MIX Magazine April 2011 by Mix Magazine

April Ap pril ’11 11 Portland’s Portlands Magazine of Food + Drink

Cooking with the bike parts king 5 wines to drink now Belgian brew fest Roving cheese truck Sephardic dinner

THREE CHEFS RIFF ON ROAST BEEF

APRIL 2011

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TESTIMONIALS

am a high-end builder and was asked to select an agent for an estate sale. I know most of the ‘BIG GUNS’ in the local real estate scene and conducted an objective analysis with a numerical evaluation. I was not predisposed to any of the candidates. Terrie was a ‘head and shoulders’ WINNER and performed as predicted. She is the consummate professional, and a totally wired workaholic. Would I hire her again? In a heartbeat. ~ Dave S. – Estate Sale

f you want your house sold and sold fast, list with Terrie. She sold our house in 2½ months. She did what another company wasn’t able to accomplish in 2 years! She didn’t hold “Open House”, which we appreciated. She knows how to market the house to the right type of clients. She is PROFESSIONAL all the way, and her ofce staff was wonderful to work with as well. She even did her own photo shoot the day of the listing. We were very impressed. ~ Dorthe and Hans

orking with Terrie to sell a number of homes has been a pleasure; she is the most professional, inventive, TALENTED, and driven agent I have ever met. I had homes listed for over a year with no success - with agents who supposedly knew the local market. In both cases, even though the homes were out of her area, once Terrie took over the listing she moved them in under 5 months in slow markets. She made the sale easy for me and worked diligently to get the best offer and the VALUE possible. ~ Kay (Cannon Beach)

ome Decorated by Terrie ~ I followed Terrie’s advice for preparing the house for sale, and that, along with GREAT work from Terrie and her EXCELLENT marketing team, led to my house being sold in 10 days! I would denitely recommend Terrie to anyone looking for a professional, hard-working, savvy real estate agent who gets great results for her clients. ~ Joy

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e selected Terrie Cox to represent us based on her FABULOUS reputation as the undisputed leader in the Portland/Vancouver real estate market. Effortlessly, she navigated us through the entire purchase process. What most impressed us most, beyond her spot-on professionalism, was that she surrounds herself with rst rate people. Terrie, you made our DREAMS come true! ~ Rick & Gayle

ecause of Terrie’s relocation connections, the people interested in buying our home in Oregon sold their house in Texas in one day, which allowed them to write the offer to buy our home the same day. ~ Marv & Mary

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editor’s note Chefs cook because they love feeding people. Yes, creativity is a huge part of it, too. As is their own personal love of eating. But when you boil down all the reasons they can possibly give you, feeding people good food is always at the crux. Honestly, it’s no different for food editors and writers. At the risk of making a groan-worthy analogy, we’re like chefs, but with keyboards instead of sauté pans. Yes, we love being creative, crafting our prose and coming up with new takes on the same old story. But the best part — the part that gives us a reason and the

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nerve to face a blank screen and blinking cursor every day — is sharing our work with other people. Feeding your intellect is most definitely at the crux. So consider this issue something of a multicourse feast. We did our best to load it up with delicious discoveries to satisfy your curiosity. Did you know one of the premier bike component manufacturers in the world lives here in PDX — and that he’s a passionate, proselytizing gourmand? Did you know top round (that all-but-forgotten pedestrian cut) can make top-notch roast beef, and that Sauce Gribiche would like to be your best friend? (Seriously, it’s good with everything.)

Just as we do with every issue, we went out in the world and brought back the best of what we found for your consuming pleasure. We’ve got a bookmobile of cheese, wine that goes with chocolate bunnies, a drink with both eggs and jam (so you can feel good about imbibing before noon!), and a beer festival that hinges on a dartboard. And, of course, a whole lot more — both between these covers and on our website. So turn the page and dig in.

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

Chef Aaron Solley’s Smoked Trout Hash, p13

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april 2011 24 Get toGether:

paSSover Makeover Rich lamb shanks, lemony rice pilaf. You don’t have to be Jewish to crave this divine Sephardic dinner. where to find the recipeS in thiS iSSUe:

32 oF Food and bike

partS See what happens when a guy known for his coveted cycling components gets thoroughly obsessed with food.

MaIn DISheS: • Braised Lamb Shanks With apricots and Warm Spices, p27 • roast Chicken With Oranges, Lemons and Ginger, p28 • roasted Top round, p42 • Smoked Trout hash, p13

40 Say hello to top

SIDeS: • Moroccan roasted Carrot Salad With Chard and Parsley, p29 • Oven-Baked rice With artichokes, Lemon and Mint, p30 • Potato Tagine With Olives and Preserved Lemon, p29

round It’s cheap, flavorful and the perfect roast for your next Sunday supper. And in the hands of three chefs, the leftovers make crazy-good sandwiches.

in every iSSue 13 StarterS Yummy trout hash, DIY Bloody Marys, cheese on wheels

21 MixMaSter Frothy cocktails for proper brunching 49 Good CheeSe Tangy, fresh goat’s milk in spreadable form 51 Five WineS Find out what to serve with your chocolate bunnies

54 Walkabout Beaumont Village: artisan roasters, bargain wines 61 pubCraWl Funky Belgian yeasts get their own festival

65 eat here Many tasty reasons to visit Spokane 70 SCene Where to eat when you’re craving meat 76 hiGh Five Chile-spiked soups to ward off the rain

On The COVer: roast Beef Sandwich With Sauce Gribiche from David Kreifels of Laurelhurst Market (Page 40) ThIS PaGe: One of the sweet rewards at Chris King’s Gourmet Century ride (Page 32)

online extraS at mixpdx.com: • Watch aaron Solley of the James John Cafe perfect the art of poaching eggs

• Four tasty recipes give you an excuse to play with fromage blanc

• Shake up a Bandon Bog cocktail from Kelley Swenson at June restaurant

• Find out where to buy andrew Fortgang’s april wine picks, and get chef Gabriel rucker’s recipe for Garlic-roasted asparagus With Croutons and Manchego

• Get cheese-truck-guy Tom Kooiman’s picks for a great spring cheese plate

• Cycle-parts guru Chris King shares his signature fajita recipe

SanDWICheS: • roast Beef Bánh Mì, p45 • roast Beef Sandwich With Salsa Verde, p44 • roast Beef Sandwich With Sauce Gribiche, p43 COnDIMenTS: • horseradish Mayonnaise, p46 • Pickled Carrots, p47 • Pickled eggs, p 46 • Pickled Turnips and Fennel, p47 • roasted Tomatoes, p47 • Salsa Verde, p47 • Sauce Gribiche, p46 • Vietnamese Fish Sauce Glaze, p47 DeSSerTS: • Flourless Orangealmond Cake With Ginger, p31 DrInKS: • Kentucky Breakfast, p22 • ramos Fizz, p23

The slower the roast, the better the

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Tully’s Coffee® Worth discovering™

Our dedicated coffee roasters understand there are no shortcuts to handcrafted quality.. At Tully’s,® the extra time we take to slowly roast our beans brings out the smoothest, richestt ﬂavor. We invite you to linger over a cup of our rich, delicious coffee. Just like we did. Available in bags and K-Cup® portion packs for Keurig® Brewers. tullys.com

contributors

Portland Spirit Events Portland Spirit Presents Ken Davenport’s

The Awesome 80’s Prom is a brand new blast-from-thepast interactive production set at Wanaget High’s Senior Prom....in 1989! All the best characters from your favorite 80’s movies are there and they are all competing from Prom King and Queen. So, tease up your hair, pull out your parachute pants and join the breakdance circle.

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For this issue’s story “Chris King Likes to Cook,” longtime food writer and bike junkie Matthew Card was more than willing to interview bike legend Chris King and ride last summer’s “Gourmet Century,” arguably the most delicious 63 miles this country has to offer. In the name of research, he ate far too much during the ride, likely consuming many more calories than he expended despite a 15-odd mile off-piste adventure (he got lost). In addition to writing and recipe development for Mix magazine, Matthew is a contributing editor to Cook’s Illustrated and has written for Bicycling magazine, Men’s Journal and Portland Monthly, among other publications. He has two young sons, both of whom have voracious, inquisitive appetites and, thankfully, a love of all things two-wheeled. Page 32.

On her first visit to Spokane more than 20 years ago, Kris wetherbee fell in love. “I discovered a Thai restaurant during my early evening walk,” she says. “It was one of the best Thai food experiences I’ve ever encountered.” For this issue, she returned to Spokane to discover the many other charms the urban oasis has to offer. Wetherbee’s food and travel articles have appeared in such magazines as Northwest Palate, Via, Relish and Coastal Living. Page 65.

Jeffrey Morgenthaler has been tending bar since 1996, in everything from neighborhood taverns and college nightclubs to fine restaurants and upscale lounges. He currently manages the bar at Clyde Common. He’s been writing about bartending and mixology for several years at his website, jeffreymorgenthaler.com, which features original cocktail recipes, product reviews and discussions of bartending technique. His recipes and wisdom have appeared in The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal, as well as Wine Enthusiast, Playboy, Wired, Imbibe and MIX magazines. Forbes Traveler called him one of the “Cocktail Movers and Shakers” of 2007, Playboy. com named him one of the top 10 mixologists in the United States in 2009, and Tasting Panel Magazine honored him as a “New Leader” in 2009. See his take on using eggs in cocktails on Page 21.

Born in New York City to New York City Ballet dancer (corps de ballet) Mary Jean (Golden) Hamilton and Union Theological Seminary student William Hamilton, Oregonian photographer ross william hamilton received his BFA from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago in 1974. He joined the staff of The Oregonian four years later and his work has been captivating readers ever since. For this issue, Ross went all out to get our roast beef looking its juicy best, but it wasn’t easy. “I love beef. I love the smell of cooking beef. Beef good,” he quips. “But beef is also difficult to render in a photograph, especially a big hunk of a roast. It can look odd, dark and unappetizing. Usually the aroma overrides any visual concerns, but photos don’t have smell-o-vision, so they better look yummy.” Page 40.

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS grant butler, Katherine Cole, leSlie Cole, Janet FilipS, John FoySton, traCy howard, taMi parr, deena priChep OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ILLUSTRATORS MiKe daviS, brian Feulner , torSten KJellStrand, beth naKaMura, Motoya naKaMura, randy l. raSMuSSen, John M vinCent

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starters PagE 14: Mobile cheese PagE 16: DIY Bloody Mary bars, luscious lotion PagE 18: a juiced-up mixer, new restaurants, British crunchy biscuits

EaT ThIS

Smoked trout hash at James John Cafe Stroll down the main drag of downtown St. Johns on any given morning and you’ll be captivated by a savory smell emanating from a certain storefront. This is the aroma of James John Cafe. And to make a profound understatement, it is not your average coffee-anda-scone joint. Named after the pioneer ferryman who first settled the neighborhood back in 1847, the restaurant occupies the area’s first bank building. Safe-deposit boxes now hold wine bottles, the ceiling sports the original pressed tin, and a menagerie of taxidermy festoons the walls. As for the chef, Aaron Solley trained under iconic chef Takashi Yagihashi (of Chicago’s Takashi) and pastry star Michael Laiskonis, now at Le Bernardin in New York. Owner Suzanne Bozarth’s impressive restaurant career includes a decadelong stint as bar manager at Paley’s Place. And in March, they both traveled to New York to cook at the James Beard House, a high honor — particularly for a restaurant that serves dinner just a few times a month.

With their considerable cooking chops limited by a small kitchen and a simple electric stove, the couple focus mainly on breakfast and brunch, and they make up for the lack of elbow room by producing a larder of foods that keep well and can be made in advance. Solley cures, brines, corns and smokes everything from bacon to trout, using the meats in dishes like perfect eggs Benedict and crispy smoked trout hash. Bozarth bakes pastries. They’ve even been messing around with making their own vinegar and mustard. “Someday, when we have more room, we’ll bake our own bread, too,” says Solley. Oh, and if you want a scramble, you’d better go somewhere else. “I’ve mastered the art of poaching through poaching a couple thousand eggs,” says Solley. “I can’t do eggs any other way because of space — it’s purely logistics. On the other hand, it is a beautiful thing, because a poached egg creates its own sauce. That’s what we love about them.” — KATHeRINe COLe

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOTOYA NAKAMuRA

Smoked Trout Hash Serves 4

1. POTaTOES. Toss 4 cups diced potatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast at 400 degrees, stirring occasionally, until slightly browned (about 40 minutes).

2. ONION. In a large sauté pan, sauté 1 thinly sliced onion in olive oil until translucent. Combine onion and roasted potatoes in a bowl.

3. TROUT. Add 1 pound smoked trout to the onion and potatoes. Season to taste. Sauté in large pan with olive oil until heated through.

4. EggS. Poach 8 eggs for 3 minutes. (Note: To witness Solley’s perfect poaching method, check out the video at mixpdx.com.)

NOTE: Aaron Solley smokes his own trout at James John Cafe, but you can buy smoked trout at gourmet groceries such as Whole Foods, Zupan’s or at seafood vendors such as Newman’s Fish Company at City Market.

5. SERVE. Top each serving with 2 eggs and a slice of toasted baguette. Garnish with chopped Italian parsley, salt and pepper. — Chef Aaron Solley, James John Cafe, 8527 N. Lombard St.; jamesjohncafe.com

ONLINe BONus vIDeO: Learn how Chef aaron solley makes the perfect poached egg at mIxPdx.cOm

startersCONt.

to do April aPRIL 5-17

Dinner and dancing The arrival of “Billy Elliot The musical” is one of the spring’s most-anticipated arts events. Do the night up right starting with dinner at Nel Centro or Morton’s, both within steps of Keller Auditorium. portlandopera.org/ broadway/2010_2011 nelcentro.com mortons.com/portland

aPRIL 6

Ditch the remote and eat at the table! Back in 1954, Swanson introduced the first TV dinner, paving the way for the sedentary, processed-food world of today. Celebrate this sorry milestone in an old-fashioned way: 14 Make dinner tonight from scratch and enjoy it at the dining room table. “Modern Family” isn’t going anywhere. aPRIL 9-10

Head for the hills escape from the city for a two-day exploration of 24 wineries with the North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend. $45 gets you a wine tote, a souvenir glass, lots of discounts and complimentary tastings. Designated drivers get a fancy water bottle. northwillamettevintners.org aPRIL 22-23

More than a beer fest The calendar is littered with beer festivals, but the 17th annual Spring Beer & Wine Fest is more than just a suds celebration. The Tour de Cheese features a slew of locally made fromage, plus chef demonstrations prove beer and wine are essential ingredients for cooking. springbeerfest.com

MOre tO DO

I.D. Cheese whiz Tom Kooiman pulls the cherry-red truck into a loading zone outside urban Farmer restaurant. He swings open the side door, and a pungent aroma spills onto Southwest Alder Street. No wonder. The truck, cooled to a brisk 35 degrees, is a mobile cheesetasting room. Its wire shelves are neatly stacked with about 150 beautiful rounds, squares and triangles of cheeses crafted everywhere from the Willamette Valley to the Italian Alps. This bookmobile of cheese belongs to Provvista Specialty Foods, a Northwest Portland wholesaler co-owned by Kooiman and Karen and Joe Guth. (Joe was sous chef at the late Zefiro, a groundbreaking restaurant when it opened in Northwest in 1990.) Stocking the custom-built truck has turned Kooiman, 46, into a guru of his favorite food. He’s traveled the world learning about cheese, growing Provvista’s offerings from about a dozen in the early days to about 600 today. And each week he brings cheese to hundreds of restaurants and retail cheesemongers in Portland, not to mention Seattle, eugene and Bend, reverently opening the paper-wrapped rounds and sharing samples along with his well-aged knowledge. how did you become the go-to cheese guy? I got into the cheese thing because I was the kid from Wisconsin. That’s the old joke. But for me, it was more than that. Cheese is an interesting, very dynamic food. It’s one of those things you have to capture and eat at the right time. did you actually grow up in dairy country? I grew up on a 500-acre farm in Bear Valley in southern Wisconsin. It was a crop farm, but when I was a young kid, in the ’70s, we had a small dairy,

with 26 cows that we’d milk every day. Bear Valley was just riddled with small family-owned cheese companies. We would go to the factories and buy cheese curds while they were still warm. So how do you decide what goes on the truck? In a standard load I’ll have one rack with domestic cheeses, one rack with primarily cheeses from France, another with cheeses that cover Spain and Italy, and a fourth rack that is a bit of a catchall — cut pieces and more obscure cheeses from Bavaria, the Swiss Alps or Holland. Knowing my customers and doing this for 10 years, I have a pretty good idea of what additions or subtractions I should make with each weekly load. For example, I might know on a certain day I’ll have a group of customers that like Italian robiolas, and so I’ll stock up on that. What’s it like working the cheese truck? People get very excited when the cheese truck comes. It’s a great break from their day-to-day work. They step onboard, and we get a chance to talk about cheese, or if they’re having a lousy day, maybe we’ll talk about that. It’s a little therapeutic. Part of my thing is to introduce people to cheeses, so I’m always on the lookout for new stuff. I’ve had a lot of people say, “You have the greatest job in the world.” What’s in your fridge at home?

