A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS
1/2020
IN THIS ISSUE Team’s long journey into the promised land
Green green grass of UEFA EURO 2020 Page 10
Strawberry fields and apple thieves Page 14
Iconic images in the modern world – stories of images live within us Page 22
A column by Tommi Kinnunen
please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!
Hitched to hotels Page 28
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ELMOSPORTBISTRO
KALLION SÄVEL - HÄMEENTIE 2 TÖÖLÖN SÄVEL - RUNEBERGINKATU 40 KANTSUN SÄVEL - KANTELETTARENTIE 1
CONTENTS Welcome to the Metropolitan area 8 Green green grass of UEFA EURO 2020 10 Strawberry fields and apple thieves 14 Map of metropolitan area 16 Hotels & hostels providing Metropolitan Times 18 Reading the Finnish mind 20 Iconic images in the modern world – stories of images live within us 22 Into the woods and out to the sea 26 Hitched to hotels – A column by Tommi Kinnunen 28
Metropolitan Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 1/2020 "Summer" www.metropolitantimes.fi ISSN 2489-2688 (print) ISSN 2669-8277 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland
Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216
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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy
Cover Esplanade Park. Photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Marketing Bassline festival. Photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Marketing Helsinki University Think Corner. Photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Marketing St Johns Church. Photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Marketing Tommi Kinnunen. Photo: Suvi-Tuuli Kankaanpää
Metropolitan Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: m.metropolitantimes.fi. Metropolitan Times is available in selected hotel and hostel rooms and lobbies in Espoo-Helsinki-Vantaa metropolitan area (see pages 16–17 and 18). Next Metropolitan Times issue is out in October 2020. 6
OLD TOYS & FRESH CAKES Welcome to the Toy Museum and Café Samovarbar in the sea fortress Suomenlinna, Helsinki. The Toy Museum presents a private collection of antique and vintage toys (1830-1980). The museum is located on the ground floor of a wooden villa built in 1911. There is a charming little Café Samovarbar and a Museum Shop in the Toy Museum. www.lelumuseo.fi
Metropolitan Times 2020.indd 1
3/2/2020 1:28:25 PM
Experience Suomenlinna!
Joining a guided tour is a great way to see the fortress. Guided tours: Summertime every day 1st June – 31st August In English / In Swedish / In Russian / In Finnish Timetables: www.suomenlinnatours.com
Visit Suomenlinna Museum and Ehrensvärd Museum. www.suomenlinnatours.com
photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Marketing
ESPOO
HELSINKI
VANTAA
Welcome to the Metropolitan area
photo: Olli Urpela
Urban culture and experiences in nature Located just a metro ride away, Espoo is a vital city, offering each and every one interesting things to see and experience. Espoo has a lot to offer for those craving culture: visit a fascinating museum in Exhibition Centre WeeGee or participate in one of our city’s many events. In 2018 Espoo was named Travel Region of the Year in Finland. Large natural areas are characteristic of Espoo: seashores, the archipelago, the wilderness in nature reserves and the waterways of the lake highlands. The cultural landscapes, constructed environments and natural areas of Espoo are like Finland in miniature. Espoo has twice been ranked as the most sustainable city in Europe. We have also been invited to act as one of the pioneering cities implementing the UN’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, in cooperation with Aalto University and companies. In June 2018, we won the Intelligent Community of the Year award. These achievements show that our hard work to build a sustainable future is bearing fruit. We want to ensure that our city will grow in a manner that will provide future generations with equal or better living conditions than those enjoyed by us. Welcome to Espoo! Jukka Mäkelä
photo: Jetro Stavén
photo: Sakari Manninen
Dear reader
Vantaa – wonderful and fun
You've made an excellent decision in coming to Helsinki! Well, I'm the city's mayor, so I would say that, wouldn't I? But indeed, I can back up my statements of Helsinki's excellence with statistics and ratings: During the last couple of years, Helsinki has reached a new level regarding the number of visitors – both leisure and business. And should you wish to stay longer, you might be pleased to hear that we rank #1 in rankings that measure quality of life, satisfaction with the place people live in, as well as honesty – just to name a few. Helsinki is a compact, fun city, where modern urban life meets a beautiful, diverse environment. Helsinki lives and breathes throughout every season of the year. But don't take just my word for it. We believe that locals are the best guides to a city. While we sadly can't assign a personal local for each visitor, as the tech-savvy people we are, we have collected all the best local guides into one service: myhelsinki.fi. It's available in English, Finnish, Swedish, Russian, Japanese and German. Now go and follow in the footsteps of the locals! The strategy of our city begins with the words "Helsinki is for a good life". We don't mean that just for residents, we mean it also for all visitors and other new friends. I hope to see you back soon.
Vantaa is the fourth largest city in Finland – and there’s always many ways to spend a cheerful day! Finnish Science Centre Heureka is an incredible around-the-year attraction for people of all ages. While in Tikkurila, be sure to pay a visit to Vantaa City Museum, situated in the old railway station building. If you find yourself in Myyrmäki, Vantaa Art Museum Artsi’s exhibitions are always an experience with a big E. As is appropriate for a city of culture such as Vantaa, admission to both the museums is free. Vantaa events include the Dance Weeks, the biggest Middle Ages event in the metropolis, as well as memorable music festivals and sports events. Welcome to visit, for instance, Tikkurila Festival, Iskelmä Myyrmäki Festival or the cricket world cup preliminaries. Vantaa’s streetscape is filled with color: people, street art and nature. Vantaa smells like Kuusijärvi’s smoke saunas, Sipoonkorpi national park’s forests or delicacies like Fazer’s sweets and confectioneries. You can really experience the tastes of Vantaa on Vantaa Day, May 15, when restaurants all over the city will be launching their Vantaa menus. Welcome to experience Vantaa with all your senses!
