MIX Magazine July 2011

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July J uly / August August ’11 ’11 11 Portlands Portland’s P ortland’s Magazine Magazine of of Food Food + Drink Drink

Dinner party in a cooler Raising the bar on housemade sodas McMinnville’s restaurant row

50

BEST SUMMER DRINKS Plus

CANNED 10 BEERS WORTHY OF YOUR COOLER

3 GREAT PICNIC MENUS BUILT ON

PDX INGREDIENTS

4 SOUTHERN OREGON VIOGNIERS

WORTH THE TRIP

JULY / AUGUST 2011

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editor’s note July and August. Anywhere else these are just two summer months. Here they’re our glorious, grand payoff for sloshing through eightplus months of rain. The weather is idyllic, the farmers markets bursting and restaurant menus truly inspired. Looking back, I think it’s safe to say we definitely earned our summer this year. That’s why we’ve dedicated this issue to all things alfresco, giving you plenty of ideas to get out of the house. First up: a tale of a portable feast and an epic bike trip. While you might not have the quads to re-create Matthew Card’s 100-mile ride to Parkdale, you will definitely want to re-create his dinner party in a cooler. SouthwesternWant to be sure you themed and get every issue of MIX? centered on chunky Subscribe! guac, crispy slaw 10 issues, $20 and marinated Go to mixpdx.com meats for fajitas, or call 503-221-8240. his menu is easy to

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food alone — especially not in this town. So in Scene you’ll see our guide to the 10 best farmers market meals, and on Page 64 you’ll find our picks for the 50 best summer drinks. In a city as dedicated to the liquid arts as Portland, it was ridiculously hard to narrow things down, but the boozy slushies, frothy iced coffees, hoppy beers and stellar urban wines on our list will keep you happily sipping all summer long. So slather on the sunscreen and get the heck out.

make ahead and pack up, so you can take it on your next road trip, whether you’re roughing it at a campground or renting a beach house. Staying closer to home? Check out our three picnic menus built on some of the best PDXmade components, such as Chop’s fantastic pâtĂŠ, Olympic Provisions’ meaty bacon, and lipsmacking peanut sauce from Thai and True. Of course, we don’t live by home-cooked

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

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where to find the reCiPeS in thiS iSSUe: Main DiSheS: • Chipotle-and-LimeMarinated Chicken for Fajitas, p23 • Cumin-and-GarlicRubbed Skirt Steak for Fajitas, p24 • Grilled Chicken Sausages With interesting peppers and Curry Mustard, p34

21 Party in a Cooler 29 Pdx PiCniCs

A bike lover and cook packs up a portable dinner party and sets off for an epic ride with friends.

Top-notch Portlandmade ingredients make it easy to feast on the run, or at the beach.

36 bottoMs uP!

Our guide to the city’s 50 best summer drinks.

in every issue 11 starters Wine-country salumi, cattle country chocolates, Chop’s ultimate sub, burlap-chic bag 17 MixMaster Raising the bar with house-made sodas 45 Walkabout What to eat and do in the ’Couv

48 good Cheese Spanish cheese in our own backyard

On The COveR: On assignment to shoot the Ozark Gold smoothie at Kure Juice Bar, photographer Randy L. Rasmussen struck cover-girl gold when he spotted the lovely eden Dawn, sipping that very drink.

49 PubCraWl Top 10 canned beers to keep on ice 53 seleCts Southern Oregon viogniers worth the road trip 57 eat here McMinnville: Third Street’s restaurants beckon

61 sCene Grain & Gristle; plus 10 farmers market faves

68 high Five The best ice creams outside the usual shops

ThiS paGe: Kure’s The Charmour smoothie decadently garnished with coconut whipped cream and calendula petals.

online extras at mixPdx.Com: • Find out where to get our favorite southern Oregon viogniers

• Re-create Jacob Grier’s Cleared for Departure cocktail with clarified lime juice

• Get a recipe for icy-hot Spicy pineapple paletas

SiDeS: • Cabbage and Carrot Slaw With honeyCumin Dressing, p24 • German Potato Salad, p35 • Guacamole With pepitas, p23 • Pickled Red Onions, p24 SanDWiCheS: • Bahn Mi With Barbecue pork and Country pâté, p30 • LLT Bagels (Lox, Lettuce & Tomato), p32 SaLaDS: • Quinoa, Pickled Beet and Goat Cheese Salad, p32 • Rice Noodle Salad With peanut Dressing, p31 DeSSeRTS: • Craisin Hazelnut Trail Bars, p33 • Orange-Cinnamon Caramel Sauce, p26 • Strawberries With Freddy Guys hazelnutCocoa Butter, p35 DRinKS: • Lemon Grass Green Tea, p31 • Lemon Verbena Soda, p19 • Limonana, p39 • Spicy Ginger Soda, p19

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The Art of Outdoor Living

contributors

with over 90 years of experience in bringing to the Northwest distinctive outdoor furniture

Cookbook author ivy Manning, who wrote our picnic story on Page 29, puts together alfresco meals everywhere she travels, from Bangkok to Santiago, Chile. “I love to wander markets and grocery stores to learn what people eat in other cultures. It beats the heck out of touristy restaurants, and it gives me a chance to mingle with locals on common ground — food.” Her most memorable picnic abroad? Goose prosciutto, purple olives and ripe figs purchased at the medieval market in Padua, Italy, eaten in a vineyard of prosecco grapes with nothing but a Corriere Della Sera newspaper to catch the drips.

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When grant Butler lived in Northeast Portland, he’d always dart over the Columbia River to see movies at the multiplex in downtown Vancouver. But he never found reasons to stay once the closing credits rolled. All that’s changed, now that The Oregonian’s critic-at-large has discovered the great new places that have appeared just north of downtown along Vancouver’s Main Street. He explores them all in this issue’s Walkabout feature on Page 45. Butler also makes delicious discoveries in this month’s Eat Here on Page 57, where he noshes his way through the restaurants and tasting rooms along McMinnville’s bustling Third Street, which has evolved into the epicenter of the wine country’s dining scene.

This month, freelance writer ashley gartland wrote our Mixmaster column on bartenders who occasionally put down the spirits to make house-made sodas (Page 17). She also helped us select our 50 best drinks (page 36), sampling soda floats at an old-school lunch counter, milkshakes at a berry farm and cocktails at Ping. Her favorite of the bunch, though, was the Valhalla at Wildwood. “Gin and aquavit are two of my favorite spirits, and matching them with cucumber and lime makes for a very refreshing drink,” she says. Gartland has previously written for Saveur and Tasting Table and has a new cookbook titled “Dishing Up Oregon” (Storey Publishing) out this October. Read more of her work at ashleygartland.com.

Jeff curtes is a pioneering snowboarding photographer, capturing the images that defined a subculture and documenting the early history of snowboarding as the principal photographer for Burton Snowboards — a position he’s held for the past 19 years and counting. For this issue of MIX he put away his board and hopped on his bike to photograph A Moveable Feast on Page 21. His images have appeared in Transworld Snowboarding, Snowboarder Magazine, Outside, COG and Raygun, among many others. He’s published two books, “Blower: Snowboarding Inside Out” (BoothClibborn Editions, 2002) and “28 Day Winter” (PowerHouse Books, 2007). Curtes chooses Portland and Sydney as his home bases, where he lives with his Australian wife, photographer Jess Mooney, and their two children.

www.fishels.com Other COntributing Writers: Kathleen Bauer, Joshua M. Berstein, lucy BurninghaM, Katherine cole, leslie cole, lynne saMpson curry, christian DeBeneDetti, taMi parr, Deena prichep, Jen stevenson, auDrey van BusKirK, Michael c. ZusMan

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Other COntributing PhOtOgraPhers/illustratOrs: Faith cathcart, MiKe Davis, Brian Feulner, ross WilliaM haMilton, Motoya naKaMura, ranDy l. rassMussen

Summer Concerts T H U R S D AY S

7/21 – Mark J. & Too Much 8/4 – River City Band 8/18 – The Menace Band All shows 5:30pm – 9:00pm

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Suggested donation of 2 cans of food to benefit the Oregon Food Bank

5 03 -69 0-2800 ww w. be t ha ny village.com Directions: From Hwy. 26 go North on Bethany Blvd. about 1.5 miles QFC • Piccolo Mondo Toys • Cindy's Hallmark • Walgreen's • Bank of America • Chase Bank • Bethany's Table • Bliss Cupcake Shop • Chen's Dynasty • Curry Leaf • Divine Yogurt Juan Colorado • Subway • Sweet Lemon Vegetarian Bistro • TOMO Sushi & Teriyaki • Sunset Cycles Starbucks • Bethany Family Dental • Hillside Dental at Bethany • Catrick Cleaners Huntington Learning Center • Sweet Peas Kidzone • Edward Jones • H&R Block • Bethany Athletic Club • All Star Dance Academy • U.S. West Coast Taekwondo • Santosha Yoga for Everybody Allstate • Sherrie Weitzel Interiors Cedar Mill Community Library @ Bethany • Eyes at Bethany Village • OHSU Doernbecher Pediatrics • Therapeutic Associates • Blockbuster Video Bethany Family Pet Clinic • Great Clips • Oasis Tanning • Nailzbizarre • Tres Bon Salon • Laurel Parc, A Senior Community • The UPS Store • Biscuits Café

VOLUME 5 / ISSUE 6

mixpdx.com DANIELLE CENTONI / EDITOR

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Sugarcookie Pilar French Redwood Son Matthew Lindley Commission Chris Margolin & The Dregs Justin Klump The Poor Sports Matt Brown Fernando Ty Curtis Band Tyler Stenson St.James Gate Evan Chruchill Band

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starters Page 12: Chocolates for cowboys, cool cookbook Page 14: sublime sub, burlap bag, sweet salami

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obsessive

Savory swine and sweet vinegar

When we last caught up with chefs Eric Ferguson and Carmen Peirano, they were engaged and taking over Carmen’s dad’s kitchen at Nick’s Italian Cafe in McMinnville, working 14-hour days at the wine country’s bastion of classic Italian cuisine. Now they’re married, and just as busy. Carmen, 36, gave birth to the couple’s first child, Giorgia, last November, and Eric, 32, gave birth to the couple’s first salumeria, Fino in Fondo, which opened in June. Located two blocks south of Nick’s, Fino in Fondo processes six pigs each week; look for its salumi in Portland stores and restaurants in August, or stop in the store for salumi and sandwiches beginning Thanksgiving weekend. We caught up with Ferguson as he sprinted between the restaurant and the salumeria for a quick chat about his passions for Italian butchery and traditional balsamico, another pet project. But don’t hold your breath about that balsamico: He’s been working on his first batch, using local pinot gris grapes, for the past four years, and doesn’t plan to bottle it for another four. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE DAVIS

Tell us about your stint working at an Umbrian salumeria. I’d get on the bus at 4 in the morning three days a week and work 12-hour days. I got my fair share of hazing. But I got to taste the seasoning mixtures, check out the fermentation method, see the traditional salting techniques, learn all the things these people had been doing for generations. I learned how to utilize 100 percent of a pig. That’s easy enough to do in a restaurant where you can use a lot of it for cooking, but seeing every bit cured except the bones was the best. Wait a second. Rewind. Fermentation? Salami is actually a fermented meat product. You have to ferment the meat through a combination of

heat and humidity to drop the pH or increase the acidity so that harmful bacteria won’t grow. In what way does Italian butchering differ from american butchering? The Italians have different cuts than Americans do. I learned to make sure I was cutting in the right spots so I could save certain muscles for curing and certain muscles for cooking. Like in the loin, one of the prize pieces is the capicola or the coppa. Here, that would just be part of the “pork butt.” There, they extend the cut about three inches down the loin so you get to save that whole muscle.

startersCont.

to do

July/August July 1-4

Blues with a purpose Big names are always on the bill at the Safeway Waterfront Blues Festival, Portland’s biggest summertime party, which this year features Buddy Guy, Maceo Parker, Lucinda Williams and Robert Cray. The reason for the music, though, is serious stuff: The festival is the year’s biggest fundraiser for the Oregon Food Bank, and hungry people throughout Oregon and southwest Washington are counting on your support. waterfrontbluesfest.org July 4

Oh say can you see? America turns 235 on Independence Day this year, and there are so many ways to celebrate: setting off fireworks, cooking burgers on the backyard grill and hitting the road for an Oregon road trip. On the Oregon coast, there are great small-town celebrations worth taking in at Depoe Bay, Newport, Tillamook, Lincoln City and Seaside. If you’re heading east, Baker City’s Oregon Trail Fourth of July shows how pioneers may have celebrated when the country was just a sprightly 100 years old.

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So, we hear you’re making balsamico condimento. What exactly is that? It is true balsamic vinegar that just has not aged long enough to be considered tradizionale. We are following the rules of the Consorzio Aceto Balsamico in Modena. We transfer the vinegar annually between barrels of five different sizes, and we will have a tasting panel subjecting it to a flavor test. Our first batch will be aged seven years; anything that is not aged 12 years is considered condimento. But we will keep going and release a tradizionale. In what way is the balsamic-making process different from other types of vinegar production? You don’t cook any other vinegar, so there’s the cooking process, which contributes to the brown color. Also, the

barrel influence and slow oxidation. Each year as these factors compound, the color gets darker and darker. Another difference is the amount of time that goes into it. Carmen and I are really making balsamic for our grandchildren, not for us. We are doing something that will hopefully be great when we are gone. How would you serve your balsamico? I would get the best Parmigiano-Reggiano you can find, break it into chunks (never cut it), and drizzle the balsamico on top. And serve that with a plate of Fino in Fondo Toscano salami and a giant glass of Oregon pinot noir. And then I would go to sleep. — KATHERINE COLE 777 N.E. Fourth St.; 503-434-4471; finoinfondo.com

eat here now arrowhead ChoColates Cafe Your next road trip to eastern Oregon just got a lot tastier. Arrowhead Chocolates, a new urban oasis smack dab in the middle of cattle country, gives residents and visitors to Joseph a place to kick back with Stumptown coffee, a baked treat from nearby Wildflour Bakery, and a selection of handmade chocolates, including hot chili truffles, often made right before your eyes. Place your order, then settle into a seat by the window and take in the views of the wilderness. Thirtyyear-old graphic designer Erica Reininger left Portland in 2009 to grow organic produce on her parents’ guest ranch (arrowheadranchcabins. com) before persuading her dad, Bruce, and mom, Wendy, who both owned a chocolate shop in Bend years ago, to dust off their skills as chocolatiers. Arrowhead’s salted caramels and cacao nib bars — among dozens of small-batch chocolates sold by the piece and pound — drew a following months before the family-run shop opened last December. Now this hub hums with the chocolate enrobing machine and throngs of local artists, ranchers and entrepreneurs starving for the good stuff. — LYNNE SAMPSON CuRRY

July 9

Party on the Avenue Less than two decades ago, North Mississippi Avenue was a street struggling with crime and urban decay. Now it’s home to one of Portland’s most eclectic food scenes, with great pizza, ice cream, coffee shops, a gourmet market and carts dishing up everything from waffles to vegan bento bowls. Celebrate these riches at the annual Mississippi avenue Street Fair, an all-day block party featuring live music and plenty to eat. mississippiave.com

more to do

100 N. Main St., Joseph. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; 541-432-2871; arrowheadchocolates.com

read this / “Paletas” There are Popsicles, and then there are paletas. While American ice pops tend to be unnervingly garish in color and syrupy sweet, the Mexican version is all about the fruit — or vegetable as the case may be. Cookbook author and Mexico native Fany Gerson has followed up her acclaimed first book, “My Sweet Mexico,” with “Paletas” (Ten Speed Press, $16.99, 118 pages), a small but power-packed collection of icy Mexican treats just in time for summer. Recipes range from crowd-pleasing classics, such as strawberry or fresh coconut, to more challenging combos such as avocado, spicy pineapple, mezcal-orange or spiced tomato-tequila. If you don’t have a Popsicle mold, no problem. There’s a chapter on raspados, or Mexican shaved ice, plus refreshing aguas frescas. — DANIELLE CENTONI

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July 16

Hop to it! To make great beer, you need great hops, the climbing plant that’s used by brewers to give their creations a bitter, complex flavor and aroma. In Oregon, the small town of Hubbard is at the heart of the growing region, and the one-day Hubbard Hops Festival features a parade, games, live music and — natch! — a beer garden. cityofhubbard.org/city_of_hubbard_hop_ festival.html

take it on the run, baby Where there are coffee beans, there are burlap sacks to hold them. And burlap just happens to be strong, rugged and surprisingly chic when upcycled into a tote bag like this one. Made by Portland designer Akiko Oguchi for her label 5th Season, the ample tote bags are lined with bright cotton prints and fastened with a wooden button. They’re just the right blend of rustic elegance and eco-cool — and, of course, the perfect way to display your java love while shopping at the farmers market or lounging at the beach. Look for the “Leah” tote bag ($55) at the 5th Season Etsy store: etsy.com/shop/5thseason — DANIELLE CENTONI

eat this / italian sandwiCh at ChoP CharCuterie July 21

A Supreme achievement Fifty years ago today, the Motown girlgroup the Supremes scored their first hit single with “Buttered Popcorn.” To celebrate this moment in pop-culture history, rent a copy of the Supremesinspired drama “Dreamgirls,” and enjoy it with a bowl of spiced popcorn. Check 14 14 out the appetizer recipe section of mixpdx.com for five popcorn recipes, including Thai and Italian. July 21

