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Volume 11 • Issue 3 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker
INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn
GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES media@media-inc.com
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Randall Bonner, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Brian Kelly, Daniel A. Ritz SALES MANAGER Paul Yarnold ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith DESIGNER Lesley-Anne Slisko-Cooper PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker, Malena Kennedy WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines, Jon Eske ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Aumann
MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP 14240 Interurban Ave South • Suite 190 Tukwila, WA 98168 (206) 382-9220 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com ON THE COVER Brian Kelly found that it doesn’t take long to find some spectacular salmon fishing in Alaska. Anglers like Kelly can land at Anchorage’s Ted Stevens International Airport and catch coho within a short drive of the state’s largest city. (BRIAN KELLY)
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CONTENTS
VOLUME 11 • ISSUE 3
SALMON, SCHMALMON Let’s face it: Alaska is Chinook, coho, sockeye, pink and chum country. But Daniel Ritz came north from Idaho for a different adventure: to catch the state’s six native trout and char species, including Arctic grayling, as well as immerse himself in the Last Frontier’s trout fishing scene. He shares his trek from the Panhandle to the Kenai Peninsula and beyond.
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(GABY MORDINI)
FEATURES 16
‘CUSTOM’ HALIBUT JIGGING TIPS
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DESTINATION, AN-COHO-RAGE
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When Randall Bonner joined friends Tony “Famous” Davis and Kristin Dunn of Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle and charter boat skipper Ty Wyatt for a halibut trip out on Yakutat Bay – one of Alaska’s most productive flattie waters – he not only got a pretty good tutorial on using Davis’s jigs, but a great lesson on boat control from the captain. Bonner shares what he learned about fishing for and hauling up barndoors – even trophy ling – from these experts. Where can you go from baggage claim to bag limits in a matter of hours? Fly in to Anchorage’s Ted Stevens International Airport and you can enjoy some epic late-summer silver salmon fishing. Brian Kelly details the action in and around Alaska’s largest city, where urban and rural fisheries are within a short driving distance of downtown. ALSO IN THIS ISSUE ALASKA HUNTING PREP, PART II: Q&A Last month, our pal Paul Atkins broke down the Last Frontier’s 10 big game species. In part two of his Alaska hunting planner checklist, he answers your questions on everything from obtaining tags to what gear to gather, even what kind of shape to be in for what could be the most spectacular outdoor adventure of your life.
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The Editor’s Note Outdoor calendar From Field to Fire: Why to heed the (bigger) bead
Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $49.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 14240 Interurban Ave South, Suite 190, Tukwila, WA 98168 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2021 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 10
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EDITOR’S NOTE
KENAI PENINSULA
A
s a quick fishing excursion beckoned during a visit to California to hang with my family, I wanted to try something new. Usually when I fish urban lakes near where I grew up – just outside San Francisco – I keep it simple: a sliding sinker trout rig, some PowerBait or nightcrawlers, cast out, sit in my folding chair with a magazine or book and wait for a bite. But this time, as a summer heatwave promised temperatures climbing into the 90s by midmorning, I knew the trout likely weren’t going to be biting in the lakes I’m used to fishing. So, I found a new spot I’d never hit before – Stafford Lake Park, located in the community of Novato and 20 miles or so past the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. There are no trout in the lake, plus no boats allowed. But there are plenty of catchable bass and catfish for shore One of the editor’s summer fishing fishing warriors. Since excursions yielded only strands of weeds and no bass, but it felt good to I’ve rarely gone bass be outside on a warm and peaceful fishing on my own, I morning. (CHARLENE KING) figured this was a perfect opportunity to see what I could do. Armed with newly purchased crankbaits and topwater lures from a local sporting goods store, my sister Charlene and I headed north early on a July Saturday morning. As it goes around San Francisco, we were greeted with chilly fog crossing the Golden Gate but then bright sunshine and hotter conditions almost instantly once we were clear of the bridge. I wasn’t super confident I’d catch any bass, but just excited to be fishing. There’s just something peaceful about having almost an entire lake to yourself (I spied about five other anglers at various times throughout the morning). And as our August issue celebrates catching Alaska’s biggest and baddest fish – see correspondent Randall Bonner’s halibut jigging piece (page 16) – on this day I was content to quietly cast my lures in the blazing morning sun hoping for one bucketmouth to devour my crankbait. Unfortunately, the best moment of the morning for us was driving into the park and encountering about six deer scampering across the road. Fishing was a bust, as all that my baits hooked was the plentiful weeds during retrieves. After a couple hours of walking up and down the shoreline the hot sun finally chased us back home. There will be other days and other fish to catch. It just felt good to soak up the sun. Let’s get out this August and do the same. -Chris Cocoles
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YOUR MUST-STOP BEFORE HUNTING & FISHING ON PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND, ALASKA KNOWLEDGEABLE STAFF WILL LET YOU KNOW WHERE, WHEN AND HOW!
OUTDOOR CALENDAR*
Mountain goat hunting seasons open early this month in portions of Southeast Alaska. (JOSH BLOUIN/USFWS)
Aug. 1 Deer season opens throughout Game Management Unit 1 (Southeast Mainland) Aug. 1 Deer season opens in GMU 2 (Prince of Wales Island) Aug. 1 Deer season opens in GMU 3 (Petersburg/Wrangell) Aug. 1 Deer season opens in GMU 4 (Admiralty/Chichagof/Baranof Island) Aug. 1 Goat season opens in GMU 4 (Baranof Island) Aug. 1 Goat season in GMU 5 (Yakutat) Aug. 1 Caribou season opens in GMU 8 (Kodiak) Aug. 13-15 Golden North Salmon Derby, Juneau (goldennorthsalmonderby.com)
Aug. 13-Sept. 5 Valdez Tagged Fish Contest (valdezfishderbies.com/tagged-fish-contest) Aug. 14 Valdez Women’s Silver Salmon Derby (valdezfishderbies.com/womens-derby) Aug. 14-22 Seward Silver Salmon Derby (salmon.seward.com) Aug. 18-20 Ted Stevens Kenai River Classic, Soldotna (krsa.com/events/ted-stevens-kenai-river-classic) Aug. 20 Goat season opens in portion of GMU 8 Note: COVID-19 restrictions were easing at press time, but always confirm events before attending.
