Metropolitan Times 2/18 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

2/2018

The long journey to the top – Finland and ice hockey

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

A fascinating combination of design, art and architecture at EMMA

WHY I LOVE TO STRAY

A column by Siri Kolu

There’s no need to whisper in today’s library

Lapland in the heart of Helsinki Genuine Northern delicacies served on wooden boat

Welcome – Buresboahtin! Lappish Restaurant Saaga Bulevardi 36 • Tel. +358 9 7425 5544 Mon–Sat 18–23 www.ravintolasaaga.ﬁ

Our Inspiration We seek for inspiration in the domestic seasonal ingredients and the traditional Finnish cooking. The Restaurant Restaurant Aino is excellently located in the heart of Helsinki by the lovely Esplanade Park. Shopping street as well as the buzzing market square are near by at the harbour. Restaurant Aino has been a proud advocate for traditional Finnish food. It has turned out to be a great success with foreigners in search of authentic Finnish dining experiences, as well as Finns reacquainting themselves with some old favorites.

Finnish Restaurant

Pohjoisesplanadi 21, 00100 Helsinki Puh. (09) 624 327 www.ravintolaaino.ﬁ

BREWERY

DISTILLERY

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CONTENTS Welcome to the Metropolitan area 6 The long journey to the top – Finland and ice hockey 8 Map of metropolitan area 12 Hotels & hostels providing Metropolitan Times 14 A fascinating combination of design, art and architecture at EMMA 16 There’s no need to whisper in today’s library 20 Why I love to stray – A column by Siri Kolu 22

Metropolitan Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2018 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.metropolitantimes.fi ISSN 2489-2688 Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover Photos from left to right & up to down: Skiing at Oittaa, Espoo. Photo: Joni Viitanen Katajanokka and Usbenski Cahtedral. Photo: Matti Tirri Kaivopuisto park in winter. Photo: Paul Williams Sofiankatu. Photo: Matti Tirri Helsinki in spring. Photo: Visit Helsinki Helsinki Sauna Day 2016. Photo: Eetu Ahanen Siri Kolu. Photo: Mirva Kakko

Metropolitan Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: m.metropolitantimes.fi. Metropolitan Times is available in selected hotel and hostel rooms and lobbies in Espoo-Helsinki-Vantaa metropolitan area (see pages 12–13 and 14). Next Metropolitan Times issue is out in April 2019. 4

Near the city but far from the rush Korkeasaari Zoo is uniquely located on an island in the Baltic Sea. It’s just outside the city, you can literally see the Helsinki Cathedral from the zoo. It takes only 20 minutes to get here by local bus. Meet animals from the Himalayas, Siberia, Mongolia, Finland and the Asian rainforest – more than 150 species in total – while enjoying the silence and peace of the Finnish nature surrounding you.

Animals who are not afraid of winter It is not a coincidence that the snow leopard’s only bare spot is the tip of its nose or that the snowy owl is white and fluffy. Animals have their ways to adapt to cold climates. At Korkeasaari Zoo we want our large animals to enjoy outdoor life throughout the year. Therefore, instead of seeing a giraffe or a hippo, you will see a wolverine, a forest reindeer, an Amur tiger and a Bactrian camel – all species adapted to extreme winter. Follow suit from the animals and dress warmly. If it gets too chilly, take refuge in the warm tropical houses.

To visit Korkeasaari Zoo is to act for nature Our mission is to conserve biodiversity. We want our visitors to value the importance of biodiversity and aim to motivate behavior change for conservation. In cooperation with other modern zoos, we breed endangered species to maintain a healthy and viable zoo population. Zoo populations have already saved various species from extinction. In order to support our mission in protecting wild animals and their natural habitats, we donate annually to various field conservation projects. Bring your coins and donate to the project of your choice. By visiting Korkeasaari Zoo, you support our work as defenders of biodiversity and endangered species.

