hkiouiu by mixafree

The UK's No.1 sewing mag

Get set to

WOW!

L Eye-catching garment

details to try L Fresh home projects! L Join Alison Smith MBE's brand-new jeans sew-along

Ruffle Tee Sizes

8-18 MASTERCLASS Expert guide for working with leather

CLEVER IDEAS!

Skill-boosting BAGS TO MAKE

DRAFT A CHIC WRAP SKIRT ISSUE 54 UK Â£6.99

Inspire Imagine Create

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Scrap-busting HOME PROJECTS

Meet the

TEAM

… to issue 54 of Love Sewing

dash of sunshine is all I need to kick-start a few bright and bold sewing projects! Are you the same? Here at Love Sewing HQ, I've started making a fun gingham swimsuit, Bethany has been hand-stitching EPP in the garden and Lorna is making a bold yellow top. Whether you're planning a trip away over the coming weeks or looking forward to what the British summer has to offer we've got plenty of great projects for you to try. Our pattern gift this month features the on-trend coldshoulder detail with a Bardot-inspired elastic neckline and optional shoulder straps. You can pick between three lengths and different sleeve options, plus you can add those all-important pockets! And if you're keen to recreate our lovely Liberty tunic from the cover we've got an incredible 20% discount on for all Tana lawn fabric at Sewbox for you to indulge in.

20% off Liberty Tana lawn on page 84

At Love Sewing we're dedicated to helping you boost your skills and tackle any project that takes your fancy. Along the way you'll learn our tips for working with leather, making brilliant bags, creating eye-catching frills, drafting your own skirt and much more. There's also plenty to read this month; we have an inspiring interview on page 72 with scrap-busting superstars FABSCRAP who will encourage you to think about your project offcuts in a new light. Why not try one of our scrapfriendly projects like our appliqué tent cushion or the sleepy eye mask? Continuing the spotlight on special techniques, you can learn all about jeans making in our new sew-along with Alison Smith MBE and we're sharing the history of the pussy-bow blouse in this issue as well. If you have suggestions for any skills or topics you'd like us to cover we'd love to hear them – you can email the magazine at letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

Simon

See Alex's top on page 23 Phew! With so much to read you probably want to get stuck in but before you disappear let me just say a big thank you to Alex for being our reader reviewer this month. I think you'll agree she's looking absolutely gorgeous in her 70s boho version of our McCall's pattern gift. Make sure you stop by her review on page 23 to hear her tips and tricks for this design before you make your own version!

Sweet dreams page 98

ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail. He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins. See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins

Bethany DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks and pins available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She loves to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES 3 6 10 12 14 16

23 29 30 32 34 38 40 42 48 51 55 56 59 65 66 72 77

Welcome Love Sewing Loves 15 mins with Emmaline Bags Machine review Sewing room swoon Pattern picks – 20% on all independent sewing patterns at Dragonfly Fabrics Reader review: free pattern gift Shop of the month SUBSCRIBE TODAY The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake Swatch Selector with Kerry Green Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie This month I’m making Sewing workshops A Brief History of the pussy-bow blouse Fabric focus: Floaty and fabulous Behind the seams with Wendy Ward DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS Readers’ makes PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS Stitcher’s story – Meet FABSCRAP WIN! Tickets to The Festival of Quilts

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On-trend pattern pack Receive 24 Mettler threads when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 30 for further info

PROJECTS

78 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 80 Save 40% on the Ginger Jeans pattern 84 Fabric focus – Save 20% on Liberty Tana lawn 86 SHARE YOUR VIEWS & WIN! 87 In the good books 88 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 96 Coming next issue

19 Your free McCall’s pattern gift – cold-shoulder tops, tunic & dress 24 Pitch perfect tent cushion 26 Bolt from the blue wrap skirt 36 Plus one baby quilt 44 Sew wonderful travel kit 62 Tough as leather cross-body bag 69 Sunny side up tunic dress by Alison Smith MBE 81 Bag for good suede handbag 92 Spot on ruffle T-shirt 98 Sweet dreams zakka sleep mask

Find us online

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk /lovesewingmag

36 Editorial Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Art Editor Simon Kay Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz eCommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Distribution Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd Tel 0844 826 0613

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

14 62

Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Leather bag sewing masterclass!

Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc

CONTRIBUTORS Alison Smith MBE

Janelle Mackay

Julia Claridge

Rosanna Gethin

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison shares her couture skills as a Love Sewing columnist. To celebrate the 2nd edition of Alison’s The Sewing Book make the gorgeous linen dress on page 69. To join one of her exclusive courses visit www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Julia is the creative brains behind www.bobbinsnbuttons. co.uk. A former fashion designer, she now hosts sewing classes, designs paper patterns for children and runs a wonderful online fabric shop. In this issue Julia shares a fun ruffle tee project on page 92.

Head to page 10 to learn about Janelle’s growing bag-making supply and pattern design company in Canada then try her Miss Maggie’s handbag project on page 81. For bag hardware, patterns, top tips and free tutorials, make sure to visit www.emmalinebags.com

Rosanna has long had a love affair with leather handbags and shared lovely leather wares at rosannaclaredesigns. etsy.com! We chat about her new book Sew Luxe Leather on page 87. Can’t get enough? Make the contrast crossbody bag on page 62 with fun tassel zipper pull!

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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

Stretch your skills Available in four different sizes, the Ash set from Megan Nielsen offers the ultimate choice in stretch jean patterns. Choose from skinny, flare, slim and wide legs and there are even options for tall, regular and cropped styles to suit all occasions. For an in-depth guide to choosing your denim and step-by-step guides to customising your jeans, don’t forget to have a read through the blog too! Size: 24-36” waist Price: $21.12 (approximately £15.56) PDF download at www.megannielsen.com

FAIRYTALE

FABRIC Starring the Arthurian heroine Guinevere, this collection of new cotton fabric from Riley Blake Designs is perfect for any princess in the making. It includes an enchanting selection of unicorns, magical castles and vintage florals with lashings of pink and gold. It’s ideal for summer dresses or cute cushions and quilts for little kids’ bedrooms. Shop: Find your nearest stockist at www.eqsuk.com

Pin -up icon

Wear your love of sewing loud and proud with one of these fab new enamel pins from Pink Coat Club! We love how they look like those head boy and girl badges you used to get at school, and the bright colours are sure to stand out on any jacket or bag. Price: £7 each from www.sewme sunshine.co.uk

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FOR THE LOVE OF PRINT Queen of gorgeous patterns Orla Kiely has opened up her archives to share the evolution of her print designs, encompassing her beautiful homeware, fabric, fashion and more! A Life in Pattern ties in with the exhibition of the same name held at The Fashion and Textile Museum in London, which is open until 23rd September if you’d like to see Orla’s iconic designs up close. Price: £25 from www.conranshop.co.uk

Stitchers gonna

STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor

CLUB TROPICANA I’m channelling those summer holiday vibes after our recent heatwave and I couldn’t resist a tropical hoop! This cross stitch pattern includes a fabulous flamingo, toucan and palm leaves and is available to download for £4.15 from www.luckystarstitches. etsy.com

TASTE OF ITALY

SUMMER LOVIN’

Want to jazz up your summer wardrobe but you’re a bit short on time? Check out this fun Endless Summer iron-on embroidered patch! Available for $9 (approximately £6.63) at www. bando.com

Join superstar stitcher Jane Greenoff on a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Assisi, Italy to explore ancient embroidery traditions. Author, designer and founder of The Cross Stitch Guild, Jane will be holding a series of workshops to introduce you to counted cross stitch, with private classes by local experts, guided walking tours and the chance to spend an incredible week with like-minded stitchers just like you! When: 15th – 21st September Where: Assisi, staying at the 4-star Hotel Giotti Assisi Prices: From £1,699. To find out more, go to www.sewandso.co.uk

GO FOR GOLD

Wow, how awesome are these 24k goldplated pineapple embroidery scissors? Yes, you read that sentence right, they’re made of gold! Pick up yours for £9.75 from www. cloudcraft.co.uk

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Fluorescent FUN

Sport’s day

WIN!

Turn to PAGE 61 to find out more

Sewing your own activewear means you can make it fit to your shape and ensure it’s super comfy for all of your sporty plans. Technical polyamide is made up of a mix of polyamide and elastane and boasts a two-way stretch and a lovely smooth, strong finish. It can be used for everything from dance leggings to running vests or even swimwear – just in time for the summer holidays! Shop: For a huge range of sports and dancewear fabric, head to www.fabricsforsale.co.uk

PAWS FOR THOUGHT

The Little Friends Cat Bag is a simple pattern, designed to be fun to sew for adults and kids alike. The PDF pattern includes a full tutorial on how to sew this lovely lined bag, as well as an all-important embroidery guide to show you how to master a cute feline face in no time. Once you’ve made your kitty bag, don’t forget to look through the site for lots more other animals as there are many to collect! The whole project is designed to be made in under two hours, making it ideal for summer holiday sewing. Price: Free to download from www.belowthekowhai.nz

FREE

PATTERN!

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Stand out from the crowd with the eye-poppingly bright Sew All Neon Thread from Gütermann. Each pack contains six luminous colours in 100m reels, as well as a bonus white reel. It’s great for adding a contrasting topstitch on garments or bags, or for introducing bold quilting lines to your next home décor make. Price: £10.95 per pack. For stockist information, contact gütermann@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

CUTE AS A

button After you’ve spent hours sewing a garment, it’s all about those finishing touches. Why not treat your new shirtdress, jacket or blouse to some handmade porcelain buttons? UK ceramic artist Shirley Vauvelle has hand-rolled, fired and glazed each of her one-of-a-kind buttons so that each one is unique and guaranteed to add character to your next project. Price: From £2.50 per button, exclusively at www. shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

TRENCH CONNECTION

Take note

Keep a note of all your measurements, fabric amounts and work-inprogress makes with this charming little notebook from Oh Hello. It’s covered in sewing tools and materials, meaning it won’t get mixed up with your other jotters! Price: £4.95 at www.notonthehighstreet.com

In a loose and comfortable fit, the Jack Trench Coat ticks all of our transitional jacket boxes. It’s ideal for those days when the weather can’t make up its mind, with big curved lapels, a gathered collar and a self-tied waist. Designed for lightweight fabric which drapes well such as gabardine, cupro or a cotton-tencel blend, opt for a classic tan or oatmeal shade, or perhaps pick out a mustard or rusty orange to give it a fun summer feel. Size: 32-46 (UK 4-18) Price: €8.50 (approximately £7.49) from www.readytosew.fr

F O T OU AFRICA This summer, we want to incorporate big, bold prints into our me-made wardrobes. With rich colours and beautiful designs, African prints and batiks can help you to inject some real personality and fun into your garments. For a wide selection of modern African fabric we love Urban Stax, who endeavours to source all its textiles, manufactured or handmade, on the African continent, featuring fabric from Ghana, South Africa, Nigeria and Ivory Coast. Make sure to check out the blog for inspiration and tips on sewing with its gorgeous collection of fabric. Price: From £10 per metre at www.urbanstax.com

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15 MINUTES WITH...

JANELLE

MacKay

This month, we catch up with the queen of bag making and woman behind Emmaline Bags Be honest, how many handbags do you own? Honestly, I don’t have a lot of bags that I use! I have samples of all of my bags that are made from my patterns, but those are to use as display samples – although there are about 25 of those, I don’t use them. For personal use, I usually carry a bag made from one of my pattern designs, and when I find something that suits, I just stick with it. I’ve been carrying a herringbone tweed Prairie Girl bag for over a year!

Janelle

hether you’re a bag making pro or a ‘bag-inner’, Janelle MacKay has got you covered! We chatted to Janelle to discover what it is about sewing bags that makes her so excited and what tips she has for anyone looking to make pretty and practical arm candy. Hi Janelle, how are you today? What’s on your sewing table this week? Hey there! Today I’m working on a final draft for a new pattern that I’ll be teaching soon in Wales at a bag-making retreat put on by Samantha of Sewing Patterns by Mrs H. There will be about 30 bag makers there, and we’ll spend the weekend sewing projects, enjoying wonderful chats and eating fantastic food. This bag will be a shoulder bag with two zipper pockets on the top that fold over and I really can’t wait to share it. Tell us, what is it you love about sewing bags? It’s really hard to say exactly what I love, because I love the whole process. I love sewing and creating and I love it that bags go together so quickly, with such fantastic results (most of the time!).

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You run a real one-stop shop for all things bag making, what inspired you to start selling your patterns and hardware? After years of quilting, I tried making a few bags and became hooked instantly. I hear that a lot from many of my customers. Bags can be such a quick and satisfying sew! Pattern design started right away after my first couple of bags, because I was thinking of features and designs that I needed for myself and just started putting them together. I have some garment-sewing and patternreading experience from years back, so I just started writing. I hoped that someone else might find my designs useful as well, and I really fell in love with the whole design and writing process. The hardware came from necessity though as, back in 2011 when I started bag making, there weren’t a lot of supplies available. Bags are a quick I wanted to progress and satisfying sew to hardware items that were more than just O-rings and magnetic snaps, so I started getting them made to go with my patterns. I really wanted my customers to be able to find the hardware they needed for my patterns, so it was necessary for me to supply those

ABOUT

The stunning Gabby Bag

Janelle MacKay Janelle runs a growing bagmaking supply and pattern design company in Canada. For bag hardware, patterns, top tips and free tutorials, go to www.emmalinebags.com

products too. Who knew I would soon have a bag hardware addiction?! What’s the one piece of bag hardware no sewist should be without? I think every sewist needs to have a magnetic snap at the ready. You can sew on straps, you can skip the bling, but it’s essential that the bag or wallet is closed securely. Working with a magnetic snap is a great way to get started with bag hardware. They are easy to install and can be used on almost any project. If you had to choose a favourite of your bag patterns, which would it be and why? My favourite pattern always seems to be the one I just made. The bag I’m working on at the moment, which still doesn’t have a name, is perfect for me, but I also really like carrying the Prairie Girl bag. It’s really my style. What trends are you noticing in bag makers at the moment? Bag makers are going crazy over cork fabric and vinyl lately. I think because of the popularity of bag making, many fabric suppliers are stocking great vinyl more suitable for this purpose. Cork is so easy to sew and work with. It’s beautiful and soft and a great alternative to leather.

Who knew I would soon have a bag hardware addiction?!

As far as styles go, classic designs are still very popular, with mini handbags and backpacks used instead of handbags being a very fun trend. The world has become much smaller thanks to the internet and online shopping, so I think the popularity of

styles isn’t as specific to each country as it might have been in the past. Accessories are a very personal choice, so there is a huge array of styles popular at any one time.

Accessories – the ideal finishing touch

Finally, do you have any exciting plans over the next few months that you’d like to share? We have some exciting plans for our business, which might be in place early this summer. I hope that if you follow our Facebook page or website, you might see us announce the opening of our retail store! We are in the process of looking for a nice commercial space that will allow us to have more room to grow our inventory, as well as provide a small retail showroom for local bag makers. It’s still in the planning stages, but we are looking forward to this new opportunity for growth. It seems like the next logical step for us. Janelle's favourite, The

Double Flip Shoulder Bag

The versatile Luxie-Lunch Bag

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MACHINE

REVIEW

Frank Nutt is a marketleading provider of sewing machines, this month we take a look at its impressive range of Bernina models www.franknutt.co.uk

BEST FOR ENTHUSIASTIC BEGINNERS

BERNINA ACTIVA 215 SIMPLY RED This machine not only looks the part but boasts many impressive features that make it a great introductory model for beginners. Enjoy optimal control during sewing with the practical speed controller that can reduce the tempo by half, allowing you to make intermittent adjustments without compromising on quality. The machine hosts many commonly used stitches that can be easily selected via large icons on the keypad display, and as you become more confident you can take advantage of the powerful motor that will allow you to glide through thick and multi-layered fabric quickly. Likewise, the handy needle stop up/down button will give you optimal precision when repositioning your projects. This is a technologically advanced yet accessible machine suitable for beginners and casual sewists.

