Tampere Times 2/17

TAMPERE EVENT HIGHLIGHTS 2017 2018

TOP 5 THINGS TO DO IN TAMPERE

VISIT THE FINLAYSON AND TAMPELLA AREAS TO WITNESS

THE NEW LIFE OF INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE SITES

Get within touching distance of the steam engine used in the old textile facto ry i n the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas ( free admission!). A l so, stop by to the old Stable Yards at Finlayson to shop for local handicrafts.

P YYNIKKI OBSERVATION TOWE R

The best doughnuts in the un i ve r se and a view on the si d e!

TAMPERE CATHEDRAL

Designed by L ars Sonck, the cathedral boas ts impressive interior art in cluding fresc oes by Hugo S imberg t ha t sh ocked the locals in 1907.

P UBLIC SAUNAS

R aj aportti in Pispala is Finland ’s oldest public sauna sti l l in u se, and from the heat of Rauhaniemi and Kaupinoja you can dive straight into lake Näsijärvi, all year round!

HAVE LUNCH OR COFFEE AT TAMPERE MARKET HALL

Fro m local homemade dishes to de l icious French cuisine and the best sushi in town! The biggest indoor market hall in the Nordic countries is 115 ye ars old.

MUSEUMS FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY WINTER FUN

MOOMIN MUSEUM

World’s only Moomin Museum opened its doors last summer and is now one of our international must-visits! Stop by also to Moomin reading library and Tampere-talo Shop for some adorable souvenirs. Yliopistonkatu 55

MUSEUM CENTRE VAPRIIKKI

Natural history museum, ice hockey museum, all sorts of museums! All in an old factory building by the Tammerkoski rapids. Alaverstaanraitti 5

WORKERS’ MUSEUM WERSTAS

This historical museum offers free entrance and a wonderfully interactive experience. Learn, how the Finlayson factory used to work in its cotton-making days, and much more! Väinö Linnan aukio 8

OUTLAW & POLICE

In other words, from the Spy Museum to the Police Museum. Satakunnankatu 18; Vaajakatu 2

ENJOY SOME WINTER SPORTS. Rent ice skates for only 6 € at Kaupinoja rental shop and take a spin on the Näsijärvi lake surface! Or, rent a pair of cross-country skis and head to the Kauppi forest tracks. Visit www.hikingtravelhit.fi or ask your reception for more information. Kaupinpuistonkatu 2

TAKE A WALK to Siilinkari lighthouse - along the frozen Näsijärvi lake surface! Make sure the ice is thick enough by checking with the locals. On a sunny winter’s day, there are sure to be many of them to accompany you.

Too chilly outside? Spend a relaxing day at the HOLIDAY CLUB TAMPERE SPA. Lapinniemenranta 12

In need of action? Indoor amusement park SUPERPARK SÄRKÄNNIEMI is guaranteed fun for all ages! Laiturikatu 1

Check seasonal weekly activities and much more at www.visittampere.fi! FOLLOW US!

Download the free Visit Tampere app to see what’s going on! VISITTAMPERE.FI/APPS VISITTAMPERE.FI

TAKING FLAVOURS

Tampere’s top restaurant is located at 124 meters above the city’s rooftops and is known for its unique rotating panoramic lakeside view and delicious dishes. The à la carte menu follows the seasons and offers pleasant food experiences all year round.

The restaurant welcomes all visitors, from grandchildren to grandparents!

with joy!

ISSN 2343-3817

Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

CONTENTS

Editor Anna Eloaho

Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski

Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy

Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover Photos from left to right & up to down: Portrait of a Lady. Photo: Finnish National Gallery, Yehia Eweis Pispala autumn. Photo: Laura Vanzo

Tammerkoski winter. Photo: Alex Mazurov Koskipuisto. Photo: Juha Suhonen

Snowmen. Photo: Jarkko Haarla

Spring in the city center. Photo: Laura Vanzo

Anna-Leena Härkönen. Photo: Jouni Harala

Celebrate the centenarian Finland with Tampere

This is the year of celebrations! Finland became independent state on the 6th of December in 1917. The City of Tampere dates even further back in the history than just 100 years. This city had its beginning in 1779. During the years Tampere has played a variety of roles in the history of Finland.

The City of Tampere along with the whole country has taken on a role as a leading ICT innovator with wide range of well-established industrial manufacturing. The path of this city has been a success story. How did we do it and how will we continue to develop into the second metropolis of Finland in the future? Together.

Conjoint efforts and spectacular collaboration are the main key drivers behind the great story of Tampere. The city grew from a small village by the Tammerkoski rapids into the largest industrial city on the Nordic counties in the 19th century.

You can still sense and feel the industrial history in the idyllic Finlayson area and Stable Yards. Or perhaps you would love to have a glimpse of the design district? The unique design boutiques offer an unforgettable atmosphere in Kehräsaari, for example.

Tampere offers great opportunities to shop for local handicrafts and delicacies. Quite many boutiques, shops and restaurants have a little something special to offer in the honour of centennial celebrations, such as themed menus focusing on Finnish cuisine. The centennial celebrations are present at the Tampere Christmas Market opening in the beginning of December at Central Square. The Christmas Market is bringing the real spirit of Christmas for all of us to enjoy for the 10th time this year.

If culture is more your thing, take a tour in the museums or book a ticket to a show or a play. Tampere, the theatre capital of Finland, is a vivid centre of creativity and culture life with a wonderful variety of theatres and plays.

We delight our residents and guests with the annual 52nd Tampere

Illuminations. It happens also to be one of the most visual ways of celebrating the centenarian Finland.

If you want to try something new and exciting, visit the world’s only Moomin Museum at Tampere Hall, where it opened in June 2017. The Finland’s biggest congress and concert centre houses the home of the Moomins and is well worth a visit.

