gap in the lining.

Fold in the raw edges of the gap and topstitch closed before pushing the lining inside the bag.

Press the drawstring channel around the top edge and topstitch a few millimetres below this.

Use a safety pin to thread one of the draw cords through the channel and out the other side. Overlap with the raw ends of the other drawstring and sew over the join several times before pulling the cord back through the channel to hide it. Cut a 6cm x 8cm piece of leather, fold it around the two drawstrings, suede side out, and topstitch 3mm from the edges to make a comfort band.

7

8

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Size: 18cm x 31cm (excl. ties)

1

Measure your dog's neck loosely and cut two different patterned squares of fabric that are 70% of this measurement (e.g. if the neck measurement is 40cm, the squares need to be 28cm).

Cut each square in half diagonally, then pair up two contrasting triangles right sides together. Sew along the diagonal with a 5mm seam allowance.

Open out the fabric to make a square again and fold in 3cm of the dual-coloured corners. Fold the fabric again, right sides together, and sew between the two folded corners. Turn the fabric out through one of the corner gaps and press.

Cut two 5cm wide strips of fabric the same length as the side of the square. Fold each one in half, right sides together, then sew into tubes, tapering one end of each piece to close it. Trim the fabric, turn out the tubes and press to make ties.

Slip 2cm of the raw ends of the ties inside the folded in corner pieces of the bandana and pin. Topstitch around the triangle, 2mm from the edges, securing the ties as you do so.

2 3

4

MASTER FISHBONE STITCH TO EMBELLISH

Susie Johns’ OVEN MITT

Get started • Outer fabric, cotton canvas or linen, 50cm x 80cm • Lining fabric, cotton or linen, 50cm x 80cm • Fusible foam, 50cm x 80cm

Fishbone stitch creates a detailed effect and consists of parallel straight stitches that can be worked closely together or spaced out to show the fabric in between. It’s useful for filling in leaves, petals and other simple shapes and has been cleverly used here to create a fish motif – why not use the design on pot holders, tea towels and table runners to create a matching kitchen set for a loved one?

• Medium weight wadding, 50cm x 80cm • White embroidery thread • Crewel needle • Embroidery hoop • Cotton tape, 20cm (25mm wide) • Bias binding, 1.4m (25mm wide)

Cutting guide Oven mitt: cut one pair from outer fabric; plus one (minus the marked seam allowance) on the fold each from lining, foam and wadding Hand pouch: cut one pair each from outer fabric*, lining, foam and wadding *Note: embroider the motif onto outer fabric before cutting the outer hand pouch.

Size 19cm x 78cm 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Make a heatproof protector

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Trace the fish motif onto a piece of outer fabric, mount it in a hoop and prepare a crewel needle with three strands of white embroidery thread.

Embroider the tail, spine and head (see Fishbone Stitch panel, opposite), keeping the stitches close together.

When you come to the eye, change to satin stitch to fill in either side of it, changing back to fishbone stitch on the other end. Work the bones that radiate out from the spine with a single strand of thread, leaving small gaps between the stitches.

Remove the fabric from the hoop, then press. Use the hand pouch template to cut the piece, taking

2

Cotton canvas, £4.25 per half metre, fabricinspirations.co.uk

care to arrange the motif in your desired position. Repeat to make another.

Use the oven mitt template to cut the pieces according to the cutting guide. Join the two pieces along the short straight edges, sandwiching both ends of the cotton tape between the pieces to form a hanging loop. Press the seam open.

3

4

Lay the two outer fabric hand pieces face down. On top of each, layer the matching wadding and foam, then place the lining on top, right sides up. Pin, then press to fuse the foam to the lining and wadding. Repeat for the mitt pieces. Stitch bias binding around the two straight edges of the hand pieces, then pin and tack them either end of the mitt, lining sides together and matching the edges. Stitch more bias binding all around to finish.

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sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew gifts

“If using non-fusible foam, tack it to the lining and ensure it is thick enough to provide protection from hot pans. There are specialist heat resistant waddings out there to be on the safe side�

Susie Johns, Sew designer

Fishbone Stitch When working fishbone stitch on plain fabric, you will first need to draw the shape to be filled, plus a guideline down the centre. Fishbone stitch is worked from top to bottom; for the best results, work in an embroidery hoop. To begin, you may need to make a single short straight stitch, especially if you are filling a leaf or similar shape.

1

Bring the needle out at A and insert it at B, making a small straight stitch along the centre line of the shape.

2

Bring the needle out at C, on the outer edge of the shape, and insert it at D next to the base of the first stitch.