Lorna

UNDE

£500

BEST FOR EMBELLISHING

UNDER

£2,000 BEST FOR BEST FOR GADGET LOVERS

BERNINA 770QE A highly accomplished and intuitive machine, this model is built to offer sewists advanced technical choreography while ensuring features are easy to navigate and control. Let the machine decipher the best thread tension for every stitch and ensure your stitching is done with precision and ease. You'll appreciate the automatic lowering of the presser foot at the beginning of the seams and the semi-automatic threading system allowing for a brisk set-up. The machine can be adapted for a multitude of projects, including quilting and embroidery, and comes with a 10" free-arm extension that is ideal when you’re working on larger projects. Stitches can be set to a whopping 9mm width and if you’re looking for speed, the powerful motor can process an incredible 1,000 stitches per minute!

Amy

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Bethany

BERNINA 580 With over 800 built-in stitches, including 186 decorative stitches and several alphabet stitches the Bernina 580 is a machine built for ambitious sewists eager to develop their skills and expand their creative horizons. Creating embellishments is a breeze with the nifty embroidery mode that offers easy access to 100 designs, all of which can be rotated, mirrored and adjusted in size at the touch of a button. If you’ve created unique stitch patterns or combinations, the in-built memory function will store your settings even after the machine has been switched off! For night owls, the bright TFT touchscreen means you can sew into the wee hours. The machine also boasts Bernina’s patented stitch regulator function, working at different speeds without needing to change the stitch length. What more could you need?

ND AROU

£3,000

Everyone deserves a Introducing the new Singer Fashion Mate machines The Singer 3333, 3337 and 3342 Fashion Mate include: ✽ Up to 32 Built-In Stitches ✽ 1-Step & 4-Step Buttonholes ✽ Built-in needle threader ✽ Top drop-in bobbin ✽ STAYBRIGHT™ LED Light ✽ Adjustable Stitch Length ✽ Heavy Duty Metal Frame ✽ Free arm ✽ On-board storage ✽ A range of free accessories

PRICE FROM

£169

Machine pictured is the SINGER® FASHION MATE™ 3337.

The world’s favourite sewing machines

Tradition

Join us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @singersewinguk

www.singerco.co.uk

Sewing room

SWOON We chat to blogger and sewist Vicki Wright about her beautiful sewing room and clever storage solutions

y happy space certainly isn’t big, and it doesn't even have its own walls, but it's a little spot I love to call my own. Sitting against the back wall of our living room, my crafting space is the first sight to greet me as I walk through the door – it melts my stress with one glance! I’m never lonely in my space, I relish the noise of my fella typing away on his laptop or the hum of the TV behind me as I sew. I have filled my space with colourful, smile-inducing treasures: a painting of Bath, cards and letters from loved ones, beautiful trim and notions and there is always a bunch of fresh flowers. My machines, a Janome Atelier 3 and a Brother 1034D overlocker, sit side-by-side awaiting a moment of inspiration. The two chairs hold a special place in my heart as they were the first DIY project we undertook having purchased our cottage last summer. We found them in a local reclamation centre, sanded them down and painted them with the most vibrant colours we could find. My paper patterns are kept in wooden crates, painted to match, and my PDF patterns reside in plastic wallets in brightly coloured boxes under the desk. I’ve tied the space

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A day spent here is a day filled with peace and satisfaction. I treasure every moment

ABOUT

Vicki Wright Vicki is also known as her sewing alter-ego SewVee. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a talented sewist and blogger living in Oxford who injects colour and personality into every garment she makes! Take a look at Vicki's gorgeous makes using African wax cotton at www.sewvee.blogspot.co.uk and www.instagram.com/sewvee

together with the rest of the living room using matching me-made cushions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the whole room features pinks, blues with pops of yellow. Like many crafters, I own an Ikea desk. The drawers are spacious and packed to the brim with craft supplies. I keep spare needles, machine feet, bobbins and my quick unpick in the short top drawer for easy access. Everything I need for my favourite pastime. I can honestly say a day spent here is a day filled with peace and satisfaction. I treasure every moment.

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PATTERN

INDIE Boost your wardrobe with this exclusive discount on all patterns from Dragonfly Fabrics!

SAVE 20%

on ALL patterns at www. dragonflyfabrics.co.uk with discount code LOVESEW20*

Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dress

Deer and Doe Luzerne Trench A trench coat is always on trend and the perfect statement piece for your home-sewn wardrobe. Deer and Doe's chic Luzerne Trench offers lots of opportunity to develop your skills and would look great in light to medium-weight twill or gabardine. Sizes 34 to 46 (printed), priced at ÂŁ14.90.

Downtime dressing has never been more simple with Cleo. This on-trend dungaree dress would be lovely in coloured denim, corduroy or canvas, and you can swap the buckles for bright buttons if you prefer an extra pop of colour! Sizes 6-20, currently priced ÂŁ12.50

SAVE 20% on ALL patterns at www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk before 5th July 2018. P&P charges still apply

Colette Patterns Laurel Dress There's a reason tunic dresses never go out of style; their flattering silhouette is a great wardrobe staple! The Laurel may be an older pattern from the range but was ahead of the frilled-cuff trend! Sizes 0-18, currently priced £10.40

Papercut Patterns Kochi Kimono Always feeling the chill? We recommend this chic coverup that's perfect all year round! This kimono top works in everything from wool to silk so it looks and feels amazing to wear. Sizes XXS-XL, currently priced £19.50.

Don't miss

Join our jeans sew-along on PAGE 78! Sew your dream jeans with Alison Smith MBE

Cashmerette Concord T-shirt Closet Case Patterns Morgan Boyfriend Jeans There's no need to fear jeans with the wealth of wonderful patterns on offer. If you like a slouchy style rather than super skinny, this is a pattern for you. Sizes 0-20, currently priced £16.50.

Meet the ULTIMATE T-shirt pattern for curvy ladies. Choose from three hem lengths, three necklines, three sleeve lengths, plus two sleeve finishes and optional sleeve tabs. Cashmerette really has thought of everything! Sizes 12-28 (Cup sizes C/D, E/F, G/H), currently priced £16. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17

F420 The Innov-is F420 is packed with a huge range of features including 140 stitches, lettering, lock stitch button, automatic thread cutter, and Square Feed Drive System for strong, smooth, even sewing on all types of fabric.

Create your own style

55FE The feature-packed Innov-is 55 Fashion Edition will shape your fashion dreams into reality. 81 stitches including 10 one step button hole styles plus lettering together with the included 12 accessory feet make this an excellent all round machine.

27SE The Innov-is 27SE offers fantastic versatility for both the beginner and experienced sewer. With fingertip controls, 50 stitches including 5 one step button hole styles and a protective hard case; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ideal for all kinds of sewing.

brothersewing.co.uk

Your free

GIFT

Dare to

BARE This on-trend pattern pack helps you create the perfect amount of coverage with just a peek of cold shoulder. Choose from multiple lengths, sleeve styles, plus optional pockets and straps to customise your look

This quick and fun top doesn't need a lot of fabric so it's perfect for any small yardage you've been hoarding in your stash!

We used:

Moving On Lawns Floral Spring Amulet cotton lawn, ÂŁ12.50 per metre www.sewhot.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 19

Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN WORTH £8.95 WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 30 for details

We love the curved hem on this tunic. Plus the bow cuff sleeves are swoonworthy. Can you believe there are pockets as well?

We used:

Deborah Tana cotton lawn, £17 per metre www.sewbox.co.uk See page 84 for an exclusive discount!

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Amy says...

MASTERCLASS

FRENCH SEAMS Sewing secure seams on your free McCall's top is easy with our top tips! This top, tunic and dress pattern works best in lightweight fabric like cotton lawn, viscose and chambray; fabric that likes to fray! We recommend super-strong French seams. Match the pieces with WRONG sides together, sew the seams with ¼” seam allowance. Trim any excess.

Remember the finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue! This helps you pick the perfect size Drapey fabric is a great pairing for this pattern as it gathers easily at the elasticated top and skims your body nicely

We used:

Red strawberryprint polyester, £3.85 per metre www.adamross fabrics.co.uk

first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

Press the seams open, then arrange the pieces RST. Press closed and sew the seam again, this time at a 3⁄8" seam allowance. first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

The raw edges should now be encapsulated neatly in the seam.

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M7789

Available from fabric stores and websites countrywide. Or visit www.sewdirect.com

Create It!

w e i v e R r e d a e RMcCall's 7543 Alexandra Bruce, creator of the vlog www.youtube.com/sewhappy shares her version of this issue’s McCall's free gift

his is the perfect pattern for injecting some key summer pieces into your home-sewn wardrobe, with three breezy options to take you from a park stroll to Pimm's o’clock!

It was hard for me to choose just one option as I could see myself wearing the dress on my summer holidays with a great pair of wedges. I decided to make option A, given its on-trend gathered sleeves and wide straps, perfect with jeans for sunny Sundays in the city. I paired the pattern with a stunning cotton from the Indie Folk collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. I love the print’s colourful splashes of hot pink, turquoise and mustard that give this breezy top a great 70s twist. The fabric came from www. guthrie-ghani.co.uk and arrived wrapped in tissue with a handwritten note – how luxurious! The fabric was wonderful for this pattern as it pressed well and has a good drape. I made size large (16/18), and shortening the straps and amount of elastic in the channel were

the only alterations I made. The recommended elastic length was too long, making the top feel less secure along my shoulders. Shortening the elastic by 2½" gave a much better fit along my shoulders. This also applied to the shoulder straps that come at a longer length than needed, so they can be altered to the desired length, depending how much shoulder you’d like to show off! But they were a good width for covering bra straps and to keep the top from riding up or down. The pattern instructions were clear with good indications between each style option and the construction illustrations were nicely paced, avoiding information overload. It was a nice speedy make, taking just an afternoon, and is great for a last-minute holiday make!

In issue 55 Christina of Gussets & Godets reviews M7714

Say hello to Alex on Instagram sewhappy_alex www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

We love

HOME

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 43x13cm brown checked fabric • 43x22.5cm cloud-print fabric • from larger to smaller tents 15x17cm, 13x15cm, 10x11.5cm, 9x10.5cm assorted fabric • 2 25x43cm cotton pieces for the back • 8x13cm cloud fabric • 15x55cm fusible web • 34x43cm wadding • 34x43cm cotton for the lining • 1.6m 3cm-wide double-fold bias tape OR enough fabric to make your own • basting spray • 15cm 3mm-wide suede strips in 4 colours • decorative label (optional) • blue 3766, dark pink 760, dark blue 519 & light pink 151 DMC Stranded Cotton • white 8 DMC Perle thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Finished size approximately 34x43cm

ABOUT THE BOOK

Made for Baby Cute Sewn Gifts by Ayda Algın, £14.95, Tuva Publishing

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

PITCH perfect

Mix pretty prints and appliqué to create this eye-catching camping-themed cushion Project AYDA ALGIN

Bethany says...

MASTERCLASS

FLAWLESS FINISH

I love how this cushion can take on a whole new look depending on the fabric you choose!

The finished look of a bound corner all depends on how you fold your bias strip. Follow our guide to getting crisp corners!

Too long

WS RS

Corner too sharp

HOW TO MAKE:

Too short

WS RS

Corner too round

seconds to fuse. Repeat for Sew the brown checked the cloud. fabric and the cloud fabric Sew around the appliquĂŠs RST, aligning the long close to the edges with a edges. Press seams open. narrow zigzag stitch. Copy the tent patterns Lay the lining fabric WS up, and prepare the templates place the wadding on top of it, using thin cardboard. and finally the pillow front, right Apply fusible web to side up. Fasten these layers to the back of the tent and each other with basting spray cloud fabric, following the or pins. Sew a running stitch manufacturer's directions. around the tents using three Place the tent templates strands of cotton and the cloud on the paper backing of using DMC thread. each piece, trace around, and cut on the traced lines. Repeat for the cloud. Cut suede strips into four equal pieces. Lay the front piece RS Bias binding tools make up. Peel off folding and pressing selfthe backing made bias tape a breeze, paper on the and they come in a tent appliquĂŠs, range of widths place them on the pillow front, tuck the suede strips underneath the tip of each tent, and press with a hot iron for a few

Secure the suede strips by making decorative wraps on their joining points to the tent tops. You can hand-stitch any pattern you like on the tents. We embroidered the first two tents following their fabric patterns. Fasten the label to the pillow top on the RS. To finish the back, fold back the long edge of one piece of backing fabric inwards by 2cm and press. Fold the same edge inwards one more time, press and top-stitch next to the edge. Repeat with the second piece of backing fabric. Lay down the pillow front WS up, then the back pieces RS up on top of it, aligning all raw edges, and pin. Sew all the way around and turn inside out through the opening at the back. To finish, sew shopbought or self-made bias tape around the pillow. We machine sewed one edge of the bias tape to the front and fastened the other edge to the back by hand.

Top tip

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 25

We love

STYLE

Bolt from the

BLUE This simple wraparound skirt is both easy to make and easy to wear, and the perfect choice for hot summer days! Project NICOLA GOULDSMITH

26 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ undyed fabric (see how to calculate fabric, below) â&#x20AC;˘ 2 4x6xÂžâ&#x20AC;? (10x15x2cm) pieces of wood â&#x20AC;˘ string â&#x20AC;˘ prepared indigo vat (see right) â&#x20AC;˘ rubber gloves & apron â&#x20AC;˘ bowls for soaking & rinsing â&#x20AC;˘ white household vinegar â&#x20AC;˘ washing detergent â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: This tutorial is drafted based on your personal measurements so no size chart is provided There are no seams, only hems, so follow the directions for the correct stitch settings Finish the raw edges on an overlocker, or using an overcast or zigzag stitch to prevent your garment fraying

HOW TO MAKE: Decide how long you want the skirt to be and measure from your waist to this point. Add 3â&#x20AC;? (8cm) for the top and bottom hems and another 6â&#x20AC;? (15cm) for the waist ties. Measure one and a half times around your waist and add on 3â&#x20AC;? (8cm) for

the side hems. Cut the fabric to these measurements. Fold the fabric into vertical pleats, then pleat again across the width. This will produce a checked pattern. The folded piece should be slightly wider than your pieces of wood â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the amount of fabric exposed at the sides, top and bottom will dictate how broad or narrow your stripes will be. Place the pleated fabric between the two pieces of wood. Tie string tightly around the wood-andfabric sandwich. (See Pic A.) Soak it in cold, clean water for a few hours. The wood will float, so weigh it down with something like a brick. (See Pic B.) Squeeze as much water out of the fabric as possible. Dip it into the indigo vat by sliding the prepared fabric down the side of the pan; remember, you are aiming to disturb the surface as little as possible. (See Pic C.) Remove after a few moments, letting the excess dye dribble back into the vat with as little splashing as possible.

