A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS
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IN THIS ISSUE Citius, Altius, Politicus Page 8
Into the Great Ice Open Page 10
Moomin Philosophy for People of All Ages Page 16
A column by Roope Lipasti
please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!
Confessions of a Hotel Room Writer Page 22
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CONTENTS Welcome to the Metropolitan area 6 Citius, Altius, Politicus 8 Into the Great Ice Open 10 Map of metropolitan area 12 Hotels & hostels providing Metropolitan Times 14 Moomin Philosophy for People of All Ages 16 Confessions of a Hotel Room Writer – A column by Roope Lipasti 22
Metropolitan Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2020 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.metropolitantimes.fi ISSN 2489-2688 (print) ISSN 2669-8277 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland
Editor Roope Lipasti Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216
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Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy
Cover Lux Helsinki. Photo: N2 Albiino / Helsinki Marketing Helsinki University library. Photo: Alex Bao / Helsinki Marketing Ice swimming. Photo: Maija Astikainen / Helsinki Marketing Kruununhaka. Photo: Jussi Hellsten / Helsinki Marketing Roope Lipasti. Photo: Riikka Kantinkoski
Metropolitan Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: m.metropolitantimes.fi. Metropolitan Times is available in selected hotel and hostel rooms and lobbies in Espoo-Helsinki-Vantaa metropolitan area (see pages 12–13 and 14). The next issue will be out in April 2021. 4
photo: Arttu Kokkonen / Helsinki Marketing
ESPOO
HELSINKI
VANTAA
Welcome to the Metropolitan area
photo: Olli Urpela
Urban culture and experiences in nature! Located just a metro ride away, Espoo is a vital city, offering each and every one interesting things to see and experience. Espoo has a lot to offer for those craving culture: visit a fascinating museum in Exhibition Centre WeeGee or participate in one of our city’s many events. Large natural areas are characteristic of Espoo: seashores, the archipelago, the wilderness in nature reserves and the waterways of the lake highlands. The cultural landscapes, constructed environments and natural areas of Espoo are like Finland in miniature. The special feature of Espoo is an urban structure that relies on five different centres. Four of them along the railway, and the fifth soon to be connected to the metro line. Espoo is growing fast, and the growth is focused strongly around the metro stations. Espoo has twice been ranked as the most ecologically, economically, socially and culturally sustainable city in Europe. We have also been invited to act as one of the pioneering cities implementing the United Nation’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, in cooperation with Aalto University and companies. We want to ensure that our city will grow in a manner that will provide future generations with equal or better living conditions than those enjoyed by us. Welcome to Espoo!
photo: Jetro Stavén
Dear reader,
photo: Sakari Manninen
Welcome to Finland, welcome to Vantaa!
Welcome to Helsinki! Making the decision to travel in these exceptional times might not be easy. Rest assured, the city of Helsinki is doing all it can to make life in the city as safe as possible. Before the pandemic I would have bragged to you about how Helsinki ranks #1 in rankings that measure quality of life, satisfaction with the place people live in, as well as honesty – just to name a few. Actually, I still might want to brag about that, but I want to add that we also rank highly in caring about safety and health. Luckily, some things are unchanged by the pandemic: Helsinki is still a compact, fun city, where modern urban life meets a beautiful, diverse environment. Helsinki lives and breathes throughout every season of the year. But don’t take just my word for it. We believe that locals are the best guides to a city. While we sadly can’t assign a personal local for each visitor, as the tech-savvy people we are, we have collected all the best local guides into one service: myhelsinki.fi. The strategy of our city begins with the words ”Helsinki is for a good life”. We don’t mean that just for residents, we mean it also for all visitors and other new friends. I hope to see you back soon.
We are happy to have you here in our sustainable, vibrant city where you can dive into local and urban life surrounded by green environment. Vantaa is known for its airport, Helsinki Airport: the up-to-the-minute, high-tech services attract business travelers from both Finland and abroad. The neighborhood around it, Aviapolis, will in the future offer modern living for residents and tourist alike. The airport has been officially carbon neutral airport since August 2017. City of Vantaa takes environmental issues seriously as well and our aim is to be carbon neutral by 2030. Visiting Vantaa is safe, also during this challenging time with COVID-19. Finland is one of Europe’s safest countries in terms of health and hygiene and we have raised our standards even higher. In Vantaa you can both enjoy attractions and keep your physical distance: for example, visit Kuusijärvi all-season outdoor recreational area and let your steps guide you to Sipoonkorpi National Park – the last wilderness of the Capital Region of Helsinki. If you’d like to find other gems of Vantaa, check visitvantaa.fi and let Vantaa fascinate you! Ritva Viljanen
Jan Vapaavuori
Mayor of Vantaa
Mayor of Helsinki
Jukka Mäkelä Mayor of Espoo 6
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Finland's Hannes Kolehmainen breaks the tape to win gold in men's 5000m final in a new world record time of 14min 36.6 from France's Jean Bouin, who took silver in Stockholm Olympic Games 1912.
