MIX Magazine May 2010

Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink May ’10 P

Booze for breakfast So many good burgers Cool-hunting in Spain Craft beer in a can Tasting Upper Hawthorne

MAY ‘10

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editor’s note

Want to be sure you get every issue of MIX? Subscribe!

10 issues, $19.95 Go to mixpdx.com or call 503-221-8240.

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2954679V01

I’ve always been a hands-on editor, especially when it comes to photo shoots. Rather than dispatching staff to select props, style the photos, run the shoots, I like to do it. Oh, wait, maybe that’s because there isn’t any staff to dispatch! Hence me with the pink rubber gloves and dirty dishes.

In reality, I do a lot of standing around at shoots, while food stylist Linda Faus works hard to cook the recipes so they look appetizing and beautiful. For our Eat Your Spring Greens feature (Page 39), Linda and I, along with photographer Mike Davis, were all extremely hands-on, as we grabbed forks and devoured the food once the pictures were made. Food writer Susie Middleton’s recipes for all the seasonal

lovelies that will be in the farmers markets soon are so excellent …

I couldn’t stop eating the fennel confit. (Her new cookbook “Fast, Fresh, and Green” is just out, so you can get more good things from Susie.)

I wish I had been more handson for the Trans-Atlantic Foragers story (Page 30) … more hands-on as in, “I’ve got my hands on a ticket and I’m coming with you to Spain.” Trend-spotting farmers Leslie Lukas-Recio and Manuel Recio, of Viridian Farms, spent time in San Sebastián exploring markets, sampling restaurants, taking cooking classes and bringing back inspiration so that we can go to their market stand to get our hands on great stuff to cook this summer.

Martha Holmberg, editor mix.martha.holmberg@gmail.com PHOTOGRAPH bY MIkE DAVIS

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MAy’10 30 PHOTOGRAPH BY VINCENT WEST

19 FRIDAy NIGHT DINNER PARTy: Who needs a kitchen to throw a party — or a house, for that matter? We dine in workshop-style.

30 TRANS-ATLANTIC FORAGERS: Viridian Farms heads to Spain in search of good things to grow and eat.

39 EAT yOUR SPRING GREENS: Five delectable ways

to enjoy your phytochemicals.

IN EvERy ISSUE 12 STARTERS Five ways to eat a burger; beer and cheese pairing; spice route on Broadway 25 WALKABOUT A stroll along Upper Hawthorne to satisfy anyone’s hunger

47 MIXMASTER Rising, shining, brunching, drinking 51 SELECTS/ ALBARIÑO So fresh, so green, so Spanish … except when it’s not

55 PUB CRAWL Craft brewers say “Yes we can” to cans 59 GOOD CHEESE Red Hawk: The stinkier the fragrance, the lovelier the flavor

60 EAT HERE/ MANZANITA The little town on the coast with the most 66 SCENE What to eat where

ON THE COVER: Susie Middleton’s Slightly Creamy Fresh Peas With Spring Herbs, p. 39 PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

MIXPDX.COM MIX is now 10 issues a year! It’s easy to subscribe online — go to MIXPDX.COM and click on “subscribe.” you can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

contributors Tami Parr is a freelance writer and author of “Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest.” A great lover of stinky cheeses, she relishes the opportunity to sing the praises of these much-maligned baubles of bliss. Page 59.

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Born the youngest of six in Southampton, England, to an Irish mother and English father, Vincent West decided at 15 that he wanted to work as a photographer but took many years of a (brief) university stay, carpentry, boat building and delivery, dispatch driving and numerous occasional jobs before starting to cover the Basque region for Reuters.

Always glad to have an opportunity to present the Basque culture in a positive light, away from the violence that unfortunately steals the limelight from their fight for improved self-governance, he was thrilled to cover the story of young Americans immersing themselves in San Sebastián’s rich culinary culture. Page 30.

Journalist Rebekah Denn wakes up thinking about breakfast and goes to bed remembering dinner. She is a two-time winner of the James Beard Award, among other national honors for food writing.

You can find her eating ice cream every August in Manzanita, where she loves that she once left her electric mixer in a hotel room and found it waiting for her the following year, because “we knew you’d be back.” Page 60.

OTHER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GRANT BUTLER, KATHERINE COLE, JOHN FOYSTON, ASHLEY GARTLAND, TERI GELBER, IVY MANNING, SUSIE MIDDLETON, MICHAEL ZUSMAN OTHER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS THOMAS BOYD, JAMIE FRANCIS, TIM LaBARGE, BETH NAKAMURA, MOTOYA NAKAMURA, STEVEN NEHL, RANDY RASMUSSEN, DAVID LANTHAN REAMER

Never one to turn down a cooking challenge, Portland-based food writer Matthew Card thought throwing a dinner in an unheated industrial space — sans stove, much of a sink or dinner table — sounded like a brilliant idea. That space, of course, was the Vanilla Bicycles Inc. workshop, birthplace of some of Portland’s finest bikes.

In a nod to full disclosure, he’s a proud owner of a Vanilla road bike, which was commissioned as a 10th wedding anniversary present by his wife, Alex.

In addition to writing and recipe development for Mix magazine and The Oregonian, Card is a contributing editor with Cook’s Illustrated magazine and recently chronicled unsanctioned bike racing for Bicycling magazine. He has two young sons, neither of whom, sadly, seems particularly inclined toward bikes. Page 19.

Some of Mike Davis’ favorite things are making pictures, eating good food, spending time with good friends and anything having to do with bicycling — not necessarily in that order. Making photos for the Friday Night Dinner Party and Spring Vegetable pieces in this issue was, therefore, pure joy for Mike. Page19.

What could be better than eating great food and making pictures of good people in the workshop of one of America’s best bike builders, Sacha White, just days before he moved the shop to new digs?

Passing a day with Martha Holmberg and Linda Faus making pictures of five delicious dishes wasn’t far behind in great experiences. Page 39.

You can see more of Mike’s bicycling photography at pdxcross.com — as well as photos by others who are part of the pdxcross team.

And visit his website at www.michaelddavis.com.

Leslie Cole loved her vicarious trip to Spain this spring, which began on a drenching January day in Northwest Portland listening to farmers Manuel and Leslie-Lukas Recio sketch out their travel plans, and continued as their photos and stories filtered back to MIX headquarters. Cole, a staff writer for The Oregonian’s FOODday section, last wrote about starting a wine cellar for MIX. The next time she visits Basque Country and Barcelona, it will not be with a backpack and a student’s budget. Page 30 .

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starters “I was like, ‘Wow, people are getting their gin on in the morning.’ ”

— Jackie Sappington, co-owner and cocktail collaborator, Country Cat.

p47

five things / new burgers

by michael Zusman

since opening in december, foster burger has exhibited the gravitational pull of a black hole, drawing customers from all over town. high-octane chef daniel mondok (sel gris, carlyle) gets props for his messy delights such as a lamb-y Kiwi Burger or the kitchen-sink “Foster road pile-up.” 5339 S.E. Foster Road

“Cans have 99 advantages over bottles and one disadvantage.”

you gotta really want a Biwa Burger. With its succulent slice of two-day-cured chasyu pork and smear of kimchi mayo with a side mound of tarragon-kissed potato salad, it’s available only after 10 p.m. weeknights, 11 weekends. hey, at least biwa is open until midnight. Southeast Ninth Avenue and Ash Street

— Jim Mills, owner of Ashland’s Caldera Brewing.

p55

eat this now

[ Poco Dolce burnt caramel chocolate ] 12

you’ll be eating a lot of fresh vegetables this month, so to ensure a balanced diet, try a “tile” from poco dolce, a san Francisco chocolatier. the bittersweet burnt caramel toffee with sea salt is especially nutritious. nibble around the edges of this super-smooth dark tile and it’s all chocolate, but as you work your way toward the center, you’ll encounter one of the best toffees ever: crunchy but not too hard, and cooked up to the very precipice of doneness, so it’s teetering deliciously on the edge of burnt. each tile is lightly sprinkled with gray (or “grey,” as they like to spell it) sea salt, for an added serving of minerals. $2.25; available at in good taste, 231 n.W. 11th ave., 503-248-2015, ingoodtastestore.com

chris israel’s new “it” place downtown, grüner, has a bar-only burger that could drive you to drink just to get it. the house-ground beef and exotic currywurst ketchup are inducement enough, but the deep-golden, poppy-dotted bun is the crowning glory — and sturdy enough to absorb a danube’s worth of burger juice. 537 S.W. 12th Ave.

a sunshine yellow truck stationed in the new director park downtown presages a bricks-and-mortar restaurant to come called violetta, or etta for short. the local-beef burger, or portlandmandatory turkey burger or spicy lentil alternatives, make you want to keep on truckin’— especially the rogue creamery oregonzola and caramelized onion burger. Director Park, 815 S.W. Park Ave.

When todd steele opened Metrovino — his high-tech wine bar/ fine-dining restaurant — on a low-traffic corner in the pearl district last year, he hedged his bets with a muscular bar burger. it’s a two-thirds pound jaw stretcher — or, on mondays nights only, there’s the half-size version as part of a “burger and bubbly” special. 1139 N.W. 11th Ave.

photography by randy l. rasmussen

starterscont.

to do May May 1-5

Ole! Ole! Hurray! the five-day Cinco de Mayo celebration ushers in the waterfront festival season with spirited dancing and some of the spiciest fair food you’ll find all year. cincodemayo.org

May 2

Tea for Tots portland’s Japanese garden celebrates Kodomo no hi — children’s day — with special activities such as paper kite making and an introduction to tea drinking designed for young palates in the garden’s ornate Kashintei tea house. japanesegarden.com

14 May 5

To market! To market! as much as we love the saturday portland Farmers market, its 10 a.m.-2 p.m. wednesday market in shemanski park (just west of the arlene schnitzer concert hall) is even cooler, with food booths that draw nearby office workers during lunchtime, and a more-manageable number of produce vendors. and if that’s too big for you, try the even smaller eastbank Market, running 3-7 p.m. thursdays beginning may 6. portlandfarmersmarket.org

May 6

Feed your eyes and appetite during the winter, First thursday can be a cold, dreary affair. but with warmer weather, the party spills out of downtown and pearl district galleries into a full-blown street fair. after ogling all the art, grab late-night happy hour nibbles at pearl restaurants. padaoregon.org

More to do

obsessives

Livin’ the fermentation dream beware: a beer and cheese revolution recently erupted near mount tabor, and there’s no stopping it. curd nerd extraordinaire steve Jones’ new outpost, cheese bar, will sell and serve 200 cheeses and more than 50 beers. “i love seeing people walk over to the cheese case, beer in hand, and match their favorite cheese; it’s like a living dream,” claims Jones. the quaint corner shop attends to every gourmand’s

fermented fetishes, from Cheese Bar cheese to cured meats to 6031 S.E. Belmont St. beer (and wine, too).

503-222-6014 procure your favorite artisan goods and linger over a malty brew and salty snack. is there a better combination to be found?

Jones says no. here’s what he says about some of his favorite pairings. — teri gelber

River’s edge fresh chèvre with Kellerweis from sierra nevada Brewing Co. the acidity in this hefeweizen matches the acidity in the goat cheese. the wheat-based beer has banana-lemon notes that react with and complement the creamy oregon cheese.

Pholia Farm elk Mountain goat cheese with organic Velvet esB from hopworks Urban Brewery the milk in this firm aged cheese is from nigerian dwarf goats whose yield is small in volume, but big in flavor. the grain-driven beer (brewed on powell bo ulevard) has a floral aroma and malty finish that brings out the round, oaty flavors in the cheese. the ingredients within the ingredients come out, revealing what the goats eat. it’s really amazing.

Cowgirl Creamery’s Red hawk with old Foghorn from anchor Brewing Co. i like beers with malty backbone. the viscosity and sweet maltiness in this beer stands up to the bacon-fatty flavors of this california washed-rind cheese. it takes a more complex triple cream to handle this beer. ancient heritage adelle with oyster stout from Upright Brewing this oregon farmhouse sheep and cow’s milk cheese has a bloomy mild rind with a rich, creamy center. it’s great with the oyster stout, brewed near our very own burnside bridge. the beer starts out briny (it’s brewed with some oyster juice) with roasted grains up front, is super creamy in the middle and finishes with a slight note of bitter. the cheese and beer together give you the sensation of chocolate cake batter; that’s the only analogy i can think of.

Rogue Creamery smokey Blue with watershed iPa from oakshire Brewery With something as big and hoppy as a northwest ipa, you need something that can stand up to it. the smokey blue has high acid with a lush smokiness. a plain blue cheese would be too hot and acidic with an ipa, but the smokiness in this oregon blue centers it and rounds it all out. photography by david lanthan reamer

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starterscont. to do cont.

May 8

Uncorking discoveries Forty tiny wineries — undoubtedly some you’ve never heard of — pour their small-batch vintages during the sixth annual Portland indie wine & Food Festival. Joining them are coffee, chocolates and small plates from portland independent-minded chefs. indiewinefestival.com

read this now MoMofuku for the Masses

May 8

A jazzed-up Silverton there’s other wine being celebrated an hour south of portland. the silverton wine and Jazz Festival, in its fourth year, offers 12 hours of wines from nearby vintners, plus music from tom grant, nancy King, bobby torres and pianist/composing legend dave Frishberg. add in a trip to the oregon garden or silver Falls state park, and you’ve got the perfect day trip. silvertonwineandjazz.com

May 9

For the love of Mom unless you want to be in the doghouse, make a reservation at a posh restaurant for Mother’s Day brunch. some places known for pulling out all the stops: the heathman, bluehour and — of course! — mother’s bistro & bar.

May 14

Put the accordion away, please apparently, today is national Chicken Dance Day, which is odd since the world’s silliest poultry-themed polka is so closely associated with inebriated oktoberfest revelry.

16

if you like enduring long lines, tiny backless stools and pounding rock music, you can experience david chang’s food directly at one of his four momofuku locations in new york. or, you can forgo the bicoastal trip and enjoy his celebrated blend of asian, French and american cuisine in the quiet of your own home, thanks to momofuku’s new eponymous cookbook (Potter, 2009, $40). the book includes about 100 recipes for everything from earthy shiitake pickles to pig’s head torchon (lots of discussion of this on the blogs, by the way). the recipe that could be worth the entire cover price? the one for the famous pork-alicious steamed buns stuffed with sweet-salty roasted pork belly and cucumber pickles.

— ivy manning

the oregonian, 1948

urban foraging

May 28

Roses are red, but you won’t be blue For more than 100 years, the Portland Rose Festival has been a showcase of hometown civic pride. it kicks off with a fireworks spectacular on the Willamette river, next to the Waterfront village, a massive carnival where you can score guilty pleasures like funnel cakes and elephant ears. hey, it’s only once a year! continues through June 13. rosefestival.org

May 29-31

Grab the picnic basket a lot of oregon wineries have year-round tasting rooms, but others are open only during Memorial weekend in wine Country and around thanksgiving. grab some picnic goodies and head south to yamhill county to try many just-released vintages of pinot noir. willamettewines.com

a few tears were shed when portland cutlery, home of all things sharp and chef-y, closed late last year.

