ojuiohjuihujhg

a NEW INSIDE! BEGINNER QUILT · HALLOWEEN IDEAS · FABRIC JOURNAL WIN SEWING MACHINE Worth

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OCTOBER 2017 ISSUE 102 £5.99

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

12 Easy Classic Outfits!

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RN FREE PATTE-22 IN SIZES 10

Go-to garments made to last

NoPattern Makes One size fits all!

EXTRA 36-pages

of projects, guides, news, tips & more

Plus MAKE A COATIGAN ·· VINTAGE STITCHING

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 2

Hello... October I’ll admit, checking the forecast and planning outfits isn’t my strongest point, so it’s really important for me to have transitional pieces that can be layered together. This month, our dressmaking pages are heaving with useful in-between garments, such as a no-pattern bell-sleeved top (p18), heavyweight button-up midi skirt (p34), your FREE New Look tops (p10), and my fave – a bouclé coatigan (p26). You can also explore the rich history of the LBD (p90), before stitching your own (p41).

What’s more, we’ve got exclusive previews from Simplicity (p38) and Stoff & Stil (p47), plus expertise on stitching crepe (p10), vintage clothes (p44), autumn jackets (p25), and more in your bonus Stitch It mini-mag!

This time of year provides the opportunity to work on unusual projects like a constellation table runner (p64), spooky makes (p66) and a Halloween banner (p68). We also ease you into Christmas crafting with our one-hour felt elves and Santa (p72) and cute stocking bunting (p75), or you can enjoy sewing great gifts elsewhere in the mag.

Sew Saturday is practically here! Make time on 21st October to get involved with your local haberdashery – we’ve enjoyed catching up with some lovely shop owners taking part (p30). Having expert staff who are happy to share their knowledge can make all of the difference to your hobby. Whatever your skill level, the team and I are here to help you be the best stitcher you can.

41

Check if your local sewing shop is taking part in Sew Saturday! sewmag.co.uk/local-sewing-shops

10

25%! off

Happy sewing!

Jenny

claim age 20 to Turn to pcount on crepe your dis Minerva Crafts. fabrics at

Jenny Ward, Sew editor

* Discount on adult, OAP and student tickets only, valid until event.

Get £1.50 off* tickets to The Sewing Bee Live Show with the code SMD at thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com

We always have lots of fun photographing our garments!

sew

free template download

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HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY.

sew October 2017

IN THIS ISSUE...

IN EVERY ISSUE 03 WELCOME Come say hello to the team!

HO, WHAT & WEAR 06 W Keep up to date with the sewing world

15 YOU! SEW SOCIAL We love what you’ve been making!

HE BOOK SHELF Fuelling 71 T your addiction to sewing books 74 T OP OF THE CLASS Learn from the pros 89 N EXT MONTH Our Christmas special is out on 21st September

GIFTS

38 EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW SIMPLICITY TIMELESS STYLE A round-up of the brand’s best authentic vintage patterns

55 JOURNAL BUDDY AND BOOKMARKS A stylish set for diary keepers

52 CONFESSIONS OF A SEWING ADDICT Corrine tries to restore order amongst her tool collection...

57 S TASHBUSTER FLOWER BROOCHES Transform scraps into stylish accessories

HOME

59 WORK CUT OUT Meet the Two Itinerant Quilters, who have an unusual method of sourcing fabric

54 P RETTY TABLECLOTH Sew a patchwork cover for your home

KIDS

TEA BREAK

55 OCT MASCOT BINKY BUNNY Sew our adorable rabbit toy plush today – named

by YOU!

30 DIARY DATE SEW SATURDAY 2017 Discover what your local store is planning!

66 SPOOKTACULAR HALLOWEEN PROJECTS Three fun makes for your little horrors

54 STRIPY BAG Keep things tidy with a useful drawstring pouch 58 CHARM QUILT Make a pretty design from fabric packs 60 A WARM WELCOME Sew your home snuggly 63 STUART HILLARD Our columnist discusses his love of autumn

57 55 60

58

68 04

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64 CONSTELLATION RUNNER Embroider a galaxy-themed centrepiece 65 THE FABRIC EDIT Be inspired by this starstudded collection 68 SUSIE JOHNS’ SPOOKY BANNER Celebrate in seasonal style!

72 ONE-HOUR FELT PROJECTS Whip up some festive treats in no time 75 STOCKING BUNTING Make an early start on your Christmas decs

66

WIN!

18

on page 76

DRESSMAKING

32

pages of fashion, garments & more!

FREE THIS MONTH...

A top in four styles to suit any occasion, from a casual tee for everyday wear to a long-sleeved blouse for the office or an evening out!

FREEBIES & OFFERS 03 DISCOUNT THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE LIVE Money off!

ISCOUNT THE KNITTING & 06 D STITCHING SHOW More money off!

20 2 5% OFF AT MINERVA CRAFTS Get this discount on ALL crepe fabrics

10 VERSATILE TOPS Make a slinky blouse or short-sleeved tee with your FREE pattern

48 FREE SEW-LICIOUS LITTLE THINGS Claim your free CICO Books title, worth £14.99

O-PATTERN ARABELLA TOP 18 N Use red linen to make a bell-sleeved top

76 GIVEAWAYS! More than £1,600 worth of prizes to be won 78 SUBSCRIBE TODAY Get Sew each month, plus EIGHT metres of festive fabric

41

20 DRAPE CREPE The best fluid fabrics 22 B OBBY T-SHIRT Make a comfy child’s top from cotton jersey 25 FRANCES TOBIN Our style expert looks at jacket and coat options

34

26 S HAUNA COATIGAN A simple pattern that’s great for keeping the chills at bay 28 PATCH IT UP Personalise your clothes with appliqué motifs 29 SEWING WITH MAY MARTIN How to transfer pattern markings onto fabric 32 INDIE PATTERN NEWS Our top picks this month O-PATTERN VICTORIA MIDI 34 N Sew yourself an easy skirt with simple stitching techniques 37 LAUREN GUTHRIE Our Sew columnist is already planning her autumn wardrobe

26

41 MASTERCLASS SOPHIA DRESS Create a chic frock for timeless style 44 SEWING SOS The experts on vintage sewing 47 E XCLUSIVE PREVIEW EFFORTLESS STYLE New releases from Stoff and Stil 49 S TITCH THE LOOK Try stitching with viscose jersey today 80 YOUR SEWING GUIDE Sew like a pro!

90 T HE LBD How the frock came out of mourning and became a style classic

FREE NEXT MONTH

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TODAY!

FOUR OCCASION TOPS IN SIZES 4-26!

eight metres of christmas fabric. see p78

FREE*

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wear

who what

&

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

Precision cutting We really, really like Clover’s 13cm long Bordeaux Ultimate Shears.

They’re super sharp and give a lovely clean cut, which is very useful when snipping fabrics to exact measurements for quilting. We’ll be getting ourselves a longer pair for dressmaking, too. For stockists contact clover@stockist enquiries.co.uk

Embellishment in Fashion The Royal School of Needlework’s Embellishment in Fashion exhibition opens at Hampton Court Palace on 26th September. Visitors can enjoy a showcase of pieces from blouses and men’s waistcoats to purses, gloves and shoes, which all capture the style and versatility of embroidery and decorative threadwork from the 1700s-1900s. Pre-booking is essential, tours start from £16, royal-needlework.org.uk

*£2.50 off advance adult tickets, £1 off advance concessions. £1.50 booking fee applies per transaction. Valid until 20.09.2017

See you there

Get £2.50 off* with code SEWMAG17

The Knitting & Stitching Show is taking place in London’s Alexandra Palace from 11th-15th October. It’s the biggest textiles exhibition in the UK with workshops, galleries and the chance to do a touch of shopping and meet your favourite sewing names! Tickets from £14.50, theknittingandstitchingshow.com

LO❤E it! #suitsyou

Dressmaker of the Year winner Portia Lawrie’s #TheRefashioners2017 is challenging sewists worldwide to give old and unwanted suits a new lease of life! Be inspired by a month of really cool stitchy bloggers sharing their take on this eco-friendly fashion drive, before they hand the floor over to YOU in October – follow their lead and be in with the chance of winning a huge prize! Find out more at makery.uk 06

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Happy Birthday, Simplicity!

October is our favourite pattern house’s birthday, and we cannot wait to celebrate with them! The sewing world has been blessed for an amazing 90 years with current, user-friendly patterns like this Amazing Fit dress (Simplicity 2247, £8.95) and we can’t wait to see what the final leg to the centenary will bring.

Read more on p38 or visit simplicity newlook.com

if you buy one pattern...

We’re seeing the statement coat as a massive trend this season. It’s an easy way to add a splash of colour, and you’ll be surprised by how much it brightens up an overcast day.

New Look 6416, £6.95, simplicitynewlook.com

want it, need it, BUY IT!

If it’s smart tech you’re after, look no further than Baby Lock’s Enlighten, which has everything you could wish for from an overlocker – adjustable stitch width and length, a heavy-duty cutting system, 1,500 stitches per minute and 2, 3 or 4-thread options – with impressive features like the ExtraordinAir™ system, which takes thread through all the loopers with a gust of air, and at the touch of a button!

Find stockists at babylock.co.uk /merchants

Red bouclé coat, £68, next.co.uk

#Sew Saturday

WIN

fat quarters on p76

We’re so excited. October means our favourite day of the year! Visit your local sewing shop on the 21st for Sew Saturday to meet your stitchy idols, bag a bargain, learn something, and say thanks to the enthusiastic people who keep our haberdasheries running at the heart of our beloved craft. Plus, you’ll get loads of freebies, including this fab no-pattern tunic. Find your nearest participating store on our map at sewmag.co.uk/ local-sewing-shops

It’s HARVEST time Inspired by the glory of autumn, Tilda’s Harvest is a range of 100% cotton fabrics featuring birds, wild berries and cabbage flowers against a palette of deliciously rich colours.

There’s even a kit to make a cute little fox! For stockist information email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

07

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 8

sew DRESSMAKING

dress

the

making

collection

With the cosy autumn months drawing nearer, it’s time to treat your wardrobe to some new go-to pieces. Once you’ve enjoyed whipping up one of the tops in your FREE New Look pattern – or all four – look towards our no-pattern bell-sleeved top and midi skirt, or start sewing the classic dress and comfy coatigan.

Each one promises you’ll be wearing them with a smile!

Sophia dress, p41

Victoria skirt, p34

sew cover star Shauna coatigan, p26

Arabella top, p18

your free pattern

Turn overleaf and make a start with your FREE pattern!

help

here to

Bishop sleeve top, p10 LAUREN GUTHRIE

ALLISON NASH

FRANCES TOBIN

ABI DYSON

Our beloved Sew columnist guest edits your Stitch It Brother guide!

P3

In your mini mag, the guru explains In The Hoop embroidery.

P31

The sewing expert talks about sewing your own outer-wear.

P25

Simplicity’s vintage ambassador answers on retro patterns.

P45

09

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your free pattern

of your

FREE

pattern

potential

Discover the

This month, we’ve got a FREE New Look PATTERN worth £6.95 that will treat your handmade wardrobe to FOUR NEW TOPS. Whatever your style, you have the CHOICE to sew them up in a number of fabrics that you can pair with skirts, trousers, jeans and more! Better still, our friends at Minerva Crafts are on hand to offer us EXPERT ADVICE on sewing crepe.

Gütermann sew-all thread, from £1.85 each, minervacrafts.com

love LACE

Making only the sleeves of this top in lace will give it a feminine, elegant finish. Choose either a coordinating colour or go bold with a contrasting solid, or even a print! Lace fabric can be a bit tricky to sew, but because you’ll only be handling small pieces, take it slow and you will be fine.

neat as a NEW PIN Crepe is a slippery fabric, so using very fine pins goes a long way. If you only have regular plastic -headed ones, it’s better to use smooth objects to weigh it down instead. You’ll be surprised at the difference a good set of bridal pins can make – which are perfect for delicate fabrics and avoid damaging fibres – so grab a pack if you can.

what THREAD? We can’t stress enough the importance of using high-quality threads for long-lasting garments. Polyester ones are a good all-rounder as they have some stretch, which is particularly useful when adding bias strips at the cuffs and neckline.

the best NEEDLE

51 Shadesec8t0co0louarndm3 atches. were perf

Again, this choice will depend on the fabric you opt for. A universal needle will do a good job on many of the suggested fabrics – check these out on the envelope back. Just ensure you match the needle size to your fabric weight: 70 for medium and 60 for lightweights to avoid puckering and skipped stitches.

WEIGH it up

Prym bridal and lace pins, £3.89 for 320, minervacrafts.com

Butterfly print crepe, £13.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Light to medium-weight crepe fabrics are best suited to tops and blouses. Having said that, if you choose a heavier fabric such as triple crepe, your blouse will have a fabulous weight that will make for a classic evening top, whilst still having lots of drape.

Achieving a professional finish lies in the smaller details, so we colour matched our button loop! Elastic cord in orange, 19p per metre, minervacrafts.com

care for CREPE Crepe is often woven from polyester, silk, viscose or wool. It has wonderful drape, which makes it ideal for your free pattern – be sure to finish any raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlocker as it’s prone to fraying.

Hemline extra fine universal machine needles, £2.19 for five, minervacrafts.com

Cutting through multiple layers of thin fabric was a breeze with a rotary cutter. Fiskars titanium rotary cutter, £15.99, minervacrafts.com 10

sewmag.co.uk

We picked up this polka dot crepe at minervacrafts.com

E

sew DRESSMAKING

5 pattern

your free pattern

style selector

pieces!

With two choices each for the neckline, sleeves and hem, pattern pieces can easily be mixed and matched to create 12 different gorgeous blouses!

ve e neck and12slmeem Replace th h eces wit easier make binding pi a r bias tape fo n even

style a

ULTRA FEMININE Pair this voluminous and floaty pussybow neckline and bishop sleeve combo with a fitted skirt or bottoms for a stylish look.

A

style b

B

WORKWEAR WONDER This view is equally striking – whilst the short, contrast sleeves are more practical A for everyday wear.

A

C

B

style c

A

why we made STYLE D

The dropped back hem is both flattering and easy to wear, whilst the simple bound neckline made the bishop sleeves wearable for your everyday wardrobe. The straightforward pattern made tackling slippery crepe a breeze, with a big payoff!

SMART CASUAL Adding a button closure to the back and finishing the opening with simple binding shows off the gatheredAneckline.

B

C

B

style d

A

B

A

EASY BREEZY B Look effortlessly chic by combining bishop sleeves with a relaxed gathered neckline C and dropped back hem.

C

D

B

A

11

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C D

C

the perfect

size

the right

fit

your free pattern

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the readyto-wear size that you’d buy in the high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

make it yours If you don’t mind baring your shoulders, this pattern would lend itself well to being sleeveless. Simply omit the sleeve pieces, finish the raglan armhole seams with bias binding and leave space at the sides of your neck binding or collar.

feel free This blouse is cleverly shaped with the neck gathers and a slightly nipped-in waist, but has no tricky darts to contend with. If your waist or hips are proportionally larger than your bust, take it in above but not vice versa, as extra fabric below will work well with this flowing style.

neck and neck

EXTRA TIPS FOR SEWING CREPE

choice for Crepe is atogopsod, ke ing you long-sleevedbeing ligheptw ght warm but you won’t oveierheat enough that

Views C and D have a back button closure whereas you’ll fasten the other styles by tightening the bow.

As with any high-neck garment, check the fit around this area before stitching, ensuring you leave some ease for comfort.

3 Use a very sharp pair of scissors or rotary cutter to prevent the fabric shifting.

You can also pin a layer of tissue paper underneath to control movement and prevent distortion.

3 You’ll need to finish all edges to prevent fraying. French seams are a lovely way to make the inside of your garment as pretty as the outside, as they enclose the raw edges for an even neater finish.

3 If you find your fabric getting caught under the needle, use a walking foot to help guide it through.

3 Take your time. If you’ve never worked with it before, crepe can come as a bit of a shock. Use lots of fine pins, cut carefully and sew slowly!

12

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your way

make it

Get * 25% off

sew DRESSMAKING

Crepe & FREE delivery* with the code MINERVA CREPE

tinyurl.com/minervacrepe

why not TRY ************************

TEXTURED FINISH This medium-weight polyester crepe has a lovely soft drape and very slight crinkled texture. £2.99 per metre

er sewn witilh lcrbeepe If you’ve nevsy ints w before, bu npr ections forgiving to a y imperf

*Valid from 22/08/17 until 21/09/17 on all crepe fabrics at tinyurl.com/minervacrepe. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. Free delivery on orders over £20.

************************

Next month’s FREE pattern

EASY CARE This soft and drapey polycrepe has a gorgeous ‘layered leaves’ print that wouldn’t need pattern matching! £8.99 per metre ************************

SPECIAL FABRIC Treat yourself to a little luxury with this beautiful pure silk crepe – the print is sure to add a quirky touch. £26.99 per metre ************************

Choose from hundreds of crepes at minervacrafts.com

LITTLE EFFORT, BIG PAYOFF TOPS

An easy-make top with modern crossover back detailing, available in dress sizes 4-26.

13

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4 fab styles

SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 14

sew YOU!

You’ve been sharing great makes and telling us how long you’ve been in the game! ric I knew exactly When I saw this bee fab I know has gir le what to make... A litttt-Beles, so how ise nn Hu the surname set off s thi w ho could I resist? I loveks. loo t ou appliqué lay

I’ve just finished the amazing Lottie Jacket from Sew issue 100. I rarely use the recommended fabric, but this is just so luscious! It’s a really lovely pattern, too – I may make a button-down lined version using heavier fabric for cold weather.

Colleen Oakley

Caroline Marrow

Find the project and FREE template at sewmag.co.uk

I created this cushion myself from start to finish, as a special gift for a friend.

Nicky Hills

I made this wrap top and shorts from a vintage pattern – they’re more of a challenge than modern ones as the instructions aren’t as easy to follow!

Carol Clancy

I made this little unicorn for my 11-year-old niece from Sew issue 58 using lovely fabrics from Discover Direct.

Stephanie Marsh

Say Hell o to Bink y!

Each month on Facebook we ask you to help us choose a name for our upcoming issue’s mascot.

chosen by you p55

“I thought that Binky bunny had a nice ring to it, and it’s a fun name too!”

Samantha Currie, Sew reader

Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq 15

sewmag.co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! Mildred Garner I have been sewing for more than 40 years. I love it, although I still pull my hair out at times!

I upcycled a pair of jeans into a child’s apron, adding an appliqué heart and matching binding for the fastening!

not feline it!

This little neckerchief I made is actually for my daughter’s puppy – but in the pup’s absence, here it is modelled by my less than impressed cat!

Brill Stepshort

I just though t I’ show you wha d t made with th I e heart fabric I receiv ed my subscripti as on gift, I hope you lik e it!

Telval Wri ght

Gail Anderson

tempt This is my first at ecing Pi r pe Pa at English ed! ok (EPP) and I’m ho Amy Ball

labour of love I made!

Here’s a memory quilt

Nuria Davey I’ve only been sewing for five months, but I’m really enjoying myself!

Jump to it!

Janet Morgan

I’m really pleased with this jumpsuit!

Jacky Harding

on the sew blog...

New!

New!

New!

A how-to video on easily stitching the latest craze for keeping your hands occupied.

We have a BONUS cushion project to make using AGF’s Joyful Fusion range.

Find out more about what’s happening on Sew Saturday, coming up on 21st October.

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 16

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU!

HHHH HH

This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

sew

H

tag your

make!

Carol Calvert-Brown

STAR

I had my first machine at eight years old and started making my own clothes as a teenager, but never dared to wear them because I was embarrassed to say that I had made it myself!

letter

H

Chloé LewisBrooks

It’s been two years since I started sewing... and now it’s my job!

job

top ement, I have taken an early retir migrate to ly nt ce Having re to nd nds and te more time on my ha rainy days. My wardrobe is on om ro ng I made my sewi y more dresses... so struggling to hold anI used New Look K6483 for some tops instead! the floral ones were adapted t the white one, whilss I had previously made. se es dr m fro Emma Franklin

#SEWTAGYOURMAKE @sewhq I’ve been turning the kids’ school uniforms into memory bears! So far this dude, next I’ll be tackling a school uniform unicorn! Kirsty Lane #SewTagYourMake

Kirsty has won a bundle of fat quarters by Gütermann. To find out how to enter, turn to p76!

stitch&share triumphs with Sew! hy itc st st te la ur yo e Shar Cacti cutie

Linda Beaumont I still love making clothes after more than 60 years!

My latest make, cute child’s shorts. Just need some sunshine now!

Jo Cox

make it yours I used the pattern that came free with your July issue to make this African wax printed kimono – I had a go at lining for the first time, so it’s more suitable for the British ‘summer’!

Sariat Olatunji

count down So, I’ve started working on my new advent calendar... in July!

Lucie Nicholson

Dream denim Christmas charity

Here is an A-line dress that I stitched using a stretch denim.

Tina Ludlow

Recently, I’ve been getting a few Christmas things ready to raise money for the British Heart Foundation.

Gill Cowlam

Share your makes via social media or send by email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 17

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Ring the bell (sleeves) in our

ARABELLA BLOUSE

1 METRE MAKE!

create a BELL SLEEVE TOP

Wide, flared and ruffled sleeves have been one of 2017's hottest trends, especially elbow-length versions like this chic red top has – which are super flattering, easy to move in and fun to wear! You can further customise Julia Claridge's no-pattern make by increasing or decreasing the extra gathering width on the ruffle to make this style work for you.

Cutting diagram 11cm 1.5cm

3cm 3cm

10cm

Get started

Armhole width +1.5cm

BACK NECKLINE FRONT NECKLINE

• Linen*

Fold

SLEEVE

CENTRE FRONT AND BACK

Fold

• 12mm single-fold bias binding, 70cm *Quantity depends on size. A size 10 (87cm bust) used 1m of fabric (140cm wide)

Sizes

SLEEVE MARK

1/4 of Measurement A + 4.75cm

Custom-sized

Cutting guide

Note: start by taking your bust, waist 11cm and hip measurements.

The largest 1.5cm of these will be measurement A

3cm

10cm Front/back panel: cut two (divide BACK measurement A in four, add 4.75cm NECKLINE = width) x (desired length* plus FRONT 3.5cm) on the fold NECKLINE

Sleeve: cut two (armhole width** plus 1.5cm) x 16cm^ on the fold

Armhole width +1.5cm

3cm

Fold

SLEEVE

CENTRE FRONT AND BACK

Fold

SLEEVE MARK

Ruffle: cut two (armhole width plus 12cm) x 19cm on the fold *Side of neck to hem length ** See step 3 ^ Sleeve length 1/4 of Measurement A + 4.75cm 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

1

Cut all of the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide.

Fold the back in half lengthways, right sides together. Measure 11cm from the fold on the upper edge and mark. From the top nonfolded corner at the selvedge, measure down 3cm and mark.

Draw a line between these points and cut to shape the shoulder.

Repeat with the front piece.

2

On the back piece, folded in half, measure down 1.5cm along the folded edge and draw a slightly curved line to the first mark you made on the top edge (11cm in). Repeat on the front piece, beginning the curved line 10cm down from the folded edge to form the neckline.

3

Pin the sleeves right sides together and fold in half so the short edges meet.

Measure 3cm down along the non -folded short edge, then draw a slightly curved line from this point to the centre of the short top edge (see diagram). Cut to form the sleeve head. Measure the width of your sleeve piece (armhole width

plus 1.5cm) down from each top corner of the front piece and mark.

4

Pin the front and back pieces right sides together, sew the shoulder seams and press them open. Press in 1cm around the neckline, then unfold. Open out bias binding and pin it slightly above the crease, right sides together. Stitch around, then fold the top 1cm and binding over to the inside of the top. Edgestitch along the bottom of the tape.

5

Make two parallel rows of long gathering stitches within the seam allowance along a long edge of a sleeve ruffle. Gently pull the threads until the ruffle width matches that of the straight

18

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long edge of the sleeves, evenly distributing the gathers. Pin to the upper sleeve, right sides together, and stitch in place.

Press the seam upwards.

6

Lay the sleeve piece on top of the main body piece, matching the centre of the sleeve head to the shoulder seam, right sides together. Pin, then sew in place. Match the front and back pieces, right sides together. Pin the underarm and side seams, then stitch along both in one continuous line. Clip the curved seam at the underarm. Turn a double 5mm seam at the sleeve hems and a double 1cm seam along the bottom hemline, then stitch both.

sew DRESSMAKING

+

÷

Do the MATH!

The following is based on a size 10 (87cm bust) with a desired length of 73cm and armhole width of 24cm. If the largest of the bust, waist and hips is 87cm, measurement A is 87.

Front/Back panel: (87 [A] ÷ 4 = 21.75, + 4.75* = 26) x (73 [length] + 3.5** = 76.5) 26cm x 77cm Sleeve: (24 [armhole] + 1.5 = 25.5) x 16 25.5cm x 16cm Sleeve ruffle: (25.5 [sleeve] + 12^ = 37.5) x 19 37.5cm x 19cm *Extra 4.75cm width is for ease (3.25cm) plus seam allowance (1.5cm). ** Extra 3.5cm length is for shoulder seam (1.5cm) plus double hem (2cm). ^Extra 12cm width is for gathering.

