Editor in chief Giuliano Deidda
STYLE
You Love, It Lies
Issue #2 - Dicembre 2017
STYLE
Q.&A.
DIGITAL
FASHION WHO READS
GIULIANO CALZA
GIOVANNI ALLEGRI
ITALIAN THEY GO
LINDA MESSERKLINGER
Creative director of GCDS
The debut of Major at Pitti Uomo
The top influencers
Fashion as expression of personality
Page 14
Page 16
Page 26
Page 62
THE ELEGANCE OF THE PAST Total Look Prada
An eclectic mix of cult pieces and contrasting prints and patterns.
Page 44 TREND
Ballet
Rossorame
Cloudlike dresses with showy tulles and crinolines
Page 22 ACCESSORIES
Luxury Athleisure
Brimarts
A selection of the most innovative sneakers, both for her and for him.
Page 52
W
Kate Winslet and Justin Timberlake in Wonder Wheel (Photo Courtesy of Lucky Red)
Woody Allen surprises us once again. He uses the past to talk about contemporary neurosis and sets his latest film, Wonder Wheel, in Coney Island in the fifties. “It always had a great effect on me. There are a lot of colourful, quirky people there and so much hustle and bustle that the atmosphere was particularly vibrant. I
thought it would be a stimulating setting for a dramatic film.� It is no coincidence that most of the films screened in the latter part of the year are set in the past. Nowadays, to turn to a past which is more or less remote and more or less mythologized seeking that inspiration which our digital reality is perhaps ever less able to give, is a firm part of current culture and aesthetics.
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The same thing has been happening for years in fashion, which continues season after season to bring past references up to date again. Thus, on the runway, the impeccable elegance of the fifties meets the anti-fashion transgressions of the sixties and the excesses of the eighties in a megamix which perfectly represents our confused modern life.
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www.terrealte.net
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Editor’s letter 5
DECEMBER 2017
young people and fashion T
o communicate fashion today is increasingly complex. No one seems to believe in institutional channels any longer, by this I mean print, no matter whether quality editorial products or not. Instagram seems to be the only vehicle that works, with its instant appeal and the possibility of audience interaction. It is the preferred vehicle for the young, the Millennials, but also for industry professionals. The problem with this is that the web and social media are types of media which must be used properly and only large groups are able to invest in effective digital campaigns giving tangible results. Young talents, no matter how creative or able to manage the web, just because of their age, cannot compete on this field with the big names. The names which do manage to emerge, have an understanding which is not limited to the web, they need to find ways to tell their story which go deeper, to tell their story in a less superficial way. It is no coincidence that whilst the big publishing houses are closing one magazine after another, small independent publishers are doing their best to produce quality publications, maybe niche, but able to recognize and laud creativity. This is happening on a global level because young people are taking an interest in fashion as never before. This is of one of the themes we talk about together with Giuliano Calza, creative director of GCDS, the new star of streetwear Made in Italy, often labelled as a product of social media but, as we discovered during the interview, much more lies behind the brand’s success. On the other hand, a name like Giovanni Allegri, heir to a prestigious family tradition in outerwear, tells us about a weighty digital strategy for the launch of the new brand Major. In both cases the obvious conclusion to be drawn is the need for synthesis between traditional strategies and new market demands. As always, we try to talk about all of these aspects, going as deep as possible within the pages of our magazine, without forgetting the aesthetic and almost dreamlike dimension which has always been a key characteristic of fashion.
This project has been made possible thanks to the support of:
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Contributors
DECEMBER 2017
Special Guest FASHION WHO READS
LINDA MESSERKLINGER
Page
10 Page
TANIA VISHNYAKOVA A degree in business, a Master in Counseling, owner of the vintage store Vecchiamosca in Milan, blogger (amanteperfetta.com) and designer of furs and jewellery. Muscovite by birth, she could have been an engineer or an economist, she is a Parisian spirit adopted by Milan. Her style doesn’t follow the masses, she sees it as a fascinating game. Her favourite pastime is to seek out grandmother’s headscarves and wear them with everything. She never leaves home without lipstick, vintage glasses and at least one unusual accessory.
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MAURIZIO SAPIA (STUDIO H2O) Born in Sanremo, after high school he moved to Milan to do a course in photography at the IED (European Institute of Design). After his diploma he began his profession as a photographer first as an assistant and then working directly with several magazines both in Italy and abroad. In collaboration with Studio H2O, of which he is one of the founding partners, he is currently producing photographs and videos for numerous brands and magazines, mainly but not exclusively linked to fashion. Parallel to this commercial activity, over the years he has developed his own artistic research, which, supported by art galleries, has brought him to show his work in numerous group and personal exhibitions.
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NICOLA GOBBETTO Born in 1980 in Milan, he gained his diploma from the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera. His gallery of reference is Galleria Fonti di Napoli. In 2011 he won the Prada Manga Contest and in 2012 made the animated short film “The Golden Fish” for Vogue.it. His research weaves around fantastic narrative, myths and legends, magic and esotericism. Metamorphosis and transformation are the key words for his artistic production which embraces divers experimental techniques.
Editorial Director MARCO POLI m.poli@fashionillustrated.eu Editor in Chief GIULIANO DEIDDA g.deidda@fashionillustrated.eu Art Director FABRIZIO MAJERNA f.majerna@maj-fm.com Editorial Staff info@fashionillustrated.eu Contributors FRANCESCO BERTOLA, NICOLA GOBBETTO, FRANCESCA MANUZZI, FRANCESCA ORTU, STUDIO H2O, TANIA VISHNYAKOVA Editorial Office Corso Colombo 7 - 20144 Milano Tel. +39 0287365694 www.fashionillustrated.eu
Publishing House MILANO FASHION LIBRARY Via Alessandria, 8 - 20144 Milano Tel. +39 0258153208 Chairman DIEGO VALISI dvalisi@milanofashionlibrary.it Assistant Publisher LISA RICCI lricci@milanofashionlibrary.it Advertising Via Alessandria, 8 20144 Milano Tel. +39 0258153208
All rights reserved©/The material on this magazine may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Fashion Illustrated.
