CA BA RET
Fashion culture Miriam Daniela Aguilar Anaya Course and Level, year BA Fashion marketing & communication, Level 6, 2018-2019 6FAMK003C Visual Arts CWK1 Maya McCarthy Word Count: 5,738
Annex 1.Essay 2.Research book 3.Concept research 3.1 The film 3.1.1 Introduction 3.1.2 Cast 3.1.3 Synopsis 3.1.4 Poster analysis 3.1.5 The director 3.1.6 The location 3.1.7 Soundtrack 3.2 Film innovation 3.2.1 Decade analysis 3.2.1.1 Movies 3.2.1.2 Social movements 3.2.1.3 Fashion 3.2.1.4 Fashion icons 3.2.2 Values 3.2.3 Cabaret´s influence 3.3 Film Communication 3.3.1 Key elements 3.3.2 Film techniques 3.3.3 Film communication 3.4 Fashion communication 3.4.1 Costume designer 3.4.2 Character developement 4. Concept development 4.1 Contemporary evidence 4.1.1 Film references 4.1.2 Collaboraitve art 4.1.3 Contemporary influence 4.2 Key photographic images 5. Annex 6.Bibliography
essay
“Wh ere are your tro ubles no w?”
The year is 1931 and with the rise of the Nazi party in Germany, the people in the scene have a fatalistic energy that goes downhill during the film, the 1973 adaptation of Cabaret by Bob Fosse, shows a novel within a biography originating from Broadway where you see dancers of all characteristics taking part of a stage with chairs with the star of the show taking the “cult of distraction” in this was part of numerous clubs and bars in metropolitan cities mostly hosted by cabaret revues with chorus line dances, Liza Minelli taking on the role of Sally Bowles which may be an actual representation of what is a “weimar girl” which translates as the “new woman” taking on a liberalist background showing a sporting short bobbed hair and dancing all night at night-clubs in Berlin “selling her looks” which caught the attention of men looking for escapism.
“Divine decadence” may be the correct translation describing several characters in the film. The strongest example is the kit Kat Club where the sexual liberation and the atmosphere of the place leaving the “divine” generates a sense of sadness and tension that rises during the plot, as it leaves the viewer to discover the notion of what is going on behind the story knowing what is going to happen next, an important detail of this one, is that at the beginning and at the end of the film there is a mirror where Emcee starts singing but ends up reflecting the public in the club, showing a couple of Nazis, which indicates and gives us the notion of what is happening outside as well as a tribute to the circumstances of fascism and how the viewer can connect with this, as during the film we see how the influences contribute to this fact. The film demonstrates how Divine Decadence means about being fun and focused on your dreams
at all times being yourself breaking ideas and rules but would also expose in the film a lack of empathy, selfishness and being blinded from reality. Sally demonstrates this during the story when confronted with problems she says phrases like “Does it matter as long as you are having fun?” which shows her indifference to anti-Semitism in Germany and the problems of others. Even though it is a film from the 70s talking about the 30s, Sally Bowel’s divine decadence can be translated to the present day where open-mindedness and sex are still relevant themes, confronting the viewer about indifference and selfishness in the face of social problems that submerge, today’s society is still wondering if indifference has really declined thanks to the improved accessibility of information. Today the divine decadence is still present in society and has been romanticized. Using Cabaret literally in fashion editorials or unconsciously taking this concept of being rebellious, sexy and not caring about the rest even though we are more exposed to the changes and social problems of the day daily as well as the pressure on social networks to join the movements to not be canceled. A clear example is the Black lives matter movement that gained visibility in March 2020 mostly in the United States or the LGBT movement in August 2020 where almost a year later the lack of empathy and violence towards this communities is still shown thanks to the saturation of information as a consequence facilitates society quickly forgetting these movements. Another clear example is the Covid-19 pandemic where despite society being informed about it, making it known that they should be at home and not have
much contact with many people, some people did not care and went out partying with the philosophy of Sally “Does it matter as long as you are having fun?” “life is short”, this created a dilemma among young people between enjoying their youth and not wasting time, to protect themselves and others, what would Sally do? Social networking also became an escape from reality during the quarantine times like the Kit Kat Club where people would go to get happier and distract themselves from outside problems by seeing the perfect lives of people of influence as well as people they know. In the movie, people did something similar to Cabaret where they found an escape from the harsh reality that was happening in Europe. To conclude, an icon of what divine decadence is, is clearly the character of Sally Bowles, even though she does not describe the plot, she describes how society sometimes aspires to be like her and be happy in spite of the problems that will always open up. People should look in the mirror at the end of the film and not turn their backs on problems and seek a balance between their own “divine decadence” and empathy, kindness and wisdom among the circumstances they ignore at times to bring a new real change into this world.
