Wilkes Spring 2014

SPRING 2014

$12

TROPICAL HIDEAWAY UNDER THE RADAR IN THE FLORIDA KEYS

COLOR CHECK

RIPE TROPICAL HUES, BOLD NEUTRALS & LOTS OF CHECKS!

UNABASHED BAY AREA STYLE

Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance

WELCOME

GREETINGS FROM THE MITCHELLS & WILKES

WE’VE BEEN BUSY ALL WINTER CREATING A PROPRIETARY TECHNOLOGY PLATFORM THAT WILL BRING CUSTOMER SERVICE TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL...

EXCITING CHANGES ARE IN STORE FOR SPRING! Spring has always been the perfect time for new beginnings. So we are thrilled to announce that we will be rolling out an exciting new program, designed to help us serve you better.

M-Pix, an electronic photo inventory system, is being introduced in all five of our stores. Your favorite sales associate will be happy to show you how it works.

Meanwhile, shipments of stunning new collections for spring/summer 2014 have been arriving daily. Come see the latest creations from our spectacular roster of clothing, accessory and jewelry designers!

We look forward to serving you better than ever this season!

With hugs,

Tyler Mitchell & Wilkes Bashford

WHAT IS M-PIX? M-Pix is a new electronic platform, developed by Mitchells Family of Stores, to enable associates to make visual wardrobing suggestions, both in the store and electronically. We are digitally photographing our inventory across all five stores. Your associate, who is familiar with your wardrobe, lifestyle, events and needs, will be able to “zap” you custom “curated lists,” recommending pieces hand-picked for you... or send pics to quickly satisfy your requests, when you are looking for something. M-Pix also allows them to give you a 360-degree view of our inventory while you’re shopping to complete your look to perfection. This system was created to enhance your shopping experience and make it easier to visualize and gain immediate access to our collective inventory.

Wilkes Bashford

FEATURES

19 British Invasion: Presenting Victoria Beckham 47 Uncommon Threads 48 Q&A: Reed Krakoff 52 Designer Jewelry Showcase 58 Father/Son Makeover 61 Staff Picks

375 Sutter Street San Francisco 415.986.4380

450 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto 650.322.7080 RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Wilkes Bashford CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Andrew Mitchell-Namdar

FASHION

20 Expressions of Style 50 All Tied Up 65 Names to Know 76 Color Check 94 Italian Style

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Tyler Mitchell EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

DEPARTMENTS

2 Welcome Letter 6 Happenings 18 Trunk Shows & Events 72 Food: May the Fowl Be With You 74 Art: Listen Up 75 Spirits: Made-to-Treasure 90 Travel: Tropical Hideaway 92 Music: On the Upswing 100 World Scene 104 At Your Service

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPY

WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES

FOR

ADVERTISERS

CLAIMS,

UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

HAPPENINGS

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

MOAD PRE-CELEBRATES

Far left: Deborah Santana, Willie L. Brown, Jr., Wilkes Bashford and Belva Davis; Left: Marc and Annette Harris; Below: A model presents the latest fashion

With Wilkes Bashford, the Museum of the African Diaspore held a pre-celebration for its annual gala, The World’s Canvas. Former San Francisco Mayor Willie L. Brown, Jr. and his life-long best friend, Wilkes Bashford, co-hosted the cocktail evening, entertaining guests including Deborah Santana and Belva Davis.

MARY SOUZA GALLERY SHOWCASE AT WILKES BASHFORD PALO ALTO Windows featuring new Mary Souza paintings announced the joining of two artistic talents. An artist’s reception with Champagne and live jazz by Mason Rasavi benefited the Ronald McDonald House at Stanford.

Guests enjoyed San Francisco jazz at its best!

Above: Patrons discovered Souza’s newest work Right: Guests shopped to benefit Ronald McDonald House

THREE GENERATIONS OF PASSION, EXPERIENCE AND CREATIVITY.

BONTONI

HAPPENINGS

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

HILLSBOROUGH CLASSIC FILLED WITH FASHION AND PHILANTHROPY Event co-chairs left to right: Hina Maheshwari, Ann Aristedes and Patrice Wilbur

Laurel Miranda, HSF president-elect, and Mairin Macaluso, HSF president

Cindy Chase on the runway; Anthony Ranii, Hillsborough City School District superintendent

The Hillsborough Schools Foundation hosted its annual signature fundraiser, and Wilkes Bashford created a Fashion Show of Fall Must-Haves for the luncheon. Hillsborough parents walked the runway looking like true professional models. It was a day ďŹ lled with tennis, high fashion and shopping.

THE LIGHT FANTASTIC From across a crowded room they sparkle.

Before your eyes, they are nothing less than spectacular. Adorn yourself with Kwiat diamonds and be positively transformed.

HAPPENINGS

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

BLACK+BLUE=7X7 NIGHT VISION EVENING

Below: WB’s Steven Cox with guests; fashionable attendees entertained by founder Wilkes Bashford

Night Vision was the theme as 7x7 Magazine joined Wilkes Bashford to create a perfect event of stylish guests, food, wine and excitement. Mannequins in outrageous cobalt wigs and a pop-up boutique featuring apparel in shades of blue combined with black created eye-catching displays and completed the Night Vision ambience. DJ Dylan Mahoney spun tunes as the members floated throughout the seven-story Townhouse with stops and activity on every floor.

Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace, 1975

HAPPENINGS

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

WILKES HOSTS JEWELRY BASH OF DAZZLE Jewelers Emily & Ashley with Jeff Garelick

Wilkes Bashford and Marilyn Cabak; Dr. and Mrs. Kevin Stone

Above: Designer Yossi Harari and guest; Below left: Nina Kirilova modeling jewelry Left: Joy Venturi Bianchi; Below: Bill Downes and jazz singer Paula West

Ever the venerable host, Wilkes Bashford personally invited guests to his 2nd annual holiday designer jewelry evening at the San Francisco townhouse, featuring offerings from multiple award-winning jewelry artisans such as Yossi Harari, Kimberly McDonald, Paul Morelli, and Emily & Ashley. The staircase fashion presentation was toasted with Champagne and beneďŹ ted the Smuin Ballet.

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

HAPPENINGS

YPO TASTES LUXURY AT WILKES BASHFORD Paul Leary, Wilkes and Mark Barrett

Bob Mitchell networked with members

The Bespoke Collection of wines Lucky gentleman!

Houston Striggow with members and members’ wives on the runway

Left: Members on the runway; Below: Lively conversation filled the first floor of the Townhouse

Members of the esteemed San Francisco Bay YPO chapter came out in full force to greet the Mitchell Family, the Wilkes Bashford team and sponsor Ermenegildo Zegna for an evening filled with luxury. Author Jack Mitchell with son Bob, COO of the Mitchells Family of Stores, spoke to the crowd expounding on the Hug Your Customer culture and Wilkes Bashford acquisition. Tyler Mitchell and Zegna created a virtual demonstration about the new FIT evolution menswear has undergone during the last five years. YPO members and members’ wives walked the runway for a fashion show featuring the best of the best Wilkes Bashford offers, as guests sipped on Dom Perignon and enjoyed a caviar tasting. Mike Polenske, president of the Bespoke Collection, curated all of the wines for this world-class evening.

HAPPENINGS

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

WINE, WOMEN & SHOES BENEFIT THE SF 49ERS ACADEMY!

From top: Hess Rouhafza and guests; gift bags; Sarah Harbaugh (wife of 49ers coach Jim) with Wilkes Bashford’s Marcus McCalister; Hess Reuhafza, Kristi Yamaguchi and husband, hockey player Bret Hedicon, with WB’s Jeff Garelick

Above: Under the Stars Fashion Show; Below: 49ers mascot Sourdough Sam

A feast for the senses was created at a gorgeous private Atherton estate to benefit the San Francisco 49ers Academy. The event thrilled the 350-plus guests that supported the charity’s mission to keep kids safe, on track and in school. The Wilkes Bashford fashion show and walk-around wine and food tasting pleased the stylish crowd as the glitterati and community attended this meaningful event.