Jan Vapaavuori
Ritva Viljanen
Mayor of Helsinki
Mayor of Vantaa
Mayor of Espoo
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photo: Markku Ulander / Lehtikuva
Teemu Pukki of Finland (10) celebrates with team mates his equalizing 1-1 goal during the men's football UEFA Euro 2020 European Championships qualifying match Finland vs Italy in Tampere in September 2019.
TEAM’S LONG JOURNEY INTO THE PROMISED LAND
Green green grass of
UEFA EURO 2020
T
Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho
November 15th 2019 may have been a small day for
mankind, but it was a giant
leap for Finland. On that day the Finnish national football team ensured its place in
the UEFA Euro 2020 by
defeating Liechtenstein 3-0 in a home match. It was a miracle equalling to Lordi’s Eurovision Song Contest win in 2006 and Finland’s first Ice Hockey
World Championship in 1995.
he road to the promised land had been long and rocky for the ”Eagle Owls”, The Finnish Men’s Football Team. (It is important to remember that the cause for concern in Finnish sports has for decades been the men’s national football team, the women’s team has made it to the European games several times; in 2005 they even took the divided third place). Yet the very beginning of that road was promising for men as well. The national football team took part in the Olympics of 1912 in Stockholm and made it to the semi-finals by defeating such countries as Russia and Italy. At the time Finland was the Grand Duchy of Russia, so victory over the suppressing mother nation was especially sweet. An indication of what was to come was seen in the 9-0 loss against Holland after a somewhat decent 0-4 result against England. In a bronze medal game the entire Finnish team was tired, and according to a legend, also suffering a hangover. The next century was marked by more and more bitter, even humiliating defeats. Finland could but envy and observe the success of Sweden, Denmark and Norway. Even tiny Iceland has had its moments of glory in the eyes of the world. A sign of these desperate times can be seen in a 1977 Finnish Football yearbook, where Kai Haaskivi’s goal against Italy is touted. The fact that Italy scored six goals against Finland in that match was left to lesser attention. 10
photo: Unknown / Official Olympic Report
Finnish national football team in the 1912 Stockholm Olympic Games.
THE INCREDIBLE CHANGE WAS EXPLAINED BY THE
Finnish football team did take part in Helsinki Olympic Games of FUNCTIONAL PLAYSTYLE, THE IMPROVED SELF1952 as well as Moscow in 1980. Yet the value of these achievements ESTEEM AFTER THE WINS IN NATIONS LEAGUE is somewhat diminished by the fact that as the hosts we qualified automatically to the first event and the widespread boycott towards AND OF COURSE BY TEEMU PUKKI. the latter improved our odds remarkably. There was hardly any success, in Helsinki Finland dropped out during the first round and among others, the 2004 European Champion Greece. The incredible in Moscow during the group stages. change was explained by the functional playstyle, the improved It is a fact generally acknowledged that the genuine tournaments self-esteem after the wins in Nations League and of course by Teemu of substance are the European Championship and the World Cup, Pukki who was the fifth best striker of the whole qualifying round where the Finnish team’s chances have usually been that of a snowball with his 10 goals (out of Finland’s 16 goals). Pukki was also the best in hell, despite the bittersweet fact that a couple of times striker in England’s Championship League in the season we have been close to the dream becoming true. 2018–2019. Last January Pukki, who is now Premier In 1997 Finland was already on its way to the league player of Norwich, was elected the Finnish last round of World Cup qualifying games, but Athlete of the Year in 2019. an over-time own goal silenced the crowds Although the rise of the National Football at the Olympic Stadium in Helsinki and team may seem like an incredible dream, sent Hungary forward. In 2007 against yet it is a logical step in the change of Portugal Finland was only one goal Finnish society and sports as a whole. short to ensure its place in European For a long time Finnish narrative had Championship tournament. One been an epic telling of the achievements precious goal that never came. of the lone and silent heroes. Then In the past sources of joy for the came the teams, collaboration and team Finnish football fans were mostly some players. First ice hockey, then basketball lone and successful individuals. For and volleyball, finally football. example, Jari Litmanen and Sami Hyypiä What is going to happen to Finland in the were world-class players and their success in European Championship games? Many think European leagues shed light on Finnish football, that the biggest accomplishment is just to be there but even their input in the national team was and that our chances against Denmark and The Finnish players celebrate a goal in the UEFA Women’s Euro qualification match never enough. Russia are extremely slim, let alone Belgium. against Albania in Vaasa in October 2019. In the previous World Cup qualifying Maybe so, but the history of football is full of photo: Timo Aalto / Lehtikuva games Finland qualified fifth in its group, next miracle stories about victorious underdogs to last, and got a mere nine points in ten games. The miserable outcome with no prior pressure or expectations whatsoever. A prime example caused Finland to drop below all other Nordic countries and even is Iceland in the previous European Championship games. Iceland Faroe Islands in FIFA ranking (in 2017 Faroe Islands had a population made it’s way to the quarterfinals and unhorsed the mighty England of 49 920, which means that during a major influenza epidemic they with 2-1 (match which was played four days after the Brexit vote, would have problems to even assemble a team). After that disaster which perhaps explains the English team’s total confusion). Being only the most devoted optimists had faith in Finland’s chances in the runner up suits Finland. Let’s not forget the Winter War or our the European Championships, despite the fact that qualifying in 2019 winning Ice Hockey World Championships team, a team that European Championships is much easier than in World Cup. was considered to be the worst in history by many sports writers Then everything changed. Markku Kanerva became the head before the games. s coach and Finland started winning. The success in the Nations League LAST MINUTE INFORMATION: (winner in their group) was followed by UEFA Euro qualifying games, UEFA has postponed Euro Championships until 2021. where Finland was second in their group after Italy. Left behind was, 11
UP?
