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J>; B7D=K7=; E< <7I>?ED Is it true, the age-old saying that “clothes make the man” (or woman)? Perhaps not entirely... but in our humble opinion, they help a lot! Just as a picture is worth a thousand words, the style and quality of your clothing speaks volumes about you... Your clothing and accessory choices and how you put them together speak of your personality, your level of sophistication and how you want the world to see you. Your clothing influences the jobs you attain, the friends you attract and most importantly, affects how you feel about yourself. This season, we bring you magnificent new creations from the world’s top fashion houses. We look forward to helping you express yourself with inimitable style! With hugs,
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J>; I;9ED: I;7IED ?D EKH H;DEL7J;: IJEH;I It has been a very exciting year, settling into our newly renovated “homes” in San Francisco and Palo Alto since our Grand (Re)Openings in late 2012. As would be expected in any home, at the Townhouse, the women have taken over the first floor, where they now enjoy designer clothing, jewelry, drinks and lots of laughs. Meanwhile, the men have been having a grand time taking over the top floors, enjoying a quicker ride thanks to our second elevator, and discovering an unsurpassed selection of designer men’s suits, sportswear and accessories (as well as the scotch bar at the Penthouse). Come join the fun!
pendant from the kwiat vintage collection
Wilkes Bashford
FEATURES
375 Sutter Street
2 Welcome Letter 6 History Lesson: Colorful Tales of Townhouses Past 26 Tyler’s Picks 27 Embracing the Social Media Revolution 62 Q&A: Todd Reed 68 Guide to St. Barths 82 Q&A: Nancy Gonzalez 104 Profile: PT01
450 Stanford Shopping Center
FASHION
San Francisco 415.986.4380
Palo Alto 650.322.7080 RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Wilkes Bashford CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell-Namdar MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Tyler Mitchell EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle
16 Friends & Trends 24 4 Must-Watch Fashion Documentaries 28 Articulate Dressing 63 The Report: Jewelry Trends 72 Log House of Style 84 There’s Nothing Basic About It 92 6 Must-Haves for the Man on the Move 96 Outerwear Then… And Now!
PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPY
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones
DEPARTMENTS 8 Happenings 15 Trunk Shows & Events 70 World Scene 94 Food: America’s French Farm Boy 106 Tech: In Full Swing 108 At Your Service
CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES
FOR
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CLAIMS,
UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
COVER: Akris
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9EBEH<KB J7B;I E< JEMD>EKI;I F7IJ$$$ @EI;F> 97BB7>7D" 7D EMD;H E< J>; >?IJEH?9 8K?B:?D= J>7J ?I DEM M?BA;I 87I><EH:" ED ?JI ¾M?B: M;IJ¿ >?IJEHO$ The following is excerpted from a letter Joseph Callahan sent to Russ Mitchell, recalling the history of the building: “When I acquired the building in the fall of 1980, via an exchange by one of my Santa Clara County partnerships, the long-term tenant on the first and lower levels was a Hofbrau restaurant. At the time, there was a mezzanine on three sides of the first floor. Several of the walls had travel posters on them, which were pretty cool. “Seeing the old photos you sent brought back some entertaining memories about my early efforts to redevelop the property. When I acquired it, the second floor tenant was Yum’s Massage Parlor, operated by a retired Korean War army sergeant and his Korean wife. His lease had a provision for termination, which I exercised. He requested a visit to his office in the shop, which I accepted. When I arrived, the two of them were at their desks and I sat in a seat opposite them. He had a 1911 45-caliber pistol prominently displayed on the desk. I informed him I had one at home, my carry weapon from the boats in ’Nam, was a shot expert (a badge awarded based on score) and would be happy to have a little shoot-off with him at a range. Ultimately, we were able to resolve the termination in a reasonably friendly fashion. “The second floor tenant next door,
known as the Sutter Theater, showed dirty movies, and was an early version of the famous Mitchell’s Theater (no relation I’m sure) in San Francisco, complete with lap dancers, etc. My objective was to relocate Wilkes Bashford’s women’s store to the lower level, first, and second floors. I didn’t think the theater was a beneficial occupancy for that objective. I called the owner/operator and made an appointment to visit him. It turned out he was a garrulous old Italian guy. He claimed he was a retired member of the Chicago branch of the mafia and had been given the business as consideration for his long service to the mob. He had a
long-term lease with the trust that owned the property. After many entertaining and fascinating conversations, I finally got him to agree to sell the lease to my partnership, enabling me to terminate that occupancy as well. Ultimately Wilkes Bashford’s women’s department took occupancy as planned in the fall of 1983. “The photos jogged my memory of a property I’ve actually enjoyed for years and continue to be very attached to. “The Mitchells’ reorganization of the property takes it to a potential level I’ve thought about in the past, but couldn’t achieve. I believe the effort will lead to great success.”
2013 H.Stern速 | www.hstern.net
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
MULTIPLE BASHES TO CELEBRATE WILKES’ 80TH The three-tiered birthday celebration began with a charity event held at the Palace Hotel to benefit the refurbishment of the historic Marines’ Memorial Theatre. Wilkes’ life-long friend, Mayor Willie Brown, honored him with a toast and a birthday cake shaped like a top hat, complete with one candle representing a remarkable life of 80 years. We all wish him many more to come. San Francisco “movers and shakers” including Charlotte Schultz and and her husband, former Secretary of State George Schultz, current San Francisco Mayor Ed Lee, Minority Leader of the House of Representatives Congresswoman Nancy Pelosi, Ann Getty, and many others gathered together to celebrate this true San Francisco legend.
, u o y o t y a d h t r i B .. s Happy e k l i W dear
The Garden Court at The Sheraton Palace Hotel; former Secretary of State George Schultz, Congresswoman Nancy Pelosi and Mayor Willie Brown; George Schultz and his wife Charlotte with Wilkes Palace Hotel photos courtesy of Michael Mustacchi Photography/Marines’ Memorial Theatre
Mayor Ed Lee and his wife Anita with Wilkes; longtime best friends Wilkes and Willie; Beach Blanket Babylon wowing the crowd; Major General Mike Myatt honoring Wilkes; Let’s all toast the guest of honor!
THE CELEBRATION CONTINUED...AND CONTINUED...
Surprise celebration; Wilkes’ dog Duchess waits politely for a piece of birthday cake.
Wilkes Bashford clients were invited to drop by the store to share a glass of Champagne to toast the ever-dapper Birthday Boy, and join in the important celebration. And to end the day, the Mitchell Family and the entire Wilkes Bashford staff surprised Wilkes at his favorite venue, the Starlight Room on the 21st floor, surrounded by a magnificent view of his favorite city, San Francisco.
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
ISAIA FASHION AT WILKES BASHFORD What an amazing night! Guests gathered in the Penthouse at Wilkes Bashford San Francisco to catch a glimpse of the latest Isaia creations, hang out with their associates and enjoy fun and foosball all night. A percentage of proceeds from the evening benefited the Steven D. Cannata Scholarship Fund. Thanks to all who attended!
WILKES BASHFORD HONORED WITH AWARD The San Francisco Museum and Historical Society honored Wilkes Bashford with their Standing Ovation Award: San Francisco Style on April 18th. Jim Lazarus, President of the Board of Trustees for the San Francisco Museum and Historical Society, presented the award to Mr. Bashford for contributing to the city’s cultural heritage. The organization said that “San Francisco’s elite have depended on Wilkes Bashford to keep them fashionably attired since 1966... and it has made him an icon of stylish living in a city of stylish people.” The benefit dinner and silent auction were held at the Old Mint in San Francisco.