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

HAPPENINGS

WILKES BASHFORD AND ISAIA UP THE ANTE!

From top: Jeff Ma contemplated his next play; What a tie!; 11-time World Champion Phil Hellmuth

Phil Hellmuth offered advice

Tyler Mitchell with Dr. Joe Marshall and Brent Johnson

The 7th floor penthouse at the famous Wilkes Bashford San Francisco Townhouse became the setting for a great night of camaraderie and Texas Hold ‘Em sponsored by Isaia and benefiting Alive and Free, formerly the Omega Boys Club. Participants and supporters raised $100,000 while playing poker with 11-time World Series of Poker Champion, Phil Hellmuth.

Among the 50 guests were former San Francisco Mayor Willie Brown and 49er Ronnie Lott.

HAPPENINGS

LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

SPRING 2014 TRUNK SHOWS

3/1-2 3/7 3/7-8 3/8 3/9 3/13-14 3/14-15 3/15 3/21 3/21-22 3/21-22 3/27-30 3/28-29 4/3-5 4/5 4/9-10 4/10-11 4/11-12 4/11-12 4/18 4/18 4/19 4/19 4/24-25 4/26 5/8 5/8 5/9 5/9 5/10 5/13-14

.......................................................................................................................................................

BRIONI TRUNK SHOW.............................................................................................PALO ALTO PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW...............................................................................PALO ALTO ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW ........................................................SAN FRANCISCO PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW.....................................................................SAN FRANCISCO ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW ..................................................................PALO ALTO SYLVA & CIE. TRUNK SHOW & PA...............................................................SAN FRANCISCO BRUNELLO CUCINELLI TRUNK SHOW........................................................SAN FRANCISCO SYLVA & CIE. TRUNK SHOW & PA.........................................................................PALO ALTO TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW...............................................................SAN FRANCISCO BRUNELLO CUCINELLI TRUNK SHOW..................................................................PALO ALTO SARTORIA PARTENOPEA TRUNK SHOW ...................................................SAN FRANCISCO KITON TRUNK SHOW ..............................................................................................PALO ALTO ISAIA TRUNK SHOW .....................................................................................SAN FRANCISCO KITON TRUNK SHOW ....................................................................................SAN FRANCISCO AARON HENRY TRUNK SHOW ...............................................................................PALO ALTO DONALD DEAL TRUNK SHOW ......................................................................SAN FRANCISCO YIGAL AZROUﾃ記 TRUNK SHOW.............................................................................PALO ALTO DONALD DEAL TRUNK SHOW ................................................................................PALO ALTO MICHAEL KORS TRUNK SHOW ....................................................................SAN FRANCISCO PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW...............................................................................PALO ALTO TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW...............................................................SAN FRANCISCO PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW.....................................................................SAN FRANCISCO TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW.........................................................................PALO ALTO BOCHIC TRUNK SHOW .................................................................................SAN FRANCISCO BOCHIC TRUNK SHOW ...........................................................................................PALO ALTO AARON HENRY TRUNK SHOW ...............................................................................PALO ALTO KATHLEEN DUGHI TRUNK SHOW ................................................................SAN FRANCISCO KATHLEEN DUGHI TRUNK SHOW ..........................................................................PALO ALTO TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW...............................................................SAN FRANCISCO TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW.........................................................................PALO ALTO MONIQUE LHUILLIER TRUNK SHOW...........................................................SAN FRANCISCO PA=PERSONAL APPEARANCE

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF EVENTS, GO TO

WILKESBASHFORD.COM

FRESH OUT OF LONDON

INTRODUCING...

BRITISH INVASION

PRESENTING VICTORIA BECKHAM READY-TO-WEAR! For spring 2014, we are thrilled to be introducing award-winning designer Victoria Beckham to our Mitchells and Richards stores! As you may have read, Victoria Beckham ready-to-wear was launched in September 2008 to great acclaim at New York Fashion Week. The collection is entirely handmade in the United Kingdom.

Victoria Beckham’s fashion label represents “modern luxury” and is conceived by Victoria and developed at her studio with the same aspirational, chic and refined aesthetic that is at the heart of her creative vision. Her label represents “only the finest in design, fabrication, material and construction.”

Among many accolades she has received as a new designer, in 2011 Victoria Beckham won Best Designer Brand at the British Fashion Awards. We look forward to introducing you to this exciting, fashion-forward line!

“THE INTERPRETATION OF SHAPES AND HOW TO APPLY THEM BOTH LITERALLY AND CONCEPTUALLY WAS MY STARTING POINT THIS SEASON. “EXPLORING NEW PROPORTIONS HAS ALLOWED ME TO FURTHER DEVELOP MY SILHOUETTE AND I HAVE SET BOYISH ELEMENTS AGAINST A SENSE OF FEMININITY THAT IS MANIFESTED THROUGH THE USE OF LINES, WAVES AND TEXTURED OVERLAYS.” VICTORIA BECKHAM

spring 20 14

“EXPRESSIONS PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING: WENDY McNETT

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– MAE WEST

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– Marilyn Monroe

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“ YOU C A N N E V E R B E OV E R D R E S S E D O R OV E R E D U C AT E D. ”

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“What a strange power there is in clothing.”

– ISAAC BASHEVIS SINGER

“HE’ S ALWAYS ASKING ‘IS THAT NEW ?

I HAVEN’ T SEEN THAT BEFORE .’

“BE YOURSELF. IT ’ S LIKE , WHY DON’ T YOU MIND THE WORLD WORSHIPS THE ORIGINAL.” YOU R OW N B US I N E S S ? S O LV E WO R L D –HUNGER. Ingrid Bergman GET OUT OF MY CLOSET.”

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– Michelle Obama

NEXT GENERATION FAMILY BUSINESS IDEA EXCHANGE

(UN) COMMON THREADS AN INTERVIEW WITH THE MASCOT WINE’S WILL HARLAN

It’s no secret that Harlan Estate produces some of the most coveted, critically acclaimed wine on the planet. With five “perfect” 100 point scores from Robert Parker and an exclusive patronage that includes celebrities, dignitaries and a dedicated following of global collectors, the Harlan family journey is one of Napa’s most legendary success stories.

And now 26-year-old Will Harlan is making his own mark, blazing an exciting new trail for the next generation.

Like Tyler Mitchell, who ventured off from his East Coast family business and came west to expand and evolve their luxury retail footprint with Wilkes Bashford, Will Harlan has stepped out and founded a new wine endeavor, dubbed The Mascot. A “runaway success” from the outset, Will now has the enviable task of making a little wine go a long way. Within their pursuits of wine and fashion, Will and Tyler have found many “common threads.”

WHAT WAS YOUR PURPOSE IN CREATING THE MASCOT? The idea was to make a wine I could share with friends. I began by experimenting with wine produced from the young vines of Harlan Estate and BOND. Realizing that the rigorous blending and vine-maturity requirements of those estates’ wines left some fantastic material on the blending table, so to speak, I saw my opportunity. As the wines aged we bottled and began enjoying them around the family dinner table.

Over time I introduced it to a few friends here and there with an increasingly positive response. It was only then that I was able to convince the family and winemaking team that this project had the potential to really engage a compelling new audience and invigorate our core focus.

“BOTH THE MASCOT AND WILKES BASHFORD REPRESENT NEW FORAYS AND GROWTH WITHIN ESTABLISHED FAMILY INSTITUTIONS, WHILE WE MAKE SURE TO STAY TRUE TO THE CORE AND ESSENCE OF OUR FOREBEARS.” —WILL HARLAN WHAT IS IT LIKE STARTING AN ENTERPRISE IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 2014? The Bay Area is such a unique, progressive environment: being at the center of this dynamic innovation, with companies like Twitter, Dropbox and Uber all run and founded by young people, is unprecedented. The creative energy is everywhere. We feel fortunate to be so close to this talented hub of young entrepreneurs.

