Mine jewellery autumn 2017 2

AUTUMN 2017

M I N E

#MI NERoc k s

RENEE STEWART

WE

ROCK!

❡ BIG, B OLD AND BEAUTIFUL – MINE looks at some serious rocks ❡ When HARRY met MINE ❡ WATCH IT YOU! When telling the time just isn’t enough ❡ Don’t go DROWNING IN DIAMONDS – actually DO!

EDITOR’S LETTER

Shine bright

P ORT R A I T B Y N ATO W E LTO N

Diamonds make everyone sit up and take notice – especially big fat juicy ones. Who is going to quarrel with me on that? No one who’s reading this, I imagine…

We can, of course, live without them and any other precious stones. But few of us are interested in living a life without beauty – and fine jewellery is right up there with any Picasso, Rembrandt or whatever floats your boat. The difference is that this is art you can wear and that embodies your spirit – whether because of the sentiment behind it or because its allure and style enhance your own.

Jewellery is powerful. Its design can signal something personal about you, and it can serve as a reminder of an event – the birth of a child, your eighteenth birthday, your fortieth – or simply as a reminder of the person who gifted it to you.

The best illustrations of these sentiments are the engagement rings and wedding bands that we wear to show our commitment to another. Throughout history, jewellery has been used as a touchable token of love and promises, of friendship and adoration. The object sends a message while the design says something personal about the wearer.

I cherish my wedding rings – not because of their value but because of what they say to me. From the love story of their origin, through the experience of receiving them, to the tale that continues. These are moments of incomparable happiness, vividly sealed by precious stones.

And I’m sure we all agree that, if we’re going to wear something, it may as well be with the greatest style. So it is with great enjoyment that we’ve rounded up the finest jewels for you – from practical yet fabulously dramatic timepieces, selected by Tanya Philipson, to the latest styles in precious stones, brought to us by Hetty Chidwick. Sarah Royce-Greensill reports on the year’s unmissable high jewellery moments, while Robyn Hamilton looks at the most fashionable pieces around.

Astrid X EDITOR

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24 Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4HT www.garrard.com

MINE JEWELLERY / AUTUMN 2017

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CROWN JEWELS 39

11 STATE OF THE ART

Fit for a queen and steeped in history,

Must-haves from Jessica McCormack, Sotheby’s,

Garrard’s new collection is rather special

Louis Vuitton, Marco Bicego and Four Seasons

DIAMOND DINING 40

16 FALL IN LOVE

Afternoon tea just got even more glamorous

MINE takes a look at the season’s supreme jewellery trends

CURRENTLY TRENDING 52 22 MINE LOVES… WATCHING IT!

SS18 couture creations lend themselves to looks that just need the right jewels

The most fabulous, sought-after, luxurious, oneof-a-kind and, frankly, best watches of the season

GOLDEN DAYS 58 29 MARRY ME, HARRY

Wow them with diamonds by New York’s finest

Make your home as magnificent as your jewellery box with our interiors edit

32 BRIGHT IDEAS

SOMEONE TO WATCH OVER ME 61

Luxury can come with a conscience. We talk to a Rolex Awards for Enterprise winner

Le dernier cri en cristal? We examine the year’s finest couture collections

HETTY CHIDWICK

ROBERT JAMES

TANYA PHILIPSON

JESSICA DINER

ZOYA KALEEVA

SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL

SOPHIE GOODWIN

LARRY KING

JAVIER SALVADOR

ROBYN HAMILTON

BRUNO MACDONALD

GEOFF WARING

YASMIN HEINZ

BENJAMIN MALLEK

NATO WELTON

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�lia

www.adler.ch

THE WOODLAND CHARM BRACELET

LONDON

ST MORITZ

LO N D O N

NEW YORK

ST MORITZ

B E V E R LY H I L L S

NEW YORK

B E V E R LY H I L L S

MIAMI MIAMI

OSAKA

T O KYO

OSAKA

A S P R E Y. C O M

A S P R E Y. C O M

BRAND NEW

SERIOUS DIAMONDS

World-famous auction house Sotheby’s has utilised its expertise, legacy and trust to birth an exclusive jewellery salon.

The intimate Sotheby’s Diamonds feels like a precious jewel box, offering unique and exceptional creations – notably the D Flawless assembly of rare, near perfect stones, and collections including Ricci and Belle Époque. Rooted in tradition, the space is tranquil yet seriously sophisticated and elegant.

A long awaited and much needed addition to New Bond Street. sothebysdiamonds.com

SHE’S GOT IT

There’s never a dull moment with the ever evolving, never disappointing Jessica McCormack. Since dancing onto the London scene, the Kiwi designer has created unfailingly chic yet realistically wearable pieces.

Her new collections are as sparkling and alluring as they are inspired.

Chi Chi derives its name and look from ancient Chinese fortune-telling, while the nimble and pretty movement of light is evoked in Trip the Light Fantastic, celebrating the glamourous days when women dressed up to dance. jessicamccormack.com

STATE OF THE ART

The newest additions to our must-have wishlists

GO SMART

The Tambour Horizon smartwatch enhances Louis Vuitton’s vision of travel accessories that are as beautiful as they are practical. Choices abound: black, graphite or monogram, with thirty detachable straps each for women and men. Uniquely among luxury watches, the faces can be customized, while exclusive functions include My Flight (time, terminal, gate etc) and City Guide (the best addresses and sights). And there are all the expected elements: notifications of calls, texts and emails; weather reports; step counter etc. Playful yet luxe, the Tambour Horizon is a powerful tool and a personalised treasure. louisvuitton.com

M I N E LOV E S … …Marco Bicego’s new Marrakech Supreme jewellery range, exclusive to Harvey Nichols. Pavé diamonds, combined with Bicego’s signature solid gold modern pieces, conjure an exceptionally striking, shimmering collection. Look out for both opera-length and multistranded chokerstyle necklaces, along with bold bracelets, earrings and rings. This is for the woman who embraces modern luxury any day, time or place. harveynichols.com

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BRAND NEW

Blue Diamond products from the acclaimed Omorovicza, and lovely views from the Four Seasons Hotel London spa

TRUE BLUE A fabulous facial, courtesy of Omorovicza and Four Seasons

C

an you get any more fabulous than literally applying diamonds to your face?

