MIX Magazine November 2011

Portland, P ortlan rtland, d, November November 2011 2 011 Eat Eat D Drink rink Ge rink G Get et Out Out ut Get Get Together Toget Tog ether

Perfect cheese plate, undiscovered wines Digestifs to finish the feast A deliciously irreverent gift guide

Buck Tradition NOVEMBER 2011

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Celebrating the season with chefs’ recipes for duck, pheasant and other game birds / P24 A fresh take on classic side dishes / P33

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editor’s note When I was a newly food-obsessed teen, nerding out on the latest release from my cookbook-ofthe-month subscription and eschewing fashion mags for Bon Appetit and Gourmet, I would go crazy over Thanksgiving. Christmas, too. I’d spend hours selecting the trickiest, most elaborate recipes for the holiday meals, then lobby my family incessantly to let me make them. They never did.

Looking back, I can see how that was probably a good thing, considering my ambition and my abilities hadn’t quite caught up with each other.

And I can see now how the ever-unchanging menu, with its Jell-O salads and green bean casserole, was comforting. It was predictable, yes, but it was also tradition — and you don’t mess with that. Well, at least not in my family.

I, on the other hand, am a creature of nonhabits. Try as I might, I can’t sustain a Want to be sure you single daily ritual. So get every issue of MIX? to me, the holidays Subscribe! are just a great excuse to throw a 10 issues, $20 big dinner party. The Go to mixpdx.com tradition is in the or call 503-221-8240.

4

gathering. The meal? A welcome opportunity to make something new.

Some might think that’s sacrilege, and I completely understand. But I also know I’m not the only one who feels this way. So, as we approach the most traditional time of year, we’ve filled the pages of MIX with recipes and ideas that buck tradition — but only very gently.

Instead of the usual turkey and stuffing recipes, we took a page (and some recipes) from local chefs and turned to game birds instead.

They’re still poultry, so it’s not a complete departure from tradition, but because they’re unexpected they feel a lot more celebratory.

Plus, if you’re having a small gathering, they just make sense.

We also put together a collection of side dishes that are utterly familiar, and yet subtly, excitingly different. Instead of creamed spinach we offer a flavorful kale gratin. Instead of sweet

cranberry sauce, we have piquant cranberry chutney.

And, because this month is the start of the biggest shopping season of the year, we put together a gift guide. But you won’t find the same pots and knives and mixers you’ve seen before. The guide is grounded in the Northwest, especially Portland, and the selections reflect our region’s arts, crafts and quirk.

We hope you’ll find at least a few things to inspire you to try something new this year. But our biggest hope for the holidays is that you enjoy your time with friends and family. Because it doesn’t matter what’s on your menu, as long as it brings everyone together.

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH BY JOeL DAvIS

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where to find the reCiPeS in thiS iSSUe:

Sweet Hereafter, p60

24 a NoN-turkey turkey Day Put the big bird on hiatus and set your sights on delicious game birds instead

33 oN the SiDe

39 ’tiS a GiFt

Refreshing spins on familiar favorites like green bean casserole and sweet potatoes

to be local Delicious finds for food lovers of all stripes

iN every iSSue 53 i.D. Getting to know Brenda Crow

11 StarterS Saucy cocktails, KitchenCru coolness, cereal milkshake, best canelé in PDX

54 mixmaSter A tasty lineup of digestifs to finish the feast

17 raDar Where to go and what to do this month 19 Pubcrawl Burnside Brewery blurs the line between beer and food

22 GooD cheeSe A blueprint for the perfect cheese plate

49 Five wiNeS Brent Braun’s picks for delightfully undiscovered local wines

57 SceNe Reviews of Cocotte and Sunshine Tavern, 10 great cheap eats 64 hiGh Five Great places to stay in the Willamette Valley AVA

on THe CoVeR instead of a predictable pie for Thanksgiving, pastry chef Kir Jensen created this cornmealcrusted crostata with a spiral of apples and prune compote.

PHoToGRAPH BY MiKe DAViS THiS PAGe: Sweet Hereafter, a hip new vegan hangout on Southeast Belmont Street, is one of our picks for great cheap eats this month.

PHoToGRAPH BY BRiAn lee

oNliNe extraS at mixPdx.Com: • Re-create St. Jack pastry

chef Alissa Rozos’ winning canelé recipe

• Shake up Bent Brick bartender

Adam Robinson’s Path to Victory Cocktail

• Find out where to buy our

november wines in time for the big day

Main Dishes • Bourbon-Glazed Duck Breast with Smoked Mashed Potatoes, p26 • Quail Stuffed With Apples and Chanterelles, p26 • Braised Squab With Chestnut and Raisin Stuffing, p28 • Cider-Braised Guinea Fowl and Stuffed Turnips, p29 • Pheasant Under a Brick With Figs, Chanterelles and Gnocchi, p30 siDes • Chanterelle and Green Bean Casserole, p34 • Kale-Gruyère Gratin, p35 • Cranberry-Apple Chutney, p36 • Gingery Cider-Glazed Sweet Potatoes, p36 SoUPS AnD SAlADS • Squab Stock, p28 DeSSeRTS • Apple and Prune Cornmeal Crostata, p37 DRinKS • The Transatlantic Cocktail, p11 • Cranberry Jalapeño Margarita, p12 • Black Wednesday, p12

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contributors

Jennifer Cossey, who compiled our saucy cranberry cocktail recipes on Page 11, discovered her interest in wine and spirits while going to school in California. â&#x20AC;&#x153;There arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many things I love more than Thanksgiving leftovers and a good craft cocktail,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Working with the mixologists to put together these drinks was inspiring. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to mix them up this holiday season.â&#x20AC;? Currently the wine director for Veritable Quandary in Portland, Cossey is a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers and a Certified Specialist of Wine through the Society of Wine Educators. She has written for Oregon Wine Press, Sommelier Journal, Northwest Palate Magazine and 1859 Magazine.

Photographer Mike Davis has called Oregon home for several years now, after working at the White House, National Geographic magazine and several of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading newspapers. He has earned all kinds of honors, including picture editor of the year a couple of times.

But this month, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sad to say, the extremely talented, funny and warm-hearted Davis shot his last feature for MIX as a Portland resident (Page 24). â&#x20AC;&#x153;I started working on MIX with its first issue four years ago. Now my wife and I are moving east for her new university faculty position,â&#x20AC;? Davis says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As we made pictures of yummy game birds we remembered the many times weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve worked together â&#x20AC;&#x201D; all the stellar food, the wonderful images, designs of a national caliber. Makes me sad to be leaving. Hopefully Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll make a guest appearance when I return to visit. In the meantime, thank you for the memories.â&#x20AC;?

8

Author/journalist Jim Gullo moved to McMinnville in 2008, where he launched oregonwine.com â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a webzine covering the industry. As a wine country resident immersed in the goings-on of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vintners, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discovered some truly great places to stay, many of them owned by the winemakers themselves (High Five, Page 64). â&#x20AC;&#x153;I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think of anything more pleasant than waking up to the sight of vineyards outside your window, the smell of coffee brewing and a day of wineryhopping ahead,â&#x20AC;? he says. His book, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Trading Manny,â&#x20AC;? about teaching baseball to his son Joe during the steroids scandal, will be published in March by DaCapo Press.

In over 20 years of testing recipes, Linda Faus, who tested our game bird recipes on page 24, had never tasted smoked mashed potatoes, but she quickly found out theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a revelation. Luckily, those 20 years of recipe testing helped her figure out a way for home cooks to duplicate chef Sara Schaferâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technique using equipment they likely have on hand. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Finding new flavors or old flavors interpreted in new ways makes my job lots of fun and very rewarding.â&#x20AC;? Faus is a freelance food writer, recipe developer and recipe tester who has worked for The Oregonianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s FOODday section, MIX magazine and various cookbook authors.

Other COntributing Writers: GRANT BUTLER, PAUL CLARkE, ShoShANNA CohEN, kAThERiNE CoLE, LESLiE CoLE, SAShA DAviES, JohN FoySToN, AShLEy GARTLAND, ADRiAN J.S. hALE, kAREN LoCkE, ivy MANNiNG, DEENA PRiChEP Other COntributing PhOtOgraPhers/illustratOrs: DoUG BEGhTEL, oLiviA BUCkS, RoSS wiLLiAM hAMiLToN, BRiAN LEE, MoToyA NAkAMURA, TAyLoR SChEFSTRoM, RAy whiTEhoUSE

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mixpdx.com DANIELLE CENTONI / EDITOR

dcentoni@oregonian.com

LINDA SHANKWEILER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR

lshankweiler@oregonian.com REED DARMON / DESIGNER

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WALLY BENSON, COLIN pOWERS, AMY REIfENRATH / COPY EDITORS ADVERTISING BARBARA SWANSON / VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND MARKETING bswanson@oregonian.com, 503-221-8279 STEvE uRBAN / MIX MAGAZINE MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 DENICE WILLIAMS / RETAIL ADVERTISING MANAGER dwilliams@oregonian.com, 503-221-8514 DEBI WALERY / GENERAL ADVERTISING MANAGER dwalery@oregonian.com, 503-221-8302 RYAN COuRTNEY / AUTO, REAL ESTATE ADVERTISING MANAGER rcourtney@oregonian.com, 503-221-8329

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Printed on recycled paper

starters

Page 12: spreadable cookies, Canelé taste-off Page 14: Wheat shakes, KitchenCru goodies

11

Drink Your Leftover Cranberries The holidays are upon us and that can only mean one thing — leftovers. The turkey and stuffing are easily taken care of, but the cranberry sauce is another story. After the first few post-feast sandwiches, it eventually gets shoved to the back of the fridge, where it finds its final resting place. But there’s another use for the tart-sweet preserves: cocktails. The cranberry is no stranger to spirits, after all. To get you started, we asked three of Portland’s leading cocktail minds to create easy, not-too-fussy drinks using canned cranberry sauce, but you can experiment with whatever mild-mannered version you have on hand. —Jennifer Cossey

1

The Transatlantic Cocktail

This simple drink, pictured above, has a gorgeous ruby color and richness on the palate, thanks to the jellied cranberry sauce. “it’s a beautiful drink visually, has a great texture and balance of flavor,” says Kyle Webster, bartender at st. Jack. “it conjures up Thanksgiving — and the holiday season in general — in a glass.”

Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice. shake for 10 to15 seconds until cold. strain through the large holes of the shaker into a cocktail glass (but don’t use a cocktail strainer or double strain, as the cranberry particles add texture). Garnish with a lemon twist.

2 tablespoons jellied cranberry sauce

Note: st. elizabeth’s Allspice Dram is a “pimento dram” — a traditional rum-based liqueur flavored with allspice that’s commonly used in tiki drinks.

But its flavors of sweet baking spices make it a versatile ingredient in many autumnal cocktails, too. you can use it in mulled wine, or even add a little to apple-based desserts. Check the oLCC website for a list of stores that carry it.

— Kyle Webster, St. Jack, Portland

1 ounce silver rum (preferably aged) ½ ounce cognac (Webster recommends Hennessy Vs) ½ ounce orange liqueur (Webster recommends Cointreau) ¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice 1 bar spoon allspice dram (such as st. elizabeth’s; see note) ice

PHoToGrAPHy

By MiKe DAVis

Garnish: lemon twist

startersCont. more craNberry sauce cocktails

2

Cranberry Jalapeño Margarita

MAKes 1 serVinG At Mint/820, owner-bartender Lucy Brennan offers two drinks that can be made spicy for heat seekers looking for a fix. “That’s where i got the inspiration for this drink,” she says, which can be made as spicy as you like. “Plus it’s accessible and easy to make as well as delicious.”

2½ ounces silver tequila ¼ ounce orange liqueur (such as Cointreau) ½ ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice ½ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice 1 ounce simple syrup (see note)

Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice. shake for 10 to15 seconds until cold. strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a slice of lime Notes: To make simple syrup, combine equal parts sugar and water and heat until sugar is dissolved. refrigerate until cold before using.

splash of cranberry juice ¼ ounce to ½ ounce CranberryJalapeño Purée (see note) ice Garnish: lime slice

3 12

To make the CranberryJalapeño Purée, combine 1 (14-ounce) can whole berry cranberry sauce and 1 jalapeño (cut in half, and half the seeds removed) in a blender. Purée, then strain before using.

— Lucy Brennan, Mint/820, Portland

Black Wednesday

forget shoppers and their “Black friday” super sales. for bartenders, the big night is “Black Wednesday,” when all the college students are home for the holidays. “Black Wednesday is one of my favorite parts about the Thanksgiving season,” says Beaker & flask’s Brandon Wise. “it’s always a big night for bars and an opportunity to reunite with old friends and family over a cocktail or two.” This cocktail, with its whiskey, cranberry and sweet spices, is a great way to celebrate the season. “it reminds me of lazy turkey-filled days, enjoying the company of family and friends,” Wise says.

2 ounces rye whiskey ¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice ½ ounce Amaro nonino (see Page 54) ¼ ounce allspice dram (such as st. elizabeth’s; see note in The Transatlantic Cocktail) ¼ ounce simple syrup (see note) 2 tablespoons cranberry sauce (jellied or whole-berry will work) ice Garnish: whole cranberry, brandied cherry or cinnamon stick

Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice. shake for 10 to 15 seconds until cold. Double strain (pour through a cocktail strainer as well as a fine-mesh sieve) into a highball glass filled with ice. Garnish with a cranberry, brandied cherry or cinnamon stick.

Note: To make simple syrup, combine equal parts sugar and water and heat until sugar is dissolved. refrigerate until cold before using.

— Brandon Wise, Beaker & Flask, Portland

guilty pleasure lotus baKery's bisCoff spread if eating a handful of cookies isn’t decadent enough, how about grinding them up, mixing them with a little oil to make them spreadable, then slathering them on your morning toast?

That’s exactly what the Belgians have done, taking thin, gingersnap-like cookies called speculoos (also known as speculaas, Biscoff and “airline cookies,” because they’ve been handed out on Delta flights for about 20 years) and turning them into a sweet spread.

Like a caramelly, cinnamon- and ginger-spiced version of nutella (though without even nutella’s negligible nutritional value), the spread is wildly popular in The netherlands, Belgium

and france, and is starting to make waves in our corner of the world, too. Well, at least it is in new york, where the Wafels & Dinges food cart earned a spot on the city’s culinary map by using its own version as a topping for Belgian waffles. still, considering Portland’s obsession with waffles and crepes, and the fact that the spread is insanely good on pretty much anything (it’s crazy-good with apples), it’s bound to catch on here, too. one of the biggest manufacturers, Lotus Bakeries, launched the product in U.s. stores last April. so far in oregon it’s available for $4.99 at World Market. or order it online at biscoff.com.

— DAnieLLe CenToni

Who makes the best canelé in Portland?

Canelés are hard to classify. Are they a cookie? A cake? These specialties of the Bordeaux region in france are really in a class of their own. The best among them have a crackly, caramelized outer shell that melts into a soft, caky-custardy interior — an obsessioninducing combination that defies categorization. Made from just a few humble ingredients (eggs, sugar, milk, flour, vanilla and sometimes rum) canelés owe their unique texture to how they are baked. After resting overnight, the batter is baked in special molds for more than an hour to develop the crust’s caramelized crunch.

The golden, crown-like treats have become a common sight in pastry cases around Portland. At last count, five local bakeries had them in their regular lineup: Alder, st. Honoré, nuvrei, Ken’s and st. Jack. Who, we wondered, made our ideal version? Well, we'd just have to find out. one recent morning we gathered canelés from each bakery and conducted a blind tasting. Although we liked them all (there's truly no such thing as a bad canelé), one in particular stood out in spades. With their delicately crisp, burnt-sugar shells and lush, creamy, vanilla-bespeckled custard within, st. Jack’s canelés reminded us of rich, creamy crème brulée you could hold in the palm of your hand.