Fortunately, their plum downtown retail space is keeping the culinary faith with new tenants: the spice & tea exchange. the Florida-based franchise offers the usual suspects — spanking-fresh bulk spices from a to Z (including a half-dozen paprikas; that would be under p). What really sets this shop apart, however, is unique finds such as spinach powder (for making fresh pasta), powdered mesquite (for barbecue sauce) and all-natural flavored sanding sugars. our pick? the espresso sanding sugar, perfect for adding a caffeine-laced punch to butter cookies and straight-up drinks.

536 S.W. Broadway, 503-208-2886.

— ivy manning

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friday night dinner party [ A Mediterranean dinner workshop ]

By MAtthew cArd / Photography by Mike dAvis

friday night dinner party

the Menu toasted Bulgur Pilaf Grilled Lamb kebabs with Aleppo chile and Pomegranate Molasses carrot salad with honey, cumin and cilantro cardamom and honey rice Pudding

20 20

Shoot first, eat later. It’s great to have a photographic guest book for whatever your event is. Here, the smiling faces of the crafty guests at Sacha White and Matthew Card’s workshop dinner at Vanilla Bikes.

s

acha white and i have talked for years about throwing a dinner party in the workshop of vanilla Bicycle co., of which he is owner. Filled with tidy tool boards, gorgeous bikes and the bits and bobs required to fabricate said bikes, the industrial space exudes rough-hewn allure. the stars finally aligned and we pulled it off, just weeks shy of the workshop relocating 20-odd blocks southward. to keep the guest list in check (the hard part of the evening), we limited invitees to just a few close friends and their partners, all of whom are, for want of a better term, “craftspeople” — a metal fabricator, bag makers, a haberdasher, a coffee roaster and, um, an orthopedic surgeon … that counts as craft. Not surprisingly, most of the guests are cyclists, too (including one former pro road racer), and almost everyone arrived via two wheels. with no heat source beyond a rickety hibachi and minimal counter space to speak of (luckily, however, there was a full-size refrigerator), i opted to keep the meal simple, one i could largely prepare at home (much of it the night before) and serve at room temperature or reheated over the grill. with a few vegetarians mixed in the crowd, i created a vegetable-heavy menu with a southern Mediterranean angle. For starters, i laid out labneh (yogurt cheese) topped with thyme, sesame and sumac-flavored za’atar (an utterly addictive combo that takes

literally no effort to prepare), flatbreads and pita, olives and spicy deviled eggs made with eggs from sacha’s hens.

From there, we moved to grilled lamb kebabs flavored with a garlic-laced, sweet-tart marinade made with Aleppo chile and pomegranate molasses, followed by halibut kebabs simply seasoned with paprika, cumin, cayenne and plenty of extra-virgin olive oil. there was a caramelized onion bulgur pilaf to soak up the kebabs’ juices and a slew of simple vegetable dishes, all largely flavored with variations on the same lemony vinaigrette (to keep prep work to a minimum). For dessert, i served rice pudding spiked with cardamom, honey and vanilla, perfectly matched by French presses of stumptown’s hairbender beans. we drank bicyclettes (white wine and campari), cheap reds and hoppy iPAs from mason jars and ate off a table of repurposed futon frames. the stools pressed into service were periously tippy after a drink or three, but the conversation flowed and, all in all, it was just the sort of evening you might expect when you cook dinner in a bike maker’s workshop full of crafty people: good.

It seemed like a good idea at the time, but cooking dinner in a bike workshop — with no real kitchen — has its challenges. Matthew Card (above) kept it real by keeping it simple — skewers for grilling, lots of salads, a do-ahead rice pudding for dessert.

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friday night dinner partycont. toasted Bulgur Pilaf SerVeS 4 to 6

Bulgur is available in very fine to coarse textures. i typically look for something in between. ZerGüt-brand “Bulgur #3 for Pilaf ” is my top choice and available at Barbur world Foods. For the best texture, i recommend cooking the bulgur shortly before serving.

1½ cups mediumground bulgur 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil 1 large onion, minced salt 2½ to 3 cups chicken broth or water Ground black pepper Lemon juice 3 green onions, tops and bottoms trimmed, chopped fine ½ cup toasted walnuts, chopped (optional)

Grilled Lamb Kebabs With Aleppo Chile and Pomegranate Molasses SerVeS 4 to 6

Aleppo pepper, pomegranate molasses and dried mint are available at Barbur world Foods (9845 s.w. Barbur Blvd.). don’t substitute fresh mint, as it has a very different flavor than dried mint.

cook bulgur, stirring occasionally, in a large skillet over medium heat until lightly toasted and golden brown, 8 to 12 minutes. transfer to bowl and set aside.

while the kebabs can be served with little more than a lemon wedge, feel free to make a simple yogurt sauce by combining whole-milk yogurt with chopped fresh cilantro, mint, or parsley, and a pinch each of salt and cayenne or ground black pepper.

return skillet to medium heat, melt butter in pan, and add oil, onion and large pinch salt. cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and browned, 20 to 25 minutes.

For grilling, i strongly recommend hardwood charcoal rather than briquettes. they heat faster, burn hotter and contribute a cleaner flavor than briquettes. You can also broil the kebabs. set them within 4 inches of the broiler element and watch carefully to prevent scorching. if using bamboo skewers, wrap the exposed ends with foil.

stir in bulgur, increase heat to high, and add 2½ cups broth or water. Once simmering, reduce to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes. stir bulgur and if too chewy, add another ½ cup broth, otherwise re-cover and cook until liquid is absorbed and pan is dry, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, add lemon juice to taste, and stir in green onions. top with walnuts, if using, and serve.

4 garlic cloves, crushed 1½ teaspoons ground cumin 2 tablespoons Aleppo pepper 1 teaspoon dried mint 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 4 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil 2 to 2¼ pounds boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cut into ½-inch-wide strips Lemon wedges, for serving

combine all ingredients except for lamb in blender jar and process to paste, adding 2 to 4 tablespoons of water if necessary for a smooth texture. transfer to nonreactive bowl; add lamb, and refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 24 hours. thread lamb onto skewers (if using bamboo skewers, soak in water for 30 minutes before skewering to prevent burning).

Grill over hot fire (you can hold your hand above coals no more than three seconds) until browned and medium rare, about 3 minutes a side. serve accompanied by lemon wedges or yogurt sauce.

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friday night dinner partycont.

Carrot Salad With Honey, Cumin and Cilantro SerVeS 4 to 6

though you can grate the carrots on the large holes of a box grater, i highly recommend the shredding disk of a food processor, which extracts less moisture from the carrots.

SAPPHIRE HOTEL 5008 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD.

¼ teaspoon ground cumin Pinch cayenne pepper 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, minced to paste

www.thesapphirehotel.com

2 tablespoons mild honey salt 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

The 24 t h A n n ua l

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1¼ pounds carrots, peeled and grated

pre s e n t s:

combine cumin, cayenne, lemon juice, garlic, honey and large pinch salt in bowl and allow to sit for 10 minutes. whisk in olive oil and adjust seasoning to taste with salt and cayenne. combine carrots and cilantro in serving bowl; toss with dressing and serve.

Cardamom and Honey rice Pudding SerVeS 4 to 6

Any sort of medium-grain rice works fine here, and sushi rice is perfect, too. the rice will thicken as it sits, so feel free to add more yogurt to loosen its texture. sour cream, labneh or crème fraîche may be substituted for the yogurt. instead of pistachios, you can top the pudding with a dollop of orange marmalade, apricot jam or poached apricots.

ography of CWK Phot Photo cour tesy

McMinnville, OR

1 cup medium-grain rice 1½ cups water Photo courtesy of Andrea Johnson

60+ Pinot Noirs from Around the World 12+ Famed Northwest Chefs

Right in your own backyard!

INTERNATIONAL PINOT NOIR CELEBRATION 800.775.4762 | WWW.IPNC.ORG | INFO@IPNC.ORG

salt 4 green cardamom pods, cracked (be sure your pods are fresh and fragrant) ½ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped into pot 1½ to 2¼ cups cream ¼ cup sugar ¼ cup honey 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ cup whole-milk yogurt ½ cup pistachios, chopped (optional)

combine rice, water, large pinch salt, cardamom and vanilla in large saucepan and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. cook, stirring occasionally, until water is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Add 1½ cups of cream and sugar; reduce heat to medium and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until rice is tender, 15 to 20 minutes (adding more cream if necessary). stir in honey, vanilla and yogurt; allow to sit for 10 minutes for rice to absorb remaining liquid. discard vanilla bean and cardamom pods; serve topped with chopped pistachios. £

walkabout [ Upper Hawthorne Boulevard ]

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It’s easy to break Southeast Portland’s Hawthorne Boulevard into three distinct segments. There’s lower Hawthorne, a fast-paced stretch running from Grand Avenue to 20th, including one of the city’s most interesting pods of food carts, as well as the high-end kitchen Castagna, arguably one of the best in town. Next, there’s central Hawthorne, which is particularly rich in food options in the dense corridor between 34th and 39th, which includes the venerable Bread & Ink Cafe, Pastaworks and an outlet of Powell’s that’s so cookbookheavy it was known as “Powell’s Books for Cooks.”

Then there’s upper Hawthorne, stretching from 39th up to 50th, where Mount Tabor starts to take off. It’s a nighttime dining destination for its much-loved Apizza Scholls, as well as the famous Bloody Marys that heat things up at The Space Room. But during the day, there’s very little foot traffic, which is odd given how ideal it is for

By GRANT BUTLER a sidewalk exploration of its culinary treasures.

PHoToGRAPHy By BETH NAKAMURA

walkabout/upper hawthornecont.

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A perfect spot for beginning your upper Hawthorne jaunt is the recently remodeled 1 Fred Meyer (3805 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503872-3315; fredmeyer.com), which feels like a grocery store from the future. Work on the building was done to LEED specifications, making this one of the greenest supermarkets around, and if you park in the upper parking lot, there are electrical charging stations, so you can juice up your electric car while you shop. once you get inside, you see what really makes this Freddy’s different.

Next to the deli counter are work stations where cooks prepare fresh tortillas every day from scratch, as well as batches of fresh tortilla and potato chips.

Nearby is a sushi-go-round, with new items popping up as quickly as they’re made, taking the mystery out of those prepared sushi cartons you find at most stores.

And along the back wall, you’ll find one of the city’s most-extensive selections of bottled microbrews, as well as a vastly improved wine

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department. The success of this market hasn’t gone unnoticed. Just a couple of blocks away, they’ve broken ground on a New Seasons, scheduled for completion later this year.

If you don’t find the wine you’re looking for at Freddy’s, you can find a special bottle at 2 Mt. Tabor Fine Wines (4316 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-235-4444; mttaborfinewines.com). There are lots of bargain-priced bottles around $10 for everyday sipping, plus a nook of sparkling wines in the back designed for any size of wallet. Bins of featured wines include enthusiastic, handwritten tasting notes to help you figure out food pairings. on Friday evenings, the real fun begins with special $15-$18 tastings, which gallivant around the globe, hitting South America one week and France’s Rhone Valley the next.

If it’s lunchtime, upper Hawthorne has plenty of options, with two distinct standouts.

3 Hawthorne Fish House (4343 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-548-4434; hawthornefishhouse.com)

offers a distinctly Portland take on old-fashioned fish and chips. The menu is built around sustainably caught walleye, halibut and lake perch, and almost everything is gluten-free. At lunchtime, you’ll find unbelievable $5.95 cash-only deals, like a bowl of clam chowder and salad combo, or a tuna melt sandwich with fries. Farther up the street, there’s the second outlet of 4 Por Que No Taqueria (4635 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-954-3138; porquenotacos.com), which almost always has a line out the door. Like the original on North Mississippi Avenue, the focus here is on freshness, from homemade tortillas to freshly squeezed juice used in margaritas, sangrias and non-alcoholic sippers. There are numerous options for vegetarians, and many

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At the top end of upper Hawthorne are two great spots for drinks — the coffee kind early in the day, and cocktails in the evening. At 6 Albina Press (5012 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-2825214), coffee hounds gather with their laptops at bar seats overlooking the constantly humming espresso machines, or along the picture windows in the front of the shop, which are next to a trophy case loaded with prizes that owner Kevin Fuller has won at regional and national barista competitions.

And here’s a refreshing twist: Instead of playing mopey music by the Shins and the Decemberists — standard audio fare at almost every Southeast coffee spot — they play Johnny Cash and Dolly Parton

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items can be made vegan — just ask them to leave off the cheese and sour cream.

If you’re obsessed with midcentury chic, you have to stop into 5 Hawthorne Vintage (4722 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-230-2620; hawthornevintagepdx.com), a co-op of 15 vendors specializing in furniture and housewares from the ’50s and ’60s. There are plenty of cocktail sets with matching tumblers, shakers and pitchers, a rack that’s loaded with hip Tiki glasses and Polynesian kitsch. Tables are loaded with novelty glasses, souvenir shot glasses, even coffee mugs covered with long-lost lingo from the 1970s citizens band radio craze.

Breaker, breaker: Any takers?

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without a whiff of irony.

Perhaps that’s because there’s so much wit at next door’s 7 Sapphire Hotel (5008 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503-232-6333; thesapphirehotel.com), which isn’t a hotel at all, but instead a swanky lounge that feels part brothel, part Parisian bistro. The cocktail menu has drinks with fun names like The other Woman (a pear-ginger drink with apple-infused bourbon) and Lounge Singer (a Manhattan made with fig-infused bourbon and pomegranate juice), but also pays tribute to jazz chanteuse Nina Simone (a Champagne cocktail with pomegranate juice and Grand Marnier). During happy hour, running 4-6 p.m. daily, with additional hours 10 p.m.-close SundaysThursdays, well drinks run just $4, and you can score $6 pita pizzas and a $6 bowl of arugula and artichoke dip.

Exiting Sapphire on a rainy night, you can look west and marvel at red taillights dancing off the wet pavement all the way down to 39th and beyond. Some of upper Hawthorne’s gems are ephemeral. £

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SE Hawthorne Blvd SE 25th

SE 20th

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SE Belmont

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SE Hawthorne

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SE Division • 1

Come experience traditional northern Indian Cuisine! House specialties include Lamb Shahi, Prawns Coconut Curry, and Mango Rita drink. Come try our Middle Eastern specialties and acclaimed Seafood and Vegetarian Curries. Come relax in a true intimate dinning experience. Call for reservations. Fri-Sat 5-10, Sun - Thurs 5-9

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3 Doors Down

Present of Mind

32 OHM Audio

Fine dining in a casual atmosphere established in 1994. Fresh and local ingredients featured in treasured mainstay dishes and rotating menu Wine and Spirits magazine recognized wine list, Oregonian noteworthy wine list, affordable and interesting: “Where the wine geeks drink”. Sundays - Spaghetti and Meatballs. Talented Mixologists, Attention to detail. Happy Hour - All night Tues, Wed, Thur and Sun

Presents of Mind is a Classic, Indie and Terminally Cool Cards and Gift Store offering One Stop Shopping for the Rest of us! Jewelry, Tees, Baby, Accessories, Local Portland Designers, Home Decor, Bath & Body, Toys, Apparel, Cards, Gifts and all things Paper. Family Owned & Operated since 1989.