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‘CUSTOM’ HALIBU JIGGING TIPS TACKLE MAKER, CHARTER SKIPPER TALK FISHING FOR FLATTIES WITH YAKUTAT-BASED WRITER BY RANDALL BONNER
T
ony “Famous” Davis came to Yakutat to fish his jigs in one of Alaska’s premier halibut fisheries. While Dutch Harbor takes the cake for the biggest averages, Yakutat Bay is a close second. And although there are few things that fish better than bait, between Tony’s confidence in his own creations and Capt. Ty Wyatt’s experience as a local charter skipper, I felt assured that we would be loading the boat with plenty of fish. As we exited the harbor, the overcast weather, mild swells and lack of wind were adding up to generate "comfortable" fishing conditions, but didn’t necessarily create the best environment for catching fish. That involves an alignment of tides, currents and wind to create an equation that develops a drift and covers water, rather than just dropping straight down and trying to jig vertically.
ON THIS PARTICULAR DAY in mid-May, we were fishing in roughly 250 feet of water. Our 14-ounce jigs were efficient at reaching bottom quickly, but Tony’s 5- and 10-ounce jigs would have done just as well. Minimal movement factoring into the drift can be challenging for a charter captain. “For an ideal drift, wind, tide and current all move one direction,” says Wyatt. “Opposing elements in that equation can sometimes cause problems, but an opposing tide and current can offset and cancel each other out.” Wyatt also prefers to fish as shallow as
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BUT
Yakutat Bay offers some of Alaska’s most epic halibut fishing, and as author Randall Bonner discovered, barndoor beauties couldn’t resist the jigs or jigging techniques he and his friends were using.
(RANDALL BONNER/KODIAK CUSTOM LURES)
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Many Alaskans say Yakutat Bay only trails famed Dutch Harbor as one of the state’s best fisheries for halibut. (RANDALL BONNER)
possible and in areas that are less snaggy, and he avoids rocky bottoms. Without a drift creating a scent trail, you’ll need visual attractors such as the contrast of black jigs with white skirts, multi-colored skirts or even the addition of flashing lights. Baits and scents are more relevant to fish holding on to a bait rather than finding it. “The addition of bait often affects the action,” says Wyatt. “The bait needs to be as unobtrusive as possible.” Davis, who is the owner of Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle (907-486-1974; kodiakcustom.com), demonstrated how to filet a herring and thread it onto the doublehook setup on his jigs so that it will undulate with the skirt without inhibiting the action of the jig. Wrapping bait onto the lead portion of Kodiak Custom’s jigs is a little more timeconsuming and requires some effort, but is another effective method of drawing strikes during a slow bite and won’t interfere with the action of the jig’s skirt. Wyatt adds that wrapping a bait like a herring filet with the scales out can improve the visual profile of the jig by adding flash and not just scent to the presentation.
IF CREATING THE PROPER jigging action is
As local charter boat skipper Ty Wyatt explained, the parabolic action of the rods he fishes with allows “the tip to react with the jigging motion rather than trying to get action from a broomstick,” Bonner writes.
(KODIAK CUSTOM LURES)
Tony Davis’s double-hooked Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle jigs worked brilliantly on this day. They allow you to rig a herring fillet so that it undulates with the lure’s skirt.
(RANDALL BONNER)
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an artform, then the style of fishing is the medium. If fishing on anchor, the creation of a scent trail and placement of multiple presentations in a spread is vital. Avoid drifting under the boat and place lighter jigs between heavier bait rods. This will allow the visual aspects of the jigs to come into play while they’re fishing inside the scent trails of the bait. On this day, we were drifting at about 1 knot. First and foremost, there’s a method to the madness of making your initial drop before you even begin to start jigging. Capt. Wyatt explains that one of the most integral pieces of the puzzle to his jigging program is to “Anticipate bottom – slow the drop when you’re nearing the lower end of the water column and beginning to reach the fish, because they’re there and they’re waiting on your jig,” he says. Wyatt went on to explain that part of being in a prepared position involves pointing the rod tip down to the water during your drop, allowing you to be able to lift and swing, rather than giving yourself a handicap by fishing parallel to the water’s surface.
Dropping is also much different than casting, and the positioning for casting is not nearly as efficient as holding the rod and creating a fulcrum jigging action with one hand near the reel, and the other pushing down on the butt end of the rod to lift the tip. Point the tip at the water’s surface and try not to jig above your waist, rather than starting at your waist and jigging with the rod tip up in the air. This will give you twice the range of movement to recover slack during a deep-water hookset. Proper cadence is vital for maintaining the interest of fish. Davis explains that proper jigging action with his products can create a plug-like action during a drift.
Wyatt explains the cadence as jigging continuously five to 20 times, with a fiveto 30-second pause between sets, and then continuing with random variation. “Think of your jigging cadence as playing a musical instrument,” says Wyatt. “You don’t play one note and stop, but you might play a series of chords, then pause just before the chorus.” While the ocean was calm that day, waves do create “free jigging action,” and a rod can simply be left in a holder with the presentation just off the bottom, but it needs to be supervised. Pounding bottom is really only effective if the ocean floor is more level and
consists of a soft, forgiving substrate without snags. Dragging bottom, particularly in an area with constantly changing depths, will result in snags.