The east side now has one more meat-tastic reason to go out for lunch. Chop, the butcher shop/charcuterie in Northwest Portland’s City Market, has opened a second location in the HuB building, nestled behind Tasty n Sons on North Williams Avenue. Although the cold case brims with the shop’s signature house-made pâtés and salamis, plus those of top-notch producers like Fra’Mani and Creminelli, you really must forgo (or at least postpone) the impulse to do the whole baguette-meat-cheese thing and get an actual sandwich. The Italian is everything you want a sub to be, and then some. It’s piled high with thinly sliced meats — salami, ham, coppa and mortadella — plus provolone, roasted red peppers and crunchy greens, then seasoned liberally with olive oil, salt and pepper. The best part — at least for those of us without a hungry man appetite (or a hungry man by our side) — is you don’t have to go whole hog. Half sandwiches are available for $4.50. — DANIELLE CENTONI 3808 N. Williams Ave., Suite E; 503-288-1901; chopbutchery.com PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

Rooftop cinema There are no drive-ins left in the Portland metro area — the closest one is out in Newberg — but you can still watch movies under the stars thanks to the Northwest Film Center’s Top Down series. Every Thursday through Aug. 25, they’ll screen perfect summertime fare like “Viva Las Vegas,” “Goldfinger” and Jackie Chan’s kicking “Police Story” on the top level of the Hotel deLuxe parking garage. To eat, Gracie’s Restaurant will have easyto-juggle meals, snacks and cocktails. nwfilm.org July 22-23

Berry bounty Want to sample pies, cakes and ice creams made with the best Oregongrown berries? Head to the two-day Oregon Berry Festival at Portland’s EcoTrust Building, where vendors will have berry dishes and products, and six chefs will compete in the first-ever Oregon Berry Cook-Off. oregonberryfestival.com

more to do

Can’t get enough of Olympic Provisions’ Dark Chocolate Salami The Italians truly have thought of everything. As in chocolate salami, a cylinder-shaped treat that mimics the look of charcuterie, but is anything but. Now Olympic Provisions makes the classic dessert, melding bittersweet chocolate and cookie crumbs, rugged bits of pistachios and hazelnuts and bright flavors of orange peel and anise. The slice-and-swoon dessert is shaped into cylinders and dusted with powdered sugar (no curing required). You can find it on OP’s dessert menu, where it’s served with pastry chef Amelia Lane’s meltingly tender salt and pepper shortbread and a dollop of luscious orange marmalade. Or pick up the “salami” and shortbread to go, wrapped in brown paper, for your next picnic. — LESLIE COLE

$6 at Olympic Provisions; olympicprovisions.com

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For no discernible reason, today is designated National Tequila Day. We’ll take it as an excuse to savor a shot of pricey AviĂłn AĂąejo, then recreate Pee-wee Herman’s table-top “Tequilaâ€? dance, complete with the big shoes. July 28-31

A glass act You start to hear the rolling cheers of the Oregon Brewers Festival blocks before you reach Tom McCall Waterfront Park. The reason for all this happiness is the 24th edition of the midsummer celebration of craft beers, featuring artisan suds from around the nation. It gets crowded, and many beers run out, so think about going early or on Thursday. oregonbrewfest.com July 31

IPNC in a nutshell Tickets to the full three-day International Pinot Noir Celebration in McMinnville have been sold out for ages. But you can still purchase $150 tickets to the Sunday afternoon Passport to Pinot, which features 35-40 wines from the full festival, as well as food from top Oregon chefs, all in the bucolic outdoor setting of Linfield College. ipnc.org

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The Special Olympics fundraiser The Bite of Oregon features food vendors and wineries from around the state, plus an appearance by Food Network personality Bob Blumer, the host of the shows “Glutton for Punishmentâ€? and “Surreal Gourmet.â€? No word yet on what he’ll be cooking, but expect it to be ‌ different. biteoforegon.com aug. 13-14

Ultimate burger battle It’s an intense barbecue throwdown at the Cascade Country Cook-Off in Chehalis, Wash., where professional Grand Champion Pitmasters and amateur ’cuers will battle to see who can impress the judges and crowds alike with the best grilled burgers. cascadecookoff.com

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aug. 25-27

Do as the Romans do Tarantellas and tambourines turn Pioneer Courthouse Square into a pasta-fueled party with the 20th annual Festa Italiana. Expect grape-stomping demonstrations, folk dancing and free-flowing Italian wines. festaitalianaportland.shutterfly.com ÂŁ

mixmaster

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drew putterman, bartender at Grüner, makes syrups for his cocktails on a regular basis. “taking it to the next level by making a syrup for a soda was an easy transition,” he says. “sodas are a great way for me to think of new non-alcoholic drinks for the bar as well as new syrups i can use in cocktails.” his light and refreshing lemon verbena soda is a prime example.

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[ Sodas for the Sophisticated Set ] fountain sodas and cans of Coca-Cola serve a purpose on summer road trips when gas station mini-marts, fast food restaurants and coolers in the back seat are the only options for quenching our thirst. But when we’re dining at a restaurant with a reputable bar, we’ve come to expect more from the beverage list than a selection of cloying mainstream pops. that’s because more and more local bartenders are replacing syrupy soft drinks with refined housemade recipes that echo their restaurant’s artisanal ethos and put produce into play during its peak season. “it’s just such a great alternative to saying, ‘We have diet Coke or Mr. pibb,’ ” says david Welch, co-owner and bar manager at lincoln restaurant and sunshine tavern. “We’re not relying on high-fructose corn syrup or something that is manufactured when we are making the sodas ourselves. they are small batch and really fresh and the flavors are changing constantly. When you tell someone we make a pear-ginger soda, it’s a really nice thing.”

By Ashley GArtlAnd / photoGrAphy By BriAn feulner

mixmaster cont.

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Making housemade sodas tied to the seasons is just one more way bartenders get to exercise their creative muscles, as they combine different fruits and herbs to come up with beguiling flavors. “i think my favorite part about making sodas for the bar is working with new and interesting flavors, things that you might not typically see in a soda from the average store,” says Grüner’s drew putterman (right), who has a penchant for herbal or spiced sodas like spicy Ginger and Alpine spice. “Most recently i finished a recipe for a lemon verbena soda that is really light and refreshing, perfect for the summer patio. it’s reminiscent of a tea while having the nice refreshing carbonation of the soda.” often these nonalcoholic combinations are a natural extension — or even a byproduct — of the cocktail menu itself. “With our seasonal cocktails, we were making ingredients, like syrups, that didn’t contain alcohol, and we discovered that we could use them in sodas,” says James West, bar manager at Marché in eugene. West has made sodas in dozens of flavors, from rhubarb-vanilla to blackberry-honey, inspired in part by what’s going on in the restaurant’s kitchen. “With the sodas, we can enjoy the seasonality of ingredients and have the restaurant philosophy come through in another way,” he says. to make standout sodas, bartenders must transform flavoring agents such as fruits and vegetables into a mixable, drinkable form, sweeten them and then cut them with soda water — though not necessarily in that order. Bartenders build their sodas using different methods; some blend soda water with fruit syrups, while others add a sweetener such as sugar or honey to a fresh fruit purée right in the glass, then dilute the mixture with soda water. the goal of each process, however, is always the same. “it’s all about homing in on a balance of sugar and the (flavor of the) ingredient we are using in the drink,” says West.

typically, bartenders capture the flavor of a fruit, vegetable or herb by juicing it, puréeing it or infusing it in a syrup. it just depends on the nature of the ingredient. douglas derrick, bar manager at nostrana, uses a juicer when working with pomegranates to make the grenadine for nostrana’s crimson “don’t Call Me shirley” temple. for tough or stringy ingredients, it’s the easiest way to extract the flavor you want without having to deal with unwanted solids. But when he is working with soft seasonal fruits, such as berries or black currants, he favors purées, which he makes by whizzing the fruit in a blender or food processor, then straining to remove seeds and pulp. derrick says it’s the best way to get the pure flavor of the fruit into his sodas, and the purées allow him more control over the sweetness of the finished product. each drink can be sweetened to taste. “i don’t want to have a liter of (pre-sweetened) syrup and just add it to soda water,” he says. “i want to have a fresh purée.” But syrups have their virtues, too — particularly when you’re working with herbs and aromatics. At lincoln, chef-owner Jenn louis steeps ingredients such as citrus zest, fresh berries or herbs in simple syrup to create the base for sodas like blueberry-bay leaf and strawberry-mint. “i make a

simple syrup using one part water to one part sugar,” she says. “from there, you can pretty much add anything you want into it. you do want to make sure it is a strong syrup so its flavor comes out when you dilute it with the soda water, but you also don’t want it overpowering.” the process can involve some trial and error to get the timing right: let the herbs steep too long and the flavor can turn bitter. too little and, well, what’s the point? “i think, as with most things, that you need to go into soda making with a creative mindset,” says putterman. “if you mess up the first time, you’re only bound to learn something and get better at it.” syrups have a few other things going for them, too: they have a longer shelf life and make it easier to mix up several servings at once. “it’s so simple to build both your sweetness and flavor in one ingredient and then add soda water to that,” says Welch. this summer, as you troll the farmers market for fresh produce for dinner, think like a bartender and pick up a little extra to make a refreshing batch of soda. they’re ridiculously easy, and you can make them according to whatever flavor and sweetness level you prefer. All you need are the right tools (see sidebar) and a willingness to explore the possibilities.

the sodA stArter Kit professional barkeeps might have fancy soda siphons at their disposal but home bartenders can easily adopt their methods by assembling the right tools. here are a few essentials. Soda machine soda makers have suddenly become available — and affordable — for home bartenders, says douglas derrick of nostrana. sodastream’s Genesis model retails for about $100. don’t want to invest in a soda machine? lincoln’s david Welch recommends simply buying lurisia sparkling water instead. Strainer Whether you’re making a purée or a syrup, a fine-mesh strainer allows you to extract the flavor from ingredients and remove their gritty, pulpy solids and seeds. Blender if you want to make fruit purées to flavor your sodas, a blender is essential. “We’re fortunate to have a Vitamix, which is perhaps the world’s strongest blender,” says derrick. “But a regular blender will work as well.” Juicer though a juicer is an optional tool, it does provide more flavor possibilities by allowing you to work with fibrous ingredients such as pomegranates or lemon grass.

reCipes

lemon Verbena soda Makes 24 servings lemon verbena isn’t readily available at supermarkets, but it’s incredibly easy to grow (look for starts at your local nursery) and adds a bright, almost lemon grass flavor to salads and infusions like this soda. 4 cups water ½ ounce fresh lemon verbena leaves, plus 10 more leaves for steeping 4 cups granulated sugar soda water lemon twist, for garnish in a medium saucepan, combine the water and ½ ounce of the lemon verbena leaves. Bring to a simmer over high heat. remove from heat, cover and let stand for 30 to 45 minutes. strain out lemon verbena and return infused water to the saucepan. set over high heat and simmer until reduced to 3 cups. stir in the sugar until dissolved, remove from heat and pour into a glass jar. Add the remaining 10 lemon verbena leaves and let sit at room temperature until cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight before using.

To serve: fill a tall glass with ice. Add 1 ounce syrup, top with soda water and stir. taste and add more syrup or soda if desired. Garnish with a twist of lemon. — Drew Putterman, Grßner restaurant

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spicy Ginger soda Makes 12 servings fresh ginger and crushed red pepper flakes give this soda a spicy kick.

4 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes Ÿ teaspoon kosher salt 2 (3-inch) pieces fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 12 lime wedges 6 cups soda water (divided) Combine sugar, water, red pepper flakes, salt and ginger in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. remove pan from heat, cover and steep for 30 minutes. strain ginger syrup into a jar and chill. To serve: fill a 12-ounce glass with ice cubes. Add 2 tablespoons ginger syrup, squeeze a lime wedge into glass, and top with soda water. stir to combine. — Drew Putterman, Grßner restaurant £

2 cups water

1 cup granulated sugar

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a moveable feast Pack uP the dinner Party and hit the road

By MATTHEW CARD Photography by JEFF CURTES

at most of us spend least a few

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fueled with bagels and pots of Heart coffee (owner Wille Yli-luoma, previous page, was part of our group) we rolled out along the springwater Corridor before cutting eastward across boring and through bull Run to begin our steady creep upward toward marmot and mount Hood. the weather proved perfect and the hard riding was lightened by the stunning scenery — it’s hard for me to believe we live so close to such alpine-like vistas.

of our summer weekends day-tripping it away from home and the comforts of our kitchens. on any given saturday, we can be found roughing it in a tent near a lake, or taking in the ocean views from cushy digs on the coast. as for me, more often than not my adventures involve bikes. and big hills. and lots of good food. Case in point: I conned a handful of intrepid (and gullible) friends to bike 100-plus miles with me from town up the “Devil’s backbone” to “little switzerland” and finally, over lolo Pass and down through the backwoods of mount Hood to Parkdale. It was an ambitious trip, but I promised a great payoff: a dinner party at the gorgeous Kelly-Woodford House in Parkdale. built by Neil Kelly as a test project for a host of eco-friendly practices (and managed by Hood River vacation Rentals), the Kelly-Woodford house has broad, open spaces, a gorgeous kitchen, and well-framed views of mount Hood. It’s perfect for a dinner party and for lodging a host of exhausted riders. but I wasn’t about to cook a dinner — from scratch — for 10 people after eight hours on my bike. so I came up with a plan for a portable dinner party that could be prepped in advance, travel well and be finished in short order after a long day at play. sticking to a southwest theme, I decided on fajitas with cumin- and garlic-rubbed flank steak and chipotle-marinated chicken hot off the grill; pickled red onions; guacamole with pepitas; honey- and cumin-spiced cabbage and carrot slaw; grilled summer squash, peppers and corn; and ice cream with cinnamon-orange caramel sauce. and, of course, plenty of hoppy beer to ease aching legs and sore backs. as I planned the menu, I chose dishes that would allow me to do most of the work the night before. I trimmed and prepared the meats, pickled the onions, sliced and diced what I could, whipped up the caramel sauce, and carefully labeled and organized everything. before our group rolled out, I packed the provisions into a cooler, which was shuttled out, along with beer, snacks and everybody’s gear, to the cabin by my wife and kids. even after a long day on the bike, I was able to put dinner on the table within 30 minutes of dismounting (with a little help from my friends). being able to end our hard-earned trip to Parkdale with a real dinner party, not just a pile of mediocre takeout, was one of the most rewarding things about the experience. and it was perfectly do-able since I had done the work in advance. even if you haven’t the least desire to re-create our ride, you can definitely re-create the menu next time you hit the road with friends.

recipes: CHIPotle-aND-lIme-maRINateD CHICKeN foR fajItas Serves 4 to 6

GuaCamole WItH PePItas Serves 4 to 6

the chicken is best marinated anywhere from 8 to 24 hours; beyond that, the chicken’s texture will suffer. for the best flavor, grill the chicken over hardwood charcoal, not briquettes. the recipe doubles easily. serve the chicken with warmed tortillas (the fresher and more locally produced, the better), grilled peppers, pickled onions, sour cream and guacamole.

serrano chiles vary greatly in heat level (and size), so taste and add according to your palate. for a brighter, fruitier and hotter flavor, try substituting a habanero chile. the majority of a chile’s heat is located in the seeds and ribs, so remove them if you’re particularly heat sensitive. avocados vary greatly in flavor and you may need to add more or less lime juice. feel free to double the recipe — it goes quickly.

4 cloves garlic

1 small-medium shallot, minced

2 to 4 canned chipotle chiles (depending on your heat tolerance)

1 serrano chile, minced

3 tablespoons packed brown sugar

4 teaspoons fresh lime juice, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Kosher salt

2 teaspoons chile powder (New mexico or a blend)

2 medium or 3 small ripe avocados, cut into ½-inch dice

Zest and juice of 1 lime

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup vegetable oil

¼ cup pepitas (raw, hulled pumpkin seeds), lightly toasted (see note)

2 to 2½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat In a blender, combine garlic, chiles, sugar, salt, chile powder, lime zest and juice, and oil. Purée until smooth. transfer to a large zip-top bag, add chicken, seal bag, and massage bag to coat chicken evenly in marinade. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours. Grill chicken over a medium-hot fire until well browned and cooked through, about 12 minutes, flipping every 2 to 4 minutes to prevent scorching. allow chicken to rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing thin and serving with tortillas, grilled peppers, pickled onions, guacamole and sour cream. — Matthew Card

Combine shallot, chile, lime juice and a large pinch of salt in mixing bowl. allow to sit for 10 minutes, then mash in avocados and cilantro until roughly combined (leave chunky). adjust seasoning to taste with salt and additional lime juice; fold in pepitas and serve immediately. note: to toast pepitas, place in a dry skillet set over mediumhigh heat. toast, stirring frequently, until seeds become fragrant and lightly golden. — Matthew Card

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CumIN-aND-GaRlICRubbeD sKIRt steaK foR fajItas

CabbaGe aND CaRRot slaW WItH HoNeY-CumIN DRessING

Serves 4 to 6 (in fajitas)

the dressing can be prepared up to a day ahead and tossed with the vegetables before serving. the vegetables may be prepared ahead, too, though I recommend blotting the grated carrots and radishes dry on paper towels to wick away moisture. a food processor’s grating disk is a better choice than a box grater because it extracts less moisture from the vegetables.

use a spice mill or mortar-and-pestle to coarsely grind whole cumin seed. for a stronger flavor, toast the seeds lightly in a hot, dry skillet. If you can’t find skirt steak, flank steak may be substituted. skirt steak (and flank steak) are best cooked rare to medium rare (they toughen if cooked much longer). the meat will continue to cook a little once removed from the grill, so don’t overcook it. serve in fajitas accompanied by guacamole, pickled onions, grilled peppers, sour cream, and salsa. 6 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons coarse-ground black pepper 2 teaspoons coarse-ground cumin seed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1½ to 2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed of excess fat 1. In small bowl, combine garlic, salt, pepper, cumin and olive oil. thoroughly coat meat with the mixture, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 8 to 48 hours. 2. Grill over hot fire until well browned and charred, 3 to 4 minutes. flip and cook second side until meat is just rare, about 2 minutes more. transfer to platter and allow to rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing as thinly possible against the grain. 24 — Matthew Card

Serves 4 to 6

dressing: 6 tablespoons mayonnaise

PICKleD ReD oNIoNs Makes about 2 cups these are quick to make, and can perk up anything.