No, you can’t – so do it, courtesy of the spa at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane and its new Omorovicza Blue Diamond facial.

This ninety-minute anti-ageing treatment firms and brightens skin while dramatically reducing dullness. And it increases collagen and elastin production, thanks to the unique combination of potent ingredients in Omorovicza Blue Diamond products; the groundbreaking Hungarian skincare brand adored by beauty journalists.

The result: beautifully defined facial contours. The treatment itself – incorporating Omorovicza’s signature Hungarian techniques – takes in the face, neck, shoulders and décolleté, finishing around the eyes.

And then there’s the spa itself, spanning the hotel’s entire tenth floor, and boasting 360 degrees of London’s best views. There’s nowhere like it. fourseasons.com/london/spa

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L’Intégral Anti-Âge The Ultimate Gift for your Skin

Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge NEW Sisleÿa L’Intégral Eye Contour Cream

#MySisleya 2

Discover more at sisley-paris.com

A U T U M N S TAT E M E N T

FALL IN Hetty Chidwick picks the

season’s supreme trends

LOVE G arrard Classic with a rocky edge, these are as striking as jeans with a gown. ‘Wings’ 18-carat white gold hoop earrings, POA, garrard.com

D a v i d M o r r i s Half flowers, half fireworks, these will cause a stir. ‘Cherry blossom’ ear cuffs in white gold with pink, yellow and white brilliant cut diamond, POA, davidmorris.com

G r a f f Go graphic with this slinky, too-many-diamonds-to-count pair. ‘Multishape’ earrings, POA, graffdiamonds.com

Annoushka Art Deco delights from the jeweller known for playful and vibrant designs.

White and rose gold and diamond ‘Flamenco’ earrings, £28,000, Annoushka.com

G a r r a r d Gracing the necks, ears and wrists of royalty since 1735, Garrard presents stunners to light up evening wear.

Diamond and emerald earrings, POA, Garrard.com

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A d l e r A serious statement from a creator of exquisite jewellery since 1886.

White gold, diamond and sapphire ‘Naïla’ earrings, POA, adler.ch

R i t z The world-famous hotel makes world-class fine high jewellery, such as these three-tiered ‘chandelier’ earrings, POA, ritzfinejewellery.com

D a v i d M o r r i s These magnificent creations will set your face alight. ‘Phoenix’ earrings with white rose cut pear-shape diamonds and white brilliant cut diamonds, POA, davidmorris.com

DROP DEAD GORGEOUS NO THING LIGHT S UP THE RO O M – A N D YOU R FAC E – L I K E M AGN IFICE N T E A R R ING S

Kiki McDonough Set the room on fire with these ‘Special editions’ peridot and lemon quartz drop earrings with diamond detail, £4,900, kiki.co.uk

B o o d l e s Feminine charm radiates from the family jeweller’s ‘Waterlily’ collection.

‘Waterlily’ earrings with pink morganite, pink sapphire and diamond set in platinum, POA, Boodles.com

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A U T U M N S TAT E M E N T

A d l e r Quite simply out of this world. White and yellow gold ‘Interstellar’ ring with diamond and fancy intense yellow diamond, POA, adler.ch

GOING FOR GOLD Y ELL OW G OLD IS FOR A LL D A Y, E V E R Y D A Y – E V E N W HEN A DOR NED W ITH SER IOUS DI A MONDS B u l g a r i A nod to the past, as with many of Bulgari’s iconic designs since its 1940s origins. High jewellery necklace with pavé diamonds, POA, bulgari.com

A s p r e y Ideal for autumn, this leaf design is timely and timeless. ‘Oak leaf’ bangle with pavé diamonds, POA, asprey.com

M a r c o B i c e g o Renowned for modern pieces using traditional methods, Marco Bicego’s favourite medium is yellow gold. Multistrand ‘Masai’ bracelet, £28,730, marcobicego.com

C h a n e l From the house with serious jewellery credentials, a fashion-forward heirloom for future generations. Yellow gold and diamond ‘Golden braid’ ring, POA, chanel.com

R i t z Youthful yet ageless, this may be worn by grandmothers and granddaughters alike. Yellow gold and diamond bracelet, POA, ritzfinejewellery.com

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Kiki McDonough Daytime diamonds are /de rigueur/ thanks to delicate pieces such as this.

Feather white gold and diamond double necklace, £2,900, kiki.co.uk

B o u c h e r o n This symbol of immortality, peace and prosperity will, according to Greek myth, protect its wearer. ‘Hera the peacock’ ring with sapphires, £18,600, harrods.com

Va n C l e e f & A r p e l s Van Cleef – known for startlingly intricate design – doesn’t disappoint with these vibrant ‘D’OreillesOiseaux de Paradis’ earrings, POA, vancleefarpels.com

FLIGHTS OF FANCY F L Y AW A Y W I T H THESE DRE A M Y PIE CE S , I NSPIR ED

BY E XO T IC BIR D S

Moussaieff One of the world’s most treasured and precious gems, Paraiba tourmaline is at the heart of this showstopper.