Citius, Altius, Politicus Sports and politics have always been closely
intertwined, and Finland has been more involved in this than many of its residents might think.
Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Owen F. Witesman
T
he statement “we need to keep politics out of sports” often really means “human rights are a luxury we don’t have the time or resources for.” This kind of thinking has been used to justify granting major events to dictatorships and maintaining connections with sports programs in repressive states. In Finland, this subject recently hit the headlines again due to the situation in Belarus, where citizens took to the streets to demand the resignation of President Alexander Lukashenko following a fraudulent election. As these events began to unfold, the international hockey community began to discuss whether the 2021 Ice Hockey World Championships could be held in Belarus. Problems deepened as the opening game of the Kontinental Hockey League (KHL) season approached, since the Helsinki Jokerit were set to play in Belarus. At first it seemed as if the team really was going to play, but in the end the Jokerit agreed to cancel the match at the last moment (on the actual day). In Russia, the Jokerit were accused of insulting the league and mixing politics with sports, which is of course absurd on its face since the whole KHL is a political project by Russia and Putin. The connections between sports and politics were familiar to Finns long before this autumn. Finland entered the sporting world’s consciousness at the Stockholm Olympics in 1912. The country was still a part of Russia at the time but received special permission to field its own team, as did a few other dependent countries. Because Finland was not allowed to use its own 8
photo: Alexander Zemlianichenko / AFP / Lehtikuva
flag, the team entered the stadium during the opening ceremonies During the Cold War, Finland tried to walk a tightrope of neutrality under the white and blue banner of the Helsinki Gymnastics Club. between East and West. One polite way of describing this policy of However, the flag raised during the medal ceremony was Russian, as restraint was that Finland preferred to be a doctor than a judge. Hannes Kolehmainen, who won three gold medals, remembered This was also evident in sports, with Finland steering clear of the with bitterness: “I almost would have rather lost than been forced Olympic boycotts of Moscow and Los Angeles. From the perspective to look at that flag.” of competitive success, the latter was particularly beneficial for A British politician, Olympic medalist and Nobel Peace Prize Finland: Arto Härkönen took the gold in javelin with a throw of winner, Philip Noel-Baker disagreed: “That flag was forgotten instantly, 86.76 meters even though the world record from the same year was but his brilliant battle with Bouin made a decisive contribution to 104.80 m (Uwe Hohn), and Juha Tiainen won the hammer despite Finland’s independence.” his winning throw of 78.08 m was Because of their success, the more than 3.5 meters shorter than “I ALMOST WOULD HAVE RATHER LOST THAN Finnish team received ample Yuriy Sedkyh’s four years earlier. column space in newspapers Nowadays the world is BEEN FORCED TO LOOK AT THAT FLAG.” around the world, for example different, and more and more – HANNES KOLEHMAINEN in the prestigious Sporting Life people want to take a stand and magazine, which expressed its show their support for the weak admiration in this unique way: “Among the athletes, the Finns and oppressed. “Racism is a huge problem, and silence is not an attracted the most attention with their strangely shaped skulls. A option,” said Finland national football team captain Tim Sparv after small but amazing team.” the team knelt before a Nations League match at Wales to show their However, as has happened many times since, the international support for the Black Lives Matter movement. attention and empathy afforded to an oppressed people at the Games Still, sometimes it feels like there is nothing new under the sun: was soon forgotten, and Russia tightened its grip. Finland’s special In AD 67, Nero participated in the ancient Olympic chariot race, status was rescinded, and Finns who headed for the 1916 Berlin where he was declared victor even though he didn’t even cross the Olympics would have had to compete as part of the Russian team. finish line. In 2019, President Putin scored eight goals in a charity However, the World War put a stop to the Games, and the Finnish match featuring former top Russian hockey stars. According to the athletes were not forced to choose between their ambitions and Reuters news agency, “[p]laying center forward, Putin was provided their dignity. with plenty of scoring opportunities by his linemates and was met with little resistance by the opposing team’s defense.” s After the bloody civil war that followed independence in 1918, the Finnish Gymnastics and Sports Association (SVUL) ejected all of the Russian President Vladimir Putin and Belarusian President Alexander clubs that had fought on the Red side in the civil war, who formed Lukashenko (not in picture) take part in an ice hockey match at Rosa Khutor outside the Black Sea resort of Sochi on February 2020 as part of Lukashenko's the Workers’ Sports Association (TUL) the following year. SVUL visit to Russia. chose Finland’s representatives for the Olympics, and those who switched associations in pursuit of their Olympic dreams added to the bitterness between the camps. These “turncoats” brought Finland 23 of our 140 Olympic medals from 1920–36. TUL athletes participated in the Workers’ Olympics, which