WYATT STAYS ON TOP of equipment
technology. He uses Shimano Talica 16II two-speed reels engineered with high and low gears so powerful that they allow an angler to tow a fish to the surface rather than the standard charter boat “pump-and-reel” technique. Wyatt explains that fighting fish that big at such depths only aggravates the fish on their journey to the surface, which prolongs the fight. Advanced technology makes
“Think of your jigging cadence as playing a musical instrument,” tips Wyatt. “You don’t play one note and stop, but you might play a series of chords, then pause just before the chorus.” (RANDALL BONNER)
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it more efficient to winch the fish up by reeling steadily. He also explained that his Trevala PX rods have a more parabolic action, allowing the tip to react with the jigging motion rather than trying to get action from a broomstick. He suggests sticking with matching the weight rating of the lure to the rod to maximize that action as well.
AS MUCH AS I would love to expand upon
the story of our day on the water and give the play by play of each and every fish we caught, the action was fast-paced and we were done fairly quickly. More accurately, we were ready to throw in the towel because we were so exhausted from reeling up fish that we couldn’t keep up. More than once, one of us said, “After this fish, I’m taking a break.” That’s when Wyatt would grab a rod, drop down a jig and usually have a fish on before any of us could make it into the cabin and avoid a handoff. It was almost a sinister game by the captain to keep us all engaged and catch our limit before we reached our physical limitations. The bite sometimes dies as quickly as it happens, so Wyatt describes timing the bite as a race, and in essence that race is often a sprint, rather than a marathon. ASJ
“The action was fast-paced and we were done fairly quickly,” writes Bonner (right, with Kristin Dunn). “More accurately, we were ready to throw in the towel because we were so exhausted from reeling up fish that we couldn’t keep up.” (KODIAK CUSTOM LURES)
The gang – Davis, Dunn and Wyatt – also managed to bring up a hefty lingcod on this great day of fishing. (RANDALL BONNER) 22
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DESTINATION, AN-COHO-RAGE ‘IT DOESN’T TAKE LONG TO GO FROM BAGGAGE CLAIM TO FISH ON’ WHEN IT COMES TO COHO FISHING NEAR TED STEVENS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
BY BRIAN KELLY
A
t least for now as I write this, there are no COVID-related restrictions for travelling to the great state of Alaska! This means it’s time to book a flight and get in on the season’s remaining salmon action, which is often my favorite scene. This is the silver run! Whether you have a week available or just a long weekend, there are plenty of options to score limits of fresh silvers around Anchorage itself, or by taking a short drive up to the Mat-Su Valley.
NO GEAR, NO PROBLEM Ship Creek is a great first stop on a silver salmon tour of Anchorage. Located just 6½ miles north of Ted Stevens International Airport, it doesn’t take long to go from baggage claim to fish on! With an average annual plant of over 250,000 coho smolts from the William Jack Hernandez Sport Fishery Hatchery – conveniently located on the banks of Ship Creek – there are plenty of silvers to be had at this fish factory. Silvers tend to make their first appearance around the end of July, with the heart of the run coming in waves through the first two weeks in August. The beauty of this scene is that all you need to show up with is, well, you! The
Alaska’s largest city is typically Alaskan in that anglers don’t have to cast far from Anchorage’s city limits to hook into some excellent salmon fishing. Author Brian Kelly caught this fat silver in Ship Creek, only an hour after landing at Ted Stevens International Airport. (BRIAN KELLY)
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Bait Shack (baitshack.com) is the only stop a travelling angler will need to make, as owner Dustin Slinker has everything to set you up for success. Since 2011, Dustin has put the Shack on the salmon fishing map. His shop has everything you’ll need for a day on the water. Equipment rentals are available, so no worries if you didn’t want to pack your own gear. The Bait Shack offers rods and reels, waders, tackle and nets, plus the all-important lowdown on where to target incoming silver salmon. Not only will Dustin set you up for success, but he even offers fillet and vacuum-packing services so that your prized catch of silvers can be ready for the trip home and a trip to the grill! A word to the wise for Ship Creek anglers: Fish early in the day, especially on an incoming tide. The crowds can get heavy on weekend days, so do yourself a favor and set that alarm for an early
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
C
ar rentals have become an issue in the challenging new world of COVID-19. If the usual rentals at the Anchorage airport aren’t proving fruitful, then try the locally owned and operated Midnight Sun Car and Van Rental (907-243-8806; ineedacarrental.com). A short cab ride from the airport will get you to their facility and they will shuttle you back to the airport upon rental return. Looking for a guide in the Mat-Su Valley? There are plenty of options, but two of the best in my opinion are Fishtale River Guides (907-746-2199, fish4salmon.com) and Fisherman’s Choice Charters (907-892-8707, akfishermanschoice.com). Depending on the run timing, these seasoned guides can run anglers on their fully furnished jet sleds to the bite on the Little Su, Deshka and Talkeetna Rivers. Be sure to watch the fish counts and emergency orders on the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s website (adfg.alaska.gov) for the Mat-Su streams. This info will save you from making the run north if the runs aren’t happening and will allow you to focus on the hatchery scenes around the Anchorage area. BK
wakeup. The early-bird angler often gets limits on the Ship!