¼ cup fresh lime juice Zest of 1 lime 4 teaspoons mild honey 2 teaspoons granulated sugar

¾ cup white vinegar

¾ teaspoon whole cumin seeds

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 clove garlic

½ teaspoon salt

½ serrano chile

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (or 1 fresh serrano or bird’s eye chile, sliced thin)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 bay leaves 3 cloves garlic, sliced very thin 3 whole cloves 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced thin

In small saucepan combine vinegar, sugar, salt, red pepper flakes, bay leaves, garlic and cloves; bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. add onion, return to boil, and cook for 1 minute. transfer to bowl and refrigerate until cooled. — Matthew Card

Slaw: 1 bunch radishes, grated 2 medium-large carrots, peeled and grated 1 small green cabbage, quartered, cored and shredded fine ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro For the dressing: In a food processor, combine mayonnaise, lime juice, lime zest, honey, sugar, cumin seeds, garlic and chile. Process until smooth. season to taste with salt and pepper. For the salad: Combine radishes, carrots, cabbage and cilantro in large mixing bowl. using forks or tongs, toss with dressing until evenly coated; serve. — Matthew Card

How to pull it off

keep it simple: the last thing you want to do after a day spent on the road or out hiking in the woods is heavy-duty cooking. You’ll be tired and ready to put your feet up, not stand around. Choose simple, familiar recipes that you can prepare largely in advance. and choose recipes with enough popular appeal to make everyone happy — there will likely be no takeout around. to save time on shopping and prep work, consider recipes with overlapping ingredients. Prep: Do as much as you can ahead of time, no matter how small the job. marinate meats, make sauces, grate cheese, and slice, dice and chop everything that can stand up to the advance prep. Herbs and greens can be washed, spun dry and wrapped in paper towels. store everything in clearly marked containers and zip-top bags (pack tightly so everything will fit snugly into a cooler to avoid damage during transportation. and check twice before you leave for the trip: Chances are something will get buried in the back of the refrigerator. try making a list so you can check things off as you pack them up.

Be prepared: While the cabin we stayed at was better stocked than my home kitchen, that’s rarely the case. I recommend packing your own sharp chef’s knife, a paring knife, a pair of sturdy tongs and a couple of kitchen towels — the minimal equipment needed to cook just about anything. I also pack a small bottle of extra-virgin olive oil

and a small zip-top bag filled with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper for on- 25 site seasoning. and bring plenty of simple snacks for “happy hour” — it may take longer to prepare dinner than you hoped and you don’t want a peckish crowd breathing down your neck. delegate: No matter how controlling you may be in the kitchen, now is not the time. Press your guests into serving as prep cooks (a drink in hand is a great facilitator). anyone, regardless of his or her cooking experience, can chop cabbage, juice limes, shuck corn. If there are any happy grill-mores in the crowd, assign one to tend the flames. Be flexible: even the best-laid plans can go awry. You might forget something or a dish could turn out wrong. Don’t sweat it — improvise or substitute; the food won’t make or break the weekend. Know where the closest market or convenience store is to grab any missing essentials. above: When I plotted the course, it looked like a perfectly acceptable 80 miles with some moderate climbing; on the road, however, it turned into 100-plus miles with several thousand feet of climbing.

oRaNGe-CINNamoN CaRamel sauCe Makes about 3 cups 26

While the recipe makes a good deal of sauce, it stores well for up to three weeks in an airtight container in the refrigerator and can be frozen for longer storage. try using leftovers to flavor bread or rice pudding, or stir it into coffee. When whisking the warm cream into the hot sugar, the mixture will bubble up and steam like crazy, so be careful. 2 cups heavy cream 2 large cinnamon sticks Zest of 1 orange 2 cups granulated sugar 2 tablespoons corn syrup Âź cup water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces 2 tablespoons triple sec or Grand marnier salt

Heat cream, cinnamon sticks and orange zest in small saucepan over medium heat until just beginning to simmer; remove from heat and set aside. meanwhile, add sugar, corn syrup and water to a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Gently whisk together until sugar is dissolved. Cook until mixture just begins to turn pale gold, 9 to 12 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking, whisking occasionally, until caramel turns rich orange-brown (the color of a new penny), 3 to 7 minutes longer. Remove from heat and, very carefully, strain the infused cream thorough a finemeshed strainer into the caramel, whisking until completely incorporated. Whisk in butter, triple sec and a large pinch salt; transfer to a bowl and allow to cool at room temperature. transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until needed. — Matthew Card £

North Mississippi Avenue 1

Humboldt St

Vancouver Ave

Failing St

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Shaver St

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Williams Ave

Skidmore St

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Sunlan Lighting and The Lightbulb Lady

Come to Sunlan Playroom and get lit. Experience light bulbs that create sunlight to help you feel better. Find fun bulbs, colored bulbs, fancy shaped bulbs, bulbs that Edison might have made, and all the other bulbs you need to keep your home and ofďŹ ce bright.

Trebol

Hours: 8-5:30 M-F • 10-5 Sat.

4835 N. Albina Avenue Portland, OR 503.517.9347 www.trebolpdx.com

3901 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.281.0453 www.sunlanlighting.com 2

Mr. Green Beans Mr. Green Beans is Portland’s headquarters for Do-It-Yourself Domestic arts. We carry everything for roasting your own coffee, making your own cheese and soap, canning and preserving, cultures and starters and much more. We also have a full line of classes to get you started.

3932 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.288.8698 www.mrgreenbeanspdx.com

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Lorenzo’s Ristorante Italiano Lorenzo’s offers a variety of standard and family inspired food. Dine in this classic, yet casual environment and allow our staff to guide you through some of Portland’s best Italian food. Lorenzo’s uses local hormone free meats, imported and domestic cheeses and cured meats. 3807 N. Mississippi Avenue Portland, OR 503.284.6200 www.lorenzospdx.com

Mississippi Marketplace To advertise in Marketplace contact Josh Frickle at 503.294.4127 or jfrickle@oregonian.com

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picnics, pdx style From peanut sauce to pâté, Portland-made artisan products make it easy to pack a proper spread

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MENU 1:

picnic in the park

MENU 2:

high energy hiking

Just a generation ago, picnics were a romantic outing, one you built a whole day around. They involved special baskets specifically made for that one purpose, outfitted with a tablecloth, napkins, silverware and plates, and packed with a bounty of from-scratch dishes home cooks would plan well in advance. Fast-forward to the present day, and the beautiful summer tradition of picnicking is going by the wayside. We grab makeshift meals from grocery store delis — sad, soggy sandwiches wrapped in cellophane, plastic-entombed hummus-and-vegetable trays, lifeless cookies hermetically sealed in even more plastic, all eaten over the plastic bag it was toted in. Not a speck of romance in that. The dash-and-dine picnic model is convenient, of course, but what it saves us in time it robs us in taste, ritual and the fun of preparing a great meal. With summer in full swing,

MENU 3:

barbecue on the beach

and plenty of beachcombing, Frisbee-throwing and hiking on the agenda, we need easy recipes and ideas for great portable meals that can save us from picnic purgatory. Lucky for us, we live in Portland, where a wide array of locally made crave-worthy comestibles are as close as the nearest farmers market or grocery store. From vibrant pickles and luxurious pâtés to silky smoked salmon and deeply spiced mustards, there’s a ton of great stuff out there we can use as flavor-packed shortcuts to fabulous picnic feasts. We gathered some of our favorites and built three themed, packable menus around them. With these Portland-made components on hand, putting together a truly delicious picnic is no problem. So whether you’re shaking out a blanket on Rocky Butte, barbecuing at the beach or taking a breather on your way up to Multnomah Falls, you’ll have a fabulous lunch in the bag — or the basket.

By Ivy Manning / Photography by Mike Davis

MENU 1:

picnic in the parkx

Báhn Mì With Barbecue Pork and Country Pâté Báhn mì are traditionally built on airy baguettes made with a blend of wheat and rice flours. The light rolls are easy to chew (as in no knife required, no roof of the mouth scraping) and they’re a great cradle for meats, shredded daikon-carrot salad (which you can buy pre-made at Fubonn market), and herbs. To dress the báhn mì, we love the eggie goodness of Kewpie mayonnaise, a Japanese import that comes in squishy, totable bottles. For the Pâté, you can’t go wrong with Chop Butchery and Charcuterie’s sturdy pistachio-flecked Farmhouse Pâté — it really makes the sandwich. 11⁄3 cups grated daikon-carrot salad ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon granulated sugar 1 tablespoon rice vinegar ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves 4 small Vietnamese baguette rolls 8 ounces Chop Butchery and Charcuterie Farmhouse Pâté 5 ounces thinly sliced Chinese barbecue pork (char siu) Maggi seasoning 30

1 small bottle Kewpie mayonnaise At least 1 hour before serving, toss the daikon-carrot salad, salt, sugar and rice vinegar in a small airtight container. Top with the cilantro and keep refrigerated. With a serrated knife, split the baguettes lengthwise, leaving a hinge on one side. Cut the pâté into small rectangles and lay them on the open buns. Lay the slices of barbecue pork on top and sprinkle the meat with a little Maggi seasoning. Close up the sandwiches and wrap them with plastic. If you will be toting the sandwiches for longer than 4 hours without refrigeration, keep them cool by packing them on ice or ice packs in a cooler. When you are ready to eat, unwrap the sandwiches and squeeze about 1 tablespoon of the mayonnaise on the inside of each baguette. Drain off the excess moisture from the daikon-carrot and cilantro leaf mixture. Divide salad and cilantro among the sandwiches and serve. — Ivy Manning

Rice Noodle Salad With Peanut Dressing Makes 4 to 6 servings

This easy salad is a nice change of pace from the mayo-laden pasta salads you’ll come across at every cookout from now through September. Locally made jarred peanut sauce serves as an instant dressing. 8 ounces dry rice noodles for pad Thai (¼-inch-wide noodles) 2 green onions, chopped 1 medium (8-ounce) cucumber, seeded and finely chopped 1 red jalapeño chile, seeded and minced 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint ½ cup Thai and True Peanut Sauce 2 tablespoons fish sauce ½ cup dry roasted peanuts, roughly chopped Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Break the rice noodles in half and add them to the water. Boil, stirring frequently, until a noodle fished from the water is tender when bitten, 3½ to 4 minutes. Drain the noodles, rinse with cold water, and drain thoroughly. In a mixing bowl combine the remaining ingredients. Add the noodles and toss to coat. Keep chilled in an airtight container. — Ivy Manning

Lemon Grass Green Tea Makes 8 cups

Infusing tea with lemon grass makes for the ultimate herballemony iced tea. When shopping for lemon grass stalks, make sure that the lemon grass is moist and the bulb end is plump. Local tea maker Steven Smith’s Mao Fen Shui is a delicate, leafy green flavored tea that pairs beautifully with the citrus notes of lemon grass. 4 stalks fresh lemon grass 8 cups boiling water 1 tablespoon sugar 5 bags Steven Smith Teamaker’s Mao Fen Shui Green Tea Gently smack the lemon grass stalks with a pestle or meat mallet to release their volatile oils. Discard the first layer of lemon grass and cut the stalks into 4-inch lengths. Place the lemon grass in a 2-quart pitcher and pour the hot water over. Add the sugar and tea bags and allow the tea to steep for 3-4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove the tea bags, but leave the lemon grass in the tea and chill for at least 1 or up to 24 hours. Strain the tea into a large Thermos and refrigerate until ready to picnic. — Ivy Manning

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MENU 2:

high energy hikingx

Quinoa, Pickled Beet and Goat Cheese Salad Makes 6 servings

Quinoa is an ancient Andean grain that is packed with protein and has a mild, earthy flavor. Quinoa does best when paired with assertive flavors such as the delicious pickled beets from Unbound Pickling and creamy, salty Fraga Farms goat cheese feta. 1 cup quinoa ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 small clove garlic 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 green onions, chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves 1 cup (5 ounces) drained Unbound Pickling Beatnik Pickled Beets, chopped 2 ounces Fraga Farms Goat Feta Cheese, crumbled Place the quinoa in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse thoroughly with cool water, drain and place in a medium saucepan. Add 2 cups water, the salt and the pepper to the pan, bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the quinoa has absorbed all the liquid and is tender, 15 minutes. Transfer quinoa to a large bowl and refrigerate until cool to the touch. Finely chop the garlic clove and then smash the garlic into a paste with the side of a chef ’s knife. Place garlic in a small bowl and whisk in the lemon juice, vinegar and olive oil. Toss the quinoa with the vinaigrette, green onions and mint. Gently fold the beets into the salad and transfer it to an airtight container. Sprinkle the cheese over the top, lock on the lid, and keep chilled until ready to eat. The salad will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator. — Ivy Manning

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LLT Bagels (Lox, Lettuce & Tomato) Makes 4 sandwiches

Bagels are great hiking fare because their tight crumb means you don’t have to worry about sandwiches getting soggy as you summit the mountain (or hill). We recommend wild chinook salmon lox from The Smokery (available at the PSU Farmers Market), but feel free to substitute other locally sourced wild smoked salmon if you like. 4 Kettleman Bagel Company White Rye Bagels 8 tablespoons Kettleman Vegetable Cream Cheese Schmear 4 large green leaf lettuce leaves, washed and patted dry 6 ounces The Smokery Wild Chinook Salmon Lox 1 medium (8-ounce) heirloom tomato, thinly sliced ½ small sweet onion, thinly sliced

Split the bagels in half and spread each bagel with 2 tablespoons of the schmear. Top with the lettuce, salmon, tomato and onion. Wrap each bagel tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to hike. If you won’t be eating for more than 4 hours, pack the bagels with an ice pack to keep them cool. — Ivy Manning

Where to load up the picnic basket x Bahn Mi Baguettes, Shredded Daikon-Carrot Salad, Kewpie Mayonnaise: Fubonn grocery store, 2850 s.e. 82nd ave.; fubonn.com Blossom Vinegars Walla Walla Onion Vinegar: psu, beaverton and hillsdale farmers markets and local grocery stores; visit blossomvinegars.com for locations Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard: Many grocery stores around the region including whole Foods, new seasons and Foster and dobbs; dulcetcuisine.com Farmhouse Country Pâté: chop butchery and charcuterie, in city Market (735 n.w. 21st ave., 503-221-3012), at the psu portland Farmers Market, and new location behind tasty n sons (3808 n. williams ave., suite e, 503-288-1901); chopbutchery.com Fraga Farms Goat Cheese Feta: portland, hillsdale, sweet home and Lebanon farmers markets, new seasons, Food Front co-op and people’s co-op Freddy Guys Chunky Hazelnut-Cocoa Butter: psu portland farmers market; freddyguys.com Freddy Guys Dry Roasted Hazelnuts: psu portland Farmers Market, pastaworks, Market of choice grocery stores; freddyguys.com Gene Thiel’s Potatoes: prairie creek Farm booth at psu portland Farmers Market Kettleman white rye bagels and schmear: visit kettlemanbagels.com for locations

Craisin Hazelnut Trail Bars Makes 12 bars

In the unlikely event you lost your way in the forest, one of these chewy, nutty homemade granola bars would keep you alive for weeks, provided you nibbled judiciously. For those of us with GPS devices, the bars serve as a delicious dessert on the trail. The secret? Fresh, locally grown hazelnuts, plump dried cranberries from Vincent Family farms, and a smidgen of peanut butter. 2½ cups old-fashioned rolled oats (not instant) 1½ cups Freddy Guys roasted hazelnuts (divided) ½ cup wheat germ 1½ teaspoons cinnamon ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup Vincent Family dried cranberries ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into chunks ⁄3 cup maple syrup

1

½ cup brown sugar, packed ½ cup all-natural peanut butter 2 eggs, beaten

Olympic Provisions Bacon: 107 s.e. washington st., 503-954-3663; and 1632 n.w. thurman st., 503-894-8136; olympicprovisions.com (Laurelhurst Market also has excellent bacon: 3155 e. burnside st., 503-206-3099; laurelhurstmarket.com)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place the oats on a baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until the oats smell toasty, 10 minutes. Remove oats from oven and transfer them to a large mixing bowl.

Otto’s Precooked Chicken Sausages: otto’s sausage kitchen, 4138 s.e. woodstock blvd., 503-771-6714; ottossausage.com

Place 1 cup of the hazelnuts and the wheat germ, cinnamon and salt in a food processor. Pulse until finely ground. Add mixture to the oats. Chop the remaining nuts with a chef ’s knife. Add the chopped nuts and dried cranberries to the bowl with the oats and stir to combine.

Steven Smith Teamakers Mao Feng Shui green tea: smith teamaker tea room (1626 n.w. thurman st., 503-719-8752; smithtea.com), Zupan’s, whole Foods, new seasons and sheridan Fruit co.

Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Lay a piece of parchment across the bottom and up the short sides of the dish to make it easier to lift out the cookies later. In a small saucepan, combine the butter, maple syrup, brown sugar and peanut butter and bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking occasionally until butter has melted and mixture is smooth. Pour the mixture over the oat-nut mixture in mixing bowl and stir to combine. Stir in the beaten eggs until combined.

