Tampere Times 1/18 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

1 / 20 1 8

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

The faces of Finnish sport

Tampere in a nutshell

Reading the Finnish mind

Come and explore the intriguing history of the

FINNISH MANCHESTER!

please leave this magazine for the next guest â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thank you!

DINING WITH DAD

A column by Anna Kortelainen

TAMPERE – The Lake City

Tampere Event Highlights 27.–28.4. 6.5. 19.5. 24.–26.5. 4.–10.6. 4.–10.6. 8.–9.6. 13.–17.6. 22.–23.6. 10.–15.7. 19.–21.7. 20.–21.7. 6.–12.8. 11.8. 13.–17.8. 17.–18.8. 26.8. 31.8.–1.9. 13.–20.10. 15.10.

Tampere Wine Fest Design Market at Tullikamari Night of the Museums Great Beers – Small Breweries Tampere Guitar Festival Pirkanmaa Pride Tampere Punk Fest Pispala Schottische Valtteri Festival IAAF World U20 Championships Tammerfest Uusi Tampere Festival Tampere Theatre Festival Moomin Museum Garden Party Tamperrada Pintxo Competition Blockfest Pyynikki Vintage Motorcycle Racing Show Finland-Sweden Athletics International Creepy Carnival at Särkänniemi UEFA Nations League Finland–Greece

Lake City Activities Make the best of your summer visit to Tampere! Lake City bicycle trails www.nasijarvireitti.fi and www.pyhajarvireitti.fi SUP boarding on lake Pyhäjärvi www.suppaatampere.fi Kayaking on lake Näsijärvi www.hikingtravelhit.fi Abseiling from Pyynikki observation tower www.pro-kiipeily.fi Särkänniemi amusement park www.sarkanniemi.fi Discover more at www.visittampere.fi!

Tampere – Sauna Capital of the world Tampere is known for its culture of public saunas. Here are our picks for you! Laukontori sauna pavilion One of the newest additions to Tampere’s sauna scene, this pavilion offers a chance to dip into the Ratina bay between sauna-going, as well as watch the Finnish Silverline ships float by from the upper deck. visionarydesign.fi/laukontorin-paviljonki/ Kaupinoja and Rauhaniemi These lakeside saunas are always packed with locals as well as enthusiastic visitors. Stay in the hot sauna as long as you can and then follow the stairs to cool off in Näsijärvi lake, summer or winter. Don’t forget to take a photo to prove it! www.talviuimarit.fi/kaupinojan-sauna Tullin sauna This is a new sauna opening in May 2018 to the Tulli area in the city centre. It’s a true urban sauna with a hot tub by the street, mobile work space to rent and a restaurant with relaxed but high class Finnish cuisine. tullinsauna.fi Rajaportti The oldest public sauna in Finland still in use, here you’ll really get into the traditional way of sauna-going. Let the locals show you how it’s done! www.rajaportinsauna.fi

Rajaportti

Pyynikki observation tower

Top 5 things to do 1

Visit the Finlayson and Tampella areas to witness the new life of industrial heritage sites Get within touching distance of the steam engine used in the old textile factory in the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas (free admission!). Also, stop by to the old Stable Yards at Finlayson to shop for local handicrafts.

Pyynikki observation tower The best doughnuts in the universe and a view on the side!

Tampere Cathedral Designed by Lars Sonck, the cathedral boasts impressive interior art including frescoes by Hugo Simberg that caused controversy back in 1907.

Moomin Museum If you’re not already a fan of Tove Jansson and the Moomins, you will be after a visit to the world’s only Moomin Museum. Featuring original sketches and tableaus by the artist, the atmospheric museum also offers added Moomin magic to guests of all ages. www.moominmuseum.fi

Have lunch or coffee at Tampere Market Hall From local homemade dishes to delicious French cuisine and the best sushi in town! The biggest indoor market hall in the Nordic countries is 115 years old.

More than an

AMUSEMENT PARK! Särkänniemi is home to over 30 rides that provide fun for visitors of any age! The park also hosts other popular attractions, such as the Doghill Fairytale Farm, Planetarium, Aquarium and Näsinneula Observation Tower and Restaurant, the pride and joy of Tampere.

istossa purjehmukaan jännitaamaan ihania puuhailemaan

n täydeltä

UVIA!

avut

i ä!

All Aboard the Hype Train! Get ready because this summer you’re going to need to buckle up! HYPE: a triple-launch roller coaster accelerates to a maximum speed of 100 km/h and launches passengers vertically to 45 meters above ground! Do you have what it takes to get on board?

Doghill Fairytale Farm is a delight for the whole family! Based on the charming storybooks of Mauri Kunnas, the park is a wonderful place to play and explore. At Doghill you can meet the friendly Mangalica pigs Manta and Maurix, adorable puppies, the comical alpaca family, and many other animal friends.

sarkanniemi.fi

3 PELAA MALTILLA

CONTENTS Tampere – the city of new opportunities 8 The faces of Finnish sport 10 Tampere in a nutshell 16 Selected services & places 18 Map of Tampere 20 Hotels & hostels providing Tampere Times 22 Come and explore the intriguing history of the Finnish Manchester! 24 Reading the Finnish mind 32 Three tips for those travelling to Tampere with kids 34 Dining with dad – A column by Anna Kortelainen 36

Tampere Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 1/2018 "Summer" www.tamperetimes.fi ISSN 2343-3817

Editor Anna Eloaho

Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover Photos from left to right & up to down: Steam engine flywheel at Werstas. Photo: Anne Lahtinen Summer terraces. Photo: Laura Vanzo Frantsila organic herb farm. Photo: Laura Vanzo Holy Calf by Miina Äkkijyrkkä. Photo: Laura Vanzo Buildings around Tammerkoski. Photo: Laura Vanzo Crowd in the city centre. Photo: Petri Kivinen Anna Kortelainen. Photo: Marek Sabogal

Tampere Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.tamperetimes.fi Tampere Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Tampere (see page 22). Next Tampere Times issue is out in October 2018. 6

Discover the premier shopping experience Sokos Tampere offers a versatile assortment of top class products and services right in the heart of the city.

Fashion

Beauty

Home

• Ensimmäinen Apteekki / pharmacy • Posti / post office • Kuopus / kids’ fashion • Timanttiset / jewellery shop • Nissen / optical shop • Flower shop • Alko / liquor store • Ticket sales

• Men’s fashion • Women’s fashion • Footwear, bags and accessories • Marks & Spencer

• Kitchen & Tableware • Textiles • Decoration

• Cosmetics • Hyvä Olo / hair & beauty salon

Sokos Herkku grocery store Restaurants & Cafés • Restaurant & Café 4th Floor • Cafeteria Patio • Restaurant Herkku • Juice and smoothie bar Viheriö

All under one roof.

