MIX Magazine September 2011

September p 2011 Portland’s Magazine g of Food + Drink

The beauty of mezcal, growing beer 5 great wines from South America Fave new carts, veggie burgers and BBQ

SEPTEMBER 2011

MIXPDX.COM

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Good and Plenty

Feasting on seafood Southern style / p22 Urban backyards brimming with vegetables — and livestock / p30 Harvest recipes from some of our favorite chefs / p39

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editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s note For students, September is perhaps the most dreaded month. Back to school, back to the grind. But for cooks, especially here in the Northwest, September is the month weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been waiting for. Finally, everything we love most is in season â&#x20AC;&#x201D; all at the same time. Corn, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and beans. Oh, and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the peaches and plums and berries. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s almost too much. Where do we begin?

Actually, you can start with this issue.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve jampacked it full of recipes to use up all that good stuff youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeing at the farmers market, and likely in your own yard or balcony, too. From our little fig â&#x20AC;&#x153;recipe-letsâ&#x20AC;? in Starters, to the gorgeous harvest recipes from five Want to be sure you local chefs, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get every issue of MIX? find plenty of ideas Subscribe! to put late sum10 issues, $20 merâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s produce to Go to mixpdx.com good use. or call 503-221-8240.

And to encourage

4

you to share all that good stuff with friends, we have Tricia Butlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finger-lickinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Lowcountry Boil. Packed with corn on the cob, sausage links, crab legs and peel-and-eat shrimp, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most delicious way to get your hands dirty.

Of course, there are dozens more tasty reasons to crack open this issue, from brewers growing their own beer to families raising animals for their own meat. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot going on this time of year, so turn the page and get inspired.

Danielle Centoni, editor dcentoni@oregonian.com PHOTOGRAPH BY MIKE DAVIS

Allow us to dazzle you with an heirloom jewelry collection of exquisite proportion and a nice bit of history to go with it.

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SePt. 2011 22 Get toGether:

loWCountry boil Tricia Butler of Sassafras Catering puts on a corn-and-shrimp-loaded Carolina-style feast.

30 barnyardS to

baCkyardS  Three city-dwelling families take their urban farms to the next level.

PhOTOGRAPh BY jAMie FRANCiS

39 our Favorite

SeaSon Fabulous recipes to celebrate the dizzying array of late-summer produce.

in every iSSue 13 StarterS Figs five ways, the best lemon tart, hotdogs ’n’ hammers, dream day of carts 19 MixMaSter Mezcal’s bad-boy rep is a thing of the past

49 Walkabout North by Northwest: Discover 23rd Avenue’s wellcurated quirks 53 Good CheeSe Gabietou puts the flavor of spring on the fall table

57 Five WineS Andina’s Ken Collura shares his top picks for South American wines with a dish to match

61 PubCraWl Rogue Ales brings Oregon terroir to beer

65 eat here The Dalles — an ideal spot for wine tasting

76 hiGh Five Veggie burgers even a meat-eater will love

69 SCene Reviews of Clarklewis and Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty, plus 10 great BBQ joints

ON The COVeR: To a cook’s eye (and nose and palate), no bouquet of flowers can compare with one of purple-flowering Thai basil.

PhOTOGRAPh BY BeTh NAKAMURA

Mix is 10 issues a year! it’s easy to subscribe online — go to MixPdx.CoM and click on “subscribe.” you can also find past articles, restaurant reviews and all our recipes at mixpdx.com, so get clicking and start eating.

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contributors

tricia Butler, author of our Get Together story â&#x20AC;&#x153;Lowcountry Boilâ&#x20AC;?

(Page 22), is a fourth-generation Southerner and hails from a large family of restaurateurs. Her first job was in her familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine and cheese shop, where she cultivated her love for good food. After working for multiple restaurants and caterers through the years, Butler struck out on her own, launching Sassafras Catering in Portland |in 2008. In 2010, she started Sassafras Southern Kitchen, selling artisan relishes, chutneys and preserves at gourmet shops and online. You can read all about it at sassafrascatering.com and sassafrassouthernkitchen.com.

camas davis, who wrote our story on Portland families raising livestock in their backyards (Page 30), has been an editor and writer for such magazines as National Geographic Adventure, Saveur and Portland Monthly. She recently took a major detour in her career path to study butchery in France.

Upon her return, she founded the Portland Meat Collective, a traveling butchery school that teaches professional and home cooks how to slaughter animals and butcher whole carcasses bought directly from small local farmers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;So many of my students talk about wanting to raise their own meat in their backyard, so they can really own the entire process of getting meat to their table,â&#x20AC;? Davis says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why I was interested in writing this story, to find out how challenging it is to take that next step towards truly local eating.â&#x20AC;?

As it turns out, the families Davis talked to make it sound rather easy.

8

Photographer Jamie francis is on a quest to discover every inch of Oregon, one backyard at a time.

For this issue, he photographed three families taking on the challenges of urban homesteading (Page 30). He has been at The Oregonian for seven years and also worked at newspapers in St. Petersburg, Fla.; Columbia, S.C.; and Norfolk, Va. Francis lives in Portland with Pamela, Lily, Rafe, Halloween, Nighttime, Bandit, Alice, Pearl and Yugi.

Photographer Brian feulner has a degree in photography from the Rochester Institute of Technology and has worked at several papers throughout the country, including The Oregonian. For this issue of MIX, he documented Tricia Butlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lowcountry Boil (Page 22) and captured the essence of The Dalles for Eat Here (Page 65). â&#x20AC;&#x153;The residents of The Dalles seem to love their home, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see why,â&#x20AC;? Feulner says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In one small city there are vineyard views that seem straight out of Napa and Sonoma. The town is riddled with Old West history and the always-pulsing Columbia River is right there, offering endless water recreation.â&#x20AC;?

Other COntributing Writers: Lucy Burningham , grant ButLer, matthew card, pauL cLarke, katherine coLe, Jennifer cossey, sasha daVies, amanda eckerson, John foyston, ashLey gartLand, susan g. hauser, deena prichep, keLLy rodgers, michaeL c. Zusman Other COntributing PhOtOgraPhers/illustratOrs: doug BeghteL, mike daVis, Bruce eLy, ross wiLLiam hamiLton, martha hoLmBerg, Beth nakamura, motoya nakamura, tyLer tJomsLand

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where to find the reCiPeS in thiS iSSUe: AppeTizerS • Boiled peanuts, p26 • Butter Bean Hummus, p28 • pimento Cheese, p26 MAin DiSHeS: • Grilled Lamb Kebabs With Figs and pomegranate Molasses, p13 • Lowcountry Boil, p27 • pork Chops With Figs and Balsamic Vinegar, p13 • Sautéed Halibut With Wilted Spinach and Tomato Dressing, p46 • Sweet Corn, Tomato and

The Overlook Motel The Overlook is a cozy, Scandinavian style cliff-house. This collection of charming individual apartments is nestled on a bluff with spectacular, panoramic views of the ocean and miles of sandy beach. Each unit is individually owned by families who have opened their homes for you to enjoy. With the beautiful beach down the stairs or roadway, the Overlook is your home to relax and enjoy.

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pancetta risotto with Maple Gastrique, p44

Silverwood Theme Park Jump in the car for a short drive to Silverwood, the northwest’s largest theme park, a place filled with fun and excitement for everyone! Gigantic steel & massive wooden roller coasters, raft rides, a skyscraping drop tower, oceans of wave pools, slides & a laid back lazy river. Just north of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho on Hwy. 95.

1-208-683-3400 SilverwoodThemePark.com

10

SiDeS • Apple Cabbage Slaw, p28 • Black-eyed pea Salad, p27 • Broiled Figs With Gorgonzola, Walnuts and Arugula, p13

• Chanterelle, Blackberry and romano Bean Salad,

p44 • Figs With Sautéed Spinach, Fennel and Goat Cheese, p13 • Squash and Cherry Tomato Carpaccio, p44 DeSSerTS: • Grilled peaches With Marsala ice Cream, p46 • roasted Figs With Whipped Mascarpone, p13 • Upside-Down Berry Cobbler, p29 ConDiMenTS: • Lemony Cocktail Sauce, p27 DrinKS: • Arnold palmers, p29 • B&B (Bourbon and Blenheim), p29

Online extras at mixPdx.Com: • Find out where to buy our September wine picks • Mix up a High Desert Swizzle and Moral Disorder cocktail • Try Andina chef Hank Costello’s recipe for Tiradito de Beterraga • Learn how to make your own soft pretzels • Get pairing tips for matching your favorite barbecue with wine

Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier The perfect little Mt. Rainier resort, tucked in the national forest. Miles of hike/bike trails from your door. Explore all day, then swim in our pool, soak in our hot tub, or come to a bbq, bonfire or Rainier program. Charming suites & romantic honeymoon log cabin.

800-277-6475 www.altacrystalresort.com

Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center Located in the heart of Walla Walla’s wine country, the Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center is Walla Walla’s leading hotel and restaurant.

Enjoy a romantic escape to comfort and tradition with beautifully appointed rooms, unforgettable seasonal cuisine and a wonderful selection of area wines. Exceptional guest experiences for every guest!

1-866-826-9422 www.marcuswhitmanotel.com

• Cook up our bonus recipes for Grilled Grape Leaves Stuffed With Gold plums and Goat Cheese; Tomato, Gypsy pepper and egg Crostone (above); and Brown Sugar Buttermilk ice Cream

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VOLUME 5 / ISSUE 7

mixpdx.com DANIELLE CENTONI / EDITOR

dcentoni@oregonian.com

LINDA SHANKWEILER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR

lshankweiler@oregonian.com REED DARMON / DESIGNER

rdarmon@oregonian.com

WALLY BENSON, COLIN pOWERS, AMY REIfENRATH / COPY EDITORS ADVERTISING STEvE uRBAN / MIX ADVERTISING MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 DENICE WILLIAMS / RETAIL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR dwilliams@oregonian.com, 503-221-8514 DEBI WALERY / DIRECTOR, NATIONAL AND MAJOR ACCOUNTS dwalery@oregonian.com, 503-221-8302 RYAN COuRTNEY / CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING DIRECTOR rcourtney@oregonian.com, 503-221-8329 CHuCK SpITTAL / PRODUCTION COORDINATOR cspittal@oregonian.com, 503-294-4110 TO ADVERTISE STEvE uRBAN / MIX ADVERTISING MANAGER surban@oregonian.com, 503-221-8314 TO SUBSCRIBE: GO TO MIXpDX.COM OR CALL 503-221-8240 OR wRITE OREgONIAN puBLISHINg COMpANY

Attn: Circulation Dept./MIX Magazine 1320 S.w. Broadway, Portland, OR 97201

12

CIRCULATION hOTLINE 503-221-8240 A publication of Oregonian Publishing Co.

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starters

Page 14: Best new carts for every meal of the day Page 16: sweet tarts, locally grown smoke Page 18: Hot dogs and hardware, boozy movie

5 uses for fresh figs They’re exotic-looking beauties with an incomparable rich, sweet flavor that goes with almost anything, from dinner to dessert. But how many times have you spotted a basket of fresh figs at the market and thought, “Hmm. …” Sure, you know they’re great in salads, but what else can you do with them? Plenty, in fact, and we have five mini recipes to prove it. Fig season comes around twice a year — in late spring and fall — but each season is as fleeting as figs themselves. Don’t miss out.

1

Pork Chops With Figs and Balsamic Vinegar

Season 4 thick, center-cut, bone-in pork chops with kosher salt and coarseground pepper. Brown evenly in oiled hot skillet, then transfer to 400-degree oven and cook until just medium-rare, about 130 degrees; remove to platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Meanwhile, season 12 halved figs with salt and a pinch of sugar, then brown cut-side down in skillet in which pork was cooked. Transfer to plate, add ¾ cup balsamic vinegar, chopped fresh thyme, large pinch brown sugar and 2 bay leaves to skillet and simmer until balsamic is reduced to thick glaze. Whisk in 2 tablespoons butter and serve drizzled over pork and figs.

2

Figs With Sautéed Spinach, Fennel and goat Cheese

Sauté thin-sliced fennel bulb, pinch fennel seed and pinch red pepper flakes in hot skillet in extra-virgin olive oil until tender and lightly browned. Increase heat to high and add large bunch spinach and large pinch salt. Using tongs, mix spinach with fennel and cook until just wilted (drain off any excess liquid). Fold in quartered figs, spritz with lemon juice and serve topped with crumbled goat cheese (Cypress Grove Purple Haze is particularly fitting).

3

Broiled Figs With gorgonzola, Walnuts and arugula

Lightly sprinkle 12 halved figs with sugar and kosher salt; broil as close as possible to element until lightly browned and soft, 3 to 7 minutes. Dress large bunch arugula in vinaigrette of lemon and extra-virgin olive oil. Toss greens with vinaigrette, toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola. Serve with figs on top.

4

Roasted Figs With Whipped Mascarpone

Crowd figs in small roasting pan or cast-iron skillet, inserting 2 or 3 cinnamon sticks between figs, and drizzle liberally with mild-flavored honey. Roast in 475-degree oven until soft and lightly browned, 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whip to soft peaks two parts heavy cream to one part mascarpone cheese, splash vanilla, brown sugar to taste and a pinch of salt. Transfer figs to serving platter, spooning any juices over figs; serve with whipped mascarpone and nut biscotti.

5 grilled Lamb Kebabs With Figs and Pomegranate Molasses

Season 2 pounds of trimmed and cubed lamb leg or shoulder with a liberal amount of kosher salt, pepper, coarsely crushed cumin seeds and large pinch Aleppo pepper (optional). Drizzle with pomegranate molasses and extra-virgin olive oil to coat. Skewer with halved or whole figs and grill over hot fire until lightly browned and medium rare. Serve with whole-fat yogurt flavored with mint, minced garlic, salt and pepper.

— Recipes by Matthew Card

PHoToGRAPH By MARTHA HoLMBeRG

13

starterscont.

to do

Flogene’s

September SePt. 1

The art of eating It’s the last First thursday art walk of the summer, which means Portland’s Pearl District will likely be swarming with street performers, art enthusiasts and gallery hoppers. After seeing the paintings and sculptures, stop by swanky Bluehour for drinks and to check out the food from new chef Thomas Boyce, a Southern California chef who cooked for Wolfgang Puck and who takes over Bluehour’s kitchen after chef Kenny Giambalvo’s decade-long run. padaoregon.org bluehouronline.com SePt. 4

Munching the Day Away

All in the family Sunday suppers are such a great way to celebrate the end of one week and gear up for the start of a new one. except for all those dirty dishes. Skip the cleanup and attend a French-themed Sunday table dinner at Brasserie Montmartre. Seven courses served family style — with pairings! — cost just $39 per person. September’s theme is the Basque region. Future dinners include Bretagne on oct. 2, Champagne on Nov. 6 and Normandy on Dec. 4. brasserieportland.com

14

It’s been more than a year since Kelly Roy and I wrote “Cartopia: Portland’s Food Cart Revolution,” and almost a full year since the book hit stores last November. Since then, some 70 new carts have opened in our fair city, with more on the way. Surrounded by so many choices, where does a cartivore begin? With breakfast, actually. I recently visited the freshest crop of new carts and put together a dream day of food-cart dining, to help you navigate the burgeoning world of street vending from dawn to dusk. — KeLLy RoDGeRS

BReaKFaSt: Although they have already squeaked past the one-year mark, it’s hard to beat the breakfast tacos at Pepper Box (Dreamer’s Marketplace: 2737 N.e. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.). Handmade flour tortillas elevate them far above the common taco, and fillings such as cage-free eggs, chorizo, Tillamook cheese and New Mexican-style red and green chile sauces put them solidly in “breakfast of champions” territory.

LuNCh: Food carts face their stiffest competition at

SePt. 8-18

Art with a side of good eating The time-Based art Festival returns for its ninth edition, and for the third year in a row, a lot of performances and latenight action are happening at the east side’s Washington High School. Nearby, there are plenty of great places to eat, such as the Italian kitchen Nostrana, sandwich superstars Meat Cheese Bread, and the vegan spots Sweetpea Baking Company and the Red and Black Cafe — all no more than a block from PICA’s party central. pica.org/tba nostrana.com meatcheesebread.com sweetpeabaking.com redandblackcafe.com

more to do

lunch, so it’s no small accomplishment that Flogene’s (Southwest Ninth and Alder) stands out as a new favorite.

This is fried chicken as it was meant to be: moist and tender inside, crispy skin outside, with beautifully balanced flavors overall. Having grown up in Tennessee, I’m a sucker for a good biscuit, and Flogene’s buttery creation transports me to a nostalgic world of sweet tea, thunderstorms and fireflies.