Titanium diamond feather necklace, POA, moussaieff.co.uk

G r a f f Brooches are in vogue once more: pin them on jackets or belts, or even in your hair. Diamond ‘lovebirds’ brooch, POA, graffdiamonds.com

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RARE AND MAGNIFICENT JEWELS

RARE AND MAGNIFICENT JEWELS

LONDON Tel: +44 (0)20 7290 1536

GENEVA HONG KONG COURCHEVEL www.moussaieff-jewellers.com info@moussaieff.co.uk

GRAFF Less a watch than a living work of art, this brings diamonds, pink Tahitian mother-ofpearl and a whirling tourbillon together in a creation fit for Chelsea.

‘MasterGraff Floral Tourbillon’ watch, POA, graffdiamonds.com

The most fabulous, soughtafter, luxurious, one-of-a-kind and, frankly, best watches of the season.

Selected by

MINE LOVES…

Tanya Philipson

WATCHING IT! 22

TIMEPIECES PAT E K P H I L I P P E A masterclass in diamond-setting: the dial, case, lugs and clasp are set with twenty-five sizes and shapes; the hands with baguette diamonds. Mechanical self-winding Aquanaut Luce haute joaillerie, rose gold, POA, patek.com

C A R T I E R Adorned with amethyst and diamonds galore, and a purple sapphire, this creative interpretation of an orchid is impossible to ignore. High jewellery figurative watch, rhodiumfinished, white gold, purple sapphire, amethyst, diamond, £780,000, cartier.com

H A R R Y W I N S TO N Inspired by the ‘Winston Legacy’ diamond, acquired by the house in 2013, this work of art’s bracelet and dial total nearly 27 carats. Unique high jewellery timepiece crafted in platinum, POA, harrywinston.com

B O O D L E S The ‘Raindance’ watch is inspired by Boodles’ ring of the same name – cited by the V&A as an icon of British jewellery.

18-carat rose gold, pink mother-of-pearl dial and diamond, alligator leather strap, £30,000, boodles.com

D I O R Poised on a bracelet set with pink diamonds shaded into the gems, La D de Dior’s ‘Précieuse’ blends the house’s spirit and creative daring with Swiss know-how.

‘Précieuse’, white gold, diamond and pink diamond, POA, dior.com

“DIOR’S SPIR I T A ND SW ISS K NOWHOW ” 23

D E B E E R S A true collector’s item: there are only four in the world. Each showcases more than 750 diamonds – a total 17.48 carats. Full pavé cuff watch, aventurine dial, white diamond in white gold, POA, debeers.com

TIMEPIECES LO N G I N E S Ideal for eveningwear: a piece that displays phases of the moon. Master Collection ‘L2.673.4.51.7’, stainless steel and sapphire crystal, £2,340, longines.com

A S P R E Y With hands modelled on Big Ben and superior silver components, this is a testament to British elegance and Swiss horology. ‘Entheus R2’, 18-carat rose gold, alligator leather strap, POA, asprey.com

D E G R I S O G O N O Minimalist yet complex, with sapphires united by gold. ‘New Retro Tourbillon No1’, rose gold, alligator leather strap, £101,500, degrisogono.com H A R R Y W I N S TO N Less a watch and more a masterclass in engineering, this is a guaranteed talking point for any of the ten people fortunate enough to wear it. ‘Histoire de Tourbillon 8’, 18 carat white gold with alligator leather strap, POA, harrywinston.com

R O L E X Demand outstripped supply for this ‘off-catalogue’ variant, with thirty-two coloured sapphires, eight green tsavorites and a triangular diamond at twelve o’clock. ‘YachtMaster 40’, everose gold (not as illustrated), £48,100, rolex.com

F E R D I N A N D B E R T H O U D An aperture in this fascinating creation provides a glimpse of its inner beauty and complexity.

Hand-wound mechanics add to its robust, traditional feel. ‘Chronomètre FB1’, white gold, £160,930, williamandson.com

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AD

TIMEPIECES

PAT E K P H I L I P P E Sophisticated simplicity abounds in a creation that clearly yet handsomely illustrates the time, date and moonphase. ‘Grand Complications 5316P’, gold, platinum, sapphirecrystal, with alligator strap, POA, patek.com

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MI N E MORE IS NEVER ENOUGH

TO DICE FOR MINEMAGAZINELONDON.COM @minemagazineldn #MINERocks

B RIDAL

MARRY ME, HARRY!

Vow to wow them with diamonds by New York’s finest

A

good diamond, observed Mr Harry Winston, ‘is a possession to be prized for generations.’

With this in mind, the New Yorker urged each and every bride (and groom) to choose an engagement ring with extra care – because behind every piece would lay a fascinating story.

Winston believed that diamonds, like people, were most precious for the individuality and that they should serve as glittering reminders of wonderful occasions. His passion for perfection meant he attracted a clientele that ranged from heads of state and royalty to Hollywood stars; think of the pear-shaped diamond that Richard Burton gifted to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969 or the Lesotho III engagement ring that Aristotle Onassis gave to Jacqueline Kennedy a year earlier. With every Harry Winston engagement ring, their legacy becomes yours.

Each begins with a rigorous selection process. The diamonds’ carat, clarity and colour are judged at the highest of levels and their weight is, quite rightly, considered secondary to their brilliance. The beauty of a stone’s sparkle is the result of the way that it’s cut: when that’s done well, to exacting proportions, light will dance from within in a delightful fashion that creates a universal excitement. Each Harry Winston diamond is cut and polished to augment its beauty.

Beyond this, the design and craftsmanship is painstaking, ensuring each stone is showcased to its best advantage. Side stones, again, go through a rigorous process to complement and enhance the centrepiece. Minute detail is used to maximum effect, and the stones are secured by Harry Winston’s iconic split-prong motif, which blends into the beautiful designs.