MASTERCLASS

INDIGO DYES SUPPLIES: â&#x20AC;˘ 1oz (25g) indigo powder to dye 4Â˝lb (2kg) of fabric â&#x20AC;˘ spectralite â&#x20AC;˘ 1Âź pint (600ml) warm water â&#x20AC;˘ large glass jar with screw-top lid â&#x20AC;˘ 5Âźoz (150g) soda ash â&#x20AC;˘ jug â&#x20AC;˘ litmus paper (to test pH level) â&#x20AC;˘ large pan approximately 4x6xÂžâ&#x20AC;? (10x15x2cm) with lid

PREPARE THE VAT: Place the indigo powder in the jar with three teaspoons (15ml) of spectralite and a little of the warm water. Stir well to make a paste, then mix in Â˝ pint (200ml) of the warm water. Add the soda ash to the rest of the warm water in a jug and stir well. Add the soda ash solution to the indigo solution a little at a time, using the litmus paper to check the pH level after each addition. Stop adding the soda solution when the desired pH is reached. Cover the jar by placing the lid on loosely and set it aside in a warm place for

the solution to develop (it must be kept warm for this to happen). This will take 30-40 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the large vat by filling a large pan twothirds full with warm water and adding 1tsp (5ml) of spectralite to it. Keep this pan covered and warm. The indigo solution in the jar is ready when you can see both a metallic blue layer on the surface and a yellow liquid beneath. This is due to the dye on the surface of the vat reacting with oxygen in the air; the liquid below remains yellow because it is not in contact with any oxygen. Add the indigo solution to the spectralite solution by lowering the jar into the vat; do not pour the indigo solution in, as pouring could cause splashing, which would introduce oxygen into the vat. Leave the vat covered and warm for an hour. It is ready to use when the surface of the vat is covered in metallic blue bubbles with an oily appearance.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 27

ABOUT THE BOOK

Shibori: the Art of Indigo Dyeing by Nicola Gouldsmith (CICO Books)

Allow the dyed fabric to air – still clamped between the wood – opening the edges of the pleats to allow oxygen to develop the dye. Repeat the dipping process if you want a deeper shade of blue, airing and allowing the dye to develop each time. With the fabric still clamped and tied, rinse well in several changes of cold, clean water, adding vinegar to the final rinse. (See Pic D.)

Cut the tied string and remove the wood. Unfold the pleated fabric, wash in detergent and allow to dry. Trim any frayed edges. Measure and cut a strip of fabric 6” (15cm) deep from one long edge. (See Pic E.) Fold this strip of fabric in half lengthwise and then fold both raw edges under and stitch close to the fold. (See Pic F.) Cut this in half to create two ties. Turn a double ¾” (2cm) hem along both side edges and along the bottom hem of the skirt. Using the zigzag setting on your machine, sew along the top of the skirt. (See Pic G.) Turn the zigzag edge over to the WS of the skirt, creating a hem of 2” (5cm) and insert the end of one tie into each end of the waist channel, as shown. Straight-stitch with the sewing machine down each short side of the channel, trapping the ties in place, and along the long edge, just above the zigzag stitching. (See Pic H.) Voila! You’re ready to wear your skirt!

Lorna says...

If you're short on time or space, skip the dyeing stages and whip up a new skirt in ready-printed fabric!

28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

SHOP OF THE

SEW BUSY Fleet, Hampshire

This month, we speak to the team at Sew Busy in Hampshire to find out more about the day-to-day running of this vibrant fabric and haberdashery shop Hi there! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today? Hello! Today we’ve had a class with five ladies learning the art of giant knitting. We've had four deliveries and have been serving lots of customers, too! Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop I had always dreamed of opening a fabric shop with a vintage vibe, and life circumstances made me reevaluate my career choice as an accountant. A shop unit had become available in my local town so, along with some redundancy funds, Sew Busy was born! Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist? We use the Janome CXL301 in our

Nicola

classroom and I would highly recommend it for a beginner if only for the speed control! It’s good for experienced sewists, too. Have you had any particularly memorable moments with customers in store? The most memorable moment so far was when a customer nominated us to the Honours Department and we received an invitation to a royal garden party! What sets you apart from other shops? We like to think we offer an exceptional customer service – you’ll often find us delivering goods to locals who can’t get out or rummaging around the shelves for the perfect colour match for a customer’s project. Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about? You will find us at Thread Festival in Farnham on 30th June, which is an exciting, busy event which we love to be involved in. There are so many talented artists displaying and selling their products.

Visit us!

SEW BUSY The Hart Centre, Fleet Hampshire GU51 3LA 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29

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The Dressmaker's With Elisalex

DIARY Step into summer with Elisalex’s inspiring list of patterns and songs to get your creative sewing juices flowing

onestly, I couldn’t have picked a better day to write this column. It’s the morning after the hottest May bank holiday on record, the temperature is 24°C and climbing and there's not a cloud in the sky. It was hot and boring at home so I’ve come to my local cafe to work over a decaf (I quit coffee last year, but still miss the taste every day) and a fresh orange juice as I people watch and think about my summer sewing plans. (I love my job.) I’m playing a game of matching sewing patterns to RTW garments, and it gets me focusing on what I want to be wearing this summer. I’m sitting on the cafe’s front terrace, enjoying the glorious weather, scrolling around on Instagram and Pinterest (for research of course!), eating a slice of banana cake and putting together a little nostalgic summer 2018 playlist while I note down all things I want to sew over the coming months. (I really love my job.) Why don’t we play together…?

When someone goes by wearing an outfit that catches my eye, I analyse the patterns I would use and what alterations I would make in order to recreate that look. A pair of yummy mummies walked past, one wearing a pair of softly crinkled blush linen culottes and immediately I imagined making them with our Holly trousers pattern. The other wore a floral button-down dress that reminds me

32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Peak T-shirt from Wendy Ward's A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics

Myosotis dress shop.deer-and-doe.fr

of Mimi G’s Jessica dress. There’s the most adorable-looking lady on the table opposite me wearing a short kimono dress with an elasticated waist – a wide sleeve hack of Tilly’s Bettine dress for sure. Needless to say this game works just as well when I’m browsing online, or watching movies, or drooling over Met Gala outfits and fantasising how I could recreate them with sewing patterns.

Having narrowed it down to what feels like a manageable and cohesive list, this summer I will mostly be sewing: Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress – aka the new summer dress of dreams. With girly gathers, comfy loose waist, in-seam pockets it has all you could want from a frock on a hot and sticky day. I’m already online hunting for the perfect broderie anglaise cotton for this dress! Closet Case Patterns Charlie Caftan – Remember last summer when Closet Case Patterns launched its Charlie Caftan pattern on the eve of the biggest heatwave we’d had all year? Talk about perfect timing.

I was one of the keen beans who bought the pattern and cut my fabric (a vintage voile sari) right away, but got held up by something else more pressing. Before I knew it the heatwave was over and I no longer had any immediate need for a caftan. So considering that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got the whole thing cut and ready to go, plus a trip to the Dominican Republic coming up, the Charlie Caftan is high priority on my summer sewing list. By Hand London Flora Dress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; last summer saw a revival of our Flora pattern and it reminded me how much I love that pattern, despite not having sewn it in ages! I think this year it will be the one traditional sundress I allow myself to sew (I just have too many!) and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to straight up copy Kate Evaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fluttery cap-sleeve hack and make it in baby pink gingham cotton Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been hoarding since last year. It is going to be too cute.

Flora Dress hack by www.kateevadesigns.wordpress.com

Top tip!

have time! Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be making Use natural fibres like these in a super-soft By Hand London Sabrina linen, cotton washed blush linen, Dress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; another beaut that and viscose worn over a white Peak Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d forgotten about; once for breathability T-shirt and heading again proving that we pattern straight to the countryside for designers are waaaaay ahead of some farmyard frolicking. the times, as everyone seems to be rocking 90s slip dresses right now! A billowing daygown â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is basically a Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll wear the button-down spaghetti-strap dressing gown that doubles up (and totally variation over a gorgeous crisp white Peak passes) as a dress. With billowy sleeves, T-shirt (below). mid-calf length and a belted wrap front it's easy-wearing fabulousness, inspired Wendy Ward's Peak T-shirt â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve already by glamorous 50s house coats. This one made one of these loose-fitting, almost will be self drafted, but you boyfriend-style T-shirts from Wendy Wardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s could easily make something latest book A Beginnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to Sewing similar from any dressing with Knitted Fabrics, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve worn it at least gown pattern; just remember once a week since, so I know I need more of to exaggerate the volume by these in my life. making it more A-line at the side seams and wider at the Sew House 7 Burnside Bibs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had the sleeves coming into a delicate pattern and fabric ready for this project for elasticated cuff. Structured a while now, but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not beating myself up printed cotton will lend drama because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clearly a summer make so I still and breathability.

Burnside bibs www.sewhouse7.com

Sewing playlist

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex is the head of design and co-founder of By Hand London, an independent pattern company. It produces gorgeously designed, highquality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

And what about that summer playlist I hear you cry! I love making seasonal playlists almost as much as I like making seasonal sewing lists. I like to think of my musical taste as eclectic, melodic and nostalgic. Not particularly modern, but hopefully a sweet mix of familiar favourites and obscure gems that will set the hazy, languid tone for the slow summer days to come.

Beach Boys 409 Jackie DeShannon When That You Walk In The Room Fur Not Enough Bnny Rbbt Big World The Cryinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Shames Please Stay Jewell & The Rubies Kidnapper Fats Domino Kansas City Al Green I Canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Get Next To You The Martinis Yours Until Tomorrow Phyllis Dillon Perfidia Rolling Stones Just Your Fool The Crystals Then He Kissed Me Johnny Thunders Born To Lose Doris Troy Just One Look The Pogues Dirty Old Town Tommy McLain Before I Grow Too Old www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

SWATCH SELECTOR

/n the Navy

Nautical but nice, these fabulous fabrics are sure to help your next block look ship shape

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

hip ahoy! Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve picked nautical-themed fabric for your quilting, crafty and sartorial makes, suitable for sea lovers of all ages. Many of this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s choices are also on a wider cotton base cloth so more fabric for your money â&#x20AC;&#x201C; never a bad thing. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve opted for a classic nautical colour palette with lots of primary red, blue and a dash of sunny yellow. Anna Bondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Rifle Paper Co) fabric designs for Cotton + Steel have proved incredibly popular and her latest collection, Amalfi, is inspired by Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Amalfi coast. Sun Girls features her signature painterly style and captures a world of glamour and travel. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a big fan of chambray, especially for clothing, but it works well in quilting projects too. Fabrics Galore has a few varieties of medium-weight cotton chambray stripe and the tiny embroidered anchors are an understated use of a familiar nautical motif. The traditional sailboats quilt block uses common quilting shapes to make an easy nautical block. You can find full instructions to sew up a range of finished sizes at www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/sailboat-quilt-block-pattern.html

Shopping list

34 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Amalfi, Sun Girls in Sky, by Anna Bond from Rifle Paper Company for Cotton + Steel, ÂŁ4.20 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Best of Sarah Jane, My Favourite Ship, by Sarah Jane for Michael Miller ÂŁ3.75 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk Big Spot Cotton, in Scarlett, 150cm wide, ÂŁ6 per 0.5m, www.fabricsgalore.co.uk Anchor Chambray, Blue Stripe, embroidered anchors, 137cm wide, ÂŁ6 per 0.5m, www.fabricsgalore.co.uk The Happy Whales Fabric, Soft Aqua Whales on Turquoise Ground, 160cm wide ÂŁ5.95 per 0.5m, www.textilesfrancais.co.uk Paintbox Basics, Anemone in Nature, by Elizabeth Hartman for Robert Kaufman, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ, www.eternalmaker.com Set Sail, Into the Sunset in Apple Red, by Jay-Cyn Designs for Birch Organic, ÂŁ4 per FQ, www.eternalmaker.com Yucatan, Deep Sea Mountains, by Annie Brady for Moda, ÂŁ3.80 per FQ, www. misformake.co.uk

Request your free fabric catalogue today!

Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing@ btconnect.com Ample free parking Very close to picturesque Rutland Water Coffee shop on site Classes and workshops Also training for sewing machines, Pfaff embroidery machines, Premier Plus Software & all makes of overlockers Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm Closed Mondays

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35 TM72-Love-Sewing-HPV-90x266mm-v1-outlines.indd 1

05/03/2018 15:36:16

We love

KIDS

Plus

ONE

Use your favourite fat quarters to create a one-of-a-kind baby quilt or easy throw with a fun plus design

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ fat eighth bundle of print fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 0.75m white fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 0.25m (long quarter) binding fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 1m backing fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 38" square wadding

Project KATY JONES

CUTTING: From the background fabric, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 31 2Â˝x6Â˝" rectangles â&#x20AC;˘ 80 2Â˝" squares From the print fabric, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 2 2Â˝" squares â&#x20AC;˘ 2 Â˝x6Â˝" rectangle for each full block (18 in total) â&#x20AC;˘ 4 2Â˝" squares for each half block (4 in total) â&#x20AC;˘ 10 2Â˝" squares for borders, top and bottom From the binding fabric, cut: â&#x20AC;˘ 4 2Â˝" x WOF strips or use shop-bought bias binding

NOTES: Finished size is 34" square A fat eighth measures 18x21" and a long quarter is an area of fabric which has a width of 44" (the full length of the fabric bolt) and a length of 10" (25cm) Press and remove selvedges from fabric before cutting

Top Tip!

Use clear sandwich or freezer bags to keep your fabric pieces organised when not in use

36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

HOW TO MAKE: Once you have cut your fabrics, organise them in piles and label. Each full block requires one rectangle, two squares from the same print fabric and four background squares. Lay out the block next to the sewing machine and sew a background square each side of the print squares. Press seams open. Once you have got the hang of constructing a single block, you can chain-piece multiples at once for speed. For the half blocks, you need two that are left facing and two right facing. Refer to quilt photo for guidance. For a right-facing block, sew a

background square to a print square for section 1. Press seams open. Sew a print square to a print square for section 2. Press seam open. Sew a background square to a print square for section 3 and press seam open. Sew the three sections together. Reverse this for a left facing half block. For the top and bottom borders, sew the following sequence â&#x20AC;&#x201C; print square, background rectangle, print square, background rectangle, print square,background rectangle, print square, background rectangle, print square. Press all seams open. Repeat to make a second border. Set aside. Refer to

the full quilt picture and lay out your blocks on a clean and smooth surface. Rows 1, 3 and 5 are constructed using a background rectangle, full block, background rectangle, full block, background rectangle, full block, background rectangle, full block, background rectangle. Rows 2 and 4 are constructed using a left-facing half block, background rectangle, full block, background rectangle, full block, background rectangle, full block, background rectangle, rightfacing half block. Press all the seams open and sew each row to the next. Once you have sewn all the rows together, add the

MASTERCLASS

QUILT MATHS top and bottom borders, and press again. On a clean solid floor (or large table), lay the pressed backing fabric right side facing down and smooth to remove wrinkles. Using masking tape (or Washi tape), secure the backing fabric to the floor/table to keep the fabric taut. Carefully lay the wadding on top, smoothing from the centre out. Lay the patchwork RS up on top, smooth from the centre out and pin or tack-stitch all over. Work from the centre out to the edges.

Use a walking foot to quilt in a grid, following the lines of the seams in the patchwork as a guide. This means you won't over-quilt as you want it to be soft and floppy, not too rigid. Once quilted, trim off the excess backing and wadding and square up the sides. Sew the binding strips end to end, press the seams and press in half along the full length (WST). Use this to bind the quilt by hand. (See the masterclass on page 25.)