GOT TIME? GO NORTH! Looking for a little more adventure on
Jim Stepulkoski with a bright silver from the Eklutna Tailrace, located just a short drive from Anchorage in the Mat-Su Valley. (BRIAN KELLY)
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your visit to Anchorage? Then jump on Highway AK-1 and point north towards the Mat-Su Valley. The Eklutna Tailrace is managed as another hatchery-run fishery. It has an average plant of over
The mouth Joining his brother of Montana on the Creek family’s in setnet the Mat-Su boat,Valley Chaney offers understands anglers a how critical of variety thesalmon Bristolspecies Bay ecosystem to catch, is to his family’s including bonuslivelihood. chums like “Everything this one. revolves around fish here,” he says. (BRIAN KELLY) (TRISTON CHANEY)
125,000 coho smolts. This tailwater scene offers shorebound anglers access from the power dam to the outflow at the Knik River. And there are trails on both sides of the outflow and a walking bridge to connect them. There is plenty of room to find an eager silver. While most of the fishing pressure tends to focus on the outflow, a hike up the trails can provide ample elbow room. Just look for “rollers” – silvers showing themselves as they migrate upstream. If you’ve rented gear from the Bait Shack, then be sure to deploy a hunk of Dustin’s home-cured “Creek Candy” under a float when you find a school of salmon. 28
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It’s amazing how well this stuff works! Since the Eklutna Tailrace has a managed flow from the power station, it tends to remain fishable when local streams blow out due to summer rainstorms. The consistent flow allows for a number of presentations that can prove successful – depending, of course, on whether the silvers are in the mood! While eggs tend to be the go-to bait for local pros, spinners such as ones made by Vibrax, Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle and Arctic Spinners all work well at the tailrace, as do plugs and twitched hair jigs.
WILD RIVERS, WILD FISH Keep heading north and you’ll escape
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the Anchorage traffic and start to get a taste of rural Alaska. While the town of Wasilla has most of the same amenities as Anchorage, it offers a remote feeling once you escape the city limits. The Little Susitna River is approximately 30 miles southwest of town, which is not a long distance on the map but you’ll feel like you’re in another world once you pull into the Burma Landing access at the Little Susitna Public Use Facility. Managed by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, this pay-to-play access has a boat ramp, primitive campground and “rugged” hiking trails along the river. I first set foot on this stream back in
“It doesn’t take long to go from baggage claim to fish on!” Kelly writes. “Whether you have a week available or just a long weekend, there are plenty of options to score limits of fresh silvers around Anchorage.”
(BRIAN KELLY)
The Little Susitna River is an easy trip for Anchorage-area residents and travelling anglers who want to quickly get in some on great fishing and gorgeous scenery. (BRIAN KELLY) 30
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2011 and immediately fell in love with the place. The abundant moose sightings, screeching eagles and bear scat tends to make a person smitten with such an environment. Well, so will the plump silvers that return to this gem of a stream. Unlike the watersheds to the south, the Little Su coho are all wild and managed with a close eye by ADFG – thanks to a temporary weir located north of the Burma Landing boat ramp. Bait restrictions are first on the list if the run is slow or lagging, followed by retention limits or even a full closure. I have seen it all on the Little Su – from a complete shutdown, relaxed limits, high water, low water and a cow moose that came barreling through the brush and had my heart racing. The aforementioned rugged trails are just that. They border on bushwhacking skills needed, so they aren’t for the faint of heart. But the effort is worth it because as the Little Su snakes its way to Cook Inlet, it creates holes, runs and undercut banks that silvers love to hold in as they take
breathers on their upstream migration. This is truly some of the best silver water I have ever experienced. This strain of salmon tends to be more curious than most and they will literally chase your presentation to the rod tip – or ignore your eggs and try to eat your float instead! If you keep heading north on Highway 3, you’ll come across many more watersheds that are easily accessed on foot. Willow, Sheep and Montana Creeks are all tributaries to the Susitna River, with parking and trail access to the mouths of these streams. While each gets its own run of silvers, they also tend to draw in schools of Su salmon since the clean water from the creeks offers a break from the river’s glacial silt. All the usual silver offerings tend to work in these locales; just be sure to check the ADFG site for bait restrictions. The time has come to get back out and explore what Alaska has to offer. Whether it’s a quick trip to the city or a longer journey to the valley, the silvers are coming. And the pandemic be damned. Be safe and catch fish! ASJ
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Stepulkoski admires his Little Su prize. Getting to some of the river’s best fishing spots requires some bushwhacking, but the rewards can be well worth it. (BRIAN KELLY)
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WASHINGTON PASCO Northwest Marine and Sport 2250 Commercial Ave. (509) 545-5586 www.nwmarineandsport.com
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FIELD
The mix of 32mm BnR Tackle Soft Beads that impressed author Scott Haugen while coho fishing last summer in Alaska. Big beads resemble a cluster of cured eggs, and salmon love ’em! (SCOTT HAUGEN)
HEED THE (BIGGER) BEAD HOW AN ANGLER’S DECISION TO FISH LARGER, EGG CLUSTER IMITATIONS SLAMMED SILVERS BY SCOTT HAUGEN
A
fter not touching a salmon in six casts I changed gear. Then I landed five coho in seven casts – all from the same spot. That was on the Egegik River a year ago this month – where I’m likely fishing while you read this article.
I’d switched to BnR Tackle’s new 32mm beads, and over the next six weeks I stuck with those beads, fishing them many ways and in a range of water types in Southwest Alaska. Learning to fish big beads and the continued success they brought made it the highlight of my season.