They have the interest, curiosity and means to begin exploring fine things—and it’s our mission to be trusted as facilitators in helping them enrich and enhance this facet of their lives.

HOW DOES YOUR PHILOSOPHY OF CUSTOMER SERVICE ALIGN WITH TYLER’S? We both work with people who appreciate experiences and products— things we believe are necessarily entwined— at higher and higher levels. We are focused on creating this experience beyond the handcrafted products, to a point that meets and exceeds the expectations of both the young and discerning.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR OTHER COMMON THREADS? We have an open exchange of ideas and work towards laying the groundwork in creating long-lasting, authentic relationships with others within parallel entrepreneurial and evolutionary paths. Also, we’re working towards something beyond ourselves; we

were given a foundation to grow upon and our vision extends beyond just our current involvement in the projects at hand. There is a clarity of progress towards establishing a lasting entity.

DESCRIBE THE MASCOT’S PROGRESS THUS FAR. We couldn’t have asked for a more fantastic response to the announcement of The Mascot this past October when we released our inaugural vintage, the 2008.

I actually held the pre-launch party for our founding members at Tyler’s panoramic loft in late September — yet another testament to our ongoing mutual support and integration into each other’s worlds. Having recently finished hand-allocating the initial 500-case production of the first vintage before the holidays, we now look forward to offering the 2009 this fall.

WHERE CAN WE FIND THE MASCOT WINE? The philosophy behind The Mascot remains one of friendship and personal relationships.

As such, we focus on carefully releasing our wine through direct allocation. We welcome people to our website (mascotwine.com) where you can read a little more and express interest in securing a place within the private allocation. You also might stumble upon a glass while visiting Tyler in the Penthouse Bar at Wilkes Bashford…

FASHION Q & A

LOCAL DESIGNER WITH GLOBAL ACCLAIM

REED KRAKOFF

THE AWARD-WINNING DESIGNER ON DRESSING THE FIRST LADY, TRUSTING YOUR INSTINCTS AND HOCKEY WITH BOB AND RUSS MITCHELL. How did you find fashion design? (Or did it find you?)

Growing up, I was inspired by my mother’s work in interior design and always had an appreciation for color and form. I grew up playing ice hockey in Weston and there were moments when I thought I wanted to be a professional ice hockey player. I also studied painting at the School of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, but after studying fashion at Parsons in New York, I knew my passion was truly for fashion design.

What was your greatest encouragement to start your own line? After designing for 20 years in the fashion industry, my own aesthetic and point of view seemed relevant and many of my colleagues and editors were supportive of me, so I felt it was time

for me to create a brand that was more personal and direct.

What inspires your work? When I’m designing a collection, I always think about the women wearing my clothes, but for me it’s less about her age or individual style and more about who she is as a person. I envision a modern, working woman who is confident and refined but also feminine and sexy. For me, fashion is about selfexpression.

What is your philosophy as a designer? To create a unique and personal vision.

In life? Trust your instincts.

What have been the biggest milestones in the first 20 years of your career? Being honored three times by the Council of Fashion

Designers of America as the Accessory Designer of the year, being able to dress First Lady Michelle Obama for the 2013 inauguration, swearing in ceremony, her second official White House portrait and the April cover of Vogue have been some of the biggest milestones to date. I’ve also recognized how fortunate I am to love what I do every day.

What are your favorite pieces you’ve ever designed?

Some of my favorite pieces I’ve designed are from the pre-fall 2014 collection. A royal blue Atlas satchel made of viper, a crocodile Anarchy chain bag, tall Oxford boots in black painted python, a pair of black and white mixed exotic loafers I designed in collaboration with J.M. Weston, a nude castor beaver fur vest paired with a black and nude painted python skirt, a pair of black painted python Oxford ankle boots and a Bionic Anarchy chain bag. I love to mix luxe exotic materials in a way that is tailored and edgy, yet soft and feminine.

What are you most excited about for your spring 2014 collection? Each collection is a new chapter, an opportunity to start fresh and tell a different story.

What was it like growing up in Weston, Connecticut?

How did your childhood influence your work?

Growing up in Connecticut was the perfect blend of being near New York City, the epicenter of culture, and being in Fairfield County, which has a great mix of historical culture and colonial architecture.

Favorite travel destination? Paris. Hotel? The Plaza Athénée in Paris. City? It’s always changing. Next summer, I’m spending time in Istanbul with my family. Movie? I watch a lot of documentaries.

I like Black White + Grey, about Robert Mapplethorpe, and The Mystery of Picasso, by HenriGeorges Clouzot. I want to understand... not someone’s life but why they do the things they do; what is the process that gets them there? It’s about all the things you don’t see when you see an end product. I find it really helps me when I get stuck creatively. Book? I’ve been collecting books since high school. Mainly, I’m interested in books on design, art, architecture, photography and sculpture. I’ve actually created a number of books over the years including Fighter: The Ultimate Fighters of the UFC and Women in Art: Figures of Influence. I’ve also contributed to books by French sculptors Claude and Francois-Xavier Lalanne and Swiss designer Mattia Bonetti. Author? John Richardson is my favorite author. He’s one of the world’s leading experts on Picasso. Restaurant? I much prefer to eat at home. My wife is a great cook. In the winter she cooks an amazing beef bourguignon. I don’t go out to eat a lot, but I love Bond Street, Le Bernardin and Daniel. Color? Constantly changing. What are five things you can’t live without? My family of course, but from a practical aspect: black Pentel pens, blank white paper, A.P.C. jeans, John Lobb shoes and black coffee.

What advice would you give to young people starting their careers? Trust your intuition, work hard and find a muse who embodies the aesthetic you’re working towards. For me, it’s my wife Delphine.

What causes are you most passionate about?

I’ve been a longtime supporter of BCRF and Parsons School For Design.

Were you aware of Mitchells as a child?

Describe your relationship with all the Mitchells stores and their customers.

Absolutely. In fact, I grew up playing ice hockey with Bob and Russ Mitchell and I got to know the whole Mitchell family. Many of my friends worked at the store when I was growing up, so it was very much a part of my life.

“BEING ABLE TO DRESS FIRST LADY MICHELLE OBAMA FOR THE 2013 INAUGURATION, SWEARING IN CEREMONY, HER SECOND OFFICIAL WHITE HOUSE PORTRAIT AND THE APRIL COVER OF ‘VOGUE’ HAVE BEEN SOME OF THE BIGGEST MILESTONES TO DATE.”

2.5-3.0” NARROW

2.0-2.5” SKINNY

ALLTIED UP! THE FINISHING TOUCH THAT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

T

hose in the know view ties first and foremost as fashion accessories, divorced from the dress codes of 30 years ago.

While ties paired with suits are still mandatory in some corporate office environments, many guys don’t see them that way: to younger generations, ties in narrower widths and materials like cotton or wool are fashionable accessories that go just as well with jeans and an unconstructed blazer... or no jacket at all.

Take note that ties have been steadily slimming down over the last 10 years, from an average of 4 inches in 1994 to 3.25 inches today. Several widths (as illustrated above) are now acceptable, as long as they’re in proportion to your jacket lapel.

With the pressure off, you’re free to add neckwear to almost any outfit, for almost any occasion. There’s no better way to show your unique personal style.

PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODEL: EMANUELE @ MAJOR MODELS

3.0-3.5” MODERN

LITTLE-KNOWN NECKWEAR FACTS 1.

Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat at the age of seven, igniting a trend that spread across France.

2.

In the early 1700s, leather collars called “stocks” were worn around the neck to protect major blood vessels and encourage soldiers to hold their heads high during battle.

3.

Published in 1818, Neckclothitania or Tietania contains the first printed use of the word “tie” in reference to neckwear.

4.

The long, thin necktie style still used today was born during the industrial revolution, when factory workers needed simple, unfussy neckwear that wouldn’t come undone.

5.

When soldiers returned home from WWII, the Bold Look (characterized by ties that were up to 5 inches wide) showed their eagerness to break free from the conformity of military uniforms.

6.