I have a 5-year and 8-year cheddar from a wonderful company in Wisconsin called Hook’s Cheese. I’ll serve it with really good crackers or bread and Oregon beer. I always keep a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano. A fantastic pairing, which sadly does not make it on cheese plates often, is a fantastic Parmigiano-Reggiano with a nice balsamic vinegar or balsamic reduction. So you have the tart and the sweet; and when you taste the dense Parmigiano with the heavier salt and the crunchy crystal in the cheese, there’s a lot of different things firing off in your brain. do you have an Oregon favorite of the moment? I really love the cheeses from Ancient Heritage Dairy, about 50 miles from here, in Scio. and what are Portlanders going for? It’s like the “Portlandia” show, “How local is the chicken?” People want to know where their cheese comes from. That’s the neat thing about the farmers markets; you get to meet the cheesemakers. We sell a lot of european cheese as well. People really want sophisticated flavors. I think the French Pyrenees cheeses are outstanding, particularly one called Ossau Iraty — an aged sheep’s milk that has a natural rind. — JANeT FILIPS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TORSTeN KJeLLSTRAND

 ONLINe BONus: Get tom Kooiman’s picks for a

perfectly springy cheese plate — plus handling tips so you don’t screw it up — at MIxpDx.COM

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startersCONt. tO DO CONt. aPRIL 22

Reduce, reuse, recycle Step 1: Buy less and buy organic. Step 2: Get a reusable water bottle. Step 3: Stop putting things in the trash that should go in the recycling bin. Why? Because it’s Earth day. aPRIL 24

Spring into brunch Easter Sunday falls later on the calendar this year, which means restaurants offering special brunches will have a full array of spring veggies at their disposal for gourmet hashes and lip-smacking dishes. One place you probably don’t have on your pre-dinner radar? Wildwood. The restaurant is not usually open for brunch, but it’s planning a special menu to mark the holiday. wildwoodrestaurant.com aPRIL 26

Live and let liver 16

It’s been exactly five years since Chicago banned foie gras, and — surprise, surprise — the sky hasn’t collapsed. Feeling politically incorrect? You can still indulge in the fatty duck liver at several Portland restaurants, including Fenouil, where it’s served on brioche with pear and mustard, and at Le Pigeon, where it’s served on a crumpet with organ-mushroom marmalade. fenouilinthepearl.com lepigeon.com aPRIL 29

Big ideas begin with a seed In honor of National arbor day, consider planting a tree. A good place to browse is at North Portland’s small but adorable Pistils Nursery, where you can also learn about raising chickens in an urban environment. Afterward, head up the street to the Mississippi Marketplace cart pod to score a delicious lunch. arborday.org pistilsnursery.com

MOre tO DO

Bespoke Bloody Marys

If your idea of a Bloody Mary is a shot of cheap vodka, a splash of Snap-e-Tom and a limp celery stick, it’s time to rethink your drink. You can easily lift it to heavenly stature at two very different restaurants with DIY Bloody Mary bars, where you can spice things up to whatever heat level you can stand and go nutty with garnishes.

highbrow: On Sundays, the beautiful riverfront restaurant Aquariva lets diners build their own with a Mary bar that’s loaded with hot sauces, skewers of shrimp, limes and olives, plus garnishes like asparagus spears and pickles. Choose mixins like celery salt and cayenne to give your drink more complexity and spice. At just $4, it leaves you plenty of money to indulge in the brunch dishes. Lowbrow: Holman’s Restaurant may be a neighborhood dive, but that doesn’t mean it’s any less serious about Bloody Marys. For $5.25, you get a supergenerous pour of well vodka, plus 50 mixes and an array of pickled veggies that can take your drink any direction. Need more heat? There are more than 100 hot sauces at your fingertips, from meek to fire-breathing. — GRANT BuTLeR

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN FeuLNeR

Aquariva: 4650 S.W. Macadam Ave.; 503-802-5850; aquarivaportland.com Holman’s: 15 S.E. 28th Ave.; 503-231-1093; myspace.com/holmansbar

thINGs We LOve YuMMY LOtION frOM LOve + tOast OK, so it’s not food, but the Honey and Coconut Handcreme from this Denver-based company honestly smells good enough to eat. It’s lightly sweet, just a touch floral, with rich coconut tones that, thankfully, don’t scream Hawaiian Tropic. It’s like wearing dessert, but in a good way. Shea butter mixed with a veritable grocery store of oils (macadamia nut, olive, avocado and sunflower) ensure the silky lotion does its job. And the way it quickly absorbs and leaves our skin super soft and not at all greasy makes it the first thing we turn to after washing up the dishes. — DANIeLLe CeNTONI

The silvery, swirly tentacles got me first, then the happy little tooth vibrating with joy. Clearly, this was no ordinary chocolate bar. And when the girl at the register launched, unbidden, into a rapturous description of its virtues, I knew I was a goner. Say no more. You had me at the octopus. unwrap the intriguing sea-creature-adorned label and you’ll find the Platonic ideal of a Caramello bar. Thick bittersweet chocolate embedded with flaky sea salt encases pools of rich, dark, salted caramel. Made by Sweeteeth, a small-batch confectioner in Charleston, S.C., it’s beyond swoon-worthy. — DANIeLLe CeNTONI

Blush Beauty Bar, 513 N.W. 23rd Ave; 503-227-3390; blushbeautybar247.com

Ink and Peat, 3808 N. Williams Ave., 503-282-6688; inkandpeat.com sweeteethchocolate.com

CaN’t Get eNOuGh Of “sea Is fOr CaraMeL” ChOCOLate Bar frOM sWeeteeth

startersCONt. DrINK thIs vINCeNt CraNBerrY JuICe WIth paLM NeCtar

tO DO CONt.

When life gives you cranberries, make juice, right? That’s exactly what Timothy Vincent did last year when he began crafting cranberry juice with the fruit from his family’s decades-old cranberry bogs on the southern Oregon coast. Out near Bandon, the growing period is longer, so the berries end up sweeter and deeply red all the way through, resulting in rich juice with an almost winelike complexity. And since the juice isn’t diluted with buckets of apple or grape juice like other brands, the intense cranberry flavor is front and center. This has made fans out of mixologists like Kelley Swenson of June Restaurant. He’s been calling on the intense, jammy, Cranberry-Palm Nectar — the most recent entry into the lip-smacking lineup — to add a tart tang to cocktails like the Bandon Bog, made with añejo tequila, ever-herbal yellow Chartreuse and sparkling wine. “There is a richness to the palm nectar that stands up to other bold flavors,” says Swenson, “ and in a cocktail, a little goes a long way.” — TRACY HOWARD

aPRIL 29-maY 1

You’ll be anything but crabby Astoria celebrates its bicentennial with the weekend-long astoria Warrenton crab, Seafood & Wine Festival 2011. Along with Northwest cuisine and vintages from Oregon and Washington wineries, the Astoria Rotary Club will serve its old-school-cool crab dinner. oldoregon.com aPRIL 29-30

A day trip to the garden

What’s this? Yet another beer festival? The Oregon garden’s 7th annual Brewfest is the excuse you need to head to Silverton and see the garden in its full spring splendor, with the first bearded irises of the season starting to bloom. And with 30 breweries pouring and tasty bites from area restaurants available until 11 p.m., you can make a full night of it. oregongarden.org/brewfest

 ONLINe BONus: Get the recipe for the Bandon Bog at MIxpDx.COM

OpeNINGs Recession? What recession? There’s been a flurry of note-worthy new restaurants opening in the past few months: Cocotte: This sweet little francophile bistro opened in early March, and has weekend brunch plans in the works. 2930 N.E. Killingsworth St., 503-227-2669, cocottepdx.com Aviary: Three co-chefs with 10 years of fine dining experience between them serve up small plates with a twist. 1733 N.E. Alberta St., 503-287-2400, aviarypdx.com Alder Pastry and Dessert: A former Heathman pastry chef returns to PDX, and is keeping his bakery open till midnight. 2448 E. Burnside, 503-548-0359 Mirakutei: Japanese small plates and steaming bowls of ramen from celebrated sushi chef Hiro Ikegaya. 536 E. Burnside St., 503-467-7501 Sunshine Tavern: Jenn Louis’ arcade-gameenriched gastropub plans to open mid-April. 3103 S.E. Division St., 503-688-1750, sunshinepdx.com Compote: From-scratch baked goods, sandwiches and, of course, compotes star at this sweet little Clinton cafe. 2032 S.E. Clinton St., 503-234-5689, compotepdx.com

GuILtY pLeasure / hOBNOBs Say what you will about mushy peas and greasy fry-ups, but not all British food is rubbish. Case in point: these nubbly, oaty, salty, crunchy, chocolate-covered cookies called Hobnobs. They were a major addiction during my post-college year in London, and they still have the power to slay my selfrestraint whenever I spot them around town. While most Brits snack on these bickies with tea, I prefer them American style — slathered with peanut butter and a cold glass of milk on the side. — DANIeLLe CeNTONI Look for McVittie’s Hobnobs at stores with a good selection of imported foods, like Pastaworks and World Market.

To grill a better sandwich, we always start with the best bread. How do we make a sandwich built on freshly baked bread even better? Simple. We grill it. From our egg and cheese breakfast sandwiches, to our new Steak and White Cheddar Panini, grilling enhances our hot sandwiches by melding the flavors together. It also caramelizes our fresh bread, adding mild, sweet and nutty notes, and a unique crunch. Every ingredient comes together in a harmony of taste and texture so you enjoy each perfectly crafted bite.

YOU’LL NEVER FIND QUALITY & SERVICE LIKE THIS IN A GROCERY STORE

ountry Mea C s ’ e t i ts Wh

EAST VANCOUVER 915 SE 164th Ave. Vancouver, WA 98683 Phone: (360) 892-5322

503.666.0967 1207 SE KANE RD

HILLSBORO CAFÉ 72020 NE Cornell Rd. Hillsboro, OR 97124 Phone: (503) 547-8282 TUALATIN CAFÉ 7149 SW Nyberg St. Tualatin, OR 97062 Phone: (503) 691-2162

BEAVERTON CAFÉ 3435 SW CedarHills Blvd. Beaverton, OR 97005 Phone: (503) 643-5920

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CLACKAMAS CAFÉ 12190 SE 82nd Ave. Portland, OR 97086 Phone: (503) 654-7900

PANERA CARES CAFÉ 4143 NE Halsey St. Portland, OR 97232 Phone: (503) 287-5900

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mixmaster

By Jeffrey Morgenthaler photography By Beth nakaMura

[ Shake an egg ] Between the egg hunts and the brunches, spring is the season of eggs. and when bartenders think of eggs, we naturally think of cocktails. We’ve been using eggs since the dawn of sophisticated drinking to impart a rich, custardlike texture to drinks. think of an old-timey Brandy flip or its successor, eggnog. although these drinks made with whole eggs don’t need to be seasonally pigeonholed, most bartenders aren’t going to serve you a drink with egg yolk in it this time of year. the results are just too heavy. Instead, we’re looking to frothy egg whites to give our spring cocktails a light, airy touch. using egg whites can either make a cocktail rich and silky or light as a feather, depending on what spirit you

use. When shaken with egg whites, lighter spirits such as gin and vodka practically dance on the palate, while heavier spirits such as rum and bourbon seem to get even richer.. the granddaddy of egg white drinks — and my favorite easter tipple — is henry ramos’ famous new orleans classic, the ramos gin fizz. Creamy, frothy and citrusy, it has become the quintessential brunch drink. Born of an era before mechanical bar equipment, the most popular drink at Mr. ramos’ bar was handed over to a team of “shaker boys” (yes, it’s as bad as it sounds) to whip into a frothy frenzy. after nearly throwing my shoulders out at easter brunches for many years, I now pre-froth the drink without ice in an electric blender.

mixmaster cont. there’s another frothy, brunchy cocktail I’ve been making for years now that has its roots in the “the Savoy Cocktail Book” from 1930. It’s a bittersweet Marmalade Cocktail of gin, lemon juice and orange marmalade. fast-forward 70 years to 2000, when present-day maestro Salvatore Calabrese revived the idea at the lanesborough hotel in london with his Breakfast Martini, sweetening the drink up a notch by substituting orange liqueur for the lemon. I’ve since taken an american riff on the drink by replacing the gin with bourbon and adding some richness with a touch of egg white. the result is rich and unctuous, with just a touch of bittersweet caramel. and at the risk of sounding overindulgent, I think it would be perfect with breakfast — because what goes better on a Sunday morning than eggs and jam? Since we’re in the midst of a cocktail renaissance, I assume pretty much everyone without specific dietary restrictions has been made comfortable with the idea of raw eggs appearing in a drink every once in a while. If this makes you green about the gills, do note that the odds are about one in 20,000 that you’ll catch a salmonellatainted egg. In fact, the odds are about three times higher that you’ll die of accidental drowning. But just to be on the safe side, do yourself a favor and know where your eggs are coming from.

Kentucky Breakfast Most people don’t think twice about sipping vodka or gin in a breakfast cocktail, but they balk at bourbon. Why? Its smooth, sweet caramel-vanilla notes make it a perfect brunch partner, especially when dosed with a little apricot jam and frothed up good and proper with an egg white. for this drink I prefer to use old ezra 7-year when I can’t find a bottle of elijah Craig 12-year in the liquor cabinet. 2 ounces bourbon 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice ½ ounce rich simple syrup (2 parts sugar to 1 part water) ½ ounce egg white, beaten 1 teaspoon apricot preserves Ice In a cocktail shaker, combine bourbon, lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white and apricot preserves. Shake well with ice, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. — Jeffrey Morgenthaler, Clyde Common, Portland

BE PART OF THE story

The artist quick draw features 18 artists working in

mediums of oil, pastel and watercolors. Artists include local favorites Romona Youngquist, Michael Orwick, Shannon Ray, Susan Day and more. The intimate setting allows guests to see artwork created magically before your eyes. Engage with the artists while they create an artistic masterpiece. Following the quick draw hour you will be escorted to the beautiful Coppergold Ballroom where you will enjoy a magical four course dinner prepared by four local chefs including Jory Restaurants’ Sunny Jin. The executive chefs have paired their courses with four local wineries’ special selection of Oregon Wine. The night culminates with a live auction of the masterfully created art pieces. A portion of the night’s proceeds benefit the Oregon Special Olympics.

FRIDAY, May 20th, 2011

6pm THE ALLISON INN & SPA Purchase Your Tickets Today! Tickets $125 • Patron Table of 8 • $1000 Mention you saw this ad in MIX magazine to receive $25 off each ticket, if purchased by May 1st.

www.TrilogyNewberg.com or 503.538.2014 The Allison Inn & Spa 2525 Allison Lane • Newberg, Oregon

Please note: Event is 21 and over

ramos Gin Fizz a little fizzy water makes this creamy drink sparkle. Because it has both egg whites and cream, it requires a hefty stint of shaking, but it’s worth it. 1½ ounce gin (ramos called for the sweet “old tom” gin, but try a fruity local number such as Small’s gin from ransom Spirits) ½ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice ½ ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice 2 teaspoons rich simple syrup (2 parts sugar to 1 part water) ½ ounce egg white, beaten

In a cocktail shaker, combine gin, lime juice, lemon juice, simple syrup, egg white, orange blossom water and half-and-half. Shake with ice until your arms are sore, and then shake for another minute longer. the mixture should look light and frothy. alternatively, blend the mixture (without ice) with an immersion blender, or in a regular blender until frothy. Strain into a tall, chilled glass (a wineglass will do nicely) and top with 2 ounces chilled soda water. — Adapted from a recipe by Henry Ramos, circa 1888

4 drops orange blossom water 1½ ounces half-and-half Ice 2 ounces chilled soda water

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je ne sais quoi, defined.

Laquered box from Algiers One of two left in our showroom, though several customers are browsing dangerously close at the moment.

