porTlAnd, oreGon / AUGUST 2012
Eat • Drink • Get Out • Get Together MIXpdX.CoM
The Road TRip issue
Burgers & Beer in town and on the road Camping at Lake BiLLy Chinook CraBBing feast on the Coast wine tasting in LyLe, washington weekend getaway in seattLe’s BaLLard neighBorhood
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editor’s note Somewhere along the way the word “vacation” became synonymous with “plane ride.” At least to me. It’s as if getting away had to involve jet fuel or it didn’t count. Maybe it’s because airlines are better at bombarding us with advertising. Maybe it’s because not that long ago taking a plane was a — relatively — painless and therefore more frequent experience. Either way, I’m not buying it — a plane ticket, that is. Summer in the Pacific Northwest is just too perfect. It would be a crime to spend a minute of it anywhere else. So while I save the air travel for January, this month my family and I will be loading up the car. We’ve got rivers to fish, lakes to paddle, trails to hike and campfires to tend. We want to feel the sand in our toes and the saltwater taffy in our teeth. In short, we’ve got a lot of
exploring to do within just a few hours’ drive from home. And so do you. That’s why we’ve dedicated this issue to road tripping around the Northwest. If you’re looking for an urban excursion, we’ve got the lowdown on the best restaurants in Ballard, Seattle’s hottest neighborhood (Page 29). And if you’re more of a four-poster bed than a fourperson-tent kind of traveler, we tracked down five beautiful B&Bs where the food
alone is worth the trip (Page 34). Of course, you have to fuel yourself along the way. If you want to be virtuous, we have recipes for nutritious car snacks on Page 21. But when you want to give in to your inner glutton, we’ve got a list of roadside burgers you won’t want to miss (Page 16). Wine tasting in the Columbia River Gorge, crabbing on the coast and camping by the lake. It’s all out there — and in here, too. So turn the page and start your engines.
Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH by beTH nAkAmuRA
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august 2012 24-Hour Party PeoPle: Cocktails, camping and pontoon boating on Lake Billy Chinook / page 40 PHOtOgRaPH BY taYlOR scHefstROm
starters
eat
drink
get out
get together
11 Bike-friendly pubs, rafting with chefs, itty-bitty soy sauce, luxe ice cream
16 toP ten: Best burgers at home and on the road
26 Wine: Discover the budding wine scene in Lyle, Washington
29 eat Here: Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood 34 HiGH Five: B&Bs with dreamy food
48 daWn to dusk dinner Party: Crabbing and camping on the coast with Por Que No’s Bryan Steelman
38 calendar: What to do and where to go this month
56 i.d.: Talking turmeric with chef Troy MacLarty
21 Good For you: Car snacks that won’t weigh you down 24 tecHnique: Vinaigrette basics with Lovely’s 50-50
mIX is 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to mixPdx.com and click on “subscribe.” You can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixPdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.
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contributors lara ferroni is a former tech geek turned food geek who spends her days exploring the food culture of the Pacific Northwest. As a writer and photographer, you might spy her digging through bargain bins for the perfect prop, dreaming up delicious new ways to use teff, or eating, drinking and photographing her way through Ballard’s vibrant food culture, as she did for our Eat Here story on Page 29. Her photos have been featured on websites and in magazines such as Epicurious and Edible Communities as well as more than 10 cookbooks, including her own, “Doughnuts” (Sasquatch Books, 2010). Her second cookbook, “Real Snacks: Your Favorite Childhood Treats Without All the Junk” (Sasquatch Books), comes out this fall. Her food photography how-to book, “Food Photography: Pro Secrets for Styling, Lighting & Shooting” (Pixiq), hit bookstore shelves in March. You can find more of her tasty photos and recipes on her blogs, CookandEat.com and StillLifeWith.com. taylor schefstrom is a Portland-based freelance photographer whose love of eating has taken her to many of the city’s best restaurants and some of Oregon’s most gorgeous farms. While shooting “Lake Billy Chinook, in 24 Hours” (Page 40) she discovered that there’s a big difference between being on a boat — and being on a boat with five inventive food lovers. “Every dish outdid the one before, from ribs to cocktails,” she says. “It will be a rough transition back to instant oatmeal and canned sardines when camping in the future.”
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Bryan steelman, the owner of Portland’s Por Qué No taquerias, fell in love with Mexico and tacos while traveling there in his VW bus. He studied Anthropology and Latin American Studies at Chico State University. He says he finds the most joy in life these days when he is making good decisions for his employees or when he is gathered with all of his family and friends eating crab at the beach (see Page 48). He also says that the name for his restaurants is not just a name, but a lesson he learned in Mexico about how to navigate life.
hannah wallace needed no excuse to write about Ballard for this issue of MIX (Page 29). It’s home to one of the most-talked about pizzerias in the country and a locally famed bakery that turns out sinfully good croissants. “What surprised me was the diversity of cuisines,” Wallace says. “Ballard is like a cosmopolitan city. You can get authentic Spanish tapas, outstanding couscous, Korean comfort food and Oaxacan mole.” Wallace is a regular contributor to Whole Living, Portland Monthly and The New York Times Magazine’s T: Travel, and she is the food politics columnist at FasterTimes.com. Her articles and book reviews have appeared in The New York Times, Salon.com, Travel + Leisure, Mother Jones and the Los Angeles Times.
other contrIbutIng WrIters: luCy Burningham, grant Butler, daVid Centoni, aBigail ChiPley, m.J. Cody, katherine Cole, ashley gartland, allie gaVette, iVy manning, lila martin, laura B. russell, andrea sloneCker, Jen steVenson, Peter szymCzak, audrey Van Buskirk, kat Vetrano Citrine and Orange Sapphire
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other contrIbutIng photographers/Illustrators: alan Berner, daVid Centoni, reed darmon, mike daVis, BruCe ely, kurt Johnson, Jen Jones, Beth nakamura, wendi nordeCk, randy l. rasmussen, terry riChard
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MIXpdX.coM august 2012
ON THE COVER: Juicy, beefy goodness awaits at Killer Burger in Bingen, Wash. PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
index where to find the reCiPes in this issue: entrees • Dungeness Crab Boil With Andouille Sausage , p52 • Dungeness Crab Stock, p52 • Oregon Shrimp Rolls, p45 • Tutu’s Kalbi Ribs, p44 side dishes and salads • Tomato, Cucumber and Fresh Mozzarella Salad, p54 • Marinated Cucumbers and Roasted Tomatoes With Tarragon, p46 Zingy Zucchini and Carrot Ribbons, p46
Visit our new tasting room in Downtown Carlton! Open Thursday-Sunday 12-5 pm 116 West Main Street Carlton, OR 97111
503-852-3067 @OmeroCellars www.omerocellars.com Breakfast • Lavender-Pecan Granola Parfaits, p44 Condiments and snaCks • Lovely 50-50’s Vinaigrette, p24 • Paprika-Glazed Hazelnuts, p22 • Quinoa Krispy Treats, p23 • Snack Loco’s Road Bars, p22 desserts • Raspberry-Marionberry Cobbler, p55
Lens & Camera Rental Huge selection of professional lenses, camera bodies and accessories.
drinks • The Backcountry Bramble, p42
online extras at mixPdx.Com Get the recipes for rockaway fritters and little gem lettuces with Pickled Cherries, almonds and Bacon Vinaigrette Discover five more lyle, wash., wines to try Read more of our interview with chef troy maclarty of Bollywood Theater
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starters
apex
cruise to brews: 5 favorite bike friendly pubs 1 Best place to 2 Best place to 3 Best place to pedal 4 Best place to There’s no greater pleasure than drinking beer after a bicycle ride, whether you’ve been swooping through some scenic single-track or pedaling home from work. Here are my picks for the best places to quench your thirst for a craft brew post-ride, the kinds of joints where no one cares whether you wear spandex or refuel by eating a whole pizza by yourself.
— Lucy BurningHam PHOTOgraPH By rEED DarmOn
break up the commute: Hopworks BikeBar, portland north Williams Boulevard has become one of the city’s most well-traveled bike commuter thoroughfares and, therefore, a prime place to enjoy a happy hour ale. Peel off from the pack for a pint paired with happy hour soft pretzels or pie. if you’d rather keep rolling, the “Bike n go” sandwiches are made to fit in water bottle cages. hopworksbeer.com
roll your wheels through the sand: pelican puB & Brewery, pacific city i’ve finished a few rides from Portland at this beachfront pub, so i know how thoughts of the onion ring tower paired with some Kiwanda cream ale can help any rider power through the last long miles. roll your bike through some sand and park yourself on the patio, which looks over the beach and the Pacific city sea stack. pelicanbrewery.com
before a play: standing stone Brewing, asHland Known as one of the more bike-friendly spots in southern Oregon, Standing Stone has consistently promoted cycling by doing things like giving employees special commuter bikes for getting to work. That attitude makes rolling up on your bicycle (before a Shakespeare play, perhaps), the absolute best way to arrive. standingstonebrewing. com
cap off a Cascadian mountain bike ride: douBle Mountain Brewery, Hood river if you’ve got a preference for knobby tires and suspension forks, you’ll feel right at home at Double mountain, a brewery with a great selection of hoppy beers and the best pizzas in Hood river county. Bike parking? Who needs it? roll up and rest your bike on the taproom’s big glass windows in true small-town style. doublemountain brewery.com
5
Best place to shun car culture: apex Bar, portland Even though apex is right on busy Division Street, a huge outdoor beer garden, complete with long communal picnic tables, buffers the bar from the road. The corral includes plenty of bicycle and motorcycle parking, so consider leaving your car at home. Fifty beers on tap will please any pedaler’s palate, but be warned, no food is served on site. consider bringing in a bánh mì from Double Dragon across the street. apexbar.com
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starters, cont.
eat these
New favorites from beyond our borders little soya soy sauce if you’re gluten-free, gone are the days of lugging a big glass bottle of wheat-free tamari to your favorite asian restaurant. Little Soya has created a gluten-free soy sauce in the most cleverly designed pocket-sized packaging of all time. The adorable fishshaped single-serving containers make perfect sense when you’re traveling or going out for sushi.
But these little cuties aren’t all looks and no brains: The soy sauce, made from non-gmO soybeans, tastes rich and full-bodied without smacking you in the face with salt. (Little Soya also happens to be low sodium.) until they’re distributed in Oregon, you can order a pack of 12 online at littlesoya.com. — Laura B. ruSSELL
PHOTOgraPH By WEnDi nOrDEcK
Mulay’s sausage
Martin’s Marvelous crisps at first glance, martin’s marvelous crisps look a lot like seed-studded melba toasts. But after that first bite you’ll see just how much more is going on. The crisps, made in Vancouver, B.c., from gluten-free oat flour, sunflower seeds, raisins and hemp seeds, get their faint sweetness from brown sugar. They’re rich, toasty and nutty, not too hard,
PHOTOgraPH By rEED DarmOn
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and perfect for your next picnic. rosemary and Lavender, applied with the lightest of hands (promise!), is our favorite flavor, but the Pumpkin Seed cranberry, chocolate molé, and Date & Olive Tapenade versions are equally tempting. — Laura B. ruSSELL
Available at Whole Foods, or visit martinsmarvelous.com
These days, you can find great fresh, locally made sausages at almost any meat counter around town. So it would take a lot for a colorado-based sausage maker to turn our heads and keep us coming back for more. and that’s exactly what mulay’s Sausage did. We’ve tried the whole line and haven’t found a snoozer in the bunch. made with 80 percent lean, certified-humane pork, they’re gluten-free, nitrate-free and well-seasoned — achieving that perfect balance of salt, herbs, spices and porky goodness — with a coarser texture that’s
just like homemade, even the breakfast sausages. The chorizo is full-flavored yet mildly spiced, so even the kids who tried it loved it. Heat-seekers will be happy to know the Killer Hots are truly, satisfyingly hot. They’re perfect for throwing on the grill this summer; just be sure to include some of mulay’s tasty brats and italian sausages for those who don’t have a fireproof tongue. — DaniELLE cEnTOni
Available at New Seasons, selection varies by store, or visit mulayssausage.com
Jeni’s splendid ice creaMs We have a new favorite ice cream, a rich, creamy, super-flavorful premium ice cream that’s made in small batches from milk produced by grass-fed cows on family-owned farms. Those farms just happen to be in Ohio. columbus-based Jeni’s Splendid ice cream has a rabid following and oodles of national acclaim (including a recent James Beard award for the cookbook), and rightly so. Luckily for us, the journey to get the positively mind-blowing Jeni’s Splendid ice creams
has gotten much shorter. instead of ordering a four-pint minimum online and paying for overnight shipping, it’s now available at Zupan’s and Bales marketplace by the pint in flavors like Brambleberry crisp, Juniper & Lemon curd and Plum Sake Sorbet. yes, the price tag is steep at $12.99 a pint, but you’d pay the same for a handpacked pint at a local gourmet scoop shop. and for ice cream this luxe, it’s definitely worth it. — aLLiE gaVETTE
Available at Zupan’s and Bales Marketplace, or visit jenis.com
G R E A T
Escapes The Landing What to do, where to go? Welcome to peace and beauty of The Landing at Newport. From glorious sunrises to magnificent sunsets, you will experience an ever changing, always breathtaking view of the Yaquina Bay and Bridge. The Landing at Newport offers modern clean, comfortable and fully furnished accommodations, which include 1½ baths, fully equipped kitchens, washer/dryers, dining area, living
room with gas log fireplace and a private balcony from which you will enjoy the sights and sounds of Newport’s spectacular Yaquina Bay. During your visit to The Landing at Newport you will have full access to our patio area with BBQ’s and Crab Cookers, our fitness center, business center, underground covered parking, elevator access, and free WIFI.