Jeans, £19.99, Uniqlo, Necklace, £16, Mood by Jon Richard at Debenhams

sew

SHOPPER ************************

LIVELY LINEN This subtly textured, mediumheavyweight linen in a modern poppy red is perfect for transitioning weather. £11.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

19

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drape

CREPE

*Valid from 22/08/17 to 21/09/17 on all crepe fabrics at tinyurl.com/minervacrepe.

Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Free delivery on orders over £20.

Crepe lends itself perfectly to dressmaking – in fact, its fluid drape deserves to be shown off on a moving body. There are many different compositions available, from easy-sew, smooth polyester types to breathable, slippery silks and textured wools. You can also get incredibly lightweight versions through to heavier triple crepes – just consider how they will hang before choosing one for your garment.

Be aware that the fabric is woven, so any raw edges will require finishing.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Stripe print in camel brown,

Soft touch in quail,

2

3 1

25% off *

crepe fabrics at Minerva Crafts with code MINERVA CREPE

£9.99 per metre £3.99 per metre

Linen-look in chocolate brown,

6

£7.99 per metre

Prestige polycrepe in champagne,

4

£14.99 per metre

Animal print in gold and brown,

£7.99 per metre

Satin-backed bridal crepe in new gold, £8.99 per metre Heavy triple crepe in chestnut,

£16.99 per metre

7

5

Soft polycrepe in brown, £7.99 per metre

8

All of the featured fabrics are available at minervacrafts.com 20

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 21

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Kiddiewinks will be super comfy with this

BOBBY T-SHIRT

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a

CHILD'S TOP Get started • Double-sided striped cotton jersey (150cm wide), 60cm • Plain jersey, 20cm x 80cm • Ballpoint machine needle

Sizes To fit: ages one to five years

Cutting guide STRIPED JERSEY: Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut two PLAIN JERSEY: Neckband: cut two Lower band: cut one 1.5cm seam allowance used, unless otherwise stated.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Fold the selvedges of the striped jersey fabric inwards to accommodate the pattern pieces that are cut on the fold, then snip the pieces according to the cutting guide.

Repeat for the plain jersey pieces and transfer all of the pattern markings.

2

Press the front neckband in half, wrong sides together and aligning the long raw edges,

Cotton jersey tees are a gentle choice for delicate skin and this top's wide envelope neckline makes it easier to slip onto busy toddlers. This classic design is surprisingly simple to make and a great introduction to sewing knit fabrics, using a ballpoint needle and stretch stitch. Opting for a striped jersey also provides the opportunity to practise pattern matching – giving you a slick professional finish. You can also extend the sleeves to make a warmer version. then open it out again. With right sides together, pin the neckband along the neckline at the front, easing it across the full length. Using a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch, sew the neckband in place with a 5mm seam allowance.

3

Re-fold the neckband along the centre crease and bring the remainder of the strip over to the wrong side of the front piece.

Fold under the raw edges of the neckband and pin. Set your machine to a straight stitch and sew the neckband in place, 3mm-5mm from the folded edge. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to attach the back neckband to the T-shirt back.

4

Lay the T-shirt front right side up then, as the pattern markings indicate, overlap the back piece on top to create the shoulder seams and pin in place. Set your machine to a stretch stitch and sew the shoulder seams on each side with a 5mm seam allowance. Open out the garment and lay it right side up. With right sides together, pin and stitch the sleeves to the joined front and back pieces along the shoulder seams.

5

Pin the front and back together along the underarm and side seams, right sides together, aligning the raw edges.

Stitch the side seams, starting from the bottom and working up to the armpit and along to the end of the cuff, leaving the last 6cm open.

Turn the garment right side out and sew the open sections of the

g plain Choose a coordinatinelop jersey to bind the env e neck cuffs to create a seam on the right side of the sleeves.

6

Fold 1cm over to the wrong side around the base of the sleeves and stitch in place.

Turn up each cuff by 2.5cm twice, and press. You can create neat turn-ups and ensure the seam is invisible from the outisde by working the lower part of the sleeve with the seam outermost.

7

Fold the lower band strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, aligning the two short edges. Pin, then stitch the short edges together to form a loop, and press the seam open. Fold the loop in half widthwise, right sides out, so the seam on the inside. Pin and stitch the strip to the bottom edge of the T-shirt with a 5mm seam allowance, right sides together and aligning the raw edges and the seam in the loop with one of the side seams. Press the contrast band down, then the seam allowance up

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towards the body of the T-shirt.

Trim any thread ends and press to neaten.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

STRIPE FORCE Try this deep teal oatmeal cotton jersey, £6.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

sew DRESSMAKING

READER OFFER

Photography by Emma Mitchell © CICO Books

To purchase a copy at the special price of £9.99, including free p&p, call 01256 302699 quoting KE7. For more information, visit makeetc.com

get the

book

Find more lovely youngsters' garments like this to make in Sewing for Babies and Children by Laura Strutt, £12.99, CICO Books.

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 24

With autumn approaching, Frances Tobin of The Maker’s Atelier advises on how to

WRAP UP IN STYLE

It’s only human nature to notice what people wear and if you think about it, it’s your coat that makes your first impression. If making your own outerwear seems out of your depth, rest assured that it isn’t as difficult as it looks.

keep it SIMPLE At this time of year there are lots of lightweight outerwear options that make great additions to our wardrobes and are achievable sewing projects too, even for the novice. Capes, cardigan and wrap-style jackets have been everywhere at designer catwalk shows and are a great place for aspiring coat-makers to start because they aren’t too structured. I like to keep things simple for my transitional jackets or coats.

With unlined outerwear, it’s best to finish seams with a binding. A friend recently recommended an American style rayon seam binding to me and I was delighted with the results; it’s much softer than polycotton or even pure cotton versions. I used a 14mm wide binding, which I simply pressed in half lengthways and stitched, sandwiching the exposed fabric edge inside.

GIVE IT the edge

Of course, it isn’t always necessary to bind your seams – if your fabric doesn’t fray you can just leave the raw edge showing. I love raw edges; they can often give a garment a really contemporary feel. If you’ve never tried leaving your edges unfinished before, I have a few handy tips. First, you obviously need a fabric that won’t fray: boiled wools, wool Melton, suede and leathers work well. Your cut edges will need to be extremely neat, so practise your cutting skills on a small amount of fabric first. If using regular tailoring shears, keep the lower blade resting on the surface of your table as you cut and don’t close the scissor blades fully, but move forward before the end of each snip – this means you’ll be able to get a much straighter line. The same applies if you are using pinking shears, as it’s easier to realign the scissor teeth with this technique. If you are brave enough, you could use a rotary cutter and cutting board – I’m always worried I’ll cut too far, personally.

This autumn, you can expect to see more wrapped and belted coats and jackets around.

sew DRESSMAKING

Jacket with feature and stpopper itching

nking Leather with piedge w ra sheared

styles that SUIT Typically, fabrics for outerwear can be thicker and more expensive than the usual sewing project. For this reason, I often avoid buttonholes as a finishing option. I love the auto-buttonhole function on my sewing machine – but the size is limited, and if the stitching isn’t perfect I’m loath to cut open the buttonhole and ruin the fabric that I’ve invested in. So, I use a range of alternatives. For more sporty styles I like press-stud fastenings, which are available in a variety of colours. Another option is medium to large sized sew-on poppers – if my stitching shows on the right side of the fabric, I make a feature of it. There’s nothing worse than unintentional stitching showing through!

Another alternative are sew-on magnetic clips, which work well with slightly thicker fabrics.

This autumn you can expect to see more wrapped and belted coats and jackets around, so you may want to wear a fabric tie-belt or even a shop bought one; wide leather belts are especially on trend too. If your waist isn’t your best feature, some lighter weight jackets look great fastened with a kilt pin or decorative brooch – avoiding those tricky buttonholes There are plenty of altogether! alternatives to buttonholes

Unlined coat with popper fastening

Tur Cha one

cket Unlined wrap ja

Browse Frances’ chic range of sewing patterns at themakersatelier.com 25

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Stay warm and chic during cooler months in a

SHAUNA COATIGAN

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a SHAWL COLLAR COAT Get started

• BouclÊ (150cm wide), 2.5m fabric

Sizes

One size (fits 8-16, hanging accordingly to your shape)

Cutting guide

Coat back: cut one on the fold Coat front: cut one pair Front & back sleeve: cut one pair of each Front facing: cut one pair Under collar: cut one on the fold Pocket: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used, unless stated otherwise.

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Check your bust and hip measurement against the pattern to ensure that it will fit you, adjusting if necessary. Cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide.

2

Overlock or zigzag stitch the top part of the pockets (see Core Skills panel), turn over along the fold line and stitch down the corner that will sit nearest to the centre front of the coat on both. Trim any bulk from the corners, then turn the pocket facings back to the wrong side.

Set your sewing machine to a larger stitch and sew a row along the seam line, 1cm away from the cut edge.

3

Is it a coat? Is it a cardigan? One thing we know for certain is that Amanda Walker's slip-on garment looks stunning in this textured bouclĂŠ fabric. With no buttonholes required, this is a great introduction for coat-making newbies, requiring just basic stitching techniques along with overlocking or zigzag stitch to neaten the seams. You could always make a waist tie to fasten it from any leftover fabric.

Pull the threads of the stitching line up slightly to help the edge of the pockets roll over to the wrong side in a consistent line, and form a smooth curve to the base corners. When happy that the seam allowance is folding back neatly, press the edge of the fold. Position the pockets at the notches indicated on the side seams of the coat front, pin and edgestitch in place, along and across the base and up the opposite side.

4

Pin and stitch the front sleeves to the front coat pieces, right sides together.

Overlock or zigzag stitch the seam allowances together, pressing the seam down towards the sleeve.

Repeat with the back sleeves and the back coat piece.

5

Lay the front coat and sleeve pieces onto the back coat and sleeves, right sides together, matching the shoulder edges of the sleeves. Pin and stitch from the base of the sleeve to the neckline. Overlock or zigzag the seam allowance and press towards the back of the coat.

6

Position and match the centre back of the under collar to the centre back of the coat neckline, then pin the remainder of the under collar around the neckline and stitch in place. Match the centre-back edges of the front facing pieces right sides together, pin, and stitch the centre-back part together.

Press the seam open.

To lengthen or shorten the garment, adjust the front and back pieces accordingly as indicated on the pattern 26

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: THREESTEP ZIGZAG

Unlike a regular zigzag stitch, which is one stitch from point to point, a three-step zigzag is three stitches from point to point. This type of machine zigzag stitch is a great alternative to overlocking for neatening seam edges, as it is flatter than a regular zigzag, and similar to a straight stitch, keeping the fabric from bunching up. To use it to sew the seam allowances together, stitch the layers of the fabric at any point you desire within the seam allowance, then trim off any excess afterwards.

Top, £8.99, H&M, jeans, £24.99, TK Maxx, bag, £59, Debenhams, shoes, £29.50, Marks & Spencer

7

Lay the coat out flat, right side up. Pin and stitch the facing around the neckline and down each front edge, starting at one base of the facing up around the collar and down to the adjacent base front edge. At the hem edge of each facing, fold up and press a 4cm hem, then stitch across at this point.

Trim the bulk from the corners, clip around the neckline, then turn the facings to the inside of the coat.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

8

Turn under the neck edge of the front collar part of the facing and hand or machine stitch the edge to the neckline. Turn the coat wrong side out, matching the sleeve and side seams together, pin and stitch in one continuous seam from the base of the sleeve to the hem of the coat. Press the seams open. Overlock or zigzag around the base of the sleeves and the coat, press up the hems, pin, then hand stitch in place.

BEAUTIFUL BOUCLÉ We used a striking indigo cotton stretch bouclé. £14.90 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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1 IRON ON

These decorative patches have dried glue on the reverse, which melts under a dry, hot iron and sticks to a wide variety of fabrics.

Good quality ones with strong glue can last well over time. Hot air balloon, £3.99 for a set of five, myfabrichouse.co.uk

2 STICK ON

If you want to reposition a patch or put it on a non -ironable surface, stick-on ones are your best bet.

However, they can easily lift away. Swallows, £3.49 for two, jenniemaizels. com. Prym sewing motifs, £4.89 for four, minervacrafts.com

3 VINYL

It’s easy to create your own slogan tees, personalise items with letters, or create custom designs from vinyl transfers. They add virtually no bulk or weight, which is great for lightweight stretch fabrics. Iron-on vinyl letters, £2.29 for 40, minervacrafts.com

PATCH it up

4 REPAIR

Iron-on patches can help extend the life of garments by protecting small rips and covering unsightly marks. They’re available in a range of sizes and different finishes too.

Hemline cotton twill mending patch, £2.99 for nine, minervacrafts.com

5 SEW ON

Sewing patches in place is often the best option for a permanent and secure fix.

This can be done by hand or machine using running stitch and matching thread, or you can use a contrasting colour around the edges to decorate further. We found ours in a charity shop!

1 2 3

DIY motifs

It’s easy to create your own patch – simply cut a shape from fabric, which you can embroider or decorate as you like beforehand, apply fusible webbing to the reverse and iron in place as with shop-bought ones. Vlieseline Bondaweb, for stockists contact crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk

5 4

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2

Sewing with MayMartin M

WHAT I’VE BEEN MAKING THIS MONTH

One of my latest challenges has been making a dress out of a fabric with tiny sequins!

When working with sequinned fabrics, I advise that you mount it onto lining and treat it as a one-way or napped fabric, cutting out all the pattern pieces in the same direction.

I also strongly recommend putting a new fine needle in your machine and using fine pins and hand sewing needles to carefully tack the pieces together. The care I took to to do this saved me a lot of time unpicking in the long run!

SEW'S EXCLUSIVE COLUMNIST DISCUSSES TRANSFERRING PATTERN MARKINGS ONTO FABRIC You should endeavour to mark fabric before cutting wherever possible.

There are various techniques for transferring pattern markings to ensure the pieces match up accurately, and that details such as darts or pockets are correctly positioned.

ng it, alwawys Before usi e tracing brheicel check thatmthage your fa won’t da

TRACING WHEEL AND DRESSMAKER’S CARBON PAPER This is ideal for marking any stitching, grain and placement lines (such as for pockets and buttonholes) quickly and accurately. The tracing wheel has a serrated edge that punctures the carbon paper and leaves a row of dots on your fabric.

The carbon comes in different

colours – test different coloured papers on a scrap of your chosen cloth beforehand, as it may not come off! Be gentle when marking darts or details on the middle of the garment piece where they will be more visible, in case the markings are too firmly printed and prove difficult to rub away.

I love the feeling of pure silk – it's warm in winter and cool in summer.

I had a beautiful vibrant print in my stash waiting to made up, and recently turned it into a wonderful lounge-wear outfit, consisting of a pair of palazzo pants and a top.

TAILOR’S TACKS

The latest gifts I've made for my grandchildren are a couple of little Moses baskets, complete with baby dolls. The baskets are oval with pelmet buckram stiffening the sides, quilted bases and fabric handles.

I also made tiny patchwork quilts with matching pillows and little fleece blankets as well. These make lovely presents and will be added to a list of possible makes at my Christmas workshops – watch this space!

TO MARK DARTS AND SINGLE DOTS

Happy stitching,

May

SEE P80 FOR A GUIDE TO THE BASIC SYMBOLS YOU’LL FIND ON COMMERCIAL PATTERNS

This is a method of marking and transferring key points (see sections below), particularly darts, tucks, and seam lines, onto fabric – usually a double layer. It's best to use a doubled thread in a colour that will show up, although I wouldn't advise using a dark thread on light fabric because it may leave fibres on the cloth that won't come out! When marking a crowded area, use different thread colours – such as with tucks that are close together or overlap.

Pick up the first spot and leave a 2.5cm tail [A]. Pick up the spot again and create a 2.5cm loop, then cut the thread, leaving another 2.5cm tail. Repeat [B and C]. Remove the pattern carefully without cutting the loops. Gently pull the two layers of fabric apart slightly and snip the threads between them.

A

B

C

TO TRANSFER LINES Work a series of looped tacking stitches through the pattern and fabric. Make a loop every other stitch, ensuring they are at least 2.5cm long.

Lift the pattern off carefully. Gently separate the two fabric layers and cut the threads in between.

May’s

TOP TIPS

l Use hole reinforcements on your paper pattern to prevent it from tearing when pulling it off your tailor's tacks.

Don't cut through the loops on top of the pattern, as these keep the fabric layers anchored when separating them to snip the threads in between.

l It can be difficult to mark a line accurately using tailor's tacks, while a tracing wheel and carbon may not be suitable for delicate or easily marked fabrics. An alternative is to make the tiniest clip with the tips of really sharp scissors at the ends of each centre front and fold lines. l Dressmaker's chalk triangles are ideal for marking soft furnishings, while chalk wheels or pencils are good for finer details. Use air or water soluble marker pens with great care, as the marks become permanent when you press them with a hot iron!

For more dressmaking advice, be sure to pick up May Martin's Sewing Bible: 40 Years of Tips and Tricks, £25, harpercollins.co.uk 29

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Pop along to your local sewing shop for this year’s event!

Find out more at sewmag.co.uk/ sew-saturday

C

oming up on Saturday 21st October, sewing and haberdashery shops across the UK will be joining us for the stitchiest day of the year. Now in its third run, the Sew Saturday campaign aims to bring people of all ages and abilities together at their local sewing shop for a day of stitchy activites, demonstrations, make & takes – and more! Here, we catch up with just a few sewing shops that are taking part. Pop the date in your diary and check out your nearest participating store to pledge your support – it’s not to be missed!

Be inspired at SEW CREATIVE “Sew Saturday coincides with our shop’s opening anniversary, so we’re combining the two exciting celebrations. This year will be our third event and we really push the boat out; our customers expect that and we have never disappointed them!

Our plans aren’t finalised yet, but our team always run demonstrations showing different techniques, fabrics, accessories, interfacings and machines. We have a customer and sewing tutor team challenge, which last year used a pyjamas pattern, and we always have lots of tea and cake as well as balloons and badges. We create kits for the Sew Saturday mascot and have loads of customer deals on the day. We embrace any event that highlights physical sewing and fabric shops and are lucky to have the support of local customers – we recently held our Sewing Bee challenge too, which was a great success!”

Find Sew Creative at: 20-22 Lavant Street, Petersfield, GU32 3EW 01730 858020, sewcreative.org.uk

Sew for charity at CALICO KATE “My mother gave me the wonderful gift of teaching me how to sew; without that gift, there would be no Calico Kate. For this year’s Sew Saturday, our project is to support the Romanian Aid Foundation (roaf.org). ‘Joy in a Box’ is an opportunity for people here to send a small parcel of gifts to people in need in Romania. My aim is to fill 70 shoeboxes with gifts for children – with so much inspiration and patterns produced by Sew magazine over the last year, there are lots to choose from. Please join me and sew, knit or crochet something for Romania!”

Find Calico Kate at: 36 High Street, Lampeter, South West Wales, SA48 7BB 01570 422866, calicokate.co.uk

Coffee and more in COLES SEWING CENTRE “We aren’t available on the day but love Sew Saturday so much that we’ll be holding our coffee morning a week later, on Saturday 28th October. Drop in between 10am and 1pm, and join us for demonstrations, giveaways, exclusive in-store offers, and take part in our charity sewing project – or just come along for coffee, cake and a chat!”

Find Coles Sewing Centre at: 90 Lower Parliament Street, Nottingham, NG1 1EH 0115 9881551, colessewingcentre.co.uk

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Have lots of fun at MILLIE MOON SHOP

Pop along to JAYLAURS SEWING STUDIO

“We love Sew Saturday and have been taking part since it launched! It’s now a regular fixture on the calendar and our customers always look forward to it – we always have special offers, guest workshops (last year we had Hetty & Dave), a charity raffle for Project Linus, face painters, balloons and of course, plenty of cake. It’s more important than ever to show how good independents are – and we love what we do!”

“This is our third year taking part in Sew Saturday, our most popular sewing event where our customers come from all over Lincolnshire and the Humber. We have free mini workshops throughout the day, competitions, demonstrations, habby and fabric discounts, plus refreshments!

Our store really appreciates Sew magazine helping to promote bricks and mortar businesses.”

Find Millie Moon Shop at: 24-25 Catherine Hill, Frome, Somerset, BA11 1BY 01373 464437, milliemoonshop.co.uk

Find Jaylaurs Sewing Studio at: 54 Wrawby Street, Brigg, North Lincolnshire, DN20 8JE 01652 650047, search for Jaylaurs Sewing Studio on Facebook.

Make our mascot at SEW AND SEA “Last year was a great day for us! It was our first year of business, and Sew Saturday was a really fun way of encouraging people to get sewing. We had people come from all over because of the campaign in Sew magazine – including some gents, which we were pleasantly surprised by. Because of the success, we ran more ‘make and take’ workshops after the event! This year we’ll be open all day, and people can drop in and hand sew a small project, based on the Sew Saturday mascot. It’s very sociable and we have a lot of laughter, plus there’ll be free tea and coffee, biscuits, and great company. For us, Sew Saturday helps to raise the profile of sewing as an enjoyable and satisfying activity for all ages, and brings people into our shop to look around, feel the fabrics, and meet and talk to us. It raises the profile of the small and caring shop – the ones that give free advice and sort out sewing problems!”

Find Sew and Sea at: 24 Brunswick Street, Teignmouth, Devon, TQ14 8AF 07914601458, sewandsea.co.uk

Get creative at SEW INSPIRED “I signed up to Sew Saturday for the first time this year, as I’m a new business and hoping to raise awareness of my shop and website. I want to encourage both younger and older people to sew – whether that’s dressmaking, quilting or another technique! Sewing is very much a therapy, especially after a hard day’s work, and is such a good form of relaxation. When you’ve made a dress, skirt or even accomplished a quilt, it gives you such a sense of achievement.”

JULIE DEUCHARS, SHOP OWNER Find Sew Inspired at: Holwood Business Centre, Blunts, Landrake, Cornwall, PL12 5DW 01752 851155, sewinspiredplymouth.co.uk “Sew Saturday is a celebration of the many benefits that old fashioned bricks have over high tech clicks. Visiting and supporting your local fabric shop is the perfect way to connect with a real community of likeminded people, and is a chance to see, touch, compare and be inspired by what your local has to offer.”

Participating Sew Saturday stores will have access to our exclusive projects, like this year’s mascot...

Daisy Dachshund!

Have fun at PATCHWORK GARDEN “This is the second year that Patchwork Garden has taken part in Sew Saturday, and we can’t wait for the event! It’s a great way for us to show how grateful we are to our customers for their year round support with competitions, demos and of course the odd slice of cake! New customers are welcome to join in the fun too, with a special workshop on modern appliqué techniques including working with jersey.”

Is your local taking part?

You can easily see if your local sewing shop is taking part with our handy interactive map! All you have to do is enter your postcode to bring up a list of your nearest Sew Saturday shops. Visit sewmag.co.uk/local-sewing-shops

Find Patchwork Garden at: 630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield, S7 2BA 0114 258 3763, thepatchworkgarden.co.uk

STUART HILLARD, SEWING PERSONALITY

Turn to page 82 to view our directory of participating Sew Saturday stores!

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KS FR O M I

ND

EP

EN

NDIE pattern news

SIZ

TO

IC PP

2 16-3 S E

DE NT

D E SI G N E R S

Poppy top & dress

by By Hand London Difficulty: Try Poppy if you’re looking for a chilled out, relaxed garment that’s both a pleasure to stitch and wear. It features box-pleat shaping, T-shirt or full-length raglan sleeves, and can be made up as a comfy top, elegant midi or a maxi sheath dress with fisheye darts. It’s a great first project for sewing lightweight knits too. £9 (PDF), byhandlondon.com

SIZES 6 -2

-18

SIZ

E

0 S8

venus dress

by I Am

Difficulty: Layering Venus with a variety of other pieces is easy, and will see you right through to winter – the sweet double collar would peep out of a jumper’s neckline nicely. The construction is simple, with no tricky shaping to contend with, so you can focus on neatening the collar feature if it’s your first time. £13.50, backstitch.co.uk

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sew DRESSMAKING

Webster top and dress

by Cashmerette

pattern

pick

Difficulty: Curvy ladies, enjoy stitching and feeling fab wearing Webster!

The playful cross-over back and ‘bra-friendly’ V-neck bodice is semi-fitted, transitioning into a loose high-low skirt. The elegant and fun design can be made either as a tunic or a knee-length dress in a variety of fabrics, from cotton lawn to silk charmeuse. £10.75 (PDF), £13.82 (paper), cashmerette.com

SIZES 4-2 0

Kalle is fun, funky, flattering and feminine.

We’re flabbergasted.