Korkeasaari Zoo is open all year round, from October to March daily 10 am – 4 pm, ticket sales closes at 3 pm. (Closed on Christmas Eve.) Bus no 16 from the Central Railway Station square, runs once every 20 minutes, travel time 20 minutes. Restaurant Karhu and Bistro Bron are open according to zoo opening hours. www.korkeasaari.fi/helsinki-zoo

From zoos to the wild Do you know what European bison, bearded vulture, European forest reindeer and Przewalski´s wild horse have in common? All these species have been lost from the wild locally or globally, and brought back from extinction with the help of zoos, Korkeasaari Zoo among them.

photo: Skyfoto / Sami Kurikka

ESPOO

HELSINKI

VANTAA

Welcome to the Metropolitan area

photo: Kimmo Brandt

Urban culture and experiences in nature! Located just a metro ride away, Espoo is a vital city, offering each and every one interesting things to see and experience. Large natural areas are characteristic of Espoo: seashores, the archipelago, the wilderness in nature reserves and the waterways of the lake highlands. The cultural landscapes, constructed environments and natural areas of Espoo are like Finland in miniature. Espoo has a lot to offer for those craving culture: visit a fascinating museum in Exhibition Centre WeeGee or participate in one of our city’s many events. The special feature of Espoo is an urban structure that relies on five different centres. Four of them along the railway, and the fifth soon to be connected to the metro line. Espoo is growing fast, and the growth is focused strongly around the metro stations. Espoo is financially, ecologically, socially and culturally the most sustainable city in Europe. In early June, we won the Intelligent Community of the Year award. These achievements show that our hard work to build a sustainable future is bearing fruit. We want to ensure that our city will grow in a manner that will provide future generations with equal or better living conditions than those enjoyed by us. Welcome to Espoo!

photo: Jetro Stavén

Dear reader,

photo: Sakari Manninen

Vantaa – easy to approach, easy to love

You've made an excellent decision in coming to Helsinki! I can back up my statements of Helsinki's excellence with statistics and ratings: Last year was tourismwise a record year for Helsinki, and we saw a 15% increase in international tourists. People aren't visiting us just for pleasure, though. Last year Helsinki was the most popular congress city in the Nordics as well. And should you wish to stay longer, you might be pleased to hear that we place #1 in rankings that measure quality of life, satisfaction with the place people live in, as well as honesty - just to name a few. Helsinki is a compact, fun city, where modern urban life meets a beautiful, diverse environment. But don't take just my word for it. We believe that locals are the best guides to a city. As the tech-savvy people we have collected all the best local guides into one service: myhelsinki.fi. Go on and follow in the footsteps of the locals! The strategy of our city begins with the words "Helsinki is for a good life". We don't mean that just for residents, we mean it also for all visitors and other new friends. I hope to see you back soon.

If you arrive in Finland by plane, you will most probably arrive in Vantaa! The Helsinki-Vantaa international airport, a hub of northern flight routes, is an excellent first touch with both our city and Finland: Vantaa is an easy-to-approach, international, functional and flexible city. Vantaa is the 4th biggest city in Finland and home to more than 220,000 residents. Also businesses favor locating in Vantaa; for example, Aviapolis – the fastest-growing business area in Finland – is situated in our city. They say that you can get a first impression only once. Lucky for us, Vantaa’s trumps will captivate you in one fell swoop! We have flexible connections, great services, and loads of positive attitude. When here, be sure to familiarize yourself with local street art and versatile event provision, visit the Finnish Science Centre Heureka or check out Vantaa’s birthplace, Helsinge Vicarage, where you will also find the oldest building in the metropolis, the Church of St. Lawrence, which is the most popular church for weddings in Finland. Welcome to Vantaa! Ritva Viljanen

Jan Vapaavuori

Mayor of Vantaa

Mayor of Helsinki

Jukka Mäkelä Mayor of Espoo

TRY IT OUT. Concert info helsinkiphilharmonicorchestra.fi Tickets ticketmaster.fi

photo: Finnish Ice Hockey Association

Team Finland celebrates after an overtime goal in a thriller game against Russia in the World Junior Championship final in 2016. Tournament was hosted by Helsinki.

The long journey to the top

Finland and ice hockey Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

The story of Finnish ice hockey is also the story of Finland, rising from

an underdog position to the top of the world. At the same time the story shows how team players gradually took over the strong and silent loners.

