Tampere Times 2/2020 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

2/ 202 0

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE Into the great ice open Page 8

Citius, Altius, Politicus Page 12

How Tove Jansson wrote the Finnish landscape into the Moomin books Page 18

A column by Roope Lipasti

please leave this magazine for the next guest â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thank you!

Confessions of a hotel room writer Page 24

Get inspired by Tampere! Here are few tips to help you get started.

Enjoy sauna and the winter nature Tampere invites you out! Walk up the Pyynikki ridge and enjoy the breathtaking views and peace of the Pyynikki nature reserve all year round. The ultimate must-do thing in Tampere is winter swimming! Take a trip to to one of our many public saunas and jump into the frozen lake. Wintertime takes the fun to a whole new level with sled hills, ice skating, downhill or cross-country skiing. saunacapital.com

Experience the culture Tampere is quite possibly the most interesting museum city in Finland. Be a spy for a day in the Spy Museum, experience the olden days at the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas or Lenin Museum or dive right into the wonderful world of art at Sara Hildén Art Museum, Tampere Art Museum, Museum Centre Vapriikki... Also check out a host of events and festivals at visittampere.fi

Explore with the family

Photos: Laura Vanzo

Tampere offers a lot of events and activities for your small adventurers year-round. Add a pinch of culture to your day by visiting the world’s only Moomin Museum or Tallipiha Stable Yards of Finlayson factory. Try laser tag and other fun games at ZBase or visit one of the city’s many intriguing escape rooms.

Join these weekly seasonal activities and more! • Tasting Tampere • Tampere kick bike tour • Canoeing on Lake Näsijärvi • Abseiling from Pyynikki observation tower • Tour skating on Lake Näsijärvi • Snowshoeing in Kauppi forest Check the current program and sign up at visittampere.fi/weekly-activities

Savor the food Have a bite of Hungry for Tampere! Savor the tastes and atmosphere of this unique city and find your favorite foods and locations from its vast range of restaurants, everything from local foods and brewhouse cuisine to relaxed fine dining experiences. hungryfortampere.com

Check out more at visittampere.fi

CONTENTS Tampere – Socially close culture city 6 Into the great ice open 8 Tampere in a nutshell 10 Citius, Altius, Politicus 12 Map of Tampere 14 Hotels & hostels providing Tampere Times 16 How Tove Jansson wrote the Finnish landscape into the Moomin books 18 Confessions of a hotel room writer – Column by Roope Lipasti 24

Tampere Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2020 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.tamperetimes.fi ISSN 2343-3817 (print) ISSN 2669-8293 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor in chief Roope Lipasti Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos Pyynikki square. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere River bank. Photo: Petri Kivinen / Visit Tampere Swimming in the winter. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Tammerkoski. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Roope Lipasti. Photo: Riikka Kantinkoski

Tampere Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.tamperetimes.fi Tampere Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Tampere (see page 16). The next issue will be out in April 2021. 4

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The year 2020 was supposed to be the

of Culture initiative is a way for the European Union to support European cultural diversity. The focus of ECOC 2026 Tampere is on the theme: Bridge over Troubled Water. Why do Tampere and the Tampere Region want to become a European Capital of Culture? Because we cherish our values and want to improve the quality of lives of friends, our visitors, and ourselves. Our mission is to remind ourselves and each other to take care of other people as equals, like taking care of ourselves and promoting human presence and interaction in global digitalization. Our objective is to fight against climate change and fight for sustainability and future generations. To ensure the beautiful nature and means to enjoy it, we are working ambitiously towards our climate goal to be a carbon-neutral city by 2030. We are developing our infrastructure and constructing plenty of new to ensure your visit is worthwhile even in the future. We are getting new shapes to our skyline, creating more services, possibilities to live and work in Tampere, and looking into ways to include ecological and sustainable new approaches and technologies as a part of our operations. Tampere has an optimal location at the crossroads of Finland's logistics routes, the most important highways, and railways. Several major mobility projects and logistics projects are underway in the city region, such as constructing the tramway and developing the main rail line. The most modern public transport in Finland, the Tampere tram, will start operating in August 2021! We welcome you to experience Tampere in a new way, safely yet uniquely. s

glorious beginning of the new decade.