Welcome!

SOKOS TAMPERE

MON-FRI 9–21 SAT 9–19 SUN 11–18

Hämeenkatu 21 sokostampere.fi

his is year bears an important meaning for the City of Tampere. Many great development projects are changing our city skyline. The Luminary building, the new tram system and last but not least the Deck and Arena, combining housing with the concerts and sport events offering excitement, chills and thrills to over 10,000 people, are only few visible examples of Future Tampere. We have also had the great honor to host the very first International Gender Equality Prize (IGEP). The Government of Finland established the Prize as a part of Finland’s centenary celebrations in 2017. Tampere has been an important part of the history of Finland. The city has been established by King of Sweden Gustav III on the bank of The Tammerkoski rapids in year 1779. Tampere was an industrial pioneer in Finland already at the very beginning. In the cotton factory established in 1820 by James Finlayson the first electronic light in the Nordic countries was lit two years later, in 1882. The industrial history of our city is intertwined with the history of gender equality. In the beginning of the 20th century, Finlayson was the biggest industrial company in the Nordic. The factory employed over 3,000 workers of which 75 percent were women. In Tampere women have been and are working equally beside men as entrepreneurs, teachers and influencers. Many powerful women have left their mark in the history of Tampere. Mrs. Margaret Finlayson and Mrs. Sara Hildén are probably the most well-known business women. Work and entrepreneurship create the foundation for well-being and vitality in Tampere. During the years this city has seen the good as well as the bad, but managed to turn the course of events into a success story. How did we do it and how will we continue to develop our city into the second metropolis of Finland in the future? Together. Conjoint efforts and spectacular collaboration are the main key drivers behind the great story of Tampere. They are also in the core of equality. Tampere wants to promote social justice, equality and empowerment.

In today’s Tampere, along with the whole country, the ICT, creativeness and capacity to innovate are central. Our vivid cultural life offers a variety of activities, services and enjoyment. The home of the world’s only Moomin museum is located in Tampere Hall, the largest conference and concert centre in the Nordic countries. The City of Tampere is a growing city with over 232,000 residents. Our aim is to provide an opportunity to a good life for everyone. We are getting new shapes to our skyline, constructing more services, possibilities to live and work in Tampere, but also looking into ways to include ecological and sustainable new approaches and technologies as a part of our operations. For instance, the very first Tram way of Tampere is currently under construction enabling the development of new parts of the City, such as Hiedanranta where smart and sustainable solutions will facilitate the daily life of the residents. In times of great growth and fast phased society, we must not lose our key drivers and values. We have to ensure equal rights and possibility to participate for everyone. It is our mutual goal, regionally and globally. These are the drivers that have shaped this city and continue to do so. We are constructing many new great things to ensure your visitation will be a worthwhile also in the future. We welcome you to be a part of our story! s Lauri Lyly mayor of tampere

photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

- the city of new opportunities

photo: Kimmo Torkkeli

Tampere

Food, fashion, beauty, home decor & much more!

Opens 19.4.

THE BIGGEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCE IN THE CITY Welcome to the biggest and newest shopping centre in Tampere. We have the most diverse selection of shops and services in a unique location in the heart of the city.

Vuolteenkatu 1, TAMPERE Next to the Tampere Bus Station â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5 minutes from the Tampere Railway Station

WWW.RATINA.FI

photo: Giuliano Bevilacqua / SPORTS MUSEUM OF FINLAND

The faces of Finnish sport Lasse Virén winning the men’s 5000m in Montreal 1976. In a dramatic finish, Virén left Dutch-born New Zealand runner Dick Quax (number 091), West German Klaus-Peter Hildenbrand (420) and the rest behind. Virén won four gold medals at the 1972 and 1976 Summer Olympics.

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

The Finnish history of sports is full of great moments and unforgettable

characters. Let us present a couple of those who have become symbols for the Finnish sports and indeed, for Finnishness itself.

Smiling men

Silence is Golden

An old Finnish proverb “Itku paljon nauramasta” would probably The cornerstone of traditional Finnishness is to understand that it’s translate closest to “It’s all fun and games until somebody loses an eye”. the achievements of a man that speak for him, not the man himself. Yet, the direct translation gloomily states that after a lot of laugh there The most iconic figure in holding one’s tongue is Paavo Nurmi, whose will be tears. It doesn’t encourage towards emotional emancipation, accomplishments in the 1920’s include nine Olympic golds and so let alone urge to openly express positive little talking that compared to him the Iceman feelings. Hannes Kolehmainen, however, Kimi Räikkönen is a blabbermouth. got his nickname ”The Smiling Finn” from BUT NO, the grin on his face on the last meters of the VIRÉN TURNS HIS HEAD, men’s 5,000 meters in the 1912 Stockholm Working Class Hero LOOKS QUAX IN THE EYE Olympics, when he realised that Jean Boulin AND SMILES AT HIM. of France started to lag behind. The moment The bloody Civil War of 1918 divided Finnish that turned up the corners of the mouth for people for a very long time. Finland’s only Lasse Virén came 64 years later in Montreal, Olympic medal in the 1948 London Olympics in the beginning of the homestretch of that same distance: Dick Quax was won by the javelin thrower Tapio Rautavaara. In his memoirs of New Zealand rises to his side and many believe him to win the Rautavaara recollects how the leaders of the Finnish Olympic team day. But no, Virén turns his head, looks Quax in the eye and smiles had pondered afterwards in sauna, that no medals at all would at him. The psychological warfare does the trick, Quax is left behind have been a better result from London than a gold medal won by a and the Finn takes home gold. working class athlete. 10

Jewelery and watches, Tampere: Timanttiset Koskikeskus, Timanttiset Kaleva Prisma, Timanttiset City Kulta Sokos, Timanttiset Lielahti Prisma, Timanttiset Linnainmaa Prisma.

HĂ¤meenkatu 8, Tampere, mon-fri 9.30-18, sat 10-16 www.finngold.com

photo: Franco Lini / Alamy Stock Photo

CHAMPION OF FORMULA ONE KEKE ROSBERG TOOK TO INTERNATIONAL CIRCLES LIKE DUCK TAKES TO WATER.

manner that there have been times when Finland’s ranking position in FIFA has been behind not just all other Scandinavian countries but the Faroe Islands, too. After all, the total number of inhabitants of the Faroes is barely that of a football team. The fallen hero

Keke Rosberg (right) with British Nigel Mansell in 1985.

