November 09 Portland’s Magazine of Food + Drink
Special collection! 10 menus and 51 recipes that will make you a brilliant cook
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NOVEMBER 2009
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THE DINNER PARTY ISSUE
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Inspired choices. Delicious meals. Makes about: 6 to 8 servings Prep and cook time: about 1½ hours 2 packages (3-oz. each) Primo Taglio® Pancetta, chopped 1 medium onion, cut in half and thinly sliced 8 oz. fresh sliced mushrooms ¼ cup dry white wine 4 large eggs, at room temperature ¾ cup Lucerne® heavy or whipping cream ¾ cup shredded Primo Taglio Parmigiano Reggiano ¼ teaspoon dried pepper flakes 1 pound O Organics™
Spaghetti
Parmigiano Reggiano Hand-made in Italy using a seven-century-old process, this Parmesan is aged for 24 months to achieve a seductive aroma and a unique, flavor taste. Low in fat and cholesterol.
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Spaghetti Carbonara A classic Italian pasta! Serve with salad and crusty bread for a true Italian feast. In a large skillet over medium heat, cook pancetta, stirring often, until fairly crisp. Drain on paper towel. Cook onion in drippings in skillet, stirring frequently over medium-high heat until beginning to soften, about 7 minutes. Add mushrooms and wine; cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a bowl, whisk eggs and cream. Stir in Parmigiano Reggiano, pepper flakes, salt and black pepper to taste. Cook pasta in boiling water until tender. Drain reserving ½ cup pasta water. Return pasta to cooking pot. Immediately
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than most. Mind you, over the years our beer has witnessed the odd change or two. For instance, our customers no longer drink it to ward off the Plague, as they used to in medieval times. However, one thing has stayed
Of course it tastes better than other beers. We’ve had over 600 years to get the recipe right. Our esteemed brewery has been producing beer in Leuven since 1366. Which means we’ve been around a bit longer
PARTY ISSUE My vision of heaven is a giant, never-ending dinner party.
I love having people over and cooking for them, and I could do it every day for the rest of my life (provided someone else addressed the dirty-dish problem). From thinking of who would be fun to invite, to planning what recipes play well together, how to set the table, what to drink and then spending those focused few hours in the kitchen pulling it all together, hosting a meal is a highly creative act. Oh, and then you get the fun that starts when the doorbell rings. Drinks, yummy food and the easy laughter and conversation that flows long into the night – there’s nothing better. Because the experience is centered around food, the food needs to be good, so we’ve gathered some of our favorite recipes from the last two years and fashioned them into menus, sort of a re-MIX issue. You can make the menus as we’ve proposed or mix it up with your own favorite recipes. We’ve included wine-pairing suggestions for each menu, as well as cocktail recipes and three examples of a cheese course, so you’re covered from beginning to end. And there are more recipes for food and drinks on mixpdx.com, in case you’re like me and want to cook forever. — MARTHA HOLMBERG PHOTOGRAPH BY ADAM LEVEY
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dinner party menus Latin fever
Asian fusion
Summer dreaming
Excellent Margaritas 12
Peking Duck Pancakes 18
Avocado and Tomatillo Salsa 12
Seasoned Ground Chicken and Pork (Tsukune) 19
Grilled Garlic-Rubbed Bread Topped With Arugula, Lemon and Grana Padano 24
Grill-Roasted Pork Marinated in Orange Juice and Spices (Cochinita Pibil) 13
Miso-Glazed Scallops 19
Quick Chicken Mole 14
Nepalese Spicy Shredded Chicken (Chwelah) 20
Zucchini “Pasta” Salad 14 Extra Bittersweet, Very Gooey Brownies 15
Maguro Poke 19
Cinnamon Panna Cotta With Coffee-Caramel Sauce 21
Fancy vegetarian
Steak and salad
Avocado and Goat Cheese Dip 30
Roasted Red Bell Pepper Soup With Minted Crème Fraîche 36
Pumpkin Sformato With Balsamico Condimento 30
Summer Squash and Tomato Gratin 25 Herbed Pork Roulade 26 Cornmeal Shortcakes With Berries and Brown Sugar Whipped Cream 27
Both sides of the Mediterranean Fava Bean and Fresh Mint Tapenade 40
Panzanella Salad 36
Saffron Rice 40
Polenta With Mushroom Ragoût 31
Grilled Grass-Fed Steak With Salsa Verde 37
Ras Al-Hanout Spiced Chicken Tagine 41
Winter Greens Salad With Crisp Vegetables and Pumpkinseed Oil Vinaigrette 32
Milk Chocolate Gelato With Toasted Whole Hazelnuts 38
Chocolate Harissa 41 Glazed Fresh Figs With Honey-Rum Zabaglione 43
Mocha Bread Pudding 33
Fish in a spring state of mind Zesty Feta Cheese Appetizer 46 Crepes With Pesto and Arugula 47 Roasted Cauliflower With Lemon, Capers and Parsley 47 Roasted Halibut With Green-Olive Relish 48 Strawberry Fool With Cornmeal Shortbread 49
Dressy dinner
Not a light menu
Tender Greens With Herb and Lemon Goat Cheese Crostini 52
Italian Gougères 58
Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup With Dill and Sour Cream 53 Braised Chicken With Buttery Leeks 54 Pear Crostata With Warm Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream and Black Pepper 55
A small guide to cheese courses 68
Bagna Cauda With Crudités 64
A list of who created the food 71
Spaghetti alla Puttanesca 65 Hazelnut Crisp With Berries and Peaches 66
Shaved Fennel, Arugula and Tomato Salad With Olive Vinaigrette 59 Three-Cheese Polenta 59 Brussels Sprouts With Lemon and Dill 60 Beef Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine 60 Deep, Dark Chocolate Tart 61 M.P. Roux Whipping Cream 61
Pretend we’re Italian
Prosciutto Pizza With Arugula and Parmesan Salad 64
Sautéed Swiss Chard 42
An easy way to look for recipes 72 Wine and food pairings on the first page of each menu, created by Katherine Cole, wine columnist for MIX and The Oregonian
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Latin fever
Margaritas ignite the party, and chile-stoked dishes continue the buzz. Even the brownies have a teeny chipotle kick, but no fear — there’s plenty of balance to all these recipes. Excellent Margaritas Avocado and Tomatillo Salsa Cochinita Pibil Quick Chicken Mole Zucchini “Pasta” Salad Extra Bittersweet Brownies 11
Thinking about drinking / With this Hispanic-inspired menu, let’s stick with south-of-the-border wines. Por qué no? Let’s begin with a torrontés from Argentina, which will play up the herbaceous notes of the salsa and the zucchini dish. The white-hottest of these whites at the moment is the Crios, from superstar winemaker Susana Balbo. Luscious with notes of kiwi, passionfruit, lime and chiles, it sells for approximately $15 and has the depth to stand up to heartier fare, like the
mole-slathered chicken and roasted pork. Now for a couple of rich reds: carmènére from Chile and malbec from Argentina. Both can carry your meal all the way from its savory stage to its chocolate finish. Carmèneres are ridiculously inexpensive right now, and they’re spicy with hints of molasses that would be the perfect match for mole. Look for the Calina or the Carmen, and don’t spend much more than
$10, because you don’t have to. Malbec offers a chance to splurge a little — but not a lot. One of our faves, the Tahuan Ernesto Catena Selection, sells for about $20. Keeping it all within the family, the Catena-owned mega-label, Alamos, turns out the most reliable malbec in Argentina for just about $12.
LATIN FEVER
Excellent Margaritas MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
The longer the citrus zest and juice mixture is allowed to steep, the more developed the citrus flavors will be in the finished margaritas. We recommend steeping for the full 24 hours, although the margaritas will still be great if the mixture is steeped only for the minimum four hours. If you’re in a rush and need to serve the margaritas immediately, omit the zest and skip the steeping process altogether. The original recipe called for crushed ice, but we use regular cubes. 4 teaspoons grated lime zest ½ cup lime juice (2 to 3 medium limes) 4 teaspoons grated lemon zest ½ cup lemon juice (2 to 3 medium lemons) ¼ cup granulated sugar Pinch salt 3 to 4 cups ice cubes 1 cup 100 percent agave tequila, preferably a Reposado 1 cup triple sec liqueur In large liquid measuring cup, combine lime zest and juice, lemon zest and juice, sugar and salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until flavors meld, 4 to 24 hours. Divide half the ice among 4 to 6 margarita or double old-fashioned glasses. Strain juice mixture into 1-quart pitcher or cocktail shaker. Add tequila, triple sec and remaining ice; stir or shake until thoroughly combined and chilled, 20 to 60 seconds. Strain into ice-filled glasses; serve immediately.
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— Cook’s Illustrated magazine
Avocado and Tomatillo Salsa MAKES 8 SERVINGS
10 tomatillos 1 clove garlic 1 fresh serrano chile, cored and seeded Kosher salt 1 ripe avocado
Peel the husks off the tomatillos and wash the fruit well (they can be sticky). Put the tomatillos, garlic and chile in a blender or food processor and purée; season generously with salt to taste. Put the avocado in a serving bowl and smash it with a fork. Pour the salsa on top and fold to blend slightly; the salsa should be chunky. — Gilberto Martín del Campo
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARTIN THIEL ^ AND MIKE DAVIS >
Grill-Roasted Pork Marinated in Orange Juice and Spices (Cochinita Pibil) MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Juice of 3 oranges (about ¾ cup) 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 6 cloves garlic 1 3½-ounce pack achiote paste (ground annatto seasoning) 1½ tablespoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican 6 pounds pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 pack banana leaves (sold at the Latin and Asian markets; see note) Corn or flour tortillas for serving Put the orange juice, vinegar, garlic and achiote in a blender and blend. Add oregano and season to taste with a little salt and additional vinegar, if needed (marinade should be fairly tart and salty). In a large bowl toss the cubed pork with marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, drain the excess marinade from the pork. Add the 2 tablespoons salt and toss to distribute. Lay out a layer of banana leaves, pile the pork on top and enfold it in the leaves, then double wrap in aluminum foil. Set the packet on a disposable baking dish or pie tin. Heat a gas grill to medium-low (see note), or for a charcoal grill, light about 20 briquettes; when they’re covered in white ash, they’re ready. Set the pan on the grill grate and cover. Let cook slowly until the pork is extremely tender when pierced with a knife, 3 to 4 hours. (If using a charcoal grill, check on the fire occasionally; you will need to add fresh charcoal as the fire dies down.) You can cook the pork the morning of the day you want to eat it, or a day ahead. To reheat the pork, heat in a 350degree oven still wrapped in leaves and foil for about 30 minutes, or until heated through. Taste and adjust salt, if necessary, before serving. To serve, pile the pork onto a platter and let people fill tortillas to make tacos with it, or eat it as is. Note: If you can’t find banana leaves, use a few sheets of parchment paper, plus the foil. Note: To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 5 to 4 seconds for medium-low. — Gilberto Martín del Campo PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
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LATIN FEVER
Quick Chicken Mole MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Serve this mole over rice or with fresh, warm tortillas. Ancho chile powder is available at many supermarkets; it also can be prepared from whole dried chiles by toasting them lightly in a skillet, discarding the seeds and grinding in a spice grinder. 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained and squeezed dry
Adjust oven rack to within 5 inches of broiler element and heat broiler. On a rimmed baking sheet toss together toma1 small white onion, chopped coarsely toes, onion, garlic and 1 tablespoon of the oil; season generously with salt and pep6 cloves garlic per. Broil mixture, stirring often, until it’s 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons vegetable or browned and blackened in spots and toolive oil (divided) matoes are dried out and withered, 8 to 12 minutes. Salt and freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup hot brewed coffee ¼ cup raisins 4 teaspoons ancho chile powder 2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa ½ teaspoon ground allspice 1 canned chipotle chile
Meanwhile, in a blender jar combine coffee, raisins, ancho powder, cocoa and allspice and allow to sit for at least 5 minutes. Add tomato mixture to blender along with chipotle chile, brown sugar, pepitas, chicken broth and 2 more tablespoons oil. Process until mixture is smooth and thick; adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Season chicken with salt and pepper and heat remaining 2 teaspoons of oil in large 1 skillet set over high heat until smoking. Dis⁄3 cup pepitas (shelled pumpkin seeds), tribute chicken in a single layer and cook, lightly toasted (see note) without stirring, until browned, about 5 1 cup chicken broth minutes. Stir and cook until chicken is uniformly opaque and browned in spots, 1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat and cut cross- about 4 minutes longer. Stir in mole sauce, reduce heat to medium low, and simmer wise into thin slices until chicken is cooked through and the 3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves sauce has thickened, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve topped with cilantro and accompanied by 1 lime, cut into wedges for serving lime wedges, sour cream and tortillas. Sour cream Note: To toast pumpkin seeds, spread on baking sheet and bake in a 350-degree Flour or corn tortillas oven for 3 to 5 minutes or until brown. 4 teaspoons firmly packed brown sugar
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— Matthew Card
PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
Zucchini ‘Pasta’ Salad MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
6 small to medium zucchini (about 1¾ pounds total) 1 large cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded and thinly sliced into crescents ¾ cup finely chopped Walla Walla or other sweet onion 1 cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped 1 preserved lemon, finely chopped, or the zest of 1 lemon ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons walnut oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Trim the ends of the zucchini and slice them lengthwise extremely thin, using a mandoline. Discard each first strip, which is mostly peel. Slice up to the seeded core on one side, then turn zucchini and repeat on the other side until only a rectangle of core remains; discard core. Place all sliced zucchini in a large bowl. Add cucumber, onion, mint and preserved lemon. Whisk lemon juice and walnut oil in a small bowl, then pour over zucchini mixture. Toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. — Peter Szymczak
French Hair Cutting Color & Treatments 17 years of experience Formerly at Magnum Opus Certi¿ed Educator
Kelly Hilligoss
Extra Bittersweet, Very Gooey Brownies MAKES TWELVE 3-INCH BROWNIES
These are based on the recipe for Brownies Cockaigne from “Joy of Cooking,” but Sarah Hart doubles the chocolate and uses bittersweet instead of unsweetened baking chocolate and reduces the sugar. She also likes to add cocoa nibs, which are weirdly crunchy in this recipe, but addictively good, too. The chile powder and cinnamon give the brownies a Mexican flavor.