Open 10am-7pm every day Extended Holiday & Summer hours

Portland’s only headphone boutique and personal audio specialists.

Featuring the northwest’s largest selection of headphones, and unique audio gear for your ipod or computer source. “Try Before You Buy” with over 50 headphones and 30 in-ear headphones you can demo at our custom listening station all in our beautifully designed neighborhood store conveniently located on SE Hawthorne Blvd.

3633 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.230.7740 www.presentsofmind.tv www.blog.presentsofmind.tv

1429 SE 37th Ave 503.236.6886 www.3doorsdowncafe.com

1925 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.231.0740 bombaycricketclubrestaurant.com

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4530 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.206.5931 www.32ohmaudio.com

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Ben & Jerry’s Your Restaurant Here Whether you’ve been creating art for years or just starting, you’ll find a full range of quality art supplies at Muse Art and Design, along with affordable prices and friendly, knowledgeable service. We specialize in many hard-to-find products and have the Northwest’s most complete selection of encaustic painting supplies.

Special orders are welcome.

M-Sat: 11am-6pm, Sun: noon-5pm equip | inform | inspire 4224 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.231.8704 www.MuseArtandDesign.com

Murder By The Book A Mystery Bookstore New & Used Books: Detective Fiction • Crime Novels • Spy Stories • Thrillers • Cozies • Noir Upcoming author events: Jeffrey Deaver – June 11, noon Craig Johnson – June 17, noon and July 7, 7:00 p.m.

Bring this ad in & receive $1 off a purchase of $20 or more Hours: Mon-Sat 10-6:30pm, Sun 11-5 3210 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.232.9995 www.mbtb.com

SE Hawthorne Blvd Marketplace

April showers bring May flowers as well as good weather for eating Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream, Frozen Yogurt and Sorbet. Open everyday from 11am till 10pm Sunday-Thursday, Friday & Saturday till 11pm.

Stop on by our SE Hawthorne location for your choice of over 30 different flavors of Vermont’s finest frozen treats.

May 15th marks the date for our American Red Cross Blood drive, PINT for PINT. For every Pint of Blood donated you will receive a Pint of your choice of any of our euphoric flavors for free.

1428 SE 36th Ave 503.234.2223 www.benjerry.com/hawthorne

JaCiva’s An extravagent blend of our signature desserts and Stumptown french press coffee are the perfect late night treat or romantic night out.

Fridays & Saturdays 5pm-10pm 4733 SE Hawthorne Bvd 503.234.8115 www.jacivas.com

SE Hawthorne Blvd

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Bread and Ink

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CAFE and

Hawthorne Cutlery Portland’s LAST and ONLY * independently owned * ambidextrous * bipolar * misanthropic * non-profit, dammit!

KNIFE STORE 11-6 Mon-Sat 3208 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.234.8898 www.hawthornecutlery.com

Crossroads Trading Co.

Gold Dust Meridian

Bring us your gently used clothes, shoes, and accessories and get 35% in cash, 50% in trade. Current styles, cash on the spot. Crossroads buys, sells and trades fashion to fit every need from Abercrombie and Fitch to Dolce and Gabbana. Best prices on Marc Jacobs, Express, Prada, J. Crew, True Religion, Seven for All Mankind, Miss Sixty and more.

He’ll take a beer, she’ll have the bourbon. Relax in the atomic age at the Gold Dust Meridian, Hawthorne’s stylish home of local beer, wine, spirits and food that keeps quality and budget in mind. Swing in for our long happy hours, 7 days a week from 2-8 pm, live entertainment Thursday-Sunday with patio seating year round.

3736 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.239.8099 www.crossroadstrading.com

3267 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.239.1143 www.golddustmeridian.com

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Generations/ Mamababy Boutique

Elsa+Sam

Offering stylish maternity and children’s clothing, Mamababy Boutique is helping moms through the transitions of motherhood. You’ll find everything from nursing lingerie, to skin care products, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Take a load off in this family friendly environment and let their experienced staff assist you with all your mama needs.

Elsa+sam offers only the highest quality decorative and functional dishware direct from independent designers around the world. Our shop is filled with beautifully crafted ceramics, glassware, linens and artwork. Elsa+sam is the perfect place to find unique and wonderful gifts for the home and kitchen.

4029 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.233.8130 www.mamababyshop.com

4314 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.517.9942 www.elsasam.com

Bread and Ink Cafe Waffle Window

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Fyberworks An abundant selection of clothing, jewelry and accessories with tantalizing textures and colors create the vibrant atmosphere that has made Fyberworks Boutique the favorite shopping destination for local women of all ages and sizes. An experience not to be missed!

Open Tues-Sun 4300 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.232.7659 www.fyberworks.com

Bread and Ink has been serving an eclectic menu for over 25 years. At Bread and Ink, every dish is created using as many locally sourced ingredients as possible. We serve only natural meats, poultry and wild seafood, local vegetables, breads and pastries that are baked fresh daily in our bakery. Our constantly changing menu and attention to detail create a truly enjoyable dining experience.

Happy Hour 3-6pm.

Next to Bread and Ink Cafe, the Waffle Window serves amazing Liege waffles, as reviewed in Gourmet magazine and AAA’s Via magazine.

Corner of 36th & Hawthorne 503.239.4756 www.breadandinkcafe.com www.wafflewindow.com

Cool Cottons High quality 100% cotton fabric for sewing, quilting, crafting, or just plain collecting!

2417 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.232.0417 www.coolcottons.biz

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To advertise in Marketplace contact Adam Rice at 503.221.8306 or adamr@sales.oregonian.com

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Trans-Atlantic Foragers

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These Oregon farmers travel the world in search of cool things to grow, just for us

By LESLIE CoLE / Photography by VINCENT WEST

We’ll bet you a fistful of spring morels that your last vacation wasn’t this good.

You didn’t fashion your own treasure hunt through Spain, traipse from Michelin-starred restaurants in Catalonia to cooking classes in San Sebastian, eat pintxos, the Basque equivalent of tapas, in a seaside bar, explore subterranean wine cellars in Rioja and ancient Andalucian villages perfumed with smoky hams.

Manuel Recio and Leslie Lukas-Recio did. And you will eat better tomorrow because of it.

Since the couple took up farming six years ago on Grand Island in Dayton, Viridian Farms has made a name with chefs and eaters by growing the most interesting produce in the Willamette Valley. Selling to restaurants and at the Portland Farmers Market, they bring things we thought we could live without until we tasted them, such as thumb-size fried peppers called pimientos de padron, fat stalks of white asparagus, fruity dried espelette peppers from the Pyrenees, a lemony tasting French green called ficoide glacial. Europe, especially Spain — where they met as students and fell in love — is where they look for ideas on what to plant, inspiration on what to cook, what the grandmas and the avant-garde are saying about food.

Not long ago, to enjoy a plate of sizzling, pimientos de padron, you had to go to a tapas bar in Spain. Now, just head to Viridian’s stall at the Portland Farmers Market to buy a basketful (in season later this summer). Heat a heavy skillet, glug in some good olive oil, fry the peppers quickly until blistery and hot, then sprinkle with sea salt and serve.

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Wisdom of the market While earlier trips to Spain, France and Italy were for sussing out growing practices and new varieties, this one was for culinary research. Lukas-Recio, the fourth generation in her family to earn a living from the land, loves going to markets to ogle the glorious displays of fresh fish, cheeses and produce, but especially, she says, to talk with vendors. “They’re so knowledgeable. Some are farmers, some are resellers, but they’re all steeped in the growing techniques.” on a morning visit to Bretxa market in San Sebastián, they found fat, red Dulce de España peppers, which Basque cooks grill whole, and learned that in Spain, the best is never the biggest in the bunch: Small artichokes offer more flavor.

SNaPSHotS by MaNuel Recio aNd leSlie lukaS-Recio

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If we’re eating, this must be Spain

Visits to gleaming produce markets in Madrid and Barcelona bookended the three-week trip, in which the farmers wended their way through Catalonia and Basque country, into Navarra’s vast farm country and the mountain villages in Andalucia, where figs grow like weeds and the streets are perfumed with the scent of acorn-fed cured ham. They watched armies of avant-garde chefs conjure foams and wafers at Michelin-starred restaurants, but also learned lessons from produce vendors and everyday cooks, such as if the skin starts to lift from peppers as you fry them, it means they’re greenhouse grown.

Learn more

Manuel Recio and Leslie Lukas-Recio have traveled widely in Spain on their own, but for this trip and its gastronomic focus, they consulted with Jane Gregg of Epicurean Ways, 866-642-2917, epicureanways.com.

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Kitchen confidence Seeing how the Spanish vanguard and home cooks use traditional ingredients helps the farmers talk to chefs when they return home to oregon. This trip, they arranged for a private class with Haritz Aranburu, a chef in CofradĂ­a Vasca de GastronomĂ­a, one of the exclusive Basque gastronomic societies in San SebastiĂĄn, who improvised an entire menu around market vegetables. one revelation: traditional dishes such as squid in its own ink can be reinterpreted with produce as the star. Above, the chef and the two farmers stuff, dredge and fry the separated layers of an onion, a delicious stand-in for the squid. Golden-skinned cooking apples from the market, cored and splashed with hard cider, melt into a bed of pastry for an impromptu dessert, opposite page, while for a winter vegetable stew, the chef cooks each component separately to achieve perfect taste and texture, before combining them and adding a final flourish of cognac -- and fire.

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White Asparagus Confit Preparing asparagus this way preserves the integrity of the delicate white asparagus flavor for use in other dishes. If you can find them, use thick stalks of white asparagus for this recipe, known as cojonudos in Spain.

1 pound white asparagus, washed, trimmed and peeled olive oil Set peeled asparagus spears in a deep pot and add olive oil to cover, about 2-3 inches deep. Bring to a slow boil over medium heat, then reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

When stalks are fork-tender, drain, reserving oil, and cool to room temperature. Eat the asparagus confit on its own or add it to salads or other vegetable dishes. Chill reserved oil and use for sautÊing vegetables. — From Viridian Farms

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Food imitating art “My theme of the trip,” Lukas-Recio says, “was food is art, cooking is art, production is art, growing is art.”

By eating widely and talking to chefs and shopkeepers wherever they travel, the farmers make discoveries and learn new ways to look at things they already grow. Here in oregon cooks use borage for its flowers and leaves, for instance, but the Spanish also use the stems to make a quick pickle or a confit. In the arid Rioja region, they found shelling beans that “almost taste like chocolate.” They visit wineries on every trip, Lukas-Recio says, in part because “we’ve always wanted to talk about our produce like a winemaker talks about wine.”

Peel, dip, eat Maine has its lobster. Catalonia,

especially the city of Valls, has the calçot. These mild spring onions are the center of spring festivals called calçotadas, where they’re thrown on the grill over hot grapevine prunings, blackened, peeled and eaten — head tipped back — with a romesco-type sauce called salbitxada (see recipe, right). Soon you can throw your own celebration of messy fun without leaving Portland. Viridian Farms will harvest its first crop of calçots in late spring and sell them at the Portland Farmers Market.

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Calçots With Salbitxada Sauce Viridian Farms sells calçots at the Portland Farmers Market, or you can use good-sized spring onions with long green stems.

Calçot preparation: Cut roots off the calçots or spring onions to remove any soil. Prepare a hot grill and arrange the calçots evenly in a line on the grill grate. Turn gradually so that they turn crisp and charred on the outside and are cooked through inside. (Indoors, they can be cooked in an iron frying pan or a griddle pan.) Serve on hot tiles (as they do in Catalonia) or on warmed plates with a bowl of salbitxada.

Salbitxada Sauce 4 tablespoons blanched almonds

Toast almonds in a 350-degree oven for 5-7 minutes. In the bowl of a food processor or a mortar, place cooled toasted almonds and process or pound until coarsely ground.

Add peppers and garlic and pulse or mash into a paste. Add tomatoes, parsley and vinegar and process. With food processor running, drizzle in olive oil and process until sauce is thick. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grilled calçots.

4 fresh mildly hot peppers, such as Spanish guindillas or Anaheim chilies, seeded and chopped

To eat calçots, hold them from the top and peel off the two outside layers, which should have been charred by the coals, to reveal the white onion flesh. Dip in sauce and lift high to the mouth.

— From Viridian Farms

MakeS about 4 cuPS

8 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

The Oregonian / Mix Magazine 1/2 PAGE VERT 4.25” x 10.875”

winery & art gallery

Tasting Room & Art Gallery OPEN WedNesday - SUNday 11am - 4pm

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W W W. B A B E T T E S F. C O M

2 0 8 N. W. 1 3 T H A V E N U E , P O R T L A N D

a family-operated winery in the heart of Ribbon Ridge specializing in hand-crafted Riesling & Pinot Noir winery houses a 1,500 square foot gallery featuring the painting & photography of artist/owner James Frey

18401 Ribbon Ridge Rd Newberg, Oregon

(503) 538-9898 www.trisaetum.com

eat your Nature is good at using color to get what it wants — showy flowers attract bees to transport their pollen, tropical fish blend safely into sundappled reefs, the peacock with the flashiest iridescence gets the girl.

And so it is with spring green things — lettuces, herbs and all those early vegetables that send out their chartreuse siren song.

After months of gray, green looks mighty good. We pick it up. We cook it. We eat it. It’s so good. Which is the point — nature wants us to be happy.

spring

RecIpes BY susIe mIddletoN photogRAphY BY mIKe dAVIs

greens

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Warm Parmesan and Fava Bean Crostini With Shallots and Mint seRVes 2 As AN AppetIzeR

2¼ teaspoons kosher salt (divided) 2 pounds fava beans in the pod 4 slices baguette (about ½-inch thick and 3 inches long) Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing bread 2 tablespoons butter ⁄3 cup thinly sliced shallots

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½ teaspoon sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons finely chopped or very thinly sliced fresh mint (divided) 3 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (divided) Fill a large saucepan halfway with water and 2 teaspoons of the kosher salt. Bring the water to a boil. Put a few cups of ice in a medium mixing bowl and fill the bowl with cold water. Set a mesh strainer near the stove. Shuck the favas (remove the beans from their long, bulky pods).

Put all the favas in the boiling water and start timing immediately.

Cook the favas for 2 minutes (if all the beans are small) or 3 minutes (if some or all of the beans are older and bigger). Turn off the heat, use the mesh strainer to transfer the favas to the ice water bath, and let sit for a minute or two. Drain the ice water. Remove the outer coating of each fava by pinching one end of the bean and popping or slipping the bean out of the skin. (The two halves of the bean will separate.) Discard the skins.