The first cosmopolites The omerta in Finnish sports ended when the code of silence was broken by the representatives of motorsports, who took promoting themselves in the international circles for granted. When the Finnish rally drivers were still mostly known for their poor command of the English language, the World Championship motorcycle road racer Jarno Saarinen as well as the Champion of Formula One Keke Rosberg took to international circles like ducks take to water. Jarno Saarinen, who died tragically in Monza in 1973 was extremely popular also outside Finland. For example, the Italian racing driver Jarno Trulli who competed in Formula One during 1997–2011, has been named after Saarinen. Keke on his behalf assisted both Mika Häkkinen and his own son Nico Rosberg to become World Champions after his own active career. The land of team players For a very long time the Finnish sport heroes were all representatives of individual sports. An explanation to this has been suggested to lie in the genes. Of those individuals who some 10,000 years ago thought it to be a good idea to go alone to the cold north, as far from the rest of the humankind as possible. During the last decades the world has, however, pushed its way to Finland, too, and the Finns have become team players, whose success in ice-hockey, basketball and volleyball is due to the disciplined team playing abilities and the ability to work for the common goal. A splendid example of this is the Women’s National Football team, advancing to the European Championships three times in a row between 2005–13, making it at best even to the semi-finals. The exception to the rule is the Men’s National Football team, that has, one has to admit, produced superstars like Jari Litmanen and Sami Hyypiä, but has also managed to underachieve in such a

PIHKALA WOULD TURN IN HIS GRAVE IF HE

KNEW THAT FINLAND’S ONLY MEDAL IN THE

2016 SUMMER OLYMPICS WAS WON BY

MIRA POTKONEN, A WOMAN AND A BOXER.

The history of most nations is encompassed with that coming-of-age moment, when the nation realises that they are not perfect, infallible or indeed any better than others. In the field of Finnish sports, this moment is crystallized in one iconic photograph: the European champion in Men’s 10,000 meters and Olympic Silver medallist from just few days prior, Martti Vainio stands in front of the press in 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, busted for doping. The tragic story of the fallen hero turns into a farce a bit later, when caretaker Alpo Nyrönen, Vainio’s neighbour is named as the scapegoat for the doping. Proper Aristotelian drama may have many twists and turns, but a caretaker luring an athlete god to the dark side of the track and the field certainly isn’t one of them. #Me Too Especially the history of Finnish summer sports is male-dominated. The first women participants in the Finnish Olympic team were seen already in 1912, when swimmers Regina Kari and Tyyne Järvi were eliminated in the qualifying rounds (probably because breaststroke didn’t prove to be a winning strategy in freestyle…). The 1920’s were dark times for female athletes: the National Women’s Championships in track and field were suppressed and the decision to have Women’s Track and Field in the Amsterdam Olympics met a lot of criticism in Finland. The inventor of Finnish Baseball and a renowned sports executive Lauri Pihkala even declared Women’s Track and Field to be but un-aesthetic buffoonery. The situation remained much the same until after the WW2. The first Finnish woman to celebrate her Olympic Gold was paddler Sylvi Saimo in 1952. After that, the Olympic gold was won by Heli Rantanen in javelin in 1996 and by Satu Mäkelä-Nummela in trap shooting in 2008. Lauri Pihkala would probably turn in his grave if he knew that Finland’s only medal in the Summer Olympics in 2016 was won by Mira Potkonen, a woman and a boxer. s Mira Potkonen.

move with joy! SuperPark is the friendliest indoor activity park in the world! Our sports park in Finland is bursting at the seams with an array of family activities for every age and every taste. Adventure Area. Game Arena. Freestyle Hall. Choose your own adventure! SuperPark is home to a smorgasbord of activities, designed to inspire and entertain you. Come see what all the hype is about!

you Are made To move SuperPark SĂ¤rkĂ¤nniemi | Laiturikatu 5, 33230 Tampere | www.SuperPark.fi

Flowpark is an ecological adventure park where you can test your guts on a number of different trails. Flowpark is suited to all active, sporting and slighty adventurous people of all ages. Challenge yourself, welcome to Flowpark Varala! Flowpark Varala, Varalankatu 36 Tampere, www.flowpark.fi

luckily thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

CafĂŠ - Deli shop - Restaurant in Koskipuisto, by the Tammerkoski Rapids puistoravintola.fi / #puistoravintola / @puistoravintola

in a nutshell Prehistory

The bedrock of the Tampere and Pirkanmaa region is part of one of the oldest chain of mountains on earth. The last ice age resulted the birth of a long line of ridges, as the melting ice drifted large amounts of gravel and soil. The ridge of Pyynikki rose from the Yoldian Sea and created pools of sweet water on both sides of the ridge. Those pools are now known as the two lakes outlining Tampere: Pyhäjärvi and Näsijärvi and the rapid caused by land rising higher in the north side of the ridge is known as the Tampere Rapids or Tammerkoski in Finnish. The first signs of permanent living in the area date to the 7th century. By the 13th century the area had developed into an important market place. In the Middle Ages, the Tampere region was inhabited by the Pirkka tribe. This feared tribe of hunters and trappers collected taxes as far north as Lapland. In 1779 Tampere was granted full township status by King Gustav III of Sweden. As a free city, rather small town with approximately 200 inhabitants was given major privileges on matters of tax and duty. Industrial history It was the industrial revolution, along with the Tampere Rapids, that made the big wheel turn in Tampere. Among the first foreign investors was Scotsman James Finlayson, who founded the first large-scale industrial enterprise in Finland, namely the Finlayson cotton mill in 1820. Finlayson’s name became synonymous with the six-storey factory he built at the water’s edge. The factory was the first in Nordic countries to have electric light and the brand name Finlayson still lives in the Finnish textile industry. During the latter half of the 19th century almost half of Finland’s industrial labour was situated in Tampere. Tampere gained its nickname “Manchester of the North” due to its industrial nature. Tamperenians call their beloved city “Manse” for short. The traditional chimney pipe industrialism began to vanish from the city centre in the late 1980’s and today the Rapids supply hydroelectric power. Tampere today Population: Tampere is the third largest city in Finland with over 225,000 inhabitants in the city region and over 363,000 inhabitants in its Metropolitan area. Education: Two universities and two polytechnic institutions result every fifth person in Tampere to be a student. Culture: Tampere is a city of theatre with its 10 professional theatres. The annual Tampere Theatre Festival (est. 1968) is the main theater festival in Finland and the oldest theatre festival in the Nordic countries. An international short film festival Tampere Film Festival is held every March. Tampere is also famous for writers depicting the lives of working-class people and for a special music genre known as “Manserock”. s

photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

Tampere

YOUR LOCAL TAXI SERVICE taksitampere.fi facebook.com/taksitampere Tampere • Pirkkala • Kangasala • Lempäälä • Nokia • Ylöjärvi