References
AnOther. 2021. The Divine Decadence of Cabaret’s Sally Bowles. [online] Available at: <https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/9477/the-divine-decadence-of-cabarets-sally-bowles> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. CNN. 2021. ¿Qué es el movimiento Black Lives Matter y por qué se creó? | CNN. [online] Available at: <https://cnnespanol.cnn.com/2020/06/09/que-es-elmovimiento-black-lives-matter-y-por-que-se-creo/> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. Girls Do Film. 2021. ‘Divine decadence, darlings’. [online] Available at: <https:// girlsdofilm.wordpress.com/2011/09/07/divine-decadence-darlings/> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. The Daily Beast. 2021. Why ‘Cabaret’ Packs a Harsh Political Punch. [online] Available at: <https://www.thedailybeast.com/why-cabaret-packs-a-harsh-political-punch#:~:text=At%20its%20core%2C%20Cabaret%20is,in%20denial%20or%20self%2Dinterest.> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. Staging decadence. 2021. The Mythical Decadence of Weimar Cabaret — Staging decadence. [online] Available at: <https://www.stagingdecadence.com/blog/ the-mythical-decadence-of-weimar-cabaret> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. Thefilmexperience.net. 2021. Stage Door: Emma Stone in "Cabaret" - Blog The Film Experience. [online] Available at: <http://thefilmexperience.net/ blog/2014/11/25/stage-door-emma-stone-in-cabaret.html> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. Newlinetheatre.com. 2021. Inside CABARET by Scott Miller. [online] Available at: <http://www.newlinetheatre.com/cabaretchapter.html> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. Gradesaver.com. 2021. Cabaret (Film) Study Guide: Analysis. [online] Available at: <https://www.gradesaver.com/cabaret-film/study-guide/analysis> [Accessed 16 December 2021]. Block, G., 2021. Is life a cabaret? Cabaret and its sources in reality and the imagination. [online] Sound Ideas. Available at: <https://soundideas.pugetsound. edu/faculty_pubs/603/> [Accessed 16 December 2021].
Research book
Cabaret
Cabaret is an American musical movie from 1972 directed by Bob Fosse and with actors like Liza Minnelli, Michael York and Joel Grey as the main characters. Is an adaptation from the theater musical from 1966 with John Kander and Fred Ebb as composers who based their work on a novel called Christopher Isherwood “Goodbye Berlin” from 1939 and the play “I am America” from 1951. After the big failure of Bob Fosee from his movie “Sweet Charity” (1969), he got his comeback with Cabaret, a year after he was one of the most recognized directors in the cinema industry but also it was the first time Liza Minelli sang in a movie and she won an Oscar for best actress. There were a lot of good critics about this movie and ended up collecting $20 million dollars winning 8 oscars in total. In this project there will be discussed why and what impact it makes it today’s society.
Synopsis
Cambridge University student Brian Roberts arrives in Berlin in 1931 in order to complete his German studies but without much money, he starts to offer English classes for making a living while living in an cheap rooming house where he makes friends with another of the tenants, American Sally Bowles, a happy and outstanding person who works as a singer at the Kit Kat club, a cabaret. Sally sees Brian as a new possible new lover until she learns that he believes he is a celibate homosexual until they fall in love with each other. Among his other friends and students, there is Fritz Wendle who wants to get married and live a comfortable life and the beautiful jew Natalia Landauer, Frtiz initially wants her as she is rich but eventually he falls in love with her. However Natalia rejects him as she started facing the social problems as the Nazis are rising in Germany. Finally into Sally’s and Brian’s life comes the wealthy baron, Maximilian Von Heune, who has the same point of view as Sally about having an eccentric life, Max is willing to pay with gifts and favors for his new friends around a social disturbance which they pay little attention. Ultimately learn that life is good even when the bad continues around them and Brian leaves back to England.