were held three times in the 1920s and 1930s, and Finland was the most successful country in these games. This may be the least known piece of trivia in sports-crazy Finland. Political struggles were also present within the TUL. The clubs and athletes who participated in the 1928 Spartakiad organized by the Soviet Union were suspended or banned from competition. The Winter War and a common enemy united the Finns, and in the games organized in July 1940 to memorialize the fallen, athletes from both associations participated. This did not, however, usher in an era of perfect bliss, because even in 1960, sending European champion boxer Olli Mäki to the Olympics would have required him resigning from the TUL. Mäki refused and went without a spot on the Olympic team. Later, Mäki also won the European championship as a professional and was the first Finn to fight in a world championship bout. During the Winter War, Finland made use of its sporting reputation by sending Paavo Nurmi, along with another great runner, Taisto Mäki, to tour the United States and collect money for the war effort. A convertible carried the pair down Broadway with thirty young women dressed in Finnish national costumes carrying a gigantic Finnish flag, onto which people threw money from the sidewalks and windows. 9
photo: Maija Astikainen / Helsinki Marketing
There are many places in Metropolitan area where you can try ice swimming. The photo is from Furuvik, Helsinki.
Into the Great Ice Open Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman
Yes, in Finland people swim outdoors
T
life. Ice swimming gives you what your body needs: either refreshment or relaxation, depending on what you need and how you feel.
in the winter. Ice swimming is both healthy and fun.
Come and join the fun!
here it is: the hole sawed in the ice that you’re supposed to jump into and swim – or at least take a dip. The sea stares back at you through that opening, black and cold, and not terribly inviting. But there’s nothing for it. Into the water you go! No point standing around shivering on the dock! Brrr...barely above freezing, at first the water takes your breath away, and even though more experienced bathers really do swim, a beginner climbs out almost as soon as he gets in. But as soon as you’re back on the dock, a pleasant feeling spreads over your whole body, maybe tingling here and there and leaving you a little breathless, but the air feels warm, and you can really feel the blood coursing through your veins full of hormones that make you feel euphoric and young again. Next you head to the sauna, where hot steam warms your arms and legs, and soon you’re sweating out all the cares and stress of daily
Ice swimming may sound a little extreme to some, but it continues to gain popularity in Finland. Every big city has several places where you can do it. And because Finland has 187,888 lakes in addition to the coastline, you can DIY it, too. Tanja Kortet of the Turku Winter Outdoor Swimmers Club says that their group alone has 750 members and they heat their sauna five days a week in the winter. It fits 60 people at a time and is often full. The sauna is mixed, but women and men have their own dressing rooms with lockers. There are also showers to wash the seawater away. Anyone can join in. All you need is a swimsuit and a towel. “If you want, you can wear slippers to insulate you from the cold or a cap and gloves, which let you stay in the water a little longer.” Most winter swimmers do have a sauna after being in the water, but some don’t sauna at all. “Some people like to swim without a sauna, which keeps the endorphins going all day! On the other hand, the sauna prolongs 10
the fun because you can take breaks to warm up. The variation between hot and cold makes you feel great,” says Kortet.
How about a nice little Sauna?
The most important thing is overcoming yourself In Southern Finland, the sea doesn’t always freeze at all anymore, but that doesn’t get in the way of ice swimming. The water temperature is more or less the same in the winter with or without ice – just above freezing. There’s actually been a linguistic change with ice swimming often being referred to as winter swimming these days. Even though the thought of swimming in ice-cold water may be startling, it isn’t dangerous. On the contrary, a healthy body can withstand the cold. But if you suffer from a heart condition, then you should consult a doctor before climbing in. Swimming alone is also not recommended. It’s always safer with a friend, since you never know when you might trip or slip. The cold also won’t give you the flu or any other illness, although if you intend to stay in the water a really long time, there is the danger of hypothermia. “That isn’t usually a problem, especially since beginners tend to ICE SWIMMING GIVES YOU get out of the water very quickly. WHAT YOUR BODY NEEDS: The most important thing in this EITHER REFRESHMENT OR sport is to listen to yourself and RELAXATION. swim as much as feels good,” says Kortet. Even though ice swimming is all about overcoming your own limitations, there are competitions. What else would you expect? In Finland, the race distance is usually 25 meters. The rules are a little different than in normal swim races, though. For example, you can’t put your head under the water when doing the breaststroke. “Right now, this is a pretty fashionable sport. Before it was mostly senior citizens, but now there are a lot of young people, too, especially students. The youngest competitor in the last Finnish championships was 2 years old, and the oldest was 88. The most active group is probably the 40–60 crowd, both men and women.”