626 NW 12th | Portland, OR 97209 503.516.5539
½ cup unsalted butter (1 stick) 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped (at least 70 percent cacao) 4 eggs, at room temperature
Mika
¼ teaspoon salt 1½ cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 teaspoons chipotle chile powder (optional)
J a p a n e s e · F o o d
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
Join us before or after a show at the Keller! We Serve Wild Alaskan King Salmon.
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour 1 cup cocoa nibs (optional) Vanilla bean ice cream (optional) Heat oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-by-13-inch pan. Melt the ½ cup butter and the chocolate together in a double boiler (a stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water; don’t let the water touch the bottom of the bowl). You can also melt the butter and chocolate using 30-second bursts in the microwave, stirring often. Let this mixture cool (if you don’t, your brownies will be heavy and dry). Beat the eggs and salt together until light and foamy. Add the sugar and vanilla gradually and beat until well-blended. If using the chile powder and/or cinnamon, sift them with the already-sifted flour. With a few swift strokes of a wide wooden spoon or rubber spatula, mix the butter and chocolate with the egg/sugar/vanilla mixture. Then fold in the sifted flour. If using the cocoa nibs, fold them in now. Scrape the batter into the prepared baking pan and bake until the surface seems firm and dry, about 25 minutes. Because these are double chocolaty they will be pretty darn gooey, so the “toothpick test” may not be helpful. Cool slightly and serve warm with vanilla bean ice cream. — Sarah Hart PHOTOGRAPH BY MARTIN THIEL
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Happyy Hour 2-7pm 2
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Asian fusion
Lots of little dishes come together to make one big, happy meal, full of peace, love and Asian-inspired yumminess. You can pick just a few recipes or make them all. Peking Duck Pancakes Chicken and Pork Tsukune Miso-Glazed Scallops Maguro Poke Nepalese Shredded Chicken Cinnamon Panna Cotta With Coffee-Caramel Sauce 17
Thinking about drinking / Is there a law that says you must serve a red wine at every dinner party? We don’t think so. That’s why, with these delicately spiced dishes, we’re going to declare a White Night. Just because we’re going all white doesn’t mean you must stick with all grape. If you’re in the neighborhood, pop into Uwajimaya and pick up a nice bottle of plum wine — no, that’s not an oxymoron — or a sweet, unfiltered nigori sake, which looks and tastes delightfully like coconut milk (be sure to keep the bottle chilled until you serve it). Both would be killer with this lineup. But if you prefer European wines, you probably already know the classic match for Asian cuisine is riesling. A German spätlese
from the Mosel, such as the Ackermann Zeltinger Schlossberg ($24) is simultaneously fresh and sweet, with the minerality and acidity to work with a variety of dishes. Another option: a voluptuous Oregon pinot gris. I’m thinking of the Siltstone Guadalupe Vineyard ($16). Its ripe cantaloupe notes and mouth-coating viscosity are countered by a flinty firmness and initial hit of spritz. Or consider a chenin blanc from the Loire Valley village of Vouvray. Floral and fruity, this white can be compelling when paired
with exotic spices. Look for the honeyed “Le Bouchet” bottling (approximately $25) from François Chidaine. For a final flourish, serve a Tokaji from Hungary, such as the 2002 Oremus Late Harvest (about $29 for a 375-milliliter half-bottle). Its refreshing acidity is palatecleansing alongside a creamy panna cotta; and with its notes of ripe pear and apricot plus honey, toffee, caramel and hazelnut, it’s a dessert all on its own.
HOW TO
LIVE UNITED: JOIN HANDS. OPEN YOUR HEART.
THINK OF WE BEFORE ME. GIVE. ADVOCATE. VOLUNTEER.
LIVE UNITED
ASIAN FUSION
Peking Duck Pancakes MAKES AS MANY AS YOU WANT
Flour tortillas or packaged crepes Hoisin sauce in a jar Peanut butter Dark sesame oil Sliced roasted duck (from 1 Peking duck, or you can really cheat and use rotisserie chicken) Green onions, thinly sliced diagonally Use a 2-inch biscuit cutter to cut tortillas into small rounds. Mix 3 parts hoisin sauce to 2 parts peanut butter and 1 part sesame oil. Put a dollop of sauce on each tortilla round, add a slice or two of duck and a sprinkle of green onions.
TM
— Randal St. Clair
United Way of the Columbia-Willamette
Learn more and get a free LIVE UNITED t-shirt (while supplies last):
www.unitedway-pdx.org/lu
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mediterranean bistro wood oven pizza - pasta - fine wines
dinner & cocktails from 5 pm tuesday-sunday closed mondays
happy hour 4:30 to close tuesday-saturday
reservation: 503-297-0360 4775 sw 77th ave. portland, or 97225 www.LaPrimaPortland.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
Seasoned Ground Chicken and Pork (Tsukune) MAKES 6 SMALL SERVINGS
You can find flat, forked bamboo skewers about 4 inches long for serving the tsukune at Asian markets, but it’s fine to serve them without the skewers. 12 ounces ground chicken, preferably thigh meat 4 ounces ground pork 1½ tablespoons well-beaten egg (about ½ egg) 1½ tablespoons grated fresh ginger ¼ cup thinly sliced green onions ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil About 1 teaspoon soy sauce Chinese-style mustard, for serving In a medium bowl, thoroughly mix ground chicken, ground pork, egg, ginger, green onions and salt. Dampen your hands with cold water and form mixture into 6 logs about 4 inches long and 1½ inches thick. Heat a large skillet over medium-high and add the oil. When the oil is shimmering, add the shaped tsukune and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides and cooked through, about 12 to 14 minutes. When nearly finished, push the forked end of a bamboo skewer into the narrow end of the tsukune. Lightly brush tsukune with soy sauce. Serve with Chinese-style mustard on the side. — Gabe Rosen PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOTOYA NAKAMURA
Miso-Glazed Scallops
Maguro Poke
MAKES 4 TO 6 SMALL SERVINGS
MAKES 4 TO 6 SMALL SERVINGS
Use a sake that’s good enough to drink on its own. If you can’t find yellow miso paste, red or white miso will do just fine.
About ¼ cup dried wakame seaweed (see note) 1 cup water
⁄3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
12 ounces fresh, high-quality maguro or ahi tuna (see note)
1 cup dry sake
2 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup miso paste, preferably yellow
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
1 pound large sea scallops
¾ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
Lemon wedges, for serving
3 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions
Carefully melt the brown sugar in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until it darkens slightly and caramelizes. Add the sake, raise heat to medium-high, and cook until the sugar dissolves and the mixture becomes syrupy and is reduced by about a third. Stir in miso and set aside to cool.
Pinch salt
1
Meanwhile, if any scallops still have the tough side muscle (the “foot”), remove them and discard. Cut the scallops in half (into half-circles). Mix with cooled miso-sake mixture and marinate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days. Thirty minutes before serving, place 4 to 6 bamboo skewers in water. After the skewers have soaked for 30 minutes, preheat the broiler and position the rack at least 6 inches from the heating element. Thread the scallops onto skewers. Broil until the scallops are nicely browned, about 3 minutes. Turn over and broil until the scallops are firm to the touch, about 3 minutes longer. Serve immediately with lemon wedges. — Gabe Rosen
21 19
½ teaspoon toasted sesame seeds (see note) Lemon wedges, for serving Soak wakame in 1 cup water for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and roughly chop to yield ½ cup; place in medium bowl. Cut tuna into 1-inch cubes and add to wakame. Gently stir in soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, green onions, salt and sesame seeds. Taste, adjust seasonings as needed, and serve with lemon wedges. Note: Find dried wakame seaweed at wellstocked Asian markets and some health food stores. Note: Although this fish in this dish is served raw, maguro (bluefin) and ahi (yellowfin) tunas do not pose a risk of parasites. For best eating quality, look for “sashimi grade” tuna. Note: To toast seeds, place in small skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until brown. Be careful not to scorch them. — Gabe Rosen
ASIAN FUSION
Nepalese Spicy Shredded Chicken (Chwelah) MAKES 5 TO 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS
Traditionally, the meat for chwelah is cooked over charcoal, but an easy shortcut is to substitute a rotisserie chicken from the supermarket Serve this with basmati rice. 1 whole rotisserie chicken 1 tablespoon vegetable oil ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds 2 tablespoons ghee or melted butter (see note) 1 serrano chile, sliced into 4 strips 1 small onion, sliced 1 large clove garlic, minced to a paste 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 1 tablespoon toasted and ground cumin seeds (see note) Kosher salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice or more to taste ½ cup chopped (1-inch) green onions Remove the skin and meat from the chicken. Shred the meat and portion out 1 pound (about 3 cups). Set aside. 20
In a wok or large skillet heat the oil, add fenugreek seeds and fry until they turn dark brown. Add the ghee and the serrano chile and sauté for 10 seconds. Add onion and sauté for 3 minutes. Add garlic paste and ginger and sauté for 1 minute. Add the 1 pound shredded chicken (reserve remainder for another use), along with cumin and salt to taste, tossing well. Add lemon juice and toss. Sauté until chicken is hot. Add green onion and fry for a couple more minutes. Serve hot or cold with rice. Efk\1 Buy ghee at any Indian market or make it by melting butter in a small saucepan on top of the stove and, using a large spoon or fine wire skimmer, removing and discarding the foam from the surface. Continue to simmer the melted butter until the milk solids at the bottom of the pan begin to brown and smell nutty. Turn off the heat and gently pour or spoon the golden liquid into a container, being careful to leave the browned solids in the saucepan. Discard the milk solids and refrigerate ghee in a tightly covered container for up to 12 months. Efk\1 To toast seeds, heat in a dry skillet over medium heat until they start to brown. Stir occasionally. Be careful not to burn. Cool seeds and grind in a mortar or spice grinder. — Bikram Vaidya PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
Cinnamon Panna Cotta With Coffee-Caramel Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS
OK, we know that panna cotta isn’t Asian, but we think the cinnamon fits well with our other flavors, and the coffee sauce on the creamy custard reminds us of a Vietnamese iced coffee. Don’t substitute ground cinnamon for the cinnamon sticks; it would give the panna cotta a grainy, dusty texture. The panna cottas can be made up to 24 hours ahead of time, though they are best prepared the same day.
Panna cotta: 1 cup whole milk 2 cups whipping cream (divided) 2¼ teaspoons unflavored gelatin ⁄3 cup granulated sugar
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Pinch salt 3 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces 2 tablespoons sour cream or crème fraîche Coffee-caramel sauce: 1 cup whipping cream 2 tablespoons fine-ground coffee 1 cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons light corn syrup ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon vanilla
PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
Salt
To make panna cotta: In a saucepan whisk together milk, 1 cup whipping cream, gelatin, sugar, salt and cinnamon sticks. Allow to sit 10 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Whisking frequently, heat over medium-low heat until mixture is hot to touch (about 150 degrees if using thermometer), 5 to 7 minutes. Strain through fine-meshed strainer into bowl and whisk in remaining whipping cream and sour cream. Divide between 6 ramekins (or small teacups), seal with plastic wrap and refrigerate. To make sauce: In a saucepan add cream and coffee; bring to a simmer over medium heat. Strain through fine-meshed strainer into bowl; cover to keep warm.
In a saucepan combine sugar, corn syrup and water; cover and bring to boil over high heat. Remove lid, reduce temperature to medium low, and cook until mixture turns a uniform golden amber color, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and carefully whisk in warm cream until incorporated. Whisk in butter, vanilla and salt to taste. Transfer to bowl and cool. With rubber spatula, gently unmold panna cottas onto center of each plate. Gently heat caramel sauce (if cooled) until it’s warm enough to spoon. Drizzle sauce over and around panna cottas. Serve immediately. — Matthew Card
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Summer dreaming
Get out your cute market basket to shop for this menu, because it’s all about the fresh stuff — greens, herbs, vegetables and berries. In other words, seasonal bliss. Grilled Bread With Arugula, Lemon and Grana Padano Summer Squash and Tomato Gratin Herbed Pork Roulade Cornmeal Shortcakes With Berries and Brown Sugar Whipped Cream 23
Thinking about drinking / Nothing says summer like dry rosé. (And moscato d’Asti.) It can be challenging to find good pink wines in the off-season, so either save this menu for mid-summer, or else look to Spain and France in cooler months for affordable and ubiquitous rosados like the Marques de Caceres from Rioja or the Routas Rouviere Coteaux Varois from Provence; both should sell for less than $15. Once May rolls around, you’ll have more options, including a delightful array of pink
pinot noirs from the Willamette Valley. One of our faves is J.K. Carriere’s creamy, ultrapale “Glass” ($20). Extra style points for the stylized wasp on the label, which will dress up your summer table. We’re partial to the watermelon-scented Roseena ($16) from Maysara, as well as the rosés from Soter ($20), Hamacher ($17) and tons of other local producers. An interesting alternative is the J. Christopher Christo Irresisto Oregon Pink Wine ($12.50), an
unusually pale blend of grenache with some syrah and a touch of viognier. Those cornmeal shortcakes, however, call for a change of pace. Might we suggest a moscato d’Asti, that delicately peachscented and slightly effervescent delight from northwestern Italy? Try the Saracco ($16), which only has about 5.5 percent alcohol. Now that’s a sweet way to end an evening.