The sew team

Kalle shirt and shirt dress

by Closet Case Difficulty: Shirts, and even shirt dresses, can often come up a tad too formal for everyday wear, but Kalle’s dramatically curved hem brings this piece right back down to earth. All versions are based on a loose silhouette, with cuffed kimono sleeves and a curved yoke. There are loads of personalisation options too for the cropped, tunic and dress lengths. £10.67 (PDF), £13.72 (paper), closetcasepatterns.com

Birdie bomber jacket

by Sew This Pattern Difficulty: You’ll be surprised at how easy this unlined jacket and its raglan dolman sleeves are to sew. Beginners will learn how to insert a ribbed collar, hem and cuffs, plus an open-ended zipper with ease – there is even a great guide to shortening them!

Make it from practically any light to medium weight fabric. £4.79, sewthispattern.com 1 8 6 ES IZ

Tello jacket

by Pauline Alice Difficulty:

ZE SI

S

We were saddened by the end of summer – until we saw Tello, that is. It’s an unlined classic utility jacket – a perfect description, given the number of pockets. We would suggest using contrast threads for the topstitching on the collar, taking this already chic and striking garment up a level. £13.50, backstitch.co.uk S 6-20

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Follow our easiest-ever no-pattern guide to make the

VICTORIA MIDI

This simple garment by Amanda Walker truly is a masterpiece. It uses the full width of your fabric for minimal waste, has much-coveted pockets, and only requires you to stitch in a straight line! For a really flattering midi length, position the bottom hemline on the most narrow part of your calves. We used a beautiful heavyweight crepe georgette from stoffstil.co.uk

stitch a SIMPLE SKIRT Get started • Heavyweight fabric, 150cm wide • Fusible lightweight interfacing • Buttons, six Note: quantity of fabric depends on size/length. An 87cm-long size 10 (72cm waist) skirt used 1.25m.

Sizes Custom-sized

Cutting guide

Skirt: cut one 150cm x (desired length plus 4.5cm) piece from fabric Waistband: cut one 10cm x (waist measurement plus 8cm) strip each from fabric and interfacing Pocket: cut two 21cm x 23cm rectangles from fabric 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

1

Cut out all pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Fuse the waistband interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric piece, plus a 3cm-wide strip of interfacing along the wrong side of each selvedge edge of the skirt. Neaten the raw edges, fold the selvedges in by 3cm and press (don't stitch yet).

2

Neaten one short edge of a pocket piece, fold it over by 3cm to the wrong side, and

the other edges in by 1cm, then press. Stitch across 2.5cm down from the upper pocket edge.

Clip the corners, then pin 18cm down from the upper edge of the skirt so each pocket is 20cm in from the folded selvedge.

Edgestitch around the sides and bottom.

3

Work two parallel rows of long stitches 5mm apart along the upper edge of the skirt.

Gently pull the threads, evenly distributing the gathers, until the width is 5cm more than your waist measurement.

4

Pin the waistband to the gathered edge of the skirt, right sides together, with 1.5cm overlap at each selvedge edge. Pin, stitch in place, then fold it in half lengthways and stitch across each short end. Tuck it over inside the skirt and pin in place, then stitch in the ditch to secure (See Core Skills panel).

5

Neaten the lower hemline with a zigzag stitch or overlocker, fold a 3cm hem and press. Tuck up the bottom of the front facing, then stitch the ends along the pressed line of the hem. Clip the corners and secure the facing with hand stitches.

6

Beginning at the top of one selvedge edge, machine stitch the facing and hemline 2.5cm down from the folded edge, working down the facing, then across the hem and up the other side. Stitch a buttonhole on the right-hand side of the waistband, plus five more at 10cm intervals down the right-hand front facing. Add corresponding buttons on the left.

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: STITCH IN THE DITCH

This technique is used to attach the waistband to the skirt, as a stronger alternative to catch stitching. Press well on the right and wrong sides, then stitch on the right side, as close as you can get to the lower edge of the waistband. Work slowly, ensuring you catch the edge of the waistband on the wrong side.

÷

You may be able to use fabrics with a different width – just be aware that it will affect the volume of gathers at your waist.

+

Top, £14.90, Uniqlo, Shoes, £12.99, TK Maxx

Do the MATH!

The following is based on a size 10 (72cm waist) with a desired length of 87cm.

Skirt: 150 x (87 [length] + 4.5* = 91.5) 150cm x 91.5cm Waistband: 10 x (72 [waist] + 8** = 80) 10cm x 80cm *Extra 4.5cm length is for the hem (3cm) plus waistband seam allowance (1.5cm). ** Extra 8cm width is for ease (2cm), overlap (3cm) plus seam allowances (3cm).

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 14/08/2017 15:27 Page 36

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sew DRESSMAKING

Lauren Guthrie

N

“Now is a great time to start thinking about transitional garments that will see you through to autumn!”

ow that summer is starting to fade away, opportunities for wearing kaftans and breezy maxi dresses are few and far between, so it’s a great time to start thinking about transitional makes that will see you through to the cooler days in autumn. That’s why being able to layer at this time of year is key for me.

This means dresses and skirts that would look nice with tights or leggings as well as bare legs, and tops that can easily be paired with a cardigan or jumper.

I’ve recently been eyeing up the Juniper cardigan from Jennifer Lauren Handmade.

It’s designed for jersey fabrics and has saddle shoulder details, giving you the chance to colour block, plus it has a flattering V-neckline and two length and sleeve variations. If you plan on pairing a dress up with a cardigan, it’s best to go for styles that aren’t too full under the arm – so set-in or more fitted raglan sleeves or dresses without any at all are ideal. Pauline Alice's Aldaia dress is a lovely pattern, with different skirt and bodice options that can be mixed and matched to your preference. It’s designed for stretch fabrics, but if you prefer woven varieties, the Sewaholic Harwood dress is also lovely with its cinched-in elastic waist and floaty skirt. This style looks lovely made in a lightweight fabric like viscose, and we have just had lots of lovely new ones arrive in the shop for autumn.

We currently have a summer sale to make way for lots more gorgeous autumn fabrics, and this year I am looking to source a new range of waxed cottons – perfect for raincoats. I want to make the Kelly anorak by Closet Case or Papercut's Waver jacket to see me through to winter, when I'll take my woollen coat out again. It will be my first time sewing with waxed fabrics, but I’m looking forward to the challenge and figuring out how to get a slick result. Examining the finish on similar ready-to-wear garments is a good way of picking up tips, and sometimes where I look to for inspiration. You can see what type of thread has been used or the fastenings that have been added.

We’ve got some really lovely rose gold press studs

by Prym in the shop that I plan on using!

What Lauren's � loving �

JUNIPER CARDIGAN PATTERN, £12.36, JENNIFERLAUREN.ETSY.COM

“A bit of summer ma tchy-matchy cheesiness! My Gr ainline and Sophia’s match Lark Tee ing top.”

I love the idea of making Sophia a mini version as well. I used the Zeirstoff Henry jacket pattern to make her a little rain coat earlier in the year but unfortunately, I think she’ll grow out of it soon. It’s a perfect excuse to sew another though!

I’m really enjoying being able to make matching clothes before she gets into choosing what she wants to wear herself.

In the shop, the g&g team and I are busy getting ready for the Sewing Bee Live show, where we’ll be exhibiting in London’s ExCel at the end of September. We’ve got a larger space than we’ve had before and plan on taking lots of gorgeous fabrics and samples with us to help kickstart your autumn wardrobe. You can find us at stand F10. I’ll also be doing demonstrations in the Demo Theatre and appearing in the Super Theatre with Patrick and Esme too. I hope to see some of you there!

Lauren PAPERCUT WAVER JACKET, £14.90, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK

Lauren’s go-to tools for coat-making...

The no-sew press studs by Prym are easy to attach with the various pliers.

Just use the corresponding tool that comes with the press studs and squeeze the pliers tight for a secure fastening.

Prym's pinking shears are sharp and perfect for cutting through most fabrics!

KELLY ANORAK PATTERN BY CLOSET CASE PATTERNS, £14.90, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK

If sewing with a thicker wool, you could try using Prym's stretch needle. The eye of the needle is slightly higher so the loop created in the stitch is bigger, and therefore can form a stitch through more layers of fabric.

FIND FABRIC, PATTERNS, HABERDASHERY AND MORE AT GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK 37

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1927 Simplicity launches in US 1932 UK subsidiary opens 1945 Construction notes added 1962 Patterns available in five languages 1968 Style pattern launched

N

ostalgia is a wonderful thing – check out a design from the 40s and you remember that wartime photo of your Grandma wearing a smart suit as a young lady. Delving into our pattern archives gives us a glimpse into what those who came before us wore – not to mention it’s a treat for the eyes!

The five patterns I’ll talk through here are great pieces that not only proved popular during their original era, but are still much-loved today.

If you’re a lover of vintage fashion, it’s more authentic to stitch your own – as they did then.

You can still go full-on retro by styling with contemporary pieces – just ensure that they reference the right era to coordinate the look.

BONNIE SIMMONS, Design Director at Simplicity

“Simplicity became a dependable resource in making clothes for the entire family.”

1930s

8248, viewb “The key features of this lovely frock are a Peter Pan collar and pleated puffed sleeves.

View A has a seamed bodice with a yoke and pre-pleated trim detail, whilst B has a higher yoke and a softly gathered bodice. It also benefits from contrast binding on the collar and shaped hip pockets. Both versions ease into a soft midi skirt and also include belts.

For a daytime look, choose a linen, soft cotton or even a challis type. A small retro geometric print with contast binding in a single colour would create a truly vintage feel. Sew it up in a luxurious silk crepe de chine or floral double georgette for a special occasion.”

TIMELESS

Style

New

1940s

8462, views a&C “Here is a classic 40s outfit! The bolero has a shaped shawl collar, retro back-neck and sleeve dart details. It falls just above the waist, allowing you to better see the circle skirt.

The blouse boasts shaping darts and lovely front pleat details plus short kimono sleeves, and will work wonderfully in crepe de chine, double georgette or silky types – whilst the others work well in everything from linens to lightweight wools. For a dressy look, consider a taffeta skirt and velveteen jacket. Then, for more retro outfits, pair the skirt with a cashmere sweater and pearls, or throw on the jacket with jeans – they’re so versatile!”

“There’s no rule that says you can’t sew up a vintage dress in a colourful tropical print from your stash.”

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1970s Multi-size patterns introduced 2000s Launch of website and online shopping 2010 Free patterns exclusively in Sew TODAY Embracing digital formats

...today

19 70s

We continue to produce high-quality patterns to suit the newbie through to the experienced sewist. Our team aims to bring a mix of on-trend styles and great basics, also catering to niche sewing markets like cosplay, athleisure, lingerie and rockabilly, as well as branching out to more general crafts sewing.

Simplicity innovates the sewing space with new products like ‘Pattern Hackers’, which puts the creativity into the maker’s hands. We are also excited about our new partnership with Cricut, the leading brand in cutting machines, to offer Simplicity patterns in a new, digital format that can be cut using the Cricut Maker.

8013, view C “This dress creates glam drama with long gathered or bell sleeves and a crossed bodice, which creates a deep V-neckline and faux wrap, all brought together by a wide sash and full skirt. Views A and B are knee-length whilst C and D fall to the floor. Soft, flowing fabrics will work best. Work it up in a challis or small floral print for a boho daytime look, whilst elegant chiffon or charmeuse could transform it into a gorgeous bridal gown.”

“Simplicity inspired stitchers then to express themselves through unique, oneof-a-kind looks... and it still does!”

“Many women learned to sew with Simplicity patterns as young girls.”

1950s

New

8460, views a&C “Pair this sleeveless sheath dress with a colour-matched short jacket. The wide U-neck dress is shaped well with bust and body darts, whilst the fitted jacket offers three-quarter length sleeves and a stand collar. As for fabric, wool crepe or gabardine, anyone? Otherwise, think linens, piqué or sateen for day, and brocade or dupioni for special occasions. The lace jacket is easily finished with binding and can be layered over jeans or stitched in bridal colours to be worn with a coordinating sheath dress for an elegant and simple wedding outfit.”

1960s

8254, view A “Many body types will be flattered by this cool A-line dress from the swinging sixties, which has interesting details including darts, a front inset, and a slashed, raised neckline.

Choose from long sleeves or none at all. It can be sewn in a variety of fabrics, from casual linen, denim, piqué and sateen to more glamorous satin, brocade and silks for the evening. Try a colourful paisley print, or even metallic, sparkly brocade fabrics. Ponte knit also works well – just don’t forget sling-back shoes and that retro brooch from your stash!”

“The possibilities are endless when you have complete control over your clothes, which is as attractive now as it was in 1927 – when Simplicity launched.”

Join the celbrations and see the best of Simplicity, both old and new, at Simplicitynewlook.com 39

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sew DRESSMAKING

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Making a bodice 3 Sewing darts 3 Adding neck facings 3 Inserting sleeves

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew masterclass

Stitch and wear the

SOPHIA DRESS A little black dress will never fall out of vogue, and Fiona Hesford’s chic design is no exception. Featuring a fitted waistline, flared skirt and elbow-length sleeves, plus a stylish wide neckline and no fiddly fastenings to contend with, it’s both easy to sew and wear. For a similar look, seek out a medium weight jersey or stretch fabric, such as double knit or scuba.

Get started

• Medium weight double knit jersey or stretch fabric, 1.8m • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm

Sizes

Dress length

Bust

Waist

Sleeve length*

S (8-10):

95cm

85cm

80cm

50cm

M (12-14): 96.5cm 95cm

90cm

51.5cm

L (16-18): 98cm 105cm 100cm 53cm

* Finished measurement from back neck (elbow length)

Cutting guide

Note: cut the following from fabric, see the layout diagram overleaf for the best pattern placement Upper front: cut one on the fold Upper back: cut two Skirt front: cut one on the fold Skirt back: (using same pattern piece as front) cut two (1cm away from the fold line) Sleeve: cut two Front neck facing: cut one Back neck facing: cut one Note: cut both of the neck facing pieces from interfacing and iron it to the reverse of both fabric facing pieces 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

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sew a STYLISH SKATER DRESS Stitching the lower skirt and upper front

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for CUTTING & SEWING l Go to sewmag.co.uk/ templates to download and print the Sophia template. l The pattern includes six pieces: upper front, upper back, lower skirt (for the front and back), sleeve, front neck facing and back neck facing. l See the recommended layout below for the most economical use of your fabric (140cm wide, with no nap). l When topstitching the neck edge around to secure the facing, extend your stitch length to 2.6mm. l Cut the notches as indicated on the upper front and back, sleeves and facing. l Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.

1

Cut out all pattern pieces, following our recommended layout for the most economical use of fabric. Sew the back skirt pieces right sides together at the centre-back edge.

2

Pin the skirt front and the skirt back together along the sides, right sides together, then sew.

Neaten the raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch, then press. Press the seam open.

3

Sew the upper front darts, then press open. Join the upper back pieces at the centre-back seam. Finish the raw edges. Sew the upper back to the upper front at the shoulder seams.

Making the neck facings, bodice and sleeves

4

5

6

7

8

9

Join the neck facings together at the short sides, right sides together. Press the seam allowance open. Finish the outer raw edge of the piece all around.

Pin the top raw edge of the facing piece to the neck, right sides together and aligning the side seams. Tack all around by hand.

Sew around, then make small nicks into the seam along the curves. Press the facing to the wrong side, pin it to the body all around, then tack.

RECOMMENDED LAYOUT FOR 140CM WIDE FABRIC

UPPER FRONT

SELVEDGES

SKIRT FRONT

1.8m

FOLD

SKIRT BACK

Topstitch 4cm from the neck edge around to secure the facing. Sew the upper front to the back at the side seams, below the armholes, then press open.

Pin the sleeve, right sides together. Sew, then finish the raw edges at the side seams and lower edge. Repeat for other sleeve, sew easing stitches around each head.

Pin the sleeve head to the armhole, matching the notches and easing to fit.

Tack in place, then sew a 1cm seam.

Finish the raw edges, then press.

Attaching the skirt section

UPPER BACK

BACK FACING SLEEVE FRONT FACING

10

Pin the upper skirt edge to the lower raw edge of the body, right sides together and aligning the side seams.

11

Tack the two pieces in place to secure, sew a 1cm seam around, then finish the raw edge. Press.

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12

Finish the lower raw edge of the skirt. Make a single-fold 1cm hem at both the lower edge and sleeves.

sew DRESSMAKING

Sewing with jerseys Medium-weight double knit jerseys like scuba, ponte and Ponde de Roma are stable fabrics and a good choice for beginners. l Use ballpoint pins or even clips when placing pieces together to avoid damaging the fabric. l Make sure you change to a ballpoint, jersey or stretch needle on your machine. l Use an overlocker or if not, a zigzag stitch – checking that your machine doesn’t have an overlock stitch that emulates it. l Consider swapping to a knit or a walking foot.

This will help your fabric run through smoothly. l Practise stitching on a scrap of fabric first to check your tension and stop it from stretching out of shape.

sew

SHOPPER

GET THE LOOK! Find a selection of scuba and other suitable medium-weight jersey fabrics from £4.99 per metre at minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Bag, £24.99, TK Maxx, Bracelets, £9.50, Marks & Spencer, Brooch, model’s own.

************************

sewing

SoS

Our experts reveal how to create perfect vintage-style outfits

Q

I love the look of ‘40s and ‘50s fashion – can you recommend any patterns that are suitable for everyday wear?

Miranda Lewis

Kate says...

There are some great patterns out there that fit the style that you are after, not to mention a few independent companies that specialise in vintage-inspired patterns. One company that I think would be a great starting point is Decades of Style (decadesofstyle.com).

The website allows you to search for designs by era, from the 20s through to the 50s – and it has lots of interesting designs. There’s also an easy-sew Decades Everyday range on offer, for faster results.

If you are looking for vintage style patterns that have a modern twist, then Sew Over It has a great collection of retro-inspired designs and there are two in particular that I think you may like. The Betty Dress is a classic 50s shape, while the Vintage Shirt Dress nods to the 40s!

The nice thing about both patterns is that they are cut with today’s body proportions in mind.

1940s Girl Friday blouse, paper pattern $18, pdf pattern $14, decadesofstyle.com

“A few independent pattern companies specialise in vintage-inspired patterns”

Q

I have a ‘50s style boxy jacket pattern that I want to make up for autumn – what fabrics and colours would work best?

Caroline Johnson

Lisa says...

Ooh, this sounds like a lovely idea – I think I will be doing the same with Sew Over It’s new Coco jacket pattern. With regards to colours, it’s completely down to personal preference – whatever makes you happy! Personally I like bright jewelled tones for autumn and winter, as they pair really well with darker colours. I have Coco made up in a gorgeous bouclé fabric from India and although the shades are quite loud, I think it works perfectly for this time of year.

Fabric-wise, I’d recommend a lightweight wool with a smooth acetate lining.

Depending on the look you want to achieve, you could try anything from boiled wool for a thick, warm jacket to bouclé, for that luxurious Chanel-inspired feel.

Beware though – its loose weave means that the fabric is notorious for fraying.

The lining will ensure you can get the jacket on and off easily, plus adds that little extra bit of stability and warmth. Happy sewing!

Coco jacket PDF pattern,£7.50 44

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here to

help

KATE UNDERDOWN

LISA COMFORT

The co-founder of online community The Fold Line, a social sewing hub devoted to uniting stitchers far and wide, with advice and reviews.

Owner of London store Sew Over It, the pattern designer and sewing tutor has a taste for yesteryear fashions. sewoverit.co.uk

thefoldline.com

Q

I’d like to make up some vintage patterns that once belonged to my grandmother, but the sizes are very small – is it possible to enlarge them?

Jackie Bates

Abi says...

Absolutely, but this is such a big topic! It will take a bit of maths, lots of measuring and some re-tracing, but it’s certainly worth spending the time doing to recreate those gorgeous vintage patterns. There’s lots of helpful resources online to guide you through the process, but essentially you will need to figure out how much extra you need to add to the pattern. For example, if the pattern is a 26” waist and you need a 30” waist, you’ll need to split the 4” difference across the side seams of the waist piece. This may sound daunting but the Curvy Sewing Collective blog (curvysewingcollective.com) and Gertie Hirsch’s blog (blogforbettersewing. com) both have great tips and photo tutorials for enlarging vintage patterns.

Whatever you do, you’ll certainly need to make a toile or two so you can check your fit, reposition any darts, and taper any seams in or out. Certainly a labour of love, but totally worth doing!

ABI DYSON

Abi blogs about her vintageinspired makes at thecraftypinup.co.uk, and runs a lingerie and nightwear business too.

top 4

myretrocloset.com

Hand Creams

It’s important to look after tools and equipment like your sewing machine and scissors, to keep them in perfect working order.

However, it’s easy to overlook the most vital one of all – your hands!

With the many jobs that they do, our mitts also need some TLC on a regular basis, such as a good hand cream to keep them soft and supple, so keep one of these lovely treats within reach.

Designer style Cath Kidston absolute manicure set, £18, daisypark.co.uk

Natural beauty Burt’s Bees shea butter hand repair cream, £7.99 for 90g, burtsbees.co.uk

tip!

CHECK OUT CHARITY SHOPS, CAR BOOT SALES AND WEBSITES SUCH AS FOLKSY AND ETSY FOR AUTHENTIC VINTAGE PATTERNS AT BARGAIN PRICES!

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Travel size

Freesia and pear hand cream, £4.50 for 30ml, oliverbonas.com

uty Heavy d O’Keeffe’s Working Hands cream, £7.99 for 96g, amazon. co.uk

care

SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 46

Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

46

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Effortless STYLE

EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW

just for

sew

Prep your wardrobe with Stoff & Stil’s new pattern and fabric releases!

Stitch for day

EASY CASUAL LOOK

Sweater: pattern 23125 - C, £4.75, in heavy knitted melange (no 240459), £13.50 per metre Skirt: pattern 21034 - C, £3.75 in woven viscose animal print in navy (no 710351), £7.75 per metre

BURGUNDY DUO

Top: pattern 23124 – B, £3.75 Skirt: pattern 210331 – C, £3.75 Both are made in knit jacquard with lurex (no 203611), £12.25 per metre

LAYERING UP

Cardigan: pattern 72003, £3.75, in knitted melange (no 240470), £9.95 per metre Dress: pattern 73010, £3.75, in knit jacquard grey melange (no 203620), £14.50 per metre

Sew for night

ELEGANT OUTING

Top: pattern 23038 - C, £3.75, in lace flowers (no 660426), £13.50 per metre Skirt: pattern 21028 - B, £3.75, in dusty navy cupro (no 501251), £16.50 per metre

TOP TRUMPET SLEEVES Top: pattern 23144 - B, £3.75, in woven geometric viscose (no 710355), £7.75 per metre Trousers: pattern 20045, £3.75, in heavy jersey twill in navy (no 203579), £11.50 per metre

LACY NUMBER

Top: pattern 23139 – C, £3.75, in crochet lace (no 660428), £21.25 per metre Skirt: pattern 21037, £3.75, in black Ponte de Roma (no 270777), £9.95 per metre

Stoff & Stil’s AW17 collection is available from 24th August at stoffstil.co.uk 47

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FREE*

Sew-licious Little Things book FOR EVERY READER

Plus 30% off all these books from MAKEetc. with the coupon below or when you use the code SEW30* at the checkout

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sew DRESSMAKING

Stitch the Look

VISCOSE JERSEY

WHY NOT TRY

One of the many myths about knits fabrics is that they are clingy and body-hugging – but they really don’t have to be.

Viscose jersey, for example, is a light to medium weight version that has plenty of movement.

The fabric is mainly made up of viscose, with between 5% and 8% of elastane in the mix.

As a result, it isn’t dissimilar to silk in how it moves and is a perfect choice for garments.

1

2

Asymmetric hem skirt, £26, next.co.uk

3

“Our viscose jerseys are a soft stretch fabric with a lovely drape – suitable for dresses, skirts, tops, blouses, leggings, jumpsuits and more!”

4

Josephine Hagger, Stoff & Stil

5 1 Blue, £8.89 per metre 2 Light grey, £8.89 per metre 3 Nature with black circles, £11.50 per metre 4 Light petrol, £8.89 per metre 5 Grey melange with dots, £11.50 per metre All of the featured viscose jerseys are available at stoffstil.co.uk 49

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 50

SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 51

Confessions

of a sewing addict

Corinne’s array of crafting tools is spiralling out of control!

Now, she’s trying to establish some order.

“My house was so full that I’d resorted to piling stuff up in corners. However, enough was enough...”

It had got to the stage where it was more costeffective to run up the road and buy something new than spend an hour looking for the one I knew I had. Enough was enough; I needed to this shop, it was a women’s outfitters from back when I was a kid, and I can remember my get some semblance of order and put similar Mum popping in there every couple of weeks. things in the same place. So far, I’ve managed to Occasionally she’d buy a little something – collect all my leather and leather working tools nothing too extravagant – and put it in the in one big box, but that’s about it. Only about 57 back of her wardrobe until she had a reason more crafts to go! to wear it. More often than not, she’d forget it until she realised there were half a dozen CUTTING EDGE carriers bags gathered there!