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3

Bring the needle out at E, on the outer edge of the shape and insert it at F, overlapping the base of the previous stitch.

4

Bring the needle out at G and insert it at H, overlapping the base of the previous stitch. Cover the entire shape, butting the stitches up tightly.

You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways HEALTHY BONES AND JOINTS Aching bones and joints always seem to grab us right in the middle of our latest project. LithoLexal® is here to help get our hands moving easily so we can finish our latest project in good time. The lucky winners will receive three months’ supply of both LithoLexal® Joint Health ADVANCED and LithoLexal® Bone Health OSTEOPOROTIC. Visit hollandandbarrett.com We have two bundles to give away. To enter, tick HEALTH

Worth

£164!

10 to win!

Christmas is such a busy time and, if your stitch list is anything like ours, it’s difficult to find time to sew just for fun. These kits include everything you need to decorate three jumpers with reindeer motifs (worth £14.50) and make three Scandi-style hanging decs (worth £12.95), with no precious stitching time spent looking for materials. Visit claracreate.com We have five pairs of kits to give away. To enter, tick CLARA KITS

GET COLOURFUL

Add a splash of colour to your daily dressmaking with gorgeous rose gold scissors and variegated thread, which is perfect for working with multitonal fabrics and adding interest to embroidery projects. Contact gutermann@stockist enquiries.co.uk

WIN

We have five bundles to give away.

To enter, tick GUTERMANN

5

with sew

to win!

Vlieseline interlining

Adding interlining to garments is a clever way of achieving a professional finish, so it’s always handy to have some in your stash. We have a metre each of Vlieseline’s light, medium and heavy weight interlinings, worth £11, so you’ll always have the right one to hand for your next project. Visit ladysewandsew.co.uk We have ten bundles to give away.

To enter, tick VLIESELINE

£1,560

30 metres

worth of prizes to be won!

to win!

SEWING CLOTHES FOR BARBIE

Get kitted out

6

to win!

Creating clothes for a doll is a good way to get started in dressmaking, so this book would make a great gift for a young aspiring sewist. With Sewing Clothes for Barbie, they’ll learn basic techniques with step-by-step diagrams, then stitch 24 outfits – from simple jeans and a tie-waist shirt to a formal lace dress and even a superwoman costume. £12.99, searchpress.com We have six books to give away. To enter, tick BARBIE

14 to win!

Festive fabrics

We are loving the variety of Christmas print polycottons available online at the Craft Store, perfect for all your seasonal projects. Each winner will receive at least 1.5m – but the two designs you’ll receive is completely up to Santa! Visit craftstoreuk.com We have 14 bundles to give away. To enter, tick CHRISTMAS 78

sewmag.co.uk

You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways ENGLISH GARDEN

To celebrate Liberty’s new quilting collection English Garden, we’ve teamed up with EQS to give away a bundle of the entire collection – that’s 23 fat quarters, enough to make a quilt over 2m square – to one lucky winner. Find stockists at eqsuk.com We have one fat quarter bundle to give away.

To enter, tick LIBERTY

Worth

£90!

Earth Science

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/ giveaways to win big today!

If you can’t choose which garment from the new collection

by Named is your favourite, why not make all ten?

Including a shirt, sweater, skirt, dresses, sweatpants, and even a coat, you’ll be able to create an entire capsule wardrobe and brush up on some nifty dressmaking tricks too. Visit namedclothing.com We have one bundle of eight PDF patterns to give away. To enter, tick EARTH SCIENCE

Essential goodies

Glass-headed pins are a must-have in every sewing kit, and these marbled ones by Clover will always be the ones you reach for – the same goes for Sew Easy’s new erasable quilting pencils! You’ll wonder how you ever crafted without them. Contact clover@ stockistenquiries.co.uk and groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have nine bundles to give away. To enter, tick ESSENTIALS

Worth

£89!

9 to win!

15 pairs

to win!

HOBBYCRAFTS GLASGOW

Treat yourself and a friend to a day out at Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts at the SEC Glasgow between 8th and 11th March 2018 – a fab stitchy show not to be missed. The tickets, worth £22, even get you into the Scottish Quilting Show on the same day. Visit ichfevents.co.uk We have 15 pairs of tickets to give away. To enter, tick GLASGOW

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 27.12.2017 Mark your envelope: Sew December Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

HEALTH

BARBIE

GLASGOW

GUTERMANN

CHRISTMAS

EARTH SCIENCE

CLARA KITS

LIBERTY

Name......................................................................................................................

VLIESELINE

ESSENTIALS

Address..................................................................................................................

What made you buy this month’s Sew? FREE Simplicity pattern

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other..............................................................................