2½” square

2½x6½”

2½” square

2¼” square

Katy says... Plan your print placement so the beautiful fabric designs don't get cut off awkwardly in your seams

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37

THE GIRL WITH THE BRIGHT

ABOUT

Jade

Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world. Follow her adventures online at www. thegirlwiththebrightredhair.co.uk

r i a h d Re

MG! Have you heard the exciting news? After a long break, The Great British Sewing Bee is to return to our screens! I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think I have been this excited about a TV show before. So, I thought as it's coming back on I would tell you a little bit about my experience on the show and how I was feeling when I first decided to enter. Sit back, grab a cup of tea and enjoy my rather emotional Sewing Bee journey. It was actually my sewing teacher at the time that mentioned to me about the minimum application age being lowered from 18 to 16, and at that point I was 17. That day I drove home and told my mum all about what my teacher had said to me and we filled out the application together. Filling out those application forms was exciting but also a little worrying if I'm honest; contemplating whether I was good enough, would I be able to cope with the pressure and the challenges, would I get on with the other contestants... all these crazy thoughts were running through my head but I still sent the papers off.

This issue Jade is chatting about her favourite TV show - I bet you know which one!

process may well have changed since then), but I can let you know things started with phone call auditions, then two face-to-face auditions and then I had to wait a while for the BIG phone call. First I was told I was in the top 20 and then a couple of days into the new year I heard I'd made the top 10! It was so exciting to hear; I had very little self confidence so it was nice to hear from someone (apart from my family, obviously) that they really thought I was good enough.

I loved my experience on The Great British Sewing Bee because not only did I grow as a sewist and learn plenty of new skills and techniques along the way, but I also grew within myself! I was a Spread the news to your I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go into too very shy person but the friends and make this series of much detail about show helped me grow The Great British Sewing Bee the audition process and I realise I could do the most-viewed as everyone deserves so much more than I had series yet a fair chance when it thought I was capable of. comes to applying (and the Not to toot my own horn or

|t's back!

38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Stay up to date with Sewing Bee news at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

anything, but it also made me realise that I am actually a pretty decent sewist! I can't wait for Sewing Bee to come back because it changed my life so much. Although the deadline for this year has passed, if you feel ready for the challenge I would advise you to apply for a future series because not only will it change your sewing and your life but it will give you friends forever! I can't believe it's been two years since I filmed and I will tell you now, I would definitely do it all over again if I could.

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ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie shares her secret sewing tips adjusting RTW jean hems

any moons ago, I worked for Freemans catalogue as an alterations seamstress. Prior to a shoot, all the pieces were fitted with the stylist/art department/buyer and quality-control team. Many shoots were overseas, so if a stylist had to pin out every garment they’d lose time, and Freemans shot a lot of clothes on those shoots. Since it was for photography, I learned lots of quick tricks, as the clothes didn’t need to survive real life. I learnt sneaky, fast ways to shorten things to minimise excessive editing. My favourite trick is the sneaky jean trick, which involves no unpicking and is actually easier than trying to sew a double fold hem on a domestic sewing machine. Plus this alteration will last! In case it helps here are a couple of 'rules' that will help you when altering clothes: • Always work on any length/height adjustments before starting the width/ circumference adjustments. For example, if you take in the waist, then raise the shoulders, the waist raises up and is likely to be too small! • When buying pre-loved or sale clothes choose pieces that are too big rather than too small, as there usually won’t be seam allowance to let out more than a couple of centimetres. • Letting out satin, or fine fabric means you may be left with track lines where the stitching was. Letting out darker fabric means that you may end up

40 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Don' t miss

Join our jeans sew-along on PAGE 78! Sew your dream jeans with Alison Smith MBE

perfect fit

GUIDE revealing fabric that is a different colour from the faded outside. If you do end up with track lines or needle holes, try thinking outside the box and disguise the line with a detailed feature like applied ribbon. • Before you take stuff to charity shops think about whether or not you could repurpose the item. Alterations are a great way to give a garment a new lease of life if you love the fabric or can't bear to part with a memorable item.

The Ash jeans from Megan Nielsen are a fun new jeans pattern on the scene! See more on page 6

• Some alterations or repairs are boring to do. I would rather get the tedious jobs like replacing zips done at a dry cleaner. (It’s generally only about £15£20.) Shortening skirt or dress hems however, is a relatively quick and easy thing to do yourself and not worth paying £15 for each one.

STEP 3. TRIM TRIM TRIM

Before trimming, try on the jeans to ensure they are the length you want! Trim down the excess to 1cm, to ensure it doesn’t poke out below the final hemline. Neaten the raw edge with either a zigzag or an overlocker.

STEP 1. A BIT OF MATHS

I promise this is an easy bit of calculation! Measure how much you want to shorten your jeans by. In my example pictures, I need to shorten by 2”. Fold the hem upwards onto the right side of the jean (as if doing a turn up) and measure from below the bottom of the original hem to the folded lower edge of the jeans – this should measure half of the amount you want to shorten jeans by. In my example this is 1”.

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend ClaireLouise's new course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners

STEP 2. PREPARE TO SEW

Pin in place, really close to the original hem. Using a one-sided zipper foot, or a stitch in the ditch foot and the free arm of your sewing machine, stitch around the entire hem very close to the original hem fold. On the topstitched seams you may need to use the needle wheel to manually move the needle forward as these seams can be lumpy. Try a jeans hump jumper gadget to help level the foot.

STEP 4. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

Press the seam allowance upwards away from the hem, use steam and a little elbow grease or a clapper. Turn jeans to the right side and press the seam line again to really flatten it. Close up you’ll see a small line close to the original topstitching. Since you’ll be looking downwards when wearing jeans, this really isn't noticeable. I re-press this every few washes.

Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41

This month |'m making

Anna adapted a troublesome pattern to create a gorgeous pink linen jacket

Anna shows us that powering through pattern alterations can lead to beautiful results! To see more of Anna's fabulous makes, visit her blog www.tiptopsewing.blogspot.com

good jacket isn’t just an office-wardrobe staple, it’s something that can change the look of an outfit from day to evening, or from romantic to formal. I love classy fitted jackets, especially the structured and neat look a jacket can give. I wanted something with peplum, collarless and preferably with hook fastenings. The www.burdastyle.com Easy Peplum Jacket HW/2014 #1A seemed to be the perfect choice for me, and that’s exactly what it was, but only after days of fittings and adjustments.

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities. Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

I saw quite a lot of negative reviews on this pattern saying it is unbelievably untrue to size; some seamstresses still found the jacket too big even when they went down two sizes. I made the smallest size and had to just cut 2cm off each side seam, repeat it on the sleeves and even shorten them, something I have never had to do before. The back was way too loose and I had to add a centre back seam to get rid of the extra centimetres there. Luckily the huge amount of alterations didn’t ruin the original design and it still looks exactly how I imagined it would. I wouldn't agree with the pattern being labelled as 'easy', as without any alterations it requires quite a lot of skill, patience and hand sewing. I chose this gorgeous Baby Pink linen; it’s so soft and smooth that it’s hard to believe it’s a material

A nna says...

Linen is one of the best fabrics for a summer wardrobe, and if you’re looking for a high-quality soft linen I can highly recommend this

Textured 100% linen in Baby Pink, £17.99 per metre from www.minervacrafts.com

that’s known for being rather stiff. The quality is absolutely amazing and I’d highly recommend it for any dressmaking project. I didn’t want to line my jacket with traditional viscose fabric and was looking for something more colourful and floral. Cotton voile was exactly what I needed and proved to be the right choice. It’s beautifully soft and delicate and matches my main fabric perfectly. Linen is one of the best fabrics for a summer wardrobe, and if you’re looking for a high-quality soft linen I can highly recommend this.

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We love

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60cm heavyweight denim 1m lining fabric FQ fabric for zipper binding FQ grey mesh 30cm Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing 60cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding 60cm Vlieseline Decovil I Light fusible interfacing 50cm Vlieseline Bundfix tape 2.5cm-wide silver buckle 20cm square glitter iron-on foil 20cm square wool felt 20cm metal zipper 40cm zipper grey #20 Kam snap 15x30cm tan leather co-ordinating thread leather hole punch

NOTES: Seam allowances are 0.25cm unless otherwise stated

SEW

wonderful Personalise this brilliant travel sewing bag with a gold monogram and get set for your next sewing retreat! Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

HOW TO MAKE: Cut a 2.5x1.75cm leather oval for the ends for the handle. Cut it in half widthwise and put aside. Cut the initials you require using the iron-on glitter foil. Cut a 7x25cm piece of denim. Fuse 25cm of Bundfix tape to the WS. Fold in half lengthways and then fold the raw edges to the centre using the perforations as a guide. Top-stitch along both long sides and set aside. Make a tab to keep the large cutting mat pocket closed. Cut a 12cm-long piece of Bundfix tape and fuse to the WS of a piece of lining fabric. Fold and sew as you did for the denim, but this time close one end. Affix the male half of the Kam snap to the closed end. Prepare the buckle by cutting a 2.5x30cm piece of

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

leather (to match the width of the WS with Decovil I Light. your buckle). Round the corners with a cup Cut a 9cm piece, and or similar. Lay it landscape WS up and 3.5cm from the end make make a vertical line 38cm from a hole in the centre. Thread the left for the front bottom through the buckle with the flap. Make another vertical tongue through the hole. line 26cm from the (See Pic A.) right-hand end Trim the other for the front pieces and add top flap. a series of Transfer holes (about Remember not to marks to the five or six) touch the mesh with RS of the at equal your iron or you'll end denim. intervals. up with a sticky mess Cut a Cut a and will have to 25x40cm 51x105cm lining piece for piece of denim start again the zipper pocket. and interface it on

Top tip

Turn the outer over to the denim side and from the left-hand side vertical line, measure down 5cm and mark. Take the zipper pocket lining and place it on these marks, positioning it so that the vertical centre of the pocket lining and the denim outer are perfectly aligned. Pin with RST. Measure down 3cm on one short end of the lining and draw a box 1x20cm. Draw horizontally down the centre with two angles at each end. (See Pic B.) Sew around the outer line and cut along the inner lines then â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;postâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the lining through

Top tip

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the hole. Press neatly then top-stitch the zipper behind the window. On the WS, fold the zipper pocket lining up and assemble the pocket seams.

Fold the outer along the lines and press. On the front (top flap) of the bag, affix the strap with the holes in the centre 10cm up from the edge of the bag. (See Pic C.)

Debbie says... This bag fits the Sew Easy Foldable Cutting Mat which opens to an impressive 60x45cm!

The other half goes 30cm down on the front bottom flap. Fuse your foil monogram in place. Use the half ovals to affix the handle to the top flap. (See Pic D.) Cut a 105x51cm piece of lining. Fuse H630 to the back of it and make the same marks as you did for the denim outer so that you can find the folds. This will help you to position the pockets. Make the left-hand cutting mat pocket first. Cut a 51x30cm piece of S320 interfacing, a 51x32cm piece

of russet fabric and a piece of lining the same size. Fuse the interfacing to the WS of the pocket outer, centring it on the top and bottom. With RST, sew the top and the bottom at the very edge of the interfacing. Trim the seam allowance back to 0.5cm and turn the RS out. Press. Position this on the left-hand side with the opening to the left. Top-stitch the bottom seam and baste the raw sides. The centre section has a needle and pin panel which is simply 30x10cm felt, topstitched to the lining.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45

pocket side and along from the zipper under so that the turned-under edge of it matches the piece on the the binding. other side. Take the last piece of Attach the mesh pocket by straight binding and sew it top-stitching along the length to the underside of the zip of the lower binding, and also and press the opposite end top-stitch along the length of under to match the others. the zipper itself. Lay the lining and This zip is sewn to the lining the outer RST with the on one side but the other correct alignment and pin. side (the one with the two Sew all around the pieces of binding) has outer edge, leaving to be free so that a turning gap in you can get into the bottom. the pocket. Clip the Because the corners and mesh is a little Speciality leather then turn out delicate and needles will make easy through the stretchy, the work of attaching your gap. Close two pieces of straps and securing the gap and binding help to the handle top-stitch right reinforce it and around to finish keep it together. Top-stitch along the bag. the zip on the mesh

Top tip

H Consider cutting out with pinking shears. (See Pic E.) For the slip pocket, cut a 20x27cm piece of S320 interfacing and two 22x29cm pieces of lining fabric. Fuse the interfacing to the WS of one of the pieces of lining fabric, centring it well. This will be the front of the pocket. Place both pocket pieces RST and pin. Sew around the very edge of the interfacing, leaving a turning gap on the base. Trim the seam allowance back to 0.5cm and clip the corners. (See Pic F.) Turn out through the base gap, close it and press so that the edges are perfect. Attach with a topstitch. Align it so that the opening faces to the right. Divide the pocket with vertical seams, depending on what you want to use it for â&#x20AC;&#x201C; think rotary cutter, small rulers, removable markers etc. Take the 40cm zip and add two 8x4cm tabs in russet fabric to each end. Trim it to 51cm long overall and trim the tabs to the width of the zip. Top-stitch to keep the pieces together. Cut three more 4x51cm pieces of straight binding from the russet. Put two aside.

46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Attach one piece of straight binding to one side of the zip. Fold the opposite side under by 1cm and press. On the other side of the zip, attach another piece of straight binding plus the mesh. Fold the edge of the straight binding that is away

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workshops 16TH JUNE Merchant and Mills Camber dress Make a simple shift dress with short sleeves using a Merchant and Mills pattern. Fabric and commercial pattern are included. Cost: £50

HAPPY HARE

Chapeltown, Sheffield Happy Hare is an independent sewing store that stocks a wide range of fabric, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink and offers classes in a variety of crafts. For all workshops, materials will be provided. For sewing workshops you must be able to use a sewing machine with a reasonable level of skill. handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk www.handmadehappyhare.com

BOBBINS & BUTTONS Leicester

Bobbins & Buttons offers sewing classes and courses covering a range of skills, and an online collection of the best quality craft and dressmaking fabric. www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

14TH JULY Beginner’s machine patchwork – nine-patch cushion Learn basic patchwork techniques by making a fabulous nine-patch cushion in bold and bright prints. Cost: £25

23RD JUNE Fabric printmaking

21ST JULY Make your own fabric lampshade

Learn how to print onto fabric using printer’s ink and pre-made blocks. Colours are heat fixed and your prints can be used to make a cushion, tote bag or panel ready to make your own lampshade (additional kit is required or attend the workshop on 21st July). Cost: £20

Using a lampshade kit, which includes metal rings and heat-resistant backing, make your own 30cm lampshade. Fabric will be provided or you can bring your own. Why not use fabric you have printed in our class on 23rd June, or bring something you have needle felted or appliquéd (fabric sizes can be provided on request). Cost: £35

7TH JULY Introduction to sewing machines Learn how to wind a bobbin, thread up a machine, sew in straight lines and round corners, and have a play with the decorative stitches! Cost: £20

STARTING 14TH JUNE Six-week bring-your-own-project course (Thursday evenings) This is an opportunity to work on a sewing project with the guidance you need. Projects can include soft furnishings, dressmaking and pattern cutting. Cost: £120 (includes pattern cutting paper and calico if needed)

STARTING 20TH JUNE Six-week dressmaking course (Wednesday evenings) This course is tailored to your skills and requirements and covers the elements you want to learn, including reading a dressmaking pattern, fitting a garment, adjusting a pattern as well as methods and techniques of construction. Use 48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

of some of Bobbins & Buttons pattern range is available during all classes and courses. Cost: £120 (includes calico to make toile if needed)

EVERY SATURDAY Bring your own project (flexible sessions) Single classes bookable as a two or three-hour session held every Saturday morning. Come along for some help with a project or to make a specific item. Book a few for bigger projects or ongoing advice. Cost: £16-£24

DOT TO DOT STUDIO

Lewes, East Sussex Dot to Dot is a small independent sewing school offering a whole range of classes for adults, kids and teens. Kids and teens workshops run throughout the summer holidays. See website for more details. www.dottodotstudio.co.uk

MON, TUES & THURS EVENINGS 7-9.30PM AND TUES, WED, THURS, FRI MORNINGS 10AM-12.30PM Adult classes Whether you are a total beginner or sewing is already a long-term passion, this class caters for all abilities. Classes run all year round as Dot to Dot Studio is not restricted by term times, enabling students to join at any time.