Part I: Poverty, hardship and spark of hope

ice rink of Finland was constructed in Tampere in 1956. Many larger cities followed and the man made ice rinks had a crucial role in the In the early half of the 1900’s, Finland was a poor agricultural development of professional Finnish ice hockey. country with an ideal of a male hero who single-handedly turns Finland was still light years apart from the world class. This marsh into fertile fields, a male hero who made the strong and became clear, when Canada – and it should be pointed out that the silent type immortalized by John Wayne in his westerns appear as a opposing team was Canadian amateur team Whitby Dunlops, not blabbermouth. In sports the most iconic representative of this ideal a collection of the NHL-stars – beat our national ice hockey team was naturally the invincible and indefatigable on the 1958 World Championships by 24–0. A Paavo Nurmi, who just kept going. In the land story tells that in the third period one Finnish THERE WAS NOT MUCH TO of individual sports, ice hockey was a minor player made his way over the blue line with the WRITE HOME ABOUT THOSE one, despite the fact that Finland took part puck, thus causing the entire player’s bench GAMES, FINLAND LOST ALL in the World Championships already in 1939. along with the coach to get up and yell “shoot”. THREE MA TCHES, WITH A There was not much to write home about those Everything looked a bit better a year games, Finland lost all three matches, with a later, when Finland played on the World 3-21 GOAL DIFFERENCE. 3–21 goal difference. Championship arena against Sweden and Economic growth and social development succeeded for the first time to play an even took place in Finland during the two decades between the World Wars, match of 4–4 – thus snatching a valuable point from a front-runner but after the WW2 the country was practically flat broke again. However, country. And a year later from that, all hope goes down the drain in a new economic rise was obtained swiftly again and industrialisation historical rock bottom when Finland loses the Squaw Valley Olympic continued strongly throughout 1950’s. The golden age of Track and preliminaries to Germany and ends up in the lower division along Field was no more but a memory, but the foundation for the rise of with Japan and Australia, not so very tactfully re-named as the Pacific ice hockey was already being laid out, as the first artificial outdoor Ocean Division by the Finnish press. 8

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photo: SPORTS MUSEUM OF FINLAND

photo: Erkki Lahtinen / MUSEUMs OF Tampere

Wayne Gretzky (left) and Jari Kurri in the early 1980's.

The crowd cheering during Finland vs Czechoslovakia game in the 1965 World Championships in Tampere.

Part II: The change begins

Part III: The new world

The 1960’s marked the beginning of a great change that can still be seen to progress. The agricultural Finland was urbanizing, new industrial branches emerged, wealth grew and Finland shifted more firmly to be part of the western world. At the same time the first indoor ice rink of Finland rose to Tampere and the World Championships were played there in 1965. Finland was left seventh in the games, but managed to snatch one point form Sweden in an even 2–2 match. More surprises were on the way: in the 1967 World Championships Czechoslovakia was taken down by 3–1 and a year later in the Grenoble Olympics Finland surprised Canada, the terra firma of ice hockey, by winning 5–2. This level was then fixed for the next twenty years: every now and then Finland managed to pick on the grand ice hockey countries, but then again defeats to ice hockey Lilliputians such as East-Germany and Poland ripped the changes to fight for medals. Sometimes the odds were simply against Finland. In the Innsbruck Olympics in 1976 Germany took the bronze medal from Finland with just 0,04 difference in the scoring statistics. However, the signs of change were already in the air.