SNaCK: The cupcake trend has already peaked, but that doesn’t mean we don’t still want to eat them — lots of them. hungry heart Cupcakes seeks to reinvent the cupcake as we know it, with versions such as the “pancake cupcake” made with bourbon-apple filling, maple frosting and garnished with applewood-smoked bacon bits.

Looking for something lighter? Try the butternut squash

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mini-cupcake with sage vanilla frosting. Traditionalists will love the dark chocolate mini-cupcake with cacao nibs, dulce de leche frosting and Maldon sea salt. Hungry Heart Cupcakes is of the few truly mobile food carts in town, so follow it on Twitter (@Hhcupcakes) or Facebook to find it.

DiNNeR: When Kevin Sandri started serving burgers at his acclaimed Italian street food cart Garden State, people couldn’t get enough. So he opened another cart dedicated to burgers alone. Burgatroyd (Mississippi Marketplace: 4233 N. Mississippi Ave.) serves juicy 1⁄4-pound burgers and an array of sophisticated toppings, so you can build your own masterpiece. Think pickled beets, caramelized onions, sunchoke relish, pancetta and house-made Calabrian chile aioli.

Late Night: When the bars empty, head over to Coon-

hound Crepes (3423 S.e. Belmont St). Nestled between two buildings, this food cart alley houses six carts that cater to the after-hours crowd. you can get your savory fix here, with inventive crepes like the Crispy Wasabi Shrimp and Chicken Tomato Bisque. For those of us with a sweet tooth, try the Bananas Foster, Pumpkin Pie, or a Frozen Hazelnut Cream and Banana. They even have buckwheat crepes for the gluten-intolerant.

PHoToGRAPHy By RoSS WILLIAM HAMILToN

more cart-liciousness Paige Common, a 23-year-old Montessori teacher in search of raw food her students (and wallet) would like, turned her kitchen experiments into a bicycle-powered-business, eatin’ Alive, peddling readymade raw sweets, salads, pâtés and pestos at the King Farmers Market. Her Kickin’ Carrot Cake layers fresh carrot and ginger with fluffy cashew frosting that makes any cream-cheese-loving mouth drop in approval. Bikers swear by her Trailmix Bites, mini mounds of raw energy packed with coconut, almonds and raisins that make the perfect midcommute pick-me-up. Her Wildcrafted Dandelion Pesto adds a bittersweet zing to salmon, and the Sunnyseed Pâté, bursting with the protein power of sunflower seeds, is just asking to be spread on a good-morning bagel. eatin’ Alive is delicious proof that there’s a little bit of raw for everyone — to take home, mix up or eat straight out of the Mason jar. — AMANDA eCKeRSoN Check out the Eatin’ Alive bike cart at the King Farmers Market on Sundays; eatinalivepdx.com.

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starterscont. to do cont.

SePt. 10

Bites on Belmont Two bustling blocks of Southeast Belmont Street get blocked off for the afternoon-long Belmont Street Fair, which includes plenty of late-summer treats like ice cream, cupcakes and iced coffee drinks. belmontdistrict.org

SePt. 10-11

Wild, wild West Pristine seafood is part of the West’s culinary identity, and there’s no better time to learn what can be done with the Pacific’s bounty than during the Newport Wild Seafood Weekend. In addition to cooking demonstrations and the opportunity to taste unique dishes, the weekend culminates with a seafood cook-off featuring professional and amateur cooks using the best ingredients from the catch of the day. newportfishermenswives.com SePt. 10-11

More pinot, please More than 100 Willamette Valley wineries converge on a single Pearl District 16 16 block for Pinot in the City, a two-day event with different wineries featured each day. In addition to tasting pinot noir, there will be food samples from Portland restaurants and demonstrations on the art of winemaking. willamettewines.com/events/ pinot-in-the-city SePt. 11-13

Tickled Pink!

Performances by Portland’s popular Pink Martini with the Oregon Symphony are anything but a rarity, but this year’s collaborative concerts promise a few twists. Lead singer China Forbes has been sidelined with vocal troubles, and a changing roster of guests singers like Storm Large and Lucy Woodward are filling in for her, changing the dynamic and vocal interpretation of familiar songs. This is sure to be Pink Martini as you’ve never heard them before. If the concert inspires you to enjoy a martini or two, check out the beautiful bar at Ruth’s Chris Steak House, which just relocated its Portland spot one block north of the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall. orsymphony.org ruthschris.com

more to do

eat tHis lemon tarts The oregon Shakespeare Festival is still going strong. And, really, Ashland in the fall? Gorgeous. But in case you need another reason to justify a road trip down south, Ashland’s Mix Bakery has it: the best lemon tart in the world. yes, that’s a mighty big claim, and yes, that’s just my not-so-humble opinion (and, no, the bakery’s name has nothing to do with it).

But I assure all you lemonheads out there that you won’t be disappointed. The buttery, crispy shortbread tart shell holds a bright, tart, silky-rich pool of lemon curd. It’s a perfectly executed combo, but what sets the tart apart is its toasty beehive cap that’s lusciously marshmallowy rather than spongy and meringuey. It’s a brilliant change from the usual, and paired with a perfectly pulled shot of Stumptown espresso, reason enough to make the five-hour drive. — DANIeLLe CeNToNI Mix Bakery: 57 N. Main St., Ashland; 541-488-9885 PHoToGRAPH By TyLeR TJoMSLAND

read tHis “can it, Bottle it, smoke it” When we joined the tide of hip, DIy-ers and started putting up preserves and pickles years ago, our kitchen manual of choice was undoubtedly Karen Solomon’s instructive and amusing “Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It” (Ten Speed Press, $24.95). With the release of her highly anticipated follow-up, “Can It, Bottle It, Smoke It” (Ten Speed Press, $24.99), Solomon invites us back into her crafty kitchen to tinker with 75-plus recipes for handmade condiments, cereals, snacks and more. Solomon has sensibly included projects for all levels of food-crafting enthusiasts, from simple recipes for homemade vanilla extract and chewy soft pretzels to more involved projects such as chipotles in adobo sauce.

If you’re the sort of cook who fancies smoking your own cheese, making your own coconut milk or roasting your own cacao nibs, Solomon will teach you how to master each skill with recipes that showcase her food crafting wisdom and engaging wit. — ASHLey GARTLAND

 online eXtra: Get karen solomon’s recipe for soft pretzels at miXpdX.com

Buy tHis alder cHips We oregonians can go to some pretty extreme lengths to ensure that the meats and vegetables we eat come from local, sustainable farms. So why are we grilling them over wood trucked in from Canada? Andrew Haden founded ernie’s Alder along with his mother and brother, harvesting Forest Stewardship Council-certified red alder from a forest in the Coast Range that his grandpa ernie bought in the 1930s.

The smoldering chips give food a smoky-sweet flavor, making your backyard grill seem more like a backcountry cookout — with a distinctly oregon flair. —DeeNA PRICHeP Ernie’s Alder chips are $7.99 for about 1¼ pounds at Newman’s Seafood at City Market, and Chop Butchery on North Williams.

O’Conner’s Restaurant

Peggy Sunday’s

The Jealous Gardener

Dozens off eclectic D l ti shops, h b boutiques, ti fine artt galleries, ll i wine i ttasting ti rooms and d ttop-rated t d restaurants. t t

Annastasia Salon | Annie Bloom’s Books | Birdie’s Teas, Cards & Gifts | Down to Earth Café | Fat City Café | Healthy Pets Northwest Indigo Traders | Jacqueline’s Found & Fabulous | Jones & Jones Jewelers | Jules of Morocco Clothing | Knack | Marco’s Café Multnomah Antiques | Multnomah Arts Center | O’Connor’s Restaurant | Otto & Anita’s Schnitzel Haus | Peggy Sunday’s SAID Interiors | Sip D’Vine | Sweets, Etc. | Switch Shoes & Clothing | The Jealous Gardener | The Village Hut | Thinker Toys

The Village in the Heart of Portland

Topanien Gifts | Village Beads | Village Frame & Gallery

Off I-5 on SW Capitol Hwy

multnomahvillage.org Photos by: Bob Kimball

starterscont. eat Here cannon BeacH Hardware

Look for these shelf tags in your local grocery store marking these products.

hz d,/^ WZK h d dK ^hWWKZd ,/> Z E͛^ , >d,͊

2011 Miracle Aisles participating products:

18

7Up Angel Soft, MD, QNBT & QNBT Ultra Plush Bath Tissue Aquaphor Lip Repair Arrowhead Mountain Spring Water Atta Boy Dry Dog Food and Atta Cat Dry Cat Food Chinet Classico Pasta Sauce Clorox Disinfecting Wipes Colgate Toothbrushes Columbia Crest Grand Estates Darigold Cottage Cheese Darigold Sour Cream Del Monte Canned Fruit Delsym Cough Suppressant Dreyer’s Grand Ice Cream Energizer Batteries Florida’s Natural Refrigerated Juice Foster Farms Franz Wide Pan Breads Full Sail and Session Lager Gatorade Gerber Baby Food Glad Trash Bags Green Mt. Coffee Heineken & Heineken Light Hidden Valley Ranch King Arthur Flour Land O’ Frost DeliShaved Lunchmeat Langers Juice Litehouse Salad Dressing M&M’s Miller Lite and Coors Light Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Black Butte Porter Mission Tortilla Chips and Salsas Monster Energy Newman’s Own Frozen Pizza Newman’s Own Lemonade Newman’s Own Pasta Sauce Newman’s Own Popcorn Newman’s Own Salad Dressing Newman’s Own Salsa

Nivea Lip Care Perrier Red Bull Red Vine Licorice Reser’s Don Pancho Corn and Flour Tortillas Rocher Chocolate Seventh Generation Liquid Laundry Detergent Simply Potatoes Hashbrowns Snapple SoBe LifeWater Special K Cereal Stash Premium Tea SunChips Tillamook Sliced Cheese Tillamook Yogurt Tully’s Coffee World Kitchens Jerky Buy products from these 2011 Miracle Aisles retailers: Food4Less Fred Meyer Haggen Food and Pharmacy Market of Choice Mega Foods Price Impact Price Less QFC Ray’s Food Place Roth’s Fresh Markets SPONSORED BY: Safeway Select Sentry Shop Smart Shop’n Kart Thriftway Zupan’s

Thank You for 24 Years of Helping Kids!

From September 1 through October 15, purchase products marked with Miracle Aisles shelf tags and you will be supporting companies that generously give to OHSU Doernbecher Children’s Hospital.

“I’ll take a dog with those dowels.” At Cannon Beach Hardware & Public House, that’s not an unreasonable request, along with, “Give me a sausage with that screwdriver.”

This 11⁄2-year-old man-store combining tools, beer and hot dogs is a stroke of genius inspired by the travels of owner Ryan Dewey’s dad, Craig Dewey, who found food and libations in a hardware store in Dingle, Ireland, and passed the idea on to his son. Now amid the tools and nails you’ll find craft beer on tap, all-beef franks ($5) and sausages ($7) ranging from kielbasa to double-smoked bacon to jalapeño cheddar. Most diners opt for traditional toppings of onions, sauerkraut and relish, but artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and six varieties of cheese await the adventurous. Dewey hired Western Culinary Institute grad Dave Bonnett to give a gourmet touch to the dogs and links. Dewey’s personal favorite: jalapeño-cheddar sausage with cream cheese and sliced jalapeños. —SUSAN G. HAUSeR Cannon Beach Hardware & Public House, 1235 S. Hemlock St., 503-436-4086; cannonbeachhardware.com

watcH tHis ken Burns’ “proHiBition” There’s a reason why mixologists in Portland — and the rest of the country — are obsessed with pre-Prohibition cocktails. Before the Volstead Act, cocktails were an artform and big city bartenders were overflowing with innovative and creative ideas. In 1919, the tap was shut off, and when Prohibition was finally repealed in 1933, the cocktail scene never made a full recovery — until now. Prohibition did so much more than criminalize alcohol. It changed society in deep, lasting ways — and we’re still feeling its effects.

Find out the fascinating facts and dirty details in Ken Burns’ new three-part documentary, “Prohibition,” which airs oct. 2, 3 and 4 on oPB. Check opb.org for times. —DANIeLLe CeNToNI PHoToGRAPH: JoHN BINDeR CoLLeCTIoN

to do cont.

SePt. 15-18

“Do-Re-Mi“ Mt. Angel’s annual Oktoberfest has 45 years worth of longstanding traditions, from a beer garden to the umpteenth rendition of “The Chicken Dance.” The fall festival is keeping up to date, too — recent years have featured flash mobs dancing to songs from “The Sound of Music.” oktoberfest.org SePt. 17

Walk, sip, eat Celebrate the start of the fall grape harvest with Patton Valley Vineyards’ harvest hike and Lunch. you’ll walk through the vines of the Gaston winery, where you’ll learn about grape growing techniques and sip wine along the way. Then you’ll feast on a catered lunch featuring special wines. pattonvalley.com £

mixmaster

19

[ Mezcal gets a prime spot behind the bar ]

BY Paul clarke

f the last time you tried mezcal was during college, when the rustic Mexican spirit helped fuel sunburned spring break shenanigans that you’d rather forget, we should get this out of the way at the start: Don’t worry about the worm.

True, some coarser, cheaper versions of this close relative of tequila still deploy a booze-bloated weevil in each bottle as a “do-you-dare” marketing gimmick. But recently, mezcal seems to have grown up and moved on. Today, small-batch artisanal mezcals are an increasingly familiar sight behind many of Portland’s best bars, and this earthy, engaging spirit is attracting drinkers who thirst more for gustatory excitement than for danger.

PHOTOGraPH (leFT) iSTOck, (rIGHT) MIke DaVIS

mixmaster cont.

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20

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manner little changed over the generations: agaves are usually slow-roasted in wood-fired pits, and distillers generally use copper or ceramic stills much like those introduced by the Spanish in the 1600s. The result is a spirit with immense diversity of flavor, ranging from delicately ethereal with a bright, floral aroma to smoky and earthy with an intense minerality.

Mezcal’s recent good fortune can be credited largely to ron cooper, a New Mexico-based artist who began importing small-batch, single-village mezcals in the 1990s. Today, cooper’s line of Del Maguey mezcals are prized as some of the best spirits in the bar. His single-village bottlings such as chichicapa, Minero and Tobala draw acclaim from bartenders kask bartender Tommy klus mixes and spirits aficionados — and have price tags to match the his High Dessert Swizzle with a genuine swizzle stick, just like the prestige — while his floral kind used in the caribbean where Mezcal Vida offers a more affordswizzles were born. as he rubs the able option for cocktails. “The stick between his hands, prongs at price point of the Del Magueys the end mix the drink into frothy, is higher,” says kask bartender frosty goodness. PHOTOGraPH BY Tommy klus, “but the flavors MOTOYa NakaMura are so unique that you only have Made for centuries in the Mexican state of Oaxaca (which still accounts for most mezcal production, though other states also are home to mezcal distilleries), mezcal is the country ancestor to the more cosmopolitan tequila. Both spirits are made from agave, but from there take different directions. Only one type of agave is allowed to be used for tequila, whereas mezcal can be made from many varieties of the plant. These varieties thrive in wildly different climates and geographic zones, which contributes an array of characteristics to the finished spirit. and though tequila is manufactured on an industrial scale, much mezcal is produced in a

to add a quarter ounce and the characteristics will still stand up to the other ingredients. Sometimes I even use an atomizer, so I can change the aromatics of the cocktail without changing whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the palate.â&#x20AC;?

More recently, Del Maguey has been joined on liquor-store shelves by mezcals such as the bombastically smoky Sombra; the delicately fruity line of spirits from Ilegal; and the mellow and approachable Fidencio.

With mezcalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diversity of flavor, Portland bartenders have increasingly been reaching for the spirit to lend a distinctive, often smoky, hit to cocktails. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One sip takes you right up into the hills outside Oaxaca,â&#x20AC;? says klus, who combines the smokiness of mezcal with a tart-sweet strawberry shrub

ONLINE Extra: Get the recipe for tommy Klusâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; High Dessert swizzle (top) and Kyle Websterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moral Disorder at

mixpDx.com

for his High Desert Swizzle. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This terroir comes through not only when sipping, but also in the cocktails.â&#x20AC;? at the Driftwood room at Hotel deluxe, bartender Mike robertson uses Del Maguey chichicapa in the Spaghetti Western, a lightly bitter, herbaceous drink that also includes tequila, aperol and simple syrup flavored with basil. In the Julepa de Menta served at Teardrop lounge, the tequilabased take on the mint julep is finished with a float of aromatic Del Maguey Vida. at St. Jack, bartender kyle Webster uses Sombra mezcal when making the Moral Disorder, a cocktail that includes tequila, orange liqueur and lime and grapefruit juices. Webster says the robust character of mezcal makes it especially appealing for cocktails. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mezcal has an intensity that no other spirit has,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing else that compares to it in terms of depth, complexity and power.â&#x20AC;? at Beaker & Flask, bartender Brandon Wise says he introduces mezcal newbies to the spirit through the delicate character of Fidencio. For those seeking a full-bore mezcal experience, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll serve a more assertively flavored mezcal such as Del Maguey Minero, or mix the end of Days, a cocktail that matches the floral flavor of a Peruvian pisco and a French herbal liqueur with the complex earthiness of chichicapa. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Portland has always pushed the boundaries a bit with cocktails,â&#x20AC;? Wise says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;and we like reaching for interesting spirits on the artisanal side.â&#x20AC;?

Far from the party-hearty associations many people may have for the spirit, mezcalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attracting a growing base of devotees who arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t shy about seeking out well-crafted brands of the once-dĂŠclassĂŠ spirit. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so much more going on, from the terroir of elevation to how the agave is roasted in the earth,â&#x20AC;? says klus. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what keeps it interesting for me. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a spirit you can sip, that gives you a sense of time and place.â&#x20AC;? ÂŁ

21

get together [ Lowcountry Boil ]

S

By TRICIA BuTLeR / Photography by BRIAN FeuLNeR

22

Tricia Butler, native Southerner and owner of Sassafras Catering, sets the table for her Lowcountry Boil. Although an afternoon shower prompted her to move the feast indoors, no one complained as they sat down to platters heaped with crab, kielbasa, corn, shrimp and potatoes.

outherners can find any excuse to gather around food and socialize, but for those who live near the coast in the Carolinas, there’s always seafood involved.

In winter, the traditional Oyster Roast rules the table. During the warmer months, there’s nothing better than a Lowcountry Boil.

A National Guardsman who wanted to feed 100 soldiers invented this one-pot dish. He combined what was most handy — shrimp, corn, potatoes, sausage and spices — and threw it into boiling water at different intervals to create an incredibly versatile meal. As long as you get the timing down, you can feed two or 200 by merely adjusting the amount of ingredients. It’s a great excuse to pull out the lawn chairs, sit in the backyard with friends and hope that the heat of summer will hang on for just a bit longer.

When planning events for Sassafras Catering, I work with amazing farmers to source Northwest ingredients. However, I don’t often get to focus on the Southern food of my childhood, so for a recent outdoor party, my team and I decided to go all out and make a proper Lowcountry Boil with all the trimmings.

The boil itself is open to interpretation — you can add and omit as you see fit — and it’s easy because you can prepare all of your ingredients in advance and throw them in the pot when you’re ready. If you have limited stove space or smaller stockpots, you can make the boil in batches, giving guests time to digest before digging into the next round.

In fact, one of the best parts about the Lowcountry Boil is how you can continuously graze on mounds of seafood that get delivered from the kitchen all afternoon. It’s tradition to just pile everything into the middle of a newspapercovered picnic table and let everyone dig in. It’s fun and makes cleanup a snap.

23

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Plus, cracking crab legs, peeling shrimp and eating corn on the cob loosens people up and encourages conversation. After all, at what other time do you get to eat with your hands and spill food all over the table?

To kick off the party we set out ample bowls of boiled peanuts â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a snack taken so seriously in the South, they can be found at every roadside stand throughout the Carolinas.

Filling and easy to make, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sometimes flavored with fresh jalapeĂąos or Cajun seasoning. We also whipped up a batch of butter bean hummus to serve with crostini and pita chips.

Butter beans are a staple in the South, and you can find them at most farmers markets. Since it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have tahini, our recipe is lighter than traditional hummus and has a summery brightness from lemon, lime and mint. We also made my sister Sloaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipe for pimento cheese, which she spent years formulating until she finally nailed the perfect combination of cheeses, peppers and mayo.

For sides, we chose a simple apple and green cabbage slaw, my riff on a 60-year-

old recipe from a restaurant one of my other sisters owned (I have six sisters, for the record). We also served a black-eyed pea salad made with balsamic vinegar, celery and red onion that can pass for a relish or a chunky dip for tortilla chips.

As for drinks, a cooler full of canned craft beers will do, but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m all about cocktails. My current favorite is a drink Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve fondly named the â&#x20AC;&#x153;B&B.â&#x20AC;? A blend of spicy Blenheim Ginger Ale (made in South Carolina) and Bulleit bourbon, it packs a punch, but if you like ginger as much as I do, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll love it. For our nondrinkers, we had pitchers of Arnold Palmers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a blend of equal parts iced tea and lemonade.

For dessert, we combined buttermilk and brown sugar to create a rich, almost toffee-like ice cream, which is just as delectable with the bright sweetness of fresh white and yellow peach slices as it is with our upside Down Berry Cobbler.

Sitting out in the yard with friends, sipping cocktails and eating with our hands â&#x20AC;&#x201D; I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think of a better way to finish out the summer and enter into the magnificently abundant season of fall.

The Timeline Two days before the party Shop for ingredients Make the ice cream base Soak the peanuts overnight Make the cocktail sauce One day before the party Make the pimento cheese and butter bean hummus Make the black-eyed pea salad Boil the peanuts Churn the ice cream The day of Purchase bread Make the cobbler Make crostini, assemble with pimento cheese and hummus Shuck the corn, break in half Cut the sausage, potatoes and peaches Make the slaw Right before guests arrive Fill the stockpot(s) with water, bring them to a boil Set out the appetizers Make a few drinks, including one for you When guests arrive Greet your guests Take photos Add the first round of ingredients to the boil (keep a timer on you) To serve each course Plate the slaw and black-eyed pea salad Continue to cook the boil and bring the hot food out in batches

Grills arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just for grilling. The expansive cooktop of the outdoor grill provides the perfect place to boil up a giant pot of seafood, corn, potatoes and sausage for a Lowcountry Boil. Glasses of Arnold Palmers (lemonade and iced tea) provide refreshment for those who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to get tipsy, while canned craft beers and bourbon and Blenheim cocktails are set out for those who do.

25

Boiled Peanuts Open: Wednesday-Sunday 4pm to 9pm

“100 Best Restaurants” – The Oregonian, Diner 2011

(360) 210-7028 • www.hearthwashougal.com 1700 Main, Suite 110 • Washougal Town Square Just off Hwy 14 • Underground Parking

Start with good quality raw peanuts (not roasted). About 2½ pounds will feed about 10 people. I buy mine online at NutsOnline.com. If they are raw, you will need to soak them in water overnight. If you are lucky enough to find green peanuts (they are fresher and must be refrigerated), you can skip the overnight soak, as the water content is higher. Boil the peanuts for 2½ to 3 hours with plenty of water and a large amount of salt — at least ½ cup for a large stockpot. They are best served hot right away, but can be drained, cooled and refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to one week or up to one month in the freezer.

— Tricia Butler, Sassafras Catering, Portland

Pimento Cheese 26

mAkeS ABouT 2 CuPS

Many people think they don’t like pimento cheese, but that’s because they’ve never had the good stuff. If you like cheese, you’ll love this recipe — it has converted many doubters into believers. It can be made one day ahead, but let it sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow it to soften. use it as a spread for crackers, crostini and sandwiches.

4 ounces cheddar cheese, grated 4 ounces Monterey jack cheese, grated ¼ cup (2 ounces) pimentos (with juice) 1 pickled jalapeño, finely chopped ¼ yellow onion, grated 1 tablespoon mayonnaise Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper Pulse the grated cheeses in a food processor until they’re in small pieces. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl and add the pimentos, jalapeños and onion. Add half the mayo at first, then gradually add more until the desired consistency is reached. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

— Sloane Cooper

 onLIne eXtrA: get Sassafras catering's

recipe for Buttermilk Brown Sugar Ice cream at mIXpdX.com

Black-eyed Pea Salad

Lowcountry Boil

ServeS 10

ServeS 10

Black-eyed pea salad is sometimes referred to as “Southern Caviar.” It’s best with fresh beans, and it can be made the day before. Depending on the freshness of the beans, they can take as little as 30 minutes to become tender, so check them early and often. For best results, chop and add the fresh parsley just before serving.

You can find great crab from Linda Brand Crab at area farmers markets.

Pacific Seafood, Newman’s Fish Market and New Seasons also have a great selection of seafood. Feel free to adjust the amounts to serve a larger or smaller crowd.

2 cups dried black-eyed peas, rinsed and picked over

½ cup Old Bay Seasoning

2 tablespoons celery salt ½ cup olive oil ½ cup balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon stone-ground mustard ½ cup small-dice red onion ½ cup medium-dice red pepper 1 cup medium-dice celery ½ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley 2 tablespoons kosher salt

Combine peas and celery salt in medium pot. Add water to cover by 2 inches and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and simmer until black-eyed peas are soft but not mushy, 30 minutes to 1½ hours.

Drain and cool.

In a large bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar and mustard. Stir in the onion, red pepper, celery, parsley, salt and pepper. Add the drained black-eyed peas and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary.

— Tricia Butler, Sassafras Catering, Portland

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Lemony Cocktail Sauce ServeS 10

This sauce has a great balance of spicy and sour. use it as a dipping sauce for the shrimp and crab. For optimum flavor, make it the day before and refrigerate overnight.

1 stalk celery 1 cup ketchup 1 cup Heinz chili sauce ⁄3 cup prepared horseradish

1

Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1½ tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

use a peeler to remove the long, tough outer strings from the celery. Finely dice the celery and add to a medium bowl along with the ketchup, chili sauce, horseradish, lemon zest and juice, Worcestershire sauce and pepper.

Whisk together and let sit for at least an hour before serving.

— Erin Meeker, Sassafras Catering, Portland

20 small new potatoes, about 1-inch diameter, rinsed but not peeled (about ¾ pound) 1 pound smoked kielbasa sausage, cut into ½-inch coins 2 medium Walla Walla sweet onions, quartered lengthwise 5 ears of fresh corn, shucked and cut in half 20 largest available fresh shrimp 4 whole crabs, quartered Accompaniments: soft butter, sea salt, lemon wedges and cocktail sauce Fill a 20-quart stockpot 2⁄3 of the way with water. Bring to a simmer. Add Old Bay and allow to simmer for a minute. Add potatoes, sausage and sweet onions, bring to a slow simmer and cook until potatoes are almost completely tender, about 15 to 18 minutes. Keeping water at a simmer, add corn and cook until kernels are slightly softened, about 3 minutes.

Add shrimp and crab, and cook until the shrimp becomes pink, about 5 or 6 minutes. Depending on the size of your shrimp, they may turn pink much quicker, so watch the pot. use a wire skimmer to remove the food from cooking liquid and transfer it to an oversize platter (the cooking liquid can be used over and over). Serve with crusty bread, soft butter, sea salt, lemon wedges and cocktail sauce.

— Sassafras Catering, Portland

27

get together cont.

Butter Bean Hummus mAkeS ABouT 3 CuPS

Fresh mint and citrus give this hummus its bright flavor. Pair it with pita chips or spread on crostini and garnish with a sprig of mint.

2 15-ounce cans butter beans or Great Northern beans, rinsed and drained ¼ cup fresh mint leaves ¼ cup fresh Italian parsley ¼ cup roughly chopped red onion or shallot

Apple Cabbage Slaw

Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lime

ServeS 10

¼ to ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper In the bowl of a food processor or blender, combine beans, mint, parsley, onion, lemon juice and lime juice. Blend until almost smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in ¼ cup of the oil, adding more if necessary until the desired consistency is reached.

You can make it slightly chunky or purée it until completely smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

— Erin Meeker, Sassafras Catering, Portland

I love using Granny Smith apples because their tart flavor goes with just about everything.

This tangy, sweet and refreshing slaw should be made the day you plan to serve it.

5 cups shredded green cabbage 2 Granny Smith apples, cut into small cubes 1 cup small-diced sweet onion Dressing: ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¾ cup mayonnaise Juice from 1 medium lemon

In a large bowl, mix the cabbage, apples and onion together. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mayonnaise and lemon juice.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the cabbage mixture and stir to combine.

— Tricia Butler, Sassafras Catering, Portland

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

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B&B (Bourbon and Blenheim) mAkeS 1 ServinG

Blenheim Ginger Ale is famous for being distinctively spicy.

Its ginger flavor can be a little strong, but paired with a good bourbon like Bulleit, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s superb.

Fill a rocks glass with ice.

Pour the bourbon over the ice and top with Spicy Blenheim Ginger Ale. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Tricia Butler, Sassafras Catering, Portland

2 ounces bourbon (I use Bulleit) Spicy Blenheim Ginger Ale Ice

Arnold Palmers

erin Meeker of Sassafras Catering says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I make my cobblers with the crust on the bottom. It's way easier to serve and I like having all the berries ontop where I can see them.â&#x20AC;? The cobbler is delicious with Meekerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Buttermilk Brown Sugar Ice Cream (see mixpdx.com), but if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re short on time, store-bought vanilla is great, too. Â?

Eilersen Jesper Nuevo BDI

Come see why there really

3 pounds fresh berries (Meeker uses a mix of blueberries and blackberries) 1 cup granulated sugar Zest and juice of one orange Â?

mAkeS 1 ServinG

Sweet tea is the norm in the South, but it can be a little too sweet for some. Instead, mix up a blend of black tea and sweetened lemonade for a sure-fire crowd-pleaser.

Feel free to substitute your favorite green, red or herbal tea in this recipe.

upside-Down Berry Cobbler

Camerich

4 ounces iced black tea, chilled 4 ounces lemonade Ice Fill a Collins glass with ice.

Pour iced tea and lemonade over the ice, stir and serve.

is no place like hip

2 heaping tablespoons cornstarch 3 cups all-purpose flour Â?

1 teaspoon salt Â?

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1 tablespoon granulated sugar Â?

1 tablespoon baking powder � ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes �

1½ cups buttermilk �

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Â?

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish.

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine berries, sugar, orange zest and orange juice.

Slowly bring to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle in cornstarch while stirring (to avoid clumps). Simmer mixture for 5 to 10 minutes or until it starts to thicken.

While berries are cooking, place flour, salt, sugar and baking powder in a large bowl. Stir with a fork until no lumps remain. Add butter and use your fingers to rub it into the flour mixture until it resembles fine sand. Add the buttermilk and mix until combined and very sticky. Drop the mixture in dollops into the baking dish, covering the bottom.

Pour the berry mixture over the crust and bake for 30 to 40 minutes. The cobbler is done when the berry mixture is thickened and the crust starts to peek through. Let sit for at least 15 minutes before serving. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;From Erin Meeker, Sassafras Catering, Portland

QZ W K 503.225.5017

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30

Backyard meets barnyard Three families share their stories of raising animals — from birds and bees to goats and rabbits — on their small urban lots By camas davis it’s one thing to be able to tell your dinner guests that the poached eggs and arugula in the salad they’re eating were harvested from your backyard chickens and garden. it’s another thing to fry up a couple of crispy, homegrown duck legs to go with it. For dessert? maybe panna cotta made with milk from your mini Lamancha goat, drizzled with honey produced by your backyard bees.

Nothing too fancy, just a regular gourmet meal from a not-so-regular urban farm — and something that’s becoming increasingly common among Portland’s more intrepid gardeners.

Yes, folks. around here, backyards aren’t just for vegetables and chickens any more. There’s a new generation of victory gardens in town, as a growing number of hardworking denizens are starting to turn their little, urban paradises of peas, potatoes and pullets into bona fide, multi-species urban farms that provide them with almost all the food they’ll need or want for the year. Families living in the middle of bustling urban centers and crowded residential neighborhoods — some with postage-stamp backyards — are finding ways to raise goats for milk, bees for honey and all manner of domesticated chickens, ducks, geese, rabbits and turkeys for meat.

We visited three very different urban homesteads whose owners are pushing the backyard farming envelope and reaping the delicious rewards. despite all that work, time and money — not to mention a few setbacks here and there — each family asserts that the barnyard lifestyle is worth it.

Fresh goat’s milk and honey, from the Tiret family’s backyard goats and bees in Southwest Portland, are just a couple of the rewards of urban homesteading, they say. For the children in the Vincent family in Milwaukie, raising their own animals for meat has taught them to be compassionate omnivores.