In Metropolitan area you can find a variety of new and old public Saunas.
Allas Sea Pool Katajanokanlaituri 2a, Helsinki Allas Sea Pool is a marine spa at the heart of the city. It is open all year round, has three saunas, two warm water pools and one (filtered, clean) sea water pool. There is also an outdoor gym and restaurant & café -services.
Kotiharju Sauna Harjutorinkatu 1, Helsinki Kotiharjun Sauna is the last genuine wood-heated traditional public sauna in Helsinki – it is from 1928. Hardy washing ladies are still on hand to scrub your back should you wish, and massage, cupping and manicures and pedicures are also available by booking in advance. Washing available Sat at 16-19. Towels to rent.
Kuusijärvi Kuusijärventie 3, Vantaa Kuusijärvi is a popular all-season outdoor recreational center. Kuusijärvi offers the only traditional smoke saunas in Helsinki Metropolitan area open to public on regular basis. Swimming all year round.
Löyly
Ice swimming is healthy
photo: Roope Lipasti
The ancient ancestors of the Finns almost certainly practiced ice swimming, but in more recent times, ice swimming was related to treatments for rheumatism. Cold therapy was developed when it was found to alleviate pain. In addition to decreasing pain, the cold also increases the secretion of pleasure hormones. And that isn’t all. Kortet rattles off a long list of health benefits: regular ice swimming has a positive effect on mood and increases immune response. The cold enhances muscle recovery from exercise and also makes it easier to sleep. In addition, sauna lowers blood pressure after the cold temporarily raises it, but overall, the effect is lower blood pressure. Ice swimming is also a stress killer, it constricts peripheral blood circulation, and Tanja Kortet. noradrenaline makes you feel like you just won something! Dopamine and endorphins decrease symptoms of depression. “Of course, there’s also a social aspect, since ice swimming is usually something we do in a group. We sit in the sauna, we swim, and we chat with friends and strangers,” Kortet explains. And if that all isn’t enough, the cold also promotes fat burning as it speeds up the metabolism. Unfortunately, one swim hasn’t had much effect on the undersigned. s 11
Hernesaarenranta 4, Helsinki Public sauna and restaurant complex in Hernesaari. There is a traditional Finnish smoke sauna, two other wood-heated saunas, a year-round terrace and a restaurant. It is possible to take a swim in the sea.
Oittaa Recreation Centre Kunnarlantie 33-39, Espoo Sauna and swimming in Lake Bodom all year round.
Sauna Hermanni Hämeentie 63, Helsinki Sauna Hermanni is one of the three remaining public saunas in Helsinki serving its customers since 1953. The Iki-Kiuas stoves give a nice relaxing experience. The saunas are separate for women and men. Towels to rent. For more information: myhelsinki.fi and visitespoo.fi.
A MAP IN YOUR POCKET
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Hotels providing Metropolitan Times are marked on the map with numbered blue dots. The number of your hotel can be found from the list on page 14.
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© Helsingin, Espoon, Vantaan ja Kauniaisten kaupungit 2020
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MAP OF THE METROPOLITAN AREA
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Helsinki Helsinki became the capital of Finland in 1812. Back then, it was merely a village, although it was founded as early as 1550. Nowadays Helsinki has got 630,000 inhabitants and is the largest city in Finland. More information: myhelsinki.fi.
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Espoo The first mention of Espoo dates back to 1431, but it was not granted city rights until 1972. There are several centres in Espoo, of which Leppävaara is the largest. It is the second largest city in Finland with 275,000 inhabitants. More information: visitespoo.fi.
Vantaa Vantaa is Finland’s fourth largest and the oldest city in the capital region: the first mention of it dates back to 1352. Helsinki Airport is located in Vantaa. Just like Espoo, Vantaa has several centres. Inhabitants: 235,000. More information: visitvantaa.fi.
Kauniainen Kaunainen is the smallest commune in Finland with only six square kilometres and 9,600 inhabitants. It is surrounded by Espoo and renowned with its wealthy residents. More information: kauniainen.fi.
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Greater Metropolitan Area The metropolitan area and the municipalities or cities of Hyvinkää, Järvenpää, Kerava, Kirkkonummi, Nurmijärvi, Sipoo, Tuusula, Mäntsälä, Pornainen and Vihti form the greater metropolitan area with a population of about 1.4 million inhabitants. Together with the cities of Porvoo, Lohja and Riihimäki, the population of the greater metropolitan area rises to about 1,557,000.