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PHOTO BY DAVIDE BONAITI
Linda Messerklinger, long dark hair and huge blue eyes, was born in Moncalieri, Turin, and has a dense curriculum comprising cinema, music, theatre and dance. She did classical studies at high school followed by Political Science at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre, whilst continuing to study acting which she began at the Teatro Regio in Turin with the mime Marcel Marceau. Thanks to her family, she grew up surrounded by theatre and art, starting work very early as an actress, dancer and model. The fault lies with Giuda by Davide Ferrario, Giallo by Dario Argento and I Demoni di San Pietroburgo by Giuliano Montaldo, these are among the first films she appeared in. At the age of 20 she moved to Rome, because “the heart of cinema is there”, appearing in various film and television productions and studying with names who were fundamental to her artistic training, such as Elizabeth Kemp and Mary Setrakian. She was chosen for the role of the mute girl who lives with her mother (Isa Barzizza) in a postatomic Italy in the film Mia by Fulvio Ottaviano and Stefano Soli. Fame arrived with the film, Faccia d’angelo by Andrea Porporati, where she played Morena, girlfriend of the Brenta criminal underworld boss, Felice Maniero (Elio Germano). This was a difficult and delicate role, due to the controversy generated by a bloodthirsty story. Just as complex were the events narrated in the television miniseries, Gli anni spezzati, directed by Graziano Diana, in which Linda interpreted Mara Cagol the founder, together with her husband Renato Curcio, of the Brigate Rosse. In 2013, she settled in Turin once again and worked on the theatre performance Dostoevskij Forever, taken from the novel the Idiot. In the following years, she dedicated her time to the activities of singer songwriter and performer: and together with the musician Gigi Giancursi (for many years a member of the group Perturbazione) founded the duo Linda & The Greenman, writing and producing the album Greensongs, their first work. She also collaborated on the album Generated, by the artist, The Archetype. In 2016, she returned to the film set with Marchio Bellocchio for the film, Fai bei sogni. The same year saw her acting alongside Clive Owen in the noir written and directed by Paolo Sorrentino, Killer in Red. Coming to cinemas in 2018, in the film written and directed by Tonino Zangardi, Quando corre Nuvolari, she plays Carolina Perina, the wife of the famous Mantuan pilot.
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Contents
DECEMBER 2017
30
SPRING SUMMER 2018 NEW NORMAL
By Giuliano Deidda
32
TREND MENSWEAR IN LINE
10
HIGHLIGHTS 1 The Prada Double Club Miami
STYLE TIPS
By the editorial staff
By Giuliano Deidda
34
DIGITAL ITALIAN THEY GO
14
By the editorial staff
THE NEW FACE OF MADE IN ITALY
FOCUS
Q.&A. By Giuliano Deidda
36
LABELS TO WATCH
By Francesca Ortu
16
DEBUT
40
YOUNG TALENTS
INNOVATIVE LUXURY FOR CONNECTED CONSUMERS
FASHION GRADUATE ITALIA
20
44
By Giuliano Deidda
By the editorial staff
TREND WOMENSWEAR
YOUR LOVE, IT LIES
DADAISM
By the editorial staff
STYLE Giuliano Deidda PHOTOGRAPHY Francesco Bertola
22
52
SPRING SUMMER 2018
LUXURY ATHLEISURE
BALLET
By the editorial staff
STYLE Giuliano Deidda PHOTOGRAPHY Francesco Bertola
24
58
TREND WOMENSWEAR GO WITH THE FLOW
By the editorial staff
26
DIGITAL ITALIAN THEY GO
By the editorial staff
WISHLIST SURREAL
By Francesca Manuzzi
60
HIGHLIGHTS 2
LIFESTYLE
By the editorial staff
62
28
FASHION WHO READS
AMERICAN PSYCHO
FASHION AS AN EXPRESSION OF PERSONALITY
TREND MENSWEAR By Giuliano Deidda
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By Linda Messerklinger
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10
Highlights 1
DECEMBER 2017
STYLE TIPS
LUXURY AT HAND by TANIA VISHNYAKOVA
Fioruccina, my friends call me this now, because of my passion for vintage clothes. The word vintage comes from the old French word vendange, and is used to indicate the best wines of the year, the ones which are appreciated for their fine and unmistakable flavour. A vintage dress is the present that I most appreciate. A piece of timeless design is like the wine from a good year, it has a sophisticated aftertaste. What I like about vintage is that it carries the history of fashion with it, from the economic and intellectual boom years onwards. It has recently returned to its place in fashion as a cultural phenomenon, this has seen me involved in breathless research into extravagant shapes and elaborate fabrics. For example, I feel as though I am a modern flower child, with bohemian style when I wear a gypsy skirt. A return to the glamour of the past is inevitable, it evokes long, loose, unruly hair, with a wildflower from the Steppes caught in it, an intellectual and rather agitated look, flared trousers and tight-fitting shirts with flowers and geometrical designs. I also love the sensuous romance of transparency: chiffon and lace. Speaking of chiffon, my mind goes back to a lovely memory of my grandmother, to her beautiful crepe de chine, pussybow collared blouse, with a faint hint of tuberose from the chiffonier chest, a status symbol for the bourgeoisie in 1950s Moscow. Another personal memory of the past is the brittanca or telniagka, the typical striped jersey of the Navy, to be worn only with Chanel’s Rouge Allure on your lips. How could I forget the eighties and those typical bomber jackets, which we have seen once again on the runway? In the nineties, on the other hand, I as a post-soviet wore one of the first denim jackets in Moscow and the kosuchi, the biker jacket, to imitate Depeche Mode, worn with a thin velvet ribbon around my neck just as Dior recently suggested. Even the trench coat is an iconic piece. It is fundamental to any wardrobe, we all know it was created for military officers and that it was much loved by secret agents. In 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier made it sexy, uncovering the shoulders to show the lace of dresses worn underneath. These thoughts are only a taste of the ideas and musings that vintage clothes bring. The past returns, actually the past, with its unmistakable scents and colours, is always present in my head.
UNIQUE PIECES Daniela Vezza was born in Verona and started her career there as a jewellery designer. Growing up she continued to specialize in jewellery, but her vibrant energy and her creativity encouraged her to embrace her true passion: fashion. She did this by creating the line which bears her name, a collection of unique pieces dedicated to chic and sophisticated women able to appreciate pure luxury and high quality. In-depth research into materials, meticulous attention to detail and impeccable craftsmanship are the values essential to the brand, as is the sophisticated beauty typical to Made in Italy. Precious mink, gossamerlike silk, needled wools and combinations of unique colours are all typical elements of Daniela Vezza’s unique style. In just a few years since her debut, these values have guaranteed focused distribution in selected stores in Italy and throughout the world, among them, Gio Moretti in Milan, Joseph in London, Leclairer in Paris and Sosalt in Korea. The 2017 fall winter collection is an authentic expression of Italian craftsmanship, one where nature meets the refinement of art. The minks with floral inserts of the preceding season have been naturally and elegantly reinterpreted with new colours and shapes in an art inspired aesthetics, revealing portraits of women adorned in jewels, Klimt mosaics and scenes inspired by nature with penguins and dragonflies in beautiful dreamlike gardens. Mink vests and jackets with handcrafted inserts, are like paintings, each different, due to the charm of their fascinatingly intricate details. In short, these are unique collectors’ pieces.