SUMMER DREAMING
Grilled Garlic-Rubbed Bread Topped With Arugula, Lemon and Grana Padano MAKES 8 SERVINGS
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest Juice of ½ lemon 8 loosely packed cups arugula (large stems removed) Sea salt, medium to coarsely ground, or kosher salt
Heat a grill or grill pan to high. Brush both sides of the bread slices with about 2 tablespoons olive oil. Grill the bread on each side until nicely toasted with a hint of char. Remove from the grill and immediately rub with the garlic halves until most of the garlic is transferred to the bread. Cut the grilled bread slices in half and place two halves on each plate. In a small bowl whisk together the lemon zest, juice and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. In a large mixing bowl, toss the arugula with the lemon and oil dressing and a large pinch of salt. Adjust to taste with lemon juice, salt or oil, if needed. Put some arugula salad on each bread half. Garnish with shavings of the cheese and serve. — Darryl Joannides
¼ pound grana padano cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler into thin pieces
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIAN LEE
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Summer Squash and Tomato Gratin MAKES 4 TO 6 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS
The rich olive oil, salt and rosemary in focaccia make it a great choice for a crumb topping (leftover focaccia is fine). Serve this gratin with grilled lamb chops or chicken kebabs. For a large crowd, make two gratins. 6 ounces rosemary focaccia, torn into pieces ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 2 small zucchini, cut into ¼-inch slices (12 ounces) 8 ounces plum tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch slices 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Combine the focaccia, cheese and thyme in a food processor and pulse until you have crumbs about the size of granola. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and pulse a few times to evenly distribute. Brush the bottom and sides of a 4-cup baking dish with the remaining olive oil. Lay overlapping slices of zucchini and tomato slices in the dish (don’t worry about making it too pretty; it gets covered with crumbs). Sprinkle the salt and pepper over the vegetables, then top with the bread crumbcheese mixture.
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Transfer to the oven and bake until the crumbs are golden brown and the vegetable juices are sizzling, about 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. — Ivy Manning PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
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SUMMER DREAMING
Herbed Pork Roulade MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS
1 4-pound center cut pork loin roast Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup chopped fresh basil ½ cup toasted pine nuts (see note) ½ cup crumbled feta 2 teaspoons grapeseed or olive oil
Butterfly pork to form a flat slice: Score along the edge of the pork loin’s cap of fat, then cut about an inch or so into the length of the pork. Once you’ve cut 1 inch deep along the entire length of the loin, return to the top and cut deeper into the loin while you push the uncut portion away from the blade as if unrolling a poster. Repeat the lengthwise cut until meat is flat rectangle, about 11 by 12 inches (or ask your butcher to butterfly the pork). Salt and pepper generously. Layer basil, nuts and feta on surface of the pork. Roll up the pork loin like a carpet, so the fat cap is on the outside, and tie together with 4 to 5 evenly spaced lengths of butcher’s twine. Salt and pepper the outside of the loin generously. If using the oven, heat to 375 degrees; if using the grill, heat to mediumhigh indirect heat. Heat a heavy skillet to high, add the oil and brown all sides of the pork. When all sides are brown, remove from stove top. Roast or grill the pork until it registers 140 degrees in the center, using an instant-read thermometer, about 45 minutes to an hour. Remove from the heat and let sit for 10 minutes in the pan or on a platter. Slice the roast into ¾-inch slices. Serve immediately (serve with pan juices if roasted in oven). Note: To toast pine nuts, spread on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 3 to 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Watch carefully; they go from browned to burned in a matter of seconds. — Anne Hubatch
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PHOTOGRAPH BY SUSAN SEUBERT
Cornmeal Shortcakes With Berries and Brown Sugar Whipped Cream MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
For the best flavor, look for stone-ground cornmeal, such as locally produced Bob’s Red Mill brand. Feel free to blend your favorite berries and be creative: Chopped peaches or stewed rhubarb are also welcome additions. If adding strawberries, core and quarter them. Shortcakes: 1¼ cups whipping cream 1 tablespoon vanilla 1 egg yolk plus 1 egg (divided) ¼ cup stone-ground cornmeal 2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus additional sugar for topping 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch pieces Berries: 3 to 4 cups mixed berries Pinch salt 27
2 to 4 tablespoons granulated sugar Whipped cream: 2 tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar Pinch salt 2 tablespoons sour cream or crème fraîche 1 cup whipping cream
PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
To make shortcakes: Whisk together cream, vanilla, egg yolk and cornmeal. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow cornmeal to hydrate. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. In food processor combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt and pulse to blend. Scatter butter over top and combine with 10 one-second pulses. Transfer mixture to bowl and pour cornmeal mixture over top. Using rubber spatula, fold ingredients together until just combined and they form a uniform mass (a little loose flour is OK). Scoop and pack the batter into a ½-cup measuring cup, and shape into 6 uniform cakes; position evenly on baking sheet lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Beat remaining egg and brush it liberally over top of cakes; sprinkle generously with sugar. Bake until golden
brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Allow to cool. To make berries: While shortcakes bake, combine berries with salt and sugar; allow to sit at least 30 minutes before serving. (If you want a particularly saucy texture, smash a portion of the berries with the back of a spoon.) To make whipped cream: Just before serving, combine brown sugar, salt, sour cream and whipping cream in a large bowl and beat to soft peaks. Split shortcakes and cover each bottom with dollop of whipped cream, followed by berries and remaining whipped cream. Top with shortcake top and drizzle any remaining berry juices on plate around shortcakes. — Matthew Card
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Fancy vegetarian
Step away from the veggie burgers and lay out a sophisticated spread that has no need for meat. The dishes are deeply savory and will make anyone and everyone happy. Avocado and Goat Cheese Dip Pumpkin Sformato Polenta With Mushroom Ragoût Winter Greens With Pumpkinseed Oil Vinaigrette Mocha Bread Pudding
Thinking about drinking / We’ll begin with an unctuous white that fattens up the dip and sformato, then locate a light-bodied red that will work with the mushrooms as well as the greens. To finish, we’ll sip a molasses-y Madeira and ponder this question: Do vegetarians have more fun? The pumpkin and avocado portion of this meal bring to mind a spicy, savory gewürztraminer. This fragrant white has heady aromas of rose petals and litchi fruit and tons of nutmeg and cinnamon spice on the palate, even when it’s bone-dry. And it’s got the weight to work with creamy textures. Alsace is the go-to region for this waxy wine; try the Lucien Albrecht Reserve ($22) for a
jasmine-scented take on this grape, or a fruitier (and pricier) Marcel Deiss if you can find it. Now, what red is agile enough to work with salad but earthy enough to match with mushrooms? Local pinot noir, of course. Seek out producers with a lighter touch, such as The Eyrie Vineyards, Evesham Wood, Boedecker Cellars, Scott Paul or Arterberry-Maresh. My two latest
discoveries in this genre are Beacon Hill Estate in Gaston and Illahe in Dallas, both of which keep their prices reasonably in the $20 to $40 range. Close the deal with a rich bual Madeira such as the Cossart Gordon 10-Year-Old Medium-Rich Bual ($38). This vinous equivalent to a dark chocolate, coffee and root-beer float is just what you’ll want to wash down your bread pudding.
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FANCY VEGETARIAN Pumpkin Sformato With Balsamico Condimento MAKES 10 SERVINGS
A savory Italian custard, sformato is one of the new signature dishes at Nick’s Italian Cafe. Like a soufflé without the puff, it’s creamy, light and adapts to all kinds of flavors. This version, made with fall pumpkin, gets a boost from a drizzle of sweet-sour balsamico condimento, a full-flavored, more affordable substitute for authentic barrel-aged Italian balsamic vinegar (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale). 1 medium Cinderella or sugar pumpkin, about 2 pounds 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Salt 1 cup balsamico condimento (see note) 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour 1½ cups whipping cream 1½ teaspoons champagne vinegar 30
¼ cup grated parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving 5 eggs Toasted pumpkin seeds or chopped toasted hazelnuts
Cut pumpkin in half, scoop out seeds and reserve for toasting, if desired. Drizzle cut sides with olive oil, sprinkle generously with salt and place in a large roasting pan. Bake at 350 degrees until very tender, about 11/2 hours. Remove pumpkin from oven and allow it to sit until cool enough to handle. Place the balsamico condimento in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil until reduced to about 6 tablespoons; set aside. While the pumpkin is roasting, make bechamel sauce. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, melt butter and whisk in flour until mixture looks like wet sand. Let cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, making sure the mixture does not brown. Gradually pour in cream, whisking constantly to dissolve any lumps, and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and season with salt to taste; set aside. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Butter 10 custard dishes or
Avocado and Goat Cheese Dip MAKES 8 SERVINGS
4 ounces fresh chèvre 2 ripe avocados Dash Tabasco Salt Lemon juice Chips and crudités or cucumber slices and roasted red peppers
Purée the goat cheese, avocados and Tabasco in a food processor (or mash well by hand). Taste, season with salt and lemon juice. Serve as a dip or spoon onto cucumber slices and garnish with a small bit of roasted red pepper. — Randal St.Clair
ramekins, 6- to 8-ounce size, and place in a large roasting pan and set aside. Peel roasted pumpkin and weigh out 1 pound of flesh (about 2 cups of mashed). Put in blender jar or bowl of food processor with the champagne vinegar and puree in batches until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Bring bechamel sauce back to just under a boil, stirring often. Combine with pumpkin puree and parmesan. Season with salt to taste. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs lightly with a whisk. Add ½ cup of warm pumpkin mixture to eggs, whisking well to combine. Add another ½ cup of pumpkin, stir, then slowly add the rest of the warm pumpkin mixture to the eggs. Fill custard cups or ramekins with batter and place roasting pan on center rack of preheated oven. Pour enough almostboiling hot water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up the sides of the baking dishes. Bake until a knife inserted halfway between the edge and the center comes out clean, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove pan from oven, leaving the custard cups in the water until slightly cooled. Run a knife around the edge of each cup, then invert and turn out the custards onto individual serving dishes or a large platter. Drizzle with balsamico condimento, more freshly grated parmesan and toasted hazelnuts or pumpkin seeds, if you like. Note: Balsamico condimento, or balsamic condiment, is sold at stores that carry a wide selection of gourmet foods, including Zupan’s, Pastaworks and City Market. It’s not as expensive as the traditional aged balsamic, but it’s higher quality than an everyday balsamic vinegar. — Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson PHOTOGRAPH BY SUSAN SEUBERT
Polenta With Mushroom RagoĂťt MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The polenta and mushrooms allow for endless variation; instead of creminis, choose your favorite combination of fall mushrooms. Cook the cornmeal in vegetable broth instead of water for additional avor. Or, for a different dish altogether, pour the warm polenta into a baking dish, top with the mushrooms and fontina cheese, and bake until bubbling. 7 cups water
4 cloves garlic, sliced thin 1 bunch spinach (about 5 ounces), washed well 2 tablespoons tomato paste Ÿ cup red wine 1 cup vegetable broth 2 tablespoons butter ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
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1 pound fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced thin
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3 tablespoons olive oil (divided)
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½ cup grated pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving (optional)
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1½ cups coarse- or medium-grain cornmeal
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1ž teaspoons salt (divided)
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www.tricountyfarm.org In a large saucepan, bring the water and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil. Add the cornmeal in a slow stream, whisking. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until very thick, about 20 minutes. Stir in the 1⠄3 cup grated cheese. Meanwhile, in a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over moderately high heat. Add the mushrooms and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are golden, 10 to 12 minutes. (The mushrooms will release a large amount of liquid, reabsorb the liquid, and then start to brown. Your patience will be rewarded with deep mushroom avor.) Remove the mushrooms from the pan.
tablespoon of oil to the pan. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the spinach and remaining Ÿ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove the spinach and set aside with the mushrooms. Stir in the tomato paste, wine and vegetable broth. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the sauce is reduced by half, about 7 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter until the sauce is thickened and glossy, then return the mushrooms and spinach to the pan and simmer a minute to heat through. Stir in the black pepper and parsley; taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon the polenta into bowls and top with the mushroom ragoÝt and additional cheese. — Laura B. Russell
Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining
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FANCY VEGETARIAN
Winter Greens Salad With Crisp Vegetables and Pumpkinseed Oil Vinaigrette 32
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Pumpkinseed vinaigrette: 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon pumpkinseed oil (see note) 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Salad: 1 head escarole 2 small carrots, peeled 3 to 4 Jerusalem artichokes (also called sunchokes), peeled
To make vinaigrette: Whisk together the oils, vinegars, lemon juice and shallot. Add salt and pepper; taste and adjust seasoning as desired. To make salad: Separate the smaller, tender inner leaves from the escarole and save the larger, tougher ones for sautéing another time. Slice the carrots, Jerusalem artichokes and radishes into thin rounds by hand or with a mandoline. Toss all the greens, vegetables and half of the seeds together. Pour not quite all of the dressing over salad and toss again. Season with salt and pepper and top with the remaining seeds. Note: Pumpkinseed oil has an intense nutty taste and is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Find it at stores that carry a wide selection of gourmet foods (In Good Taste often carries it; 231 N.W. 11th Ave., 503-248-2015) or order it from igourmet.com or cybercucina.com. — Chris Israel
1 bunch radishes 1 head red leaf or other lettuce 1 large or 2 small heads frisée 4 cups arugula or spinach ¼ cup roasted and salted sunflower seeds ¼ cup roasted and salted pumpkin seeds
PHOTOGRAPH BY ADAM LEVEY
“just right”
-the oregonian
Mocha Bread Pudding MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Serve this bread pudding with ice cream (vanilla, cinnamon or ginger) or topped with lightly whipped cream flavored with a little powdered sugar, vanilla and rum or bourbon. Butter for greasing pan, plus melted butter for brushing top (divided) 10 slices good-quality sandwich bread (such as Marsee Baking’s OldFashioned White), crusts trimmed and bread cut into 1-inch squares 2 cups half-and-half 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa 2 tablespoons fine-ground coffee ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar 1¼ cups whipping cream 2 eggs plus 2 egg yolks 4 ounces good-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces 2 tablespoons granulated sugar Grease an 8-inch square baking pan; set aside. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Spread bread cubes onto rimmed baking sheet and bake until dried out and beginning to crisp, about 20 minutes.