France
Checoslovakia
Japan
United States
Germany
Poland
Poster analysis The colorful font and black background poster is one of the most famous which was the one published in the united States of America. The poster features Sally using the letter as a chair in one of her first scenes in the movie she is singing, it also includes the words “life is a” making an reference about the most iconic song in the movie “life is a Cabaret”, This is a minimalistic but striking poster as it calls out the broadway reference of the movie and the complete vibe of it. A more descriptive poster is the one used for Germany and France showcasing the opening scene of Sally with the iconic chair act but also in the background a nazi flag hanging from a monument in Berlin, this can signify that as European countries that were involved in the Second World War, this can be more attractive to the European spectators. Very interesting posters is the Polish one as it compiles a surrealist Sally with four legs with the face of Emcee in the middle singing and the Japanese one which showcases Sally in the chair singing from a different angle and lots of pastel colors assuming a show happening.
The director
Bob Fosse was born in Chicago 1927 and was a dance, choreographer, actor and film director in the American cinema starting his career just by the age of 13 years old. His famous musicals were Cabaret (1072), Lenny (1974) and All that jazz (1979). He is known as one of the big choreographers in cinema history and comedy musicals in broadway. With his masterpiece Cabaret were he took the musical to a new level just by putting the songs inside Kit Kat club scenes showcasing and implementing the view and plot that the movie/musical took, he won the Oscar for best director as he made more famous the musical genre by touching for the first time sensible topics at that moment like nazism and erotism. Years later he dedicated his career in Broadway productions. He died in 1987 from a heart attack but he stepped into history as one of the most incredible choreographers and filmmakers in American history.
“Oh you got the toothpaste glass!” -Sally Bowles
Film location The filming of the movie takes place in west Germany as well as rehearsals but editing and some scenes were made in Los Angeles. Bavaria Film studio was founded in 1919 and has participated in the creation of films like The sound of Music by Stanley Kubrick and Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory by Mel Stuart.
Soundtrack
Song written by John Kander and Fred Eb interpreted by Sally singing after her lover Brian left to the United Kingdom and feeling sad, she sings this song in the Kit Kat Club talking about being on a holiday and happy inviting people to join the show, talking about sexual experimentation, drinking, party and enjoying time representing completely Sally’s personality.
Song written by John kander and Fred Ebb made specially for a complete different purpose from the musical which was later included in Cabaret and sung by Liza Minelly (Sally Bowles), showcasing Sally’s hope and dream to be famous and what falling in love feels like. This is one of the most famous songs of the movie.
A duet by Sally Bowler and Emcee as a comedy song talking about the power of Money and how it rules the world.
Mein heir which means “my sir” is a song about a woman having an affair with a man telling him farewell after they had intimacy, showcasing the lifestyle of Sally before meeting Brian. The song also includes words in German alluring and giving the spectator an idea of the scenery of the film.
Concept research
Film innovation
30s
30s Films in the 30s represent the start of “the “golden years” in Hollywood specially by MGM productions, with the start of sound films “talkies” and advances of color in film like Technicolor and the rise the most memorable stars in film like Fred Astaire and Greta Garbo.
Hollywood reached a creative high point as the Hays code in film was starting to loosen up influenced by the hippie movement and civil rights manifestations through the United States. With this new generation of directors and the rise of new story-telling techniques and more artistic options available, Showcasing discontent towards politics and cultural messages was important in at this times such as The parallax view (1074) and the rise of pop cultural movies like Superman (1978).
70s
Social Movements 30s Unemployment movements 1930: As communism was on the rise, they started several organized marches such as hunger marches, eviction marches and unemployment marches. There was frequent violence including beatings and arrests in the streets between police sent by the Unemployed council.
Adolf Hitler as Chancellor of Germany 1933: Hitler named himself as the “Führer” (supreme leader) and created the totalitarian regime also known as Third Reich which created high uncertainty within Europe.
The great depression 1930: The stock market in the United States crashed as wealth and power was unevenly spread during the 1920s but also caused by “the great war”, nevertheless American’s and Canadian’s economy was slowly deteriorating with 15 million unemployed workers at hand and the rise of big protest movements. This was known as the “dirty thirties” as poor living quality, dust storms and unemployment were on the rise but also the beginning of the uncertainty of a new war coming.