THE IMPORTANCE OF COLOUR The fourth edition of the Dialogare con il colore conference. The association Color Coloris, which intends to connect the colour professionals active in any and all sectors, gathered a group of experts and companies who work with colour and know its intrinsic character, to introduce the research from the partnership with Dols.it. The focus group analysed the function of colour as influential on choices made by the final customer. The result is, for example, that there is an inclination towards bright colours for living areas, whereas more subtle atmospheres are preferred for sleeping areas, and so it is for the table where pastel tones are chosen. Clothing opts for simple black for formal occasions with coordinated accessories, in particular for jewels, in tones of blue and green with favour being shown for metals. “Material, threads and fabrics would not exist without colour, the true stimulus and catalyst for ideas and inspiration, often used in the wrong way in order to highlight effects and reliefs, to amaze and excite”, explained Elementi Moda’s Ornella Bignami. Examples of colour in daily life can be extended to the design of a pencil by Paul Smith for Caran D’Ache to couches by Ron Arad for Moroso, up to the point of view held by Salvo Testa (Università Bocconi-Fashion Management) who through the experience of each single speaker, has explored the more personal and subjective sphere pertaining to colour. Colour expresses emotions, provokes reactions, influences our state of mind and even the physiological reactions of our body.
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HEVO.it
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12
Highlights 1
DECEMBER 2017
STYLE TIPS
LUXURY SHOPPING New retail development for Restelli Guanti. The Milanese brand which has produced high quality gloves for women, men and skiing since 1920, has opened a temporary shop at number 14, Via Bagutta, Milan. The opening forms part of the brand’s positioning strategy in the top tier of the luxury range and in their expansion plans in Italy and key foreign market, all made possible thanks to activities such as the opening and to new and significant future investment. The temporary store in the golden quadrilatero area of Milan will carry all of the brand’s collections, recognizable and characterized by the deluxe raw materials and craftsmanship employed in their creation, together with a made to measure service. Only in the store will it be possible to have personalized gloves in a mere 48 hours. The tailor-made service is set be introduced at selected other retailers.
NOVE25 A new collaboration for Nove25. The Italian silver urban jewellery label founded by Roberto Dibenedetto meets the archaic allegory of the Parthenopean tattoo artist Enzo Brandi. The result is the La legge di strada (The law of the street) collection, which mixes the symbols Brandi usually tattoos on to his clients’ skin and the metaphor of a whole city. In Naples, Brandi is very popular because his are the most famous tattoos in the city’s football team and those easily recognised symbols define the new language at Nove25. Rings, pendants and a rosary have been created following the artist’s original design. For a night-time capsule which places family, honour and superstition as fundamental values to talk about. Faith for the language of one’s own lands which then crosses borders to become a universal language and belong to humanity.
ZANETTI Zanetti Moda Srl is a consolidated Italian company in the production of women’s shirts, since 1965. Thanks to the extensive experience gained over the last fifty years and the gradual integration with dresses, pants, jackets and knitwear, Zanetti 1965 collection can satisfy different requirements, tastes and occasions. A wide range of fabrics, a careful choice of styles and colors for a product of quality and special details.
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www.z anettimod a . i t
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14
Q.&A.
DECEMBER 2017
STYLE
THE NEW FACE
OF MADE
IN ITALY
BY GIULIANO DEIDDA
We get to know Giuliano Calza, creative director for GCDS, the growingly successful young brand.
A
n acronym of God Can’t Destroy Streetwear, this brand enlivened the runways of the last editions of Milano Moda Uomo and New York Fashion Week. We meet creative director, Giuliano Calza, who together with his brother and CEO, Giordano, is the architect of the exponential success of the brand, at their Milan flagship store in the much sought after Porta Nuova district. The rise of GCDS has been impressive up to now. Aside from the actual reasons for this success, it seems to me that the secret of GCDS is having clear ideas. What do you think about this definition. Do you recognise yourself in it? The reason for this, is that our creative direction fully reflects the people who are behind the label. Ours is a Made in Italy product with global appeal and a young style of communicating. It works because it is conveyed to the right target. It is luxury streetwear for daily use. You have a different kind of background in your past. What encouraged you to make this change to your career path? My past experience is certainly different from that of someone who has always been in the style department. The transition has been a very long one. Whilst I was in Shanghai I was blown away by Asiatic art, as is evident in my collections. My first experience in this sector was in the Blumarine press office, an institution in fashion, with a very classic approach to communication. For example, I had to fight to convince them to open an Instagram account for the brand. GCDS is often defined as a product of the digital era. Actually, it seems to me to be one of the first projects in which tradition and digital modernity are balanced. If I am right, what is your secret? In what sense is GCDS avant-garde and how is it traditional? Of course, it is easier and more expedient to talk about social media, but actually the transitions have been very long and well-structured. The thing that has made us successful is attractive communication across the board. We have treated a mass market product as though it were a luxury product. This is what the emerging markets want. At the same time, thanks to my brother, who comes from a banking background, we have a clear idea of how to run a company. We have followed the rules and strategies without losing sight of the final goal. The fundamental theme is the sustainability of the project, to not overreach ourselves, starting by not incurring debt, above all with our suppliers. Talking about institutional tradition, the first stand-alone store was opened in Milan. Nowadays, what does it mean to start out from here? Retail strategy is fundamental. My brother is inflexible on this point. You have to choose the right influential store windows. Once this goal has been reached, emerging markets arrive as a direct result. As soon as we could, we immediately invested in a Milanese shop. It is the fundamental starting point for an Italian, Made in Italy, brand. The next opening could be in Shanghai or in London, we are working on both fronts. You know, in the English capital the formula of medium sized stand-alone stores continues find a space and to have appeal. You are in fact, distributed in the best boutiques in the main markets. Are there differences in perception between one country and another? Certainly, there is great diversity in perception and because of this we seek to customize both sales and communication, as well as product. In Rome for example, we have a very young customer and we must get through to them in the right way, in the right places. Caroline Vreeland, the face of our brand for Spring Summer 2017, works really well for the American customer but not for the Chinese, for example. Among other things, GCDS is seen as a luxury brand in China, due to a higher price point, caused by custom duty. Perception has to change because that market is different to ours. The mistake many make in China is simply trying to force the product on them, whereas it is necessary to meet local taste halfway, as it is now both specific and knowledgeable.