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Meanwhile, in a saucepan combine half-and-half, cocoa, coffee and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking occasionally; strain through fine-meshed strainer into large mixing bowl. Whisk in brown sugar, whipping cream and eggs and yolks, one at a time (to prevent curdling). Add toasted bread to mixing bowl and stir to combine. Allow to sit for 3 minutes to absorb custard; fold in chocolate and transfer to baking dish. Sprinkle granulated sugar over top and bake until just firm and top is beginning to crisp, about 45 minutes. Brush top of pudding with some melted butter. Cool until just warm and serve with ice cream or flavored whipped cream. — Matthew Card PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
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Steak and salad
Vibrant vegetables, lively herbs and the meaty punch of beef — this menu starts out bright and bold, and concludes with the most luscious ice cream you’ve ever had. Honest. Roasted Red Pepper Soup Panzanella Salad Grilled Steak With Salsa Verde Milk Chocolate Gelato With Hazelnuts
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Thinking about drinking / The red meat in this meal just begs for a big red wine. But the bell peppers, the salsa verde and the herbaceous bread salad all bring a lot of vegetal character to the table. So: Which red goes best with green flavors? Cabernet sauvignon, of course. We’re on the prowl for cool-climate cabs with lots of eucalyptus, mint and even greenpepper notes. Bordeaux, of course, springs to mind first. Go for the Left Bank (i.e. the west side of the Garonne River/Gironde estuary, where the blends tend to be cab-heavy). And don’t be shy, because there’s a Bordeaux for every price range — for example, the tasty Chateâu
Beauvillage from Médoc is just $12. Or consider traveling to an emerging region where the grape content is helpfully printed on the front label. Such as South Africa, where value-savvy producers like Nederburg ($11), Glen Carlou ($15) and Neil Ellis ($20) prove that you don’t have to break the bank to find a classically styled cab. Hazelnut-shredded chocolate gelato sounds like a job for cocoa-hued PX or
cream sherry. Silky and nutty-sweet with a surprisingly clean finish, these wines are slick alongside tough nuts like ice cream. Try the Harveys Reserve Rare Cream Sherry ($18) or splurge on the Lustau Pedro Ximénez San Emilio ($30). Between the dessert and the drink, you’ll think you’ve died and gone to a Nutella-sponsored heaven.
STEAK AND SALAD
Roasted Red Bell Pepper Soup With Minted Crème Fraîche MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS
Minted Crème Fraîche: ¼ cup crème fraîche 1½ tablespoons thinly sliced fresh mint leaves, plus pretty sprigs for garnish ¼ teaspoon granulated sugar Soup: 5 large red bell peppers 2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 cup chopped red onion Kosher salt 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar 1 cup dry white wine 3 cups water Finely ground black pepper To make Minted Crème Fraîche: In a small bowl stir together the crème fraîche, sliced mint and sugar. Cover and refrigerate overnight to let the mint flavor the crème. Strain out the mint; keep crème cold until ready to use. 36
To make soup: Roast the red peppers over a hot grill or under a broiler on a foil-lined pan about 5 to 6 inches from the heat source. With either method, turn them often until the skin is charred on all sides. Put the charred peppers in a large bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit until cool enough to handle. Pull out the cores and pull off the charred skins; reserve any juices. Pull the
peppers into pieces and scrape out the seeds. Do not rinse the peppers or you’ll wash away flavorful juices. In a Dutch oven or large saucepan, heat the oil over medium, add the onion and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are very soft and fragrant but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the roasted peppers and the juices, the brown sugar and the white wine and simmer until the wine has cooked down to a glaze, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the 3 cups water (it should just barely cover
the peppers; if not, add a bit more) and simmer until they’re completely tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Purée the soup in a blender and pass it through a medium strainer to get out any stray seeds or lumps. Taste and season well with salt and black pepper. Serve soup warm or chilled. To serve, ladle the soup into shallow bowls, drizzle on some Minted Crème Fraîche and some olive oil. Decorate with a mint sprig. — Paul Klitsie PHOTOGRAPH BY FREDRICK D. JOE
Panzanella Salad MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1 pound stale ciabatta or other light-textured artisan bread, crust cut off, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 8 cups) 1 cup plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil (divided)
1 cup roasted, peeled, seeded and julienned red and yellow bell peppers (see note) 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons capers
½ cup corn kernels (about 1 small ear)
1 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves
2 pounds ripe, juicy tomatoes (about 5 medium tomatoes), cored and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 6 cups)
½ cup lightly packed fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley leaves
1 unpeeled English cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, seeds scraped out with a spoon, diced 1 medium red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Spread the bread pieces on a baking sheet and toast in the oven just until the surface of the bread has dried and crisped, but don’t actually brown the bread. Set aside. Heat the 1 teaspoon olive oil in a small skillet over high heat and quickly sauté the corn kernels until lightly browned around the edges, 1 to 2 minutes.
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
In a large bowl add the corn, tomatoes, cucumber, onion, bell peppers, garlic, capers, basil, parsley and fennel seeds, if using. Add the vinegar, remaining 1 cup olive oil and the lemon juice. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss well. Cover and refrigerate about 2 hours to let the juices and flavors mingle.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 30 minutes before serving, if the vegetable
1 teaspoon toasted and ground fennel seeds (optional; see note) ⁄3 cup red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar
1
2 cups lightly packed small arugula leaves
Grilled Grass-Fed Steak With Salsa Verde MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 heaping teaspoon Dijon mustard
Process the bread in a food processor until ground fine, about 20 seconds. Add anchovies, garlic, mustard, capers, vinegar, olive oil, parsley and mint and process until well blended, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a bowl. Refrigerate at least 1 hour to let the flavors blend.
1 tablespoon drained capers
Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal or gas grill (see note).
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
If using skirt steak, trim any excess fat and cut into 6-inch lengths. Season the meat liberally with salt and pepper. Put the steaks on the grill and cook, without moving, until well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip steak and cook second side until just browned, 2 to 4 minutes longer for rare, about 5 minutes longer for medium rare (times will vary depending on the thickness of the steak). Transfer to cutting board and allow to rest 7 to 10 minutes. Cut the steaks against the grain into slices — thick or thin depending on your taste — and serve immediately accompanied by salsa verde.
2 slices white bread, crusts removed and cut into ¼-inch pieces 2 anchovy fillets, minced 1 large clove garlic, minced
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1¼ cups packed fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley leaves ¼ cup packed fresh mint Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ to 2 pounds grass-fed steak (skirt, flank, rib-eye, tri-tip or sirloin are all good choices)
Note: To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 3 seconds for medium-hot. — Matthew Card
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
mixture is very juicy, pour off some of the juices, but do not throw them out. Add the bread to the vegetable mixture, toss again and let stand at room temperature. When ready to serve, gently toss with the arugula, taste and correct seasoning. If the salad seems dry, pour back some of the reserved juice. Pile the finished salad on plates or into bowls and serve immediately. Note: To roast peppers, place on broiler pan and broil about 5 to 6 inches from the heat source, turning often, until skin is well-charred on all sides. Place in a bag or covered bowl for about 10 minutes. Scrape off blackened skin but do not rinse. Note: To toast seeds, heat in a dry skillet over medium heat until they start to brown, Stir occasionally and be careful not to burn them. — Paul Klitsie PHOTOGRAPH BY FREDRICK D. JOE
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Milk Chocolate Gelato With Toasted Whole Hazelnuts MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1 cup half-and-half ¾ cup granulated sugar 6 egg yolks 6 ounces good-quality milk chocolate, chopped 2 tablespoons butter 2 cups whipping cream ½ cup whole hazelnuts, toasted and skinned (see note) Set a medium stainless bowl over a saucepan filled with with an inch or so of water (don’t let the water touch the bowl); put over medium heat. Add the half-and-half and sugar and cook until sugar has dissolved. Whisk egg yolks lightly in another stainless bowl; try not to beat in any air. Slowly drizzle a few tablespoons of the warm half-and-half into the eggs, whisking as you go, to temper the eggs so they don’t curdle. Continue to add the remaining half-and-half in the same manner.
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Return egg/half-and-half mixture to the double boiler over medium heat and stir constantly until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon or rubber spatula (when you run your finger through it, it should leave a clear trail; 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer). This takes about 10 to 15 minutes. While the custard is cooking, put the chocolate and the butter in another double boiler to melt. Strain cooked custard, then slowly add it to the melted chocolate, whisking constantly. As the chocolate blends with the custard, it will first “break” into small grainy beads, then it will start to pull together into glistening ribbons. Add the whipping cream to the custard/chocolate mixture, stirring continuously. Set over an ice bath to chill, then transfer to the refrigerator until you are ready to churn it in an ice cream maker. (The gelato can be completed up to this point and refrigerated 2 to 3 days.)
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Pour the chilled gelato base into an ice cream maker and churn according to manufacturer’s directions or until it reaches the desired consistency. Gelato should be softer than traditional ice cream. Just before finishing, pour the cup of toasted hazelnuts into the machine and mix to incorporate fully. Transfer the gelato to freezable containers, being sure to cover the surface with plastic wrap before attaching lids to avoid any ice crystals forming. Freeze until ready to serve; best when served 1 hour after churning.
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Note: To toast hazelnuts, spread the shelled nuts in a shallow pan and roast in a 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until the skins crack. Rub warm nuts with a rough cloth or between your hands to remove as much skin as possible. — Sarah Joannides
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Both sides of the Mediterranean
Why limit yourself to France and Italy when you can dine on heady Moroccan fare, too? This menu captures all the sunny, sexy flavors of our favorite part of the world. Fava Bean and Mint Tapenade Saffron Rice Ras Al-Hanout Spiced Chicken Tagine Chocolate Harissa Sautéed Swiss Chard Figs With Honey-Rum Zabaglione 39
Thinking about drinking / For this sun-splashed menu, let’s stick with the evening’s theme and explore the wines of the Med Sea. With such a wild-card variety of herbs and spices on the table, you can’t go wrong with one of the versatile whites of Greece. The Boutari Santorini ($19), for example, is made from a fragrant viognier-like grape called assyrtiko. With a weighty mouth feel and notes of minerals and figs, it’s substantial enough to stand up to a wide range of textures and flavors. If you’re watching your wallet, the simple Sicilian Nero d’Avola is a red made for slurping down alongside Mediterranean
spices like saffron and turmeric. Good cheapie producers in the $10 to $15 bracket include Feudo Arancio and Tasca d’Almerita. Another option that can be amazingly affordable: a spicy tempranillo from Spain. We love the Faustino VII Rioja ($11.50), a silky, brick-tinted red. Thanks to aging in American oak barrels, it’s accented with vanilla, coconut, cinnamon and nutmeg notes that would sing alongside tagine, harissa and couscous.
The instructions for the fig-and-zabaglione recipe call for a dry white wine and a splash of rum, but this dish is traditionally prepared using Marsala, a fortified wine made from indigenous Sicilian grapes. So why not substitute the original back into the recipe? If you’re intrigued, consider an inexpensive option such as Cantine Florio’s Sweet Marsala ($11), which isn’t too fancy to cook with but is still pleasant enough to sip alongside your dessert.
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PHOTOGRAPH BY SUSAN SEUBERT
Fava Bean and Fresh Mint Tapenade MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
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2 cups shelled fava beans 1 medium clove garlic (preferably new crop) ½ cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon champagne or white wine vinegar ½ cup fruity olive oil 1 generous pinch kosher salt With a sharp paring knife, cut a tiny slit in the skin of each fava bean. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil, add the beans and cook for about 30 seconds. Drain, and when cool enough to handle, squeeze the bright green beans from the skin (toss the skins). Put the favas, garlic, mint, vinegar, olive oil and salt in a food processor. Process until the mixture is well-blended, just shy of a purée.
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This recipe can also be made using fresh peas.