The beginning of the 1990’s was crucial period for Finland. The Soviet Union collapsed, causing problems for many Finnish companies relying on the export to east. Due to this and several other reasons Finland drifted to historically deep recession. In the mid 90’s a new rise began with Nokia as the guiding star. At the same time Finland became a member of the European Union. A new chapter had begun in ice hockey as well. The Finnish National League that had started in 1976 had developed to be more professional and in 1994 TPS Turku beat unprecedentedly The Moscow Dynamo at the European Cup finals with 4–3. In the national team level Finland had finally won a long sought medal in the Calgary Olympics in 1988. Yet the biggest bombshell was seen in the World Championship finals in Stockholm in spring 1995, where Finland took Sweden down by 4–1. Some reminded – thus honouring the ancient self-condemnation tradition in Finland – that the fact that the NHL players were not attending these games in fact reduced the value of the World Championship just earned. Undisputable evidence on Finland’s position on the top is, however, the fact that between 1998–2014 five Olympics and one World Cup were played with all the best players attending. Finland was the only country that managed to be among the three best, for five times. Despite the fact that the Finnish line up was comprised of goal scoring machines like Teemu Selänne – Swedish ice hockey fans still have nightmares due to his winning goal in the quarter finals at the Nagano Olympics – and other superstars, the reason for success was in the the seamless team spirit that made the Lion team a lot more than the sum of its parts. What does the future of Finland and Finnish ice hockey look like? Excellent, in fact. After some difficult years the Finnish economy has again turned for the better, there are more Finnish top players in NHL now than there ever was and in the past three years Finland has won the Ice Hockey World Junior Championships in the Under-20 tournament once and twice in the Under-18’s. s

THE REASON FOR SUCCESS WAS IN THE

SEAMLESS TEAM SPIRIT THAT MADE THE LION

TEAM A LOT MORE THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS.

In 1978 the Finland men’s under-18 ice hockey team took gold from the USSR in the overtime by 6–5. The winning goal was shot by a certain Jari Kurri, who then became the first Finnish superstar in the legendary line up of Edmonton Oilers along with Wayne Gretzky in the 1980’s. Surely some Canadien journalists who didn’t much appreciate European ice hockey players declared that even a fire hydrant could score over 70 goals per season had it played on Gretzky’s line. Such tattle had long dried out by the time Kurri and Oilers won Stanley Cup after “The Great One” had transferred to Los Angeles. 10

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THE OLDEST SOUVENIR SHOP IN HELSINKI OPPOSITE THE TEMPPELIAUKIO CHURCH

– Since 1980 –

ANNENSOPPI OY / ANNE’S SHOP Fredrikinkatu 68, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 445 823 OPEN EVERY DAY 9–18 (winter 9–17) www.annensoppi.com

Knitwear

Finnish knives

Reindeer hides

Handicrafts

Målerås crystal

Souvenirs

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET

Metropolitan Times Map App is available for your use in

www.metropolitantimes.fi

PLEASE LEAVE THIS MAGAZINE FOR THE NEXT GUEST – THANK YOU! 19

YOU ARE HERE!

Hotels providing Metropolitan Times are marked on the map with numbered blue dots. The number of your hotel can be found from the list on page 14.

THE MAP OF THE METROPOLITAN AREA

Helsinki

Helsinki was founded in 1550 by King Gustavus Vasa of Sweden. It became the capital city of Finland (then the Grand Duchy of Finland) in 1812. Inhabitants: ca. 600,000. More information: www.hel.fi. 3

Espoo

1 2

Espoo is the second largest city in Finland. It gained city rights in 1972, but the first written mention of Espoo is from 1458. Geographically scattered Espoo is divided into seven major areas and instead of one city center Espoo has five rather densly populated city centers. Inhabitants: ca. 275,000. More information: www.visitespoo.fi.

Vantaa Vantaa is the fourth largest city in Finland. It gained city rights in 1974, but the first written mention of Vantaa is from 1352. The Helsinki Airport is situated in Vantaa. Inhabitants: ca. 220,000. More information: www.visitvantaa.fi.

Kauniainen Kauniainen is a small town enclosed by the city of Espoo. It is the smallest commune of Finland with its 6 square kilometres. Inhabitants: ca. 9,400. More information: www.kauniainen.fi.

Capital region The total number of inhabitants in the Capital region (Helsinki, Espoo,Vantaa and Kauniainen) is 1.1 million.

Greater Helsinki Capital region and the municipalities Hyvinkää, Järvenpää, Kerava, Kirkkonummi, Nurmijärvi, Sipoo, Tuusula, Mäntsälä, Pornainen and Vihti form the Greater Helsinki area, rising the number of inhabitants to 1.4 million. Together with the cities of Porvoo, Lohja and Riihimäki, the population of the Metropolitan area rises to about 1,550,000.