S H O W R O O M • S T O N E YA R D • G R E E N H O U S E

for your | H O M E • G A R D E N

get together

[ Passover dinner gets a Mediterranean makeover ]

By Deena PricheP / PhotograPhy By mike Davis

ith all due respect to fellow members of the tribe, I think that most Jews get the Passover dinner all wrong. It’s an uplifting holiday, celebrating the Exodus from Egyptian slavery and welcoming the green shoots of rebirth that are poking up all over. But the meal? Gefilte fish and brisket. Now, some would cry foul at the mere thought of deleting these traditional dishes from the Passover table. But the truth is they only represent the Eastern European part of the tradition. Sephardim — the Jews of the Mediterranean, North African and Arab countries — are less represented in the United States, but their foods are just as traditional and, let’s be honest, a lot more exciting. Olives and saffron, chiles and pine nuts, artichokes and piles of fresh thirteen dinner guests are due any minute, but co-hosts Deena Prichep (left) and sarah schneider don’t look the least bit worried. much of their work is done, since the slow-cooked dishes on the menu can be made in advance. a pitcher of mint Juleps stands ready to greet the guests as they arrive. moroccan mint tea would have been a more traditional choice, but the minty cocktail is just a lot more festive.

herbs — these flavors are sunny enough to inspire anyone’s spring dinner party. You can’t say that about gefilte fish. I’m a food writer and therefore more than a little obsessed about what I put in my mouth. And I’m not willing to waste a celebratory meal on bland food just for the sake of tradition. For the past several years, my friend Sarah and I have been on a mission to bring these bright flavors to our Passover dinner. This year we centered the meal around symbolic lamb shanks braised to fall-apart-tenderness with warm spices and a handful of dried apricots, creating a savory-sweet interplay common to North African cuisine. Using a preparation from the Jews of Italy, Sarah marinated a chicken overnight in a citrusy bath of fresh lemon and orange juices spiked with fresh ginger, then gave it a slow roast in the oven for incredible moistness. For the vegetarians, we made a potato tagine with preserved lemons, olives and saffron, yielding one of the best vegan showstoppers I’ve ever had. A warm salad, also in the Moroccan tradition, paired earthy roasted carrots with chard and parsley. A bright lemon dressing tied it all together. And an oven-baked rice pilaf used an Italian palette of mint, parsley, lemon and meaty chunks of artichokes. Although these dishes

Menu Braised Lamb Shanks With Apricots and Warm Spices Roast Chicken With Oranges, Lemons and Ginger Oven-baked Rice With Artichokes, Lemon and Mint Potato Tagine With Olives and Preserved Lemon Moroccan Roasted Carrot Salad With Chard and Parsley Flourless Orange-Almond Cake With Ginger

Drinks Buil & GinĂŠ 2007 Montsant 17-XI Cune Rioja 2007 Crianza La Mariole Carignan centenaire Ciu Ciu Le Merlettaie Offida Pecorino (a bright white recommended for those just eating the vegetarian dishes)

get together cont.

Playlist A menu this vibrant and worldly had to be accompanied by a similarly spirited playlist. This list of albums, composed by Sarah’s husband, Alexander Trimble (he’s a big world music aficionado), has some avant-jazz klezmer, as well as some Sephardic stuff. La Mar Enfortuna’s music is especially great.

“Bar Kokhba” by John Zorn “Masada Guitars” by John Zorn “Filmworks XX: Sholem Aleichem” by John Zorn “Ipos — The Dreamers Book of Angels vol. 14” by John Zorn “On Air” by Andy Statman “Diaspora Suite” by Steven Bernstein “La Mar Enfortuna” by La Mar Enfortuna “Convivencia” by La Mar Enfortuna “Klezmer Madness!” by David Krakauer “Little Princess” by Tim Sparks “Secrets” by Feldman, Caine, Cohen and Baron “Shmutsige Magnaten: Coleman Plays Gebirtig” by Anthony Coleman “Oytsres (Treasures): A history Of Zlezmer Music 1908-1996” “King of the Klezmer Clarinet” by Naftule Brandwein “Maghreb I” by Orchestre Andalou D’Israel “Ashkelon” Emil Zrihan “A Song of David: Music of the Sephardim and Renaissance Spain” by La Rondinella (not so hip — this one is for the grandparents)

come from a range of countries, they all go deliciously with a dollop of harissa, the flavorful Tunisian chile paste. As for drinks, we kicked things off with unabashedly nontraditional mint juleps as a playful riff on the ubiquitous sweet mint tea served in North Africa. We weren’t sure what to pair with the meal, though, so we hoofed it over to Pastaworks and Mt. Tabor Fine Wines for some expert guidance. Both places steered us toward inexpensive Spanish tempranillos that can stand up to the meal’s vibrant spices. Any celebration of the sweetness of freedom wouldn’t be complete without dessert. In keeping with Passover’s prohibition on cooking with wheat, we prepared a flour-

less orange-almond cake, adapting an old recipe from Spain’s Moorish influences. We simmered the oranges whole, then whizzed them in a food processor, peel and all, to form the base of a ridiculously moist torte that keeps for days. I tweaked tradition a bit, accenting the cake with crystallized ginger and topping it with rich whipped cream and bittersweet marmalade. Now, just because we made this feast for Passover, don’t think you have to be Jewish to make it, too. These dishes are rich, warm and gorgeously spiced. And, unlike gefilte fish, delicious enough to inspire a religious experience no matter what tribe you’re in.

Timeline TWO DAYS IN ADvANCE: Bake the cake and store, covered, at room temperature Braise the lamb shanks ONE DAY IN ADvANCE: Marinate the chicken Make the potato tagine Roast the carrots for the salad Prepare and bake the pilaf EARLIER IN ThE DAY: Finish the carrot and chard salad Begin roasting the chicken ABOUT 30 MINUTES BEFORE SERvING: Let roasted chicken rest Reheat the lamb shanks in a covered pot on the stove over medium heat Reheat the tagine and rice pilaf in a 350-degree oven Garnish finished dishes with fresh herbs as directed Whip the cream, and garnish the cake with the cream and marmalade

Braised Lamb Shanks With Apricots and Warm Spices

makes 8 servings

½ This dish is incredibly rich and flavorful, but easy to put together. That’s not to say it’s fast. Browning eight shanks on all sides takes time, as does sautéing about six cups of diced onions. But it’s simple work easily accomplished with a nice glass of wine in hand. 8 lamb shanks, about 1 pound each Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons olive oil (divided) 3 large onions, diced 2 heads garlic, peeled and minced 2 cinnamon sticks ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground ginger 4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon ground cardamom 2 tablespoons dried thyme 4 cups chicken broth 1½ cups unsulphured dried apricots 1 bunch cilantro, washed and leaves roughly chopped 1 lemon, thinly sliced for garnish

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Season the lamb shanks all over with salt and pepper. heat half of the oil over high heat in a large Dutch oven or sauté pan. Add the shanks, and sear on all sides (do this in two or three batches if necessary). Remove from the pot and set aside. Reduce heat to medium and add the remaining oil and the onions. Sauté the onions until softened. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant. Stir in the cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, pepper, cumin, cardamom and thyme. If your Dutch oven isn’t large enough to hold all the shanks, or if you were using a sauté pan, divide the onion mixture among 2 or 3 oven-safe pots with lids that will accommodate the shanks. Add the lamb shanks, broth and apricots (dividing evenly if using more than one pot). Cover and roast for about 3 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

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Taste and adjust seasoning. If serving right away, garnish with cilantro and lemon slices and serve over rice or couscous. Or allow the shanks to cool to room temperature and refrigerate. Reheat over medium heat, covered, until shanks are heated through. — Adapted from “Sephardic Israeli Cuisine” by Sheilah Kaufman (Hippocrene Books, 2002)

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get together cont. roast chicken With oranges, Lemons and ginger makes 4 to 6 servings

An overnight marinade in lemon and orange juices ensures every bite of this slow-roasted chicken is permeated in bright, pleasantly bitter citrusy flavor and has a downright luscious, juicy texture. 1 lemon 2 oranges 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning 1 (5-pound) roasting chicken 3 tablespoons honey Zest and juice the lemon and oranges, saving the rinds. In a small bowl, combine the zest, a few tablespoons of the juice, the ginger and salt. Rub one-third of this paste inside the chicken. Stuff the cavity with the leftover citrus rinds, and cover the bird with a heavy sprinkling of salt. Place the chicken in a covered container or zip-top bag. Add the remaining citrus juice and the honey to what’s left of the paste, and pour this marinade over the chicken. Cover or seal the bag and allow to marinate in the refrigerator, overnight, turning a few times to evenly distribute the mixture.

Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Place the chicken breast-side up in a covered Dutch oven, casserole dish or tagine. Place the marinade in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for about 1 minute, then set aside. Roast chicken, covered, for 2 to 3 hours until nearly done (155 degrees at the thigh), basting every 30 minutes with the marinade. When nearly done, remove the cover and increase the heat to 350 degrees. Continue roasting until the skin is brown and the chicken is 160 degrees at the thigh. (The sugars in the marinade might cause the tips of the wings and legs to brown too quickly. If so, cover them in foil.) Let the chicken rest for 15 minutes before carving. — Adapted from “Cucina Ebraica” by Joyce Goldstein (Chronicle Books, 2005)

Moroccan roasted carrot Salad With chard and Parsley makes 8 servings

This warm salad offers a delicious interplay of sweet roasted carrots, warm spices, bright lemony dressing and grassy parsley and chard. 3 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch chunks 1 teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon paprika Salt ½ cup olive oil (divided) 2 bunches Swiss chard, stems removed, leaves roughly chopped 1 bunch Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, washed and roughly chopped Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 clove garlic, pressed or finely minced 1 teaspoon honey Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Arrange the carrots on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with cumin, paprika, a generous pinch of salt and 1⁄4 cup of the olive oil (add more if necessary to coat the carrots well). Toss to coat. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are soft and caramelizing on the edges (about 30 minutes). Remove from the oven and place the carrots on a serving dish. While the carrots are roasting, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt generously. Place a large bowl of ice water in the sink. Add the chard to the boiling water and cook until tender but still bright green, about 3 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chard to the ice water to stop the cooking (this step is optional, but locks in the bright green color). Drain the chard and pile it on top of the carrots. Top with the parsley. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 1⁄4 cup olive oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic and honey. Season dressing to taste with salt and pepper. Pour over the salad, toss to coat, and let sit at room temperature for a few hours to allow flavors to integrate before serving. — Deena Prichep

Potato tagine With olives and Preserved Lemon makes 8 to 10 servings

Briny olives and bright, salty preserved lemon peel give a rich mellow dish of potatoes a pop of intense flavors. This dish can be made a day ahead and reheated before guests arrive. 4 pounds red potatoes 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 small onions (or 1 large), grated coarsely on a box grater and squeezed dry ⁄3 cup tomato purée

½ teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon paprika Pinch cumin 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 medium onions, sliced into thin half-moons 1 bay leaf ½ fresh lemon

¼ cup (heaping) roughly chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley ¼ cup (heaping) roughly chopped fresh cilantro 1 hefty pinch saffron threads, crumbled 3 cups hot water Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 dozen Moroccan olives (or any purple or green olives. Pitted makes eating easier, but unpitted is fine as long as you warn your dining companions) 1 preserved lemon harissa for serving (optional but recommended)

Peel the potatoes and cut into 1⁄2-inchthick slices. (If using baby potatoes about 2 inches long, leave unpeeled and simply cut in half.) Place potatoes in a bowl of cold water, and set aside. In a large, heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the grated onion and cook about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato purée, ginger, paprika, cumin and garlic, and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes to toast the spices and reduce the tomato. Drain the potatoes and add to the pot. Add the sliced onion, bay leaf, lemon half, parsley, cilantro and saffron. Gently stir to mix the ingredients. Add the hot water, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, cover and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 40 minutes. Turn very gently once or twice during cooking, being careful not to crush the potatoes.

When potatoes are tender, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a casserole dish for serving. Discard the lemon and bay leaf. Add the olives to the remaining cooking liquid and simmer, uncovered, until the liquid is reduced to a thick sauce. Taste and adjust seasonings, then pour the sauce over the potatoes. Scrape the flesh off the preserved lemon and discard. Cut the rind crosswise into thin slices and sprinkle on top of the potatoes. The dish can be refrigerated or set aside at room temperature for a few hours. Before serving, reheat, covered, in a 350-degree oven until heated through (about 20 minutes, depending upon how long it has cooled). Serve with harissa, if desired. — Adapted from “The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen” by Paula Wolfert (Wiley, 2003)

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oven-Baked rice With Artichokes, Lemon and Mint makes 8 to 10 servings

Baking this rice with a generous amount of broth and lemon juice results in a creamy, almost risotto-like texture with a bright lemony flavor. 2 2⁄3 cups long-grain white rice 6 cups chicken or vegetable broth 2 pounds frozen artichoke bottoms (see note) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 lemons, zested and juiced 1 bunch Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, finely chopped (divided) 1 bunch fresh mint, finely chopped (divided) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon, thinly sliced, for garnish (optional) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Spread the rice into the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. In a medium saucepan, heat the broth to a simmer over mediumhigh heat. Add the artichoke bottoms and simmer until thawed (if using canned artichokes, add to the simmering broth and heat for a minute or two). Remove from heat. Remove the artichoke bottoms with a slotted spoon and arrange on top of the rice. Stir the olive oil, garlic, lemon zest and juice, and half of the herbs (reserve the rest for garnish) into the broth. Season generously with salt and pepper. Pour this mixture over the rice and artichokes, cover the dish with foil, and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking for another 20 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender and creamy. Remove from the oven and garnish with the lemon slices (if desired) and remaining fresh parsley and mint. Note: You can find frozen artichoke bottoms at Middle Eastern grocery stores. If you can’t find them, substitute an equivalent amount of canned, not marinated, artichoke bottoms, or artichoke hearts. — Adapted from “Regional Italian Cuisine” by Reinhardt Hess and Sabine Salzer (Barron’s, 1999)

20 th Anniversar y Season

Photo by Craig Mitchelldyer

April 14 – MAy 8

Flourless orange-Almond cake With ginger

Starring

FRED BISHOP TODD TSCHIDA YOHAnnES MuRPHY Created by David Grapes and Todd Olson Arrangements by Vince di Mura

proudly presented by

makes 8 to 10 servings

This moist, dense, citrusy cake, which I adapted from several old recipes, will keep (unfrosted) for days — perfect for getting a jump-start on a dinner party. If you’re avoiding dairy, the cake is delicious with just the marmalade, or on its own. If you don’t want to frost the whole cake, just serve slices with a dollop of whipped cream or crème fraîche and a generous spoonful of marmalade on the side.

2 large oranges (or 3 smallish oranges) 2 cups almond meal ¼ cup candied ginger, minced 1 cup granulated sugar, plus 2 tablespoons (divided) 6 large eggs 1 cup heavy cream

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Dash vanilla extract (optional) 1 cup orange marmalade

Place the oranges in a pot, and cover with water by a few inches (the oranges will bob around, but that’s OK). Simmer until the oranges are totally soft, about 1 hour, turning them occasionally so that all sides are simmered (this will not smell as lovely as you’d think it would). Drain, and let cool. While the oranges are cooling, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch springform pan. Chop the boiled oranges into large pieces, discarding any seeds. Place the oranges, skin and all, into a food processor, and process until the oranges are finely minced. Add the almond meal, candied ginger and ½ cup of the sugar; process until combined. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs and ½ cup of the sugar on high speed until light and thick enough to form a ribbon when the mixture falls from the beater (this can take up to 10 minutes). Gently fold in the orange mixture until just combined. Pour into the prepared pan, smooth the top, and bake until a tester comes out clean and the top springs back when lightly touched, about 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before removing the ring. Before serving, whip the cream, vanilla and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar to medium-soft peaks. Spread the cream over the top of the cake. Stir the marmalade to loosen it up, then spread it over the cream. — Deena Prichep

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King Cycle Group built its reputation on ridiculously tough, fail-safe headsets, wheel hubs and bottom brackets — prosaic parts that marry a bicycle’s bits and bobs together and keep it rolling smoothly. World champion cyclists like Lance Armstrong swear by the performance. But Chris King says bombproof needn’t be plain (the parts are available in all shades of the rainbow), just as the company’s marketing outreach can be about handing out roasted red pepper sandwiches or firing up the grill at bike rides rather than dry press releases.

Chris King liKes to CooK 33

his name is synonymous with high-performance bike components, so why is the King Cycle group honcho working a flaming sautĂŠ pan like a pro? Because the ardent food-lover canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but spread the good-food gospel, making rides a whole lot tastier By Matthew Card / PhotograPhy By Mike davis

Tucked anonymously into the industrial zone

between downtown Portland and U.S. 30 lies King Cycle Group, one of the bicycle industry’s premier parts manufacturers. In a boxy warehouse formerly occupied by Folgers coffee (the old silo tower remains), the 70-odd-employee company fabricates framesets and parts such as wheel hubs and headsets (the bearings that marry frame to fork). Prosaic, yes, but their jewel-like aesthetics and remarkably durable construction make them anything but mundane. Ask any committed cyclist about King products and their eyes gleam with lust. The company has outfitted the bikes of countless professionals, from Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong to world champion downhill mountain biker Steve Peat. It’s the good stuff. But King Cycle Group wasn’t born here. The 20-year-old company relocated to Portland in late 2003, lured by the city’s massive bicycling community, vibrant culture, green ethos and, most importantly, its food-centric lifestyle. You see, Chris King, the company’s founder, guiding force and self-described “benevolent monarch,” is obsessed with food. And his fanaticism spills over to his namesake company. You wouldn’t think that food and cooking would (or could), have that much to do with making bicycle parts, but from the cafeteria to the marketing, food is ever present. To paraphrase Napoleon, this company marches on its stomach.

The cafeteria of a bike parts factory isn’t the first place you’d think to find a professional chef piping cookies and employees dining on garnished soups and upscale sandwiches. But when the boss is deeply knowledgeable about all manner of cookery (arcane and otherwise), has traveled extensively and has completed rigorous cooking classes, maybe it’s not really that much of a surprise. Ever the machinist, King (in blue shirt, above) says, “I appreciate all things well made and well done, food being no exception.”