WHY ALWAYS GO
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BEAUTIFUL LAKE SCENERY, RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE – AND SPACE TO BREATHE.
WELCOME TO LAKE TUUSULA!
An hour bus drive from Helsinki to Lohja and you will experience the land of miners, where darkness and light combine to create experiences you’ll encounter nowhere else.
A great DAY TRIP destination: Only 30 minutes from Helsinki main railway station and 15 minutes from the airport!
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THE OLDEST SOUVENIR SHOP IN HELSINKI OPPOSITE THE TEMPPELIAUKIO CHURCH
– Since 1980 –
ANNE’S SHOP Fredrikinkatu 68, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 445 823 OPEN EVERY DAY 9–18 (winter 9–17) facebook.com/Annensoppi
Knitwear
Finnish knives
Reindeer hides
Handicrafts
Målerås crystal
Souvenirs
Strawberry Fields Written by Kari Tuomi
What do Finns eat during high summer and early autumn? Besides the usual,
new potatoes, cauliflower, French beans,
broccoli, salads and smoked fish, there are
T
he strawberries are available everywhere from Midsummer to late July. The season is not very long and it ends as suddenly as it began. Finnish Strawberries are sweeter and smaller than the varieties you might know, so it’s really worth tasting them. Unless you are reading this in August, when they have gone. Or become too expensive to buy. New potatoes and their popularity in Finland is somewhat of a puzzle. The French would hardly describe them as the ”delicacy worthy of best asparagus”, but that’s exactly what they say of new potatoes in Finland. The traditional diet of millions of Finns from 1960’s through 1980’s was potatoes with a simple meat sauce. I belong to a generation extremely bored of the tuber during rest of the year, but the appearance of those small beautiful potatoes at Midsummer is still a miracle. It’s all about how long you cook them and what you eat them with. Start with a dab of fresh butter and lots of fragrant local dill in the cooking water. Plain ordinary fresh peas are a popular vegetable, which is eaten in an unordinary way. Finns enjoy them uncooked, straight from the pod. We are one of the few nations in the world that enjoy sweet peas without cooking. Remember to pay attention to the technique! You can do everything with your lips, teeth, thumbs, using one hand or two hands. Advanced pea-eaters can casually eat hundreds of peas in a minute, without even looking at the vegetable. An art in itself.
many hugely popular local sweet delicacies. Colourful berries are always a favourite,
especially the different varieties of open
field strawberries and small blue bilberries from the forests. They are sweet yet healthy and highly tongue staining.
ADVANCED
PEA-EATERS
CAN CASUALLY EAT
HUNDREDS OF PEAS IN A MINUTE, WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT
All photos: Envato
THE VEGETABLE.
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and Apple Thieves Wild mushrooms slowly start to come out during summer months goodies, including berries, rot in the forests every year. A fact our (after a brief appearance of False morels in the late spring) and the media is keen to remind us about every autumn: we have become lazy. season peaks during autumn. Just like grapes, we are at the mercy of weather, dry weather being less than ideal, rain The first delicious heirloom apples appear a bit better. Finns talk about good bilberry years, during early autumn. You cannot find any in FINNS TALK ABOUT good lingonberry years and good mushrooms your local supermarket and the best ones are GOOD BILBERRY YEARS, vintages just like any serious wine producer. never sold at the market place either. You need One thing tourists are always amazed at is the to go to your own garden or “borrow” some from GOOD LINGONBERRY act of mushrooming itself. There’s nothing to it. your neighbours overhanging branches. The YEARS AND GOOD You can just step into any forest and pick some. varieties have been around for centuries and MUSHROOMS VINTAGES No training required, no licences or permits from some of the most succulent ones are only found JUST LIKE ANY SERIOUS the landowner. You need a basic knowledge of here in Finland. On a really warm summer, the WINE PRODUCER. the poisonous mushrooms (most people use a abundance of juicy apples can be amazing. reverse tactic and know the three tastiest types) The taste of these local fruit can be so unique and an hour or two. On a good mushroom year, and deeply tied to your childhood memories, that it’s amazing what you can find in half an hour. Bucketloads of funnel finding a substitute abroad is practically impossible. Of all the foods chanterelles or ceps. Believe me, there can be such a thing as too many a Finn might miss abroad: rye bread, salty liquorice or pea soup, mushrooms to pick. Hundreds millions of euro’s worth of nature’s apples can be the most difficult ones to substitute. s
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A MAP IN YOUR POCKET
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Hotels providing Metropolitan Times are marked on the map with numbered blue dots. The number of your hotel can be found from the list on page 18.
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© Helsingin, Espoon, Vantaan ja Kauniaisten kaupungit 2019
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THE MAP OF THE METROPOLITAN AREA
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Helsinki
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Helsinki was founded in 1550 by King Gustavus Vasa of Sweden. It became the capital city of Finland (then the Grand Duchy of Finland) in 1812. Inhabitants: ca. 650,000. More information: www.hel.fi. 3
Espoo
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Espoo is the second largest city in Finland. It gained city rights in 1972, but the first written mention of Espoo is from 1458. Geographically scattered Espoo is divided into seven major areas and instead of one city center Espoo has five rather densly populated city centers. Inhabitants: ca. 290,000. More information: www.visitespoo.fi.
Vantaa Vantaa is the fourth largest city in Finland. It gained city rights in 1974, but the first written mention of Vantaa is from 1352. The Helsinki Airport is situated in Vantaa. Inhabitants: ca. 233,000. More information: www.visitvantaa.fi.
Kauniainen Kauniainen is a small town enclosed by the city of Espoo. It is the smallest commune of Finland with its 6 square kilometres. Inhabitants: ca. 9,400. More information: www.kauniainen.fi.