The new pear-shaped cluster diamond ring displays the house’s signature diamond-led philosophy. It brilliantly balances seven stones, which let light in and appear to float – sheer genius.

‘Each diamond has a different nature,’ Harry noted. ‘Each diamond must be handled the way you handle a person.’

171 New Bond Street, London, 020 7907 8800, www.harrywinston.com

The captivating creations of Harry Winston – including, far left, the ‘Brilliant Love’ ring and, left, the pearshaped cluster diamond ring

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BY

APPOINTMENT

O N LY

DESIGN

PERFUMES

A LOVE AFFAIR A love affair is in the DNA of By Appointment Only Design Perfumes, and to echo this, the ten stunning fragrances in the home collection are presented in Italian crystal. The collection also features diffusers, crafted in beautiful complementing Italian crystal bottles. (Diffusers available in five fragrances only).

By Appointment Only Design Perfumes 193 Wardour Street, London, W1F 8ZF www.byappointmentonlydesignperfumes.com

COUTURE

BRIGHT IDEAS Le dernier cri en cristal? Sarah Royce-Greensill examines the year’s finest couture collections

T

he streets of Paris may not be paved with gold. But, for a few days in July, the city’s 1st arrondissement is covered in gemstones, as the jewellers of Place Vendôme and the surrounding areas present their most spectacular one-off creations to glamorous, international couture clients.

And in a sparkling show of intent, brands are increasingly looking beyond Paris to showcase their high jewellery collections.

Glamorous parties in Venice, New York, London and the south of France celebrate the unveiling of almost-priceless pieces that have been years in the making.

From Bulgari’s sweet feast to Chanel’s nautical jaunt, we bring you the high jewellery class of 2017.

B U LGAR I F E STA The Bulgari family includes the likes of Lily Aldridge, Bella Hadid, Alicia Vikander and Lottie Moss. All were ebullient as the Italian house launched its latest high jewellery collection in lavish style in Venice.

A celebration of the traditional Italian festa, the range sees creative director Lucia Silvestri unleash her inner child: bejewelled lollipops, Ferris wheels and cakes evoke a giddy sense of glee. But while the motifs are lighthearted, the gems are anything but: a 180-carat sapphire and 59-carat Colombian emerald testify to Bulgari’s prowess in coloured gemstones. Nowhere is this more apparent than in a magnificent necklace of cabochons, capturing the colour and delight of balloons.

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D I O R À VE R SAI LLE S , CÔTÉ JAR D I N S Last year it was the decorative details of the palace of Versailles that inspired Dior’s opulent high jewellery collection. This year, creative director Victoire de Castellane’s gaze was drawn outside, to the manicured gardens in which Marie Antoinette strolled.

The one-of-a-kind pieces see flowerbeds of kaleidoscopically coloured gemstones flow onto neat,orderly rows of emerald box-hedges, with cocktail rings of opal and paraiba tourmaline representing the ornamental ponds typical of this most French of formal gardens. Black lacquer scrolls evoke wrought iron gates, carved rock crystal shells are inspired by garden sculptures, and a sizeable emerald conceals a gemstone-encrusted watch face.

The gardens’ horticultural splendours have been miniaturised, but in no way tamed: each piece is abundantly precious, and fit for a queen.

CHAN E L F LY I N G CLO U D Coco Chanel’s Rue Cambon apartment is iconic, with its coromandel screens and lashings of superstitious knick-knacks.

But less is known about her Côte d’Azur retreat, Villa La Pausa, where the designer would base herself during long hot summers aboard the yacht of her lover, the Duke of Westminster.

This holiday home, refurbished by the brand, hosted the launch of the Flying Cloud collection.

Named after that yacht, it’s an ode to Riviera style. Breton stripes appear in sapphire and diamond rings, while nautical motifs abound: from anchors and lifebuoys to ropeknots and sailors’ buttons.

This being Chanel, it’s all supremely chic – think St Tropez, not Southend-on-Sea. Yellow-gold brocade suggests sunny days on board, and varying hues of sapphire evoke the shifting ocean depths.

All aboard!

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COUTURE

CH O PAR D S I LK ROAD High jewellery and couture are a match made in heaven, so a collaboration between Chopard and Chinese fashion designer Guo Pei is a no-brainer. When the designer met Chopard’s artistic director Caroline Scheufele in Cannes in 2015, their shared appreciation of artistry and craftsmanship led them to create the Silk Road collection.

Based on an ethereal, dream-like vision of China, each one-of-a-kind jewel was paired with a couture gown in a runway show in Paris, with the finely set gemstones echoing the painstakingly embroidered fabrics. And the materials were diverse: from a Peter-Pan collar of diamonds set with a removable emerald, to carved jade earrings and a cherry-blossom necklace adorned with silver pearls. But all were united by Scheufele and Guo’s quest for utter beauty.

D E B E E R S LOTU S The lotus flower has intrigued civilisations for centuries. Ancient Egyptians and Buddhists associated it with rebirth, beauty and purity. And it regularly appears in gem form, not least at De Beers, whose Enchanted Lotus range has bloomed into a high jewellery collection.

Five suites chart the flower’s life cycle. In the Awakening Lotus necklace, a unique 18.79-carat bluishgreen raw diamond represents a final drop of water, shaken from its petals.

De Beers’ expertise comes to the fore in the Soothing Lotus necklace (illustrated): over 159 carats of rough and polished diamonds, in varying hues, painstakingly positioned to represent dappled sunset hues on a lily pond. An hypnotic ode to nature.