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26 7

27 28 25

Finland Norway

Russia

Sweden Estonia

Denmark

Latvia Lithuania

Metropolitan Times is available

in these high standard Hotels & Hostels Elannontie 9, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 825 511 www.bonusinn.fi

02 Airport Hotel Pilotti Veromäentie 1, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 329 4800 www.airporthotelpilotti.fi

03 Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo Tasetie 8, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 20 123 4605 www.sokoshotels.fi

04 Clarion Hotel Helsinki Tyynenmerenkatu 2, 00220 Helsinki Tel. +358 10 850 3820 www.nordicchoicehotels.com

05 Clarion Hotel Helsinki Airport Tietotie 5, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 850 3810 www.nordicchoicehotels.com

06 Forenom Apart Hotel Espoo Leppävaara Porarinkatu 1, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com

07 Forenom Apart Hotel Helsinki City Eerikinkatu 24, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com

10 Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa Kalastajatorpantie 1, 00330 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 458 11 www.hiltonhotels.com

19 Hämeenkylän Manor Juustenintie 1, 01630 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 540 8350 www.hameenkylankartano.fi

11 Hilton Helsinki Strand

20 Original Sokos Hotel Albert Helsinki

John Stenbergin ranta 4, 00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 393 51 www.hiltonhotels.com

Albertinkatu 30, 00120 Helsinki Tel. + 358 20 123 4638 www.sokoshotels.fi

12 Hotel Haaga Central Park

21 Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden

Nuijamiestentie 10, 00320 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 580 7877 www.hotelhaaga.fi

13 Hotel Helka Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 613 580 www.hotelhelka.com

14 Hotel Hellsten Espoo Porarinkatu 3, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 9 511 051 www.hellstenhotels.fi

Tapionaukio 3, 02100 Espoo Tel. + 358 20 123 4616 www.sokoshotels.fi

22 Radisson Blu Hotel Espoo Otaranta 2, 02150 Espoo Tel. +358 20 123 4705 www.radissonblu.com

23 Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Ruoholahdenranta 3, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4707 www.radissonblu.com

15 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Parliament

24 Scandic Espoo

Museokatu 18, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 511 0570 0 www.hellstenhotels.fi

Nihtisillantie 1, 02630 Espoo Tel. +358 9 435 20 www.scandichotels.fi

16 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Senate

25 Scandic Grand Marina

Kauppiaankatu 5, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 511 0524 3 www.hellstenhotels.fi

08 Forenom Hostel Helsinki Pitäjänmäki

17 Hotel Korpilampi Espoo

Kornetintie 10, 00380 Pitäjänmäki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com

Korpilammentie 5, 02970 Espoo Tel. +358 9 613 8411 www.korpilampi.fi

09 Hilton Helsinki Airport

18 Hotel Majvik Espoo

Lentäjänkuja 1, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 732 20 www.hiltonhotels.com

Majvikintie 1, 02430 Masala Tel. +358 9 295 511 www.majvik.fi

Katajanokanlaituri 7, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 166 61 www.scandichotels.fi

26 Scandic Simonkenttä Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 68 380 www.scandichotels.fi

27 Seurahuone Helsinki Kaivokatu 12, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 689 9903 55 www.scandichotels.fi

28 Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Yrjönkatu 26, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4604 www.sokoshotels.fi 14

photo: Comma Image Oy

01 Airport Hotel Bonus Inn

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA

A fascinating combination of

design, art and architecture

Known for Finnish and international modernism and contemporary art,

EMMA – Espoo Museum of Modern Art has recently become home to one of the most coveted design collections of modern art: the unique

collection of Tapio Wirkkala Rut Bryk Foundation that contains the life’s work of the Finnish artist-designer couple Rut Bryk (1916-1999) and Tapio Wirkkala (1915-1985). TEXT BY IIA PALOVAARA EMMA – ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

EMMA, the Foundation and the City of Espoo have opened this remarkable collection as a visible storage. As home to the archives of two leading names in Finnish design history, EMMA permanently presents sketches, drawings, photographs and scale models alongside an extensive pick of finished works by both artists. Highlights include rare models

by Wirkkala that never went into production. The visible storage offers a new perspective into the collection, giving viewers the chance to explore and make discoveries. It also provides a sneak peek into conservation practices and art photography as well as other behind-the-scenes work done by museum professionals.