Capital region The total number of inhabitants in the Capital region (Helsinki, Espoo,Vantaa and Kauniainen) is 1.2 million.
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Greater Helsinki Capital region and the municipalities Hyvinkää, Järvenpää, Kerava, Kirkkonummi, Nurmijärvi, Sipoo, Tuusula, Mäntsälä, Pornainen and Vihti form the Greater Helsinki area, rising the number of inhabitants to 1.5 million. Together with the cities of Porvoo, Lohja and Riihimäki, the population of the Metropolitan area rises to ca. 1.6 million.
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Finland Norway
Russia
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Denmark
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Metropolitan Times is available
in these high standard Hotels & Hostels 01 Airport Hotel Bonus Inn
11 Hilton Helsinki Strand
Elannontie 9, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 825 511 www.bonusinn.fi
John Stenbergin ranta 4, 00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 393 51 www.hiltonhotels.com
02 Airport Hotel Pilotti
12 Hotel Haaga Central Park
Veromäentie 1, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 329 4800 www.airporthotelpilotti.fi
Nuijamiestentie 10, 00320 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 580 7877 www.hotelhaaga.fi
03 Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo
13 Hotel Helka
Tasetie 8, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 20 123 4605 www.sokoshotels.fi
Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 613 580 www.hotelhelka.com
04 Clarion Hotel Helsinki
14 Hotel Hellsten Espoo
Tyynenmerenkatu 2, 00220 Helsinki Tel. +358 10 850 3820 www.nordicchoicehotels.com
Porarinkatu 3, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 9 511 051 www.hellstenhotels.fi
05 Clarion Hotel Helsinki Airport
15 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Parliament
Tietotie 5, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 850 3810 www.nordicchoicehotels.com
06 Forenom Apart Hotel Espoo Leppävaara
16 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Senate
Porarinkatu 1, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com
Kauppiaankatu 5, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 511 0524 3 www.hellstenhotels.fi
07 Forenom Apart Hotel Helsinki City
17 Hotel Korpilampi Espoo
Eerikinkatu 24, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com
Korpilammentie 5, 02970 Espoo Tel. +358 9 613 8411 www.korpilampi.fi
08 Forenom Hostel Helsinki Pitäjänmäki
18 Hotel Majvik Espoo
Kornetintie 10, 00380 Pitäjänmäki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com
09 Hilton Helsinki Airport photo: Riku Pihlanto / Helsinki Marketing
Museokatu 18, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 511 0570 0 www.hellstenhotels.fi
Lentäjänkuja 1, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 732 20 www.hiltonhotels.com
10 Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa Kalastajatorpantie 1, 00330 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 458 11 www.hiltonhotels.com
Majvikintie 1, 02430 Masala Tel. +358 9 295 511 www.majvik.fi
19 Hämeenkylän Manor Juustenintie 1, 01630 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 540 8350 www.hameenkylankartano.fi
20 Original Sokos Hotel Albert Helsinki Albertinkatu 30, 00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4638 www.sokoshotels.fi 18
21 Original Sokos Hotel Presidentti Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 4, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4608 www.sokoshotels.fi
22 Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden Tapionaukio 3, 02100 Espoo Tel. + 358 20 123 4616 www.sokoshotels.fi
23 Original Sokos Hotel Tripla Fredikanterassi 1 B, 00520, Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4611 www.sokoshotels.fi
24 Radisson Blu Hotel Espoo Otaranta 2, 02150 Espoo Tel. +358 20 123 4705 www.radissonblu.com
25 Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Ruoholahdenranta 3, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4707 www.radissonblu.com
26 Scandic Espoo Nihtisillantie 1, 02630 Espoo Tel. +358 9 435 20 www.scandichotels.fi
27 Scandic Grand Marina Katajanokanlaituri 7, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 166 61 www.scandichotels.fi
28 Scandic Simonkenttä Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 68 380 www.scandichotels.fi
The Sauna Capital of the World welcomes everyone into its cosy warmth! We have over 30 public saunas in the Tampere region for anyone to relax in throughout the year. In particular, our region offers numerous possibilities for those who love the addictive combination of hot steam and ice-cold water. We Tampereans are known for our authenticity and warmth. The same goes for our sauna culture. In sauna we are all equal – and we have public saunas for every taste. For more on saunas, visit saunacapital.com
Photos. Laura Vanzo
For accommodation, restaurants, museums and more, go to visittampere.fi
Reading the
Finnish mind Written by Pauliina Eriksson Translated by Anna Eloaho
Have you ever pondered what the Finns are like? What is the Finnish sense of humour like, what makes a Finn weep, how do Finns see the world?