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in these high standard Hotels & Hostels 01 Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo
10 Hotel Arthur
Tasetie 8, 01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 20 123 4605 www.sokoshotels.fi
Vuorikatu 19, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 173 441 www.hotelarthur.fi
02 Clarion Hotel Helsinki
11 Hotel Haaga Central Park
Tyynenmerenkatu 2, 00220 Helsinki Tel. +358 10 850 3820 www.nordicchoicehotels.com
Nuijamiestentie 10, 00320 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 580 7877 www.hotelhaaga.fi
03 Clarion Hotel Helsinki Airport
12 Hotel Helka
Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 4, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4608 www.sokoshotels.fi
Tietotie 5, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 850 3810 www.nordicchoicehotels.com
Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 613 580 www.hotelhelka.com
21 Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden
04 Forenom Apart Hotel Espoo Leppävaara
13 Hotel Hellsten Espoo
Porarinkatu 1, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com
05 Forenom Apart Hotel Helsinki City Eerikinkatu 24, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com
06 Forenom Hostel Helsinki Pitäjänmäki Kornetintie 10, 00380 Pitäjänmäki Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.com
07 Hilton Helsinki Airport Lentäjänkuja 1, 01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 9 732 20 www.hiltonhotels.com
photo: Ioannis Koulousis / Helsinki Marketing
08 Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa Kalastajatorpantie 1, 00330 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 458 11 www.hiltonhotels.com
09 Hilton Helsinki Strand
Porarinkatu 3, 02650 Espoo Tel. +358 9 511 051 www.hellstenhotels.fi
14 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Parliament Museokatu 18, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 511 0570 0 www.hellstenhotels.fi
15 Hotel Hellsten Helsinki Senate Kauppiaankatu 5, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 511 0524 3 www.hellstenhotels.fi
16 Hotel Korpilampi Espoo Korpilammentie 5, 02970 Espoo Tel. +358 9 613 8411 www.korpilampi.fi
17 Hotel Majvik Espoo Majvikintie 1, 02430 Masala Tel. +358 9 295 511 www.majvik.fi
18 Hämeenkylän Manor Juustenintie 1, 01630 Vantaa Tel. +358 10 540 8350 www.hameenkylankartano.fi
John Stenbergin ranta 4, 00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 393 51 www.hiltonhotels.com
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19 Original Sokos Hotel Albert Helsinki Albertinkatu 30, 00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4638 www.sokoshotels.fi
20 Original Sokos Hotel Presidentti
Tapionaukio 3, 02100 Espoo Tel. + 358 20 123 4616 www.sokoshotels.fi
22 Original Sokos Hotel Tripla Fredikanterassi 1 B, 00520, Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4611 www.sokoshotels.fi
23 Radisson Blu Hotel Espoo Otaranta 2, 02150 Espoo Tel. +358 20 123 4705 www.radissonblu.com
24 Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Ruoholahdenranta 3, 00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 20 123 4707 www.radissonblu.com
25 Scandic Espoo Nihtisillantie 1, 02630 Espoo Tel. +358 9 435 20 www.scandichotels.fi
26 Scandic Grand Marina Katajanokanlaituri 7, 00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 166 61 www.scandichotels.fi
27 Scandic Simonkenttä Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 68 380 www.scandichotels.fi
TALL SHIPS RACES THE
TURKU
5.–8.7.2021
TURKUWARDS HO! The Tall Ships Races returns to Turku in July 2021. Come visit the great sailing ships and the sights and activities of Turku and the archipelago. www.tallshipsturku.fi
photo: Jussi Hellsten
Moomin Philosophy for People of All Ages
Tove Jansson's first Moomin book was published 75 years ago. The National Museum of Finland is
currently hosting an exhibition on
the life philosophy of the Moomins.
W
hen you enter the National Museum of Finland’s Moomin exhibition, the very first thing you encounter is a small replica of Tove’s studio, which always has fresh yellow roses, the artist’s favorite, on the desk. And yes, to Finns she is Tove, not Jansson. We use her first name because she is familiar to everyone and just as approachable as the Moomins themselves. Tove was uncomplicated and friendly, a lover of everything beautiful and nice – dancing, parties, flowers, laughing. However, behind mundane, seemingly frivolous concerns can lie weighty and important values, and this is very much the case with the Moomin books. This is also the basis for the name of the exhibition: “Courage, Freedom, Love!”
Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman
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Taste of Scandinavia high above sea level Restaurant Haikaranpesä is located in Haukilahti, Espoo 76 meters above sea level. Restaurant has an amazing view over the Capital area and the Baltic Sea.
FIVE STAR TRANSPORT Download the HSL Mobile ticket app and enjoy the Nuuksio National Park and all the other sights in the Helsinki metropolitan area.