Tapio Wirkkala, vase, 1948-1951, Tapio Wirkkala Rut Bryk Foundation. 16

MAGICAL MOMENTS IN ESPOO E S P O O C U LT U R A L C E N T R E & T A P I O L A S I N F O N I E T T A

E S P O O. F I / C U LT U R A LC E N T R E TA P I O L A S I N F O N I E T TA . F I / C O N C E R T S

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA

Rut Bryk, Hexagon, 1950–1959, Tapio Wirkkala Rut Bryk Foundation.

Outi Pieski, Falling Shawls.

In the centre of the visible storage, the exhibition Futuromania – Designing Future Living is on view until February 17th 2019. Throughout history, the future has been a topic of enduring fascination for architects, planners, designers and artists. Futuromania presents a selection of utopian visions of future living dreamed up by leading Finnish artists from the 1950s and 1960s, including Kaija Aarikka, Aarne Ervi, Matti Suuronen, Armi Ratia, Aarno Ruusuvuori and Tapio Wirkkala. Aamu Song’s and Johan Olin’s (COMPANY) new participatory installation complements these futuristic utopias. Design fits into the exhibition array at EMMA, since its exhibition spaces – the largest in Finland – are housed in a striking building which is a landmark of industrial architecture designed by Professor Aarno Ruusuvuori. EMMA is based in the Exhibition Centre Weegee in the centre of a modernist 1960’s “Garden City” in the Tapiola district of Espoo. As you stroll through the exhibitions, you are not only

surrounded by art, but also by a pine forest that is like an artwork itself – seen from the large horizontal window. On your visit, you may also enjoy a delicious lunch or a glass of wine at Cafe WeeGee or visit the EMMA Shop, a treasure trove of contemporary design and unique gifts for people of all ages.

A highlight from the exhibition Futuromania – Designing Future Living is a 3D animation of Tapio Wirkkala’s entry for the City of the Future 2000 competition at the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair. Wirkkala visualized his future city as a string of sculptural residential blocks interconnected by an electric-powered commuter monorail.

EMMA has showcased the awarded Finnish artists of the Fine Arts Academy of Finland Prize since its beginning in 2013. The distinguished prize is awarded to an artist who is at their creative peak, and whose oeuvre deserves greater visibility and recognition. The prize exhibition of Sámi artist Outi Pieski (1973) is on view until January 6th 2019. Pieski is known for delicate but powerful installations and intricate paintings that draw on topical themes. Pieski has Sámi roots and thus deals especially with issues concerning Sámi culture. Her principal subjects include Sámi history and future, the rights of

photo: Ari Karttunen / EMMA

EMMA – ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Exhibition Centre WeeGee, Ahertajantie 5, Tapiola Mon closed, Tue & Thu 11 am – 6 pm, Wed 11 am – 7 pm, Fri 11 am – 7 pm, Sat & Sun 11 am – 5 pm. Tickets: Adults 12 € / under 18 and over 70 free. www.emmamuseum.fi

indigenous people and their relationship with nature, and sustainable development. A strong desire to make a difference is evident in her work and she often engages in collaborative projects to achieve change. Čuolmmadit, the title of the exhibition is in the Northern Sámi language and means “to tie many knots”. It refers not only to the installation that has taken over the exhibition space and was tied from threads, but also to the Sámi craft techniques applied by her in many of her works. Use of the forms, colours and techniques of Sámi craft requires learning skills that were forgotten due to colonisation. It enables people to study their own culture and breathe new life into it. Another must-see contemporary artist, Alicja Kwade (b. 1979, Poland), is exhibitiong at EMMA from October 10th 2018 to April 28th 2019. She has recently achieved acclaim in international art biennials. Kwade’s exhibition, built around a commissioned work to the Saastamoisen Foundation collection marks her Finnish debut.