Jim Lazarus presenting the award, a replica of the original Museum and Mint. The award was given on the anniversary of the 1906 San Francisco earthquake.
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE! RE!! RE RE!
HHAPPENINGS HA HAP APPPE APP PPPEN ENI EN NIN ING NGS GSS
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’S SUMPTUOUS STYLE
Wilkes Bashford, Becca Prowda and CEO and founder of Tipping Point Daniel Lurrie; Kate Harbin, Douglas Dirken, guest, Tyler Mitchell; luncheon guests enjoy shopping; models present fashions
Wilkes Bashford and Brunello Cucinelli partnered for April luncheons in San Francisco and Palo Alto to coincide with Cucinelli fall 2013 trunk shows. Tipping Point, a San Francisco-based charity serving low-income families in the Bay Area by finding and funding groups/organizations that share in their passionate cause, was the recipient of a percentage of sales from the San Francisco event. The Palo Alto event was a seated luncheon with a fashion presentation by Brunello Cucinelli’s Andrea Simnowski, who offered trend notes and styling advice as models walked the runway.
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M?BA;I M;B9EC;I B7DL?D MEC;D¿I H;7:O#JE#M;7H" 799;IIEH?;I C;D¿I 9EBB;9J?EDI Lanvin, Paris’ oldest remaining couture house, was founded by designer JeanneMarie Lanvin in 1889. From its creation, Lanvin has been known for ribbons, embroidery, and “robes de style,” dresses made of rich fabrics such as silk taffeta and velvet and worn by both Hollywood starlets like Marlene Dietrich and Romanian and Italian royalty. Israeli designer Alber Elbaz, who learned his craft at Geoffrey Beene, Guy Laroche and Yves Saint Laurent, took over the storied house in 2001, reinventing it for a more youthful audience. Elbaz’s signature Grecian draping and lavish embroidery are favorites of stars like Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Sofia Coppola. The award-winning designer brings an understatedly sexy, yet feminine touch to all his pieces. Lucas Ossendrijver, creative director for Lanvin Homme since 2006, works closely with Elbaz to execute his vision of creating a “wardrobe for men” in keeping with the vision of the house’s founder. We are thrilled to be introducing Lanvin women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and men’s collections at both Wilkes Bashford stores this fall!
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P RAT ES I © 2013
PH OTO: E MI LIO BIANC HI
(415) 291 9480
N E W YO R K
PA LM BEAC H
BAL H A RBOUR
CHI CAG O
B O STO N
HO U STO N
DA L L A S
LOS ANG ELES
SAN FR ANCISCO
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
RUN FOR THE ROSES FUNDRAISER
Silent auction art piece; admiring precious jewelry; Wilkes Bashford’s own Hess Rouhafza; cocktails are served; Square Peg models
Simone Coxe and Marcus McCalister
A VIP reception and fashion show brought guests to Wilkes Bashford, Palo Alto, in May for the Square Peg Foundation’s Annual Fundraiser. The charity established the Square Peg Ranch, a rare and special place, to provide an adaptive riding program that brings together rescued and re-trained horses and special needs and at-risk children and youth. A fashion show with Square Peg models wearing the latest fashions from Wilkes Bashford created a warm and meaningful addition to the cocktails and hors d’eouvres served to the crowd of chic guests and associates.
Photos courtesy of Kevin Stokes
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
HAPPENINGS
FALL 2013
TRUNK SHOWS & EVENTS
9/9-14 9/12-13 9/14 9/19 9/20 9/20-21 9/20-21 9/21 9/21 9/21-22 9/21-22 9/26 9/27 9/27-28 9/28 9/29 10/3 10/4 10/4-5 10/4-5 10/5 10/7-12 10/9-12 10/11-12 10/11-12 10/14-16 10/17-18 10/17-19
STORE BLACK + BLUE WEEK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF/PA SYLVA & CIE TRUNK SHOW & PA . . . . . . . . . . . . SF SYLVA & CIE TRUNK SHOW & PA . . . . . . . . . . . . PA KATHLEEN DUGHI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . PA KATHLEEN DUGHI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . SF BRIONI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF GRAVATI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF H STERN TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA W. KLEINBERG TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF BRIONI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA JOHN LOBB TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . PA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . SF POMELLATO TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . SF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . PA AARON HENRY TRUNK SHOW & PA . . . . . . . . . . PA FINAMORE TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA COOMI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA ISAIA TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF FINAMORE TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF SWS POP-UP SHOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA KITON TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF OSCAR DE LA RENTA FURS TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . PA OSCAR HEYMAN TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA YOSSI HARARI TRUNK SHOW & PA . . . . . . . . . . . SF OSCAR DE LA RENTA FUR FALL TRUNK SHOW . . . . SF YOSSI HARARI TRUNK SHOW & PA . . . . . . . . . . . PA
10/17-20 10/18-19 10/24-25 10/25 10/25-26 10/26 10/26 10/29-30 10/30-11/2 11/1-2 11/7-8 11/15-16 11/21-22 11/22 11/23 11/23 12/6-7 12/12-13 12/14 12/19 12/19 12/20 12/20 12/21 12/21 11/5-6 11/7
STORE KITON TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA SARTORIA PARTENOPEA TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . SF OSCAR HEYMAN TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . SF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW. . . . . SF ISAIA TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . PA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW . . SF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW. . . . . PA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW . . PA MICHAEL KORS SPRING RUNWAY TRUNK SHOW . . SF COOMI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA SYLVA & CIE TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . SF SYLVA & CIE TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . PA COOMI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA AARON HENRY TRUNK SHOW & PA . . . . . . . . . . PA KATHLEEN DUGHI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . SF KATHLEEN DUGHI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . PA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . SF H STERN TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW. . . . . . . . . . . . PA PAMELLA ROLAND TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . SF PAMELLA ROLAND TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . PA PA=PERSONAL APPEARANCE
FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF EVENTS, GO TO
WILKESBASHFORD.COM
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1. Roseanna 2. Veronica Beard 3. Paul Morelli 4. Rag & Bone 5. Todd Reed 6. Roseanna
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We’re black & blue, ’cause we fell for you. Black & blue, we’re in love with you... we’re falling black & blue...