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Heat an oven broiler to high and arrange one oven rack six inches from the broiler element.

(Or heat a gas grill to medium-high.) Brush each of the baguette slices with about ¼ teaspoon olive oil and arrange on a cookie sheet if broiling. Broil or grill the top side until Do this: Surrender to the golden brown. peaceful pleasure of shucking, blanching and shelling — in In a medium nonstick skillet, melt the 2 other words, it’s time consumtablespoons butter over medium heat. ing, but that fresh nutty flavor is Add the sliced shallots and cook, stirring, so worth it. until the shallots are softened and lightly browned (do not overbrown, as they Don’t do this: Buy fava become bitter), 2 to 3 minutes. Add the beans that have already been fava beans and remaining ¼ teaspoon shelled. Occasionally, you’ll see salt and cook, stirring, just until the fava these in the market. They’re beans are heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. not as fresh as beans still in Add the sherry vinegar to the pan and toss their fuzzy pods. And don’t the beans. Remove the pan from the heat overcook favas. Since you’ll and stir in 1½ tablespoons of the chopped need to blanch them in boilfresh mint and 2½ tablespoons of the ing water to slip off their outer Parmigiano. shell, they’re nearly cooked at this point and will need only a minute or two more in the sauté pan to finish.

Arrange two crostini on each of two small plates. Pile the favas loosely over the crostini and garnish with the remaining mint and Parmigiano. Serve warm.

Slightly Creamy Fresh Peas With Spring Herbs seRVes 3

Kosher salt 8 ounces shelled fresh peas (about 2 cups) or frozen peas (about 1½ cups) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions, white and light-green parts only (from about 3 large green onions) ¼ cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons finely chopped chives ¼ teaspoon (packed) freshly grated lemon zest, more to taste Freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh spring herbs such as parsley, chervil and tarragon (any combination) If using fresh peas, fill a large saucepan half full with water and 2 teaspoons kosher salt and bring to a boil. Drop the peas into the boiling water and cook until just tender (taste one or two), 2 minutes for smaller peas, 3 minutes for larger, older peas. Begin timing immediately; don’t wait for the water to return to a boil. Use a mesh strainer to transfer the peas to a dish towel or a few layers of paper towels to drain. Discard the water the peas were boiled in, but reserve the saucepan.

If using frozen peas, put them in a colander and run cold water over them for a few minutes until they are mostly thawed. Spread them out on a few layers of dish towels to drain and dry a bit.

Melt the butter in the saucepan over low to medium-low heat. Add the green onions and sauté until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the heavy cream, the chives, the zest, ¼ teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until it reduces and thickens slightly, about 1 minute. (A wooden spoon will leave a wide path when scraped across the bottom of the pan.) Add the peas and stir until they are heated through and wellcoated with the sauce, Do this: Boil the fresh peas just until about 1 minute. Take tender — no more than a minute or two for the pan off the heat, small peas, three minutes for larger peas. If stir in half of the spring your peas are superhuge, don’t even use them herbs, and taste for salt — they’re likely over-mature and starchy. Save and pepper. Serve them for soup, and (surprise!) opt for frozen immediately, garnished shelled peas; they’ll actually taste fresher than with the remaining older shelled peas. herbs.

Don’t do this: Buy already-shelled fresh peas. Just like favas, peas start to go downhill once they’re shelled. For a roast-lamb-worthy side dish, use only freshly shelled peas.

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Spring Lettuces With Caramelized Fennel, Toasted Almond and Sherry-Orange Vinaigrette seRVes 6

5 cups lightly packed combination spring lettuces (baby Bibb lettuce, mâche and other tender, loose-leaf lettuces such as oakleaf, Lollo Rosso, etc.), washed and dried well, torn into 2- to 3-inch pieces 2 cups lightly packed dark green baby greens (such as baby arugula, tatsoi) and a few sturdy, frilly greens such as frisée, washed and dried well, torn if necessary ¼ cup whole parsley leaves 2 tablespoons tiny whole mint leaves or torn mint leaves 1 tablespoon chives sliced into ¾-inch lengths 1 recipe Sherry-Orange Vinaigrette Kosher salt 1 recipe Caramelized Fennel, at room temperature 12 small pitted black olives, slivered lengthwise 2 to 3 tablespoons toasted sliced almonds, crushed slightly in your hand 42

Parmigiano-Reggiano or aged manchego for grating (optional) Set six salad plates on your counter. In a large mixing bowl, combine the lettuces, the greens, the parsley leaves, the mint leaves and the sliced chives. Drizzle on a small amount of the Sherry-Orange Vinaigrette, season with a little bit of salt, and toss. Taste and continue to add small amounts of dressing until the leaves are perfectly coated, but not overdressed.

Arrange the Caramelized Fennel (about 2 tablespoons per plate) in a circle around the inner rim of each salad plate. Arrange the salad leaves in delicate mounds in the center of each plate on top of the fennel (with the fennel just peeking out).

Do this: Make your own custom mix of Tuck a few slivered olives mostly buttery, tender small spring lettuces into each salad and sprin(lots of baby Bibb, please) with a little bit of kle each with the crushed the bolder, darker stuff like arugula and tattoasted almonds. If using, soi mixed in. lightly grate Parmigiano or manchego over each salad.

Don’t do this: Buy pre-bagged salad Serve right away. mixes shipped from far away. They won’t be fresh, and often these mixes have tough, oversized greens in them. And don’t skip the Caramelized Fennel — it’s an amazing secret ingredient, and you can make it ahead.

Caramelized Fennel mAKes eNough foR 6 sAlAds

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs (about 1¼ pounds), trimmed, quartered, cored and very thinly sliced crosswise (about 4½ cups) ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan with a lid, melt the butter with the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the fennel and ½ teaspoon salt, stir well, and cover. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until very limp, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Uncover, raise the heat to medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until the fennel is a deep golden brown (caramelized), 10 to 15 minutes more. If the fennel begins to stick but is not all golden brown, add a little water to the pan. Sprinkle the sugar over the fennel and stir to incorporate.

Add the lemon juice, one teaspoon at a time, scraping the pan vigorously with a wooden spoon after each addition to incorporate browned bits. Remove the pan from the heat and taste a bit of the fennel for salt. Scrape the fennel onto a plate and spread in one layer to cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Mix the chopped parsley into the fennel. It can be kept refrigerated for five days and is delicious served with roast lamb or pork.

Sautéed Sugar Snap Peas With Crispy Ham seRVes 3 to 4

1 teaspoon honey 1½ teaspoons sherry vinegar 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 1 small garlic clove, very thinly sliced (8 to 10 slices) Pinch red pepper flakes

Sherry-Orange Vinaigrette mAKes eNough foR ABout 6 sAlAds

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 1 tablespoon orange juice 1 teaspoon maple syrup ¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest Pinch kosher salt Freshly ground pepper Combine the olive oil, the sherry vinegar, the orange juice, the maple syrup, the mustard, the lemon zest, the salt and several grinds of fresh pepper in a small bowl. Whisk well to combine.

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint (divided) Kosher salt

In a small bowl, dissolve the honey in the sherry vinegar. In a small nonstick skillet, heat 2 teaspoons of the olive oil with the sliced garlic over medium-low heat. Simmer until the garlic is very fragrant and just beginning to brown around the edges, about 4 minutes. Add the pinch of red pepper flakes, stir, and heat for a few seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the honey-vinegar mixture, 1 tablespoon of the chopped mint, and a pinch of salt. Stir and set aside in the pan. (The mint will discolor).

Stack the ham slices and cut them across into strips that are about ¼ inch wide and 2 inches long. Pull the strips apart and spread them in one layer on the cutting board; they are much easier to add to the pan when they are not clumped together.

In a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot (it will loosen up and spread out), add the ham strips and toss to break apart. Cook, stirring frequently, until the ham is crispy and a dark, reddish brown, about 3 to 4 minutes depending on what kind of ham you are ½ pound sugar snap peas, tails removed using. Transfer the ham to a plate. Add the sugar snap peas and remaining one teaspoon olive oil to the skillet. Season the peas with ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the peas first turn bright green and begin to blister, and then turn golden brown in spots on Do this: Buy a really flavorful, good-quality cured both sides, about 5 minutes. ham such as prosciutto di Parma or jamon serrano — or even a good quality salami or sopressata.

Take the skillet off the heat and transfer the peas The meaty, salty kick is just the thing to contrast with to a mixing bowl. Drizzle with the warm garlicthe super-sweet sugar snaps. sherry vinegar mixture and toss well. Let sit for a few minutes to cool a bit, stirring once or twice.

Don’t do this: Undercook the sugar snaps.

Add half of the ham crisps and half of the Don’t be afraid to let them brown in spots; they will remaining sliced mint and toss well. Taste for salt. still be crunchy but will have a deeper level of flavor.

Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the remaining ham crisps and sliced mint.

1 ounce very thinly sliced (but not paperthin) good quality cured ham, such as prosciutto or jamon serrano

43

Brown-Braised Baby Artichokes and Shallots With Lemon-Garlic Bread Crumbs seRVes 3

2 whole lemons, cut in half (3 halves for the artichoke prep, 1 for the sauce) 9 baby artichokes 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (divided) 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 small shallots, halved and peeled Kosher salt 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth 1 recipe Lemon-Garlic Bread Crumbs Trim and halve the artichokes as described in the directions below.

In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan that has a lid, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Arrange the artichoke halves (with whatever water still clings to them) and the shallot halves (both cut-side down) in one snug layer in the pan. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt. Return the pan to medium-high heat and cook, without stirring, until the bottoms of the artichokes and the shallots are well browned, 6 to 7 minutes. (If the heat on your stovetop is uneven, rotate the pan so that the bottoms get evenly browned.) Pour in the chicken broth and cover the pan, leaving the lid slightly askew so that some steam escapes. Simmer gently, turning down the heat if necessary, until the broth is reduced to a few tablespoons, 12 to 14 minutes. Uncover, add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and squeeze the other lemon half (lightly) over all. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Taste for salt and immediately transfer all the contents of the pan to a serving platter. Sprinkle the Lemon-Garlic Bread Crumbs (you may not need all of them) over the artichokes and serve.

To trim and halve a baby artichoke:

44

Squeeze a drop or two of juice from the lemon halves into a medium bowl filled halfway with water. Cut the stems off the artichokes at the base. Peel away all of the outer leaves until you are left with a mostly lemon-limey colored artichoke (it will be somewhat cone-shaped) with the top third still being a light green. With a sharp knife, cut about ¾ inch off of the top, and cut the artichoke in half. Rub the cut side of the artichokes with one of the lemon halves and drop the artichokes into the water.

Lemon-Garlic Bread Crumbs YIelds A scANt 1⁄ 3 cup

½ tablespoon unsalted butter ½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic ⁄3 cup fresh bread crumbs (English muffin crumbs work great)

1

Do this: Brown the baby

artichoke halves well before adding the chicken broth to simmer. Browning equals extra flavor.

Don’t do this: Be scared of prepping artichokes. Baby artichokes don’t take tons of time to prepare (about 10 minutes in this recipe), because they haven’t developed that fuzzy choke in the middle.

Kosher salt ¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley In a small nonstick skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until it has softened and is fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds (do not brown). Add the bread crumbs and a small pinch of salt and cook, stirring with a silicone spatula to mix with the butter, until well combined. Continue to cook, stirring, until the crumbs are lightly toasted and golden brown, about 3 minutes. (It may be hard to see the browning in a nonstick skillet. The crumbs will feel lighter and crisper.)

Remove the pan from the heat and sprinkle in the lemon zest (you will need to break it up with a silicone spatula as it tends to clump) and the parsley. Transfer to a plate to cool.

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a

[ Morning cocktails get a wake-up call ]

47

By ASHLey GARTLAnD / pHoToGRApHy By MoToyA nAKAMuRA

Bloody Mary and mimosa might headline the brunch menu at Country Cat Dinner House & Bar, but that doesn’t mean they’re the sole stars of the morning cocktail hour. Rather, these ubiquitous eye-openers share the spotlight with the Maple Leaf, the citrusy G’morning Sunshine and the spritzy French 79th — all cocktails that hint at bartender Jessie Matthews’ mission to move beyond the mimosa.

Matthews isn’t the only local bartender set on shaking up the brunch cocktail scene.

At Toast, owner Donald Kotler mixes tequila, spiced rum and vermouth into cocktails for Woodstock regulars, while Accanto’s bar manager, Chris Grant, offers a vegetal Bloody Mary alternative that uses

Well, carrots are health food, right?

So a carrot martini seems like a reasonable way to start the day. Brunch-goers at Accanto can request the piccante Carotini. Bartenders all over town are mixing up bracing veg-based cocktails for brunch.

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carrot juice and toasted-cumin simple syrup. Cafe nell’s weekend “brunchtails” menu is the most expansive of them all, with classic offerings like a Ramos Gin Fizz and seasonal sips such as an apricot mint julep that take brunch-hour boozing to the next level.

“Brunch feels like its own specific event that demands its own cocktail list and drinks with flavors that go well with waking up,” says Cafe nell co-owner Darren Creely. Whether it’s a modern twist on a screwdriver or a booze-laced coffee, brunch cocktails are getting a serious makeover at local bars.

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Bartenders have long reached for neutral vodka to spike morning drinks, mainly because they didn’t think diners wanted to taste alcohol alongside syrup-laden French toast. Turns out, they were wrong: The surprise hit on Country Cat’s list is Matthews’ bright, refreshing French 79th, which marries sparkling wine with St-Germain elderflower Liqueur, rhubarb bitters and house-infused grapefruit gin.

“I was like, ‘Wow, people are getting their gin on in the morning,’ ” says co-owner and cocktail Bloody Marys will always be a favorite at brunch, but places like The Country Cat Dinner House & Bar (above) are shaking up the standards with seasonal fruit purees, floral liqueurs and other ways to wake up their brunch drink menus.

collaborator Jackie Sappington.

Creely also has watched Cafe nell’s brunch crowds embrace gin, particularly when bartenders mix it with aperitifs such as Aperol or anise-flavored pastis.

These aperitifs appear throughout the cafe’s menu in drinks like the Kearney Street Spritzer or Lillet Cocktail. “Aperitifs liven up your palate, especially when you’re drinking heavy coffee all morning and want to get your palate ready for brunch,” he says. even spirits like tequila and bourbon are crossing over to brunch. At Toast, Kotler mixes tequila with black currant purée, lemonade and ginger syrup in his popular Morning Glory; this summer, bourbonloving brunch-goers will sip apricot mint juleps and peach bourbon Bellinis at Cafe nell.

The MixerS Cocktails that entice customers to imbibe before noon often offset the alcohol with a nutritious element such as fruit or vegetable juice, says Grant.

That philosophy explains the appeal of the Bloody Mary and also the piccante Carotini Grant created for Accanto’s brunch menu. “When people see a nice, healthy orange martini glass going out, it sparks their interest,” he says.