Kwade’s sculpturesque exhibition was tailor-made to engage in a dialogue with the unique architecture of the museum building. Kwade’s art addresses the themes of time, matter and space, challenging our perceptions and understanding of the nature of reality. Make sure to visit again in the fall after the widely successful exhibition Michael Jackson: On the Wall has opened at EMMA. Opening in August 2019, the show highlights a selection of artworks by over 40 notable contemporary artists with a personal interest in Michael Jackon’s music and persona, each of whom offers a distinctive interpretation of the cultural icon and timeless King of Pop. Featuring artists including Andy Warhol, Isaac Julien and Isa Gentzken, the exhibition examines the impact and influence of Jackson as a major cultural figure. Produced by the National Portrait Gallery, the show is curated by its Director, Dr Nicholas Cullinan. s

AS YOU STROLL THROUGH THE EXHIBITIONS, YOU ARE NOT ONLY SURROUNDED BY ART, BUT ALSO BY A PINE FOREST

THAT IS LIKE AN ARTWORK ITSELF – SEEN FROM THE LARGE HORIZONTAL WINDOW.

Photo: ALA Architects

There’s no need to

Conceptual image of Helsinki's new main library Oodi.

whisper in today’s library

inland is a land of libraries. Every city or municipality has at least one library open to anyone who wants to borrow a book, read magazines or work. Libraries hold events, teach new skills and make new books available to everyone fast and free of charge. How did we achieve this? How did Finland’s library institution develop into one of the best in the world and what is its future? The library’s history in Finland begins in 1794, when the City of Vaasa established the country’s first lending library open to all people. In the mid-1800s, university students and the educated classes took it upon themselves to increase the general knowledge of the population at large. For this purpose, libraries offering Finnish materials suitable for advancing this goal were established across the country. In the early 20th century, these people’s libraries evolved into public libraries catering to a broad range of interests. The modern library, however, is a lot more than a mere place from which to borrow books. According to the new Public Libraries Act, which entered into force last year, libraries must ensure the population’s equal opportunities to access education and culture, versatile literacy skills, opportunities for lifelong learning and competence development. The ways to achieve this include an expansion of the range of services. Big libraries do indeed offer a whole range of services under one roof. The inauguration of Helsinki’s new main library, Oodi, will be held at the beginning of December, while the most recent innovation of Metso, the main library in Tampere, is its own product range. The items on sale include paper products, jewellery and accessories. In Turku, the main library block combines old and new architecture, as if in reference to the library’s balancing act between traditional collections and new services. Today’s library is a living room open to everyone. A good example of this is the public library of Sello, located in Espoo, which has profiled itself as an event library. You can go there to have your bike serviced, use a sewing machine or take you children to the play area

Written by Pauliina Eriksson

in the children’s section. Events are held on the stage while groups from daycare centres visit the library to borrow books or play games in the gaming corner. HOW DID FINLAND’S LIBRARY INSTITUTION

DEVELOP INTO ONE OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD AND WHAT IS ITS FUTURE?

Timo Ylönen, who works as library pedagogue for the Espoo City Library, says that libraries the world over are facing a window of opportunity. While book lending and traditional information services hardly seem adequate any more, libraries have embraced the opportunity to develop their services in an increasingly active direction, trying new forms of services open-mindedly and without prejudice. “At their best, libraries are meeting places for active people and learners, offering events as well as premises and equipment for a variety of activities,” says Ylönen. In addition to diverse events and services, the Espoo City Library has decided to invest particularly in the development and maintenance of children’s literacy skills. According to Timo Ylönen, the starting point for this work is the operating principle of overall library work in Espoo: “Every child need curiosity, imagination and multiliteracy. Libraries increase our ability to tell our own and understand others’ stories.” Ylönen further interprets this as a need for knowledge and stories which result in a whole person who understands society. He also emphasises the significance of comprehensive reading skills in terms of the retention of democratic societies, freedom of expression and human rights. The future of public libraries seems bright. Books and lending services provide a good foundation upon which to build. Change is nevertheless unavoidable because, as Ylönen sums it up, “you can’t stay put – you have to move forward”. In the best case, the result is an increasingly service-minded and versatile public library for all. s