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1. Chloé 2. Penny Preville 3. Paule Ka 4. Rag & Bone 5. Pucci 6. Vince 7. Penny Preville 4
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2 1. AG Jeans 2. Canada Goose 3. Brunello Cucinelli 4. J Brand 5. Arc’teryx
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2 1. Brunello Cucinelli 2. Brunello Cucinelli 3. Raffi 4. Billy Reid
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ANGELA CUMMINGS
ASSAEL the most magnificent pearls in the world
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* CKIJ#M7J9> <7I>?ED :E9KC;DJ7H?;I DE <7I>?ED?IJ7¿I H;F;HJE?H; ?I 9ECFB;J; M?J>EKJ I;;?D=$$$ Before there was Anna Wintour, there was Diana Vreeland, often referred to as ‘The High Priestess of Fashion.” The visionary editor helped shape the fashion and social :?7D7 LH;;B7D:0 trends of the midJ>; ;O; >7I 20th century... JE JH7L;B discovering models (&'' ., c_dkj[i including Lauren Bacall and Twiggy, designers like Oscar de la Renta and Diane von Furstenberg, and informing Manolo Blahnik that he should design shoes. The Eye Has to Travel reveals the wonderfully imaginative, if often over-the-top, editor with a breathtaking joie de vivre. The consensus is clear: there has never been anyone like Diana Vreeland. She was utterly demanding of the people she worked with, but she had an incredible work ethic and produced some of the most fantastical, beautiful images in magazines. She first worked as an editor at Harper’s Bazaar, largely pioneering a job that had previously been filled by somewhat frivolous
society ladies. As editor at Bazaar, and later editor-in-chief of Vogue, Vreeland traveled to the most exotic locations around the world with photographers like David Bailey and Richard Avedon. Vreeland had no formal fashion education, yet she gained an extensive knowledge of history and culture through her own study of fashion. Diana helped expand the influence of the ’60s “mod style” that cropped up in London by photographing the trendiest models, rock stars and celebrities. After she was fired from Vogue, Vreeland accepted a job at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She revamped the entire collection, pulling items out of the archives to create opulent fashion exhibits each year. Each exhibit was accompanied by an equally extravagant party on opening night, which became one of New York’s premier social events. The Eye Has to Travel provides a close look at the epic career of an icon, sharing some little-known details about her life. Overall, nothing entirely shocking or groundbreaking is revealed, but with Diana’s booming voice and fierce declarations, The Eye Has to Travel is a very entertaining experience.
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Valentino: The Last Emperor brings us into the rarefied world of legendary couturier Valentino Garavani, chronicling the events that lead to his decision to retire after 45 years. L7B;DJ?DE0 J>; It explores B7IJ ;CF;HEH Valentino’s career, (&&. during which he /, c_dkj[i dressed such fashion icons as Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, and his fascinating 50-year relationship with romantic and business partner Giancarlo Giammetti. We see the designer in action, creating a white gown that came to him in a dream as seamstresses painstakingly hand-sew on sequins and make changes until his vision is finally realized. Woven in are news clips depicting the evolution of an industry that would no longer accommodate the grand tradition in which Valentino and the greats of his era practiced their craft. Little by little, investors gain control of his company. The real-time narrative follows the preparations for a grand retrospective of Valentino’s work for his 45th anniversary in 2008, at the Ara Pacis Museum, followed by dinner at the Temple of Venus and an aerial ballet, an event unmatched in its grandeur. This film is as engaging a story as it is sumptuous to watch, filled with exquisite gowns and beautiful people.
It’s a sad moment when Valentino tells the press, “The celebration was unrepeatable. And so I have decided it is the right moment to leave the world of fashion. As the English say, I would like to leave when the party is full.” The worthwhile, though uneven, The Tents chronicles the evolution of Fashion Week at Bryant Park, positioning New York as a global fashion capital among the ranks of Paris and J>; J;DJI Milan. In 1993, the (&'( Council of Fashion ./ c_dkj[i Designers of America (CFDA), led by Fern Mallis, identified the centralized location that soon drew worldwide attention. Before Bryant Park, fashion shows were held in nightclubs and other scattered spaces, where the shows quickly outgrew their venues. The atmosphere was chaotic and unprofessional. The tents at Bryant Park were a triumphant, groundbreaking solution, solidifying New York’s fashion scene. Designers such as Donna Karan and Zac Posen, as well as top fashion editors, are interviewed, recalling the excitement and glamour of attending shows in the tents. While there is a twinge of nostalgia as Fashion Week prepares to move to Lincoln Center, most of the people interviewed are optimistic due to the cultural significance of Lincoln Center. While worth watching for the historical information and “eye candy” of runway footage, the documentary lacks a thematic thread. The brief emotional discussions of 9/11 and Alexander McQueen’s suicide seem out of place with the rest of the film. Bill Cunningham New York is an inside look at the 82-yearold New York Times photographer who spots trends by shooting anything that catches his eye on the city’s bustling 8?BB 9KDD?D=>7C streets and social D;M OEHA scene. The Bill that (&'' comes through, riding /& c_dkj[i everywhere on a Schwinn bike with his Nikon camera, is an
immensely humble and affable man with a unique talent. Today, with countless fashion blogs and the celebrity pop culture craze that often dominates fashion magazines, Bill, with his conventional camera and file cabinets full of negatives, appears both endearing and refreshing. Cunningham, who charmingly spent most of his life in a tiny flat without a kitchen or private bathroom in the (now converted to offices) Carnegie Hall Artist Studios, has been photographing New York’s street style for almost 50 years. He has become a darling of the New York social scene, the only member of the press invited to Brooke Astor’s 100th birthday party. Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of
Vogue, candidly admits, “We all get dressed for Bill.” While he has developed close friendships with many of his subjects, most know little about his personal life. The film reveals a man who began his career as a hatmaker, lives alone, is obsessed with his work and “has never had the time” for a romantic relationship. Cunningham’s passion for clothes is evident throughout. Commenting on the notion that some think fashion is unimportant, he said, “Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life. To do away with fashion would be like doing away with civilization.” Bill Cunningham New York is a fascinating and uplifting depiction of the man behind the lens. — Andrew Mitchell-Namdar
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87H 7=H?9EB; ?DJ;=H?JO E< >EC;#=HEMD BE97B ?D=H;:?;DJI FBKI EB:# <7I>?ED;: 87HJ;D:?D= ;GK7BI 7D 7M;IEC; :?D?D= ;NF;H?;D9;$ My wife Stephanie and I recently moved down to where SOMA meets the Mission in San Francisco. We originally wanted a bigger space to entertain in, but were drawn to this area for its culinary culture and cool vibe. The neighborhood is exploding with new restaurants and bars and I wanted to share our favorite find (so far) with you. It’s called Bar Agricole and opened in August of 2010. Bar Agricole means “Farm Bar” in French, but don’t let the name fool you: it’s a full-on restaurant. Its owners are bartenders at heart and originally had the objective of bringing San Francisco a watering hole that served cocktails the way they used to be served, before all the mass-liquoring with cheap ingredients and umbrellas. They grow all of their herbs on site and make their own bitters in house. All of their spirits are “small batch” and the owners have been to the distilleries and know the producers of everything they serve. They refuse to call themselves “mixologists” as the word is
overused, but they won’t deny that they are damn good bartenders. They have designed their own (almost laboratorystyle) cocktail glasses and still chip a huge ice block for massive cocktail cubes. Their specialty cocktail list is about 12 deep and all are incredible... my favorites are the Brown Derby and the Bourbon Old Fashioned. With this level of integrity towards their drinks, it’s no wonder that Bar Agricole has also turned into one of the most impressive restaurants now in San Francisco. All the food they serve is organic and local, and all of the butchering is done in house. When asked what kind of food Bar Agricole serves, the owners will say “ingredient driven.” This means the menu changes almost daily. The term “farm to table” sums up Bar Agricole perfectly. The flavors and inspirations all come from Northern California. All of their wines are certified organic.
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The space, built in 1910, was one of the first corrugated metal buildings in San Francisco, originally an annex to the Jackson Brewery. Unsurprisingly, the owners now have the building LEED Certified as green and rated “platinum,” the highest level. Bar Agricole has the best outdoor dining of any restaurant I’ve seen in San Francisco. Even on the chilliest evenings, heat lamps keep the temperature perfectly regulated. Portions are mediumsized and the pricing is moderately expensive, but worth every dime. Everything they touch at Bar Agricole is of the utmost quality and integrity, which makes it easy for me to share and recommend it to all of our great clients and friends of Wilkes Bashford. I’ve been a couple dozen times and haven’t been disappointed yet! Bar Agricole, 355 11th St., San Francisco, CA 94103, (415) 355-9400
WILKESBASHFORD.COM & FACEBOOK & TWITTER & INSTAGRAM...