Our Scandinavian style lunch buffet is prepared from pure and seasonal ingredients.
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Open daily Monday - Friday 11-16 • Saturday - Sunday 12-18 Reservations: www.ravintolahaikaranpesa.fi
Download the HSL Mobile ticket app. Enter the required credit/debit card details. Select ‘Day ticket’ as the ticket type. Choose a travel zone and purchase a day ticket for 1 to 7 days.
Helsinki Region Transport
HAKANIEMI MARKETHALL Over 40 specialty stores for gift items, food and restaurants.
WELCOME TO EXPERIENCE UNIQUE SERVICES IN THE MAGNIFICENT MARKET HALL.
MON–SAT 8 am – 6 pm
photo: Jussi Hellsten
MOOMIN BOOKS GIVE VOICE TO DIFFERENT
Minerva Keltanen, head of exhibitions at the National Museum, says that the exhibition is a work of art of its own, a collage of the most important values of the Moomin universe: “The books focus on things like friendship, nature, and tolerance, which are also important values in Finnish society. That’s why we wanted to approach this exhibition this way, through values. This year is also an anniversary, because 75 years have passed since the publication of the first Moomin book. It was called the The Moomins and the Great Flood.”
PERSPECTIVES AND PERSONALITIES, BUT THEY ARE ALL UNITED BY AN APPRECIATION FOR EQUALITY AND DIVERSITY.
a nostalgic element; since most people read the books as children, the Moomins unite us Finns.” One unique thing about the Moomins is their positivity. There isn’t a single evil character in Moomin Valley. The Groke may be scary but is basically just lonely, like a lot of people who seem frightening in real life. Stinky, now...well, he tries to be a thief, but nothing much comes of it. “The Moomins are very universal and deeply humane, so they speak to people all over the world,” Keltanen says.
Equal but different The Moomins are timeless, but even so, Keltanen sees connections from the present day to that time 75 years ago: “Tove wrote the book in 1939, but it wasn't published until after the war in 1945. Just like when it was written, today we’re in a situation where many borders are closed, and freedom is not self-evident. For example, because of COVID-19, the importance of friendship and loved ones has increased. We’re remembering again what’s really important.” As the exhibition shows, the Moomin books give voice to different perspectives and personalities, but they are all united by an appreciation for equality and diversity. Everyone is always welcome at the Moominhouse, and its door – according to the song from the animated series – is never locked, even at night. The characters in Moomin Valley can be exactly who they are, all different and unique. Sniff is greedy but fearful. Moominpappa is the head of the family but a bit irresponsible. Moominmamma takes care of everything to the point of exhaustion. Snufkin is a good friend but is always leaving...and so forth. The residents of Moomin Valley have many different sides, just like people. And they learn and grow.
Seeking and finding The exhibition was put together by a working group that included Alexander Reichstein as artistic designer, as well as Sirke Happonen, who wrote her dissertation on the world of the Moomins, and Keltanen. The project manager was Aino-Maija Kaila. Like the books, the exhibition is also aimed at both children and adults. Quotations pulled from the Moomin books outline the Moomin philosophy, and Tove’s one-liners are second to none: “It’s easy to be brave if you're not afraid.” – Moominpappa “Everything fun is good for the stomach.” – Moominmamma
No evil at all
“Everything is very uncertain, which is what makes me calm.” – Too-ticky
Keltanen believes that it is precisely in this multidimensionality that the characters’ charm lies: “They have annoying traits, but they are also lovable. Children may see one aspect of the Moomins while adults see something else, and that’s probably one reason for their popularity – everyone can find something. For Finns, there is also
For children, the exhibition is full of things to see and discover. Admittedly, the coronavirus has had some impact on how interactive the exhibit is. For example, it would be fun to get to make signs telling us not to do things and then to burn them on a (play) campfire, which 18
photo: Jussi Hellsten
Did you know? The first Moomin illustration was drawn on the wall of the outhouse at the Janssons’ summer cottage in the early 1930s. Tove named it Snork. However, this character later developed into Moomin, changing along the way, and the Snork name was given to another character. Moomin was at his chubbiest in the 1954 drawings. That was around the time when Finland was finally recovering from the war, so maybe there was plenty to eat in Moomin Valley, too!
would grow and grow the more prohibitions it consumed. Moomin Valley is always a little anarchical! It’s also interesting to get a look at Tove’s studio bookshelves, which were bursting with art books and novels. And if you know which drawer to open, you might even find her dancing shoes. And of course, you can also get a peek into Moominmamma’s handbag, which is full of all sorts of useful things like wool socks and an egg, just in case someone gets hungry.