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You have dressed an infinite list of contemporary pop figures. Apart from Rihanna who we know is one of your favourites, who could be the ideal face of GCDS – even from the past? This is a difficult question. If on the one hand the brand does get part of its strength from contemporary influential spokespersons, it’s not easy to think of someone who could really embody the brand. At the same time, I don’t subscribe to the model myth anymore. When there were top models there was an aura of mystery, which made them unreachable and legendary. Today that distance no longer exists because of social media, so they have become too normal. If I have to dream, I prefer to think of legends who could have embodied the spirit of GCDS, irreverent, sensual and ironic. Dolly Parton, who I have always loved, comes to mind, Cher who is timeless and above all, Joan Rivers with her incredible sagacity. You showed the menswear on the runway in Milan and the women’s collection in New York. Where will the next presentation be? We will be in Milan during men’s fashion week in January. We have decided to do only two runway shows a year, so we will show men’s and women’s together. It will be huge, more entertainment than a classic runway show. Can you let us know something about the upcoming collection? It will feature a new collaboration, this time with Disney! Maybe I shouldn’t have said anything. Oh well, I’ve said it now. I grew up watching these cartoons, they are part of my DNA. This is why the show will be magical. Where do you see yourself ten years from now? I am often asked if I see myself as the creative head of some fashion house. Quite honestly, I want to concentrate my efforts on the growth of GCDS. Of course, some years from now when I am more of an adult, I don’t know if I will be able to maintain the young approach suitable for the brand. If this were to be the case, I would hand over to someone of the right age and I’m sure it would be a profitable collaboration for both of us. If our brand were to lose its creative freshness, there would be no point in its existing and it wouldn’t interest me anymore.
danielavezza.com
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16
Q.&A.
DECEMBER 2017
DEBUT
INNOVATIVE LUXURY FOR
CONNECTED CONSUMERS BY GIULIANO DEIDDA
A meeting with Giovanni Allegri in view of Major’s upcoming debut at the next edition of Pitti Uomo
F
irst of all, how do you feel on the eve of the start of this new adventure? I would say excited, but also very determined about launching Major. It is a challenge I have set myself and the market. I don’t merely want to continue my family’s story but to create a new one, thanks also to the team I have worked together with. Three words to define Major, your new project. I recently happened to read in an article these three words “find, organize and share”, they are perfect for Major. Initially we were looking for something different, something unique then we tried it out and prepared the market and finally we are presenting it... and sharing it with you! The outerwear segment today is particularly rich and diversified. What will be unique about Major in this scenario? First of all, we are distinguished by our profound product culture. With Major, the coat becomes the fulfilment of a project roadmap, which starts with research into forms, which are contemporary, but constructed like sartorial garments. Can you reveal something about the style? Are there pieces which have been conceived to be destined as iconic for the brand? Major is a collection for men and women, which is represented by a creatively assembled and reassembled wardrobe, the design of classic pieces has been transformed into altered, innovative and extremely wearable items, workwear coexists with daywear, tailor-made alongside sportswear, which, as I said before, together with quality fabrics, is the signature style of the brand. The design team is young and international. How does this translate into the collection? In the hybridization of style, the rigour of Nordic design, in working on a collection whilst thinking about the freedom of mixing disparate elements to construct a personal style. What is the target of reference? We have worked hard to define our target, we consider it to be a niche of customers
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who are used to luxury and who have a definite tendency toward choosing innovative cuts and volumes. It is a transgenerational target, which mixes Millennials with more mature profiles, cosmopolitan, curious and connected. What does Italian heritage mean to you and how, on the other hand, will Major be completely different? Major boasts an extraordinary Italian manufacturing heritage, that savoir faire which distinguishes us throughout the world in the areas of design and style, supported by the innovation and mood of the young designers who work for us. The launch of Major is set for the next edition of Pitti Uomo. Does this choice mean that you are concentrating more on the men’s collection? The men’s collection is definitely important, but the section dedicated to women has great potential. These are pieces with geometric but feminine lines, a strong femininity, characterful, like the women we intend to involve. You will concentrate largely on digital technologies, both for distribution and communication. Can you reveal how the operation will be structured? Thanks to social media, customers have become potential influencers for the brand, ratifying the birth of H2H marketing, human to human. Social media is particularly interesting because it allows for growth in awareness, and therefore a label becomes well-known and recognisable. We aim to effect this by involving a group of international influencers who will contribute by giving visibility to the brand and reinforcing its positioning. How is the choice of these extremely contemporary strategies linked to the type of product you propose? It is a strategy aimed at customers who are closely linked to the present and to the speed of connection and sharing. Social media has changed the world of fashion, we cannot ignore it. Our strategy concentrates on the opportunities afforded by these channels, our product intends to be a key player in this scenario.
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YOUR SMILE. YOUR STYLE.
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BLACK
& WHITE
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ARTISTIC GREY
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20
Trend womenswear
DECEMBER 2017
SPRING SUMMER 2018
DADAISM
BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF
Erika Cavallini
Gabriele Colangelo
Alberto Zambelli
T
Au Jour Le Jour
he heart of the narrative is animated with folds, trimmings, additions and subtractions. Materials are placed on the body creating a new, unstructured and updated shape for everyday things. Plinio Visonà’s bags are beaded with ton sur ton leather curls, Paula Cademartori’s sandals boast juxtaposed inserts of denim, leather and high gloss buckles. Spring Summer 2018 sees the dawn of a new urban art, open to multiple digressions. High-end dresses are elevated to the heights of Dada exhibitions for Lucio Vanotti, Shirtaporter and Gabriele Colangelo. At Alberto Zambelli and Albino Teodoro draping and panels of fabric recall Man Ray’s female sculptures, just as layering of khaki at Erika Cavallini or Au Jour Le Jour bring to mind Christo’s packaged sculptures. The cerebral side of the season is refined and hued with the tender colour fields of Baldinini’s sandals.
Albino Teodoro
Shirtaporter
Baldinini
Plinio Visonà
Paula Cademartori
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Lucio Vanotti
Via Tivoli 6, Milano
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22
Trend womenswear
DECEMBER 2017
SPRING SUMMER 2018
BALLET
BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF
Rossorame
Brognano
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first night at La Scala in Milan or at the Teatro La Fenice in Venice. An exclusive parterre to admire beauties in tutus, dancing sinuously on world famous Italian stages. The setting calls for cloudlike dresses with showy tulles and crinolines. Maxi and mini are necessary, as is however XXL. And fashion replies. Brognano, Fausto Puglisi, Giuseppe Di Morabito and OffWhite c/o Virgil Abloh take centre stage with dresses suitable for a prima ballerina, reinterpreted masterfully in an arpeggio of pink. Likewise, accessories: with ballet slippers by Icaro-premiere AGL-Attilio Giusti Lombardini and the perfect stockings for a ballerina by Pierre Mantoux. The performance starts and the mood intensifies like the colours of dresses with after-theatre promise, illuminated with fuchsia and bordeaux for Aniye By, Veronica Rossi and Rossorame, to be worn with Amato Daniele’s mini bags.