Thai and True Peanut Sauce: new seasons, Zupan’s and whole Foods; armeda.biz/thaiandtrue

Press the mixture into the prepared pan, packing the mixture down lightly using the bottom of a measuring cup. Bake until golden brown, about 20 to 30 minutes. Allow to cool in the pan for at least 1 hour. Run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen, lift out using the overhanging parchment as handles, and cut into bars. — Adapted from Ivy Manning

Unbound Pickling Beatnik Beets: whole Foods, psu portland Farmers Market, king Farmers Market and Foster and dobbs Vincent Family Dried Cranberries: new seasons, whole Foods, Zupan’s, psu portland Farmers Market; vincentcranberries.com Wild Line-Caught Chinook Salmon Lox: the smokery psu portland Farmers Market; thesmokery.com

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MENU 3:

barbecue on the beachx

Grilled Chicken Sausages With Interesting Peppers and Curry Mustard Makes 6 servings

Using precooked sausages like the delicious chicken sausages from Otto’s Sausage Kitchen are a smart bet for cookouts: you need only grill them until they are heated through (about 20 minutes total) and there’s no worry about the centers being raw. Pack the sausages in a cooler with ice until ready to grill. For a quick side dish throw a few pounds of interesting peppers like Corno di Toro, Nardello, Cubanelle and Gypsy peppers on the grill alongside the sausages; these varieties are mild enough to grill and eat whole. Look for fun peppers at farmers markets starting this month, or use bell peppers if you must. Sweet and slightly spicy Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard is a perfect foil for the chicken sausage. 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 pounds mixed mild chile peppers, seeds and ribs removed Salt Freshly ground black pepper 34

12 precooked chicken sausages Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard, for serving In a zip-top bag combine the olive oil, peppers and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Toss to coat the peppers with the oil. When ready to cook, preheat a grill over medium high heat. (If using a charcoal grill, you should be able to hold your hand 5 inches above the grill for 3 seconds.) Place the sausages on the grill and cook until heated through, about 10 minutes per side. Place peppers on the grill and cook, turning once or twice, until the skins are lightly charred and the peppers begin to collapse, about 15 minutes total. Pile the sausages and peppers on a large platter and serve with curry mustard on the side. — Ivy Manning

German Potato Salad Makes 6 to 8 servings

German potato salad is deceptively simple; it’s essentially bacon, vinegar and potatoes. Skimp on the quality of these ingredients, and you might as well buy it at the grocery store deli. To make a really great potato salad, we recommend the rich, butter-yellow potatoes from Gene Thiel’s Prairie Creek Farm, bacon from Olympic Provisions, and sweet onion-infused vinegar from Blossom Vinegars. 6 strips (about 7 ounces) Olympic Provisions bacon 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar 2½ tablespoons grainy mustard 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 6 tablespoons Blossom Vinegars Walla Walla Onion Vinegar ½ cup warm chicken broth 3 pounds small Yukon Gold potatoes 1 tablespoon table salt, plus more for seasoning ½ cup finely chopped sweet onion ⁄3 cup minced chives

1

Freshly ground black pepper

In a large sauté pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp. Transfer to a cooling rack set over a plate to catch the excess grease. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat and return pan to medium heat. Add the brown sugar, mustard, caraway seeds and vinegar and cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved, 5 minutes. Add the broth and keep warm over low heat. Fill a large pot with 16 cups cold water. Peel the potatoes, cut them into thin slices about ¼-inch thick, and drop them into the pot as you work. Add the salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer the potatoes until they are easily pierced with a fork, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain the potatoes and transfer them to a large serving bowl. Immediately toss them with the warm dressing, onion and chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and allow the salad to stand for at least 10 minutes (the potatoes will absorb the dressing as they stand). Before serving, crumble the cooked bacon and stir into the salad. (The salad can be made up to 2 days in advance; cool completely and store in an airtight container. Allow salad to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.) — Ivy Manning

Strawberries with Freddy Guys Hazelnut-Cocoa Butter Makes 4 servings

OK, so this isn’t exactly cooking, it’s shopping. But when Oregon strawberries are in season, it is best to do as little to them as possible in order to savor their perfection. The only way they might be improved is if you happen to dunk them in the rich chocolate-hazelnut spread from Freddy Guys Hazelnuts. It elevates summer’s best fruit to an elegant picnic dessert in just one step. 2 pints organic strawberries One 7-ounce container Freddy Guys Chunky Hazelnut-Cocoa Butter Rinse the strawberries. Line a sealable plastic container large enough to comfortably hold the berries with a few layers of paper towels. Carefully place the berries in the container. When ready to eat, just dip them in the chocolate hazelnut spread. — Ivy Manning £

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the city’s

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50

best summer sips

Summer takes its sweet time arriving in Portland, but when the thermometer finally hits the high notes, you need drinkable relief that’ll cool you to the core. Lucky for us, there’s no end to the array of icy drinks available around town. Boozy slushies, golden ales, creamy shakes and crisp rosés — they’re all out there just waiting for you to take a sip. To help you get the most out of every gulp, we slurped our way around the city to find the 50 best summer drinks, from seasonal cocktails to revitalizing smoothies and everything in between. Whether you’re a hop head, a wine lover or a caffeine fiend, your perfect summer sip awaits.

photograph by motoya nakamura

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STumpTown by The boTTle:

Icy coffee and Tea Woodland Dream at Alma Chocolate: many coffee shops offer iced mochas if you fancy a little bit of chocolate with your coffee. but at alma it’s the reverse — you get a little bit of coffee with your chocolate. For the heat of summer, alma puts its wintry drinking chocolates on ice (swapping the chocolate to a varietal with enough fruity notes to stand up to the cold), then shakes them with milk and a shot of spella espresso, topped with a hit of thick, unsweetened cream. many customers gravitate toward the caramelita, with the sweet-hot high notes of habanero-infused caramel, but our favorite is the Woodland Dream, with oregon hazelnut praline giving it a subtle, almost nutella-like depth. 140 NE 28th Ave., 503-517-0262, almachocolate.com — Deena Prichep

Vietnamese Coffee at An Xuyen: banh mi may be the bestknown example of the fusion of French and Vietnamese cuisines, but this crossover extends to beverages as well — most notably Vietnamese coffee. traditionally served iced to beat the southeast asian heat, the café au lait-loving French imperialists introduced it to the Vietnamese highlands and lightened it with the only dairy available: sweetened condensed milk. the resulting coffee has the depth of a French roast, with photograph by brian Feulner

creamy, almost caramelized notes from the condensed milk. at an Xuyen bakery, tucked away on southeast Foster, you can pick up a sweetly refreshing cup to accompany your banh mi (or guava cookies, or mooncakes, or, most delightfully, adorable lotus paste-filled buns in the shape of tiny pigs). 5345 S.E. Foster Road, 503-788-0866, anxuyenbakery.com — Deena Prichep

photograph by brian Feulner

Fruit Teas at Smith Tea: the graceful bottles, tasteful euro labels and jewel-like colors are what first catch your eye, but the hook is set when the cool, soft flavors pass your lips and slide over your tongue. the White petal is a gentle infusion of pear, apple, white tea and chamomile flowers steeped in filtered water and sweetened with raw cane sugar, while the black cap notches up the flavor quotient with blackberries and black tea. my favorite, though, is a perky and refreshing blend of honeybush and rooibos leaves with raspberries. pull these out of your picnic hamper this summer or give them as a gift. Find the bottles at pastaworks or at the tearoom, where you can also order the teas by the glass. 1626 N.W. Thurman St., 503-719-8752, smithtea.com — Kathleen Bauer

if your idea of iced coffee is pouring the refrigerated leftovers from your morning brew over ice, you are sadly, profoundly missing out. the best iced coffees are cold-brewed, a long (usually overnight) process that allows the coffee to retain all its richness and nuance. admittedly, making your own cold-brewed coffee requires patience and planning, two things commonly in short supply. but coming to the rescue is stumptown, which now bottles its coldbrewed coffee in 101⁄2-ounce stubbies and sells them at its portland and seattle cafes for $3.50. the roaster uses its house blend, and the result is rich and full flavored, with bright acidity backed by round chocolaty notes. the coffee is so good you can sip it unadulterated from the squat amber-colored bottles (which is really fun to do at work because everyone thinks you’re pounding down a red stripe. psych!), but if you must add cream or sugar, it’s flavorful enough to take it. For locations, visit stumptowncoffee.com

Shakerato at Spella Caffe: andrea spella hand-pulls some of the city’s best espresso with his smallbatch, hand-roasted beans. but with sunny skies, trade in that cappuccino for the shakerato, the platonic ideal of iced coffee. italy’s caffe shakerato — usually just espresso and simple syrup vigorously shaken with ice — gets a shot of milk at spella. Following tradition, each drink is hand-shaken, martini-style, until nice and cold, then quickly strained so the ice doesn’t water down the intense, rich brew. 520 S.W. Fifth Ave., 503-752-0264, spellacaffe.com — Danielle Centoni

photograph by mike DaVis

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Gingerberry at Sip Juice Cart: For centuries, fresh ginger has been used as a home remedy against everything from motion sickness to arthritis. at this all-vegan juice cart next to southeast’s people’s Food co-op, it’s a sure cure for thirsty summer afternoons, blended to frozen frothiness with fresh strawberries, apple, agave nectar and antioxidant-loaded blueberries. if it’s really hot, between sips you can hold the compostable plastic cup to your forehead. brain-freeze never felt or tasted so good! 3029 S.E. 21st Ave., 503-964-0820, sipjuicecart.com — Grant Butler

ShakeS

Walnut Honey Cardamom Coriander Shake at Perierra Crêperie: most patrons of this

Townshend’s Brew Dr. Kombucha on Tap: kombucha’s

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vinegary funk made a hater out of me when i first tried it years ago. but townshend’s brew Dr. line of balanced, flavorful kombuchas have completely won me over. the most refreshing of the bunch is White rose, made with white peony tea, rose petals and hibiscus. it’s lightly floral and tart, almost magically thirstquenching, and often available on tap at Whole Foods markets in hollywood and the pearl. it’s also available by the bottle at most locally owned grocery stores around town. Whole Foods Markets in Hollywood and the Pearl District, visit wholefoodsmarket.com for location information People’s Co-op, 3029 S.E. 21st Ave., 503232-9051; peoples.coop Alberta Grocery Co-op, 1500 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-287-4333; albertagrocery. coop brewdrkombucha.com — Danielle Centoni

Sparkler at Red E Cafe: a glass of bubbly water is always a good way to cool off (both your palate and your sweaty self). at the red e cafe, baristas routinely offered patrons a sip before serving up a shot of espresso. this naturally led to combining the two, in a drink they call the sparkler.

a double shot of espresso (roasts alternate between intelligentsia, coava, heart and sterling) is poured over a sparkling glass of san pellegrino. the end result looks like a glass of root beer but tastes like something entirely different. the cold temperature brings out the bright, acidic notes of the shot, which combine with the bubbles for a buzzed-up summertime refresher. 1006 N. Killingsworth St., 503-998-1387, theredecafe.com — Deena Prichep

SmooThIeS

Ozark Gold at Kure Juice Bar: summertime in the ozarks is hot, humid and uncomfortably sticky, but any southerner would think they’d struck pure gold with this refreshing smoothie at southeast hawthorne’s new juice bar. Fresh peach, banana and pineapple get puréed with mango sorbet, almond milk, fresh orange juice and just a touch of fresh ginger, creating the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, with a hint of the tropics. 4409 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-6881006, kurejuicebar.com — Grant Butler

cartopia crêperie walk away with a stuffed golden crepe from one of the sizzling cast-iron turntables crowding the front counter. but every now and then, above the nutella jar-rattling strains of über-cool French hip-hop, you’ll hear the blender birthing one of perierra’s oft-overlooked and alwaysinteresting milkshakes, like this heady concoction of vanilla bean ice cream, walnuts, cardamom and coriander. served in a honey-drizzled cup and

topped with a delicate sprinkle of crushed walnuts and spice, it’s superbly rich, nutty, creamy and slightly exotic, a refreshing $5 summer diversion that tastes like a stroll through istanbul’s spice bazaar. also tempting is the golden grahams shake, which tastes like saturday morning cartoons. S.E. 12th Avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard — Jen Stevenson

Mexican Chocolate Shake at Cool Moon: Just a stone’s throw from the squealing, splashing frenzy of Jamison square, cool moon caters to the hordes of kids and families who pack the water park all summer long. but it doesn’t forget its tony pearl District surroundings, offering housemade ice cream in unusual flavors like spicy thai chili. you can turn any of the ice creams into a shake or go for one of cool moon’s standards: cinnamon-y mexican chocolate and sweetly spiced vanilla chai manage to be warming and refreshing at the same time — perfect if you’re still wet from the park. 1105 N.W. Johnson St., 503-224-2021, coolmoonicecream.com — Danielle Centoni

Chocolate Malt at Fat City Cafe: Juicy burgers, beefy hot dogs, shakes so thick you can barely suck them through a straw and you get the mixing cup, too. this is it: milkshake nirvana, a real-deal photography by ranDy l. rasmussen

diner and a rarity in these days of theme-parky impostors and cut-rate operations. hovering around $4 for essentially two servings, shakes are both perfect and inexpensive — an almost too-good-to-be-true combination. the butterscotch tastes like liquefied brach’s candy, while malteds pack a punch of robust flavor. 7820 S.W. Capitol Highway, 503-245-5457, fatcitycafe.net — Danielle Centoni

Batidos at Pambiche: if the summer days aren’t sapping your thirst for travel, stop by our local nook of cuban culture, pambiche, where the sweet, frothy batidos (cuban milkshakes) are best dressed in tropical fruits: mango, spiced banana and mango-piña. or try the non-fruity flavors, cafe or mocha, for a sophisticated liquid dessert. 2811 N.E. Glisan St., 503-233-0511, pambiche.com — Lucy Burningham Coffee Shakes at Jim & Patty’s Coffee: known best for creating the popular coffee people franchise, Jim and patty roberts are still doing what they do best, but with one location instead of dozens. From the long list of shakes, lemon cheesecake is tangy bliss, made from vanilla ice cream (from prince puckler’s in eugene), buttermilk and lemon juice. coffee shakes, like the ever popular black tiger and Velvet hammer, include generous amounts of caffeine in some form — either drip coffee, espresso and/or coffee grounds, the grittiness of

which is an acquired taste. 4951 N.E. Fremont St., 503-284-2121, jimandpattys.com — Danielle Centoni

White Russian Shake at Foster Burger: Foster burger’s boozy milkshakes elicit immediate cravings for a smooth and sinful treat when servers parade them through the no-frills southeast burger joint. but just in case they don’t grab your attention on appearance alone, the staff has given them a moniker so cheeky we can’t print it here. a spiked milkshake is hard to beat, particularly the White russian, which subs housemade vanilla ice cream for the recipe’s traditional cream. the Dude would be proud. 5339 S.E. Foster Road, 503-775-2077, fosterburger.com — Ashley Gartland

Berry Shakes at Smith BerryBarn: no visit to smith berrybarn’s u-pick farm, garden market and countrified gift shop is complete without a stop inside the big red barn for a classic berry shake. owners Joelle and rich hildner blend vanilla ice cream with berries from their 30-acre family farm to create fresh fruit shakes in flavors of raspberry, marionberry, strawberry, boysenberry and blackberry. after a hot afternoon spent berry picking in the fields, a creamy shake with a deep berry flavor is a most appropriate reward. 24500 S.W. Scholls Ferry Road, Hillsboro, 503-628-2172, smithberrybarn.com — Ashley Gartland

Grasshopper Shake at The Original: With more than half a dozen adult shakes offered, it’s hard to pick just one. but our favorite is the (not green) grasshopper with crème de menthe and crème de cacao whipped into chocolate ice cream. the shakes are fabulously rich and generous — this is one of the few places that give you the mixing cup, too. and the alcoholic and mint overtones are just strong enough to keep the drink from being cloying. 300 S.W. Sixth Ave., 503-546-2666, originaldinerant.com — Audrey Van Buskirk

Cookies and Cream Shake at Rose’s Ice Cream: Don’t let the charmless location deter you. the service is friendly and the ice cream at this portland institution is pure decadence. this is the only place in town where you can customize the butterfat of your shake. maybe offset that cheeseburger and onion rings with a 6 percenter made with vanilla ice cream and one of the many syrups, including marshmallow and maple. or, go whole hog with a 14 percenter and use any of the shop’s ice creams as a base. our pick? cookies and cream ice cream, chocolate syrup and malt. 5011 N.E. 42nd Ave., 503-256-3333 — Danielle Centoni

Mint Tingle Milkshake at Moonstruck Cafe: For some people, a milkshake simply isn’t worth the calories unless it’s chocolate. moonstruck’s cafes exist just for them. the half-dozen flavors are all intensely chocolaty even though they’re made with vanilla ice cream. While peanut butter, cinnamon, chai and root beer are all tempting, cooling mint tingle trumps them on hot days. it’s like drinking an after eight mint with crunchy bits of honeycomb candy thrown in to keep things interesting. Various locations, moonstruckchocolate.com — Danielle Centoni

floaTS

Floats (2)

lImonana — The moST delIcIouS ThIng you’re noT drInkIng Visit israel in the summer, and you’ll find almost everyone sipping slushy bright green drinks from sidewalk cafes. What is this incredibly popular (and eye-catching) elixir? it’s limonana, a deliciously tart, minty cross between lemonade and a smoothie. limonana (the name is a mash-up of the hebrew words for lemon and mint) sounds delicious, right? it most definitely is, but strangely enough, it’s hard to find in the u.s., even though it requires no unusual ingredients, equipment or techniques. it’s been sighted in new york and oakland, calif., but we haven’t found anyone in portland selling it. hopefully this sad state of affairs is only temporary. meanwhile, here’s our recipe so you can make it yourself.