Since September 2007, doctors in British hospitals have been banned from wearing neckties because they are laundered less frequently than other clothing items.

7.

In their book The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie, physicists Thomas Fink and Yong Mao assert that there are exactly 85 possible ways to knot a conventional necktie. Of these, Fink says, “just over a dozen are sufficiently handsome or different from each other to be worn.”

8.

International Necktie Day (or Cravat Day in Croatia) is celebrated each year on October 18th.

Layering

allows you to create your own signature looks.

CURATED JEWELRY COLLECTIONS At Wilkes Bashford, we like to think of the exquisite collections of fine jewelry you see in our cases as “an everyday exhibition” for our customers to visit, peruse at their leisure and enjoy. These collectible pieces represent the groundbreaking creativity and impeccable craftsmanship of many of the finest jewelry artists in the world today.

As with any piece of art, we encourage you to take your time and discover pieces that “speak to you.”

Whether your style is romantic, classic, modern, abstract or downright surreal, our experienced Jewelry Specialists look forward to helping you to find your masterpiece.

Cage Rings $5,500-$7,500

SYLVA & CIE Designer/ Friend Since 2010 With over 20 years of experience, Sylva Yepremain creates highly distinctive hand-crafted fine jewelry.

Sylva & Cie is based in an old-world manufacturing house in the heart of the downtown Los Angeles jewelry district.

Sylva, a passionate collector of antique jewelry, alludes to the vintage looks

from the Art Deco period as a sizeable source of inspiration for her modern-day collections. Each piece Sylva creates combines nature and the environment with molten metals and colorful jewels, respecting their organic and unrefined beginnings. Born in Lebanon, Sylva spent many years in Paris, and at the

age of 16 moved to Los Angeles. Sylva also received training from her father, who was a master jeweler for The Maison Cartier in Paris. Every piece Sylva designs is a limited-edition piece that is hand-wrought and hand-faceted in Los Angeles.

OSCAR HEYMAN

Designer/ Friend Since 2008

Oscar Heyman’s founding brothers trained in the rigorous workshops of Fabergé before leaving Eastern Europe for New York in 1906. At the company’s inception in 1912, there were three brothers, Nathan, Oscar and Harry, who brought with them not only their rarified skills, but an abiding passion for gemstones and an old-world approach to gracious customer service. The Heyman family has run the business for three generations, each imparting centuries-old skills and technical know-how to the next.

Today, members of the second and third generations work together with dedicated and skilled employees who continue to make jewelry of the highest standards for connoisseurs of the 21st century.

Platinum and Diamond Bracelet price upon request

Rough Diamond: the artistry of nature meets the creativity of man (& woman).

Earring: SUTRA Ring: SYLVA & CIE Bangle: SUTRA Cuff: TODD REED

Golden Ring Collection $1,950-$7,200

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR Designer/ Friend Since 1997 Temple St. Clair Fine Jewelry was founded in 1986 in Florence, Italy by designer Temple St. Clair Carr. Her first collection debuted exclusively at Barneys New York in the fall of 1987. Temple St. Clair expanded to luxury retailers throughout the United States, becoming an essential for an in-the-know clientele.

From the signature rock crystal amulets to collectible cocktail rings, Temple St. Clair is known for modern classic style, an impeccable use of fine colored gemstones and distinctive gold work.

The philosophy of the company is to offer the highest quality in fine jewelry while introducing collectors to timeless

design, exquisite colored gemstones and gold craftsmanship, for which Temple St. Clair is known. Temple St. Clair presents new seasonal collections every spring and fall. The company’s unique pieces are regularly featured in top fashion and lifestyle magazines worldwide.

Pratesi at Wilkes Bashford 375 Sutter Street, San Francisco | 415 291 9480

MEN’S FASHION

HAVE YOU NOTICED BILL’S NEW LOOK?!

FATHER/SON MAKEOVER BILL MITCHELL “GETS HIS STYLE ON” WITH AN UPDATED LOOK BY SON TYLER. MAYBE YOUR DAD OR HUSBAND COULD USE THE SAME?

Tyler Mitchell had been perturbed by his father’s style. “Anyone who knows my dad knows he has this incredibly fun, engaging, upbeat and inspiring personality. None of this was reflected in his clothing.”

So, careful to select pieces that were fashion forward, yet appropriate, Tyler got to work... starting from top to bottom, eyewear to footwear.

Bill had been wearing khakis and a navy blazer or other expected basics for as long as Tyler could remember. To start, Tyler chose a three-piece suit, a current trend, in the new updated fit and a fabric with the right splash of personality.

Next, the white shirt and wide tie were replaced with a beautiful, richly colored blue shirt and a narrower silk tie.

For the shoes, Tyler selected a classic cap-toed laceup that is elegant and transcends age. “I would wear those shoes!” Tyler complimented Bill.

Finally, the eyewear. Bill hadn’t changed the style of his glasses in years, so Tyler helped him find some thicker frames that Tyler feels are “bold, like Dad’s personality.”

Tyler proceeded to edit Bill’s wardrobe and has worked with him on his casual and sporty looks as well.

The results? Bill is delighted and doesn’t know why he didn’t think of this before, hanging out where he does everyday! If you see Bill, you’ll probably notice a new spring in his step...

HOW CAN I GET TO LOOK MORE LIKE YOU?

IMPOSSIBLE...

JUST KIDDING, LET’S GET TO WORK!

ALL IN THE... DETAILS BILL’S HEAD-TO -TOE

MAKEOVER INCLUDED A NEW SUIT, SHIRT, TIE, SHOES AND EYEWEAR. TYLER IS PLEASED THAT BILL’S LOOK FINALLY MATCHES HIS PERSONALITY!

cap-toed lace-up

slimmer tie

updated eyewear

three-piece suit, tailored fit

Fast, free and convenient pickup/delivery throughout the San Francisco Bay Area Friendly customer service Green and state-of-the-art technology for cleaning various types of materials and garment constructions

“Alex’s has partnered with Wilkes Bashford for the last ten years.

They stand for everything we strive to stand for here at Wilkes Bashford: quality service, quality product, a sense of urgency and a smile!” —Tyler Mitchell

1-800-44-VALET | alexdryclean.com

The Four Seasons in Istanbul.

CHRISTINE ROBBINS SAN FRANCISCO

The Burritt Room, San Francisco

Good bar spots: Campton Place.

Bix, San Francisco

Chic and intimate, great meeting spot and one of the best burgers in town. And the bar at The Burritt

to be a fantastic San Francisco

Room at Charlie Palmer: good spot

restaurant. Great food consistently and

downtown for live jazz and good bar

interesting crowd. Off to Napa: Redd

food. Restaurants: Bix — supper club

has excellent food, great brunch and

atmosphere, great food, live jazz,

the best Bloody Mary. Don Giovanni

a longtime city favorite. Delfina has

is still a favorite spot — nice outdoor

the best Italian food; hard to get in,

garden patio to enjoy warm Napa days

but so worth it. And their pizzeria is

and great food. Bistro Jaunty is a

fantastic. Heirloom has great fresh

perfect French bistro food within

organic food and a cool vibe in the

a relaxed atmosphere.

Mission. Nice wines. Zuni continues

Not too stuffy.

STAFF PICKS

You trust them to help you choose your clothing, outerwear, shoes and accessories. They understand what you like when it comes to

gifts, fashion and style. So, it would only make sense that our “lifestyle experts” would also have some great tips when it comes to some of the other finer things in life... like travel, restaurants, beaches and day trips. Here, we’ve asked a panel of staff and associates to share some personal recommendations.

Located on a pristine 20,000-acre

SANDY ROSS

South Carolina low-country nature

SAN FRANCISCO

Favorite resort: Inn at Palmetto Bluff, Bluffton, SC.

preserve along the May River, The Inn at Palmetto Bluff defines sophisticated southern charm

Inn at Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina

and hospitality! There are beautiful Favorite local restaurant: Zarzuela.

guest cottages, wonderful food and

An authentic slice of Spain in the heart of

lots of activities, including the top-

Russian Hill. Warm, professional service.

rated spa, golf, horseback riding,

Favorites include the poached octopus,

fishing and water sports. Don’t

jamon iberico and chorizo al vino tapas

miss a cruise on Grace, a restored

and, of course, the fantastic sangria.