The choices available to Northwest residents are almost unlimited.
Conveniently located at the east end of the Historic Bay front you will follow the Fisherman’s Memorial Walkway past one of Oregon’s leading commercial fishing fleets to nearby shopping, fine dining and many local attractions. Whether you spend your day doing business, beachcombing, crabbing, sightseeing, or visiting the Oregon Coast Aquarium, you will want to end your day relaxing in the comfort and privacy of your home away from home at The Landing at Newport.
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starters, cont.
drink this absinthe flights at acadia bistro absinthe conjures up images of Parisian artists and green fairies, all wrapped in the mystique of an illicit hallucinogenic liqueur. But the delicately herbal yet biting spirit is actually perfectly civilized (no, you won’t hallucinate, sorry) — and quite a refreshing sipper on a hot summer’s day. There are dozens of absinthes on the market these days, and though the anise-like flavor is a constant among them all, each has characteristics and flavors that can set it apart. Taste the range for yourself with acadia Bistro’s three absinthe flights featuring nine of the 12 options on the restaurant’s well-curated bottle list, including West coast offerings from Trillium, Pacifique and St. george. — aLLiE gaVETTE
1303 N.E. Fremont St., Portland, 503-249-5001, creolapdx.com PHOTOgraPHy By BETH naKamura
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novelty playing cards are nothing new — a quick internet search can land you packs dedicated to everything from chef Boyardee to edible wild foods. But cards that buy you a drink? now you’re talking. abandon your losing game of go Fish and let Drink Deck lead you on a 52-stop Portland pubcrawl. Each card in the $29.99 deck (even better, get the mobile version) gives you $10 off or a 20 to 30 percent discount at popular local bars like Teardrop, rontoms, Saraveza and Prost. after you shuffle your way around Stumptown, you can explore the bar scene in chicago, new Orleans and, now, London. — JEn STEVEnSOn thedrinkdeck.com
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503-538-1311 Ya mh i l l s G a l l e ry. co m 14
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River romp & chomp
nothing whets the appetite like a day of getting wet (soaked from head to toe is more like it) while rafting down class 3 and 4 whitewater rapids on the rogue river. But this was no ordinary float down the river or post-paddling campfire cookout. a recent gourmet expedition counted chefs David Padberg of Park Kitchen and Matthew Domingo of Farm to Fork events among its crew of rafters and river guides. The chefs’ mission? To prepare nightly five-course dinners featuring local ingredients, including wines by southern Oregon’s Troon Vineyards, during the four-day trip. “We’re trying to take advantage of the
setting … the natural beauty of the river,” says Padberg. “it’s this whole idea of something that’s very popular in Oregon — eating outdoors — and having these remote settings and embracing this kind of seasonality that we are known for here.” Plate & Pitchfork is hosting a similar expedition this September. chefs Benjamin Bettinger of the soon-toopen Imperial Restaurant and Jason Barwikowski of Woodsman tavern will prepare gourmet lunches and dinners during a four-day cattle ranching and whitewater rafting excursion down the Snake river through Hells canyon. — PETEr SZymcZaK
FOr mOrE inFOrmaTiOn, visit farmtoforkevents.com or plateandpitchfork.com PHOTOgraPHy By JEn JOnES, mOxy inTErnaTiOnaL
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EAT top ten burgers at home and on the road Sunshine, cold beer and juicy burgers — three of life’s greatest pleasures made even better when enjoyed together. And now’s the time to indulge. To guide you on your quest for this summer trifecta, we gathered five of our favorite places that have it all: truly delicious burgers, a thoughtful tap list and outdoor seating. And because this is our road trip issue, we looked in every direction to find five great roadside burgers on the way to where you’re going. Whether you’re staying home or hitting the highway, we have you covered.
Five at home:
1 Breakside Brewery
Breakside Brewery calls theirs the Cadillac of burgers because they spare no expense on ingredients for its assembly: a halfpound of Snake River Farms’ American Kobe-style beef with Rogue Creamery’s hazelnut-smoked blue cheese stuffed inside. And if you’ve gone gluten-free, they’ve got you covered with the option of a nonwheat bun. Topped with big, meaty, roasted mushrooms — oyster, cremini and shiitake — and caramelized onions, it’s served with a choice of crispy waffle fries or a cup of soup for a whopping $16. Enjoy the burger with an inspired selection of house-brewed beers, from stalwarts like their hoppy IPA to seasonals like Smokey Radler, a Germanstyle kolsch brewed with a bit of Scottish peat malt. Or pick from a few well-chosen guest taps from local breweries like Double Mountain and Upright. Perhaps the coolest feature at this place is the lineup of custombuilt picnic tables that resemble Jenga puzzles — a mighty fine perch for people watching amid the bustle of this revitalized section of Northeast Dekum Street. 820 N.E. Dekum St., 503-719-6475, breaksidebrews.com — ANDREA SlONECKER
2 Burnside Brewing Co.
This brewery is all about the hops, from the hops-studded potato bun sandwiching the Brewery Burger to the garnish of fresh hops sprinkled over the crispy fries. Of course, they are also pumping out pints of hoppy, unfiltered Northwest brews, but even the interior decor features dried hops hanging from the rafters. When it’s warm out, enjoy the burger and brewmaster Jason McAdam’s 16
MIXpdX.coM august 2012
Breakside Brewery PHOTOGRAPH BY RANdY l. RAsMUssEN
Oatmeal Pale Ale — the recommended pairing — on the front patio picnic tables. The burger is a juicy, half-pound local beef patty fried in delectable duck fat and topped with sweet, griddled onions, with housemade pickles and ketchup on the side ($10). With an option to add cheese and bacon for a dollar each, and tacking on a side of fries for three dollars more, it can get a bit pricey, but that duck fat dripping down your chin is worth the splurge. 701 E. Burnside St., 503-946-8151, burnsidebrewco.com — ANDREA SlONECKER
3 eastBurn
Want that quintessential Portland feel? Enjoy your burger and a beer while dangling from a swing on the back patio at EastBurn. That’s right, there are adult-sized swinging
chairs on the patio. But craft beer and chef Joseph Dougherty’s bar fare are the focus here. You’ll find 16 taps of ever-changing local brews such as Oakshire Amber and Walking Man IPA, mixed with a lively selection of imports from the bottle. A ciabatta burger bun can be a lot to chew, but here it’s tender enough to bite into without injury to the mouth. Tucked inside is a half-pound of Northwest grass-fed beef topped with aged cheddar cheese, sliced applewood bacon and all the fixings, plus a side of fries or a green salad for $10.50. On a chilly night, your burger-beer-patio trifecta is still a go with heat lamps, or feel the warmth while sitting around the mosaic fire pit tables. 1800 E. Burnside St., 503-236-2876, theeastburn.com
— ANDREA SlONECKER
Breakside Brewery PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
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best burgers cont.
4 Produce Row
Killer Burger
Earlier this year, the entire Central Eastside business district had its name changed to Produce Row, and it wouldn’t be a surprise if that scheme had been cooked up over a few pints on the Produce Row patio. It’s a delightful hidden spot that stays mysteriously warm even on less than balmy days. For nearly four decades, this urban outdoor dining (and, truth be told, drinking) spot has been admired for its extensive, global and oft-changing beer menu, offering up brews from places like Boneyard in Bend to Kulmbacher in Germany. Food offerings have improved dramatically in the past few years. In the Row Burger, the thick meaty patty packs a full half pound of Cascade Natural beef and is topped generously with all the usual suspects kicked up a notch — crispy onions, sweet-hot mustard, poppy seed kaiser bun. It comes with salt and pepper chips, but add the beer-battered fries for the extra two bucks. Maybe you’ll come up with a great idea, too. 204 S.W. Oak St., 503-232-8355, producerowcafe.com — AUDREY VAN BUSKIRK
5 Lardo Produce Row Cafe
lardo chef-owner Rick Gencarelli gained fame with his popular food cart on Southeast Belmont. Now his deliciously porkladen sandwiches have a new brick-andmortar home — with its own outdoor patio that’s also home to The Sugar Cube dessert cart — across from Hawthorne’s Cartopia cart pod. Although his famous porchetta is hard to pass up, his double burger is not to be missed. He calls it “A combination of high-end gourmet burger and a little dirty fast food.” It combines two 3½ ounce patties, each topped with Tillamook cheddar and grilled together, then slathered with lardo sauce (dill relish, mayo and Dijon mustard). It’s piled onto a Fleur De lis brioche kaiser bun and topped with shredded lettuce and just enough pork belly to give it lardo’s signature porky goodness. Pair it with a laurelwood Red from one of the 14 craft beers on tap. Lardo, 1212 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-7786, lardopdx.com — KAT VETRANO
PHOTOGRAPH (ABOvE, lEfT) BY BETH NAKAMURA, (BElOw, lEfT) BY RANdY l. RAsMUssEN
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Five on the RoaD:
V1
Pick-Quick Drive in Fife, Wash.: Just a block off I-5 near Tacoma, you’ll find a rare thing — a real drive-in. Not a drive-through, but a drive-in. A place that’s been around since 1949, with a glowing neon sign beckoning you off the highway for a simple meal of old-school burgers and fries. You don’t walk in and sit down, you eat in your car — or, better yet, at a picnic table in the beautiful park next door. It’s like a food cart/time machine for the four-wheeled set. Not much has changed in the 63 years the family-run Pick-Quick has been around. The fries are hand-cut, the milkshakes are so thick you’ll need a spoon, and the juicy burgers are made with local beef. It’s also cash only, so be sure to hit the ATM first. If you’re traveling from the Rose City to the Emerald City this summer, definitely make this your pit stop. 4306 Pacific Highway E., Fife, WA., — DAVID CENTONI 253-922-5599, pick-quick.com
2 Barley Brown’s Brew Pub Baker City, Ore.: If you’re heading
to Boise or other points east on I-84, take a break at Baker City. On the main street wide enough for a cattle drive you’ll find Barley Brown’s, a lively local hangout that’s cavernous, yet cozy, with quarry tile floors, exposed brick walls and stamped tin ceilings. The awardwinning, handcrafted beer is stellar and goes perfectly with the fat, juicy, Kobe burger on a soft kaiser roll. It comes topped with Tillamook cheddar, lettuce and tomato and is slathered with a mayo-based onion/garlic sauce that’s just as great with their hand-cut fries. Just be sure to plan your trip accordingly — they don’t open until 4 and are closed on Sundays. 2190 Main St., Baker City, 541-523-4266, barleybrowns.com — M.J. CODY
3 K&R Drive inn
4 Killer Burger
Bingen, Wash.: When the first Killer Burger outpost opened on Portland’s Northeast Sandy Boulevard, it quickly developed a fervent following for its handformed, juicy-pink, sloppy-good burgers. Soon after, a spinoff opened in Bingen, Wash., directly across from Hood River, and more recently outposts in Sellwood and Vancouver. Are more Killer Burgers in the works? Will they take over the world? One can only hope. They’re everything an upscale burger isn’t, and everything a classic diner burger wishes it could be. Add to that the golden mounds of crispy thick-cut fries and cold pints of local craft brews, and you have road food heaven. The Classic is true burger perfection, but if you want to something different, there are a dozen or so intriguing options, from peanut butter and pickles to ghost peppers. 216 W. Steuben St., Bingen, WA., 509-637-2510, killerburger.biz — DANIEllE CENTONI
Oakland, Ore.: Sure, under normal
circumstances you’re reliably stalwart in the face of dietary temptation. But nostalgia is a powerful thing, which may explain why you are sitting in the parking lot of a bare-bones burger shack in a remote I-5 outpost in southern Oregon, ecstatically gripping a double bacon cheeseburger in one hand and a cold, creamy chocolate peanut butter shake in the other, and balancing orders of onion rings and fried pickles in your rapidly-shrinking lap. This beguiling, old-timey Rice Hill drive-in, with its alluring vintage signage and 38 (!) flavors of Umpqua ice cream, will pull you off Exit 148 faster than the sternest of state troopers. Just one word of caution: There’s no restroom. 307 John Long Road, Oakland, 541-849-2570, — JEN STEVENSON krdriveinn.com
Pick-Quick Drive In, Fife, Wash.