A cafeteria that puts some restaurants to shame King Cycle Group has undoubtedly the best corporate cafeteria in town. The sprawling space has a quiet, understated beauty, with its Italian marble detailing, lush prints from local photographer Daniel Sharp and comfortable bright-red banquettes. In the center, there’s a long communal table where the close-knit staff typically gathers. And the broad, spotless, open kitchen makes it easy to strike up a conversation with longtime company chef, Robert McSpadden. As for the food? It’s good — really good. Each day, the staff can choose from a set

menu or a selection of a la carte soups and sandwiches. A typical lunch might be penne with roasted cherry tomato sauce, meatballs and garlic toast, or pulled pork on ciabatta rolls with spicy slaw and threecheese macaroni — all from-scratch of course. The meat and produce are largely from Oregon, and some of it even comes from King’s backyard. Last year, King lent a portion of his Northwest hills property to a class from Terra Nova High School who planted, harvested, and sold vegetables as part of a CSA program. Excess produce was put to good use in the cafe. Besides lunch, there are freshly baked muffins in the morning and cookies in the afternoon. A professional espresso maker occupies one corner (King recently pro-

duced a limited run of highly engineered espresso tampers, which sold out quickly), and a continuously refreshed pot of local Nossa Familia coffee keeps the staff fully charged. In the end, it’s a lot of effort, and expense, to provide a service most companies abandoned a long time ago. But King says the cafeteria inspires a “palpable morale boost” that improves quality and productivity. A well-fed staff is a happy staff. Besides, he says, the employees spend so much time at the office that he feels it’s his responsibility to provide the best environment possible. Hang around King long enough and you’ll get the feeling that there’s the “right” way of doing things — a machinist’s pursuit of perfection.

Planning for the Gourmet Century began months ahead of the event and involved (from right in top left photo) King, longtime company chef Robert McSpadden, noted local cooking instructor and cookbook author Robert Reynolds, who helped craft the menu, and product manager (and accomplished cook) Jay Sycip. Both King and Sycip took Reynolds’ rigorous, hands-on course in classic French cooking. The event’s seated dinner included a buffet of seasonal, French-themed salads, roast chicken with pear aioli, plus a creamy vegetable custard, proving spandex and fine dining really do go hand-in-hand.

The way to a cyclist’s heart is through his stomach Clearly King is a big believer in the power of food, so it’s only natural that he’d find ways to incorporate it into his company’s marketing strategy. It all started many years ago, with an impromptu batch of fajitas whipped up after an event in Santa Cruz, Calif. Now the company has a long history of feeding the cycling community at all sorts of bike festivals, races and trail maintenance projects. What’s unusual, though, is that it’s not catering companies doing the work. King and his employees cook and serve the food themselves. For years, they’ve packed their truck and headed to Northern California to

grill fajitas and flip pancakes for hundreds at the Downieville Classic Mountain Bike Race and Festival. At Interbike, the bicycle industry’s annual trade show, they feed crowds at the outdoor demo. Locally, they fuel riders at the Pioneer Century and keep cyclocross racers buzzing with buckets of hot coffee at Portland’s hugely popular autumn Cross Crusade series. It’s all marketing, of course, but it’s subtle. And it allows the company to make its mark in a way that feels right to a foodlover like King. “Food is magic,” he says. It’s a social lubricant, motivating agent, community builder. Though the only tangible result of these efforts is good will toward the company, “good will sells products,” says King.

Will Ride for Food: Building the Gourmet Century

The crown jewel in King’s strategy got its start in Santa Barbara. There, in 1990, King stepped into the kitchen to aid the Gourmet Century’s founder — frame-builder turned professional chef Tim Neenan. Nine years later, Neenan handed the event over to King, who hosted it throughout the wine-growing regions of central and Northern California before the company’s northward relocation. The ride’s ethos is simple: eat, ride, be happy. There’s “no racing and no competition,” says King — outside of, perhaps, calories consumed or tasting-room pit stops. Clearly, the ride is the ultimate representation of his passions — bikes and food. Last year’s Century (the second since the

company’s relocation) began in McMinnville and wound a 103-kilometer loop around the gentle slopes and quiet, scenic roads of Willamette Valley wine country. Participants came from a broad swath of bike culture, from spandex-clad skinny racers to stout mountain bikers to recreational riders of all ages — all attracted by the meals as much as the miles. The menu’s theme changes every year. Last year’s French version was crafted in part by local chef-instructor Robert Reynolds (King recently sliced and diced his way through Reynolds’ rigorous instruction at the Chef’s Studio). It included creamy hot oatmeal, silver dollar pancakes spread with tart berry compote, Breton butter cake (kouign amann), and savory French toast (pain perdu) piled high with goat cheese, shredded zucchini and herbs. The lunch stop, which came after a midpoint snack of Grand Central Bakery’s stellar

Freshly shucked oysters on a 63-mile bike ride? Why not? These tasty mollusks were just one of the many ways riders fueled up at last year’s Gourmet Century, where there was nary a Clif bar in sight. Organized down to the last crumb by Chris King, the food-focused ride meandered through Willamette Valley wine country, with pit stops along the way for things like palmiers and shortbread from Grand Central Bakery, Niçoise-style tuna sandwiches and lavenderscented raspberry lemonade.

palmiers and shortbread (co-owner Piper Davis blazed the ride), included a stylized pan bagnat, a Nicoise-style tuna sandwich, and live music in a schoolyard nestled below the rolling ridges of some of Oregon’s finest vineyards. Before the ride returned to McMinnville, there was a dessert stop at the stunning Cana’s Feast winery on the outskirts of Carlton and yet another cookie break, this time accompanied by lavenderscented raspberry lemonade. A plated dinner, which was served in three seatings to accommodate the varying velocity and off-piste wanderings of all, came after hors d’oeuvres and a buffet of various salads. It included buttery roast chicken graced with a light pear-accented aioli, a bright, simple mesclun salad and For more information on Chris King and the Gourmet Century, go to: http://chrisking. com/company/events_gc_mmddyy

creamy vegetable custard. Waiters passed fresh-from-the fryer pommes dauphinois, a French classic perhaps best described as the world’s most perfect tater tot. For those who could eat more, the epic spread was followed by a roulade cake spiraled with jam. Riders washed it all down with local wines and Laurelwood Brewery’s hoppy beers. As usual, it was an ambitious spread. And, as usual, it was prepared by King and his staff on a voluntary (but paid) basis. Machinists became sauciers; marketers became dishwashers. That kind of handson hosting has the effect of giving the event, and the food, a personal touch — like a giant, rolling dinner party. And that’s exactly the way King likes it. “It’s nice to see facets of the ride sprinkled with faces from all over the company,” he says. “It just fits who we are and what we see as a lifestyle connected to our work.” £

Romancing the roast In the hands of three chefs, an inexpensive cut becomes a Sunday-worthy supper – and a trio of outstanding sandwiches By LESLIE COLE As food experiences go, i like mine simple and straightforward. A tree-ripened peach, its skin still warm from the sun. Biscuits hot from the oven, slathered with honey. roast beef, medium rare. i’ll give in to my cravings for peaches and biscuits any time it suits me. But those succulent, buttery beef roasts are expensive, so i treat them as a once-in-a-blue-moon splurge. Turns out, though, there’s more to beef roasts than pricey prime rib. We may think of the cheaper, tougher cuts as good for only stews and braises, but with the proper care, they can become an inexpensive roast — no special occasion required. Ben Meyer of grain & gristle, who spent a few years working behind the butcher counter at new seasons, recommends the top or bottom round, roasts cut from the hindquarters of the animal. “it’s what my grandmother would have called rump roast,” he says. it’s also what’s used to make roast beef at almost every deli. The round is lean because it’s a whole muscle, one that’s used a lot by the animal. That gives it plenty of flavor, but not much intramuscular fat, so don’t cook it beyond medium rare. “You want to keep it nice and pink because it will dry out really fast. There’s no fat to replace the moisture in there, and it will be really tough.” You won’t get generous amounts of pan juices to make Yorkshire pudding with this roast, but you can turn it into a memorable meal by crumbling some Maytag blue cheese on a perfectly pink slice and serving roasted asparagus and creamy horseradish mashed potatoes alongside.

photograph by torsten kjellstrand

BuT A greAT roAsT isn’t just about the main meal. in fact, the leftovers might even be the best part, as they set you up for all kinds of sandwich deliciousness the next day. A great roast beef sandwich, says Meyer, is a perfect blend of balanced and bold: a generous pile of sliced roast beef, some sort of fresh and crunchy greens, a creamy dressing, and pickles or peppers. “You have this crunch, but it’s nice and creamy and rich, a big meat flavor then these little spikes of flavor with pickles and peppers. That equation almost always works.” He’s right. We asked three great portland chefs (including Meyer) for three roast beef sandwich ideas and each one couldn’t help but riff on the meat, plus crunch, plus creamy, plus pickle combination. Meyer came up with a beef bánh mì that might be unorthodox, but it’s also everything a great sandwich should be, full of zip and crunch and big meaty flavor. Think thinly sliced medium-rare roast beef, kissed with a salty-sweet Vietnamese glaze and piled with pickled carrots, encased in a soft roll slathered with horseradish mayo. Kevin sandri, the italian-streetfood master behind garden state and Burgatroyd food carts, gives us a roast beef sandwich that’s bright and brash, layered with quickpickled fennel and turnips, peppery arugula leaves, roasted tomatoes and salsa verde. And Laurelhurst Market’s david Kreifels came up with a sandwich that’s the essence of oregon spring: crisp pea shoots dressed with a cooked egg/pickle/ caper relish called sauce gribiche, and a generous smear of horseradish mayonnaise. We’ve broken their recipes down into components, so you can put them together to make a sandwich as the chefs would, or turn them into a sandwich of your own design. You can mix, match and choose your own adventure, no splurge required. photography by ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON With portraits by MOTOYA NAKAMURA

Roasted Beef Top Round From Ben Meyer, Grain & Gristle Makes 4 servings, with leftovers

Top round is a bargain among roasts, with very good flavor and enough juiciness to fool you into thinking you’ve spent a fortune. Because cheaper roasts have less marbling, don’t cook this past medium rare, and do slice it thinly. Ben Meyer of grain & gristle likes to flip the roast every so often as it cooks, which gives it a nice pinkness all the way through and evenly distributes the juices. 1 (5-pound) top-round beef roast 2 tablespoons kosher salt

pat roast dry with paper towels. rub with salt, place on a large plate and refrigerate uncovered for 12 to 24 hours, turning roast over several times as it rests. remove from refrigerator, transfer to a roasting pan and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. preheat oven to 500 degrees. roast the beef in the hot oven for 15 minutes, turn roast bottom side up, roast for another 15 minutes and turn it again. reduce temperature to 250 degrees and continue roasting for an additional 1¾ hours, turning the meat every 45 minutes, until it reaches an internal temperature of 125 degrees. remove roast from the oven, tent with foil and let it rest 30 minutes. slice thinly and serve with crumbled blue cheese and roasted vegetables, or prepared horseradish and mashed potatoes. refrigerate leftovers for sandwiches. — From Ben Meyer, Grain & Gristle

We asked three chefs to give us their best shot at putting roast beefy leftovers to good use. As you can see, they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint. Recipes for the components start on Page 46.

Roast Beef Sandwich With Sauce Gribiche From David Kreifels, Laurelhurst Market

split the roll and spread each half with horseradish mayonnaise. dress a handful of pea shoots with Sauce Gribiche and pile on the bottom half of the roll. Top with roasted beets sliced paper thin, then pile with rare roast beef. Hit it with a little bit more pickled gribiche before adding the top of the roll.

Roast Beef Sandwich With Salsa Verde From Kevin Sandri, Garden State split and toast roll. spread salsa verde generously on both halves. place a layer of baby arugula leaves on the bottom half, top with roasted tomatoes, thinly sliced roast beef, and pickled turnips and fennel. spread a little mayo, and some more salsa verde, on the top half of the roll and set it on top.

Roast Beef BĂĄnh MĂŹ From Ben Meyer, Grain & Gristle split a soft roll and spread each half with horseradish mayonnaise. Top bottom half with thinly sliced beef and brush with Vietnamese fish sauce glaze. Add a layer of thinly sliced cabbage, a layer of pickled carrots, a few cilantro leaves and a touch of sriracha.

Don’t forget the crunchy, saucy, pickled components Follow the chefs to sandwich bliss or choose your own adventure

Bread

Meat

• Kaiser or ciabatta roll

• Leftover roasted top round, sliced thin (✱)

Creamy or Saucy

Fresh and Bright

Tart and Pickled

• Horseradish mayonnaise (✱) • Salsa verde (✱) • Vietnamese fish sauce glaze (✱)

• Pea shoots • Roasted beets • Roasted tomatoes • Arugula • Thinly sliced cabbage • Cilantro

• Sauce gribiche • Pickled eggs (✱) • Pickled turnips and fennel (✱) • Pickled carrots (✱)

Pickled Eggs Makes 1 dozen

This recipe makes way more than you’ll need for the sauce gribiche. You could cut it in half, but then you wouldn’t have a big jar of spicy pickled eggs ready and waiting for snacking, salads and sandwiches. Trust us, you’ll be happy you made the full recipe. 2 cups cider vinegar 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes 1 tablespoon black peppercorns

Sauce Gribiche

5 cloves garlic, smashed ½ cup water 1 dozen hard-cooked eggs, peeled

Makes about ½ cup

This tangy sauce with a funny name is a french favorite with springy things like hard-cooked eggs, poached fish and asparagus. But its most traditional use is on a calf ’s head, so it’s not that much of a stretch to use it on a roast beef sandwich, too. some versions of the sauce are like a chunky mayonnaise, while others are like a chunky vinaigrette. This one is nearer the mayonnaise end of the spectrum, making it perfect for spreading on a sandwich. 1 pickled egg, chopped (see accompanying recipe) 3 or 4 cornichons, finely chopped 2 teaspoons capers, chopped 1 teaspoon finely minced shallot 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon dijon mustard 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped dill (optional) pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons canola oil

in a small bowl, mix together the pickled egg, cornichons, capers, shallot, vinegar, mustard, parsley, dill, salt and pepper. slowly drizzle in the olive oil and canola oil while whisking to emulsify. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. — David Kreifels, Laurelhurst Market

in a medium saucepan, combine the vinegar, red pepper flakes, peppercorns, garlic and water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from heat and let cool completely. pour cooled brine into a large jar with a lid, add eggs and refrigerate for at least 2 days before using and up to 1 week. — David Kreifels, Laurelhurst Market

Horseradish Mayonnaise Makes about 1 cup

We love the rich, silky-soft texture of fresh mayonnaise. But if you don’t want to make your own, just whisk prepared horseradish into store-bought mayonnaise to taste.

1 egg yolk ½ teaspoon dijon mustard 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh, peeled horseradish root 1 cup canola oil ½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice in a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, mustard and horseradish. gradually drizzle in the oil while whisking. When the mixture looks emulsified, you can add the oil a little faster, whisking until it’s all combined (you can also make this in a mini food processor or with a hand-blender). stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. — David Kreifels, Laurelhurst Market

Roasted Tomatoes

Pickled Carrots

Makes about 2 cups

sweet-sour and crunchy, these pickled carrots are perfect on báhn mì.

slow roasting concentrates the flavor of the tomatoes, turning them into a rich component that can stand up to the big flavors of a beefy sandwich. 6 roma tomatoes 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 sprig fresh rosemary 2 sprigs fresh thyme

Makes about 2 cups

1 cup distilled white vinegar 1 cup apple cider vinegar preheat oven to 450 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Halve tomatoes lengthwise and remove the core. place in a medium bowl and toss with the garlic, oil, salt and pepper. strip the leaves from the herb sprigs and spread on the prepared baking sheet. place the tomatoes cut-side down over them. pour any liquid in the bowl over the tomatoes. roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the skins on the tomatoes are blistered and loose (the broil setting will work well for this). Take them out and turn the oven down to 325 degrees. remove the skins from the tomatoes and return them to the oven. roast the tomatoes for another hour; they should shrink up and brown on their edges, but not be totally dried out. When finished, discard the garlic. — Kevin Sandri, Garden State

1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup water ¼ cup kosher salt, or to taste 2 cups of peeled carrots sliced about 1⁄4-inch-thick on the bias in a medium nonreactive pot, combine the white and cider vinegars, sugar and water. Bring to a boil over high heat. stir in the salt until dissolved, then remove from heat. place carrots in a bowl or jar with a lid and pour brine over the carrots. Let stand until cool. refrigerate overnight before using. They’ll keep for at least a week. — Ben Meyer, Grain & Gristle

Pickled Turnips and Fennel

Salsa Verde

Thinly sliced turnips and fennel make deliciously quick crunchy pickles. Throw a tablespoon or so of chopped fennel tips into the mix for more flavor and color.