1913 yacht!

MELYSSA MINAMOTO PALO ALTO

Favorite local restaurant: The Restaurant at Meadowood in St.

Hanzell Chardonnay

Helena in the Napa Valley. Beautiful and intimate, and the people there provide a wonderful dining experience.

The chef’s tasting menu is creative in presentation, textures and flavors. Special wine find: Hanzell Chardonnay, because a foodie friend

or Matt Davis Trail, which all lead to

of mine would always serve it for his

Stinson Beach. A perfect day is a hike

multi-course dinner parties. I toured

down the mountain in the morning,

their winery in Sonoma and took in the

take in the forest smells and ocean

gorgeous views. Favorite day trip: I love

views, a lunch break at Stinson Beach,

going to Mount Tamalpais for a hike

and then work off lunch hiking the

on the Dipsea Trail, Steep Ravine Trail

switch-backs up the mountain.

CATHY UBELL

Lardoise Bistro, San Francisco

SAN FRANCISCO

Best local restaurant: Lardoise Bistro.

Favorite places to stay: Ventana or

It’s the next best thing to being

The Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur,

in Paris. Best restaurants in New York:

California. Eat at Nepenthe and

Daniel and Carlyle Hotel on the

Sierra Mar. It’s a little bit of heaven

Upper East Side, and Raoul’s in Soho.

right here on Earth! Best walk in

Best sunset: Above The Cliff House

New York: The Esplanade at

in San Francisco.

Battery Park.

ROBERT SIMMONS

Joya, Palo Alto

The Lanesborough, London

PALO ALTO

Favorite restaurant locally: Joya in

facials and waxing in the Marina SF

Palo Alto. Great Spanish fusion tapas.

on Chestnut St. Favorite hotel: The

Favorite restaurant anywhere: The

Lanesborough, London. A personal

Great British on N. Audley St. in the

butler for every room and a discreet

Mayfair district of London. Amazing

Cigar Bar in the basement. Luxury,

traditional English breakfast.

class and elegance at its best. Favorite

Favorite day trip: Duh, Napa! Favorite

place to get lost: Eataly NYC. The

spa: Liz Dulcich Skin Care. Amazing

Italian coffee at Lavazza is the best!

Garnier in Paris. Best place for a bike

KEISHA PIERRE-STEPHEN

ride: The Wiggle in San Francisco.

SAN FRANCISCO

Favorite restaurant locally: Zuni Cafe.

Favorite restaurant anywhere: Pierre

Favorite beach locally: La Jolla Beach, California. Favorite beach anywhere: Bondi Beach in Sydney, or Torquay Beach in Melbourne. Favorite day trip: Napa Valley. Special wine find: The Frescobaldi Estate in Tuscany, Italy.

Favorite spa: Rosina’s in Napa Valley.

The Fresobaldi Estate, Tuscany

Favorite market: The Victoria Market in Melbourne — nothing like it world-

Peaks in San Francisco. Best place

wide. Favorite hotel or resort: Hilton in

for happy hour: W Hotel. Best luxury

Shanghai. Best place for sunset: Twin

destination club: Inspirato.

JEFF GARELICK

The Big Island, Hawaii

SAN FRANCISCO

Favorite restaurant locally:

Ferry Building, San Francisco.

Kokkari. Favorite restaurant

Favorite island: Big Island, Hawaii.

anywhere: Sobaya, New York. Best

Favorite place to get lost: Tokyo.

place for a walk: Botanical Garden,

Favorite place to escape: Glen

San Francisco. Favorite market:

Oaks, Big Sur.

NAMES TO KNOW

CALLING ALL FASHIONISTAS! MEET SOME OF THE MOST DARING & INVENTIVE DESIGNERS IN THE WORLD TODAY—SOME NEW, SOME TRIED & TRUE, ONE COMING THIS FALL (DEREK LAM)!

ON THE PAGES THAT FOLLOW, CATCH A GLIMPSE OF WHAT THEY’VE BEEN UP TO.

IRO IRO, a Paris-based fashion house, was founded by brothers Laurent and Arik Bitton in 2005. With a background in the music industry, Laurent and Arik decided to channel their love for music into fashion.

Inspired by fashionable women from their inner circle, they created a clothing line that has a distinct vintage feel and at the same time mirrors a nonchalant, easy-chic style.

STELLA MCCARTNEY McCartney’s designs combine understated seduction, sharp tailoring, natural confidence and sexy femininity. This season, look for flirty silhouettes that experiment with transparency and opacity.

LANVIN Creative director Alber Elbaz’s spring collection is all about over-the-top shine and surprising silhouettes.

“I think that freedom is luxury and luxury is freedom,” he states simply.

RAG & BONE Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s brand has become synonymous with very wearable clothing that innovatively melds classic tailoring with an edgy yet understated Downtown New York City aesthetic.

TULAH JEM Designer Sally Kruteck-Siegel creates casual luxury jewelry, mixing pavé diamonds with gold, leather, fabric and gemstones. This mixture gives the line a timeless and sexy elegance that moves seamlessly from informal to red carpet.

THE ROW Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen design for “an ecentric, very well-dressed nomad,” taking inspiration and garments from their travels around the globe. The spring collection references Arabia, Northern Africa, Russia and other exotic locales with its rich patterns and shapes.

L’AGENCE Creator Margaret Maldonado strives to combine the best quality fabrics with classic forms.

She uses washed silks and Japanese and Italian fabrics to create luxurious, yet well-priced pieces.

Every season is meant to complement the next, a fresh interpretation of classic styles.

DEREK LAM “Design-wise, my tendency is to look at clothes in a minute way. This season, my challenge was to allow playfulness.” In Derek Lam’s 10th season, pulling back lends his clothes an appealing and iconic minimalism. Coming to SF and PA in fall 2014.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN In this collection, Sarah Burton was inspired by “a cultural merger between African tribal and early 20th-century art,” while cross-referencing the McQueen ’90s street style. A mix of elaborate details and luxurious textiles is what this season is all about.

VALENTINO Valentino’s famed accessory designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are now co-creative chiefs of the legendary fashion house. The duo continues to bring a sexy edge to their classic designs with their iconic Rockstud accessories collection.

YIGAL AZROUËL After a few more “exploratory seasons,” Yigal Azrouël is staying true to his signature style... offering stunningly polished, bodyconscious clothing with a streetwise vibe.

SYLVA & CIE Sylva Yepremain, a passionate collector of antique jewelry, alludes to vintage looks from the Art Deco period as a source of inspiration for her modern-day collections. Each piece she creates combines nature and the environment with molten metals and colorful jewels, respecting their organic and unrefined beginnings.

food MAY THE

FOWL

BE WITH YOU

FRIED CHICKEN GETS DRESSED UP. By Donald Charles Richardson

SO WHAT IF VERSIONS OF FRIED CHICKEN have been eaten since ancient times in Europe and Asia, chicken fried in palm oil has been a longstanding staple in West African cuisine, and the Scots were early proponents of frying chicken in fat? (Some even credit them with introducing the technique to the United States.) Despite its worldly history, fried chicken has become an inimitably American dish. After all, how many other countries celebrate National Fried Chicken Day? (July 6th, FYI.) It’s almost impossible not to love fried chicken. It’s crispy, satisfying, delicious, and like all great comfort foods, it can even evoke nostalgia: memories of Sunday family dinners, summer picnics or late-night refrigerator raids. (Few things

72

in life are quite so satisfying as discovering an overlooked chicken leg.)

Although fried chicken has always been popular, these days it’s become so fashionable that even elitist gourmets are crying fowl. And cooks all over the country are keeping abreast of this current passion for poultry.