— Anne Hubatch
Saffron Rice
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Melt a tablespoon of butter in a medium saucepan and toss in a hearty pinch of saffron threads. Add 4 cups chicken broth and bring to a boil. Add 2 cups jasmine rice and let the mixture boil while stirring for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off heat and let rice sit covered for another 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork and serve. Makes 6 servings. — JJ DeSousa
Ras Al-Hanout Spiced Chicken Tagine MAKES 6 SERVINGS
For optimal flavor, use an electric spice grinder to freshly grind whole black peppercorns, cardamom and cloves for the ras al-hanout. A tagine is an earthenware Moroccan cooking vessel with a conical lid that traps steam and results in extremely flavorful cooking liquid. If you don’t have a tagine, use a Dutch oven. Ras al-hanout: ¼ cup ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon turmeric 1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ¾ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom ¾ teaspoon ground cloves Chicken: 6 chicken drumsticks (about 1½ pounds) 6 chicken thighs (about 2 pounds) 2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced ½ cup olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons (divided) 1 large white onion, thinly sliced 1 lemon, quartered Salt
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3 cups chicken broth, or more if needed To make ras al-hanout: In a small bowl combine the cinnamon, turmeric, black pepper, nutmeg, cardamom and cloves. To make chicken: Thoroughly pat the chicken dry with paper towels and dredge the chicken in the ras al-hanout spices so the pieces are completely covered. Place in a bowl or baking dish and scatter thyme and garlic over the chicken. Pour ½ cup olive oil over everything, toss to coat, cover with plastic wrap and let sit in the refrigerator overnight. Remove marinated chicken from refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. Take the chicken out of the marinade; set remaining marinade aside. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat; add chicken and cook until brown on all sides. Do this in batches, adding the second tablespoon of oil as needed. Remove the chicken from the Dutch oven; set aside. Add the onion to the Dutch oven and cook until translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Place the chicken in the tagine or return to the Dutch oven, add the onion and lemon, along with the reserved marinade. Sprinkle generously with salt. Add enough broth to almost cover the chicken, bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the chicken has begun to pull away from the bones and the meat is quite tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove chicken, lemons and onions from the broth and keep warm. Skim any fat from the surface of the broth, bring to a rolling boil and boil until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups, 6 to 8 minutes. Season the chicken to taste with salt and return to the broth along with the lemons and onions. Serve with Saffron Rice and Chocolate Harissa. — Jesse Manis
Chocolate Harissa
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARTIN THIEL
MAKES 1¼ CUPS
1 teaspoon caraway seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1½ tablespoons coriander seed ¾ cup vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup mild chili powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves 1 teaspoon good quality unsweetened cocoa
In a small skillet, toast the caraway, cumin and coriander seeds over medium heat until fragrant. Grind in an electric spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Set aside. In the same skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until very light brown. Remove from the heat, add the reserved spices, chili powder, salt, mint and cocoa powder; stir to combine and let cool. Cover with plastic wrap and store at room temperature overnight to allow the flavors to blend. The mixture will separate as it sits; stir gently to re-emulsify. Serve at room temperature. — Charles Stilwell
BOTH SIDES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
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Sautéed Swiss Chard MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
2 large bunches swiss chard or mustard greens ¼ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon sliced garlic Kosher salt Wash chard thoroughly in cold water, trim off the ends of the stems and cut remaining leaves and stems into 1-inch strips. Heat a wok or large sauté pan over moderate heat and add oil. Once oil is hot, add garlic, fry for a few seconds, then add chard. Season with salt, stir well, cover and cook until chard is wilted, tossing frequently. Don’t allow mixture to dry out; add a couple tablespoons of water if needed. — Martha Holmberg
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
Glazed Fresh Figs With Honey-Rum Zabaglione MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Figs:
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12 fresh ďŹ gs, preferably Black Mission variety
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1 tablespoon unsalted butter 3 tablespoons granulated sugar Ÿ cup dry white wine, such as a sauvignon blanc Honey zabaglione: Ÿ cup clover honey Ÿ cup plus 2 tablespoons dry white wine, such as a sauvignon blanc 2 tablespoons Myers’s Rum Original Dark
Ă‘!Kpti!Sbzopmet!po!pvs!3115!
!!!DbuizÖt!Sftfswf!Qjopu!Opjs Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/June 2007
6 egg yolks 2 tablespoons granulated sugar To make ďŹ gs: Remove stems from ďŹ gs and cut ďŹ gs in half. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place a large sautĂŠ pan over medium-high heat and melt the butter. Add the ďŹ g halves cut side down and sear for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add the sugar; stir gently with a wooden spoon until fruit is covered with butter and sugar. Place the ďŹ gs in a baking dish. Add wine to the skillet and deglaze by gently scraping up any brown bits stuck to the bottom. Pour wine mixture over the ďŹ gs and place the baking dish in the oven to keep warm. As soon as the ďŹ gs are in the oven, start making the zabaglione. To make zabaglione: Combine the honey, white wine and rum in a stainless steel bowl and stir until the honey is dissolved; add the egg yolks and sugar. Select a saucepan that will hold the bowl snugly; add water to the pan, but not enough that it touches the bottom of the bowl. Set the saucepan over medium heat, place bowl on top and beat the zabaglione until it is smooth and thickened and has tripled in volume, 7 to 10 minutes. (It should be similar in consistency to whipped cream.) Remove the ďŹ gs from the oven and divide among 6 bowls. Divide the zabaglione over the ďŹ gs and serve. — Paul Klitsie PHOTOGRAPH BY MARTHA HOLMBERG
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Fish in a spring state of mind Roasted halibut is at the center of a delicate menu that also showcases spicy spring greens, fragrant herbs and, of course, those darling Oregon strawberries. Zesty Feta Cheese Crepes With Pesto and Arugula Roasted Cauliflower Roasted Halibut With Green-Olive Relish Strawberry Fool With Cornmeal Shortbread 45
Thinking about drinking / This herbaceous lineup calls for a zippy spring wine with the heft to handle a hearty halibut. The hills are alive with the sound of grüner veltliner, the Austrian white that dances (and sings) a food-friendly line between finesse and fortitude. Floral aromas combined with notes of citrus rind, white pepper and tropical fruits make this a wine that goes with everything on your springtime culinary radar. Our top picks here at MIX include the Salomon Undhof Hochterrassen, with floral
notes and a lime-peel finish; the Thomas Leithner Loess; and the Nigl Kremser Freiheit Kremstal. All sell for $18 to $25. We also love to sip New Zealand sauvignon blancs — with their green zesty notes of gooseberry, grass and tart grapefruit — alongside seafood and herbaceous dishes. Look for those from the Marlborough region; our faves for food matching include the Drylands, the Whitehaven and the Kim Crawford, all in the $17 to $20 range.
Missing from the table: something red. How about a light-bodied gamay noir, which will work with the main part of the meal as well as its strawberry finale? We might recommend the Jacky Janodet Domaine Les Fines Graves Beaujolais Villages ($18) or the elegant Brick House Ribbon Ridge Gamay Noir ($24) from Oregon.
FISH IN A SPRING STATE OF MIND Zesty Feta Cheese Appetizer MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 6-ounce block feta cheese, about 3-by-3-by-1 inch, rinsed and left in block form 3 to 4 cloves garlic, very roughly chopped ½ teaspoon dried Greek oregano 5 to 6 small dried red chiles or 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 tablespoon black peppercorns Extra-virgin olive oil Rinse the feta cheese, drain it and place in a small shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle the garlic, oregano, chiles or red pepper flakes and peppercorns over the cheese. Pour enough olive oil to cover the cheese, but not drown it. The oil will be absorbed by the cheese over time and may be refreshed after a day, if necessary. — Athena Pappas
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PHOTOGRAPH BY SUSAN SEUBERT
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Roasted Cauliflower With Lemon, Capers and Parsley MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 small to medium heads cauliflower ⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme or lemon thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 clove garlic, finely minced
Crepes With Pesto and Arugula MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Pesto: 2 to 3 medium cloves garlic 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted (see note) Leaves from 1 bunch fresh basil (about 4 ounces) Pinch salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Crepes: 2 eggs ½ cup whole milk 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour Salt 2½ tablespoons butter, melted, plus more for buttering the pan 1 bunch arugula (about 5 ounces) Extra-virgin olive oil, for dressing Few drops freshly squeezed lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper
PHOTOGRAPH BY FREDRICK D. JOE
To make pesto: Blend the garlic and pine nuts in a food processor for a few seconds. Add the basil leaves and salt and blend for another 5 seconds. With machine running, slowly add the olive oil followed by the cheese. The pesto should be fairly thick, but if it seems dry, add a little more oil. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl, cover and place in a cool (not cold) place for at least an hour, to let the flavors develop. To make crepes: Break the eggs into a mixing bowl and lightly whisk. Whisk in the milk. While continuing to whisk, sift in the flour and ½ teaspoon salt. Add the melted butter and whisk until the batter is smooth. (You can also make the batter by putting the eggs, milk, flour and salt in a blender and processing until smooth; add melted butter and process for a few seconds more.) Strain the batter through a sieve to remove any lumps. Cover batter and store in a cool place for about an hour. Afterward, stir the batter: It should have the consistency of heavy cream; if it’s too thick, add a little milk. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat until it’s medium hot, then reduce heat to medium. Lightly butter the bottom of the pan. While holding the pan at an angle, pour the crepe batter onto the highest point of the pan with a 2-ounce ladle or a ¼-cup measuring cup. Tilt the pan so the batter covers the bottom of the pan. If necessary, add a little more batter. Put the pan back over medium heat and cook the crepe until lightly browned and dry on the underside. Loosen the edges of the crepe with a fork or heat-proof spatula and flip it; cook for another 10 seconds. Slide the crepe onto a plate and repeat until you have 6 crepes. You can make the crepes up to 4 hours ahead and keep them covered at room temperature. To serve, spread the pesto in a generous layer over each crepe using the back of a spoon. In a large bowl sprinkle the arugula with a little olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper; toss to dress lightly. Top each crepe with a small handful of greens and serve immediately. Diners should fold the crepes up around the arugula and eat with a knife and fork. Note: To toast pine nuts, spread on baking sheet and bake in a 350-degree oven for 3 to 5 minutes. Check after 3 minutes; they go from browned to burned in a matter of seconds. — Paul Klitsie
2 tablespoons drained capers, roughly chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley Heat oven to 425 degrees. Cut the cauliflower into florets, mostly the same size, but a few smaller ones are OK (they will create extra-crispy bits). Cut any large florets in half lengthwise. In a large bowl toss cauliflower with the olive oil and thyme; season generously with salt and pepper and toss again until everything’s evenly distributed. Spread the cauliflower on a rimmed baking sheet (you may need two) and roast until florets are tender, collapsed and golden brown on their cut faces and around the edges, at least 20 minutes, possibly longer. Meanwhile, stir together the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic and capers. When the cauliflower is ready to serve, toss it with the lemon mixture and the fresh parsley and serve right away. — From Martha Holmberg PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
47
FISH IN A SPRING STATE OF MIND Roasted Halibut With Green-Olive Relish MAKES 4 SERVINGS
For a lovely presentation, cook one whole piece of halibut instead of individual portions. Top the fish with the green-olive relish and bring it to the table on a platter. A salad dressed with a simple mustard vinaigrette makes a perfect accompaniment. Grilled halibut or swordfish or roasted sturgeon taste equally delicious with the relish. 1 cup pitted and halved green olives, such as cerignola, lucques or picholine ½ cup packed fresh parsley leaves 1 tablespoon drained capers Grated zest of 1 orange (about 1 teaspoon) 2 tablespoons orange juice ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (divided) 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil (divided) 1½ pounds halibut fillet, about 1½ inches thick ½ teaspoon salt
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In a food processor, combine the olives, parsley, capers, orange zest, orange juice, ½ teaspoon pepper and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Pulse-process to a coarse purée. (Alternatively, chop the olives, parsley and capers with a knife. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the orange zest, juice, ½ teaspoon pepper and 3 tablespoons olive oil.) Serve at room temperature. The relish will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Pat the halibut dry and put it in a baking dish. Rub the fish with remaining teaspoon olive oil and sprinkle the salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper over the top. Cook the fish until there is a tiny bit of translucence remaining inside when you check with a knife, 12 to 15 minutes for 1½-inch-thick fillets. Take care not to overcook, as it will continue cooking as you bring it to the table. Serve the halibut topped with the green-olive relish. — Laura B. Russell
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
Strawberry Fool With Cornmeal Shortbread MAKES 4 SERVINGS, WITH EXTRA COOKIES
Fools are old-fashioned desserts that are blissfully simple: mashed fruit lightened with sweetened whipped cream. In this version, honey instead of sugar coaxes the sweet flavor of Oregon strawberries. The fool’s creaminess is a nice contrast to the crisp little shortbreads, which are a breeze to throw together.
Shortbread: ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces (1 stick) ⁄3 cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar (divided) 1
1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup cornmeal ½ teaspoon vanilla 1 egg yolk 1 egg 1 teaspoon water
Fool: 1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and thinly sliced (about 2¼ cups; divided) 1 tablespoon honey ¼ teaspoon orange flower water (see note)
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¼ cup powdered sugar 1 cup cold whipping cream Grated zest from ½ orange To make shortbread: Heat oven to 325 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine butter, 1⁄3 cup sugar, flour, cornmeal, vanilla and egg yolk in a food processor. Process until dough begins to clump together, about 2 minutes. Remove the blade from the processor and bring the dough together with your hands. Form the dough into a 6-inch-diameter disc and place it on the prepared baking sheet. Whisk the whole egg and water together in a small bowl with a fork. Brush the dough with the egg mixture lightly, and then sprinkle with the remaining teaspoon of sugar. Using a dough scraper or chef ’s knife, score the disc of dough into quarters, then into 12 wedges (don’t separate wedges). Bake in oven until golden brown and crisp, about 45 minutes. Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack and allow shortbread to cool for 1 hour before separating into individual wedges.