Limonana makes 1 serVing

2 small lemons ¼ to 1⁄3 cup fresh mint leaves ½ cup water 3 tablespoons honey 1 cup ice cubes cut the peel and pith off the lemon and remove the seeds. place the flesh in a blender along with the mint, water, honey and ice. blend until slushy. taste and add more mint, honey or lemon as desired.

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photograph by Danielle centoni

Cherry-Chocolate Floats at Ruby Jewel: the floats here have an array of permutations. start with thomas kemper root beer, hot lips cherry soda or reed’s ginger brew, then add any flavor of ice cream from the shop’s evolving roster. sure, a scoop of plain vanilla in root beer will take you back to your childhood, but there’s nothing wrong with creating new memories. try the cherry soda with a plop of chocolate ice cream or ginger beer floated with honey lavender. 3713 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-505-9314, rubyjewel.net — Lucy Burningham

Three cool boTTle openerS ThaT’ll fIT In your pockeT there are few things more crushing than being out in nature, far from the nearest convenience store, with a six-pack of non-twist-off bottles and no opener in sight. We know the feeling all too well, so we scouted around for bottle openers that are small enough to fit in your pocket, or cool enough to carry on your key chain, so you’ll never leave it home again.

Hawaiian Sunset Float at Blueplate: entering blueplate’s old-time lunch counter and soda fountain feels like walking into a norman rockwell painting. one glance at the menu of soda floats, however, proves that this downtown lunch spot serves more than brown cows and egg creams. slide onto a stool at the long lunch counter and enjoy a fashionable float made with an imaginative housemade soda and a scoop of extraordinarily rich cascade glacier ice cream. When the weather calls for a sweet tropical drink, make your order a hawaiian sunset. the float’s exotic pineapple, coconut and strawberry soda will make you forget the classics the moment your lips touch the straw. 308 S.W. Washington St., 503-295-2583, eatatblueplate.com — Ashley Gartland

SodaS

with the sour tang of the phosphate. 7206 N.E. Sandy Blvd., 503-284-1159, fairleyspharmacy.com — Audrey Van Buskirk

Egg Cream at Compote: “you Green River soda at Fairley’s Pharmacy: if you’re planning a trip to the restored roseway theater, kick off the vintage vibe by perching on a stool at the soda fountain inside Fairley’s pharmacy, just across the street. Fairley’s, still a full-service pharmacy, opened in 1913 and serves an unusual array of shakes, floats and sodas. but for a truly retro sipper try a phosphate soda, preferably in the lurid verdant hue of the green river. phosphate sodas can be had in nearly any flavor (it’s basically a soda enlivened with a dash of phosphoric acid), but the tartness of the lime works wonderfully

scream, i steam, we all want egg cream,” growls lou reed in his tribute to the quintessential old new york quaffer. in classic big apple insider style, the egg cream contains neither egg nor cream. it’s basically fizzy chocolate milk, and must be knocked back in short order to preserve the delicate buzz. Find a charming portland version at this sweet new clinton street coffeehouse-bakery. served in a generous glass with a candy-cane striped paper straw, it’ll take you back to days playing stickball on the lower east side, even if you’ve never crossed the mississippi. 2032 S.E. Clinton St., 503-234-5689, compotepdx.com — Audrey Van Buskirk

Sarsaparilla at Pyro Pizza: Flip Flops button Just 2¼ inches across, this bottle opener can easily fit anywhere — pocket, purse, glove compartment — and it has a ring for attaching to your key chain. $5 at the Flirtbuttons etsy store (etsy.com/shop/ flirtbuttons), or troll etsy for hundreds of other designs.

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Key bottle opener it looks like a cool skeleton key, but it’s really a low-profile bottle opener that blends seamlessly with the other keys on your ring. $8 at urban outfitters (urbanoutfitters.com).

Ring Thing: ok, so we wouldn’t actually want to wear this on a regular basis, but it’s the smallest opener we’ve ever seen, which makes it perfect for stashing in tight spaces, like a bike bag or (ahem) a desk drawer. $8 at thinkgeek.com/caffeine/accessories/756e.

Food carts might scream trendy, but they’re actually a deep-rooted concept, so it’s appropriate that the pyro pizza cart is the place to sample one of the most old-fashioned sodas: sarsaparilla. it sounds like something a cowboy would drink on the range (and it was), and it’s almost impossible not to slow down and relax a bit while sipping the tawny brew. Dense with intrigue, the flavor combines a mildly herbal root beer (the sassafras herb is reputed to treat a range of maladies, from eczema to leprosy), with a hit of something pleasantly sweet (that’s the organic cane sugar pyro pizza uses to sweeten its sodas). Southeast 12th Avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard, 503-929-1404, pyropizzacart.com — Audrey Van Buskirk

beer

Beer (8)

Line Dry Rye from Oakshire Brewing: a grainy, biscuity rye beer usually doesn’t scream summer, but eugene’s oakshire brewing releases its line Dry rye right now for a reason. not only does the label feature bright, freshly washed clothes drying in the breeze, but the orange-hued beer tastes a tad sweet with a refreshing juxtaposition of fizzy carbonation and earthiness, a package that makes line Dry rye food friendly, especially alongside anything from the grill. Available in 22-ounce bottles and on tap at many restaurants and pubs around town; oakbrew.com — Lucy Burningham photograph by ranDy l. rasmussen

Nightfall from Cascade Brewing: banish the idea of

Lost Day IPA at Deschutes Brewery: portlanders: count your-

Evelyn’s Imperial Sunshine Double IPA at Hopworks:

stripped-down seasonal beers before sipping cascade brewing’s nightfall, a soured blond wheat beer that’s aged solo in barrels before organic blackberries join for some hang time. the result? a complex, tart beer that’s puckery and dry, with just enough essence-of-berry to make you feel like you’re celebrating the season’s bounty. 939 S.E. Belmont St., 503-265-8603, cascadebrewingbarrelhouse.com — Lucy Burningham

self lucky. We can pop into the pearl District’s Deschutes brewery and public house for small-batch, locally brewed beers that will never see the inside of any bottles. right now, snag one of the sidewalk picnic tables and order a lost Day ipa, a session style imperial pale ale brewed with experimental hops. brewer ryan schmige says the new hop, a hybrid from a local grower, was the key ingredient in a beer with a clean bitterness, delicate, floral flavors and pear and apricot aromas. 210 N.W. 11th Ave., 503-296-4906, deschutesbrewery.com — Lucy Burningham

hopworks urban brewery’s christian ettinger, object of many a man-crush for his prowess in the zymurgic arts as well as his dedication to sustainability, debuts his spanking-new bikebar this summer along north Williams avenue’s bike highway. sit in one of the two beer gardens and sip evelyn’s imperial sunshine Double ipa, a bright, golden, deliciously hoppy ipa layered with citrus and pine notes. created to celebrate the birth of ettinger’s daughter, it’ll strut its stuff at both hopworks locations and at the oregon brewer’s Festival scheduled for July 28-31. Hopworks Urban Brewery, 2944 S.E. Powell Blvd., 503-232-4677 Hopworks BikeBar, 3951 N. Williams Ave., hopworksbeer.com — Kathleen Bauer

Wheat the People from Coalition Brewing: Feeling parched? head to coalition brewing for a pint of Wheat the people, a classic golden pale ale with a touch of haze that drinks like a thirst-quencher, but with the depth and graininess of a beer that can be contemplated as easily as glugged. low alcohol (4.4 percent abV) and minimal hops complete the picture; this beer won’t destroy any afternoons. available at the brewery’s small, neighborhood pub, across the street from its brewing facilities. 2724 S.E. Ankeny St., 503-894-8080, coalitionbrewing.com — Lucy Burningham

photography by motoya nakamura

Slora Rustica at Upright Brewing: alex ganum goes old school with the release of slora rustica, his summer seasonal beer. brewed in a historic saison style, it’s very light and dry with an appropriate amount of bitterness for a farmhouse beer. made with yarrow flowers and calendula flowers that dominate the nose, its deep gold color gives it a romantic glow. best of all? it’s available in bottles at many bottle shops, making it a perfect choice for summer picnics and outdoor gatherings. uprightbrewing.com — Kathleen Bauer

Tea Beer at Rogue Brewing: John couchot’s title says it all: master Distiller/mad scientist. Walking around his distillery-cum-laboratory confirms the description. this guy’s doing some wacky things, with buckets and containers bubbling away in every nook and cranny. his latest fascination (some dyed-in-the-wool hopheads might say heresy) is using smith teamakers’ assam black tea instead of hops to flavor beer, giving it an amber color with an apricot nose that follows through on the first sip,

and a slight tea-like astringency on the finish. it’s a dry and refreshing quaffer on a summer day. Find it at the green Dragon and rogue pubs. 928 S.E. 9th Ave., 503-517-0660, pdxgreendragon.com 339 N.W. Flanders St., 503-222-5910; and 1717 S.W. Park Ave.; rogue.com — Kathleen Bauer

Seizoen Bretta by Logsdon Farmhouse Ales: plenty of brewers these days claim to brew “farmhouse” ales, meaning the refreshing, yeast-driven beers that were traditionally brewed in the belgian and French countryside for local consumption. but there’s just one problem: no farmhouse. not so for Dave logsdon, first brewmaster of Full sail who with a partner just opened a brewery on logsdon’s beautiful working farm outside of hood river, complete with a big red barn, pets, horses and highland cattle. seizoen bretta (8 percent abV) is a traditional malty, yeasty saison spiked with brettanomyces yeast, which adds woody, earthy, almost leathery notes. it’s one of logsdon’s first beers and tastes like a bright, warm, farmhouse summer in a bottle. look for bottles at new seasons, bailey’s tap room, saraveza and beer mongers, among others. farmhousebeer.com — Christian DeBenedetti

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cockTaIlS

Kalamansi Rum Punch at Ping: there’s no shortage of trendy punches being served in town, but ping’s bright kalamansi rum punch is the one we want to drink when we’re noshing on plates of shishito chili skewers and steamed pork buns at the izakaya-style watering hole. the lively cocktail introduces imbibers to kalamansi — an asian citrus fruit that tastes like a kumquat — in the form of a housemade kalamansi simple syrup. bar manager timothy navarrette matches it with orange juice and a splash of soda, and rounds out the citrusy mixture with a generous lashing of rum. 102 N.W. Fourth Ave., 503-229-7464, pingpdx.com — Ashley Gartland photograph by motoya nakamura

Horchata Borracha at Por Que No: even though por Que no’s oaxacan-inspired tacos aren’t overwhelmingly spicy, a douse of one of their squirt-bottle salsas (especially the habanero) requires the right beverage: a creamy cool horchata borracha. the cocktail combines housemade horchata, a combo of rice and almond milk, with a hot splash of barbancourt rum. served over ice with a dusty dash of cinnamon. Arriba! 3524 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-467-4149; and 4635 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503954–3138; porquenotacos.com — Lucy Burningham

Moscow Mule at Gilt Club: Drinking from a chunky mug may seem anathema to summer, but traditional copper mule mugs are the perfect vessel for icy summer drinks. the copper conducts the cold so well, every part of you that touches it, from your lips to your fingertips, gets treated to an arctic chill. at gilt, what goes in the cup is just as refreshing — spicy, peppery housemade ginger

beer, piles of crushed ice and a bracing blast of vodka. 306 N.W. Broadway, 503-222-4458, giltclub.com — Danielle Centoni

Departure Sling at Departure Lounge: With its

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ultramodern decor, swanked-up patrons and cocktail list peppered with travel-inspired drinks like the arrival, the Departure and the new horizons, the zoomiest bar in town has a way of transporting you to another world — as in los angeles. Walk through the sleek bar with its old-style techno soundtrack, head for the groovy skyport patio with acrophobia-inducing see-through railings overlooking downtown, and adopt your most insouciant moue as you lounge on a low-slung mid-century couch. then order the cooling Departure sling featuring hendrick’s gin, pomegranate and elderflower liqueurs and lime juice — and prepare for takeoff. 525 S.W. Morrison St., 503-802-5370, departureportland.com — Kathleen Bauer

Valhalla at Wildwood: a nice herbal gin is one of our favorite summer spirits — and the reason we order a tom collins so often this time of year. at Wildwood, bar manager ryan csanky intensifies our gin appreciation with a refreshing alternative: the Valhalla. the cooling cocktail

photograph by brian Feulner

combines equal parts gin, krogstad aquavit and cointreau with muddled cucumber and fresh lime juice; the result is just the sort of thirstquenching drink we crave when we’re enjoying the sunshine and scenery on Wildwood’s outdoor patio. 1221 N.W. 21st Ave., 503-248-9663, wildwoodrestaurant.com — Ashley Gartland

Cleared for Departure at Metrovino: molecular gastronomy is creeping from dinner menus onto cocktail lists, and the always-edgy Jacob grier at metrovino is taking off with the cleared For Departure, made with clarified lime juice, aviation gin, maraschino liqueur and crême de violette. “the clarification removes solids from the juice allowing for a perfectly clear drink with smoother mouth feel,” according to grier. and while some claim to need thousands of dollars’ worth of equipment to make the clarified juice, grier makes his with a little agar and a whisk. Very Diy, and totally portland. 1139 N.W. 11th Ave., 503-517-7778, metrovinopdx.com — Kathleen Bauer

The Souracher at Zeus Cafe: acclaimed bartender David shenaut has left the irving street kitchen to work for the mcmenamins Zeus cafe

 onlIne eXTra: get the recipe for Jacob grier’s cleared for departure cocktail at mIXpdX.com

in the new crystal hotel downtown, where he’s planning to shake things up with his signature souracher cocktail. named after a brilliant kitchen staffer he worked with at brad root’s eponymous restaurant in camas, Wash., who liked to end his shift with a combination of lime juice, campari and whiskey, shenaut was intrigued enough to spend five years perfecting it. he describes it as “incredibly balanced and packed with flavor, with both masculine and feminine qualities.” i call it irresistible. 303 S.W. 12th Ave., 503-972-2670, mcmenamins.com/CrystalHotel — Kathleen Bauer

grated coconut, plus fresh pineapple juice, house-made pineapple gum syrup and ron matusalem platino cuban rum, the rich, creamy drink is mixed with crushed ice, poured into a curvy hurricane glass and garnished with a housemade brandied cherry. balanced yet decadent, sweet but not cloying, layered with real flavor, it’s tropical luxe in a glass. 1015 N.W. Everett St., 503-445-8109, teardroplounge.com — Danielle centoni

SluShy-boozy goodneSS

Slushy-Boozy Goodness (5)

Sal’s Minion at Beaker and Flask: a deconstructed version of a previous tiki-inspired cocktail called sal’s paradise, this “minion” of that drink smells like a suntan. beaker and Flask’s wall of windows is reminiscent of an airport, so you can imagine you’re in a glamorous airport bar (back when such things existed) on your way to an exotic locale. this alluring sipper arrives in a sexy, curvy glass. it’s a well-balanced blend of aged rum and pineapple gomme, a sophisticated sort of simple syrup that adds a silky mouth feel that gets even more viscous as the sandy-colored liquid slowly melts into the coconut water ice cubes. 727 S.E. Washington St., 503-235-8180, beakerandflask.com — Audrey Van Buskirk

Venetian Spritzer at Bar Avignon: is aperol the new campari? it’s something worth considering while sipping this fresh-for-summer, gorgeously hued drink, as brightly glowing as a tangerine. a careful mix of sparkling wine and soda lightens the gently bitter, spicy italian liqueur and a slab of orange freshens it all up. the slightly tingling result tastes mellow but serious, ideal for lazy yet important summer conversation. it won’t transport you to the canals of Venice, but bar avignon’s outdoor seating offers an entertaining view of the urban carnival along southeast Division. 2138 S.E. Division St., 503-517-0808, baravignon.com — Audrey Van Buskirk

Piña Colada at Teardrop: once a cocktail at portland’s most esoteric bar moves off the everchanging menu, it rarely gets a repeat performance. there are just too many other great drinks coming down the pipeline. but this summer the team brought back its wildly popular piña colada, which was a smash hit last year. “i think people would crucify us if we didn’t,” owner/mixologist Daniel shoemaker says. built on housemade coconut cream made from fresh

Gin Julius at Saucebox: the orange Julius is something of a throwback—started in the 1920s! Official drink of the 1964 World’s Fair! — but the taste is pretty timeless. orange juice is sweetened and blended up with ice, then given a creamy base with milk and vanilla. but according to the cocktail-friendly downtown restaurant saucebox, it’s missing something: gin. their “gin Julius” cocktail turns this mall-stand favorite into a decidedly grown-up option. Finely crushed iced is mixed up with gin, almond liqueur, lemon, vanilla and a touch of cream, poured into a glass with some orange syrup and topped with mint and a dollop of marmalade. the strong floral notes of gin stand up to the creamy, citrus-scented cocktail, giving you that classically refreshing creamsicle taste with an adult kick. 214 S.W. Broadway, 503-241-3393, saucebox.com — Deena Prichep

Sangria Popsicle at Country Cat: montavilla’s country cat specializes in giving the farm-totable treatment to southern standbys. and they apply the same approach to their sangria popsicles. a good zinfandel is sweetened and lightened up a bit, then mixed with citrus and a smattering of seasonal fruit — depending on the harvest schedule you might end up with blackberries, blueberries, raspberries or peaches. the fruit is cut small, mixed with the sweetened wine and set into snow cone cups, then given a classic popsicle stick for a handle. Freeze overnight and, according to owner Jackie sappington, “the next day, they’re summertime.” a great way to cool off after strolling through montavilla’s First Friday (though, sadly, the olcc prevents you from taking your sangria-sicle with you on your stroll). 7937 S.E. Stark St., 503-408-1414, thecountrycat.net — Deena Prichep