Raised on a farm, Mildred Cotton Council spent years learning and creating her recipes. In 1976, she finally opened Mama Dip’s Kitchen (Mama Dip was her childhood nickname) in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, where she continues to turn out some of the best fried chicken in the country. “I’m a country cook. I can tell how a chicken is raised by the taste,” she asserts.

THOR SWIFT

Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc

When asked if she has a special recipe, Mama Dip explains that she has “never called it a recipe” before sharing her prep routine: she soaks the chicken in a big tub filled with salt water, then rinses it off, dips it in flour and adds black pepper.

“Best not to freeze for fried chicken,” she cautions. “People get chicken on sale and put it in a freezer, [but you] need a fresh chicken to begin with. Every day we get a delivery.”

Chicken and waffles at Birch & Barley

different dipping sauces, including buffalo hot, satan spicy, homemade ranch buttermilk, barbeque and honey mustard.

It stands to reason all the attention on this essentially simple American dish was eventually bound to ruffle the feathers of famous chefs. Renown for the gastronomic experiences he creates at his legendary French Laundry and Per Se restaurants, Thomas Keller salutes home cooking with Ad Hoc in Yountville, California. Here, chef de cuisine Katie HaganWelchel treats chickens like poultry royalty. Using only local birds no larger than 2.5 pounds (to promote even cooking), the chicken is cut into 10 pieces and spends 12 hours in an

Mama Dip always serves her fried chicken with biscuits.

Another tip she’s generous enough to reveal: “I started making biscuits with plain self-rising flour with a little extra baking powder mixed in there. It’s really good.”

Other restaurants, vying for the cock of the walk title, have come up with their own inventive methods of making fried chicken. In Portland, Oregon, David Kreifels, one of the three partners who’ve created Simpatica and Laurelhurst Market (named in 2010 as one of the best new restaurants by Bon Appétit) says they only serve fried chicken from the butcher shop on Tuesdays at Laurelhurst Market, and at brunch on Sundays at Simpatica.

The chicken is soaked in buttermilk overnight, dusted with a blend of curry powder, flour, salt, pepper and paprika, then fried in oil. The spice coating allows the chicken to develop a nice crisp at a lower oil temperature. It’s allowed to “rest” after frying and Kreifels says, “As it cools the crust gets crispier… and the crust stays on because of the lower heat.” Their chicken is served with waffles in fruit syrup.

In Washington D.C., Birch & Barley’s fried chicken and waffle dish is so popular that husband and wife team Kyle (chef) and Tiffany (pastry chef) Bailey have opened another restaurant, GBD (Golden, Brown & Delicious), that highlights fried chicken along with their gourmet doughnuts. You can actually order a fried chicken sandwich with a doughnut as the bread. (Truly, you can!) GBD uses 100 percent hormone-free chickens plunged into a buttermilk brine then fried fresh to order. It’s served with sides like crème fraiche biscuits, scallion potato salad, pimento mac ‘n cheese, creamed kale and roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and presented alongside 12

IT’S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE NOT TO LOVE FRIED CHICKEN.

73

herb-lemon brine (to help the meat stay juicy). It’s air dried to room temperature then dredged in flour mixed with garlic, onion powder, paprika, cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper. Next it’s dipped in buttermilk, then returned to the flour mixture and finally fried in peanut oil. Chef HaganWhelchel uses two different fryers—one for white meat, another for dark—pointing out that dark meat takes longer and she prefers to cook it at a lower temperature (320 degrees) than the white (340 degrees). Fried chicken at Ad Hoc is on the menu every other Monday and served with corn bread and seasonal vegetables. It’s also available in a box lunch at Addendum in the garden behind Ad Hoc, from Thursday through Saturday.

When you get right down to it, whether simple or sophisticated, fried chicken at its best is soul-satisfying food you eat with your fingers while having a really wonderful time. “Fried chicken somehow emotionally resonates with everybody,” says Hagan-Whelchel. “It’s a thread through all of us… it just makes you feel good.”

DAVID REAMER

Laurelhurst Market Steakhouse & Butcher Shop

art

Installation view of Soundings: A Contemporary Score at New York City’s MoMA. Inset: Janet Cardiff, The Forty Part Motet , Fuentidueña Chapel at The Cloisters

Listen Up! was The Cloisters’ entrée into contemporary art, and it was a first for Cardiff as well, since the exhibit was previously shown only in stark, modern rooms; this time, the backdrop was the beautiful Fuentidueña Chapel. Associate curator Anne Strauss referred to the work as “a contemporary artist deconstructing a renowned 16th-century piece of music, transforming it into her own masterwork presented in a 12th-century setting.”

The exhibit was breathtaking: 40 speakers set up in an ovular shape each played the recording of a singular voice from a member of the Salisbury Cathedral Choir. Together, the voices sang the 40-part motet Spem in alium numquam habui by Tudor composer Thomas Tallis. The 11-minute performance opened with a verbal introduction by the artist and played continuously during the museum’s operating hours. Guests were encouraged to walk around the room and listen to each speaker— separately and collectively—to gain the overall sensory experience.

New York’s Museum of Modern Art also featured an exhibit in this emerging genre last year. Soundings: A Contemporary Score was MoMA’s first major exhibition of sound art and featured the work of 16 contemporary artists. The museum’s website described the exhibit: “These artistic responses range from architectural interventions, to visualizations of otherwise inaudible sound, to an exploration of how sound ricochets within a gallery, to a range of field recordings—including echolocating bats, abandoned buildings in Chernobyl, 59 bells in New York City, and a sugar factory in Taiwan.... The exhibition posits something specific: that how we listen determines what we hear.” Intrigued yet?

Like art, sound installations can be exhibited in various forms. As IJzerman says, “It can be a sculpture in which sound is a dominant factor, or a knitted sculpture which reacts with sound when you touch it.

Sound installation art is very much intertwined with both the exploration of music and sounds, but also sculptures and interactive systems.”

Sound installations are a growing trend in the contemporary art world. Some attribute their popularity to the globalization of music through the internet. As Mark IJzerman, a sound artist/composer and writer for Everyday Listening, a website that posts various sound and art installations, sees it, “[The internet] makes way for music that uses sounds in different ways, which is why people’s ears are open to a wider variety. Sound is all around us, but we’re often not truly aware of it in the same way as the things we see because sound is temporal, fleeting. Learning how to focus on ‘active listening’ takes time and concentration, maybe more than looking at a painting, for example.”

Garnering recent attention was Janet Cardiff’s Forty Part Motet, presented at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s The Cloisters. This exhibit

74

PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN MUZIKAR, © 2013 THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK. INSET: THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART/WILSON SANTIAGO

THE NEWEST CONTEMPORARY ART EXHIBITS ARE HEARD, NOT SEEN.

BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

Made-to-Treasure RESORTS AND RESTAURANTS OFFER GUESTS ONE-OF-A-KIND DRINKING EXPERIENCES.

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

IT'S NO LONGER ENOUGH to order a standard blended whisky, or even an 18-year expression of your go-to Scotch before dinner. The latest trend: custom barrel selections and blends exclusive to specific restaurants, bars and resorts.

Such custom and one-off bottlings have been around for years through high-end liquor stores and private tasting societies. But as the cocktail and fine drinking scenes evolve, more bars and restaurants are clamoring for a customized spirit.

Woodford Reserve Bourbon offers two programs for restaurateurs and beverage managers: A single-barrel selection, and an unusual two-barrel blend, which sees the venue working directly with master distiller Chris Morris to create an exclusive whiskey, the selections winnowed down from over 100 possible barrels.

"As far as I know, we have the only program like this," says Morris.

Destinations like The Cloister at Sea Island (Georgia), The Edison in Los Angeles and the St. Regis in Atlanta have taken advantage. "It's so fun to watch the dynamics of each account: Some want a sweeter blend, some spicier. It's always unique; you can't replicate a two-barrel batch."

Michael MacDonnell, beverage director at the Monte Carlo in Las Vegas, concurs: "Uniqueness is one of the top selling points. Nowhere

75

else in the world has it, and when it's gone, it's gone forever." The resort offers an exclusive Knob Creek single-barrel reserve Bourbon and is now offering the first-ever Russell's Reserve select single barrel from Wild Turkey Distiller Jimmy Russell.