To make fool: In a medium bowl using a potato masher, mash 1½ cups of the strawberries with the honey and orange flower water until a lumpy sauce is created; set aside. In a large chilled bowl sift the powdered sugar over the cream and whip until soft peaks form when beater is lifted. Gently fold the orange zest and mashed strawberry mixture into the whipped cream, leaving streaks of strawberry. Spoon mixture into 4 pretty 8-ounce glasses and top with remaining strawberry slices. Place 1 shortbread cookie wedge point sidedown in each glass and serve.
Note: Find orange flower water at stores that carry a wide selection of gourmet foods. — Ivy Manning
PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
Dressy dinner
There’s an elegance to these recipes that says, ‘Yes, Darling, please light the candles and dim the lights. We’re having a Dinner Party.’ Greens With Herb and Lemon Goat Cheese Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup Braised Chicken With Buttery Leeks Pear Crostata With Warm Caramel Sauce 51
Thinking about drinking / With a glass of bubbly in your hand, you’ll be humming “I Feel Pretty” all evening long. There isn’t a thing on this menu that wouldn’t taste even better accompanied by a flute of sparkling wine. The palatecleansing bubbles and acidity create a counterpoint to the creaminess of the goat cheese, the soup and the leeks, while the yeasty, toasty character of a traditional bottle-fermented bubbly harmoniously complements the mellow, savory flavors of the mushrooms, hazelnuts and chicken. Since this is a “Dressy Dinner,” we’d better stick to France. But that still leaves us lots of options. We’re big fans of crémants — traditional French sparkling wines from outside the Champagne region. We recommend you focus on the regions of Alsace
and Burgundy, unless you come across our wine-geek find, the Tissot Brut ($24) from the relatively obscure appellation known as the Jura. Of course, true Champagne always makes an occasion feel extra-special. And if you really know your stuff, you’ll seek out “grower” (i.e. artisanal, small-batch) producers. Our five faves are Claude Genet, Jacques Lassaigne, Guy Charlemagne, J. Lassalle and Chartogne-Taillet, all of which run in the $35 to $55 range. If you still have any cash left, finish big with a Sauternes. No need to blow hundreds of dollars on a bottle of d’Yquem. There are delicious half-bottles of this
golden liquid honey (with, incidentally, apple and pear notes that would be perfect alongside that pear crostata) in the $25 range; just ask your wine merchant. Psssst! Now I want to let all you budget-minded folks in on a little secret. If you can’t afford the aforementioned luxuries, just remember these three sweet words: Blanquette de Limoux. This southern French bubbly never disappoints in the $10 to $20 price range; the peachesand-cream-accented Delmas ($12) will keep your palate happy from appetizer hour right through evening’s end.
DRESSY DINNER Tender Greens With Herb and Lemon Goat Cheese Crostini MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Goat cheese crostini: 5½ ounces fresh goat cheese (about 2⁄3 cup) 4 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed (divided) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (at least two of the following: parsley, chives, tarragon, dill) 1½ teaspoons finely grated lemon zest Six ½-inch diagonally cut baguette slices Salad: 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 5 ounces mixed spring greens (about 10 cups) To make crostini: Put the goat cheese and 4 teaspoons olive oil in a food processor (or in a mixing bowl with a wooden spoon). Pulse one or two short pulses just to blend. The mixture should be spreadable; if it’s too thick, add more olive oil and pulse again. Transfer to a bowl, and stir in salt and pepper to taste, the herbs and lemon zest. Chill for 30 minutes. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Place bread on a large baking sheet, brush lightly on both sides with the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil and bake until lightly toasted, about 4 minutes per side. Set aside.
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To make salad: In a small bowl combine the vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper to taste and whisk to blend. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Just before serving, add dressing to mixed greens and toss gently. Divide among 6 salad plates. Spread a nice schmear of the herbed cheese on the toasted baguette slices and place 1 slice on each plate on top of the salads. Serve immediately. PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
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Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup With Dill and Sour Cream MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Look for dried porcini mushrooms that are in large slices, not the ones that are crumbled or powdery. 6 cups water or chicken broth 1½ cups dried porcini mushrooms (about 1 ounce) 2 large or 4 medium yellow oni ons, sliced (about 8 cups) ¼ cup butter 3 pounds white or cremini mushrooms, sliced or quartered, depending on size 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup toasted hazelnuts (see note), ground fine in a food processor ½ cup sour cream 1 to 2 tablespoons whipping cream ⁄3 cup roughly chopped fresh dill
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Put the water or chicken broth and dried porcini mushrooms in a small saucepan; bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let soak for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve or coffee filter and reserve it. Rinse the mushrooms to remove any grit and chop them roughly. In a Dutch oven or large soup pot, sauté the onions in butter over medium heat until golden brown, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the white or cremini mushrooms, thyme and season generously with salt and pepper (sauté in batches if your pan isn’t large enough to accommodate all of the mushrooms) and cook over medium-low heat until the mushrooms have given off their juices and are soft, about 10 minutes.
Add the chopped porcini and porcini broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, then stir in the ground hazelnuts. Purée the soup in batches in a blender. Return all the soup to the pot, thin with a little water so the soup has a nice rich consistency; season to taste. Thin the sour cream with the whipping cream. Divide the soup into bowls and garnish with the sour cream mixture and fresh dill. Note: To toast hazelnuts, spread the shelled nuts in a shallow pan and roast in a 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until the skins crack. Rub warm nuts with a rough cloth or between your hands to remove as much skin as possible. — Chris Isreal PHOTOGRAPH BY ADAM LEVEY
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DRESSY DINNER Applegate Valley, Southern Oregon
Braised Chicken With Buttery Leeks
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Wash the leeks well to remove any hidden sand, and then leave a little water clinging to them when you add them to the pan. The water helps jump-start the steaming process. A side dish of sautéed spinach and some buttered egg noodles complete the meal. 1½ tablespoons olive oil 12 small bone-in chicken thighs (about 3½ pounds) 1½ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste (divided) 5 tablespoons butter (divided) 7 leeks, halved lengthwise and sliced thin (about 8 cups) 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth 3 sprigs plus 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme (divided)
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1 tablespoon white wine vinegar ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste In a large deep frying pan or Dutch oven (or two smaller pans), heat the oil over moderately high heat. Sprinkle the chicken with ½ teaspoon of salt. Put the chicken in the pan and brown well, turning once, about 8 minutes in all. Remove chicken from pan and pour off any remaining oil. Reduce the heat to moderately low.
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Add 2 tablespoons of the butter to the pan. Stir in the leeks and remaining ½ teaspoon of salt. Cook, covered, for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the wine and chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken back to the pan and top with the thyme sprigs. Cover and cook over low heat until the chicken is just cooked, about 30 minutes. Remove the chicken and thyme sprigs from the pan. Keep chicken warm Increase the heat to moderately high and simmer the sauce to thicken it, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons butter, the vinegar, black pepper and the chopped thyme. Taste and add additional salt or pepper if necessary. Serve the sauce with the chicken. —Laura B. Russell
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS
Pear Crostata With Warm Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream and Black Pepper MAKES 6 SERVINGS, PLUS LEFTOVERS
This luscious dessert gets a double hit of caramel sauce that’s laced with pear juice, both in the filling and drizzled on top. Cracked pepper might seem odd at the dessert table, but a few twists are a welcome complement to the creamy vanilla ice cream. Pastry: 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons granulated sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup unsalted butter (2 sticks), cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled About ½ cup ice water Filling: 8 firm-ripe Bartlett pears Juice of 1 lemon
To make pastry: In a food processor, pulse the flour, sugar and salt. Add the butter and pulse again until the largest piece of butter is the size of a small pea. With the processor running, drizzle in the ice water; stop processor as soon as the dough starts to climb up the sides of the processor bowl. Remove the top and carefully (to avoid the blade) squeeze a big pinch of the dough to see whether it’s still dry and crumbly or whether it holds together and feels moist. If it’s still dry, pulse in a few more drops of water. When it’s the right consistency, dump it on a lightly floured work surface, knead it lightly by pushing the dough away from you with the heel of your hand and gathering it back together. After a few strokes, shape it into a flat disk. Wrap in plastic and chill for about 30 minutes before rolling (if you chill it longer, leave at room temperature a few minutes before rolling).
Store-bought or homemade vanilla ice cream
Roll out dough into a rectangle slightly larger than your largest baking sheet. Line the sheet with parchment paper and transfer the dough to the parchment by gently rolling it around the rolling pin and unrolling it over the parchment. Fold over about 1 inch of the dough’s edge and crimp it all the way around. Place in the freezer until ready to fill (this can be up to two days ahead of time if you wrap it well in plastic).
Freshly ground black pepper
PHOTOGRAPH BY SUSAN SEUBERT
1½ cups sugar 1 cup water 1 cup whipping cream ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch ground nutmeg
To make filling: Peel pears and drop into a large bowl of water with the lemon juice in it. Halve and core pears, cut into half-inch slices and return to the lemon water. Heat oven to 450 degrees. In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil. Add pear slices and reduce heat to low. Simmer for a few minutes to start the cooking process. When pears are barely tender, remove with a slotted spoon, drain well, and spread in the pastry shell in an even layer. Keep the sugar mixture boiling until it starts to caramelize. Watch carefully so the color does not darken beyond a deep amber (the color of an old penny). When this happens, whisk in the cream; it will foam up, so be sure you have ample room in the pot. Add the cinnamon and nutmeg and continue stirring until the mixture becomes a smooth sauce. Pour about a third of the caramel sauce over the crostata and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until golden brown. Carefully slide the parchment and crostata from the pan to a wire rack and let cool. To serve, place a slice of the crostata on each plate with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Drizzle with the remaining caramel sauce and put two or three turns of fresh cracked pepper over the ice cream. — Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson 55
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Not a light menu
Just what’s required to sustain us through the chill of winter — a hearty meal that’s meant to be savored over hours of conversation and multiple bottles of wine. Italian Gougères Three-Cheese Polenta Fennel, Arugula and Tomato Salad Brussels Sprouts With Lemon and Dill Beef Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine Deep, Dark Chocolate Tart
Thinking about drinking / We’ve got two wildly divergent elements on the table, with the astringent brussels sprouts and salad contrasting against the salty puffs and juicy short ribs. This looks like a job for the all-embracing wines of southeastern France’s Rhone river valley. Commence the festivities with a fruity, floral Côtes du Rhône Blanc, a blend of appealing grapes such as peachy viognier, floral roussanne and melon-y marsanne. For example: the Saint Cosme ($20), a tropical cocktail with a bit of picpoul blended in for extra verve. Sip it solo at cocktail hour, then delight in the way its ripe fruit plays against the cheesy puffs. Now for a Côtes du Rhône red. In their
combinations of peppery syrah, strawberry-jam grenache, structured mourvedre and soft cinsault, these blends are notable for their power and complexity. The Burle “E.A.R.L.” is a burly bruiser of a wine for a mere 12 bucks; Le Clos du Caillou offers more herbaceous refinement for $25. Or, stay close to home and sample the Rhone-esque wines of Domaine Pouillon in Lyle, Wash. Their Columbia Valley “Black Dot” ($17.50) is juicy, fruity and spicy, with
undercurrents of ponderosa pine and sagebrush and grassland that would embrace those ornery brussels sprouts. If you’ve got any space in your stomach left for a chocolate tart, wash it down with a sweet southern French Banyuls from a respected producer such as La Tour Vieille, which will run you $25 to $30.
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NOT A LIGHT MENU Catering Delivery Passengers
Italian Gougères MAKES ABOUT 40 BITE-SIZE APPETIZERS
Darryl Joannides likes to use Fra’Mani Salumetto for the salami and a style of pecorino cheese made with black peppercorns. 1¼ cups water ½ teaspoon kosher salt
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5 tablespoons lard or bacon drippings, plus more for greasing pans 1½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour 4 eggs 3½ ounces dry salami, cut in ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup) 4½ ounces pecorino al pepe nero cheese, cut in ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)
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In a saucepan add water, salt and lard and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add flour all at once, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon. When completely combined, cook over medium-low heat until the dough (it will have a pasty consistency) comes away from the sides of the pan. Cook and stir 2 minutes longer, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. Beat one egg at a time into the cooled dough (don’t add the next egg until the dough becomes smooth again). Add salami and cheese, still beating hard to combine. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Grease three baking sheets or line with parchment paper. Drop the dough onto the sheets in mounds of 2 teaspoonfuls each, 2½ inches apart. Alternatively, put half of the dough in a self-sealing plastic bag, snip off ½ inch from a corner, and pipe dough into 1-inch diameter mounds. Bake, one sheet at a time, until the puffs are golden brown and not gooey inside (except for the melted cheese), 15 to 20 minutes. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature; the puffs are best if eaten within an hour or so. — Darryl Joannides
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIAN LEE
Great Wines, The Best Prices
Wine Xing Three-Cheese Polenta
Over 800 Wines!