And, really, it doesn't get much better than that. — ADriAn J.s. HALe PHoToGrAPH By MiKe DAVis

 online eXtra: get st. Jack pastry chef alissa rozos’ canelé recipe at miXpdX.Com

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15

startersCont. eat this / brainy food At its best, food can be a window into another culture, teaching us as much about life as it does about cuisine. Marco frattaroli at Basta’s Trattoria has taken this idea even further, and paired up with professors of art, classics and literature for a monthly series of Tuesday-night dinners putting italian cuisine in its cultural and historical context. on nov. 1, you can eat like an ancient roman as Walter englert, professor of classics and humanities at reed College, talks about the surprisingly healthy diet of the roman empire, which consisted of mostly leafy greens, fish, nuts and legumes. on Dec. 6, reed professor (and former oregonian restaurant critic) roger Porter rounds out a Jewish-italian feast with the story of italian Jews’ history, culture and culinary influences. Dinners start at 6:30 p.m. and cost $40 (not including wine and gratuity). — DeenA PriCHeP

PDX Biryani

410 N.W. 21st St., 503-274-1572; bastastrattoria.com

drinK this batido de trigo (aKa Wheat milKshaKe) hmm … a wheat milkshake. doesn’t sound very appealing, does it? or does it? think about it. the milk leftover from your bowl of lucky Charms? sweet, cereally and downright yummy. and that’s what the batido de trigo ($2.50) at el Cubo de Cuba food cart tastes like, with a fragrant hit of cinnamon. the shakes, a traditional Cuban treat made with puffed wheat cereal, sugar, milk and ice, are autumnally appropriate, refreshing and deliciously comforting. We’ll take it over a pumpkin latte any day. — danielle Centoni

14

Pieku

Good stuff at KitchenCru

El Cubo de Cuba food carts are at Southwest 10th and Alder, and Southwest Fifth and Oak PHoToGrAPH By rAy WHiTeHoUse

Portland is filled with dreamers. Luckily for those who dream in food, there’s KitchenCru, a shared-use commercial kitchen you can rent for as little or as long as you need. The clean, spacious, gleaming kitchen is currently helping to “incubate” quite a few fledgling businesses, two of which recently caught our eye. first up is PDX biryani, a husbandand-wife team from Hyderabad, india, where biryani, a spiced rice dish, is elevated to an art form. Uma Dama and her husband, Dipu Kakumani, have day jobs and kids, but every sunday they head to KitchenCru to cook up big batches of the redolent rice, using fresh-ground spices, halal goat and chicken from new seasons. Customers pre-order earlier in the week and pick up from KitchenCru sundays at 11:30 a.m. The chicken version, made with a complex blend of spices, is lightly sweet, a little hot and seriously easy to scarf down. Knowing how much work goes into making good biryani, you can’t help but feel a little guilty about shoveling it in, but you also can’t help

yourself. To get in on the action, sign up for the mailing list at pdxbiryani.com.

And just in time for Turkey Day, there’s Pieku (a portmanteau of pie and haiku). owner sara suffriti uses lard from Tails and Trotters, another KitchenCru client, to make the deliciously flaky dough for her constantly rotating selection of pies and bite-sized “poppers.” Like many KitchenCru entrepreneurs, suffriti sells her wares at farmers markets, but the space is flexible enough to allow her to offer retail hours there, which she shares with Tails and Trotters every friday from 4-7 p.m. Her fruity summer lineup has eased into fall, with flavors such as Maple Apple, salted Caramel Apple, Chai Pumpkin and Honey Pecan. And for those who want to bake their own without having to fuss with a crust, she sells just the delectable dough, too. Check out her current list of flavors at pieku.posterous. com. — DAnieLLe CenToni KitchenCru, 337 N.W. Broadway, 503-226-1400; kitchencru.biz.

PHoToGrAPHy By MiKe DAVis (ToP) AnD AnAnyA PHoToGrAPHy (BoTToM)

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Dozens of eclectic shops, boutiques, fine art galleries, restaurants and wine tasting room.

Annastasia Salon Birdie’s Teas, Cards & Gifts Down to Earth Café Fat City Café Healthy Pets Northwest Indigo Traders Jacqueline’s Found & Fabulous Jealous Gardener Jones and Jones Jules of Morocco Clothing Knack Lovin Spoonful Pie’s Marco’s Café Multnomah Antiques Multnomah Arts Center O’Connor’s Restaurant Otto & Anita’s Schnitzel Haus Peggy Sunday’s SAID Interiors Sip D’Vine Sweets, Etc. Switch Shoes & Clothing The Village Hut Thinker Toys Topanien Global Gifts Village Beads Village Frame & Gallery

Capital Hwy. at 35th Street multnomahvillage.org

Switch Shoes & Clothing

Down to Earth Café

Jules of Morocco

Indigo Traders

The Village in the Heart of Portland

Lovin Spoonful Pie’s

The Village Hut

Photos by: Bob Kimball

radar Our picks for what to do where

All hAil the King!

Nov. 15-20 it’s been two years since Michael Jackson’s death. But the King of Pop’s music lives forever and gets the lavish treatment it deserves with Cirque Du Soleil’s “Michael Jackson: The Immortal World Tour.” the arena-size show features some of Jackson’s biggest hits, with theatrical treatments that aim to capture his energy and spirit. the show is created by director Jamie King, who worked with Jackson on his concert tours, and features props and scenic designs by Oregon’s own Michael Curry.

Nov. 15-16 at Eugene’s Matthew Knight Arena, Nov. 18-20 at the Rose Garden arena cirquedusoleil.com

CiRqUe DU SOleil

eAt heAlthy nOW!

through Nov. 30 Why wait for Jan. 1 to get serious about eating a healthy diet? november is Good Nutrition Month, National Diabetes Month and Vegan Awareness Month, offering a chance to raise your awareness of food that’s good for you.

Why not ditch the chips and limit snacks to healthful choices, such as seasonal apples and pears?

Wine tiMe

Nov. 5 The Northwest

Food & Wine Festival boasts more than 600 Oregon and Washington wines, plus pours from northwest distilleries and food from some of Portland’s best restaurants. the event moves this year to the Doubletree hotel at lloyd Center, making it easy to stay the night if you plan to taste through all the wines. nwwinefestival.com

they get nO ReSPeCt!

Nov. 12 What’s a little fish got to do to get some respect around here? today is National Pizza With the Works Except Anchovies Day. We’re guessing that the people who came up with this have never had really good anchovies.

A hOliDAy in yOUR glASS

Nov. 25-27 thanksgiving weekend is one of only two times a year when most small Oregon wineries have open houses for the public as part of the Wine Country Thanksgiving. More than 150 wineries participate, with most offering new releases for tasting, as well as food pairings and live music. it’s a great place to find unique bottles of pinot noir for Christmas gifts or to thank hosts who invite you to holiday parties. And if you’re looking for a place to stay the night, check out our high five list on Page 64. willamettewines.com

hURRAy fOR BeAUJOlAiS!

Nov. 18 One of the happiest days in the wine world each year is the annual release of the latest vintage of Beaujolais nouveau, the refreshing, young red wine that’s meant to be enjoyed right away, not cellared for years. for 10 years, that has been cause for celebration at the Heathman’s Beaujolais Nouveau Festival, which raises money for the french American Chamber of Commerce and the Alliance française de Portland. expect french delicacies, music and glass after glass of the delicious wine. afportland.org/ beaujolais-2011

PReSSing MAtteRS

thAnKS, AnD giving

Nov. 18-20 When people

Nov. 24 thanksgiving Day is

think of the Willamette valley, they think wine. But it’s now becoming known for its production of olive oil, and a good way to learn about that is at Red Ridge farms’ 2011 Olive Oil Harvest with Olio Nuovo Festa. the threeday traditional italian event celebrates the olive, the harvest and olio nuovo, the oil from the first pressing, which has a unique, spicy flavor. redridgefarms.com

the perfect time to take stock of all the good things happening in your life. it’s also a great day for giving back to the community. in Sherwood, there’s the Give N’ Gobble 5K and 10K runs, which raise money for the helping hands food bank. And at Washington Park, there’s the four-mile Turkey Trot, which raises money for the Oregon Zoo. Run or walk in either, and you can feel free to eat whatever you want at thanksgiving dinner. givengobble.com orrc.net

out of towN

ClAM SlAM

Nov. 12 Chowder is classic coldweather comfort food, and Oregon chefs do it up right at the Lincoln City Chowder Cook-Off, which pits the best chowder makers against one another in a taste showdown. Which one is best? there are tasting portions for the public to help decide. oregoncoast.org

MAKe A feAtheReD fRienD

Nov. 24 Who says turkeys have to be the centerpiece of the thanksgiving table? farm Sanctuary’s annual Adopt-A-Turkey Project aims to change minds by raising awareness of the plight of factory farmed birds — plus sharing ideas for delicious dishes worthy of your holiday table. adoptaturkey.org COMPileD By gRAnt BUtleR

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Hillsdale - SW Capitol Hwy

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Korkage Wine Shop

Baker & Spice

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Looking for a cozy place to enjoy coffee and a croissant with a friend? Baker & Spice is a small batch bakery that uses traditional methods and the highest quality ingredients to create our pastries, cakes, breads and savories. We love the upcoming Thanksgiving and Holiday treats. Tender pies, buttery pullapart rolls, rugelach and gorgeous Yule logs will all be here to help sweeten the seasons.

Order ahead for your holiday table. Menus online & in print as available

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Tue-Fri 6am-6pm; Sat 7am-6pm; Sun 7am-3pm 6330 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.7573 www.bakerandspicebakery.com

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At SweetWares, we love to bake and want to share that passion with others. We have stocked our shelves with a carefullyselected array of simple and useful tools of our trade. We have wares to lure a new baker into the kitchen or to bring a bit of excitement back to an expert baker looking for a muse. We offer classes where you can brush up on familiar techniques or learn the latest trick in cake decorating. Located 8 doors from our sister bakery, Baker & Spice.

6306 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.546.3737 www.sweetwares.com

Enjoy wine tasting, live music and small bite pairings in an intimate setting, featuring local boutique wineries and selected picks from around the world.

You can even shop for a custom gift set for the wine lovers in your life. The Korkage Chef, former instructor at a top hospitality school, offers expert wine consults - find just the right bottle for that special gift or holiday event!

6351 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.293.3146 www.korkagewine.com

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Three Square Grill

With an emphasis on regional American foods, traditional preparations, and close relationships with local farmers and producers, Three Square Grill has been Hillsdale’s neighborhood restaurant since 1995 as well as the home of Picklopolis – The Kingdom of the Brine, purveyor of fine pickles and preserves.

Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday, 5 - 9 p.m.

Breakfast: Sunday, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

6320 SW Capitol Hwy. 503.244.4467 www.threesquare.com www.picklopolis.com

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Hillsdale Eye Care

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Hillsdale Eye Care is dedicated to providing personalized eye care based on the patient’s individual needs. We enjoy working with patients requiring demanding visual needs such as sports vision, difficult to fit contact lens (bifocal or astigmatism) and children’s eye care.

Call for appointment, open 6 days a week.

1522 SW Sunset Blvd.

503.672.9190 www.hillsdaleeye.com

Paloma Clothing Paloma Clothing offers a unique, fun collection of women’s clothing and accessories including charming hats, scarves and locally made jewelry.

Excellent service and knowledgeable staff.

6316 SW. Capitol Hwy. 503.246.3417 www.palomaclothing.com 6

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Food Front Haircolor Salon Dirk

www.HillsdaleBusiness.org

A complete service boutique salon since 1989. Owner Jo-Anna Dirk, a master hair colorist (the first in the Northwest!), has been a premier educator for major hair product manufacturer’s throughout the world. All stylists follow an apprentice program under her close tutelage. Haircolor Salon Dirk offers their own private label, premium skin care line.

1517 SW Sunset Blvd., Portland, OR 503-244-4242 www.haircolorsalondirk.com; www.salondirk.com

Hillsdale Neighborhood

Food Front is Hillsdale’s freshest source for local and natural foods including organic produce; fine wines; artisan breads & cheeses; fresh, local meats; and fair trade coffee and chocolate.

Open 8am-9pm Daily 6344 SW Capitol Hwy. Hillsdale Shopping Center 503.546.6559 www.foodfront.coop

To advertise in Marketplace contact Darcy Paquette at 503.221.8299 or dpaquette@oregonian.com

pubcrawl [ Blurring the boundary between food and drink ]

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t’s not surprising that brewers and chefs might consider each other brothers in arms. their jobs are surprisingly similar: assembling the right ingredients in exact amounts to create recipes that require precise applications of heat, time and skillful technique to succeed.

Brewers sometimes have a cooking background, such as Upright’s alex ganum and hair of the Dog’s alan sprints, or they work closely with chefs like the evolving team at Burnside Brewing: chef ronnie Vance and brewer Jason Mcadam, who together are creating exciting combinations of food and beer that blur the boundaries. yes, you can get a great burger and a pint of IPa at Burnside, just as you can get Cincinnati-style beer chili on your Coney Island hot dog, but you can also sip a pint of Bacon Bourbon stout carbonated with carbon dioxide infused with the essence of house-made bacon. or order salmon poached in olive oil with a garnish of “beer caviar” — pearls of beer gelled in a special solution (Mcadam’s stout works best, Vance says). there’s an elk backstrap (loin) on the menu, with a demi-glace made with Burnside IPa and served with pickled red onion. he’s also working on extracting hop oils and steeping malt and wheat, then freeze-drying the resulting “beer” so it can be ground and put in a pipe — “smokable beer!” he says with a laugh.

Is it caviar? a sea creature? actually, it’s beer, albeit in gel form, a specialty of chef ronnie Vance at Burnside Brewing.

By John Foyston PhotograPhy By Motoya naKaMUra

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pubcrawl cont.

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Partner adam Cassie says it’s about alchemy — which was the pub’s original name before lawyers advised that some big companies might take issue. “alchemy means different things to different people,” Cassie says, “What it means to us is the transformation our base ingredients go through to become the finished product: the transformation of barley and hops into beer, or meat and salt into salami, or vegetables and salt into pickles. It’s the energy that goes into it, as well as the energy that’s created through the process.”

Burnside will be a year old next month, and Vance and Mcadam are helping it become a vital part of Portland’s pub culture. Vance — who also does a pale-ale mousse dusted with hop powder and frozen tableside with liquid nitrogen — may have a bit more time to experiment than Mcadam, who brews long and hard to keep up with growing demand in the metro area for his beers. he’ll have brewed 60,000 gallons by the time his first year is up, and new equipment and another brewer could more than

double that volume in 2012, so he cherishes being able to make limited edition beers such as the Bacon Bourbon stout.

“We won’t even need brewers dinners soon,” he says as he swirls a richly aromatic glass of the stout. “We’re working on a brewers dinner in a glass.”

Mcadam and Vance are perfecting their carbonationinfusion process. they carbonated the first batch of stout with carbon dioxide pumped into a small keg containing housecured bacon. the keg was pressurized at about 50 pounds per square inch and left in a cooler for a couple of weeks to take on the bacon flavor, then pumped into the finished beer. the process wasn’t a perfect success, and they’re working hard on the second gas-infused beer. this time it’s an altbier, the rich, amber, hoppy german style of cold-conditioned ale. to go with it, they smoked some tillamook cheddar on Vance’s hard-worked Bradley home smoker — he reckons he’ll have smoked 20,000 pounds of meats, malts, wheat and more by the end of the first year. the smoked cheese is cubed and

at Burnside Brewing, “pub grub” takes on a whole new meaning. While the menu has classics like burgers and chili dogs, it also has a heavy dose of haute cuisine. Elk loin served with an IPa infused demi-glace is, in fact, one of the more tame examples.

pressurized in a carbon dioxidefilled keg in the cooler. the smoked-cheese-gasinfused beer will be part of a new plate that Vance calls Cheesus Christ. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a series of experiments based on beer cheese,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;three beers and three cheeses will be paired together, and the smoked tillamook Cheddar alt is just phase one, a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;liquid cheese.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Cheese two will be beer battered and fried; cheese three will be a little hydrocolloid play â&#x20AC;&#x201D; turning a liquid into a solid and mimicking the texture of a soft cheese and tasting like the reversal of a beer cheese.â&#x20AC;?

Instead of a soft cheese with a beer-washed rind, Vance intends to serve soft beer with a cheese rind: heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll gently cook off some of the beerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alcohol, then create a creamy texture using a combination of gelatin, guar gum and plain yogurt. once it sets, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll freeze it and then apply a â&#x20AC;&#x153;rindâ&#x20AC;? of diluted, melted cheese and agar. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I had to start slow with the experiments and gain everybodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trust,â&#x20AC;? says Vance, who opened scarlet Begonias 12 years ago and also cooked at Bold-sky Cafe & studio. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to have a laser and a centrifuge sometime, but at least they let me have liquid nitrogen now.â&#x20AC;?

More good beer and food synergy

Burnside isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only place where brewers and chefs work closely together. here are some other Portland places where good food and house-brewed beer interact:

Hair of the Dog Brewery & Tasting Room: Brewer alan sprints has been making his renowned hair of the Dog ales for nearly 20 years now. In his year-old brewery and tasting room, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the chef, too, and loving it. the tasting room specializes in small glasses and plates so patrons can mix and match on their own, because sprints doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe in hard-andfast pairing rules.

61 S.E. Yamhill St., 503-232-6585; hairofthedog.com

Breakside Brewery: the pub has an inventive menu that goes well beyond standard pub grub, and brewer Ben Edmunds is one of Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most innovative young brewers. he recently started a yearlong project in which he invites a different Portland chef into the brewery each month to help him brew a special new beer to pour at the pub and the respective restaurants. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a project youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll read more about in an upcoming Pubcrawl.

820 N.E. Dekum St., 503-719-6475; breaksidebrews.com

Cascade Brewing Barrel House: the folks at Cascade have been introducing Portland to the glories of barrel-aged and blended

tart and sour beers, beers that pair incredibly well with all manner of food. In addition to a menu of charcuterie, cheese and sandwiches, the pub runs weekly specials that go well above and beyond the call, such as the recent pickled quail eggs and speck, which featured organic quail eggs, Italian speck, house-made compote and Portland ale house-made crackers.

939 S.E. Belmont St., 503-265-8603; cascadebrewingbarrelhouse.com

Grain & Gristle: anyplace with Upright Brewingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alex ganum and former ned Ludd chef Ben Meyer as partners is bound to be a standout for food and beer. ganum makes what are essentially Pacific northwest farmhouse-style beers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; usually drier, more effervescent, and often made with botanicals and herbs â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and they pair wonderfully with all sorts of food. you can always find a couple of Upright beers on tap at the pub, and the Upright tasting room in the Left Bank Building near the rose Quarter is a favored destination on weekend afternoons.