Aniye By
Hanny Deep
AGL-Attilio Giusti
Veronica Rossi
Pierre mantoux
Off White
Amato Daniele Giuseppe Di Morabito ITALY ILLUSTRATED
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24
Trend womenswear
DECEMBER 2017
SPRING SUMMER 2018
GO WITH THE FLOW
BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF
Vivetta
L
Caban Romantic
ooks rustling musically, flow sinuously around the body. The soul of Spring Summer 2018 sways with hypnotic flapper girl fringes and is wreathed in dresses, with a hint of 20s glamour, reworked and corrected for Millennials, at Caban Romantic and Genny. Fringes and vibrantly coloured feathers perfect the looks at Marco De Vincenzo and Vivetta and also adorn Cristiano Burani’s sporty charm. The silhouette at N°21 shimmers with embroideries which gleam and flash like the tail feathers of a tropical bird. Evening dresses at Attico explode in a whirl of feathers, a snowwhite cloud swathes the body and embellishes accessories with new ardour, from bags by Amanti to shoes by D.A.T.E. and Fabio Rusconi. This is a fairytale: voluptuous and new.
Marco de Vincenzo
Cristiano Burani
Genny
N°21
Fabio Rusconi
Plinio Visonà
D.A.T.E.
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Attico
adorote.it
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Trend Womenswear
DECEMBER 2017
DIGITAL
BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF
Ten women at the peak of the top ranking 3.0. These influencers based in America, queens of the web, choose brands flying the Italian flag
@sitabellan SITA ABELLAN
TECHNOPRINCESS 372.000 followers/Instagram
@emmaroberts EMMA ROBERTS
ACTRESS 11.500.000 followers/Instagram
@jjmartinmilan J.J. MARTIN
EDITOR-AT-LARGE AT WALLPAPER* MAGAZINE AND FOUNDER OF LADOUBLEJ.COM 61.900 followers/Instagram
@chiaraferragni CHIARAFERRAGNI
BUSINESS WOMAN 11.200.000 followers/Instagram
@sarasampaio SARA SAMPAIO
MODEL 6.100.000 followers/Instagram
@adakokosar ADA KOKOSAR
STYLIST AND FASHION CONSULTANT 33.200 followers/Instagram
@oliviapalermo OLIVIA PALERMO
ACTRESS AND FASHION ICON 5.000.000 followers/Instagram
@bat_gio GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA ENGELBERT FASHION EDITOR AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR 752.000 followers/ Instagram
@ericapelosini ERICA PELOSINI LEEMAN SPECIAL AMBASSADOR 124.000 followers/Instagram
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@carolinevreeland CAROLINE VREELAND
SPECIAL AMBASSADOR & DIANA VREELAND’S NEPHEW 263.000 followers/Instagram
LAMPO SUPERLAMPO
Per fetta sintesi fra tecnologia d’avanguardia e cura del particolare tipicamente artigianale, Superlampo è l’espressione più avanzata della capacità produttiva dell’azienda, rivolta a ricercare e fornire l’eccellenza nel proprio settore. La scelta dei materiali, la realizzazione di finiture particolarmente pregiate, la capacità di ottenere una sensazione visiva e tattile di raffinata levigatezza, fanno di Superlampo la soluzione ideale per capi di abbigliamento di alta ed altissima qualità. Su pe r l a m po è diffe re n t e r is pe t t o a l l e a l t re c h iu s ure lam p o i n m e t allo, i n q u anto og ni si ng olo de n t in o è t ra n c ia t o, pu l im e n t a t o e ga l va n iz z a t o pr i m a d i e sse re ap p li c ato su l nastro. I vant ag g i d i qu e s t a t e c n o l o gia s o n o qu e l l i di ave re l a po s s ibil it à d i ap p li c are su lla c ate na q u alsi asi ri ve sti m e nto ga l va n ic o, da t u t t e l e s f u m a t u re de l l ’ o ro fin o a l p allad i o, e la m ag g i or sc orrevolez z a, d al m om e nto c h e il de n t in o è pe r fe t t a m e n t e l ev iga t o. Pro pr io pe r q u e sto è m olto ap p rez z at a i n p e lle tte ri a e ne i c a pi di a l t a qu a l it à . L a c a t e n a n o n gra f fia , n o n t ira ne ssu n fi lo e, le tte ralm e nte, sp le nd e. Pe r q u e sti m o t iv i, Su pe r l a m po e s a l t a c o n il pro pr io de s ign l o sti le d e i c ap i m od a p i ù p re sti g i osi . C u r io s a m e n t e, qu e s t a e ra pro pr io qu e s t a l a t e c n olog i a u sat a p e r la p rod u zi one d e lle c hi u su re lam p o a l l ’in iz io de l XX s e c o l o, c a du t a po i in dis u s o pe r l’av ve nto d e lle m ac c hi ne am e ri c ane, p i ù ve loc i e d e c o n o m ic h e. D a L a m po s o n o s t a t i i pr im i a reva m p i z z arla, p e r asse c ond are la ri c hi e st a d i p rod otti d i m a ggio r qu a l it à e im pa t t o e s t e t ic o.
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Trend Menswear
DECEMBER 2017
SPRING SUMMER 2018
AMERICAN PSYCHO
Bresciani
BY GIULIANO DEIDDA
“
My name is Patrick Bateman. I’m 27 years old. I believe in taking care of myself, and a balanced diet and a rigorous exercise routine.” This is how Patrick Bateman introduces himself, the bloodthirsty lead character of American Psycho the cult 1991 novel by Bret Easton Ellis, played by Christian Bale in the 2000 film version directed by Mary Harron. Bateman is a neurotic yuppie, who masks his perversion and diabolical violence, with an aesthetically perfect life. Like a modern Dorian Gray, the character alternates nonchalantly between retelling heinous murders and talking about his personal rituals linked to body care and clothing, meticulously naming the clothes he is wearing as though they were captions in a fashion magazine. His style which is impeccable and showy, without ever overstepping the mark of good taste, was seen again on the Spring Summer 2018 runway as an alternative to the streetwear which has reigned supreme for several seasons.
Ermanno Scervino
Brian Dales
Fendi
E. Marinella
Caruso GTA
Fradi
Giorgio armani ITALY ILLUSTRATED
Giangi Napoli
TESSUTO ITALY ILLUSTRATED
Trend Menswear 30
Bilancioni
SPRING SUMMER 2018
NEW NORMAL
BY GIULIANO DEIDDA
Alessandro Dell’Acqua
Andrea Zori
Corneliani
T
Laboratori Italiani
hese are difficult times for trend-setters. The unpredictable complexity of contemporary life is reflected in a definite way in fashion, generating unexpected mechanisms which often beggar analysis. Does the rule still hold that the evolution of trends is poetically perceived as floating in the air? Or that runway proposals are simply the result of market research? I would like to answer that both options are misleading and that fashion is the result of many complex elements, difficult to classify in rigid categories. The truth is that brands are going forward along a route which concentrates more on life style than on fashion as end in itself. Whatever the answer, what could be more normcore, or if you prefer, more familiar and day to day than denim?