21ST JULY Continuous zipper purse workshop Join us for this fun half day workshop, taught by our inspiring tutor Annabel Groom. Just bring two coordinating fabrics of your choice! Cost: £30 (zip and wadding included)

15TH AUGUST Kids' workshop: Skater skirt/shorts Learn to make your own skater skirt in just one day! With a pattern made just for you, you’ll be able to make loads more of these cool skirts at home. Alternatively, you could make a pair of summery shorts! Cost: £70 (materials included)

20TH, 21TH AND 22ND AUGUST Three-day craft festival This is a chance to try out lots of different craft projects. Make felted flowers or try tie-dyeing, block printing or sewing you own customisable bag. Cost: £200 (materials included)

SEW BUSY

Fleet, Hampshire 01252 444220 info@sew-busy.co.uk Sew Busy is an Aladdin’s cave of sewing loveliness, stocking a wide variety of items – fabric, ribbon, haberdashery, gifts and kits to name a few. It also runs sewing and craft classes. See more on page 34 and visit the shop at www.sew-busy.co.uk

5TH JUNE Zipped make-up pouch/washbag A great two-hour class where you will make a zipped make up bag/pouch in either oilcloth or upholstery fabric. You will master the art of inserting a zip and leave with a nifty little bag. Cost: £25

16TH JUNE Giant knitting Learn how to use the giant wool to make a scarf or small lap blanket. Cost: £40 (includes wool)

18TH AND 25TH JUNE Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress (two-week class) The Bettine is a wardrobe staple, and dressed up or down is fab for any season. Cost: £100

22ND JUNE Beginners' embroidery A lovely introduction to hand embroidery where you will learn the basic stitches and leave with a small masterpiece. Cost: £25

2ND JULY Jersey beach wrap This is a simple concept from 1m of jersey fabric and a great way to learn how to use stretch fabric – perfect for your summer holidays! Cost: £25

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF

The pussy-bow blouse began life as a symbol of expression for working women and has since become a symbol of solidarity and empowerment. Liam Marshall tells us more

A brief history of

THE PUSSYBOW BLOUSE www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 51

Alice Bah Kuhnke, Sweden’s First Minister of Democracy stood up in solidarity with Sara Danius

he pussy-bow blouse is a classic design that has become a power dressing staple synonymous with strong women throughout history. Perfect for a wide range of fabric types, the garment’s distinctive neckline bow is designed to be tied in several ways to allow you to create an individualised fashion statement. The pussy-bow blouse dates back to the early 20th century when in 1934, the St Petersburg Times advertised a pattern for a collar that could be worn in four different ways, one of which included an ‘intriguingly feminine pussy-cat bow tied high under your chin’. Named for its resemblance to the traditional bow that would be tied around the neck of a kitten, the blouse found its way into popular fashion and in the 1960s, pussy bows became a fixture in American fashion houses, having been featured by designers such as Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. Over the years the pussy-bow blouse has evolved into a symbol of power for women in popular culture. In the 1960s and 70s, as new opportunities began to grow and develop for working women, so did the popularity of the blouse. Trailblazing women who led the way to the top of their corporate careers had

52 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Gucci bow blouse © Shutterstock

no established examples of how to dress and so looked to their male counterparts for cues. The blouse emulated an alternative to the traditional suit and tie, combining masculine work wear with a frill of femininity which made it an ideal choice for women who were looking to stand out and make an impact in a maledominated environment. The pussy-bow blouse’s status as a symbol of power was later solidified in the 1980s when Margaret Thatcher became the UK’s first female Prime Minister. Adopting the pussy bow as a key part of her political image, she reportedly remarked that she felt bows were ‘softening’ and ‘pretty’ and the look has since gone on to be emulated by numerous other political figures around the world including the world’s favourite former First A smart alternative Lady, Michelle to a shirt and tie Obama. The style has long

Over the years the pussybow blouse has evolved into a symbol of power for women in popular culture

since been associated with the Iron Lady and at Thatcher’s funeral in 2013, Samantha Cameron notably paid tribute by wearing a gold pussy-bow blouse.

The pussy-bow blouse typically appears in one of two style options; attached to a v-neck or extending from a keyhole opening. Paired with cuffed sleeves, dartless bodices and easy-fit silhouettes, they are a wardrobe winner for many women. Suited to lightweight fabric that allows plenty of drape, this blouse is a stylish yet versatile look that is simple to recreate yourself. You can also tailor the size of your bow to create a modest or dramatic effect!

Vogue 9201, £14 available from www.sewdirect.com

Why not try the Sew Over It Pussy-bow Blouse? UK Sizes 8-20, £14.50, www.sewoverit.co.uk

In more recent years, the pussy-bow blouse has continued to be worn as a statement piece by women in a position of power. Most recently the blouse made international headlines when, in 2016, Melania Trump appeared at a presidential debate in the run up to the US election wearing a fuchsia Gucci variation. The appearance sparked controversy due to the release of recordings days earlier in which the now-president Donald Trump made some choice comments about grabbing women in a region that is sometimes referred to by a similar name as this timeless look. Despite this, Melania’s appearance served as a reminder of the blouse’s unwavering sophistication and brought it back into focus, allowing the style to resurface at the height of fashion.

The pussy-bow blouse is a constant subject of fashion focus and can be seen featured in the Bowes Museum’s upcoming photography collection Catwalking: Fashion through the Lens of Chris Moore. On from 7th July 2018 – 6th January 2019, this major exhibition has been curated by Chris Moore who has been at the forefront of fashion for over six decades. Capturing key moments at legendary fashion shows from names including Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior and Alexander McQueen, the iconic photographs offer an insight into the evolution of fashion.

Even now, the pussy-bow blouse is used as a symbol of feminist solidarity. In April 2018 women across Sweden wore the blouse to show their support for deposed head of the Swedish Academy Sara Danius. Danius had been forced from her role as permanent secretary of the academy, which awards the Nobel Prize in Literature, after weeks of accusations of sexual abuse against a man with longstanding ties to the group. Believing the disposition to be unfair, both public figures and private citizens shared pictures of their blouses through social media to show their support for the first female head of the centuries-old body.

FIND OUT MORE Discover more about the biggest designer fashion trends of the past six decades through the up close exhibition Catwalking: Fashion through the Lens of Chris Moore at the Bowes Museum, Co Durham from 7th July – 6th January. Visit www.thebowesmuseum.org.uk

The pussy-bow blouse is firmly associated with Margaret Thatcher

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53

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6 6

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Fabric Fabric shopping shopping Ambrose Royal viscose, ÂŁ7 per metre www.fabricateshop.co.uk X Mini Labo Garance cotton lawn, Heavenly Chloe Copper denim, ÂŁ15.99 metre www.minervacrafts.com ÂŁ9.95 per metre www.croftmill.co.uk Ecoper leatherette, ÂŁ15 per metre www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk Cognac 0.55mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 per 5ft square www. Kaldor Mama John floral-print out silk www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk chiffon dress fabric, ÂŁ23.99 per metrepink www.minervacrafts.com pittards.com Burgundy leatherette,burn ÂŁ6 per metre 0.7mm-thick leather skin, ÂŁ17 per Threaders ShellCottage Club www.pittards.com Tropicana Leaves cotton, ÂŁ7.99 per metre cotton 5ft square Spot print mid-blue denim,www.remnantkings.co.uk ÂŁ8.99 per metre www.abakhan.co.uk pink softGarden faux suede, ÂŁ9.80 per Rose Blossom (Grey), metre ÂŁ11.98www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk per metre www.crafterscompanion.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55

D S N I AM H E BE E S TH

Origin story

KNIT FABRIC This is a love affair that shows no sign of ending! Wendy shares the history of knitted fabric

With Wendy Ward

et’s all up our knit knowledge! Here’s a brief history about the world of sewing with knits and the humble origins of this fabric. When we talk about jersey we're really referring to fabric that is knitted together rather than having been loom produced. It can be made with any kind of textile fibre, but the most commonly used are cotton, wool and viscose. It's a basic knitting stitch in which each loop is drawn through the loop below it. The rows of loops form vertical lines, or wales, on the front and back of the fabric. Knitted fabric hasn’t been around that long, especially in outerwear. The fabric is named after the island of Jersey in the Channel Islands, where a woollen knitted jersey fabric was produced and became well known. The early version of the fabric was used for fishermen's clothing and was a heavier weight than the fabric we use now. Gabrielle Coco Chanel is usually lauded as the first designer to use knitted fabric in outerwear in 1916. Prior to this it had just been used for underwear. Shocking at the time, the use of such a fabric in outerwear played a role in women’s emancipation by allowing them to wear comfortable clothing in which they could move and be active.

Issey Miyake catwalk collection 56 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

In the 1930s and 40s Madame Grès sculpted draped and pleated Romanesque jersey dresses directly onto models. The dresses clung to the curves of the female body yet allowed free movement and these intricate gowns were her signature look.

The Kinder Cardigan from my book

1962 saw the arrival of Spandex in mainstream clothing production; named as an anagram of the word 'expands' it is also known by the alternative name elastane. Garments woven with elastane have significant strength and elasticity along with the ability to return to their original shape after stretching and are faster drying than ordinary fabric. By the 1970s American designer Roy Halston Frowick (aka Halston) was using jersey to create sexy draped and wrapped dresses with a pared-down style that followed the shape of a woman’s body without being skin tight and restrictive; perfect for the stars filling Studio 54 and dancing all night! Diane von Furstenberg’s iconic jersey wrap dress emerged in 1974; a style which was hugely successful and still popular today, thanks mainly to its flattering style that looks great on most body shapes and sizes and is easy and comfortable to wear.

ABOUT ME

My book features several athleisure looks

In the 1980s Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake were incorporating knitted fabric into their catwalk collections. Today the use of knitted fabric is almost taken for granted. Who can imagine a world without T-shirts, comfortable sportswear, leggings, vests and sweatshirts? The term athleisure is loved and loathed in equal measure; it seems to be a marmite term amongst designers! The word is derived from the wearing of the same garments both for exercise and for casual wear. I love it, as I believe in people making their clothes fit their lifestyle, rather than feeling they have to have the lifestyle to fit the clothes, and I’m a big fan of clothing that’s versatile enough to be worn in different ways. Although I love it, I don’t always practise it – I’m a bit of a self-confessed gym bunny, but I have a very separate collection of clothes for the gym, ones that I would never wear elsewhere (mainly because I sweat profusely in the gym!). However, when I practised yoga regularly I did wear those clothes for yoga and for leisure/ casual wear.

knits and use speciality needles to get a flawless finish. Something you may need to consider is how to pattern match when working with striped jersey so the seams meet, and play with the direction of stripes so areas like cuffs and neckbands look pleasing to the eye.

Named after the island of Jersey in the Channel Islands, where the woollen fabric became well known

Sewing jersey can require extra care and attention. When picking out patterns you need to factor in the required stretch percentage and stretch recovery and why they’re important. Plus you’ll need to alter the set up of your sewing machine to sew

I design my own range of easy-to-follow modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection. I am a qualified teacher and also have a degree in fashion. I spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking in 2011 from my own studio called MIY Workshop in Brighton. I have written two books about dressmaking: A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts and The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking. Both are available from all good bookshops, and my third book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics is out now! www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk

Due to the production method of interlocking loops the fabric is prone to runs and may unravel if a loop is pierced or damaged by a sewing machine needle. This is why a ballpoint and stretch needles are vital for sewing this fabric. You may also find your jersey fabric curls at the edges because of the difference in tension on the front and the back but you can generally work around this as you cut out. Go forth and enjoy jersey!

Knitted fabric dyes extremely well

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57

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Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

Worth over ÂŁ1,000! WIN A SEWING STOREAWAY! Organisation is fun and practical with this impressive foldaway workstation from Storage 4 Crafts. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re offering one lucky reader the chance to win an incredible Storeaway Dunster 2.0! This versatile workstation offers heaps of storage for all your precious sewing tools and includes a handy thread rack and a spacious work desk so all your equipment is within easy reach. The integrated LED lighting located at the top of the unit means all your projects are clearly illuminated and you can sew whenever creativity strikes! Storage 4 Crafts offers crafters a fantastic range of storage units including boxes, cabinets and portable drawer towers. To browse the range, visit www.storage4crafts.co.uk or contact the team on 0800 048 8606. To enter the competition, head to www.ppjump.com/lovesewing54 before 5th July 2018. This competition is open to UK residents only.

Turn over for many more discounts & pri zes www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59

WIN A ROLL OF

STRETCHFIX TAPE

Sewing with stretch fabric doesn’t need to be daunting with the help of the new Vlieseline Stretchfix products. We’re offering five readers a bundle of Stretchfix tape, a highelasticity stretch webbing on a backer paper that maintains the natural ease of stretch fabric while embellishing or fusing fabric. This easy-to-use adhesive web is ideal when you want to create a soft hem without marring the appearance of the fabric. To find out more about Vlieseline products, visit www.vlieseline. com and for stockist information, contact www.ladysewandsew. co.uk/01491 572528 or www.six-penny. com/01207-565728

to win

Worth over £100!

WIN A BOOK BUNDLE If you’re looking for some lovely projects to make for a little one then this book bundle competition is not to be missed! The team at Search Press is offering five readers a copy of Sew Baby by Debbie Shore (£9.99, Search Press) and Sew Cute Creatures: 12 fun toys to stitch and love by Mariska Vos-Bolman (£10.99, Search Press). Sew Baby features a host of colourful projects for babies and parents, including a stroller bag, portable high chair, nursery storage and play mat. The book contains easy-to-follow instructions to help you make fun, colourful and practical items for family and friends. If you fancy dabbling in amigurumi-style toy making then Sew Cute Creatures is the perfect introduction to this craft. Author Mariska guides you through 12 adorable projects – from Patty the piglet to Peter the pirate – which use a range of colourful fabric and can be sewn by hand or using a machine. This book is great for beginner sewists and those looking for a quick and fun project, we’re sure you’ll want to make the whole set! Visit www.searchpress.com to find out more.

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Worth over £100!