WHEN ANGLERS SEE A big bead for the first time, one of two reactions occur. Either they laugh and dismiss it as a novelty, or a lightbulb look sweeps over them. Those who had that lightbulb moment were seasoned anglers. They instantly made the connection that the
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FIELD
Few sandwiches are as ubiquitous and beloved as the classic BLT, but consider the flavor burst from adding a fish fillet to complement the bacon, lettuce and tomato base. (TIFFANY HAUGEN)
MAKE YOUR B.L.T. FISHY BY TIFFANY HAUGEN
L
ast year when we lived in Hyder, Alaska, we caught some dandy coho in the river flowing near our home. We also got some nice kings in the bay. Because we wanted something
different, one evening I cooked up a white salmon on a BLT. The whole family loved it, and it wasn’t the last time we had salmon prepared this way. The classic BLT has held a spot in the sandwich world for decades. Simple, yet perfectly salty, sweet and crisp, the three main ingredients are easy to come by and can be prepared in minutes. At restaurants, you’ll often see this popular sandwich offered with a twist. So, feel free to add avocado, caramelized onion or a smear of pesto to go with the bacon, lettuce and tomato base (plus the fish, of course). Besides salmon, any lightly seasoned fish fillet will add flavor and texture to a traditional BLT. This is just one we fell in love with last year, and we’re sure many of you will like it too. One 6-ounce fish fillet Two slices bread One to two slices bacon Two lettuce leaves Two to four tomato slices
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1 tablespoon mayonnaise Salt, granulated garlic and onion Fresh lemon juice Fry bacon until crisp. Remove skin and any bones from fish fillet. Lightly season with salt, granulated onion, garlic and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Cook as desired by poaching, baking or pan-frying in butter/olive oil. Keep warm while preparing other sandwich ingredients. Slice tomato and lettuce (leaves can be whole or chopped). Toast bread and slather with mayonnaise. Assemble the sandwich and serve immediately. Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany’s popular book, Cooking Seafood, and other best-selling titles, visit tiffanyhaugen.com.
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FIELD 32mm bead equates to a cured cluster of eggs. The folks who struggled with the concept of a giant bead kept wanting to compare it with a single bead – like those used for trout. “A lot of Alaska anglers like the big bead because they’re going to catch and release fish all day long,” notes Brandon Wedam, product engineer behind BnR Tackle’s Soft Beads. “I like the 32mm beads because fish don’t get hooked as deep, so mortality is low.” Some of the coho takes I experienced were surprisingly aggressive, with the big bead being totally invisible inside the salmon’s mouth when they came in. But often the bite was subtle, as you’d expect. Drift fishing the big bead with only a couple split-shots above it became the top-producing presentation style. This “Learning to fish big beads and the continued success they brought made it the highlight of my season,” writes Haugen, here with a daily limit of Egegik River silvers. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
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Pegged above the hook, a large BnR Tackle T-stop did a great job of keeping this 32mm Soft Bead in place. The large bell also prevented beads from slipping over the stop. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
rigging optimizes the neutral buoyant features of the Soft Beads, and the coho can’t resist it. The bead, itself, is heavy enough to cast a long way, making extended water easy to reach. It can also be fished beneath a float. A buddy took to the 32mm bead right away, landing 53 coho on a mottled pink bead before having to replace it late in the afternoon. Another friend caught his five keepers every day on eggs, then fished beads the rest of the time, which ensured a clean release. “I’ll tell you one thing,” shared my enthusiastic friend who caught and released 32 coho on the big bead the first morning he fished it, “it greatly increased my fishing time. I didn’t have to keep rebaiting with messy eggs, washing my hands, rod and reel. And I could unhook and release fish much faster. I’m ordering some of these when I get home.” He did, as did many others who tried them. AS FOR BIG BEAD colors, sweet pink cherry was the top producer, followed
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by mottled pink and mottled cerise. Mottled natural and pearl pink also did very well. If fishing coho anywhere in Alaska this summer and fall, the 32mm Soft Bead is worth giving a serious try. The effectiveness of these beads to produce in a range of conditions impressed me, and I’ve seen a lot in over 50 years of salmon fishing. The only place I heard of the big beads not working in Alaska was in very clear, dead, holding water, where coho stack up for long periods. While you’re at it, grab a few of the new 40mm beads, what I’m likely fishing right now somewhere in Alaska. I can already hear the reactions when folks see the monster beads on my rod. “What in the world are you thinking?” will be one retort. Another will be something like, “That’s ingenious; give me one of those!” Stay tuned next year for the details. ASJ Editor’s note: To book your Alaskan fishing adventure, visit scotthaugen.com, where you can also get signed copies of his many books. Follow Scott on Instagram and Facebook.
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Author Daniel Ritz went on a one-month voyage of discovery around Alaska in pursuit of the state‘s six native species of trout and char, including wild rainbows, which don‘t let you forget for a second just how wild they are. Ritz had to extract this one from beneath its log-jam home near Talkeetna. (DANIEL A. RITZ) 40
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ON A TREK FOR TROUT
SALMON, SCHMALMON – ANGLER TRIES TO LAND ALASKA’S 6 NATIVE TROUT, CHAR IN A MONTH BY DANIEL A. RITZ
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arlier this year, I came to Alaska with the sincere goal of returning home to Idaho with something remotely close to a comprehensive – or at least a range of – understanding of a true Alaskan experience. Considering the expanse of the state’s geography and the historically complex nature of the fishing culture, I knew that was a tall order. Bottoms up.