Germany enacts Nuremberg laws (1935): A series of antisemite laws were elaborated by the Nazi party which were stated as “the law of protection of blood and honor for Germans”. This created an intense wave of discrimination and hatred against the jew community.
Poland Invasion 1939: Nazis invade Poland which caused Great Britain and France to declare war on Germany which marked the beginning of the Second World War.
"Everyone is broke here, but who isn’t this days?" -Sally Bowles
Emergence of punk and disco 1970: Punk was on the rise as a kind of protest fighting against the countercultural movements of the 60s and influenced by the British youth culture, Disco emerged influenced as the gay’s and women’s rights movements in pop American culture were on the rise as a cultural force. Both of them were seen as a clash of cultures and oftenly were differentiated by two different groups of culture in youth.
Pentagon papers 1971: The pentagon papers were published by the New York Times were they included some confidential content about the US government lying about the situation in the Vietnam war about sending an undercover plane attack against the state of Laos.
Technology advancements 1976: As computers and technology companies are on the rise becoming very innovative and popular at that time. Microsoft and Apple were founded.
Social Movements 70s Legal abortion 1973: The Supreme Court of the United States legalized abortion which caused several protests in favor of the law and against abortion.
Ted Bundy 1979: Ted Bundy was a famous prolific serial killer who appears as charming and with a handsome appearance which created the “serial killer stereotype” and one of the most famous trials in history.
Fashion30s
Puff sleeves Belted waits Old Hollywood evening gowns Short hair Midlength dresses Silk or chiffon blouse Slouch hats
Hollywood glamour Fashion as a sign of escapism of the great depression. The happiness and surrealness of film at that time made many women fantasize about the big elaborates gowns which later became an inspiration for home dress making and imitations made for ready-to-wear.
Sporty clothing outdoor activities starting booming in the 30s as being healthy, active and fit was part of the trend. This garments were inspired in sailor and military uniforms as for example the chic wide leg trousers.
House dresses Casual wear made for the home often made with cotton and bright bold colors as women still preferred to see their own clothes and an opportunity to up-cycle dresses in an economic way.
Denim wear Puffy hair Platform shoes Embroidery Pants and blouses Bell bottom pants Granny dresses Hippie dresses
The granny dress Inspired as a mix between the hippie dress and the Edwardian era (post-victorian era) as a modest Dres with a modern touch. This dresses were often trimmed with ruffles, lace and embroidery. Pants and jeans Cotton or polyester high waisted and wide leg pants often in pastel colors and paired with a tunic top was the perfect outfit of the 1970s as a simple and comfortable everyday wear but also used sometimes as a nightwear.
The hippie look By the influence of the 60s, the hippie look was still prevailing in the 70s with garments like midi skirts, bottom pants, bell bottom jeans and ponchos.
Fashion70s
70s vs 30s Women fashion in the 30s was focused in comfortable and wearable garments embracing their necessities with the rise of full freedom as sexual empowerment was starting to be thing, showcasing a mix between loose garments and styled slim waisted night glamorous garments as the perfect balance. On the other hand the 70s was an era were garments started being portrayed as part of a social statement and activities by the way people dressed, was seen as part of belonging to a certain social group.
Marlene Dietrich
Joan Crawford
Ginger Rogers
Jean Harlow
Fashion icons 30s
Bianca Jagger
Peggy Lipton
Audrey Hepburn
Grace Kelly
Fashion icons 70s
Values
Sexual empowerment: Sally is portrayed as the symbol of sexuality in the movie as an empowered woman who liver her sexuality freely and does not care about society opinions in the matter. The story also involves Brian which is a bisexual man. Freedom and confidence: At the start of the movie, Sally is a single woman who loves having fun and does whatever she wants such as feeling free of talking about her sex life. As the story goes by, she decides to get an abortion which makes it controversial for the era the film was filmed, the 70s.
Escapism: Kit Kat club was portrayed in the movie as an “escape” from all the political uncertainty happening in the outer world. Antisemitism: As the movie goes by, the hatred towards the jews started growing and changing attitudes towards them with the rise of the Nazi party in Germany were people were looking for their own interest and excluding jews.