Makes about ¾ cup

¾ cup white wine vinegar

place the vinegar, water, fennel seeds, peppercorns, bay leaf and sugar into a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. ½ teaspoon fennel seeds cover, remove from the heat and let stand for 15 minutes. place turnip, ½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns fennel and shallots in a bowl and pour 1 bay leaf brine over. Toss and let stand for another 30 minutes. 3 tablespoons granulated sugar — Kevin Sandri, Garden State 1 small turnip, peeled, sliced into 1⁄8 -inchthick rounds 2 tablespoons water

1 small bulb fennel, sliced into ⁄8 -inch-thick rounds

2 shallots, sliced into ⁄8 -inch-thick rounds

Bright elemental flavors of shallots, capers, garlic and parsley come together in a dead-simple but boldly flavored sauce. 1 cup finely chopped fresh italian (flat-leaf) parsley 2 tablespoons minced shallot 3 teaspoons minced capers 3 teaspoons minced garlic 3 tablespoons brine from pickled Turnips and fennel (see accompanying recipe) ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (divided) salt and freshly ground black pepper

in a small bowl, combine the parsley, shallot, capers, garlic, brine and olive oil. season with salt and pepper to taste. — Kevin Sandri, Garden State

Vietnamese Fish Sauce Glaze Makes about 1⁄3 cup

so simple, yet so vibrantly flavored, this glaze gives thinly sliced roast beef an Asian edge.

2 tablespoons Tiparos brand fish sauce 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons granulated sugar in a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients. — Ben Meyer, Grain & Gristle

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5 1 SE Harney St 1

Cravin’ Raven

Springtime In Paris! Fab finds from the French flea markets plus other goodies. Come in now for jewelry, medals, vases for your spring flowers, fragrances, garden books, glassware and ornamentia! Join us at our new location in Westmoreland right next door to our sister store, CoCo Gets Dressed. Still the same charming shop with many treasures straight from the streets of Paris.

New spring and summer colors! Sun dresses, T-shirts and capris plus the best Hobo handbag selection in town. Come in and see the fabulous new spring line from Cynthia Ashby where the poetry of color makes these garments so unique. Beautiful linen, cotton, silk and wool in assorted textures and weights. The raw look of the fabric is animated with ﬁne detailing in design and construction. “CoCo Gets Dressed has clothing that tickles your soul.”

7011 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.5999

7007 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.7777

Ste. Maine

Moreland Vision Source

Enriching Sellwood’s status as a healthy-living hub is Cravin’ Raven Organic Bakery, the place that proves you don’t have to use white ﬂour, white sugar, or butter to make delectable treats. Try our healthy and delicious assortment of mufﬁns, cookies, cakes, and assorted treats, all organic and sweetened with agave nectar. Specializing in Gluten-free options. Catering Available.

Often described as “modern glamour”, Ste. Maine is both home furnishings showroom and design studio. The furniture is a combination of vintage, new, and custom pieces upholstered in lush fabrics. Also featured: bedding, lighting, ﬁne art, books (design, fashion, lifestyle and culinary), ceramics (ranging from display to table top), decorative gift items, mirrors, decorative wall arts, one-of-a-kind pieces, and “Ste. Maine Exclusive” design pieces.

You’ll find something for everyone here! You’ll love our American-made solid wood furniture, upholstery, lighting, signs, weathervanes, rugs, candles and much more. Visit our 21 rooms on 2 floors full of great decorating ideas, many that you won’t find anywhere , but here. You’ll find something new each time you visit.

8339 SE 13th Avenue 503.234.0603 www.cravinraven.com

7015 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.232.1880 www.saintmaine.com

8203 SE 13th Avenue 503.235.5115 www.americanatheart.us

Sellwood Marketplace

Come check out our exclusive optical gallery featuring hand-painted stain glass eyewear from Studio3 Occhiali Eyewear imported from Italy. We also carry famous designer eyewear such as Gucci, Liz Claiborne, Silhouette, Prodesign, Lafont, Calvin Klien and Sean John, just to name a few. Stop by and check us out! Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 5:30 6539 SE Milwaukie Avenue 503.236.6008 www.visionsource-moreland.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Jeff Brosy at 503.221.8320 or jeffb@sales.oregonian.com

good cheese

[ Fromage blanc from Rollingstone Chèvre ] 49

For most of us, spring is the season of buds, blossoms and new growth. But for many farmstead cheesemakers, spring signals the arrival of baby goats, milk and the beginning of another year of making cheese. though some farmstead cheesemakers stagger their breeding cycles so they can milk their animals throughout the year, many take a break during the winter, such as the Evans family at rollingstone Chèvre. When spring arrives at their farm in parma, idaho, just east of the oregon-idaho border, so does kidding season. and as the resident does feast on the farm’s tender new grasses, their rich milk is transformed into the creamery’s award-winning cheese. rollingstone Chèvre was idaho’s first commercial goat dairy and has been operating since 1988. Karen Evans, an accomplished ceramic artist as well as a cheesemaker, produces a variety of goat’s milk cheeses, including flavored fresh chèvres, layered tortas

and chèvres aged in everything from brandy and hard cider to wine pressings. one of my favorite cheeses from rollingstone is one of the simplest — the fromage blanc, a mild cheese made from whole goat’s milk. the fresh, bracing unpretentiousness of this cheese brings to mind the spring season. it’s a lot like rollingstone’s fresh chèvre, but it’s a little creamier and more tart because it’s made with a different set of cultures. its lemony undertones are perfect with spring foods such as fresh peas and fava bean purée. Unlike aged cheeses, fresh cheeses like fromage blanc are made to be eaten right away. as a result, the cheese is only as good as the milk because there aren’t any other flavors to get in the way. in the case of rollingstone, that’s a good thing, as their milk has an underlying sweetness that comes through deliciously. it’s as if their perfect, farm-fresh goat milk has found a higher calling.

By taMi parr/ photograph By roSS WiLLiaM haMiLtoN

Name: Fromage blanc milk: goat’s milk from the farm’s Saanen goats Flavor: Mild and silky-textured with a distinct lemony sharpness Why We like this cheese: it’s creamy, fresh and tastes like spring availability: New Seasons

 oNliNe boNus: Fromage blanc is a great vehicle for experimentation. think if it as a blank slate for your favorite flavor combinations,

sweet or savory. go to mixpdx.com to find a few delicious suggestions to get you started.

Hillsdale - SW Capitol Hwy

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Korkage Wine Shop Haircolor Salon Dirk

hway SW Capitol Hig

A complete service boutique salon since 1989. Owner Jo-Anna Dirk, a master hair colorist (the ﬁrst in the Northwest!), has been a premier educator for major hair product manufacturer’s throughout the world. All stylists follow an apprentice program under her close tutelage. Haircolor Salon Dirk offers their own private label, premium skin care line. 1517 SW Sunset Blvd., Portland, OR 503-244-4242 www.haircolorsalondirk.com; www.salondirk.com

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Paloma Clothing

Enjoy live music and wine tasting in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the world. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at one of the top hospitality schools in the country, offers small bite pairings and expert wine consults - ﬁnd just the right bottle to bring to any event!

Paloma Clothing offers a unique, fun collection of women’s clothing and accessories including charming hats, scarves and locally made jewelry. Excellent service and knowledgeable staff. Spring Sale Thursday – Sunday, April 7 – 10

6351 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.293.3146 www.korkagewine.com

6316 SW. Capitol Hwy. 503.246.3417 www.palomaclothing.com 8

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Three Square Grill

hway SW Capitol Hig

wy eH ills dal SW Bea ver ton -H

At SweetWares, we love to bake and want to share that passion with others. We have stocked our shelves with a carefullyselected array of simple and useful tools of our trade. We have wares to lure a new baker into the kitchen or to bring a bit of excitement back to an expert baker looking for a muse. We offer classes where you can brush up on familiar techniques or learn the latest trick in cake decorating. Located 8 doors from our sister bakery, Baker & Spice. 6306 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.546.3737 www.sweetwares.com

With an emphasis on regional American foods, traditional preparations, and close relationships with local farmers and producers, Three Square Grill has been Hillsdale’s neighborhood restaurant since 1995 as well as the home of Picklopolis – The Kingdom of the Brine, purveyor of ﬁne pickles and preserves. Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday, 5 - 9 p.m. Breakfast: Sunday, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. 6320 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.4467 www.threesquare.com www.picklopolis.com

Hillsdale Eye Care

Sweetwares

Hillsdale Eye Care is dedicated to providing personalized eye care based on the patient’s individual needs. We enjoy working with patients requiring demanding visual needs such as sports vision, difﬁcult to ﬁt contact lens (bifocal or astigmatism) and children’s eye care. Call for appointment, open 6 days a week. 1522 SW Sunset Blvd. 503.672.9190 www.hillsdaleeye.com

Food Front Baker & Spice Baker & Spice provides a warm and inviting space where you can chat with a friend over a coffee and croissant. As a small batch bakery we use traditional methods and the highest quality ingredients to create our pastries, cakes, breads and savories. Order now for your Easter & Passover favorites such as Hot Cross Buns, Macaroons, and more.

www.HillsdaleBusiness.org

Tue-Fri 6am-6pm; Sat 7am-6pm; Sun 7am-3pm 6330 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.7573 www.bakerandspicebakery.com

Hillsdale Neighborhood

Food Front is Hillsdale’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; ﬁne wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. On Sunday, Dec. 5th, all shoppers get 10% off and can warm up with free chili, hot chocolate, and apple cider. Open 8am-9pm Daily 6344 SW Capitol Hwy. Hillsdale Shopping Center 503.546.6559 www.foodfront.coop

To advertise in Marketplace contact Darcy Paquette at 503.221.8299 or dpaquette@oregonian.com

five wines (that scream april) By katherine cole / photoGraphy By Beth nakamura

With its robin’s-egg-blue walls, glittering pressed-aluminum ceiling, lace curtains and framed mounted butterflies, little Bird feels like the inside of an easter egg — a really cool easter egg. the kind that’s tattooed rather than dyed. and so when we asked the incomparable Andrew Fortgang (left), the bistro’s wine buyer and co-owner (along with chef Gabriel rucker), for a basketful of wines appropriate for this month of bunnies and pastels, it was a bit of a stretch. sure, the words “little Bird” make us think of fluffy yellow chicks, but Fortgang’s comfort zone is frog legs, beef tongue and coq au vin, not baked ham and hard-boiled eggs. When we say “april,” Fortgang says “morels and Burgundy.” But, with a little prodding, we got him to wrap his brain around run-of-the-mill asparagus and easter candy. We’re glad we did. his lineup of original picks — mostly French, all geeky — will turn your easter dinner into a palate workout.

five wines cont.

We are the Westside’s first

Green Hair Salon 52

Fortgang did draw the line at one point, though. We asked if he could pair a wine with those puffy yellow marshmallow easter treats, peeps. they are little birds, after all. no can do. “there is no wine for peeps,” he says. “my wife, lauren, who is a pastry chef, makes homemade peeps every easter. But even when they’re house-made and all-natural, they’re not made for wine.” ok, fine. But the following wines were definitely made for food. We’re hoping that the easter bunny hides a couple of these bottles around the house this year.

ok, fine. so there are only four wines in the photo. But that doesn’t mean we can’t count. the fifth wine, a delicious edelzwicker from Belle pente in carlton, is a bulk wine only available at little Bird. Just one more reason to stop by.

foR stARteRs

witH AsPARAGUs

you can’t take this aperitif home, but we loved its locavore cred so much that we decided to include it anyway. Fortgang sources this custom white blend by the keg from Brian o’Donnell of Belle pente winery in carlton, very much in the tradition of bistros in europe that bring in bulk wine from local vignerons. “it’s beneficial all the way around,” Fortgang says of the arrangement. “it’s as good as any wine that would get shipped across the country in bottles. it’s just skipping a few steps, so we can charge less per glass.” a blend of riesling, pinot gris and muscat, this alsatian-style white

asparagus looks so innocent, but its bitter flavor makes it a bear of a wine match. you can begin to solve the problem with your cooking method. For example, Gabriel rucker makes a roasted asparagus dish with garlic, croutons and manchego, which tones down the pungency of asparagus by bringing salty, savory flavors to the plate. (Get the recipe at mixpdx.com.) But an asparagusfriendly wine match is still in order. it’s best to embrace this tender stalk’s “green character,” as Fortgang does, by pairing it with sauvignon blanc . not just any blanc, mind you, but “one of the most interesting pouilly Fumés i have ever tasted.” Just across the

2009 Belle Oiseau “Edelzwicker” by Belle Pente for Little Bird ($8 per glass or $20 for a half-liter carafe at Little Bird) Kelly Hilligoss

French Hair Cutting Color & Treatments Over 19 years of experience Certified Instructor

MOROC CANOIL

436 SW 13th St.

503.516.5539 www.prima-salon.com

has an intoxicating nose of stone fruit and citrus, and a clean, dry palate. “it makes a great aperitif because it’s both fruit-forward and very bright with acidity,” says Fortgang. “it really gets your palate going.” note: if you want to try an edelzwicker-style wine at home, check out the 2009 hugel alsace “Gentil” ($11.50), a classic composite of gewürztraminer, pinot gris, riesling, muscat and sylvaner.

2009 Gitton Père & Fils “Chantalouettes” Pouilly-Fumé ($26.25)

loire river from sancerre (which we blind-tasted for last month’s issue), pouilly-Fumé is France’s niche region for sauv blanc, producing less wine with “more tension,” as Fortgang puts it. and whether you’re on the fence about sauvignon blanc or completely entranced by it, it’s worth coughing up the change for the Gitton, because this bottle gives a clinic on how the grape really ought to taste. “you get that citrus, gooseberry, minerality and flintiness that is as much in the forefront as the primary fruit,” attests Fortgang. “it’s going to open up your mind to the potential of sauvignon blanc as varietal.” sold.

witH eGGs

2008 Domaine Bru-Baché Jurançon Sec ($19) eggs are another notoriously difficult wine match. “a lot of white wines can be really austere with egg yolk because of the acidity,” Fortgang says. “But a lot of reds can be austere because of the tannins.” the maestro’s solution: a white with slightly lower acidity and the sort of rich, earthy character that you might expect from a red. that is, a dry white — from the southwestern French region of Jurançon, in the foothills of the pyrenees and bordering Basque country — that has some inten-

tional oxidation. While we’re used to the rounder mouth feel of red wines that have been exposed to air through barrelaging, americans tend to distrust signs of oxygen contact in white wine; a gold hue and sherry-like aroma make us think there’s something wrong with it. But in europe, Fortgang says, “oxygen is considered an ingredient. it is one more tool in the hands of the winemaker.” this expression of the obscure gros manseng grape tends to have “deeper color, a rounder texture, nuttier flavors and just more gravitas than a lot of other white wines in a similar price point,” he says. For the best pairing, runny yolks are a must. skip the hard-boiled eggs and serve this for easter brunch alongside a savory eggs Benedict.

witH sPRinG LAmB

2009 Domaine Faury Collines rhodaniennes Syrah ($23.25) What could be better for easter dinner than a cute, cuddly little lamb, rolled in herbs and roasted? serving it with syrah from the northern rhône, that’s what. “syrah and lamb are a classic match; northern rhône syrahs are wines that are all about balance and nuance, acidity and clarity of flavor,” Fortgang says. “there is a brightness to the red fruit, plus a vibrant floral and red pepper character. there’s strength without brute force.” Fortgang’s pick, the “collines rhodaniennes,” is a killer value because it’s a declassified wine. that is, the grapes couldn’t go into philippe Faury’s top-shelf st. Joseph or côte rôtie bottlings

ONLINE ExtrA: Get the recipe for Gabriel Rucker’s Garlic-Roasted Asparagus and find out where to buy these wines at

mixPdx.com

because the vines happen to be just outside the borders of these two communes. so, like a damn fine Willamette Valley pinot noir, this rhône hills syrah is a screaming deal.

witH cHocoLAte BUnnies And cRÈme eGGs

ramos Pinto tawny Por to ($15.75) there are times that call for port, and when the foil wrap comes off the bunny, that’s one of those times. (We won’t even deign to explain why most red and sparkling dry wines are, in general, appallingly bad with chocolate, despite what you might have heard.) But what sort of port? “i would pair a ruby or vintage port with dark chocolate,” says Fortgang. “But because the easter goodies are mostly milk chocolate, they tend to be sweeter and more buttery. so you want a less-austere port, with softer shoulders and rounder edges to match that sweet nuttiness.” that is, a tawny port. again, as with the aforementioned Jurançon sec, it’s all about oxygen. “tawny port goes into barrels for an extended period of time. it’s that aging time and slow interplay with the environment around it that creates that tawny character. rather than dark jammy notes, you get this nutty, maple-y character,” he explains. note: if you’re a real port freak, try the ramos pinto “Quinta de ervamoira” 10-year tawny ($40), a singlevineyard special bottling from the same producer. and for God’s sake, whatever you do, don’t serve it with peeps. £

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walkabout beaumont village BY GRANT BUTLER / PHOTOS BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

[ Top-shelf coffee and great bargain wine lift this old-school strip ]

Jim & Patty’s Coffee One of the great puzzles of the Portland food scene is why Northeast’s Beaumont Village doesn’t have a marquee finedining restaurant. The stretch of Fremont Street between 41st and 50th avenues is just north of Alameda Ridge, one of the city’s toniest neighborhoods, yet most of the restaurants are stalwart institutions like Stanich’s and Amalfi’s that have seen better days. There hasn’t been a destination restaurant here since the owners of the swanky French restaurant Winterborne moved their cooking operation out to the wine country in 2004, where they reincarnated themselves as Cuvée. And the 2009 closure of neighborhood favorite Fife dealt another blow to the scene. While Fremont Street waits for its next great restaurant to arrive, it continues to happily percolate on good coffee, fine wine and the recent addition of several good ethnic options.