I WAS PLANNING TO spend nearly one month in Alaska – Memorial Day until near the end of June – as one of the first legs of a nearly five-month trip across the American West’s 12 states. Overall, I was in pursuit of the 20 native trout and char species recognized by the Western Native Trout Initiative’s Western Native Trout Challenge (westernnativetrout.org). While one month doesn’t seem like all that long, it was admittedly more time than I needed simply for fishing. I wanted to travel by foot. I wanted to camp out of doors or with new friends. I wanted to be engaged with Alaska and not just check the bucket list box as easily and efficiently as possible. As I traveled from the southeast to Fairbanks and then through Southcentral Alaska to the Kenai Peninsula in an attempt to form very literal connections with each of the six native trout and char species of Alaska – coastal cutthroat trout, Dolly Varden, Arctic grayling, Alaskan lake trout, Alaskan rainbow trout and Arctic char – I began to notice something. More specifically, I began to notice the lack of something when talking to folks about my current project. DURING MY TIME IN Alaska, when someone referred to “trout fishing,” they focused aksportingjournal.com | AUGUST 2021
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At ice-off, Alaska lake trout lurk below the retreating ice line and prey on small baitfish, offering a novel fly fishing experience for the freshwater char. (OLIVER ANCANS)
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almost exclusively on the large Alaskan rainbow trout near Bristol Bay, or the fish that seasonally follow salmon through popular fisheries such as the Kenai or Susitna River systems in order to feast on their eggs. There were a variety of seasoned anglers that I obviously caught off-guard when I told them that I was actually seeking out, for example, Arctic grayling or coastal cutthroat trout. “There are six native species of trout in Alaska?” was a common response. In early May, while researching and preparing for my upcoming trip, I spoke by phone with Eric Booton, sportsmen engagement organizer for Trout Unlimited Alaska. When I asked him about the prominence of the various native trout and char species within the focus of the Alaska sportfishing community, I was taken back by his simple yet profound answer. “A lot of people in Alaska are fishing 42
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for trout, sure, but salmon are far and away the prominent and most engaged sportfishing species,” Booton told me. That part wasn’t necessarily surprising. Many would confirm and I would personally agree with that assessment – deservedly so. The way of the salmon is the way of the trout. It was the beautifully simple reason why I wasn’t able to get it off my mind. “In Alaska, unlike the Lower 48 where there is all this attention on native species – namely trout – I don’t think native trout species get as much attention because they aren’t necessarily in trouble. I have a feeling that we aren’t focused on them as much as we could be because we don’t really have to be,” Booton stated. With a laugh, he said he regularly gets asked why his group isn’t called “Salmon Unlimited Alaska.” A 2015 Trout Unlimited report notes
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that three of the United States’ – including the Lower 48 and Alaska – 28 native trout species and subspecies have already gone extinct. Furthermore, 13 of the 25 remaining species inhabit a quarter of their original range. Thankfully, none of those extinct species or native trout now surviving within radically reduced habitat are Alaskan native fish.
ROUGHLY HALFWAY THROUGH MY time in Alaska, I actually met up with Booton in order to pursue, of all things, Alaskan rainbow trout. To my surprise, throughout our marathon 14-hour fishing day, it was fulfilling to learn the tactics of effective mousing from the Energizer bunny-like Booton. There were tales of fly fishing for Alaskan lake trout in a snowstorm during ice-off on a lake deep in the Alaska Range. I filled him in on my plans to pursue elusive and genetically pure Arctic char in
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“Each of these trout species took me to new landscapes, literally forced me to engage with new communities and often learn a totally new cache of fishing tactics,” the author writes of his pursuit of Dolly Varden (left), lake trout (bottom middle) and other natives everywhere from the Panhandle to the Kenai Peninsula (this image), where Arctic char played hard to get in the Swanson River and Swan Lake Canoe Routes. (GABY MORDINI AND DANIEL A. RITZ)
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Trophy Arctic grayling await those willing to wade the frigid but pristine waters of Susitna River tributaries. “Most of all, my experiences pursuing these six species provided a bit of historical and biologically cohesive narrative to the complex systems of Alaskan fisheries,” Ritz writes. (GABY MORDINI)
the Swanson River and Swan Lake canoe routes of the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge. “I really want to get down/up/over here and do that,” Booton would say. When he did, each time I would find myself feeling grateful for this crash course in Alaskan context. Seeing him so excited for what was, even to him, a novel experience was incredibly invigorating.
EACH OF THESE TROUT species took me to new landscapes, literally forced me to engage with new communities and often learn a totally new cache of fishing 46
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tactics. Most of all, my experiences pursuing these six species provided a bit of historical and biologically cohesive narrative to the complex systems of Alaskan fisheries. In order to know a thing, as they say, you have to walk a mile in its shoes. Well, fish don’t wear shoes, but I covered many miles in Alaska’s rivers. Whether Alaska is the true Last Frontier or not can be debated, but it certainly was the closest damn thing this hatch-matching, dry-fly ballerina and Rocky Mountain mainlander has seen to a healthy fisheries ecosystem.
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I suppose it boils down to, maybe the next time someone tells you they’re “goin’ trout fishin,’” ask them what kind? It might just lead to a good story about an often forgotten species that, like a wellbehaved child, doesn’t get the attention it deserves because it isn’t a problem. ASJ Editor’s note: You can read all of Daniel Ritz’s #WesternTroutChallenge stories on Trout Unlimited’s magazine website. Go to tu.org/magazine/author/daniel-ritz/ for more. As of press time, Ritz has successfully caught 14 of the available 18 native trout species of the American West.
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ALASKA HUNT PREP, PART II: Q&A FOLLOWING ON LAST ISSUE’S RUNDOWN OF BIG GAME SPECIES, OUR EXPERT DETAILS CRITICAL TAG, PLANNING, TRANSPORTATION, GEAR NEEDS BY PAUL D. ATKINS
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ast month, we broke down the myriad game species that Alaska offers sportsmen and -women. This issue we’ll answer typical questions you might have as you prepare for the adventure of a lifetime.