Tampere • Pirkkala • Ylöjärvi • Nokia • Lempäälä • Kangasala • Orivesi • Vesilahti

Take the blue Nysse bus the easy way to travel around Tampere region!

nysse.fi

C ITY OF TAM PERE Bars, Pubs, Cafés

Night Clubs

and Live Music

Brewery Master's Beer Room.. 67*|38 Bunny Café..................................... 36 Fazer Kitchen & Café Stockmann............................. 33 Moro Sky Bar............................55*|43 Mumin Kaffe................................... 35 Paja Bar....................................56*|43 Plevna Brewery Restaurant....69*|38 Purnauskis Cat Café...................... 37 Tallipiha Stable Yards Cafe........... 10 Teerenpeli......................................39 Ukko Nooa Pub........................58*|43 Restaurants

Amarillo - Tex Mex .................50*|43 Dabbal Kitchen & Bar (see Lapland Hotel Tampere) ..............40 Frans & Marie.......................... 51*|43 Grill it! ......................................52*|43 Manhattan Steak House ............... 41 Masuuni Restaurant ...............54*|43 Periscope Restaurant ................... 16 Piemonte – Italian Wine Bar & Restaurant ................................. 14 Puisto Restaurant ...........................9 Trattoria Tammer ...................57*|43 Zarillo - Western & Tex Mex ........ 15

Ihku Night Club & Karaoke ..........42 Ilves Bar&Night ......................53*|43 Hotels & Hostels

See pages 20–21 and 22. Museums, Galleries and Exhibitions

Amuri Museum of Workers' Housing (see pages 24–25 and 28–29) .... 102 Emil Aaltonen Museum ................30 Finnish Museum of Games (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Ice Hockey Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Kimmo Pyykkö Art Museum (Kangasala Arts Centre) .........37*|26 Lenin Museum .............................. 21 Mobilia - Automobile and Road Museum ...................................38*|26 Moomin Museum .......................... 19 Museum of Minerals (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Museum of Natural History (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Post Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Police Museum .............................. 23

Rubriikki Media Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Shoe Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ......... 17 Sara Hildén Art Museum ..............24 Serlachius Museums (Mänttä) .....25 Spy Museum ..................................22 Steam Engine Museum (Werstas) ........................ 18 Tampere Art Museum ...................20 Textile Industry Museum (Werstas) ........................................ 18 Vapriikki Museum Centre ............ 17 Werstas - The Finnish Labour Museum (in Finlayson area) ........ 18 Events

See pages 2–3. More events and Tampere info: visittampere.fi Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 20–21.

More information in the Internet – see www.visittampere.fi 18

SELECTED SERVICES AND PLACES IN TAMPERE AREA.

Locations are marked on the map (pages 20–21) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Other Services & Sights

Children and Families

Central Post Office of Tampere ............1 Feel Vegas Tampere ........................ 3 Finlayson area ............................. 2*|1 First Aid Unit Acuta (Tampere University Hospital) ........... 3 Getaway Room Escape Games .... 31 Haihara Art Centre ................ 64*|27 Laikku Culture House ............65*|27 Laikunlava Stage ......................5*|27 Laukontori Market Place ...................... 6 Main Library Metso ................................ 7 Market Hall .................................. 8*|1 Näsinneula Observation Tower in Särkänniemi ...........................................34 Police Station ............................................9 Pyynikki Observation Tower .. 10*|1 Ratina Festival Park .............................. 12 Seitseminen National Park and Nature Centre ...................... 14 Tallipiha Stable Yards .................. 10 Tammelantori Market Place .............. 16 Tampere Cathedral ................... 17*|1 Tampere Exhibition and Sports Centre (Pirkkahalli) .............................. 18 Tampere Philharmonic Orchestra (Tampere Hall) ....................................... 19 Tampere Hall Congress and Concert Centre ........... 19 Tampere Theatre ...........................28 Visit Tampere Tourist Information .................. |1

Moomin Museum........................... 19 Pikku Kakkonen Playground (Pikku Kakkosen puisto) ...................................36 Rulla Children's Cultural Centre ........................ 21*|27 Särkänniemi Amusement Park (See also Näsinneula) ......................2 Traffic Park for Children .....................22 Vapriikki Museum Centre ............ 17 Sports

Flow Park Varala - adventure park (Varala Sports Institute) .................8 Hakametsä - Tampere Ice Stadium 23 Hiking Travel, Hit .....................46*|1 Kelo ja kallio Adventures (Pyynikki Observation Tower) .10*|1 SuperPark - indoor activity park ...7 Suppaa Tampere - SUP school ...............................42*|1 Tampere Stadium Ratina ...................24 Swimming all year round

Eliander Beach ......................................25 Kaupinoja – sauna bathing by the lake ...................................4*|1 Laukontori Sauna Pavilion ...... 43*|1 Pyynikki Beach ......................................26

Pyynikki Swimming Hall ...................27 Rajaportti Sauna ........................11*|1 Rauhaniemi Beach and Public Sauna ......................................... 13*|1 Tullin Sauna ..............................44*|1 Spa

Holiday Club Tampereen Kylpylä – a spa hotel ............................................28 Spa Hotel Rantasipi Eden Nokia (From 19.6.2018 Scandic Eden Nokia) ...........................29 Transportation

Hopealinjat (Silverlines) - Lake Cruises and Restaurant Services (See also Laukontori Market Place) ............. 32 Tampere City Transport Office .... 13 Tampere-Pirkkala Airport .............. 31 Tampere Bus Terminal ....................32 Railway Station ..................................33

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET Tampere Times MapApp: www.tamperetimes.fi

Photos: Laura Vanzo / visit tampere

Please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you! 19

Tampere

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET

YOU ARE HERE! Hotels providing Tampere Times are marked on the map with numbered blue dots. The number of your hotel can be found from the list on page 22.

When you go out use Tampere Times Map App in

www.tamperetimes.fi

24 34 14

29 18 25

11*

29 102

20 27

10*

8 13

1 30

42* 26

ÂŠ City of Tampere

28 17 13*

46*

37*

38*

4 10

17 17*

21* 2*

69*

57*

36 5*

53* 54*

58* 51*

56* 52* 55*

50*

6* 14

38 4

33 67*

39 42

65*

44*

64*

32 43*

16 5

11 12

18 31

ADVERTISERS ARE PLACED ON THE MAP WITH GREEN DOTS.