The literary tradition is strong in Finland. The headway of literary works written and published in Finnish language began in the late 19th century and nowadays this small country with its 5,5 million inhabitants is the second biggest publisher of books in the world per capita. Is it possible to get a grip of this nation by reading books? Author and teacher of Finnish language and literature Tommi Kinnunen recommends reading for anyone interested in foreign cultures. He emphasizes that literature does not merge from emptiness but “reflects the society and the social situation of a certain region, country or continent”. Through literature a reader gains an opportunity to get to know new cultures, certain geographical regions or specific epochs. Seven Brothers by Aleksis Kivi, considered to be the first significant novel written in Finnish language, is the ultimate classic of the Finnish literature. First published in 1870, Seven Brothers celebrates its 150th anniversary in 2020. With seven brothers as protagonists, the bildnungsroman tells the tale of seven freedom-loving and uncivilized village youth to respectable members of society. Kivi’s novel is often among the first ones mentioned when Finnish literature is introduced and it has been translated to numerous languages. Surprisingly Kinnunen doesn’t recommend a foreign reader to start from a classic. According to him the classics do give an accurate account of how the Finnish culture has developed from the past to our days, yet he recommends to start from a more contemporary work. Whereas Seven Brothers is set in an agricultural era, the awarded author Kjell Westö is known for his novels set in an urban environment, more specifically Helsinki. His works, too, have been translated widely. However, there is one interesting phenomenon Kinnunen wants to bring about when Finnish literary classics are discussed. The tradition
of strong women within Finnish literature can be traced throughout the tradition, starting from the national epic Kaleva, all through the plays by Hella Wuolijoki depicting ordinary people and continuing to the contemporary works like The Midwife by Katja Kettu. Also children’s literature is widely read and published in Finland. The Finnish kids love Tatu and Patu -series by Aino Havukainen and Sami Toivonen, with two wacky brothers from Oddville as protagonists. Tommi Kinnunen recommends Me Rosvolat -series by Siri Kolu as an example of an anarchist approach within the children’s book genre. Kinnunen emphasizes the meaning of literature in understanding phenomena that might otherwise be difficult to grasp. He gives being silent as an example of this and defines it as the ability of the Finnish people to feel relaxed in company without saying a word. “One doesn’t need to be distressed about being silent in Finland” he says. Yet another good example of specifically Finnish phenomenon is the dark, laconic and often bizarre humour of Arto Paasilinna’s novels. Got interested? There is a good selection of Finnish fiction available at the bookstores. Seven Brothers, Kalevala and The Midwife can be found in bookstores in English, German or Russian. Kjell Westö’s novels, too, have been translated to German. Tatu and Patu -books are available for kids in English and in German. Arto Paasilinna’s humour is available for those who read in French. The path to Finnish mind is open. s
Sharing silence in Finnish literature "Tuomas eyes the old childhood playgrounds from the cottage roof top. […] Tapio sits down by his side on the ridge and together they share a silent moment only brothers can have. The other one is looking at the lake and the other knows him to be counting the number of new cottages hiding behind the pine trees on the opposite shore. The other one glances at his side, which is enough to tell his brother that he is pondering the state of the dried up gray pine tree. Without saying a word, without looking at each other they both come to the conclusion that it should be felled and made to firewood. " Tommi Kinnunen: The Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti). WSOY 2016. 20
Iconic images
in the modern world
W
- stories of images live within us
Written by Leeni Peltonen
photo: Dominic Lee
hen Rihanna poses as Nefertiti on the cover of a magazine, your visual memory instantly recognises that iconic Egyptian female character. When you buy an umbrella adorned by two sweet angels, you are carrying the story of Raphael’s The Sistine Madonna from 500 years ago. The Inspiration exhibition at the Ateneum Art Museum discusses how and why it is specifically this art imagery that has become rooted in us, and what interpretations contemporary art makes of it. There are many familiar images in the Ateneum Art Museum’s Inspiration exhibition. They are familiar because the history of visual art is full of visual icons that we would recognise anywhere: the Mona Lisa on the cover of a juice container, or Michelangelo’s pietà character as an illustration for a magazine story of a mourning mother. Why these images? And why are they planted so deep in our collective memory? “It has to do with the visual memory of Western people. These characters are deeply ingrained in our visual DNA. There are historical reasons why this has happened”, says the chief curator at the Ateneum, Sointu Fritze.
Nancy Fouts, The Thinker (after Rodin/Degas), 2014
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• EXCLUSIVELY IN FINLAND •
Taste of Scandinavia high above sea level
S T E A K H O U S E S I N C E
Restaurant Haikaranpesä is located in Haukilahti, Espoo 76 meters above sea level. Restaurant has an amazing view over the Capital area and the Baltic Sea. Our Scandinavian style lunch buffet is prepared from pure and seasonal ingredients.
1 9 8 6
CHARCOAL GRILL EXQUISITE WINE LIST GROOVY MUSIC FRIENDLY STAFF LAID BACK ATMOSPHERE
Open daily Monday - Friday 11-16 • Saturday - Sunday 12-18 Reservations: www.ravintolahaikaranpesa.fi
LUNCH MON – FRI SAT
10.30 – 16.00 11.00 – 15.00
Eteläesplanadi 24, HELSINKI www.manhattansteakhouse.fi SAME EXCELLENT TASTES ALSO IN
FORUM SHOPPING CENTER 0 FLOOR – FOOD COURT
photo: ©Yinka Shonibare CBE. Courtesy James Cohan, New York.
THE INSPIRATION EXHIBITION PRESENTS WORKS THAT DRAW INSPIRATION FROM FAMOUS
MASTERPIECES, CREATED BY INTERESTING CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS.