1473 N.E. Prescott St., 503-298-5007; grainandgristle.com ÂŁ

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gOOd CheeSe [ Anatomy of the perfect cheese plate ] The first year I worked in the cheese industry, my husband and I developed a habit of making a meal out of a selection of cheeses accompanied by some kind of salad or vegetable, bread or crackers, and often wine. Sometimes these assortments involved a specialty-store shopping spree for treasures like olives, charcuterie or mostardas. But other times the lineup was much more “kitchen surprise,” as we forced ourselves to stretch our imaginations and use what we had on hand.

I have to admit, those impromptu meals were the most memorable. They provided a fun challenge, and often resulted in surprising pairing discoveries. I learned that when it comes to matching a cheese with an accompaniment, anything goes.

There’s no right or wrong answer. Really, it’s just a matter of what tastes right to you.

Cheese plates are a great way to offer guests something to nibble on before

dinner — without having to slave away over homemade hors d’oeuvres. They’re as easy to set out as chips and dip, but miles more appealing. And since you can follow your tastebuds when putting them together, they don’t have to be intimidating. Still, when building a cheese plate for guests, there are a few suggestions (not rules!) you can follow to help you put together a selection with maximum appeal.

First, a wonderful cheese plate has either variety or a very narrow focus. Variety could be in the milk (cow/sheep/goat), the texture (caky/gooey/firm), or the place of origin (Italy/Spain/U.S.). For a narrow focus, think about serving the same cheese at multiple ages (for example, a 2-, 3- and 4-yearold cheddar). Or serve cheeses from one producer or one region or style, such as multiple blue cheeses.

When choosing an accompaniment, taste the cheese first. Think about what the flavor reminds you of, and what the texture is like, and let that guide your ideas. A hard, acidic cheese could use some tempering with a rich slice of salumi. A soft, buttery cheese might welcome a dollop of a bright and fruity preserve.

To give you a blueprint, we stopped

by Cheese Bar and New Seasons to put together a selection of five cheeses and accompaniments with a local theme — so you can show out-of-town guests what they’re missing. If this is too many, just pick three categories. But either way, you should arrange them in the following order:

BY SAShA dAVIeS PhOTOgRAPh BY MIKe dAVIS

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the Meal-in-a-Bite:

the Aperitif: This cheese should make the palate want more, so look to younger cheeses with bright flavors, good acid and a light, almost caky, texture.

Examples: Crottin (French), La Tur (Italian) and humboldt Fog (U.S.) Pairing: That acidity wants something sweet for balance.

Try dried cherries or honey.

On our plate: Sunset Bay (goat; Rivers edge Chevre, Logsden) and cherries from Country girl Fruit.

the Crowd Pleaser:

Soft, luscious, gooey cheeses, such as triple-creams, disappear from the buffet first because they are creamy and buttery in flavor.

Examples: St. Andre (French), La Sauvagine (Canada), green hill (U.S.).

Pairing: Offer contrast to the gooey, spreadable texture with crisp, fruit- and/or nutstudded crackers.

On our plate: Adelle (sheep and cow; Ancient heritage dairy, Madras) and Fig and Olive Raincoast Crisps.

the stinker: (not pictured) The goal with these cheeses is to confront but not assault the palate with pungent aromas and flavors. The texture of a stinker can range from near liquid to firm, but the stinky flavors should never obscure completely the flavors of milk and cheese.

Examples: epoisses (French) Taleggio (Italian), grayson (U.S.).

Pairing: Soften the blow with a touch of something sweet and savory, like pickled figs from Boat Street Pickles, or a sweet onion compote.

On our plate: Local stinky cheese was in short supply when we took this photo, so we opted for a length of Provence salumi from Chop Charcuterie. But Opal Creek (cow; Ancient heritage dairy, Madras) would be a good choice.

Firmer in texture and packing an entire bouquet of flavors, these cheeses are some of the most satiating of the bunch. In another time you might have been perfectly content to eat a wedge of these cheeses for breakfast.

Examples: Pecorino Toscano (Italian), gruyère (Swiss), Clothbound Cheddar (english).

Pairing: Though they almost need no support, something toothsome like a Paley Bar or fig cake kicks these up a notch.

On our plate: Tomme des Vignes (goat; goldin Artisan goat Cheese, Molalla) and a Paley Bar.

the Palate shifter:

This cheese should help us leave the land of cream and prepare us for bolder savory flavors to come.

Look for cheeses with enticing notes of mushrooms, earth, potatoes and grass.

Examples: Tomme de Savoie (French), garrotxa (Spanish), Pondhopper (Tumalo Farms, Bend).

Pairing: Subtle cheeses crave subtle accompaniments. go with low-acid fruit preserves such as plum or black cherry.

On our plate: Cascadia (raw goat; Fairview Farm, dallas, Ore.) and homemade Italian plum preserves.

the Closer: Blue cheeses are traditionally at the end of the tasting because they leave a particularly strong imprint on the palate that makes it difficult to taste other things. The range of textures and flavors within blues is enormous, giving you many to choose from.

Examples: Stichelton (english), Rogue River Blue (U.S.) and gorgonzola Cremificato (Italian).

Pairing: elevate flavors of milk and mold with walnuts, candied or preserved. They offer a hint of sweet balanced by tannins.

On our plate: Smokey Blue (raw cow; Rogue Creamery, Central Point) and candied walnuts from Albina City Nuts.

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When to serve:

The beginning, middle and end of the meal are your three options. If you’re serving an assortment of cheese as an appetizer or dessert, plan on half an ounce per person per cheese. Increase the portion to 1 to 11⁄2 ounces if you’re going for drama with a single cheese and condiment. Main course cheese plates should offer 5 to 6 ounces of cheese per person (that’s more than a quarter pounder!), assuming that the cheese is accompanied by side dishes such as salads or vegetables and bread or crackers.

hoW to serve:

If you’re opening or closing a meal with cheese, it is nice to set them all out together on a large board or tray. I’m partial to slate boards as I think the rough black surface makes a stunning backdrop for any cheese. Rustic wood cutting boards also make a lovely surface for cheese display. You want the plate to have progression. So start with softer cheeses and progress to firmer. And begin with mild flavors and finish with something assertive. £

game day Turkey isn’t the only bird worthy of your holiday table. Follow the lead of local chefs and try your hand at more unusual poultry options

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AMErIcAnS roASt turKEyS on thAnKSgIVIng. It’s what we do. But it’s also what we don’t do the other 364 days of the year. Doesn’t it make you wonder? If we love the bird so much that we organize a national holiday around it, why don’t we cook it more often?

Let’s be honest: We don’t actually love it that much. now, that’s not to say turkey doesn’t have its merits. But a whole roasted turkey is a big, unwieldy commitment. not the most practical option if you’re serving a small group. And since it wouldn’t be thanksgiving without poultry, the only alternatives to the big bird — turkey breast or a chicken — hardly seem holiday-worthy.

But wait. A peek at Portland menus tells us that there’s a lot more feathered fauna to choose from. Smaller birds, like pheasant, squab and quail, or slightly larger duck and guinea fowl make regular appearances at local restaurants. “they’re just more interesting,” says chef tony Meyers of Serratto restaurant. “to me, a turkey has no flavor.”

Even better, game birds (which home cooks can order at many meat counters) are downright practical. “they’re fast to work with. they’re easy,” says Meyers, who will be teaching a class on cooking with game at In good taste on nov. 15. “you can pair a lot more flavors with them and take advantage of seasonality, especially in fall and winter. nuts and mushrooms, herbs, apples and citrus. they always remind me of game birds.”

Small, flavorful, unexpected. clearly game birds are a great alternative to a turkey when you’re planning a special dinner with just a few guests. So we asked five local chefs to share their favorite celebratory recipes with us. From bourbon-glazed duck to pheasant cooked under a brick, we’ve gathered five gorgeous dishes waiting to give your holiday table a boost.

"It’s not your average dish that your guests will see at their next party,” says Meyers of his stuffed quail. “I’m pretty sure they’re going like it.” — Danielle Centoni

Photography by MIKE DAVIS

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{ moulard duck } With bourbon glaze, smoked mashed potatoes and pickled persimmon

Bourbon-glazed Duck Breast with Smoked Mashed Potatoes Makes 4 servings

We know what you’re thinking: smoked potatoes? Who has the time? But trust us, it’s not hard and it’s more than worth the extra effort. All you need is a large pot with a steamer or pasta insert, so you can put the soaked chips on the bottom and keep the potatoes suspended above. the result is a surprisingly smoke-free house and potatoes that taste bacon-y, only better. Paired with sweet, bourbonand brown sugar-glazed duck breasts and a tart-sweet sauce, chef Sara Schafer’s dish is a knockout combination. try serving this dish with braised bitter greens for contrast.

Maple-persimmon reduction: ¼ cup maple syrup 1 tablespoon salt ¾ cup champagne vinegar 1 cup ripe diced Fuyu persimmons (see note) Sauce: 1 tablespoon butter 2 shallots, sliced Salt ¼ cup sherry vinegar ¼ cup dry sherry wine 2 cups duck or chicken stock 2 sprigs fresh thyme Smoked mashed potatoes: 2½ pounds yukon gold potatoes Salt 26

1 cup smoking chips (apple and hickory) ½ cup heavy cream, warmed ¼ cup (4 tablespoons) butter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper Duck: 1 cup packed brown sugar ¼ cup bourbon 4 Muscovy duck breasts (about 8 ounces each)

To make the maple-persimmon reduction: In a small saucepan, combine maple syrup, salt and vinegar. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Place diced persimmons in a heat-safe bowl and pour vinegar mixture over. Allow to sit at room temperature for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Pour vinegar mixture back into the small saucepan, leaving the pickled persimmons behind (save for later). Bring liquid to a boil over high heat and reduce until syrupy. can be made 2 days ahead.

To make the sauce: Set a medium sauté pan over medium heat.

Add the butter and shallots. Season with salt to taste. Sauté until shallots are golden and caramelized, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add vinegar and wine. raise heat to medium-high and cook until almost no liquid remains. Add stock and thyme sprigs. Simmer until liquid is reduced to a saucy consistency. remove from heat and stir in the persimmon reduction and pickled persimmons.

Quail Stuffed With Apples and chanterelles Makes 4 servings

though tiny, these birds are packed with flavor — but not so much that they venture into gamy territory. true, there’s not a whole lot of meat on these bones, but chef tony Meyers’ rich stuffing of apples, sausage and chanterelle mushrooms makes up for it. A piquant bed of lightly dressed arugula offsets all those rich flavors.

1 tablespoon butter 3 ounces Italian sausage 1 large honeycrisp apple, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice ½ small yellow onion, cut into ¼-inch dice 1½ cups chanterelle mushrooms, roughly chopped ½ cup walnuts, roughly chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme Zest of half a lemon

To make the smoked mashed potatoes: you will need a large pot that has a steamer or pasta insert. Peel potatoes and cut into even-sized (about 1½-inch) pieces. Place in the pot (without the insert), cover with 1 inch of water and add about 1 teaspoon salt.

Bring to a boil over high heat. reduce heat to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, soak the smoking chips in water for at least 30 minutes.

2 to 3 tablespoons apple brandy

When the potatoes are done, drain and place in the steamer or pasta insert. Place a double layer of aluminum foil (or an aluminum pie pan) in the bottom of the pot and fill with the soaked wood chips. Set the insert with the potatoes into the pot, over the chips. cover the pot and set over high heat. the chips should start to smolder after a few minutes, then start to smoke. reduce heat to low and allow potatoes to smoke for 15 minutes. turn off the heat and allow the smoke to settle down before removing the lid. remove potatoes from smoker and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add warm cream, butter, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Mash by hand or with an electric mixer until smooth and fluffy.

1 (5-ounce) package baby arugula

To prepare the duck: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a small saucepan, combine brown sugar and bourbon. Set over medium heat and cook until sugar melts. remove from heat.

Score the skin of the breasts diagonally in ¼-inch intervals (do not cut into the meat). rotate breast and score again, making a crisscross pattern. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

Set a large, oven-safe sauté pan over medium heat. Set the breasts in the hot pan, skin-side down. Allow to sear, without moving, until skin is golden brown. (the slower you sear the breasts the better, because it makes the skin crispier.) Brush breasts with the bourbon glaze, turn over and brush the other side as well. transfer sauté pan to oven and roast breasts until internal temperature reaches 120 degrees, about 10 minutes. remove from heat and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing into ½-inch-thick slices.

To serve: Divide the mashed potatoes between four plates, top with sliced duck. Spoon warm sauce over the duck and around the plate. top with fresh thyme or parsley, if desired, and serve.

Note: Fuyu persimmons are the short, squat variety of persimmons that are still firm when ripe. If you can’t find them, you can substitute Asian pears.

— Adapted from Sarah Schafer, Irving Street Kitchen, Portland

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 semi-boneless quail (see note) 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) 1 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add sausage and brown for 1 minute. Add apple, onion and mushrooms; sauté until tender. Add walnuts, thyme and lemon zest. cook for another minute or two, then deglaze the pan with brandy. Season with salt and pepper to taste. remove from heat and let cool.

In a food processor, pulse the mixture for a few seconds until it just starts to come together (do not purée until smooth!). Stuff each quail with the mixture (about 3 to 4 ounces each).

Set a large sauté pan or Dutch oven over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When hot, add the birds, breast-side down. Sear for 1 minute, transfer to the oven and cook for 8 to 10 minutes. remove from heat, turn birds over and let rest in the pan for 2 more minutes to finish cooking.

While the quail rests, whisk the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and vinegar together in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the arugula and toss to coat.

To serve: Slice each quail with a knife directly down the center. Place each on a bed of lightly dressed arugula and serve.

Note: It’s common to order quail “semi-boneless,” which makes it easier to eat and stuff. It will have the breast, backbone and thigh bones removed, but not the bones in the wings or lower legs.

— Adapted from Tony Meyers, Serratto, Portland

27

{ quail } Stuffed with apples and chanterelles

Braised Squab With chestnut and raisin Stuffing Squabs are to pigeons what escargot are to garden snails: the same but different. Still, squab is mostly dark meat, with a stronger flavor than more delicate birds like game hen. chef Marco Frattaroli’s flavorful stuffing stands up well to the bird’s robust flavor. For a mild backdrop, serve it on a bed of creamy polenta.

4 squabs (see note)

chopped giblets from 4 squabs (if using whole squabs; optional) 1 egg, lightly beaten Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup (8 tablespoons) butter (divided) 2 cups squab stock (recipe follows) or chicken stock, plus more as needed

¼ cup golden raisins ¼ pound pancetta, cut into ¼-inch strips ½ medium onion, diced ¼ pound (crustless) day-old artisan bread ½ cup milk, or more as needed ¼ pound peeled chestnuts, coarsely chopped (see note) ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh herbs (sage, rosemary, thyme and mint)

If the squabs are whole, prepare them according to the instructions in the accompanying story, “cooking with game birds.

Place the raisins in a small bowl and cover with warm water or wine (any kind you have around). Allow to soak in the liquid until plump.

Set a medium sauté pan over medium heat. cook the pancetta until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper-towel

lined plate, leaving the drippings behind. Add the onion to the sauté pan and cook until soft, 4 to 5 minutes.

Set aside. rip the bread into small pieces and place in a bowl. Add the milk and toss until well soaked. If it’s still dry, add a little more milk. Squeeze lightly to eliminate excess milk and drain it off. Add the cooked pancetta, onions with drippings, chestnuts, herbs, plumped raisins (without the soaking liquid), and chopped giblets, if using. gently mix in the beaten egg and add salt and pepper to taste.

Pack the stuffing into the birds. (you might have some left over; bake it, covered, in a small gratin dish.)

Set a large cast iron Dutch oven or a heavy-bottomed pot with a lid over medium-high heat. Add the oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter. When hot, add the squab and brown on all sides.

Add enough stock to cover the bot-

{ squab } Braised and stuffed with chestnuts and raisins

28

tom of pot by ½ inch. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer, cover and cook for about 25 minutes, basting the birds frequently with the stock, and checking to make sure they’re not sticking to the bottom. Add more stock or water as needed to maintain the ½ inch level of liquid in the pan. After about 25 minutes, uncover and finish cooking until the birds are tender. transfer birds to a warm plate and tent with foil to keep warm. over high heat, reduce the liquid in the pot until syrupy, then whisk in the remaining butter. (you can add a few fresh herbs to the liquid during the final reduction; strain before serving.)

Serve birds drizzled with the sauce, preferably on a bed of polenta.

Notes: If you order the squabs whole, they’ll still have their heads, feet and innards, which you can use to make the squab stock. If this makes you squeamish, ask the butcher you ordered them from to clean the birds for you and pack up the parts separately. or simply order the squabs cleaned and use chicken or turkey stock instead of squab stock. you can find vacuum-packed, peeled chestnuts at well-stocked stores such as new Seasons. If you want to use fresh chestnuts, score each shell with a small “x” using a paring knife. Drop into boiling water and cook until tender, 25 to 35 minutes. Drain, let cool, and peel off the shell and brown inner skin.