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HAR RY WI N STO N LEGACY After three years’ leave from high jewellery, Harry Winston came back with a bang. True to its founder’s reputation as ‘king of diamonds’, the house’s Legacy Collection is made entirely of D-colour, internally flawless white diamonds: the best money can buy.

The range pays homage to the 101.73-carat pear-cut stone – ‘the most perfect diamond ever offered at auction’ – that the company bought in 2013. Pear shapes inform elegant pieces inspired by archive designs. From the sheer quantity of immaculate stones – all 836.68 carats – to the purity of the designs, it’s a welcome return that was worth the wait.

C AR TI E R R É SO NAN CE S Cartier’s 2017 high jewellery range is called ‘Résonances’, and there were certainly reverberations around Pall Mall when the brand announced a break with tradition: it would be showcased not in Paris but in London, at private members’ hangout The Reform Club. For a midsummer fortnight, the hallowed nineteenth-century halls hosted over 600 Cartier creations, including fifty from the new range, which pays homage to the earth’s energy that is held within the precious stones.

A 140.21-carat cabochon emerald is the centrepiece of a majestic tiara that transforms into a necklace. Waves of white diamonds cascade in another neckpiece, finished with three gently quivering briolettes. Pink and blue diamonds appear together in a ring, their sympathique union echoing that of Cartier’s designers and master craftsmen.

VAN CLE E F & AR P E L S LE S ECR E T Transformable jewellery is nothing new, but Van Cleef has form in this area, having created its now iconic Zip necklace – which can be zipped up and worn as a bracelet – in 1950.

The house’s latest range takes transformation to another level, with each piece holding a precious ‘secret’: earrings that have an entirely different bejewelled colour scheme on the reverse, or a ring with a hidden love message that reveals itself if you know exactly where to twist. Enchanting is the word for Van Cleef’s high jewellery fairytale: a ladybird hides behind diamond fern leaves, a love letter falls from the clasp of a spectacular sapphire necklace, a ballerina morphs into a swan.

These acts of whimsy mask impressive engineering: as ever, Van Cleef’s creativity is matched only by its craftsmanship.

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THE CRYSTAL MOON LOUNGE

THE GRAND HOTEL WITH A HEART The Full Moon chandelier created by Parisian designer Chafik Gasmi.

A single red crystal bauble amongst a thousand represents the heart of London’s 21st Century Grand Hotel.

Welcome to Corinthia London.

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON, WHITEHALL PLACE, LONDON SW1A 2BD, UK +44 (0) 20 7930 8181 | RESERVATIONS.LONDON@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM /LONDON

H E R I TA G E

CROWN JEWELS Fit for a queen and steeped in history, Garrard’s new collection is rather special

W

hen we think of the House of Garrard, stunning jewellery – inspired by a grand and colourful history, full of elegance and beauty – comes to mind. But it’s also the world’s longest serving jeweller; and, to celebrate, has launched the Jewelled Vaults. This collection of one-off pieces showcases fine gemstones and a fabulous design heritage.

For nearly three centuries, Garrard has created exquisite jewellery, featuring some of the best known stones; from the Koh-i-Noor diamond in the Queen Mother’s crown to the engagement ring of Diana, Princess of Wales (later adapted for Kate Middleton). The house’s rich history and knowledge of clients and gems informs the new collection, designed around a selection of individual stones.

Inspiration comes from the 1874 marriage of the Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna of Russia to Prince Alfred, son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. On joining the British royal family, Maria commissioned Garrard to build on her own collection of jewellery. Their creations were kept at Clarence House in a heavily guarded walk-in vault, organised by stone colour.

The Jewelled Vaults’ debut range is comprised of twelve pieces. Each features a royal-blue sapphire, pigeon-blood-red ruby or striking emerald from Colombia, all surrounded by diamonds. The pieces may be worn as a suite – ring, earrings and necklace – but are equally striking on their own. All individual in size, cut and setting, they are truly one-of-a-kind.

‘The joy of this collection is a harmonious blend of precious gemstones and Garrard design,’ explains creative director Sara Prentice.

‘The gemstones are striking in themselves, but thoughtful design elevates them yet further.’

The Jewelled Vaults range is available at the House of Garrard in Mayfair, London, and – in keeping with the original commission by the Grand Duchess – will doubtless flourish over time.

24 Albemarle Street London, 020 7518 1070, www.garrard.com

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Above left, Kate wears an adaptation of the ring that Garrard designed for William’s mother, Diana. Above, Garrard craftsmen prepare the Queen Mother’s crown for her daughter’s coronation in 1953. Also illustrated, a selection of the house’s creations

A F TER NOON TE A JUST GOT E V EN MOR E GL A MOROUS, W ITH MINE’S FINEST BLENDS

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1 Diamond, pink sapphire and pearl, white gold bangle, POA, moussaieff.co.uk 2 Morganite and diamond detail, white gold ring, £10,900, kiki.co.uk 3 Amethyst and diamond, white gold ring, POA, adler.ch 4 Saint-Louis ‘Excess’ champagne flute, £390, weddingshop.com 5 Diamond and pink sapphire, black Tahitian pearl ring, £20,000, ritzfinejewellery.com 6 Diamond and amethyst, titanium ring, POA, moussaieff.co.uk 7 Pearl and diamond, white gold ring, £7,500, yokolondon.com 8 Amethyst and diamond, white gold earrings, £11,500, williamandson.com 9 ‘Ribbon Collection’ amethyst and diamond, white gold ring, £4,200, williamandson.com 10 Tourmaline and diamond, white gold necklace, POA, moussaieff.co.uk 11 Philippe Deshoulieres ‘Arcades’ plate, £40.50, weddingshop.com