5 otis Cafe
Otis, Ore.: Otis Cafe has been a road trip tradition for beach-goers on their way to lincoln City since 1953. With just seven tables, you’ll often wait out on the rickety wooden porch for a seat, but once inside, you’ll find hefty breakfasts and a wide range of burgers from classic quarter-pounders with white cheddar to halibut, albacore and fried oyster burgers, all served with thick slabs of onions, tomatoes and housemade mustard on a toasted sesame bun. Their hand-blended thick-as-cementmilkshakes and homemade marionberry pie seal the deal: This place is an Oregon classic. 1259 Salmon River Highway, Otis, Ore., 541-994-2813, otiscafe.com — IVY MANNING £
Otis Cafe, Otis PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP) BY dAvid cENTONi, (BElOw) BY BRUcE ElY august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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eat / good for you
Smart snacks for summer car trips By Ashley GArtlAnd
There’s nothing better than a summer road trip. You’ve got the music cranked up, the windows down and the eager anticipation of your final destination. All you need are a few good car snacks to keep you going from Point A to Point B. The trouble is, you’ll likely be limited to fast-food chains and minimarts along the way — not exactly beacons of good health. If you don’t want to derail your good eating habits, or end up a sugar-buzzed, salt-parched, stomach-lurching mess before you get to where you’re going, your best bet is to make your own snacks. By preparing road-ready recipes at home, you can carry a stash of tasty treats that use healthy, high-quality ingredients. The Original’s pastry chef, Jordan Crews, could certainly whip up an indulgent treat or two for the road. But because his wife is an avid hiker, personal trainer and nursing student, he often makes road trip snacks that offer nutritional value, too. “I try to adapt fun, salty-sweet snacks so they have a healthier bent for us,” he says. “On road trips, we eat things like Lärabars and granola and jerky, which I like to make myself.” He’s also a fan of his Quinoa Krispy Treats, a contemporary twist on the kid-favorite that’s high in protein and gluten-free, too. If long drives leave you craving a snack that’s simultaneously salty and PhOtOGrAPhy By Beth nAKAMUrA august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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good for you cont. sweet, glazed nuts, such as the paprikaglazed hazelnuts at Bar Avignon, are an easy, nutrient-dense fix. “The combination of the smoky paprika and the cayenne in these glazed nuts gives them depth of flavor and spiciness,” says the restaurant’s chef, Eric Joppie. And if cooking pre-road-trip doesn’t factor into your busy schedule, you can always let a local company do the prep work for you. Options abound at local grocers and farmers markets, from Freddy Guys’ zesty seasoned hazelnuts to Pacific Northwest Kale’s new kale chips. “With our kale chips, we are giving you a salad in a bag, and you are getting so much nutrition in each bag because the kale is dehydrated,” says co-owner Sarah Pool. “It’s healthy food to eat on the go.”
three loCally made sNaCKs we love Pacific Northwest Kale Chips: Farmers market newcomers sarah Pool and Ugyen shola pack a full bunch of nutritious kale into every bag of their crispy kale chips. We’re partial to the Glacier Peak Greens variety, which gets a flavor boost from raw cashews, cilantro and lime. pacifickale.com Not Just another seedy Bar: lisa chuman’s dense, road-ready bars straddle the sweet-savory line with a blend of barely sweetened oats, nuts, seeds, dried fruit and spices. try our favorite fruit-forward flavor, tart cherry with cayenne, at chuman’s Beaverton Farmers Market booth (no website yet). snackloco: the light, crunchy snack mixes that chef Kristina Montaine and her husband, Michael, produce are made for grazing. And every flavor caters to roadtrippers adhering to alternative diets: the lightly sweetened blends of whole grains or popcorn, nuts and seeds are vegan friendly and gluten free. Find them at new seasons, Food Fight, Food Front and People’s Food co-op. maggiebellnaturals.com
Paprika-Glazed hazelnuts MAKes 1 POUnd
Be forewarned, these lightly sweet nuts with a hint of spice are highly addictive. It’s very easy to consume mass quantities. If willpower is a particular problem for you, consider portioning them into single-serving bags before you hit the road. 1 pound dry roasted hazelnuts 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar 3 teaspoons kosher salt 3 teaspoons smoked paprika 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste 3 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ teaspoon water Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and warm in the oven for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, stir together the brown sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne, butter and water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until butter melts. In a large bowl, toss the warm hazelnuts with the glaze until coated. return the hazelnuts to the baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes. remove the baking sheet from the oven and stir well, then continue baking until well toasted, about 8 minutes longer. Allow to cool to room temperature on the baking sheet. transfer the hazelnuts to an airtight container or zip-top plastic bag, shaking briefly if needed to break up the large pieces. the hazelnuts will keep for at least 1 week at room temperature. — From Eric Joppie, Bar Avignon, Portland
snackloco road Bars MAKes ABOUt 16 (2-Inch sqUAre) BArs
these vegan (and potentially gluten-free) bars pack in everything we look for in good road food. they’re not too sweet, good to eat any time of day, and the nuts and seeds will keep you going strong. they’re also insanely easy to make. 1 cup whole wheat flour or your favorite gluten-free flour mix 1 cup almond or hazelnut meal (finely ground almonds or hazelnuts) ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup canola oil or melted coconut oil ½ cup agave nectar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1½ cup SnackLoco mix or your favorite nutty trail mix ½ cup raisins, dried cranberries or cherries (optional) In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, almond meal and salt. Add the oil, agave nectar and vanilla extract. Mix well to combine. stir in the snackloco or trail mix and dried fruit. Press the mixture into an 8-inch square baking pan. Freeze 1 hour. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake the bars for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown (if by 15 minutes the edges are getting too brown but the rest of the top isn’t, turn on the broiler for a few minutes until the top is evenly browned).
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Allow to cool, then cut into 2-inch bars. Will keep in an airtight container for about 1 week. — From Kristina and Michael Montaine, SnackLoco
quinoa Krispy treats MAKes 24 (2-Inch sqUAre) BArs
1950
1960
If you have a sweet tooth and love coconut, these bars are for you. If you plan to take these along in a hot car, you might want to skip the decadent coconutty topping. It can get a little melty. Krispy treats: 3 tablespoons organic coconut oil 4 cups regular or vegan marshmallows 6 cups puffed quinoa (see note) Coconut Icing: ½ cup organic coconut butter ½ cup agave nectar ¼ cup organic coconut oil, melted 1 tablespoon soy lecithin (see note) 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract 1 teaspoon organic flavored oil, such as orange, lemon or almond ¼ teaspoon salt coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray or coconut oil. In a large saucepan, warm the coconut oil over low heat until melted. Add the marshmallows and stir constantly with a spatula until completely melted, about 15 minutes. remove from the heat.
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Add the puffed quinoa to the saucepan and stir until well coated with the marshmallow mixture. Press the mixture evenly into the prepared pan. cool the bars to room temperature.
4
Anntuh al
Meanwhile, in a blender, combine the coconut butter with the agave nectar, coconut oil, soy lecithin, vanilla, flavored oil and salt. Blend on high speed until emulsified, about 3 minutes. Pour the icing over the krispy treats. transfer the treats to the refrigerator and refrigerate until the icing sets, about 30 to 40 minutes. cut the bars into 2-inch squares. stored in an airtight container in a cool space, the bars will keep for about 1 week. Notes: Puffed quinoa can be found at health food stores. Or make your own by popping dry quinoa on the stove like popcorn. soy lecithin can be found in the vitamin and mineral area of health food stores. — From Jordan Crews, The Original, Portland £
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august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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eat / technique
Make your own vinaigrette By ABIGAIL CHIPLEy PHotoGrAPHy By BEtH nAkAmurA
T
he classic French vinaigrette is a simple formula: three parts oil to one part vinegar. Some salt, some pepper, maybe a dab of Dijon mustard. That’s it. So what’s the trick to making it like the pros? “The key to a great vinaigrette is the emulsification — that’s what makes it delicious,” says Sarah Minnick, co-owner of Lovely’s 50-50 and the mastermind behind the restaurant’s exquisite seasonal salads. There are many different techniques for emulsifying a dressing — you can whiz it in a blender, shake it up in a jar or whisk it together in a large bowl — the
LoVeLy 50-50’s standard Vinaigrette:
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (Minnick uses Edmond Fallot brand) ½ cup champagne vinegar Salt and freshly ground black pepper ¾ to 1 cup best Arbequina olive oil (Minnick uses California Olive Ranch) 1 garlic clove
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1. Combine mustard and vinegar in a metal bowl with a wide bottom. Add a generous amount of salt and pepper. (It should be too salty to the taste at this point.) Whisk to combine.
2. Put olive oil in a squeeze bottle or liquid measuring cup. Pour the oil in a thin stream while slowly stroking the whisk in a back-andforth motion until the dressing is combined. (taste it periodically, before you add the entire amount of olive oil.) the dressing should not burn your throat but have a
nice acidity and saltiness. It should hold together and be a solid color with no separation.
3. Lightly crush the garlic clove
in the bowl, then remove it (the oils from the garlic will flavor the dressing without overpowering it). If the dressing breaks, it can easily be whisked back together.
4. When dressing a salad, be sure to use a light hand — just enough to make the (dry!) lettuce leaves glisten, not drip, and dress it right before serving.
note: this recipe is easily adapted by changing out the acid (replace with lemon or red wine vinegar), or you can use a combination of olive and canola for a lighter flavor). try macerating fresh shallots in the vinegar for more complexity.
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method that Minnick prefers. Her tip: Use a large balloon whisk to whip it all together using a side to side motion. Minnick likes her vinaigrette on the tart side, using a bit more vinegar than the standard ratio. She tastes the dressing as she makes it, advising, “Keep trying it until it doesn’t burn your throat anymore.” And that’s the beauty of taking five minutes to make your own vinaigrette: You can make it how you like it, experiment with different ingredients, and you’ll never have to subject your fresh produce to things like caramel color, xanthan gum and low-grade soybean oil. Your vinaigrette should keep for about two weeks in the fridge. The olive oil will solidify, so just be sure to take the dressing out 10 minutes before you need it so it can come to room temperature. Then shake or whisk to emulsify the oil and vinegar again.