EMBRACING THE SOCIAL MEDIA REVOLUTION! With the surge of digital and social media, Wilkes Bashford has embraced the revolution! Facebooking a shoe or bag of the week, tweeting from events, instagramming shots of new trends and party pics: we are constantly sharing and exchanging information and ideas in virtual communities and networks.
SOCIAL MEDIA
Join the conversation via Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.
These highly interactive platforms are the new way to CONNECT â&#x20AC;Śthey are the new rules of engagement! JOIN THE CONVERSATION! Like us! Facebook.com/WilkesBashford Follow us! Twitter.com/WilkesBashford Instagram.com/WilkesBashford
For events and happenings, visit wilkesbashford.com
fall 20 13
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?< 9BEJ>;I 9EKB: J7BA$$$ They would speak of your personality, your mood, how successful you are. Sending messages that affect your business life, friendships and relationships. This season, we encourage you to explore your voice through fashion. (And weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here to help you find it!)
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING: WENDY MCNETT
VAL E N TI N O
Shown on front cover: AKRIS
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bold enough to make a statement that is utterly iconic in pieces that are strong,confident,timeless
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7 8EKB:;H :;I?=D;H M?J> 7 8EB: KD?GK; J7A; ED :;I?=D$ >em Z_Z W Xeo \hec 9ebehWZe X[Yec[ W `[m[bho Z[i_]d[h5 I was born in North
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Carolina and moved to Colorado when I was 15, via Maryland and Arizona. I look at myself more as a designer than a jewelry designer, though the bulk of what I design is jewelry. I had been working as a leathersmith in fashion and was asked to add silver to a design. I worked with a silversmith and became fascinated with making silver jewelry and started soldering and setting stones. I loved that it was quick, gratifying, beautiful and that people connect with it.
and custom design has become a big part of our business. Of course, I also have signature designs, like my bands, that people want again and again, but each has its own character.
>em _i meha_d] _d 8ekbZ[h5 I need mountains and nature. I have a great factory, designed by Michael Moore, and love the culture at my company. We have all glass walls, are very collaborative with family-style meals, parties... everyone feels connected.
:[iYh_X[ meha_d] m_j^ j^[ C_jY^[bbi <Wc_bo e\ Ijeh[i$ We’ve been there since fall M^Wj [bi[ Ze oek Yh[Wj[5 I’m a pastry chef; I love to cook. It’s a different way to connect with people.
M^Wj _dif_h[i oekh meha5 Inspiration is a funny thing. I’m more taken by experience. By anything that grabs my attention... the way the rocks line up, an uncomfortable tension, anything interesting or beautiful. How an energy makes me feel. I want my work to get people excited. I’m more into the emotion than the physical object.
>em _i oekh `[m[bho kd_gk[5 I use material that no one in the world gets. I helped discover rough diamonds, which have more of a character-driven value. I’m a designer and artist to the core; I don’t duplicate pieces.
2012. We love Jennifer [buyer Jennifer Farrington]. She was a great entrée into the company. We’re excited to be a part of that family. I love being in a retail environment, and the experience of interacting with the clients means everything to me. It’s been good timing, and a good fit wth good people!
//////THE ///////THEREPORT: REPORT: JEWELRY TRENDS by Mitchells Family of Stores Fine Jewelry & Watch Buyer, Jennifer Farrington
Mix a link into your look! This classic jewelry motif is in with a vengeance, updated in a variety of metals, stones, shapes and sizes. Great on their own or for layering with cuffs or pendants!
handpicked selections from the most sought after and exciting FINE jewelry designers today!
Clockwise, left to right: 18k rose gold large link bracelet with Boulder Opal by Irene Neuwirth: 19k yellow, white and green gold and diamond Arbor link necklace by Aaron Henry; 18k yellow gold and diamond Aladdin link necklace by Jamie Wolf; 18k yellow gold bracelet with raw diamond cubes and white brilliant cut diamonds by Todd Reed; Sterling silver link bracelet with raw diamond bead by Todd Reed; 18k yellow and white gold and diamond large Embrace link bracelet by Aaron Henry
STATEMENT NECKLACES
Channel your inner Cleopatra or Nefertiti... with a bold and dramatic bib or cuff... making a statement as unforgetable as you are!
one-of-a-kind collectible pieces make a signature statement that is your own.
Top to bottom: 18k yellow gold and silver one-of-a-kind necklace with rose cut diamonds and raw cubes by Todd Reed; 18k rose gold oneof-a-kind necklace set with mixed shaped labradorite by Irene Neuwirth.
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Clockwise, from top left: 18k yellow gold and emerald engraved locket by Emily & Ashley; Zoe Chicco 14k yellow gold “love” necklace; 18k rose gold & cognac diamond initial pendant by Nam Cho; 18k yellow gold ID bracelets with Rainbow Moonstones & diamond pavé and with diamonds & turquoise, by Irene Neuwirth; 18k white gold, sapphire and diamond chain inital bracelet by Nam Cho
Expressing yourself with initials, names of loved ones and words is a fun and feminine trend in designer jewelry... the more creative the better! Even ID bracelets are back (like you’ve never seen them!)
HANGING FROM THE
chandelier Be it a bold necklace or enchanting chandelier earrings, statements are in! Fun and flirty, we’ll help you choose a chandelier that’s right for you.
Clockwise from far left: 18k yellow gold and Tsavorite earrings from the Brillante Collection by Paolo Costagli; 19th Century Old Mine Diamond Foliate Motif Pendant Earrings by Fred Leighton; 18k yellow gold and diamond 9 Drop Earrings by Irene Neuwirth; round and pear shape diamond and round emerald chandelier drop earrings by Graff
pieces worth their weight in gold to keep you toasty on a cool fall or winterÔs day.
A big gold cuff or chunky gold ring brings a seductive richness and warmth to your look. Add a special piece to your jewelry wardrobe that is as exciting as it is timeless and classic.
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Top:18k yellow gold “Double” hinged open cuff bracelet and “Double” ring by Caroline Ellen; Oro Rosa pink gold and diamond Avant Garde bracelet from the Oceana Collection by Mattia Cielo Bottom: Carved rock crystal and diamond cocktail ring, circa 1970; 18k rose gold and rose cut diamond Abstract Ring and 18k yellow gold Spirals Dome Ring by Tiffany & Co. circa 1960, all from Fred Leighton
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Just about anyone that knows me knows that St. Barths is quite simply my favorite place on this planet. The beaches, the food, the shopping, the sunsets... are all sublime. Below is a personal guide to my St. Barths favorites. And trust me, I’ve done the research! Catering: Maya’s To Go does amazing food that can be brought to a villa or on a beach picnic.
8;IJ 8;79>;I Saline is my favorite. Private and uncrowded, worth the walk. Gouverneur is breathtaking as well. Shell Beach for a drink at Do Brazil for sunset is amazing. Sitting on the large rocks is romantic and magical. Colombier is beautiful... Hard to get to but well worth it. A half-hour trek down, one hour back… it’s best reached by private boat. Note: My favorite beaches don’t have any chairs or amenities. I recommend bringing an Hermès towel.