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NE FREmoNt st.

NE 50th AvE.

NE 47th AvE.

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NE 42Nd AvE.

Though not technically on Fremont,

1 Ristretto Roasters (3520 N.E. 42nd

Ave., 503-284-6767, ristrettoroasters. com) anchors the village’s west end. The micro-roaster moved into the Winterborne space and soon earned a reputation as one of the best coffee shops in town for its house-roasted single-varietal coffees and, more recently, excellent rustic pastries from Kim Boyce, a cookbook author and former pastry chef at Campanile and Spago. But if you start your explorations at the strip’s east end, you’ll find 2 Jim & Patty’s Coffee (4951 N.E. Fremont St., 503-284-2121, jimandpattys.com). This coffeehouse is owned by Jim and Patty Roberts, who have been a big part of Oregon’s coffee culture since the early 1970s, long before anyone outside of Seattle had even heard of Starbucks. The Robertses owned the acclaimed chain Coffee People in the ’80s and ’90s, before selling it to a corporate coffee chain that

later was snatched up by — sigh! — Starbucks. But the legacy lives on here, where you find framed old photos of their various coffee ventures over the years, plus a display case holding collectible “Road Tour” mugs that at one time were as much a part of Portland’s identity as bicycles and rain. Memory Lane is nice and all that, but the real reason to come here is for the unique coffee drinks, like caramel and peanut butter fudge mochas that live on even though Coffee People faded away. There are lots of little shops along Fremont, and one that would be easy to overlook is 3 Found on Fremont (4743 N.E. Fremont St.; 503-282-2533; foundonfremont.typepad.com). The storefront makes it look like an also-ran antique shop, and when you peer through the windows and spot all the novelty candies (really, does the world need another place to buy Monkey Mints and

barilĂŠ wine & beer

Nob Hill neighborhood

Bu rn sid e

2 NW 24th Ave

r ove est WW

Hand Crafted Stoneware

3 NW Vaughn St

NW Thurman St

NW Quimby St

NW Pettygrove St

NW Kearney St

NW Irving St

NW Hoyt St

NW 22nd Ave

NW Davis St

2281 NW Hoyt St Portland, OR 97210 (corner of 23rd and Hoyt) 503.222.5463

NW Glisan St

NW 22nd Place

NW Everett St

Our unique shop offers the ﬁnest hand-painted European stoneware from Ceramika Artystyczna that is microwave, dishwasher and ovensafe. We also carry linens, antiques and gifts. We welcome your visit and are open everyday between 11am6pm. www.polishpotteryplace.com

NW Northrup St

NW 23rd Ave

7 NW 21st Ave

Salt, Fire & Time Salt, Fire & Time is a Community Supported Kitchen that organizes a weekly pick up of prepared foods sourced locally. We also offer cooking classes and Friday night dinners open to the public. We focus exclusively on nutrient dense, organic foods that help restore your health and our own northwest food heritage. Also available for private parties and catering. Mention MIX and get a free fermented soda! 1902 NW 24th Ave Portland OR 503.208.2758 www.saltﬁreandtime.com

Thinking about changing food for your pet? We carry a large selection of Natural foods for Dogs and Cats. Come and check out our selection of Raw Food such as Nature’s Variety, NW Natural, Primal, Stella & Chewy’s. Here at Nature’s Pet we foster cats from the Columbia Humane Society and try and ﬁnd homes for them. Free underground parking. Open M-F 10 to 7, Saturday 10-6 and Sunday 11 to 5. Stop by and mention this ad for 10% of your entire purchase. 111 NW 21st Ave Portland, OR 503.360.1244 www.naturespetmarket.com

Urban Fondue

Food Front Food Front is NW Portland’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; ﬁne wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate. Whether you’re looking for daily essentials or delightful indulgences, you’ll ﬁnd it at Food Front, naturally. Open 8am-9pm Daily 2375 NW Thurman St. Portland, OR 503.222.5658 www.foodfront.coop

Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients. Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan St (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503.242.1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

Au Salon Au Salon is a full-service Bumble and Bumble hair salon. We have been providing customized hair care in the Nob Hill neighborhood since 1996. We pride ourselves in educating our clients and providing a comfortable family atmosphere. We are now open 7 days a week! To set an appointment please call 503.228.8363 Mention this ad and receive 10% off your service before May 2011. 1211 NW 23rd Ave Portland, OR www.ausalon.com

• Fine bourbon • Classic cocktails • Southern Cuisine 2075 NW Glisan Street Portland, OR (near the corner of NW 21st and Glisan) 503.222.1056 www.popehouselounge.com

Nob Hill Marketplace

Serratto Celebrate the Holidays with us! Gift Certiﬁcates available. Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week. Parking in our lot on NW Johnson St. 2112 NW Kearney St. Portland OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lindsayg@sales.oregonian.com

walkabout / beaumont village Cont.

Found on Fremont bacon-flavored gum?) you might be tempted to keep on walking. But enter and head immediately to the second floor, where the real treasures await. You’ll find retro cocktail shakers and glasses, silver-plated chafing dishes, vintage canning supplies and even cast-iron cookware with decades’ worth of use left in them. When it’s time for a snack, the just-opened second outpost of 4 hoda’s middle Eastern Cuisine (4727 N.E. Fremont St.; 503-6885577; hodas.com) is a worthy pit stop. It’s smaller than the original Southeast Belmont location, but like the original, the menu features incredible fried falafel, fresh hummus and rolled grape leaves filled with rice and either veggies or meat. If you’re hungry, focus on entrees such as the $11.50 lamb shawarma plate, which is loaded with hunks of New Zealand lamb that’s been marinated in 13 spices, or the $9.50 bamie plate, featuring

blackbird wine Shop

a vegan dish of sautéed okra with tomato sauce, cilantro, garlic and onions. You can have a glass of wine at Hoda’s, but the offerings are meager compared to what you’ll find at two nearby wine bars. First, there’s 5 Barilé Wine & Beer (4759 N.E. Fremont St.; 503-284-2795; barilewineandbeer. com), a nighttime destination where customers hunker down at cozy tables for light bites like marinated olives or bruschetta topped with

tangy tomatoes and basil. Sandwiches, which run $7 to $9, include grilled prosciutto and brie stuffed with slivers of apple, or a veggie sandwich loaded with hummus and cucumbers. By-the-glass pours are limited to about 15, but choices range from Oregon pinot noirs and California merlots to tempranillos from Spain and Australian shiraz. 6 Blackbird Wine shop; {503-282-1887; blackbirdwine.com) may well be the coolest business operating on Fremont right now

Hoda’s middle eastern Cuisine

— especially for wine lovers on a budget. Its carefully curated stock is loaded with bottles priced $15 and below, most accompanied by personalized descriptions explaining why they’re worth uncorking. But the real pleasure comes from enjoying one of the 10 wines that are available by the glass, priced $6 to $8, along with a plate of charcuterie and cheese from the side venture, Atomic Cheese. Options include salumi from Olympic Provisions, plates with truffle mousse pâté and sampler plates of blue cheese from around the world. Sit at one of the bars made out of recycled wood with something from the France’s Rhone Valley and a few nibbles, and your brain is bound to start humming along with the jazz playing on the sound system. Maybe this is where you’ll hatch your own idea for the great destination restaurant that Beaumont Village needs so badly. £

NE Fremont Street NE Prescott NE 24th Ave

NE 18th Ave

NE 13th Ave

NE 7th Ave

NE Martin Luther King Jr Blvd

NE Fremont

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Irving Street Park

99W NE Knott

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B A GE L LAND Acadia adia Acadia, a New Orleans Bistro features the heartfelt cooking of Cajun country right here in Portland! House smoked meats and sausages, fresh gulf shrimp, crab, oysters, catﬁsh and crawﬁsh are featured every night, and our bar is always stocked with New Orleans favorites like the Sazerac and Hurricane!

Perry’s on Fremont A N.E. Fremont and Portland favorite since 1972, POF is a “ mom and pop” offering small plates, sandwiches, vegetarian, and comforting entrees, cocktails, Happy Hour, beautiful desserts and a lovely patio to enjoy all during warmer months.

Join us for dinner soon! Reservations recommended.

2401 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.287.3655 www.perrysonfremont.com

1303 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.249.5001 www.creolapdx.com 2

Blackbird Wine Atomic Cheese

Bagel Land Since 1979 Bagel Land has been a locally owned family run business in the heart of the Beaumont/Wilshire neighborhood. We offer over 20 varieties of water boiled bagels baked fresh daily and serve a variety of breakfast bagels and sandwiches.

Carefully hand selected, unique wines made by small, gifted producers from around the world.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-3pm Sat & Sun 7am-3pm

To-stay or to-go, happiness is inevitable

We also offer a delectable array of international artisan cheeses, meats and excellent fresh bread to complete the picture. 4323 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.821.9188 www.blackbirdwine.com

4118 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.249.2848 4

Noho’s Hawaiian Cafe

2011 Happy Hour of the Year, by Portland Happy Hour Guidebook

Aloha! Noho’s Hawaiian Cafe has been wowing Oregon diners with authentic Hawaiian “plate lunch” foods since 1992. From our awesome spicy Korean chicken to our killer macaroni salad to our Kalua pork, everyday here on Fremont we prepare everything from scratch. Choose portions: “menehune” (small), medium and “Blalah” (bring a forklift). Or ask about our family-style meals. Whether at one of our down-home, surf’s-up cafes or at your own Noho’scatered event, we promise you’ll leave happy and never hungry!

4703 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.284.6747 www.amalﬁsrestaurant.com

4627 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.445.664 www.nohos.com

Amalfi’s Soluna Restaurant & Bar • Globally inﬂuenced NW Cuisine • Early & Late Night Happy Hour • Monthly Supper Clubs Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour 6 days a week Sunday Brunch 9am-2pm 4440 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR (corner of 45th & NE Fremont) 971.222.3433 www.solunagrill.com

Established in 1959, Amalfi’s is legendary for the best pizza in Portland, casual Italian cuisine and unique cocktail recipes. Whether you’re in the mood for a pizza and beer or an outstanding entree and fine wine, Amalfi’s offers a quality dining experience in a casual non-pretentious environment. Fireside dining in the bar or on the outdoor piazza. *

NE Fremont Marketplace

Doc Georges Jazz Kitchen • Live Jazz - No Cover Wednesday thru Sunday. • Comfortable Bistro Dining featuring Creole Specialties. • Proud to serve certiﬁed Angus Beef and local, seasonal produce. Open Wednesday - Sunday Lunch 11:30 am • Happy Hour 2-6pm Dinner Nightly. Full Bar. 4605 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.287.7067 www.docgeorgesjazzkitchen.com

NE Fremont Street NE Prescott NE 47th Ave

NE 46th Ave

NE 45th Ave

NE 44th Ave

NE 43rd Ave

NE 42nd Ave

NE 33rd Ave

Wilshire Park

NE Fremont

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Camellia Pure Beauty Since 1984, Gazelle natural fibre clothing has been delighting customers with timeless quality clothing, and a wonderful selection of jewelry, accessories and gifts. In 2006, Full Circle Resale was born with a natural fiber focus and amazing treasures in store. Treat Yourself! Gazelle Natural Fibre Clothing www.gazellenaturalfibreclothing.com

4807 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.284.8294 www.achildrensplacebookstore.com

Family owned and operated, Beaumont Market has been providing great products and outstanding service since 1988. In-house meat cutter, beer and wine stewards, highest quality produce, fresh ﬂowers and gifts are just a few of the reasons that Beaumont Market is a great choice for your shopping needs.

All of our 30+ skincare, cosmetics and body care lines are free from petroleum products, sodium lauryl sulfate, phthalates, parabens and artiﬁcial fragrances.

Meet Nikki McClure, author of To Market, To Market, a lovingly crafted (and community-minded) picture book following a mother and son to their weekly farmer’s market! Saturday, May 14th. A Children’s Place Bookstore has been helping raise young readers for more than 30 years. See our wonderful selection from picture books to young adult - and even some great ﬁction and non-ﬁction picks for Mom & Dad! View our website for story hours and author events as well!

Beaumont Market

It is our mission to convince product junkies that great bath and beauty products don’t have to contain junk.

4759 NE Fremont Street “B” Portland, OR 503.287.4645 www.camelliapurebeauty.com

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4130 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.284.3032 12

Alexander’s Goldworks

Lucca

Fine European craftsmanship offering design and repair of gold and silver jewelry.

Lucca is a neighborhood favorite, serving up wood-ﬁred Italian inspired farm-fresh handcrafted meals, cocktails and desserts in hip, yet casual digs.

Visit our showroom to see all of our jewelry, painting and glass art.

Must have: funghi pizza with trufﬂe oil and an egg!

Established 1987

Lunch, brunch, dinner and happy hour!

4727 NE Fremont Street Portland, OR 503.282.1330

3449 NE 24th at Fremont Portland, OR 503.287.7372 www.Luccapdx.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Josh Frickle at 503.294.4127 or jfrickle@oregonian.com

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Steamboat Inn Located along Oregon’s North Umpqua River. Great accommodation, food and wine. Perennial gardens, hiking & waterfalls, fly-fishing, a highly-acclaimed guest chef and winemaker dinner program. Close to Crater Lake National Park.

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pubcrawl [ Darts, yeast and a particularly Portland beer fest ]

By JoHN FoysToN / PHoTogRAPHy By ToRsTEN kJELLsTRANd t’s not enough that brewers have to commit to memory the bewildering profusion of hop varieties and types of malted grain. It’s not enough that they have to control temperatures and times as precisely as a baker and obsess about cleanliness like a surgeon. It’s not enough that they have to know the beer styles of the world and the recipes to go with them. No, if they want to be part of the yearly brewers’ carnival known as “Portland’s Cheers to Belgian Beers,” they also have to be able to hit a dartboard. “Listen up,” shouts brewer Van Havig in a voice well suited for soliciting the attention of 40 chatty brewers with pints in their paws. They were gathered in front

of the dartboards at the Horse Brass Pub on a January night that threatened snow. “Each brewery gets one dart toss. If you hit the outer ring, you’ll brew a beer of 6 percent alcohol or less. Inner ring means you’ll brew a beer of more than 6 percent alcohol. If you hit a light segment, you’ll brew amber or lighter. Hit a dark segment and you’ll brew a darker beer. Any bull’s-eye means you get to brew whatever you want — and if you miss the board, you’ll be jeered until all our throats are raw.” For the record, there were no bull’s-eyes and several complete misses, each accompanied by many decibels of good-natured brewerly scorn … even for a beer pioneer as revered as Rob Widmer. “Man, the last time I threw

pubcrawl cont.