* Some advertisers have several spots on the map. The numbers can be found on pages 18–19. 21

PLEASE LEAVE THIS MAGAZINE FOR THE NEXT GUEST – THANK YOU!

Tampere Times is available in these high standard Hotels & Hostels

01 Dream Hostel Tampere

07 Mango Hotel Tampere

13 Scandic Rosendahl

Åkerlundinkatu 2, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 45 236 0517 www.dreamhostel.fi

Hatanpään puistokuja 36, 33900 Tampere www.mangohotel.fi Tel. +358 10 666 2111

Pyynikintie 13, 33230 Tampere Tel +358 3 244 1111 www.scandichotels.fi

02 Forenom Aparthotel Tampere City

08 Original Sokos Hotel Ilves

14 Scandic Tampere City

Hatanpään valtatie 1, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4631 www.sokoshotels.fi

Hämeenkatu 1, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 244 6111 www.scandichotels.fi

09 Original Sokos Hotel Villa

15 Scandic Tampere Station

Sumeliuksenkatu 14, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4633 www.sokoshotels.fi

Ratapihankatu 37, 33100 Tampere Tel +358 3 339 8000 www.scandichotels.fi

04 Hotel Homeland

10 Radisson Blu Grand Hotel Tammer

16 Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Tampere

Kullervonkatu 19, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 3126 0200 www.homeland.fi

Satakunnankatu 13, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4632 www.radissonblu.com

05 Hotel Kauppi

11 Scandic Tampere Hämeenpuisto

17 Spa Hotel Holiday Club Tampereen Kylpylä

Kalevan puistotie 2, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 253 5353 www.hotelli-kauppi.fi

Hämeenpuisto 47, 33200 Tampere Tel. +358 3 4108 1628 www.scandichotels.fi

Lapinniemenranta 12, 33180 Tampere Tel. +358 30 687 0000 www.holidayclub.fi

06 Lapland Hotel Tampere

12 Scandic Tampere Koskipuisto

18 Spa Hotel Rantasipi Eden

Yliopistonkatu 44, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 383 0000 www.laplandhotels.com

Koskikatu 5, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 3 4108 1626 www.scandichotels.fi

(From 19.6.2018 Scandic Eden Nokia) Paratiisikatu 2, 37120 Nokia Tel. +358 3 280 1111 www.rantasipi.fi

03 Forenom Tampere City Suites Puutarhakatu 37 A, 33230 Tampere Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.fi

Ratapihankatu 43, 33100 Tampere +358 20 123 4634 www.sokoshotels.fi

photo: Atacan Ergin / Visit Tampere

Hämeenkatu 28, 33200 Tampere Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.fi

WELCOME

ZARILLO TAMPERE Otavalankatu 9

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SUVANTOKATU 9, TAMPERE TEL. (03) 225 5505 INFO@PIEMONTE.FI

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www.zarillo.fi/english 16

photo: E.M. Staf, Vapriikki Photo Archives

Come and explore the

intriguing history of the

Finnish

Manchester! Written by Teemu Ahola and Anne Lahtinen

Tampere is a traditional workingclass city with a fascinating and

diverse industrial past. A visit to

the Museum of Workers’ Housing, which displays the housing, stories and atmosphere of the distinctive workers’ district, is an excellent

way to explore the city’s history.

Another great option is the Finnish

Labour Museum Werstas - located in the heart of the historic area of the Finlayson cotton mill - which exhibits factory work and the

workers’ involvement in civic life.

Aerial view of the Amuri workers’ district in 1957. 24

Everyday life in workers’ district Amuri Tampere industrialised rapidly after the mid-19th century. Several factories sprang up in the city, turning the banks of the Tammerkoski rapids into the cradle of Finnish industrialisation. Factories that were notable even on the Nordic scale included the Finlayson cotton mill and the Pellavatehdas linen factory that operated on the opposite bank of the rapids. A great number of new workers moved to Tampere to work at the factories in the city, which was already facing a massive shortage of free plots of land by the 1860s. The acute problem was resolved by turning the cultivated land on the western edge of the city into plots. Blocks of workers’ housing began to appear in the area. Around the same time, a group of Finnish emigrants were seeking their fortune far away in the Russian Far East, and this bold journey to distant lands provided inspiration for naming the new neighbourhood Amuri. Amuri became the most important workers’ district in Tampere and remained so for a hundred years. Demolition work on the wooden house district comprising a total of 116 plots of land began in the 1960s and continued well into the next decade. The old residential blocks had to go – except one, which was turned into the Museum of Workers’ Housing and opened to the public in 1975.

Over the course of a hundred years, Amuri developed into a distinctive neighbourhood. Life in Amuri was modest and crowded. The population of the ever-growing district already amounted to over 5,000 people at the turn of the 20th century. One of the peculiarities of Amuri was its communal kitchen system: the houses usually featured four rooms that shared one long kitchen. The kitchen was dominated by a wood stove with one cooking surface for each room. One family usually lived in one room, sometimes with a subtenant living with them too. The cramped coexistence occasionally caused some tension. Arguments sometimes arose over cleaning the communal kitchen. At times, the use of the shared laundry room in the inner court for washing outsiders’ laundry for a fee made tempers flare and even caused complaints to be lodged with the management of Finlayson. Despite this, the people of Amuri shared their joys and sorrows. The best place to do this was one of the many public saunas in the district, where men and women bathed together. Saturdays were particularly popular sauna days, as the workers got ready for Sunday. The last public sauna in Amuri was closed in 1975. Today, you can visit the sauna in the inner court of the Museum of Workers’ Housing and return in thought to the shared social moments and water-throwing contests of old.

ALAVERSTAANRAITTI 5, TAMPERE TEL. 03 5656 6966 / 12/6¤ OPEN TUES–SUN 10–18 WWW.VAPRIIKKI.FI

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Translation books in 10 languages!

www.vakoilumuseo.fi Satakunnankatu 18, Finlayson

photo: Saana Säilynoja, Vapriikki Photo Archives

Café Amurin Helmi at the Museum of Workers’ Housing is a popular resting spot among both tourists and locals.