The era of sustainability and prosperity. Little did we know?

Like life in general, the future holds new paths for us, as individuals, communities, and societies. The year 2020 has adjusted our expectations, our hopes, and dreams to the new normal. It entails closeness in ways we did not expect to experience the culture, music, communication, and proximity. The global COVID-pandemic has reminded us of our fragility. However, climate change, shortage of freshwater, and global crises are also here â&#x20AC;&#x201D; these issues we have to solve. The best way to do that is to find global solutions to global problems. The technological advantages became the new everyday life, the norm. They have brought us socially closer while maintaining a physical distance. Since the beginning of our story over 241 years ago, Tampere has seen the many phases of history. We have grown from a cotton factory town into a modern capital of culture in Finland. We aim to strengthen our role as a culturally rich university town. We are very proud to be the city of events. The history of Tampere moves back and forth between edge and equality. The power of the rapid and the availability of the workforce attracted the cotton mill to Tampere. The industry born from international expertise has made Tampere a wealthy city with diverse cultural life. The prosperity of Tampere has flourished wealth all around the Tampere Region. The city has historical merits to become the Capital of Equality. However, what could this mean now and in the future? We take care of the Tampere Region's equality, all citizens' rights, and culture accessibility. We want to become the international forerunner and advocate of all forms of equality, and set an example for Europe. Thus, Tampere and the whole Tampere Region are resilient. We have decided to apply to become the next European center of culture because we want to increase our residents' well-being and boost the region's vitality in the long term. The European Capitals

Lauri Lyly mayor of tampere

photo: Kimmo Torkkeli

Tampere Socially close culture city

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Ice swimming at Rauhaniemi.

Into the great ice open

Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman

Yes, in Finland people swim outdoors in the winter. Ice swimming is both healthy and fun.

here it is: the hole sawed in the ice that you’re supposed to jump into and swim – or at least take a dip. The sea stares back at you through that opening, black and cold, and not terribly inviting. But there’s nothing for it. Into the water you go! No point standing around shivering on the dock! Brrr...barely above freezing, at first the water takes your breath away, and even though more experienced bathers really do swim, a beginner climbs out almost as soon as he gets in. But as soon as you’re back on the dock, a pleasant feeling spreads over your whole body, maybe tingling here and there and leaving you a little breathless, but the air feels warm, and you can really feel the blood coursing through your veins full of hormones that make you feel euphoric and young again. 8

Next you head to the sauna, where hot steam warms your arms and legs, and soon you’re sweating out all the cares and stress of daily life. Ice swimming gives you what your body needs: either refreshment or relaxation, depending on what you need and how you feel.

was 2 years old, and the oldest was 88. The most active group is probably the 40–60 crowd, both men and women.” Ice swimming is healthy

Come and join the fun!