Sparkling wine is another safe, familiar selection (hello, mimosas!), but it doesn’t have to be a boring one. Bartenders are employing seasonal fruit purées, floral liqueurs and aperitifs in bubbly cocktails to

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mix up the tired orange juicechampagne tradition. Whatever the pairing, sparkling wine’s effervescent character wakes up the palate and cuts through hearty breakfast fare along the lines of chicken-fried steak and buttermilk chocolate-chip pancakes.

Coffee, too, is an appealing choice, one that Matthews says attracts diners who want a jolt of energy with a hit of booze, whether a liqueur or a big ol’ shot of Maker’s Mark.

“We don’t do any flavorings for our coffees or espressos so people that like flavorings tend to go with a mixed drink,” says Matthews. “Instead of a vanilla latte, they’ll just get something with booze.”

The LocaTion Accessible morning mixers such as coffee, vegetable juice and sparkling wine make it easy for home bartenders to create new brunch cocktails of their own, particularly if they’ve got a stash of spirits to play with. An easy way to begin experimenting is to use non-alcoholic brunch beverage menus as a starting point for improvisation.

“Think about it as inserting liquor into coffee or orange juice or tomato juice — all things people want to drink in the morning,” says Matthews. “you’re not using Coca-Cola or Sprite because those aren’t things you think of drinking in the morning. Instead, ask how can you insert alcohol into morning drinks in an appetizing way?”

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The Country Cat’s French 79th 1 ounce grapefruit-infused gin (see note) ½ ounce St-Germain elderflower Liqueur

MAY �� � JUNE ��

3 dashes rhubarb bitters Sparkling wine pared grapefruit zest Fill a shaker with ice cubes and add the gin, St-Germain and rhubarb bitters. Shake vigorously.

Strain into a champagne glass and top off with a float of sparkling wine. Garnish with a quarter-size piece of grapefruit zest.

— From Jessie Matthews note: To make grapefruit-infused gin, pare the zest from 2 grapefruits (cut away any white pith) and soak in a bottle of good- quality gin, such as House Spirits’ Aviation Gin. Let the gin sit for 24 to 48 hours, then strain. £

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selects/albariÑos [ Fresh, fruity and so easy to be green ] By kAtherINe COLe

51

t might be Spanish by birth, but when it’s vinified to our liking, albariño is the vinous equivalent of Irish Spring soap: fresh and clean as a whistle.

Abundant with aromas and flavors of lemon, lime, grapefruit, white peach and honeydew, this zippy white loves the light pastas and delicate seafood dishes of the season. But it also has a macho side: Briny, minerally, herbaceous and acidic, it’s tough enough to take on salsa verde, leafy greens or white meats.

We recently sidled up to the tasting tables at the industrialchic Cork: A Bottle Shop on Northwest Lovejoy Street to taste through 23 brown-bagged bottles and choose some faves.

Overall, we found albariño to be solid, something we’d feel comfortable ordering off a wine list without recognizing the name of the producer. Nearly every bottle we tasted made us want to whistle a happy tune.

PAINtING By P. A. SArGeNt, 1950

THE RAIN IN SPAIN the majority of our albariños hailed from “the Ireland of Spain”: the rías Baixas (reeahss buy-shuss) appellation. this rugged northwestern coastal region, penetrated by two major rías (estuaries or fjords), is surrounded by water not only on many sides, but from above as well: It tops the Willamette Valley in annual rainfall.

Albariño thrives in its moist Galician homeland because it’s a thick-skinned grape, not

prone to the mildew and rot that dog our thin-skinned pinot noir during our own wet harvest season. And its zippy, citrusy profile makes it a winner with the fish and shellfish that dominate the cuisine of that corner of the Iberian Peninsula.

Just across the Miño (or Minho, depending on which side you’re on) river from rías Baixas is the Vinho Verde region on Portugal’s Costa Verde, or Green Coast. As verdant and fertile as Galicia

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ARGYLE WINERY MEMORIAL DAY WINE TASTING 52

~ May 29-30, 2010 ~

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thanks to all that rain, Vinho Verde produces an eponymous “green wine” that would make the Irish Spring people proud: the pale-to-green-tinted liquid is often found in a green bottle and is meant to be drunk young, or green. here, albariño is called alvarinho, and it’s a predominant variety, but not the only one used in the regional white blend. In fact, 25 different grapes are permitted. (Which got me into trouble when I neglected to check the grape content of our Vinho Verde contenders. I’ll try to dig myself out of this hole below.)

Vinho Verde is like the teenage sibling of rías Baixas albariño. Its aromas and flavors are similar, but younger and fresher. Its body is lighter and much less serious, with some soda-pop carbon dioxide fizz and an alcoholic content frequently as low as 9 percent. you typically won’t even find a vintage on the front label: turn the bottle around and look for the “Vinho Verde Selo de Garantía” seal; you’ll see a serial number followed by a slash, then the bottling year, which is like a freshness date. (Look for 2010s in stores soon.)

Since they’re so cheap, panelist Darryl Joannides suggested mixing these with juice and serving them over ice as spritzers. We all agreed that these bargain beauties should be drunk as soon and as cold as possible, so don’t cellar that Vinho Verde. Serve it from an ice bucket, as quickly as you can.

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reference books often refer to albariño as a high-alcohol wine.

Our palates led us in a different direction. Of our winning selections, the strongest was just 13.3 percent alcohol by volume; the remainder ranged from 9 to 12.5 percent.

We find this grape to be at its best when made in a light and understated style, which,

PANeLIStS Mary Cressler Certified sommelier (CMS), wine educator and proprietor, Vindulge.com Darryl Joannides proprietor, Cork: A Bottle Shop, corkwineshop.com Mimi Martin co-owner, the Wine and Spirit Archive educational center, wineandspiritarchive.com Martha Holmberg editor, MIX magazine Grant Butler critic at large, the Oregonian and MIX magazine Katherine Cole wine columnist, the Oregonian and MIX magazine

happily for us, translates into lower prices. this is a phenomenon we’ve seen before when tasting white wines: More aging time and more fiddling in the winery — resulting in creamy textures and oxidized flavors — doesn’t mean we’ll like the wine any better, and we certainly won’t pay more for it.

About half the wines we tasted fell into the $15-$20 price range, which seems to be albariño’s sweet spot. If you want to pay less, we’d recommend going for a cheap Vinho Verde. And if you like that richer, creamier style that we rejected, expect to pay more than $20 for albariño.

A pleasant surprise in this tasting was the strength of the American entries. Although they made up just four of our lineup, we found them all to be tasty and declared two to be winning wines. that success rate leads us to believe that albariño will have a long and glorious future on American soil.

Another New World region that shows great promise for albariño is Australia (where recent questions regarding the genetic identity of albariño vines have been resolved). But we’re thinking about all that rain in northwest Spain. Why don’t some of our Willamette Valley vintners follow the lead of

the WINNING WINeS CHEAP FACSIMILES

Broadbent Vinho Verde (bottled 2009; $10.50) A perennial fave for both Mary Cressler and me, importer Bartholomew Broadbent’s blend of loureiro, trajadura and pederna (also known as arinto) won over the rest of the panel as well. “It’s just so spritzy, with really nice lemon and citrus-rind notes. It was so lively and bright on the palate, I just really loved it,” enthused Mimi Martin. Noting its alcohol content of just 9 percent, Grant Butler declared it “the perfect summertime lunch wine that’s not going to make anyone take a nap after.”

70 40

Pinots

Wines by the Glass

2008 Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde ($10) Martha holmberg swooned over the rounder, oilier texture of the Aveleda, noting that “with food, there’s more dimension to it.” Martin suggested that this wine’s green notes would make it a nice match for spring peas. We’re looking forward to seeing the 2009 vintage of this blend of loureiro, trajadura and alvarinho in stores soon.

CLASSIC AND AFFORDABLE

2008 Burgáns Rías Baixas Albariño ($15.75) For Cressler, there was “nothing I didn’t like” about this label from the pioneering rías Baixas Bodegas Martín Códax. “this wine had more serious, complex flavors,” noted Darryl Joannides. Light lees stirring gave it some plush notes that I identified as lemon grass and coconut milk; Butler wisely recommended matching this beauty with a grilled white-fleshed fish such as trout.

NEW WORLD, NEW STYLE

2009 Odisea “Dream” Clements Hills Lodi Albariño ($17.25) Oregon wine-industry insider Mike kuenz is one of the masterminds behind this new California label. We tasted another wine (Bokisch) sourced from the same organic vineyard in the Clements hills district of eastern Lodi, but we preferred Odisea’s interpretation. But was it really albariño? Faced with New Zealand sauvignon blanc characteristics — grapefruit, grass, green pepper and tons of tropical fruit — some of us weren’t sure. “Is this from a more modern producer who’s trying to do something original?” holmberg wondered, before shrugging, “It’s very sexy. I could smell it all night long.”

NEW WORLD, OLD STYLE

2008 Abacela Umpqua Valley Albariño ($19) We were pleased to see our old Oregon friend, Abacela, make it to the final round of our blind tasting without any of us guessing that it hailed from the New World. Martin praised its “great fruity nose, like a tropical Lifesaver candy.”

Joannides liked its “good body and bright acid.” But at 13.3 percent alcohol by volume, the Abacela was a bigger, hotter wine than the lighter style of albariño we prefer. “the crazy finish killed it for me,” Cressler sighed. Perhaps the 2009 vintage, beginning to appear in stores now, will be a bit softer.

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GOOFY GIFT

2008 Mar de Frades Val de Salnés Rías Baixas Albariño ($25) Cressler and I praised the appealing notes of fennel, tropical flowers, lemon zest, brine and white pepper on this white … until we saw the price. “I would happily drink this if someone handed me a glass at a party, but I wouldn’t buy it knowing it was $25,” said a chagrined Cressler. But when we unveiled the strikingly tall bottle, tinted dark blue to protect its contents from sun exposure, we had second thoughts: Perhaps we’d splurge on this as a gift for a Spain-o-phile friend? And although the translation on the back label and Web site are unfathomably garbled, we still fell for “the mood-ring” — as Butler put it — gimmick: When the bottle is optimally chilled below 52 degrees (that’s mighty cold for wine, so an ice bucket might be in order), a galleon appears among the waves on the front label. Cool.

H[i[hlWj_edi +&)$--/$',,& (/' B_X[hjo Ij$ I; IWb[c" EH /-)&' mmm$X[djb[oi]h_bb$Yec

53

Lunch, Dinner Tues. 4-9 • Wed. - Sun 11am-10pm

•••••••••

Catering & Custom Smoking (you bring it, we smoke it)

o k m e S h o s ’ u y s a e l C 2932 SE Division St, Portland • 503-235-4755

54

selects/albariÑos cont.

Abacela in the umpqua Valley and give this grapevine a try?

WHAT’S WRONG WITH A CHEAP FACSIMILE? American labels tend to fixate on the vintner and the grape. european labels typically feature the region most prominently, followed by the name of the estate. the grape variety often isn’t mentioned at all.

Which is where I got into trouble in including some Vinho Verdes in our lineup this month. I absentmindedly assumed they were alvarinho (that’s Portuguese for albariño) blends. One of our winners was, but it was only 10 percent alvarinho. the other didn’t contain any alvarinho at all. Oops!

But here’s the interesting thing: As we were tasting these wines blind, we didn’t question whether they were made from albariño, because their characteristics were in keeping with those that we’ve come to associate with that grape: citrus, white peaches, melon, almonds and brine.

Whereas a grassy pure albariño from California tasted more like sauvignon blanc to us.

A quick glance at a genetic chart showing the close familial ties of some 30 grapes in the Iberian Peninsula put everything into perspective. turns out that, like one big Irish family, the grapes that make up the Vinho Verde blends we tasted are all cousins of albariño. Phew.

And so, reflecting on the european notion that grape variety is nearly negligible when it comes to terroir — it is, for Old World vintners, the location of the vineyard that matters most — I decided to include these wines anyway. the kid stays in the picture!

Because Vinho Verde offers all the citrusy frisson of a pure albariño at about half the price (they’re usually approximately $7 to $10), I decided to declare our winning Vinho Verdes a category of their own: “Cheap Facsimiles.” £

Where tO Buy CHEAP FACSIMILES Broadbent Vinho Verde (bottled 2009; $10.50): Alberta Co-op Grocery, Bales Cedar Mill thriftway Marketplace, Bales Farmington thriftway Marketplace, Barbur World Foods, eastmoreland Market & kitchen, Fred Meyer (Beaverton, hawthorne, hollywood West, Glisan, Northwest Best, Sunset, tigard, Walker road), Great Wine Buys, Lamb’s Wilsonville thriftway Marketplace, Market of Choice (West Linn), QFC (Barnes road, Grant Park, Mount tabor), Sheridan Fruit Company, Strohecker’s, Whole Foods Market (Bridgeport, Fremont, Laurelhurst), Zupan’s (Belmont, Burnside, Macadam) 2008 Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde ($10): Fred Meyer (hawthorne, hollywood West), Lamb’s Palisades thriftway Marketplace, Liner & elsen, QFC (Mount tabor), Strohecker’s, Whole Foods Market (Fremont, Pearl District) CLASSIC AND AFFORDABLE 2008 Burgáns Rías Baixas Albariño ($15.75): Fred Meyer (hollywood West, tualatin), Mt. tabor Fine Wines, New Seasons Market (Concordia), Whole Foods Market (hollywood) NEW WORLD, NEW STYLE 2009 Odisea “Dream” Clements Hills Lodi Albariño ($17.25): every Day Wines, Fred Meyer (Burlingame, hollywood West, raleigh hills, tigard, tualatin), Lamb’s Wilsonville thriftway Marketplace, Whole Foods Market (Bridgeport, tanasbourne), Wizer’s Lake Grove Market NEW WORLD, OLD STYLE 2008 Abacela Umpqua Valley Albariño ($19): Cork: A Bottle Shop (Alberta, Lovejoy), e&r Wine Shop, Fred Meyer (Beaverton, Burlingame, Gresham, hawthorne, hollywood West, Johnson Creek, Northwest Best, raleigh hills, Sunset, tigard, tualatin), Great Wine Buys, New Seasons Markets (all), Whole Foods Markets (all), Strohecker’s GOOFY GIFT 2008 Mar de Frades Val de Salnés Rías Baixas Albariño ($25): Fred Meyer (hollywood West)

a

pubcrawl

s our hemisphere tilts toward the sun and the bright half of the year, our thoughts lean toward getting outside. The good news is that it’s easier than ever to accompany adventures with good beer, because more and more adventurous craft brewers are canning their beer. yes, beer cans, which celebrated their 75th anniversary earlier this year. But canned craft beer? you scoff, but think about it: you’ve likely never had great beer out of a can because so far, not much 55 great beer has been put into a can.