Blended Margaritas at Sunshine Tavern: the hypnotic

Jelly Beer at Whiskey Soda Lounge: the brits are famous for

rotation of a slushy margarita machine promises to deliver equal parts booze, ice crystals and pure summer refreshment. but sadly, what it usually ends up delivering is bottom-shelf booze and sweet ’n’ sour mix made of artificial flavoring and high-fructose corn syrup. luckily, there’s the slushy margarita machine in southeast portland’s sunshine tavern filled with nothing more than sauza silver tequila, simple syrup, water and fresh-squeezed lime juice. the mixture spins and freezes into that familiar slushy texture, with the kick of good booze and real citrus. served with a salted rim, of course. next up for sunshine: the slushy daiquiri. 3111 S.E. Division St., 503-688-1750, sunshinepdx.com — Deena Prichep

enjoying their beer at room temperature, which seems a bit hard to swallow (especially during the dog days of summer). but in thailand things are taken to the other extreme, with jelly beer (or, as i like to call it, the beer slurpee). southeast portland’s Whiskey soda lounge has imported two machines from thailand that freeze and jiggle bottles of beer (in this case, 22-ounce singhas). place your order, and you can watch your beer being shaken and frozen as you wait, yielding a slushy-textured pale lager in just seven minutes. extra long straw included. 3131 S.E. Division St., 503-232-0102, whiskeysodalounge.com — Deena Prichep photograph by ranDy l. rasmussen

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urban wIneS

where To buy our favorITe urban wIneS

2010 Division Wine Making Company Rosé of Pinot Noir ($17)

2010 Division Wine Making Company Rosé of Pinot Noir ($17) e&r Wine shop storyteller Wines

you haven’t lived until you’ve tasted the very palest of dry pink rosés, such as this debut from portland’s next “it” label. if you’re a numbers person, consider these: 70 percent footpressed fruit; 60 percent stainless steel; 40 percent neutral oak; just 56 cases. that all adds up to: pillow-soft texture, clean minerality, haunting notes of crushed rose petal, thirstquenching lemon-lime finish — and you’d better run out and snag a bottle before it’s gone. the charming young vintners, thomas and kate monroe, work at wineries out in the valley but live in inner southeast portland. taste their brand-new rosé at le pigeon or little bird and stay tuned for news of Division’s urban wine pub, slated to open in town next spring. divisionwinemakingcompany.com — Katherine Cole

2009 Fausse Piste “Les Garçons” Columbia Valley Grenache ($40) Fausse piste Winery 2009 Helioterra Columbia Valley Syrah ($20) e&r Wine shop Fred meyer hawthorne and tualatin mt. tabor Fine Wines new seasons markets arbor lodge, concordia, happy Valley Vino Whole Foods market bridgeport, hollywood, tanasbourne

2009 Fausse Piste “Les Garçons” Columbia Valley Grenache ($40)

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the label art — aubrey beardsley’s 1894 gently mocking illustration of dour French waiters — sets the tone for this wine: it’s fun (bold red color, ripe juicy palate of cherry-strawberry jam), with an undercurrent of gravity. gonzo winemaker and professional chef Jesse skiles (also of owen roe winery) allowed the young fruit from rocky stoneridge Vineyards in othello, Wash., to express its exuberance. the resulting combination of heat and sweet spice makes the drinker desperate for a barbecue-sauce-slathered side of pork. at press time, Fausse piste’s new winery/boîte was scheduled to open this month at southeast sixth and ash, next door to the J&m cafe. faussepiste.com — Katherine Cole

2009 Helioterra Columbia Valley Syrah ($20) the true test of a vintner’s worth is the wine that didn’t go according to plan. like this syrah. harvest came on fast in Washington’s columbia Valley: the fruit was superripe, super-early — while

itinerant urban winemaker anne hubatch was at her grandmother’s funeral. “sometimes life takes priority over the wines,” hubatch shrugs. her strategy: co-ferment the fruit with a bit of viognier to bring a floral component to the nose and use a bit more new oak (34 percent) than she typically would to smooth out the texture. the result is a deep-ruby gem with intoxicating aromatics and dripping-ripe notes of blackberry and blueberry pie; a peppery, smoky finish makes this a done deal with steaks off the grill. sure, this isn’t typical of hubatch’s more restrained style of winemaking, but it is masterful nonetheless. taste it around town at corkscrew Wine bar, cheese bar, noble rot, park kitchen or st. Jack. helioterrawines.com — Katherine Cole

photograph by motoya nakamura

2010 Pappas Wine Co. Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc ($16)

2009 Vincent EolaAmity Hills Pinot Noir ($24) “i don’t want candied,

in their northwest industrial District shared winery space, husband-and-wife team athena pappas and stewart boedecker produce elegant and refined pinot noir, old-vine pinot gris and rosé under the boedecker cellars label. it would be wrong to deem their pappas Wine co. label less serious, but there certainly is an element of exuberance in these bottles. you can taste this fresh, steely, nectarine-tinged blanc straight from the tap at Irving Street Kitchen in the pearl (above), as well as at paley’s place, park kitchen, portobello Vegan trattoria and Farm cafe. but you’ll also find it at casual joints such as russell street bar-b-Que, hot lips pizza (hawthorne), crow bar and tazza cafe, where it fits the bill just as well. boedeckercellars.com — Katherine Cole

fruity, glossy wine. i want a savory component,” says Vincent Fritzsche, program manager at psu’s professional Development center by day, downtown winemaker by night. “i like earthiness. i like mushroominess. i like texture. so i left this on the skins for about three weeks.” the result of all that skin contact: an unfiltered pinot noir reminiscent of a soft forest floor, crushed red raspberries, blood orange and pine needles. it’s a deliciously rustic wine from a metropolitan vintner; its only hint of opulence is the hint of spice from a single new-oak barrel (the remaining barrels were neutral). snap up this limited release before it disappears, or sip it at ciao Vito, nel centro, tabla, southpark or Wildwood. vincentwinecompany.com — Katherine Cole

2010 Pappas Wine Co. Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc ($16) cork Fred meyer hollywood West market of choice burlingame, West linn any QFc strohecker’s Vino Wine seller 2009 Vincent Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir ($24) blackbird Wine shop city market e&r Wine shop Foster & Dobbs great Wine buys John’s market liner & elsen new seasons markets arbor lodge, concordia, happy Valley, hawthorne, raleigh hills, sellwood pastaworks hawthorne and mississippi storyteller Wines Vino Vinopolis Whole Foods market hollywood & tanasbourne Woodstock Wine & Deli

walkabout main street vancouver

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La Culture Botega Pop

Mint Tea

[ Venture north to find obscure sodas, Moroccan necessities and brownie sandwiches ] There’s no doubt that downtown Vancouver is having a By GrAnT BuTLEr PhoToGrAPhy By BriAn FEuLnEr

renaissance. Cool shops have opened up around beautiful Esther Short Park, where people gather to enjoy its fountains and bell tower. A new convention center and hotel are infusing the area with tourist cash. And interesting restaurants are serving up everything from Mexican fare to gourmet cupcakes. Just north of downtown, though, there’s a fascinating pocket of cool businesses that so far cater to a mostly local clientele. Along a stretch of Main Street spanning from McLoughlin at the south end and Fourth Plain to the north, there are seven blocks of interesting restaurants, shops and coffeehouses that will make you wonder why this enclave of Vancouver doesn’t get more notice.

Mint Tea

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Mint Tea

4th plain Blvd. W. 25th st. Main st.

1

W. 21st st. 2 3

W. 20th st.

E. 20th st. 4 5

Mcloughlin Blvd.

Starting at the north, pop by 1 Je t’aime Bakery (2413 Main St., Vancouver; 360-597-3511; ilovejetaime.com), a walk-up window where you order from a display case filled with flaky French pastries and sweet treats like double-stacked brownies wedged together with a layer of thick chocolate ganache. Grab a cookie and a coffee to fuel your explorations, or buy an artisan baguette to tote along on a picnic later at nearby Fort Vancouver national historic Site. Moving down Main Street, pop into 2 Mint tea (2014 Main St., Vancouver; 360-699-4991; mintteaimports.com), a little piece of Tangier tucked incongruously into a woodsy-looking Craftsman house. This import shop/cafe sells Mediterranean

old Glory Antiques clothing, accessories, tagines and even rose water dispensers for freshening hands after dinner. During quiet afternoons, get a pot of sweetened Moroccan mint tea and unwind in one of the cozy dining areas. At night, expect things to get more lively, with diners coming in for dishes like citrus-stuffed game hens and phyllo pies stuffed with vegetables. Check the website for special events like belly dances, cooking classes and drumming circles held out front on nights with a full moon (the next one is July 15). if you love antique kitchen ephemera, 3 old glory antiques (2000 Main St., Vancouver; 360-906-8823) is a treasure trove. Like many antique malls, vendor stalls are stuffed to the point of sensory overload, but having patience yields rewards. There are collections of vintage recipe booklets, like a collection of 500 salads (you read that right, five hundred) from the 1940s. There are also scores of

La Botega

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Pop Culture cookie jars in the shapes of bears, pigs, snowmen, roosters, squirrels, owls, schoolhouses and thatch-roofed cottages. All they need is a home and a batch of fresh cookies to have a new life. Just across the street, there’s an absolute must for fans of unusual soda pop: 4 pop Culture (1929 Main St., Vancouver; 360-750-1784; drinkpopculture.me). This large storefront is home to a gourmet hot dog shop that also specializes in small-batch and hard-to-find sodas like hammer & Sickle Lemonade and Bubble up, a lemon-lime drink that’s common back East, but rarely seen on the West Coast. order a bottle of something you

wouldn’t normally try, plus a fully-loaded hot dog like the Pecos Bill, with barbecue sauce, blue cheese and bacon, or the Speedy Gonzales, a hot dog wrapped in a tortilla that’s stuffed with Fritos, nacho cheese, salsa and sour cream. if that concoction sounds like something only a teenager would be brave enough to try, there’s a reason. Pop Culture is one of Vancouver’s most-welcoming all-ages venues, and on weekend evenings, young bands try out new material on the shop’s ample stage. Before leaving, don’t miss the unusual bathroom, which has walls covered with comic book and super hero inspired drawings, plus what could be the truest piece of graffiti ever written: “The Six Million Dollar Man is worth the six million!”

Wrap up your Main Street sojourn at

5 la Bottega (1905 Main St., Vancouver;

360-571-5010; labottegafoods.com). At night, it’s a restaurant that locals love for its italian bruschetta, northwest-inspired crab cakes and old-school pasta dishes like penne alla vodka. But the big draw is the carefully curated selection of specialty goods, including unusual imported mustards, hard-to-find wine and gourmet pastas for cooking at home. And if you do plan that Fort Vancouver picnic, the deli counter is where you’ll find things like gourmet olives, charcuterie, artisan cheese, hummus and pasta salad. £

department head good cheese [ Queso de Oveja, Black Sheep Creamery, Adna, Wash. ] By uP hErE or BELoW

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Until recently, if you were looking for a good sheep’s milk cheese, spanish manchego was one of the only choices at portland cheese counters. and locally produced sheep’s milk NAME: Queso de oveja cheese from oregon or Washington did is not exist.time But of To simply wine, this a slow MILK: raw sheep’s milk Body Sans XLarge: read Karen Brooks’ piece on in the past few years, a numberyear. of regional producers have Winemakers have either defrom the gregorys’ farm to dish up— some stellar examples, ranging from fresh the phenomenon of breakfast begun in Portland buted their big releases before the AGE AND LOOK: three- to ricotta to lovely bloomy-rinded gems and delicious aged namely that lots of people leave their houses 4-pound dusty-beige wheels, holidays, or they’re holding off untommes. aged at least 3 months til guard later. is Black sheep early in the morning to wait in long lines to one of my favorites of this new FLAVOR: Buttery-rich with notes But chat with and he’ll creamery’s Queso de oveja, literally “cheese ofKennedy sheep.” one eat real breakfast, not coffee and a bran mufof bright tartness of the more recent offerings from Black sheep’s Brad and have plenty of recommendations DRINK WITH: get into fin the spirit — I was mystified as to why people would meg gregory, theeject Queso de oveja intended to resemble forisbottles to ward off the chill that with a spanishthemselves rioja. idiazábal, a less commonly known spanish sheep’s from their beds and wait in line to eat someclings wet and mistymilk to the last days WHY WE LIKE THIS CHEESE: a bold, cheese made in the Basque region of spain. “We make of winter. Every month he s to wine, one else’s food.itsBreakfast to me seemscheese intimate, locally made standout that gives we likeatomeal eat ourselves,” Brad says, “and we love this is a slow time of year. Winemakspanish brethren run for their cheeses.” youashare onlymoney with your closest kin. Notspanish intimate in the have eitherQueso debuted their big reAVAILABILITY: cheese Bar, Foster & though similar in texture anders appearance, de oveja peignoir-wearing-breakfast-in-bed sense, butand rather in the leasesrespects. before the holidays, or they’re its spanish cousin differ in other Where idiazdobbs, new seasons fixed-by-and-served-to-cranky-people-with-messy-hair-andoff until later. ábal’s flavors tend toward nuttyholding and earthy, Queso de oveja shines with a soft, lemony sharpness that turns warm and toasty on the finish. I find Queso de oveja more complex and By GraNT BuTLEr / PhoToGraPh By BETh NaKamura By TamI Parr multilayered than idiazábal. plus, Black sheep’s masterful PhoToGraPh By rendition is a satisfying reminder that I can now indulge in roSS WILLIam hamILToN sheep’s milk cheese made right in my own backyard. £

pubcrawl

[ 10 great brews, in cans. No kidding ]

Used to be, you could judge a beer on looks alone. Shiny aluminum cans contained cheap suds, while craft beer was sold in capped glass bottles, or perhaps champagne carafes sealed with corks and cages. The message was as clear as the packaging: Glass equals quality. No longer. Purists may thumb their noses at the can, but the crushable container now contains some of their favorite craft brews, hailing from humble brewpubs and regional breweries alike. And not a moment too soon. Come summertime this lightweight container proves its mettle as the perfect package. Shatterproof, easily chillable and able to keep beer fresher than bottles — and with no tinny taste, thanks to a water-based polymer lining — cans are ideal for transporting suds in the sunny outdoors. The reason it has taken craft brewers so long to cotton to cans is cost. Traditionally, canning has been a high-volume process, with filling machines cranking out tens of thousands of cases of beer daily.

By JoShUA M. BerNSTeiN PhoToGrAPhy By Mike dAviS

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pubcrawl cont.

“Best in Show” “Double Gold-Awarded Top Vodka” – San Francisco International Spirits Competition “★★★★, Highly Recommended” – Spirit Journal, Rating by Paul Pacult 50

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Add to that the millions of bucks that such machines cost, and you needed to be Anheuser-Busch to afford the investment. To bring cans to small-fry brewers, Calgary-based Cask Brewing Systems developed a two-container, hand-canning system (the company also manufactures an automated canning system) in 1999. one of the earliest adopters was dale katechis, owner of oskar Blues Brewery in Lyons, Colo. Though canning first struck katechis as laughable, he realized that aluminum was better suited for his outdoorsy fan base. With cans, it was easier to pack beer in and out. Who wanted to tote heavy glass to a campsite? in November 2002, the brewery began canning. it hasn’t stopped. And what began as oskar Blues’ lark has become a full-fledged revolution. More than 100 craft breweries countrywide, including oregon standouts such as Caldera Brewing and Fort George Brewery + Public house, now package their brews in the long-maligned metal vessel. With that in mind, we tasted through dozens of six-packs to find the best canned brews for your summer outings. here are our picks for the top10 cans worthy of your cooler.

Fort George Brewery + Public House Vortex IPA When the Astoria brewery began canning earlier this year, it opted for 16-ounce vessels filled with a rich, equally outsize elixir boasting a bright bouquet of citrus and pine. Though there’s plenty of grapefruit and sticky caramel on the palate, the iPA remains megaquaffable.

21st Amendment Brewery Hell or High Watermelon Wheat Beer To create this spring-summer seasonal, these San Franciscan canning converts chuck fresh watermelon purée into the fermenting suds. This imbues the cloudy, straw-blond beer with a subtly fruity aroma and a lick of sweetness that plays well with its crisp, tart character.

Caldera Brewing Ashland Amber Southern oregon-brewed Ashland Amber pours a vibrant auburn, showcasing flavors of caramel and fresh-baked bread. The taste presents a balanced bill of biscuits, malt and citric hops, creating a simple, snappy refreshment that’s an easy-drinking change of pace.

Big Sky Brewing Co. Scape Goat Many pale ales masquerade as massively bitter iPAs. Not so Scape Goat, the english-style pale from Montana’s Big Sky. The nose is sweet biscuit and citrus, with a sturdy caramel backbone keeping grapefruit bitterness in check. At just 4.7 percent ABv, this is an all-day drinker.

Oskar Blues Mama’s Little Yella Pils Unlike so many cut-rate pilsners, the Colorado concoction is made with 100 percent malt and spicy Saaz hops, resulting in an energetic brew offering a nose of lemon and freshly mown lawn. Mama’s is a prickly, thirstquenching pleasure.

Buckbean Brewing Company Black Noddy Lager don’t be fooled by this reno brew: despite the engine-oil tint, the Bavarian-style schwarzbier drinks downright smooth and rich, with a tidbit of roast and nuts on the nose and a brisk finish. it’s a fine fit for sausages, burgers and other grilled goodies.

Maui Brewing Co. CoCoNut Porter Befitting its tropical roots, the hawaii brewery constructs its porter with toasted coconut. The sweet, nutty coconut struts its stuff on the nose, as well as on the first silky, chocolaty swig. it would make a great mate to campfire s’mores.