WIN A HALF-METRE FABRIC BUNDLE FROM OAKSHOTT FABRICS With a colour palette of subtle blues, greens, yellow and burgundy, this half-metre fabric bundle is perfect for instilling some calm earthy tones into your next project. Part of the Grayshott Windowpane Weave range, the eight-colour bundle is composed of 100% mercerised shot cotton and features different colour tones on each side of the fabric, making it wonderfully versatile and ideal for quilting, patchwork and general sewing projects. Oakshott Fabrics is a family business run by husband and wife team, Michael and Rose. They combine their expertise and creative passion to bring customers the very best quality fabric woven from premium grade shot cottons. To browse the range, visit www.oakshottfabrics.com

Exclusive discounts SAVE 20% on patterns at Dragonfly Fabrics with the code LOVESEW20. Offer valid until 5th July. www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk SAVE 20% on Liberty Tana lawn at Sewbox with the code LOVE20. Offer valid until 5th July. www.sewbox.co.uk

Worth over £60!

2 to win WIN A FOLDABLE MAT FROM SEW EASY

Perfect for sewists on the go and those looking for an easily storable cutting mat, the new self-healing foldable mat from Sew Easy is a welcome addition to any sewist’s kit. The mat includes detailed metric and imperial markings enabling you to cut fabric with precision and ease, and the 30, 45 and 60˚ angles make this mat adaptable for numerous cutting jobs. Sew Easy products are available nationwide from craft, haberdashery and sewing suppliers. For stockist information, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

WIN a pack of neon thread

WIN A BUNDLE OF MEGAN NIELSEN PATTERNS

If your pattern pile needs replenishing, the lovely team at Backstitch has just the thing. This month, one lucky reader will win an amazing selection of Megan Nielsen patterns! Among the bundle of goodies will be the multipanelled Karri dress, complete with distinctive style lines and side seam pockets; the versatile Axel skirt pattern; perfect-for-summer Harper shorts and skirt and the super-stylish Matilda shirt dress. Backstitch offers an incredible selection of fabric, patterns, books, kits and much more, make sure you check out the website – www.backstitch.co.uk

2 to win

We’ve no doubt you’ll be planning your next make around this zingy new thread from Gütermann Creativ. These bright neon threads are great for sewing up vibrant garments and adding that extra bit of sheen. Each pack contains seven 100m reels of thread in six luminous colours as well as a bonus white reel. For stockist information, contact gütermann@stockistenquiries. co.uk or 01453 883581.

HOW TO ENTER

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.com/lovesewing54 We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes. Our full privacy policy is available at www.ppprivacy.com Entries must be received by 5th July 2018. The competition is operated by Practical Publishing International Ltd. For full terms and conditions, see www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/competitions

We love

BAGS

Tough as

LEATHER

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 52x32cm 1-1.8mm thick chrome-dyed leather for the top of the bag â&#x20AC;˘ 36x32cm 1-1.8mm thick chrome-dyed leather for the base of the bag (contrast colour) â&#x20AC;˘ 120x2cm 2-3mm-thick black vegetable-tanned leather for the strap â&#x20AC;˘ 80x35cm cotton lining fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 23cm metal zipper â&#x20AC;˘ 3 10mm D-rings â&#x20AC;˘ 2 15mm lobster clasps â&#x20AC;˘ 2 6mm rivets & punch tool â&#x20AC;˘ leather needle â&#x20AC;˘ contact adhesive

Professional-looking leather bags are easy to achieve with our helpful step-by-step tutorial from the author of Sew Luxe Leather Project ROSANNA GETHIN

CUTTING: â&#x20AC;˘ 2 30x25cm rectangles of leather for the top â&#x20AC;˘ 2 30x14cm rectangles of contrast leather for the base â&#x20AC;˘ 8cm square green leather for the tassel â&#x20AC;˘ 2 5cm squares green leather for the zipper ends â&#x20AC;˘ 3 1x6cm rectangles of green leather for the D-rings & tassel â&#x20AC;˘ 2 30x37cm rectangles lining fabric

FINISHED SIZE: 34x28cm unfolded 20x28cm folded

HOW TO MAKE: Trim a 1cm triangle from the two corners of each base piece. Apply a 3cm-wide strip of glue to the WS along the top edge. Once the glue is tacky, fold and press down the top edge. Set up your sewing machine with thread to match or contrast with the leather as preferred. Place the base piece (green) on top of the top piece (grey), overlapping by 1cm and use masking tape to secure. Sew along the length of the edge. (See Pic A.) Repeat for the other side of the bag. Cut a 1cm triangle from each of the remaining two corners of each top piece.

62 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Apply a 3cm-wide strip of glue to the WS along the top edge. Once the glue has gone tacky, fold and press down as before. Take the two small squares of leather, fold in half and glue over each end of the zipper and sew in place. Pin the zip RS up along the upper right edge of the lining, also RS up. Sew along the teeth to secure. Sew the corresponding leather panel RS up with the raw edge sitting over the line you previously stitched and the panel extending off to the right. Repeat for the other side of the zip to create a sandwich for the various layers.

Take two of the 1x6cm strips of leather. Thread each onto a D-ring and apply glue to each side, on the WS of the leather. When tacky, press together. Sand the RS of this leather 1.5cm from the cut edge to create a key for the glue. Glue the loops in position one-third of the way down

the bag, with the cut edges facing outwards and flush with the edge of the bag. (See Pic C.) You may need to trim the length by about 1cm so they are not too long. Open the zipper and lay the leather RST, and lining RST. Ensure the loops are still firmly glued in place then secure

A my says...

Use a point turner to get nice crisp corners when you turn your bag right side out

Terrific

TASSELS Finish your bag in style with a handmade tassel for the zipper pull

ABOUT THE BOOK

Sew Luxe Leather, by Rosanna Gethin available now, ÂŁ14.99 www.thegmcgroup.com

the edges of the leather with bulldog clips. (See Pic D.) Sew all the way around the leather, 1cm from the edge and down the two long sides of the lining. Don't sew along the bottom edge of the lining â&#x20AC;&#x201C; leave this open for now. Use a sharp scalpel to trim the seam allowance around the bottom corners of the leather to minimise bulk. Measure the distance from the top to the bottom seam on the leather. (See Pic E.) Mark the same distance on the lining fabric along the lower edge â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this will be the bottom seam line (however do not sew up the lining yet).

Turn the bag RS out through the opening in the lining and push out the corners. (See Pic F.) Fold the open edge of the lining fabric in on itself along the line you previously marked and top-stitch closed. Push the lining into the bag. Create a tassel using the masterclass (right) and attach to the zipper pull. Round each end of the strap piece and pull through the two lobster clasps by 3cm. Fold over and punch a hole for the rivets on each end. Install the rivets following the manufacturer's instructions.

Feed the remaining 1x6mm tab piece through the clasp ring and apply glue to the WS of the leather on each end. Leave to dry for a few minutes before sticking the ends together Place the tassel piece RS up on your cutting mat and secure one 14cm edge to the mat with tape positioned 2cm from the top edge. Using a sharp blade, cut straight lines from the lower edge of the leather up to the masking tape at 5mm intervals. On the WS of the leather, apply glue to the upper uncut area and apply a small amount of glue to the end of the tab piece. Place the tab onto the edge of the glued section with the clasp facing out. Once the glue is tacky, tightly roll the tassel around the tab, keeping the sides even. Place a clamp or bulldog clip around the tassel for an hour while it dries.

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ns r tte rth a P wo

9 Fresh ideas for you and your home 9 . 8 ÂŁ1

Issue 22 on sale 21st June

FREE 2-IN-1 dress pattern

tie-back top pattern

In sizes XS-XL Fun granny square cushion

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READERS'

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Lorna asked you on Facebook…

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS

How would you rate your bag making skills?

Star make

Maggy

“My Shannon shorts made using the Simple Sew pattern free with Love Sewing. They fitted perfectly without any alterations and are very comfortable. I will definitely be making a pair of the trousers.” Great job, Maggy!

A: I’ve never tried but maybe one day! B: I have a few bag projects under my belt C: Ooh I love making bags regularly D: Bags are all I sew!

C 14% D 6%

B 51% A 29%

Heather

Heather whipped up this stunning Butterick 6164 dress just 24 hours after receiving her copy of issue 53! She used cotton lawn from Fabric Corner in Lincoln. Congratulations Heather, you’re this month’s Star Maker!

Sarah

Sarah made a m axi dress version of the Gertie B6380 dr ess from issue 51 an d we think it looks fab ulous – great job, Sara h!

Lesley

Lesley made these adorable bonnets for her granddaughter, Florence, using the pattern featured in issue 51 of Love Sewing – great job, Lesley!

You said... Fran: “I love making bags. I've even made some with heatreflecting wadding so I can use them as picnic bags or for chilled items from the supermarket.” Louise: “I've made a few shopper bags but would like to try more bags and purses.” Gill: “I keep thinking I will but don’t get around to it!” Allyson: “I sometimes like to do a quick make between longer projects. Also, they're good for using up leftover fabric.” www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 65

Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS

These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE

Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE

The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line. TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE

This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS DARTS

SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)

Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

NOTCHES

Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE

This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)

Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS

First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33â&#x20AC;?

38â&#x20AC;?

High bust measurement

32â&#x20AC;?

35â&#x20AC;?

Difference

1â&#x20AC;?

3â&#x20AC;?

Adjustment

1/2â&#x20AC;? SBA = half the difference

11/2â&#x20AC;? FBA = half the difference

Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position. Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level. Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. This is essentially the same process in reverse.

From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount. The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

apex

2 lap

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, you can easily do this yourself. NARROW BACK (FIGS A â&#x20AC;&#x201C; C) B

Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point. Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Âźâ&#x20AC;? adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills. Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder. BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ë&#x161; to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ë&#x161; to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper. A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line. To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Âź-Â˝â&#x20AC;? adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together. Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned. Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

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Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

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We love

STYLE

SUNNY side up

The queen of couture Alison Smith MBE shares this tutorial for a crisp linen dress in a zesty colour palette! Project ALISON SMITH MBE

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 69

LAYPLAN:

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 2.5m 150cm-wide light to medium-weight dressmaking fabric such as cotton, linen, crepe, silk, suiting, scuba or medium-weight polyester â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm lightweight fusible interfacing â&#x20AC;˘ 56cm concealed zip â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

HOW TO MAKE: Create the two back darts and press towards the centre back seam. Neaten the centre back, side and shoulder seam allowances on each back piece using an overlocker or a small zigzag stitch. Create the bust darts on the front and press towards the waist. Neaten the side seams and shoulder seams as before. Fuse a 2x60cm strip of interfacing on the WS of both centre back seam allowances to match the zip placement. Baste the zipper in place RST with the backs, matching the tape to the finished edge. Install with a concealed zip foot. (See Pic A.) Complete the seam below the zip with a regular machine foot.

Stitch the ends of the zip tape to the seam allowances to secure. Press the seam open below the zip. Neaten the straight edge of all four pocket pieces. Line up the pocket pieces on the front and back pieces, RST matching the notches. Sew all four pocket pieces to the side seams of the front and back pieces, using a 1.2cm seam allowance between the notches. Press the pocket and seam allowance away from the body pieces. Place the front and backs of the dress RST, matching the pockets. Neaten the pocket edges using a three-thread overlock stitch or a small zigzag stitch. Machine-sew the side seams using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stopping just past the notches. Stitch around the curved part of the pocket to join the two pieces. Neaten the pocket edges using a three-thread overlock stitch or a small zigzag stitch. Carefully clip the seam allowance to the pocket stitching line. (See Pic B.) Fuse interfacing to WS of the neck facing pieces. Stitch the facing pieces together at the shoulder seams using a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Alison Smith MBE

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and runs exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

70 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Top tip

Using whipstitch to create a hand-sewn blind hem makes a beautiful invisible finish, it's really worth the extra effort!

ABOUT THE BOOK

Neaten the edges and press the seams open. Arrange the facing and dress, RST, matching the shoulder seams. Pin then sew the neck facing in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Using a zipper foot stitch down the short ends of the facing through the zipper tape, following the teeth position. Trim the seam allowance on the facing to half its width. Clip and notch around the curved edge. (See Pic C.) Under-stitch the seam allowance to the facing a few

mm from the seam line. Press the facing inside the dress. Sew the sleeve seam using a 1.5cm seam allowance and press open. Stitch two rows of ease stitches around the sleeve head. Place the sleeve into the armhole, RST, matching the underarm seams, top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and the sleeve notches. Pull up the ease stitches so that the sleeve fits into the armhole and pin. Machine-sew the sleeve using a 1.5cm seam allowance,

starting at the underarm seam. Neaten and join the seam allowance as one. Neaten the sleeve hem edge with an overlocker or a small zigzag stitch. Turn up the hem by 4cm and pin. Shrink any fullness out by hovering a steamy iron over it. Hand-stitch the hem using a slip hem stitch to the WS of the fabric along the overlocked edge. (See Pic D.) Repeat these steps to hem the dress before giving everything a final press.

SIZING: The Sewing Book (2nd edition) by Alison Smith MBE, ÂŁ25 www.dk.com

6-8

8-10

10-12

12-14

14-16

16-18

18-20

20-22

22-24

BUST

82cm

84.5cm

87cm

92cm

97cm

102cm

107cm

112cm

117cm

WAIST

62cm

64.5cm

67cm

72cm

77cm

82cm

87cm

92cm

97cm

HIP

87cm

89.5cm

92cm

97cm

102cm

107cm

112cm

117cm

122cm

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 71

STITCHER'S STORY

MEET THE SCRAP BUSTERS We spoke to Jess Schreiber, founder of New York-based charity FABSCRAP, to discover how the organisation saves leftover fabric from heading to landfill and instead offers it to scrapaholics like us!

rior to launching FABSCRAP I worked at the New York City Department of Sanitation. I was running the City’s clothing recycling programme. During my time there, designers from fashion companies would reach out hoping they could use the clothing recycling programme for their fabric waste. Since it wasn’t the right fit for the city’s programme, which focuses on used garments not unused fabric, I started to look into other options. There weren’t any! We so often think that companies don’t care about the environment; I didn’t want to tell these designers that nothing could be done. So I started putting together an organisation that could help address pre-consumer textile waste. I knew it would need to be convenient and easy to participate. I also wanted the industry to help fund the solution. There are a lot of moving parts! I knew companies would understand and appreciate the service. I thought most of the fabric would be too small to be of use to anyone, so found partners who could shred it into insulation. What was most surprising was the volume of beautiful, high-quality fabric we received by the yard and by the roll! We keep nearly 50% of all fabric for reuse. It’s been incredible to meet so many students, teachers, artists, crafters, makers, quilters and sewists who see the added benefit of using our ‘saved-from-landfill’ fabric! In our first year we provided a service to over 100 brands and saved nearly 70,000lbs from landfill or incineration.

Jess & Camille We rely on volunteer help to sort incoming fabric from our partner companies, and we can never sort fast enough! Camilla Tagle (left), Director of Reuse Partnerships and Jess Schreiber (right) founder of FABSCRAP

you for spending time at FABSCRAP, we let volunteers leave with five pounds of fabric for free. We just relocated our facility to Brooklyn Army Terminal which makes us much more accessible to volunteer sorters and shoppers! We’re hoping to double the number of companies receiving service, double the volunteers from last year, and expand our fabric thrift store with pop-up shops and an expanded online selection. Our goal is to reach as many people as possible with information on textile waste and inspire everyone to get involved.