Seen anew by contemporary artists The Inspiration exhibition presents works that draw inspiration from famous masterpieces, created by interesting contemporary artists. In the exhibition, the original classics are referenced, for example, through replicas, prints, plaster casts and abundant archive materials. The exhibition, which has been in preparation for as long as five years, is a major co-production with Nationalmuseum in Stockholm. The combinations are both exhilarating and heartbreaking: Nancy Fouts has dressed Rodin’s The Thinker in a tutu, reminiscent of Yinka Shonibare CBE: Medusa West (2015). James Cohan Gallery, New York. Degas’ ballerinas (2014), while Rob and Nick Carter’s or Giorgione’s/ Titian’s Sleeping Venus (2013) makes subtle movements in a two and Museums open their doors to the general public a half hour-long film. Tom Hunter’s Woman Reading Possession Order (1997), in turn, interprets Vermeer’s A Girl Reading at an Open The images and visual motifs, especially from antiquity and the Window (1657–59) from a contemporary perspective. Renaissance, have for centuries influenced our ideals of beauty and “Contemporary art breathes art history, as it lives from it and yet our visual environment, and our view of what is proper and good art. freely interprets it. In this way, popular culture and ‘sacred’ images These works – the Rembrandts, Michelangelos, Raphaels and are mixed. Both the artist and the viewer have the freedom to look Botticellis – have been copied, distributed, adapted and consumed at and explain all this from the perspective of the era they live in”, by millions worldwide. However, the decisive impetus that triggered says Sointu Fritze. Art history always makes value judgements by making choices, this development did not take place until less than 200 years ago. “Western art is founded on large museums, open to the general raising some works and ignoring others. In retrospect, it is easy to public. They began to be built in the 19th century in London, Berlin notice a wide range of demarcations related to power, race, gender, and Stockholm. Since then, anyone has been able to see prestigious and identity in the grand narrative of art history. History always has masterpieces for the price of an admission ticket”, says Sointu Fritze. its perspectives and gatekeepers. In Finland, the Ateneum Art Museum exemplifies this development. This is why female artists feature prominently in the Inspiration Completed in 1887, the building was a large-scale undertaking in exhibition – unlike in traditional art history. Finnish art circles: Finland was still part of Russia, but thanks to a “There are many women among contemporary artists, while in dynamic art society and some key enthusiasts, art history they tend to be conspicuous by their a building was erected in Helsinki housing both absence. It is important to understand that the art collections and art education units. narrative of art history is the white man’s story, For a nation that was still to gain its but it is constantly being supplemented”, says independence, the museum had huge Sointu Fritze. importance. And still, almost 150 years later, the Yinka Shonibare ( born 1962) is a Ateneum is, thanks to its interesting exhibitions British-Nigerian artist whose work explores, and central location, a lively meeting place of for example, cultural identity and colonialism. people and visual art – and the most popular The Inspiration exhibition includes his work museum in Finland. Medusa West (2015), which, at the exhibition, Right from the off, the Ateneum exhibited is juxtaposed with classic subjects of ancient Finnish art, as well as replicas of European sculpture, often featured in cultural buildings. Medusa Rondanini. University of Helsinki. masterpieces, created by artists who had travelled The photographic artist Ola Kolehmainen’s Photo: Timo Huvilinna, Helsinki University Museum and studied in Europe. In this way, classics of new series of works, which he photographed visual art spread even to the most remote parts of Europe, even for this exhibition at various museums in Europe, introduces the before mass media began distributing them in millions of copies. museum aspect to the display. “Copying was an effective way of distributing ‘proper’ images. “At museums, we can be transported to the past, but on the other This solidified a specific view of art for a long time to come. Seen hand, museums bring the past to the present. In this way, we travel from today’s perspective, this view is, of course, limited”, says the in both directions; museums and their collections are like time chief curator Sointu Fritze. machines”, says Ola Kolehmainen. 24
Ola Kolehmainen: MVSEVM XIII (Victoria & Albert), triptych, 2020. Ola Kolehmainen has been a key figure in planning the Inspiration exhibition with the curators. He uses buildings, spaces, and abstractions of colour and light as material for his photographs.
"AT MUSEUMS WE CAN BE TRANSPORTED TO THE PAST,
BUT ON THE OTHER HAND, MUSEUMS BRING THE PAST TO THE PRESENT.
IN THIS WAY, MUSEUMS AND THEIR COLLECTIONS ARE LIKE TIME MACHINES."
The Convalescent has come home You’re in luck: Helene Schjerfbeck’s The Convalescent, one of the most beloved and borrowed works in Finnish art history, is currently on display in the Stories of Finnish Art exhibition. There they wait. After climbing up the Ateneum’s stunning stairs, you reach the main exhibition hall, where Helene Schjerfbeck’s The Convalescent (1888) and other beloved classics are on display. The Stories of Finnish Art exhibition presents a comprehensive overview of Finnish visual art. Over its run of several years, the exhibition has resonated with a wide audience. The oldest works in the exhibition date from the early 19th century, and the most recent ones from the 1970s. Finland gaining independence in 1917 was preceded, in all fields of art, by a
national romantic phase, which is known as the golden age of Finnish art. From the twentieth century, shaken by two world wars, the exhibition highlights the turning points in art, which are presented through interesting selections and comparisons. The 1950s saw modernism storm into the worlds of art and design, the latter of which grew into one of Finland’s continuing success stories. In the exhibition, Finnish art is linked to historical and political events, as well as to the international context. Within a time span of roughly one hundred years, Finland became independent, industrialised and urbanised. The change has been rapid, and the artists insightfully and sensitively depict this journey. You are welcome to take a journey into the Finnish mental landscape! s
The Inspiration exhibition is co-produced with Nationalmuseum in
ATENEUM
Sweden. A comprehensive exhibition catalogue, also published as a
Finnish National Gallery
collaborative effort, is available in English, Finnish and Swedish.
Kaivokatu 2, 00100 Helsinki
INSPIRATION – CONTEMPORARY ART & CLASSICS
Opening hours
18 June 2020 – 20 September 2020 The artists featured at the exhibition include Marina Abramovic, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Mat Collishaw, Mark Karasick, Ola Kolehmainen, Jeff Koons, Joseph Kosuth, Sara Masüger, Janny Saville and Yinka Shonibare. The exhibition curators are Susanna Pettersson and James Putnam, and, representing the Ateneum, Marja
Tue, Fri 10am–6pm / Wed, Thurs 10am–8pm Sat, Sun 10am–5pm / Mondays closed Admission fees 17 € Normal admission / 15 € Discount admission 0 € Under 18 year-olds Combined tickets to the Finnish National Gallery’s museums 23–34 €
Sakari and Sointu Fritze.
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Photo: Joonas Vinnari
Nuuksio National Park in Espoo.