— Adapted from Marco Frattaroli, Bastas Trattoria, Portland

Squab Stock Makes about 2 cups

heads, necks, feet and gizzards of 4 squabs 1 small onion, chopped 1 medium carrot, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 1 bay leaf In a large pot, combine squab parts, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf and 2 quarts of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and cook until liquid is reduced to about 2 cups. If you have time, add another quart of water and reduce again until about 2 cups remain. Strain, allow stock to cool at room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use.

(Stock can be made a day or two ahead.)

— From Marco Frattaroli, Bastas Trattoria, Portland

{ guinea fowl }

cider-Braised guinea Fowl and Stuffed turnips

Braised in cider with savory stuffed turnips

Makes 2 servings

It’s common to find guinea fowl on menus in France, but here, not so much. And that’s a shame. the meat is similar to a small chicken, but a little more interesting, with a firmer texture and more pronounced flavor. chef Philippe Boulot prefers larger, more mature birds for their flavor, but since the breasts tend to become dry, he recommends separating them from the body and braising them — in this case with sparkling cider and veal stock — to ensure moistness.

1 (3-pound) guinea hen 6 small turnips (about the size of a golf ball) Salt 4 ounces pork fat 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon 1 teaspoon pine nuts, toasted Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided)

29

1 cup French sparkling cider 1 cup veal stock (see note) 4 ounces green beans 4 ounces yellow wax beans 2 tablespoons heavy cream Bone the guinea fowl, so you can keep the two breasts for sautéing and the leg meat for the stuffed turnips.

First remove the legs: pull the leg away from the body and cut through the skin and meat until you hit the joint. cut through the cartilage of the joint to separate it. repeat this technique on the other leg and the wings. using poultry scissors, cut through the ribs down both sides of the backbone to separate it from the breast (freeze the backbone and wings for the next time you make stock). cut down the middle of the breast to separate it into two halves, then cut the meat away from the ribs and the keel bone. to bone the leg meat, scrape the meat away from the thighbone and then away from the leg bone. grab the tendons with a

paper towel and use a knife to scrape the tendons away from the meat. remove the skin from the leg and thigh, but leave it on the breasts.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

Peel the turnips and scoop out the inside, leaving a ¼-inch rim. Blanch the turnips in the boiling water for 5 minutes. remove with a slotted spoon and cool under cold running water.

In a food processor, pulse the leg meat, pork fat and shallots. Mix in the chopped sage and tarragon and toasted pine nuts, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Form the stuffing into balls small enough to fit inside the turnips, about ¾-inch diameter.

Set a large sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the

oil. When hot, sear the balls of stuffing until browned on all sides. Allow to cool, then stuff inside the turnips. return the sauté pan to mediumhigh heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the breasts, skin-side down, and sear until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. turn breasts over and deglaze the pan with the cider. Simmer until cider is reduced to ¼ cup.

Add the veal stock and baby turnips. transfer to the oven and braise until guinea fowl is tender and cooked through, about 20 minutes.

While breasts are braising, set a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add remaining tablespoon of oil. When hot, add the green beans and yellow wax beans. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sauté

until tender, about 5 minutes.

When breasts are cooked, transfer them and the turnips to a warmed plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Set the pan on the stove over medium-high heat and whisk in the cream. Simmer for about 1 minute until thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide the sautéed beans among two plates, place breasts on top and the turnips on the side. Spoon sauce over all and serve.

Note: you can find frozen veal stock or shelf-stable demi-glace at specialty grocery stores such as Zupan’s Markets and Pastaworks.

— From Philippe Boulot, culinary director of The Heathman Restaurant

{ pheasant } cooked under a brick wtih figs, chanterelles and gnocchi

30

Pheasant under a Brick With Figs, chanterelles and gnocchi Makes 4 servings

you know how sandwiches get superbly crispy and evenly golden when cooked in a panini press? Same goes for pheasant breasts when cooked in a hot skillet under a brick. the skin gets deliciously crispy, while the meat cooks quickly without drying out. to go with it, chef chris carriker tosses gnocchi in a saucy mix of garbanzo beans, dried figs, cherry tomatoes, bacon and chanterelles.

4 (8-ounce) pheasant breasts Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces bacon, diced 8 ounces fresh or frozen gnocchi 1 cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed 20 cherry tomatoes 8 dried black mission figs, halved 1 cup roughly chopped chanterelles (about 2 ounces) 1½ cups chicken stock 2 sprigs fresh thyme ¼ cup unsalted butter Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wrap a brick in foil. Season pheasant breasts with salt and pepper.

Set a large cast iron Dutch oven or skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add the bacon and cook until crispy. use a slotted spoon to transfer bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the drippings behind.

Set the pheasant breasts, skin-side down, in the drippings.

Immediately set the foil-wrapped brick on top. Place pot or skillet in the oven and roast breasts for about 10 minutes, until they reach an internal temperature of 155 degrees. turn breasts over and remove from heat.

While breasts cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil, season with salt, and add the gnocchi. cook according to the package directions. transfer breasts to a warm plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Set the cast-iron pot or skillet over medium heat and add chickpeas. Sauté for a minute, then add tomatoes, figs and mushrooms. Deglaze pot with stock and add thyme. Bring to a simmer, add the cooked gnocchi, butter and bacon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide the gnocchi mixture among 4 dishes, place a pheasant breast on top and serve.

— Adapted from Chris Carriker, Gilt Club restaurant, Portland

Cooking with game birds cooking game birds is just as easy as cooking chicken or turkey, with one exception: they can dry out a little faster. “you don’t have to cook them to 165 degrees,” says chef tony Meyers of Serratto. “you can pull them out earlier.”

Meyers also recommends giving the birds a quick dunk in brine or marinade to keep them juicy.

“Because they’re small birds, they can pick up a lot of the flavors of what you’re cooking them with.

So I brine them a lot. I use a saltsugar brine and I’ll change up the herbs and seasonings depending on the time of year. In fall and winter I’ll use things like cinnamon sticks, cloves, orange peel and cider.”

When it comes to guinea fowl, which are typically the size of a small chicken, chef Philippe Boulot recommends cooking the breast and legs separately. “the breast meat is a bit denser,” he says. “I cook it until it’s just medium-rare or else it gets tough. the legs I always braise until the meat falls off the bone.” generally you can order all game birds already cleaned, with the heads, feet and innards removed. But, if you’re feeling thrifty, adventurous or want to make a statement, you can get them whole and do the cleaning yourself.

“It gives an interesting ‘real food’ look when you serve them with the feet still on,” says Meyers.

“It’s more like real, natural food, like how it’s supposed to be. the head can be a little intimidating, though. that’s understandable.

But don’t be intimidated by the feet.” to clean a whole bird, use poultry scissors to remove the head at the base of the neck, and the feet where they join the legs. Make a small incision to open up the vent hole under the tail and carefully use your fingers to pull out the innards. rinse the cavity with cold water. you can save the gizzards for stock, and chop the giblets (heart and liver) to use in a pan sauce.

Where to buy you’ve likely seen duck at grocery stores around town. But pheasant, guinea fowl, quail and squab? these aren’t run-ofthe-mill poultry choices — and that’s exactly what makes them an impressive option for special dinners. Still, even though they seem hard to find, they’re not. you simply have to ask for them.

Many grocery stores with full-service meat counters have strong connections with local game meat distributor nicky uSA, which means they can get you anything the company sells, with no minimum purchase.

Step up to the counter, order what you need, and you’ll have your game birds in a couple of days. you can also order directly from nicky uSA, but you’ll need to have a minimum order of $125. Stores you can order from include Zupan’s Markets, Sheridan Fruit and uwajimaya, as well as local boutique butcher shops such as chop and Laurelhurst Market.

31

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November 4th, Monks Gate Vineyard, pouring a three vintage vertical flight of exceptional estate Pinot Noir at CuvĂŠe Restaurant offered for $15.00 along with the full CuvĂŠe menu. Specially priced bottles also available.

November 11th, Tyrus Evan, open until 7pm, featuring Fino in Fondo, cured salami from Eric Ferguson and Carmen Peirano of Nickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian CafĂŠ

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Stroll tasting rooms, galleries, and shops in historic downtown.

Visit our restaurants and stay at our B&Bs. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re open late every Friday from 5-7pm now until December 16th with special offerings, discounts and events! Stay for live music at the Horse Radish every Friday and Saturday night!

KaleGruyère Gratin p35

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TradiTion ~wiTh a TwisT All year long we seek out adventures in food, whether we’re grilling octopus at home or dining on spherified sauces while we’re out. But during the holidays we can’t help craving tradition. The Thanksgiving table gets filled with the same dishes year after year, and pretty soon they come to define the holiday itself.

Those candied yams? That bowl of cranberry sauce? They’re as good as sacred.

But, you’ve got to admit, they’re also predictable. And where’s the fun in that?

So we’re offering you a compromise: All the familiar faces, with ever-so-gentle twists. There’s nothing too crazy, or time-consuming, so both the traditionalists and the thrill-seekers at the table will be happy, and you won’t have to slave away to make it so. Even better, the components of each recipe can be made ahead. After all, it is a holiday. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE DAVIS

Chanterelle and Green Bean Casserole Makes 6 servings

stephanie Kimmel, chef/owner of Marché restaurant in Eugene, turned Thanksgiving’s well-worn green bean casserole into a refined dish. The colorful fresh green beans and chanterelles baked in a homemade white sauce are a serious improvement over the 1950s threecan combo. For toppers, the golden shallot and bread crumb crust out-crunches canned frenchfried onions any day. To make things easy on the big day, prepare the beans and sauce ahead.

Beans and mushrooms: 1½ pounds fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into 3-inch pieces 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 8 ounces chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and, if small, quartered or, if larger, sliced ¼-inch thick 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Sauce: 4 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup all-purpose flour 34

2 cups whole milk 1 teaspoon salt Topping: 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil scant ½ cup sliced shallots ½ cup fresh white bread crumbs salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

To cook beans and mushrooms: Boil green beans in salted water until just tender, about 8 minutes. drain in a colander and set aside. in a large sauté pan, melt the butter. add the garlic and onion and sauté over medium-low heat until softened. add the chanterelles and thyme and stir to combine. Cook until mushrooms have released their juices and the juices are reduced. season liberally with salt and pepper.

To make sauce: in a heavy saucepan, melt the butter and whisk in flour. Cook for a minute or two to remove the rawness of the flour. whisk in milk, about ½ cup at a time, until the sauce is smooth. add salt and cook, stirring often, until sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon.

To make topping: Melt butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. add the sliced shallots and cook until soft and beginning to turn golden, 3 to 4 minutes. add the bread crumbs and stir to coat. season with salt and pepper.

To assemble: in a large bowl, combine green beans and mushroom mixture. Pour the sauce over all and stir until well-combined. Transfer mixture to a large buttered gratin or casserole dish. smooth the top and sprinkle evenly with the bread crumb mixture. Bake for about 25 minutes or until the cream sauce is bubbly and the bread crumbs are golden.

— From Stephanie Kimmel, Marché restaurant, Eugene

Kale-Gruyère Gratin Makes 6 to 8 servings

one of the great things about kale is it doesn’t cook down as much as spinach and chard, so you don’t need to tediously wash a gazillion bunches just to make a few servings. although any kale variety will do, lacinato kale has a crowd-pleasing flavor that’s milder than mustard greens but more interesting than spinach. it also cooks up tender but not mushy, making it perfect for this creamy side dish.

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter (divided)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

1 cup coarse bread crumbs or panko

in a large sauté pan set over mediumhigh heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. add the bread crumbs and toss to coat. sauté crumbs until crispy and lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool for a few minutes before stirring in the chopped parsley and 1⁄3 cup of the grated cheese.

salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 11⁄3 cups grated gruyère cheese 2 (15-ounce) cans low-sodium chicken broth 1 cup half-and-half 2 pounds (3 bunches) lacinato kale, washed, ribs removed, leaves roughly chopped 2 large cloves garlic, minced

4 tablespoons flour

wipe out the sauté pan and set over high heat. add the broth and simmer until reduced to 2 cups. Transfer to a 4-cup measuring cup and add the half-andhalf. set aside. set the sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the chopped kale by large handfuls, stirring until the leaves are wilted and adding more as room becomes available. season with salt and pepper.

Cook the kale in batches until tender and wilted and the moisture it has released has cooked off. Transfer to a bowl. set the sauté pan over medium heat and add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. when melted, add the garlic and sauté until tender but not browned, about 2 minutes. stir in the flour. Cook the roux, stirring, for 1 minute, then slowly whisk in the broth and cream mixture a little at a time, letting the roux absorb the liquid before adding more. allow sauce to simmer for about 1 minute. remove from heat and stir in the remaining 1 cup of cheese. add the wilted kale to the sauce and toss to coat. Transfer mixture to a 12-inch gratin dish or shallow baking dish. distribute the bread crumb mixture evenly over the top. Bake the gratin until bubbling and the topping is golden, about 30 minutes.

Notes: To quickly remove the stems from the kale leaves, nothing works better than your fingers. Just hold the leaf upside down with one hand, then pull down the stem with the fingers on other hand to strip the leaves off.

You can prepare the kale and sauce up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate combined or separate. The sauce will become firm, so reheat gently over medium heat on the stove before assembling the gratin and baking. You can also assemble the entire gratin a day ahead and refrigerate. allow to come to room temperature before baking.

— Danielle Centoni

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Gingery Cider-Glazed Sweet Potatoes Makes 6 to 8 servings

Classic candied “yams” (in this country, anything called a yam is actually a sweet potato) are a guilty pleasure for sure. drenched in butter and brown sugar, then often topped with toasted marshmallows, the dish could easily pass for a dessert. This recipe reins in the sweetness a bit without venturing too far over to the savory side. The glaze is made from spiced apple cider, reduced until concentrated, then spiked with fresh ginger and orange zest to add a welcome hit of brightness that complements the other dishes on the plate.

3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 2 cups spiced apple cider 1 teaspoon orange zest 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger ¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter 1 ⁄3 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 large sprig fresh rosemary ½ teaspoon kosher salt

36

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. arrange potatoes in 9-by-13-inch baking dish. in a wide saucepan or skillet set over high heat, simmer the apple cider until reduced to 1 cup, about 10 minutes. reduce heat to medium, add the orange zest, grated ginger, butter and brown sugar. hit the rosemary sprig with the back of a knife to bruise it and release the oils, then add it to the pot. simmer the mixture until it has thickened into a light syrup. season with salt to taste. remove rosemary sprig.

Pour mixture over the potatoes and toss to coat. Cover dish tightly with foil. Bake for 40 minutes, uncover and bake about 10 minutes more, basting occasionally, until potatoes are tender. if you want a thicker glaze, drain it from the potatoes and simmer in a skillet until thickened.

Pour over potatoes.

— Danielle Centoni

Cranberry-Apple Chutney Makes about 4 cups

so many cranberry sauces offer just one note of flavor. But this tangy chutney from Grand Central Bakery, studded with savory onions and sweet chunks of apples, provides some much-needed complexity to offset the richness of the meal. it’s delicious with chicken or pork, too.

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 medium red onions, diced to make about 12⁄3 cups 2 teaspoons finely minced garlic 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 2 cups fresh cranberries 3 to 4 medium heirloom or favorite seasonal apples, peeled, cored and diced to make about 5 cups 1¾ cups firmly packed brown sugar 11⁄3 cups apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons mustard seeds 1½ teaspoons ground allspice ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste ½ cup golden raisins ½ cup currants

heat the olive oil in a large, nonreactive pan over medium heat. sauté the onions until soft and translucent. add the garlic and ginger, and sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. add the cranberries, apples, sugar, vinegar, spices, raisins and currants; increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 45 minutes or until the cranberries and apples have cooked down and the sauce has thickened. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. To store, place cooled chutney in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 10 days. (Let sit in refrigerator at least six hours or overnight to let flavors blend.) The chutney can be frozen.

— Adapted from Grand Central Bakery

Apple and Prune Cornmeal Crostata Makes 8 to 10 servings

Crostatas are just like pie, but easier to make since you don’t have to worry about the crust slumping. with a buttery, flaky crust flecked with crunchy bits of cornmeal, and a spiral of prune- and honey-enriched apples, this is a stunner of a dessert that’s both familiar and unexpected. “i wanted to develop a recipe that’s not the quintessential cinnamon-apple dessert,” says pastry chef Kir Jensen. “i wanted something more complex and rich in flavor, and that’s where the lovely prunes come into play.” The prune compote yields about 2 cups, but you’ll only need 1 cup for the recipe. Use the leftovers to complement a cheese board or serve as an accompaniment to pork tenderloin.

Dough: 1¾ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup medium or finely ground cornmeal ½ teaspoon granulated sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1¾ sticks (14 tablespoons) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes (Jensen uses a higher-fat brand such as Plugra or Cremerie Classique) ⁄3 cup ice water

1

To make the dough: in the bowl of a food processor, add the flour, cornmeal, sugar and salt. Pulse several times to combine. add the butter pieces and pulse until they’re the size of peas. slowly pour in the ice water while pulsing. Continue to pulse the mixture until it comes together and starts to form a ball around the blade.