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darts,” he said, “we were kids in the basement and we were throwing just to see how deep we could sink them into the wood.” With a throw of the darts, each brewer gets a rough sketch of the beer he is to brew: dark and strong; light and strong; dark and moderate; or light and moderate. They can make the beers with whatever ingredients they wish except for one thing — the yeast. All brewers must use one particular strain of Belgian yeast, which is picked every year by the winner of the previous year’s people’s choice award. Nick Arzner of Block 15 Brewery in Corvallis won last year, and he chose Trappist High gravity, a classic strain often used for brewing Belgian dubbels and tripels, which means it can survive a lot of alcohol and make a strong beer of 11 percent or so. (It also requires a lot of head space — there are all manner of tales out there of explosions with this yeast.) To bakers and vintners, yeast is pretty much yeast, but to brewers, it’s yet another flavor dimension. oregon-based Wyeast Laboratories can supply brewers with nearly 60 strains of yeast to make anything from a pale lager to a rich, malty doppelbock. And Belgian yeasts are a special subset among brewers’ yeasts because of the amazing flavors, phenols and funkiness they create. Bubble gum, banana, cloves, barnyard funk and horse blanket are just a few of the more common words used to describe the flavor and aroma of these beers. “I was scared to death and excited when I first brewed with a Belgian yeast 15 years ago,” says Jerry Fechter of the Lompoc breweries and pubs. “Nobody was using those yeasts, and there was always the fear that once you got the yeast in your system, you’d never get rid of it. sheer fear turned into sheer excitement when the

beer was good, and then sheer relief a month or so later when the rest of your beers weren’t turning into Belgians.” It’s those amazing yeasts, and the flavors and aromas they contribute, that make Belgian beers so intriguing — and so challenging for the average beer drinker to embrace. And that’s how PCBB was born. Just five years ago Havig (who was head brewer at Rock Bottom Brewery until recently, when an investment company bought it) and Craig Nichols of Roots were drinking some Belgian beers and lamenting their scarcity in the Portland marketplace. They brainstormed with some other brewers and came up with the idea of a small festival devoted to Belgian beers all made with a single yeast, with the proceeds going to the favorite charity of the winning brewer. “It was really a festival put together by a bunch of brewers who just wanted to make Belgians, and show them off to the Portland beer public,” Havig says. “We all liked drinking them, we all liked making them, and we realized that unless we did something about people’s preferences and education, there wouldn’t be much of a chance for us to do either of those things.” Brian Butenschoen of the

“I was scared to death and excited when I first brewed with a Belgian yeast 15 years ago,” — Jerry Fechter

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oregon Brewers guild, which helps sponsor the event, says 11 brewers poured 11 beers at the first Portland Cheers to Belgian Beers, held at the Rock Bottom Brewery in April 2007. Last year, 31 breweries made 32 beers for the event at Hopworks Urban Brewery. This year, more than 40 breweries and several home brewers tossed their darts to brew beers for the festival. “What’s really amazing to me is not that we held the first event,” Havig says. “That amounted to calling our friends, convincing them to make a beer, sharing the yeast and then slapping up a few jockey boxes on an off night at the Rock Bottom. What’s amazing is that it’s continued to happen for five years now.” The dart throw didn’t make an appearance until the second year, Havig says, “when we realized that some yeast strains really lent themselves to a particular style. That year, we used the La Chouffe strain, and it seemed like more than half the beers were Belgian goldens in the 6 percent-plus alcohol range. Then Ben Flerchinger (of the Lucky Lab Beer Hall) came up with the genius idea of the dart throw, which cleverly solves that problem.” The dart throw has also become the winter social for brewers, as was evident from the happy, rowdy crowd this year at the Horse Brass. And its spirited camaraderie exem-

plifies what Portland Cheers to Belgian Beers is all about, Havig says. “It’s really cool that it started as a truly brewerdriven event — no marketing companies, no real organization, no attempt at making any money except for charity. Plus, it’s genuinely educational, since it allows the public to see the influence that a yeast strain can have on beer.” Ben Love of Hopworks says the emphasis on a single yeast and its effects appeals to brewers’ inner geeks. “It’s a great opportunity for us to geek out about yeast,” Love says, “and it’s also a good example of how the brewing community in Portland is just that: We get together and share pitchers and talk technique and we all get along and make good beer.” And every year, they have to step up to that unforgiving dartboard. “My favorite thing is brewers coming to the line and saying, ‘I’m supposed to throw light and low’ or whatever,” Havig says. “Come on! None of us are dart league people, we just need to hit the damn board — just shut up and throw the dart so we can get back to drinking beer!” £ The 2011 Portland’s Cheers to Belgian Beers Festival is noon-9 p.m. Saturday, April 30, at Metalcraft Fabrication (it’s not as weird as it sounds; they make brewing equipment), 723 N. Tillamook St. For more info: oregonbeer.org/pctbb

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4650 SW Macadam Ave. ~ Portland, OR 97239 503-802-5850 • www.aquarivaportland.com

Lunch M-F 11am-2:30pm ~ Dinner Nightly at 5pm-10:30pm ~ Sunday Brunch 10am-3pm

LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

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1st St

3rd St

A Ave

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4th St

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Country Club Rd

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I-5

7th St

Kerr Parkway

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Lakewood Bay 3

Portland’s Only Olive Oil Bar® Store! Taste before you buy!

Accessories from the Heart Accessories from the Heart has provided customers a wide selection of decorative, functional, must-have accessories at wonderfully affordable prices since 1998. Accessories from the Heart, where customers become girlfriends on a daily basis! 10 AM - 6 PM Monday - Friday 10 AM - 5 PM Saturday

A cozy Italian hideaway with all the best ﬂavors of Italian style foods made with fresh Paciﬁc NW ingredients, complimented by a selection of artisanal Italian wines. Pasta favorites, organic quality meats, and fresh seafood prepared in our open kitchen await you at Tucci Ristorante. Salute!!!

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• Sample Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Aged Balsamics, and Nut Oils, all hand-bottled to order. • A unique selection of gourmet foods: balsamic sauces, pastas, stuffed olives, and more!

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Need a gift idea? Come into the store and create the perfect gift for that special someone. We ship anywhere in the U.S. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-4 438 1st Street • 503.675.6457 www.oilerie.com/lakeoswego.php

Gift Certiﬁcates Available Lunch and Dinner Open seven days a week 670 N. State Street, Lake Oswego 503.697.0779

Find us on Facebook 7

THE ARTISAN CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

Dyke has been een creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dyke’s custom jewelry, the showroom also features ﬁne quality designer jewelry from around the world. We hope your visit to our showroom will be one of the most satisfying jewelry experiences you will ever have. Hours: Tue-Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-4pm 27 “A” Avenue • 503.636.4025 www.vandenburghjewelers.com

With more than 40 years experience, our creative and dedicated team will help you choose the perfect design to best enhance your artwork and compliment your decor. Using hand-cut mats, museum glass, and hundreds of unique all-wood or metal frames, we work to insure our clients complete satisfaction. WE ARE NOT SATISFIED UNTIL YOU ARE! 267 A Avenue 503.635.4590 www.artisanframinglo.com

Lake Oswego Marketplace

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To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com

eat here / spokane

[ Alpine scenery, luxe hotels and restaurants, and lots of new twists on the martini ]

by Kris Wetherbee / Photos by torsten Kjellstrand

t first glance it’s easy to see why this eastern Washington city is lauded for its natural beauty. Step in any direction and you’ll discover an outstanding park system, more than 4,100 acres of protected greenspaces and a rushing river all within eyeshot of some of the most amazing alpine scenery around. Yet this easy-going city has a distinctly urban skyline. Here, 280 miles east of Seattle and just 18 miles from the Idaho border, you’ll find nature seamlessly mixed with stellar architecture, swank restaurants and bars, and award-winning wineries.

rockwood bakery Fuel up and Head Out

start your morning at Rockwood Bakery (315 e. 18th ave.; 509-7478691), a spacious but cozy neighborhood spot tucked away on a tree-lined residential street. the eclectic atmosphere includes an inviting mix of mismatched antique tables and chairs, comfy couches and some of the best coffee around. Glass cases are filled with indulgent european-style pastries, tasty scones, dinner-plate-sized cinnamon rolls, massive muffins, killer quiches, and croissants both savory and sweet. but leave your laptop behind, as the one thing this bakery doesn’t offer is internet access. after breakfast head out to what is arguably spokane’s most notable attraction — Riverfront park (507 n. howard st.; 509-625-6601; spokaneriverfrontpark.com). the 100acre, family-friendly park was home to the 1974 World’s Fair expo, which was the first to be environmentally themed. jump on the gondola skyride and get carried away over spokane Falls, one of the largest urban waterfalls in the United states. ride the 1909 historic hand-carved wooden looff Carrousel. or you can

hike, bike or skate the Centennial trail — a 37-mile-long paved pathway that follows the spokane river to the idaho border and beyond.

HeRe’s tHe BeeF top off your day with some surf and turf at Churchill’s steakhouse (165 s. Post; 509-474-9888; churchillssteakhouse.com). a sophisticated atmosphere, rich mahogany interior and tables dressed in white linen and crystal now rule the restaurant after reopening for dinner last spring following a destructive three-alarm fire. the steaks are dry-aged for tenderness and then seared at 1,800 degrees to create a caramelized crust. For fish lovers, the halibut

Churchill’s steakhouse

pairs wonderfully with a glass of Pacific rim riesling from Columbia Valley — a delightful bliss of crisp apple on the palate followed by lingering undertones of caramel on the finish. For dessert, take note — the Five-layer Coconut Cake is worth every calorie.

GRand OpulenCe one of spokane’s historic treasures is the davenport Hotel and tower (10 s. Post st.; 1-800899-1482 or 509-455-8888; thedavenporthotel.com), a magnificently restored 1914 hotel in the heart of the city’s shopping and arts districts. the second floor’s Grand Pennington ballroom, with its regal chandeliers and opera-style balcony, is especially stunning,

riverfront Park

particularly its hall of the doges Foyer, which was inspired by the doge’s Palace in Venice, italy. the hotel has three award-winning restaurants, including the Palm Court Grill (509-789-6848), noted for its prime rib and the city’s best Champagne sunday brunch. it’s also home to the original Crab louis salad.

BeeR amOnG tHe BOileRs For another historic landmark with a one-two punch of amazing architecture and great food, check out the steam plant Grill (159 s. lincoln st.; 509-777-3900; steamplantgrill.com). it’s an easy find — just look for the twin 225-foot brick smokestacks towering amid the skyline. the restaurant is situated among the catwalks, pipes and original boilers that once generated heat for most of spokane’s downtown buildings. start with the steamed clams, made with the restaurant’s Centennial Pale ale, or the scottish black bean Chili, featuring skirt steak that’s been simmered in the scottish ale. alongside burgers (the Gorgonzola burger is particularly good) there are more creative options, like Chipotle Citrus

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Pork Chops brined in a mixture of honeymoon Wheat ale, new Mexico chiles, cumin and a touch of smoked chili sea salt. duck more your game? the Mahogany duck is marinated in a blend of scotch, soy sauce, orange juice and ginger. and for handcrafted beer with a unique twist, try the Vanilla bourbon stout, a dark, rich, full-bodied stout with undertones of espresso and chocolate mixed with vanilla bean and bourbon flavors.

niGHt liFe spokane has a hip, urban night life ranging from pool halls, comedy clubs and supper clubs with live jazz, to ballet, broadway and swanky martini joints. one of the swankiest is Bistango martini lounge (108 n. Post st.; 509-624-8464; bistangolounge.com), a hot spot among locals. the luxe lounge offers about a dozen Mediterranean-inspired small plate selections and more than 200 premium liquors, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best known for its menu of 30-plus specialty martinis. at the other end of the spectrum is the greasy-spoon satellite diner &

lounge (425 W. sprague ave.; 509-624-3952; satellitediner.com), offering 100 kinds of martinis and, even better, a full food menu available until 4 a.m.

Lloyd Center Tower building

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a City WitHin tHe City the newly expanded northern Quest Resort & Casino (100 n. hayford road; 1-888603-7051; northernquest.com) is a destination all its own, with a 250-room hotel and an entertainment complex boasting 14 restaurants and lounges, including a high-end cigar lounge. hungry sports fans should hit the Q â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the Ultimate sports experience, where games are shown on a giant, 30-foot media wall. For fine dining, Masselowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impressive lobby features traditional and not-so-traditional northwest cuisine using ingredients grown and produced from regional farmers, ranchers and artisans. two outstanding entrees worthy of an encore include scallops Capellini with oregon pear eau de vie and braised

ArtBa r

eat here / spokane cont.

& bistro

celeriac, and the peppercrusted Kurobuta Pork Prime Chop. For dessert, the everchanging seasonal soufflé is always worth ordering.

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~visit www.pcpa.com for a calendar of events~

drinks | appetizers | full menu | desserts

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Beaverton Coming Soon!

FEEL GREAT!

Check out the newly restored Fox theater (1001 W. sprague st.; 509-624-5994; foxtheaterspokane.com). the 1931 art deco theater hosts the inspirational music of the spokane symphony as well as other acts throughout the season. the regional performing arts center shuts down for july and august. among spokane’s other vintage finds is Finders Keepers (309 W. second ave.; 509-8384590), a local fan favorite for its colossal collection of glitzy and glamorous clothing and jewelry. on spokane’s south hill is manito park and Gardens (1800 s. Grand blvd.; 509-6256622; thefriendsofmanito.org). Grab a bite to eat at the Picnic bench in the park, then stroll 90 acres of peaceful settings

that include a european renaissance-style garden, a japanese garden, rose hill, a perennial garden, conservatory and duck pond. head over for a tour and a taste at dry Fly distilling (1003 e. trent st., no. 200; 509-4892112; dryflydistilling.com). the first legal grain distillery in Washington state since 1918, dry Fly distills vodka, gin and whiskey using 99 percent Washington-grown ingredients, including locally grown grains and botanicals. Wine tasting in spokane is a must, as the city is home to over a dozen wineries — including such notables as arbor Crest and barrister — and almost all have tasting rooms within a few blocks of each other downtown. the wines here are made from grapes in the Walla Walla, yakima and Columbia Valley appellations, which means there are plenty of intense reds and crisp whites to chose from. For a map, visit spokanewineries.net. £

Albina Ave

Killingsworth St

Mississippi Ave

Michigan Ave

North Mississippi Ave. Emerson St

Alberta St 4

Lorenzo’s Ristorante Italiano

Humboldt St Blandena St

Lorenzo’s offers a variety of standard and family inspired food. Dine in this classic, yet casual environment and allow our staff to guide you through some of Portland’s best Italian food.

Prescott St

Skidmore St

Trebol 4835 N. Albina Avenue Portland, OR 503.517.9347 www.trebolpdx.com

3807 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.284.6200 www.lorenzospdx.com

Williams Ave

Mississippi Ave

Mason St

Vancouver Ave

Interstate Ave

Lorenzo’s uses local hormone free meats, imported and domestic cheeses and cured meats.

Shaver St

Failing St 3 6

Beech St 2

Mississippi Ave

Come and enjoy the heavenly marriage of vanilla bean ice cream, dulce sauce and rosemary pecans in a sundae. We take pride in using locally sourced and handmade ingredients. Specialities include homemade ice cream sandwiches, two vegan and 12 small batch ﬂavors.

Come to Sunlan Playroom and get lit. Experience light bulbs that create sunlight to help you feel better. Find fun bulbs, colored bulbs, fancy shaped bulbs, bulbs that Edison might have made, and all the other bulbs you need to keep your home and ofﬁce bright.

Fremont St

Ruby Jewel

Sunlan Lighting and The Lightbulb Lady

Hours: 8-5:30 M-F • 10-5 Sat.

Portland’s newest location for small batch artisan ice cream cones, sundaes and sandwiches.

3901 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.281.0453 www.sunlanlighting.com

3713 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.505.9314 www.rubyjewel.net

New Vintage Beauty Lounge Mr. Green Beans Mr. Green Beans is Portland’s headquarters for Do-It-Yourself Domestic arts. We carry everything for roasting your own coffee, making your own cheese and soap, canning and preserving, cultures and starters and much more. We also have a full line of classes to get you started. 3932 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.288.8698 www.mrgreenbeanspdx.com

Check out our new bicycle jerseys!!!

We’re a laid back but stylish alternative to sterile salons and cosmetic counters. We invite you to sip on wine, champagne, beer, or French press coffee while picking out that perfect lipstick or getting your dream haircut. Featuring products by: FACE STOCKHOLM, SUSAN POSNICK, SOMME INSTITUTE, LIP FUSION, MOROCCAN OIL, KEVIN MURPHY, SACHAJUAN + MORE.

832 N. Beech Street Portland, OR 503.281.7708 www.amnesiabrew.com

3864 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.327.8442 www.newvintagebeautylounge.com

Amnesia Brewing Amnesia Brewing now serving Imperial ESB, come enjoy a pint in our huge beer garden on the corner of Beech and Mississippi. Coming soon, The Red Handed Red Ale, a smooth, balanced refreshing,not too heavy spring beer.

Mississippi Marketplace

Pin-Me Apparel Pin-Me Apparel is a boutique that carries interesting and well thought out items from small independent designers to more established design studios. Pin-Me is constantly sourcing new and innovative design lines and stocking well made quality and diverse styles. Pin Me is sure to have a little something for everyone. 3705 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.281.1572 www.pin-me-apparel.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Josh Frickle at 503.294.4127 or jfrickle@oregonian.com

scene

El Gaucho

our picks for what to eat where

Get more of the Portland scene, at mixPdx.com

Beast 5425 N.E. 30th Ave. 503-841-6968 beastpdx.com Naomi Pomeroy runs a restaurant that’s both intimate and communal. You sit at long tables, and some of your pleasure depends on your neighbors, but the guests tend to be knowledgeable food mavens, so there’s inevitably good conversation. Since everyone is eating the same food, the meal itself is the verbal centerpiece. The dinner, whose menu changes weekly and is

Brazil Grill 1201 S.W. 12th Ave. 503-222-0002 brazilgrillrestaurant.com Long ago, giant carnivores roamed Earth, eating massively without menus or valet parking. We’ve come a long way: At Brazil Grill, a dozen varieties of meat roam the restaurant, the food chain conveniently reversed. The south Brazilian style is called churrasco. Waiters prowl the dining room serving beef, lamb, pork and poultry, and as long as

THE

Now Serving

Beer & Wine Also Find Us At

MADNESS

1708 E. Burnside Ave. 503.230.WING (9464) 4225 N. Interstate Ave. 503.280.WING (9464) www.portlandwings .com

April 29, 30 & May 1st

PHOTOGRAPH BY RANDY L. RASMUSSEN

PARAGU S

VEGAN & VEGETARIAN TAMALES

40 varieties of gourmet tamales

Taste the Difference

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Astoria Crab & Seafood Festival

El Gaucho 319 S.W. Broadway 503-227-8794. elgaucho.com Even before you get the check, it’s clear there’s something special in this Portland branch of two Seattle-area steakhouses. The atmosphere and service are lavish: live flamenco guitar music and showy tableside preparations flavor the dining room with romance, and the menu is the size of a freeway sign. (At least it fits the NBA players staying at The Benson Hotel, who often hang out here.) If you get too venturesome in ordering, the food may not quite match the moment. Focus instead on the terrific steaks — easily the

RM FA

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you keep the round plastic cue on your table showing green, they’ll keep stopping and slicing. The list includes marinated skirt steak, sausages, chicken drumsticks, turkey wrapped in bacon, shrimp, ham, sausages, marinated lamb loin and pineapple, which responds quite well to being skewered and roasted. Anything that doesn’t work for you can just be pushed to the side of your plate and someone will bring around something else. The major concern is that several trips around the dining room can dry out some of the options, but even that risk can be avoided by going on Friday or Saturday, when Brazil Grill gets busy and the average cut’s trip from flame to plate is at a sprinter’s pace.