“Cans have 99 advantages over bottles and one disadvantage,” said Jim Mills, owner of ashland’s Caldera Brewing, one of the first Oregon craft breweries to sell its beer in cans. Caldera pale ale and Ipa are available in 12-ounce cans. “That disadvantage is that the public associates them with cheap beer.”

[ Good brews can be found in humble packages ]

By JOHN FOySTON pHOTOgrapHy By raNDy L. raSMUSSEN

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pubcrawl cont.

But that’s changing, and fast, thanks to microcanning equipment developed in Canada and small brewers who are discovering that canning good beer makes perfect sense for them and their customers. Nearly 100 Canadian and U.S. craft brewers now offer canned beers, including Oregon brewers such as Caldera, Fearless Brewing in Estacada and Fort george Brewing in astoria, which plans to bring out its Vortex Ipa in 16-ounce cans in the next year or so.

Canadian laws allowed residents of two provinces to brew their own beer at brew-onpremise shops, thereby avoiding provincial and federal beer taxes. But customers still had to scrub dozens of empty bottles, or, worse, put their beer up in clear plastic soda jugs, and Cask Brewing Systems of Calgary, alberta, saw a market for a small, affordable canning line.

That market has since waned, but craft brewers are taking up the slack and then some, because here’s a way to can beer for a reasonable price.

Instead of processing thousands of cans a minute like existing industrial systems, these rigs crank out as many as 1,800 cans an hour and cost $10,000 to $50,000 U.S. instead of millions, so even brewers who can’t afford teams of telegenic Clydesdales can swing a small canning line.

“I was able to get a brandnew system for about $19,000,” says Ken Johnson, who opened Fearless Brewing in Estacada with his wife, Bennett, in June 2003. His is the latest Oregon brewery to join the canned craft beer revolution, and 16-ounce cans of his flagship Fearless Scottish ale should be available on retail shelves now. “I don’t think I could’ve found a used big system for less than $75,000 or $100,000, and then I wouldn’t have had the room for it.”

“I expect this whole market just to explode,” says Johnson.

“Cans are perfect for the way we live out here because you can’t take bottles to the golf course, you can’t take them out on the river and you don’t want to pack them in to your campsite. Cans are lighter, they chill faster and they don’t break — I want to have our beer at every golf course in Clackamas County.”

It seems that the microbrewing revolution has been supplanted by the microcanning revolution, and you, the beer fan who wants good beer on your next rafting or hiking trip, are the beneficiary.

Which may not be especially exciting news if all you’ve ever poured from cans are Silver Bullets and other straw-gold fizz. But there’s no reason why big beers can’t live and thrive in cans, said Oskar Blues founder Dale Katechis. The Colorado brewery bought one of the small canning lines early last decade.

“Cans eliminate light damage,” Katechis said, “and when properly filled, they hold far less oxygen than bottles. So our beers stay fresher longer — plus cans are less fuel-consuming to ship and recycle, and they make it possible to enjoy great beer outdoors.”

Keeping out the bad elements Light damage and oxidation are enemies of packaged beer.

Ultraviolet light destroys hopderived molecules called isohumulones, and creates sulfur compounds, which is why lightstruck beer is called skunky — and possibly why clear-bottled Corona is served with a lime to distract your tastebuds.

Brown bottles offer much more protection than green or clear glass, but beer can become light-struck in minutes in bright sunlight — and in time even under artificial light — so you’ll understand why Katechis makes a point of saying his beers have never seen sunlight.

Oxidation is caused by air trapped during packaging. It creates a stale, wet-cardboard

“Cans are pefect for the way we live out here because you can’t take bottles to the golf course or out on the river.”

flavor in the beer. although air trapped in a can could actually oxidize beer more quickly than in a bottle because of the greater contact area, modern canning systems purge air with a blast of carbon dioxide or nitrogen before the can is filled and the lid crimped on. In tests of Dale’s pale ale, the levels of dissolved oxygen were too low to be accurately measured.

But don’t cans have a metallic taste? Modern can linings eliminated that problem years ago, and Caldera’s Jim Mills is impressed with the difference between even massmarket beers in bottles and cans. “Taste a Heineken from a bottle and then from a can,” he says. “The malt and hops are so much more present in the canned beer. When a friend first tried canned Heineken against bottled, he said, ‘Whoa! That’s not Heineken — but I like it.’ ” But even though cans have all those advantages, there’s still that one little problem, “the belief that cans must contain pusillanimous, watered-down beer because they always have,” said Katechis.

“But the consumer perception issue just got us excited. Originally, we thought we’d brew for special markets where bottles aren’t feasible — rafting, golf courses and marinas. Then we thought, ‘Hey, we don’t want to

be just the boat beer. We want to be competitive with any premium beer.’ ” MacTarnahan’s Brewing was one of the pioneers in the late 1990s, canning Mac’s amber and Highland pale ale, though they packaged the beer at outof-state breweries that had canning lines. “That worked very well for us in extending the brand to marinas and golf courses and the like,” said MacTarnahan’s brand manager Mark Carver. “probably the crowning moment was getting MacTarnahan’s on alaska airlines flights.” MacTarnahan’s no longer offers canned beers, but Carver said pyramid Breweries, which now owns the Mac’s brand, plans to soon bring out its signature Haywire Hefeweizen in cans.

For the Fort george folks, cans have another intangible advantage in addition to all the other pluses: “Canning is so perfect a metaphor for astoria,” said Zetty McKay, wife of brewery co-owner Chris Nemlowill and owner of Coffee girl, the popular local coffee shop on astoria’s pier 39. “Canneries used to line the wharves in this town, so it’ll be good to have an astoria product in cans going out to the world once again.”

TER N U O C E CULTUR2010

SAVE THE DATE Thursday, July 22, 2010 A Pre-IPNC EVENT 6:00PM—10:00PM

57

Tickets on sale May 1st

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Are you looking for a charming Victorian cottage in the heart of Oregon’s Wine Country?

pubcrawl cont.

Welcome to Martha’s Cottage!

MARTHA’S COTTAGE A

W I N E CO UNTRY GUE ST H OUSE

Conveniently located near: Vineyards • Wineries Fine Restaurants • Galleries Museums • Antique Shops 101 Fifth St. Historic Downtown Dayton 971.241.8044

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Lunch Dinner Late Night Happy Hour 9:00pm

Shopping for canS

Most good beer sections in stores such as New Seasons, Whole Foods, select Fred Meyer stores and others carry some or many of the beers listed below.

Specialty stores such as John’s Market in Multnomah Village will have even more, and bottle shops such as The Beermongers (1125 S.E. Division St.) and Belmont Station (4500 S.E. Stark St.) have extensive selections of canned craft beers.

Caldera BreWiNg, ashland: One of the Oregon pioneers of canning, and Jim Mills is known as a great brewer who loves to make good, hoppy beers. Caldera iPa, ashland amber and Pale ale are excellent beers and are available in 12-ounce cans distributed around the state.

FearleSS BreWiNg, Estacada: The newest convert to the canning revolution, Fearless plans to sell only its flagship Fearless Scottish ale in 16-ounce cans for the time being, but that’s no bad thing: In a region of hop-besotted brewers, owner Ken Johnson is a master of malts, and his Scottish ale is a rich and satisfying beer. It should be widely available in good beer sections.

NeW BelgiuM, Colorado: The brewery’s flagship Fat Tire amber ale is widely available in cans, and the fact that I don’t think it’s the most exciting beer ever brewed has done exactly nothing to harm its massive popularity. Besides, the brewery is impeccable from sustainability and ethics standpoints, and they love bicycles.

OSkar BlueS, Colorado: a pioneer of the canning revolution and a brewery well-known for its big, bold beers: look for dale’s Pale ale, Ten Fidy imperial Stout, Old Chub Scotch ale and the newest, gubna imperial iPa. BuCkBeaN, Nevada: reno is not known for its great breweries, but Buckbean just might be one, and it’s well worth picking up 16-ounce cans of their unique beers, Black Noddy lager, a german style schwarzbier, and Original Orange Blossom ale.

21ST aMeNdMeNT, California: This San Francisco brewery makes that ridiculously refreshing and popular watermelon ale that is often the first beer to be drunk dry at the Oregon Brewers Festival. you can find Hell or High Watermelon in 12-ounce cans, as well as the more interesting Belgian-style dark ale called Monk’s Blood.

PyraMid BreWerieS, Seattle: They expect to have their flagship Haywire Hefeweizen available soon in cans. £

good cheese [ Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk ] By tami parr / photography By Beth nakamura

Name: red hawk milk: Cow (organic), from Straus Family Dairy in marin County, Calif.

age aNd look: 10-ounce rounds aged approximately four weeks

Flavor: Salty, meaty, pungent deliciousness driNk with: Big cabs, a sweet riesling, a creamy stout beer why we like this cheese: Big, bold and complex — a model for how good cheese can be.

Back in the early days of Cowgirl Creamery, cheesemaker Sue Conley was tending to a batch of one of their signature cheeses, mt. tam. one now-fateful day she realized that something had gone awry — the rinds weren’t ripening properly. after attempting a few fixes, Conley put the cheeses back in the aging room, hoping that they might turn out eventually. “i forgot about it,” says Conley, “and a few weeks later, found that the rinds were red, sticky and stinky.” the cowgirls were ready to throw out the cheese until they tasted it. “it was the most amazing cheese that we had ever made!” says Conley. and thus red hawk was born.

Cheese aficionados know that the reddish rind and stinky smell are characteristic of classic washed-rind cheeses. these cheeses typically are made in a more deliberate fashion than Conley’s initial insouciance, by washing the rind periodically in salt water. this painstaking process encourages the development of certain bacteria on the rind, which deliver the reddish color and distinct odor as well as the intense meaty flavor typical of this style of cheese. Cowgirl Creamery’s original location at point reyes Station in marin County, where those first red hawks came into being, is just a few miles from the pacific ocean, so no doubt the indigenous ocean breezes had something to do with its debut.

While the dense, salty flavor of this cheese grabs your attention right away — ok, so does the smell — you’ll also be seduced by its dreamy texture. red hawk is one of a growing number of domestic, artisan-made triple cream cheeses. to make a triple cream, cheesemakers add cream to the milk during the cheesemaking process. this increases the butterfat of the milk, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth silkiness that you won’t find in other styles of cheese. £

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eat here / manzanita

[ Laid-back beach town packs serious flavor ]

c

By ReBekAh denn / phoToGRAphy By ThoMAS Boyd

60

ABoVe: A filet of smoked salmon is the perfect flavor counterpoint to a glass of oregon pinot noir, which you’ll find in abundance at Vino, a Manzanita wine bar where you aren’t rushed out the door as soon as you’ve taken your last bite.

Top RIGhT: even in the worst of weather, you’re sure to see at least one person walking barefoot on the beach, like Adelle pickard, 14, visiting from Seattle.

BeLow RIGhT: Lots of oregon coast visitors stop into Cannon Beach, but 14 miles to the south on U.S. 101 is the quieter city of Manzanita, where the emphasis is on hot coffee, locally made ice cream, and wine and cheese — not touristy saltwater taffy.

oast travelers looking for a destination vacation often seek out Cannon Beach, with its landmark rocks, saltwater taffy and designated RV parking. That’s good. It leaves restful little Manzanita, 14 miles to the south, for us. This is not taffy territory; the first sign you’ll see pulling off U.S. 101 is a board at the wine and cheese shop, advertising homemade ice cream sandwiches. Manzanita is a tiny (735 full-time residents) town with big-city flavors, where it’s fine to wear flip-flops while scouting out fresh-baked chocolate brioche or Greek yogurt or grilled quail stuffed with pâté campagnola … or, if it’s more your speed, a hot dog and an ice cream cone. Just be warned that the dog, from a cart parked near the beach, also rates a point or two above the norm, with toppings that include neon Chicago-style green relish.

The uncrowded seven-mile beach is Manzanita’s main draw, but the winds often kick up in the afternoon, leaving big breaks for meals or for browsing through the double-handful of stores and galleries on Laneda Avenue, the main drag sloping gently down to the water. The few blocks of shops feel faintly overdeveloped compared with years past; it wasn’t that long ago that downtown not only had no spa, but also no sidewalks.

The mix of vacation rentals, second homes and hardy year-round residents now adds up to a very comfortable culinary mix of granola and gourmet, from the first sip of coffee to the final glass of tawny port.

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eat here / manzanita cont.

Manzanita news & espresso 62

Coffee, sweets and an unparalleled view After an early-morning search for sand dollars on the beach, we always hike a few blocks uphill for a high-quality dose of caffeine and sugar at Manzanita News & Espresso (500 Laneda Ave.; 503-368-7450). The coffeecake, with its sturdy, sweet base and crumbly top, might look suspicious with its individual plastic-wrapped slices, reminiscent of a repurposed Costco shipment.

But these killer pastries are fresh-baked and delivered daily from wanda’s, a sit-down breakfast haven as homey as a grandmother’s kitchen in nearby nehalem. If your sweet tooth is aching, go for a dessert-y lemon bar or brownie; if the opposite, the baristas can also serve up a plate of thick, plain slices of buttered bread, along with strong-brewed coffee made from organic, shadegrown beans from portland Roasting.

In the sunshine, sit outside and watch birds visit the patio fountain, but if it rains, the indoor barstools and tables are handy for browsing away an hour. The magazine selection, which takes up a big chunk of the front room, is big and eclectic, from hip Mama to local nature guides. Check out the latter to identify the city’s namesake

Bread & ocean bushes with their vivid red branches. warning: Come prepared, the business takes only cash and checks, and it’s possible to run up a bill bigger than pocket change after adding in a ceramic mug, a bar of Theo Chocolate and the latest newsstand glossies.

American fare with some Asian twists Julie Barker has cooked in this low-slung, garden-backed strip on and off since 1987, and she’s currently on — way on. Bread & Ocean (154 Laneda Ave.; 503-368-5823), her bakery-slashbistro, was remodeled a few years ago to expand the “tiny little galley” into a full-size production kitchen, turning out daily specialty breads such

as baguettes, rustic fig-walnut loaves and sticky cinnamon buns. Barker became a self-taught baker after deciding she was tired of line cooking at B&o’s former incarnation, but her morning breads and pastries are as professionally turnedout as her savory lunchtime salads, sandwiches and soups. She shoots for piquant flavors, infusing a gingery bite into an otherwise dainty salad made up of neat little rectangular batons of ripe fruit, or adding quince paste and aged manchego to a serrano ham sandwich. dinners are available Friday-Sunday, either in a carefully landscaped front garden or at the bakery’s six wooden tables, dressed up in white tablecloths and crystal. dinner entries are priced from the mid-teens to mid-twenties, heavy on

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Lo c a te d a t Twe n t y- S eve n “A” Ave nu e in pic t u r e s q u e d ow n tow n L a ke O s we go O p e n Tu e s d ay t h r u Fr id ay 10 to 5 : 3 0 , S a t u r d ay 10 to 4

Mother nature’s natural Foods new American cuisine, but with a mix of influences, including Thaistyle peanut noodles that Barker says customers won’t let her take off the menu. when she first tried it out — 17 years back — Asian food was a rarity in the region; old-timers retain a fondness for her version even now. For a lighter budget, go instead for a takeout picnic of breads, Fra’Mani meats, and an eclectically delightful collection of cheeses that included upstart star willapa hills, based in washington, long before bigger cities caught on to its charm. Cash and checks only, and expect a long line at peak mealtimes.