For me, scissors are possibly the most useful I’ve discovered that I do much the same tool around. You need one pair specifically thing. Not with clothes however; I tend to buy for cutting fabric, but I have six – including these as a necessity rather than a treat. No, a really good pair of Fiskars ServoCuts that I do it with tools – lots and lots of them, for all really take the strain away, especially when manner of crafts. cutting through several layers. I also have I got a bit of a bee in my bonnet recently. ten pairs of scissors for snipping and My house was so full that I’d resorted to piling embroidery and please, don’t ask how many stuff up in corners because I didn’t have the I’ve got for cutting paper as I haven’t managed time to sort it and put it away properly. to get them all in one place yet! However, I do

I found some old cotton pillowcases in a vintage Shearn Thomas carrier bag the other day. For those who haven’t heard of

I LOVE FISKARS’ SEWING SCISSORS, SUCH AS THEIR AMPLIFY SHEARS

When does having thre e of every tool become a hi ndrance? have to ask why I’ve found a bag containing several pairs of unused, discontinued Janome scissors tucked under the bed.

I’ve also got at least six quilters’ rulers, but only one rotary cutter for some reason.

As for cutting mats, I’ve definitely got more than 15 in sizes up to A1, but half of them are so well used that you can barely see the lines any more. I really should throw them out, but they might come in handy and don’t really take up a lot of space if you hide them under the sofa.

What’s worse are the tools that I’ve lent out to people, only to forget who’s got them. I did get my enormous embroidery hoop back after two years of searching and I know where my set of 3” alphabet dies are but my friend is ‘still using them’.

Meanwhile, my good pinking shears are floating around someone else’s home – hopefully they’ll come back one day...

I ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT I HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR ANY CUTTING JOB TO HAND

THERE’S NO SUCH THING AS TOO MANY EMBROIDERY SCISSORS... RIGHT?

VISIT FISKARS.CO.UK TO SEE THE FULL RANGE

I’M SORELY TEMPTED TO BUY THESE CUTE POLKA DOT SCISSORS, £4.29. VISIT KORBOND.COM FOR STOCKISTS

SEE CORINNE IN ACTION AT YOUTUBE.COM/THECRAFTSCHANNEL 52

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7 WAYS WITH

Art Gallery Fabrics Joyful Fusion

Let’s face it, vibrant shades and prints have their place all year round. If you’re big on brights, the aptly named Joyful Fusion collection by Art Gallery Fabrics is sure to bring colour to your life. This issue, Corinne Bradd gets to work with the collection to make a pretty tablecloth, weighted bunny toy, drawstring bag, plus a journal and choice of three bookmarks. Plus, you'll find a bonus cushion project online - straight from the Art Gallery Fabrics studio!

Get started

• Cotton, patterned, plains in aqua, peach, yellow, white • Toy stuffing • Quilt wadding • Felt • Notebook • Buttons • Round elastic • 5mm round cotton cord

BONUS PROJECT! Get instructions for this stripy cushion at sewmag.co.uk!

For your nearest Art Gallery Fabrics stockist, visit hantex.co.uk/agf 53

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Easy adjustments Make this on a larger scale to fit your kitchen table!

Sew a pretty tablecloth

Whip up a stripy bag

Size: 81cm square

1

Cut ten 10cm squares from seven different fabric prints and arrange in an 8x8 grid.

Put the extra aside for later. Sew the squares together in pairs, the pairs into blocks, and then the blocks into pairs. Sew these together to make the patchwork top, then press all the seams to one side.

Snip two 7.5cm squares from each of the seven fabrics by trimming the leftover ones trimmed earlier for the quilt top. Cut the same number of squares from white cotton and pair up, right sides together. Sew around two sides, 5mm from the edge, stopping 5mm from the corner and securing the stitching. Cut the thread and sew around the remaining sides in the same way, fastening off 5mm from the corner.

Carefully cut diagonally across the squares, keeping the stitching intact, to make two triangles. Clip the corners, turn each triangle right side out, then press. Tack the triangles around the edges of the patchwork, right sides

2

Size: 17cm x 23cm together and matching the raw edges, being careful to keep to the pattern arrangement. To complete the border, cut and stitch triangles the same size from the necessary fabrics to make up the shortfall.

Lay a 75cm square of white cotton over the right side of the patchwork, covering the triangular border. Stitch all around the edges, leaving an 8cm gap in one edge. Turn out through the gap and press so the triangles edge the cloth neatly. Fold in the raw edges and topstitch around the patchwork, 3mm in from the edge seam.

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1

Cut 14 strips of fabric 5cm x 25cm and sew right sides together to make a striped panel. Press and layer onto 26cm x 57cm of quilt wadding and plain white cotton. Topstitch along the lines of the stripes to quilt the layers together. Trim the edges and zigzag to prevent fraying.

Snip two 3cm x 26cm strips of plain yellow cotton, fold in 1cm on all of the short ends and glue. Fold under 5mm on the long edges and press. Lay the quilted panel face up, pin and topstitch the strips horizontally, 2.5cm from the top edge and 1.5cm out from the centre to make channels.

Cut a 3.5cm x 57cm strip of yellow cotton and stitch it to the right side of the top edge of the panel to make a binding.

Fold the panel in half right sides together and stitch down the side seam of both the panel and binding. Fold 5mm of the binding strip under before folding over the top edge and slip stitching to the inside of the bag.

Cut a 16cm square of both yellow cotton and wadding, layer together and round off the corners by tracing around

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a coin. Zigzag stitch the layers together around the edges, before sewing to the lower edge of the bag to make a square base. Cut a 17cm square of white cotton, round off the corners and turn under 5mm on all edges. Pin and slip stitch over the raw seams of the base before turning the bag right sides out.

Thread cord through the channels using a safety pin as a guide. Use enough cord to make handles when the top of the bag is gathered. Knot tightly, trim the knot and slide inside the channel to hide it.

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sew gifts

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stick to it!

Thank you to Sew reader Samantha Currie for helping us name our mascot! at Help us with suggestions for next month’s ewhq facebook.com/s

Use a 50% PVA glue/water mix to adhere fabric to your notebook, securing the folded edges with washi tape on the inside.

Make a journal buddy and three bookmarks

Stitch Binky bunny Size: 20cm (sitting, excl. ears)

Size: Journal: custom-sized (ours is 17.5cm x 23cm) Wide bookmark: 5cm x 22cm Thin bookmarks: 2cm x 22cm

1

Take a soft back journal and cover with patterned cotton fabric (see our Stick To It panel, above).

Measure the height of the cover, then cut a 4cm wide strip of fabric 1.6 times as long as this height. Fold the strip in half engthways and sew down the long side, 5mm from the edge, leaving a 4cm gap in the centre of the seam.

Flatten the tube so the seam lies in the middle of the strip and stitch across the short ends. Turn the tube out through the gap in the middle of the seam, press flat, then slip stitch the gap closed.

Fold under by 1cm on each short end and slip stitch to make small loops. Thread round elastic through the loops and place the fabric strip around your journal. Tie the elastic into a ring that pulls the fabric snug against the book. Trim the ends of the elastic and slide through the loops so the knot is hidden by the fabric.

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Use the template to cut out each piece (except the face) from cotton fabric, adding a 5mm seam allowance to each piece. Cut a face from coloured felt, without adding a seam allowance. Use two strands of embroidery thread to sew the face to the head of one body piece with a small running stitch. Add two layered buttons for each eye and another for the nose, then embroider the mouth.

Pin each pair of ears and limbs right sides together then stitch, leaving the short straight sides unsewn. Clip the curves and turn right sides out.

Sew running stitch around the ears in a contrast embroidery thread to keep the edges flat, before lightly filling with toy stuffing. Add weight to the bottom of each limb by filling with plastic beads or dry rice, then stuff the rest of each tube.

Tack the open ends of both the ears and legs closed.

Lay the front body piece face up and tack the ears to the top edge, matching the raw edges. Tack the legs to the bottom

4

Decorate with a button on each end of the fabric strip.

Alternatively, sew stacked buttons around the centre of the elastic loop. Create a matching pen holder by replacing the fabric strip with a wider piece, stitching

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edge of the body in the same way. Lay the back body piece face down on top and pin at the top and bottom – the ears and legs will prevent you pinning the sides.

Begin stitching the bodies together, starting 2cm up from the bottom on one side. Sew along the bottom edge, securing the legs as you do so.

As you turn the next corner, sew up 2cm, push the legs and ears to the other side and continue sewing up the body and onto the head. Stitch across the top of the head to secure the ears, push the ears back inside the head and sew down the other side of the head and neck, stopping 2cm down from the neck.

Clip the curves and pull the ears and legs out through the gap, turning the bunny right sides out as you do so.

Firmly fill the head and neck with stuffing. Add weight to the bottom of the body before continuing to stuff. Fold in the raw edges and slip stitch closed.

Turn in the raw edges of each arm and pin to the shoulders of the bunny. Oversew in place.

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SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 14/08/2017 15:29 Page 56

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WE CAN HELP YOUR BUSINESS GROW Advertising doesn’t need to cost a fortune, a small budget used wisely can help your business grow.

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sew gifts

TURN LITTLE SCRAPS INTO

flower brooches

Slice fabric scraps into 4.5cm squares. Fold one in half diagonally, wrong sides together, then in half again to make a triangle. Gather the four raw edges along the bottom with running stitch, pull tight to form a petal and secure. Repeat for the other squares.

Begin sewing the gathered edges to a 5cm felt circle in a ring. Add a second layer of petals inside the first, covering the bases. Sew a third circle in the centre, then hide the stitching with two layered buttons. Stitch another 5cm felt circle to the reverse.

Get started • Fabric scraps • Felt scraps • Buttons • Brooch back • PVA glue

Rescale your brooch to suit your needs by changing the size of the squares – then attach to bags, garments & more

Size Small: 7cm diameter Medium: 10cm diameter

Use thick PVA to affix a brooch back to the reverse, then glue a rectangle of felt on top to secure.

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TURN SMALL PIECES OF FABRIC INTO A

charm quilt

Get started

• Cotton 10” charm pack, two packs of 12 designs • White cotton, 2.5m • Lightweight wadding, 1.5m

If you’ve ever wondered what to do with a fabric charm pack, take a leaf out of Corinne Bradd’s stitchy book and make a lovely quilt. Her half square triangle (HST) diamond block is easy to sew, but looks so impressive when pieced together. Make HSTs less of a chore to create by setting up a mini production line in front of the TV – you’ll be done in no time!

Size

89cm x 132cm

Stitch a bright blanket

1

Set aside a 1m x 1.4m rectangle of white cotton for the quilt backing and set aside.

Trim all 24 of the 10” squares into four 12.5cm squares. Snip 96 12.5cm squares from white cotton and use chalk to draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each one.

Pair up each patterned square with a white one and pin right sides together.

Stitch 5mm away on each side of the marking. Cut along the line, open out and press to make HSTs. Separate the HSTs into eight stacks of twelve, with one of each pattern in every stack.

Take the first stack and lay out four HSTs in a block to form a large white square in the centre. Add the remaining eight HSTs to the edges to create a plus sign-shaped block with a diagonal square ring in the centre. This will be your centre block.

Arrange the remaining HSTs around this centre piece, as shown in the photo. Stitch them together in pairs, then combine these into blocks, followed by pairs of blocks, and finally larger blocks of 16 HSTs, matching up the centre seams accurately each time. Sew the large blocks together to make the top. Press.

Pin the quilt top to 1.5m of wadding at regular intervals, then trim the wadding to size. Pin the pinned quilt top centrally on the backing fabric, leaving a wide border. Topstitch around the square rings.

Trim the excess backing to 3cm from the edges of the quilt top. Fold in 1cm, then another 1.5cm over the raw edges of the patchwork to make a neat border with mitred corners. Pin and topstitch around the quilt, close to the inner folded edge.

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BUTTERICK EB6100 This computerised model includes an automatic needle threader, seven machine feet and 100 stitches including an heirloom one, which gives the look of hand sewing. £599.99, createandcraft.com 58

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For a range of cotton charm packs, visit createand craft.com

WORK

cut out

Discover how two artists are reviving a long-forgotten tradition – by snipping strangers’ clothing!

Words by Melissa Hyland

As a skilled trade that took a lot of time, it was perhaps a service needed in rural places where the women of each family had their hands full already.”

Joanna and Lenka met each other while studying Documentary Film at the National Film and Television School in Buckinghamshire, England, where they discovered a number of shared interests. “We were both taught how to sew by our grandmothers, and love handmade and repaired objects, travelling professions, and the fascinating stories behind cultural rituals that have been lost to time,” Joanna continues. “In addition, Lenka and I currently live in different countries, and our work means that we are often quite transient ourselves, wandering from place to place to complete projects and commissions.

We wanted to find a way to work and connect, despite actually seeing very little of each other in person – so, we began working on a collaborative patchwork by post, which is what inspired the itinerant quilt project.”

The pair have already held two events in America, where they received a wide variety “I’m from rural north Wales, and I’d heard about of responses to the itinerant quilters as a child,” Joanna begins. question of cutting “Very little is documented about them and a patch from the Any patches most of what is known is anecdotal or wearer’s outfit. cut are hastily passed down orally. The objects these “A small handful repaired! craftspeople made were utilitarian, of people gave and at the time little value was seen a resounding in recording this aspect of history.

“NO”, while others, who had heard about the project before, actually brought garments that had a specific special meaning to them – which they wanted to share,” Joanna reveals. “Some spectators see the repair we make as an improvement that turns their mass-produced garment into a unique piece, and a lot are curious and just want to take part.”

What would you say if a complete stranger came up to you in the street and asked to cut a patch from your clothes? Artists Joanna Wright and Lenka Clayton intend to find out in their project Two Itinerant Quilters, where they will cut patches from members of the public’s clothes (with permission of course!), adding each one to a quilt that will tour the country.

The project was inspired by the long-lost profession of 18th century travelling quilters, who would stay with families in order to create patchwork quilts from old clothing, rags and sacks found at each home. Joanna and Lenka will set up a temporary tailor’s shop at each location, and invite passers-by to allow them to cut a diamond-shaped piece from their clothing.

The garment will immediately be repaired by hand and patched with a contrasting piece of fabric, while the collected diamonds will be sewn together to create a quilt that grows bigger as the project journeys around the world.

Historic TRADITION

Joanna Wright and Lenka Clayton at work

Story TELLERS

In addition, the two artists ask the donator to share an anecdote connected to their garment. “These are really eclectic and often hilarious, inspiring or moving,” Joanna tells us. “One lady brought a shirt that had belonged to her late sister.

She wanted to share her memory, and the alteration was a way of connecting with her.

Another favourite comes from an older ladies’ powerlifting team in Missouri, while one of the funniest is about a shrew and a teabag...”

“The aim of our project is to connect people via these stories and capture the diversity of the tellers in a quilt made from their garments, but also to create the possibility of people sporting clothes with a visible, distinctive patch – perhaps bumping into each other on the street,” Joanna explains. “We’re slowly piecing the quilt together – so far we are planning to cut 1,000 pieces from as many diverse contributions as possible. No one leaves the house that morning imagining that the clothing they’re wearing will become a quilt.

We love the unexpected encounter, and the idea of offering people a new end to their day.”

To see the progress of the project, and read the stories of those who’ve taken part, pay a visit to twoitinerantquilters.com 59

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A WARM WELCOME

House of Alistair Liberty English Field 100% cotton (137cm wide), £22.99 per metre, createandcraft.com

Purple cotton mix diverse print, £7.75 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

As the weather cools and evenings get darker, it’s even more important to create a homely habitat where we can hibernate (and sew!). Well, who doesn’t love wrapping up under a blanket with their favourite brew and latest WIP? Autumnal doesn’t have to mean dark, either. Here, rich purples, pops of accent colours and snug furnishings combine to create a luxe atmosphere, ensuring that you always come home to a warm welcome.

SARAH PAYNE, CREATE & CRAFT

JOSEPHINE HAGGER, STOFF & STIL

“This fabric lends itself to all manner of home decor; the soft drape makes it a dream for projects like quilts and throws. Big, bold designs are all the rage this year, so this fits the bill perfectly!”

Liberty Kindle pink cord, £17.55 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

Blooming Soul Laurel, Indie Boheme collection by Pat Bravo for Art Gallery Fabrics, £16.20 per metre, sewinspiredplymouth.co.uk

“Our woven cotton fabric is a lovely fun print that has endless sewing possibilities! Use it to make bed linen, tea cosies, place mats, bread baskets, storage, pillows and more.”

JULIE DEUCHARS, SEW INSPIRED

CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL

“This fabric is from the Indie Boheme range by Art Gallery Fabrics.

It’s perfect for everything from cushions through to dresses and is feminine, without being too girly girly!”

“A fine cotton Liberty needlecord, this design is 150cm wide and has an extremely pretty floral print. It’s totally covered in two basic colours - purple and cerise.”

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sew home

Use a number of purple shades in the colour spectrum

Pair alongside checks, tartans and geometric patterns

homesense.com

Keep even cosier with rugs and throws!

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**ALL SEWN UP classified OCT 17_ALL SEWN UP 11/08/2017 15:24 Page 62

directory FABRICS & SEWING MACHINES

PATTERNS

www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra

tel: 01425 461444

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1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102

1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices!

Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more!

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk Linton Tweeds design and weave fabric for the world's most exclusive fashion houses buy yours online today

www.lintondirect.co.uk DIGITAL EDITIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON THE APPLE AND KINDLE NEWSTAND

Dragonfly Fabrics Modern Dressmaking Fabrics Mayfield, Near Tunbridge Wells.

01892 731087

Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

Join in the biggest national sewing event ever held in the UK Supporting local “Bricks & Mortar” buisnesses Here at Sew magazine we realise how tough the high street retail environment can be.

Our mission is to publicise just how important local sewing shops, haberdashers and fabric outlets are not only in terms of the range of products that you can touch and feel before buying but also the massive amount of help and expert advice available through these outlets to enhance your hobby.

Here’s how to get involved

*PLEASE NOTE, DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS WILL NOT INCLUDE SUBSCRIPTIONS GIFTS NOR COVER MOUNTED GIFTS.

Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk

21st October 2017

Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions.

And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

Within our magazine not only will we be running tons of pre event publicity, interviews and marketing but also there will be Sew Saturday directory pages where your business can be featured under your county heading and also at no additional cost on our fully intereactive webite map seen by over 50,000 unique visitors a month!

Here’s the deal Each shop will also receive a full colour classified advert in the Sew Saturday directory in the August-November issues of Sew Magazine, for a small fee of £40 + VAT per issue, then reduced to £30 + VAT for the December-February issues when the Sew Saturday campaign continues onto Shop Local.

And don’t forget you get the fully interactive store finder map entry absolutely free!

Want to sign up?

Call Anna on 01206 505932 or e-mail anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk or call Hannah on 01206 505495 or e-mail hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk

www.sewmag.co.uk

sew PEOPLE

Cooler weather is the perfect excuse for toasted crumpets and butter...

Tilda Harvest, for stockists contact groves@stockistenquiries.com

I love the new Harvest collection by Tilda!

At home with...

STUART HILLARD Autumn is drawing closer! I love the whole cosiness of the season, and the hygge that comes with it.

From my earliest memories as a child, October has always been my favourite month in the year. Not December with the present giving and rituals of Christmas, or February when I got to blow out candles (although as you may know, I do still adore cake!) – not even July when the long summer holidays beckoned... but crisp, bright, leafy October, with all of its amber foliage, log fires and pumpkins.

I love the whole cosiness of autumn, the indulgence of nestling down with a quilt and a mug of tea at four in the afternoon, with the curtains drawn and a fire already lit. It’s the perfect excuse for eating toasted crumpets dripping with butter, with carte blanche to craft at any time of the day simply because ‘winter is coming’... It’s not particularly cold or dark, so the trappings of winter can be enjoyed without the inconvenience of bad weather, which often goes with it. I’ve always enjoyed what is now known as ‘hygge’, that Scandinavian sense of cosy snugness that comes only from those home comforts like a wellstocked larder, a handknitted sweater, or the smell of wood-smoke. I love the preparation for what is to come, and autumn is a very good month for getting your home winter-ready.

RAISE THE CURTAIN One of the best things I ever learned to do was interline curtains, and I’ve just

finished making a new set of winter drapes for my sitting room. Curtains serve several different functions; blocking light and providing privacy are the obvious ones, but they also help insulate your room and trap heat, which is particularly important if your windows are old, sashed or single-glazed. Interlining is an added piece of fabric, sandwiched between the outer decorative fabric and the lining. This extra layer, often referred to as a ‘bump’ or ‘domette’, does a very similar job to the batting inside a quilt. It insulates the window more effectively than simply lined curtains do, trapping more heat and thus reducing your household bills –meaning more pennies to spend on fabric. Lining your drapes will also help to contain draughts that may come from ancient windows, and this is particularly welcome if you live in an older property.

Interlining makes curtains look more expensive too, as it adds weight to them. They simply hang and handle better, but also make cheaper, thinner fabrics work for curtains and blinds. I love to use quilt-weight cotton for curtains as it comes in such beautiful designs and is generally cheaper than furnishing weight cloths. I’m loving the new Harvest range of fabrics from Tilda. It combines shades of plum, bubblegum pink, juniper green and pumpkin orange. It’s perfect for home decor, interlined curtains and quilts, of course! Adding an interlining brings the fabric up to the right weight and quality, ensuring a much smarter finish. The extra layer also helps to block out more light and prevents seams showing through when the sun is shining. All in all, it’s a step that will take your window treatments to the next level.

In my books, adding interlining to curtains always pays off DO IT YOURSELF Adding interlining is easy and quick to do, simply cut the bump or domette to the same size as your outer curtain panel, but shorter by the hem width. This is so that when you turn the lower double hem of your curtain, the first is curtain fabric only – then the second includes the interlining. You need to interlock your bump to the outer curtain fabric. This is done with large, loose stitches, worked by hand from the bottom of the curtain to the top. You should only pick up a thread or two as you sew, to make the stitching invisible. Work these rows of interlocking stitches every quarter width of fabric and your interlining will be well secured. Once completed, add the curtaining lining and heading in the usual way. You can also use this method to interline Roman blinds again and again; the benefits are really worth the extra step. October is also a great time to make a quilt for the colder months and if you’re looking for inspiration, take a look at my new book, Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts has only been out for a couple of weeks but it's already a bestseller – thank you to everyone who has got a copy!

Nothing brings a greater sense of hygge to my home than a quilt - and tea. There must always be tea!

Till next month!

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 63

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The night sky often conjures up an unusual sense of perspective and here, Ruth Oliver’s starry accessory is sure to bring one to your dining table.

Using simple stitch techniques, this galactic beauty can easily be made in a day, ready for night! Images of genuine constellations are easy to find online, to provide you with inspiration for your design – plus you can add fringing for a truly stunning effect.

MAKE YOUR HOME THE CENTRE OF THE UNIVERSE WITH A

constellation runner

Get started

• Dark blue cotton fabric, 1m • White embroidery thread • Ombré fringing • Chalk • Embroidery hoop (optional)

Size

Custom-sized

Cutting guide

Runner: cut two 42cm x (desired length + 2cm) rectangles 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Sew a starry table runner

1

Cut out both pieces as indicated in the cutting guide.

Fold in half lengthways and draw a curve to round off the ends, as shown in the photo. Mark the design of your constellation on one fabric panel, adding dots for individual stars.

Using three strands of embroidery thread, work the designs with a neat running stitch. For the individual stars, sew a mixture of small and larger star-shaped stitches. Pin the two rectangular pieces right sides together.

Sandwich the fringing between the ends of the fabric. Sew around, leaving an 8cm gap. Clip the curves and turn out the runner. Press out the seams and sew the gap closed.

2

Stellar stitches For the best results, place your fabric in an embroidery hoop to keep it taut when working the constellation stitches.

3

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the

sew home

FABRIC EDIT Who doesn’t love looking up at a starry sky on a clear, still evening? If this is you, the Stargazers collection

by Robert Kaufman will really capture your imagination! Swirls of rich blue and purple make for beautiful throw cushions, while the planetary designs could well be made up into a bedding set for a budding young astronaut...

Cosmos wallpaper, £12.99 per roll, arthouse.com

Stargazers, Swirl Metallic Violet

Madpax bubble warp speed backpack, £55, cuckooland.com

Olli Ella solar system poster, £25, cuckooland.com

Stardust throw pillow, from £20, louisemead.co.uk

Stargazers, Planets Black

Stargazers, Galaxy Nightfall

Space mug, £2.50, sainsburys.co.uk

Star globe, £31.41, shop.designist.ie

Space puzzle, £12, marksandspencer.com Stargazers, Planets Royal

Stargazers, Swirl Gold Stars Personalised star map print, £24.99, gettingpersonal.co.uk

Call Anbo Textiles on 01494 450155 to request your nearest Robert Kaufman stockist details.

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3

ways

to get into the spooky spirit

Get started • Cotton, orange, cream, green • Felt, orange, green, black, white, yellow • Double-fold bias tape, 1.5m • Brooch pins (two) • Fabric glue (optional) • Card (optional)

Cutting guide Bag body: cut two 25cm x 35cm rectangles each from orange and cream cotton Bag handle: cut two 10cm x 30cm strips from green cotton Bunting flag: cut six 18cm wide and 21cm long triangles each from orange and green cotton 1cm scream allowance used throughout.

Halloween may be about inspiring dread but in reality, it should be fun.