New Belgium Brewing Ranger IPA The Colorado brewery’s first hoppy brew is a doozy: ranger pours golden yellow, with a sweet aroma that’s citrusy and certifiably pungent. But ranger drinks smooth and balanced, boasting a biscuity body and flavors of grapefruit and pine resin.

Fearless Brewing Company Scottish Ale About 30 miles southeast of Portland sits this estacada-based brewpub, which cocoons its Scottish Ale in pint cans. The darkish-amber brew has an appealing nutty, malty aroma that leads to flavors of smoke and brown sugar. it’d also make a great partner to grilled grub. Anderson Valley Brewing Company Summer Solstice Cerveza Crema Searching for a sunny-day beer? Try this coppery Northern California beer with a creamy mouth feel. on the palate, expect a medium body, lots of caramel malts and a lick of citrus and sweetness that keeps Solstice compulsively sippable. it’s a lawnmowerworthy cream ale.

where to Shop Great canned beers are as close as your neighborhood bottle shop or beer-friendly market. Look for our picks at the following places: The BeerMongers: 1125 S.e. division St., 503-234-6012; thebeermongers.com Saraveza: 1004 N. killingsworth St., 503-206-4252; saraveza.com Belmont Station: 4500 S.e. Stark St., 503-232-8538; belmont-station.com The Hop & Vine: 1914 N. killingsworth St., 503-954-3322; thehopandvine.com Sheridan Fruit Co.: 409 S.e. Martin Luther king Jr. Blvd., 503-236-2114; sheridanfruit.com Whole Foods: visit wholefoods.com for locations

New Seasons: visit newseasonsmarket. com for locations Zupan’s: visit zupans. com for locations £

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Main St

of Oregon’s First City at the First City Celebration an Art, Wine, Beer and Music festival on Main Street. Last year’s event attracted over 3,000 visitors.

Oregon City Antique Fair

First Fridays Celebrate Commerce and Culture on the First Friday of the month throughout summer. Downtown is alive with great restaurants, shops, artists, and music street side.

May - Oct

5 to 8 pm

8th Street Farmers Market Join us at the downtown market for live music, great food, and 20-25 local artisan food vendors every Wednesday.

June 1st - Oct 12th 3 to 7 pm First City Celebration Celebrate the identity and heritage

➤

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2-3

July 30th 11 am to 9 pm

Historic Oregon City is a great place to shop, dine and visit.

13th st

1

9th St

7th St

St

1

Main St

16th st

O.C. Bridge

6th

Welcome Downtown

99E

McLoughlin Blvd

Oregon City’s Chamber of Commerce is pleased to present the 16th annual open air antique fair welcoming to downtown more than 80 vendors with antiques, collectables and memorabilia.

August 28th 8 am to 4 pm Downtown Car Show Main Street will be bumper-to-bumper with more than 250 cars, motorcycles and trucks and more than 3,000 visitors for this special event.

Sept 17th 7 am to 4 pm Downtown’s events are free and open to the public. Parking is free and convenient on festival days. Let’s meet on Main Street for a summer of fun in Oregon City. Visit http://downtownoregoncity.org/ to learn more and sign up for email updates.

Oregon City Marketplace

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wine shop - wine bar local art live music wine tastings small plates desserts Winestock is a combination wine shop + wine bar, celebrating 5 years in OC. Weekly wine tastings and 25+ wines by the glass pair beautifully with small plates including Jamon Iberico, stuffed peppers, artisan cheeses and chocolate cake. At Winestock, it's about the wine experience. A beautiful combination of wine at the bar or a selection of wines for drinking at home. Open at 3pm, Monday thru Saturday 820 Main Street, Suite B, Oregon City, OR 503.636.WINE (9463) www.winestockoc.com

Cypress Restaurant & Bar Experience something different in Oregon City! With an eclectic menu of Greek, Lebanese and Indian food, Cypress offers exotic cuisine and specialty martinis at exceptional prices. Great ambience & casual elegance! Our Oasis Room offers an intimate space for private parties, rehearsal dinners and corporate meetings. Catering available. Mon-Thurs 11 am - 9 pm Fri. 11 am - 10 pm, Sat. 5 pm - 10 pm 820 Main Street, Suite D, Oregon City, OR 503 387-5914 cypressoregoncity.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Maria Price at 503.294.4126 or mprice@oregonian.com

selects / viognier

[ A Rogue River road trip fueled by wine and cheese ] ah, the mighty rogue river Basin. Whitewater, placid pools and towering cliffs hemming in narrow canyons. salmon and steelhead running the river below; rocky trails winding through old-growth forests above. the charming towns of Jacksonville, ashland and grants pass. the orchards heavy with pears and cherries. and the vineyards. as a summer getaway, southern oregon delivers. it’s reliably sunny. it offers the astounding sight of crater lake and the cerebral succor of the oregon shakespeare Festival. and there’s a whole different world of wine down there. Where fragile, cool-climate pinot noir monopolizes the north, the heat of the south favors lusty Bordeaux blends and savage syrahs. Why brave the fierce rapids or the hot, perilous hiking trails when you could be kicking back at the region’s scenic tasting rooms and sipping this stuff? By katherine cole photography By motoya nakamura

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White’s Country Meats

And so, for this summer outings issue of MIX, we wine panelists stepped up to do our part. We bravely convened at Cheese Bar, the wonderfully fragrant Southeast Portland lair of cheesemonger Steve Jones, to take a virtual trip to “the state of Jefferson� (as our southerly secessionists put it). Our mode of travel? Our taste buds. From Pholia Farm in the hamlet of Rogue River — on the banks of the river, halfway between Grants Pass and Gold Hill — we sampled the semisoft and subtle Pleasant Creek, a raw-milk aged goat cheese. From La Mariposa in the town of Lowell, southeast of Eugene, we tasted the firm raw-milk cow cheese, Pleasant Hill. (Apparently, many Oregon cheeses are “pleasant.�) And from Rogue Creamery in Central Point, between Gold Hill and Medford, we noshed on the heady Oregon Blue. Which southern Oregon wines go with cheeses like these? Certainly not the dry, powerful reds. Cheese needs a wine that can work with its mouth-coating texture, and counterbalance its salty tang with sweet fruit. Fortunately, the region has its own signature white that serves the purpose: viognier. With its abundantly fruity perfume and palate, this is a wine that can tango with cheese.

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France’s Rhône and Oregon’s Rogue River valleys have viognier in common. It’s the white counterpart to syrah (the most prominent Rhône red grape), all

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PANELISTS STEVE JONES, owner/monger, Cheese Bar, cheese-bar.com MIMI MARTIN, co-owner, The Wine and Spirit Archive educational center, wineandspiritarchive.com MICHAEL RHODES, owner, Vine Merchants, vinemerchants.com RAECHEL SIMS, wine director, Bastas Trattoria, bastastrattoria.com GRANT BUTLER, critic-at-large, The Oregonian & MIX KATHERINE COLE, wine columnist, The Oregonian & MIX

flowers and peaches and power in contrast to syrah’s bacon and pepper and power. In fact, viognier is sometimes blended into syrah-based Rhône reds to enhance their perfume and brighten their color. But viognier has its drawbacks. On the vine, this grape often doesn’t achieve its full array of flavors until it’s beyond ripe. The result is too much sugar and not enough acidity, resulting in a wine with an overwhelmingly alcoholic heat. In the past, we’ve noticed this problem in viogniers from the southern part of the state, so we steeled ourselves for big bruisers in the 14-plus-percent alcohol-by-volume range when we began to blind-taste through an array of ’nyays from the region. But when we unveiled our winning wines, we were shocked to find that three came in at less than 13 percent alcohol by volume — impressive

THE WINNING WINES We tasted 12 southern Oregon viogniers blind; they ranged from the 2007 through the 2009 vintages. We concluded that we liked the youngest wines best.

up-anD-coming

for any wine, let alone viognier. I later learned that southern Oregon vintners have been experimenting with cooler-climate grapevine clones such as the “Geneva” variety, which reaches ripeness at lower sugar levels, in cooler sites. This is great news for those of us who crave the feminine charms of a viognier on a hot summer afternoon but don’t want to deal with a post-facto headache. Of course, the traditionally big viognier has its place, too (so long as it’s well-chilled, especially in the heat of summer). Our favorite wine of the night was 14.5 percent alcohol by volume and boasted the accompanying silky texture and layers of sweet, spicy flavor that heady viogniers have in spades. We loved the way it tasted with food and would serve this expressive white alongside dinner — just not as an aperitif. Usually, when we blind-taste for MIX, it’s with the end goal of finding wines that are available in Portland-area retail stores. This month, we made an exception — because we wanted to encourage you to travel to the source. All of the following wines can be specialordered through their tasting rooms, but only one is available in local bottle shops. The best place to taste these sensual whites is in their respective tasting rooms, as part of a sightseeing tour of the southern part of the state. We’ve done it before, and now that we’ve been turned on to the latest crop of viogniers, we’re plotting our next return trip. In the meantime, we have our cheese, and our viogniers and our memories of that wild river in the sun-soaked south.

2008 Quady North “Steelhead Run Vineyard” Applegate Valley Viognier ($18.75) Aromatic and enticing, with flowers, peaches and tropical fruit on the nose, this wine was in turns satisfying and perplexing on the palate; our tasting notes ranged from “sake” to “cucumber” to “pine” to “cough syrup.” But its sunny, stone-fruit quality won us over in the end: We liked the way it complemented our array of cheeses, and Grant Butler suggested it would be killer with a salad of melon and prosciutto. So who had made this unusual wine? The answer: Herb Quady, winemaker at Troon Vineyard south of Grants Pass, and former associate winemaker at California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard. The scion of the dessert-wine and vermouth-producing Quadys of California, Herb runs Quady North as a small side label; this viognier came from his third vintage. On the cobbly banks of the Applegate River, Steelhead Run Vineyard is a cool site where the late-ripening Geneva clone develops complex flavors gradually: The alcohol is a mere 12.5 percent. We’ll be keeping an eye on this Quady guy.

classic aperitiF

2008 Valley View “Anna Maria” Applegate Valley Viognier ($22) The Wisnovsky family planted their first Applegate Valley vineyard in 1972, making them among Oregon’s wine pioneers. They’ve had plenty of time, then, to determine the best site for their viognier vines. Over the years, second-generation brotherowners Mark and Mike Wisnovsky have focused their attention on their own Applegate Valley estate and neighboring vineyards — cooler sites where viognier achieves ripeness without reaching stratospheric sugar levels. The result: a fully flavorful wine, at just 12.9 percent alcohol. Michael Rhodes was struck by the succulent citrus, guava, floral, honeysuckle and spice notes of the “Anna Maria.” Mimi Martin described its assets as “peach, litchi, mango and a hint of stone.” Steve Jones found “peach, apricot, rose petal and honey” in his glass. And we all agreed that the delicate spritz to the mouth feel made this a shoo-in for cocktail hour.

croWD pleaser

2009 Bridgeview Southern Oregon Viognier ($15) Since 1986, Bridgeview has been a reliable source for bargain wines on local supermarket shelves. But this delicate viognier convinced us that a detour to this Cave Junction family winery (conveniently near the otherworldly Oregon Caves National Monument) might be in order, especially if we were traveling with an oaky-wine lover. According to winemaker René Eichmann, this viognier saw just four months of neutral oak; the exposure was just enough to accent it with honey, marshmallow and “Baroque spices,”as Rhodes put it, and to underscore the alluring fruit notes of mirabelle plum, apricot and pineapple. Again, we approved of the unusually low alcohol — 12.5 percent — and felt that the light body, the gentle oak influence and the affordable price would make this a good party wine. The menu for such a party? Butler and Martin suggest gazpacho, followed by something off the grill.

Best overall

2009 Pebblestone Cellars “Ellis Vineyards Block 9” Rogue Valley Viognier ($19) OK, enough with the fixation on lower-alcohol viognier. The fact is, most viognier lovers — you know who you are — want their glass of ’nyay to be full-throttle. At 14.5 percent alcohol, the Pebblestone Cellars delivered fully fleshed-out viognier flavor and body, balanced with proper acidity levels. The layers of aroma included nectarine, spice, apple blossom and honeysuckle; the layers of flavor included Asian pear, citrus rind, coconut, ginger and lemon grass. Its lively texture made it a good candidate for pairing with cheese and even cured meats, and Jones approvingly noted, “This one was the most French.” Raechel Sims, a native of Grants Pass, gave it the final seal of approval: “Mmmm,” she said after burying her nose in her glass. “This smells like home.”

 online eXtra: Find out how to get your hands on these great wines at miXpDX.com

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eat here / mcminnville

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Community Plate

[ Eat, sip and repeat ] By GRANT BuTLeR / PhOTOGRAPhy By FAITh CAThCART

ears ago, whenever the subject of McMinnville came up, the talk would inevitably turn to turkeys. The small mid-Willamette Valley city was the heart of Oregon’s thriving turkey industry, and its farmers provided the Thanksgiving centerpiece for most Oregonians. But what once was a $3 million business at its peak in the 1960s faded away by the early 1990s, as the industry consolidated operations in other states. The only remnant of McMinnville’s feathered past is the annual Turkey Rama festival, which fills downtown with live music, a parade and the 8K Turkey Trot during the second weekend of July. And

the turkeys? They only show up as grilled drumsticks. Luckily, as one door closed, another was opening: The old farms folded at the same time Oregon’s wine industry was taking off. The hillsides along the Oregon 99W corridor between McMinnville and Newberg to the northeast now are covered with vineyards, and Oregon pinot noir has global cachet. So much, in fact, that the wine world heads to Linfield College each July for the International Pinot Noir Celebration, a three-day festival featuring winemakers from around the world that’s a guaranteed sellout. The area’s pinot-noir-soaked notoriety has propelled tourism and transformed McMinnville’s Northeast Third Street into what could very well be the most-interesting cross section of restaurants in the state. Much-loved

eat here / mcminnville cont.

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years ago, McMinnville was known for turkeys, not wine. But these days it’s surrounded by acres of vineyards and dozens of award-winning wineries, and with fine wine comes fine food. The town’s leafy Third Street has become a major wine country dining destination, complete with servers sporting neckties, rooftop patios and restaurants with a solid locavore ethic. At Community Plate, the new restaurant from Thistle chef eric Bechard, the meat for the bacon, ham and pork loin sandwich (bottom right) comes from the same pig, raised locally at Worden hill Farm.

places like Nick’s Italian Cafe and Bistro Maison have been joined recently by the critically acclaimed Thistle, creating a trio of destination restaurants that are worthy of the one-hour drive from Portland. But McMinnville’s historic downtown offers so much more beyond the marquee kitchens, making it a perfect day-trip destination for food discoveries. Getting to McMinnville early has

its rewards, starting with breakfast at the adorable Crescent Cafe (526 N.E. Third St.; 503-435-2655). On weekends, servers at the upscale cafe get all duded up with neckties, but whatever day you eat there, you’re in for elegant flavors. The kitchen treats eggs and hash with the sort of reverence that fancy restaurants reserve for four-star dinners. Brandied orange French toast is made with bread that’s baked in-house daily (you can take

a whole loaf to go for just $5), and there are heartier dishes such as chicken hash and creamed chicken with eggs — all made with local ingredients, right down to the locally milled flour. If you don’t arrive in McMinnville until late morning and want something lighter for a pick-meup, there’s the same from-scratch aesthetic at Red Fox Bakery (328 N.E. Evans St.; 503-434-5098; redfoxbakery.com). This popular

pastry and coffee spot made some political waves earlier this year when it lobbied the Oregon Legislature to change an arcane law that made it illegal for bakeries to bake cookies without a separate business license. Good thing those cookies are legal now, particularly the coconut macaroons, which have a chewy texture and are big enough to share. They come on the side with any of the bakery’s sandwiches, which

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make great to-go lunches for picnicking in a nearby winery. If you want to eat lunch inside, there’s Community Plate (315 N.E. Third St.; 503687-1902; communityplate.com). This brand-new breakfast and lunch spot comes from Thistle chef eric Bechard, who wants to treat American diner fare with the same level of respect that fancier dishes get at his original restaurant. From the deviled eggs to the hand-cut fries, everything that’s served here is locally grown. But the executions are what make

simple sandwiches such as bacon, lettuce and beets or filbert butter and jam stand out. Both the pickled beets and the filbert butter are made on-site, showing how humble pickles and nut spreads can be elevated when made fresh. Another solid lunch option if the weather is cooperating is the Rooftop Bar at McMenamins Hotel Oregon (310 N.E. Evans St.; 503-4728427; mcmenamins.com), if only for the view. From the bar’s five-story perch, you get

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eat here / mcminnville cont.