To assemble: on a lightly floured surface roll out the chilled crostata dough until it’s ¼ inch thick and 17 inches in diameter. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment or a silpat. The dough will drape over the sides of the sheet pan, but it will fit once the edges are folded over.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gather into a ball. Flatten into a patty, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. (dough can be made up to 2 days ahead.)

Place 1 cup of cooled prune compote into the center of the dough. Using an offset spatula, spread the compote evenly to within ¼-inch of the edges of the dough. Use a slotted spoon to drain off the excess juice from the apples as you arrange the slices in concentric circles, starting in the center and working your way out (reserve the juices). dot the fruit with 1 tablespoon of butter.

Fold the edges over the filling to make a circle 10 to 12 inches in diameter. Chill crostata in the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes to allow the dough to firm up.

To make the compote: split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds with the back of a knife. Place in a medium saucepan, along with the pod. add the prunes, salt, honey, cider or water and wine. Cook over mediumhigh heat until the juices start to boil and the prunes begin to break down. reduce heat to a simmer and slowly cook, stirring and smashing the prunes occasionally, until prunes are mushy enough to spread onto the dough. You may have to add more cider or wine if the prunes get too dry before they’re spreadable. Taste and adjust the sweetness level with more honey if necessary. remove the vanilla bean pod and transfer compote to a bowl. allow to cool before using. (Compote can be made several days ahead.)

To prepare the apples: Peel apples, quarter and remove the core. slice ¼ inch thick (you should have about 5 cups). in a large bowl, combine apples, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, honey, ginger and ½ cup of the sugar. set aside and let apples macerate for about 20 minutes, until they begin to release juices.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush the dough with heavy cream and sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar over the entire crostata. Bake for 30 minutes, then rotate the pan from front to back and brush the top of the apples with some of the reserved juices. Bake for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the juices are bubbling, the dough is a deep golden brown and the bottom is set (to make sure, gently lift the edge using an offset spatula; it should be golden underneath). allow crostata to cool for 15 to 20 minutes before serving with a dollop of sweetened whipped cream or crème fraîche (try using maple syrup instead of sugar.)

— From Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube, Portland

Prune compote: 1 vanilla bean 1 pound pitted prunes heavy pinch sea salt 1 tablespoon single-varietal honey ½ to ¾ cup apple cider or water 1½ to 1¾ cups marsala wine Apples: 4 to 5 large honeycrisp or Granny smith apples Zest of ½ lemon Juice of ½ lemon ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons single-varietal honey 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (divided) 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 tablespoons heavy cream

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put a bow on it

our picks for the best booze, books and more

The quickest way to kill your holiday spirit? Chasing sales at the mall. You circle endlessly for parking, stand in long lines like a sheep and leave with sore arms, sore feet and bags of stuff youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not even sure anyone wants.

But you know what? There is a better way. You live in Portland, after all, a city brimming with delicious goods and well-curated independent shops. With that in mind, we put together a small, quirky list of cool, local finds sure to please the food lovers in your life. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a little something for everyone, in all price ranges, so take a peek and get inspired.

ComPiled BY danielle CenToni

39

cocktail carBonator

coffee roasting classes at Mr. green Beans

By some accounts, bubbles are a sure way to ramp up a drink’s happiness-inducing factor.

Seattle-based designer evan Wallace subscribes to this theory, and earlier this year Wallace introduced the Perlini — a device that carbonates cocktails with champagne-grade bubbles while the drink is being shaken. available for home or bar use, the Perlini has already found fans among northwest bartenders and is in use at places including nostrana, where it adds fizz and finesse to a gin-based rickey the Hard Way. — Paul ClarKe $199, perlini.biz

Home roasting can be done with very little equipment — a repurposed popcorn popper and green coffee beans is all a diY-er needs. But while getting started is a breeze, developing coffee with an impressive aroma, body and finish is another story. To overcome this obstacle, mr. Green Beans offers whole bean roasting classes for java aficionados of any skill level. diY doesn’t get much more energizing than a $20 class that includes a pound of beans to roast at home. — Karen loCKe $20, Mr. Green Beans, 3932 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-288-8698; mrgreenbeanspdx.com

cocktail classes at house sPirits

Santa baby, we’ll eschew the sable, the convertible and the yacht this year, but we’re not negotiating on the White dog whiskey, ra Chand juicer and Hawthorne strainer. That’s because once you’ve given someone the gift of a House Spirits distillery cocktail class, and they’ve learned how to create “life-Changing Cocktails,” the only thing that whiskey sour mix in the back of the fridge will be good for is watering the Christmas tree. — Jen STevenSon $25, housespirits.com

Butchery classes at Portland Meat collective

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You know that saying about giving a man a fish versus teaching him to fish? That’s really what Portland meat Collective is all about. Take a class and you will learn how to identify and break down primal and secondary cuts of meat, so you can buy larger, less-expensive cuts and fill your freezer for less dough. You’ll also get a wallop of info about how meat makes it onto your plate. You’ll never look at a filet mignon the same way again. Plus, you’ll walk away with a freezerful of the highest-quality meat to take home, which more than pays for the cost of the class. — adrian J.S. Hale From $200, pdxmeat.com

indian cooking classes

Got someone on your list who loves indian food so much they’ll even eat those mre-style pouches of curry from the supermarket? They’ll love a gift certificate for a cooking class with leena ezekiel. The sparkling native of assam, india, will teach you how to make authentic, accessible indian recipes, from classic chicken tikka masala to more challenging dishes like rogan gosht that are over-the-top delicious. it’s dinner, a show and a trip to india — if only for the evening. — ivY manninG Prices vary, classes are at Bob’s Red Mill, In Good Taste Cooking School, or go to leenaezekiel.com for private class information.

sMall oak Barrel

What does a cocktail geek want besides contraband booze, a first edition of “The Jerry Thomas Bartender’s Guide” and a centrifuge of one’s own? How about a diminutive oak barrel for aging cocktails? at Bull run distilling, you can get 1- and 2-liter sizes with medium “toast” or charring. at F.H. Steinbart’s in Southeast Portland, barrels are more heavily charred. — d.C. $59.95, Bull Run Distilling, 2259 N.W. Quimby St., Portland, 503-224-3483; bullrundistillery.com $49.95, F.H. Steinbart’s, 234 S.E. 12th Ave., Portland, 503-232-8793; fhsteinbart.com

deco Bar in a Box

You can’t swing a swizzle stick in this town without hitting a complicated cocktail, but some of us just don’t have the bartender gene. deco distilling comes to the rescue with their Bar in a Box gift sets, a four-pack that includes a bottle of their flavored rum with gourmet sodas to mix. We love their coffee lovers’ set — Stumptown coffee-infused rum paired with mexican Coke and Thomas Kemper cream soda and root beer. — ivY manninG $33.95, Deco Distilling, 1512 S.E. Seventh Ave., 503-926-7060; decodistilling.com

Bull run distilling’s teMPerance trader BourBon Whiskey

Whether you’re mixing up a manhattan or you like your bourbon neat, you can now reach for a true bourbon with a northwest connection: Bull run distilling’s recently released Temperance Trader bourbon whiskey. oregon distiller lee medoff (formerly of House Spirits) says his oregon whiskey is still a few years away (it’s still aging in charred oak barrels). in the meantime, he acquired a delicious stand-in — bourbon he handpicked for his Temperance Trader label. Hailing from Kentucky, this high-rye whiskey is velvety smooth with an undertone of burnt sugar and citrus zest. Pour me another. — adrian J.S. Hale $30 at area liquor stores and bullrundistillery.com

Books froM PeoPle We love

govino Plastic Wine glasses

Judging from the latest crop of food and drink books that have been published this year, Portland is home to some very talented writers — and most of them, we’re happy to say, write for miX. Several of our contributors have their first book out this year and, not surprisingly, they’ve done a stellar job.

“Portland’s 100 Best Places to stuff your faces” (Wordcake communications, $14.95) Some guidebooks take an all-encompassing approach, cramming so many reviews between their covers that they end up resembling the Yellow Pages. Jen Stevenson, the cheeky writer behind the website under the Table With Jen, was far more discerning in her slim, urban guidebook, published in June. it’s filled with 100 amusing reviews of Stevenson’s favorite culinary hot spots, plus detailed maps, insider tips and lists of culinary events, food tours and more to guide you on a well-curated crave-worthy adventure of your own. — aSHleY GarTland “the great aMerican ale trail: the craft Beer lover’s guide to the Best Watering holes in the nation” (running Press, $20) Portland author Christian deBenedetti spent the last year crisscrossing america to write what may be the definitive book on great american craft-beer bars, pubs and breweries. its nearly 400 pages chronicle deBenedetti’s journey as he leads readers on a coast-to-coast road trip in search of the best the brewing industry has to offer. deBenedetti knows that a great pub is more than just a place to drink beer, and he deftly shows how these places fit into their community and history.

This is a definite must-read for craft beer fans and a book i’ll pack on all subsequent beer trips. — JoHn FoYSTon

craft Beers of the Pacific northWest (timber Press, $18.95) lisa morrison, aka The Beer Goddess, traveled the length and breadth of Cascadia to visit more than 100 key breweries, brewpubs and pubs in oregon, Washington and British Columbia. included are pioneers such mcmenamins Hillsdale Brewery and Public House — the first brewpub in oregon — to the new generation of young innovative brewers such as alex Ganum, whose upright Brewing is creating FrenchBelgian inspired farmhouse beers with a distinct northwest twist. it’s an immensely useful book for

Got a friend who loves concerts in the park?

Give them a set of Govino, the first disposable wineglasses to give crystal a run for its money. The gently rounded shape and thin rim concentrate aromas for maximum enjoyment, while the ergonomic thumb notch adds contemporary style and convenience.

Plus, you don’t have to mess with those stupid snap-on stems. The clear, recyclable, BPa-free plastic is shatterproof and flexible.

What’s not to love? Just this: These puppies might melt in the dishwasher.

Hand wash to reuse them, or, when they’re looking the worse for wear, toss them in the recycling bin. $12.95/four-pack, available at govinowine.com or Barbur World Foods, Cork: A Bottle Shop, Elephants Delicatessen, Pastaworks, Market of Choice, Otto’s Sausage Kitchen, Phil’s Uptown Meat Market and many gourmet groceries.

— KaTHerine Cole

the beginning or experienced beer tourist because morrison includes several walkable pub crawls, a beer primer and glossary, a list of the best bottle shops and a series of fascinating sidebars about the history and culture of good beer in the region.

— JoHn FoYSTon

“BreWed aWakening” (sterling, $24.95) as a full-time freelance beer writer whose work appears in publications such as The new York Times and new York magazine, Brooklyn resident Joshua m. Bernstein makes it his business to keep track of the brewing world’s trends and the people, places and catalysts behind them. in this book, he chronicles them all and puts them all in perspective, from light beers to extreme beers and everything in between. it’s a fascinating read, and with reviews of more than 150 beers, plus info on the more exciting beer events in the country, it’s practical, too. — d.C. “the aMerican cocktail” (chronicle Books, $19.95) You’ve seen cookbooks that explore the regional foods of the country, from Southern grits to new england clambakes. But what about the drinks? This photopacked book, curated by the editors at Portlandbased imbibe magazine, celebrates regional flavors through the lens of craft cocktails, with many of the country’s most talented bartenders offering original recipes with a distinct sense of place.

Full disclosure: MIX editor Danielle Centoni is a former Imbibe editor and helped write this book. But, sadly, she won’t see a single penny from its sales. — d.C.

“dishing uP oregon” (storey Publishing, $19.95) if you’ve ever wanted to eat your way around oregon, rubbing shoulders with the fishermen and cheesemakers and chefs and vintners that make our food scene so special, you need food writer ashley Gartland’s new book. Stories about chefs and food producers from every corner of the state, and a heap of gorgeous color photographs by local food photographer John valls, paint a lively picture of what, and who, make the region special. recipes are culled from the chefs or developed in Gartland’s own kitchen. There’s Park Kitchen chef Scott dolich’s Parsnip-almond Soup, and Wildwood chef dustin Clark’s fork-tender braised beef short ribs, plus more than 100 additional recipes from farmers, vineyard owners, restaurants and country inns around the state. — leSlie Cole “the gluten-free asian kitchen” (celestial arts, $22.99) many gluten-free cookbooks focus mostly on the obvious stuff — baked goods. But navigating the dinner hour is just as much of a challenge. in this book, Portland author laura Byrne russell aims to take the guesswork out of cooking gluten-free asian recipes, from noodle dishes and dumplings to skewers and salads. She guides readers through the minefield of ingredients and sauces, and reveals how to make substitutes that don’t sacrifice flavor while avoiding gluten. — d.C.

41

tiMe for tea toWels

Who knew this would be the year of the tea towel? designers and artists of all genres are looking at the once-utilitarian kitchen staple as a blank canvas, filling home stores with an arty selection that can make even an â&#x20AC;&#x2122;80s-style kitchen seem cool. (need proof? Just type in â&#x20AC;&#x153;tea towelâ&#x20AC;? at etsy.com or thirddrawerdown.com. The selections are stunning.) Tied with a ribbon, the towels can also stand in as super stylish gift wrap. Here are three of our favorites, designed in three of our favorite cities, found at some of our favorite Portland shops. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; d.C.

leah duncan â&#x20AC;&#x153;hello vase,â&#x20AC;? $19. designed in austin, Texas. Available at Tilde, 7919 S.E. 13th Ave., Portland, 503-234-9600, tildeshop.com

The Heated â&#x20AC;&#x153;owlâ&#x20AC;? $11 flour-sack towel. designed in San Francisco. Available at Elsa and Sam (now a Web-only store) elsasam.com, or etsy.com/shop/ theheated Â? Â?

makelike â&#x20AC;&#x153;stumpâ&#x20AC;? linen towel, $26. designed in Portland.

Available at Woonwinkle, 935 S.W. Washington St., Portland, 503-334-2088, woonwinkelhome.com. Or visit shop.makelike.com.

42

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tasteMakers calendar

Pigeon toe ceraMics

This Portland-style pinup calendar puts some of our favorite chefs frontand-center, where they can inspire us every day of the year. From rucker and ricker, to nong and naomi, each chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s portrait comes with a fun Q&a that reveals a little about what makes them tick. itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s locally photographed and produced, and a portion of the proceeds go to the oregon Food Bank. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; D.C. $15.95, available at local stores such as New Seasons, and at thetastemakers2012.squarespace.com.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something almost ethereal about the minimalist ceramics coming out of this Portland studio, but theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re functional all the same. The sugar and creamer set would go with any decor, from a vintage Craftsman kitchen to a sleek, modern dining room. a tiny leather loop forms the handle on the sugar pot, making the set that much more irresistible. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; D.C. $84, Pigeon Toe Ceramics, 727 S.E. Morrison St., Portland, 503-709-5479, pigeontoeceramics.com

lucky Peach

What do you get when you cross superstar chef david Chang, food writer Peter meehan, the production company behind anthony Bourdainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;no reservationsâ&#x20AC;? and hipster publishing company mcSweeneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s? lucky Peach, the most buzzed-about food magazine of the year (besides miX, of course). Published quarterly and anchored by one theme per issue, the mag is nerdy, artsy and fun (e.g. a recipe in pictures for the perfect bowl of ramen in bacon-miso broth). issue no. 2, out this month, is all about The Sweet Spot â&#x20AC;&#x201D; â&#x20AC;&#x153;that brief period of time when meat, fruit, chefs, athletes and kimchi are at their peak.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D; ivY manninG $28 for a one-year subscription, mcsweeneys.net/luckypeach.

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sous vide suPreMe

When cost is of no consequence (or you’ve been a really, really good boy or girl this year), there is the Sous vide Supreme, a sleek, compact “water oven” that allows adventurous cooks to dabble in sous vide cooking with precision. The 2.6-gallon tub has a heating element you can control by the degree Fahrenheit, so you can cook like Thomas Keller without having to rig your crockpot into a scary-looking death trap. — d.C. $399.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

clive stand

need a little eye candy for your countertop?

The elegant, retro-modern Clive Stand lets you brew your pour-over coffee with class. Clive, a boutique retailer of equipment for the coffee enthusiast at home, collaborated with local woodworker delaney Carthagh Kelly to create the simple pour-over stand, made of oregon walnut scraps headed for the burn pile. each handmade stand comes with a glass Hario v-60 pour-over cone and decanter.

— Hanna neuSCHWander

$195, clivecoffee.com

44

Butcher’s aProns

after tiring of the poor fit of traditional aprons, chef adam Sappington of the Country Cat dinner House designed a one-strap european-style apron based on versions he had spotted butchers wearing abroad. now the Portland Garment Factory is producing his durable cotton design for home cooks, so everyone can wear a locally made apron that’s functional, comfortable and good-looking, too. — aSHleY GarTland $85, The Country Cat, 7937 S.E. Stark St., Portland,503-408-1414; thecountrycat.net

Wy’east Pizza seasonal saMPler

Here in Portland, we expect our restaurant specials to feature the best of the season, and the Wy’east Pizza food cart aims to oblige.