8;IJ C;7BI L’Esprit is my favorite: simple, amazing food! Maya’s is a close runner-up to L’Esprit. Bonito is new and amazing. The ceviche is awesome; the view over the harbor is stunning. Le Restaurant des Pêcheurs at Le Sereneo has good fish with a beautiful location right on the beach. Great for lunch. Le Tamarin is great for lunch if you’re at Saline beach, as it is very close. Eden Rock is great for lunch. Nikki Beach is a perfect spot for lunch... at dinner it can be a bit noisy. Try to reserve the teak bed on the beach for lunch. Eat (and then nap) to the sounds of the ocean. Le Ti St. Barth (pictured above right) is the most fun on Friday and Saturday nights… Go late, around 9:30, as things get really fun around 11. Don’t be afraid to jump up on the table and dance… sounds crazy but it’s really fun.
Taiwana on Flamands Beach for crazy expensive, but unbelievable, lentil salad. If you like formal French dining (with a pricetag to match), I recommend Le Gaiac at Hôtel Le Toiny and Francois Plantation.
I>EFF?D= Bijoux de la Mer in Gustavia is a local jewelry designer that does amazing things with South Sea pearls. A must-stop. The small shops in St. Jean are less pricey than Gustavia and have some more casual, fun things.
799ECCE:7J?EDI We always stay in a villa. Villa Rentals: Wimco / St. Barths wimco.com Some favorites…. BAY, AMA, MCO and KAN (pictured below right). Hotels: Eden Rock is the best, and they also have villas you can rent. Le Sereno is tres chic as well.
C?I9;BB7D;EKI Beach chairs: If you want to rent them, the surf shop in St. Jean (on the road leading up to Saline, just before the coffee shop) offers them by the week or by the day.
Walking or Running: The Grand Fond area is beautiful and undisturbed. Go for a quiet walk in the morning or early evening. The beach is too rocky for swimming, but it is magical, and the sound of the ocean will take away your stress. The stretch from Le Toiny through Grand Fond is also great for running; it is the only semi-flat area on the island. Massage: Arnaud Daniel is amazing. He will come to villas or hotels. (590) 690 53 44 88 or arnofun@hotmail.com Glasses or Sunglasses: If you need sunglasses or prescription glasses, the shop opposite the airport has the best selection of both from around the world. Supermarket: Match supermarché is the best supermarket on the island. Creams: Institut Esthederm from the pharmacy near the airport (next to Maya’s To Go) is amazing sun cream that lets you tan but not burn. Driving: Can be treacherous on the island. Go slow and always get an automatic car... 4WD is necessary if it rains. Flight into St. Barths: It can be a little scary: you’ve been warned. But it’s only scary for 30 seconds.
world scene OPULENT ADVENTURES
S
ail off on luxurious explorations of two of the world’s most exotic locations: the Amazon River in Peru and Vietnam’s Mekong River. Aqua Expeditions offers three, four, or seven-day cruises on these two intriguing rivers, providing the opportunity for a variety of fascinating experiences, from visiting historic sites to piranha fishing. And they do it in great style. For the Amazon cruises, Aqua Expeditions provides either the 130-footlong M/V Aqua, or the 147-foot M/V Aria. Both custom-built ships have air-conditioned suites featuring sitting areas and picture windows with panoramic views. The M/V Aqua can accommodate 24 guests in 12 suites while the Aria has 16 suites with room for 32 guests, plus additional amenities such as an exercise room and an outdoor hot tub. Launching in 2014, the M/V Aqua Mekong is an extraordinary architect-designed ship with a spa, screening room, outdoor pool and 20 guest suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, all offering magnificent views of Vietnam and Cambodia.
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
KEEP ON DANCING
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IMAGE BY PAUL B. GOODE. FEATURED DANCERS LAURA HALZACK AND MICHAEL TRUSNOVEC
ince 1954, the innovative and sometimes controversial modern dance choreographer Paul Taylor has created 138 dances exploring a range of topics: life and death, love and sexuality, iconic moments in American history. These are set to music as diverse as medieval masses, baroque concertos, classical symphonies, Tin Pan Alley, and The Mamas and The Papas. Every season for the past 60 years the Paul Taylor Dance Company has toured the world, performing in over 500 cities in 62 countries. What better way to celebrate the diamond jubilee of this legendary company than by taking to the road again? In 2014, Paul Taylor will be presenting modern dance across America, from New York to San Francisco.
70
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s the year winds down, take a few days and disappear to Ananda in the Himalayas, a restored viceroy’s palace with a destination spa that focuses on India’s ancient arts of yoga, meditation and ayurveda. The new you is orchestrated by a team of qualified nutritionists, western and ayurvedic physicians, and spa therapists who create programs to meet individual goals. Concentrate on de-stressing, detox and cleansing, relaxation, anti-aging or weight and inch loss, all in a 24,000 square-foot facility with 24 treatment rooms, hydrotherapy facilities, a Beauty Institute, outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, steam rooms and a fully equipped fitness center. Fortunately, your stay doesn’t have to be all exercise and dieting. Between treatments, you can play golf, go white river rafting, or enjoy an elephant photo safari.
GRAND ITALIAN GROUNDS
A
ldo Filicori and Luigi Zecchini founded Filicori Zecchini coffee in Bologna in 1919. After nearly a century, the company is still guided by the founders’ families and remains loyal to a philosophy that merges artisan passion and technological innovation. Together, the careful selection of the highest quality green coffee and the specific roasting process produce the particular aroma and flavor that makes Filicori Zecchini so impressive. So much so that many of the company’s coffees have earned the Italian Espresso National Institute’s certification, a designation reserved for only the best blends. Available in over 30 countries around the world, Filicori Zecchini coffee has just recently reached American shores. Buongiorno tutti!
LET IT BEE
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here was a lot of buzz when bees recently checked into the InterContinental Hotels in Boston and New York. Yes, that’s right, bees. In keeping with the environmentally responsible trend among luxury hotels, the InterContinental’s green initiatives include the use of energy-efficient lighting, water conservation and recycling programs throughout the properties. On the roofs of these hotels, along with an herb garden, there will also be apiaries, attended by a traveling apiculturist (one who raises bees for honey). The hives are expected to produce 20 to 30 pounds of honey per year, which the hotels plan to bottle for gifts and amenities, use in cocktails and on special Honey Menus. Comb through the chef’s latest creations, including honeylacquered duck leg confit and honey almond madelines.
71
LOG
HOUSE
OF STYLE
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC
HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY
STYLING: WENDY MCNETT
Cover, On Him Coat, Blazer, Pullover & Pant: CORNELIANI On Her Vest & Turtleneck: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Skinny Jeans: VINCE Left Coat, Jacket Sweater, Shirt: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
A good book by a roaring fire. That first breath of cool, crisp air. Layers of cashmere, fur-trim and cozy vests. Embrace fall in fashions that are as luxurious as they are classic. “Cabin fever” never felt so good!
Jacket & Scarf: ETRO
Cable Sweater: CANALI Crewneck Sweater: RAG & BONE Pant: ETRO
As the days get shorter, the fabrics get richer, softer and more textural. Build drama with luxurious pieces that are as modern as they are classic.