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Vary your Vinaigrette: ⓦ
replace half the vinegar with freshly squeezed lemon juice ⓦ Add finely chopped shallots, garlic, chives, scallions or ginger ⓦ Stir in a few teaspoons of honey or sugar ⓦ Add chopped herbs, such as tarragon, parsley or basil (just before serving) ⓦ replace some of the olive oil with coldpressed walnut, hazelnut, toasted sesame or pumpkin seed oil ⓦ Add sesame or poppy seeds
use it with abandon: think outside the salad bowl: A good vinaigrette doesn’t have to be reserved for lettuce. ⓦ use it to dress steamed green beans, asparagus, snap peas or boiled new potatoes. ⓦ Gussy it up with some minced shallots or garlic and a handful of herbs, and drizzle it over grilled chicken breasts or sautéed white fish. or use it as a dip for roasted or raw vegetables. £
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drink
Wine tasting, Lyle style by KatheRine Cole
F
irst-generation American Alexis Pouillon, 43, is half-French, half-Austrian. He learned the winemaking trade at Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and travels to Europe every other year. He lapses into French periodically. His 36-year-old wife, Juliet, is a former chef. For this cultured couple, there’s no place like home — even though home happens to be a blink-and-you-might-miss it village an hour and a half east of Portland. In fact, they’re so enamored with their backwater hamlet, their wine labels read “Produced and bottled by Domaine Pouillon, Lyle WA, Pop. 511.”
PhotogRaPh (toP) by teRRy RiChaRd, (above) by miKe davis
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The Pouillons are emblematic of the new wave of young creatives washing over Lyle. They’re proud of their easy access to juicy U-pick and farm-stand peaches: “You can slice them up, add sugar and some red wine, and you’ve got pêches au vin — délicieux!” And they enjoy a good float down the Klickitat River. “We are purists,” Alexis says in his proper, Euro-inflected way. Rather than the lowly air mattress, “We believe in the inner tube, which the local
gas station supplies.” (He also believes in bringing along a bottle of rosé, which the local gas station does not supply.) Lyle is an unexplored pocket of breathtaking beauty. The drive from Portland is jaw-dropping, as the road cuts through basalt columns and crosses jetties surrounded by azure waters. It was once a busy steamboat landing where cattle and sheep wranglers would load their live wares onto boats to float down the Columbia. The old
bingen hood river 63 miles to Portland
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1 Memaloose
34 State St. (State Route 14), Lyle; 360-635-2887; winesofthegorge.com He may have studied philosophy at Dartmouth, earned degrees in enology and viticulture at UC Davis and made wine in Alsace, but 42-year-old vigneron Brian McCormick is, first and foremost, an organic farmer. He and his wife, Maria, along with their two boys, own Idiot’s Grace, a farmstead in Mosier providing gorge farmers markets with cherries, pears and heirloom veggies. And then there are the grapes, all 17 varieties. McCormick’s parents, Rob and Barbara, are just as fanatical as their son, farming three additional vineyards of their own in the Lyle area, where the winery and tasting room are located. The family’s labels are chockfull of Lewis and Clark references and the grapes are all sourced solely from the gorge. The tasting room is a simple office space on Lyle’s main drag, but it offers astonishing views and handsome wine-barrel furnishings. What to drink: 2009 Memaloose “Mistral ranch” Columbia Valley red ($22)
This Rhône-style blend of syrah, grenache and a bit of viognier is all about pure, clean, dark and juicy fruit. It’s brisk and exciting, too, reflecting the combined effect of the Columbia Gorge’s bright sunshine and cool, sustained winds on grapes.
in nearby Bingen in 1999. They’ve been on their 35-acre property since 2002, growing grapes, fruits and vegetables with their two daughters and menagerie of animals. Lyle attracts windsurfers, hikers and birders, rafters and fly fishermen. James Mantone is an avid kiteboarder, snowboarder and teleskier. He’s quick to tell you how interesting his neighbors are: They’re entrepreneurs who have developed new educational curricula or new technology for kayak paddles and snowboards. But as far as I’m concerned, the big story here is the burgeoning wine scene. The quality is high and the travel time is low: With just four tasting rooms around town, you can tackle them all in one day. Which leaves time 142 for hiking, windsurfing, birding, LyLe or floating down the Klickitat River in an inner tube, clutching a chilled bottle of rosé.
2 Domaine Pouillon
170 Lyle-Snowden Road, Lyle; 509-365-2795; domainepouillon.com As he pours you his offerings with one arm while holding baby Jean-Pierre in the other, Alexis Pouillon cheerfully admits, “I’m not trying to make varietally correct wines.” But it soon becomes clear that he is making delicious wines. Like their neighbors the Mantones, the Pouillons farm biodynamically and eschew new oak; the result is pure flavor. Time your visit for lunch (pick it up first at Feast Market & Delicatessen, see “Where to Eat”), because Domaine Pouillon’s position — behind a knoll and thus out of the gorge’s driving winds — makes it the ideal spot for a picnic on breezy days. Drive past the old windmill that supplies water to the Pouillon house and winery and make your way to the crush pad, which doubles as an alfresco reception area (a new tasting room should be completed by autumn).
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wagon roads remain, but today, couples like the Pouillons are discovering the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge for its possibilities as a winegrowing region, not to mention its inherent charm as a place to build a life. Domaine Pouillon perches on a hillside some 1,000 feet above sea level, in a savanna of Oregon white oak and ponderosa pine, golden grassland dotted with wildflowers. On a lower slope is Syncline, the winery that planted the oenological flag for this area when owners James and Poppie Mantone, now 40 and 39, began vinifying grapes in a rented warehouse
oo d nt H ou
What to drink: 2010 domaine Pouillon horse heaven hills “Blanc du Moulin” ($24)
A rich, silky and perfumed blend of roussanne and viognier, the “white of the windmill” has the oomph factor to stand up to white meats or grilled vegetables. But it has a clean-linen quality that makes it a delight to sip alone, as well. Thanks to a year spent in neutral barrels, it’s a study in smoothness. august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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drink cont. WHERE TO EAT Feast Market & Delicatessen your picnic pit stop, stocking artisan cheeses and charcuterie, deli sandwiches and salads, gourmet grocery items and gluten-free options. 320 E. Jewett Blvd., White Salmon; 509-637-6886 Henni’s Kitchen & Bar global cuisine, local wines, happy hour, cocktails. What more could you want? 120 E. Jewett Blvd., White Salmon; 509-493-1555; henniskitchenandbar.com
Cor Cellars syncline
Everybody’s Brewing this pub specializes in hoppy yet low-alcohol beers brewed on-site. grab a beer, some pub food, and dine on the outdoor deck. there’s even a make-your-own-meal menu for kids. 151 E. Jewett Blvd., White Salmon; 509-637-2774 The Glass Onion Restaurant & Gallery the locally sourced, stunningly presented food at this remodeled 1902 victorian is well worth the scenic 35-mile drive northeast from lyle. the wine list features local producers. 604 S. Columbus Ave., Goldendale; 509-773-4928; theglassonionrestaurant.com
3 Syncline
111 Balch Road, Lyle; 509-365-4361; synclinewine.com Chickens, dogs, a cat, the occasional turkey and two horses roam James and Poppie Mantone’s 35-acre property, which they farm biodynamically. Their older daughter sells eggs out of the tasting room. If they play their cards right, pintsized visitors might be invited to pick fruit from the colorful organic garden. Inspired by the local loggers who drag timber by hoof, James is training his horses to plow his four acres of grapes. What to drink:
2009 syncline “scintillation” Blanc de Blanc ($40)
Antique riddling racks next to the bar in the tasting room display the next vintage of this knockout sparkling wine, made from chardonnay grown at the historic and famously chilly Celilo Vineyard in Underwood. The Mantones follow the traditional “methode Champenoise,” and if you’re into the geeky details, you’ll want to know that this wine goes through native yeast fermentation and sees no CO2 until dosage. The result: an incredibly light, creamy wine with an impressive mousse, delicate floral notes, a touch of nectarine and a finish of lemon chiffon. PhotogRaPh (toP) by miKe davis (above) by alan beRneR
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4 Cor Cellars
151 Lyle-White Salmon Road, Lyle; 509-365-2744; corcellars.com Luke Bradford, 33, is into whitewater kayaking, ski mountaineering, mountain biking and stand-up paddleboarding. Oh, and he’s also an up-and-coming vintner who trained in Tuscany and Sicily and at Syncline. He puts his white wines in concrete vats instead of barrels and makes concentrated, muscular reds. Don’t miss his powerful interpretations of Bordeaux varieties. And take note: The tasting room may be tiny, but the bathroom is spectacular. (Think lavender-lined walkway and one of the best views in Klickitat County.) What to drink:
2009 Cor Cellars horse heaven hills Momentum ($18)
With soft tannins and plush notes of black cherry, this is a seductive Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot and malbec. Get that barbecue lit, because this wine screams for a juicy piece of red meat.
Huntington’s Bar & Grill a beloved local steakhouse, 13 miles up state Route 142 from lyle. it’s an institution. 95 Main St., Klickitat; 509-369-4371 10-Speed Coffee Roasters What complements wine better than caffeine? For a premium cup, check out this Washington outpost of the popular hood River-based roastery. 166 E. Jewett Blvd., White Salmon; 509-493-1340; 10speedcoffee.com
WHERE TO EXPLORE Just over three miles west of Cor Cellars on the lyle-White salmon Road, the Catherine Creek Trailhead offers a variety of hiking options, from a quarter-mile, wheelchairaccessible path to view Catherine Creek Falls to an 8.2-mile out-and-back trek. three miles east of lyle on state Route14, the undeveloped 400-acre Doug’s Beach State Park is a mecca for windsurfers and kiteboarders. Just across the road from the memaloose tasting room is state Route 142 and the entrance to the Klickitat Trail, a 31-mile rail trail open to hikers and mountain bikers. £
onLine eXTrA: get more
recommendations on Lyle wines and hotels at miXpdX.com
get out Eat away the weekend in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood By hannah wallace / photography By lara ferroni
august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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Ballard, strategically
perched between Puget Sound and Salmon Bay, has always relied on the sea. The area started out as a thriving lumber port, but by the end of the 19th century, when Scandinavian immigrants arrived in droves, it became a center of the fishing industry. Today this Seattle neighborhood is better known for its eclectic shops, flourishing restaurant scene and lively yearround farmers market. But remnants of its maritime heritage are still very much on display. Not only is its fishing fleet the largest north of San Francisco, but Ballard’s restaurants are anchored by a devotion to seafood from local purveyors — from the clamstudded pizzas at Delancey to the shellfish and sushi-grade albacore served at the Golden Beetle. For a change of scenery, without having to leave urban conveniences behind, Seattle is Portland’s perfect weekend getaway. And you could eat your way through the entire trip in Ballard and neighboring Fremont alone. The past few months have seen a flurry of new restaurants opening, including Sexton, with its small plates of Southern comfort food like fried Brussels sprouts, and Urban Family Public House, with its stellar tap list, which includes everything from local favorite Elysian to Denmark’s Evil Twin Brewing. There seems to be something tasty on every corner. Here’s our itinerary for two days in Seattle’s hottest ’hood.