There’s a different seasonal artisan pie every month or so, and toppings range from delicata squash and blue cheese to roasted morels and douglas fir-infused oil. To top it all off, they offer a “Seasonal Sampler” gift certificate, which entitles the lucky bearer to four seasonal pies — perfect for the locavore pizza fanatic in your life.

— deena PriCHeP

$50, Wy’East Pizza, 3131 S.E. 50th Ave., 503-7015149; wyeastpizza.com

chef2go asian Market tours

From Fubonn Shopping Center to lily market, one of the largest Thai markets in the northwest, Portland has asian delicacies at its fingertips. Trouble is, a trip down the aisles often leads to utter confusion. Set up the adventurous cook in your life with Chef2Go, a company that provides cooking classes, workshops and, best of all, market tours to help make sense of it all. The asian market tour, led by chef Surja Tjahaja, even begins with a gourmet banquet. — Karen loCKe $40, Chef2Go, 503-656-8910; Chef2go.biz

PHoToGraPH BY BeTH naKamura

Portland fruit tree Project

Sometimes the best gifts are those that remind us of what giving is all about. like all urban areas, Portland faces the problem of hunger.

But we also have an overflowing of fruit from the orchards-turned-backyards that make up our lush city. The Portland Fruit Tree Project elegantly uses Portland’s abundance to meet its needs, connecting overflowing backyard trees with volunteer harvest parties. Half the haul goes to the harvesters, the other half to local food banks. last year’s fruit harvest: nearly 30,000 pounds. Portland Fruit Tree Project can always use the gift of volunteers, harvesting equipment and, of course, donations to help them keep doing their good work. — deena PriCHeP 503-284-6106, portlandfruit.org/support-us

seva foundation

did you know Type 2 diabetes rates are higher for native americans than any other group in the world? With limited access to healthful foods and fresh vegetables, more than half the adults in many tribes are afflicted with the entirely preventable disease. That’s why the Seva Foundation has created the native american Community Health Program. as part of the program, you can donate to “Seeds for Change.” a $50 pledge provides a native family with the seeds and tools they need to grow traditional produce. This helps improve diets, and gives kids a way to connect with their elders, their cultural heritage and learn life skills. — SHoSHanna CoHen $50, Seva Foundation; seva.org PHoToGraPH BY Jon KaPlan

The Minimally Invasive

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Short Scar Face and Neck Lift There is less scarring, shorter recovery, shorter surgery time and less risk than a full facelift.

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Mail-order Munchies nyc coffee cuP

They’re as new York as Times Square and as ubiquitous on “law & order” as the Tv show itself. and yet, unlike those icons, they still haven’t lost their charm. The blue and white, Greek-themed disposable coffee cups hit new York’s streets in 1963 and are still in strong circulation. When you’re holding one of those babies, you know you’re in the Big apple. unless you’re in Portland holding a dishwasher- and microwave-safe ceramic version picked up at Canoe. — D.C. $12, Canoe, 1136 S.W. Alder St., Portland, 503-889-8545; canoeonline.com https://canoeonline.net/shop/inspect/ new-york-coffee-cup

o.P.’s salaMi of the Month cluB

membership in this club has perks. Since olympic Provisions makes 12 flavors of oldWorld-style fermented salami, there’s a new flavor each month. and with each shipment, recipients get a recipe, pairing suggestion or story. local members can also attend monthly tastings with wine pairings for the meats, as well as an annual sausage party in which all 12 flavors are revisited. — SHoSHanna CoHen $135 to $385, Olympic Provisions, 503-894-8136, olympicprovisions.com

Just because friends and family live far away doesn’t mean you can’t treat them to something delicious. While you’re no doubt familiar with made in oregon and Harry & david, here are two other companies that can send some of the best of the northwest anywhere in the country. foodzie Foodzie is the etsy of food, an online marketplace in which artisan-made products get their chance to be discovered. There’s a lot of good stuff to be found there, and the company’s Tasting Box subscriptions are a great way to get to know them. Sign up a foodie friend for the three-, six- or 12-month subscription and the San Francisco-based company will send a box brimming with five carefully curated artisan goodies. They might get mother Peach caramels from Portland, bacon jam from Skillet in Seattle or mother-in-law’s Kimchi, which has a cultlike following in new York. and each product comes with the story behind it. $55-$200; foodzie.com — ivY manninG give Portland gift Baskets Willamette valley Cheese havarti and rosemary crackers from elephants deli. Sassafras Catering’s sunchoke relish and unbound Pickling’s “French Quarter” green beans. Smith Tea, Hot lips Soda, Hopworks iPa. oh! and sweets from alma Chocolates, Bees and Beans and Xocolatl de david. These are just a few of the local, artisan-made, we’re-solucky-we-live-here treats that go into Give Portland’s stellar gift baskets. Collections start at $38, so you can make all of your outof-town friends insanely happy and jealous at the same time.

Starting at $38. giveportlandgifts.com

It’s time . . .

46

Join us for our

Holiday

Open House Wine tasting & artist reception

Fine art, crafts & gifts Nov. 5 & 6 12-4pm Fancy Color Rose Cut Diamonds, Custom 18k White Gold Wedding Set

Lo c a te d a t Twe n t y- S eve n “A” Ave nu e in pic t u r e s q u e d ow n tow n L a ke O s we go O p e n Tu e s d ay t h r u Fr id ay 10 to 5 : 3 0 , S a t u r d ay 10 to 4

Yamhills Gallery & Gifts 901 N. Brutscher St, Suite F Newberg, OR 503-538-1311 YamhillsGallery.com Open daily 10am-5pm

◆ 503 . 636 .4 02 5 w w w.v a nde nbur ghjewele r s .com PRECIOUS GEMS • DIAMONDS • PEARLS • EXPERT PLATINUMSMITHS

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Wildwood Restaurant & Bar

2

Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30 Dinner: Nightly, 5:30-close Happy Hour: Mon- Fri, 4:30-6:30 Private Dining Rooms also available.

Guest Parking lot on Overton St. 1221 NW 21st Avenue Portland OR 503.248.9663 www.wildwoodrestaurant.com

Limo Peruvian Restaurant, located in the heart of the NW, offers a menu featuring Northwest Peruvian coastal cuisine with a touch of a sophisticated ambiance.

Serving Lunch and Dinner 7 days a week

Join us for Happy Hour!

Tue-Sat 4pm-6pm, Sun. 3pm-6pm

701 NW 23rd Avenue Portland OR 503.232.9440 www.papahaydn.com

5

Urban Fondue This renowned steakhouse has been at its original location at West Burnside for 3 generations.

Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients.

Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan Street (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503-242-1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

Nob Hill Marketplace

Serving cuisine from Italy, France and the greater Mediterranean region.

Featuring a full bar and Wine Spectator award-winning wine list.

Private dining rooms available.

Now Hosting Happy Hour 3pm-6pm Monday - Friday

6

4

Serratto

Fine Dining, Catering, Wine, and Wedding Cakes.

340 NW Westover Road Portland OR 503.477.8348 www.limorestaurant.com

Ringside Steakhouse

3

Papa Haydn

Limo Peruvian Restaurant

Cooking from the source in since 1994.

2165 W Burnside Street Portland, OR 503.223.1513 www.ringsidesteakhouse.com

NW Lovejoy St

4

1

Ringside has earned a national reputation serving the best steaks in town with impeccable service and an unmatched wine list, all in a timeless, old-school atmosphere.

NW Kearney St

NW Johnson St

NW Irving St

NW Hoyt St

NW Glisan St

NW Flanders St

NW 22nd Ave

6

NW Davis St

5

NW Everett St

NW 22nd Place

NW Northrup St

NW 23rd Ave

Parking lot on NW Johnson St. Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week.

2112 NW Kearney Street Portland, OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com 7

Dorio Cafe & Taverna Authentic Greek food.

On the street car line.

Lunch, dinner, full bar and carry-out.

Happy Hour Mon-Sat 3pm-6pm 1037 NW 23rd Avenue #200 Portland, OR 503.219.0633 www.dorionw.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lgrant.oregonian.com

five wines [ Brent Braun knows how to get the conversation started ] BY kATHERINE COlE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOTOYA NAkAMURA

f

amily and friends are coming from faraway places, and you’ve got a blockbuster Thanksgiving feast in the works. Whether you’re doing traditional turkey with all the trimmings or vegan/gluten-free-fusion fare, you’ll need wine to go with it.

We’re here to help, but this year, we’ve set some strict vinous criteria to ensure food-friendliness, pleased palates and plenty of conversation.

The host must: 1) Honor the legacy of the original American dinner party (Thanksgiving, of course) by serving solely domestic wines.

2) Impress out-of-town guests with bottles locally produced in the Pacific Northwest.

3) Surprise even the most hard-core locavores and jaded oenophiles with wines they’ve never seen.

Oh, and one more thing: They must accomplish all this without blowing the bank.

Fortunately, we know just where to look for inspiration: Thirst Wine Bar & Bistro. This waterfront watering hole, on the RiverPlace Esplanade, is unabashedly tourist-friendly; it may be (holiday season alert!) the best vantage point in town from which to view the Christmas Ship Parade. But, since June, it has also boasted a tasting room committed to a rotating list of wines from the region.

Visitors can pop in and taste a flight of any five of the tasting room’s 18 featured wines for $5 and buy bottles to go at retail prices. Tasting room manager Brent Braun describes the setup as a “communal tasting space” serving multiple Pacific Northwest wineries. “You can’t just browse my selection here,” he says. “You have to learn about a wine if you want to take it home.”

At the tender age of 25, Braun already has achieved sommelier certification, has worked as a wholesaler of French wines and has a stint at Portland Wine Merchants under his belt. On top of that, he’s been helping out the guys at the inner Southeast urban winery Enso with vinification, sales and industry know-how. And Braun’s excitement about Northwest wines is infectious.

“We are in an unbelievable climate for white wine here.

We can grow all the German and Austrian varietals, and our chardonnays are some of the best in the world,” he gushes. “Washington winemakers are getting so much smarter in exploring different varietals, making them with old-world nuance and finesse. And with the advent of garage winemaking, you have small producers who can make very thoughtful wines; production is so small that they aren’t worried about scores and don’t have anything to lose by experimenting.”

Despite his enthusiasm, Braun’s attitude toward wine is decidedly low-key, as evidenced by the quirky wine blog he

49

mmodations Exquisite Accommodations Private Dining Great Location catio ation

five wines cont.

A European Style Bed & Breakfast

and girlfriend Devon Duncan publish under blushnaked.blogspot.com. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Context is the most important part of wine and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what we all forget about,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you want to grow and experience wine more deeply, you can, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not essential.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essential is just to step back and enjoy it.â&#x20AC;?

We asked Braun for his Thanksgiving picks, and he came up with an anti-snob list thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s local yet eclectic. These wines are delicious, approachable â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and definite conversation-starters.

809 NE Evans McMinnville, OR 97128 800.441.2214 -or- 503.434.9016 www.a-tuscanestate.com

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THE WINES

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50

AN APERITIF WITH lEGS 2010 Montinore Estate Willamette Valley MĂźllerThurgau ($9.50) A man named MĂźller, born in the Swiss town of Thurgau, crossed riesling with table grapes to develop the quirky hybrid MĂźller-Thurgau. It tends to make dreadful swill in Germany and Austria, divine wine in the Alto Adige region of Italy and quite a nice little bargain bottle in Oregon. In Montinoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biodynamically grown interpretation, notes Braun, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Apples, summer peaches and peppery tree sap float over a frame of clean florality.â&#x20AC;? A light body, crisp acidity and 11.6 percent alcohol by volume make this an ideal aperitif; its juicy exuberance makes it a dinner wine, too, that can take on the likes of baconapple brussels sprouts or most autumn soups, according to Braun. And if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re planning any Asian-inspired feasts for the holidays, put a bottle of this M.T. on ice: â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is the perfect wine for anything spicy, particularly foods with Pacific Rim influences,â&#x20AC;? says Braun.

YOU SAY POTATO, I SAY AUXERROIS 2010 Adelsheim Vineyards Ribbon Springs Vineyard Ribbon Ridge Auxerrois ($20) Why havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you heard about auxerrois? Well, for starters, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big in â&#x20AC;Ś luxembourg. In Alsace, where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also widely planted, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mostly blended with pinot blanc. And here in the U.S., there are only three auxerrois producers. The Willamette Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Adelsheim is one

of them. Thanks to its bright acidity, this quirky white makes a zippy kickoff cocktail. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got some weight to it, too, with a finish, according to Braun, of apple pie and graham crackers, â&#x20AC;&#x153;rich enough to hold up to classic candied yams with marshmallows or garlic mashed potatoes.â&#x20AC;? As if we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t already sold, he adds this enticing description: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Imagine blending a Macon chardonnay and an Alsatian pinot gris.â&#x20AC;? Oh, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pronounced oak-sair-wah.

SPAIN + YAkIMA VAllEY = ÂĄOlE! 2009 Idilico Garnacha ($21) Javier Alfonso is known in Washington as the rocket propulsion engineer who moonlights as the winemaker behind the Pomum Cellars label. With his Idilico project, Alfonso is returning to his Spanish roots in the Ribera del Duero. The garnacha (or grenache) grape is common enough in Spain and southern France, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not planted widely in these parts.

It seemed destiny, then, when Alfonso discovered garnacha growing at Upland Vineyards in the Snipes Mountain appellation of the Yakima Valley, just a few miles from his birthplace in Sunnyside, Wash. (although he was born in Washington, he grew up in Spain; now heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back). This softly spicy red reflects that marriage of Old and New Worlds: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s powerful yet fresh, with â&#x20AC;&#x153;subtle richness,â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;an impressive stoninessâ&#x20AC;? and candied raspberry and strawberry notes ideal for complementing cranberry sauce, stuffing and turkey, observes Braun.

Also, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great conversation starter for the Thanksgiving table. Because, you see, the label is named after a bull that showed such brio in the ring against Spainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous matador recently that the Barcelonan crowd demanded that the beast be pardoned from the usual death sentence. (The turkey youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be eating? Not so lucky.)

PASS THE PASSIVEAGGRESSIVE, PlEASE 2008 Behemoth Columbia Valley Red Wine ($14) Some people buy wines with â&#x20AC;&#x153;critter labelsâ&#x20AC;? because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re cute. Then thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the demo-

- * 7 . :œºª: vI]ª

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graphic that goes for wine labels because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re subversively suggestive. Group B, your wine is Behemoth. At first glance, the label art is a simple etching of an upright elephant. Upon further scrutiny, one notes that it is in fact an angry elephant, with monster claws, a mean gaze and a belly thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beyond-pregnancy full. Too much turkey, perhaps? Whatever the cause, this critter is a manifestation of all your Thanksgiving fears. Namely, overindulgence and crabbiness. But at this price, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be too crabby. This blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and syrah is the brainchild of man-about-town Matt Berson, also known as assistant winemaker at Brooks and the mind behind the love & Squalor label. â&#x20AC;&#x153;With a nose of iron, blood, fresh-baked cookie and herby cedar spice, this wine is not a fruit bomb,â&#x20AC;? notes Braun. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Its juicy, medium-bodied palate teeters back and forth between wet stones and cinnamon-toast-blueberrycrunch. Its finish is basically like sucking on slate lollipop and it lasts forever.â&#x20AC;? In short, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect please-all red, for turkey, stuffing and whatever else is on the table.

SWEETlY SAUTERNES-lIkE 2008 ArborBrook Vineyards â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sydneyâ&#x20AC;? Klipsun Vineyard Red Mountain Semillon ($22.50) To finish things off, we turn to the classic dessert-wine grape of Bordeaux, grown at the famed klipsun Vineyard in Washington and vinified by the Willamette Valley winery ArborBrook. Its richness comes from a late harvest date near the end of November, when the grapes had raisined on the vine and their sugared concentration was further amplified by an early winter snowfall and freeze.

While it may not be Sauternes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still stunning: Honey-colored and sweetly concentrated, it displays notes of honeysuckle, marmalade and tropical citrus. Braun recommends pairing this beauty with pumpkin, pecan or fruit pies; minimalists might drizzle it over ice cream or serve it alongside a simple slice of cheese. ÂŁ

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51

LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

LAKE OSWEGO: Kruse Way area

C Ave

A Ave

Kruse Way

1

N State St

6 3

1st St

2

2nd St

3rd St

4th St

5th St

(to downtown)

B Ave 6th St

Country Club Rd

43 5

â&#x2013;˛ N

Evergreen Rd Lak e Ba y Ct

7 1

2

THE ARTISAN CUSTOM FRAMING & GALLERY

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Exceptional wines at exceptional prices. â&#x20AC;˘ Affordable wines from around the world â&#x20AC;˘ Friday night tastings â&#x20AC;˘ Private tastings by reservation â&#x20AC;˘ Gift baskets available for order â&#x20AC;˘ We now serve wine by the glass!

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Dyke has been een creating custom gol gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dykeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s custom jewelry, the showroom also features ďŹ ne quality designer jewelry from around the world.

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Lake Oswego Marketplace

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Experience the senses of Thailand with Dangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Thai Kitchen. We specialize in gourmet Thai Food prepared uniquely with a fusion twist. We serve the ďŹ nest in Thai Cuisine using only the freshest ingredients.

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Lakewood Bay

Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Only Olive Oil BarÂŽ Store!