Whilst the weather is slowly creeping towards winter, it's a great opportunity to have fun indoors. If you have little ones in your home, making new Halloween traditions with them is a really unique way to create special memories – and they'll definitely stand out because this holiday is unlike any other Stitching these three projects by Sophia Palmer will each take less than a (witching) hour to whip up, so you’ll be bobbing for apples in no time. What’s more, they’re simple enough to be a fun activity for keeping little monsters occupied when school is out. Let them draw and cut out their own pumpkins, witches’ hats and ghosts, which they can stick with fabric glue before you finish the projects off on your machine. There’s no trick here, just treats!

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Strengthen thin cotton with fusible interfacing before adding details

Stitch a swag bag Size: 23cm x 33cm (excl. handles) Cut all pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Draw a 17cm wide pumpkin outline on card, then use it as a template to create the motif from felt, using orange for the face and green for the stalk. Snip a face design from black felt, plus a banner from white. Glue or pin everything in place on one of the orange bag pieces, then topstitch using black thread.

Machine embroider shaping details onto the pumpkin and a sentiment on the banner.

Pin the bag front onto one of the cream cotton pieces, right sides together, then sew along the top edge. Repeat with the other cotton pieces, then press. Turn right sides out, then layer them all together so the two orange pieces are in the middle and stitch, leaving a 10cm gap at the bottom of the lining pieces for turning.

Turn right sides out and press. Hand stitch the gap closed, then push the lining inside. Fold each handle piece in half, right sides together, then sew along the long edge. Turn right sides out, press, then sew to the top of the bag on the right side, tucking the raw edges under for a neat finish.

Hang bonechilling bunting

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1

2

2

3

Size: 16cm x 19cm (flag) Draw two black witch hats, two white ghosts and two orange pumpkin shapes onto felt. Cut out, then glue into position on three green and three orange bunting flags.

Stitch in place and use one strand of black embroidery thread to add details.

Pin the decorated flags onto the plain ones, right sides together, and sew, leaving the tops open. Turn out and press. Pin them in alternating colours between the folds of bias tape, hiding the raw top edges inside. Sew along the tape and press.

Make a frightful felt brooch Size: 8cm diameter Cut two 8cm felt circles and glue a brooch back onto one of them. Create a motif from more felt as for the bunting and stitch to the other shape. Machine embroider a sentiment and secure the design in place.

Stitch the two circles together, then use pinking shears to shape the edge.

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Susie Johns’ USE TWISTED CHAIN STITCH FOR

SPOOKY BANNER Get started • Cotton fabric, green, 55cm x 105cm, orange, 46cm x 56cm • Fusible webbing, 50cm square • 25mm-wide bias binding, green, 2.5m • White embroidery thread • Crewel needle • Clear glass beads • Carbon paper or chalk pencil • Large embroidery hoop (optional)

Size 51cm x 100cm

Stitch a banner

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Turn under and press a 1cm double hem on each of the short edges of a 55cm x 105cm piece of green fabric, then stitch. Cut 2.5m of bias binding in half. Use one piece to bind one of the long edges centrally, leaving the excess tape extending beyond the corners on each side to form ties. This will be the top of the banner.

Draw a wavy line on the opposite edge and cut along it, then bind in the same

2

Chain stitch is a basic embroidery technique that every avid needleworker knows, but it also has some interesting variations – one of which is twisted chain. This style produces a decorative line that’s ideal for outlining shapes with a rope-like effect.

Here, it’s used to create a spider web motif on a Halloween party banner that also features appliqué lettering.

1

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

3

Work a web Transfer the spider web motif onto the banner using carbon paper. Prepare a crewel needle with three strands of embroidery thread, then work each line of the design with twisted chain stitch (see row, below). When you’ve completed it, stitch a few clear glass beads in place.

Twisted chain stitch

Bring the needle out at A and insert to the side of the line at B. Take a slanted stitch across the line and out at C. Pass the thread over then under the needle.

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way, using the other piece.

Trace the letters to spell out ‘Happy Halloween’ onto the paper backing of fusible webbing; note that each letter will be reversed at this stage.

Place the webbing, paper side up, onto orange cotton fabric. Press with a hot iron, following the product instructions. Cut out each letter, then peel off the backing paper and arrange them on the green fabric, using the photo as a guide.

Fuse the letters in place with a hot iron, then zigzag stitch around the edge of each.

2

Work this stitch on a plain, closely woven fabric – you can use an embroidery hoop or not, depending on which suits you best. Draw a guideline for stitching and work from the bottom upwards.

Gently pull the thread through to form a twisted chain that is your desired size. Insert the needle at point D and bring it out again at E.

3

Pass the thread over and then under the needle and pull it out to form a second stitch.

Continue in the same way along the line to make a decorative effect.

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4

Secure the last loop with a small tying stitch, as shown. A single loop held down with a tying stitch is called detached chain stitch.

sew home

If you prefer, you can draw your own design freehand with a chalk pencil before embroidering it!

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the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month COLOR ODYSSEY: 50 IRON-ON FABRIC TRANSFERS TO COLOR AND CRAFT

by Chris Garver If you've been enjoying the colouring book craze, you're sure to be swept up by this stitchy version. Rather than completing the pages of a book only to close it afterwards, these designs can be fused onto your fabric before bringing them to life – be that with fabric markers, appliqué or embroidery, it's up to you! We're impressed.

Sixth&Spring, £14.99, thegmcgroup.com

THE DRESSMAKER'S COMPANION

by Elizabeth M. Haywood This isn't the type of book you read cover to cover – but you'll always be keeping it within arms reach at all times when undertaking a tough project, trying a new technique, or just in need of a little troubleshooting advice. It's packed with clever ideas, step-by-step instructions, fitting tips, and more than 3,000 illustrations to help you along the way.

Cooatalaa Press, £39.99, amazon.co.uk

SAVILE ROW by James Sherwood Whether you're looking to expand your stitching repertoire or simply want inspiration for more tailored items in your wardrobe, Savile Row remains the epicentre of suit-making. This title provides insights into the workings of 26 master tailors, which you can enjoy both for entertainment purposes and to heighten your own skills.

Thames & Hudson. £29.95, thamesandhudson.com

THE T-SHIRT QUILT BOOK

by Lindsay Conner and Carla Hegeman Crim Have you been there, done that and got the T-shirt? Is said tee collecting dust in a drawer? Turn it into a beautiful keepsake quilt paying homage to family holidays, sports teams or quirky motifs with the help of this handbook.

It shares great wisdom for sewing and finishing knit fabrics, and provides easy through to advanced layouts, with tips for creating your own.

C&T Publishing, £20.99, ctpub.com

TWENTY TO STITCH: Christmas Cross Stitch

by Michael Powell The latest in a hugely popular series, this book is unlike any cross -stitching guide we have seen before. With 20 unusual and charming designs, it will bring your festive decor right up to date. You're sure to enjoy the process as much as the results, thanks to the detailed yet easy-to-follow stitch guides and straightforward instructions.

Search Press, £4.99, searchpress.com

RSN: RAISED EMBROIDERY: Techniques, Projects and Pure Inspiration by Kelley Aldridge This guide is a great example as to why the Royal School of Needlework commands such respect. The combination of traditional techniques and contemporary designs guides beginners through the basics of 3D stitching – but even experienced embroiderers are guaranteed to learn something new and exciting, with three beautiful projects to show off your new skills!

Search Press. £17.99, searchpress.com

SEW A MODERN HALLOWEEN by Riel Nason Do tacky Halloween decorations fill you with dread for all the wrong reasons? Reclaim the celebration and stitch 15 spooky chic projects, choosing from quilts and pillows, curtain panels and table settings, plus gift and wine bags – or mix and match five blocks to create your own unique design. The book itself is humorous, with thoughtful instructions and tips.

C&T Publishing,£14.99, ctpub.com

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sew BOOKS

Kickstart your Christmas countdown with

1

HOUR

felt projects

There’s nothing quite like the satisfying feeling of being organised and prepared, and when Christmas is involved, it can be the difference between a stressful season and a carefree Crimbo. If you’re thinking of making a start but don’t want to get carried away just yet, these three projects by Amanda Walker will give you satisfying results. There’s also the chance to delve into your stash for some toy stuffing, and give needle-felting a go!

Get started • Felt, red, green, selfadhesive white • Embroidery thread, white • Toy stuffing • Fabric scrap • Ribbon, assorted red • Cushion pad, 48cm square • Concealed zip

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stitch some elves

Make a Santa

Size: 15cm height Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use them to cut four body pieces, four arms and two hat shapes from green felt and two buckles from white felt.

Needle felt some stuffing to make two 2cm diameter heads (see the Needle Felting panel, right).

Pin two body pieces together and slip stitch around the curved edge, leaving the straight one open.

Needle felt more stuffing, then fill the body with it to make sturdier.

Secure two yellow buttons to the chest of each elf and a tiny circle of red felt at the point of each hat.

Make a belt by cutting a point at one end of spotty red ribbon, thread it through the white buckle, then place the belt around the waistband and sew in place. Position the arms towards the top of each curved body and sew in place.

Size: 15cm height Use the printed templates to cut two bodies, two arms and one hat from red felt, then snip a buckle from white felt and a circular motif from fabric.

Needle felt a 2.5cm ball of stuffing for the head.

Create the body as for the Elves. Felt more stuffing to create cuffs at the base of each arm. Sew the arms towards the top of the curved body. Stitch the head to the top of the body.

Twirl a small piece of stuffing to create a beard and needle felt it to the sides of the head. Make a belt as for the elves.

Stick the circular motif above the belt buckle. Felt a cuff for the red hat, fold in half and sew together. Sew a tiny white ball of stuffing to the hat's point. Fold the tip of the hat down and needle felt along the fold to maintain the crease and place on his head.

1

2 3

Give needle felting a go!

To needle felt, simply tear off pieces of toy stuffing and make a small pile in the centre of a sponge.

Stab a felting needle through the filling and into the sponge; the stuffing will start to matt together.

Fold the edges into the centre, lifting from the sponge.

Keep felting and rolling the filling as you go to create a ball shape.

1

2 3

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sew home

Appliqué a pillow Size: 48cm square

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Fold a square of card in half, then again. From the centre point of this piece fold again, matching the edges together to make an arrow shape.

““You could use this appliqué method to personalise a cushion with a motif of your recipient's initial, or favourite animal or hobby" Amanda Walker, sew designer

2

Use the template to cut the shape from folded card, unfold, then create the snowflake. Place onto the paper side of self-adhesive felt and cut using a craft knife.

3

Cut two 48cm squares from red felt. Place the felt snowflake centrally on top of the red felt square, peel the paper backing off the felt and carefully secure in place.

4

Using white embroidery thread make a running stitch around the outline of the snowflake and diamond centres. Press the piece and place the other felt square on top.

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free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

5

Pin the edges of the squares together and stitch around with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Leave a 36cm gap at the base and stitch a concealed zip into it. Clip any bulk, turn right side out and tease out the corners. Press, and add a cushion pad.

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TOPof the CLASS Learn something new with one of these dressmaking workshops!

If you’re looking to sew your handmade wardrobe even bigger, we’ve rounded up a selection of classes that will give you the skills to create garments that are tailored to fit – in whatever style, colour and fabric you want. From ladies’ and men’s shirts to dresses, and even tailored jackets and coats, there are courses around the UK that will teach you new skills and open up even more possibilities.

Shirt & Blouse making Sew Creative, Petersfield New at Sew Creative, this class is aimed at those who have some experience of garment-making and wish to improve their skills. Using the New Look 6197 shirt pattern, you can choose to make either the ladies’ or the men’s design, and will learn professional finishing techniques such as applying yokes, topstitching, and how to make collars and buttonholes. Priced £75, including the pattern, tuition and use of the shop’s Elna sewing machines, you only need to bring fabric. Visit sewcreative.org.uk or call 01730 858020.

Make a Coat or Jacket Jane White Couture Tuition, Barton-upon-Humber

Adult Dressmaking Courses Quilting in the Meadows, Weston-Super-Mare

This four-day course is an ideal opportunity to plan and make your own stylish jacket or winter coat from start to finish. It takes place across four Mondays – the next available course is scheduled to take place on 6th, 13th, 20th and 27th November. Students will choose a pattern and fabric, then make a toile before constructing the final garment using a range of tailoring skills.

Priced £199. Visit janewhitetuition.co.uk or call 01482 840712.

Those wanting to get to grips with making their own dresses will have the chance to learn from an experienced London fashion designer on this comprehensive course, which starts on 4th October from 6.30pm-9pm. Priced £75 for six weeks, students can also purchase the fabrics and patterns needed at the shop during the first session. For more details, visit Quilting in the Meadows’ Facebook page, and call 01934 643261 to book.

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sew home

Get started

• Cotton print fabrics, four • Fusible interfacing • Red spotty ribbon, 2.5cm wide • Decorative red ribbon • Metal bells • Red cord • Small pegs

Size

Custom-sized

Sew a garland

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut it out from card. Snip two 12cm x 18cm rectangles of fabric for the front and back, then fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the front stocking. Place the rectangles wrong sides together and draw the stocking shape onto the front piece. Line up the straight edge at the back of the stocking with the grain of the fabric, and pin the layers together.

GET ON TOP OF YOUR FESTIVE STITCHING WITH THIS

stocking bunting It’s never too soon to begin thinking about your Christmas projects – as we know too well, the weeks fly by quicker than Rudolph! Decorated with adorable mini stockings, this Scandi-inspired garland by Amanda Walker is a great project to get you started and quick enough to whip up last-minute. You can make it as long or short as you like – nine socks should cover a mantelpiece – choosing fabrics to match your festive palette.

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

2

Stitch along the drawn line, then snip along the straight edge at the top of the stocking. Press over 2.5cm onto the front piece to reveal the backing, creating a cuff at the top.

3

Stitch a length of spotty ribbon to the stocking’s cut straight side. Pin and edgestitch both sides in place.

Cut out the stocking with pinking shears, 5mm away from the stitching line.

4

Thread a bell onto a length of red cord, then tie into a bow so it sits in the middle of the knot. Glue or stitch it centrally to the spotty ribbon.

Repeat to make more sock shapes with contrasting fabrics. Peg the finished designs along a length of decorative red ribbon.

“Create your own version of this bunting by swapping the stockings for fir trees or Christmas puddings.”

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You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways #SEWTAGYOUR MAKE What have you been making recently? Share your photos with us by posting and using the hashtag #SewTagYourMake on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, tagging @sewhq to automatically enter this competition. One entrant will win a bundle of Long Island fat quarters by Gütermann. The winner will be announced in our Sew Social letters page next issue! To find stockist details, contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

7 to win!

Woodland kits

Looking for a way to get your kids stitching? We bet they’d love making their own woodland chums from felt, so The Crafty Kit Company is offering the entire set – that includes a badger, fox, squirrel and hedgehog mini sewing kit, worth £5.99 each. Visit craftykitcompany.co.uk We have seven bundles to give away. To enter, tick WOODLAND

DREAM MACHINE

Do you want a userfriendly sewing machine that has heaps of fantastic features to help you achieve the best possible results?

Turn to page 18 of our Brother mini-mag for more information, or head to brothersewing.co.uk to check out the full spec!

worth

£599!

We have one machine to give away. To enter, tick INNOV-IS F420

Vlieseline interlining

Adding interlining to garments is a clever way of achieving a professional finish, so it’s always handy to have some in your stash. We have a metre of Vlieseline’s light, medium and heavyweight interlinings, all worth £11, with every winner receiving all three! Contact crafts @stockistenquiries.co.uk We have 15 bundles to give away.

To enter, tick VLIESELINE

6 to win!

sew October

giveaways Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big!

15 to win!

TAILOR’S AWLS

These are tools that no dressmaking kit is complete without.

You can use Clover’s tapered awl to punch through leather, the straight one for machine stitching, and the curved tool to pick up threads. They retail at £30 for the three. Contact clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have six bundles to give away.

To enter, tick TAILOR’S AWLS

4

Vintage fabric

If you love vintage-inspired designs, you’re in for a treat. Four lucky readers will each win at least a metre of one of these fabrics! Just don’t forget to send us a picture of what you make with it and use the hashtag #SewTagYourMake when posting on social media.

We have four fabric lengths to give away. To enter, tick FABRIC

to win!

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You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways RELIABLE THREADS

We can’t stress enough how important it is to use quality branded threads, so we’re sharing some of ours with you! This bundle includes Gütermann Sulky sets, plus Silky-Finish and Extra Strong reels by Mettler, and is worth £50! Contents may vary slightly from those shown. Contact gutermann @stockistenquiries.co.uk and visit amann-mettler.com We have two bundles to give away.

To enter, tick RELIABLE

More than

£1,600

Tilda Harvest

Try out Tilda’s new Harvest collection with five fat quarters in one of four deliciously rich colourways, with sweet bird, berry and cabbage flower designs.

You can read more about the range on p7!

For stockist information email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have eight fat quarter bundles to give away.

To enter, tick HARVEST

worth of prizes to be won!

8 to win!

worth

£50!

6 to win!

3 to win!

ESSENTIAL GOODIES

Take a look at all of these sewing kit fillers! You’ll be well equipped to undertake any sewing challenge, from measuring and marking fabric to securing, manipulating and mending. To find where they are stocked near you, contact groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have three bundles to give away. To enter, tick HEMLINE

McCalls M6896

This pattern offers four easy -sew pretty peplum tops in sizes 16-24, which feature flattering princess seams and an in-seam zipper at the back. It also has three sleeve options, plus you can choose to create a narrow V-shaped cutout at the front. £8.75, createandcraft.com We have six patterns to give away. To enter, tick M6896 PATTERN

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 04.10.2017*

*Except for Brother Innov-is F420 giveaway, which closes on 12.10.2017. Mark your envelope:

Sew October Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

FABRIC

INNOV-IS F420

TAILOR’S AWLS

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other..............................................................................

HARVEST

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HEMLINE

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WOODLAND

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Editor, Jennifer Ward jennifer.ward@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Melissa Hyland melissa@aceville.co.uk 01206 505423 Editorial Assistant, Emma Thompson emma.thompson@aceville.co.uk 01206 505917 Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton Fiona Palmer & Louise Abbott Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Katie B (cover), Gingersnap, Kirsty R, Fiona McDonald, Jennifer Bird, BMA models Stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Makeup, Dottie Monaghan Accounts Denise Bubb 01206 505958

your

SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply

graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size. l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

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HIGH BUST FULL BUST

Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2017 All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over the elastic.

Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

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READING A PATTERN

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitted garment?

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting.

This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate different dress sizes.

Cut accordingly to yours.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern, where you can make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Match the lines together when stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric as you position your pieces.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate the position for placement on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“‘Always iron your paper pattern to flatten it after having been folded into an envelope. If there are any creases, your fabric may not be cut to the right size – which can cause difficulties later on.”

DEBBIE SHORE

PLACING YOUR PIECES

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

With the printed pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. The tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching. It also allows you to adjust the placement if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabrics first.

This means that you will know how the fabric reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press the material with an iron using a suitable heat setting. Lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.

WARP

WEFT

81

sewmag.co.uk

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric.

Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 11/08/2017 15:31 Page 82

Sew Saturday

Proudly sponsored by:

21st October, 2017 Supported by:

BRISTOL

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm

0117 977 8216

CLEVELAND

Opening hours: Saturday: 12.00-16.30 Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday: 10.00-17.30 7 Steel Close, Eaton Socon, St Neots PE19 8TT

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shop@sewinspiredplymouth.co.uk www.sewinspiredplymouth.co.uk

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CARDIFF

13 Camms Corner Dinas Powys CF64 4QY Tel: 029 2115 2628 email: shop@whitegeckoevents.co.uk

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

CARDIFF

25 Gelligaer Gardens, Cathays, Cardiff, CF24 4LT www.trixielixie.co.uk hello@trixielixie.co.uk

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

CEREDIGION

CORNWALL

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CORNWALL

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CORNWALL

www.fabritastic.co.uk

The Sewing Studio 10-12 Chapel Street Redruth, Cornwall TR15 2BY

26 Culley Court, Orton Southgate, Peterborough. PE2 6WA

COUNTY DURHAM

1 Biddicks Court, St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 5PY

Be Inspired

www.fabritastic.co.uk laura@fabritastic.co.uk 01733 367260 /fabritastic

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Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk

DEVON

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 11/08/2017 15:26 Page 83

DEVON

EAST SUSSEX

HAMPSHIRE

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham GL50 4AA

Visit us for local service with internet prices 31 Mill Street, Sidmouth, EX10 8DF

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EAST SUSSEX

Belle Fabrics For Bridal, Dress, Craft & Furnishing Fabrics

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EAST SUSSEX

Branksomewood Road • Fleet • Hampshire • GU51 4JS

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HAMPSHIRE

GREATER MANCHESTER

ESSEX

Little Sew and Sew

01252 444220

tel: 01242 244025

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We offer designer fabrics, wools, notions and workshops

Stockists of Butterick, Vogue, McCalls & Simplicity Dress Patterns

Selling all things hand-made from the local community.

Come in and see.

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Hythe, Southampton, Hampshire Open: Monday-Saturday, 9.00am–5.30pm UniqueRetailShop

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HERTFORDSHIRE

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EAST SUSSEX

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New Arrivals Weekly

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HERTFORDSHIRE

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**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 11/08/2017 15:20 Page 84

Sew Saturday

Proudly sponsored by:

21st October, 2017 Supported by:

KENT

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SEW SATURDAY 84 Penny Meadows Ashton-Under-Lyme OL6 6EP

LANCASHIRE

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LANCASHIRE

Over 2000 fabrics in stock

Enjoy professional tuition – where you’ll sew amongst enthusiasts!

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• Dressmaking • Tailoring • Corsetry • City & Guilds

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Join our fun ‘Sewing Bee’ workshops and short courses for garment technique specific projects.

We can arrange one to one tuition to suit you.

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on 21st October

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LINCOLNSHIRE

71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE65 1AH

Tel: 01530 416300 /schoolofsewing @sewalison

@sewwardrobe Sew Wardrobe

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LEICESTERSHIRE

The Ropewalk, Barton upon Humber, North Lincolnshire DN18 5JT

LINCOLNSHIRE

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 11/08/2017 15:41 Page 85

LINCOLNSHIRE

MORAY

Join Leanne on Sew Saturday for games, competitions, special offers and more!

LINCOLNSHIRE

NORFOLK

NORTH YORKSHIRE

WE ARE NOW OPEN IN HULL! Unit 2, 32 Albion Street, Hull, HU13TE

OXFORDSHIRE

Lady Sew and

At L&C Fabrics We Sew, We Make, We Create 217-219 Grimsby Road, Cleethorpes, DN35 7HB

T. 01472 600874 www.lcfabrics.co.uk lcfabrics@live.co.uk OPEN: Mon - Fri 9.30-5pm Sat 9.30-4pm FREE CAR PARKING!

The Start of Something YOU

LINCOLNSHIRE

Dress Fabrics, Haberdashery, Workshops and Sewing Machines 1 Lynn Road, Downham Market, Norfolk PE38 9NJ Tel: 01366 387147 sewingroomdownhammarket

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Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.

Tel: 07495 012546

Sew

www.ladysewandsew.co.uk

Farm Road, Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire RG9 IEJ

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Follow us on Facebook: @bugweeds

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LONDON

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Shed Load Of Crafts

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Drop in between 10.00am-1.00pm Come and join us for demonstrations, giveaways, exclusive instore offers, take part in our charity sewing project or just come along for coffee, cake and a chat!

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NOTTINGHAMSHIRE

Witney Sewing and Knitting Centre, 52 High Street, Witney, Oxon, OX28 6HQ Telephone: 01993 702772/704535

Beautiful Fabrics and Haberdashery for all your Sewing needs.

Sales service and Sewing machine repairs.

SELKIRK

Fabrics, Haberdashery, Patterns, Workshops, Classes & Clubs - all under one roof!

Browns Garden Village Theobalds Park Road Enfield, EN2 9DG

London Road Carpark, Newark Upon Trent, Nottingham, NG24 1TN

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hello@newarkcrafthub.co.uk www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk

14 West Port Selkirk TD7 4DG

NORTHUMBERLAND

UNIT 3, WARKWORTH DRIVE, ELLINGTON, NE61 5HL

SEW MUCH TO DO

01670 457150 FABRICS AND HABERDASHERY SEWING MACHINES AND SERVICE SEWING LESSONS ALTERATIONS AND DRESSMAKING www.thesewingmachineguy.co.uk

Fabric, Haberdashery - Workshops - Yarn Sewing Machines & Overlockers Ely 7 High Street Passage, Ely, CB7 4NB Tel: 01353 664000 Email: ely@sewmuchtodo.co.uk

Bury St. Edmunds 23 Hatter Street, Bury St. Edmunds, IP33 1NE Tel: 01284 755459 Email: bury@sewmuchtodo.co.uk

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 11/08/2017 13:04 Page 86

Sew Saturday

Proudly sponsored by:

21st October, 2017 Supported by:

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

SOMERSET

Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium

01373 464437

Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops m We’ ov ve ed !