SO, WHAT HAPPENS NOW? Depending on the species you plan to pursue in Alaska, you will first have to decide where to go. Many tags can be bought over the counter, while others are won via a draw. For example, caribou permits can be bought online or at the point of origin, but it depends greatly on where you plan to hunt. Also, in some units you can take more than one bull, while others only allow one. On the other hand, getting a moose tag has become much harder compared to just a few years ago. For the most part they are draw-only for nonresidents, meaning you’ll have to apply during the application period, which begins in November. Times have changed and so do the number of animals in a particular unit, so the particulars of where and when to go become very important. Moose numbers are drastically down across the state and if nothing else, have become a 48
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Author Paul Atkins is back in the Lower 48 after living in Arctic Alaska for years. But as a veteran Last Frontier hunter, he knows how to prepare for the arduous but exciting adventures to be had here. (PAUL D. ATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | AUGUST 2021
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For nonresidents and, in some instances, residents, applying for tags and hoping to draw a permit is a fact of life. Applications are available November 1 and need to be filled out and returned by the middle of December. Though Atkins is doing it the old-fashioned way here, these days it’s all done online and it’s much easier. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
very valuable commodity. However, caribou and moose hunts can be done without a guide and if you’re looking for a cheaper hunt, then a do-ityourself drop camp is the way to go. But if sheep and bear are your quarry, then you must not only draw a tag but also hire a guide. This can get quite expensive, but it’s well worth it if planning a dream hunt in the Last Frontier. First and foremost, you should contact the Alaska Department of Fish and Game (adfg.alaska.gov) and ask about the area, animal populations and bag limits. Local biologists constantly survey the country and know exactly what the animals do – not only numbers but they also track migration patterns. Secondly, check out record books to see where the big bulls are coming from or if you can contact people who have hunted in a particular area before. This kind of information is invaluable when it comes to the logistics of the hunt, as well as helps a 50
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first-timer know what to expect.
DO I HUNT ON PUBLIC OR PRIVATE LAND? Most areas in Alaska are open to public hunting, while some others belong to Native corporations. Be sure to know where you can hunt and also if there might be a trespass fee. Some native land managers charge a fee to hunt; others only require you to get a permit. There’s also federal land, but that is under the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which has its own restrictions. Many of those areas are strictly for local residents. There is also National Park Service land, but it too is usually for subsistence hunters. Be sure and check all the regulations.
WHAT KIND OF INTEL CAN I GET PRIOR TO A HUNT? Unlike the Lower 48, scouting will be out of the question, so ask a lot of questions and research the area long before you
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go. Once you’re dropped off in an area, you’ll be left with nothing but what you’ve learned through your questionand-answer sessions. By gaining as much knowledge as possible, you will be better prepared and probably a lot more successful too.
HOW DO I TRAVEL TO MY HUNTING GROUNDS?
You will have to get here somehow. For most of Alaska it’s either by boat or by plane. You can’t drive to most of the really good places, even if we wish we could. If your plans include hunting by boat, then you will either need to know somebody locally or hire someone who specializes in that area. Most boat hunters usually cater to locals or those who live in the state. Boat hunting is fun, as it allows you to move to a variety of areas along the many rivers and lakes that cover pretty much the entire state. However, for most hunters, transportation by boat isn’t in the cards
and you’ll have to hire a transporter and go by air. Transporters are pilots who get you from point A to point B and are probably the most overlooked and expensive aspect of any Alaskan hunt. Once you’ve done the research and know the area you plan to hunt, then you will need to hire a transporter. You will need to do this long before your hunt starts, as most of the good pilots are booked years in advance. You shouldn’t take this lightly if you’re serious about hunting up here, so check as many references as possible. Remember, your life is in their hands from the moment you leave town until you return.
WHAT ARE THE MUST-HAVES FOR GEAR?
After you’ve chosen a species, picked your area or unit, decided your dates and hired a transporter, it’s time to select the proper gear to get it all done. You need to make sure that whatever gear you decide to bring works properly and is capable of getting the job done. Once out on the tundra or in the mountains, it will just be you and maybe a partner or two for a weeklong or 10-day hunt. If something breaks or doesn’t work,
then it will be pointless to have brought it along. And worse, such a malfunction could prevent you from taking that bull, bear or ram you’ve dreamed of. First, you need to think about the unpredictable weather and the proper attire to protect you from it. The conditions will vary depending where you are in the state, but the one thing you can count on is rain. It will rain, I promise! The key to staying dry and comfortable is making sure you have a set of highquality rain gear. I’ve found that anything with the word “Gore-Tex” on it works perfectly for the month of September. Getting wet on that first day will make for a miserable hunt – unless you can get things to “dry out,” which most times you can’t. My advice: Buy the best rain gear you can afford! You should also dress in layers. Fleece works best, as it dries out easily and quickly. Also pack four or five pairs of wool socks with cushioned soles. We all know how miserable wet socks can be. If you’re in waders all day, they will be soaked from sweating. After a hard day of hunting, change into a dry pair and hang the used socks in the tent or somewhere out of the
weather. Your hunting partner(s) may not like it, but you’ll be able to wear them again in a couple of days. There’s nothing better than putting on a dry pair of socks at the end of the day! Surrounding those socks with proper footgear may be the most important tool you bring along on an Alaskan hunt. Choosing the right boot is a top priority and should be taken seriously. Leather hunting boots work great when hunting deer and elk, but when things get wet and sloppy, as they tend to do in Alaska, you’ll wish you had something else. I recommend bringing hip waders, and even though they’re cumbersome and not the most comfortable to wear, you’ll be glad you have them for crossing rivers. I also recommend knee-high rubber boots – the insulated kind. Depending on the number of hunters in your camp you will need to think about your accommodations. Choosing wisely will help your comfort level. Most hunters who come to Alaska and do the unguided drop camp have to sleep in a tent. Some hunters like to sleep under nylon, while others absolutely hate it. If a tent is in your future, I again suggest
No matter what species you decide to hunt in Alaska or where you decide to go, you need to be able to get there. This depends on either having a really good friend with a boat or hiring a pilot to fly you to camp. Transportation should be one of the first decisions you make. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 52
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Practice is the key before any hunt, even more so if you’re a bowhunter, but rifle hunters should do the same. Knowing how your weapon works, where it will hit and understanding your effective range is the key to success. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
getting the best you can afford – one that can handle the weather and has plenty of room for your gear and people, but also doesn’t weigh a ton. There are a lot of great tents out there. Knives and game bags are also needed – especially if things turn out like you want them to. Good binoculars are also a big plus on any Alaskan hunt. Binos in the 10-power range work great. If you do have to buy a new pair, again, buy the best you can afford. The amount of glassing you do will make a good pair worth the purchase. Whether you’re trying to determine the antler configuration on a particular caribou bull or if the moose in the distance is legal or not, a good pair of binoculars is worth its weight in gold. I’ve also found that a good GPS and a satellite phone are critical in Alaska, especially if you need to contact someone for whatever reason. Beyond your rifle/bow and the aforementioned items, you’ll need to think about headlamps, matches and water filtration, plus many other necessities. Also, make sure you have 54
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a good sleeping bag and a comfortable sleeping pad. Carry dry bags to haul your gear in, a good Coleman stove with fuel, cooking utensils and a food list that works for everybody in camp. Whatever you choose for equipment, you need to be very familiar with it and make sure you know how each piece works.