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Delancey
revel Friday night There’s a reason the wait is so long at Delancey (1415 N.W. 70th St., 206-838-1960, delanceyseattle.com), a pint-sized pizza parlor on a sleepy side street of Ballard. Molly Wizenberg, author of the beloved food blog Orangette, opened it with husband Brandon Pettit in 2009, and it quickly generated a word-ofmouth following for its crispy wood-ovenfired pies. Though the din in the concretefloored dining room can be deafening, the food is sublime. Start with a seasonal salad like wood-oven-roasted radicchio, preserved Meyer lemon, garlic bread crumbs and anchovy vinaigrette — and then order a few pies. You can’t go wrong with dough that’s risen overnight and locally sourced toppings such as clams, cremini mushrooms and Zoe’s bacon. That said, the white pie — with house-made ricotta, fresh and aged mozzarella, garlic and a dusting of Grana Padano — disappeared from our table the fastest. Save room for one of Wizenberg’s bittersweet chocolate chip cookies, which arrive gooey and sprinkled with gray salt. Can’t get enough? Take a pizza-making class with Pettit next door at Pantry at Delancey (206-321-5620, thepantry-
atdelancey.com). And Essex, the couple’s new craft cocktail bar, is slated to open this summer in the adjacent space. Expect house-made vermouth, carbonated cocktails, root beer and sipping vinegars. Saturday Korean comfort food for brunch? After tasting the caramel coffee roll (sprinkled with cocoa nibs and topped with a pinch of Korean sea salt) at Fremont’s new Revel (403 N. 36th St., 206-547-2040, revelseattle.com), you’ll see why this is a profoundly good idea. Though perhaps better known for its asparagus rice bowl — heralded by former New York Times food critic Frank Bruni as “the best messy food I ever ate” — Revel is quickly becoming a brunch destination. Order a French press coffee (the beans are roasted by Seattle’s Caffe Vita) and a few pastries while you peruse the unusual menu. Will you choose sweet (house-made kaffir lime yogurt topped with mango slices and puffed rice) or savory (a nourishing red curry congee with mushrooms, summer squash and house-cured bacon)? Those with a less-adventurous palate can always opt for two eggs served with thick slabs of bacon, scallion hash and toast. If you think
D’ambrosio you might want a craft cocktail later that night, make a mental note that chef-owners Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi — the husband-and-wife team that’s also behind the Wallingford neighborhood’s popular Joule — also own Quoin, the chic bar next door. After a day of shopping and walking through the Locks (see “While You’re There”), stop by Bitterroot BBQ (5239 Ballard Ave. N.W.; 206-588-1577; bitterrootbbq.com), where the meat is smoked on-site using apple and alder woods. Order some pickled deviled eggs and jalapeño hush puppies before digging into entrees like beef brisket (with two sides) and pulled pork sandwiches (served on pretzel rolls from Tall Grass Bakery). Mac-and-cheese enthusiasts will love that you can add your own mix-ins — from English peas to lardons. Portions are hearty, so sharing is advised. If Middle Eastern is more your speed, settle into one of the banquettes at Golden Beetle (1744 N.W. Market St.; 206-706-2977; golden-beetle.com) and order a cocktail, such as the Communist: London dry gin with orange juice, lemon juice and Cherry Heering. As at Tilth, chef Maria Hines’ popular Wallingford restaurant, 99 percent of the ingredients
golden Beetle are organic. You could easily compose a dinner from small plates alone: olives, tzatziki, grilled halloumi with Padrón peppers, white prawn falafel with cabbage and harissa mayo, and, last but not least, the addictive sumac-dusted potatoes (fried in beef fat). But that would mean missing the fine entrees, such as seared sushi-grade albacore (troll-caught from the nearby St. Jude fishing vessel) served with eggplant, urfu pepper and pearl couscous. For dessert, wander over to Hot Cakes (5427 Ballard Ave. N.W.; 206-420-3431; getyourhotcakes.com), baker Autumn Martin’s first storefront shop. (She used to have a stand at the Ballard Farmers Market. Before that, she was “Head Chocolatier” for Theo Chocolate.) Here, you will find not only her “take-n-bake” molten chocolate cakes (served in small Mason jars), but her extraordinarily flaky hand pies in flavors like apple cardamom ginger. If you’re craving something cool instead, hit D’Ambrosio (5339 Ballard Ave. N.W., 206-327-9175, dambrosiogelato.com) for a scoop or two of Italian gelato. Fatherson owners Marco and Enzo D’Ambrosio make small batches throughout the day, often with seasonal ingredients. Try the tiramisu or pistacchio
ocho di Bronte, made from intensely aromatic Sicilian pistachios. Sunday Pastry aficionados speak of Cafe Besalu (5909 24th Ave. N.W., 206-789-1463, cafebesalu.com) in hushed, reverent tones. Baker James Miller, who opened the cafe 11 years ago with his wife, Kaire, creates the platonic ideal of a croissant — that unfathomable combination of airy lightness and buttery richness. Add a dab of their homemade strawberry jam, and you’ll think you’ve gone to heaven. Also not to miss: the fresh fruit Danish, a hearty slice of spinach and caramelized onion quiche, and the pan au chocolate, made with Callebaut bittersweet chocolate. Arrive at 7 a.m.; midmorning lines have been known to stretch a full block. For a midday meal, you can’t do better than the “happy hour” at Ocho (2325 N.W. Market St., 206-784-0699, ochoballard.com), which generously extends a full six hours on weekends (noon-6 p.m.). Cocktails such as the spicy Donkey Tongue (chile-infused tequila with a cucumberpomegranate liqueur) are discounted by $2. Even better, there’s a $2 tapas menu of Spanish morsels such as the paprika-dusted august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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Staple & fancy
Dinner Tues-Sat 6-close Happy Hour: Tues-Sat 4-6pm & 9-Close, Sunday 4-close
make reservations today
NE 30th & Killingsworth, Portland OR
503.227.2669 www. CocottePDX .com
4816 SW Scholls Ferry Rd, Portland OR
MaggiesBoutiqueOnline.com
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Ballard farmers Market patatas bravas served with an addictive artichoke aioli, tortilla española and the aptly named banderilla de boquerón (a tiny boat made of a fried artichoke heart with an anchovy sail). Order from the regular tapas menu for the brócoli — roasted on a skillet and tossed with escarole, garlic and pine nuts — and the house-made seitan chorizo, which is much better than it sounds. The desolate fringe of South Ballard is now a destination thanks to the arrival of two buzzy restaurants that share the ground floor of the historic Kolstrand building (formerly the base of a marine supply firm). Swing by the Walrus and the Carpenter (4743 Ballard Ave. N.W., 206-395-9227, thewalrusbar.com) for a glass of Muscadet and about half a dozen varieties of sparkling fresh Washington oysters, plus a few from British Columbia. You could easily finish your meal here with the simple but exquisite salads (wilted pea vines, brown butter and pecorino) and inventive small plates (geoduck crudo with Meyer lemon, watercress and radish), but you’d be remiss if you didn’t go to Staple & Fancy Mercantile next door. The ingredients at chef Ethan Stow-
ell’s bustling 2-year-old restaurant, staple & Fancy (4739 Ballard Ave. N.W., 206789-1200, ethanstowellrestaurants.com), are so fresh that the tasting menu changes hourly. Even if you don’t opt for the fourcourse menu (which you should — it’s a steal at $45), come hungry. Portions are hearty and intended to be shared. You might start with a generous bowl of silky heirloom tomato gazpacho with chunks of Dungeness crab and a drizzle of basil oil or an artfully composed salad of watercress, beets, avocado and radishes, bracketed by two halves of a soft-boiled egg. On our visit we tried the bigoli, a hollow spaghetti-like buckwheat noodle, coated in a sauce of anchovies and garlic and tangled with lightly breaded pieces of cuttlefish. The lightly seared ono (a firm, mild-tasting fish from Hawaii) paired with a farro-cherry tomato salad with firm Taggiasca olives and crème fraîche was a revelation of textures and flavors. There are few vegetarian dishes on the a la carte menu, but those that are on it are every bit as delicious as the meatier plates, especially the green beans with crispy shallots, topped with a gooey duck’s egg.
While You’re there
Korean comfort food at revel, p30
After brunch, stop at theo Chocolates (3400 Phinney Ave. N., 206-632-5100, theochocolate.com) for a tour of the factory. When it opened in 2006, Theo was the first organic and Fair Trade chocolate factory in the country. The company now produces bars and confections of all kinds — from salted almond to coconut curry. (Don’t miss the chipotle spice sipping chocolate.) It’s best to reserve your spot on the tour online, as they are often booked up three to four weeks in advance. There are some daily walkin tours, with first-come, first-served tickets available starting at 10 a.m. when the store opens. Every Sunday in Ballard should start with a trip to the Ballard Farmers Market (10 a.m. to 3 p.m., ballardfarmersmarket. wordpress.com), a yearround smorgasbord of local produce, cheese, fish, raw milk, honey, flowers and even locally brewed kombucha. Standouts include Billy’s heirloom tomatoes, Nash’s organic, multihued carrots, and emmer wheat (aka farro) from Bluebird Grain Farms. More than 54,000 vessels — from sailboats to barges — pass through the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks every year (seattle. gov/tour/locks.htm). It’s easy to be mesmerized by their progress as they sail in from the Puget Sound and rise as the locks fill, then move into the freshwater Ship Canal. From July to September you can also watch salmon swim up the fish ladder. Just north of the locks is the Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Garden, which is at its best in late spring and early summer. £ august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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get out / b&bs
Northwest B&Bs with food as dreamy as the destinations Smart Pacific Northwest residents know summer means staying put and enjoying our long-awaited blue skies. But staying put doesn’t mean staying home. Some of the most gorgeous destinations are just a day-trip away. Still, no one wants to end a blissful day ogling the Northwest’s beauty by bunking at a generic motel and eating greasy takeout. So we rounded up five great places to sleep, near some of our favorite places, where the food alone is worth the drive.
1. The Willows Inn, Lummi Island, Wash. The San Juan Islands are a bit of a hike from PDX, but The New York Times deemed Willows one of the world’s “10 restaurants worth a plane ride,” so no excuses. Two hours north of Seattle and a short ferry ride gets you to the island and one of the best culinary adventures you may ever have. The chef, 26-year-old Blaine Wetzel, was named one of Food & Wine’s best new chefs this year. He is a disciple of the New Nordic style, creating artful meals culled almost entirely from the island’s foragers, farmers and fishermen (think Castagna, but in the Puget Sound), and concocting house cocktails such as the
Spotted Owl — Aviation gin, nettle purée and house-made Douglas fir eau de vie. At the complimentary breakfast, expect dishes such as herbed frittata, fresh-baked scones and justpicked berries over rich yogurt. 2579 West Shore Drive, Lummi Island, WA., 360-758-2620, willows-inn.com — M.J. CODY
2. Black Walnut Inn, Dundee If a luxury villa in Tuscany isn’t in your travel budget, just head an hour west of Portland to the Red Hills of Dundee. There the Black Walnut Inn sits on a terrace overlooking the Willamette Valley and 13 acres of pinot noir vines. The inn’s garden and hens provide
top: tHE WILLoWS INN, LUMMI ISLAND, WASH. ABoVE: BLACK WALNUt INN, DUNDEE
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much of the fresh produce and eggs for the made-to-order breakfast (raspberry smoothie, warm-from-the-oven currant scones, arugula/ham/Parmesan baked eggs). Extras include a private wine-tasting room, seasonal dinner events and cooking classes. 9600 N.E. Worden Hill Road, Dundee, 503-538-8663, blackwalnut-inn.com
— M.J. CODY
3. Heceta Head Lighthouse, Yachats Perched atop a cliff, ocean waves crashing far below, this antiques-filled former lighthouse keeper’s home is the setting for a sevencourse breakfast extravaganza. Start with select Schondecken coffee, seasonal fruit and pastries, move on to Dungeness crab cakes or shrimp mousse, then a blueberry and citrusspiked white chocolate frappé (to clear the palate!) before, say, a vegetable-gouda strata alongside chicken-apple-cherry sausages, and, lest we forget, dessert (hot apple pie with maple whipped cream or peach crumble drizzled with marionberry-wine sauce). 92072 Highway 101 South, Yachats, 866-547-3696, hecetalighthouse.com
6580 NE M INERAL S PRINGS R D C ARLTON , OR 97111 503-684-2991 CONTACTUS@ANNEAMIE.COM
www.anneamie.com
S UMMER W INEMAKER’ S D INNER WITH GUEST RESTAURANT
N ED LUDD
S A T U R DA Y , S E P TE MB E R 8 TH T I C K E T S O N SA L E N O W V I SI T O U R W E B SI T E F O R M O R E D E TA I L S
OPEN
D A I LY
1 0 AM-5 PM
— M.J. CODY
4. Lara House, Bend Find Craftsman comfort in downtown Bend. Arrive to an afternoon social featuring regional Northwest wines (or beer), hors d’oeuvres and artisan cheeses. Breakfast is a multicourse wonder that starts out healthy with house-made granola, organic yogurt and seasonal fruit. Next up, carbo-load with gingerbread waffles or baked blackberry French toast before digging into protein (baked salmon and asparagus eggs or an artichoke sausage frittata). To finish, will it be pudding or tarts? 640 N.W. Congress St., Bend, 541-388-4064, larahouse.com
Lunch - Brunch - Dinner - Sightseeing
— M.J. CODY
5. Coastal Mountain Sporthaus, Vernonia This modern, eco-friendly inn halfway between Portland and Astoria is geared to cyclists — there’s an outdoor soaking tub to soothe weary muscles, morning yoga class, and guests who bike to the inn get a 10 percent discount. The menu melds Italian cuisine with seasonal, locally sourced Northwest ingredients (wild mushroom risotto with morels picked on-site). In the fall, guests can forage for chanterelles that will end up in their next meal. Occasionally the owners offer special events. On Sept. 15, they’re hosting a five-course harvest dinner featuring Piedmontese beef from the ranch where Mario Batali sources his meat. 66845 Nehalem Highway North, Vernonia, 503-429-6940, coastalmountainsporthaus.com
Portland Spirit Cruises 800-224-3901 or 503-224-3900 www.portlandspirit.com
— HANNAH WALLACE august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT
Mr.