Blazer, Shirt, Tie & Pant: Brunello Cucinelli
Shirt & Sweater: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Coat: CORNELIANI Pant: HILTL Shoe: ALLEN EDMONDS
Blazer: CANALI
Dress: MISSONI Jacket: BELSTAFF
Discover new wools. Have fun with quilts and knits. And remember... inside many of fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s warmest vests and jackets lies a fur lining!
Hooded Vest & Blouse: LORO PIANA
Shoes: G. BROWN
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J>; <7C;: >7D:87= :;I?=D;H 7D: >;H 8KI?D;II F7HJD;H%IED" I7DJ?7=E" ED FKH?JO E< L?I?ED 7D: IJ7O?D= 9BEI; JE J>;?H 9EBEC8?7D HEEJI$ >em Z_Z _j Wbb ijWhj5 M^Wj cWZ[ oek Z[Y_Z[ je Z[i_]d ^Wd]XW]i5 D=0 I grew up in Colombia and always wanted to do something I loved. I was looking to create something that came from inside. I started with belts and it ended up being handbags.
I=0 Her vision was pure and innocent. It came from an urge to create, not to be in fashion or make a luxury item. That’s what makes the product so special... The work had a clean beginning and has always been pure and fresh in what it is. Color comes naturally to her. Her designs come from the soul. It looks effortless, because it is.
>em Z_Z oek ijWhj meha_d] m_j^ [nej_Y ia_di WdZ Z[l[bef oekh i_]dWjkh[ ijob[5 D=0 I’ve always loved real and exotic materials, and crocodile was the most available to me in Colombia. I like challenges also. I feel a connection with the skins. Skins already have their own design. You have to communicate with them and keep that connection.
I consider my work to be a collaboration with nature. Now I work with all types of luxurious and exotic skins... lizard, python, even fur... anything precious from nature.
I=0 Her signature style evolved organically. For instance, it was impossible to get good metals in Colombia, which is why she began designing without hardware.
Oekh ijeho e\ ijWhj_d] W ]beXWb YecfWdo Wi W 9ebecX_Wd mecWd _i kd_gk[$ M^e Wh[ oekh \[cWb[ heb[ ceZ[bi5 D=0 I have so many... Frida Kahlo, Catherine The Great, Diana Vreeland, the Mexican soap opera star La Doña Maria Felix and Elizabeth Taylor are a few.
:e oek ^Wl[ W \Wleh_j[ f_[Y[ oek¿l[ Z[i_]d[Z5 D=0 One of my favorite bags is actually a sculpture that I collaborated on with artist Michele Oka Doner. It’s in the permanent collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. Another is the “Cristina Bag.” I designed it for my daughter as per her specifications for the ideal bag. It became one of my best sellers!
NANCY GONZALEZ FUN FACTS What is your favorite travel destination? Chivason Spa in Thailand What’s your favorite movie? Like Water for Chocolate and Frida What’s your favorite restaurant in New York Rosa Mexicano What are 5 things you can’t live without? Family, Biologique Recherche Elastine Pure, a freshly ground cup of Colombian coffee in the morning, The Books of Wisdom from The Bible, laughter and a time each day for silence and meditation
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¼ ED; E< CO <7LEH?J; 87=I ?I 79JK7BBO 7 I9KBFJKH; J>7J ? 9EBB78EH7J;: ED M?J> 7HJ?IJ C?9>;B; EA7 :ED;H$ ?J¿I ?D J>; F;HC7D;DJ 9EBB;9J?ED 7J J>; C;JHEFEB?J7D CKI;KC E< 7HJ¿I 9EIJKC; ?DIJ?JKJ;$½ :e oek ^Wl[ Wdo \Wleh_j[ ijeh_[i e\ Y[b[Xh_j_[i eh Z_]d_jWh_[i j^Wj YWhho oekh XW]i5 I=0 One of my favorites is Sofia Vergara. She is Colombian and I love that she makes a point of carrying our bags; she wears a Cristina. And today, my favorite fashion icon is Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser, wife of the Emir of Qatar. She only wears Nancy Gonzalez handbags and buys them retail, though they own Harrods. What makes her fascinating is that, as a Muslim, she covers her head and doesn’t show any skin, but she has still become a fashion icon. She has phenomenal style, yet is respectful of her roots.
M^o _i _j ie _cfehjWdj je oek j^Wj oek b_l[ WdZ meha _d 9ebecX_W5 D=0 I believe that one cannot be a true “original” without an “origin.” I had never even dreamed of having a global company. I’m very proud of my country and want to give back to my people. We make all of our handbags in Colombia. I employ mostly women who are heads of households and provide day care at my factory.
I=0 My mother never intended to
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become a sort of “goodwill diplomat” for Colombia, but we are proud of our country. We have become an international company, but don’t behave as one. We are very much still a Colombian company with global reach.
I=0 I would say when we became the only company to win the top ACE (Accessories Council) Award while we were the only designer nominated that creates in only one category (handbags) in one type of material.
M^Wj¿i j^[ X[ij j^_d] WXekj meha_d] je][j^[h5 I=0 As I’m in New York and her home base is Colombia, we’re very independent. We give each other space and are respectful of what each of us has to do. We treat it like a company, not like a family business. My mother designs, runs her factory and her production. When the collection arrives, I have no idea what’s coming. Then, it’s my job to sell what she’s designed. I manage the New York showroom, communications, advertising, etc. We have defined roles: it’s a true collaboration.
M^Wj¿i [nY_j_d] WdZ d[m \eh \Wbb5 D=0 I came up with a new technique: cutting crocodile into thread and creating a crocodile embroidery!
I=0 Also, we have a new bag this fall that is so luxe, but so understated. Utter simplicity, a dichotomy: a crocodile tote with sable.
THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOTHING BASIC ABOUT IT.
A classic suit can take you anywhere. Try these looks with a medium to dark gray suit in a loftier fabric. (Note the shorter, slimmer jacket and fitted trousers.) Here, 9 ways to wear it.
Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson
STILL A SUIT 2 LAID BACK 1 POWER PLAY
Everyone will know you mean business in a silk tie and a crisp white shirt.
Take off your tie and relax a little. A fun pocket square adds personality.
3 CREATIVE TYPE Colorful checks and a solid tie with texture are anything but boring.
THE JACKET 4 LAYERED LUXE When temperatures drop, add burgundy cords and a camel cashmere sweater to keep you warm all season.
5 CASUAL COOL Worn with dark denim, a striped sport shirt and sneakers give your jacket new life.
THE PANT 6 GOOD SPORT Sling a sweater over your shoulders for a preppy-casual vibe.
8 A BIT OF EDGE Replace your suit jacket with a leather moto style to really rock your workday (or weekend).
7 PATTERN PLAY Layer in graphic checks and plaids and your look will never fall flat.
MODEL: LEANDRO SOUZA, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILORING: JASON SANTIAGO. RING: PROPOSITION LOVE. WATCHES: TAG HEUER, PANERAI, BREITLING
9 TRADITION WITH A TWIST A knit tie and plaid sportcoat add texture, color and pattern to your basic gray trousers.
, CKIJ# >7L;I
7 Im[Wj[h \eh 7bb H[Wiedi A great neutral zip-up layers as well as it travels.
JOB;H C?J9>;BB
FOR THE
MAN ON THE MOVE F[h\[Yj F[WYeWj Warmth without bulk. Perfect for day or night, (casual) business or pleasure.
BWfjef 8W] If you take your laptop everywhere, take it in style.