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1 Yellow diamond and white diamond, yellow gold and platinum ring, POA, debeers.com 2 Bernardaud ‘Eden Turquoise’ cup and saucer, £234, weddingshop.com 3 Pink sapphire and diamond, platinum bracelet, POA, harrywinston.com 4 Diamond rings, POA, debeers.com 5 ‘Aladdin’ golden beryl and sapphire ring, £25,000, ritzfinejewellery.com 6 White and pink diamond, white and rose gold earrings, POA, davidmorris.com

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7 Bernardaud ‘Eden Turquoise’ plate, £156, weddingshop.com 8 Diamond, yellow diamonds and emerald, white and rose gold ring, POA, dior.com 9 Diamond and multicolored diamond, white gold earrings, POA, adler.ch 10 Diamonds and yellow diamonds, white and yellow gold necklace, POA, adler.ch 11 Tourmaline, citrine and diamond, white gold earrings, £8,750, williamandson.com

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“ B R E A K FA S T AT T I F FA N Y ’ S .

T E A AT C L A R I D G E ’ S ”

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ELEGANCE

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1 Platinum diamond watch, POA, harrywinston.com 2 Freshwater pearl and white diamond, white gold ring, POA, garrard.com 3 Pearl and diamond, white gold ring, POA, chanel.com 4 Emerald and diamond, platinum ring, garrard.com 5 Royal Crown Derby ‘Old Avesbury’ plate, £139, weddingshop.com 6 Rollins’ leather plate, as before 7 Diamonds, spinel, sapphire, cultured pearl and onyx, white gold necklace, POA, vancleefarpels.com 8 Mother of pearl, emerald and diamond ring, POA, adler.ch 9 Diamond, onyx and moonstone, white gold earrings, POA, vancleefarpels.com

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3 1 Diamond, white gold earring, POA, adler.ch 2 Diamond and pearl, white gold ring, POA, vancleefarpels.com 3 Freshwater pearl and white diamond, white gold ring, POA, garrard.com 4 Satin clutch, £1,995, jimmychoo.com 5 Coleman Douglas Tahitian pearl necklace, £2,150 (16in), £2,250 (17in), £2,500 (18in), pearls.co.uk 6 ‘Tudor Rose’ pearl and white diamond, white gold collar, POA, garrard.com 7 ‘Crosshatch’ place setting (2 x cups, saucers, side plates), £1,650, asprey.com

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“E V ERY THING STOPS F O R T E A” 47

ELEGANCE

PAGE 38-9 1 Coleman Douglas ‘South Sea’ pearl necklace, £3,900, pearls.co.uk 2 Studded sunglasses, £139, katespade.co.uk 3 Diamond and white gold earrings, POA, Sarah Ho at williamandson.com 4 Sapphire, aquamarine and diamond, platinum bracelet, POA, harrywinston.com 5 ‘Pas de deux’ diamond and platinum bracelet, POA, boodles.com 6 Sapphire and diamond ring, £40,000, ritzfinejewellery.com 7 Diamond, sapphire and emerald pearl ring, £9,000, yokolondon.com 8 South Sea pearl, sapphire and diamond, white gold necklace, £38,000, yokolondon.com 9 Dress, POA, ralphandrusso.com 10 Wedgewood ‘Renaissance’ cup, £31, weddingshop.com 11 William & Son x Sarah Ho aquamarine and diamond, white gold ring, £9,570, williamandson. com 12 Diamond, paraiba tourmaline and emerald, white gold ring, £26,200, dior.com 13 Richard Brendon Meets Patternity tea saucer, £45, weddingshop.com 14 Pearl and diamond white gold ring, POA, chanel.com 15 Diamond and sapphire, yellow and white gold ring, £52,000, jessicamccormack.com 16 Diamond and pink sapphire watch, £23,600, dior.com 17 Richard Brendon Meets Patternity teapot, £195, weddingshop.com 18 Satin with crystal bead embroidery clutch, £2,495, jimmychoo.com 19 Diamond platinum necklace, POA, boodles.com

PAGE 42-3 1 Bernardaud ‘Dune’ plate, £67, weddingshop.com 2 Diamond and tsavorite, rose gold pendant, £48,750, williamandson.com 3 ‘Kendall’ plate, £45, ralphlauren.co.uk 4 Emerald and diamond, white gold necklace, POA, chopard.com 5 Yellow gold, diamond and prasiolite earrings, £3,200, kiki.co.uk 6 White and yellow diamond, white and yellow gold bracelet, POA, davidmorris.com 7 Peridot, aquamarine, tourmaline and diamond, white gold bracelet, POA, chanel.com 8 Dress, POA, katehalfpenny.com 9 Paraiba tourmaline, white gold ring, POA, moussaieff.co.uk 10 ‘Iris’ citrine and diamond ring, £6,180, williamandson.com 11 ‘Aladdin’ golden beryl and sapphire ring, £25,000, ritzfinejewllery.com 12 William & Son x Sarah Ho citrine and diamond, rose gold cocktail ring, £5,570, williamandson.com 13 Diamond, yellow diamond and emerald, white and yellow gold bracelet, POA, dior.com