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Just tick the boxes!

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Only one entry per household. Terms and conditions can be found online at sewmag.co.uk

**SEW SATURDAY dec master_SEW SATURDAY 02/11/2017 16:47 Page 80

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**SEW SATURDAY dec master_SEW SATURDAY 02/11/2017 16:48 Page 81

GREATER MANCHESTER

ESSEX

LEICESTERSHIRE

KENT

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We offer designer fabrics, wools, notions and workshops

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We also offer regular demonstrations and classes, and you are welcome to pop in at any time and use our free craft table.

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your

SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply

graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size. l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300 Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2017 All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

HIGH BUST FULL BUST

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over the elastic.

Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

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Find the FREE pattern for this raglan sleeve coat at sewmag.co.uk

READING A PATTERN

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitted garment?

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting.

This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate different dress sizes.

Cut accordingly to yours.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern, where you can make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Match the lines together when stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric as you position your pieces.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate the position for placement on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“There is a common misconception that stitching in the ditch involves stitching right into a seam. However, you actually press all but the innermost seam allowance upwards, then stitch just below the seam, catching that one on the wrong side. Using a blind hem foot will help keep it neat.”

EMMA THOMPSON, EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

PLACING YOUR PIECES

With the printed pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. The tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching. It also allows you to adjust the placement if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

85

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the

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warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabrics first.

This means that you will know how the fabric reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press the material with an iron using a suitable heat setting. Lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.

WARP

WEFT

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TOPof the CLASS Take your sewing even further with one of these workshops!

There’s still time to take part in a class to make some festive gifts or decorations and luckily, there are plenty to choose from all around the UK. These include workshops to stitch a mini Christmas tree or easy festive felt decorations that even the kids can get involved in. Now is also a good opportunity to plan your New Year resolutions – if there’s a particular skill you’ve been wanting to learn, book a course in 2018 and go for it!

Hand-Sew Christmas Ornaments with Caroline Garcia The Village Haberdashery, London This morning class is perfect for getting the kids involved in some festive sewing! Taking place on 19th December, they’ll be shown how to hand-stitch a colourful tree decoration from felt before they decorate it as they please. Priced £10, children aged six and above are welcome to take part by themselves, while smaller ones will need to be accompanied by an adult.

Visit thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk or call 0207 624 5494.

Christmas Tree Ornament Gather ‘N’ Sew, Bourne, Lincs If you’re short on space for a large festive tree, why not take a class to stitch a pretty 23cm tall version for your mantelpiece?

Sewn from just three fat quarters and pom-pom trim, this workshop is scheduled for Saturday 2nd December and costs £30. All materials must be purchased beforehand, and the fabric pieces need to be cut out at home (instructions will be sent after booking). For more details, visit gathernsew.co.uk or call 01778 420464.

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Beginner to Advanced Dressmakers The Stitch Studio Sewing School, Wisbech St Mary, Cambs Want to challenge yourself to learn some fresh skills in the new year? The Stitch Studio Sewing School’s 2018 programme of classes by Jayne Walpole (BA (Hons) Fashion & Cert.Ed.), is now available for bookings. Courses and workshops include Learn To Sew, Overlockers, Pattern Cutting and Dressmaking, all taught in an inspiring, well-equipped studio. Visit stitchstudio.co.uk or call 07584 341160.

**ALL SEWN UP classified DEC 17_ALL SEWN UP 03/11/2017 10:29 Page 88

directory FABRICS & SEWING MACHINES

PATTERNS

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Go online to find your local store on our map!

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To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com DIGITAL EDITIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON THE APPLE AND KINDLE NEWSTAND *PLEASE NOTE, DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS WILL NOT INCLUDE SUBSCRIPTIONS GIFTS NOR COVER MOUNTED GIFTS.

Dragonfly Fabrics Modern Dressmaking Fabrics Mayfield, Near Tunbridge Wells.

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Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions.

And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

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Next month in

YOUR FREE 6 KNIT TOPS

Comfy styles to stitch!

THE CAPSULE COLLECTION

* Features subject to change

Essential pieces to wear every day

�

�

YOUR NEW YEAR CHECKLIST

MUST-SEW TOPS FOR YOUR WARDROBE

PLUS!

� Make your crafty resolutions and

get 2018 off to a flying start. � Stitch a handy vest top in every colour – just TWO pattern pieces. � Rethink your wardrobe with pieces that stand the test of time. � Find out who our NEW columnist is – we’re so excited!

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POP 14TH DECEMBER IN YOUR DIARY - OUR JAN ISSUE IS ON SALE! 89

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