Yoshida's
Gourmet Sports Car
By KRISTEN HALL-GEISLER SPECIAL WRITER
J
unki Yoshida, creator of the Portland-based gourmet sauce empire, bought his first sports late last year at Lexus of Portland, as soon as the one available Lexus LFA in the state of Oregon became available. That’s right — one Lexus LFA in the state. There are only 500 being built for worldwide sale, so Yoshida was lucky to get that one. (It helps to count the presi-
dent of Toyota’s US operations as a personal friend.) But Yoshida had never even driven an exotic sports car before — no Ferrari, no Lamborghini, nothing — let alone owned one himself. What made him decide to plunk down so much money ($375,000 MSRP) on a highperformance car he’d never seen in person? “Mainly it’s an investment,” Yoshida said. “It’s the first Lexus super car. Whatever they put on
the market would be the best of the best.” He’s owned seven Lexus models in the past and never experienced a breakdown, a quality he expects to carry over even to the super car The LFA is indeed a super car by any definition, with a carbonfiber body, 552 horsepower, and an electronically limited top speed of 202 mph. Yoshida admits he’s not much of a sports car guy. “My style is a Toyota Prius,” he
said. “This car is too fast.” But he drives the car once a week to work. He said lots of people take pictures of the low-slung, windswept LFA as he drives by, and the car has already been on TV twice in Japan, where he has three shows on the air. Kristen Hall-Geisler is a Portland-based freelance automotive writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times. She can be reached at khg@kristenhallgeisler.com.
Luxury Dealerships in the MIX.
Lexus of Portland 9655 SW Canyon Road Portland, OR 97225 888-579-2873 www.rontonkinacura.com
8840 SW Canyon Road Portland, OR 97225 503-297-9017 www. lexusofportland.com
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calendar
PHOTOGRAPH BY TATIANA WILLS
Our picks for what to do when COMPILED BY GRANT BUTLER
Preview
Boldly go to trek in the Park Atomic Arts brings back its popular Trek in the Park series with a campy re-creation of the classic “Star Trek” episode “Journey to Babel” — you know, the one with the blue-faced aliens with antennae coming out of their heads. Expect many of the charming hallmarks of the company’s previous shows, which have drawn big crowds and earned notice on National Public Radio and TV’s “Portlandia.” Those crowds have prompted the company to move their weekends-only shows from tiny Woodlawn Park in Northeast Portland to the much-larger Cathedral Park in St. Johns. At Woodlawn, only a hundred or so audience members could fit into the small amphitheater. The new North Portland venue features a permanent stage and a natural, slow-rising amphitheater, which can hold much larger audiences than the smaller park. The new venue also offers beautiful views of the St. Johns Bridge and the Willamette River and is perfect for enjoying picnics and squirt gun fights before the show. Set phasers to stunning! Leading the company again this year is Adam Rosko, who showed plenty of swagger as Captain Kirk in the first three seasons, particularly during last year’s re-creation of the “Mirror, Mirror” episode, where he perfectly channeled the hammy style of original star William Shatner. Also returning are Paul Pistey as acerbic Dr. McCoy, Jesse Graff as Mr. Spock and Dana Thompson as a spunky Lieutenant Uhura. 5 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays, Aug. 4-26, Cathedral Park; free; atomic-arts.org
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SQUEALS ON WHEELS
PARK IT AND PICNIC
AUG. 2: Pack a picnic and head to the amphitheater in Washington Park for a free performance by Portland’s engaging modern dance company BodyVox. To celebrate 15 years of dance, the troupe will pull out a collection of favorite pieces and rarities from their repertoire of nearly 200 works. The performance kicks off the Washington Park Summer Festival, which continues nightly through Aug. 12, with performances by the Portland Festival Symphony, a performance of the opera “Die Fledermaus” and a screening of the cult movie “Plan Nine From Outer Space,” with live music and sound effects. bodyvox.com, tinyurl.com/4xhank7
MOVIE STARS, REAL STARS
AUG. 2: One of the coolest film series of the year — top Down Rooftop Cinema — features fun, vintage films shown on the top of the Hotel deLuxe parking garage. Thursday nights through Aug. 30, there’s everything from zombies to Motown greats on-screen. Tonight, it’s comedy with “The Ghost and Mr. Chicken,” in which Don Knotts plays a jittery investigative reporter whose nerves are tested when he has to spend a night in a longabandoned, haunted mansion. Yeah, that could happen. While watching, sip cocktails from Gracie’s Restaurant. nwfilm.org
AUG. 18: If you think “old-fashioned” when you hear “soapbox derby,” you haven’t been to the Portland adult soapbox Derby. The little gravity-powered cars are made up to look like Lego building blocks, mousetraps and rocket ships, and they go speeding down Mount Tabor Park’s steep roadways, sometimes crashing on tight curves. There are plenty of spots for watching the spectacle along the safest parts of the course, and there’s an after-party where you can see which rider scored the mostimpressive bruise. soapboxracer.com
NOW THAT’S ITALIAN!
AUG. 23-25:
Tarantellas and tambourines turn Pioneer Courthouse Square into the sort of party not seen since the Roman Empire with the 21st Festa Italiana, which this year will include a performance by Italian singing sensation Franco Corso. Expect grapestomping demonstrations, folk dancing and free-flowing Italian wines. To pair with it all are dishes from local Italian restaurants. festaitalianaportland.shutterfly.com
TAKE A BITE!
AUG. 10-12: The Special Olympics
fundraiser the Bite of Oregon features food vendors and wineries from around the state, plus an appearance by Food Network personality Aaron McCargo Jr., the winner of Season 4 of “The Next Food Network Star” and host of “Big Daddy’s House.” The Bite, now in its 29th year, will feature some of Portland’s best food carts in addition to fare from regular restaurants, plus many chef demonstrations and 100 samplings from independent wineries, all in Tom McCall Waterfront Park. biteoforegon.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY KURT JOHNSON
SUNDAY IN SOUTHEAST
WildAire cellars
AUG. 26: Wrap up your summer with an afternoon exploring Southeast Portland with sunday Parkways. The nine-mile route takes you through three of the Laurelhurst and Hawthorne neighborhood’s prettiest parks — Laurelhurst Park, Colonel Summers Park and Mount Tabor Park. This year, it’s being held in conjunction with the Hawthorne street Fair, featuring avant-garde street performers, live music and plenty of local food to eat. tinyurl.com/can7utz and hawthornestreetfair.com
Join us for Walk in the Park in Carlton August 18-19 and the Wine Country Half Marathon on Labor Day Sunday.
G R E AT
Escapes
WILDAIRE CELLARS TASTING ROOM WWW.WILDAIRECELLARS.COM 128 WEST MAIN STREET, SUITE B CARLTON, OREGON 97111 503.851.3689
12-5PM FRIDAYS 12-7PM
OPEN DAILY
G R E A T
Escapes
KISS SUMMER GOODBYE
AUG. 30: The August edition of Last
thursday in the Alberta Arts District typically is one of the busiest of the monthly celebrations of art, food and drink along Northeast Alberta Street. Begin your exploration with drinks at The Bye and Bye, then head east to pick up Mexican food from the taco truck Los Gorditos. After that, watch street performers and purchase original art from sidewalk pop-up galleries. lastthursdayonalberta.com, thebyeandbye.com, losgorditospdx.com
Worth the drive.
GR E AT
Escapes
AN ABSOLUTE DOLL
Par 72 links course with challenging elevations, big greens, and a 400-yard driving range
Escapes
GREAT
AUG. 31: Grammy-winning jazz singer and pianist Diana Krall is known for live performances that combine her sensual singing style with a sense of humor. Expect her concert at the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall to offer a sneak preview of her new recording, “Glad Rag Doll,” a collection of music from the 1920s and ’30s that’s being released this fall. dianakrall.com
Just1414miles milessouth south of La Grande, Or. Just Ore. f Course
e Nptein d Here BaPacsskAcce k Gol
Buffalo Pea
I-84 East exit I-84 I-84East Easttototoexit exit 265 265265
Play Buffalo Peak Golf Course, get a Back Nine Pass to save on dining, shopping & more! For lodging & travel info, contact
UnionCountyChamber.org 800.848.9969
Jump in the car for a short drive to Silverwood, the northwest’s largest theme park, a place filled with fun and excitement for everyone! Gigantic steel & massive wooden roller coasters, raft rides, a skyscraping drop tower, oceans of wave pools, slides & a laid back lazy river. Just North of Coeur d’Alene, ID On Hwy 95 (NE of Spokane , WA)
1-208-683-3400 silverwoodthemepark.com
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get together
Lake Billy Chinook, in 24 hours A summer overnighter with a float in a boat By Lila Martin / Photography by Taylor Schefstrom
In Portland, summer’s end can feel like a frantic rush to seize every glorious moment. Finding my calendar clear one recent weekend, I decided on a quick one-night camping trip but wanted four of my girlfriends to come along. To entice them to make room in their own busy schedules, I devised a plan that none of them could refuse: a gorgeous setting within a reasonable drive, a fabulous menu and lots of sunshine. Oh, and a boat ride. Early that Saturday afternoon, our packed cars headed east toward central Oregon. The destination was Cove Palisades State Park, a high desert oasis about three hours from the city where the wide-yet-serpentine Lake Billy Chinook sits at the bottom of Crooked River Canyon. Once the road drops down toward the lake itself, basalt cliff sides and vast lake views border the asphalt snaking ahead. Around the lake are convenient car campsites, which are best for a short trip like this one. When we checked in and the ranger told us, “Sometime tonight they’ll come by with a wagon with ice and wood,” I knew I had picked the right place. My friend Elizabeth made quick use of that ice by making us each a “Backcountry Bramble,” a muddled gin cocktail she created with fresh Chester blackberries. We sipped those out of canning jars and nibbled on charcuterie we brought from Chop while setting august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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Menu COCkTAIL HOuR: The Backcountry Bramble Various Pâtés and Terrines from Chop DInnER: Tutu’s kalbi Ribs Zingy Zucchini and Carrot Ribbons Grilled Padrón Peppers Short Grain White Rice Wine DESSERT: S’mores BREAkFAST: Lavender Granola Parfaits Bacon Coffee LunCH: Oregon Shrimp Rolls Marinated Cucumbers and Roasted Tomatoes With Tarragon Watermelon Potato chips Cold drinks
up camp and starting dinner. I brought Hawaiian-style short ribs marinated overnight to grill over the fire. My friend Brenda tended to those while I tossed a carrot and zucchini salad that mimicked the effect of kimchi: pungent, spicy, acidic and still a bit crisp. It balanced the fat of the meat and soaked into the white rice. Padrón peppers, a summer delicacy that begs to be grilled, added a burst of color to our plates. We devoured that meal, eating every bone clean as the sun set behind the ponderosa pines. The next morning we kept breakfast simple so we could pack up and get to the lake early. The girls fried bacon and made coffee while I put together canning-jar parfaits of yogurt, blackberries, blueberries and homemade lavender granola with pecans. Reusing items like the canning jars, and
using the same ingredient in different things, like the blackberries, kept the packing and prep for the trip manageable. Even that far inland, when I think of water I think of seafood, and when I think of seafood in the summer, I think of lobster rolls. But this is Oregon, so I used one of my favorite local proteins: Oregon pink shrimp. I kept them simply seasoned, and served them with a mix of marinated cucumbers and roasted tomatoes my friend Andrea whipped up before the trip. The tangy salad perfectly offset the richness of the rolls. We swam and sunbathed, ate and laughed, surrounded by the sparkling water and a brilliant blue sky. When we returned to the city that evening, we felt as though we had left long ago, not merely the day before. It was the best use of 24 hours that I can possibly think of.