25977 SW Canyon Creek Rd. Wilsonville
(Near Costco) 503.582.8355 WineXing.com
At Nostrana, Cathy Whims uses Ayers Creek Roy’s Calais Flint polenta, which takes a long time to cook — ideally, 2 hours. Because the liquid evaporates significantly during the long cooking, you may need to add more hot water toward the end in order to keep things creamy— especially if you use a coarse, hard polenta like this, in order to keep things creamy. If you can’t find Ayers Creek, Bob’s Red Mill polenta is fine.
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2 cups polenta 5 to 6 cups water 2 teaspoons salt 4 ounces gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
Shaved Fennel, Arugula and Tomato Salad With Olive Vinaigrette MAKES 8 SERVINGS
For this salad any type of marinated olive works fine, although a mix of black and green olives is best. If you can’t find baby or delicate arugula, use an equal amount of baby spinach instead; mature, large-leafed arugula is too bitter. And get yourself some good extra-virgin olive oil — it makes a huge difference. 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pinch granulated sugar 2 tablespoons chopped olives Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 medium fennel bulbs, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise as thinly as possible 8 cups lightly packed baby or tender arugula 2 to 3 cups ripe cherry or grape tomatoes, halved In a small bowl, combine lemon juice, vinegar, oil and sugar; whisk until emulsified. Stir in olives and adjust seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. (Vinaigrette may be prepared and refrigerated up to 24 hours ahead.) In a larger mixing or salad bowl, combine fennel and vinaigrette and blend until fennel is evenly coated. Gently mix greens into fennel and vinaigrette mixture, followed by tomatoes. Serve immediately. — Matthew Card PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMIE FRANCIS
8 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated 8 ounces fontina Valle d’Aosta, shredded
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¼ cup butter, cut into cubes Stir the polenta, water and salt together in a medium, heavybased saucepan and bring to a boil. Immediately lower heat to a bare simmer, cover the pot and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon or heatproof rubber spatula, until the polenta is no longer gritty at all, at least 45 minutes and up to 2 hours. Add a bit of hot water if the polenta starts to get thick, stiff or dry, and be sure to scrape the sides and bottom as you stir. If you start to get lumps, use a whisk to smooth things out. When the polenta is done, stir in the three cheeses and the butter until melted but not completely mixed in — a few streaks and chunks are good. Pour the polenta onto a heated platter or into a large warm bowl and serve immediately. — Cathy Whims
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A HOLIDAY MEAL made for
BEER It’s time to re-program our What Do Cooks instincts: a special meal doesn’t
Want?
always need a special wine to DIY Dazzle accompany it. Many times, beer is the best choice. Beer writer Modern eggnog, Lucy Birningham and chef believe it or not Andrew Garrett of Cafe Nell concoct a menu for amojo very The Machado hoppy holiday.
Cremant’s a sparkling substitute for Champagne
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NOT A LIGHT MENU Brussels Sprouts With Lemon and Dill MAKES 8 SERVINGS
This recipe doesn’t require much prep ahead of time, and can easily be done on the fly. 2 tablespoons kosher plusPrices Great Wines, Thesalt, Best more to taste
Wine Xing
2 pounds brussels sprouts, ends trimmed 1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely Over chopped 800 Wines! Italian (flat leaf) parsley 25977 SW Canyon Creek Rd. Wilsonville
Costco) 503.582.8355 WineXing.com 2(Near tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
Freshly ground black pepper
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In a large pot, combine the 2 tablespoons salt with 3 quarts water and bring to a boil. Add the brussels sprouts and lemon wedges, reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook for about 8 to 12 minutes, until the sprouts are tender but still firm inside. Drain the brussels sprouts in a colander and rinse for 30 seconds under cold running water to stop the cooking. Discard the lemon wedges.While the brussels sprouts are cooking, put the lemon juice, olive oil, parsley and dill in a & small and winery artbowl gallery whisk well to combine. Taste and season with generously with salt and pepper. Toss the sprouts with the dressing and serve warm or at room temperature. — Christian Krogstad
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Beef Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
8 pounds bone-in beef short ribs Salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 medium white onions, diced 1 carrot, diced 3 stalks celery, trimmed and diced 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 2 whole dried red chiles ¼ cup tomato paste 3 cups red wine 4 cups warm water ½ bunch fresh thyme 1 lemon, zested into wide strips with a vegetable peeler
Trim short ribs to remove any extra fat and silver skin, season ribs on all sides with salt and pepper and let sit in the fridge for 1 hour. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot such as a Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the oil, swirl it around to coat the bottom of the pot. Add short ribs a few at a time, making sure not to crowd the pan. Slowly sear meat on all sides until browned, then transfer to a large platter. Repeat with remaining ribs, keeping an eye on the pot — make sure not to burn all the bits that are stuck to the bottom. After all the ribs are seared, drain off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pot and add the diced vegetables. Let the vegetables cook without stirring until they have caramelized on one side, then stir and repeat. Add the bay leaves, peppercorns, chiles and tomato paste, stirring for a few seconds, then add wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Simmer mixture until the liquid has almost completely evaporated, then add 4 cups warm water. Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large roasting pan, place seared short ribs in
a single layer; pour sauce over the ribs (use two pans if necessary). Add the fresh thyme, lemon zest and 1 teaspoon salt. Pour in additional water if needed, to almost cover the ribs. Cover with a piece of foil pressed down into the pan, then use another piece of foil to seal the top tightly. Bake for 2 hours or until the ribs are fork-tender. Remove from oven and let the ribs sit in the sauce, covered, for 20 to 30 minutes so they can absorb some of the juices. Remove the ribs from the sauce and strain the sauce into a medium saucepan, pressing as much of the juices out of the vegetables as possible. Skim as much fat off of the pan juices as you can. Bring the juices to a boil over high heat, and cook until the sauce is intensely flavored and coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Cover and set aside until ready to serve. Transfer ribs to large serving platter, drizzle with sauce and serve immediately. If you make these ahead, store the meat and sauce separately, then combine them in a large pan and gently reheat until the meat is heated through. — Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson
Deep, Dark Chocolate Tart MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Since there’s only a small amount of chocolate in this tart, it’s a good chance to splurge on one with great character. Though Manis often uses a limited edition Bonnat Porcelana bar (the perks of running a chocolate shop!), the more common Felchlin Arriba or Pralus Fortissima, both of which have earthy, raisiny flavors, would be delicious. Pâte sucrée: 11⁄3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon salt ¾ cup unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes (1½ sticks) About 3 tablespoons ice water Filling: 2½ ounces dark chocolate, preferably 72 percent to 80 percent cacao, finely chopped 6 tablespoons milk 6 tablespoons whipping cream ⁄3 cup granulated sugar
1
4 egg yolks
M.P. Roux Whipping Cream MAKES 2 CUPS
Elisir M.P. Roux is an herbal liqueur with anise notes. If you like, substitute a good-quality anisette that’s not too assertive. You can also serve the cream with fresh berries. 1 cup whipping cream 1 teaspoon M.P. Roux liqueur Whip cream until it forms firm peaks. Add the liqueur, whipping just to combine. Cream should be dense and thick. Serve immediately. — Jesse Manis
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To make pâte sucrée: In a food processor add flour, sugar and salt; pulse to combine. Add butter, continuing to pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Turn the mixture into a large bowl. Add water 1 tablespoon at a time and gently combine with your hands until the dough holds together (you may not need all 3 tablespoons water). Briefly knead, press into a 6-inch disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to an 12- to 13inch circle, flouring as needed. Place on top of a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Lift the edges of the dough round to ease it into the pan and press gently so it lines the inner edge. Use the rolling pin or paring knife to trim excess dough from the rim. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Position rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 375 degrees. Place tart pan on a baking sheet. Prick the bottom of the tart shell with a fork, line with foil or parchment and add pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove the PHOTOGRAPH BY MARTIN THIEL
parchment and weights and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes or until crust is golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a rack. Cover with foil and set aside. You can make this up to a day ahead. To make filling: Heat oven to 325 degrees. Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring the milk, cream and sugar to a boil over medium heat, stirring to ensure the sugar dissolves. Pour half of the boiling milk-cream mixture over the chocolate and let sit, undisturbed, for 2 to 3 minutes. Gently stir until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Add egg yolks to the remaining milk-cream mixture and stir gently; allow to cool slightly. Combine the egg mixture with the chocolate mixture and stir until smooth. Spread the chocolate mixture over the baked crust and bake for 15 to 20 minutes until set. Cool completely. Serve with M.P. Roux Whipping Cream. — Jesse Manis
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Pretend we’re Italian
Who doesn’t like Italian food best? This menu’s not actually very authentic (what Italian has pasta as a main dish?) but we don’t care — the recipes are molto bene. Bagna Cauda Prosciutto Pizza With Arugula and Parmesan Spaghetti alla Puttanesca Hazelnut Crisp With Berries and Peaches
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Thinking about drinking / Italian menu? Italian wine. Andiamo. Let’s start things off nice and easy with a simple Soave from the Veneto. With its chamomile-and-citrus palate, this neutral white won’t conflict with the slick and savory bagna cauda or the salt-and-bitter notes of the pizza-salad course. Pick a reliable producer like Inama ($14), and you’ve got a wine that will go with the flow. With a piquant pasta sauce like a
puttanesca, we want a bold red from Piedmont. Something like a juicy barbera mixed with a profound Barolo, only much lighterbodied. That leads us to dolcetto, which can be completely satisfying in the $12 to $20 range. A couple of labels we like: Marchesi di Gresy Monte Aribaldo and Boroli Madonna di Como. (We also enjoy Ponzi Vineyards’ Oregon interpretation of the grape,
but that will cost you $25.) That hazelnut crisp will taste even sweeter alongside a vin santo, the luscious raisin wine from Tuscany. Although these half-bottle beauties tend to hover around the $40 mark, some producers (such as Falchini) offer quality for closer to $20, so shop around. Salute!
PRETEND WE’RE ITALIAN Bagna Cauda With Crudités MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This is a simple-to-make but deeply flavored Italian dip. We suggest raw vegetables as dippers, but cooked shrimp, little balls of fresh mozzarella (bocconcini) or even cubes of cold roast beef would be delicious, too. 8 cloves garlic 10 anchovy fillets ¼ cup unsalted butter (½ stick) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 bay leaves 1 large sprig thyme Pinch crushed red pepper flakes Crudités, such as radishes, Belgian endive, fennel, baby carrots, sugar snap peas, celery, asparagus or blanched cauliflower
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Mince garlic and anchovies together into a paste (or use a mortar and pestle). Transfer to a small saucepan and add butter, oil, bay leaves, thyme and red pepper flakes. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until anchovies have mostly dissolved and ingredients have softened and blended, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove bay leaves and thyme and serve warm with crudites. — Matthew Card
Prosciutto Pizza With Arugula and Parmesan Salad MAKES FOUR 8-INCH PIZZAS
Instead of using tomato sauce, this “white pizza” features an herb-and-garlic-infused olive oil topped with thinly sliced Italian prosciutto and a sprightly arugula salad with elegant shavings of parmesan. It’s a freshtasting meal on a crust and takes minutes to prepare. 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 2 teaspoons minced fresh herbs (rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage) 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 pound pizza dough Cornmeal 3 cups arugula leaves 1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 ounces thinly sliced prosciuto, torn into large ribbons
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROB FINCH
½ cup shaved parmesan cheese
Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add the fresh herbs and garlic, remove from heat and allow oil to steep for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat grill to medium heat. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces and then roll each into an 8-inch round on a lightly floured surface. Stack between sheets of parchment or wax paper on a small baking sheet and set aside. When the grill is ready, sprinkle the pizza peel with a generous pinch of cornmeal. Put a dough round on the peel and then slide it onto the grill with a quick jerk. Cook until bubbles form and the underside is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip dough with a spatula or tongs, brush liberally with infused oil, making sure none of the oil drips into the fire and causes flare-ups. Top with a fourth of the prosciutto and grill until the crust is browned on bottom, about 2 minutes more. Repeat with remaining dough, oil and prosciutto. (You can finish grilling one pizza while starting another dough round at the same time. Transfer finished pizzas to a baking sheet and cover loosely with foil while grilling remaining pizzas.) Toss the arugula, lemon juice and remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a large salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Top each pizza with a glorious mound of arugula, sprinkle with parmesan cheese and serve. — Ivy Manning
Spaghetti alla Puttanesca MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
The basic sauce can be prepared several days in advance, allowed to cool completely and refrigerated. It also freezes well and the ingredients can easily be doubled to make a larger batch. Basic tomato sauce: 2 tablespoons garlic, minced finely ¼ cup olive oil 1 28-ounce can Italian whole plum tomatoes, with juices 1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Puttanesca: 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 4 Roma tomatoes, diced small ½ cup pitted and coarsely chopped gaeta or kalamata olives 2 tablespoons salt-packed capers (preferably large ones), soaked in warm water for 5 minutes and drained Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup dry white wine
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2½ cups basic tomato sauce (see above) 1 pound spaghetti ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley To make tomato sauce: In a large sauté pan, sauté the garlic in the olive oil over medium heat. Add the canned tomatoes and their juices, using a spoon to break up the tomatoes. Add the salt, pepper, oregano and red pepper flakes, and stir to combine. Turn heat to low and allow to simmer for 1 to 2 hours, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan occasionally, until reduced to a thick, flavorful sauce (you should have about 2½ cups). To make puttanesca: In a medium sauté pan over mediumhigh heat, heat the olive oil and add the anchovies. Cook, stirring, until dissolved, then add the garlic and sauté. When the garlic begins to brown, quickly add the diced tomatoes, olives, capers and black pepper to taste. Stir to combine. Add the white wine and simmer until the tomatoes begin to soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the basic tomato sauce and cook over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. While the sauce is cooking, cook the spaghetti in salted water according to package directions; do not overcook. Drain the pasta and put in a large bowl. Pour the puttanesca sauce over the top and toss to combine. Top with freshly grated parmigiano and chopped Italian parsley. — Darryl Joannides
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIAN LEE
PRETEND WE’RE ITALIAN Hazelnut Crisp With Berries and Peaches MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
You will need a medium-size oven-safe skillet or comparably sized pan (10 to 11 inches across). Feel free to mix any variety of berries for this crisp. If they are particularly sweet or tart, adjust the amount of added sugar to suit your taste. Make sure the butter is quite soft, but not melted; the topping will not come together if the butter is too cold. If adding strawberries, core and quarter them. ¾ cup hazelnuts, lightly toasted, peeled and coarsely chopped (divided; see note) 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar (divided) ¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar Salt 1 tablespoon vanilla 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 medium-large ripe peaches, peeled and roughly chopped 3 cups mixed berries 2 teaspoons cornstarch
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Adjust oven rack to middle rack and heat oven to 400 degrees. In a food processor combine ¼ cup nuts, flour, ¼ cup granulated sugar, brown sugar and large pinch salt. Process 10 seconds; with machine running, pour in vanilla through feed tube. Add butter and process until topping comes together into loose ball with a few smaller crumbs, 20 to 30 seconds. Set aside. Add peaches to a 10- to11-inch skillet and scatter berries over top. Sprinkle cornstarch, remaining 3 tablespoons granulated sugar and a pinch of salt over the top. Using rubber spatula, gently mix together. Pinch off small pieces of topping mixture and scatter in even layer over top of berries. Scatter remaining nuts on top and bake until the filling is bubbling and the topping is dark golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Note: To toast hazelnuts, spread the shelled nuts in a shallow pan and roast in a 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until the skins crack. Rub warm nuts with a rough cloth or between your hands to remove as much skin as possible. — Matthew Card PHOTOGRAPH BY BETH NAKAMURA
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We could just about live on cheese alone A SMALL GUIDE TO CHEESE COURSES BY MARTHA HOLMBERG
While a chunk of cheese can be a meal in itself, a cheese course is a splendid way to segue from big, savory main courses into dessert. A few thin slices of walnut bread, a sliver or two or three of cheese, maybe some sweet-tangy fruit compote or membrillo – it adds up to a pause, some rich bites to pair with the last half-glass of wine, a resting place for those streams of conversation that wound their way through the main part of the meal. Simple principles: You can have one glorious cheese on its own or an assortment that plays well together. Three perfect cheeses is just about right; I’ll sometimes do as many as five, but I think that’s tops. A classic (French) approach is to cover the bases in terms of animals that produced the milk in the first place – in other words, have a cow’s milk, a sheep’s milk and a goat’s milk cheese. Also look to cheese types, which can roughly be divided into five categories – fresh, bloomy-rind (such as camembert), washed rind (often nicely stinky), a harder aged cheese, and blue-veined. There are more categories, but this is an easy way to think of cheese as you’re starting out.