Fabrics & Workshops

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www.fromragstostitches.co.uk hello@fromragstostitches.co.uk

●

85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham S66 7BL

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

SOMERSET

The Corner Patch

Opening Hours: Tues - Sat 10 - 5 Late Night Wednesday until 8 Fabric, Wadding, Threads and Haberdashery Telephone: 01785 859360 e-mail: jane@thecornerpatch.co.uk 12 High Street, Eccleshall, Stafford ST21 6BZ

www.thecornerpatch.co.uk STAFFORDSHIRE

10am – 4pm £30 for the day kit included Be our sewing queen for the day Spaces limited book now to avoid disappointment Contact us on 01473 722888 Email: kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk Website: www.kisquilting.co.uk facebook.com/kisquiltingltd

630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield S7 2BA Tel: 0114 258 3763 Email: patchworkgarden@hotmail.com www.thepatchworkgarden.co.uk

SOUTH YORKSHIRE

STAFFORDSHIRE

Quilting in the Meadows • Come inside and browse our wide range of fabrics and haberdashery • Providing a friendly & helpful service • Join Debbie for a variety of workshops, including quilting, dressmaking & bag making!

10% off in store with this advert.

Award winning Fabric and Yarn store with over 3,000 fabrics in stock Shop online or in store

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FREE cake, demos, and balloon prizes!

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SUFFOLK

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Workshop & Classes for all Abilities

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STAFFORDSHIRE

a little corner of patchwork heaven

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STAFFORDSHIRE

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Introducing our New Mystery Quilt programme, full details of which can be found on our website.

Classes catering for all abilities as well as weekly club days, all in a friendly and relaxed environment with knowledgeable staff.

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 11/08/2017 15:06 Page 87

WEST SUSSEX

SURREY

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STYLE CLASSICS

Livia dress, £65, whitestuff.com

Cloud cross body bag, £35, cathkidston.com

Day

THE LBD We ask the question you're all thinking... what is it anyway?

Words by Emma Thompson

Powder blue frill cuff cardigan, £18, mandco.com

Evalina clutch, £35, monsoon.co.uk

Silver metallic kimono, £42, evans.co.uk

Night Ruffle sandals, £36, next.co.uk Laria sandals, £45, dunelondon.com

'Every woman should have a little black dress.' It's the adage we've all heard a thousand times.

Growing tired of being told what we should wear is what brought many of us to the sewing machine in the first place, but the LBD is one instance where we just might listen. Black dresses are a go-to for

many women today, yet only 100 years ago, we wore them only when grieving – and it was considered bad luck to even store the clothes after the mourning period.

However, attitudes towards almost everything changed following the end of WWI, and so ladies were already wearing the garment when Coco Chanel's simple knee-length black dress hit the shelves in 1926 on the pages of American Vogue.

The little black dress was instantly hailed a classic, as it was a popular fashion choice for women of all social classes; so much so that it was fondly labelled the ‘LBD’.

That’s not to say that all short black dresses are worthy of such accolade, nor that one style is better than the other, as we all have different bodies and tastes, of course – where one woman chooses a mini, another's dress ends below the knee – yet both are LBDs. The only criteria is that it should flatter, be elegant and stay simple – so that it will never be relegated to an outdated trend, but always retain its timeless charm.

“Choose a style that suits your height and shape, in a good quality fabric that will stand the test of time,” Jo Marsden of high street shop White Stuff advises. If you have a great dress that you look and feel fabulous in, you'll be able to rely on it for any occasion. “The right LBD can be paired equally well with flats and a casual jacket for a chic daytime look as it can with heels and statement jewellery for night.”

So, how do you go about making yourself the perfect LBD? Assess what you love about a selection of your favourite dresses – if you like a neckline from one and the sleeve type and seamwork of others, pattern hack until you're happy. We promise, the end result will be worth the time and effort. As for fabric, go for something that's easy to work with so you can focus on the finish. It should be comfortable too – you can't go wrong with a high-quality cotton.

It's fair to say that the little black dress is a classic because, unlike garments with a specific shape or cut that suit a small minority, it can be altered, changed and made as individual as we are – yet still keeping the trademark style that grants its LBD status. Perhaps the saying should be 'A versatile plain black dress in a flattering length and style, with the right accessories, will be a valuable garment to many women'. But that just isn't catchy, is it?

90

sewmag.co.uk

sew your own

FREE PATTERN ALERT!

Imaginary portrait of Coco Chanel wearing her 1926 'Ford' dress, by Karl Lagerfeld © Chanel / Karl Lagerfeld

Audrey Hepburn was as classic, elegant and timeless as the LBD. Find this fit-and-flair pattern for FREE at sewmag.co.uk /templates

Get all the materials to stitch an LBD – 2m of black Ponte de Roma, fastenings and thread, plus Simplicity's 8213 flattering A-line dress with a variety of neckline, sleeve and skirt options. £19.99, craftstoreuk.com

SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 91

SEW OCTOBER 17 ISSUE 101_SEW 11/08/2017 15:14 Page 92

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IT 36 MAKE MAGIC

In association with

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for Christmas!

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Make today...

Gift tomorrow!

EASY QUILT cut from squares

WIN A BROTHER MACHINE

Worth £599!

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LUXE PARTY SKIRT

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Sew in an evening!

SEWING SUPERSTAR LAUREN GUTHRIE

✷ “I’ve used Brother ✷ ✷ ✷ machines for 10 years” ✷

Plus

FOXY CUSHION & TOY SET · MACHINE EMBROIDERY MADE SIMPLE · KIDS’ DUNGAREES

F420 The Innov-is F420 is packed with a huge range of features including 140 stitches, lettering, lock stitch button, automatic thread cutter, and Square Feed Drive System for strong, smooth, even sewing on all types of fabric.

Create your own style

55FE The feature-packed Innov-is 55 Fashion Edition will shape your fashion dreams into reality. 81 stitches including 10 one step button hole styles plus lettering together with the included 12 accessory feet make this an excellent all round machine.

27SE The Innov-is 27SE offers fantastic versatility for both the beginner and experienced sewer. With fingertip controls, 50 stitches including 5 one step button hole styles and a protective hard case; it’s ideal for all kinds of sewing.

brothersewing.co.uk

Hello and WELCOME...

Stitch it with

I

grew up surrounded by fabrics as a youngster because my Mum worked from home as a dressmaker. Naturally, it wasn’t long before I learned to sew! Now, I love making clothes in fabrics that We’ve used the would be unaffordable in designer Innov-is NV1300 in our studio! shops. If this is you too, you’ll find a number of projects in the following pages to help you stitch rack-worthy garments – with a wrap skirt (p6), easy top (p16) and mini dungarees (p26).

I’ve been using Brother sewing machines for 10 years now, and haven’t looked back since. The first model I had was a cute anniversary edition of what is now the Innov-is 15. After being a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee in 2013, I opened my shop and studio in Birmingham, Guthrie & Ghani, and invested in a set of 10 Brother machines to use in our workshops. Since then, I’ve tried three more of the brand’s models and have loved them all! My favourite features are the needle threader and thread cutter, but I also enjoy how smooth and quiet they are.

It’s never too early to start preparing for Christmas and this year, my husband and I are making a doll’s house for my daughter Sophia; he will make the frame and I’ll create a canvas that will be the outside – along with other accessories. You can get started on your festive makes with a wall hanging (p10) or stocking (p14), plus great gift ideas like a quilt and cushion set (p19) and foxy friend, toy sack and pillow (p28). One of the best things about having my own sewing shop is that I have the biggest fabric stash ever! I try to source fabrics that I think my customers will love as much as I do, and that We’re swapping to the work beautifully with our Brother machines. new Innov-is F420.

Lauren Guthrie,

CONTENTS

04 STITCH, LEARN, BUY The latest news and more ELENA WRAP-SKIRT 06 S Easy to stitch and wear ROTHER BY YOUR 08 B SIDE Discover all about the brand’s history NOME KEEPSAKE 10 G Practise multiple techniques OLOUR MATCH 11 C THREAD REPORT Find out what’s trending WAYS TO MAKE 12 9 MEMORIES With the help of Brother’s Innov-is XV MBROIDERED 14 E STOCKINGS Get stitchy with luxe silk dupions ERSEY TOP Our cover 16 J star! Master knit fabrics now IN A BROTHER F420 18 W Not to be missed!

GUEST EDITOR Guthrie & Ghani use Brother sewing machines in all of its workshops 2017 is a milestone year for Brother, as it manufactures its 60 millionth machine!

Find out more about the brand’s heritage on p8!

UILT AND CUSHION 19 Q SET The perfect gift idea

22 “ I MAKE A LIVING WITH…” a Brother sewing machine!

EWING ROOM STARS 24 S The secret’s out! Four models for every ability NISEX DUNGAREES 26 U Comfy for youngsters

facebook.com /brothersewingUK

Instagram @brothersewingUK

OXY SET Make our trio 28 F

Brother offers a wide range of sewing, embroidery and quilting machines, plus overlockers and accessories, for all your stitching needs. Visit brothersewing.co.uk GUEST EDITOR Lauren Guthrie EDITOR Jennifer Ward jennifer.ward@aceville.co.uk DEPUTY EDITOR Melissa Hyland EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Emma Thompson CONTRIBUTOR Elena Thompson GROUP EDITOR Lynn Martin PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Helen Tudor ADVERTISEMENT SALES Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk, 01206 506255 ART DIRECTOR Phil Dunham DESIGNERS Gemma Eales & Fiona Palmer

3

30 H OOP, HOOP, HOORAY The low-down on in the hoop embroidery RUE REVIEW We try 32 T out the Innov-is NV2600

34 I N THE STUDIO WITH LAUREN GUTHRIE A peek inside Guthrie & Ghani HQ!

Make the cut!

BUY

We love the new face of Fiskars’ high-quality rotary cutter. With an easy-grip rounded handle, you can get ultra-close to your ruler and ensure a clean cut every time. Choose from a fab geometric or pretty floral design! Better yet, it fits our favourite 45mm blades. fiskars.co.uk

stitch

LEARN

Getting to know you

The first step can be the hardest, but it doesn’t have to be. Guthrie & Ghani’s Get to Know your Sewing Machine workshop teaches the anatomy of your new companion, and shows you how to set it up for sewing and then stitch a buttonhole, plus even covers troubleshooting questions. You’ll leave feeling as if you know your machine better than the back of your own hand. £28 for 2.5 hours, check dates and availability at guthrie-ghani.co.uk

LEARN &BUY

COVER ALL BASES AND MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR MONTH!

Overall, a great pattern!

Make our mini pair on p26!

LEARN

Out and about

Will you be joining us at the biggest textile show in the UK? Make your way to Alexandra Palace in London between 11th-15th October for The Knitting & Stitching Show. It will be a hub of excitement, with workshops, galleries and exhibitions from your favourite stitchy names.

Tickets available from £14.50, theknittingand stitchingshow.com

Find Brother at stand D35

Intermediate stitchers can get to work with Sew House Seven’s latest pattern, Burnside Bibs. This pair of dungarees would work equally well tending to your flowers as it would at a garden party, depending on your fabric choice!

With curved front pockets, cross-over straps and a back waist gather, plus a host of different feature options, this is a really versatile pattern. £17.99, minervacrafts.com

STITCH 4

Stitch it with

STITCH

Project Runway returns

BUY

Embarking on its 16th series and hosted by model Heidi Klum, Project Runway is set to be more dazzling than ever before as contestants compete to win a host of career-boosting prizes, including a fantastic selection of Brother sewing machines. On top of dressmaking at the speed of light, we’ll be able to enjoy a more realistic reflection of body diversity this year, with models ranging from sizes 4-26 showing off the couture attire. Between episodes, stitch a beautiful scuba dress, with a variety of sleeves and an optional collar.

Simplicity 8213, £8.95, simplicitynewlook.com

Innov-is 55 Fashion Edition Fill your wardrobe using this feature-packed machine which gives all stitchers the capability to make impressive ready-to-wear garments. It boasts 80 built-in stitches including 10 styles of 1-step buttonholes, with additional lettering, plus an advanced needle threader, quick set bobbin and seven changeable feet. It also comes with five extra feet, worth £59.99. £449, brothersewing.co.uk

LEARN

Simply BUY charming

It’s never too early to make a start on your Christmas stitching and, as you’ll see in this mini-mag, we’ve been working on a few festive projects already! Dip your toe and take out the hassle by working up a couple of small projects using a fabric charm pack. We love Art Noveau by Fabric Freedom, £14.95 for pack of 42 12.5cm squares, discoverdirect.co.uk

Meet the Brother team at stand F43

Sewing Bee Live Comedian, writer and dazzling TV personality Jenny Eclair is set to host two live shows per day during The Great British Sewing Bee Live show at ExCel London, from 21st-24th September. Get top tips from Patrick and Esme, plus glimpses behind the scenes, workshops, demonstrations, drop-in clinics, galleries, catwalks and shopping. Find out more at thegreatbritish sewingbeelive.com

Find the perfect sewing machine and more news at brothersewing.co.uk 5

SEW OUR SELENA SKIRT stitch it yourself!

GET CONFIDENT WITH BUTTONHOLES – TRY THIS EASY WRAP

GET STARTED k Heavyweight cotton

(140cm wide), 2m k Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm k Buttons, two

Wrap skirts are seriously underrated as a modest yet fun go-to that are easy to sew. This design by Amanda Walker boasts repeating panels that are joined together without fuss, making this ideal for newbie stitchers. Use excess fabric to make a covered button to give your skirt an extra professional finish.

Heavyweight cotton is a great fabric choice as it’s a breeze to work with, yet won’t leave you standing like Marilyn Monroe in an updraft.

SIZES k Custom-sized* *Cutting lines for sizes 8-16, adjust the fit with button position FIND A RANGE OF MEDIUM TO HEAVYWEIGHT COTTONS AT GUTHRIEGHANI.CO.UK

CUTTING GUIDE k Front: cut one pair from

cotton and one pair (edge only, see template) from interfacing k Side: cut one pair from cotton k Back: cut one on the fold from cotton k Waistband: cut one each from cotton and interfacing k Front edge facing: cut one from interfacing 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

STITCH A WRAP SKIRT

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut out as indicated in the cutting guide.

Match one front piece to a side panel, right sides together. Pin and sew along one long edge.

Repeat with the remaining panels, joining the back panel in the middle to create one wide, flat piece. Trim and press the seam allowances open.

2

Fuse interfacing to the open edge of each front piece on the wrong side, then fold and press along the marked facing lines to form the facings. Press

interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband. Fold in by 1.5cm along one of the long edges and press. Pin the other long edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt, leaving the seam allowance protruding from each end.

3

itself to neaten, aligning it with the facing fold. Stitch across, then trim the excess fabric from the seam allowance before turning the waistband over to the right side. Edge or slip stitch the lower waistband edge in place by hand.

4

Sew the waistband in place, then tuck each end back on 6

Lay the skirt flat with the wrong side facing up, then

fold and press a 5mm hem along the bottom and edge stitch across. Make a buttonhole in the waistband above each edge of the left-hand front panel, and sew corresponding buttons in the band above the opposite front panel, wrapping the skirt around your waist to determine their position.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN ONLINE

Stitch with Stitch ititwith

Core Skill:

1-STEP AUTO BUTTONHOLE

Place your button in the holder on the reverse of the buttonhole foot to set the size. Snap the foot onto your machine and position the bottom end of the placement marking under the needle. Lower your foot, pull down the lever to the left of the needle and press start on your machine. Insert a pin at either end before cutting the centre open to protect the stitching.

Stitch it with Buttonhole buddy!

Price

ÂŁ249 Innov-is 15 Create an entire skirt with ease, using this beginner-friendly model 4 Easy to use jog dial, making stitch selection simple 4 Total of 16 built-in stitches 4 Back-lit LCD screen with digital stitch length and width controls 4 Automatic needle threading system 4 Three styles of 1-step automatic buttonhole 4 Drop feed setting 4 Quick-set top-loading bobbin for easy threading

Find this machine and more beginner-friendly models at brothersewing.co.uk 7

Brotherly love! Masayoshi and Jitsuichi Yasui inherited the company from their father

A stitch through time THE RISE OF THE BRAND JOURNEY WITH US AND FIND OUT HOW BROTHER SEWING BRAND CAME TO BE – FROM THE FIRST REPAIR TO A BIG BRAND SUCCESS

I

The Yasui Sewing Machine Company started out in Nagoya in 1908, before becoming Brother Industries in 1925

f you own a Brother sewing machine, you will know the company is at the forefront of stitching innovation – an accolade it has held for more than a century.

In 1908, Kanekichi Yasui established the Yasui Sewing Machine Co. in Nagoya, Japan, where he repaired damaged sewing machines and manufactured replacement parts. The company was later inherited by his sons Masayoshi and Jitsuichi Yasui, who reinvented it as Brother Industries. Their passion for stitching blossomed further in 1968 after they acquired the Jones sewing machine factory in Audenshaw, Greater Manchester, taking a company that was already firmly established as one of Britain’s favourite brands under their wing.

1908

AT A GLANCE

Masayoshi and Jitsuichi Yasui inherit the company and rename it to Brother Industries

Kanekichi Yasui founds the Yasui Sewing Machine Co.

1925

1928

Brother’s first chain-stitch sewing machine is released 8

Mass production of sewing machines begins with the model 15 Type 70

1932

The brothers’ desire to become an industry sensation grew with the creation of three machines targeting both home consumers and businesses.

“The first model was the chain-stitch sewing machine released in 1928, which was sold primarily for producing straw hats,” says Stuart Stamp from Brother Sewing. “Next in line was the Model 15 Type 70 in 1932, Brother’s first domestic sewing machine, and in 1936 the company’s lockstitch machine was released for the larger business user.” In 1968, Brother gained steamed ahead by introducing the B-701 electric machine model, which cut production time in half and revolutionised the sewing trade.

1947

Brother begins exporting sewing machines around the world

The company acquires the Jones sewing machine factory in Audenshaw, Greater Manchester

1968

1979

First electronic sewing machine is released

MOVING WITH THE TIMES

Nowadays, taking a piece of fabric and turning it into something wonderful is easier than ever. “When it comes to accuracy, speed and creativity, hobbyists face no restrictions,” Stuart explains.

“Modern features such as speed control, built-in stitches and automatic functions make the sewing process much more efficient for stitchers.”

In 2014, Brother released the highlyaccalimed ScanNCut. As the world’s first home and hobby cutting machine with a built-in scanner, it could be widely used by sewers for projects like quilting and dressmaking. “The machine took the craft market by storm with its ability to turn scanned images into unique cutting designs and projects without a need for computers or expensive software,” he says.

Never a company to rest on its laurels, just one year later Brother introduced the Innov-is XV. This incorporated advancements in the camera technology of its much applauded predecessor, the Innov-is I, which had shaken up the stitching world in 2008. The new, improved version further developed the ability to scan drawings and then turn them into embroidery designs.

Today, the desire for more advanced technology runs alongside the audience’s need for equipment that is easier and quicker to use. In September 2016, Brother Sewing had a successful launch within its Innov-is range – this included five sewing and embroidery machines for both beginner and expert-level sewers.

The machines featured the latest in sewing technology, such as an easy-to-use LCD touch screen, advanced needle threading systems, built-in designs, and a square feed drive, providing optimum stitch quality.

CAPTURING AN AUDIENCE Whether you have been sewing all your life or are new to the craft, Brother Sewing will tick all of your creative boxes.

“With more than 100 years of expertise, customers know that a Brother machine will be a solid investment and trust the brand’s reputation for producing high quality, reliable and competitively-priced machines,” says Stuart. “Brother’s motto At Your Side is something the brand consistently advocates by developing machines that can guide newbies and beginner, all the way through to

Stitch it with 1928 1932

Brother’s first chain stitch machine was a huge success

The brand’s first domestic sewing machine broke new ground in the craft sphere

2016

Brother has been at the cutting edge of sewin g advancements for nearly a century professional stitchers and crafty businesses.”

Exciting research by the Craft & Hobby Trade Association states that more than one million people have taken up sewing in the last three years. “We are now seeing more artisanal sewing and embroidery being injected into high street clothing, programmes like The Great British Sewing Bee on television, and plenty of crafters selling their creations on specialist sites such as Etsy,” Stuart continues.

Fashion is rapidly changing, so what does this mean for the Brother brand? “Brother Sewing will continue to secure its position as a market leader in developing innovative yet easy-to-use products for the home sewing machine market,” explains Stuart. Whatever your skill level or preferred technique, rest assured that however your skills evolve, Brother is a sewing machine brand that will remain very firmly at your side.

Enjoy browsing Brother models and find out more at brothersewing.co.uk Brother’s first personal sewing and embroidering system The Super Galaxy comes to the market

1991

The new and The Innov-is range Professional stitchers Brother launches 2008 2012 innovative expands with the 2014 are inspired with the Pro PR-1000 ScanNCut makes introduction of the release of the professional its way into five sewing and PR-600 professional embroidering machine crafters’ homes Innov-is XV embroidery machines embroidering machine The integrated video Brother machine launches, The 50 millionth launches its first -camera technology complete with the machine rolls off embroidering embroidering system latest in sewing the production software, the brings accurate stitching 2010 2014 2016 2003 technology line PE-Design to the consumer market

1996

9

DOWNLOAD TEMPLATES ONLINE

GET STARTED k Cotton fabric: snowflake

print, red, turquoise, grey k Backing fabric k White felt k Bias binding k Wadding k Black embroidery thread k Split ring, 12mm k Water soluble marker k Fabric glue

SIZE

MAKEbuild A GNOME KEEPSAKE your skills!

EXPLORE YOUR MACHINE’S DECORATIVE STITCHES If you’re looking to put your stitchy skills to the test, this wonderful keepsake

by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier is the perfect project to cosy up with. Practise appliqué and quilting, then try your hand at a touch of embroidery to create the message or your own unique version! This slogan is worked in free-motion embroidery, which requires a free motion or darning foot, but it would also be a great chance to explore the decorative stitches and fonts on your machine.

k 30cm diameter

know how to channel quilt

SEW A CUTE WALL HANGING

Channel quilting most commonly involves stitching multiple straight lines, spaced equal distances apart to create ‘channels’. This method is worked in rings here - securing the fabric and creating a subtle quilted effect!

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use them to cut 11 outer frame pieces from grey, red and turquoise fabrics.

Sew together to form a ring, alternating the colours. Pin this to a layer of wadding, then channel quilt around in concentric circles.

2

Cut a 21cm diameter circle from snowflake fabric, then appliqué the circle to the ring on top of the wadding, hiding the raw edges along the way.

Trim the wadding to size. Use the template to snip the gnome pieces from various fabrics, plus a beard from white felt. Glue to the centre of the circle.

3

Use the template and a water soluble marker to trace the writing. With black thread, use free-motion embroidery or explore your sewing machine’s stitch library to embroider the letters.

Alternatively, use one strand of embroidery thread and backstitch the words by hand.

Work herringbone stitch around the join of the snowflake print and outer section. Use cross stitches and straight stitches around the gnome’s heart.

4

Tack the backing fabric in place, then bind with black and white bias binding. Stitch a split ring centrally to the reverse at the top. Remove any stray threads and water soluble marker lines to finish.

Find the perfect sewing machine for this project at brothersewing.co.uk 10

Your

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Stitch it withit with Stitch

COLOUR MATCH ❄ thread report

A piece of embroidery is only as good as its threads. If you use poor-quality ones, you run the risk of the thread breaking, giving you an uneven tension or worse still, causing havoc inside your machine. Branded threads however, offer better stitch quality and definition – which is a must when creating detailed pieces.

They are also available in a wide rainbow of colours... Here are a few of our favourites, matched to Pantone’s colours for 2017!

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Try out...

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METALLIC

Metallic threads are different to work with than standard embroidery ones. If using them, make sure you are using a metallic needle as these have a larger eye that allows the thread to run through smoothly. It is also worth experimenting with slowing the speed of your machine and reducing the tension, so practise with a scrap of fabric first!

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Find out more about the huge range of embroidery machines at brothersewing.co.uk

sew SHOPPER

Working across from left to right, starting at the top: Gütermann Sulky Rayon 40 (col.1535, dark blue), Madeira Rayon No.40 (col.1127, Loofah), Mettler polysheen No.40 (col.2508, pink), Gütermann Sulky Rayon 40 (col.1248, pastel blue), Madeira Rayon No.40 (col.1169, Split Pea), Gütermann Sulky Rayon 40 (col.1510, Silky Green), Mettler polysheen No.40 (col.0463, Cypress), Mettler polysheen No.40 (col.1102, Pumpkin), Gütermann Sulky Cotton 30, (col.1024, golden), Madeira Rayon No.40 (col.1053, Light Coral), Gütermann Sulky Rayon 40 (col.1029, medium blue) For Gütermann Cotton 30, visit plushaddict.co.uk | To find stockists for all other Gütermann threads, email gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk For Madeira and Mettler threads, visit minervacrafts.com 11 9

1

STIPPLED CUSHION

Make a commemorative pillow to celebrate life’s notable events – a wedding, new baby, milestone birthday. Simply scan an image from the supplied scan frame into the machine, convert it into an embroidery and then choose between the option to stipple inside or outside the design.