photo: Roope Lipasti

The ancient ancestors of the Finns almost certainly practiced ice swimming, but in more recent times, ice swimming was related to Ice swimming may sound a little extreme treatments for rheumatism. Cold therapy was to some, but it continues to gain popularity developed when it was found to alleviate pain. ICE SWIMMING GIVES YOU in Finland. Every big city has several places In addition to decreasing pain, the cold also WHAT YOUR BODY NEEDS: where you can do it. And because Finland increases the secretion of pleasure hormones. EITHER REFRESHMENT OR has 187,888 lakes in addition to the coastline, And that isn’t all. Kortet rattles off a long RELAXATION. you can DIY it, too. list of health benefits: regular ice swimming Tanja Kortet of the Turku Winter Outdoor has a positive effect on mood and increases Swimmers Club says that their group alone has 750 members and immune response. The cold enhances muscle recovery from exercise they heat their sauna five days a week in the winter. It fits 60 people and also makes it easier to sleep. In addition, sauna lowers blood at a time and is often full. The sauna is mixed, but women and men pressure after the cold temporarily raises it, but overall, the effect is have their own dressing rooms with lockers. There are also showers lower blood pressure. Ice swimming is also a stress killer, it constricts to wash the seawater away. peripheral blood circulation, and noradrenaline makes you feel Anyone can join in. All you need is a swimsuit and a towel. like you just won something! Dopamine and endorphins decrease “If you want, you can wear slippers to insulate you from the cold symptoms of depression. Tanja Kortet. or a cap and gloves, which let you stay in the water a little longer.” “Of course, there’s also a social Most winter swimmers do have a sauna after being in the water, aspect, since ice swimming is but some don’t sauna at all. usually something we do in a “Some people like to swim without a sauna, which keeps the group. We sit in the sauna, we endorphins going all day! On the other hand, the sauna prolongs the swim, and we chat with friends fun because you can take breaks to warm up. The variation between and strangers,” Kortet explains. hot and cold makes you feel great,” says Kortet. And if that all isn’t enough, the cold also promotes fat burning as it speeds up the The most important thing is metabolism. Unfortunately, one overcoming yourself swim hasn’t had much effect on the undersigned. s In Southern Finland, the sea doesn’t always freeze at all anymore, but that doesn’t get in the way of ice swimming. The water temperature is more or less the same in the winter with or without ice – just above Tampere is the Sauna Capital freezing. There’s actually been a linguistic change with ice swimming of the World often being referred to as winter swimming these days. Even though the thought of swimming in ice-cold water may Tampere has the largest number of public saunas in be startling, it isn’t dangerous. On the contrary, a healthy body can Finland. Here are few of them: withstand the cold. But if you suffer from a heart condition, then Rajaportti sauna is the oldest still existing public you should consult a doctor before climbing in. Swimming alone is sauna in Finland. It is from the year 1906 and is located also not recommended. It’s always safer with a friend, since you never in beautiful Pispala. know when you might trip or slip. The cold also won’t give you the If you want to go swimming also – even in winter – try flu or any other illness, although if you intend to stay in the water a Rauhaniemi or Kaupinoja sauna. really long time, there is the danger of hypothermia. In Tohloppi and in Hervanta, you can get an unique “That isn’t usually a problem, especially since beginners tend to get experience in delightful, portable “sauna cottages” out of the water very quickly. The most important thing in this sport by the lake. is to listen to yourself and swim as much as feels good,” says Kortet. At Sauna Restaurant Kuuma you can have both sauna Even though ice swimming is all about overcoming your own and a good meal – and try winter swimming too. limitations, there are competitions. What else would you expect? In For true exotic experience we recommend traditional Finland, the race distance is usually 25 meters. The rules are a little smoke sauna. One is in Niemi-Kapee in Teisko. Smoke different than in normal swim races, though. For example, you can’t sauna is available a couple of times a month, all year round. put your head under the water when doing the breaststroke. “Right now, this is a pretty fashionable sport. Before it was mostly For more information: senior citizens, but now there are a lot of young people, too, especially visittampere.fi students. The youngest competitor in the last Finnish championships 9

Tampere

1820

in a nutshell

A Scotsman called James Finlayson set up a cotton factory near the Tampere Rapids. It was the first but not last major factory in the remarkable industrial history of Tampere. Finlayson still is a brand every Finn knows. Also from that time on the use of waterpower from Tampere Rapids became important.

1840

Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman

From the 1840’s Tampere became the most industrialised city in Finland. Soon there were factories that made iron, paper, machinery, clothes, shoes and many other things. Even to this day Tampere is sometimes called “Manse” which comes from the saying that Tampere is the Manchester of Finland.

8000 BC The connection to ocean from the Tampere region was cut when the ice age was finally over. As the ice melted, the land rose up and the lakes were born – also Näsijärvi and Pyhäjärvi, and little later the Tampere Rapids. A must see attraction from the ice age is Pyynikki, a 90 hectare ridge area, which is almost in the centre of the city. From there are marvellous views to lake Pyhäjärvi. It is also a beautiful place for other outdoor activities.

1901 Tampere is also a theatre city. The first one, Tampereen Työväen Teatteri – The Tampere Workers Theatre – was established 1901. In 2020 there are over 10 professional theatres in the area.

1918

600 Tampere was an ideal place to build a village, because there were good waterways to both north and south. The first signs of permanent living in the area are from the 7th century.