WHAT ABOUT CAMP?
If you’re planning to do a DIY hunt with a group of people, then you’ll definitely need to think about your camping accommodations. Costs will be considerably cheaper with added company. If you’re like me, it’s always much more enjoyable with other hunters. There are many aspects to having a quality camp and all have to be considered. Shelter and food are two of the biggest concerns and must be addressed accordingly. If you are doing one of these types of hunts, then a tent will probably be your home for a week or so. Size and the number of tents you will need will depend solely on the number in your party, but you also have to consider weight. With
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Alaska’s ever-changing weather, tents should be, first and foremost, waterproof, strong and as lightweight as possible. The only thing worse than waking up in a wet sleeping bag in 3 inches of water is having to sleep in it for the next week. Wind is also a factor, especially on the open tundra, where a storm could roll in and pull your tent from its pegs. If this happens, you’ll find it and the rest of your gear strung out among the willows once you get back to camp. Believe me when I say it’s no fun at all! There are a ton of great tents out there, but investing in a high-quality waterproof one is well worth it, even if it does cost a lot of money. Personally, I bring along a second small tent for storing gear like bows, packs and extra clothes. This way they are out of the way and stay dry. Food is also an issue and has to be considered. Depending on group size, you’ll have to decide on what you plan to eat while in camp. The amount will be dictated by the number of hunters and their appetites for the week. Some guys and gals eat very little, while others want
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Having the right gear is crucial when you are miles from civilization, so plan accordingly rather than risk needing something you forgot or didn’t bother to pack. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
Finding a suitable place to camp is so important and often overlooked. While sometimes you have no choice, if you have options, take your time and choose wisely.
(PAUL D. ATKINS)
There’s nothing finer than having early morning coffee in moose country. Mid- to late September is the key time to hunt bulls, especially in the Arctic. You and your hunting partner have to be ready at a moment’s notice in case one of the big boys decides to step out.
(PAUL D. ATKINS)
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a full buffet every night. Some groups do well with dried foods, MREs and frozen premade dinners. If this isn’t an option, then most food can be bought at one of the local stores in the community you plan to leave from. But like all rural places in Alaska where the hunting is good, food will be expensive. If this is the case, then there isn’t really another choice for the do-it-yourselfer, so just spend the money and support the local economy. Coolers are a good choice for carrying food and also keeping it dry, cool and generally safe from bears.
IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD DO AT HOME BEFORE LEAVING FOR ALASKA?
Yes – practice and exercise! For most of us serious hunters, practice is pretty much a constant, whether it be with our bow or rifle. Long before you go trekking through the tundra, you need to make sure that you can effectively hit what you are shooting at. This comes with practice in a variety of situations. Knowing your “effective” range to be accurate is a must. Most shots on caribou, moose and even sheep will seldom be from a standing upright position. It has been my experience that you’re usually on your knees or sitting flat on the ground, and with the wind and rain blowing up your backside. You should practice from these positions as much as possible – and do so while wearing the same gear you will be hunting in. This means a full pack, rain gear and waders. This will give you a better feeling of what to expect when the moment of truth arrives. You also need to get fit ahead of time. Often as not, most of us are out of shape but still believe we can take on anything the great outdoors throws at us. The Alaskan wilderness, however – whether it’s the mountains or tundra – is unforgiving and not to be taken lightly. You’ll definitely need to be in shape to succeed. Take sheep hunting, which is about as tough as it gets. Even if you are in shape, it can be one of the most demanding adventures you’ll ever experience. On the other hand, it’s a little easier if your hunt plans include only caribou, but you still have to be able to navigate long distances through some
pretty rough country.
WHY THE LAST FRONTIER?
Whether it’s mountain goats, caribou or brown bears, many hunters dream of saving enough to take that big game hunt in Alaska. “It’s an epic adventure, creating memories that you’ll cherish forever,” the author writes. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
AUGUST 2021 | aksportingjournal.com
If an Alaskan hunt is in your future or even if you’re headed here as soon as this fall, now is the time to start planning. It’s an epic adventure, creating memories that you’ll cherish forever. The feel of the tundra, the smell of camp smoke and the long, hard stalk that produces the big bull that fills up your freezer and graces your wall – it can all be made possible due to good planning. Make yours today and enjoy a great hunt tomorrow! ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He’s had hundreds of articles published on big game hunting in Alaska and throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic. His new book Atkins’ Alaska is available on Amazon and everywhere good books are sold. It can also be ordered through his website, paulatkinsoutdoors.com. If you want an autographed copy, contact Paul at atkinsoutdoors@gmail.com. He is a regular contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal.