METROPOLITAN TIMES

COLUMN

Written by Siri Kolu Translated by Anna Eloaho

Why I love to stray

Cities have their own logic, rather like their own language. There are residential streets and industrial areas. There are design districts and infinities of apartment buildings and people’s squares where fruit is sold in booths or spread out on the ground on piece of plastic or gunny sack. There are areas of families with kids, dog parks for tiny urban dogs, paradises for joggers. My favourite thing is to learn how the inhabitants utilise their own city. I observe places where people meet. Places that gather the thirsty or the dance devotees. I view the boxing halls and the dance studios. Especially important places for a writer are the places where the secret encounters take place or where the grown up children take their grandmothers for coffee. In these places I order a cup of coffee, open my notebook and start to write. I feel that I’m part of everything around me when I don’t even know where I am. In the olden times the yet undiscovered areas in maps were marked here be

dragons. The experiences during the time spent lost often feel like that –as if they were not drawn on a map at all. When you don’t know where you are, you are given everything, since you don’t expect anything at all. I have found parks that were not marked on maps, I have wandered on a cosy residential area that was described nightmarish by the hotel guide, I have found secret cafes and pop-up shops of Italian catwalk fashion from the most ghastly basements. I have attended auctions, rummage sales and flea markets. I have been invited to weddings, bakery openings and all night long block parties. I also love the moment of returning back on the map. The very instant I recognize where I am. When I find my way back to a familiar metro line. The moment I open Google Maps. It’s almost sad to be back on the map again, having returned to familiar surroundings. As I return from a hidden cafe to my hotel I see the hotel, too, with fresh eyes. I see my face in the elevator: I glow, faintly, just like people returning from a secret rendez-vous do. Each time I receive an invitation for a work trip, certain tingle rises to my spine. I open the programme and look for a time slot for my disappearance. I start waiting for the moment when I can get lost. I hop on the closest available public transportation and change for the next one whenever I feel like doing so. I move swiftly, as if trying to shake off the dutiful me. Getting lost turns into a game, I travel only in busses with even number or numbers of my phone number. I throw dice and get off on six. I do as the Situationists did in their time: I become an explorer when I free myself from knowing everything. I have fallen in love with a city that tempts me to stay lost for one more hour, until the next block. It’s not long till my next work trip. I’m going to pack comfortable sneakers along. It’s time to disappear again for a while. s

Siri Kolu is an author, dramaturge and theatre instructor. Her works include children’s books and other fiction. Her awarded (among others Finlandia Junior Prize) Me Rosvolat book (Me and the Robbersons) was adapted into film in 2015. The latest book in the Me and Robbersons series, Tarinataistelu (the Battle of Stories) was published in September 2018. Kolu lives in Vantaa, where she also works as the principal of Vantaa School of Literary Art.

Photo: Mirva Kakko

ne of the important pleasures in life for me is going astray in strange cities. On every work trip I schedule an extra afternoon for getting lost. On every holiday trip there has to be one day with no program, reserved just for wandering. One needs to be systematic and planned in order to go astray. Getting lost calls for proper shoes. A bottle of water and enough clothes are required. It also pays off to have a few coins in the local currency as well as a charged phone. Possibly a dice, a notebook and a pen. Un umbrella. The most important thing is to set everything at zero. Getting lost is all about daring to be dazzled for a moment, not working one’s way back on the map or near a familiar landmark right away. When lost, one must dare to walk and have one’s eyes open. Voluntary lostness without haste feels like falling in love. It offers a possibility to get to know an unknown city with its most immense aspects wide open for you. When I’m lost, I see in a different way, I read the streets and the landscape as if they were signs. I read crowds. I read the street signs. I listen to the buskers and the foreign language around me. Is there a bus line? What sort of a market square is this? Where did all these people get their delicious pastries?

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