Tove Jansson
An important sea
Tove Jansson (1914–2001) was a visual artist, author, caricaturist, and cartoonist, who is best known as the creator of the Moomin characters. A total of 13 beloved Moomin books were published, and they have been translated into more than 50 languages. Tove Jansson is Finland's most translated author.
Of course, the exhibition also includes the Moominhouse, which was modeled after the Glosholm lighthouse off the coast of Porvoo, which has since been demolished. Near Porvoo you can also find Tove and her companion Tuulikki Pietilä’s summer spot, a rugged rock outcropping in the sea with no amenities – well, almost none: as the story goes, Tove would use her radiophone to order gin from the local village shop, which somehow worked even though in Finland you can't sell gin from a village shop. The sea was an important element for Tove in real life and in her Moomin books. It is a symbol of freedom, where you can swim and sail, but at the same time it is something no one can control. The sea is also prominent in the work of Tove’s role models. In illustration, she admired John Vauer and Elsa Beskow, but she also drew influences from elsewhere, for example from the famous sea painters William Turner and Hokusai in Japan. Tove considered herself a painter above all else, but even though she was an excellent artist, she will always be most remembered for the Moomins. They are so beloved that starting in 2020 her birthday, August 9, has been declared a national flag day. s
Designed by Eliel Saarinen, the National Museum of Finland was completed in 1910 and opened to the public in 1916. Its exterior is a free interpretation of architectural structures from different periods in Finland, including medieval churches and castles. At the same time, it is distinctively art nouveau. The museum presents the history of Finland from the Stone Age to the present, hosting rotating exhibitions in addition to permanent displays. The National Museum of Finland collections comprise approximately half a million objects.
photo: Roope Lipasti
"CHILDREN MAY
SEE ONE ASPECT
OF THE MOOMINS
WHILE ADULTS SEE SOMETHING ELSE"
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF FINLAND Mannerheimintie 34, Helsinki www.kansallismuseo.fi/en Opening hours Tue–Sun 11 am – 6 pm (Wed 11 am – 8 pm)
- MINERVA KELTANEN
The National Museum of Finland
The security measures due to the Coronavirus may affect the visitor services. Minerva Keltanen. 19
Laskettele Nuuksiossa! Swinghill - alamäessä jo yli 70-vuotta www.swinghill.fi
BREWERY
DISTILLERY
BAR
BEERS AND WHISKIES FROM OWN BREWERY AND DISTILLERY • KITCHEN OPEN TILL CLOSING TIME
TEERENPELI KAMPPI - OLAVINKATU 2 - WWW.TEERENPELI.COM
Get inspired by Tampere, just 1.5 hours from Helsinki by train. Here are a few tips to help you get started. Enjoy sauna and the winter nature Tampere invites you out! Walk up the Pyynikki ridge and enjoy the breathtaking views and peace of the Pyynikki nature reserve. The ultimate must-do thing in Tampere is ice swimming! Take a trip to sauna and jump into the frozen lake. Wintertime takes the fun to a whole new level with sled hills, ice skating, downhill or cross-country skiing. saunacapital.com
Experience the culture Tampere is quite possibly the most interesting museum city in Finland. Be a spy for a day in the Spy Museum, experience the olden days at the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas or Lenin Museum or dive right into the wonderful world of art at Sara Hildén Art Museum, Tampere Art Museum, Museum Centre Vapriikki... Also check out a host of events and festivals at visittampere.fi
Savor the food
Photos: Laura Vanzo
Join these weekly seasonal activities and more! • Tasting Tampere • Tampere kick bike tour • Canoeing on Lake Näsijärvi • Abseiling from Pyynikki observation tower • Tour skating on Lake Näsijärvi • Snowshoeing in Kauppi forest
Have a bite of Hungry for Tampere! Savor the tastes and atmosphere of this unique city and find your favorite foods and locations from its vast range of restaurants, everything from local foods and brewhouse cuisine to relaxed fine dining experiences. hungryfortampere.com
Explore with the family Tampere offers a lot of events and activities for your small adventurers year-round. Add a pinch of culture to your day by visiting the world’s only Moomin Museum or Tallipiha Stable Yards of Finlayson factory. Try laser tag and other fun games at ZBase or visit one of the city’s many intriguing escape rooms.
Check the current program and sign up at visittampere.fi/weekly-activities
Check out more at visittampere.fi
METROPOLITAN TIMES
COLUMN
Confessions of a Hotel
Room Writer Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman
B
elieve it or not, writing books isn’t always a bed of roses. In reality, there are only three nice moments: The first is the initial five minutes when you believe anything is possible! The second is when you finally get that damn millstone finished and off your neck. And then the final and most enjoyable time is made up of the events and celebrations when the book has been sent out into the world and hopefully finds its readers. This final point often involves hotels.