Ijob_d¿ Ik[Z[ I^e[ Colored suede loafers add some kick to your look.
El[hd_]^j%=oc 8W] A great leather overnight bag will take you everywhere.
:h[ii[Z#Kf 9Wh]e FWdji Try casual pants in dressier fabrics like wool, wool flannel, cotton flannel, and textured cottons.
food
Daniel Boulud, right, with Tyler Shedden, taste testing in Toronto.
AMERICA’S FRENCH FARM BOY Chef Daniel Boulud’s dishes are haute but homey, and always from the heart. By Shira Levine
o eat a meal crafted by Daniel Boulud is to be dazzled with a full-sensory culinary experience. My epicurean evening took place in Toronto, at the James Beard award-winning chef’s latest restaurant project. Called Café Boulud (like its New York and Palm Beach counterparts), the fine dining hotspot is positioned within the glassy-chic Four Seasons Toronto, recently redone in exquisite style. The multi-cultural culinary Mecca already has its share of hip eateries, yet visitors and locals alike are hungry for a bite of Boulud. Dbar is the lobby bar and café, but it’s the mezzanine-level restaurant outfitted with Mr. Brainwash pop art pieces that has people talking. Indeed about the art (an unexpected pairing with French haute cuisine), but more about the equally jaw-dropping menu. My tasting began with octopus à la plancha followed by a British Columbian black cod persillade in a clam and parsley broth. My entrée, the duo of cumbra beef, consisted of a dry-aged strip loin alongside red wine-braised short ribs and spinach subric. The grapefruit givré — a frozen grapefruit shell filled with sorbet, grapefruit wedges and rose-flavored Turkish delight, crowned with fluffy threads of halvah and a torched sesame cracker — was a visual masterpiece that playfully juxtaposed textures and temperatures. As the man who invented the gourmet burger, Boulud naturally has ‘mad’ love for beef, and never strays far from the other three Bs: bacon, butter and brioche. I spoke with the master about his successes, his roots on the farm, and what he likes to cook with his daughter, Alix.
Is true fine dining a thing of the past? Fine dining is very much alive and kicking in the greatest cities of the world. But the definition, in many ways, has evolved.
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IMAGE BY CHRISTIAN HORAN
Art by Mr. Brainwash is a lively addition to the décor at Café Boulud. How do you define fine dining? It doesn’t have to be pompous or boring. Fine dining is exciting and rare. For me it can be a $2.50 [piece of] sushi or sashimi made with the highest-quality ingredients. Or going to Brooklyn for the best pizza made with local clams, local herbs, the perfect crust… while it might be casual, it can be fine dining. Of course it’s about the food, but it is also very much about the service, and then the ambiance. Fine dining is about living well and enjoying life.
I have lived and worked all my life for haute cuisine: the best of the best. It takes a lifetime to master and it’s still never enough.
These micro-scale restaurants seem to be more appealing to today’s foodies. This is the challenge for young chefs. They open a place with $100,000; it’s a shack, but they cook amazing food. Yes, it is fine cuisine, but the idea is to elevate the town with a fine restaurant. You don’t want a town with all the restaurants imitating one another.
“Fine dining is about living well and enjoying life.”
What is the universal thread that runs throughout your 14 restaurants?
What city’s food scene inspires you most?
Detail. I pay a lot of attention to service and training. Even though fine dining is becoming more casual, it is also more focused on details, more and better service, with more attention paid to making the customers feel at ease with the experience.
You’ve been living in the U.S. for many years; do you still consider yourself a French chef? When you're French you can’t take it out of you. I live in America, and I love America; my daughter was born here. But I am certainly French.
American foodies have embraced regional Italian cooking. Do you think you have been successful in spreading knowledge about French regional cuisines? Well, you tell me! I love all of it and I think it is fair to say people like my food. The cuisine regional — especially the specialties of cheese and charcuterie — is what has made me ‘stay French’ and feel so proud to cook French. Like many countries we also have the cuisine bourgeois: the food of the people. We have a history of cooking meals that are very elaborate yet very soulful. Then you have brasserie cooking for the big city; bistro is smaller scale and local. Lyon de bouchon is also very special: it’s the micro-scale restaurant where there is no choice on the menu because they serve you what they have made that day. It’s cooked with love.
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Copenhagen is really exciting. I lived there 32 years ago and I could see then that this place was going to be something amazing one day. I love their street food so much. I love the little skinny hot dog with the tiny bun! There is so much young Danish talent inspiring the culinary world with the way they are thinking about and making food. I also love Charleston, South Carolina. San Francisco and Chicago are longtime favorite food cities.
You grew up on a farm in France and weren’t always accustomed to fine dining. What do you make for a homecooked meal? I keep it really easy; I cook with my daughter sometimes. I live above Daniel so usually what I do is go down to the restaurant and grab a roast or a fish, and then on the spot propose something for us to make.
Can you envision making your own Jiro Dreams of Sushi film? Maybe Daniel Dreams of Butter? Not like that, but I am working on a documentary. It’s around a new cookbook I have coming out that celebrates 20 years of Daniel. It’s called My French Cuisine. It shows that I’m proud of my French identity and that no matter where I travel and what I experiment with, I still think French food is the best.
GETTY 1
THAT WAS THEN...
Outerwear was limited. Choices were few. But with todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s options, the modern man can leave his ill-fitting trench coat... in the trenches.
THIS IS NOW! Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson
2013 GUIDE TO OUTERWEAR
Lightweight Luxe The light lining takes you through a change of seasons.
Bold color & flawless fit pull double duty for work and weekends.
MODELS: CEDRIC, MITCH FERRIN @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT, JONATHAN RILEY @ FORD. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO.
Vests
PERFECT WITH YOUR FAVORITE SWEATER & CHINOS, VESTS PAIR JUST AS WELL WITH A SPORTCOAT & TIE.
2013 GUIDE TO OUTERWEAR
Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to mix textures, colors & patterns.
A pocket square adds pop.
Waterproof nylon & warm knits are ready for any weather.
Layering & Details TAKE A CUE FROM THE ITALIANS: LAYER UP WITH SLEEK SHIRTS & SWEATERS.
2013 GUIDE TO OUTERWEAR
Distressed fabrics look great with jeans.
Keep the length short for a modern casual vibe.
Double-Breasted GO CASUAL OR FORMAL WITH THESE SIMPLE TIPS.
Donegal fabric is dressy but cool.
Wide lapels emphasize strong shoulders.