Often the restaurant will craft a signature or private selection cocktail. Chef Marc Murphy's bar/restaurant Kingside, in Manhattan's luxe new Viceroy Hotel, features a custom Michter's Whiskey (aged in a custom deep-char barrel) in its own barrel-aged Manhattan. At Emeril Lagasse's Las Vegas venues, he drops a custom Buffalo Trace Eagle Rare single-barrel reserve into three seasonal cocktails: The NOLA Mule, the Bourbon Milk Punch and the Autumn Pomme. Bam! Such exclusivity isn't reserved for whiskeys: Herradura tequila offers a Buy the Barrel program to restaurants around the country, including several Richard Sandoval properties in New York; at contemporary Japanese eatery Shibuya in Las Vegas, you'll find exclusive sakes dubbed Neo-Tokyo and Hachiko; and at Four Seasons Milan, you can order a custom Italian (sweet) vermouth.

"It's wonderful to see people come back and select new barrels for seasonality or specific food pairings," says Morris. "Restaurants and resorts are finding they're selling out so fast that they're saying, 'we've already got to do this again.'"

IMAGE BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

THE LATEST TREND: CUSTOM BARREL SELECTIONS AND BLENDS EXCLUSIVE TO SPECIFIC RESTAURANTS, BARS AND RESORTS.

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TRAVEL

A JAUNT TO THE FLORIDA KEYS

LUSH, EXOTIC & UNDER-THE-RADAR: THE MOORINGS VILLAGE & SPA

TROPICAL HIDEAWAY THE MOORINGS VILLAGE & SPA ISLAMORADA, FL 305-664-4708 MOORINGSVILLAGE.COM

Islamorada or “purple island,” named for its violet sunsets, sits midway between Miami and Key West, in the upper part of the string of islands known as the Keys. The former stomping grounds of Zane Gray, Jimmy Stewart and many presidents, Islamorada is known for legendary sportfishing and its remote yet easy-to-reach location.

Set on a tropical former coconut plantation, the Moorings Village & Spa is a welcome departure from what most people expect from a Florida vacation.

Frenchman Hubert Baudoin purchased the original property in 1987 and by 1989 bought 14 adjacent acres. He has painstakingly transformed it into a calming paradise in an effort to preserve the architecture, vegetation and “vibe”

of the Florida Keys of the 1930s and ’40s.

Baudoin’s vision was to create an elegant, under-the-radar resort, where everything lies below a lush tree canopy. A resident botanist tends to a magnificent array of banyans, coconut palms, hibiscus, gardenia, jasmine and countless other specimens that scent the property and give guests the feeling of being in a pristine tropical jungle.

Most of the accommodations are freestanding plantation-style houses, with two bedrooms upstairs and living space downstairs. There are larger houses as well, including the three-bedroom Plantation House and the grand Blue Charlotte. All have covered verandas on which to sit and savor the setting.

The vegetation is so spectacular that the Moorings is a sought-after location for photo shoots. In an on-site studio, you can peruse iconic images that have been photographed there by Cartier, Ralph

Lauren, Versace and Gap, to name a few.

Vogue, Elle and other magazine covers grace these walls, as do two issues of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition.

The gracious, yet unobtrusive service is “on demand,” there when you want it, and invisible when you don’t. There is no room service or 24-hour desk, but someone is on call 24/7 to get you what you need.

The property has two restaurants: Morada Beach Café for barefoot-friendly seafood and burgers, and Pierre’s for French fusion. Coastal Highway 1, a short walk away, is spotted with restaurants, shops and all the fun kitsch you’d expect to find in the Keys plus all the Key lime pie you could ever eat. A common local debate abounds over who makes the best version.

Kayaks, paddle boards, fishing poles, bicycles, a spa, gym and tennis courts are all available on-site. If you get serious about fishing, the staff will turn you on to colorful guides for on- or off-shore fishing.

Most local restaurants offer an option to bring in your catch for them to prepare.

Islamorada is also known for some of the finest snorkeling and scuba in the east, and the Keys have the only real reefs in Florida.

Get certified in scuba if you’re so inclined.

The Moorings isn’t for everyone. If you want a bustling scene, go elsewhere. But if you’re seeking quality family (or extended family) time, father-son time, motherdaughter spa time or guy fishing time... there are few places that offer its unique charms, so easy to get to, without going through customs or crossing borders.

A TASTE OF ISLAMORADA: KEY LIME PIE FROM PIERRE’S CHEF, JOUVENS JEAN ingredients for crust • 1-1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs from 9 (2 1/4-inch by 4 3/4inch) crackers • 2 tablespoons sugar • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

ingredients for filling • 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk • 4 large egg yolks • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh or bottled Key lime juice ingredients for topping • 2 egg whites • 4 tablespoons sugar • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 350°F. make crust: Stir together graham cracker crumbs, sugar and butter in a bowl with a fork until combined well, then press mixture evenly onto bottom and up side of a 9-inch (4-cup) glass pie plate. Bake crust in middle of oven 10 minutes and cool in pie plate on a rack. Leave oven on. make filling and bake pie: Whisk together

condensed milk and yolks in a bowl until combined well. Add juice and whisk until combined well (mixture will thicken

slightly). Pour filling into crust and bake in middle of oven 15 minutes. Cool pie completely on rack at room temperature (filling will set as it cools), then allow pie to chill for at least 8 hours. make topping: To make the meringue topping beat egg whites until frothy; gradually add sugar, continuing to beat until stiff peaks form. Add vanilla or other flavoring. Spoon onto pie, spreading to crust edge to seal filling in. Bake at 325° for 15 to 18 minutes, until nicely browned.

music

On the UPSWING

All across America, the popularity of jazz is hitting a high note. By Donald Charles Richardson

Around 11:30 at night, several stories up in a high-rise building adjacent to Central Park, a crowd gathers for one of the most exciting experiences available to people who live in or visit New York City.

Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola (named for jazz legend Dizzy Gillespie) is part of the Jazz at Lincoln Center program. According to general manager Roland Chassagne, “Dizzy’s has been open for close to 10 years and reached a level of being one of the top jazz clubs in the world. We provide the trifecta as we say: great music, great food and great views.” Regular evening performances feature famous jazz artists, and Late Night Sessions present new and innovative performers, attracting aficionados

who knowledgeably toss around the names of both famous and littleknown musicians, couples on romantic dates, and some who simply like the music. Michael Mwenso, curator and programming associate at Dizzy’s, hosts Late Night Sessions on Thursdays and Saturdays. “We showcase young bands, young musicians… we give them a chance.”

At the other end of the country, in San Francisco, is SFJAZZ. Randall Kline, its founder and executive/artistic director, has booked the finest jazz musicians in the world for nearly 30 years and built this organization into a year-round institution that gives more than 200 concerts annually and treats jazz as a major art form. The recently opened free-

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BRAD FEINKNOPF

Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola, Jazz at Lincoln Center

standing concert hall, the first of its type in the U.S., is located in the heart of San Francisco’s cultural and creative district. “A standalone [facility] affords jazz a profile it hasn’t had before,” explains Kline. “You have live music right at street level. People walking by are a part of it.”

In these two major institutions as well as at small clubs and large theaters, festivals and concerts all over the world, the renewed popularity of jazz is hitting a high note. Jason Olaine, director of programming for Jazz at Lincoln Center, says, “More people are consuming jazz today than ever before. Jazz is on the upswing. Some people get it… Others just appreciate it from the standpoint of pure musicianship.”

One of the best musicians in the business is Joshua Redman, whose primary instrument is the tenor saxophone. (Walking Shadows, his latest album, has received superb reviews.) “I want people to come to jazz with open minds and open hearts,” says Redman. “It’s very intense and complex music. It’s not the easiest music to penetrate immediately. But jazz musicians are looking to express themselves and play music with spirit and soul. Come [to a jazz club] without expectations. Truly listen and it can be a very intense and rewarding experience.”