Gallia
Berwich
Roy Roger’s Perofil Herno ITALY ILLUSTRATED
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Trend Menswear
DECEMBER 2017
SPRING SUMMER 2018
IN LINE BY GIULIANO DEIDDA
Sartoria Latorre
Bigi Cravatte
Tagliatore
P
Xacus Brian Dales
in-striped and sailor style, the cardinal points of masculine clothing give ideas for new sophisticated offerings, where irony plays a role. To tell the truth and without wanting to state the obvious, to make clothing that represents the cornerstone of masculine elegance current once more, is a very difficult task. When it is about stripes for example, pinstripes come to mind, military, or the height of summer transgression, sailor style. Next season’s collections go beyond these categories and knowingly desecrate them, pushing far beyond the limits of potential for classic patterns without altering their elegance. The key words are, decontextualize and undo, to recreate an elegance which is far from banal.
Furla
TheGigi
Andrea Pompilio
Gallo Tintoria Mattei
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Trend Menswear DIGITAL
BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF
Ten guys at the peak of the top ranking 3.0. These influencers based in America, kings of the web, choose brands flying the Italian flag @andreaswijk ANDREAS WIJK
SINGER 184.000 followers/Instagram
@camerondallas CAMERON DALLAS
AMBASSADOR 20.600.000 followers/Instagram
@chase_hill @marcusbutler
CHASE HILL
MODEL 214.000 followers/Instagram
MARCUS BUTLER
“I MAKE STUFF, WEAR STUFF AND SPEAK STUFF” 3.600.000 followers/Instagram
@willpeltz WILL PELTZ
INFLUENCER 102.000 followers/Instagram
@machinegunkelly GUNNA
INFLUENCER 3.000.000 followers/Instagram
@iamgalla ADAM GALLAGHER
PHOTOGRAPHY, MENSWEAR, MUSIC 2.100.000 followers/Instagram
@richthekid RICH THE KID
RICH FOREVER CEO 2.000.000 followers/Instagram
@thegr8khalid
@lukasabbat LUKA SABBAT / MR. FALLBACK STYLIST, ENTREPRENEUR, CHAMPION 588.000 followers/Instagram
KHALID
SINGER AND SONGWRITER 1.900.000 followers/Instagram
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Focus
DECEMBER 2017
SCOUTING
LABELS TO WATCH BY FRANCESCA ORTU
Armando Costa
Chosen from among former students of Istituto Marangoni for I’M Alumni Collections ®evolution project, the project created by the school, intending to support and promote the work of its most talented alumni, Armando Costa, former student of the Milanese fashion school and tutor at the school in Paris, was selected for this first edition and given the chance to show his Spring Summer collection during the latest Milano Moda Donna. Entitled Horror Vacui, it refers to precise geographic and cultural elements of great symbolic value, and is inspired by oriental blankets and carpets, melded with the decadent atmosphere of bohemian Paris, as well as psychedelic prints, inspired by the signs and carpets of Las Vegas, the full expression of Horror Vacui, fil rouge of the collection. This is a journey through different worlds dedicated to nomadic elegance.
Gilberto Calzolari
Founded in 2016, the brand Gilberto Calzolari which bears the name of its creator, promises to be the right balance of innovation and demi couture, half way between haute couture and prêt-à-porter. The strong identity of the brand as an interpreter of modernity is allied to the typical excellence of Made in Italy. For Spring Summer 2018, Calzolari proposes Exotic, his second collection dedicated to an eccentric alien, newly arrived on Earth, interpreted with glamour and romance. With a play of chromatic contrasts in bright and pastel tones, he draws flowery prints mixed with urban details. Brilliant easy-towear for a promising collection, offering a glimpse of interesting future developments.
Au197Sm
Stefano Maccagnani, at the heart of the brand Au197Sm (the name comes from the chemical symbol for the only stable isotope in gold), is an eclectic and visionary businessman. For the Spring Summer 2018 collection, he turns to a new avantgarde look, enhanced by 24 carat gold. These new style frontiers have been created thanks to the new use of materials and textiles, patented for contemporary luxury streetwear with a minimalist aesthetic. Au197Sm offers, therefore, an unprecedented approach to fashion. Thanks to an exclusive technique patented by Belumbury Fashion Group SRL, part of EOS SPA, the company founded by Maccagnani, is able to fuse 24 carat gold, white gold, red gold and platinum with high quality fibres, to create a meeting between material and style which goes beyond current, established canons.
Christian Petrini PTRCRS
Opposites meet constantly in Christian Petrini PTRCRS collections. His creative journey is always balanced between dreams and reality, at the mercy of emotions capable of influencing him. The Spring Summer 2018 collection derives from his personal and intimate essential nature. Workwear uniforms are deconstructed and reinvented, according to the canons of streetwear. The choice of white, the ethereal non colour without par, heightens the concept, its luminosity able to highlight twisted prints and decadent embroideries. The collection is entirely Made in Italy, conceived, designed and selfproduced, uniting research, tradition and new technologies.
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Focus
DECEMBER 2017
SCOUTING
Foto di Arianna Lago
Marta Martino
Poliedrica creativa e fondatrice dell’omonimo brand nato nel 2010, Marta Martino, che negli anni ha stretto importanti collaborazioni con griffe quali New York Industrie, Byblos, Max Mara e Antwerp Six, per la sua collezione primavera estate 2018 rivolge la sua attenzione verso il futuro, armata di una profonda consapevolezza di sé, nonché di una maggiore autonomia. Il nome, Seven, rappresenta per lei il numero primo, intriso di significato, dall’astronomia alla creazione e, per questo, numero di perfezione, sicurezza e riposo. I colori scelti sono rosso, bianco e nero, decisi e dal forte valore simbolico, per un guardaroba femminile potente.
Matteo Lamandini
Classe 1989, Matteo Lamandini frequenta gli studi prima all’Accademia Europea di Bologna e poi all’Istituto Marangoni a Milano. Lavora come assistente menswear designer da MSGM e poi da Marni. Nel 2014 vince il concorso Designer for Tomorrow, che segna la svolta nella sua vita e lo porta alla creazione del suo marchio e della sua prima collezione, per la primavera estate 1996, oltrec a una collaborazione con Tommy Hilfiger, con una capsule collection, presentata durante la Berlin Fashion Week. Due stagioni più tardi, il designer si ispira all’America, alla New York underground e alle spiagge di Coney Island, dove le uniche regole sono quelle di gioco. Il concetto cardine del brand è la contaminazione tra il formale e lo streetwear nel quale la classicità degli abiti gessati si mixa a ai tessuti tecnici. In un controsenso continuo, espresso nell’uso di tonalità accese ispirate al beachwear in contrasto con toni pastello e nella sovrapposizione tra volumi over e slim, lascia l’ultima parola all’immaginazione confusionaria di chi guarda.