Cabaret’s influence In an era where women are slowly beginning to raise for their rights and achieve gender equality where they little by little have more access to college and jobs that used to be men’s jobs. Cabaret as a film demonstrates this energy by talking on issues such as sexual freedom and women’s liberation, making even conservatives still somewhat uncomfortable in the 70s. The Kit Kat Club is shown as an escape to fun in uncertain times where people seek to avoid the political and social events of the era as well as the 70s with the rise of disco. While it is true that today we are still seeking gender equality and looking for rights for the LGBT community after the homosexuality liberation in the 70s, it is important to mention that Cabaret is still an influential film today as it shows how far we have come to achieve the freedom that Sally longed for in the film.
"Listen Sally, I swing both ways." -Brian
Film techniques Long shot: Created to give an idea of the space were the movie is taking part of.
Low angles: During the movie there are several shots with this angle mostly when Brian is in the scene as one of the main characters in order to male him look powerful snd “macho” as he expects to be successful in the city.
Close ups: The director shot this scene with a closeup in order to reveal one of the most expected and emotional parts of this film but also to showcase the characters expressions.
Over the shoulder shot: This shot is used to create tension to the spectator in order to make him look through the character as if the spectator is behind him, creating the perception that something Is about to happen.
Close up shot: As the character starts singing with a mysterious and fun face through a reflection in order to show the spectator that the movie started and create the start of a show.
Eye level angle: This is to make the spectator look through the characters eyes in order to see and “feel” what he is looking at.
Key elements
As mentioned before, Bob Fosse decided to put all the musical number inside the Kit Kat Club scenario in order to portray it as a “bubble of escapism” from the outside world problems. This songs were use to represent the characters emotions and specially Sally Bowles in order to take the viewer to a deeper level. The movie is made in bright, vibrant colors that are eye catching specially in the Kit Kat world in order to make the illusion of fantasy with dancers wearing sensual bright color outfits submerging the viewer into the nice/bad contrast.
Film communication
Sensuality: Sally and the dancers at Kit Kat Club dance in very sensual ways with alluring outfits.
Indifference: The Nazis killed a man in the street, Brian and Max discuss how they do not care and do not take much importance.
Sexual empowerment: Sally is the “weimar girl” letting herself have fun sleeping with Brain and Max just because of fun and curiosity.
Love: Sally falls in love with Brian but her self-love was more and she decided to stay in Berlin.
Fashion communication Costumer designer
Charlotte Flemming was the costume designer of the movie were she added her touch of peculiarity and approach to the 30s fashion with a bit of a touch of 70s modernity with the color palette of Sally’s costumes. The character of Sally had the most iconic looks as her outfit with the big fur coat at Brian’s English lesson, This showcases Sally’s eccentric personality and portraying her a the “weimar girl” stereotype.
“Divine decadence darling” -Sally Bowles
Sally Bowle’s identity
This characters influence in fashion advocates using “underwear” as outwear were she wears a mix between kimonos, pijamas and night gowns in an every day basis with her acknowledgeable large green nails which are her symbol for her “divine decadence”. At the club she wears very sensual and tight outfits that mark her figure such as backless leotards and part dresses. Her appearance is always consistent with her personality and seductive characteristics.
This characters influence In contemporary fashion is enormous as she wears wardrobe elements of the popular “jazz costume” and her charisma is what gets the viewers so captivated influencing mostly the queer culture by reflecting the stereotypes of the Cabaret woman, The drag queen community undoubtedly has turned this character for inspiration as they are becoming more relevant in clubs, they follow Sally’s characteristics iconic and aspirational.
Concept development
Contemporary evidence
Movies: The Dammed (1969) is a movie about the rise of the Nazi party in power chronicled with a backdrop of the decadent world of the Weimar republic.
Art: Otto Dix, 1926 “Self portrait with easel”
Art: Bett Hoaglung, “unanmed”
Art: Otto Dix, 1926 “Portrait of the journalist Sylvia Von Harden”
Books: Christopher Isherwood, 1965 “goodbye Berlin”
Fashion: Emma Stone, 2014 for Cabaret
Fashion: Numéro, 2012 “Cabaret issue”
Perfumes: Marc Jacobs, 2016 “Divine Decadence”
Music: ABBA, 1976 “money money money”
Series: Rachel Berry, 2009 “Cabaret”
Key conclusive images
Vogue
Numéro
Andreas Ohlund
Vogue
Vogue
San Antionio Current
Vogue
Wonderland
Annex
Class activities
Bibliography
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