Photography by JamiE FRaNcis

31

The Tiret Household

An herbalist, an eco-entrepreneur and their two children take the leap from chickens to goats in their Southwest Portland backyard AnimAls: Eight hens, three goats, 150,000 bees FAmily: Two adults, two children lAnd: .25 acre

32

Bunches of dried herbs hang from the rafters in Tracey and Justin Tiret’s living room in southwest Portland. There’s lemon balm and chamomile, rosemary and anise hyssop.

Tracey, a trained herbalist, considers these herbs her family’s medicine chest. But the medicine she wants to talk about today is the gallon or so of raw milk the family’s goats provide each day. “i could never live without the goats.

They’ve been our true medicine chest, and they’ve given us such good nutrition. The kids have grown well on the milk. They’ve never been to the doctor, never had allergies and never been on antibiotics,” Tracey says.

“There’s this three-hour window after you milk a goat, when the milk is supposed to be really vital,” Tracey’s husband, Justin, tells me. “We had a really sick chicken once. she was all bunched up and her eyes were glued shut and stuff was coming out of them. so we gave her goat milk and kefir and she was fine.”

Tracey pours me a mug of fresh goat’s milk to taste and another of green tea mixed with honey they harvested from their colony of bees. The milk is thinner than cow’s milk, but it tastes creamy and lively nonetheless. The pleasantly bitter green tea is tinged with a vibrant, woodsy sweetness. saer, 5, and Giselle, 7, the Tiret’s two freckled, grinning children, come in and out of the sliding glass door to show off a tiny

black bantam hen, then a larger red hen, then a small blue egg, followed by a large, speckled brown egg.

On their quarter-acre of land, set in the middle of a quiet residential neighborhood just off Barbur Boulevard, the Tirets raise chickens, bees and goats, along with a couple of fruit trees and an ample vegetable garden. For the Tirets, the chickens and bees were easy. They tried ducks for eggs and raised rabbits for their fur (Tracey was into needle felting at the time), but a raccoon killed one duck, the other flew south and the rabbits proved to be too much work with two young children. it’s the goats, which they’ve raised for three years now, that changed the rhythm of their lives in a way they could ultimately appreciate.

“When you go from chickens and bees to goats, you are really taking a jump from backyard gardening to farming in the city.

You’re really committed to being on the land then,” Justin says.

“We have to milk them morning and night,” Tracey says. “and when we go out of town — if we go out of town — we have to have someone who knows how to milk them take care of them.”

Plus, in the Tirets’ experience, goats, for whatever reason, tend to alarm neighbors more than chickens or bees.

“We know three people who had goats but don’t anymore because their neighbors

complained about the smell or the noise,” Justin says. “it’s amazing that people are fine with the sounds of traffic, a barking dog, the trash man, but goats they just can’t handle,” Tracey adds.

The Tirets have avoided problems with their neighbors by getting mini Lamancha goats, which don’t make a lot of noise, and the family uses wood chips in amply sized pens, which successfully absorb pungent smells.

While the Tirets say they’d love to have more land — to start a goat co-op in which everyone comes to milk the goats and takes home a share of milk — they are happy “bushwhacking” their way through the learning curve here in the city.

“To be able to milk the goats and then go to the ballet is the best of both worlds,” Tracey says.

With some of their goat’s milk, the Tirets even started to make money to pay for those ballet tickets. They turn much of the milk into kefir, a cultured milk drink, and sell it to their private raw milk cooperative. “it feels more real now that we are selling the kefir,” Justin says. “i always said i wanted to be a farmer when i grow up. it’s a dream come true for us.”

Good medicine, indeed.

33

The vincent Household

A family of five in Milwaukie goes the whole nine yards to put meat on the table AnimAls: seven meat rabbits, four meat turkeys, 11 meat chickens, 34 egg-laying hens, five meat geese, nine egg-laying ducks, 15 meat ducks, one billy goat for meat and two milking goats FAmily: Two adults, three kids, five cats, three dogs, a pet snake, gerbils lAnd: .77 acre

34

stella moon vincent, a bright-eyed, blond 7-year-old is sitting cross-legged in the hay and the dirt, cradling a puffy, white Leghorn hen that’s just recovered from a broken spine. The hen’s name is Galadriel, after a character in “The Lord of the Rings,” a literary trilogy stella’s parents read to her and her two brothers when they were younger.

“Galadriel is my favorite,” stella tells me. “i took care of her when she broke her spine.” “so did our buck rabbit,” stella’s mom, Beka vincent, adds. “carl hadn’t shown any interest in making babies with our female rabbits, but when Galadriel showed up, he sure was interested in making babies with her.”

We walk over to carl’s domain, one of about six portions of the vincents’ ample backyard that they’ve separated with makeshift fencing they got off craigslist and Freecycle. “it’s because Galadriel couldn’t stand upright, so she looked like a rabbit to him,” stella says. it’s somewhat surprising that there isn’t more cross-species confusion going on at the Blue moon Urban Homestead, as Beka has dubbed her family’s little plot in the middle of a residential neighborhood in milwaukie, just a few blocks from a fourlane expressway. in addition to the seven rabbits and 45 chickens that the vincents are raising, they have geese, ducks, turkeys, goats, cats, dogs, a snake, a rotating cast of gerbils and a very healthy vegetable garden to tend. They also recently tried their hands at pigs, but due to one unhappy neighbor and a mysterious case of porcine poisoning, that particular attempt at self-sustainable homesteading didn’t end well.

Beka, 31, and her husband, Nick, 33, along with their three kids, stella, Jason, 9, and Josh, 11, raise the majority of their animals for meat, though they keep the pair of female goats for milk, and 34 of their hens and nine of their ducks for eggs. When those animals can no longer produce, the vincents will

consume them, as well.

“We probably sound like animal hoarders,” Beka exclaims. “But we’re not. We set out to raise all our own meat last year. i home-school my kids, and we watched a PETa video together about how chickens are raised in these horrible conditions.” “after that, we all decided together as a family to only eat meat that has had a good life,” Nick says. stella chimes in. “We don’t want them to be stuck in a cage, where they are only able to lay eggs but not move.”

But producing your own meat certainly comes with its own set of challenges, Beka says. While the family takes some of its animals to Harrington’s, a custom meat processor that will slaughter small farm animals for their owners, the vincents process a lot of the meat themselves.

“The first chicken we butchered was hard. Having raised them from day-old chicks and cared for them, you’re fighting the whole time against the statistical death rate of domesticated animals to get them to the butchering point, and then…”

Jason interrupts. “But we feed them beer so it numbs them.”

Then, stella: “if they’re happy when they die, their meat tastes better.”

“Because their muscles aren’t as tense,” Jason adds.

Family members get into a discussion about the difference in taste between 99 cents-per-pound store-bought chickens and their homegrown heritage variety. Then it’s on to the difference between their chicken

eggs and factory-farmed varieties. The vincents can’t quite articulate what exactly the difference in flavor is, but they’re sure there is one. a big one, they say. They’re also sure the work and money it takes to achieve that difference is worth it.

Josh is on the fence, however. “We had 120 animals at one point. it was hard for a while, a lot of work.” “cats and dogs take a lot more work than chickens do,” Nick counters. But Nick mentions that the cost of buying animal feed from local, organic sources can be expensive, especially considering the entire family lives on the salary Nick earns as an ink maker at Flint ink corp. in North Portland. “We live small and make hard choices,” Beka says.

But she has never doubted that this was the right thing for her family. “in addition to the food we get out of it, it’s been so wonderful for us. On any given weekend or weeknight, we’re outside pulling weeds, feeding the chickens, having conversations.

We’re not inside watching people on Tv living their lives. We’re actually living our lives.”

Of course, the vincents live in milwaukie, which has much more relaxed regulations when it comes to raising animals within city limits. and while the vincents’ .77 acre is mostly taken up by two homes, one detached garage, two driveways, one 10-by-10 barn and a small storage building, they’ve still got more space to work with than the majority of Portland’s city dwellers. so i ask the vincents whether they’d still raise animals for meat if they lived on a smaller lot in the middle of Portland. “definitely,” Beka says.

“We’d just have to rethink how many animals we raise, how many we slaughter at a time, but it’s totally doable.” Beka reaches out to pet Wyatt, their 13-yearold yellow lab. “Everyone should do this, no matter what scale they’re working with. it makes you a part of a community.”

“Especially when we take the goats for walks in the park!” stella adds.

“Everybody wants in on the action then,” Nick says.

Where to go for homesteading advice, supplies and classes all three of the families we talked to said raising animals in their backyards can sometimes be a lonely endeavor. “We’re all kind of tucked back into our yards, keeping quiet, trying not to make the neighbors angry,” Tracey Tiret says. But in the process of learning, they’ve all managed to find some helpful educational resources in Portland as well as opportunities for connecting with other people who are trying their hands at similar backyard experiments. The following are the main resources they told us about: Bee Thinking beethinking.com 1229 s.E. Nehalem st.

503-770-0233 The goods: Hand-built hives, beekeeping classes and books, apiary clothing and tools, general advice BureAu oF PlAnning And susTAinABiliTy: urBAn growTh BounTy clAsses portlandonline.com/bps/index. cfm?c=50648& food@portlandoregon.gov The goods: classes on beekeeping, gardening, raising animals, cheesemaking and more nAomi’s orgAnic FArm suPPly naomisorganic.blogspot.com (Note: As of press time, Naomi’s was trying to find a new location but still remains an online resource) The goods: Organic fertilizers, hay, compost, livestock feeds, chicken supplies, pet foods, gardening tools, books, workshops, farmer connections and sound advice PorTlAnd homesTeAd suPPly comPAny homesteadsupplyco.com 8012 s.E. 13th ave.

503-233-5681 The goods: Feed for chickens, rabbits, ducks and goats, canning supplies, soapand candle-making supplies, garden tools, urban homesteading advice, classes, events, gatherings ruhl Bee suPPly ruhlbeesupply.com 17845 s.E. 82nd drive, Gladstone 503-657-5399 The goods: Beehives, books, beekeeping tools, gifts, candle-making kits, starter scolonies, general advice, classes, clothing urBAn FArm sTore urbanfarmstore.com 2100 s.E. Belmont st.

503-234-7733 The goods: classes and supplies for keeping chickens, gardening and food preservation, live chicks and chicken coops, beekeeping supplies

35

The Wilson and Kasper Household Wilson A very urban couple in inner Southeast keep it simple with birds and bees AnimAls: Nine hens and 10,000 bees The FAmily: Two adults, two dogs The lAnd: .10 acre

For Jeffrey Wilson and his partner, Brian Kasper, it all started with chickens. actually, it really started with a vegetable garden, but the chickens followed soon after. Three laying hens and one coop quickly turned into nine birds, two coops and a mounting supply of eggs, which they sell to friends. Then Wilson read about the colony collapse disorder that had hit honeybees in North america. Now, Wilson and Kasper’s postage stamp of a backyard in inner southeast Portland is home to a nucleus colony of 10,000 bees that Wilson hopes to grow to 80,000 strong within the next year.

Jumping from chickens to bees has been a bigger change than Wilson, 36, had expected it to be. “i felt more prepared to keep bees before i actually got them,” he tells me while sipping a mirror Pond ale in his tidy backyard. a few feet away, dozens of bees are flying in and out of a hive that sits under an apple tree. “Now that i’m doing it, i’m realizing you have to learn a lot.

Everything in their life cycle is very timed and exact. i should be keeping notes.”

Luckily, Wilson has the 416-page “Beekeeper’s Bible” to assist him in his education, as well as Glen andresen, a seasoned apiarist from whom Wilson took a class 36

through the Portland Bureau of Planning and sustainability’s Urban Growth Bounty community education program.

He’s also lucky to have supportive neighbors. “To get the permit through the county, you are supposed to notify all your neighbors. i assume they meant before you bring your colony home,” Jeffrey laughs.

“But mine arrived earlier than i expected. my neighbor was out mowing the lawn, and i said, ‘Hey Bill, i’ve got bees!’ He was fine with it. None of our neighbors have complained, even though our bees have swarmed twice already.” When a hive of bees rears one too many queens, one of the queens will take off with part of the colony to start a new one.

“They find someplace to congregate before they figure out where to go next, so there’s this big ball of bees hanging onto each other on a tree for a day. The first one happened when i wasn’t home. Brian was texting me photos and panicking, wondering what to do.” Though these menacinglooking swarms often scare neighbors, Wilson tells me when bees swarm they’re at their most docile. despite having to monitor his bees for extra queens and threats of fungi and mites, Wilson says the bees have been a perfect addition to his backyard. “i get good manure from the chickens for the garden. The bees pollinate everything. it’s a good little ecosystem. it seems silly not to do all three. if you are really into food, growing it, cooking it, this just all works.”

For a city dweller like Wilson, a busy sales representative for Patricia Green cellars winery, tending to his bird-bee-garden triumvirate is as far as he wants to go in terms of backyard animal rearing. after all, tackling colony collapse disorder is no small challenge. and soon he’ll have upward of 30 pounds of honey to contend with each year, a rewarding golden-hued result of Wilson’s backyard golden mean. £

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Our Favorite Season

Five fabulous recipes celebrate late summer’s dizzying variety of produce

All summer long we’ve watched, and waited. ■ We watched as the tiny yellow flowers on our tomato plants swelled into fruit. And we waited until they slowly turned red. We kept our eye on the farmers market booths, looking for the first glimpses of corn. Then we waited until the giant bins arrived, with signs boasting four ears for a dollar. ■ We’ve been waiting for this moment, and it’s finally here: harvest season. ■ We’re swimming in late-season, longed-for, juice-dripping-down-your-chin produce. Peaches and peppers, beans and basil — everything a cook could want is ripe and ready, all at once, in abundance. ■ As we hover on the brink of fall, September is our last chance to cook our hearts out with the most colorful, varied lineup of fresh, local ingredients we see all year. To give you some inspiration to put all that good stuff to use, we asked five local chefs for their favorite late summer recipes. They happily obliged with a gorgeous array of dishes, from a beautiful plate of thinly shaved, lightly dressed zucchini, to a creamy risotto topped with heirloom tomatoes and corn. So turn the page and get cooking, because there’s no time like the present. Photography by MIKE DAVIS

39

Chef Pascal Chureau combines sweet corn, meaty pancetta and bright tomatoes into a flavor-packed topping for luscious, creamy risotto.

In this elegant and elemental salad, DOC chef Jobie Bailey puts peak-season zucchini, tomatoes and basil front and center. Â?

41

At Wildwood, chef Dustin Clark proves that foods that grow together, go together. His salad of beans, blackberries and chanterelle mushrooms, is a delicious example.

42

43

To turn mild halibut into a bold statement, Fratelli chef Paul Klitsie tops it with a mix of diced heirloom tomatoes, olives, anchovies and fresh herbs. Â?

Squash and Cherry Tomato Carpaccio Makes 4 servings

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Topping the rich, creamy risotto with a mix of warm sautéed tomatoes, corn and pancetta is delicious enough, but drizzling the whole thing with a sweet-tart syrup of maple and vinegar is genius. maple gastrique:

risotto:

¼ cup moscatel vinegar (see note)

6 to 8 cups chicken stock

1 cup pure maple syrup corn and tomatoes: ¼ pound pancetta, diced 2 cups fresh sweet corn kernels ½ teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 cup diced heirloom tomatoes

3 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup diced onion 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups Carnaroli rice ½ cup dry white wine ½ cup grated ParmigianoReggiano ¼ cup crème fraîche Salt Freshly ground Szechuan pepper or black pepper

44

to make the maple gastrique: In a small saucepan set over high heat, boil the vinegar until reduced by half. Add the maple syrup and reduce until the mixture is thick. to make the corn and tomatoes: In a medium sauté pan set over medium heat, slowly cook the diced pancetta until crispy.

Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl. Add the corn kernels to the pan and cook in the pancetta fat until tender.

Transfer to the bowl with the pancetta, add the tarragon, and stir to combine. Return the sauté pan to medium heat, add the butter and tomatoes. Gently sauté tomatoes for 2 minutes and add to the corn. to make the risotto: In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil over high heat, cover and reduce heat to a simmer.

In a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat, melt the butter, add the onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until softened, about 1 minute. Add the rice, stir to coat, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the white wine and cook, stirring, until absorbed. Stir 2 cups simmering broth into rice and cook, stirring, until absorbed. Continue cooking and adding broth 1 to 2 cups at a time, stirring frequently and letting each addition get absorbed before adding the next, until rice is creamy and tender but still firm at the very center. When the rice is cooked, add the cheese, crème fraiche, salt and Szechuan pepper. to serve: Divide the risotto among 4 plates. Top with the corn and tomato mixture, then drizzle with the maple gastrique.