In 1918 Finland was torn by a civil war with two sides: the “reds” and the “whites”. Tampere as a working class city sided with the reds (who lost). Tampere saw severe battles, thousands died in war efforts and even more in prison camps.

1200

1939–1945

By the 13th century Tampere region had grown, and it was an important market place. It was inhabited by the Pirkka tribe and even today the Tampere province is called Pirkanmaa, “The land of the Pirkka”.

Finland was in war against Russia, and Tampere was an important centre of war industry. For example Tampella made mortars and cannons. Tampere was also bombed, but there was little damage.

1638

1971

Tampere was not yet an actual city, but in 1638 Finland’s governor Per Brahe ordered two yearly fairs to be held at the the Tampere Rapids. That’s why Turku – the then capital of Finland – and Tampere have got a special connections of fates, for when the whole city of Turku burned in 1827, the damage was so severe partly because all the men from Turku happened to be at the Tampere fair.

Näsinneula, the high tower that Tampere is famous for, was built. Few years later The Särkänniemi Amusement Park opened its doors.

1990 During the 90’s the heavy industry of Tampere was in trouble. One reason was the collapse of Soviet Union, but all and all the world was changing. The chimneys were no longer active, and the factories shut down. Nowadays they are renovated for apartments, museums and such. Industry in today’s Tampere in mostly high tech.

1779 The King Gustav III of Sweden finally granted Tampere the full township status. And no wonder, because Tampere was huge: 3.2 square kilometres with population of no less than 200!

2020 Tampere is the third biggest city in Finland, with over 235,000 inhabitants in the city region. It has four universities and a very vivid cultural life. Tampere is also a city of vision and courage: the brand new tramway is a good example of that! s

1824

photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

The beautiful old church of Tampere was built. The architect was Charles Bassi.

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Finland's Hannes Kolehmainen breaks the tape to win gold in men's 5000m final in a new world record time of 14min 36.6 from France's Jean Bouin, who took silver in Stockholm Olympic Games 1912.

Citius, Altius, Politicus Sports and politics have always been closely

intertwined, and Finland has been more involved in this than many of its residents might think.

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Owen F. Witesman

he statement “we need to keep politics out of sports” often really means “human rights are a luxury we don’t have the time or resources for.” This kind of thinking has been used to justify granting major events to dictatorships and maintaining connections with sports programs in repressive states. In Finland, this subject recently hit the headlines again due to the situation in Belarus, where citizens took to the streets to demand the resignation of President Alexander Lukashenko following a fraudulent election. As these events began to unfold, the international hockey community began to discuss whether the 2021 Ice Hockey World Championships could be held in Belarus. Problems deepened as the opening game of the Kontinental Hockey League (KHL) season approached, since the Helsinki Jokerit were set to play in Belarus. At first it seemed as if the team really was going to play, but in the end the Jokerit agreed to cancel the match at the last moment (on the actual day). In Russia, the Jokerit were accused of insulting the league and mixing politics with sports, which is of course absurd on its face since the whole KHL is a political project by Russia and Putin. The connections between sports and politics were familiar to Finns long before this autumn. Finland entered the sporting world’s consciousness at the Stockholm Olympics in 1912. The country was still a part of Russia at the time but received special permission to field its own team, as did a few other dependent countries. Because Finland was not allowed to use its own 12