Places where protein is the focal point of the plate

responsive to the seasons, is completely set, and it’s usually a 21⁄2-hour affair, beautifully paced with superb service. Pomeroy’s cooking is inspired by French grandmothers, with touches rustic and elegant.

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scene highest-quality you’ll find in town — plus the stately Caesar salad, spicy shrimp and elaborate desserts such as bananas Foster and cherries jubilee, which are flamed to order for a dramatic finish. Laurelhurst Market 3155 E. Burnside St. 503-206-3097 laurelhurstmarket.com Legions of loyalists know the many virtues of this place: an informal space that buzzes with energy; the sure hand of the folks who taught Portland its meat chops at Viande and Simpatica; sizzling, reasonably priced cuts of beef; and fascinating ingredients such as saba (a thick syrupy liquid made from the “must” of grapes), black (fermented) garlic, ham-hock broth and salbitxada (a spicy tomato, paprika and almond sauce). The attraction, of course, is the meat — it’s also a butcher shop, after all. While the stars of high-end steakhouses are filet mignons, top sirloins and porterhouses, at Laurelhurst you tuck into hanger, flatiron, tri-tip, bavette and culotte — chewy, intensely flavorful cuts from cows raised on pasture grasses — relatively inexpensive steaks for a downsized economy, with surprising gains in pleasure. Podnah’s Pit 1625 N.E. Killingsworth St. 503-281-3700 podnahspit.com Podnah’s recently moved into a new space that’s twice the size of its original Prescott hole-inthe-wall, but pitmaster Rodney

Muirhead continues to turn out barbecue so good it could turn even the most self-righteous vegan into a shameless carnivore — at least for a spell. This is pure central-Texas style — no tangy or sweet sauces, it’s all about the smoke. By the time you push away from your plate, know this: Juice and fat and sauce will run in rivers off your fingers and chin; a pile of used napkins will mount; and the smile on your face will be as wide as your belly.

Coffee klatch Unique places to gather with fellow java junkies

The Albina Press 5012 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. 4637 N. Albina Ave. 503-282-5214 At the upper Hawthorne location, coffee hounds work their laptops at bar seats overlooking the espresso machines, or along the picture windows in the front of the shop. Nearby is a trophy case loaded with prizes that owner Kevin Fuller has won at regional and national barista competitions. And here’s a refreshing twist: Instead of playing mopey music by the Shins and the Decemberists — standard audio fare at almost every Southeast coffee spot — they play Johnny Cash and Dolly Parton without a whiff of irony. The mood is similar at the rough-around-the-edges original location on North Albina, where baristas churn out strong, PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

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Barista 539 N.W. 13th Ave. 1725 N.E. Alberta St. 503-274-1211 baristapdx.com For coffee drinks, Barista sets the gold standard. Award-winning barista Billy Wilson’s Pearl District and Alberta Street coffee bars are the place for discovering espresso’s wide range of flavor. At any given time, three espresso blends are available, from top roasters like Portland’s Stumptown, Chicago’s Intelligentsia and Santa Rosa, Calif.’s, Ecco Caffe. Shots are pulled with a scientist’s precision, then artfully incorporated into foamed milk. Pair your favorite with one of the buttery croissants or berry scones from Nuvrei Pastries. At the tiny Pearl location, there are only a few tables. At the much larger Alberta offshoot, there’s ample seating (plus a cool counter that overlooks the espresso machines), and big windows for watching sidewalk foot traffic. Heart Coffee Roaster 2211 E. Burnside St. 503-206-6602 heartroasters.com A coffee haunt that sets hearts racing. With the roaster smackdab in the middle of the shop, Wille Yil-Luomo turns green beans into smoky perfection. Because he produces coffee in small batches, the baristas here can adjust how they pull espresso shots, allowing for the quirks and eccentricities of each individual roast. The mad-scientist approach, combined with the Scandinavian decor, makes you want to linger over a latte — complete with a heart-shaped pattern in the foam. Spella Caffé 520 S.W. Fifth Ave. 503-752-0264 spellacaffe.com Coffee maven Andrea Spella began serving Roman-style coffee drinks out of a downtown cart and developed such a following that he was able to move the operation to a small bricks-and-mortar storefront last year. The secret to Spella’s success rests with the

beans, which he personally roasts in small batches to control quality. What results are shots of ambrosial espresso that the baristas here turn into picture-perfect cappuccinos and lattes. Drinks are the focus, so coffee break options like pastries and cookies are practically nil. One other drawback: the shop is open only weekdays. Water Avenue Coffee Company 1028 S.E. Water Ave. 503-232-2222 wateravenuecoffee.com The large open space that was the original location of The Q Center was transformed last year into one of the best new additions to the city’s coffee scene: Water Avenue Coffee Company. In the morning, sunshine streams through the south-facing windows, while laptoppers plug into the counter overlooking the shop’s coffee bean roasters. Order your drink under the dizzying glow of the blue neon “Coffee” sign, then head to the back of the shop to check out the action. If you’re lucky, you’ll be there when the raw beans are poured into one of the two carefully restored roasters and then tumbled until they’re dark and rich. The smallbatch boutique roasts are bagged up and dated with an “I was born on” label. A roasting date beats a “best by” expiration date any day.

On the cheap Where to go when you’re low on dough.

C Burger Northwest Couch Street, between Third and Fourth avenues 503-206-8866 cburgerpdx.com Located in Old Town, conveniently close to Voodoo Doughnut, C Burger is a hole in the wall — not because it’s a nasty speck of a place. It is literally a hole in the wall, made by enterprising people at Couture Ultra Lounge who simply opened the back door to their kitchen and shoved a makeshift counter where the door used to be, leaving a hole just big enough for you to place your take-out order. Options are limited to five burgers, three drinks and two sides, with the best being the chix (restaurant-speak for chicken) burger ($8). It’s a perfectly cooked

scene chicken breast served with a generous spoonful of bright tomato jam, thick slices of meaty applewood bacon, a dollop of creamy aioli and two cheeses. The wan English muffin cradling it — and all the burgers — adds little taste or texture, but the interior of the sandwich is a hearty, satisfying balance of sweet and meaty, creamy and tart, proving the adage the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Hawaiian Time 19502 Molalla Ave., Oregon City 505 N.W. 14th Ave., Portland 10565 S.W. Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton It’s in the Pearl, it’s in Oregon City and one just opened in Beaverton, exciting Hawaii-philes all over the metro area. But this joint is Hawaiian in the same sense that a burger joint is American: It sticks strictly to variations on a single theme. Even then, Hawaiian Time has stripped variations of the “plate lunch” down to the basics of meat, rice and macaroni salad — there’s no fish of any kind, and veggies are a

As barbecued chicken pizzas go, it sure beats California Pizza Kitchen. Pizzas run from around $15 for a small to about $30 for an extra large.

little hard to find. Spam? Never mind. But the food is decent enough and fills a gap in the local quick-dining scene. Beef eaters fare best here, with four kinds of cow, including a tender Korean-style Honolulu Plate ($8.95). Chicken is represented twice. Pork lovers get only one option, but it’s a nice one — moist Kalua Pig ($7.95) that’s been slow-cooked in a crockpot overnight. The macaroni salad ($2 on its own) has a nice peppery kick. All entrees come in three sizes: regular, “dakine” (small, no macaroni salad) and “alii” (double portions of the sides). Juliano’s Pizza 15606 S.E. Mill Plain Blvd., Vancouver 360-254-1286

julianospizza.com If it’s pizza you’re after, and you don’t want to head all the way to Twilight Pizza Bistro in downtown Camas, head to Juliano’s, known for its incredibly generous helpings of meat, vegetables and cheese. Taken on its own, the crust is pretty boring. But as part of the whole, its utilitarian aspect properly supports all those toppings. Juliano’s decor is a mix of Grateful Dead memorabilia and stereotypically Italian staples such as Rat Pack posters. That also gives you a good idea of the menu, which runs from the traditional to the adventurous. The Santa Fe uses sweet, tangy barbecue sauce for the base of a pizza that also includes roasted chicken, red onions, black olives and red peppers.

Had enough?

The Peoples’ Sandwich of Portland 53 N.W. First Ave. 503-222-0525 sandwichofportland.com The sandwich is the food of the masses. At its most basic, it’s just protein, cheese and bread. A communist-themed sandwich shop only makes sense, then, especially when the sandwiches are served with the love and humor The Peoples’ Sandwich of Portland puts into every order. You don’t have to lean to the left to appreciate names such as the Hammer & Pickle, the Portlandia Über Alles, or the Argento Arrabiata. Whether you’re a vegan or a conscious carnivore, Peoples’ Sandwich caters to your particular protein needs. All of the shop’s meats are bought locally and from companies that attempt to bring you their wares as ethically as possible. PHOTOGRAPY BY

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neiGhborhood favorites northeast Back to Eden Bakery Boutique: Standouts at this all-vegan bakery include strawberry-hazelnut layer cake, pumpkin Whoopie Pies and carrot cake, as well as savory tarts alongside a cup of brewed-to-order coffee. (2217 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-477-5022; backtoedenbakery.com) Firehouse: This is the kind of place that you’d be happy to have in your neighborhood. In a deeply cool, early 20th-century firehouse, it carries a warmth and coziness only bolstered by a wood-burning oven, service that’s far more than neighborly and solid dishes under $18. (711 N.E. Dekum St.; 503-954-1702; firehousepdx.com) Kir: More Parisan than Portland, the intimate candlelit nook provides well-priced, mostly European wines and simple, tasty snacks. Owner-cook Amalie Roberts puts her low-key, chic touch on every aspect of Kir, and her time abroad shows in a feel for Provençal flavors. (22 N.E. Seventh Ave.; 503-232-3063; kirwinebar.com) Laurelhurst Market: Simpatica’s meat masters create a neighborhood steakhouse, complete with an in-house butcher counter and impressive array of cocktails. (3155 E. Burnside St.; 503-2063099; laurelhurstmarket.com) Navarre: This uniquely Portland place serves farm-fresh, superhandcrafted, European-style meals nightly. Weekends feature a relaxed breakfast and lunch running throughout the day. (10 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503-232-3555; navarreportland.blogspot.com)

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Ned Ludd: Owner Jason French and former owner Ben Meyer transformed a former pizzeria, repurposing as much as possible, including the attractive brick fireplace (there’s no stove!) that dominates the open kitchen. The menu is well-rounded: snack-like options to accompany wines and brews; appetizers and mains that speak to the traditions of homey European cuisine. (3925 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.; 503-288-6900; nedluddpdx.com)

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Noble Rot: One of the city’s best wine bars also has one of the most dramatic views of Portland’s skyline. Chef Leather Storrs cooks a great onion tart, as well as more complex delights. Look for wine flights that explore unusual wine regions. (1111 E. Burnside St., fourth floor, 503-233-1999; noblerotpdx.com) Tabla Mediterranean Bistro: Tabla is on its game these days, delivering what diners want now more than ever: a great value. The space is long and narrow, tables tight, opening into a wider area in the back. Counter seats overlooking the open kitchen give a close-up view of the hot saucepan action. (200 N.E. 28th Ave.; 503238-3777; tabla-restaurant.com) Tin Shed Garden Cafe: The waits for tables are legendary, and so are the buttermilk biscuits in rosemary-mushroom gravy. (1438 N.E. Alberta St., 503-2886966; tinshedgardencafe.com) Toro Bravo: This tapas restaurant is well worth the wait, especially if you like to sample superb small plates. Lots of selections you’ve probably never had before, but adventure is definitely the game. (120 N.E. Russell St.; 503-2814464; torobravopdx.com)

scene

hiGh five latin souPs While our southern neighbors enjoy a spring of blue skies and sunshine, here it’s mostly rain. April, like it or not, is still very much soup weather. To ease the pain, we’ve been seeking out belly-filling bowls with bright, vibrant flavors that remind us of warmer climes. If we can’t see the sun, we at least want to taste it, so we went on the hunt for Latin soups rich with spicy chiles, savory tomatoes and zingy limes. We found five so good they actually make us thankful it’s still chilly outside. — Grant Butler, Danielle Centoni, and Leslie Cole Chilean zucchini stew at Cafe Yumm!: This small Oregon-based chain is known for its upscale rice bowls with their myriad toppings and signature tangy sauces. But regulars know to check out their from-scratch soups, and there’s none finer than this always-available stew, which has a spicy tomato base and is studded with halfmoons of zucchini, diced onions, corn kernels and fresh herbs. And in a non-Latin twist, there’s a hint of curry, which helps heat up the palate. The soup is so good, it’s even been incorporated into one of the bowls, layered with brown rice, “Yumm! Sauce” and topped with salsa. Yum, indeed. Three Portland-area locations, including 1806 S.W. Sixth Ave., 503-226-9866; cafeyumm.com

Poblano soups at Por Qué No: Almost everyone lines up at Por Qué No for the tacos, only occasionally veering off-course for a filling Bryan’s Bowl or a platter of steaming tamales. The daily soup special? Completely overlooked — and that’s a crime. Every soup is stellar, offwering vibrant, complex flavors. Although the selection changes almost daily, the poblano-chile-based soups seem to pop up with the most regularity,

which is a good thing. They’re invariably thick and smoky, like a rich stew/ chili hybrid, and packed with things like grilled chicken and beans or tender shredded beef and potatoes. Squeeze some fresh lime juice over the top and dip in a hot, house-made tortilla chip. 3524 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-467-4149; and 4635 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-954-3138; porquenotacos.com Posole Blanco at Autentica: Mark your calendar because you get just one chance each week to indulge in this buffet-in-a-bowl. That’s because Autentica only serves posole on Thursday nights, in keeping with the tradition of chef-owner Oswaldo Bibiano’s home state of Guerrero, Mexico. Even he doesn’t know why the coastal region (where Acapulco is located) has designated Thursdays as posole day, but it doesn’t matter. It just makes the soup that much more special. Toothsome hominy and chunks of shredded pork swim in a pork-based broth. Served in a rustic cazuela, it’s a simple, warming vehicle for the staggering array of toppings: piles of mild, sweet, shredded cabbage; fresh cilantro; diced onions and green chiles; sliced radishes; half an avocado; house-made tortilla chips

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Autentica (the only time Bibiano has chips on his menu); a meat-filled taquito; and a spicy, cheese-filled chile relleno. It’s definitely worth the weekly wait. 5507 N.E. 30th Ave., 503-287-7555; autenticaportland.com Ajiaco at Pambiche: This palace of Cuban-Creole soul food is the place for fritters and authentic ropa vieja, but comfort-seekers know to go straight for the ajiaco, a creamy country stew of braised beef, pork and root vegetables common to the island. Pambiche’s version features yucca, potatoes, chunks of corn, tender bits of pork and beef, and dumplings (though with their crunchy exterior, they’re more like corn fritters). With a squeeze of fresh lime and some smoky salsa, it hits just the right note between warmth and brightness. A generous bowl comes with a scoop of white rice. 2811 N.E. Glisan St., 503-233-0511; pambiche.com

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Tortilla Soup at Oba: Usually tortilla soup is garnished with avocado, crumbled cheese, sour cream and strips of fried tortillas. But at Oba, most of the garnishes are swirled into the soup, creating a deliciously thicker, heartier version. The base of tomatoes, chiles and chicken stock is enriched with crema and brightened by a hefty dose of lime juice. It’s the perfect backdrop for chunks of avocado, queso fresco and grilled chicken. The matchstick-thin strips of fried tortillas sprinkled on top add welcome crunch, even if they are amusingly tri-colored (hey, Oba, the ’90s want their tortillas back). Prices here can be high, but you can beat the system if you go at happy hour, from 4-6:30 p.m. daily. Although the price of the soup doesn’t change, you can add a Caesar salad for a song. 555 N.W. 12th Ave., 503-228-6161; obarestaurant.com PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROSS WILLIAM HAMILTON

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