A nipped-in waist keeps the look sleek.
profile
SMARTPANTS
around. Edoardo Fassino, whose family still privately owns and operates the company, serves as CEO and creative director. He manages a design team of nine, and is known to come into the office and start the day by saying, “I had a dream last night, and now I know what we need to do…” The team remains on the forefront, continuing to improve and change. What never changes is their dedication to “giving the pants big personality!” exclaims Maran. “In fact, all of our models have names so they are more interesting to talk about than ‘the gray pants’ or ‘the beige pants.’ Let’s face it: our target customers don’t need pants, so our challenge was to make the people want our pants.” And the challenge seems to have been met: PT01 is now available in the best shops across the U.S. and in 36 other countries. In the five years following its rebranding, the company’s profits increased five-fold. But it really sunk in for Maran at a trunk show earlier this year, where he recalls selling 15 pairs to one happy customer. “That was very telling: here was a 56-year-old normal, healthy man. He tried a pair on, looked in the mir-
PT01 just might make the world’s most perfect pair. By Jillian LaRochelle T, which stands simply for Pantaloni Torino, knows a thing or two about pants: its parent company, Cover 50, has been making them in Italy for more than 60 years. They started out producing all kinds of bottoms under an array of brand names, but in 2007, it was finally time to streamline. The company decided to refocus their energies on one luxury line, for which they would use only the finest fabrics and develop the best fits. In short, they set out to make the perfect pant. Though PT01 was a quick success in its home country of Italy, potential retail partners in the U.S. were initially skeptical. They told Mario Maran, general manager in charge of operations, marketing and strategic development, that another line of pants was the last thing they needed. But he was adamant: “This is not just another line of pants; these are the pants!” He believed that American men were ready for something new. “It’s true that there were a lot of brands making pants,” he explains, “but most had a more traditional, larger-cut leg. It was time for a better silhouette: not tight, but a little more proportionate on the leg.” And luckily, specialty retailers like us agreed. PT01 currently offers 15 models (Editor, High-Tech, LaRochelle, etc.) in 8 different fits (Regular, Slim, Skinny, etc.) which can be made in any of the brand’s 400 colors and fabrics (including denims, luxury cottons and Italian wools from Loro Piana). There’s a strong focus on functionality, quality construction, and of course, fit. Look for new fabrics and details each season, and try a pair on to see for yourself how PT01’s use of stretch fabrics make them some of the most comfortable pants
ror and immediately asked how many pairs we had in his size. I told him we had 15, and he bought every last one. He said they made him feel years younger. “And I knew then that we had achieved our goal.”
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tech
IN FULL SWING
Virtual data can help improve your physical game. By Christian Chensvold t a press conference following this year’s Masters Tournament, Tiger Woods was asked what he thought of 14-year-old golf phenom Tianling Guan. He credited golf apps that use high-speed video analysis for the success of today’s prodigies, who’ve grown up with laptops and smart phones as integral pieces of golf equipment. They’re accustomed to filming themselves, and more important, they’ve learned to analyze what they see. Whether it’s Konica Minolta’s SwingVision camera, which can break down Tiger’s swing into 18,000-frames-per-second slow motion on your TV screen, or a grainy cell phone clip of a high handicapper struggling to improve, technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing. But how many golfers are brave enough to uncover the naked truth of their faulty swings? “When people see themselves for the first time on video, they generally think about quitting golf,” laughs Chuck Quinton, founder of RotarySwing.com, an online instruction site. “But you can’t make a change without realizing exactly what you’re doing wrong. That may seem incredibly obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t know what their swing looks like.” Golf analysis took a huge leap forward in the mid-’90s,
Quinton says, when cameras capable of capturing high-speed athletics became smaller and more affordable than the TVsized cameras previously required. Improved camera technology, combined with analysis software that previously cost thousands of dollars but which is available today from a $5 app, means instructors can now measure just about everything and qualify cause and Technology has brought unprecedented effect in a student’s insight into the faulty swing. mechanics of the The most imporgolf swing. tant thing video analysis reveals, says Quinton, is a golfer’s impact position: golf’s so-called moment of truth. The number of faults that can lead to a poor impact position are myriad, and are all revealed under the ‘CAT-scan’ of golf analysis software. For a membership fee, RotarySwing.com lets golfers upload biweekly video clips for analysis by instructors, who write up what they’re seeing and suggest drills and changes. The workload, Quinton says, is bordering on overwhelming. His staff of 25 certified instructors shares the duties, with one full-timer devoted entirely to swing reviews. Most of RotarySwing.com’s students use the golf app by V1, which founder Chris Hart says is an indispensable tool in a
106
golfer’s perennial struggle to keep his sanity. V1 costs a mere $4.99 and uses a smart phone’s camera to record golf swings, which can then be analyzed with software that measures body angles and compares clips of good and bad shots side by side, all of which users can store in a virtual ‘locker room.’ Clips can also be uploaded directly to coaches for professional analysis (cost varies). The company is currently working on score tracking and shot analysis features that will allow golfers to hit a bucket at the range and get a full set of data on where their shots went, a far more reliable means of ball flight tendencies than short-term memory. This will be combined with a golfer’s performance during their rounds of play. “There’s what you do on the range and what you do on the course,” says Hart, “and we want to have it all in one spot from which you can get feedback.” That’s right: you’ll soon have a convenient portable database with stats on all your slices, shanks and missed two-foot putts. While apps are cheap and convenient, nothing compares to today’s indoor golf simulators, which combine virtual play on famous courses such as Pebble Beach with advanced analysis software and multiple camera angles. XGolf’s top-of-the-line laser-based system goes for about $65,000. About half of sales are to indoor golf facilities, the other half to private homes. The simulator allows users to get side-by-side swing compar-
isons with clips of their favorite pros. And a feature called On Course Training makes lessons more engaging. “A student practicing 96-yard wedge shots can have it set up as an approach shot on a specific hole at Pebble Beach,” explains XGolf’s manager of sales and business development Ryan D’Arcy. “They can see the results as the ball lands on different parts of the virtual green.” As with any other piece of technology, there are upsides and downsides. In golf there’s a common issue called ‘paralysis by analysis,’ the point at which the golfer has so many technical thoughts in his mind he can no longer trust his swing to the part of the subconscious that controls muscle movement. Obsessing over angles and positions on your smart phone at the range can be as bad as texting at the dinner table. “Once you begin to leverage video analysis, you have to learn when to close the door,” says Quinton. “Every golfer goes through paralysis by analysis at one time or another, and you need to be your own doctor and recognize the symptoms. [Relying on] video analysis can be a very slippery slope if you’re not careful.” In the same press conference in which he mentioned how much technology is helping the next generation of golfers, Tiger Woods talked about visiting Korea, where indoor golf simulators are extremely popular. New players hit on them exclusively and religiously for six to 12 months, he said, then head outdoors “and have perfect golf swings.” They all look the same, he noted, but maybe sameness is a fair trade-off for perfection.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING VIDEO ANALYSIS REVEALS IS A GOLFER’S IMPACT POSITION: GOLF’S SO-CALLED MOMENT OF TRUTH. 107
at your service CLOSET CLEANING
EXPERTISE
PICTURE PERFECT
In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.
Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising them on all clothing and accessory matters. They are willing to go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll even take a trip to your home or office to give you a personal closet consultation, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe.
Trust our professional sales associates to put together the ultimate outfit and coordinate you from head to toe. To alleviate confusion when you get home, we will happily photograph your ensembles, providing a catalogue you can refer to time after time.
BUTTON UP
GIFT CARDS
COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS
A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like to see you looking your best, down to the details.
A Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift that always fits! Our gift cards are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift card up and ship it to the recipient for you!
In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all of our clothing. Down to the detail of the stitching, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our onsite team of world-class tailors is ready to assure that you always bring home a perfect fit.
SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP
CLOTHING DONATIONS
We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.
Service is important to us, not only in our store, but also in our community. We will help you clear out those unwanted items that have been cluttering up your closet, while providing for a good cause. All discarded items will be donated to a local charity — we will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS
BY APPOINTMENT
Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your shopping experience.
Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will pre-select a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, placing the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future. Call our stores for more information.
It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable sales associates who help and guide you. You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.
www.brunellocucinelli.com
Our fathers have told us
W I L K E S BA S H F O R D F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 3