photo: Alexander Zemlianichenko / AFP / Lehtikuva

flag, the team entered the stadium during the opening ceremonies During the Cold War, Finland tried to walk a tightrope of neutrality under the white and blue banner of the Helsinki Gymnastics Club. between East and West. One polite way of describing this policy of However, the flag raised during the medal ceremony was Russian, as restraint was that Finland preferred to be a doctor than a judge. Hannes Kolehmainen, who won three gold medals, remembered This was also evident in sports, with Finland steering clear of the with bitterness: “I almost would have rather lost than been forced Olympic boycotts of Moscow and Los Angeles. From the perspective to look at that flag.” of competitive success, the latter was particularly beneficial for A British politician, Olympic medalist and Nobel Peace Prize Finland: Arto Härkönen took the gold in javelin with a throw of winner, Philip Noel-Baker disagreed: “That flag was forgotten instantly, 86.76 meters even though the world record from the same year was but his brilliant battle with Bouin made a decisive contribution to 104.80 m (Uwe Hohn), and Juha Tiainen won the hammer despite Finland’s independence.” his winning throw of 78.08 m was Because of their success, the more than 3.5 meters shorter than “I ALMOST WOULD HAVE RATHER LOST THAN Finnish team received ample Yuriy Sedkyh’s four years earlier. column space in newspapers Nowadays the world is BEEN FORCED TO LOOK AT THAT FLAG.” around the world, for example different, and more and more – HANNES KOLEHMAINEN in the prestigious Sporting Life people want to take a stand and magazine, which expressed its show their support for the weak admiration in this unique way: “Among the athletes, the Finns and oppressed. “Racism is a huge problem, and silence is not an attracted the most attention with their strangely shaped skulls. A option,” said Finland national football team captain Tim Sparv after small but amazing team.” the team knelt before a Nations League match at Wales to show their However, as has happened many times since, the international support for the Black Lives Matter movement. attention and empathy afforded to an oppressed people at the Games Still, sometimes it feels like there is nothing new under the sun: was soon forgotten, and Russia tightened its grip. Finland’s special In AD 67, Nero participated in the ancient Olympic chariot race, status was rescinded, and Finns who headed for the 1916 Berlin where he was declared victor even though he didn’t even cross the Olympics would have had to compete as part of the Russian team. finish line. In 2019, President Putin scored eight goals in a charity However, the World War put a stop to the Games, and the Finnish match featuring former top Russian hockey stars. According to the athletes were not forced to choose between their ambitions and Reuters news agency, “[p]laying center forward, Putin was provided their dignity. with plenty of scoring opportunities by his linemates and was met with little resistance by the opposing team’s defense.” s After the bloody civil war that followed independence in 1918, the Finnish Gymnastics and Sports Association (SVUL) ejected all of the Russian President Vladimir Putin and Belarusian President Alexander clubs that had fought on the Red side in the civil war, who formed Lukashenko (not in picture) take part in an ice hockey match at Rosa Khutor outside the Black Sea resort of Sochi on February 2020 as part of Lukashenko's the Workers’ Sports Association (TUL) the following year. SVUL visit to Russia. chose Finland’s representatives for the Olympics, and those who switched associations in pursuit of their Olympic dreams added to the bitterness between the camps. These “turncoats” brought Finland 23 of our 140 Olympic medals from 1920–36. TUL athletes participated in the Workers’ Olympics, which were held three times in the 1920s and 1930s, and Finland was the most successful country in these games. This may be the least known piece of trivia in sports-crazy Finland. Political struggles were also present within the TUL. The clubs and athletes who participated in the 1928 Spartakiad organized by the Soviet Union were suspended or banned from competition. The Winter War and a common enemy united the Finns, and in the games organized in July 1940 to memorialize the fallen, athletes from both associations participated. This did not, however, usher in an era of perfect bliss, because even in 1960, sending European champion boxer Olli Mäki to the Olympics would have required him resigning from the TUL. Mäki refused and went without a spot on the Olympic team. Later, Mäki also won the European championship as a professional and was the first Finn to fight in a world championship bout. During the Winter War, Finland made use of its sporting reputation by sending Paavo Nurmi, along with another great runner, Taisto Mäki, to tour the United States and collect money for the war effort. A convertible carried the pair down Broadway with thirty young women dressed in Finnish national costumes carrying a gigantic Finnish flag, onto which people threw money from the sidewalks and windows. 13

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01 Courtyard by Marriott Tampere City Hotel Yliopistonkatu 57, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 29 357 5700 www.marriott.com

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03 Forenom Aparthotel Tampere City Hämeenkatu 28, 33200 Tampere Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.fi

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photo: Jari Kuusenaho ©Moomin CharactersTM

From seaside summer

to frosty white winter:

How Tove

Jansson wrote the Finnish

landscape into

the Moomin books

Written by Riikka Kuittinen

Tove Jansson’s illustration for Moominland Midwinter, 1957. Moomin Museum, Tampere Art Museum Moominvalley Collection

lthough the Moominvalley is a fictional location, visitors to Finland may find familiar echoes in the landscape. Inspired by her surroundings, the author and artist Tove Jansson (1914–2001) drew and wrote Finnish nature into the land of the Moomins. She wrapped the stories around the distinctive Nordic seasons and the seaside settings inspired by the Baltic Sea. Jansson spent summers on an island off the Finnish coast, and returned to central Helsinki in the autumn. The Moomin books are by no means the only Jansson works in which nature plays an important part. For example, the classic Summer Book (1972) is set on a rugged island. Winds from the sea, the rocky shorelines and sparkling horizons spring vividly to life in Jansson’s words and art, which form the basis of the Moomin Museum permanent exhibition. 2020 is the anniversary of the publication of the first Moomin book, The Moomins and the Great Flood (1945). The scenery of the book is less Nordic and more whimsical. The characters are thrown into an action-packed adventure among dangerous swampland, enormous flowers and a dense jungle. After the second book, Comet

in Moominland (1946), the surroundings evolved into something more recognisably Nordic. The Moomin characters themselves also changed from thinner, long-snouted trolls into the round-faced cuddly Moomins we recognise today. The visual language of the landscapes evolved similarly into something more domestic and friendly. Visitors to the Moomin Museum may be startled at the beginning of their journey through the museum – they may not recognise the early troll characters as the Moomins. Day after day the sun beat down on the little valley lying hidden between the hills. The small creeping things hid themselves in the cool darkness; the birds were silent, and Moomintroll and his friends got peevish and quarrelled amongst themselves. (Finn Family Moomintroll, 1948) The third book, Finn Family Moomintroll (1948) takes us to the lush green Finnish summer, with a drowsy July heatwave, dark thunderstorms and crashing sea waves. Moominsummer Madness (1954) is set in Midsummer, the time of year without nightfall. Midsummer 18

LET´S PLAY AT VAPRIIKKI Laura Vanzo, Visit Tampere

The Finnish Museum of Games is focused on experiences: visitors can try the games in their authentic environments. There are more than 100 games on display, and 60 of them can be played. ALAVERSTAANRAITTI 5, TAMPERE TEL. 03 5656 6966 | 13/6¤ OPEN TUES–SUN 10–18 VAPRIIKKI.FI/EN

Helene Schjerfbeck, The Red-Haired Girl II, 1915.

ART | ARCHITECTURE | HISTORY | CUISINE GLAMOUR – FAMOUS GOWNS OF THE SILVER SCREEN Awarded costumes from world-famous films until 10 Jan ARTISTS AND MODELS Canadian artist Rodney Graham who is best known for his monumental photographic self-portraits until 18 Apr HOW ABOUT THE FUTURE? Nanna Hänninen addresses themes of insecurity and otherness as well as climate change until 7 Mar PROCEDURAL MEMORY The viewer is an integral part of Petri Eskelinen’s moving sculptures. He also participates in a discussion of the plants’ ability to think until 7 Mar

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ARRIVAL IN MÄNTTÄ

CLASSIC WORKS OF FINE ART AT THE MANOR stylish collection hanging with masters like Helene Schjerfbeck, Akseli Gallen-Kallela, Hugo Simberg and Anselm Kiefer from the Gösta Serlachius Fine Art Foundtion’s collection. BEHIND THE PULP GATE The exterior of a pulp mill is familiar to many people. But what happens inside the mill? PAPER DEVIL The exhibition offers an intensely dramatized and visual experience of the life and business affairs of mill owner Gustaf Adolf Serlachius.

Serlachius Museum Gösta 12.25 pm Serlachius Museum Gustaf 12.35 pm

DEPARTURE FROM MÄNTTÄ

Serlachius Museum Gösta 5.20 pm Serlachius Museum Gustaf 5.30 pm

ARRIVAL IN TAMPERE

Tampere railway station 6.45 pm Tampere bus station 6.50 pm

TAKE A BREAK AT RESTAURANT GÖSTA FOR SOME CULINARY PLEASURES! MÄNTTÄ | SERLACHIUS.FI | RAVINTOLAGOSTA.FI | +358 3 488 6800 Rodney Graham, Newspaper Man, 2016. Museum Frieder Burda, Baden–Baden. Photo: Rodney Graham