FABSCRAP relies on volunteers to help sort incoming fabric

So far, the biggest challenge has been keeping up with demand – both for service and for fabric! We rely on volunteer help to sort incoming fabric from our partner companies, and we can never sort fast enough! We need all the volunteer help we can get. As a thank

See more from

FABSCRAP Inspired to learn more about FABSCRAP? Visit www.fabscrap.org and follow the adventure on social media at www.instagram.com/fab_scrap

Pick up a 1lb bundle of scraps sorted by colour. $5 (approximately £3.53 each) at www.fabscrap.org

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 73

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ďŹ nd exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists

CLITHEROE

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Buttons Designs Weekly Make Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

DEVON

CHESHIRE

DUMFRIES

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

GRIMSBY

R omy ' s S ewing R ooms

The Sewing Room offers several different classes a week, teaching everything from simple machine sewing skills to welt felting to space dying! We welcome all and urge you to come and get involved!

For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities. 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@ gmail. com www. facebook. com/ R omyssewingrooms

Tel: 01404 815251 julietsquire.wixsite.com/thesewingroom 1 Prospect Place, Hind Street Ottery St. Mary, Devon, EX11 1BP

HALIFAX

From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

180 I rish Street, D umfries, D G 1 2NJ

HAMPSHIRE

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around!

HAMPSHIRE

HARROGATE

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

The Fabbadashery

Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week! hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

HEREFORD

Many machines on display demonstrations available. Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

LINCOLNSHIRE

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

74 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

LISKEARD

is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire. We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service. We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

www.finefabricsofharrogate.co.uk finefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com

LONDON

.PAINTERS.

We stock fabric from Moda, Stoff, Lewis & Irene, Makower, Kaffe Fassett, and Free Spirit with threads from Gutermann, Mettler, Madeira and Marathon. We have Jacquard dyes and paints, Pebeo and lampshade kits. Felting supplies, haberdashery, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crafts, Woodware and Hunkydory papercrafts. Art materials from Winsor & Newton, Liquitex and Faber Castell. 7 Fore Street, Liskeard, PL14 3JA 01579 347 237 www.craft-box.com painters@craft-box.com

Sewing workshops

Beautiful fabrics and workshops where you will find a warm and friendly welcome.

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, Ipswich IP3 9BF kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk 01473 722888

LONDON

MERSEYSIDE

Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 maria@sammur.com www.reallymaria.com

NORFOLK

Let us teach you the Art of Sewing. With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com We make learning easy

NORTH DEVON

11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 Patchwork and quilting supplies. Classes and workshops. Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

PRESTON

SCOTLAND

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery. 185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

NORTHALLERTON Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter. Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

SWANSEA

A Good Yarn A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium! We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool.

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 melanie.1971@live.co.uk

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

TEWKESBURY

WEST SUSSEX

We stock a wide variery of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons, and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products.

www.sew-something.co.uk

isa

www.

A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions. We run weekly classes and workshops. We also stock wool. No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 melanie.1971@live.co.uk

NORTHWICH Cheshire

The Sew Easy Sewing Shop Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products. 80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

www

fabul

20-22

07952709910 www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk

TAMWORTH

WORTHING

80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staff s, B77 5BJ • Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting. Weekly sewing sessions 1 The Broadway, Weekend workshops Brighton Road Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Worthing, Bespoke commissions undertaken

BN11 3EG T:thesewcialstudio.co.uk 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

SHEFFIELD 42 www.quiltnow.co.uk

7 High St, Storrington, W Sussex, RH20 4DR 01903 746204

swansea NEWPORT

A Good Yarn Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops.

butt

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and QN34.P40.indd 42 Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road To advertise please contact Sheffield Jane on 0161 474 6976 S35 2RB 0114 2455996 or email jane.bates@ handmadehappyhare practicalpublishing.co.uk @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75

Shop Local

NEWS HAPPY HARE

1a Arundel Road, Sheffield S35 2RB Tel: 0114 245 5996 Email: handmadehappyhare@ yahoo.co.uk www.handmadehappyhare.com Happy Hare is an independent sewing store that stocks a wide range of fabric, and also offers classes in a variety of crafts.

SEW AND FABRIC

1 Biddicks Court, Saint Austell PL25 5EW Tel: 01726 75385 Email: sewandfabric@yahoo.co.uk Every Monday Sew and Fabric hosts a hand patchwork/quilting class with Abbie Searle (mornings for beginners and afternoons for advanced). £10 each session plus fabric and sewing kit. All these workshops must be booked as space is limited.

SATURDAY 20TH AND SUNDAY 21ST OCTOBER Come along to Happy Hare’s first ever sewing retreat! You will spend all day Saturday and Sunday sewing. You can bring your own projects to complete or join in with group stitching activities. One night’s four-star accommodation, all food and full use of spa facilities are included in the weekend package. Additional nights can be booked on request. Please contact Happy Hare for full details.

GATHER ‘N’ SEW

Unit 8 Crown Walk, West Street, Bourne, Lincolnshire PE10 9NE Email: info@gathernsew.co.uk Leanne and her team run an independent sewing shop selling lots of gorgeous dressmaking, quilting and soft furnishing fabric, as well as a good selection of haberdashery. They also run a wide range of sewing classes. During the week commencing Monday 18th June the shop will be celebrating its first birthday with special offers, a raffle and a giveaway!

RAGGY ROBIN

Unit 14, Vane Tempest Hall, Maynard’s Row, Gilesgate, Durham, Co Durham DH1 1QF Tel: 07791306497 Email: contact@raggyrobin.co.uk

TUESDAY 19TH JUNE 7.30PM

Sew and tell

Raggy Robin is an independent sewing room in Durham with a relaxing and friendly atmosphere. Owner Sharon designs patterns and teaches a variety of classes – from hand sewing and embroidery to machining, quilting and appliqué – for beginner to advanced sewists.

Sewing machine doorstop double class www.raggyrobin.co.uk/workshops/ sewing-machine-door-stop

76 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Keep up to date with news from your local sewing shop

This is an intermediate to advanced class. Classes are 9.30am-12.30pm Class 1 Saturday 14th July Class 2 Saturday 21st July Cost: £40

The highlight of the celebrations will be a sew-and-tell event where the team asks all customers to come along and bring any item that they have made themselves. The items will be put on display for everyone to enjoy. Leanne, Carol and Fiona will be modelling patterns and fabric on a catwalk outside the shop and would love other people to be involved in modelling their makes, too. During the evening there will be refreshments, a sale, giveaways, raffle and much more. Pop along and join in!

WIN A PAIR OF TICKETS TO THE FESTIVAL OF QUILTS! We have an incredible 10 pairs of tickets to give away for The Festival of Quilts, Europe’s ultimate quilting destination that attracts 24,000 visitors from across the world. The festival features extraordinary galleries from international artists as well as 300 exhibitors and a diverse programme of talks, workshops and social events. The Festival takes place 9th – 12th August 2018 at the NEC Birmingham (Halls 7, 8 and 9). Opening times are 10am to 5.30pm daily (closes 5pm Sunday). Headline galleries/artists are Nancy Crow, Shizuko Kuroha, Laura and Linda Kemshall, Hilary Beattie and Ruth Singer.

10 PAIRINS! TO W

Enter today!

To enter, go to www.p pjump.com/ lovesewing54. (The winner will be notifie d by email after the co mpetition closes. Travel is not included )

We promise we’ll alw ays keep your data sa fe and will never share it wi th or sell it to other co mpanies for marketing purpos es. Our full privacy po licy is available at www.pp privacy.com Entries must be received by 3oth June. The competitio n is operated by Practical Publishing Internati on al Ltd. For full terms and co nditions, see www.practicalpublis hing.co.uk/compet itions

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

ASK THE EXPERTS

Ginger jeans

Sew-along Part 1

Alison Smith MBE kicks off our new sew-along, sharing tips and tricks for making a flawless pair of jeans

y new sew-along is for jeans! Have you thought about making jeans? They really are not that difficult. I am using the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans. These jeans require a stretch denim with 2% stretch. This is the type of denim widely used in RTW.

Jeans are really difficult to toile as calico does not stretch, and if you toile in a stretch fabric it may behave differently to your chosen denim. Unless you have excess fabric you might find it best to press ahead with these tips.

|n this issue Alison starts her new

sew-along, sharing how to make jeans! 78 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Leftover soft cotton makes a great pocket lining

SAVE 40% Pick up your copy of the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns from our friends at www.fabrichq.co.uk using the code on page 80!

GETTING STARTED

Prewash your denim as this will wash off any surplus colour and shrink the fabric, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let it get too dry before ironing otherwise the creases are difficult to remove! Take the best-fitting jeans you have in your wardrobe that have been freshly washed so they are at their smallest and take some measurements from them. Turn the jeans inside out and measure the front crotch seam and the back crotch seam. Measure the inside leg, the width of the leg at the ankle and the width of the leg at the thigh.

Use these measurements and compare them to your pattern. Is the crotch seam long enough for you? If not slash your pattern and add length in. Which leg width is best for you? Is the leg long enough?

CUTTING OUT

Once you have analysed the pattern and washed your denim its time to cut out. Unless the fabric you have chosen has a nap or shadows like sateen then you can cut the legs so that they dovetail into each other. Try a soft cotton-print fabric for the pockets and waistband lining. You will also need a small amount of interfacing for these jeans. Choose a non-stretch interfacing for stability and security!

MACHINE SETUP

Insert a jeans needle into your sewing machine, use a good-quality thread for the bobbin and sewing the seams (I recommend GĂźtermann) and you will also need a topstitching thread. If you have two sewing machines I would take the luxury of having one machine threaded with the topstitching thread and one with the regular thread. Both would require regular thread in the bobbin. You will also need a three thread overlocker (with stitch length of 3) or an overcast setting for your machine.

LAST BIT OF PREP

Interface the back pockets and coin pocket as indicated on the pattern pieces. Overlock the edges of the back pockets and the straight edges of the coin pocket.

You won't need to use a nap layout for most denim

Only toile if you have a closely matching denim

The instructions on this pattern are very comprehensive, however if this is your first pair I suggest you follow my sew-along in order to fit the jeans as we go forward. I'm excited for the next time! See you then.

ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79

JOIN OUR JEANS SEW-ALONG!

SAVE

40% on the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns

With fresh modern fabric and the latest independent pattern designs, Fabric HQ is Britain's brightest sewing shop. Run by mother and daughter duo Jacqui and Rae, Fabric HQ offers online shopping or you can visit the shop in person in Stoke Mandeville, Buckinghamshire HP22 5XJ. This month the lovely team is spoiling you by offering Love Sewing readers an exclusive 40% discount on the fantastic Ginger Jeans from Closet Case Patterns! To take advantage of this fantastic offer, visit www.fabrichq.co.uk and enter the code GINGER at checkout.

80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

SAVE 40% with code GINGER

*This offer will run until 5th July 2018.

We love

STYLE

Bag for

GOOD A great starting point for any bag maker, the Miss Maggie's Handbag is a classic design you can personalise with your own style Project JANELLE MACKAY Emmaline Bags

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 81

MASTERCLASS

FEET FIRST Attaching bag feet has never been simpler... Mark the four purse feet positions on the heavy interfacing by measuring in 5cm from each short end and 2cm in from each side. Mark the centres of the short ends 44mm from each side. (See below) Working on the WS of the front/back panel, centre the bag bottom over the middle seam, line up the centre marks on the short sides

HOW TO MAKE:

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm quilting cotton, home dĂŠcor, leather or vinyl exterior fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm quilting cotton or similar weight lining fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 50cm light to medium-weight fusible woven interfacing such as Pellon Shapeflex SF101 â&#x20AC;˘ large scrap heavy interfacing/ stabiliser such as Pellon Peltex â&#x20AC;˘ 43x62cm foam stabiliser such as Pellon Flex-foam â&#x20AC;˘ magnetic snap â&#x20AC;˘ 4 12mm purse feet â&#x20AC;˘ 4 double-cap rivets (size depends on fabric; 6mm for thinner fabric, 8mm for thicker vinyl & leather) â&#x20AC;˘ 2 heavy-duty press snaps (optional) â&#x20AC;˘ 4 Emmaline diamond strap anchors (optional)

82 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

â&#x20AC;˘ clear-drying, fast-tack glue such as E-6000 â&#x20AC;˘ leather punch or awl â&#x20AC;˘ walking foot (recommended) â&#x20AC;˘ template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Finished size is approximately 28x25x10cm All cutting measurements are w x h Seam allowances 1cm unless otherwise stated Measurements to cut interfacing for exterior pieces and straps are provided for lighter fabric like quilting cotton. If you are using vinyl or leather, you will not need to cut and fuse this interfacing

Following the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guidelines, fuse the interfacing onto the WS of the exterior fabric pieces. To make the straps, fold the pieces 6mm on each short end of the strap to the WS and press. Fold the strap in half length-wise, WST. Press. Open again and fold the outside edges towards the centerfold line. Press. Fold the entire strip in half once again, meeting folded edges together and press. Top-stitch around all four sides using a 3mm seam allowance. (See Pic A.) Thread one ring onto one end of a strap and fold over the end 2.5cm, or longer if desired. Use a punch to make a hole, and install a double-cap rivet to hold in place. (See Pic B.) Repeat for the other strap end and then make a second strap. To make the exterior shell, mark a 5cm square in the bottom left and right corners of the exterior front and back pieces. Cut out using the lines. Place the exterior front and back pieces RST and pin across

with seam on the bottom of the panel. Clip to hold in place. Using a 6mm seam allowance and longer basting stitch, attach the bag bottom to the front/back panel by sewing in the seam allowances as shown. Use a punch or awl to make holes on the purse feet placement markings. Push the feet from the RS of the fabric and install using purse feet washers.

the bottom edges before sewing in place. Press the seam allowance open, and top-stitch decorative stitching 3mm on either side of the seam line. With RS up, pin the exterior front/back panel on the foam stabiliser. Pin every few cm around all sides. (See Pic C.) Machine-baste the panel to the foam using a 6mm seam allowance, and a long basting stitch. Cut away all foam from seam allowances close to the stitch line. To attach the diamond strap anchors, fold the front/back exterior panel in half lengthwise, and make a crease at the centre. Mark this in the seam allowance and repeat for both ends. Line up the top edge of the template to the raw fabric edge at the top of one end of the front/back panel, matching the centre markings on the template and the fabric, and pin in place then install. (See Pic D.) To finish the exterior shell, with the front/back panel WS out, fold the panel in half so

A the top edges of the front and back come together and sides match up. Pin the sides and sew together. Press the side seams open. Lay the side seam down over the center of the bottom of the bag, matching seams. Pin or clip in place. D Sew across the open edge to form a boxed corner. Stitch another seam 3mm outside this for reinforcement. After you turn the bag RS out to check to make sure it looks amazing, you can then trim off the excess fabric. Prepare the lining by marking a 5cm square in the bottom left and right corners and finish with two rows of for lining front and back. Cut 3mm topstitching on the out these squares. bottom lining piece over the To make the slip pocket, allowance. (See Pic F.) Fold the tops of each fold the 10â&#x20AC;? square RS of the lining panels in half together. Pin around the raw lengthwise, and make a crease edges and sew using a 6mm down the centre. Mark this seam allowance but leaving in the seam allowance with an 8cm turning gap in the a pen. Measure down 3.8cm bottom. Before turning RS from the top edge centre and out, press the seam allowance mark a placement dot for the on the 8cm opening open. magnetic snap. Install each Clip four corners, turn and half of the magnetic closure press. Stitch two rows of on this dot. topstitching across the folded To finish the lining, with the edge at around 6mm-1cm. For main pockets, attach front/back panel RST, pin the one of the lining front and back sides and sew together. Press pieces. Fold in half lengthwise the seams open. Pin the bottom of the lining and make a crease at the together and sew leaving an centre. Centre the pocket on 18cm turning gap. Lay the the folded crease, with the top side seam down over the edge 5cm down from the top. centre of the bottom of the Pin in place. Edge-stitch 3mm bag, matching seams. Pin or from the edges, around three clip in place. sides. Sew a line through Sew across the the centre of open edge to the pocket form a boxed to divide in half. corner. Stitch (See Pic E.) To attach another seam If using vinyl or leather the interior 3mm to for straps, ends can be top facings, the outside left raw and unfolded place each of this for and you can use facing RST reinforcement. leather adhesive with one of After a quick on the ends! the lining front/ check you can back pieces, trim off the excess matching bottom fabric close to the second straight edge to the top edge seam. (See Pic G.) With the exterior WS out of the lining. Pin and sew and lining RS out, insert the together. Press the seam lining into the exterior so toward the bottom lining

Top tip

that they are facing RST. Pin around the opening, aligning the centre front/back and side seams. Use your walking foot to sew around the circumference. Use the hole in the lining to turn the bag RS out and slip-stitch closed.