Text by Anna Eloaho
Into the woods and out to the sea
W
ith its 1,5 million inhabitants, the Helsinki Metropolitan area is the most densely habited part of Finland. One might think that in order to escape the urban hustle and bustle for pure nature one should travel rather far from the capital region. We let you in on a secret: there is proper Finnish forest within walking distance from the city centre, to be reached in just 15 minutes. In fact, there is no other capital region of over million inhabitants in the world with so much surrounding nature. The Central Park of Helsinki makes it possible to reach a forest by foot from anywhere from the city centre. Traversing Helsinki from south to north, the Central Park is the green gateway for the commuters as well as an easily reachable outdoor haven for those who enjoy the smell of green forest and birdsong. Founded in 1914, the Central Park offers opportunities for outdoor sports and recreation throughout the year. Central Park begins near the Helsinki Opera House at the Töölönlahti Bay, in the middle of the city. Central Park ends in the untouched primeval forest of Haltiala by the river Vantaa on the northern border of Helsinki. Other nature protection areas in the northern part of the park include Pitkäkoski deciduous forest, Niskala arboretum and Ruutinkoski deciduous forest. The green zones of the Metropolitan area form a unique Green Belt, extending from the Sipoonkorpi area to the peninsula of Porkkala. The Green Belt consists of the archipelago, the coastline, the rivers, the forests, the bogs and the cultural landscapes of the Metropolitan
area. The numerous nature conservation areas as well as the more recreational areas all form a pathway and a natural network allowing animals and plant species to transfer from one area to another. The widest forest areas, such as the Nuuksio and Sipoonkorpi National Parks in Espoo and Sipoo and Petikko in Vantaa are situated outside Kehä 3 (Ring 3) road. Petikko, Sipoonkorpi and Nuuksio National Park all have walking trails to offer. In Nuuksio, for example, it is possible to choose between several trails of different lengths. The shortest one, the Maahisenkierros trail (1.9 kilometres) is accessible for wheelchairs and baby buggies. There are dozens of recreational forests, walking routes, arboretums and woodland areas within easy reach in the Metropolitan area. By public transportation one can easily reach woodland gems such as the oak forest of Tammisto in Vantaa, the Viikki arboretum at Vanhankaupunginlahti, Uutela nature trail in Vuosaari in eastern Helsinki and Haaga Rhododendron park in western Helsinki. Longer urban walking and hiking routes include the Espoo Rantaraitti by the seaside. The Metropolitan area has plenty of options for bikers, too. Among them are the various themed bike routes such as “ the Central Park 100 years” and “the Olympic games of Helsinki in 1952”. A great choice for a nature enthusiast on a rainy day is Haltia Nature Centre, close to the Nuuksio National Park in Espoo. Along with exhibitions, shop and restaurant it offers more detailed information about the Metropolitan nature network Green Belt. Other interesting options include the Botanic Garden in Kaisaniemi as well as the Botanical Garden (Talvipuutarha) at Töölö Bay.
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The call of the islands Finland is known as the “Land of the thousand lakes”. It’s rather an understatement, as the total number of lakes in Finland is 188,000. The amount of islands is rather impressive too, as there have been counted to be nearly 180,000 islands in all of Finland. Most of these islands are situated inland amid the thousand lakes, but a great number of islands are located on the coast. The four principal archipelagos of Finland include the Kotka archipelago in the Gulf of Finland, the Archipelago Sea in the Southwest Finland and Åland, the archipelago in the Gulf of Botnia and the Helsinki archipelago. The most popular attraction in the Metropolitan archipelago is Suomenlinna Sea Fortress. The ferry (part of the Helsinki region public transportation HSL) from the Helsinki Market Square (Kauppatori) takes you there in just 20 minutes. The fortress with its bastions and cannons was built in the latter part of the 1700’s under the Swedish reign. Suomenlinna Sea Fortress has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991. Kauppatori harbour offers plenty of other options as well, as there are boats leaving for several other island destinations. Lonna, a former military island is a tiny island just outside Suomenlinna. Another former military island Vallisaari was opened for public in 2016, having been in military use for over 400 years. This summer Vallisaari is also the site of the very first Helsinki Biennale, introducing 40 Finnish and international artists and their site-specific work. From Vallisaari it is possible to walk to yet another island, Kuninkaansaari, as the two islands are connected by a narrow land bridge. Pihlajasaari is one of the summer classics among the people of Helsinki and as it is rather large island (two in fact!), it’s easy to find a peaceful spot for sun bathing
there. Ferries for Pihlajasaari leave from Kaivopuisto Sea Harbour and from Ruoholahti. Another Helsinki classic, Mustikkamaa is an island, too, but can be reached by foot or bike via Isoisänsilta (“the Grandad’s Bridge”) from Kalasatama. Through Mustikkamaa island one can even reach Korkeasaari island, the site of Helsinki Zoo by foot. The boats for Helsinki Zoo leave from Kauppatori harbour and from Hakaniemi. The utmost classic of the island destinations in Helsinki is Seurasaari with its open-air museum. As Seurasaari is located just a few kilometres from the heart of Helsinki, the HSL bus number 24 takes you to the bridge in just few minutes. The displayed cottages and farmsteads have been relocated from all around Finland. There are 165 islands in Espoo alone. Along the Archipelago Route (Saaristoreitti) one can see many of them and also visit several. In Iso Vasikkasaaari for example one can spend an entire day as both a summer restaurant and outdoor cooking facilities are provided. Saaristoreitti boats leave from Otaniemi and Kivenlahti harbours. For those who fancy to go even further to the sea can step into a boat at Kauppatori (or Aurinkolahti in Vuosaari or Kalkkiranta in Sipoo) and head for the Söderskär lighthouse in the Porvoo archipelago. s MORE INFORMATION • nationalparks.fi • hel.fi/helsinki/en/culture/recreation • citynature.eu/en/helsinki • espoo.fi/en-US/Housing_and_environment/ Environment_and_nature • vantaa.fi/leisure/nature_and_outdoor_recreation
Photo: Yrjö Tuunanen / the Governing Body of Suomenlinna
The King's Gate at Suomenlinna Sea Fortress.