Embroidering a cushion or quilt on a specialist machine will help you create unique and professional results!

9 ways to Make M

H H

USE THE BROTHER INNOV-IS XV TO CRAFT KEEPSAKES THAT WILL LAST A LIFETIME

E

xpress your creative side and conjure up a sentimental keepsake with a helping hand from the Innov-is XV. The machine is packed with features stitchers love, like the high-resolution touch screen, intelligent camera-eye system for easier embroidery positioning, built-in designs and on-screen design-editing features, which all combine to put personalisation at the forefront of your designs.

2

KEEPSAKES FROM OLD UNIFORMS

For those nostalgic items of clothing you can’t bear to part with, why not transform them into memento cushions? Using old school uniforms, you can stitch up a keepsake to treasure the memories forever.

To ensure that your designs are secure, the Innov-is XV has a lock-stitch key where, at the touch of a button, tie-off stitches can be sewn at the beginning and end of the stitch.

H

H

3

HEIRLOOM TOYS

Add personality to a toy using in the hoop embroidery. This handy technique allows you to both stitch your plush and add facial features and appliqué for an extra touch of character and sentimental value.

H

4

CUSTOMISE WITH LINE ART

With its line art recognition, the Brother Innov-is XV makes it easier to add handdrawn designs such as pattern templates, your signature or even a child’s drawing to projects using the machine’s sophisticated touchscreen features. If you are feeling a little more imaginative, why not add flowers or animals to update a pre-loved item? It is as easy as drawing, scanning and then stitching your most creative original designs.

5 PERSONAL PLANNER

H

Customise the cover of your diary, journal or even wedding planner using the machine’s built-in designs or one of your own. Choose from styles including modern, pet, vintage or Japanese-inspired embroidered designs to add individuality to your project. The colour-shuffling feature also suggests palettes you might like.

H 12

Stitch it with Oh sew simple!

H

6

H

BABY’S FIRST CHRISTMAS

H

Making something to treasure for years to come as a gift for a little one’s first Christmas is a thoughtful gesture, so if you want to personalise a baby’s vest with festive details, the camera-eye system provides a clear view for those hard to see details. The large screen attached allows you to see your work in detail and the LED pointer shows exactly where the needle will drop.

1 Draw your design

H

Memories H

7

MEMORY BEAR

2 Scan it in... stitch it!

In search of comforting ways to remember a loved one? Stitching a bear using sentimental items of clothing is a wonderful way to keep the memory alive. For accurate stitching, the Innov-is XV’s sewing sensor feature will help you create the perfect bear as it detects the edge of fabric to ensure uniform stitching, even on curves.

8

9

EMBROIDERED PHOTO CARD

A picture is worth a thousand words and this machine has five fonts, 840 alphabetical characters and 514 decorative stitches so you can add your own embroidery to a photo card – ideal for loved ones celebrating a birthday or special occasion.

PICTURE QUILTS

For those photos too precious to keep in a box, a photo quilt is a lovely way to create a unique keepsake. Use the scan feature and built-in camera to convert your scanned images into embroidery data within seconds. The long-arm design gives extra stability and accommodates quilts in both sewing and embroidery mode.

H

SEARCH ‘BROTHER INNOV-IS’ TO FIND TUTORIALS ON YOUTUBE

action at See the Innov-is XV in The and e Liv e Be ing The Sew ow Knitting & Stitching Sh

H

Price

£6,499

Find out more about the Innov-is XV plus a huge range of machines at brothersewing.co.uk 13

STITCH BEAUTIFUL EMBROIDERED STOCKINGS give these a go!

CREATE FESTIVE DECORATIONS FROM SILK DUPION

GET STARTED k Silk dupion,

duck egg blue, red

k White cotton fabric k Curtain interlining k Red ribbon k Thread, red, white

SIZE k 20cm x 29cm

It’s never too early to begin planning your Christmas sewing and these lovely stockings are both stunning and easy to sew, made from shimmering silk dupion in rich red and duck egg blue.

They also feature white cotton cuffs that not only look decorative, but prevent the seam allowance from showing through. As well as being quick to whip up, this is a great opportunity to test your machine embroidery skills by adding attractive borders and a simple fir tree motif.

A concave curve is one that turns

yourknow curves

inward, or is thinner in the middle than on the edges. A convex curve goes outwards, or is thicker in the middle than on the edges.

STITCH LUXURY STOCKINGS

1

Download and print the template at sewmag .co.uk/templates. Use it to cut out a stocking piece from silk dupion, white cotton, and curtain

interlining. Flip the template so it is mirrored and cut another of each. Snip three 8cm x 28cm rectangles of white cotton for the cuffs at the top of the stockings. For the silk trim at the base of the cuff, cut a 4cm x 28cm strip of silk dupion, fold, and press in half lengthways.

2

Pin one of the silk stockings onto a curtain interlining piece, then trace an 8cm tall tree pattern onto the silk as pictured. Set your machine to a decorative stitch, sew the vertical line first, then work the horizontal lines, and trim away any thread ends. Lay the remaining silk stocking onto the embroidered front, followed by the remaining curtain interlining stocking.

Pin all the layers together and stitch around the edges with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving the top open.

3

Clip into any concave curves and trim close to the stitching line of any convex curves. Turn the stocking right side out, tease out the seams, then press. Repeat with the two white cotton stockings, clip and trim the curves, but do not turn out. Place the white cotton stocking inside the silk version, then level and match the seams and the top edges together.

4

Lay two of the white cuffs one on top of the other.

Set your sewing machine to a decorative stitch and form two rows one above the other, making the second a different stitch. Start the first row 2cm away from the long raw edge, then stitch the folded silk strip to this edge with a 1cm seam allowance.

5

Position the remaining white cotton cuff on top of the embroidered one. Pin along the silk strip edge, then stitch all the layers together, again with a 1cm seam allowance. Open out the cuff, then sew the shorter edges together, making it into a circle. Fold the single layer outside the embroidered face of the cuff, position it inside the top of the silk stocking, matching the seam allowance on the outer edge of the stocking.

6

At this point, slip a loop of ribbon between the stocking and the cuff for hanging. Pin, then stitch around with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance and fold the cuff over to the right side of the stocking. To finish, sew a ribbon bow to the base of the embroidered Christmas tree.

14

DOWNLOAD TEMPLATE ONLINE

Stitch it with Machine must-have

Price

ÂŁ349 Innov-is 27 Special Edition Decorate your stocking with ease, choosing from a total of 50 built-in stitches!

4 Electronic jog dial for simple stitch selection 4 Automatic needle threading system 4 Five styles of 1-step automatic buttonhole 4 Drop feed for free -motion sewing 4 Top-loading bobbin for easy threading

Discover this machine and other suitable models at brothersewing.co.uk 15

STITCH OUR CAROLE TOP you can do it!

MASTER KNIT FABRICS WITH THIS FLATTERING PULL-ON

GET STARTED k Stretch jersey

(1.3m wide), 1.5m

SIZES k S (8-10). M (10-12), L (12-14)

Knit fabrics can be daunting to sew, but with the right know-how, they are nothing to be scared of. Here, Lauren Guthrie shares her top tips for selecting needles depending on what fabric (or machine!) you choose to stitch Amanda Walker’s casual pull-on with. The top features a simple pleat detail and is perfect for everyday wear. Get ready to make up a few, because it’s about to become your mid-season staple!

CUTTING GUIDE

LAUREN GUTHRIE ADVISES ON NEEDLES FOR KNIT FABRICS

k Front and back:

cut one each on fold

k Sleeve: cut one pair (follow

black line for large size)

k Neckband: cut one

1cm seam allowance used throughout.

JERSEY NEEDLES These ballpoint needles push between the yarns of the fabric, preventing holes and laddering. Use size 70 for lightweight fabrics, 80 for medium and 90 for heavier ones.

SEW A PULL-ON

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use it to cut the pieces from jersey as indicated in the cutting guide.

Fold the inverted pleat at the neckline on the front piece, pin and sew across the top.

2

STRETCH NEEDLES Similar to jersey needles but with a slightly higher eye, this creates a bigger loop to allow for more stretch – making them ideal for stretchy active or swimwear fabrics.

Match the front and back shoulder seams right sides together, then pin and stitch.

Sew the ends of the neckband right sides together, to make a circle. Turn right out, fold in half lengthways and press.

3

Sandwich the front and back neckline in the band and sew, matching the join in the band to the centre back neck. The strip is smaller, so carefully stretch it to fit.

We used...

Blue and purple geometric poly lycra stretch jersey, £9.99 per metre, minerva crafts.com

4

Lay the front and back of the top out, right sides together. Pin the side seams, then stitch. Sew a row of gathering stitch using your machine around the head of the sleeve, from the front to the back notch.

5

Place each sleeve right sides together, then stitch.

Turn each of the sleeves right side out, pull the gathering threads up slightly, and

position the sleeve into the armhole of the top.

6

Match the side and underarm sleeve seams together, and the notch in the centre sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam. Adjust the

gathers to fit the armhole. Pin, sew, then remove all of the gathering stitches.

7

Overlock or use a zigzag stitch to finish the base of the garment and sleeve ends. Fold a 2cm hem, press, then sew.

16

OVERLOCK NEEDLES Universal needles can cause thread to snap on an overlocker. Overlock ones are longer and smoother above the eye on the back, so affect the thread’s tension.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN ONLINE

Stitch Stitch it withit with

Finish like a pro!

An overlocker will give your seams a professional finish. All of Brother’s overlockers (see right) have built-in carry handles, free-arm flat beds, F.A.S.T. lower looping threading systems, differential feeds, pressure control and other features to suit a wide range of fabrics!

Great home machine Price

£199

1034D

4 Trims, edges and neatens 4 Available both as 3 or 4-thread models 4 Removable knife

Fuss-free experience Price

£249

3034D

4 Sews seams, trims, and overlocks raw edges 43 or 4-thread sew-&-cut overlock stitches 4 Free arm flat bed surface 4 Thread twist protection

Award-winning model

Perfect for everyday!

Price

£369

4234D Turquoise marl knit

4 2, 3 or 4-thread stitches 4 Seams perfectly with numerous decorative effects 4 Built-in extra bright LED light 4 Automatic needle threader 4 Stitch length adjustment

Grey marl knit

Each of these fabrics costs £10.50 per metre, visit guthrie-ghani.co.uk

You can find out more about these overlocker models at brothersewing.co.uk 17

ENTER ONLINE AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/GIVEAWAYS

WIN A INNOV-IS F420

TO ENJOY A LIMITLESS STITCHING EXPERIENCE

Worth

£599!

WIN A DREAM MODEL!

THE BROTHER INNOV-IS F420 Whether you love making quilts and homewares or are a budding dressmaker looking to develop your handmade wardrobe, the Innov-is F420 promises to tick all boxes – and we’ve got one of the machines up for grabs. Suitable for beginners through to the more advanced, this model is user-friendly and ideal for newbie stitchers, but comes with lots of features – so it won’t hold you back as your skills progress. Don’t miss out on your chance to win!

KEY FEATURES: 3 140 built-in stitches 3 Automatic needle threader 3 S titch length and width control 3 Slide speed control

3 Large clear LCD screen 3C ombines and memorises stitches 3 Five uppercase fonts 3 10 buttonhole styles

The competition closes on 12/10/17. See the main magazine to enter via post and for full T&Cs.

Find this machine and more great models at brothersewing.co.uk 18

Stitch it with

MAKE Ayou QUILTcanTHISdoWEEKEND it!

STITCH UP A VIBRANT QUILT AND CUSHION TO SNUGGLE AWAY THE DAYS

Our delightful homeware duo combines colourful jewel shades with geometric prints. The Brother Innov-is NV1800Q is the perfect choice for quilting as it features extra work space, making large projects easier. Or, if you’re serious about getting even more features, maybe the Innov-is VQ2 is for you? Either one will help you stitch an incredible quilt and cushion set within a weekend! Keep for yourself or make as a special gift this Christmas, personalised by using a loved one’s favourite colours.

19

Find projects overleaf...

GET STARTED k Cotton fabric, fat quarters k Coordinating cotton thread k White cotton, 2m k Quilt wadding (4oz), 1.5m k Cushion pad, 45cm k Rotary cutter k Ruler

SIZES k Quilt: 112cm square k Cushion: 45cm square

“Using quality thread is something I strongly believe in, and I always use Gütermann.”

Lauren Guthrie

Quilting projects need to be sturdy, so invest in good threads to keep them together. If using cotton fabrics, a 100% cotton thread is often a good choice; this thread reaches a high breaking resistance, has reduced shrinkage and is ironing resistant too. If you’re making an heirloom project that will stand the test of time, Gütermann Creativ Extra Strong thread is a more durable option.

To find your nearest stockist, email gutermann@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

Have fun experimenting with different angled lines to make your own unique block design!

SEW A PATTERNED BLOCK

1

Create a template by drawing a 25.5cm square onto paper or card. Draw three vertical lines and three horizontal lines that are angled, so each one starts and finishes at different points opposite. to create a random jigsaw effect. Experiment with the lines until happy.

2

Cut several 2.5cm wide strips of fabric. Join the strips end to end to make a continuous length. Use this to edge the quilt top with an overlapped border.

3

Press the border. Lay out white cotton, place wadding on top and spread the quilt top over this, allowing at least a 3cm border of backing fabric around. Pin the layers and topstitch along the seams.

2

4

3

MAKE A CUSHION

Cut nine 25.5cm squares from different fabrics. Press each one, then stack together.

Place the template on top of the stacked fabrics and use it to cut along each line on the right side of the fabric, using a rotary cutter and ruler.

Once each of the nine squares is cut into nine pieces, lay them out and swap the sections so that each square is made up of nine different fabric prints. Sew the square back together by sewing along the angled lines. Press and cut each panel to measure 21.5cm square.

STITCH A QUILT

1

Make 18 patch blocks as described above, then select 13 of these to make the quilt. Cut twelve 21.5cm squares from plain fabric. Sew the blocks together in an alternating pattern, rotating some of the patterned blocks so the jigsaw effect appears differently, to make a 5 x 5 block quilt top.

20

Trim the wadding to the quilt edge, and backing fabric 3cm wider all around. Fold in 1cm of the backing fabric before folding over the edges of the quilt to enclose the raw edges. Mitre the corners.

Topstitch the binding close to the hemmed edge.

1

Arrange four blocks to your desired composition.

Sew together to make a 42cm square panel. Cut several 3cm wide strips of patterned fabric and stitch to the edges of the panel to make an overlapped border. Press, then pin it to quilt wadding. Topstitch along all seam lines.

2

Cut two 36cm x 46cm pieces of white fabric.

Fold and press a 2cm hem on one of the longer edges on each. Place the white fabric onto the cushion front, right sides together so the hemmed edges overlap. Stitch all around the cover, then turn right side out through the overlapping edges. Fit a 45cm cushion pad inside.

Stitch it with know your stuff

We used...

Fabrics from the Splendor collection

by Amy Butler for Free Spirit

If desired, you can omit the pad and stuff the cushion with fibre filling instead. This will allow you to determine how soft, plush or firm your finished pillow is!

Perfect all-rounder

Price

Innov-is NV1800Q

£1,299

Great for ANY project – quilting, fashion and more!

4 234 built-in stitches 4 Advanced needle threader 4 Automatic thread cutter 4 Large work space of 8.3” to the right of the needle 4 Sideways feed 4 Square Feed Drive System, ensuring smooth running 4 Comes with huge range of accessories, with numerous quilting feet and quilting guide

Tech savvy features

Price

Innov-is VQ2

£1,999

This long arm machine is perfect for sewing larger projects 4 Automatic electronic needle threading 4 473 built-in stitches 4 Up to 1,050 stitches per minute 4 Extra wide stitches up to 40mm 4 Plus, the ICAPS (Continuous Automatic Pressure System), which continuously detects fabric thickness while sewing, and automatically adjusts pressure to ensure even stitch quality – allowing you to combine a number of fabric types

Discover these machines and more great models at brothersewing.co.uk 21

works for us!

MEET THE DESIGNER-MAKERS WHO HAVE COME TO RELY ON THEIR BROTHER MACHINES

SEW & GROW

E

WA NIESCIEREWSKI is the dedicated maker who runs Mea Bee Design from a sunny corner in her lounge with the help of a computerised Brother FS-40.

I decided to focus on nursery decor. I realised then that I would need a machine with excellent features and as I had owned a Brother machine before, knew I could trust them. The FS-40 quickly won me over with its computerised power, extension table, start/stop button, and range of stitches that I could adjust.

“My Mea Bee Design products are purely dedicated to kids, so I offer Scandinavianinspired nursery decor, stylish monochrome cushions, bunting, baskets, quilts, bedding and more.

My personal favourites are the soft, smiley cushions – knowing that somewhere in the world little

“I have been sewing since I was a child. My grandmother was a very talented dressmaker and taught me how to sew.

I did take a break when I was a teenager, however, as sewing was not seen as a very cool thing to do.

It wasn’t until 2011 when I got married that I decided to start stitching again.

This was also when I decided to buy my first Brother sewing machine.

“I started my business in 2013, where I made decorative cushions, doorstops and handbags.

However, I wanted to do a lot more so in April 2015

“There will always be a Brother sewing machine in my life”

D

esigner ANGIE LAWRENCE and her Innov-is V5 make quite the team in the Isle of Man, where her business Cinnamon Crafts is based.

How long have you been sewing?

I find it hard to believe, but for more than 50 years! My parents bought me my first machine when they saw that I was sewing together a tweed suit by hand, using backstitch! It was then when they realised I was serious.

Why did you choose the Innovis V5?

It was recommended to me by Bamber Sewing Machines in Manchester, where I have been buying machines for nearly 20 years. My old machine went ‘pop’ in a storm and the insurance company was happy to replace it. When I realised I could have a Innov-is V5, there was no contest really!

boys and girls are cuddling them makes my job worthwhile.

“In terms of the future, I would love to expand my product range and start selling to independent small retailers. Without my Brother sewing machine I would not be where I am now, and it is staying with me to help me grow.”

22

What are the features you like most?

I love the fact that it is extremely easy to switch between sewing and embroidery modes, plus the easy connectivity between my laptop and the V5 is brilliant. I do a lot of appliqué and have recently also acquired a Brother ScanNCut CM900.

I am thrilled that appliqué outlines within a design can be changed to a ‘cut’ file that can be read by the ScanNCut. This means that when I am working on a large project, I can

Stitch it with

cut out all the shapes in one go. One of the ‘silly’ features I like is the little musical chord it plays at the end of a design; it always makes me smile.

What is your product range?

It's eclectic. I make all sorts of things!

My style ranges from traditional wedding designs to steampunk.

What are your plans for the future?

To explore new areas of machine embroidery. I also want to maintain the high standards I have set for Cinnamon Crafts and take on more commissions. Oh, and I suppose I should say that I intend to actually finish stuff! I have a big pile of UFOs (Unfinished Objects) stacked in my sewing room as a result of diving into new and unexplored designs.

How does your Brother sewing machine feature in your future?

One thing is for sure – there will always be a Brother sewing machine in my life. I have no doubt that my Innov-is V5 will last a long, long time but when she inevitably goes to that big Sewing Machine Centre in the sky, she will be replaced by another Brother.

“I ’d be lost without my Brother”

V

enture to Nottingham, where business And Sew It Seams is comprised of ANGI BROWN and three Brother sewing machines!

What machine do you use?

I use three different ones which complement each other. I have an

KEEP CALM AND SEW ON

L

UCY EVANGELISTA creates original designs using a Brother model for her newlylaunched business Grace James, located in Belfast.

“I taught myself to sew just over a year ago, and had my first order three weeks after using a sewing machine for the first time – that machine is the Brother FS60. Before I bought it I had watched a number of online videos and it seemed that other machine brands just added buttons and gadgets that were not necessary for a beginner.

The Brother machine didn't look complicated, and when I used it for the first time, I wasn’t disappointed.

“The quick set drop-in bobbin and drop feed mechanism make my life so much easier, especially when I had a two-year-old sitting on my knee while I was trying to work.

I am surprised it is still in one piece as I use it every day, and although I have made many mistakes, my FS60 keeps forgiving me and then we start all over again.

“Many of my orders are for quilted comfort blankets. I also make personalised 3D cushions, dressy baby bibs and rompers for special occasions. At the minute, I have my items stocked in a few local boutiques in Northern Ireland, but I would love to branch out.

“In the future I am planning on designing a sensory quiet book for children and hope to sell them through more retailers. I would also love to quilt, and have been eyeing up Brother’s Innov-is F420 model!”

Innovis-55 computerised sewing machine and a 1043D overlocker.

My latest addition is a dream: a PR655 embroidery machine.

is its flexibility to embroider bags, clothing and awkward shaped items that I could not do quite so easily on my previous machine.

Why the Brother PR655E? I already had a small entry-level 4x4 hoop-sized embroidery machine.

I quickly outgrew that and purchased a Brother V3 machine three months later when I realised that my work was getting more recognition and a domestic machine was not going to cut it. I just simply had to get the PR655 and I have not looked back; I love him – he is called Boris!

What do you make?

I sew and embroider a range of products including baby garments, quilts and workwear, but my medic alert key fobs are my best-selling product as they are unique to the customer, providing quick recognition of any medical condition should a problem arise.

What features do you love most?

My favourite is the six-needle embroidery, automatic needle threader, laser-light precision for lining up your work and multi frames for additional hoop capacity. If I were really pushed, I think the best feature

What do you love about your job?

I love the creativity that comes with designing bespoke items.

The ultimate plan is to retire so that I can sew and embroider full time. I would like to take more commissions for leisurewear, quilts and medic alert items as these do well, and so my goal draws closer!

Find the perfect sewing machine for your business at brothersewing.co.uk 23

Sewing Room H HH H H H STARS WE GIVE YOU THE LOW-DOWN ON THE BEST BROTHER MACHINES TO BUY, BASED ON YOUR SKILL LEVEL

What machine to buy? It’s a question that goes through every sewist’s head. When you first begin stitching, you might be tempted to get your hands on the cheapest model going. However, it’s important to do your homework before making any purchase, because as you gain experience and want to try out different techniques, you’ll likely require something a little more advanced. So, whether you’re a sewing novice or an expert stitcher, rest assured that the perfect machine is out there waiting to be discovered.

WIN AN INNOV-IS F420 ON PAGE 18!

Price

Price

INNOV-IS 15

£249

INNOV-IS F420

£599

FOR BEGINNER DRESSMAKERS...

FOR NEWBIES ON THE GO...

Take your dressmaking projects up a level with the F420, which has all the features you could ever desire. Plus, it’s user-friendly to boot! The square feed drive system makes it perfect for working with a variety of fabrics, from delicate silks through to sturdy denims.

If you’re new to sewing and or are on a limited budget, this is the machine of choice. It’s effortless to use, and the LCD screen makes it easy to see the stitch and width length. A reliable choice if you’re after the essentials or planning on taking it to a workshop.

KEY FEATURES: 3 140 stitches 3 Automatic 1-step buttonhole with 10 styles 3 Automatic needle threader and thread cutter 3 Quick-set bobbin 3 Drop feed 3 Stitch length and width control 3 Slide speed control 3 Large clear LCD screen 3 Combines and memorises stitches

KEY FEATURES: 3 16 stitches 3 Automatic 1-step buttonhole with three styles 3 Automatic needle threader 3 Quick-set bobbin 3 Drop feed 3 Stitch length and width control 3 Start/stop button 3 Slide speed control 3 LCD screen

Learn more about all of these machines, and find your local Brother stockist at brothersewing.co.uk 24

Stitch it with

Price

INNOV-IS VQ2

Price

£1,999

INNOV-IS V7

£4,499

FOR SERIOUS SEWISTS...

FOR SEWING GEEKS...

KEY FEATURES: 3 11.25” long-arm sewing and quilting machine 3 473 built-in stitches 3 14 styles of automatic 1-step buttonhole 3 Five lettering styles in upper and lower case 3 Large colour LCD touch screen 3 Up to 1,050 stitches per minute 3 Extra wide stitches up to 40mm 3 My Custom Stitch feature 3 Independent bobbin winder

KEY FEATURES: 3A n industry first! Brother’s exclusive direct dual drive foot; adjusts to fabrics and memorises settings 3 Extra large 11.25” long arm sewing space 3 Laser guide line marker 3U ltrasonic sensor for extra-precise embroidery 3 Embroidery foot with LED pointer 3C ontinuous automatic pressure system (ICAPS ) – detects fabric thickness and adapts stitches 3 LCD touch screen: customise designs on-screen

Create everything from coats to quilts as this top-of-therange machine offers an even wider sewing area to design and inspire. Express yourself with hundreds of stitches, including 14 styles of buttonholes and five built-in fonts.

You’ll be amazed at how much this model can do for you.

Create beautiful embroidery, quilting and home decor with this revolutionary dream machine for sewing enthusiasts. With an impressive range of 531 stitches, you’ll always be able to find the right one for your project.

It doesn’t get much better than this!

Learn more about all of these machines, and find your local Brother stockist at brothersewing.co.uk 25

MAKEyes UNISEX OVERALLS you can!