Push the lining into the bag and press to remove any wrinkles. Roll the seam at the top of the bag to make sure itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pressed out completely and pin the opening in place. Top-stitch around the bag opening, using a 6mm seam allowance to finish.

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Fabric shopping Queue for the Zoo in mauve and orange (LTL03634160E), ÂŁ22.60 per metre Adriatic (LTL03636291A), ÂŁ18 per metre Emma & Georgina (LTL03633038H), ÂŁ19 per metre Head and Tails in blue (LTL03636287A), ÂŁ18 per metre Delfie (LTL03631152B), ÂŁ16 per metre Small Susanna, (LTL03630028E) ÂŁ18 per metre Hunter truck (LTL03633289D), ÂŁ17 per metre Capel in red (LTL03633055F), ÂŁ22.40 per metre All available from www.sewbox.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85

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BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books

Sew Luxe Leather by Rosanna Gethin £14.99, F+W Hi Rosanna! Tell us about your book and what inspired you to write it? I was approached by F+W Media and asked if I would consider doing a book; I was very flattered. I was keen for it to contain a combination of hand and machinesewn projects, from basic to advanced to give people a wide range of makes to choose from. What is your favourite project in the book and why? The Upcycled bag (right) – this is a great way to add new life to an old leather jacket and each project will produce completely unique results!

STITCH HAPPY Hand-stitch to your heart’s content with Aneela Hoey’s new book Stitch & Sew. Improve your embroidery and enjoy 31 pretty and practical projects. Available for £22.99 from www.search press.com

Many sewists are afraid of working with leather, what are your top tips for anyone new to sewing with this material? Start simple, try small projects such as the tassel keyring or bookmark in my book and get used to cutting leather and seeing how it works. Use good-quality tools and sharp knives to get the neatest edges. With sewing, if on a domestic machine, use a leather needle and thin leather. Use offcuts where possible too so you can make mistakes and it won't cost you too much! Which tools are most important when working with leather? As I mentioned above, use sharp knives and measure carefully. A rotary cutter is best on thinner leather as it doesn't stretch the leather when you cut it like a scalpel can.

FAT QUARTER FUN Gather up your precuts, Fat Quarter Favorites is here to bring you heaps of new ideas, including fresh spins on classic quilt blocks. It features a host of international quilters and can be found at www. roundhousegroup.co.uk/shop from 15th June

Rosanna

What exciting things do you have planned over the next few months? I'm launching the book and will be attending lots of summer fairs. I'm also working on a new range of bags incorporating wooden panels, which is exciting! We're sharing a Plus, I have a few tutorial for Rosanna's cross-body bag on new workshop page 62! ideas in the pipeline.

Try now!

CHIC SHADES Joanna Heptinstall shares how to sew your own stunning lampshades from scratch, complete with pleats and all manners of tassels! Sewing Lampshades is available now for £14.99 www. searchpress.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

FIVE

fabulous feet

ABOUT WENDY GARDINER

Wendy takes a look at five must-have feet that will make your sewing projects go more smoothly, giving you more time to enjoy the process

As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

sing the right foot for the sewing task in hand can make it so much easier to sew a perfect hem, insert a zip easily or make a buttonhole.

1. ZIPPER FEET OK I’m breaking the rules by starting with a group but these are important! A zip foot usually comes with the sewing machine as one of the basic feet provided. Not only is it perfect for inserting zips more easily and neatly, it can be used to attach piping perfectly too. The most common zip foot usually has a single toe with cut-away notches each side and two metal bars so that it can be clipped onto the machine with the toe to the right or the left of the needle.

Being able to attach the foot to the foot holder on different sides of the needle means you can position the foot for the smoothest area of stitching and the needle can be closer to the teeth. And when making piping, you can stitch close to the cord for a lovely tight finish. Adjustable zip foot – this has the single toe attached to a slider with a screw so that you can move the toe closer or further away from the zip or piping cord. The toe is very narrow and again has cut-away notches each side for the needle. You can use this foot for regular zip insertion and piping but also for concealed zip insertion. However, do take care to keep fingers away from the needle as there is minimal protection with this narrow-toed foot.

Concealed zip foot – this has to be one of my favourites as it makes inserting an invisible zip so much easier. It's a chunky square shape with a small hole in the centre for the needle and two deep grooves on the underside through which Make sure the the zip teeth run needle has definitely smoothly as you moved to the left or sew in the zip. right so it doesn’t Some concealed hit the foot zip feet also have a little protruding bar at the front which helps open out the teeth as you sew so you can really stitch close, indeed almost underneath them.

Top tip

88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

The needle needs to be in the centre position to go through the hole. The zip is then opened and attached to the right side of the seam allowance, with the teeth facing up and running along the seam line. Make sure the teeth are running through one of the grooves on the underside of the foot and the needle penetrates very close, almost under the teeth as you sew and start from the top of the zip. Continue to as close to the end as possible then repeat for the other side.

2. BLIND-HEM FOOT This is another foot that is often included as one of the basic feet supplied with the

machine. Use it in conjunction with the blind-hem stitch for an almost invisible hem finish. (The blind-hem stitch has a straight stitch to the right with occasional zigzag stitch to the left.) The foot will usually have a narrow

Learn all about the Bernina 770QE on page 12

metal guide in the centre of the foot protruding below the foot and with a tiny kink in the aperture. Once the garment hem allowance is folded up and ready to sew, the fold of fabric is butted against this guide so that the straight part of the stitch is on the hem allowance, and the zigzag goes across into the fold catching the garment, creating an almost invisible hem. I say almost because the stitch does leave a tiny ladder stitch on the right side of the fabric. Using a thread to match the fabric though will make this virtually invisible (or you can use invisible thread). You can adjust the stitch width to increase or decrease the size of the zigzag to take a little more of the folded fabric or a little less.

3. OVEREDGE/ OVERLOCK FOOT Most seam allowances need to be neatened to prevent them fraying away and if you don’t have an overlocker, this is the foot to use. Usually it can be identified by the metal bar or two bars in the needle aperture of the foot. Some varieties also have a little brush as well. It may have a narrow guide protruding below the bottom (similar to the blind hem foot) or a thicker right toe. The idea of this foot is to stitch on the very edge of the fabric to neaten it. Using this foot prevents the fabric edge from curling or bunching as the metal bars or brushes help keep it flat as you sew. Use the foot in conjunction with the over edge stitch or a zigzag stitch to neaten the raw edge neatly. The over edge stitch will have a straight stitch to the left with a repeated zigzag to the right that goes right off the edge of the fabric.

protruding nub on the buttonhole foot.Position the fabric so the front of the buttonhole is in line with the aperture of the foot and the red markings either side of the aperture.

4. BUTTONHOLE FOOT Auto one-step buttonhole functionality makes buttonholes a breeze. The long foot, usually made from white plastic, includes a section at the back into which the button you want to make the hole for is inserted, and red markings to match the foot to the start of the buttonhole marking your fabric. The foot has an adjustable section at the end that holds the button snugly. The gap set for the buttonhole determines the perfect stitch size the machine will make. Attach the foot in the same way as usual, clipping the bar into the groove on the underside of the foot holder. Bring the buttonhole lever down so the paddle on the lever butts up against the back of the

Corded buttonhole – you can make reinforced buttonholes using this same foot. These are great for stretchy or very lightweight fabric that might otherwise warp out of shape with wear. At the very back of the foot is a single protruding hook and at the front, two ‘forks’. Fold a length of crochet cord or embroidery floss and place it over the hook at the back bringing it under the foot to the front, up to the two forks at the front. Notice in the aperture you can see the two parallel pieces of cord. Hold onto the ends and as you sew, the stitching will go over the cord. To finish, pull on the cord ends to hide the loop at the other end and trim.

5. OPEN-TOE FOOT/SATIN STITCH FOOT This foot has a wide aperture at the front and two narrow toes each side so there is a lovely clear view of the stitch area (it is also known as clear view foot). It is similar to the regular zigzag foot, but the extra open front allows precision sewing if you are following an edge or want to see exactly what you are sewing. It clips onto the machine in the usual way and is the perfect choice for appliqué, sewing lace and top stitching with decorative stitches. You can also use this foot to machine-sew buttons on. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 89

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We love

STYLE

SPOT

on!

The frill detail at the raglan seams of this tee take it from humdrum to heavenly Project JULIA CLARIDGE Bobbins & Buttons

Shopping list Deep pink glitter dots organic cotton jersey, ÂŁ10 per metre www.sewmesunshine.co.uk

92 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LAYPLAN: Fabric for sleeve

SIZING: 10

BUST

94cm

99cm

104cm

109cm

114cm

HEM BAND WIDTH

91cm

96cm

101cm

106cm

111cm

LENGTH SIDE NECK TO HEM

65cm

66cm

67cm

68cm

69cm

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

â&#x20AC;˘ 1.5m 160cm-wide T-shirt jersey with good recovery such as cotton interlock â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread for your machine & overlocker â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Prepare all the bands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with RST stitch neckband, cuff bands and hem bands at the short side seams. Prepare the frill â&#x20AC;&#x201C; if you are using an ovelocker you can simply overlock the outer edge. It's best to test the stitch on a piece of scrap fabric. Try reducing the stitch length for a neat finish. (See Pic A.) If you are using a regular machine, try using a narrow zigzag stitch and trim close to the stitching with a sharp

NOTES: Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker in a co-ordinating thread 1.5cm seam allowance allowed throughout

pair of scissors. Alternatively, most jersey fabric doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fray so your fabric might look good left raw. Place the frill along the front raglan seam, matching the short straight edge to the neck edge. Stitch to hold in place. (See Pic B.) With RST and notches matched join the front raglan edge to the front sleeve edge, making sure the frill is sandwiched between the two. Sew in place, taking care not to catch the frill ends awkwardly.

Join the back raglan seam to the back sleeve edge and stitch in place. Mark the quarter points of the neck edge, starting from one of the back raglan seams and gently pulling the neck so you can mark the opposite side to this seam. Use a pin or chalk to mark. (See Pic C.) Bring these marks together to find the quarters. Do the same with the neckband. Match the quarter marks on the neckband to the quarter marks on the garment (placing

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 93

the neckband seam in line with the back raglan seam). Pin together, clips also work quite well here. You may like to tack the neckband on before sewing as you will need to stretch the neckband between the quarter marks to fit the neck edge. Take care to check the frill is flat before you sew. (See Pic D.) With RST, pin the underarm seams from cuff edge to hem edge. Stitch. Fold the cuff and hem

Top tip

bands in half so raw edges This is an ideal garment are matched. for using an overlocker. Quarter Ensure it is threaded the wrist cuff with four threads for a edge and the stable seam cuff bands in the same way as the neckband and neck edge. Pin and stitch in the same way as the neckband. Repeat this with the bottom hem band to complete. (See Pic E.)

A my says...

On a regular machine set the stitch to a 2mm x 2.5mm zigzag or stretch stitch and use a ballpoint or stretch needle

94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95

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McCall's 7714 Mix & match dress Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Simple Sew Zadie casual top P Sewing gossip with Lauren Guthrie P Katy Jones's patchwork table runner P Fun and functional stash storage – fabric slogan caddies

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EMBROIDERY y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P In-depth articles from Wendy Ward P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Behind the scenes with Jade Earley *All contents subject to change.

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We love

GIFTS

SWEET dreams

Relax in zakka style with this adorable eye mask and use your favourite fabric scraps for patchwork Project AMBER EDEN

Top tip!

Your machine may have a clear appliquĂŠ foot that will help you see the stitching line more clearly

MATERIALS & TOOLS: â&#x20AC;˘ 6x12" (15x30.5cm) naturalcoloured fabric for mask front â&#x20AC;˘ 4 3" (7.5cm) fabric squares for appliquĂŠs â&#x20AC;˘ 6x12" (15x30.5cm) muslin or other light coloured, lightweight fabric â&#x20AC;˘ 6x12" (15x30.5cm) soft cotton, satin, or flannel fabric for eye mask back â&#x20AC;˘ 6x12" (15x30.5cm) thin wadding â&#x20AC;˘ co-ordinating thread â&#x20AC;˘ 4x8" (10x20.5cm) double-sided fusible web â&#x20AC;˘ 16" (40.5cm) Âź" 6mm-wide elastic â&#x20AC;˘ fabric marker â&#x20AC;˘ templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FINISHED SIZE: About 9x4" (23x10cm)

NOTES: Change thread colour throughout the project to match each fabric

98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

HOW TO MAKE: Trace the eye mask pattern on the RS of the eye mask front fabric and mark the placement marks for the elastic as shown on the template. Layer fabric as follows: muslin, quilt wadding, the eye mask front, all RS up. Pin the pieces together at the outer edge. Trace the 'Z' template in reverse onto the paper side of the fusible web. Press the fusible web firmly onto the wrong side of one of the Z fabric scraps. Cut out the Z shape from the fused fabric. Set aside and make three more in the same manner. Peel the paper backing from the Zs. Arrange them on the eye mask front, at least Âž" (2cm) in from the outer edges and fuse in place with an iron. To secure the Zs, use a small zigzag stitch and go slowly. At the beginning and

end of each Z, leave a 5" (12.5cm) thread tail. After the Zs are attached, pull the tails from the front of the eye mask to the back. Tie the threads into a knot and then clip the tails. Place one end of your elastic between the marks on one edge of the eye mask on the mask front. Make sure the elastic is facing toward the centre of the mask. Machinetack the elastic Âź" (6mm) from the edge of the outline. Position the other end of the elastic, taking care not to twist it. Put on the eye mask to check the fit and adjust. Machine-tack the other side. On the WS of the eye mask back fabric, trace the template and cut out. Place RST with the front, matching the raw edges and pin. Sew the layers using a Â˝" (1.3cm) seam allowance. Take care to only secure the ends

of the elastic. Leave a 4" (10cm) turning gap in the top edge. Cut out the eye mask from the following the back fabric outline. Clip and notch the curved seam allowances, making sure not to cut into the stitches. Turn the mask RS out and push out the corner and seams until the layers are smooth. Tuck the raw edges of the opening into the eye mask and press flat. Edge-stitch at 1â &#x201E;8" (3mm) around the entire eye mask which will close the opening. Clip any hanging threads to finish.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Best of Stitch - Beautiful Bedrooms by Amber Eden, Interweave Books

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95

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