Along with this juxtaposition of discovery, appreciation and enjoyment, it’s the spontaneity of jazz that can generate a uniquely exciting experience for the audience.

“They’re creating right in front of [the audience],” says Seth Abramson, artistic director of the popular Jazz Standard in New York City. “At their best it’s as if they don’t even know the audience is there.”

Laurent Saulnier is vice president of production and programmation at Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, the biggest jazz festival in the world. He reveals that during the festival, jam sessions take place every night from 11 to 3. “Famous musicians will jump in and just play.

And you never know what will happen during those sessions.”

Mwenso echoes the sentiment: “You never know how the night might go [at Dizzy’s Late Night Sessions], but sometimes there’s pure magic.”

These moments, when the jazz group is, as Abramson terms it, “swinging,” are remarkable. And Kline points out that “it’s live. It’s not going to be the same every evening.”

“Being in the zone, feeling the spirit, feeling connected,” is how Redman describes the experience. “We don’t often speak about it because we don’t want to lose the mystery of it. It happens when our training and study and hard work and time and discipline and practice all take a backseat… in the moment of inspiration, something magical happens.”

Olaine recalls an unforgettable moment when Grammy Award-winning Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba played for the first time with drummer Tony Williams (a longtime drummer for Miles Davis). They had just met and started to play Herbie Hancock’s Maiden Voyage. “They played [the first section] with such delicate care and tender finesse…”

Olaine remembers. “They extended that out for such a period of time, the hairs on your arm were just standing straight up. When they moved to the next section, the crescendo was so gradual you could have heard a pin drop.”

“Moments when all the musicians are in sync are rare… musician’s nirvana,” says Saulnier. The most difficult is getting the entire audience to have that moment at the same time. He remembers a couple of years ago when Leonard Cohen performed at the festival. When he started the song Suzanne, “there wasn’t a single breath in the room. We cannot program that special moment,” Saulnier adds, “but individuals will have their own moments at different times.”

“Just listen,” says Redman. “It’s not science. There are complexities in jazz that rival the most complex science, but it’s about listening. It’s yours when you listen.”

Joshua Redman

“YOU HAVE LIVE MUSIC RIGHT AT STREET LEVEL. PEOPLE WALKING BY ARE A PART OF IT.” — Randall Kline, founder of SFJAZZ

Brazilian vocalist Leny Andrade

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Style

A CRASH COURSE IN EASY ELEGANCE, FROM THE WORLD’S MOST WELL-DRESSED MEN.

PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODELS: EFREN @ MSA, JHANELLE @ MAJOR, EMANUELE @ MAJOR.

ITALIAN

Brown Shoes PAIR PERFECTLY WITH GRAY OR NAVY SUITS IN A MODERN SLIM FIT.

Spring Layering GETS YOU THROUGH THE SEASON IN STYLE, WHILE WHITE TROUSERS BALANCE COLOR ON TOP.

Tailored Outerwear DOUBLES AS A BLAZER WHEN WORN WITH A DRESS SHIRT AND TIE.

PLAY WITH

Prints & Patterns IN BOLD COLOR (AND SKIP THE SOCKS).

Lightweight Knits LEND AN EFFORTLESS COOL TO SLIM COLORED CHINOS.

world scene

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Experience life’s little luxuries.

TOUJOURS PROVENCE

BRUNO PRECHEMINSKY

Quietly sequestered among the vineyards, olive groves and lavender fields in the South of France is the sleek, modern, nearly 750-acre Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort. Here, golfers are welcomed with two championship 18hole courses and the Leadbetter Golf Academy, featuring the world’s top instructors. Spend the morning improving your swing, then pass a lazy afternoon at the infinity pool (with a breathtaking view of the Southern Alps), or get pampered in the elaborate and opulent spa. Since you’re in France, you should do a lot of eating and drinking. Terre Blanche makes it easy with four restaurants that serve fresh local dishes and superb wines (the rosés are especially excellent). Finally, retire to one of the elaborately homey villas scattered among the pine trees, where you’ll find seclusion and every contemporary comfort. It’s like having your own private Provence.

A COUNTRY PORT

IMAGE BY BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY

BLACKBERRY FARM, a stylishly pastoral resort at the

foothills of the Smoky Mountains in eastern Tennessee, has been a favorite American destination for generations.

Along with the comfortable cottages, award-winning food, and vast number of activities offered at Blackberry Farm, food, beverage and wine director Andy Chabot has assembled a commanding collection of 8,500 wines. The rare vintages include 25 madeiras and 20 ports. Chabot introduces guests to these notable after-dinner wines with flights: side-by-side tastings of three, such as the 1834, 1863 and 1875 madeiras, or ruby, tawny and white ports. For the true port connoisseur Chabot suggests VV from Niepoort (released only twice in the history of the company, just 999 bottles of this tawny port were produced), which he describes as “an elegant way to ease out of the evening.”

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world scene ON THE WATERFRONT

This summer, experience the great outdoors at Miami’s Viceroy Hotel. For evenings there’s Fifty, a new rooftop indoor/outdoor lounge perched atop the 50th floor. Recline on chaise lounges or hang out at the bar and private pool and stare at the stars (or the city lights). During the day, head for the 15th floor and make a splash in the 300-foot infinity pool (Florida’s longest), an 80-person hot tub (the world’s largest) and a wading pool, which together add up to a water complex the size of a football field.

PICTURING THE WILD WEST

For more than a century, cowboys and cowgirls have gathered at the Cheyenne Frontier Days to compete at the rodeo, dance the two-step and recreate the Old West. There’s also an art show. This summer more than 60 of the country’s contemporary artists celebrate America’s frontier past—its culture, its magnificent scenery and the western way of life—in paintings, sculptures, wood and alabaster carvings, and Navajo weavings. The Cheyenne Frontier Days Western Art Show begins with a preview, followed by a reception at the Wyoming Governor’s Mansion. A western dinner and cocktails are served throughout the evening while the sale takes place, and guests dance the night away to the sounds of a live band.

M

EASY RIDER

ission Motorcycles has recently introduced the Mission RS, an innovative and high-performing electric motorcycle. Merging stunning looks with state-of-the-art technology, the Mission RS has a 120 kW (160 hp) electric motor integrated with Mission’s InfiniteDrive, which offers control and performance levels never before seen in any electric vehicle. The result: a pure motorcycle experience. Marchesini competition-legal and race-spec forged magnesium wheels are included in the optional GP Package, making the Mission RS ready to compete on the world stage. Production of the Mission RS is limited to 40 editions; naturally, each bike purchased is hand-delivered within North America.

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The Slowear family of brands offers you the best in terms of fitting, fabrics and finishings.

Slowear clothes are designed to live longer.

Enjoy Slowear.

TROUSERS

at your service CLOSET CLEANING

EXPERTISE

PICTURE PERFECT

In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.

Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising them on all clothing and accessory matters. They are willing to go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll even take a trip to your home or office to give you a personal closet consultation, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe.

Trust our professional sales associates to put together the ultimate outfit and coordinate you from head to toe. To alleviate confusion when you get home, we will happily photograph your ensembles, providing a catalogue you can refer to time after time.

BUTTON UP

GIFT CARDS

COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS

A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like to see you looking your best, down to the details.

A Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift that always fits!

Our gift cards are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift card up and ship it to the recipient for you!

In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all of our clothing.

Down to the detail of the stitching, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our onsite team of world-class tailors is ready to assure that you always bring home a perfect fit.

SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT.

COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP

CLOTHING DONATIONS

We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.

Service is important to us, not only in our store, but also in our community. We will help you clear out those unwanted items that have been cluttering up your closet, while providing for a good cause. All discarded items will be donated to a local charity — we will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS

BY APPOINTMENT

Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your shopping experience.

Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will pre-select a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, placing the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future. Call our stores for more information.

It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable sales associates who help and guide you.

You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.

We do not learn for the school, but for life