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METROPOLITAN TIMES
COLUMN
S
Hitched to hotels
pending nights in hotels was not something I got used to as a child. My parents worked as photographers in a small district in northern Finland and to accommodate a family of seven in a hotel would have cost far too much. Hence, on the rare vacations were got used to spending nights on makeshift beds on the floors of friends and relatives. And what I had learned as a child, I carried on as a student. On occasional trips to other towns, I would crash on the spare mattresses of my local friends. We would laugh, talk and make the world a better place until four in the morning and then empty the refrigerator for breakfast. Therefore I was truly seduced by hotels only as an adult. They whisked me away from a day-to-day life, into a totally different word where daily routines, such as cleaning, making breakfast and changing the linen would be done for me by someone else, all I had to do was to enter. At home I would fantasize how my messy one-room flat would one day become clear and contemplated as a hotel room. A little luxury to balance a lot of every day life. That was the kind of hotel relation I yearned for. To be able to take a weekend away, see a play in a strange city after a working week. To be able to stay in an elegantly decorated room and to enjoy the difficulty of multiple choice at the sumptuous breakfast buffet. We all recognize the tingling joy of entering a new room for the first time. One is compelled to draw the curtains and check the view, open the door and inspect the bathroom. It’s almost annoying to open the suitcase and start unpacking the mundanities of one’s normal life into that beautiful utopia.
Written by Tommi Kinnunen Translated by Anna Eloaho
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photo: Envato Photo: Suvi-Tuuli Kankaanpää
Then our relationship changed. My work as a novelist started to take me to hotels more often that I thought was even necessary. Our relationship turned habitual. There always seemed to be the same rainy street-view behind the curtains and the same indifferent beds and tables in the room. The only cause for a slight excitement was whether there would be a tub or a shower in the bathroom. Suddenly we were no longer lovebirds but in a steady relationship. When previously I had wanted a hotel to be the unordinary non-home, nowadays when a hotel room functions as my home base during the author visits, I quite unexpectedly yearn for likeness of home from it. Instead of a hotel in the luring pulse of the city centre, I prefer a quiet location. I, too, keep to my room, having no interest to go nightclubbing. Instead of the abundant breakfast buffet a middle-aged man appreciates the light vegetarian choices. And rather than room service he prefers the possibility to iron his costume before making his public appearance.
What will the next step be? Are we to become an old married couple, knowing each other’s needs without words. There will be a thin pillow and a thick duvet for my aching bones waiting for me on my arrival and I will know my way around the building and into the breakfast room without instructions. Perhaps later on we will grunt on my grow-up daughter’s relation to hotels: her stories about the exciting weekend trips, spectacular lounges and beautiful decorations. Who knows. At the moment, however, she is just six years old and has very little experience in hotels. And although the 800-kilometre drive to see grandmother requires us to stop overnight, we have a habit of spending the night in the guestrooms of the relatives. s
Tommi Kinnunen (b.1973) is an author and a school teacher of Finnish literature. He was born in Kuusamo, north-east Finland and currently lives in Turku. His debut novel, Where Four Roads Meet (Neljän tien risteys, 2014) was shortlisted for the Finlandia Prize for Fiction and awarded with several literature awards. Where Four Roads Meet has been adapted to theatre as well. Kinnunen’s second novel, the Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti, 2016) was also shortlisted for Finlandia Prize. His third, The Glass River (Pintti, 2018) was awarded with the Bothnia Literary Prize. Kinnunen’s works have been translated into 20 languages. His fourth novel will be published in autumn 2020.
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BREWERY
DISTILLERY
BAR
BEERS AND WHISKIES FROM OWN BREWERY AND DISTILLERY • KITCHEN OPEN TILL CLOSING TIME
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Near the city but far from the rush Korkeasaari Zoo is uniquely located on an island in the Baltic Sea. It’s just outside the city, you can literally see the Helsinki Cathedral from the zoo. It takes only 20 minutes to get here by local bus (no 16) from the Railway Station of by ferry from the Market Square. Meet animals from the Himalayas, Siberia, Mongolia, Finland and the Asian rainforest – more than 150 species in total – while enjoying the silence and peace of the Finnish nature surrounding you.
Animals who are not afraid of cold It is not a coincidence that the snow leopard’s only bare spot is the tip of its nose or that the snowy owl is white and fluffy. Animals have their ways to adapt to cold climates. At Korkeasaari Zoo we want our large animals to enjoy outdoor life throughout the year. Therefore, instead of seeing a giraffe or a hippo, you will see a wolverine, a forest reindeer, an Amur tiger and a Bactrian camel – all species adapted to extreme winter. On a windy day, follow suit from the animals and dress warmly. If it gets too chilly, take refuge in the warm tropical houses.
To visit Korkeasaari Zoo is to act for nature Our mission is to conserve biodiversity. We want our visitors to value the importance of biodiversity and aim to motivate behavior change for conservation. In cooperation with other modern zoos, we breed endangered species to maintain a healthy and viable zoo population. Zoo populations have already saved various species from extinction. In order to support our mission in protecting wild animals and their natural habitats, we donate annually to various field conservation projects. Bring your coins and donate to the project of your choice. By visiting Korkeasaari Zoo, you support our work as defenders of biodiversity and endangered species. Korkeasaari Zoo is open all year round Daily from 10 am. During summer several restaurants, cafés, kiosks and picnic areas are spread around the island. During spring, fall and winter, at least one restaurant is open. www.korkeasaari.fi/helsinki-zoo
From zoos to the wild Do you know what European bison, bearded vulture, European forest reindeer and Przewalski´s wild horse have in common? All these species have been lost from the wild locally or globally, and brought back from extinction with the help of zoos, Korkeasaari Zoo among them.