20 Diorific Khôl, £29.50, dior.com 21 Diorific Vernis Liner Precious Rocks, £20.50, dior.com 22 Sapphire and diamond platinum pendant necklace, £54,000, boodles.com 23 La Laque Couture, £19.50; Rouge Pur Couture, £28; Vernis À Lèvres Primary Edition, £27; Blush Volupté, £33.50, all yslbeauty.co.uk 24 Victorian diamond and sapphire bangle, £42,500, bentley-skinner.co.uk 25 Blue topaz and diamond necklace, £14,500, kiki.co.uk 26 Sapphire and diamond, white and yellow gold earrings, £32,000, jessicamccormack.com 27 William & Son x Sarah Ho aquamarine and diamond, white gold pendant necklace, £10,905, williamandson.com 28 Crosshatch sugar bowl, part of set, asprey.com 29 Sapphire and diamond necklace, £100,000, ritzfinejewellery.com 30 Aquamarine and diamond, white gold bracelet, £19,600, asprey.com 31 Christofle ‘Jardin d’Eden’ silverplated fork, £68, weddingshop.com 32 Sapphire, diamond and pearl earrings, £15,000, yokolondon.com 33 Sapphire, aquamarine and diamond in platinum set, POA, harrywinston.com 34 Satin clutch, £1,995, jimmychoo.com 35 Wedgewood ‘Renaissance’ dinner plate, £35, weddingshop.com 36 Richard Brendon Meets Patternity plate, £40, weddingshop.com Nails (throughout), Eliza at Nails & Brows Mayfair, nailsandbrows.me

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14 Yellow gold bracelet, £9,375, asprey.com 15 ‘Leopard’ tea set, £850, ralphlauren.co.uk 16 Yellow diamond and emerald, white and yellow gold necklace, POA, dior.com 17 YSL and Dior makeup as before 18 Diamond, tsavorite garnet and emerald, white gold ring, £21,300, dior.com 19 ‘Rollins’ leather charger plate, £195, ralphlauren.co.uk 20 ‘Ballet’ citrine and diamond, rose gold earrings, £11,900, williamandson 21 Gold, peridot, aquamarine, tourmaline and diamond, white gold ring, POA, chanel.com 22 Emerald, diamond and white gold necklace, POA, garrard.com 23 Yellow gold ring, £1,675, asprey.com 24 ‘160/S’ with golden chain sunglasses, £220, marcjacobs.com 25 Diamond and yellow gold flower pendant, £7,800, asprey.com 26 Emerald and diamond, white gold earrings, POA, chopard.com 27 Diamond, yellow diamond and emerald, white and rose gold ring, POA, dior.com

1 Diamond platinum necklace, POA, boodles.com 2 Diamond, ruby, mother of pearl, white gold watch with alligator leather strap, POA, harrywinston.com 3 Ruby, white and yellow gold ring, £18,500, jessicamccormack.com 4 Ruby and diamond platinum ring, POA, boodles.com 5 Diamond platinum ring, £35,000, boodles.com 6 Richard Brendon Meets Patternity plate, £40, weddingshop.com 7 Murano champagne flute, £1,380 for 6, asprey.com 8 Moonstone, pink opal and diamond, white gold bracelet, £40,000, boodles.com 9 Pearl and ruby earrings, £6,500, yokolondon.com

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1 Rose Carvalho Mandala of Spirituality ring, white gold, amethyst, diamond 2 Marco Bicego Paradise necklace, yellow gold, aquamarine 3 Picchiotti 8165 bracelet, white/rose gold, diamond 4 Rose Carvalho Mandala of Desire ring 5 Picchiotti Xpandable WMOP bracelet, rose gold, mother of pearl, diamond 6 Roberto Coin Unique pendant, white gold, diamond, morganite 7 Lily Gabriella Damali earrings, white gold, white diamond, amethyst

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PRO M OTIO N

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Pastel-toned gemstones and sparkling diamonds were the theme for Couture at Claridge’s – a showcase of international fine jewellery and luxury accessories at the Mayfair hotel. Hosted by Facets PR, guests enjoyed champagne, mingled with designers and tried on the exquisite jewellery – much of which was making its London debut. Designers included fresh talents Rose Carvalho, Lily Gabriella and Kyosun Jung, and Italian fine jewellers Picchiotti, Marco Bicego and Roberto Coin.

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1 Marco Bicego bracelet, white gold, diamond 2 Roberto Coin Arabian Horse bracelet, diamond, onyx, white gold 3 Lily Gabriella Infinitas earrings, white gold, diamond 4 Lily Gabriella Infinitas ring, white gold, diamond 5 Rose Carvalho Mandala of Time ring, white gold, quartz, diamonds 6 Kyosun Jung clutch

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VALENTINO

C U R R E N T LY

TRENDING Couture is created to be beautiful, not spearhead trends. But SS18’s creations lend themselves to looks that just need the right jewels to be pitch perfect. By Robyn Hamilton

À LA MODE

DOLCE & GABBANA

Diamond, sapphire and white gold earrings, £64,000, vancleefarpels.com

Steel and diamond watch, £7,600, chanel.com

CHANEL

TAILOR-MADE

Ruby and diamond bracelet, POA, graffdiamonds.com

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

LOVE BLOOMS DOLCE & GABBANA

Pink and white diamond brooch, POA, sothebysdiamonds.com

Diamond and white gold watch, £23,280, Charles Oudin at williamandson.com

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Colombian emerald and white diamond earrings in white gold, POA, davidmorris.com

Necklace, £379, Sydney Evan at harrods.com

MAKE IT BIG

TOM FORD

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

'90s STYLE Diamond, ruby, turquoise, sapphire and yellow gold bracelet, £57,000, vancleefarpels.com

Pink gold, rubellite, amethyst and pavé diamond earrings, £32,400, bulgari.com

Peony diamond and ruby earrings, POA, garrard.com

VERSACE

STELLA McCARTNEY

Gold earrings, £1,175, Tiffany at harrods.com

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À LA MODE ‘Storm’ ring in white gold with diamond, POA, asprey.com

RALPH & RUSSO

‘Diwali’ white gold necklace with diamonds, POA, adler.ch

DELPOZO Diamond bracelet, £14,000, ritzfinejewellery.com

MARCHESA

FINE FEATHER DIOR Platinum and diamond necklace, POA, boodles.com

White gold necklace with tourmaline, pearl and diamond, POA, louisvuitton.com

CHANEL

LE DÉCOLLÉTE 55

Strengthening bonds beau www.halcyondays.co.uk

|

27 The Royal Exchange, Thread

utifully for over 65 years

dneedle Street, London EC3V 3LP

|

+44(0)203 725 8001

Dragon bowl, £1,270, eu.l-objet.com Four Seasons vase, £4,000, asprey.com

Esmeralda perfume diffuser, £1,556, Visionnaire at harrods.com

GOLDEN DAYS

Make your home as magnificent as your jewellery box, with Robert James’ interiors edit

M

ove away from cold chrome and minimalist silver detail, and embrace soft, warm, lustrous and luxurious gold.