Our classic five: Fraga Fresh Goat Ancient Heritage Adelle Rivers Edge St. Olga Estrella Black Creek Buttery Rogue Creamery Rogue River Blue
< Fraga (fresh goat): slightly tart and minerally with floral dairy aromas
> Adelle (bloomy
rind sheep and cow blend): mellow and mushroomy but with a hint of tartness
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<
Black Creek Buttery (aged cheddar-style cow): smooth-textured with complex earthy, grassy flavors
<
St. Olga (washed rind goat): smooth-textured, buttery, earthy and tangy
< Rogue River Blue
(blue-veined cow): wrapped in grape leaves, washed in pear brandy, salty-sweet, slightly fruity
Our vertical trio of goats:
Our solo star:
Juniper Grove
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Rivers Edge Sunset Bay Cypress Grove Midnight Moon
<
Midnight Moon (aged): gouda-style with caramelly sweet notes
<
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Sunset Bay (bloomy-rind): silky and creamy with a layer of smoked paprika running through the center
<
Parmigiano-Reggiano (aged cow): nutty and fruity with a crumbly, sometimes crystalline texture. Drizzle with true balsamic vinegar or a less expensive balsamic that you’ve boiled until syrupy, then cooled. £
<
Juniper Grove (fresh): tart and citrusy, with an earthy finish
Dinner party / credits
A list of who created the dishes (published in prior MIX issues)
Wine and food pairings for all menus created by Katherine Cole, wine columnist for MIX and The Oregonian
Recipe creator’s name is first, photographer’s name is second.
29 Fancy vegetarian
Strawberry Fool With Cornmeal Shortbread, June/July 2008, Ivy Manning, Beth Nakamura
11 Latin fever
Avocado and Goat Cheese Dip, Holiday 2008, Randal St. Clair
51 Dressy dinner
Excellent Margaritas, Holiday 2007, Adapted by Sarah Hart from Cook’s Illustrated, Martin Thiel
Pumpkin Sformato With Balsamico Condimento, Holiday 2007, Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson, Susan Seubert
Tender Greens With Herb and Lemon Goat Cheese Crostini, August/September 2008, Martha Holmberg, Mike Davis
Avocado and Tomatillo Salsa, June/July 2009, Gilberto Martín del Campo, Mike Davis
Polenta With Mushroom Ragout, October/ November 2008, Laura B. Russell, Mike Davis
Grill-Roasted Pork Marinated in Orange Juice and Spices (Cochinita Pibil), June/July 2009, Gilberto Martín del Campo, Mike Davis
Winter Greens Salad With Crisp Vegetables and Pumpkinseed Oil Vinaigrette, Holiday 2008, Chris Israel, Adam Levey
Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup With Dill and Sour Cream, Holiday 2008, Chris Israel, Adam Levey
Quick Chicken Mole, April/May 2009, Matthew Card, Beth Nakamura
Mocha Bread Pudding, April/May 2009, Matthew Card, Beth Nakamura
Zucchini “Pasta” Salad, June/July 2009, Peter Syzmczak
35 Steak and salad
Extra Bittersweet, Very Gooey Brownies, Holiday 2007, Sarah Hart, Martin Thiel
17 Asian fusion Peking Duck Pancakes, Holiday 2008, Randal St. Clair, Beth Nakamura Seasoned Ground Chicken and Pork (Tsukune), June/July 2008, Gabe Rosen, Motoya Nakamura Miso-Glazed Scallops, June/July 2008, Gabe Rosen, Motoya Nakamura Maguro Poke, June/July 2008, Gabe Rosen, Motoya Nakamura Nepalese Spicy Shredded Chicken (Chwelah), February/March 2009, Bikram Vaidya, Mike Davis
Roasted Red Pepper Soup With Minted Crème Fraîche, Premiere issue 2007, Paul Klitsie, Fredrick D. Joe Panzanella Salad, Premiere issue 2007, Paul Klitsie, Fredrick D. Joe Grilled Grass-Fed Steak With Salsa Verde, August/September 2008, Adapted from Matthew Card, Mike Davis Milk Chocolate Gelato With Toasted Whole Hazelnuts, April/May 2009, Sarah Joannides, Brian Lee
39 Both sides of the Mediterranean Fava Bean and Fresh Mint Tapenade, June/ July 2009, Anne Hubatch, Susan Seubert Saffron Rice, August/September 2009, JJ DeSousa
Cinnamon Panna Cotta With Coffee-Caramel Sauce, April/May 2009, Matthew Card, Beth Nakamura
Ras Al-Hanout Spiced Chicken Tagine With Chocolate Harissa, August/September 2008, Jesse Manis and Charles Stilwell, Martin Thiel
23 Summer dreaming
Sautéed Swiss Chard, February/March 2009, Adapted by Martha Holmberg, Mike Davis
Grilled Garlic-Rubbed Bread Topped With Arugula, Lemon and Grana Padano, April/May 2009, Darryl Joannides, Brian Lee Summer Squash and Tomato Gratin, June/ July 2008, Ivy Manning, Beth Nakamura Herbed Pork Roulade, June/July 2009, Anne Hubatch, Susan Seubert Cornmeal Shortcakes With Berries and Brown Sugar Whipped Cream, June/July 2009, Matthew Card, Beth Nakamura
Glazed Fresh Figs With Honey-Rum Zabaglione, Premiere issue 2007, Paul Klitsie, Martha Holmberg
45 Fish in a spring state of mind Zesty Feta Cheese Appetizer, October/ November 2008, Athena Pappas, Susan Seubert Crepes With Pesto and Arugula, Premiere issue 2007, Paul Klitsie, Fredrick D. Joe Roasted Cauliflower With Lemon, Capers and Parsley, August/September 2008, Martha Holmberg, Mike Davis Roasted Halibut With Green-Olive Relish, October/November 2008, Laura B. Russell, Mike Davis
Braised Chicken With Buttery Leeks, October/ November 2008, Laura B. Russell, Mike Davis Pear Crostata With Warm Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream and Black Pepper, Holiday 2007, Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson, Susan Seubert
57 Not a light menu Italian Gougères, April/May 2009, Darryl Joannides, Brian Lee Shaved Fennel, Arugula and Tomato Salad With Olive Vinaigrette, Premiere issue 2007, Matthew Card, Jamie Francis Three-Cheese Polenta, online only, Cathy Whims Brussels Sprouts With Lemon and Dill, Christian Krogstad, Martin Thiel Beef Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine, Holiday 2007, Carmen Peirano and Eric Ferguson, Susan Seubert Deep, Dark Chocolate Tart With M.P. Roux Whipping Cream, August/September 2008, Jesse Manis, Martin Thiel
63 Pretend we’re Italian Bagna Cauda With Crudités, Premiere issue 2007, Matthew Card Prosciutto Pizza With Arugula and Parmesan Salad, August/September 2008, Ivy Manning, Rob Finch Spaghetti alla Puttanesca, April/May 2009, Darryl Joannides, Brian Lee Hazelnut Crisp With Berries and Peaches, June/July 2009, Matthew Card, Beth Nakamura
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Dinner party / index
An easy way to look for recipes
Appetizers and first courses Avocado and Goat Cheese Dip 30 Avocado and Tomatillo Salsa 12 Bagna Cauda With Crudités 64
Tender Greens With Herb and Lemon Goat Cheese Crostini 52
Crepes With Pesto and Arugula 47
Winter Greens Salad With Crisp Vegetables and Pumpkinseed Oil Vinaigrette 32
Excellent Margaritas 12
Zucchini “Pasta” Salad 14
Fava Bean and Fresh Mint Tapenade 40
Pizza, pasta, polenta
Grilled Garlic-Rubbed Bread Topped With Arugula, Lemon and Grana Padano 24
Polenta With Mushroom Ragoût 31
Italian Gougères 58
Prosciutto Pizza With Arugula and Parmesan Salad 64
Maguro Poke 19
Spaghetti alla Puttanesca 65
Miso-Glazed Scallops 19
Three-Cheese Polenta 59
Nepalese Spicy Shredded Chicken (Chwelah) 20
Main dishes
Peking Duck Pancakes 18 Pumpkin Sformato With Balsamico Condimento 30 Seasoned Ground Chicken and Pork (Tsukune) 19 Zesty Feta Cheese Appetizer 46 74 72
Shaved Fennel, Arugula and Tomato Salad With Olive Vinaigrette 59
Soups and salads
Beef Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine 60
Side dishes Brussels Sprouts With Lemon and Dill 60 Panzanella Salad 36 Roasted Cauliflower With Lemon, Capers and Parsley 47 Saffron Rice 40 Sautéed Swiss Chard 42 Summer Squash and Tomato Gratin 25 Zucchini “Pasta” Salad 14 Desserts Cinnamon Panna Cotta With CoffeeCaramel Sauce 21 Cornmeal Shortcakes With Berries and Brown Sugar Whipped Cream 27
Braised Chicken With Buttery Leeks 54
Deep, Dark Chocolate Tart With M.P. Roux Whipping Cream 61
Grilled Grass-Fed Steak With Salsa Verde 37
Extra Bittersweet, Very Gooey Brownies 15
Grill-Roasted Pork Marinated in Orange Juice and Spices (Cochinita Pibil) 13
Glazed Fresh Figs With Honey-Rum Zabaglione 43
Herbed Pork Roulade 26
Hazelnut Crisp With Berries and Peaches 66
Polenta With Mushroom Ragout 31
Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup With Dill and Sour Cream 53
Quick Chicken Mole 14
Milk Chocolate Gelato With Toasted Whole Hazelnuts 38
Panzanella Salad 36
Ras Al-Hanout Spiced Chicken Tagine With Chocolate Harissa 41
Mocha Bread Pudding 33
Roasted Halibut With Green-Olive Relish 48
Pear Crostata With Warm Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream and Black Pepper 55
Roasted Red Bell Pepper Soup With Minted Crème Fraîche 36
Spaghetti alla Puttanesca 65
Strawberry Fool With Cornmeal Shortbread 49
We’re not finished partying To get more recipes, along with party ideas, timelines, drink suggestions and even playlists, go to MIXPDX.COM.
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