That is to say, as an author you get to travel around the country attending different events and visiting schools, libraries, and conventions, many of which are far away enough that you have the privilege and necessity of staying the night away from home. But no matter how tight the tour schedule or how much I have to work and slave to make a living, meaning talk, talk, talk, I still always think of every night in a hotel as a mini vacation. The momentary change of scenery from the room I usually sleep in can be amazingly satisfying! To get to sleep on a wide bed stretched out like a starfish, all alone. Of course, being at home is nice too – hi, honey, if you’re reading this – but the change can be refreshing. And then what about that breakfast! Is there any greater luxury than to have someone else make your breakfast, and a good, generous one at that? The last time that happened outside of a hotel, 22
photo: Envato
I always ask if the hotel has a room with a bathtub, and if it does,
I spend the rest of the night smiling.
Over the years, I’ve developed certain hotel routines. First, I always ask if the hotel has a room with a bathtub, and if it does, I spend the rest of the night smiling. I can get along without one, but a tub is a nice perk. The next thing I do after arriving at a hotel is to take a jog. Running is a great way to get to know a new area. This is a quick tool for getting the lay of the land. But the best comes last: sitting down in the tub after a run, enjoying a cold beverage, and reading a magazine, preferably something quality like the Economist. This really helps me get to the core of my personal snobbery, because what could be more luxurious! And to top it all off, it’s a luxury that doesn’t cost too much.
And I couldn’t if I wanted to, because at home there’s always something to do, whether it’s transporting a child to or from their activities, cleaning the kitchen, folding the laundry, working, or whatever. But in a hotel room, you can’t actually do much of anything, and that’s exactly why it’s such a perfect place. Granted, you can do some kinds of work, at least if you’re a writer. Just pick up your laptop and start typing. A hotel room is an excellent place for writing, since there are no distractions. Actually, a few times I’ve gone to a hotel for the express purpose of working, because a change of scenery can be useful. And it’s pretty nice at the end of the day to slip down to the lobby and have a drink like some kind of man of the world. A minute at the bar and you might start believing it yourself. s
A hotel room is also the perfect place for a little retreat, for recovering and having some quiet time. When you’ve spent the whole day speaking in a school, a night alone in your room is fantastic. Maybe you can go out to eat, too, but then get right back to the room. In a hotel room, you can be left in peace. No one demands anything, and no one bothers you. You can sit in bed in your underwear, scroll Facebook, read a book, or take a nap – the kind of outrageous indolence and anarchy that I never allow myself at home. 23
The author is a writer who usually lives a boring life in the countryside in an old farmhouse.
Photo: Riikka Kantinkoski
I was thirteen years old and my mom was in an uncharacteristically good mood. But her breakfasts never compared to any hotel breakfast.
Korkeasaari Zoo – near the city but far from the rush
Korkeasaari Zoo is uniquely located on an island in the Baltic Sea. It’s just outside the city, you can literally see the Helsinki Cathedral from the zoo. It takes only 20 minutes to get here by local bus (no 16) from the Railway Station. Meet animals from the Himalayas, Siberia, Mongolia, Finland and the Asian rainforest – more than 150 species in total – while enjoying the silence and peace of the Finnish nature surrounding you.
Animals who are not afraid of cold It is not a coincidence that the snow leopard’s only bare spot is the tip of its nose or that the snowy owl is white and fluffy. Animals have their ways to adapt to cold climates. At Korkeasaari Zoo we want our large animals to enjoy outdoor life throughout the year. Therefore, instead of seeing a giraffe or a hippo, you will see a wolverine, a forest reindeer, an Amur tiger and a Bactrian camel – all species adapted to extreme winter. On a windy day, follow suit from the animals and dress warmly. If it gets too chilly, take refuge in the warm tropical houses.
To visit Korkeasaari Zoo is to act for nature Our mission is to conserve biodiversity. We want our visitors to value the importance of biodiversity and aim to motivate behavior change for conservation. In cooperation with other modern zoos, we breed endangered species to maintain a healthy and viable zoo population. Zoo populations have already saved various species from extinction. In order to support our mission in protecting wild animals and their natural habitats, we donate annually to various field conservation projects. Bring your coins and donate to the project of your choice. By visiting Korkeasaari Zoo, you support our work as defenders of biodiversity and endangered species. Korkeasaari Zoo is open every day of the year, even on Christmas. There is a restaurant on the island, or you can bring your own food. You’ll find a free map at the entrance to guide you through your visit. Check the opening hours on www.korkeasaari.fi
From zoos to the wild Do you know what European bison, bearded vulture, European forest reindeer and Przewalski´s wild horse have in common? All these species have been lost from the wild locally or globally, and brought back from extinction with the help of zoos, Korkeasaari Zoo among them.