The streets, alleys and inner courts of Amuri The city of women AND LAMP INSPECTOR naturally also served as playgrounds for children. - and new inventions MR. HEIKKINEN WAS The wildest kids waged war against the rats, hunting the animals all over Amuri. The kids were The story of the Finlayson factory began in 1820, A FEARED GUEST IN even paid for the rats back in the day: outside the when the Scot James Finlayson arrived in Tampere WORKERS’ HOMES. market hall, they received a reward of 10 Finnish to establish a spinning machine factory. However, pennies for each rat tail. the factory’s road to becoming a major employer of Even though they lived modestly, people in its time only began after a change of ownership in Amuri did have electric lighting at their disposal the 1830s. The entire city of Tampere is said to have already at the beginning of the 20th century. In grown and developed under the auspices of the the first decades of the century, electricity fees in Finlayson cotton mill – such was the significance Amuri were collected based on the number and of the establishment. Following the example power of the electric lamps in the household. Many set by Finlayson, especially textile mills began reported that they had only one minimum-sized to spring up in the city, and the textile industry lamp in use, although the reality might have been attracted young unmarried women in particular wholly different. As a consequence, Mr Heikkinen, as workers. As a consequence, Tampere was long the meter reader and lamp inspector, was a feared called a city of women – there was only one man guest in workers’ homes. News about his arrival for every two women in the city! ran quickly through the neighbourhood by word A large industrial establishment also made of mouth to allow people to change the number it easier to be bold enough to try out the new of lamps in their apartment to correspond to technology of the time, such as electric lights what they had reported. This was not always and a fire sprinkler system. Finlayson was the successful, and being caught for such deception first place in Finland to have both installed. The three times resulted in electricity being cut off largest steam engine ever in the Nordic countries This sauna at the Museum of Workers’ for an entire year. also gave out an air of newness in May 1900, when Housing serves as a reminder of the many Leaving Amuri, you can follow in the saunas of Amuri. it was first fired up. The machine was used as the footsteps of thousands of factory workers along main source of energy in the mill until the 1920s, Puuvillatehtaankatu to the historic Finlayson mill area. There, you after which it still served as the reserve source of energy until the will find the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas, the national special mid-1950s. The massive machine, still located in its original place, is museum for working life and social history. a monument to Finnish industrial history. photo: Saana Säilynoja, Vapriikki Photo Archives

THE METER READER

SATURDAYS WERE PARTICULARLY POPULAR SAUNA DAYS, AS THE WORKERS GOT READY FOR SUNDAY.

photo: Niels Rasmussen, The Finnish Labour Museum Werstas

PISPALA HAD NO BUILDING CODE

- EVERYONE BUILT THEIR HOUSE EXACTLY AS THEY WANTED AND COULD AFFORD.

Boys shopping at a co-op store in 1910.

Meirän kaupunki - Pispala living Meirän kaupunki also allows you to check out a bank and a printing house as well as learn about various professions and the workers’ living conditions in Pispala. Pispala was another workers’ district, formed beside Tampere in the 1890s. Pispala had no building code – streets developed according to need, and everyone built their house exactly as they wanted and could afford. Lauri Viita, a working-class writer who spent his childhood in Pispala, described the area as ‘the creator’s block game’. You can get a good idea of what he meant by this by studying the miniature model of Pispala or by taking a peek at a Pispala hut located in the exhibition.

The workers’ crowded living conditions go a long way to explain why meeting other people happened outside the home. The best places to do so were naturally the community halls. Community halls were so popular in Finland that there were more of them than churches at the beginning of the 20th century. Coincidentally, the first community hall made of stone was built in Tampere too. In the community hall in Meirän kaupunki, you can listen to both speeches and music, read books, exercise and take in the atmosphere of the social events once held there. Should you have a greater interest in the birth and rise of the labour movement as well as its impact on Finnish society, we recommend visiting the Museum of Liberty which has its entrance right beside the community hall. The museum recounts the entire one-hundred-year history of Finland from the perspective of the labour movement and regular people. s photo: Anne Lahtinen, The Finnish Labour Museum Werstas

Its status as textile industry capital earned Tampere the nickname of the Finnish Manchester. The city might just as well be called the Finnish Rochdale, as the cooperative movement first entered Finland here. Three workers’ co-op stores were established in Tampere at the beginning of the 20th century, with one of them, Finlayson ja Kumpp. Työväen Osuuskauppa, opening in Amuri in 1900. You can take a peek inside this co-op store in the Meirän kaupunki (‘our town’) exhibition at Werstas, which depicts the life of urban workers in the 20th century.

This miniature model depicting Pispala in the 1930s is handmade. Rumour has it that there is a horse riding a bicycle hidden somewhere in it!

The diameter of the steam engine flywheel is a whopping 8.1 metres.

AMURI (see red dot no. 102* on map, p. 20–21) Amuri Museum of Workers’ Housing, Satakunnankatu 49 Open 15 May–16 September and on Tampere Day, Tue–Sun 10 am–6 pm Guided tours also available in English, Swedish and Russian Tel. +358 3 5656 6690, amuri@tampere.fi www.museokortteli.fi/en TYÖVÄENMUSEO WERSTAS (see green dot no. 18 on map, p. 20–21) The Finnish Labour Museum Werstas, Väinö Linnan aukio 8 Open Tue–Sun 11 am–6 pm, free admission! Tel. +358 10 420 9220, info@tyovaenmuseo.fi www.tyovaenmuseo.fi

photo: Anne Lahtinen, The Finnish Labour Museum Werstas

Akseli Gallen-Kallela, Spring (detail), 1902–1903.

Salvador Dalí, The I Eat Gala’s, 1971

ART | ARCHITECTURE | HISTORY| CUISINE NORDIC EXPERIENCES Unique art exhibitions, fascinating architecture and wood construction. Pure tastes from Finnish nature in the landscape Restaurant Gösta. Experiential history in the utopia of an energetic paper industry legend. The lapping of waves and the murmuring of pines in a Finnish Lakeland art town. A memorable and easy to reach experience in a distinctive art locality.

JUMP IN TO THE SERLACHIUS SHUTTLE BUS!

DEPARTURE FROM TAMPERE

Tampere bus station 10.50 am Tampere railway station 11.05 am

ARRIVAL IN MÄNTTÄ

Serlachius Museum Gösta 12.25 pm Serlachius Museum Gustaf 12.35 pm

. . . .

DEPARTURE FROM MÄNTTÄ

Serlachius Museum Gösta 5.20 pm Serlachius Museum Gustaf 5.30 pm

ARRIVAL IN TAMPERE

Tampere railway station 6.45 pm Tampere bus station 6.50 pm

2. IN THE LONELY PLANET’S LIST OF FINLAND’S TOP SIGHTS 2017 FINALIST IN THE EUROPEAN MUSEUM OF THE YEAR COMPETITION 2017 DOMESTIC TOURISM BUSINESS OF THE YEAR 2016 MUSEUM OF THE YEAR IN FINLAND 2015

FEEL FREE TO COME FARTHER | SERLACHIUS MUSEUMS | MÄNTTÄ | +358 3 488 6800 | SERLACHIUS.FI

26*

Welcome to

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MOBILIA AUTOMOBILE AND ROAD MUSEUM Kustaa Kolmannen tie 75 • 36270 Kangasala

www.mobilia.fi Bus 40B every hour from Koskipuisto, Tampere

BORROW A BICYCL E OR NORDIC WALKING POLES!