Note: Moscatel vinegar is an aged Spanish vinegar made from a sweet dessert wine called moscatel. It has a honeyed apricot sweetness and can be found at Pastaworks. If you can’t find it, substitute sherry vinegar or white balsamic vinegar.

— From Pascal Chureau, Allium Bistro, West Linn

5 to 7 small summer squash (zucchini, yellow crooknecks, patty pans, etc.)

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved 8 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces Pinch chile flakes (controne chile or any other chile, finely ground) Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Using a mandoline, very thinly slice the squash (you can cut some lengthwise into ribbons, and some crosswise into circles). Place squash in a large serving bowl and add the cherry tomatoes and torn basil. Sprinkle with several pinches of chile flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the lemon juice and a liberal amount of olive oil over the mixture. Gently mix everything together, taste, and adjust seasoning if necessary.

Allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour before serving, to allow the flavors to meld.

Juice of 1 lemon

— From Jobie Bailey, DOC restaurant, Portland

Extra-virgin olive oil

Chanterelle, Blackberry and Romano Bean Salad Makes 4 servings

Vivid green beans, deep purple blackberries, sunny chanterelles — this salad is bursting with color and flavor. Chef Dustin Clark uses big, juicy Triple Crown blackberries, though any ripe, sweet-tart variety will do.

2 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar ½ shallot, minced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons hazelnut oil 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large cipollini onion, sliced ¾ pound chanterelle mushrooms, sliced ¼ pound Romano beans, blanched and cut into ½-inch strips 2 cups fresh blackberries ½ cup toasted hazelnuts, crushed 6 ounces soft goat cheese

↓

Sweet Corn, Tomato and Pancetta Risotto With Maple Gastrique

Simple, elemental and gorgeous, this salad is a breeze to put together — and a delicious way to use up an abundance of zukes.

oNLiNE Extra:

In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, shallot, garlic, mustard, hazelnut oil and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a medium sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat.

Add the cipollini and sauté until tender and lightly browned. Transfer to a plate and allow to cool to room temperature.

Return the pan to the heat and add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the mushrooms and sauté until liquid has released and mushrooms are lightly browned.

In a medium bowl, toss Romano beans, sautéed onion, berries and warm mushrooms with the vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide among 4 plates and garnish with nuts and cheese.

— From Dustin Clark, Wildwood restaurant, Portland

Tomatoes + peppers = love.

Get Wildwood chef Dustin Clark’s recipe for Tomato, Gypsy Pepper and Egg Crostone at mixpdx.com

Kir Jensen of The Sugar Cube knows perfectly ripe peaches need little adornment.

A quick stint o n the grill and a scoop of boozy-rich Marsala-spiked ice cream transforms them into a special dessert.

45

Sautéed Halibut With Wilted Spinach and Tomato Dressing Makes 6 servings

A bold salsa of tomatoes, onions, garlic, olives and anchovies gives mild-mannered halibut some much-needed attitude. dressing: 8 large Roma tomatoes 2 small red onions, diced 4 cloves garlic, chopped Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 orange 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley ½ cup pitted, sliced olives 2 anchovies, minced (optional) ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ teaspoon granulated sugar ½ cup red wine vinegar 1 to 2 cups extra virgin olive oil Spinach: 1 small onion, diced ½ cup white wine 1½ pounds fresh spinach leaves ¼ teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper Halibut: 6 halibut fillets, approximately 6 ounces each Salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra-virgin olive oil

to make the spinach: Heat a large stockpot over medium heat. Add half the onions, half the wine, half the spinach, the salt and pepper. Cook until the spinach is wilted to half its volume. Add the rest of the onions, wine and spinach, season with salt and pepper to taste, and remove from heat. to make the halibut: Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Set two large sauté pans over high heat.

Add olive oil, and then put the fish in the pan with the skin side down. Sauté for about 3 minutes, until crisp and golden brown. Flip the fish to its other side and cook for an additional 3 minutes. The halibut is best served when it is still medium-rare to medium on the inside. If longer cooking is preferred, be aware that the fish will become dry. to serve: Divide the spinach among six plates and place the sautéed halibut on top. Stir the dressing, and then spoon about 1⁄3 cup over each portion.

— From Paul Klitsie, Fratelli restaurant, Portland

Grilled Peaches with Marsala Ice Cream Makes 8 servings

Grilling heightens the flavor and sweetness of fresh peaches without rendering them completely cooked. A scoop of boozy marsala ice cream makes a decadent accompaniment marsala ice cream: 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 yolk, at room temperature 1½ cups granulated sugar Heavy pinch sea salt 8 ounces Philadelphia cream cheese, softened 1½ cup whole milk 3 cups heavy cream ¼ teaspoon Saigon cinnamon ½ vanilla bean

1 cup Marsala wine (not cooking Marsala) peaches: ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar Heavy pinch sea salt 4 ripe peaches, cut in half, pits removed Vegetable oil Garnish: Meadowfoam honey (or other flavorful honey), sea salt and fresh black pepper

to make the ice cream: In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the eggs, egg yolk, sugar, salt and cream cheese until smooth and pale yellow, about 2 minutes.

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, cream and cinnamon. Split the piece of vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and add them to the pot, along with the pod. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to distribute the vanilla. Remove from heat and whisk about ½ cup of the hot cream into the egg mixture to temper it, then pour the mixture into the pot. Place over medium-low heat and cook, stirring, until mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes.

Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a metal bowl. Place in an ice bath to cool completely before adding the Marsala, tasting as you go. (You might want to add more or less, just don’t go overboard because the alcohol makes the ice cream softer in texture.) Refrigerate custard for several hours or overnight, until completely cold.

Freeze mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions (you may have to do this in 2 batches). Transfer ice cream to an airtight container and place in the freezer for several more hours, until firm enough to scoop. to make peaches: In a small bowl combine the brown sugar and salt.

Brush both sides of the peaches with vegetable oil. Sprinkle both sides liberally with the sugar mixture. Grill cut-side-down over medium-high heat until caramelized, about 5 minutes. Turn over and grill the other side for another 5 to 7 minutes, until peaches are tender but not mushy.

↓

46

to make the dressing: Slice off the top and bottom ends of the tomatoes and cut lengthwise into quarters, removing the seeds. Cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces. In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, red onions, garlic, lemon zest, orange zest, thyme, Italian parsley, olives and anchovies.

Gently mix in the salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar. Pour in enough olive oil to mostly cover the ingredients. Allow the dressing to marinate at room temperature for 4 hours.

oNLiNE Extra:

Get Fratelli chef Paul Klitsie’s recipe for Grilled Grape Leaves Stuffed with Plums and Goat Cheese at mixpdx.com

to serve: Place one to two scoops of ice cream in a small bowl. Top with a peach half and garnish with a drizzle of honey, pinch of sea salt and crack of fresh black pepper. Or, crumble a little blue cheese on top.

From Kir Jensen, The Sugar Cube food cart, Portland

SE Tualatin Valley Hwy

1

2 8

SW 170th Ave

SW 185th Ave

Cornelius Pass Rd

Aloha neighborhood

To Portland

SW Tualatin Valley Hwy 8

8

5

Shaw St

6 To Hillsboro SW Vincent St

7

4

3

d on R ingt

arm SW F

2

1

3

4

West Valley Ceramic Tile & Stone

A great place to meet since 1934... our menu features Dungeness crab dishes, terrific burgers and steaks, appetizers (like our Reedville Rings), pasta, omelettes & tasty desserts.

Farmington Mall Liquor Store

Specializing in: Ceramics • Porcelain Granite • Stone Products

Happy Hour menu offered daily from 3-6 pm & 8 pm to closing. Full bar, Oregon wines, microbrews, outdoor seating & kids menu available.

Welcome Contractors and Homeowners 20001 SW Tualatin Valley Highway Beaverton, OR 503.675.1144 www.westvalleytile.net

7575 SE Tualatin Valley Highway (at Cornelius Pass Rd) Hillsboro, OR 503.649.4643 www.reedvillecafe.com 5

is a True Full Service ORGANIC dry cleaner

Serving our community for over 30 years

Specialize in: • Wedding dresses • Alterations • Draperies

• Large selection of fine liquors • Conveniently located at the Farmington Mall

17683-D SW Farmington Road Aloha, OR 503.642.2826 www.cleanearthcleaners.com

17455 SW Farmington Road Aloha, OR 503.649.6155

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Thank you to our valued customers!

7

8

Schmidt & Yee, P.C. Ponderosa Meat Market

Michael A. Schmidt and Pamela E. Yee Aloha neighborhood attorneys for over 20 years.

Serving clients in the tri-county & Yamhill county areas.

Tues-Fri 11am-5pm, Sat. 9am-3pm

• Business Formation - LLC & S Corporations • Real Estate Matters including For Sale By Owner • Estate Planning • Probate • Wills and Trusts • Elder Law - Home Appts. Available • Commercial Collections

19150 SW Shaw Street Aloha, OR 503.649.5693 www.ponderosameats.com

18525 SW Vincent Aloha, OR 97007 503.642.7641 www.schmidtandyee.com

It’s grilling & smoking season... so head on over to Ponderosa Meat Market for steaks, ribs, burgers, butts & more!

We also carry rubs, sauces, Traeger pellets and smoking woods.

Aloha Marketplace

Monkey’s Subs Freshest in the West!

All subs are not created equal.

Our subs are made fresh, sliced-to-order right before your very eyes.

Lunch Boxes Available.

Check out our Little Chimps Special.

6087 SW 185th Avenue Aloha, OR 503.649.7827

J&S

AUTOMOTIVE

J&S Automotive We fix it right, first time... every time!

We specialize in Lexus, Toyota and foreign & domestic repair.

18970 SW Shaw Street Aloha, OR 503.356.9210 www.j-sautorepair.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Stacey Graff at 503.221.8407 or sgraff@oregonian.com or Barb Maynard at 503.221.8475 or bmaynard@oregonian.com

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walkabout northwest 23rd avenue

49

[ Discover the north end of the strip, where the vibe is more quirky than trendy ] For the longest time, clever sorts referred to Northwest 23rd Avenue as “Trendy-Third.” During the 1990s, the boutique-lined street probably deserved the passive-aggressive moniker, because it was widely perceived as a place where elite Portlanders from the nearby West Hills would come to shop and dine.

But in recent years, the avenue’s air of exclusivity has given way to a more egalitarian feel. Cachet has shifted to the nearby Pearl District and the east side, and national retailers such as Pottery Barn, Williams-Sonoma, Urban Outfitters and The Gap have made the shopping district’s southern end start to feel like “Any Mall USA.” But there are plenty of unique neighborhood finds along the avenue’s northern end, particularly if you venture a few steps beyond the main drag, where you’ll find a breakfast institution, unusual food and a museum dedicated to otherworldly finds.

Despite all these charming quirks, change may be looming in the area north of Lovejoy. Several developers have their eyes on underused blocks, and there’s talk of big-box national businesses moving in, potentially displacing businesses and buildings that have been around for more than a century. But until the bulldozers start, 23rd’s north end retains its distinct, nontrendy character.

By GrANT BUTLer / PHOTOGrAPHy By MOTOyA NAkAMUrA

walkabout / nw 23rd avenue cont.

Stepping Stone Cafe

The Dragonfly Coffee House

50 3 2

NW thurmAN st.

NW 24th AVe.

4

NW quimby st.

1

NW Northrup st.

NW 23rd AVe.

5

NW johNsoN st.

6

A good place to begin discovering the area’s charms is the venerable 1 stepping stone Cafe (2390 N.W. Quimby St.; 503-222-1132; steppingstonecafe.com), which has been dishing up plate-sized pancakes and attitude since the mid-1980s. The kitchen’s motto is, “you eat here because we let you,” and there are plenty of people who line up daily to get permission for scrambles, hashbrowns and 13-inch flapjacks that are so big most people can’t finish one, much less a stack of three. A big part of Stepping Stone’s appeal is its blend of atmospheres. The counter, stools and booths all feel like a 1940s diner, but the walls have paintings of Charlie Sheen and other modern pop-culture touchstones, and there’s a display of monogrammed thong undies — something that would have made Mildred Pierce blush. Adding to the whimsy are Christmas ornaments that dangle from

the ceiling from fishing wire, and go up and down anytime someone opens the front door. The dancing ornaments feel even more surreal on weekends, when the restaurant stays open until 3 a.m. to cater to the club and bar crowd.

2 the dragonfly Coffee house (2387 N.W. Thurman St.; 503-224-7888), is one of Portland’s best but least talked about coffee shops. It’s easy to see why people might want to keep it their little secret.

The mood is pure conviviality, as people sink into plush chairs and overstuffed couches while sipping espresso drinks and enjoying treats from the massive pastry case. Almost everything is baked from scratch, and all that baking — from veggie quiche to crumb cakes and vegan breakfast bars — makes the place smell amazing, as if Betty Crocker worked here. But the menu has modern touches, too. On warm days, there are chilly smoothies combining things like blueberries, apples and hemp milk, and

the house specialty are biscotti seasoned with Chinese five-spice powder.

Around the corner, there’s always something cooking in the kitchen at 3 salt, Fire & time (1902 N.W. 24th Ave.; 503-208-2758; saltfireandtime.com). This community-supported general store and teaching kitchen, which is set up in an old Craftsman house, sells a limited array of prepared foods as well as artisan ingredients, such as slow-simmered broth made out of bones from local farms, pork fat rendered from pigs raised on biodynamic farms and citrus-cured beef jerky. In the freezer, there are whole pasture-raised chickens from kookoolan Farms. On Fridays all those gourmet ingredients come into play at the informal Backyard Feast, a $15-a-plate dinner where kids and dogs are welcome.

After one of those Friday feasts,

The Freakybuttrue Peculiarium discover the neighborhood’s newest museum at 4 the Freakybuttrue peculiarium (2234 N.W. Thurman St.; 503-227-3164; peculiarium.com).

Despite the hand-painted sign saying that it was established in 1967, this monster museum/snack bar opened this summer, and lives up to its peculiar name. In the “museum,” revel in displays devoted to Bigfoot, space aliens, mutants and various freaks of nature, as well as unknown bits of Pacific Northwest history. If you’re lucky, you’ll drop by when magicians are doing hard-to-fathom card tricks or there’s live music. At the snack bar, you can purchase gag gifts sure to make a preteen boy smile — you never know when you’ll need fake blood and plastic vomit! — and you can order pizza slices, sandwiches and hot dogs, as well as freeze-dried crickets and other formerly crawling critters.

That’s one way to get some more protein in your diet.

A tastier way, however, is a meal at 5 red onion thai Cuisine (1123 N.W. 23rd Ave.; 503-208-

Tea Chai Té 2634; redonionportland.com). There are plenty of good restaurants along Northwest 23rd Avenue, but red Onion may be the only one that qualifies as great. Many of the spicy dishes served here aren’t found at most Thai restaurants around town, and the monthly specials board features

red Onion Thai Cuisine

some of the most fiery fare the chef can dream up. The menu is annotated with red onion drawings, indicating the curries and stir-fries that will make your palate scream for relief. yes, you can order pad Thai, if you must, but dinner here is supposed to be about adventure.

To wind down, there’s 6 tea Chai té (734 N.W. 23rd Ave., #B; 503-228-0900; teachaite.com), which is on one of the busiest stretches of Northwest 23rd but is almost always a space that’s quiet and calm, thanks to the teahouse’s second-floor location. The tea menu has more than 120 varieties, which can be overwhelming, but employees are happy to help you find one you’ll love. To go with each freshly brewed pot, there are vegan pastries and vegan red beans and rice.

But the real reason to come here is the serene setting, particularly in the calm front parlor with windows overlooking the avenue. Linger with a book. Sip some nerve-mending chamomile.

Breathe. Being untrendy can help restore the soul. £

51

Bu rn sid e

Dine in Nob Hill W

NW 24th Ave

NW

d er R tov s e W

Nu

2 3

7

W Burnside

NW Quimby St

NW Pettygrove St

NW Overton St

NW Marshall St

1

NW 21st Ave

Wildwood Restaurant & Bar

2

Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30 Dinner: Nightly, 5:30-close Happy Hour: Mon- Fri, 4:30-6:30 Private Dining Rooms also available.

Guest Parking lot on Overton St. 1221 NW 21st Avenue Portland OR 503.248.9663 www.wildwoodrestaurant.com

Limo Peruvian Restaurant, located in the heart of the NW, offers a menu featuring Northwest Peruvian coastal cuisine with a touch of a sophisticated ambiance.