WHIP UP A FUN OUTFIT FOR A YOUNGSTER

Boys and girls alike will adore Torie Jayne’s fun dungarees, which are comfortable and durable enough for all kinds of boisterous activities. In addition to basic sewing techniques, this project also features pin tucks for added shaping, buttonhole fastenings, plus stretched elastic in the waistband to ensure a snug fit. Best of all, you can re-size the strap and shorts to make up another pair as your youngster grows older – in their favourite print, of course!

GET STARTED k Cotton fabric (115cm

wide), 1m k Interfacing, 50cm k Elastic (1.5cm wide), 16cm k Buttons, two

SIZES k To fit: ages two to four years

Note: lengthen straps and increase the front and back leg pieces at outer edge to re-size the shorts for a younger or older child, adjusting the waistband as necessary.

CUTTING GUIDE FROM COTTON k Front leg: cut two k Back leg: cut two k Front tabard: cut one k Back tabard: cut two k Front tabard lining: cut one k Strap: cut four k Front waistband: cut one k Back waistband: cut one FROM INTERFACING k Front tabard: cut one k Back tabard: cut one k Front tabard lining: cut one below fold line k Straps: cut two k Front waistband: cut one k Back waistband: cut one 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

SEW KID’S OVERALLS

1

Download and print the pattern templates from sewmag.co.uk/templates and snip the pieces according to the cutting guide. Press and stitch pin tucks in the front leg pieces where indicated on the pattern.

2

Sew the crotch seam on the two front leg pieces, right sides together. Repeat for the back legs. Stitch again, 6mm away from the seam allowance, between the notches. Trim close to the second stitching line, then press the remainder of the seam open. With right sides together, stitch the back to the front at the inner leg.

Sew the front leg to the back leg at the side seams to make shorts.

3

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the front tabard and the front tabard lining. Stitch both tabard pieces right sides together, leaving a gap for turning. Trim and clip the corners, turn right sides out, then press. Topstitch the front tabard, 6mm in from the edge, including the pressed top.

Mark the buttonholes on the top front tabard, then stitch.

4

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of each of the four strap pieces. Stitch in pairs, right sides together, leaving a large opening at the bottom.

Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance. Turn right side out, then press. Topstitch 6mm in from the edge.

5

Interface the wrong side of the back tabard. Sew both back tabard pieces at the side seams, right sides together, 1.5cm from the top edge. Insert the straps inside the top of the back tabard and

match up the raw edges at the top; the straps will overlap inside. Stitch the top of the back tabard. Turn out, then topstitch 6mm in from the edge.

6

With right sides together, tack the front tabard to the shorts at the front, aligning the pin tucks to the outer edges, centre front to centre front.

Tack the back tabard to the shorts at the back, aligning the centre back to the centre back.

7

Fuse interfacing to the reverse of the waistbands, then stitch them at the side seams, right sides together.

Press under 1.5cm on the bottom edge of the waistband, and trim the pressed-under edge to 1cm. Pin it to the upper edge of the shorts, right sides

26

together, matching the side seams. Stitch in place, and trim the seam allowances.

8

Press the waistband facing to the inside and topstitch the top edge. Zigzag strips of stretched elastic onto the waistband facing, between the front and back tabard, just below the topstitching at the sides.

9

Stitch the pressed-under waistband to the shorts, along the lower edge, stretching the elastic as you stitch it down.

Turn under the lower edge by 1cm to the inside of the shorts and press. Turn under a further 2cm, press and stitch. Mark the placements of the buttons on the shoulder straps and hand stitch in place.

DOWNLOAD PATTERN ONLINE

Stitch Stitch it withit with

Yes, Yoshie!

Packed with features!

Featuring woodland creatures and wild flowers in dark blue, Liberty’s much-loved Yoshie print is a perfect choice for concealing scuffs and marks from playing! £22.50 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

Price

£399 Innov-is 35 If you’re looking to upgrade from a beginner’s machine, this model offers fantastic versatility.

4 Easy to use electronic jog dial, making stitch selection simple 4 A total of 70 built-in stitches 4 Back-lit LCD screen with digital stitch length and width controls 4 Advanced automatic needle threading system 4 Seven styles of 1-step automatic buttonhole

Discover this machine and more suitable models at brothersewing.co.uk 27

WHIP UP OUR FOXY SET make all three!

GET STARTED k Plain cotton, orange,

blue, lemon, white k White lace k Patterned fabric, floral, orange k Pale green herringbone ribbon, 44cm k White cord, 1.2m k Thread, orange, dark orange, navy, black, white k Toy stuffing k Iron-on interfacing k Cushion pad, 32cm x 42cm k Embroidery hoop k White tissue paper

SIZES k Toy sack: 30.5cm x 43cm k Cushion: 32cm x 42cm k Toy: 15cm x 21cm (incl. tail)

BE CUNNING AND DEVELOP YOUR SKILLS

Young fans of Roald Dahl’s Fantastic Mr Fox will adore this fun collection, featuring a bright cushion for the bedroom, plus a cute stuffed toy with a handy sack to store him in, along with any playthings needing a home. Sewn from vibrant orange, cornflower blue and lemon fabrics, combined with an equally eye-catching cotton print, this set would make a lovely gift and provides the opportunity to practise your appliqué and decorative machine stitch skills.

FASHION A TOY SACK

1

of the lemon section and stitch just inside the fabric edge. Sew the tail, throat and stomach, then press.

Download and print the templates at sewmag .co.uk/templates. Cut 15cm x 43cm of blue fabric, 19cm x 43cm of lemon material and 27cm x 43cm of a floral print. Join all three together as shown, leaving a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seams open.

3

Use the template to snip a fox from orange fabric, and back with iron-on interfacing. Cut the throat and stomach from orange patterned fabric and the tail end from white, adding interfacing to all three. Pin the fox to the middle

4

2

Cut small motifs like flowers and butterflies from the printed fabric and stitch as shown. Stitch a length of pale green ribbon across the width of the blue fabric, 3cm under the join. Press the reverse before machine or hand stitching ’favourite Mr fox’.

Cut a back for the bag from blue fabric, the same size as the front. Pin right sides together, then stitch across the bottom and up both sides, leaving a 1.5cm gap at the top of each side and 3cm from the top edge. Trim any excess fabric at the corners and turn right side out.

5

Fold the top raw edge over to the inside by 1cm, then again by 1cm. Stitch around the sack, 1.5cm from the top. Make sure that the gap for the pull cord remains unstitched. Thread one end of the cord through the gap, around the bag and back out of the same hole. Trap the raw ends in a piece of folded patterned fabric and stitch around to secure.

APPLIQUE A CUSHION

1

Trim a 34cm x 44cm piece of plain blue fabric.

Cut a section of floral fabric at an angle to fit across the bottom right-hand corner. Back with interfacing, pin, then press. Stitch across the top, then press on the reverse.

2

Use the template to cut out two large fox pieces from orange fabric, the throat and tail sections in white, and the chest from patterned orange fabric.

Back them all with interfacing and cut an extra tail section from white lace. Pin in place and machine or hand stitch, roughly 3mm from the edge, then press.

Add detail by sewing straight or zigzag lines onto the body and ears in orange and white thread, then work the nose and eye in black. Press.

3

Trace the words ’friendly fox’ from the template onto white tissue paper and pin in place. Keep the fabric taut in an embroidery hoop. Machine or hand stitch over the word twice in navy thread, and repeat for the second word. Remove the hoop, carefully tear away the tissue, and press.

4

Cut 34cm x 44cm of blue fabric for the cushion band pin to the finished front, right sides together. Starting at the bottom, stitch a 1cm seam around, leaving a large gap at the bottom. Trim any excess fabric, turn right side out, and push the pad into the cover.

28

DOWNLOAD TEMPLATES ONLINE

SEW A FOX TOY

1

Use the toy template to cut a body front and back in plain orange, then the middle section to cut the chest from white fabric.

Back the chest with interfacing and pin it on top of the orange front and stitch down both sides, close to the raw edge.

2

Cut a small rectangle patch from print fabric and sew it in the middle of the fox’s chest using a small zigzag stitch. Press.

Using the same trace and stitch technique for the cushion, stitch ‘my fox’ in navy thread, then remove the hoop and tissue.

Stitch the eye and nose in black, add detail to the face and ears with white and orange thread, then press.

3

Snip a front and back tail from orange fabric. Trim one tail tip from white fabric and another from lace. Pin and stitch the white fabric, followed by the lace, on top of the orange tail tip. Sew a line of zigzag stitch under the white tip, then press.

Stitch it with Perfect all-rounder

4

Pin the tail front to the plain orange back, right sides together. Sew a 5mm seam, stitching clockwise from A to B and leaving a gap. Clip carefully into the curves and turn right side out. Stuff, then hand stitch the gap closed.

5

Pin the finished body front to the back, right sides together, and sew a 5mm seam clockwise from A to B. Clip the curves, turn right side out, and stuff. Place the tail into the open gap and hand stitch in place, turning the raw edge of the body under as you go.

Price

£189 XR27NT This traditional model is ideal for home furnishings and dressmaking projects alike!

4 27 built-in stitches 4 Advanced needle threader 4 1-step buttonhole

yourknow littlun!

4 Quick-set bobbin 4 Stitch width/length adjustment 4 Drop feed

Have fun choosing fabrics that your youngster will love! You can find a selection of plain and patterned cotton fabrics plus other great fabric types, stuffing, thread and more at guthrie-ghani.co.uk

You can find this machine and browse other models at brothersewing.co.uk 29

FAIRY POCKET BAG

NEW LIFE EASTER BASKET

HOOP,

GOOD THINGS COME IN FOURS TABLE RUNNER

hoop HOORAY!

DISCOVER THE CRAFTIEST INNOVATION OF THE CENTURY

A

SAY HELLO TO JAMES THE GIRAFFE

nyone who thinks that sewing involves hunching over a needlepoint in a dimly-lit room are quite frankly, wrong! For every preconception someone might have about our favourite hobby, there is an exciting technique waiting to be discovered and enjoyed.

Allison Nash is the founder of Sweet Pea Designs, an Australian-based company that is passionate about in the hoop (ITH) embroidery. Whereas a lot of machine embroidery is usually carried out on a finished article, ITH projects are often partially constructed or made fully in a machine’s embroidery hoop. The biggest surprise about this technique is that you can create 3D objects – and at a much quicker pace than you ever could using standard methods.

CRAFTY DISCOVERY LADY AT THE BEACH MUG RUG

Allison came across the technique after she grew tired of embroidering towels and shirts. “I stumbled on the ITH method and was hooked! Unfortunately, the designs available were all quite similar, and mostly limited to smaller items or quilting,” she 30

starts. “I learned to sew when I was five and later on as I became an avid stitcher, wanted to make bags, quilts and gifts for my family and friends!” Allison knew how to draft sewing patterns so before long she decided to take this one step further by teaching herself how to digitise them.

Although time-consuming to learn, it led to the launch of Sweet Pea. Now, the business is famous for its ITH designs and the detailed, easy-to-follow instructions that come with them, which are accompanied by photos illustrating every step. “Our designs are created with the hobby sewer and quilter in mind,” she says. “Sweet Pea also allows stitchers to sell items made from its designs, so they can be found in gift stores and markets around the world.”

ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES

You may think that the term ‘in the hoop’ suggests the possibilities would be limited to smaller projects – however, that’s far from the case nowadays. “The kind of thing you can make is only limited by the designs available,” Allison explains. “At Sweet Pea, we have them for (wait for it!)... purses, bags, quilts, table runners and centres, toys, coasters, wall tidies and hangings, sewing kits, advent calendars, Christmas tree skirts, decorations, bibs, baskets, accessories, cutlery holders, place mats and so much more!” Larger items like quilts and bags are made using both embroidery and sewing machines, as blocks are made then

Stitch it with Embroidery star!

Price

SEWING TIDY

£899 Innov-is F440E Use this feature-packed embroidery machine to create stunning designs 4 138 built-in designs 4 Advanced needle threader

appliquéd or embroidered onto with an embroidery machine. You may be thinking, how are 3D objects assembled? If making a toy for instance, the machine will stitch the template straight onto the fabric for you, embroider any facial features, plus appliqué pieces from other fabrics. After placing your backing fabric right sides together, the machine will stitch the pieces and leave a gap for turning. All you need to do is stuff!

Sweet Pea also prides itself on its links with various charities, and releases designs from which all profits are donated. “So far we have purchased 13 water pumps through Unicef for communities in third world countries. Each one provides water for about 5,000 people,” Allison elaborates. “We’ve also donated four sets of classroom furniture through World Vision, with proceeds from our Worry Monster purse. We will release even more of these designs in the future!”

members who are all willing to help.” With all the possibilities, you don’t ever have to be restricted. Many ITH designs use quiltingweight cotton but any fabric can be used, even imitation leather or suede! Just be sure to test a small sample first. “There are two types of threads that cover most machine embroidery needs, rayon and polyester.

Both are versatile and designed for different uses,” Allison tells us.

“Rayon has a beautiful sheen and is great for embroideries, but the thread tends to be more delicate than polyester ones. Polyester thread is stronger and suitable for all general machine embroidery and appliqué.

“Here at Sweet Pea, we use all Brother embroidery machines! ”

TRY FOR YOURSELF

If you enjoy sewing, have an embroidery machine, or are simply looking to be inspired by something new – this could be the technique for you! In fact, it’s a much quicker way of creating a unique piece from scratch. In terms of the right tools, look for an embroidery or combination machine where a hooping or framing system is included. “Before purchasing a machine I did a lot of research and found that Brother produce reliable and easy to use models,” Allison tells Sew. “Here at Sweet Pea, we only use all Brother embroidery machines.” As for getting started, your best bet is to download a free design like the fox zipper purse, designed by Sweet Pea and FREE exclusively to Sew readers. “This design will teach you how to insert a zipper in the hoop, do appliqué and create a gorgeous little purse. The instructions are very detailed,” she continues. “We also have a Facebook group with nearly 30,000

GROWING COMMUNITY

One of the best parts about sewing is undoubtedly the community that goes with it. Many of Sweet Pea’s customers are active on its Facebook group, and actively share what they have been making, along with their tips. “It’s a great way to see our projects and we also host regular competitions and sew-alongs with thousands of people joining each month!”

Allison says. “Our large online community is a real point of difference for Sweet Pea.” If this online following isn’t a sign that ITH embroidery is on the up, then what is? With more embroidery machines and hoop features available than ever before, and the designs to go with it, it’s evident that the technique is resonating with stitchers from all over the world – in over 35 countries for Sweet Pea. “With the range of designs now available, it is possible to sew almost anything in the hoop,” she finishes. “With the help of an embroidery machine, a stunning tote bag can be made in only a few hours, whilst a quilt — which could possibly take months, or even years to sew — takes only days.”

FEELING INSPIRED? BE SURE TO PAY A VISIT TO SWPEA.COM 31

4 Quick-set bobbin and winder 4 Automatic thread cutter 4 Import designs via the built-in USB port 4 On-screen editing, including lettering, enhanced zoom, re-sizing, rotating, repositioning and combining designs

Find this machine and more great models at brothersewing.co.uk

YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD! FOX PURSE

Get your FREE design for this cute fox zipper purse with the code SWEETFOX. The purse is fully lined with no raw seams, and can be made in a 4x4 or 5x5 hoop! Simply enter the code at the checkout.

Visit tinyurl.com/sweetfoxpurse Valid until 31.12.17

TRUE REVIEW

Carolyn Letten is one of the Sew team’s most talented designers, who has particular expertise in the field of embroidery!

Here, she took one of Brother’s machines for a test-drive...

“The NV2600 comes with a wide range of accessories, so I got to work exploring them with the machine embroidery pattern features in mind – of which there are 51, a further 55 patterns (exclusive to Brother), a floral alphabet, plus various fonts – which can all be combined and manipulated. The removable embroidery unit on the machine can replace the standard sewing arm and works with a plastic embroidery frame (large and medium sizes supplied), which slides into the arm and locks into position. There is also an embroidery foot attachment!

INNOV-IS NV2600 TRIED AND TRUSTED WITH DESIGNER CAROLYN LETTEN!

Price

£1,999

1

Appliqué function

“For this lovely hoop design, I chose a leaf embroidery pattern that used appliqué; you simply select the leaf on-screen then continue to the embroidery screen.

With the stabilised fabric in the plastic frame, you press the start/stop button and it will sew a cutting line of the appliqué piece, and then stop. I removed the fabric, cut the leaf along the stitch line, and used it as a template to cut out 12 more – you do need to be very accurate with this.

“To create a wreath effect, I created 12 leaves on the screen – rotating, moving and flipping each one into my desired position, working anti-clockwise from the top. I continued to the embroidery screen and again starting at the top and moving anti-clockwise, worked one leaf at a time.

The machine first sews an outline of each leaf then stops to allow you to stick each appliqué leaf (the ones I had cut earlier) exactly within that stitched line. After, it sews the appliqué leaf down, then adds detail with satin stitch. I then removed the frame from the unit, took out the fabric and mounted it into my wooden hoop.

“To create the five 3D leaves, I backed the patterned green fabric with craftweight interfacing before inserting it into the plastic frame, then stitched each leaf – allowing the machine to complete the

“I was delighted with the 3D effect I was able to achieve with the appliqué function. It was very easy to use! ” Carolyn Letten

steps again. I carefully cut each leaf up to the satin stitch line and folded it in half to create a sharp crease, then handstitched in place.

The butterflies, which are an exclusive Brother design, were made in the same way as the leaves were earlier.

I altered the size of the orange one on-screen to make it smaller, and also made a second set of wings in lilac for the purple butterfly by making them slightly bigger on screen, only allowing the machine to stitch the first step rather than the entire design – which was very useful! I then stitched these in place by hand on top of the leaf wreath at different angles to complete the design.”

32

Stitch it with

Multiple fabrics “Here, I wanted to experiment and see how well a design would stitch onto two different textured fabrics. I used needle cord and stretch velour. Due to the nature of the fabrics, I chose to place a piece of paper underneath the fabric while I stitched, as iron-on interfacing wasn’t an option for the stretch velour. I deliberately chose the finely detailed feather design for this picture, which takes about 8 minutes to sew. I also flipped one feather so it was a mirror image and rotated it on screen, where you can choose to rotate by 1, 10 or 90 degrees... Making it super-easy to achieve the intended result. You can also zoom in by up to 300%.”

CONCLUSION...

2

“The Innovis NV2600 was a delight to use with so many features, bearing in mind that I’ve demonstrated only some of the embroidery features! There is also a vast collection of utility and decorative stitches, plus a free-machine quilting feature. You can use the patterns straight from the machine or let your imagination run riot by editing them to make your own or creating designs by combining multiple patterns. You can also store custom stitches and patterns in the machine’s memory, which holds around 1MB… Or even onto a flash drive, to build up your own library of designs.

Even stitch density

“This is a water lily embroidery pattern, straight from the machine. I used a dark turquoise satin fabric to see how the stitch density would perform on a dark background, but also to find out how well it coped with fine, silky fabrics – and whether they puckered! After placing the fabric in the smaller plastic frame and pulling it very taut before tightening, I locked it in place on the unit. When embroidering on thinner fabrics, the manual advises using a water-soluble fabric to stabilise it underneath, or a normal fabric stabiliser without fusing it.

In my opinion, you should always interface fabrics that will be stitched in the frame, as it produces a more professional result.

“The machine allows you to choose where within the frame you would like to stitch the chosen motif… As this was going to be mounted into a hoop I started in the middle. The enclosed design guide explained that there were 13 different colour changes and how it would take roughly 20 minutes to complete. It also indicated the finished size: 82.7mm high x 85.3mm wide.

As you start to stitch, each step with a colour change is counted down to on the LCD screen; at the end of each colour change the machine automatically cuts the thread! Once you replace each spool, it will also thread the needle for you – or you can choose to do it manually. I hadn’t realised that the bobbin thread underneath was getting low but the machine gave an advanced warning that it was running out, giving me a chance to refill it before the next colour change, which is very useful!”

INNOV-IS NV2600

Other fab features

GREAT LIGHTING The machine was lit very well, and the standard sewing light above the needle allowed for easy vision. It also has a light on the underside to the right of the needle which is a real bonus when shadows are cast.

HANDY GUIDE I was keen to get started without having to digest the comprehensive operation manual, so the quick reference guide enclosed was a great way to get to know everything the machine covers!

EMBROIDERY GUIDE This useful booklet details all of the designs supplied, along with times to allow for each pattern, plus the number of steps/thread colour changes and suggested thread colours.

LCD SCREEN It was very easy to navigate and use, guiding you through every step and menu.

There was no need to use the foot pedal when sewing the preprogrammed embroidery motifs, as the start/stop function is achieved by pressing one button.

Find out more about the Innov-is NV2600 at brothersewing.co.uk 33

* SEW17 valid for Sew readers from 22/08/17 to 21/09/17. CB17 valid for Crafts Beautiful readers from 14/9/17 to 12/10/17. Offer valid on full-priced fabric only.

Get 10% off*

FABRICS AT GUTHRIE & GHANI WITH THE CODE SEW17 OR CB17 guthrie-ghani.co.uk

In the studio with…

LAUREN GUTHRIE

OUR GUEST EDITOR REFLECTS ON WHY IN HER STUDIO, BROTHER IS ALWAYS BEST When you host as many sewing and dressmaking workshops as we do at Guthrie & Ghani HQ, it’s important to have tools that you can rely on.

We teach a huge range of classes, suitable from complete beginners to more advanced garment making and pattern drafting – so our Brother sewing machines have to cope with everyday use and a lot of different fabric types too. Everything gets put through our machines, from lightweight cotton lawn and stretch jerseys to thick upholstery fabric and sturdy denims.

In the past we’ve used the Innov-is NV1300, Innov-is 350 Special Edition, and Innov-is 100 Prime Edition, which have all served us incredibly well.

The models we currently use in our studio are the Innov-is F420, which we’ve just swapped to. Quite often, our students can feel apprehensive about how sophisticated the machines look, but once they realise how simple they are to operate and that the different functions make them a breeze to use — like the needle threader — it’s all uphill. The buttonhole function can seem a bit scary at first. With a quick demonstration though, students quickly realise that as a 1-step feature it is satisfying to sew, and also that the machine does most of the work for you!

The learn-to-sew trend certainly hasn’t been slowing down for us.

We have such a beautiful studio to work in, people often return for more workshops. It’s such a lovely day out and a way to get some quality, uninterrupted sewing time! Our workshop calendar is constantly evolving and changing as we move with different trends and listen to our customers, so that we can provide exactly what they are asking for.

Most of the time, I use my sewing machine to make clothes for my daughter and myself. I wear at least one thing I’ve made every day, so have sewn lots of different garments over the years. I’m most proud of the skinny jeans I made recently, which have lots of topstitching – that was so satisfying to do! And also my winter coat, where I used a beautiful warm, cosy wool. It’s fully lined and has bound buttonholes too, so I had a lot of fun making it! I use our Brother machines to make other items for my house as well. I’ve recently made blinds using a specially coated blackout fabric. In the past I’ve made lots of cushion covers and quilts too.

My top three tips for looking after your sewing machine is to always use the correct needle for your fabric and project, to only use good quality

thread, and to store it safely and keep all of the tools and accessories together so you can easily (and correctly!) lift up the plate if the thread jams. Also, if your love affair with dressmaking is SimFlex expanding taking off, my favourite sewing gauge, £22, thing right now is the expanding sewing gauge guthrie-ghani.co.uk

by SimFlex. It can be tricky following buttonhole markings on patterns once you have constructed your garment, which can lead to inaccuracies, but this will evenly mark them for you! You won’t look back.

Sewing is something that I get so much pleasure and enjoyment from, so I just love being able to inspire and see that in others too. Quite often people are surprised at what they have achieved and are so chuffed with their finished project, and that’s lovely to see and share with them.

Feeling inspired and want to find out more about Brother? Visit brothersewing.co.uk 34

g 2, uk

Space to create With an extra-large 210mm (8.3�) of working space to the right of the needle any quilting or large sewing project can be handled easily.

Our Square Feed Drive System (SFDS) ensures smooth uniform handling on all types of fabric. Packed with useful features and a huge variety of stitches, Brothers new long-arm range is the ideal choice.

1100 A powerful and versatile machine to meet demanding sewing needs from dress making to quilting. Includes 140 stitches, 10 button hole styles, 5 lettering styles and an automatic thread cutter.

1300 Includes all the great features of the 1100 plus 182 stitches, upper and lower case lettering, fully automatic thread tension and multi-directional sewing for large decorative stitches.

1800Q Includes an extra large wide table, 232 stitches as well as our ICAPs system to ensure uniform stitching across varying fabric thicknesses, and the useful pivot function allowing the fabric to be turned while the needle is down

brothersewing.co.uk

with the

Being great just got easier With the new Innov-is XV everything’s easier, faster and more intuitive than ever.

Create large projects easily with our largest embroidery area. Convert scanned images to embroidery data in just a few seconds without any extra software or a computer.

Add stippling embroidery where you like.

Draw it

Scan it

Convert it

Stitch it

This is the machine on which you’ll perfect your skills and turn your dreams into reality.

www.brothersewing.co.uk