Taste before you buy! â&#x20AC;˘ Sample Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Aged Balsamics, and Nut Oils, all handbottled to order. â&#x20AC;˘ A unique selection of gourmet foods: balsamic sauces, pastas, stuffed olives, and more! â&#x20AC;˘ Start Stocking Up for the Holidays!

GREAT gift ideas . . . from specialty oils and vinegars to luxurious health and beauty products made with Olive Oil! Come in and check them out . . . you can sample them before you buy!

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-4 438 1st Street â&#x20AC;˘ 503.675.6457 www.oilerie.com

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I.D.

[ This food sleuth finds the best ]

BY ASHLEY GARTLAND / PHOTOGRAPH BY TAYLOR SCHEFSTROM Brenda Crow has been a specialty food buyer, a gourmet food importer and a chef. And with the launch of her FoodShed website, ourfoodshed. com, last December, the Northeast Portland resident puts all three skills to good use and adds another title to her résumé: food sleuth.

Now Crow scours the country for top-notch regional farmstead products (think coffee-flavored cajeta from Vermont or bourbon-barrel-aged Worcestershire sauce from Kentucky) and sells them through her online artisan foods marketplace. Through passionate reviews, artisan profiles and recipes, she introduces home cooks to a nation of products she loves.

You’re something of a food industry matchmaker.

The idea of selling artisan products online isn’t new, but my approach to it is new. Next to each product on my site, there is a button that says “Find Locally.” It’s part of my greater mission to give consumers access to quality food and to help them find ways to support their own communities.

Your stamp of approval goes to …

Bluebird Grain Farms is a shining example of an artisan producer.

They actually silo and mill their own products, and you will never work with a flour fresher than theirs. Also, Viridian Farms just brought in a new mill for all their dried peppers. So they also are drying and milling their own spices.

And I carry their ficoide glaciale and their pimiento de padron peppers on the site seasonally.

What’s surprised you about the American foodshed?

A raw ingredient is a raw ingredient, but when you get to the crafting process, it’s interesting how much of a person’s personality comes through in the product.

That’s why I like to get to know the producers. It gives me perspective on why they used the techniques they did to create their products.

What’s your specialty?

I love making handmade pasta and recently made emmer wheat pasta with the Bluebird Grain Farms flour. I thought it would be really dense but it wasn’t at all. It was sweet and flavorful and had a mildly malty flavor and a lot of depth to it. Then I was inspired by

John (Gorham) at Tasty & Sons, where I had a ragu that he had topped with a scoop of mascarpone and some shaved truffles.

So with the emmer wheat pasta, I made a wild boar ragu and served it with a scoop of mascarpone and some truffle oil.

What product are you most excited about?

I have a fennel pollen and a dill pollen collector from California that I’m excited about bringing onto the site. I am in love with fennel pollen, but it hasn’t been until recently that someone has been collecting it in California. It’s always been from Italy.

53

Are there any unavoidable job hazards?

Because I develop a lot of the recipes and cook everything you see on the site, it creates an overwhelming amount of food in my fridge. I am basically eating too much. You don’t even think about it until the next thing you know you have two cakes made and another dessert you’re working on and chorizo fritters, too.

Your pantry must be overflowing, too.

I do have a great pantry, especially in the condiment department. For honey alone, I probably have eight to 10 types of honey and then I have maybe 15 to 20 types of jam, 10 different oils and some really beautiful spices. My pantry is very full.

“Gourmet” — good or bad label?

People think gourmet foods are so special that they don’t use them.

They reserve bottles of olive oil because they’re so expensive, but it’s

a food that is meant to be opened and enjoyed. I want to help break down that barrier and open up the possibilities for the food lover and the cook. And once that product is open, I want to teach people how to use it.

What’s your philosophy on American food?

When you work in the industry, you get a perspective on how much of our food is imported and how much is exported. It’s shocking

to see how much of our food is appreciated by others and not us.

That’s the case with cranberries and tuna in Oregon, for example.

In the last 15 years, there has been an emphasis on European food.

But I don’t think a bright enough light has been shined on what our national treasures are. Right now, when so much food is being imported and exported, it’s a fine time to look inward and appreciate what we have here. £

t

mixmaster [ A bitter romance: digestifs ]

54

ake it from the Italians: A great meal deserves a grand finale. For generations they’ve finished elaborate meals with sips of something bracing and bitter.

These bitter liqueurs, or amari, have a history rooted in folk medicine and are flavored with lengthy (and typically secret) lists of flowers, citrus peel, roots, herbs and other botanical ingredients that are chosen for their perceived powers at aiding digestion, as well as for the complex and sometimes memorably bitter flavors the blends produce.

The scientific jury is still out on the medicinal properties of these liqueurs, but when it comes to ending a meal — especially salving the effects of an autumnal indulgence of holiday proportions — Italian amari and other bitter digestifs are much sexier than Maalox will ever be.

“We’ve all felt the effects of a big meal, and amari really do feel like they have a medicinal quality,” says Adam Robinson, bar manager at The Bent Brick. Of course, what began as medicinal evolved into recreational, and now Robinson sees more guests venturing into the dark, bitter reaches of the digestif universe purely for the pleasure of the journey. And bartenders are turning to these liqueurs to add depth and complexity to drinks.

“People are getting much more adventurous in eating and drinking, especially in Portland. I don’t think you’d see a lot of this stuff in Iowa,” he says.

Long ruled by the Italians, the realm of bitter digestifs also has representatives from other European traditions, and recently local producers have been entering the arena, as well. As you ready your bar for the arrival of dinner party season, here are a few particularly interesting digestifs you should consider adding to the lineup.

By PAUL CLARKE PHOTOGRAPH By DOUG BEGHTEL

Amaro Nonino: With its rich, gentle flavor, Amaro Nonino is also among the more approachable amari, but don’t equate “drinkable” with “boring.”

Based on grape brandy, flavored with a mix of ingredients including saffron, tamarind and rhubarb, and aged in oak barrels, Amaro Nonino has a light, floral complexity and a silky texture that can assuage any dinner-table overindulgence with ease.

What it tastes like: Lightly bitter, with a graceful, multifaceted flavor of burnt orange, sarsaparilla and licorice.

How to serve: On its own, over ice with a little club soda and a sliver of orange peel, or in a cocktail such as the whiskey- and Aperolbased Paper Plane at St. Jack, or the cranberryspiked Black Wednesday on Page 12.

Open: Wednesday-Sunday 4pm to 9pm Averna: Dark, rich and easy to love, Averna enjoys a position of special prominence in Italy.

Introduced in Sicily in 1868, Averna is an approachable amaro well-suited for the bitter-averse, though with a botanical complexity and just enough of an herbaceous snap to keep more adventurous palates engaged.

What it tastes like: Mildly sweet and rich, with notes of cacao, cola, rhubarb and orange peel.

How to serve: Traditionally served on its own or with a chunk of ice, Averna is also used in cocktails such as the rum-based Mandolin Rain (which also has Fernet Branca) at Beaker & Flask.

Zwack: Amari may be synonymous with Italy, but other countries have their own versions of bitter digestive liqueurs. Hungary-based Zwack began commercially producing the mind-bendingly bitter Unicum in 1840, after a Zwack family ancestor developed the liqueur for the Hapsburg court in the late 1700s. In 2006, the company debuted its new liqueur, simply called Zwack, which has a somewhat subdued bitter character accented with ingredients including ginger, anise and orange peel.

What it tastes like: Bright flavors of cherries and oranges and a warm, spicy character conceal a bold, bitter punch.

Assertive, yet charming.

How to serve: On its own, or in cocktails such as the Irish whiskey- and Cynar-based Fall From Grace at Park Kitchen.

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mixmaster cont.

56

Ramazzotti Amaro:

Fernet Branca:

Chinato d’Erbetti:

Calisaya:

Less aggressive than Fernet Branca yet edgier than Averna, Ramazzotti is a good “just right” amaro that’s enjoying special attention among Northwest bartenders. Developed in Milan in 1815, Ramazzotti is one of the most widely exported amari, made with botanicals that give the liqueur a bracing bite and a long, cascading finish of flavors.

What it tastes like: Refreshingly bitter and mildly sweet, with prominent flavors of coffee and bitter oranges.

How to serve: On its own or on ice, or in simple cocktails such as the sparkling, orange-flavored Amaro Cobbler served at Teardrop Cocktail Lounge.

If this Milanese liqueur were any less subtle, a crafty prosecutor would be able to file assault charges against its aggressive flavor.

Brusquely bitter and unapologetically herbaceous, Fernet Branca has developed an ardent following, and has a core audience among West Coast bartenders, to whom a shot of Fernet and a chaser of ginger beer is sometimes referred to as a “Bartender’s Handshake.” Frightening at first but also potently alluring, Fernet Branca has a way of bringing bitter novices over to the dark side.

What it tastes like: Bitter and intricately complex.

Mint and eucalyptus are prominent among the more than 40 ingredients used to create the liqueur’s elaborate flavors.

How to serve: On its own, in a cocktail such as a classic gin-based Hanky Panky, or with rum, bourbon and black currant liqueur in the Sister Ray served at Rum Club.

The taking of a digestivo may be a European tradition, but recently locals have started getting into the game. Chinato d’Erbetti, from Carlton-based Cana’s Feast Winery, is a drink styled after Italy’s Barolo Chinato. Based on Washington-grown nebbiolo grapes, fortified with grape spirits from Clear Creek Distillery, and flavored with extracts of herbs and spices including black pepper, coriander, clove and the refreshingly bitter gentian, Chinato d’Erbetti marks a local move into the intriguing world of digestive drinks.

What it tastes like: Deep and rich, with notes of chocolate, pepper and alpine flowers, and a gradual, lingering bitterness.

How to serve: In a small glass following a meal, or in a cocktail such as the bourbon-based Path to Victory, served at The Bent Brick (recipe at MIXPDX.COM).

Introduced last year by Eugene-based Andrea Loreto, Calisaya is an Oregon-made amaro in the Tuscan tradition. As with many classic Italian liqueurs of the style, Loreto flavored Calisaya with a mostly secret mix of botanicals that notably includes bitter oranges and cinchona bark — the source of quinine, and which gives tonic water and other amari their signature bitterness — and sweetened the mix with agave nectar. Now in its second year, Calisaya is a bold-flavored addition to the state’s offerings.

What it tastes like: Engagingly complex with flavors of cinnamon, toffee and bitter orange, with a prominent, stimulating bitterness.

How to serve: On its own, over ice with club soda or tonic, or mixed with white port in Bird in the Hand, from a recent menu at Clyde Common.

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 onLine extra: Get the recipe for adam robinson’s Path to Victory cocktail at mixPdx.com

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scene Our picks for what to eat where

57

ReviewS

cocotte sunshine Tavern big ten

Great cheap eats HigH Five

Wine country getaways

Server Katie Whitaker holds Cocotte’s signature dish — Poulet en Cocotte — made with milk-fed chicken, risotto, market fresh produce and a poached egg. p58 PHOTOGRAPH BY BRiAn lee

scene

neW revieWs Cocotte

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRiAn lee

skin, it comes perched on a vinegary farro risotto with jus, topped with a fried egg, and is the star of the show.

At $25, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more expensive than most of the other entrees (priced in the teens), but worth it.

Presentations vary week to week, which is refreshing for regulars and challenging for chefs. You might find a pork chop served with chard in a pool of peach coulis and a loose lean-to of purslane one night, then find it sitting on a bed of ratatouille the next. Both were delicious. But changes can feel more like inconsistency when, on a Wednesday, the albacore is too salty but cooked perfectly, yet on Saturday the flavors are kept in check but the fish is dry. it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help when the menu misleads. A salad described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fennel Salad: shaved fennel, farm greens, creamy tarragon dressing,â&#x20AC;? was actually dominated by the flavor of a dozen salty Castelvetrano olive halves. At the same time, some listed ingredients never materialize, with no warning from the server. Copy editing is not a part of a serverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s side work, but diners must be made aware of what they are ordering before it comes to the table. Other peccadilloes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; forgotten items, water glasses not refilled and long waits between courses â&#x20AC;&#x201D; are harder to ignore, let alone pardon, in a 30seat dining room.

But Cocotte goes a long way toward making up for these shortcomings with its desserts, including the fromage blanc, a fantastic rendition of

Cocotte cheesecake with a shortbread foundation supporting a billowy white cheese filling. And if they liked, liebman and Hackett could build a thriving business on their delicious house-made ice cream alone â&#x20AC;&#x201D; in flavors such as refreshing cantaloupe and delicate honey-lavender. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MiCHAel RuSSell 2930 N.E. Killingsworth St.; 503-227-2669; cocottepdx.com

Sunshine Tavern

Sure, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s called a tavern, and it has a bar and a shuffleboard table, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a place to stop by for a Rainier and a ballgame. it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even have Rainier â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the brew list runs more to Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier â&#x20AC;&#x201D; or a TV, but there are vintage Ms. Pac-Man

SPICE UP YOUR

FOOTBALL WEEKEND FOOTBALL

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PLATER P L AT TE ER LARGE ORDER DELIVERY

32 3241108V01

58

Since opening in spring, Cocotte owners Kat liebman and Zoe Hackett have been applying French preparations to fun, uncommon and uncommonly fresh ingredients at this sleepy bistro on the restaurant-laden corner of northeast Killingsworth Street and 30th Avenue.

Planted in the former Fats Pub space near Autentica, Beast, Yakuza and DOC, Cocotteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining room is decorated as if from the pages of a botanistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journal, with framed drawings of flora, fresh-cut flowers and a vertical garden.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty to like among the shareable plates, where the seasonal ingredients show up first in simple salads. A highlight combined tender lettuce with juicy figs, crunchy hazelnut brittle and an ever-so-savory honey-yogurt vinaigrette. A small cup of airy chicken liver mousse arrived with a dollop of blackberry jam and an assortment of house-made pickles.

The firm escargot, served in a rich Mornay with zucchini, julienned leeks and slices of baguette (a useful tool for scooping), are perfect for anyone whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wanted to try snails but has been afraid to.

As the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Twitter account notes, Cocotte can mean â&#x20AC;&#x153;hen, honey, dish, chick (or) harlot.â&#x20AC;? The poulet en cocotte, a milk-fed, confit-fried half chicken, is one realization of this name. A crisscrossed leg and breast of juicy meat and delicately fried

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and Donkey Kong machines, which are as ironic as the name “tavern.”

But the irony stops at Sunshine Tavern’s menu, with its heartfelt fried chicken on a waffle with clover honey — one of the most sincere entrees in town.

The chicken is crispy but moist within. The contrast with its honey-holding waffle base makes it clear why somebody originally thought — sincerely — that fried chicken and waffles could be a good combination.

Also, it’s a great item for brunch, a new addition to Sunshine Tavern’s offerings.

Sunshine Tavern is the hipster kid brother of Jenn louis’ upwardly mobile lincoln restaurant. it has the same family fondness for hen’s eggs and precise cooking, with a kid brother’s fondness for beer and bar food.

Sunshine Tavern can remind you that youth has its points. it builds on the generational obsession with fries. Sunshine Tavern’s are crisp and firm, forceful enough to stand up to cheese and pork sausage gravy. (Kid brothers think they’ll live forever.) not only are the fries impressive, but they also accompany the majority of the restaurant’s most interesting main dishes. They come with crispy oysters that are at once crunchy and delicate, thinly sheathed, melty and briny in the middle. They set off a juicy pile of skirt steak slices, glazed with

a shallot-thyme butter. They are served with all sandwiches — notably a sizable, meaty burger buried in grilled onions and cole slaw, with optional additions from a fried egg to chicken liver mousse.

The crisp, fresh pizzas stand alone, topped by hen eggs, pepperoni, zucchini or some wilder additions — perhaps pork belly or anchovies.

There’s a single dessert, the creamy soft-serve ice cream of youthful memories; the ice cream can be gilded with a chocolate coating or a snappy hazelnut crunch. The new brunch sometimes spins off a weekend dessert bonus — biscuits with a honey berry compote and a cloud of whipped cream. it all, along with the shuffleboard table, contributes to an atmosphere as welcoming as chicken and waffles. Prices are equally relaxed. nothing is more than $15, and unexpected beers and beer shandy mixtures can be found for $5.

Sunshine Tavern is so easygoing, with a menu so cheerfully deep-fried, you might lose sight of how deftly the food is designed and assembled. Put down your beer for a moment, step away from the Donkey Kong machine and notice it.

Point it out to your kid brother, too.

After all, the place was designed for him.

— DAViD SARASOHn

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROSS WilliAM HAMilTOn

3111 S.E. Division St.; 503-6881750; sunshinepdx.com

Sunshine Tavern

White’s Country Meats TOP QUALITY, CUSTOM CUTTING YOU WILL NEVER FIND QUALITY & SERVICE LIKE THIS IN A GROCERY STORE

1207 SE KANE RD, GRESHAM | 503.666.0967

59

scene

BiG Ten Cheap Eats

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all looking at our bank statements a little more closely this month, what with all the holiday shopping and entertaining we have on the agenda. With that in mind, we put together a list of 10 dirtcheap yet mighty-tasty places to fill up without going broke. Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re shopping downtown or looking for some chow close to home, we have you covered.