Serving Lunch and Dinner 7 days a week

Join us for Happy Hour!

Tue-Sat 4pm-6pm, Sun. 3pm-6pm

701 NW 23rd Avenue Portland OR 503.232.9440 www.papahaydn.com

5

Urban Fondue This renowned steakhouse has been at its original location at West Burnside for 3 generations.

Serving a unique dining experience featuring scratch recipe fondues made with local ingredients.

Open 7 nights a week 2114 NW Glisan Street (next to Bartini) Portland, OR Reservations: 503-242-1400 or www.urbanfondue.com

Nob Hill Marketplace

Serving cuisine from Italy, France and the greater Mediterranean region.

Featuring a full bar and Wine Spectator award-winning wine list.

Private dining rooms available.

Now Hosting Happy Hour 3pm-6pm Monday - Friday

6

4

Serratto

Fine Dining, Catering, Wine, and Wedding Cakes.

340 NW Westover Road Portland OR 503.477.8348 www.limorestaurant.com

Ringside Steakhouse

3

Papa Haydn

Limo Peruvian Restaurant

Cooking from the source in since 1994.

2165 W Burnside Street Portland, OR 503.223.1513 www.ringsidesteakhouse.com

NW Lovejoy St

4

1

Ringside has earned a national reputation serving the best steaks in town with impeccable service and an unmatched wine list, all in a timeless, old-school atmosphere.

NW Kearney St

NW Johnson St

NW Irving St

NW Hoyt St

NW Glisan St

NW Flanders St

NW 22nd Ave

6

NW Davis St

5

NW Everett St

NW 22nd Place

NW Northrup St

NW 23rd Ave

Parking lot on NW Johnson St. Lunch, Dinner & Happy Hour Seven days a week.

2112 NW Kearney Street Portland, OR 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com 7

Dorio Cafe & Taverna Authentic Greek food.

On the street car line.

Lunch, dinner, full bar and carry-out.

Happy Hour Mon-Sat 3pm-6pm 1037 NW 23rd Avenue #200 Portland, OR 503.219.0633 www.dorionw.com

To advertise in Marketplace contact Lindsay Grant at 503.221.8352 or lgrant.oregonian.com

good cheese / gabietou

53

m

[ Spring flavors preserved for fall ]

By SASHA DAVIES / PHoTogrAPHy By DoUg BEgHTEL any American artisan cheeses have matched and even eclipsed their European counterparts. But when it comes to seasonal cheese production, the French have a trump card: devette.

Devette comes from the verb dévêtir, meaning “to undress.” It’s used to describe the practice of moving a herd of ruminants up into high, mountain pastures to graze on the lush and varied grasses that become exposed as the winter snow melts away. Every spring the herds are unleashed to “undress” the mountain.

The practice evolved in valley settlements that are surrounded by mountain ranges. Farmers had to be astute planners to feed their herds year-round. So in the spring, when grasses on the surrounding

Name: gabietou Milk: Basco Bearnaise sheep, Holstein cow Age and look: Low, flat 10-inch-diameter wheel with a peach-colored rind and creamy white paste aged for three to five months.

Flavor: gabietou is luscious and creamy on the palate. The paste carries a lovely earthiness while also having sweet notes of hazelnuts and sometimes hints of tropical fruit.

Drink with: It’s wonderful with oregon pinot noir or any earthy, smooth red. As for whites, stay local and try a crisp oregon pinot gris, or match it by region and pair it with a southern French Jurançon sec.

Why we like this cheese: gabietou reminds us how rewarding it is to experience the cultures and flavors of faraway places through the cheesemaker’s art.

Where to find it: Cheese Bar, Foster & Dobbs and Whole Foods

good cheese cont. mountainsides emerged from the snow, farmers would lead their herds up to take advantage of the new growth — and thereby reserve more of their easy-toharvest valley pastures for hay production, which could keep the cows fed through the winter.

All that fresh, verdant grass results in rich, flavorful milk and, in the right hands, cheese. gabietou (gah-bee-ay-too) is a prime example. Made in one of the valleys running through the French Pyrenees, a region known for its shepherding and cheesemaking traditions, it made its debut in 2001. The cheesemaker, gabriel Bachelet, was obsessed with finding the perfect blend of spring milks for his cheese. After much experimentation, he settled on a combination of one-third sheep’s and two-thirds cow’s milk. The combination gives the semifirm cheese a luscious texture (think

54

fontina, but more luxurious) and a wonderful bouquet of aromas and flavors, including hints of hazelnut from the sheep’s milk.

Wheels of gabietou are made in late spring, and at one week old they are moved to the aging caves of famed affineurs (experts in cheese aging) such as Hervé Mons. There, they are washed weekly to keep their rinds supple and encourage the activities of beneficial bacteria called Brevibacterium linens, aka B. linens. These bacteria give gabietou’s rind its lovely light peach hue. The affineur tends to the wheels for three to five months, releasing the first wheels just in time for harvest in September.

Silky, nutty and altogether bewitching, gabietou will allow you to bring a hint of vibrant spring pastures to your fall table. £

Spend the Night with us in

for Friday

Night Flights

September 9th at Carlton Cellars, Cooking demonstration with Nick of Nick’s Italian Cafe - www.CarltonCellars.com

Stroll tasting rooms, galleries, shops and B&Bs in historic downtown. We’re open late every Friday from 5-7pm now until December 16th with special offerings, discounts and events!

Look for a featured business event each week and stay for live music at the Horse Radish every Friday and Saturday night!

September 16th at The Horse Radish, specialty pairings; Oregon wines matched with top-drawer appetizer plates September 23rd at WildAire Cellars, WildAire goes Tapas! Tapas by La Rambla served with house wines www.WildAireCellars.com September 30th at Republic of Jam, Launch party of RoJ’s Cocktail Club, 5-8pm www.RepublicofJam.com Carlton, more flavor to savor than any small town in Oregon!

www.CarltonBusinessAssociation.com

WELCOME TO

arlton C

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L ABOR D AY W EEKEND - SEPT. 3-5

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five wines [ From way down south ]

57

While most of us focus our attention on the wines of europe, Ken Collura, wine director at Andina, has discovered the many pleasures of South American wines. he’s curated the city’s best selection of Chilean, Argentinean and uruguayan wines to go along with the restaurant’s novo-Peruvian cuisine.

s

eptember is bittersweet. It’s the last gasp of Oregon’s gorgeous summer, a wistful time for those of us who live for garden-fresh tomatoes and alfresco dining. It’s also the month when our favorite warm-weather wines start to disappear as they sell out. We must bid adieu to that rosé and that Txakoli that kept us so refreshed … until the 2011 vintage debuts next spring.

To lift our spirits as the weather cools, we popped over to one of the hottest places in town. Andina, the Pearl District’s bustling Peruvian eatery, is probably Portland’s busiest restaurant, turning out some 3,000 dinners (and countless lunches and cocktails) each week.

By KATherIne COle / PhOTOgrAPhy By mOTOyA nAKAmurA

five wines conT.

58

As tipplers, we don’t feel nearly as wistful about September when we’re at Andina — and, no, that’s not because we’re too busy throwing back Pisco Sours.

Allow me to explain: South America is in the Southern h emisphere, where the winegrowing season is the reverse of ours. This means there’s a whole new crop of South American bottles debuting now, just as the supply of northern whites and pinks is growing thin.

Portland’s oeno preferences tend to tip locally, and to Italy and France.

América de Sud? not so much. But if ever there was a place to get to know the wines of Chile, Argentina and uruguay, it’s Andina, where the selection of South American wines is unparalleled in this town (and, we’d venture, the northwest in general). So we knew we were in very good hands when Andina’s wine director, the peerless Ken Collura, offered to walk us through the most exciting affordable wines from the southern continent.

The first thing we noticed about Collura’s picks: They’re easy on the wallet — all cost less than $20.

Though it’s certainly possible to spend more for fine South American wines, it isn’t necessary, Collura says. At the same time, this isn’t a lineup of cheapies. While Australia

 onLine eXTRA: find out

where to buy the wines and get chef Hank costello’s recipe for Tiradito de Beterraga at miXpdX.com

was pushing vats of cheap “critter” wines (think yellowtail), “the quality of the wines out of South America has improved drastically over the past 10 to 15 years,” Collura says.

“These are not single-dimensional wines meant for red meats and not much else.”

Indeed, when we asked chef hank

Costello for a late-summer recipe to highlight Collura’s white selections, he gave us his Tiradito de Beterraga, a sashimi (“tiradito”) of sorts that reflects the strong Japanese (“Nikkei”) cultural influence in the cuisine of multiethnic Peru. But in place of fish, the chef fans out colorful coins of yellow and red roasted beet (that’s the “beterraga” part).

Costello one-ups wasabi by replacing it with an ají verde, or green chile sauce, of jalapeño, leek, mint, cilantro and lime; his alternative to the typical Japanese garnish of shredded daikon radish is a fresh-

pickled salad of cucumber, jicama and shiitake mushrooms.

From a wine-pairing perspective, this combination of picante peppers and sleek, crisp textures is no walk in the park.

But it’s gorgeous with a Chilean sauvignon gris or an Argentinean viognier.

When it comes right down to it, Costello’s Tiradito de Beterraga is nothing more than a platter of sliced beets. Similarly, Collura’s South American wines all taste reassuringly familiar, once we’ve got them in the glass.

Perhaps this explains why Andina is so popular: Peruvian cuisine might sound frisson-inducing foreign to most of us, but once we get past the front door, we feel completely at home. That topsyturvy yet completely comforting feeling is what we crave — in food, in wine and in life.

Summer may be waning here, but in South America, spring is just beginning.

THe wines 2009 Mil Piedras Mendoza Argentina Viognier ($11.50) What does a vineyard at 3,400 feet elevation in mendoza’s Valle de uco have in common with a vineyard in France’s rhône river valley? rocks. “mil piedras” means “1,000 stones,”

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, Ă&#x201A;Â&#x2039;ÂśvQ 5Â&#x2039;Â&#x2039;W­ :Â&#x2020;W -Âś:vÂ&#x2020; ]­­ -Âś]] and this high-altitude site in the shadow of the Andes is as rocky as any spot in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Combine that with piercing sunlight and alpine-cold nighttime temperatures and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got a â&#x20AC;&#x153;distinct terroirâ&#x20AC;? for a viognier thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;snappy,â&#x20AC;? as Collura puts it, with a bright, citrus-tinged energy. So forget those oily, tropical viogniers youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve grown accustomed to. Collura recommends pairing this wine with a white flaky fish in a beurre blanc, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also dynamite with chef Costelloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tiradito.

2010 CousiĂąo-Macul Maipo Valley Chile Sauvignon Gris ($16) From the files of wine varieties we wish we knew better comes this fragrant, creamy-yet-crisp find. Collura informs us that sauvignon gris is a member of the sauvignon family, with a pink-gray skin similar to that of pinot gris. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It tastes almost like an even split between a pinot gris and a sauvignon blanc â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a fun combo,â&#x20AC;? he remarks. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This wine has a little bit of plumpness and a snap of acid,â&#x20AC;? making it a divine companion for tiradito or, if you prefer, ceviche. One more thing: If you were to lob a ball over the Andes from mendozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Valle de uco (see above), it would land in CousiĂąo-maculâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home turf in the upper maipo Valley. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re connecting the dots and thinking that highalpine environments make for wickedly delicious whites.

2008 Durigutti Mendoza Argentina Bonarda ($12.50) â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fear pairing bonarda with shellfish; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done it before. I paired a bonarda with lobster at a James Beard dinner.â&#x20AC;? Ken Collura now has our undivided attention. What?!

Bonarda is one of those deep, inky-colored reds that appears destined to accompany steaks.

But looks can be deceiving. â&#x20AC;&#x153;here is a wine that has deep, dark color and rich-looking texture in the glass. And yet it is bright, crisp and almost light,â&#x20AC;? Collura says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It works

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great with our food, which is really colorful on the table and medium to light in weight.â&#x20AC;? (his fave pairing: bonarda with arroz con pato, or rice with duck confit.) Aged in concrete vats rather than oak barrels, this particular red is juicy and bright â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s practically guaranteed to lift your spirits.

And you can afford it even when lobster or duck are beyond your budget.

2009 Root: 1 Colchagua Valley Chile Carmenere ($12.50) For many years, Chilean vine tenders thought their old-vine plantings of carmenère were actually the better-known Bordeaux grape merlot; its aromatic notes of tobacco, cocoa and coffee perpetuated the misperception. now that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been properly identified, carmenère is emerging as Chileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature grape, with vines dating to the 19th century still producing excellent fruit.

This bang-for-the buck bottling from a fairly prolific producer has the hallmarks of quality, says Collura. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got more acidity than most and less alcoholic kick on the finish, which is long and complex for a wine at this price point,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It may be a little esoteric for some, but the staff here has really taken to it.â&#x20AC;?

2008 Bouza Montevideo Uruguay Tannat ($17) Originally Basque, tannat has a history in Southern France but may have found its rightful home in uruguay, says Collura: â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is by far the most popular grape coming out of uruguay. It seems to suit their terroir and their cuisine; they like lots of red meat.â&#x20AC;?

This particular example â&#x20AC;&#x153;is a bruiser,â&#x20AC;? according to Collura. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no-holds-barred: superrich, black in color, built more on power than on finesse.â&#x20AC;?

From Canelones, the southcentral coast of uruguay (just across the rĂ­o de la Plata estuary from Buenos Aires), this powerhouse red is just right for burgers and steaks. ÂŁ

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PUBCRAWL

61 61

The accidental farmer: When a hops shortage prompted Brett Joyce and the Rogue Ales crew to start growing their own hops on leased land in Independence, they didn’t realize it would also lead to a barley farm, a new line of beers, and a bed-andbreakfast/interpretive center. “In this case, necessity was the mother of invention,” Joyce says.

s

[ Going Rogue — from beer makers to beer growers ] eptember’s hop harvest is a frenetic and sustained burst of activity on Oregon’s 30 or so midvalley hop farms — a 24/7 marathon to cut down acres of tall hop vines, then feed them through giant rattling, shaking machines called hop pickers. Huge flails thrash the inch-long, fluorescent-green hop cones from their vines (called bines in the business), send them up shaking conveyors that separate leaves and debris, then deposit them in vast, screen-floored bays where dryers like small jet engines bathe them in dragon’s breath.

Finally, the dried hops are compressed into 200-pound bales, wrapped in burlap and trundled off to the cooler.

BY JOHN FOYSTON / PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE ELY

PUBCRAWL Cont.

Chatoe Rogue isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just a line of Rogue beers made with estate-grown ingredients, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an actual place. In fact, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a beer-loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream. Part tasting room, part bed-and-breakfast and part working hop farm, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ideal place to see firsthand how the fragrant green flowers go from vine to bottle. Right now the harvest is in full swing, with trucks constantly hurtling between the hop yards and the processing machines. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most action-packed, though not exactly peaceful, time of year to visit.

62

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sight that most outsiders never got a chance to see until Rogue Ales opened Chatoe Rogue, the new tasting room, bed-andbreakfast and working hop farm just outside of Independence.

Rogue Ales didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t set out to build a hop interpretive center, says owner and former Nike exec Jack Joyce, who co-founded Rogue in 1988. They just wanted to make sure that nobody ever had to tell brewmaster John â&#x20AC;&#x153;More Hopsâ&#x20AC;?

Maier that the hops cupboard was bare. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In this case, necessity was the mother of invention,â&#x20AC;? says Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son Brett Joyce, who now runs the company, which has a production brewery and distillery in Newport, pubs and brewpubs in Oregon and Washington, and which exports beer and spirits around the country. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This was during the massive

Rogue Farms Micro Hopyard/Chatoe Rogue 3590 Wigrich Road Independence 503-838-9813 Hopyard tours: Noon and 4 p.m. weekends, or call to schedule a different time

global hops shortage of 2007, and we wanted to be sure weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d never have to tell John that he couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t put hops in his beers, so we decided to grow our own.â&#x20AC;?

Instead of depending on soldout hop brokers like almost every other brewery in the world, Rogue found a century-old family hops farm, leased some acreage and started farming. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We do lease the land,â&#x20AC;? Brett says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;but an important distinction is that we take on all the financial risk â&#x20AC;&#x201D; we pay for all labor, capital expenses, bines, poles, etc. If the crop fails, then we are out all the expenses, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just like being a real farmer. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not about vertical integration, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not about cost savings â&#x20AC;&#x201D; these are probably about the most expensive hops ever and the hop shortage is over â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been fun.â&#x20AC;?