Tove Jansson’s cover illustration for Moumine le Troll (Finn Family Moomintroll), 1968. Moomin Museum, Tampere Art Museum Moominvalley Collection.

has traditionally been thought of as magical and unusual. The surreal turns in the story see Hattifatteners growing from seeds and an entire theatre floating in floodwaters. The sun had set, but now in June there was of course no darkness at night to speak of. The night was pale and dreamy and full of magic. (Moominsummer Madness 1954) After a summer of adventures, lighting the lamp at the Moomin house marks the beginning of autumn. It is the season for making preserves and collecting mushrooms, although Little My may pick some poisonous ones on purpose. Jansson describes the quiet atmosphere of late autumn in Moominvalley in November (1971): The forest was heavy with rain and the trees were absolutely motionless. Everything had withered and died, but right down on the ground the late autumn’s secret garden was growing with great vigour straight out of the mouldering earth, a strange vegetation of puffed up plants that had nothing to do with summer. (Moominvalley in November, 1971)

The Moomins usually sleep through the cold winter with their bellies full of pine needles. They only wake up in the spring, unless their slumber is disrupted. In the short story The Fir Tree (1962), the Moomin family is in deep sleep until they are woken up by a Hemulen, terribly stressed about Christmas. The Moomins begin to worry – perhaps Christmas is something scary? The story ends happily with tiny Woodies enjoying the loveliest Christmas they have ever had. They looked at the sky, black and distant but unbelievably full of stars, a thousand times more than in summer. And the biggest one was hanging exactly above the top of their fir tree. (The Fir Tree, 1962) In Moominland Midwinter (1957), Moomintroll wakes up in the frosty darkness while his family sleeps. He does not like winter one bit at first, too cold and lonely! Eventually he grows to like it, and finds beauty in an unfamiliar setting. The valley looked as strange as a moonscape. The drifts were enormous, rounded heaps or beautifully curved ridges with edges sharp as knives. Every single twig in the wood carried a large snowcap. The trees looked most of all like big pastry cakes made by a very fanciful confectioner. (Moominland Midwinter, 1957)

In the book, the Moomin family is away while other characters, including Snufkin, Fillyjonk and Grandpa Grumble, live in their house. The temporary residents settle into a November routine of quietly pottering around, making coffee and having naps. Mymble, getting cosy in the Moomin home, is surely an expert in hygge:

Moominland Midwinter ends with spring sunrays waking up the sleepy Moominvalley, ready for new adventures.

The November day moved slowly toward twilight. Mymble crept in under the eiderdown, stretched her long legs until they cracked and curled her toes around the hot-water bottle. It was raining outside. (Moominvalley in November, 1971)

This day the spring had decided to be not poetical but simply cheerful. It had spread flocks of small scatterbrained clouds in the sky; it swept down the last specks of snow from every roof; it made new little brooks everywhere and it was playing at April the best it could. (Moominland Midwinter, 1957) 20

Photo: Jari Kuusenaho

Tove Jansson spent her summers by the sea, and this inspiration underpins many of the stories. Moominpappa describes loving the sea as being a very “Moominous” quality. This theme is explored in the museum’s current exhibition Moomins and the Sea, open now until end of January 2021. The Moomin Museum joins #OURSEA campaign, launched by Moomin Characters and John Nurminen Foundation. The aim of the campaign is to increase awareness of the condition of the Baltic Sea and raise one million euros for John Nurminen Foundation’s work to protect the Baltic Sea and its heritage. Moomins and the Sea explores the Moomins’ nature-loving lifestyle through a selection of Jansson’s original illustrations from the Moomin Museum collection. Maritime themes weave through many Moomin tales, and the sea defines the contours of Moominvalley just as the

Baltic Sea draws the outlines of Finland. Moomin characters embark on adventurous sea voyages and enjoy picnics on rocky shores. In Jansson’s stories and illustrations, the wide-open sea glistens on the distant horizon as an ever-present companion, almost like one of the living characters in the books. The Moomins eat, live, and travel in harmony with the environment. Their simple lifestyle is kind to the earth and the sea. Like the Moomins, we can all consider nature in our daily choices, and everyone can do their bit to help protect the Baltic Sea. After all, the sea is made up of many small waterdrops. “The island is alive,” Moominpappa thought. “My island is just as much alive as the trees and the sea. Everything is alive.” (Moominpappa at Sea, 1965) s