1) Sweet Hereafter This all-vegan bar is owned by the same people behind northeast Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular lounge the Bye and Bye. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a similar down-home Southern charm at play. The main room features paintings of race car drivers and baseball players, and PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRiAn lee

Sweet Hereafter drinks like the signature Hereafter â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a blend of sweet tea, vodka and bourbon â&#x20AC;&#x201D; are served in Mason jars.

During happy hour, which runs from 4 to 7 p.m. daily, the house white

and red wines run $4 a glass, and $1 is shaved off most menu items, including a super-filling Jamaica Bowl ($7), featuring spicy tofu, black beans, brown rice and kale thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

been cooked in coconut milk to quell the fire. Combine that with a hummus plate ($3), which comes with half a baguette and a cup of spicy chickpea spread , and a few drinks, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve

Thanksgiving

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Tasting Event!

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got a fun date night for less than $20. —GRAnT BuTleR 3326 S.E. Belmont St.; no phone

2) Killer burger At this narrow Hollywood burger joint, all burgers come with bacon, as all burgers should.

While the Classic (cheese, bacon, pickles) is juicy, messy goodness, the peanut butter-pickle-bacon burger, which sounds like a disaster, is actually pretty good.

The peanut butter is thinned down to more of a Thai-style peanut sauce, and the bacon, pickle and grilled bun lend plenty of texture. The burgers here are big and bold, which means subtler tastes, such as the roasted green chiles on the Jose Mendoza or the mushrooms on the Fun Guy, can get lost unless you order them as sliders. Though not advertised, there are free refills on the thick-cut french fries, and you can add a second burger patty for $2. Sorry malt lovers, drinks are strictly soda and craft beers on tap.

— MiCHAel RuSSell

4644 N.E. Sandy Blvd.; 971-544-7521

3) Sushi takahashi 2 The first Sushi Takahashi now operates under another name (Sushi ichiban), so the “2” here is superfluous, but this hole-inthe-wall just south of downtown Portland is a haven for lovers PHOTOGRAPH BY OliViA BuCK

of fresh fish on the cheap. it’s easy to fill up for less than $10 if you’re on a budget. Seating is just a u-shaped sushi bar with a model train running through the center, which shuttles rolls and raw fish goodies under your nose. But those in the know order off the menu for ultimate freshness. Try the fried oyster hand roll, a cone of seaweed wrapped around a crispy-tender fried northwest oyster for just $2, or get the jalapeño hand roll, a spicy concoction of salmon baked into a hollowed-out jalapeño chile, also $2. For 75 cents, you can get real Oregon wasabi to accent your sushi. — KYle O’BRien

2415 S.W. Fifth Ave.; 503-219-9027

4) Laurelhurst Cafe This new neighborhood spot, in a former gas station across the street from the Portland Police Bureau’s Traffic Division and not far from Providence Portland Medical Center, has gone through many iterations — restaurant, cafe, pizzeria — and now serves quality sandwiches and drinks in an airy space with a charming patio. Worthy choices include the thin and crisp Pig & Fig panini, made with salami, figchardonnay spread and gorgonzola on grilled ciabatta. The tuna sandwich combines the fish with minced red onions and cucumbers on a rich focaccia with butter lettuce, arugula and Muenster cheese. To finish, try the brown

Suzette

Discover Distilled Difference please enjoy our products and the outdoors responsibly

dryflydistilling.com

61

Cruzroom

scene / BiG Ten conT sugar-topped gooey blueberry crumble with juicy peaches below. Beverages get careful consideration, too, with craft beers on tap, local wines by the glass, Steven Smith tea, Water Avenue coffee and espresso. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MiCHAel RuSSell 4611 E. Burnside St.; 503-548-6320; laurelhurstcafe.com

5) Suzette Chef Jehnee Rains knows how to tackle a sweet tooth. Her background includes stints making desserts at Bluehour and Clarklewis before she settled into a delicious groove with Suzette, an Alberta District crepe restaurant where sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s showing a knack for savory dishes, too.

Traipse down the gravel walkway and order dishes from the window of the sleek Airstream trailer, then head into the old building thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been redone into a bright dining room. Start with a generous half salad of leafy greens tossed with apple slices and candied walnuts ($3), or a filling cup of French onion soup, with a rich beef broth, a monster-

sized crouton and the classic topper of melted gruyère ($3). Then focus on the savory crepes, like a buckwheat crepe filled with prosciutto, gruyère and caramelized onions ($6.50). The vegan crepes, made with egg substitute and soy milk, get topped with a silken tofu garlic sauce. DiY fans will love the create-your-own crepes, which start at $4, with mix-and-match ingredients for 75 cents to $1. During happy hour, crepes are a buck off, and at 7:30 p.m.

Fridays, the restaurant lowers a screen and shows free classic films (check the website for details). â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GRAnT BuTleR 2921 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-473-8657; suzettepdx.com

6) india Sweets and Spices A modest indian grocery in a strip mall, india Sweets and Spices also features a small cafe that caters to the South Asian palate (the food is spicier). The menu is entirely vegetarian but you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the meat. The daily special ($5.99) is a sure bet, offering the vegetable of the day, rice, raita (yogurt-based sauce) and a pickle (a vegetable cooked in oil

and spices). The side dishes constitute a meal by themselves, including the dal makhani (lentils in a buttery sauce; $5.99) and aloo gobi ($4.99), featuring tender cauliflower and potatoes in a robustly spiced sauce. For dessert, make room for rasgullas (cheese curds and semolina dough cooked in sugar syrup), which arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t usually available at restaurants (two pieces are $2.99). There are a few tables at the cafe, but the space is not designed for a leisurely meal. itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to order takeout and enjoy the food at home. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAHeSH RAJ MOHAn 16205 N.W. Bethany Court, Suite 110, Beaverton; 503-690-0499; indiasweetsandspices-oregon.net

7) east Side Delicatessen Sometimes you just want a big, fat, cheap sandwich. You know the kind: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrapped in butcher paper and stuffed with meat, cheese and veggies. east Side Delicatessen is there for you with three locations â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the original on Hawthorne Boulevard and the newer spots on north lombard Street and downtown in the South Park Blocks.

The ingredients are high quality and the sandwiches are cheap and filling. You can order off the meat eaters or vegetarian/vegan menu, or you can create your own custom sandwich by checking off ingredients on a long laminated dry-erase list. Six-inch subs are $6, and

62

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a footlong will run you $11.50. Many veggie selections feature Field Roast vegan “meat,” but their carnivorous counterparts rock the Boar’s Head cold cuts. The roast beef is somehow both lean and buttery; the Blazing Buffalo Chicken Breast is tender, if not particularly spicy; and the Field Roast tastes like a less-salty pastrami. You can choose from a range of fresh veggies — the basics, plus welcome additions such as shredded carrots, sauerkraut, black olives, mushrooms and jalapeños.

day, that means roasted lamb or kafta meatballs. Thursday to Saturday, it’s curry chicken or roasted lamb shank, each served over saffron basmati rice with choices of tabouli or Greek salad, and hummus or baba ghanouj (go with the baba ghanouj). Falafel and shawarma run $5-$6, but you might wish for a fresher pita than the store-bought bread here. Try a $3.50 spinach pie. Warmed up, it makes for a light lunch or nice midafternoon snack. Try the Moroccan cook’s signature couscous when it’s available.

— JAKe Ten PAS

—MiCHAel RuSSell

8) All Spice Deli

9) Oregon Culinary institute

Three locations; pdxdeli.com

Just up the hill from the Central library, All Spice Deli serves inexpensive and good lebanese food. items from the deli case, including Mediterranean spreads, kebabs and cabbage rolls stuffed with beef and dirty rice, are tasty, but the real specials are, fittingly, the daily specials (usually under $10). Monday through Wednes-

911 S.W. 10th Ave., 503-222-1255

it’s like getting your hair or nails done at a beauty school: less consistent, a little more of a gamble, but a whole lot cheaper. The Oregon Culinary institute, one of Portland’s three professional culinary training schools, offers a three-course lunch menu ($9; seating at noon) and a four-course dinner ($18; seating at 7 p.m.). The

The Holidays are the Cheeriest at Bethany Village!

Come Join Us this Holiday Season

menus are designed, prepared and served by students, so go expecting amateurs and awkwardness. Still, while the preparation isn’t always consistent, dishes include fancy cheeses, fresh vegetables and sought-after meats and fish. But don’t go without a reservation — limited seatings mean spots fill up fast, and sometimes the restaurant will close for student orientations. — AlexAnDRA MAnZAnO 1701 S.W. Jefferson St.; 503-961-6200; oregonculinaryinstitute.com/ restaurant

10) Cruzroom The Cruzroom makes the taco equivalent of Teenage Mutant ninja Turtle pizza flavors or Scooby-Doo sandwiches. except, instead of a slice dripping with anchovies, ice cream and hot fudge, you get corn tortillas filled with meatloaf, twice-fried potatoes and pepperoni sauce. The other difference is that these combos usually taste good. The el Capitan

($2.95), with twice-fried Yukon golds, applewood bacon, roasted corn salsa, pickled onions and blue cheese sauce is incredible — smoky, sweet, salty and a touch spicy. But some of the adventurous tacos fall flat. The Cheese Head ($3.50) and Broken Bean ($2.95) feel like chips preloaded with dip as opposed to unconventional tacos. Sides ($2.50) include homemade pasta salad of the day, tomatillo Greek salad, Asian salad and Tots a la Cruz — with smoked cheese sauce, guajillo chile sauce, tomatoes and green onions. The drinks are as much a reason to visit as the unusual tacos.

The Somerset Maugham ($8) features black tea and blueberry-laced vodka, fresh mint, lemon and soda. There’s a rotating schedule of DJs who keep the beats fresh — Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings seems to be a favorite.

A funky selection of movies on the flat screens makes for interesting eye candy. — JAKe Ten PAS 2338 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-208-3483; cruzroom.com

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ENJOY THE SEASON • FROM THE MERCHANTS AT BETHANY VILLAGE • QFC • Piccolo Mondo Toys • Cindy's Hallmark • Walgreen's • Bank of America • Chase Bank • Bethany's Table • Bliss Cupcake Shop • Chen's Dynasty • Curry Leaf • Divine Yogurt • Juan Colorado • Subway • Sweet Lemon Vegetarian Bistro • TOMO Sushi & Teriyaki • Sunset Cycles • Starbucks • Bethany Family Dental • Hillside Dental at Bethany • Catrick Cleaners • Huntington Learning Center • Sweet Peas Kidzone • Edward Jones • H&R Block • Bethany Athletic Club • All Star Dance Academy • U.S. West Coast Taekwondo • Santosha Yoga for Everybody • Allstate • Sherrie Weitzel Interiors • Cedar Mill Community Library @ Bethany • Eyes at Bethany Village • OHSU Doernbecher Pediatrics • Therapeutic Associates • Biscuit Café • Bethany Family Pet Clinic • Great Clips • Island Tan • Nailzbizarre • Tres Bon Salon • Laurel Parc, A Senior Community • The UPS Store

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503 -69 0-2800 www.be th anyvillage.com Directions: From Hwy. 26 go North on Bethany Blvd. about 1.5 miles

scene

DOReen l WYnJA

hiGh five

Wine country’s hidden lodgings

tHe CHiC getAwAY: McMin-

64

nville’s erin Stephenson has always enjoyed staying in european pensioni when she travels, so she brought that sensibility to third Street Flats when she built these four stylish apartments, designed by four separate designers, on the second floor of a historic downtown building (and, speaking of europe, the only way up is by stairs). each unit has a full kitchen, private bath and utterly charming decor. A favorite is the Pied-à-Terre, a handsome one-bedroom getaway filled with comfy velour furniture, a chandelier hanging from an upholstered chain in the warm, gold-walled living room, and a queen bed in the blue bedroom. Across the street is the Willamette Valley Vineyards Wine Center, and within a few blocks are top-notch restaurants such as Thistle and Bistro Maison, and several more wine bars and tasting rooms. $165/night.

219 N.E. Cowls St., McMinnville; 503-857-6248; thirdstreetflats.com

tHe big SeCRet: it starts to sink

in when proprietor Mike Sweeney of Cherry Hill winery says, for maybe the fifth time, “The important thing to remember here is that we’re not a lodging. We don’t rent rooms.” So, um, what exactly are those eight adorable log cabins doing on the grounds of Mike’s winery, way up in the eola hills? each cabin is comfortably appointed with a fireplace, a queen bed and a full kitchen, and on the grounds are a fire pit, a basketball hoop and endless views. “Those are cabins for our friends!” explains Mike. Certain

tHiRD StReet FLAtS / McMinnville

tHe PeRFeCt LOCAtiOn: it’s not

uncommon for visitors to resist leaving the idyllic wine town of Carlton.

With its three dozen wineries and tasting rooms, it’s like Disneyland for oenophiles. And after plowing through everything from Cana’s Feast Primitivo to Scott Paul Audrey Pinot noir, they often shouldn’t leave Carlton until sleeping it off. The solution lies in the little-known winery Lofts, right above Cielo Blu restaurant on Main Street in the thick of the action. The four loft apartments, with full kitchens, coffee service and a continental breakfast, were built by über-winemaker Ken Wright for friends and guests, and are available as nightly rentals. They’re spacious and comfortable with king beds and pull-outs, and handsomely furnished in leathers and wood.

Check-ins are handled at Wright’s Tyrus evan tasting room in the old railroad depot. $120-$180.

121 W. Main St., Carlton; 503-857-7010; vrbo.com

tHe ROMAntiC RetReAt: Throw

open the doors to the patio of the private Guest Suite at Red Ridge Farms, and you might quickly forget your plans to visit the host of top wineries up the street. Before you spreads a bucolic panorama of gorgeous vineyards, a wisteria arbor, the farm’s lavender beds and birch trees, and the olive trees that provide the fruit for Red Ridge’s hand-pressed olive oils (available in the gift shop downstairs).

The spacious, light-filled suite for two has a full kitchen with service for eight (for dinner parties on the patio), hardwood floors and queen bed with a thick duvet. if you need more room, a cabin on the property has the same country-elegant decor and sleeps four. if you can tear yourself away, wineries like Domaine Drouhin Oregon, DePonte Cellars and Winter’s Hill Vineyard are minutes away. $200 for the suite; $350 for the cabin.

5510 N.E. Breyman Orchards Road, Dayton; 503-864-8502; redridgefarms.com

ReD RiDge FARMS gUeSt SUite / Dundee

DOReen l WYnJA

— JiM GullO

county zoning ordinances, he continues, forbid the renting of lodgings but are sufficiently hazy on the subject of a winery offering accommodations to its “friends.” And becoming Mike’s friend only requires the purchase of any two cases of his Cherry Hill or Papillon pinot noirs. Just don’t call it a rental. Free.

7867 Crowley Road, Rickreall; 503-623-7867; cherryhillwinery.com

LA RAMbLA LOFt / McMinnville

lA RAMBlA lOFT

Sure, there are hotels, B&Bs, a resort or two and the usual chain lodgings in wine country. But thanks to a combination of entrepreneurship, need, recent renovations and cockeyed zoning, there are also a handful of cool places to lay one’s head (once one’s head is filled with wine) that are off the tourism radar.

How about a furnished apartment that looks like a Parisian pied-àterre? Or cozy cabin with a crackling fire way up in the hills? On Thanksgiving weekend more than 150 wineries in the Willamette Valley will open their doors for tastings, so there’s no better time to visit. And these places — three equipped with fully loaded kitchens — make a very tempting case for making a vacation out of it.

tHe PentHOUSe: until Septem-

ber, Kathy Stoller, the owner of the La Rambla Spanish restaurant on McMinnville’s hopping Third Street, had been living in the loft apartment above the restaurant that she had completely gutted and restored eight years ago. now she has moved out and is offering it as surely the most spacious, stylish lodging in wine country, a 2,000-square-foot penthouse with two bedrooms and two baths (it sleeps six).

The floors are teak, trim is mahogany, master suite has a jetted tub, and the kitchen is a gourmet fantasy of granite counters, twin ovens and stainless steel fridge. A handsome wooden dining room set seats eight for the gourmet dinners that you’ll whip up with items from the Harvest Fresh natural foods store across the street and wash down with wines you’ll spirit home from the dozens of wineries in the area. $300$350, with a two-night minimum.

238 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-435-2126; laramblaonthird.com

Southern Oregon bonus! tHe CHARMeR: Want to get your

’30s thang on while exploring southern Oregon wineries? Rogue River Lodge, on the way to Crater lake, just this fall opened its first stand-alone cottage, renovating a cabin alongside the river that dates back to 1936.

Owners Anne and lee Kimball went to extraordinary pains to make it historically accurate, right down to the square, cast-iron 1937 bathtub, the push-button light switches, retrofitted icebox and antique toaster (and no television). The kitchenette cabin sleeps four with a queen bed and double futon, and you can cast your fly rod from the porch. The main lodge has two restaurants, and breakfast is included in the cabin rental. Crater lake Cellars is only a few minutes away, and farther afield are Folin Cellars, Del Rio Vineyards and the tasting rooms of Jacksonville and Medford. $150.

24904 Highway 62, Trail; 541-878-2555; therogueriverlodge.com £

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