It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t long before hop farming led to barley farming, and Rogue found itself creating a fascinating sideline of beers called Chatoe Rogue, complete with the acronym GYO (â&#x20AC;&#x153;grow your ownâ&#x20AC;?) on the label. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now a Rogue Department of Agriculture that issues crop reports on the hop farm and on the 200-acre barley farm

theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve leased in the Tygh Valley from a Portland surgeon â&#x20AC;&#x153;with a farming habit,â&#x20AC;? as Brett puts it. Rogue is growing winter and spring malting barley, has trademarked the varieties as Dare and Risk, and has already used both types for brewing and distilling.

Soon the brewery will even be able to malt that barley for brewing. Barley provides the enzymes and sugars that yeast converts into alcohol, but it must first be malted: sprouted, then kilned to the desired degree of roast.

Industrial maltsters, such as Great Western in Vancouver, malt in batches of several hundred thousand pounds, but Rogue, Oregon State University and others are pioneering micro-malting.

The upshot is that Rogue has already been able to release beers made almost entirely with Roguegrown ingredients, such as Chatoe Rogue Single Malt Ale, Dirtoir Black Lager and OREgasmic Ale, and it expects to expand the line as more crops come in. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re preserving the terroir of Oregon one beer at a time,â&#x20AC;? Brett PHOTOGRAPHY (LEFT TO RIGHT) BY BRUCE ELY, FAITH CATHCART, MIKE DAVIS

says. “Terroir is real, especially for Oregon hops, which are grown in the microclimate of the Willamette Valley. In a way, we’re bringing the winery experience to beer drinkers.

They can see the crops, watch the processing and taste the products.”

The Chatoe Rogue farm really is a beer drinker’s paradise.

Sitting on the tasting room deck with a pint of Dead Guy Ale or Chatoe Rogue Single Malt in your hand, it feels as though you’re many more miles away from the big city than the 40 or so showing on your trip meter.

The deck looks directly out over a big lawn to Rogue’s 40-acre hopyard brimming with seven varieties. In the distance are other hopyards, fields and orchards of cherries and hazelnuts. Behind you are barns and outbuildings, and the century-old farmhouse that has been remodeled into a bed and breakfast. Rogue Bed ’n’ Hops sleeps half a dozen, rents for $300 a night, and its spacious, shaded deck has already seen several weddings and a couple of live concerts this year.

There are fields where free-range chickens wander; a pumpkin patch; a beach on the Willamette River; a nano

brewery stocked by Rogue and used by Salem-area homebrew clubs; a garden full of herbs; and a pervasive feeling — except during harvest and its hurtling trucks — that you’re well away from the hustle and bustle.

Nick Harville of the midvalley Strategic Economic Development Corporation says Chatoe Rogue has sparked an uptick in agritourism and focused a lot of attention on the Independence area. Natascha Cronin, who runs the tasting room, confirms that interest by the composition of her weekend crowds at the tasting room.

“We get two kinds of visitors,” she says, “destination tourists and locals, and I’d say 30 percent of my customers come every weekend.”

That doesn’t mean that Chatoe Rogue is a cash cow yet, but the Rogue crew seems to care as little about that as it does about conventional spelling.

“Does it make sense economically?” Brett asks. “No way — but it isn’t about the bottom line, it’s about learning and the journey. The accountants want to kill us, but the secret is not to let them run the company.” £

63

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[ City in the Gorge is more than a pit stop on I-84 ] uffeted by strong winds and toasted by sunshine, the Dalles may feel like it’s somewhere between here and there, resting in the shadows of wind-surfing-hub hood river and woolblanket-and-rodeo-famed pendleton.

But the town — neatly wedged between the columbia river and a bluff backed by acres of orchards, wheat fields and vine-

yards — is actually in an ideal spot for wine tasting. many columbia river gorge wineries are within easy reach, and as you become acquainted with the local vineyards, you can make the Dalles your refueling zone. here you’ll find that kind of genuine country charm urbanites long for but rarely find. pies, pancakes and prime rib stock the local menus, while vintage aprons hang in antique shops and men shop for Wranglers and work boots.

By Lucy Burningham / photography By Brian feuLner

Argyle Winery Taste world class wines in the heart of Oregonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wine Country

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Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s say you arrive just in time for lunch. head for the Anzac Tea Parlour (218 W. fourth St.; 541-296-5877; anzactea.com), which is in a gussied-up Victorian home that will make you want to sip tea with your pinky out. in addition to the more than 100 varieties of tea, the menu offers a range of tasty treats: cucumber tea sandwiches, scones with Devonshire cream, and flaky meat pies and sausage rolls done aussie style (owner and chef Bev eagy lived Down under for

20 years). finish off the meal with a pavlova â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a quintessential australian sweet of fluffy, crispy meringue topped with whipped cream and fruit. or spin the globe 180 degrees and indulge your inner francophile at Petite Provence (408 e. Second St.; 541-5060037; provence-portland.com), which has sister locations in Lake oswego and portland. though locals consider this place a breakfast joint (maybe because thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no other croissants in town), lunch is just as good in the form of risotto cakes topped with poached

67

eggs, french onion soup and openfaced pork loin sandwiches. if you pull into town for beer o’clock, and haven’t overindulged at wine tasting rooms, make your way to Clock Tower Ales (311 union St.; 541-705-3590), a modern pub on the first floor of an old courthouse. opt for a pint from the more than two dozen oregon and Washington brews on tap, but hold out for eats at somewhere like Big Jim’s Drive In (2938 e. Second St.; 541-298-5051). the old-school, squeaky-clean burger joint makes its own waffle cones, which can be packed with any number of

scoops of umpqua ice cream. add some salt to the sweet with fries or tater tots that get ushered to the table alongside a classic fry sauce.

When dusk creeps down the gorge, head to dinner at the Baldwin Saloon (205 court St.; 541-2965666; baldwinsaloon.com), which occupies — you guessed it — a former saloon that also housed a brothel. the historic building now holds a collection of englehart frontier landscape paintings, a brass cash register and a turn-ofthe-century piano that still gets played on the weekends. When ordering, go classic american with pan-fried oysters, steaks served

with creamed horseradish, prime rib and baked potato, or clam chowder. Super sugary desserts, including a deep-dish apple pie and bread pudding, are sized to be shared. if you happen to be in the neighborhood in the morning, don’t miss the warm and welcoming Momma Jane’s Pancake House (900 W. Sixth St.; 541-296-6611). fluffy hotcakes come in buckwheat, honey whole wheat or buttermilk and can be dressed up with everything from cinnamon applesauce to sliced almonds and honey cream cheese.

With its quaint downtown that looks like it’s frozen in 1950, the Dalles offers day-trippers a simple, laid-back spot to refuel and unwind. menus are stocked with classics like juicy burgers, steaks and pancakes, while taps around town pour dozens of craft beers.

eat here / the dalles cont.

Who knew the Dalles was such a hotspot for wine tasting? tasting rooms feature lots of bold reds, from barberas to cabs, with mountain views to boot. marshal’s Winery owner ron Johnson walks through the barrel room.

Where to taste Wines 68

Handcrafted Excellence in the Pacific Northwest

Sunshine Mill (901 e.

Second St.; 541-298-8900; sunshinemill.com): this is the town’s newest tasting room.

Wines from the local Quenett Winery are poured on the ground level of a refurbished historic flour mill and served with small plates of cheese, salad and antipasto.

Erin Glenn Wines (710 e.

Second St.; 541-296-4707; eringlennwines.com): Located behind the thick walls of what was supposed to be one of the West’s first federal mints, the warm tasting room pours a range of big reds and the tart Velvet ass rosé. the owner has been known to surprise guests with warm chocolate chip cookies.

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Dry Hollow Vineyards (3410 Dry hollow Lane; 541-296-2953; dryhollowvineyards.com): it’s a 10-minute drive from town to this unassuming tasting room overlooking rows of merlot and syrah vines.

The Pines (541-993-8300; thepinesvineyard.com); Visit the vineyard and tasting room by appointment only. a 15-minute drive from town.

Marshal’s Winery (150 oak creek road, Dallesport, Wash.; 509-767-4633; marshalsvineyard.com): taste a riesling, pinot gris, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and italian barbera with a river view from the Washington side.

Cascade Cliffs Winery (8866 State route 14, Wishram, Wash.; 509-767-1100; cascadecliffs.com): Specializing in big reds. tasting rooms have river and mountain views as well as outdoor seating.

Maryhill Winery (9774 State route 14, goldendale, Wash.; 877-627-9445; maryhillwinery. com): one of the largest wineries in the area produces 18 varieties and 27 wines. hosts a popular outdoor concert series during the summer. £

scene Our picks for what to eat where ReviewS

clarklewis Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty big ten

Best southern barbecue HigH Five

Top veggie burgers

69

The bustling dinner hour — in various states of consumption, from various angles — reflected in the windows at Clarklewis, p70 PHOTOGRAPH BY ROss williAm HAmilTOn

Clarklewis

scene

new reviews

Clarklewis

70

From its tempestuous beginnings, Clarklewis restaurant in Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Central Eastside industrial District has emerged as a desirable destination for locals and visitors out to explore the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current gastronomic byways. Chef Dolan lane and his second, Kyo Koo, are doing a fine job in the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current iteration under veteran restaurateur Bruce Carey. For culinary historians tracing Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emergence on the national stage, a pilgrimage to Clarklewis is mandatory.

Those who have been eating around town since the dawn of the 21st century will recall the imperious House of Hebberoy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; King michael Hebb and Queen naomi Pomeroy â&#x20AC;&#x201D; with their hipper-than-thou, gotta-know-somebody-to-go Ripe Family supper, followed in 2004 by the public-sort-of-welcome Clarklewis helmed by talented but troublesome chef morgan Brownlow. with P.T. Barnum-like promotional flair, Hebb sold the city and a solid segment of the local and national press on the idea that Clarklewis represented, in the words of one restaurant critic, â&#x20AC;&#x153;a whole new way of thinking about what a restaurant can be.â&#x20AC;? Clarklewis was named The Oregonianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant of the Year a mere three months after its doors opened, this despite barbaric chairs, bad lighting, noise in the decibel range of a jet engine, and menu and service pretensions that turned out to be more anomalous than revoluPHOTOGRAPHY BY ROss williAm HAmilTOn

mmodations Exquisite Accommodations Private Dining Great Location catio ation

tionary. short story: after two years, the House of Hebb imploded â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the victim of its ownersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hubris and fiscal incompetence â&#x20AC;&#x201D; leaving Clarklewis to tread water until stuck-holding-thebag investor David Howitt was able to peddle the pieces to Carey in 2007.

Though Hebb has exiled himself to seattle and Pomeroy has resurrected herself as the mediagenic chef/operator at Beast, the motivation to return to Clarklewis has lagged. After recent impressive visits, however, iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sorry i let the civic insult simmer.

The kitchen isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t straying far from the dominant paradigm â&#x20AC;&#x201D; simply presented local, seasonal, newAmerican offerings â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but it is bearing the standard admirably. short menu sections offer starters, salads, pastas and entrĂŠes pairing with a wine list that spans the globe and a compact slate of creative cocktails lorded over by bar manager Ryan Thomas.

Among the frequently changing starters, a roasted rabbit saddle and

A European Style Bed & Breakfast

dice of fava beans and morel mushrooms wrapped in prosciutto ($14) stood out. served with gnocchi-like semolina dumplings, it represented bunny at its best. Also benefiting from the wood ovenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heat: a roasted beet salad ($10) served with Viridian Farmsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stella cherries and drizzled with a blue cheese vinaigrette that would have been better if a bit sharper. Pastas, available in small and large portions, were properly cooked, but the simple spaghetti ($13/$18) with shards of prosciutto, mint and pecorino cheese stole the show.

The proteins on the list of five entrees are a good mix of fish, fowl and four-legged beast, with a Carman Ranch new York steak ($35) anchoring the list. The surprisingly flavorful (and monterey Bay Aquarium â&#x20AC;&#x153;best choiceâ&#x20AC;?) pan-roasted California white sea bass ($27), served with diced summer squash, tart baby tomatoes and saffron butter, earned my admiration. You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go wrong with the salted cara-

mel sundae or seasonal strawberry shortcake (each $8) either. Groups can share a family-style, four-course, $55 per person tasting menu.

Though the lighting is improved and the devilish chairs have been cast out, Clarklewis can still be uncomfortably loud on a busy night â&#x20AC;&#x201D; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only so much you can do with a concrete-floored former warehouse space. But thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the only substantial gripe these days in contrast to a long list of positives, including the gracious floor staff.

The king is dead. long live the king. At todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Clarklewis, the foolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gold flash is gone and substance reigns supreme. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; BY miCHAEl C. ZusmAn

Clarklewis: 1001 S.E. Water Ave., 503-235-2294; clarklewispdx.com

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Joyful noise burbles from the crowdscape of families, friends and lovers filling the second House of the sisters minnick, more commonly known as lovelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fifty-Fifty.

Considering that the pizza here is among the tops in town, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprising that this long, sleek north mississippi Avenue space isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t packed to the gills every night with salivating pizza pilgrims. But maybe thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good thing: There is nothing joyful about having to endure an oppressively long wait or pressured service. lovelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is a simpler, more laid back venture than sarah and Jane minnickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first restaurant, the much-loved lovely Hula Hands that last operated in a spatially awkward two-story house next door to the current venue. The predecessor featured a rotating, seasonal palette of

farm-direct new American dishes, and its popularity peaked prerecession under Chez Panisse veteran chef Troy maclarty.

Coincidence or not, lovely Hula Hands shuttered within a few months of maclartyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s early 2009 departure. The same cryptic letter from the minnicks that noted the impending closure began with the announcement of Fifty-Fiftyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imminent opening. indeed, the new place debuted as planned within a month of the originalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closing.

The operational nexus of the 45-seat lovelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2.0 is its wood-fired pizza oven. From it issue visually and gastronomically superior pies that generously feed one or two and are priced in the mid-teens.

The lightly fermented dough results in a flavorful, well-structured foundation for each pie that emerges from the quick, hightemperature bake beautifully burnished, with the proper kiss of char. The sauce â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not too much or little â&#x20AC;&#x201D; captures the tomatoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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Fresh Italian, Steaks, Seafood and MORE!

scene

BANQUETS â&#x20AC;˘ CATERING LUNCH â&#x20AC;˘ DINNER

Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy

503.292.0119

www.ernestositalian.com

essential sweet/acid balance.

The quantity, texture and flavor of the base mozzarella is good, too.

But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the changeable sets of pizza toppings that channel the spirit of lovelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s predecessor, with ingredient combinations that match the rotation of the seasons. Of course, traditionalists can opt for more minimalist pies â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the meats are from salumi in seattle â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and the little ones can prime their pizza palates with a reduced-size, plain cheese pie priced at a parentfriendly $6.

The attractive slate of starters also bridges the gap between lovely past and lovelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s present. inspired salads, which were always a strength at the original, are likewise worth ordering here.

A late spring choice combined

asparagus, prosciutto, egg, olive and preserved meyer lemon ($8). But, in a savvy break with the old place considering all the young families nearby, Fifty-Fifty features superb house-made ice cream to enjoy post-pizza. malted milk ball and huckleberry-buttermilk were on the list recently.

Considering atmosphere, comfort, quality and breadth of offerings, this is no. 2 on my list of favorite Portland pizza places, exceeded only by Apizza scholls. whatever the ranking, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lovely to have such a welcoming destination on north mississippi Avenue.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; BY miCHAEl C. ZusmAn

Lovelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fifty-Fifty: 4039 N. Mississippi Ave., 503-281-4060; lovelysfiftyfifty.com

Big Ten River Dining at Its Best

MARKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON THE CHANNEL

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FLOATING RESTAURANT Arrive and Relax in Minutes from Portland!

503.543.8765 www.MarksontheChannel.com 34326 Johnsons Landing Rd #17, Scappoose, OR

Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best spots for Southern barbecue Having grown up in Kansas City means i come from a strong barbecue culture. so when i moved to Portland more than a year ago, i was eager to find a place in my new city that would make my â&#x20AC;&#x2122;cueconditioned palate feel at home. One by one i tried them all, ordering the same foods in each restaurant so i could evaluate each equally. not surprisingly, each joint has its own specialty, as well as a few surprises. iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve organized my favorites by what they do best, so if you have a craving for ribs rather than chicken, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll know where to go. with an army of smokers lined up from Portland to mcminnville, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no shortage of great barbecue just waiting for you to dig in. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; JEnniFER COssEY

jonesandjonesjewelers.com 7858 SW Capitol Highway Portland Oregon 97219 503-223-6020

bertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chuckwagon â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Best beans launched by brothers Richard and Tim Bert, this bright red food cart/chuck wagon has been open only since January and word is already getting around. The beef tri-tip is excellent â&#x20AC;&#x201D; well cooked and flavored with a blend of pepper, garlic and worcestershire sauce. As for the sauce, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sweet, savory blend of brown sugar and tomato, with just a little kick from black pepper.