27*

PARK CONCERTS 2018

Reading the

Finnish mind Written by Pauliina Eriksson Translated by Anna Eloaho

Have you ever pondered what the Finns are like? What is the Finnish sense of humour like, what makes a Finn weep, how do Finns see the world? The literary tradition is strong in Finland. The headway of literary works written and published in Finnish language began in the late 19th century and nowadays this small country with its 5,5 million inhabitants is the second biggest publisher of books in the world per capita. Is it possible to get a grip of this nation by reading books? Author and teacher of Finnish language and literature Tommi Kinnunen recommends reading for anyone interested in foreign cultures. He emphasizes that literature does not merge from emptiness but “reflects the society and the social situation of a certain region, country or continent”. Through literature a reader gains an opportunity to get to know new cultures, certain geographical regions or specific epochs. Seven Brothers by Aleksis Kivi, considered to be the first significant novel written in Finnish language, is the ultimate classic of the Finnish literature. With seven brothers as protagonists, the bildnungsroman tells the tale of seven freedom-loving and uncivilized village youth to respectable members of society. Kivi’s novel is often among the first ones mentioned when Finnish literature is introduced and it has been translated to numerous languages. Kinnunen, however, doesn’t recommend a foreign reader to start from a classic. According to him the classics do give an accurate account of how the Finnish culture has developed from the past to our days, yet he recommends to start from a more contemporary work. Whereas Seven Brothers is set in an agricultural era, the awarded author Kjell Westö is known for his novels set in an urban environment, more specifically Helsinki. His works, too, have been translated widely. However, there is one interesting phenomenon Kinnunen wants to bring about when Finnish literary classics are discussed. The tradition of strong women within Finnish literature can be traced

throughout the tradition, starting from the national epic the Kalevala, all through the plays by Hella Wuolijoki depicting ordinary people and continuing to the contemporary works such as The Midwife by Katja Kettu. Also children’s literature is widely read and published in Finland. The Finnish kids love Tatu and Patu series by Aino Havukainen and Sami Toivonen, with two wacky brothers from Oddville as protagonists. Tommi Kinnunen recommends Me Rosvolat series by Siri Kolu as an example of an anarchist approach within the children’s book genre. Kinnunen emphasizes the meaning of literature in understanding phenomena that might otherwise be difficult to grasp. He gives being silent as an example of this and defines it as the ability of the Finnish people to feel relaxed in company without saying a word. “One doesn’t need to be distressed about being silent in Finland” he says. Yet another good example of specifically Finnish phenomenon is the dark, laconic and often bizarre humour of Arto Paasilinna’s novels. Got interested? There is a good selection of Finnish fiction available at the bookstores. Seven Brothers, the Kalevala and The Midwife can be found in bookstores in English, German or Russian. Kjell Westö’s novels, too, have been translated to German. Tatu and Patu books are available for kids in English and in German. Arto Paasilinna’s humour is available for those reading in French. The path to the Finnish mind is open. s

Tommi Kinnunen.

photo: Suvi-Tuuli Kankaanpää / WSOY

Silence in Finnish literature "Tuomas eyes the old childhood playgrounds from the cottage roof top. […] Tapio sits by his side on the ridge and together they share a silent moment only brothers can have. The other one is looking at the lake and the other knows him to be counting the number of new cottages hiding behind the pine trees on the opposite shore. The other one glances at his side, which is enough to tell his brother that he is pondering the state of the dried up grey pine tree. Without saying a word, without looking at each other they both come to the conclusion that it should be felled and cut to firewood." Tommi Kinnunen: The Light Behind the Eyes (Lopotti). WSOY 2016. 32

EMIL AALTONEN MUSEUM Mariankatu 40, Tampere

Emil Aaltonen museum of industry and art. The permanent collection represents Aaltonen´s life and displays some of his art collection. The exhibited artists are masters of older Finnish painting.

admission 3€ / 2€ 1.6.-31.8. wed 12am-6pm, thu, sat, sun 12am-4pm 1.9.-31.5. wed 12am-4pm, sat, sun 12am-4pm www.pyynikinlinna.fi - Tel 03 - 212 4551

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ENJOY TASTY FOOD AND BEAUTIFUL LAKE VISTAS À la carte restaurant in Viikinsaari is located in a charming old wooden villa in the splendid and green Viikinsaari island. The restaurant serves lunch on weekdays and buffet brunch on Sundays. Delicious à la carte dishes are also available. The boat trip from Laukontori harbour in Tampere city centre to Viikinsaari island takes only 20 minutes, making the island an effortless daytrip destination. Hopealinjat also offers lunch cruises, dinner cruises and several other cruises on different themes on our restaurant ship m/s Silver Sky. With us you will always get a table with a view to the lake.

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photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

Enjoying some munkkis at Pyynikki.

Three tips for those travelling to Tampere with kids Written by Sanna Saarikangas

Congratulations, you have made a great choice! Our town has a lot to offer for both big and small. Those of us who have ever travelled with one child or more, know the blessing that comes in the form of a good playground. When the older ones are tired of strolling around the streets and the youngest gets too energetic to stay put in the stroller, an hour spent on a playground makes the rest of the day a lot easier.

Tip One: Number one playground in Tampere When we head out, my kids’ ultimate favourite is the “Pikku Kakkosen puisto” right by the Tammerkoski rapid. The playground is named after our traditional children’s TV show, Pikku Kakkonen on Channel 2, a show that recently celebrated its 40th birthday. Being a big part of my generation’ childhood, the program still gathers the smallest ones around the telly at five o’clock every weekday. I guess I’m not the only one who schedules the supper either before or after Pikku Kakkonen – even in the era of endless streams of entertainment. The open-air playground keeps both toddlers and school kids happy!

Tip Two: A library for all When you need a place to quiet down, head for a building called Metso. It is our recently renovated main library – and yes, I would recommend it even for tourists and travellers. From above the building is shaped like a bird, capercaillie. Besides books, magazines, the sound of silence and education, the library offers a calm corner for kids, free access to computers, movie screenings and music performances. And there is a café upstairs, too. As readaholics we visit the library pretty much weekly, and kids can spend hours browsing through the books. They say that our free and wide library system is one of the foundations on which the success of Finnish education is built on. Nowadays in libraries you can lend things to read, listen, play, work out or even hang out with – not just books but guitars, kettlebells and even grandmothers too. When I asked my kids what they would list as the best places to visit in Tampere, the library came second

right after the Pikku Kakkonen playground. (The third one on the list was visiting our friends’ house, but I assume you would have to make special arrangements to get coffee there.)