Make-Ahead Timeline UP To 2 weekS BefoRe: ⓦ Make granola UP To 2 DayS BefoRe: ⓦ Make the marinated cucumber salad ⓦ Make a batch of the cocktail base 1 Day BefoRe: ⓦ Marinate short ribs ⓦ Prepare dressing for Zingy Carrot and Zucchini Ribbons ⓦ Make filling for shrimp rolls
The Backcountry Bramble MakeS 1 SeRving
This cocktail, shaken and served in the same jar, is genius for camping. 2 ounces ransom Small’s gin Juice of ½ lemon ½ ounce Clear Creek distillery Blackberry Liqueur 5 fresh blackberries 1 tablespoon granulated sugar ice cubes 3 ounces soda water
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Combine all ingredients except ice and soda water in a pint-sized canning jar. fill the jar three-quarters full with ice. fasten the lid to
the jar and shake very vigorously. Remove the lid, top with the soda water and enjoy. Note: instead of bringing each ingredient separately, you can mix a batch of the spirits, lemon juice and sugar together in a quartsize canning jar (be sure to keep it in the trunk while you’re in transit). when it’s time to serve, portion it out into individual jars, add the blackberries and ice, shake and top with soda water. — From Elizabeth McElligott
105 miles to Portland
Deschutes River
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Lake Billy Chinook
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How to re-create this trip Camping: Cove Palisades State Park’s Deschutes Campground has 92 drive-up tent campsites with access to running water, bathrooms and ice/firewood delivery, but it can be quite crowded. Choose a site on the outer loops for a bit more privacy. The campsites can and should be reserved online as far in advance as possible, but once you’re there, you can ask to switch sites if you spot an open one that you like better. oregonstateparks.org Boating: Cove Palisades Marina rents various types of boats by the full and half day. The pontoon boats are a fun choice for a day on the lake with a group of friends; they’re like a floating sun deck. covepalisadesresort.com swimming: Motor up to the Metolius arm of the lake. The water there is cleaner, calmer and a bit warmer. Lunching: There are a numerous coves on the lake, some of which are on the maps available at the marina. The cove on the right-hand side before Round Butte Dam is a great place to stop for lunch when its waterfall is flowing.
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Lavender-Pecan Granola Parfaits
to make the granola: Preheat oven to 300˚f. in a large bowl, mix together the first 7 ingredients. in a small saucepan, heat remaining granola ingredients except lavender on low heat until just bubbling and mixed. add lavender and allow to sit for 10 minutes over very low heat. work honey mixture into dry mixture with a spatula until evenly distributed. Spread evenly on two cookie sheets.
MakeS 6 SeRvingS
audra Query Lawlor, an old friend and author of the blog girl Meets Dirt (www.minnowcreeklane.com), created the granola i use in these parfaits after finding an overabundance of lavender in her garden on orcas island. you’ll have about 4 cups of granola leftover after making the parfaits, but that’s a good thing. granola: 4 cups thick cut oats 1 cup steel cut oats
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup quinoa flakes
2 tablespoons ground dried lavender buds (use a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to finely grind)
½ cup oat bran ¼ cup ground flax seed 2 cups pecans, roughly chopped
Parfaits:
½ teaspoon salt
1 pint blueberries
¼ to ½ cup honey (more if you like it sweet)
2 pints blackberries
¼ cup light agave nectar
4 cups organic greek-style yogurt
2 tablespoons butter
Honey for drizzling
Bake for about 30 minutes, or until deep golden brown, checking at 15-minute intervals to rotate sheets and stir and prevent edges from burning. Remove from oven and cool. (granola can be stored in an airtight container for 2 weeks). to make the parfaits: Spoon yogurt into 6 pint-size canning jars in a thick layer to cover the bottom. Sprinkle about an inch of granola over the yogurt, and drizzle honey on top of it. Cover the granola layer with a mixture of berries, and continue in that order until the jar is filled. Top with a couple of berries and serve. — From Audra Query Lawlor and Lila Martin
Tutu’s kalbi Ribs MakeS 6 SeRvingS
5 cloves of garlic, finely minced
when i found this recipe for korean-style kalbi short ribs in one of my grandmother’s yellowed cookbooks, i felt like i discovered a treasure. There are hundreds of variations on the recipe for this marinade, but this is my family’s favorite.
1 inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced into thin strips
1½ cups aloha Shoyu (see note) ½ cup vegetable oil 3 tablespoons granulated sugar ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted in a skillet
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4 scallions 4 pounds cross-cut beef short ribs (called flanken or Korean-style) in a medium bowl, combine the shoyu, oil and sugar, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Stir in the pepper, sesame seeds, garlic and ginger. Thinly slice the white and light green parts of the scallions and stir into the marinade. Thinly slice the dark green tops and set aside for the garnish. Divide ribs equally into two plastic zip-top freezer bags. Pour half of marinade into one of the bags, remove all the
air possible, and seal. Repeat with the second bag. Refrigerate overnight. Pull ribs out of the cooler 15 minutes prior to cooking. grill to desired doneness, turning once, about 3 minutes on each side. if you’re at home, they can also be broiled in the oven. whichever your cooking method, keep a close eye on the ribs; they cook very quickly. Sprinkle with reserved chopped scallions and serve. Note: aloha Shoyu, a sweet, light soy sauce, can be purchased at anzen or Uwajimaya. it is a favorite in Hawaii, and it makes all the difference in this recipe. — From Lila Martin
Oregon Shrimp Rolls MakeS 6 SeRvingS
Because of the mild flavor of the shrimp salad, it’s important to keep the bread-toshrimp ratio in balance. i recommend overstuffing the rolls and using small, soft hot dog buns like franz. if you prefer using those from a local bakery, slice the top off the bun lengthwise, so that the sandwich isn’t too bready. 1½ pounds cooked Oregon pink shrimp, rinsed and drained
8 scallions, white and light green part, finely minced ⁄3 cup mayonnaise
1
Juice of two small lemons 4-5 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning Kosher salt to taste ½ cup finely diced red bell pepper 2
⁄3 cup seeded diced cucumber
1 ripe but firm avocado (divided) 6 white hot dog buns
in a medium bowl, mix together the shrimp, scallions, mayonnaise and lemon juice. Stir in old Bay seasoning and salt to taste. fold in the diced red bell pepper and cucumber. (you can make the recipe up to this point 1 day ahead.) Before serving, dice half the avocado and carefully fold it in. Slice the remaining avocado. fill the buns until almost overflowing with the shrimp mixture, and top with three thin slices of avocado each. Serve with a lemon wedge. — Adapted from Lila Martin
6 lemon wedges for serving
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Zingy Zucchini and Carrot Ribbons with a vegetable peeler, carefully peel long strips of the zucchini and carrots into a mixing bowl. Peel the zucchini just until you reach the seeds, and the carrots until you reach the core. you should have about 7 cups of vegetable ribbons when loosely packed into a measuring cup. Place ribbons in a serving bowl.
MakeS 6 SeRvingS
This dish is somewhere between a condiment and a salad, depending on how long it rests in the dressing. i like it best after 10 minutes. Dressing: ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar 3 teaspoons Thai fish sauce (not paste) 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon sambal oelek chili sauce 2 teaspoons granulated sugar 1 garlic clove, finely minced salad: 2 large zucchini 5 small carrots (or 2 large), peeled
⁄3 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1
in a small jar with a tight lid, shake together all of the dressing ingredients. you can make this dressing in a jar the morning of the trip, which will allow the flavors to meld all day.
Pour the dressing and chopped cilantro over the ribbons and toss until fully coated. allow the vegetables to sit in the pool of dressing for about 10 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a plate with tongs, draining them of the dressing. There will be a good amount of extra dressing. if serving the salad alongside short ribs and rice, use the extra dressing to drizzle on the rice. Transfer it to a small bowl and serve along with the rice. — From Lila Martin
Marinated Cucumbers and Roasted Tomatoes With Tarragon MakeS aBoUT 1½ QUaRTS
1½ pounds heirloom cherry tomatoes in a variety of colors 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1½ teaspoons salt (divided) 2 large cucumbers 1 small red onion, julienned ½ cup rice vinegar 3 tablespoons granulated sugar ½ teaspoon crushed black peppercorns 2 tablespoons tarragon leaves Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Cut the tomatoes in halves (or quarters for larger ones) and toss with the olive oil and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Scatter the mixture on a rimmed baking sheet and roast in the oven until the
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skins are wilted and beginning to caramelize and the flesh is partially dehydrated, about 2 hours. Cool the tomatoes completely. (you can roast the tomatoes several days ahead and refrigerate.) Meanwhile, peel 5 or 6 strips running the length of each cucumber. Slice the cucumbers into paper-thin circles using a
mandoline (or sharp chef’s knife). Toss the cucumbers with the onion in a large, nonreactive mixing bowl. Mix together the vinegar, sugar, remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, and the pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the cucumber mixture and toss to combine. Toss in the tarragon leaves. when the tomatoes are cool, scrape them off the roasting pan into the cucumber mixture (you can spoon a little of the dressing onto the pan to help loosen the browned bits and pour it all into the bowl). Refrigerate the salad and allow to marinate for at least 3 hours before serving. Pack the salad into a glass canister with a tight-fitting lid and transport in a cooler for camping. (The salad keeps for up to 2 weeks, but after 4 or 5 days the cucumbers lose their bright green color and turn into pickles.) — From Andrea Slonecker
COME EAT SOME GREAT FOOD. THEN SEE WHERE IT CAME FROM. ON SECOND THOUGHT, GO SEE WHERE IT CAME FROM FIRST, THEN EAT IT. 100 CHEFS, 40 EVENTS, ONE INCREDIBLE FOOD DESTINATION September 20-23, 2012 / Get tickets at feastportland.com /
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get together
Beach party, chef-style crabbing, cooking and camping with some of portland’s best chefs By Bryan steelman photography By randy l. rasmussen
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In the 1950s my wife’s grandfather found a piece of property sandwiched between a little lake and the Oregon coast for a meager sum of $400. his name was neil Kelly, founder of the remodeling company, and he built the original beach house out of garage doors. It was a place for kids to learn about freedom and exploration, and wheeler for adults to feel soulful. Sixty years later, the place still invokes this same magic, and I’m convinced it’s the easiest place to breathe on the planet. When a mighty windstorm in
75 miles to Portland cannon beach
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Nehalem Bay
rockaway beach
2007 knocked the old house off its foundation, five generations of our family erected a new one — one that could handle large gatherings for the innumerable generations that will follow. One that could handle dinner parties of epic proportions. And I love putting it to the test. I don’t think there’s anything better than being in a beautiful place with my family and friends, eating delicious food. the beach house lets me bring those elements together, and for a recent party I couldn’t resist inviting 50 people. We also asked everyone to bring camping gear so we could enjoy dinner together, as well as breakfast the next day. Most of the group came out early
because we needed to do some modern day hunting and gathering. Crabbing is one of my favorite things to do and I wanted to build the party around it. (It’s so much fun, every September we close my two Por Qué no restaurants for a few days and take the staff to the beach for a crabbing adventure. We rent almost a dozen boats from Kelly’s Brighton Marina in Rockaway Beach.) At 9 a.m. we took five of Kelly’s boats out on nehalem Bay. Within two hours we had caught only a dozen crabs, so we bought a few from Kelly’s tanks. then we hit the farmers market in Manzanita to load up on fresh produce from local farms like R-evolution Gardens and Kingfisher Farms.