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Your office in Milan
The ideal place for meetings, press days, sales campaignes and temporary showroom. Within the picturesque location of Milan Fashion Library in Milan in Tortona/Navigli/Darsena area. The location has 6 indipendent spaces in a 1500 mq area available by reservation: Meeting rooms • Kitchen and Living • Cinema • Library with over than 68.000 magazines ARE INCLUDED: secretarial service • postal address • wifi For more info info@milanofashionlibrary.it tel. + 39 02 83311200 www.milanofashionlibrary.it
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Focus
DECEMBER 2017
YOUNG TALENTS
FASHION GRADUATE ITALIA,
MILAN ON THE SIDE OF YOUNG PEOPLE The Lombardy Region government and the Municipality of Milan, together to promote fashion and design
F
ashion Graduate Italia, the initiative from Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda (fashion training system platform), was held from the 5th to the 7th of November at the Base, Milan, the new cultural and creative hub in Via Bergognone, with outstanding visitor numbers at an event seeking to encourage the synergy between business, fashion and design schools and the creative professions. Under the patronage and with the support of Regione Lombardia and the Comune di Milano, united once again to diffuse Italian style on an international level and thanks to the Councillor for Economic Development for Regione Lombardia Mauro Parolini, Fashion Italia Graduate, during the three-day open event, created meeting possibilities for businesses working in fashion and young emerging talents, seeking professional opportunities, with a dense schedule of initiatives, catwalk shows, talks, workshops and displays to talk about the present and to imagine the future, according to new and different visions. Alberto Bonisoli, Head of Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda, commented on the satisfying results, to begin with the 4000 visitors: “Our goal was to show off the Italian fashion schools to the wider public with an open event, wherein it would be possible to meet both institutions and the various players of the fashion system. We achieved our goal and the great results with visitors over these three days, bears witness to this. I would like to thank our partners, whose contribution and support have been fundamental, the businesses, the professionals and the media, all of whom have participated enthusiastically.� The 17 institutions, who are part of Piattaforma Sistema Formativo were present, Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, Accademia di Costume e di Moda, Accademia Euromediterranea, Accademia della Moda, Accademia Koefia, AFOL Moda, ARS Sutoria, CERCAL School, Domus Academy, Ferrari Fashion School, IED Moda Lab, Istituto Marangoni, Istituto Modartech, Istituto Secoli, LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti, NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Art and Politecnico Calzaturiero. 150 participating designers presented over 700 creations, either on the runway or in a booth show. Events over the three days included two talks, four themed panel discussions, with international guests and event partners, and four workshops, with 250 people taking part in all. The event also proposed a Job Speed Date, the first experiment of its kind in Italy in the fashion sector, which permitted 12 industry businesses and 90 alumni from the Piattaforma schools to meet. Students in higher secondary education were able to participate in a competition for best portfolio, with prizes awarded to the top eight. After this debut and its impressive results, we can but wait for the 2018 edition of Fashion Graduate Italia.
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DESIGNED BY CARLOTTA CONCAS & TOMMASO TINO
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©2017 MITCHUMM INDUSTRIES
/
RIDERS
21
SETTEMBRE / OTTOBRE 2016
F FA AB BR RI CI CS S F FOOR R F FA AS SHHI O I ONN
since 1894 since 1894
www.moessmer.it www.moessmer.it
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ITALY ILLUSTRATED F_I_44.indd 21
07/10/16 10:30
New Rules
Vincent Rottiers and Alice Isaaz in Endangered Species (Espèces menacées) (Photo Courtesy of Mars Films)
FA SHI ON
ACC ESS ORI ES
Your Love, It Lies
Luxury Athleisure
An eclectic mix of cult pieces and contrasting prints and patterns.
A selection of the most innovative sneakers, both for her and for him.
PAGE
44
PAGE
52
Your Love, It Lies STYLE_ GIULIANO
DEIDDA
PHOTOGRAPHY_ FRANCESCO MODELS_ LUDMILLA
BERTOLA
ATKINS @ MONSTER, DAVIDE FERRARI @ ÉLITE
HAIR & MAKE-UP_ GIUSEPPE
LORUSSO @ CLOSE UP MILANO
PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT_ LUCA
TRELANCE
LUDMILLA WOOL JERSEY JACKET, TERRE
ALTE PUGLISI PRINTED CALFSKIN PUMPS, BOTTEGA VENETA SATIN DRESS, FAUSTO
DAVIDE WOOL TWO BUTTONS SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET,
TAGLIATORE
COTTON POPLIN SHIRT, COTTON FLAT-FRONT TROUSERS AND CALFSKIN SNEAKERS, ALL BY BOTTEGA COTTON SOCKS, BORGHI
UOMO
VENETA
PRINTED VISCOSE SATIN BOMBER JACKET, FAUSTO
PUGLISI KNITTED WOOL CREW-NECK AND WOOL SKIRT, ALL BY MIU MIU
WOOL BOMBER JACKET WITH LEATHER SLEEVES, KNITTED WOOL CARDIGAN AND WOOL FLAT-FRONT TROUSERS, ALL BY VALENTINO SUEDE AND LEATHER SNEAKERS, VALENTINO
GARAVANI
WOOL TWO BUTTONS SINGLE-BREASTED TUXEDO JACKET WITH SATIN LAPELS, ROYAL KNITTED WOOL TURTLENECK SWEATER, LABORATORI DENIM FLAT-FRONT TROUSERS, BOTTEGA
ITALIANI VENETA
ROW
LUDMILLA
PRINTED JERSEY DRESS, MARIA
GRAZIA SEVERI BERWICH PRINTED SILK AND FUR SCARF, PIERRE-LOUIS MASCIA DENIM PANTS, MADAME
DAVIDE
LINEN AND WOOL DENIM PLEATED TROUSERS, TELA CALFSKIN SNEAKERS, BOTTEGA
VENETA
GENOVA
LUDMILLA
DENIM JACKET, ROY
ROGER’S
DAVIDE
SHEEPSKIN JACKET, SALVATORE
SANTORO 5
WOOL PANTS, DEPARTMENT
KNITTED ANGORA CARDIGAN WITH EMBROIDERED CRYSTALS, WORSTED WOOL JERSEY BLOUSE, KNITTED ANGORA SKIRT, ANGORA SOCKS WITH EMBROIDERED CRYSTALS AND CALFSKIN LOAFERS, ALL BY PRADA
Luxury Athleisure ANNA PAOLA STRONA PHOTOGRAPHY_ H2O STYLE_
VELVET AND RUBBER SNEAKERS WITH FUR DETAILS, ETRO
RUBBERIZED LEATHER HIGH-TOPS, GIUSEPPE
ZANOTTI DESIGN
CALFSKIN HIGH-TOPS, MARNI
GLITTER FLOCKED VELVET SNEAKERS WITH LEATHER DETAILS, PHILIPPE
MODEL
GLITTER SOFT LEATHER SNEAKERS WITH EMBROIDERED BEADS, MIU
MIU
LEATHER SNEAKERS WITH STUDS, BRIMARTS
58
Wishlist
DECEMBER 2017
DESIGN
SURREAL
VERSACE HOME Le Jardin de Versace print cushions
BY FRANCESCA MANUZZI
RICHARD GINORI La Mano Trionfo Italiano, porcelain shape with pure gold decoration. Design Gio Ponti
BLOW by JOB & SELETTI Egg, pocelain plate
CATUMA EYEWEAR Grecale, Handmade in Puglia spectacles, Artchitecture collection
MARNI Visitors, painted wood and coloured resins puppet
DOLCE&GABBANA e SMEG Sicily is my love, mixer with South of Italy geometric decorations
MARTINELLI LUCE Minipipistrello, cordless portable and dimmable table lamp, with rechargeable battery and touch sensor
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA COUTURE Turntable M&D, woven leather record player
CULTI MILANO
SOLARI