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a dynamite 360-degree view of McMinnville and the surrounding Willamette Valley. Most of the menu is standard-issue McMenamins fare — Cajun tater tots, the blue cheese and bacon-heavy Captain Neon Burger — but when the sun is shining and you’ve got a pint of hoppy hammerhead ale in your hands, you won’t want to be anywhere else. you can’t come to McMinnville without getting in a little winery action, but you don’t have to venture far off Third Street to find unforgettable sips. Panther Creek Cellars (455 N.E. Irvine St.; 503-4728080; panthercreekcellars.com), which turns 25 this year, is just a few blocks north in what used to be an electric power plant. The tasting area is right next to the heart of the winery, among oak barrels and massive fermentation tanks, so depending on the timing of your visit, you may get an insider’s view of the winemaking process. On quieter days, you get a chance to pet Bailey, the winery’s new pooch in residence after tasting-room mascot Zooey passed away last winter. For a more in-depth look at Oregon wine, there’s the Willamette Valley Vineyards Wine Center (300 N.E. Third

St.; 503-883-9012; willamettevalleywinecenter. com). The sleek tasting room was created by one of Oregon’s leading pinot noir producers, and there are daily pourings of sustainable wines from Willamette Valley Vineyards as well as other area wineries. Between tastes, exhibits offer insights into sustainability practices at Oregon wineries, offering plenty of food for the brain. By now, it’s gotta be happy hour, and La Rambla Restaurant & Bar (238 N.E. Third St.; 503-435-2126; laramblaonthird. com) has a great one at its copper-topped bar. This Spanish restaurant specializes in tapas, with a dozen options priced between $1 and $6, including the signature fried green beans, beef and pork meatballs in smoky sofrito, garlic-chili shrimp, and crispy, fried potato wedges. To drink, there are cocktails made with infused spirits, like the Sugarloaf Manhattan, made with cranberry-infused bourbon — the best use of cranberries outside of Thanksgiving Day. No turkeys required. £

scene Our picks for what to eat where Review

Grain & Gristle big ten

Best farmers markets meals HigH Five

Underground ice cream

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Vivid, vibrant, super-fresh vegetables on the grill at Verde Cocina’s booth at the PSU farmers market, p67 PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

G R E A T

Escapes

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Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier The perfect little vacation resort. Ride the new Mt. Rainier Gondola to scenic views. Hike or bike from your door. Explore Mt. Rainier. Then soak in our pool and hot tub, or come to a bbq, bonfire or other evening event. Charming suites & (romantic) honeymoon cabin.

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Pouslbo Inn & Suites Poulsbo, WA Experience the Scandinavian heritage of the Norwegian Town of Poulsbo. Quaint shops, wonderful restaurants, and a picturesque waterfront. Stay at the Poulsbo Inn & Suites and enjoy our complimentary breakfast buffet, high speed internet, heated outdoor pool, and covered spa. Use this promotional code, “SUMMER20” and book online to save 20% off our Best Available Rate.

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The Resort at Skamania Cove Pronghorn Club & Resort Stay & Play starting at $299 Relax in our luxury lodging while golfing on our Signature Nicklaus course and dining in our 55,000 sq ft Clubhouse. Add a lesson at the Tour Academy, fly fishing or a spa treatment. We can customize any package to fit your needs! Stay & Play packages starting at $299.

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Washington Wine Country Getaway Giveaway Would you like to explore sunny vineyards with a winemaker, tour boutique wineries via horseback and dine alfresco style at a winemaker dinner? Enter to win our Wine Country Getaway Giveaway and savor the Yakima Valley – Washington’s Wine Country. Only a 3 hr. drive from Portland! Request your FREE Visitors Guide!

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scene

new review

Grain & Gristle

Why any wannabe restaurateur would want to name his or her place after something you customarily chew on, then spit out, is tough to figure. Maybe Ben Meyer, former co-owner of well-loved Ned Ludd, didn’t receive the bad restaurant names memo. For whatever reason, he charted himself an unnecessarily challenging path to success by naming his newish Northeast Portland restaurant/pub Grain & Gristle. The grain part is understandable enough. The beer selection is top-flight, with eight changing taps, curated by Upright Brewing’s Alex Ganum, one of Portland’s esteemed craft beer nerds. There are plenty of nondraft choices, too, along with distilled spirits, wine and local teetotalers’ favorite: house-made mineral water, plain or with hibiscus, calendula or tonic syrups.

If the emphasis on adult beverage consumption wasn’t plain enough from all the alcoholic offerings, the setup of the place is a dead giveaway. The big U-shaped bar dominates the woody space. Tables are relegated to bench-fronted walls and storefront windows that trace the perimeter of the room. The benches are hard, discouraging overlong visits. This was a master stroke of foresight because Grain & Gristle has been jammed since it opened, with waiting lists common at prime times. This brings us to the gristle, a figurative if unfortunate reference to food. On the credit side of the ledger, there hasn’t been any chewy connective tissue in any of the meat dishes I have tried here save for a small, inoffensive bit in the burger. Not a big deal. The big deal is this: If his work at Ned Ludd is indicative of his talent, chef Meyer has consciously chosen to underachieve behind the forgiving cloak of simplicity. With rare exception, the Grain & Gristle menu exemplifies the barrenness

of the new rusticism movement — the equally flawed opposite of overly complex, science-fair dishes offered up in the name of modernist cuisine. In both cases, the end result is food that disappoints. To some extent, Meyer compensates for the lack of effort and imagination by offering large portions at not-so-large prices. A clump of thin-cut onion rings ($4) was acceptable, though it pales in comparison to the outstanding version of the same dish at The Country Cat. Pork rinds ($4) with a beer is a no-lose proposition. Smoked kielbasa girded by warm potato and cabbage salad ($8) was just as billed, even if some of the fingerling potatoes weren’t cooked through. The roast beef, which was featured in a recent “2-fer” value deal that changes regularly, again was competent, though the horseradish sauce lacked any of the rhizome’s zing. And so on it goes — basic, uninspired fare that fails to kindle any fire for a return visit. For beer lovers looking for a maybe-I-should-eat-something nosh or fuel-up types for whom quantity + price is the only equation that matters, Grain & Gristle is evidently a top choice. For those who hold their meal hours in higher esteem, you may want to grab your gristle elsewhere. — MICHAeL C. ZUSMAN Grain & Gristle, 1473 N.E. Prescott St.; 503-298-5007; grainandgristle.com PHOTOGRAPHY BY FAITH CATHCART

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scene

BiG ten

Best Farmers Market Meals

beach shack. A satellite version of his east Burnside restaurant of the same name, it features authentic, bellyfilling, Hawaiian-style grub, brought to you by the forces behind Laurelhurst Market and Simpatica. Chow down on teriyaki chicken, kimchi fried rice with two fried eggs on top (a Dyer family recipe), vegetable curry made with whatever’s fresh at the market that day, and Loco Moco — a pile o’ pleasure with fried rice, a seared hamburger patty, shiitake mushroom gravy and two eggs over easy. “eat that and you’ll grow up to be a big Hawaiian boy like me,� Dyer says. ateohate.com Hollywood Farmers Market, 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturdays; hollywoodfarmersmarket.org

Shopping at the farmers market makes us hongry. Maybe it’s because we’re often there before we’ve even had breakfast, wandering around bleary-eyed and bed-headed. Or we’re arriving just in time for lunch, fresh off our bikes, stomachs vociferously growling. Or maybe it’s because of all that incredible produce, just begging to be cooked, and all the amazing smells coming from the food vendors’ stalls. Whatever the reason, it’s safe to say we’ve eaten our way through pretty much all of the markets around town, and we’ve singled out our 10 favorite, not-to-be-missed meals.

— KATHLeeN BAUeR

Ate-oh-Ate If you don’t have the scratch for a tropical vacation this summer (and who does, really?), head over to the Hollywood Farmers Market and feel the trade winds blow at Ben Dyer’s

bingo Sandwiches It’s hard to say what mad combos might spring from the crazy caldron of creativity that is the mind of David Barber at Bingo Sandwiches, but we know his BLT of the week will need

Ate-oh-Ate more than three initials to describe it. Look for market-fresh meats, veggies, his own Picklopolis Pickles and perhaps a fried pasture-raised WAG egg to make an appearance. Talk about a tower of power! Portland Farmers Market at PSU, 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays; portlandfarmersmarket.org — KATHLeeN BAUeR

Domo Domo Some people see religious icons in a grilled cheese sandwich or a pretzel. Sidney Ayers saw her calling in a Japanese pancake. Called okonomi-

yaki, it’s considered a comfort food in Japan and is found on dinner tables and in pubs all over that country. Plate-size and made from a batter containing flour, eggs and a Japanese mountain yam called nagaimo, it comes topped with bacon or vegetables for just $6. Add a side salad of sesame oil-laced seaweed or carrots and daikon and call it lunch. Find Domo Domo on Facebook and at Interstate Farmers Market, 3-5 p.m. Wednesdays; interstatefarmersmarket.com — KATHLeeN BAUeR PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

64

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Bingo Sandwiches enchanted Sun breakfast burritos Former encanto chef Michael Martinez offers hefty breakfast burritos with New Mexican attitude — fluffy eggs laced with green chiles, potatoes spiced with fresh sage and thick-cut bacon wedged into the center like a hidden treasure. The whole lot is wrapped up in a tortilla the size of a dinner plate with optional lip-tingling four-chile salsa available for a bit more heat. It’s hands-down the best breakfast for cool market mornings when you need a kick-start before braving the crowds. Portland Farmers Market at PSU, 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays; King Farmers Market, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays; portlandfarmersmarket.org — IVY MANNING

Feastworks Sausage Sandwich It’s certainly not a guarantee of success, but one of the reasons Feastworks’ sausage sandwiches are so excellent may just be that they began with an old-fashioned

65 love story. ethan Bisagna was working as a butcher at Clyde Common and met a kindred spirit in sous-chef Ashley Brown. Their love of good food got them talking about building a business, which led to building a life together. ethan recently left his post as head butcher at Laurelhurst Market to launch Feastworks with Ashley, selling their sausages and charcuterie at the Beaverton, Northwest Portland and Woodstock farmers markets. The latter two markets also offer hot sausage sandwiches like the Choripan — made with their Chistorra sausage, crusty French bread and piquant chimichurri sauce. Add a fried egg for $1 more. feastworks.com Northwest Portland Farmers Market, 3-7 p.m. Thursdays; portlandfarmersmarket.org Woodstock Farmers Market, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Sundays; woodstockmarketpdx.com — KATHLeeN BAUeR PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

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gloria’s Secret Canby Asparagus may lay claim to the biggest tamales, but the best I’ve run across are from Gloria’s Secret at the Beaverton Farmers Market. An offshoot of Gloria Vargas’ tiny Beaverton cafe, the booth offers incredible Salvadoran-style tamales, wrapped in a stunning banana leaf and as light as air yet filled with hearty ingredients like pork and chicken. There’s also a vegetarian version. All come with a colorful shower of fresh chopped cabbage, meltingly ripe chunks of fruit and a kickin’ tomato salsa. Beaverton Farmers Market, 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturdays; beavertonfarmersmarket.com — KATHLeeN BAUeR

you crave it fortnightly ‌ or even nightly. Maybe it’s the roasted seasonal vegetables, the creamy, garlicky tahini dressing, the spicy chile sauce. Whatever it is that makes the salad magically delicious, it always keeps us coming back for more. tastebudfarm.com Portland farmers markets (PSU, King, Pioneer Courthouse Square, Shemanski Park); portlandfarmersmarket.org Beaverton Farmers Market, 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturdays; beavertonfarmersmarket.com Hillsdale Farmers Market, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays; hillsdalefarmersmarket.com — DANIeLLe CeNTONI

tastebud It just wouldn’t be a farmers market without Tastebud’s rolling wood-fired oven cranking out pizzas, bagels and juicy lamb. The booth that gave birth to the brick-and-mortar restaurant on Southeast Milwaukie Avenue makes an appearance at no fewer than six area markets, which is a good thing because the wheat berry and garbanzo bean salad — a stalwart you can get by the bowl or tucked into a wood-fired pita — is flat-out addictive. There’s something in there that makes PHOTOGRAPH BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA

thai Mama This mama, Lisa Barba, uses local produce and meat vendors whenever possible, dishing out delicious curries, pad Thai, crab won tons and chicken satay sticks with homemade peanut sauce. But it’s her legendary homemade egg rolls that have marketgoers salivating in anticipation. Traditional Pork or Portabella Mushroom and Tofu are both

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winners. And for dessert — it doesn’t get much better than slick mango slices atop coconutty sweet rice. thaimamaeggrolls.com Montavilla Farmers Market, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays; montavillamarket.org — KATHLeeN BAUeR

Savory et Sweet Crepes Chris Douglas’ crepe menu is an ever-changing thing, but you can always count on eclectic yet spot-on combinations like the “Scary Good� — softly scrambled eggs, bacon, blue cheese, avocado, tomatoes and spinach. The Menagerie Plate (described as “the best lunch in the world� by two different customers) is a sampler of all sorts of delicious bites snuggled together on one plate — nuts, cheese, fresh fruit, bread slathered with hummus — and finished off with a mini sweet crepe. It’s perfect for grazers. crepenews.tumblr.com Lloyd Farmers Market, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays; lloydfarmersmkt.net Oregon City Farmers Market, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays; orcityfarmersmarket.com Hillsdale Farmers Market, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays; hillsdalefarmersmarket.com — KATHLeeN BAUeR

verde Cocina Local meats and produce, housemade corn tortillas and traditional Mexican fresh salsas made in a stone mortar are the hallmarks of Guanajuato-born chef Noe Garnica’s menu, so you’d expect his traditional menu of Mexican classics like fajitas, tacos and chilaquiles to offer something more — and they do. Namely, lots of sparkling fresh vegetables. The huevos rancheros are truly stellar — handmade corn tortillas slathered with mashed garbanzo and white beans, topped with farm-fresh fried eggs, crumbled cheese and house-made salsa, then showered with ribbons of Swiss chard and carrots plus anything else from the market that’s fresh and beautiful that morning. Health food never tasted so good. verdecocinamarket.com Portland Farmers Market at PSU, 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays; Pioneer Courthouse Square Farmers Market, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays; portlandfarmersmarket.org Lake Oswego Farmers Market, 8:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Saturdays; ci.oswego.or.us/Farmersmarket — LeSLIe COLe

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hiGh 5 / UnderGroUnd ice cream You already know where the ice cream shops are around town. And if you don’t, there’s good ol’ Google. But some of the city’s best frozen treats aren’t quite so easy to find. They’re tucked away in restaurants, bakeries and roving food trucks. While Salt and Straw, Cool Moon, Ruby Jewel and Rose’s all fly high on our radar, here are five places making amazingly delicious icy goodness that you must seek out this summer. And none require you to buy a fancy dinner first.

68

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blue Cheese Chocolate ice Cream at Pix Pâtisserie Created in the image of Pix Pâtisserie’s legendary Blue Cheese Truffle, this velvety Fourme d’Ambert-infused ice cream is shot through with a lusciously oozy 75 percent dark chocolate and caramel ganache. If you’ve got a serious yen and one scoop just won’t do, bring your monogrammed ice cream spoon to Pix’s 8th Annual Ice Cream Social on July 30 and tackle the fantastical Foghorn sundae — 22 scoops-withthe-works in a hollowed-out watermelon half. —JeN STeVeNSON 3402 S.E. Division St.; 503-232-4407 3901 N. Williams Ave.; 503-282-6539; pixpatisserie.com Coffee ice Cream at Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty Like a North Portland version of Ken’s Artisan Pizza — but without the lines — this neighborhood restaurant turns out gorgeous food,

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Pear-ginger italian ice at Oregon ice works OK, so they’re not technically ice cream, but we’ll make an exception for cartrepreneur Kevin Bell’s luscious sorbetlike treats. Bell yearned for the heat-beating Italian ices that were a summer staple growing up in Philadelphia, so he re-created them right here in Portland, incorporating the finest local ingredients into flavors like Chocolate Hazelnut, Sour Cherry and a Pear Ginger crafted with Willamette Valley Bosc pears and chunks of sweet-spicy candied ginger. The menu of eight to 10 flavors changes weekly, so don’t be surprised if a newfound favorite suddenly disappears. Don’t worry, it’ll be back — especially if you ask for it. New this summer is the quirky Pistachio Mustachio — pistachio ice with fleur de sel and a fake mustache on the side. —JeN STeVeNSON 3221 S.E. Division St., Portland; 503880-8229; oregonice.com

Pistachio ice Cream at Alder Pastry and Dessert Since this east Burnside sweet spot opened in March, sugar seekers have come for the exquisite miniature cakes that rival desserts from a Left Bank pâtisserie. But the real find is the gelato, 10 rotating flavors including the city’s best version of pistachio, an earthy, salty-sweet revelation (chef-owner Matthew Zack makes it from finely ground nuts steeped in cream, not prepared pistachio paste cut with almonds). Half the thrill is the variety you’ll find on any given day, from mango lassi to jasmine, sesame or molasses-like muscovado — and the remarkably affordable prices ($2 for a single scoop). — LeSLIe COLe 2448 E. Burnside; 503-548-0359; alderpastryanddessert.blogspot.com Salted Caramel ice Cream at Scoop At Scoop, a squat, cafe-au-lait-colored food truck, you’ll find an array of seasonal ingredients folded into some of the smoothest, creamiest organic ice cream in town. Sure, you could choose a coconut-based vegan scoop in a cone or a cup, but the best flavors come in cow’s milk: apricot-cardamom, avocado, cake batter, triple threat ginger, Oregon hazelnut and everyone’s favorite — when you can get it — salted caramel. Yes, the cart is mobile, but you’ll usually find it parked at the North Station pod, at North Greeley Avenue and Killingsworth Street. — LUCY BURNINGHAM

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from the wood-fired pizzas to the excellent salads. Although it’s a shame not to partake, you don’t have to commit to dinner just to get a scoop of one of Lovely’s insanely creamy ice creams. The scoop counter is right inside the door, and the sixitem menu changes frequently. You really can’t go wrong with any flavor, but the coffee is the very best version on the planet. It’s so deep and pure in flavor, it’ll make your knees buckle. — DANIeLLe CeNTONI 4039 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503-2814060; lovelysfiftyfifty.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY FAITH CATHCART

July / August ’11 Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink

Dinner party in a cooler Raising the bar on housemade sodas McMinnville’s restaurant row

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best summer drinks Plus

10 CANNED BEERS WORTHY OF YOUR COOLER

3 GREAT PICNIC MENUS BUILT ON

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July / August ’11 Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink

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best summer drinks Plus

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