During the winter, they make jalapeĂąo cornbread, which gets baked in their smoker for an hour, to pair with their seasonal chili. Their slaw is delicious, with just a hint of sweetness from pineapple, and their beans

are dangerously good â&#x20AC;&#x201D; thick, smoky, a little spicy and peppered with small pieces of bacon.

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re open wednesday-sunday 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. unless they have people still there, and then theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll stay open later.

1500 S.W. Baker St., McMinnville, 503-560-8855 busterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s texas Style barbecue â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Best Texas style Established in 1982 by two Texasborn barbecue-lovinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brothers, Busterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has made enough of a name for itself that it has been able to open two more locations after its first one in milwaukie.

True to Texas-style barbecue, the heavy rub and marinade used on the ribs gives the meat a good flavor. well-seasoned with brown

CREATIVE & UNIQUE DESIGNS SINCE 1970

Podnah’s Pit Barbecue sugar, black pepper, garlic, salt and a list of undisclosed secret ingredients, the pulled pork has the perfect texture and wonderful flavor. As for sauces, choices are sweet, mild (and sweet) and hot (and sweet) — the latter being my favorite. All the classic sides are represented with dishes like jalapeño-spiced southwestern-style beans and creamy slaw. if you like your barbecue sauce a little sweet or you like a good rub, Buster’s is your place.

Three locations: 17883 S.E. McLoughlin Blvd., Milwaukie, 503652-1076; 11419 S.W. Pacific Highway, Tigard, 503-452-8384; 1355 N.E. Burnside Road, Gresham, 503-667-4811 bustersbarbecue.com Campbell’s barbecue — Best alternative meat selection For more than 20 years, Campbell’s has been serving up some of the city’s best Texas-style barbecue. meats are dry-rubbed with a dark, tangy, peppery mixture and, along with the pies and breads, slow-smoked in a wood pit. Almost everything is made in house, from delicious mac-and-cheese to pork sausage. You can opt for classics like pulled pork, juicy sliced turkey, chicken legs, thick and moist brisket and huge beef and pork ribs, as well as game meats like elk and buffalo. To top them off, PHOTOGRAPH BY mOTOYA nAKAmuRA

choose from one of three sauces: a mild tomato-based sauce, a spicy jalapeño-spiked sauce and a smoky number that offers the perfect balance between savory, sweet, heat and smoke (my overall favorite at this spot). The baked beans are served in a thick broth with a touch of sweetness that pairs nicely with the meats, as does the creamy, pineapplelaced slaw.

8701 S.E. Powell Blvd., Portland; 503-777-9795 campbellsbbq.com Clay’s Smokehouse grill — Best sausage, best chicken with a menu heavy in southern classics like gumbo and sausage, it’d be easy to overlook the barbecue here, but that would be criminal. The meat is slowly smoked, then thrown on the grill for some char. The effect is both dramatic and delicious, especially when it comes to the housemade sausage. The other must-have is the barbecue chicken. instead of being an afterthought aimed at people who don’t eat pork or beef, the chicken is every bit as important as the rest of the meats on the menu. As for sides, they do greens justice with a little heat, some chopped nuts and careful cooking (they actually have some texture), and the slaw’s poppy seed dressing offers a nice twist on the norm.

2932 S.E. Division St., Portland, 503-235-4755 clayssmokehouse.ypguides.net

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Sept. 3rd, 4th & 5th Noon to 6pm CubanisimoVineyards.com Wine tasting, Cuban tapas, 1754 Best Rd NW, Salem, OR 97304 live music & salsa lessons. 503.588.1763

Open Daily for Wine Tasting 11am-5pm

scene Huckabee’s Family bbQ — Best sauce if you happen to be passing through newberg around lunchtime, hit up Huckabee’s. Daily specials, quick and friendly service, and top-notch sauce were enough to earn it a spot on this list. The sauce is nearly perfect, with its balanced spiciness and suggestion of sweetness. The meat itself is pretty standard and most of the sides are just OK, but the coleslaw is great, and it’s hard to find too much fault with a place that offers fried okra as a side.

1819 Portland Road, Newberg, 503-538-2400 huckabeesbbq.com Podnah’s Pit barbecue — Best overall Clean lines, exposed beams and hipsters give this Texas-style barbecue spot a true Portland flair. The bar offers a good selection of beer and wine, plus an inventive cocktail list.

The meats are all stellar, especially the pulled pork, which is nothing less than amazing. The ribs are cooked with precision and thoughtfully sea-

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soned. The chicken is moist and rich, and the brisket is first-rate. You can customize each with one of the three sauces: a spicy and smoky barbecue sauce that has a touch of sweetness; a zesty but slightly oily vinegar sauce; and a delicious mustard sauce that is killer with the pulled pork. Among the generously portioned sides, my favorites were the paprika-sprinkled potato salad and the vinegar-based coleslaw, which did little to calm the palate after a hot and spicy bite but was delectable all the same. The cornbread is out of this world, moist without being gummy and speckled with little chunks of corn.

1625 N.E. Killingsworth St., Portland, 503-281-3700 podnahspit.com Reo’s Ribs — You guessed it, best ribs walking into Reo’s feels like being at home — if your home happens to be somewhere in the south and you are part of snoop Dogg’s family. Visitors are greeted instantly with two large posters of the rap star (although the

sound system is usually playing disco and soul) because, you see, Reo is snoop D-O-double-G’s uncle. But the reason to come here is for the ribs, not to brush ever-so-slightly with fame. Both the beef and the pork ribs are mouth-wateringly good — wellseasoned and not overly rubbed. The brisket and pork also are well cooked, but be sure to ask for your meat with little or no sauce. At Reo’s the food is smothered in the stuff, making it hard to appreciate the flavor and smoky

tenderness underneath. Bottles of sauce are on the table anyway, so you can easily add as much as you like. As for sides, they have it all: greens, fried okra (yes!), cornbread, beans and an unusual yet delicious slaw made with a sweet, secret-recipe dressing (i asked for details, but they aren’t telling).

6141 S.W. Macadam Ave. No. 100, Portland, 503-310-3600 reosribsbbq.com

scene

Reoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ribs Ribslayer bbQ to go/Haagensonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Catering â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Best brisket Ribslayer is the name given to the 8,900-pound, 25-foot wood smoker that sits in the back parking lot.

Though named after ribs, the impressive and inspiring beast produces some seriously rockinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brisket, too.

Cooked and flavored perfectly with a dry rub made of 13 herbs and spices, PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROss williAm HAmilTOn

including cloves, allspice, nutmeg and garlic, the brisket has just the right fat-to-meat ratio. The smoky, thick beans also stand out, as does the flawless chicken, smoky ribs and spicy, bacon-spiked braised greens. next time you find yourself in the fair city of mcminnville, this place is not to be missed. in fact, iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d say itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth the drive down.

575 N.E. Second St., McMinnville, 503-472-1309 ribslayer.com

Slabtown Ribs and bbQ â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Best coleslaw The nice thing about slabtown is there are so many different styles of â&#x20AC;&#x2122;cue, everyone can find something they like.

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The sauces range from a spicy Texasstyle blend, to a slightly sweet Kansas City-style (which wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly KCstyle sauce, but it was still nice), to a rich Carolina mustard sauce thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great with the spicy sausages. in addition to the sausages, other specialties include pork ribs, pulled pork and brisket â&#x20AC;&#x201D; smoked, well-seasoned and simply scrumptious. Greens, beans and a terrific slaw with celery seed, olive oil and white vinegar dressing round out the sides. slabtown participates in barbecue competitions, often wins, and is proud of it â&#x20AC;&#x201D; as is evident from the numerous awards and ribbons on display. But that also means theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re closed on the weekend for competitions and catering.

2606 N.W. Vaughn St., Portland, 503-227-2903 slabtownribsandbbq.com

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Russell Street bar-b-Que â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Most family friendly, best mustard sauce You could come here for the afterdinner praline alone and not be disappointed, but then youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be missing out on the chance to slather your food in Russell streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heavenly mustard sauce. There are others to choose from â&#x20AC;&#x201D; vinegar, mild and a spicy one called Killer (a bit hyperbolic) â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but the mustard is my favorite. Pulled pork, pork ribs, chicken, sausage and brisket â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all good here. And sides include respectable beans, greens, coleslaw, potato salad and handcut french fries. Best of all, you get housemade pickles on the side. with a childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu and plenty of seating, Russell street is a great place to take the kids.

325 N.E. Russell St., Portland, 503-528-8224 russellstreetbbq.com

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Veritable Quandary

scene Natural Food Store

FRESH, LOCAL, ORGANIC • Produce & Meats Fresh Seafood • Local Oregon Wines • Artisan Breads & Cheeses • Full Service Deli & Catering • Natural Health & Beauty Products 251 N. Third Street McMinnville, OR 503.472.5740

www.HarvestFresh.com

76

NIELSEN’S Jewelers Since 1892

503 234 1614

825 NE Multnomah, Suite 280 Lloyd Center Tower across from the Nordstrom’s skybridge

high 5 / veggie Burgers A couple of prominent Portland hamburger restaurants treat their vegetarian customers like second-class citizens. These popular places put tons of effort into their organic beef patties, fromscratch artisan sauces and ketchups, and freshly baked brioche buns. But their veggie burgers? instead of farm-to-table they’re strictly factory-to-freezer. But not every restaurant or food cart treats its veggie burgers like a sorry consolation prize. we lunched around the city to find five topnotch options sure to please burger lovers of all stripes. — GRAnT BuTlER AnD DAniEllE CEnTOni veritable Quandary’s veggie “burger” with Lentils, Hazelnuts & wild Mushrooms: no matter what label you slap on it, this is a great burger. lentils and mushrooms provide plenty of umami, with coarsely ground hazelnuts giving the moist patty plenty of richness. it’s topped with grilled red onions, which introduce sweet notes. You could stop there and keep it vegan or go further with additions of buttermilk blue cheese and white truffle aioli.

The crowning touch: it’s all served on grilled focaccia rather than a run-of-the-mill bun, and it comes with a side salad of lightly dressed mixed greens. At $14, it’s one of the priciest veggie burgers around, but it’s worth it. — G.B. 1220 S.W. First Ave.; 503-227-7342; veritablequandary.com the Observatory’s Quinoa-Mushroom veggie burger: This montavilla bar and restaurant boasts one of the city’s best veggie burgers thanks to its quinoa foundation, which helps hold the moist, mushroom-studded patty together and packs plenty of protein. The $8 burger, which comes with a mound of perfect fries, is served on a plump sesame-seed bun, and you can get it with cheese for a buck more. Bonus points for the ramekin of garlicky aioli that comes on the side, either to slather on your sandwich or for dunking fries. — G.B. 8115 S.E. Stark St.; 503-445-6284; theobservatorypdx.com

the Mash tun brew Pub’s veggie burger: This northeast Alberta street beer hall offers not one but two homemade veggie burgers, and both happen to be vegan — a smart choice, given the neighborhood’s vegan leanings. The standardbearer is the regular veggie burger made out of oats, veggies and chopped almonds, which give the patty richness and crunch. it’s served on a toasted kaiser bun with a smear of egg-free mayo. if you like heat, opt for the black bean burger, which gets plenty of punch from a super-hot pico de gallo and is dressed up with baby greens and plenty of avocado slices. Both $8.95, the sandwiches come with generous sides of shoestring fries — and you can trade up to perfectly fried tater tots for a dollar. — G.B. 2204 N.E. Alberta St.; 503-548-4491; themashtunbrewpub.com Lucy’s Original’s Yacht burger: when a cart serves some of the very best burgers in town — hand-ground, cheese-stuffed and lip-smackin’ — it seems a crime to order the veggie option. But chef/ co-owner Evan Dohrmann puts as much craft into his vegan patties as he does his more famous all-beef versions. The hearty multigrain bun flecked with oat flakes and sunflower seeds, holds a veg-packed patty so delicious, it’s tasty enough to be served on its own. Toppings like fresh microgreens, crunchy bell peppers, cheese and (occasionally)

crispy, sweet-earthy beet chips put it right over the top. —D.C. Lucy’s Original is a roving food truck.

You can keep track of its whereabouts by following @lucysoriginal on Twitter.

Kenny & Zuke’s veggie burger: There are plenty of flavorful, housemade veggie burgers around town, but many of them share the same shortcoming: They’re way too mushy. instead of a patty, you get a paste. not so at Kenny & Zuke’s. This temple of meats is the last place we’d think to get a veggie burger, but the deli does an excellent job with them. The flavorful patty, made with black beans, brown rice, bell peppers, mushrooms and carrots, is super crispy — almost caramelized — on the outside, so it holds its shape and gives you something to sink your teeth into. it’s served on a housemade brioche bun with a generous serving of housemade half-sour pickles to pile on top. You get a choice of coleslaw or a deliciously vinegary potato salad (my favorite) on the side. To finish, pick up a rich, flaky cinnamon rugelach — but beware, they’re so good they’ll haunt your dreams. —D.C. 1038 S.W. Stark St., 503-222-3354; kennyandzukes.com £

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROss williAm HAmilTOn

LAKE OSWEGO: Downtown

LAKE OSWEGO: Kruse Way area

C Ave

A Ave

Kruse Way

6

N State St

1 4

1st St

2

8

2nd St

3rd St

4th St

5th St

(to downtown)

B Ave 6th St

Country Club Rd

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Evergreen Rd Lak e Ba y Ct

7

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Willamette River

Exit 292-B

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7th St

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I-5

217

Boones Ferry Rd

Kerr Parkway

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Lakewood Bay 3

4

World Class Wines

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Experience the senses of Thailand with Dangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Thai Kitchen. We specialize in gourmet Thai Food prepared uniquely with a fusion twist. We serve the ďŹ nest in Thai Cuisine using only the freshest ingredients.

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We love them all - and have just the perfect invitation (as well as greeting cards, wrap, ribbon & fun gifts) for your special event.

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Portlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Only Olive Oil BarÂŽ Store!

Taste before you buy! â&#x20AC;˘ Sample Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Aged Balsamics, and Nut Oils, all handbottled to order. â&#x20AC;˘ A unique selection of gourmet foods: balsamic sauces, pastas, stuffed olives, and more! â&#x20AC;˘ Come experience for yourself.

GREAT gift ideas . . . from specialty oils and vinegars to luxurious health and beauty products made with Olive Oil! Come in and check them out . . . you can sample them before you buy!

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-4 438 1st Street â&#x20AC;˘ 503.675.6457 www.oilerie.com

670 N. State Street, Lake Oswego 503.697.0779 6

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Lady Diâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

British Store

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Dyke has as been creating custom gold and platinum jewelry since 1970. Along with a wide selection of Dykeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s custom jewelry, the showroom also features ďŹ ne quality designer jewelry from around the world.

We hope your visit to our showroom will be one of the most satisfying jewelry experiences you will ever have.

Hours: Tue-Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-4pm 27 â&#x20AC;&#x153;Aâ&#x20AC;? Avenue â&#x20AC;˘ 503.636.4025 www.vandenburghjewelers.com

With more than 40 years experience, our creative and dedicated team will help you choose the perfect design to best enhance your artwork and compliment your decor. Using hand-cut mats, museum glass, and hundreds of unique all-wood or metal frames, we work to insure our clients complete satisfaction.

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Lake Oswego Marketplace

Brighten up your day with a new lampshade!

Approximately 9,000 shades to choose from.

Bring in your Lamp for a Proper Fit. Restyling Accessories, Rewiring, Parts 15942 SW Boones Ferry Road 503.636.1884 www.naomislampsandshades.com

Bring some British charm into your life!

Our delightful store is ďŹ lled with over 500 imported British foods, gifts, teas & china. Take time with friends and enjoy a traditional tea with sandwiches, scones, crumpets & more in our Tea Room between 11am and 3:30pm Mon-Sat. Store hours Mon-Sat 10-5pm 430 Second St, Lake Oswego 503.635.7298 Find us on Facebook

To advertise in Marketplace contact Leah Davidson at 503.221.8300 or leahd@sales.oregonian.com

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