Packing a perfectly organic picnic Looking for organic buckwheat noodles, bulk supplies of steelcut oats, a bottle of fish sauce, a wrapped packet of locally raised lamb? Mother Nature’s Natural Foods (298 Laneda Ave.; 503-3685316) packs an astonishing assortment of useful, ethnic, organic groceries in its uncluttered warren of a storefront. The 15-year-old shop has the feeling of a co-op, but it’s owned by Jan and dan dawson, who make it a must-do grocery stop for food lovers cooking in rental homes or hotel kitchenettes. day-trippers can stop by for an organic apple (marked with its country of origin) or a pint basket of seasonal fruits (plump figs and small, sweet blueberries on our summer trip) from local organic suppliers such as kingfisher Farms. For a heartier snack, add a package of pita or naan and a container of house-made hummus from the refrigerator case, and grab a latte to go from the espresso bar. we can guarantee that if you want it made with soy instead of cow’s milk, they’ve got it.

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If pizza came out of a time machine Tired, sunburned beachgoers line up nightly for pies at Marzano’s Pizza Pie (60 Laneda Ave.; 503-368-3663), a comfortable time warp back to pre-fast-food days when hard booths, plastic fruit and kidfriendly straw cups didn’t always correlate with a mediocre meal.

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eat here / manzanita cont.

stroll to more than 20 restaurants in ten blocks visit dozens of wineries close by shop at unique boutiques, galleries and stores

unwind in downtown McMinnville

Oregon’s favorite main street!

I00000000000000000i

www.downtownmcminnville.com 503.472.3605

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927 SW YAMHILL

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Fresh Exotic Seafood Flown in from the Japanese Tsukiji Fish Market

BaRa

Sushi house

LiTTle b

Happy Hour

Live Scallop

Sunday-Thursday 5pm-6:30pm

all nighT Tuesday

5pm-9pm

OysTers on The ½ Shell PrivaTe TaTami Room Sunday-Thursday 5pm-9pm (please call for reservation) Friday-Saturday 5pm-9:30pm Live Amaebi

2625 SE 21st off Clinton

503.233.4100

www.barasushihouse.com

Vino pizza is solidly good at Marzano’s, which prides itself on homemade dough, fresh herbs, and a stone pizza oven. Big pies are seriously big — 18 inches — with a crust that’s sturdy, but not overly thick, and yeasty and pleasantly chewy at the ends. Get the best of both sides of the pie by going half-and-half with a roasted vegetable and a hearty mushroom-olive mix topped with house-made sausage. A side of Caesar salad comes crisp and, surprisingly, enjoyably heavy on the garlic. If Marzano’s has desserts, we’ve never seen them; we traditionally walk out the front door and turn left into the coffee shop next door for a sizable scoop of Tillamook ice cream.

time to linger over pinot Vino (387 Laneda Ave.; 503-368-8466), a warm, dimly lit shoebox of a wine bar, pairs a semi-sophisticated short menu with a friendly, welcoming vibe. owner dixie Lee doesn’t hurry out the couples quietly lingering over marcona almonds and lavender-rubbed chèvre, and she seems as happy to pour a generous glass of the rotating $6 house red as the brut champagne or tawny port. Sit at the bar or one of a handful of cozy dark wood tables, browsing a dozen or so wines by the glass and another few dozen by the bottle. The list is appropriately heavy on oregon pinot noir but ranges into napa and skips around europe to fill in the gaps. The menu is chiefly snacky small plates — charcuterie, cheese, salads — and the pies served for dessert come from the same small baking company that sells at the seasonal farmers market down the street.

mixpdx .com

In between eAts Browse at Cloud & Leaf (148 Laneda Ave.), a small but wellcurated bookstore featuring a table of new hardcovers and beach reads, but also shelves of literary fiction, history and memoir, and — fittingly, for our obsessions — cookbooks and essays on food.

Rent reclining beach bikes, street bikes or surfing gear at Manzanita Bikes and Boards (170 Laneda Ave.). The threewheeled beach bikes add

another dimension of fun for kids who get tired of sand castles; for a bigger change of pace walk them down to Manzanita City park at the corner of Third and pacific Streets, which has a playground and tennis courts. pick up a new board game, card game or puzzle at Overboard (457 Laneda Ave.), an old-fashioned game store. we bought a pack of the card game called Set, perfect for making your brain work overtime while the rest of your body relaxes.

part of Manzanita’s charm is that you can walk to whatever you need. If you’re up for a short drive, though — and a more strenuous outing — the Neahkahnie Mountain trail is an uphill climb through shady switchbacks, culminating in a view of Manzanita Beach. (Consult a trail map before setting out on the 3-mile round trip; the trailhead road is clearly marked on U.S. 101 between mileposts 41 and 42.) £

  NEW SPRING MENU 2 Food Specials

$

1406 SW Broadway Downtown Portland www.greathallrestaurant.com

503.477.7335

Great Wines, The Best Prices

Wine Xing

Cloud & Leaf Over 800 Wines!

25977 SW Canyon Creek Rd. Wilsonville

(Near Costco) 503.582.8355 WineXing.com

TO J I

Korean Grill House BBQ Your Own Korean Dishes on Table Top Spread Tues - Thurs 11:30am - 10pm Fri 11:30am - 11pm Sat 12pm - 11pm Sunday 5pm - 10pm

4615 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.

503.232.8998

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There’s no place like hip

our picks for what to eat where

scene

gus modern natuzzi italy calligaris camerich bdi nuevo

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ubhip.com

scene

our picks for what to eat where

Compiled by Grant butler

open daily 11-6 sun 12-5

1829 nw 25th portland 97210

Contributors Grant butler Karen brooks danielle Centoni leslie Cole teri Gelber david sarasohn Jake ten pas

503.225.5017

Get more of the Portland scene, at mixPdx.com

South of the border At these top-rated mexican kitchens, it’s a Cinco de mayo celebration year-round.

Autentica 5507 n.e. 30th Ave. 503-287-7555 autenticaportland.com owner-chef oswaldo bibiano, a semifinalist for this year’s best Chef northwest honors at the James beard Foundation Awards, grew up in a tiny town in Guerrero, a state on mexico’s pacific coast mostly known for its beach resorts of Acapulco, ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. bibiano intently labors in a tiny open kitchen, pumping out an

trébol impressive range of traditional and timeconsuming regional recipes, many inspired by his grandmother. much of the joy here is found in foods plucked and mopped with the kitchen’s terrific, fist-size homemade corn tortillas. in a style that’s easy to fake, bibiano is the real thing. does it get more authentic than that?

Cha! Taqueria & Bar 305 n.W. 21st Ave. 503-295-4077 chaportland.com if your idea of good mexican food is a plate of cheese-covered enchiladas served in a dive, this isn’t your kind of place. the dishes at this upscale dining room are focused on fresh ingredients; standouts include a trio of ceviches, and tacos built on photoGrAph by tim labArGe

Springtime is Brunchtime! scene tender, moist pork. Although offerings from the bar need fine-tuning — a mexican place with mediocre margaritas? hello! — the limited wine options are ideal for the spicy fare. in warm weather, the outdoor patio is an ideal spot for indulging in happy hour bites and watching the parade of shoppers go by.

Tortilleria y Tienda de Leon 16223 n.e. Glisan st.

503-757-7524 When you walk into this east portland grocery, it’s easy to be dazzled by the pastry cases with all manner of colorful mexican sweet buns. but when you head to the back, sweet flavors give way to savory at the terrific takeout counter, where substantial lunches are dished up with minimal fanfare but maximum flavor. the steam table is loaded with metal trays of spicy mexican stews, simmering beans, grapefruit-sized chiles rellenos ($3.50) and prepped carnitas tacos ($1.99) in homemade tortillas so hefty they can hold all the fillings without falling apart. the real lunch steal is a $6.49 combination, with rice, choice of beans and more than a half pound of stringy, tender carnitas. best of all are the pork tamales, which are loaded with smoky meat inside light, tender masa, for $1.25. Grab a couple and a soda and you’ve got a hefty lunch for less than $4.

Trébol 4835 n. Albina Ave. 503-517-9347 trebolpdx.com this mexican cantina pays serious attention to spices and peppers with superb south-of-the-border cocktails — including a fabulous margarita — that can quench any heat the food dishes out. try the oysters with jalapeño granita; guacamole, blended with caramelized garlic and serranos; queso fundido; Vera Cruz seafood stew; peach-jalapeño ice cream; and espresso pot de crème. A number of restaurants do better with appetizers than entrees, and trébol is no exception.

While some main courses are tasty, overall they lack the vibrancy of the starters. the service is friendly and informative, and you might even get a chance to practice your spanish. And the kitchen uses organic, sustainable produce and composts veggie scraps, and there’s a rooftop garden that reduces water run off. how many restaurants do all that?

Outdoor dining When the sun strikes, these restaurants move meals to patios and back decks.

Bernie’s Southern Bistro 2904 n.e. Alberta st.

503-282-9864 When the weather warms up, the action at this southern-fried diner moves from the cozy dining room to the secluded deck out back. it’s one of the most popular summertime spots for sipping sazeracs and hurricanes, while digging into terrific fried chicken, fried dill pickles and beef brisket that’s one of the best in town. but the secret is out about this outdoor enclave, so be prepared for a long wait for a table on weekends.

Equinox Restaurant & Bar 830 n. shaver st.

503-460-3333 equinoxrestaurantpdx.com the artistically designed patio is one of north portland’s hottest destinations for weekend brunch, where you get your steak and eggs and an eye-opening bloody mary with some oregon sunshine. the kitchen builds its dishes out of organic produce, hormone-free meats and cage-free eggs, so you can dig into that pepper bacon benedict and only feel guilt over the rich satsuma-harissa béarnaise sauce. there’s good peoplewatching from the tables, too, as indie-minded young folks head to nearby mississippi Avenue.

Mississippi Marketplace 4233 n. mississippi Ave. missmarketplace.com this unique pod of food carts opened up last fall just as winter weather was setting in. that didn’t stop crowds from converging on a unique array of eating experiences, with open-air seating under large protective tents. now, with warmer weather on the way, expect crowds to get bigger — especially as word gets out about all the good things to eat. Among the standouts: the big egg, known for its fried egg and monte Cristo sandwiches; the sugar Cube, with unusual cupcakes that are straight from the creative mind of baker Kir Jensen; Garden

Mother’s Day Brunch • May 9th • 10am to 3pm Mother's Day 3-Course Dinner • May 9th • 5-10:30pm • $35/person

Hotel and Spa Mother's Day Packages: www.avalonhotelandspa.com 0470 SW Hamilton Ct. | Portland, OR | 97239 | 503.802.5850

from

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Good thing we have a killer dinner menu, too!

to see our dinner menu: www.vinoparadiso.com DOWNTOWN

503.223.9510

PORTLAND AIRPORT

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417 NW 10th Ave 503/295.9536

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Portland’s best hangout?

Your Home!

Make boring rooms fun. Our furnishings can turn the living room into your favorite Saturday night hotspot.

BILLIARDS & MORE

WINGS

The Game Room Store 9385 SW Greenburg Rd. Tigard Near Washington Square

503-245-2100

www.billiardsandmore.com

Rated “Clucktacular” —Grant Butler, A&E

Best

In Portland!

Sandwiches & Salads, too.

Our 12 Homemade Sauces now available at Whole Foods & New Seasons

Now two Locations: 1708 E. Burnside Ave. 503.230.WING (9464) 4225 N. Interstate Ave. 503.280.WING (9464)

www.portlandwings.com

Haggis to Guinness 2010 Ireland & Scotland Tour

68

October 20-29

Come with us to the Celtic Isles and the first pint’s on Kathleen’s!

Book by April 30 and save $75 per person.

For full details call us or visit our website!

scene state, a new arrival this spring that serves a mean meatball hero; nuevo mexico, with heavenly sopapillas; and the ruby dragon, with an all-vegan menu that proves that great cooking doesn’t have to have meat, dairy and eggs.

Veritable Quandary 1220 s.W. First Ave. 503-227-7342 veritablequandary.com this longtime downtown restaurant has a serious kitchen that’s often overshadowed by its bustling bar scene. but the real reason to go here in warm weather is the large patio that’s surrounded by flowers, with Willamette river breezes carrying their fragrance aloft. For brunch, focus on eggs benedict or the terrific brioche french toast. At dinner, there’s the signature osso bucco or the crispy razor clams to tantalize the palate. Afterward, you can complete your outdoor experience with a stroll through nearby tom mcCall Waterfront park.

On the cheap places where stretching your dollars is easy — and tasty.

Pope House Bourbon Lounge 2075 n.W. Glisan st.

503-222-1056 popehouselounge.com When the brazen bean closed in 2008, portland lost one of its most inventive cocktail spots — and one of its smokiest dens for sipping, because it was a cigar bar where smokers were encouraged to light

Join us for First Thursday...

“Ireland Captured” May 6 • 5-8pm

Meet the photographer Greg Wahl-Stephens and enjoy his wonderful Irish collection. Plus, receive 20% off your entire purchase storewide! Refreshments served.

KATHLEEN’S OF DUBLIN 737 SW SALMON ST • PORTLAND, OR

503-224-4869 • 800-474-7499

w w w. K a t h l e e n s o f D u b l i n . c o m

bunk sandwiches

up. last summer, with oregon’s ban on indoor smoking in effect, the space reopened as the smokefree pope house bourbon lounge, where the emphasis is on American spirits and Kentucky-themed bar bites. Focus on the small plates, mostly bar basics with a bit of southern spin, four sandwiches and a couple of salads — nothing more than $8. A pulled pork quesadilla ($7) gets some sweet zing from a homemade bourbon barbecue sauce. Country fritters ($6) are perfectly fried puffs of cornmeal, ham and cheese, though they deserve a better dipping side than grainy mustard. the hearty Frito pie ($6) — a new mexican dish — puts chili, cheddar cheese and jalapeños over crunchy chips.

Big Kahuna’s Barbecue & Catering 7123 n. lombard st.

503-522-4012 bigkahunasbbq.com After taking a bite of a big Kahuna burger in the movie “pulp Fiction,” samuel l. Jackson intones, “i can’t usually get them myself because my girlfriend’s a vegetarian, which pretty much makes me a vegetarian.” so vegetarians, be warned: big Kahuna’s in portland might not be your kind of place. it’s all about the meat here. From huli chicken to ribs to kalua pork, brisket and sausage, along with that most hawaiian of meats, spam, big Kahuna’s brings mainland barbecue techniques and flavors to bear on the traditional hawaiian plate photoGrAph by motoyA nAKAmurA

little t American baker

G R E A T

Escapes

lunch. the ribs ($8.25) can be difficult to pick up without them falling apart, and the kalua pig ($8.95), or pulled pork, as we mainlanders refer to it, is equally tender and juicy. meats are served as they come out of the smoker, so add as much or as little sauce as you like.