While we keep our precious diamonds and jewellery safely locked away until we’re ready to wear them, our homes should be dressed to the nines for every occasion.

Never underestimate how a well-dressed home makes us feel – and gold has been used since the days of the Egyptians and the Romans. Team it with whites and creams for elegance, or black for impact and opulence.

Aragon brass and amethyst box, POA, katharinepooley.com

Hexagon liqueur set in amber crystal, £1,000, asprey.com

Napoleon Bee cushion, £108, timorousbeasties.com

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DÉCOR

Champs-Élysées chandelier, £39,600, Lalique, 47 Conduit St, London W1S 2YP

L’Eclaireuse candle, £265 (900g), Fornasetti at selfridges.com

Swan bowl, £465 (large), eu.l-objet.com Golden Oriole wallpaper panels, £1,080 each, timorousbeasties.com

“ G O L D I S S O F T, WA R M, LUS T ROUS A ND LU X U R IOUS”

Silver Trillion bowl, £3,200, kyosunjung.co.uk

Versailles cupboard, £27,516, Visionnaire at harrods.com

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A LITTLE MESSAGE FROM US AT MINE …

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WE CAN ALL GET LOST IN THE sparkle of precious rocks, or blinded by the allure of diamonds. But it’s good – and wise – to stop and take stock on occasion. The jewellery industry is full of passionate people, dedicated to their art – an art that runs much deeper than standing on a shop floor and telling you something looks good rolling around your finger. It is an industry that creates jobs the world over, and an industry that cares profoundly about sustainability and all that entails. All jewellers, especially those we support at MINE, uphold both pride in their work and an awareness of their social responsibility (see, for example, our Rolex feature, right) – and, for that, we salute them.

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1 18ct yellow gold, amethyst, citrine and ametrine tsar earrings, £11,500, annoushka.com 2 Earrings, £13,200, Fernando Jorge at harrods.com 3 Vintage Collection white gold earrings, £4,900, williamandson.comx 4 Yellow gold and diamond ring, £7,900, www.boucheron.com 5 White gold and diamond bracelet, POA, www.boucheron.com 6 White gold and diamond watch, POA, bulgari.com 7 Yellow gold, citrine and diamond ring, £6,180, williamandson.com 8 Yellow gold, tourmaline, malachite and diamond necklace, £39,000, chanel.com 9 Vintage collection yellow gold ring, £1,875, williamandson.com 10 White gold, diamond and baroque cultured pearl ring, POA, vancleefarpels.com 11 White and rose gold, diamond bangle, £7,7700, clogau.com 12 Rare beryl and diamond ring, £8,400, Williamandson.com

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RESPONSIBILITY

SOMEONE TO

WATCH OVER ME Luxury can come with a conscience.

The Rolex Awards for Enterprise recently celebrated forty years and the funding of some 140 philanthropic projects. Catherine

Nelson-Pollard

talks to one pioneering winner

P Rolex Award winner Andrew Bastawrous (above right) develops apps to help people in need in low-income countries

reventing people in low-income countries going blind from treatable diseases is the aim of British eye surgeon Andrew Bastawrous. His Peek Vision project can treat and follow up thousands of people at a time: the School Eye Health solution alone has screened over 100,000 children.

How does Peek work?

We have smartphone apps that measure a person’s vision in the hands of nonspecialists such as teachers or community health workers. Every decision is based on where we can make the most positive change. Only then do we ask, ‘How do we generate an income?’ Governments stand to benefit over the lifetime of sighted people. We’re establishing government contracts, becoming sustainable through a payment-by-results mechanism.

How do you handle the workload?

It’s about finding good people, investing in them and empowering them to run things. The project manager in Kenya went to India to train the team without my input. He hadn’t been on a plane before but started a project that now has its own excellent team.

Can you describe your work with NGOs? We’re engaged with CBM International and Australia’s Fred Hollows Foundation. They have a

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footprint that, between them, covers almost 100 countries. We add value to their work and they add scale to what we do.

You used your Rolex Award funding to set up a Centre of Excellence in Kenya…

We worked with a fantastic Australian-based architect team called Troppo to scope the design.

The next stage is to raise the money to start building, in parallel with building the team around Dr Rono, an inspirational Kenyan ophthalmologist.

You accepted the Rolex Award on behalf of a young Kenyan mother who walked miles on the rumour that you were running an eye clinic…

She’s doing well and pursuing further education.

Another story is that of Ekai, who took a lot of persuading. He was very isolated and withdrawn.

Since his surgery, he’s worked as a case finder, persuading blind people to come for treatment.

Do you have any advice about following through with ideas?

Start with ‘Why?’ A lot of people get stuck in ‘How?’ If you have a vision, you know why it’s important.

Align yourself with people who believe the same thing and, together, define the ‘how’. Don’t worry about messing up because you almost certainly will.

Be ready to learn when you get it wrong.