MOOMINS AND THE SEA EXHIBITION IS OPEN UNTIL 31ST OF JANUARY 2021. For more information about #OURSEA, see https://oursea.fi/ The Moomin Museum is a Travelers’ Choice Winner 2020 by Tripadvisor. Please note: The Museum closes for building works on the 22nd of March 2021. Open again to the public on the 17th of April. The Moomin Museum opening hours: Tue – Wed 9am – 5pm / Thu – Fri 9am – 7pm / Sat – Sun 10am – 5pm The museum is closed on Mondays. Please note that the museum is closed for some holidays. For details, see: www.muumimuseo.fi/en/visit-us/info/ The Moomin Museum online: www.muumimuseo.fi/en Facebook: moominmuseum Instagram: @moominmuseum Twitter: @moominmuseum SEE

ON MAP (PAGE 15).

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elieve it or not, writing books isn’t always a bed of roses. In reality, there are only three nice moments: The first is the initial five minutes when you believe anything is possible! The second is when you finally get that damn millstone finished and off your neck. And then the final and most enjoyable time is made up of the events and celebrations when the book has been sent out into the world and hopefully finds its readers. This final point often involves hotels.

That is to say, as an author you get to travel around the country attending different events and visiting schools, libraries, and conventions, many of which are far away enough that you have the privilege and necessity of staying the night away from home. But no matter how tight the tour schedule or how much I have to work and slave to make a living, meaning talk, talk, talk, I still always think of every night in a hotel as a mini vacation. The momentary change of scenery from the room I usually sleep in can be amazingly satisfying! To get to sleep on a wide bed stretched out like a starfish, all alone. Of course, being at home is nice too – hi, honey, if you’re reading this – but the change can be refreshing. And then what about that breakfast! Is there any greater luxury than to have someone else make your breakfast, and a good, generous one at that? The last time that happened outside of a hotel, I was thirteen years old and my mom was in an uncharacteristically good mood. But her breakfasts never compared to any hotel breakfast.

Written by Roope Lipasti Translated by Owen F. Witesman

quality like the Economist. This really helps me get to the core of my personal snobbery, because what could be more luxurious! And to top it all off, it’s a luxury that doesn’t cost too much. A hotel room is also the perfect place for a little retreat, for recovering and having some quiet time. When you’ve spent the whole day speaking in a school, a night alone in your room is fantastic. Maybe you can go out to eat, too, but then get right back to the room. In a hotel room, you can be left in peace. No one demands anything, and no one bothers you. You can sit in bed in your underwear, scroll Facebook, read a book, or take a nap – the kind of outrageous indolence and anarchy that I never allow myself at home. And I couldn’t if I wanted to, because at home there’s always something to do, whether it’s transporting a child to or from their activities, cleaning the kitchen, folding the laundry, working, or whatever. But in a hotel room, you can’t actually do much of anything, and that’s exactly why it’s such a perfect place. Granted, you can do some kinds of work, at least if you’re a writer. Just pick up your laptop and start typing. A hotel room is an excellent place for writing, since there are no distractions. Actually, a few times I’ve gone to a hotel for the express purpose of working, because a change of scenery can be useful. And it’s pretty nice at the end of the day to slip down to the lobby and have a drink like some kind of man of the world. A minute at the bar and you might start believing it yourself. s

Over the years, I’ve developed certain hotel routines. First, I always ask if the hotel has a room with a bathtub, and if it does, I spend the rest of the night smiling. I can get along without one, but a tub is a nice perk. The next thing I do after arriving at a hotel is to take a jog. Running is a great way to get to know a new area. This is a quick tool for getting the lay of the land. But the best comes last: sitting down in the tub after a run, enjoying a cold beverage, and reading a magazine, preferably something 24

Roope Lipasti is the new editor-in-chief of Times Magazines Finland. He is also a novelist who tends to live a pretty boring life in the countryside in an old farmhouse.

Photo: Riikka Kantinkoski

photo: Envato

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