Tip Three: More coffee! Finns are the most coffee-consuming nation in the world. For reasons unknown – some blame the darkness of our winter, some the need of not-talking during a meeting – an average Finn drinks four to five cups of coffee per day. In Tampere there is a variety of cafés, from simple and traditional to hip and cool trendy places. My own favourites (with or without kids) are Kaffila and Pella’s close to the central square, Aamurusko in the Tammela district and the one on the Finlayson area, Tallipiha, an old stable yard where there are also small boutiques selling handicrafts and on weekends often pony rides and farm animals to pet. A bit further from the city centre, a great (and popular, book a table!) place for a brunch is Café Pispala. The most adventurous can take a brisk stroll over the Pyynikki ridge and enjoy a view over the city from the observation tower or claim that you suffer from fear of heights and thus get a chance to eat another munkki, the best doughnut in the world! I hope these tips have given you some new ideas for your trip in Tampere. For more advice, just grab us Tamperenians by the sleeve, say “Moro!” and ask. We are actually pretty happy to help. Enjoy your stay! s Sanna Saarikangas is a Tampere-loving communications professional by day, a blogger and a bedtime story reader by night. You can find her blog on family and life (in Finnish) at sannasaarikangas.fi

MORE TIPS! Visit Tampere has published a tourist map designed specifically for kids and families. Get your own free copy from Visit Tampere tourist information or download it from www.vistitampere.fi/funforkids

THE BEST MOMENT OF THE DAY! STEP IN AND ENJOY OUR DELICIOUS LUNCH BUFFET!

10,60

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STOCKMANN, 3RD FLOOR, HÄMEENKATU 4, TAMPERE

Longines_HQ • Visual: SB6_RE1 • Magazine: Tampere_Times_ 1_2018 (FI) • Issue: 16/02/2018 36 Doc size: 98 x 142 mm • Calitho #: 02-18-127615 • AOS #: LON_15891 • TS 14/02/2018

Ratina Shopping Center Vuolteenkatu 3 Tampere

TAMPERE TIMES

COLUMN

Dining with dad

In the morning I got some homecoming gifts from the market square and headed back to the station. The conductor’s gaze was thoughtful: didn’t she just arrive yesterday afternoon and now already going back. A restless soul. On the train back home I polished my ideas from day before, adding things and filling up gaps. On arrival to Helsinki I had a road map ready on what kind of book I was about to write and how I should proceed. The book was published two years later. I visit Tampere often for work. The staff at my favourite hotel never fails to ask how I’m doing, I always bump into friends over breakfast and at Christmas time a gift from the hotel awaits me in my room. As I return tired to the hotel after the workday, I’m as relieved to return there as I would be returning home. After being served my dinner I retire to my room with a good conscience, put on my pyjamas and become the true unsocial me. I don’t have a TV at home, so in a hotel I hop from one channel to another, usually in awe and wonder. The crime series puzzle me most. Why do the police in demanding field work run around in so very unpractical clothes, men in suit jackets and women in high heels? When the officials charge into a suspicious flat, the uniforms all have their helmets on but the detectives lead the forces bareheaded. Inside the flat they never switch on the lights, but fidget about in the dark with their flashlights. The bambi-like female constables always want to go and search the dodgy industrial premises by themselves, they never wait for the upcoming reinforcements. And of course all the police must all the time confront the rules as well as their negligent bosses. I wouldn’t want to be a TV-detective, I muse, reaching out for more chocolate. This postulant crime consultant rests on her hotel bed and gives advice to the TV-screen. And is thoroughly happy. Suddenly I remember my dad’s trips to the monastery. My dad is no longer with us. Only now do I understand him. s

Anna Kortelainen (PhD) is an author, scholar and art historian. Her works include both fiction and nonfiction. Many of her works deal with art history as well as women’s history. Her next book is a biography of the patron of arts and businesswoman Sara Hildén and will be published in September 2018. Kortelainen lives in Helsinki.

Photo: Marek Sabogal

When I was young I didn’t quite grasp the point in my father’s annual spring retreat to the New Valamo Monastery in Heinävesi. He booked a modest room with full board, packed along a few books and stayed at the monastery for the long weekend. He lay on the bed of his cell, read his books in the complete silence and had his meals in the monastery canteen. Why he did that, I didn’t quite understand. A month ago I booked a hotel room in Riihimäki, rather close to my hometown Helsinki, packed along a nearly finished manuscript and headed for the train station. Upon my arrival to the hotel room I was pleased to see that everything was according to my wishes: there was a sauna and even a whirlpool bathtub. A glance at the room made me think that it would rank high among the newly weds: a pair of swans made of white towels lay at the foot of the bed. I noticed that the tall mirror on the wall made me look slimmer. Now that’s a mirror I’d like to have at home. All afternoon and evening I went through my manuscript, editing unnecessary fillings and repetition, spicing and spiking up my text. I played my favourite music, enjoyed my packed lunch, made instant coffee using the water boiler of the room. Everything tasted heavenly. Not even the cuddling swans could make me feel lonely, because the characters of my script took over the room, conquered the couch and peeked out into the darkening small town evening from my hotel room window. Finally, around ten in the evening I turned off my laptop, switched on the sauna and ran myself a bath. Sitting on the bench of the sauna, my feeling of happiness could not have been more complete. No one really knew where I was, only I did. A few years back I got myself a train ticket from Helsinki all the way to Kainuu, to Kajaani. I sat by my laptop on the train for six hours, accompanied by my packed lunch, ordering more coffee from the mini bar trolley every now and then. I wrote and contemplated, at the same time listening to peaceful music from my headphones. By and by, I was commencing a new book by making charts and diagrams. The snowy landscapes flickered behind the train window, the speed of the train made the snow dust fly. People came and went, but I was cosy in my own bubble, flying on the back of the wind across Finland. When the train arrived to Kajaani, the framework for the new script was drafted. I got a room from a cosy little hotel that reminded me of the sports training centres of the 1970’s. I stood by the hotel room window and admired the shimmering ice deck of the river Kajaani and the twinkling stars. I had a sturdy local meal at the hotel restaurant and looked at the numerous talkative parties around me. I was an outsider and I was pleased.

Written by Anna Kortelainen Translated by Anna Eloaho

38*

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Hatanpään valtatie 1

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Hatanpään valtatie 1

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Satakunnankatu 13