Rosa di Brera, perfumed candle
Cifra 3 Colette edition, limited edition clock, released for the anniversary of the Parisian concept store
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JANUARY 13 14 15, 2018 MEN’S AND WOMEN’S COLLECTIONS + PRE-COLLECTIONS Fall Winter 18/19
OUR LOCATIONS
Tortona 27 -Superstudio Più Tortona 54 - Ex Ansaldo Milan
FOLLOW US WWW.WHITESHOW.COM
WHITESHOW
Fashion Illustrated_Gennaio.indd 1
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WHITESHOW
19/12/17 15:18
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Highlights 2 LIFESTYLE
THE WALL The wall as civilization and not inert matter. The psychological wall, the public one, functional or social, memory, expression or political wall. The infinite uses of a single term go on show at Palazzo Belloni in Bologna with the exhibition The Wall, which runs until the 6May 6th 2018. A sensory and creative journey which transforms art and multimedia into a first hand experience. In this sense, the exhibition offers the visitor a multimedia journey of experience with interactive displays created expressly for the exhibition, but also a historic story, literary references, video, songs and works of art from the greats, Giovanni Battista Piranesi, Arnaldo Pomodoro, Giuseppe Uncini, Mimmo Rotella and Lucio Fontana. Right up to the room dedicated to those to whom The Wall shouted it in music, Pink Floyd. Between reality and social abstraction.
AN ITALIAN IN AMERICA A first work by Maurizio Sapia. The work of the photographer, born in San Remo in 1966, has been bound in a monograph edited by All Around Art. During the solo show at EB Gallery in Los Angeles, the publishing house dedicated a volume to the creative artist’s work. An anthology, which tells the artist’s entire journey from 2000 to the most recent experiments, researching, documenting and subdividing them into thematic areas to illustrate the chronological development of the main photographic series. Over fifty images, accompanied by an essay on the historical setting of the work and an interview with the author; as well as a series of multimedia content, accessed by QR code to explain the Sapia method, and give depth to its poetry. The coffee table book is also available in a special edition of 25 copies (5 subjects) which includes an original photo signed by the artist.
SNAPPY Snappy is a key player once again. The famous pen which snaps, gets new editing and illustrations; from maritime landscapes to holiday celebrations. A piece of history with its roots in the eighties and nineties, when over one hundred million were sold throughout the world and which continues to evolve, whilst maintaining the somatic traits of its heritage. The onomatopoeic name Snappy came from the pen of Pietro Larizza, the Milanese designer who in 1983 designed this ball point pen to have the largest printable surface in the world. In 2014, the original ToyPen, during a total digital boom, makes a comeback in a panoply of rainbow colours, as an icon of timeless design in major Italian stores, from La Rinascente, to Mondadori store and Rizzoli Galleria, Libreria Hoepli and in museum bookshops, such the Triennale and the Museo del Novecento in Milan and the Biennale in Venice. The most recent examples of Snappy were a series of collectables, from those dedicated to the first night of Madame Butterfly at the Teatro della Scala, to the collaboration with Rigadritto, the boutique stationers in the heart of Brera, created by Giancarlo Naj Oleari, to the collaboration with NASA - A Human Adventure for the exhibition organized in Milan. And again, the collaboration with the artists Alfredo Pieramati or Carla Mura and his Architetture sensibili; the liaison with Fabbrica del Vapore for the exhibition Revolution, but also the possibility of creating a made to measure Snappy for yourself.
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Fashion Who Reads
DECEMBER 2017
SPECIAL GUEST
FASHION AS AN EXPRESSION OF
PERSONALITY BY LINDA MESSERKLINGER
I
Artwork by Nicola Gobbetto
like to think of myself as an explorer of art and life. As far as acting is concerned, I try to enjoy it as if it were a very creative game. I don’t think of it as having very much to do with fiction. As the great Anna Magnani said “When I am acting, I am truly acting”. I think that, essentially, actors are the worst at pretending. They can however become masters of lightness and versatility, because perhaps they learn to not burden themselves with life, by over identifying with situations and roles and most of all through their own judgements on the world. This is what interests me. The subject of mimicry is something different. It is fascinating to transform yourself into someone who is nothing like you, it is stimulating to learn things which you have never tried before and it is also a way of avoiding being labelled. It is of primary importance for me, to shift my limits through study and training. Costumes are fundamental in this job, you dress up and then you play, just as children do. When I was little, I used to say I wanted to be a fashion designer, I often drew female figures with well-defined costumes, then I understood that I was drawing characters rather than clothes. I like it when cinema is more inclined to experimentation in this sense. I’m thinking of Justin Kurzel’s Macbeth, with Michael Fassbinder, where he didn’t limit himself to a literal reconstruction of the costumes. I am myself surrounded by designer friends, like Stella Tosco of serien°umerica, whose wearable bags I love. Fashion has a meaning for me when the clothes allow each person’s individuality to become visible. It is a question of representation of self, of what kind of vibration you want to create. This is true both at work and in everyday life. It is not so much what you wear, but rather the intention behind it, the fact of taking care of your own body and giving it value, taking time to listen to it and feel it as though it were a sacred space, one that is magical, rich with resources and possibilities. And to play with it, of course, as freely as possible. Artists like Patti Smith or Laurie Anderson are, for me, masters of freedom and love, I consider them to be a little like spiritual mothers. I find inspiration in their thoughts and in their works, as brave and creative women crossing different artistic disciplines. From cinema, I really love Tilda Swinton, she is committed to art and a producer as well as an exceptional actress and icon of contemporary aesthetics. In my project SHAPE_ SHIFT, which deals precisely with the theme of transformation, I take elements from these wonderful women and from many other artists and authors of the avant-garde.
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Salento
NEW ISSUE 9 JANUARY 2018
EVENT “ENTERTAINMENT APARTMENT” The world of videogames and consoles meets the public: challenges, news and entertainment
26th - 27th - 28th JANUARY Milano Fashion Library - Via Alessandria, 8 entertainmentillustrated.it
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