Bunk Sandwiches 621 s.e. morrison st.

503-477-9515 bunksandwiches.com love hurts; ain’t it the truth? to get an incredible deal — swoon-worthy sandwiches made to order by a top portland talent — means a little suffering: waiting in line on a gritty sidewalk; limited seating, some of it staring at stacked boxes. And abandon all hope for food that is diethappy. bunk is, pure and simple, a Guy Zone: rugged, with full-on flavors and portions big enough for a man and his horse. And that runs from the ham-stacked po’ boy with green tomato pickles to a hulking parmesan meatball hero. these old-school classics and new-school alliances come from star chef tommy habetz, who walked away from the swanky set to open this sandwich shop last fall with culinary pal nick Wood. What does habetz bring to the sandwich board? years of experience, a great palate and deep heat for flavor-intensive meats and marinades.

Little T American Baker 2600 s.e. division st.

503-238-3458 littletbaker.com portland has one of the country’s most active artisan baking scenes, with at least a half-dozen serious places vying for our calories. so it’s no small feat that little t American baker opened in 2008 and swatted away much of the competition, its

reputation rising overnight for topnotch breads and pain au chocolat, plus some noteworthy baked goods served in a big, modern-minimal space. the baguettes are truly French, perfectly crusted with almost creamy interiors, and the olive slabs put other focaccias to shame. house breads are the basis for fresh, well-priced sandwiches ($6$6.50), including ham and cheese on chewy-salty pretzel bread. order anything featuring sally lunn bread, which shouts buttery goodness, from the Cowgirl toast (a warm, crispy — oK, heavenly — fried-egg-and-bacon sandwich, $5.50) to cake-like pecan toast ($2.25) coated with pecan cream.

Miho Izakaya 4057 n. interstate Ave. 503-719-6152 mihopdx.com the cute, hot-mustard-yellow house stands out amid concrete block buildings, motels and bars with screaming neon signs along interstate Avenue. look for the red lantern (a symbol in Japan for casual pubs) and if it’s lit, go inside! this tiny joint across from the Alibi is gaining a neighborhood following for its home-style Japanese cooking accompanied by curious cocktails, sake and beer. the menu is grouped by price, ranging from $2 to $10. lone diners can fill up on roast pork ramen ($6) with a seaweed salad ($4) nicely dressed with rice vinegar and petite strips of radish. if you’re a fan of kimchi, order the hot napa cabbage ($2) and start to sweat. locals rave about the calamari salad ($4), tender and delicate in flavor.

photoGrAph by steVen nehl

The Landing at Newport Discover The Landing at Newport, a 57-unit resort style condo-hotel. From glorious sunrises to magnificent sunsets, you will experience an ever-changing view of the beautiful Yaquina Bay and Bridge.

Located at the end of the historic Newport Bayfront, you can enjoy the fishing fleets, shopping, and fine dining.

Whether you spend your day beachcombing, crabbing, or sightseeing, or end your day relaxing next to a warm fire in the privacy of your home away from home, THE LANDING AT NEWPORT will be an unforgettable experience.

For reservations please visit our website at

800.749-4993 thelandingatnewport.com

The Glass Forge Gallery and Studio

We sell hand blown glass, specializing in Venetian style art glass. The style is most apparent in the many wine glasses blown at The Glass Forge.

Vases, bowls, perfume bottles, and one-of-a-kind sculptural glass art are also prominently displayed. The use of color, movement, form and composition can be experienced live at The Glass Forge. Call for details.

541-955-0815 www.glassforge.com 69

Silverwood Theme Park

Jump in the car for a short drive to Silverwood, the northwest’s largest theme park, a place filled with fun and excitement for everyone! Gigantic steel & massive wooden roller coasters, raft rides, a skyscraping drop tower, oceans of wave pools, slides & a laid back lazy river. Just north of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho on Hwy. 95.

208.683.3400 www.silverwood4fun.com www.3play.com/hotel

Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier

The perfect little Mt. Rainier resort, tucked in the national forest. Miles of hike/bike trails from your door. Explore all day, then swim in our pool, soak in our hot tub, or come to a bbq, bonfire or Rainier program. Charming suites & romantic honeymoon log cabin.

800.227.6475 www.altacrystalresort.com

LAUREL RIDGE winery

Open noon to 5 weekdays 11 to 5 weekends.

scene

neiGhborhood favorites doWntoWn/ chinatoWn

Carlton H e nd

s Rd. rick

99W

240

Newberg Dundee

Bridge St.

47

Ku eh n

laurel ridge winery

e R d.

Yamhill

Lafayette

13301 ne kuehne road carlton, 503-852-7050 w w w. l a u r e l r i d g e w i n e r y. c o m

Carafe: this feels like a real parisian bistro, doling out traditional dishes and well-selected wines.

A must for pre-theater dining before events at adjacent Keller Auditorium. (200 s.W. market st.; 503-248-0004; carafebistro.com) Chef Naoko Bento Cafe: one of tokyo’s pioneering organic chefs turns out authentic Japanese home cooking using top-notch local organic ingredients. (1237 s.W. Jefferson st.; 503-227-4136; chefnaoko.com) Clyde Common: Chic young locals and trendy out-of-towners commune over cocktails, and with happy hour bargains twice a day. (1014 s.W. stark st.; 503-228-3333; clydecommon.com)

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Good Taste Restaurant: What makes this an institution is the consistently gratifying goodness of won-ton noodles made with duck and homemade pork and shrimp dumplings. (18 n.W. Fourth Ave., 503-223-3838) The Heathman: A popular pre-theater dining spot that’s known for rich French dishes and an all-day thursday happy hour that ranks among the best in the city. (1001 s.W. broadway; 503-241-4100; heathmanhotel.com) Higgins: over more than two decades, chef Greg higgins pioneered connections with local growers and fishermen for vegetarian options, seasonality and dishes you didn’t encounter elsewhere. the constantly changing menu can sometimes seem

quirky, but it’s invariably interesting and skillful.

(1239 s.W. broadway; 503-222-9070; higgins.ypguides.net) Kenny & Zuke’s: An eerily faithful simulation of a new york-style Jewish deli, from the physical size and feel of the menu, to the selection of sandwiches, sides and entrees. the spin is that it’s all done portland-style, with house-smoked meats and house-baked breads and microbrews on draft.

(1038 s.W. stark st.; 503-222-3354; kennyandzukes.com) Mother’s Bistro: you go to a place called mother’s for comfort, and comfort is what chef lisa schroeder’s flagship restaurant provides in abundance. the wake-up menu includes amply portioned plates of eggs, omelets and scrambles, and a wild salmon hash. At night, don’t miss the matzo ball soup, and special dishes by a rotating “mother of the month.” (212 s.W. stark st.; 503-464-1122; mothersbistro.com) Nel Centro: the latest venture from chef david machado celebrates flavors of the mediterranean, with a particularly strong emphasis on seafood. in warm weather, the outdoor courtyard seating is essential. (1408 s.W. sixth Ave.; 503-484-1099; nelcentro.com) Ping: Chef Andy ricker changed how portlanders perceive thai food with his incredible pok pok. now he’s looking to change our view of Chinese food with this Chinatown venture and its menu loaded with grilled skewers, buns and noodles. (102 n.W. Fourth Ave.; 503-229-7464; pingpdx.com)

Saucebox: Affable, mohawk-wearing chef Gregory Gourdet, with his nyC pedigree, has boosted the kitchen’s consistency. dining in the glowy main room is as serene as the bar is thumping. All the better to enjoy the impressively rolled sushi or roasted Javanese salmon.

(214 s.W. broadway; 503241-3393; saucebox.com)

northWest Andina: the dining room remains an inviting spot for an upscale peruvian meal that will set you back about $100 for two, with well-executed main dishes, like braised pork tenderloin and grilled new york steaks. but the real fun is in the bar, where creative south American cocktails are a specialty.

(1314 n.W. Glisan st.; 503-228-9535; andinarestaurant.com) Bar Mingo: Chef Jerry huisinga helped make the legendary Genoa one of the crown jewels of the city’s dining scene. now as the kitchen honcho of this spinoff from next door’s Caffe mingo, he cooks homey italian, making everything by hand, from sausages to ricotta. (811 n.W. 21st Ave.; 503-4454646; barmingonw.com) BeWon Korean Restaurant: portland’s best and most ambitious Korean restaurant offers a wide range of dishes, including rice porridges, pan-fried seafood and pickled kimchi. (1203 n.W. 23rd Ave., 503-464-9222; bewonrestaurant.com)

for a comPlete listinG of our dininG revieWs Go to mixPdx.com

Bluehour: like your most put-together friend who always looks fresh from the regatta, bruce Carey’s pearl district flagship restaurant sails on, seemingly unfettered by changing tastes. Chef Kenny Giambalvo’s down-toearth evergreen hits, such as romaine spears with Caesar dressing, meltaway gnocchi and standup risotto, are rock solid. beyond the reliables, the menu breathes with renewed vigor, particularly seafood. (250 n.W. 13th Ave.; 503-226-3394; bluehouronline.com) Caffe Mingo: tables at this much-loved italian kitchen continue to be among the most sought-after along northwest 21st Avenue’s busy restaurant row. the allure is top-grade hospitality from owner and frontman michael Cronan and his convivial servers, combined with the winning pastas and risottos priced around $18 or less. (807 n.W. 21st Ave.; 503-2264646; caffemingonw.com) Fratelli Ristorante: italian cooking from a broad, appealing menu, ranging from bruschetta to homemade ravioli to slowcooked boar. you’ll find great happy hour deals at next door’s bar due. (1230 n.W. hoyt st., 503-2418800; fratellicucina.com) The Gilt Club: At this sexy restaurant, mad-scientist bartenders specialize in infused spirits and inventive Champagne cocktails, and the menu offers French-influenced northwest dishes with some complexity and finesse.

(306 n.W. broadway; 503222-4458; giltclub.com)

scene



DOC GEORGE’S AZZ

KITCHEN

Live Music Cozy Bistro Great Menu - Full Bar Open 11:30am Wed-Mon Happy Hour 4-6pm Dinner Specials ~ Wed. & Thurs.

46th & NE Fremont 503.287.7067

the people’s pig e

hiGh five sublime sandWiches because of the economy, affordable sandwiches continue to be one of the top food trends. And there are plenty of gems to be found beyond highprofile sandwich makers like bunk and meat Cheese bread.

— GrAnt butler Debris Po’ Boy at EaT: An Oyster Bar: less architectural than it sounds, “debris” is a new orleans expression for scraps of meat left in the pan, piled on a po’ boy roll. eat’s is less moist than many traditional versions, but the meat is tender and pungent, the bun crusty, and holding it all together is the “come-back sauce,” a Cajun rémoulade with maybe a little more cayenne than you were expecting. $10.

3808 N. Williams Ave. 503-281-1222 eatoysterbar.com Porchetta at The People’s Pig: defiantly set a block from the busy carts that line southwest stark and third Avenue and boasting a whiff of commie pride, the people’s pig seems like a cart gone rogue: establishing new cart territory and a menu that relies entirely on pork sandwiches. owner Cliff Allen is a pizzaiolo at nostrana restaurant, and it shows. to make his signature porchetta with parsley pesto, he layers pork belly, garlic and herbs

on a pork loin, rolls it up and roasts it. A slice yields deliciously crunchy outer pieces and moist fatty inner pieces, tucked into a crusty toasted ciabatta roll from Fleur de lis bakery. it’s deliciously porky, herby and greasy in the very best way. $8.

Southwest Stark and Second Avenue thepeoplespig.com

toasted brioche roll. butter lettuce and crunchy house-made red-onion pickles make this seasonal special feel like classic picnic fare, pumped up with blue ribbon ingredients. $7.

Multiple locations including 3425 S.W. Multnomah Blvd. and 2230 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. grandcentralbakery.com

Falafel at Cafe Velo: At this new takeout shop on the downtown transit mall, the falafel get a modern makeover far removed from its garlicky greasy ancestor. handshaped flatbreads, supple with olive oil and grilled to order, are layered with chickpea fritters and marinated vegetables, plus crisp fennel doused in excellent Katz meyer lemon olive oil. Watch for the addition of interesting local vegetables come spring.

A dab of harissa (north African spice paste) and some yogurt tahini sauce infused with saffron reveal the culinary muscles of this petite downtown kitchen. $5.

600 S.W. Pine St. 503-719-0287 cafe-velo.com

Bahn Mi at Best Baguette: A contender for beaverton’s best Vietnamese submarine sandwiches can be found at a place that looks like a fast-food joint. With its tubby little mascot cartoon character and sterile, bright decor, best baguette, with two locations, is poised to become the micky d’s of bahn mi. but we’re not complaining. the footlong baguettes, baked every hour, are true and proper: shatteringly crisp outside and airy light within. the extensive menu of well-prepared fillings will please the traditionalists (decadent pâté and head cheese, $2.95) and the timid (savory grilled beef, $3.50). there’s even a breakfast version, the pork roll with egg ($3.35). still, the classic daikon and carrots garnish lacks the tart pickling flavor that adds its own flavor punch and cuts through the rich flavors of the fillings.

3635 S.W. Hall Blvd., Beaverton 8303 S.E. Powell Blvd., Portland bestbaguettesandwiches.com

The Blue Ribbon at Grand Central Bakery: like your steak with a dollop of roquefort sauce? then rejoice at the blue ribbon, in which thinly sliced smoked grass-fed beef from oregon’s highland oak ranch collides with a pungent buttermilkblue-cheese mayonnaise on a

photoGrAph by JAmie FrAnCis

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STEIFF TRUNK SHOW June 6th 11am-3pm 2010 Event Bear Don’t miss it!

118 NW 23rd • Portland 503-223-4048 1-800-223-5886 FAX 503-225-5892 www.christmasatthezoo.com

one sHot

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Happy Birthday, Jimmy We can see in this photo that James Beard is pouring water from one skillet to another, while Fred Wessinger “looks on,” as they say.

(Wessinger was brewer Henry Weinhard’s great-grandson.) So we can describe it, but we can’t explain it. And yet we can enjoy it, because we love James Beard, no matter what odd thing he’s doing. We like to claim James Beard as our own because he was born in Portland (May 5, 1903) and spent his early life here, but he belongs to the whole country as one of America’s culinary icons. Fitting with his Oregon roots, he was a total pioneer, blazing the sometimes visionary, sometimes crassly commercial trail for the Paulas and Giadas and Emerils to come. Back in the day, Beard had TV shows, cookbooks, cooking schools, restaurant consulting and product endorsements. Sound familiar? But what was really avant-garde was his championship of American cooking and American ingredients … something our modern Oregon chefs know all about. PHOTOGRAPH, THE OREGONIAN, 1973