Some of the best cooks in Portland are my closest friends, so I had plenty of help with the menu. to start, Steve Jones of Cheese Bar led us down a delicious path of charcuterie and cheeses. Jim Dixon of Real Good Food brought his olive oil and sea salt, and made amazing “Rockaway Fritters” with dandelion greens, nettles and green garlic tops. John Paul of Cameron Vineyards supplied his 2009 Dundee hills pinot noir and 2009 chardonnay, appropriately tasting like sun, sea and a bit of minerally rain. Dave Kreifels and Jason Owens of Laurelhurst Market and Simpatica took on the crab boil. the super secret ingredient is “crab butter” — the fat between the shell and the body. If you’re careful when you
clean the crab you can save the butter to add richness to stock, or just sip from the shell. troy MacLarty of Bollywood theater handled the salads: little gem lettuces and pickled cherries in bacon vinaigrette; and a simple summer harvest of lightly dressed ripe red cherry tomatoes and cucumbers, with fresh mozzarella that Kreifels taught us how to make. My mother-in-law, Jane Olberding, made her famous berry cobblers for dessert. I spend all winter thinking about her cobblers and all summer eating them. no cobbler is complete without ice cream, and we had enough little people, including my very strong 2-year-old, taking a break from paddling canoes and catching salamanders to
keep a constant churn on the old hand-crank ice cream maker. the party was a fabulous community adventure. We started the day chasing down dinner in our crab boats and ended with all the kiddos staying up too late and dancing to ’70s funk. the next morning we woke to nancy and Din from Ristretto Roasters making individual hario pour-overs from their Guatemalan beans, and Jim Dixon back at the stove making a killer scramble of farm eggs, bread, corn and crab-boil-soaked potatoes. needless to say, we ate and drank well. As one guest put it, “the contentment was endemic, we all just bloomed.” august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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dungeness crab Boil With andouille sausage
dungeness crab stock
Makes 12 seRviNgs
Makes aBout 2 galloNs
You’ll need a really big pot to cook up a boil this size (although it’s easy to scale it down), preferably one with a big strainer insert, which will come in handy at the end. Chef Dave kreifels says,“Plan on one quarter crab per person, and up to half a crab per person should the tides and crabbing gods be on your side.”
2 ½ pounds Dungeness crab shells
Vegetable oil
set a large stockpot over medium heat. add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pot, then add the onions. sauté until they begin to turn translucent. add 1⁄3 cup old Bay and the garlic and sauté a couple of minutes more. add the tomato paste and sauté until beginning to caramelize. stir in the stock.
1 large carrot, diced
increase heat to high and bring stock almost to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium. if you have a strainer insert, add it now. Drop in the potatoes and allow to cook for about 7 to 10 minutes. add the corn and sausage. taste the broth for salt and old Bay and add a little of each if needed. (keep in mind the andouille will add spice and saltiness to the broth.) test a potato by poking a skewer through it. When you feel they are about 5 minutes from done, add all the crabs and continue cooking. the idea is that everything will be done at the same time.
Several peppercorns
4 yellow onions; peeled and sliced thick ⁄3 cup old bay seasoning, plus more to taste
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3 heads garlic, cut across the equator (no need to peel) 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 2 gallons crab Stock (see recipe) 5 pounds baby red or yellow potatoes (golf ball size) 6 ears corn, broken in half 3 pounds andouille sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces (Steelman used laurelhurst Market) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 to 6 Dungeness crabs, cooked, cleaned and quartered (see note) crusty bread, sliced 3 lemons, cut into wedges
if you have any reserved “crab butter,” gently heat it. Cover the table with butcher paper, lift out the strainer and pour everything out onto the table. Drizzle the crab butter over everything and eat with crusty bread and lemon wedges. note: if your crabs aren’t cooked, steam or boil them, covered, for 7 to 8 minutes. Rinse under cold water until cool enough to handle. Pull up on the “apron” flap on the underside and break it off. this will leave a hole where you can insert your thumb and pry off the top shell, or carapace. Reserve any of the yellow “crab butter” for the garnish. Remove the spongy gills and snap off the mouth parts. You can eat the bluish heart, and scrape out the rest of the guts. — From Dave Kreifels and Jason Owens, Laurelhurst Market, Portland
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 yellow onion, diced 2 large celery stalks, diced 2 tablespoons tomato paste ½ head garlic, cloves peeled and halved ½ bunch fresh thyme sprigs 3 bay leaves 1 lemon, halved brandy Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Rinse the crab shells and pat dry. arrange shells on rimmed baking sheets and toast for 15-20 minutes. turn them over halfway through. Meanwhile, in a very large stock pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Before it smokes, add the onions, celery and carrots. sauté until they begin to brown. add the tomato paste and stir to coat. Cook until it begins to caramelize a bit. add the garlic, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns and lemon halves. add a splash of brandy and deglaze, scraping up any browned bits off the bottom of the pot. toss in the toasted crab shells and add enough water to just cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer for one hour. strain and cool before refrigerating. — From Dave Kreifels and Jason Owens, Laurelhurst Market, Portland
bRyan’s CRabbing tips People of all ages can go crabbing. even if you don’t catch many keepers, you are always going to at least catch some small crabs you can toss back. it can be as simple as throwing a baited trap off a dock (usually $10), or you can rent a small motorboat and venture into the bay (about $75 for two hours). When to go: Recreational crabbing in bays is open year-round, but crabbing in the ocean is closed from midoctober through November. typically, months ending in “-er” are best because the crabs have more meat. But those are often the coldest and wettest months. i’d rather go in the summer even if we don’t catch as many.
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Besides, you can always buy some from the tanks back at the dock if you get skunked. Regulations: You can legally catch 12 male crabs per person per day (keeping females is illegal). to tell a male from a female, check the underside. if the flap of shell on the abdomen is wide and rounded, it’s female. if it’s narrow and more pointed, it’s male. the minimum size for Dungeness crab is 5¾ inches measured in a straight line across the back. going by boat: We go to kelly’s Brighton Marina (kellyscrabs.com) in Rockaway Beach. kelly and Janice (kelly is always in a silly crab hat) set us up with everything
we need. For $75 you get a shellfish license and two hours of crabbing, including a lesson, gas for the boat, three traps already baited, life jackets, a measuring stick and a bucket. still, be sure to bring a bag with a change of clothes and know that you may get a bit wet. also bring a bag or ice chest with snacks and drinks. When you get back to the dock they’ll cook and clean the crabs for you while you grab a beverage and sit around the campfire recounting your deadliest catch stories. Make sure you ask to try the heart and drink the “crab butter.” You can take the crabs home or eat them there at the picnic tables on the bay.
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tomato, cucumber and fresh mozzarella salad Makes 6 seRviNgs
Dick’s Kitchen is proud to serve Carman Ranch 100% grass-fed beef burgers. They’re lower in cholesterol & calories and higher in vitamins and nutrients.
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3312 SE Belmont St. Portland, OR 503.235.0146
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this riff on the traditional Caprese salad is a serious crowd-pleaser. Be sure to use the best vine-ripened tomatoes you can find. red wine vinaigrette: ⁄3 cup red wine vinegar
1
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 shallot, minced 1 garlic clove, mashed Salt 2
⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper salad: 3 large heirloom tomatoes (about 3 pounds) ½ pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half 1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced ¼ cup basil leaves, roughly torn 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, sliced or torn into chunks Salt and freshly ground black pepper to make the vinaigrette: in a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, shallot, garlic and a large pinch of salt. allow mixture to macerate for 30 minutes. gradually whisk in the olive oil until emulsified. taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. to make the salad: Remove ½ cup of the vinaigrette from the bowl and refrigerate for another use. You should have about 2⁄3 cup left. Cut one of the heirloom tomatoes into large chunks and place in the bowl with the vinaigrette. add the cherry tomatoes and cucumber. season with salt and pepper to taste.
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slice the remaining tomatoes and arrange on a serving plate with the mozzarella. season with salt and pepper. spoon the contents of the bowl over the slices. sprinkle with basil and serve. — Adapted from Troy MacLarty, Bollywood Theater, Portland
raspberry-marionberry cobbler Makes 8 seRviNgs
Bryan steelman waits all year for berry season, when his mother-in-law, Jane olberding, makes her fresh berry cobblers. this unfussy yet lip-smacking version is easy to throw together. the biscuit dough is simply patted into two large rectangles and set on top of the berries — no biscuit cutter required. and there’s no thickener so the berry flavor shines through and the biscuits can really soak up the juices. use any combination of berries you like. 4 cups fresh raspberries 4 cups fresh marionberries 1 cup granulated sugar Biscuit topping 1½ cups plus ¼ cup allpurpose flour (divided) 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into small cubes ¾ cup milk 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, for sprinkling
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine berries in a 9-by13-inch baking dish. sprinkle the sugar evenly over the top. to make the topping: in a medium bowl, combine 1½ cups of the flour, baking powder and salt. add the butter. using a pastry cutter or your fingertips, cut in the butter until a coarse meal forms. add milk and stir just until dough forms. sprinkle half of the remaining flour on a work surface. turn out dough onto surface and gently knead 5 or 6 times, then divide dough in half. using the remaining flour to keep your hands from sticking, pat or roll each piece into a rectangle large enough to almost cover half the pan, so you’ll end up with two slabs of dough covering the berries instead of individual biscuits. Place dough on top of the berries. sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until lightly browned and berries are bubbling. — From Jane Olberding £
onlIne extra: Get the recipes for Jim Dixon’s rockaway Fritters and Troy Maclarty’s little Gem lettuces with Pickled cherries, almonds and bacon Vinaigrette at MixPDx.coM
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shop local ~ shop sellwood august 2012 MIXpdX.coM
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Talking turmeric with Troy MacLarty by andrea slonecker
Once Portland’s golden boy of seasonal, Italian-inspired fare at restaurants such as Lovely Hula Hands, chef Troy MacLarty has set his sights farther east with his new Alberta Street restaurant, Bollywood Theater. Traveling by plane, train and automobile, rickshaw, tuk-tuk and boat, MacLarty toured India, studying the country’s street foods in order to bring that style of cookery to the Portland scene. We sat him down to chat about his trip and find out why his fingers are now always stained a brilliant shade of orangish-yellow. You trained at Chez Panisse, and in Portland you’re known for farm-driven food with an Italian flair. Why Indian?
I ate a lot of Indian food when I was in Berkeley (Calif.) — several times a week. Places like Vik’s Chaat Corner. When I moved here, there really wasn’t anywhere to get the type of street food that I wanted to have. For years I wished someone would open something, and no one ever did. Eventually I just decided to go for it. I get bored very easily with food, so having a whole new range of things to work with is exciting and fun. How did you go about researching the cuisine?
Mostly reading, and a lot of eating. a lot of that eating was in India. What regions did you explore?
I was focused mostly on the south. I was looking for the brighter, livelier side of Indian cuisine. Most of what we have here (in Portland) is the heavier northern cuisine, thicker. The food of the south is more like what I’ve always done in terms of lightness: They use more coconut milk than cream, a lot less butter and more palm oil, a lot of cilantro and that kind of thing.
Was it hard getting around and finding good food?
India’s really regional so there are many different forms of transportation. In a day you might be in a rickshaw and a tuk-tuk and a train and a taxi and a boat. But the train system there is the most used in the world. And the big street food centers are based around train stations and universities, so anyplace you stop on a train or a subway, there’s going to be a lot of street food. And there’s just a lot of street food everywhere — honestly, it’s easy to find. For the most part, we just got off the train and found good food. Actually, even on the trains the food was pretty good. There’s a constant stream of people hawking up and down the aisles; you could eat well all day long on a train if you wanted to — which we did.
Is your menu authentic?
There’s probably a lot of me in the food here; there really isn’t much in the way of seasonality in other Indian restaurants I’ve been to. But for the most part we’re pretty traditional. There’s food from different regions, but each dish sticks to what it’s supposed to be. We’re exploring, we’re figuring this out; our style will probably evolve some as time goes by. I’m not saying it’s authentic. I’m not Indian and I didn’t grow up in that cuisine. Mostly we’re just trying to keep the spirit of it and treat it with honor. Your hands are stained yellow …
Turmeric. Always. Is that permanent? Pretty much. £
ONLiNE EXTRA: Read more of our interview with Troy MacLarty at MiXpdX.cOM 56
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h s e fr & Local Peaches are an ideal summer fruit… ripe and plentiful right now… so sweet and refreshing on these hot summer days. They’re practically perfect as is, fresh from the store. Yet, just a short time on your grill turns them into a fantastic dessert – the barbecue finale your family and friends will find delightful! It’s so easy, too. Just brush all over with a mix of melted butter and brown sugar, then grill on both sides for a few minutes. Serve with ice cream, and you have a simple – yet amazing – dessert! And it all starts with great Northwest peaches… If it’s fresh and local, you’ll find it at Freddy’s!
Find Leigh Ann’s recipe for Grilled Peaches at fredmeyer.com/recipes 12-7-3-72045 (JEE/HRT,SSD/JKE,CNG,TXO)
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