Or perhaps sports are close to your heart? A local ice-hockey game is a must see event for every sports fan. We people of Tampere (tamperelaiset) take our sports seriously, yet not too seriously. We simply love our two main ice-hockey teams Ilves (Lynx) and Tappara (Battle axe).

For a corky adventurer, it is highly recommended to try out local food called ‘mustamakkara’ (blood sausage). This treat is traditionally bought and enjoyed at the local market squares Laukontori or Tammelan tori. Not to forget the special locally made treats called ‘munkki’ (doughnut) served at the Pyynikki Observation Tower.

We are constructing many new great things to ensure your visitation will be a worthwhile also in the future. You may have noticed the tram construction sites, the upcoming new Luminary tower offering housing in 21 floors and the new shopping centre Ratina will open in spring 2018. In addition, the construction of the Central Deck and Arena will be combining housing with concerts and sport events offering excitement, chills and thrills for over 10,000 people.

Although we have many spectacular things, it is the people who make the city together. Welcome to enjoy and become a part of Tampere during your visitation and perhaps even longer! s

Lauri Lyly mayor of tampere

100 years of winter sports in Finland

Written by Matti Mäkelä translated by anna eloaho

Chapter 1: The first star

Newly independent Finland was keen to make herself known for the world and success in the sporting arenas offered a possibility to attain fame. The best mannequin for the nation was naturally Paavo Nurmi in track and field, but he operated in the summertime. His equivalent in winter sports was Clas Thurnberg, also known as “the Nurmi of the skating rinks”. He took five Olympic golds in speed skating. Thurnberg reminded his more famous counterpart in stubbornnes as well: he refused to take part in the 1932 Winter Olympics in Lake Placid, because he considered the mass start rules as utter foolery.

Chapter 2: The poor man’s false teeth

In between the two World Wars, Finland was still so poor a country that a top class skier would risk the Olympic gold for his false teeth. It is year 1936 and the Garmisch-Partenkirch Olympics. A minute after the Norwegian Bjarne Ivarsen, Kalle Jalkanen starts for the anchor leg in cross-country relay. Halfway he spits briskly on the snow but realizes – to his utter horror – having spat out his false teeth, too. A poor workman cannot leave the expensive prosthetic device behind, so Jalkanen turns back on the ski track and fetches his teeth. The end

is happy: he reaches the Norwegian again, overtakes him and takes Finland to Olympic victory.

Chapter 3: The magical numbers

In the Finnish minds the year 1952 is fixed as the year when the dark shadow of the wartime finally starts to fade. Helsinki hosts the Summer Olympic games and the war reparation payments for Soviet Union are finally fulfilled. Already the very beginning of year 1952 shows promise: Veikko Hakulinen takes the Olympic gold medal in Oslo in the 50 km skiing. Even more unforgettable than the winning itself is his magical winning time: 3 hours, 33 minutes and 33 seconds.

Chapter 4: In a wrong company

The Squaw Valley Olympics in 1960. The national ice hockey team of Finland has arrived with great expectations, but loses their both matches in the preliminaries and head for the so-called consolation division. The humiliation only deepens, as they play against the “not exactly the toughest ice-hockey countries” Australia and Japan. The press in Finland rubs it all in in by naming the series the Pacific Ocean division.

Winter sports have played an important role in the grand narrative of Finnishness throughout the 100-year independency of the nation.

We give you ten small chapters from the great story.

Matti Lähde sending Kalle Jalkanen for the anchor leg in the Olympic cross-country skiing relay in Garmisch-Partenkirchen 1936.

JALKANEN TURNS BACK ON THE SKI TRACK AND FETCHES HIS TEETH

Chapter 5: Lagging behind

The Finns have always prided on their capability to embrace new technology and new ideas very fast. The rise of Nokia and the success of the Finnish companies in the global computer game industry are often given as an example of this. Yet in the World Championships in skiing in 1974 the Finns were miles behind and missing the boat at the same time. Thomas Magnuson of Sweden won the 30 kilometres cross country skiing with fiberglass skis that had just appeared to the market. He won the best Finnish skier Juha Mieto with his wooden skis by almost a minute. The Finns were devoted supporters of the traditional wooden skis at the time. It was estimated later, that with his wooden skis Mieto gave Magnuson a benefit of almost two minutes.

Chapter 6:

The sense of tragedy

Finnish people love tragedies and melancholy (some say this is due to the harsh historical lessons and numerous hardships). Should you see a compilation on the all-time achievements of Finnish winter sports on TV, you can be sure that among the “highlights” is the one-hundredth of a second defeat Juha Mieto suffered in Lake Placid Winter Olympics in 1980 as well as Finland’s three most bitter defeats against Sweden in ice hockey (including the World Championships in 1986, again in 1991 when Sweden – during the last 45 seconds – rose from losing position of two goals to a tie and again in 2003, when Sweden turned the hopeless 1–5 score into 6–5 victory.

Chapter 7: Doctor Jekyll

and Mr. Hyde

Athletes can sometimes be solemn, even somewhat dull characters. One of the all time most legendary ski jumpers, Matti Nykänen was not and neither will he ever be. With his four Olympic golds and six World Championships Nykänen became famous for his colourful lifestyle even during his active years (The Time called him Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde of ski jumping at the time of the Calgary Olympics) and for his schisms with the bosses of the governing body of ski jumping.

Championships in ice hockey culminated in the final match between Finland and Sweden. Ville Peltonen scores the unforgettable three goals and takes Finland to a 4–1 victory. The entire Finland goes bananas; the analysts and scholars go crazy too, with a slight delay, and inform the citizens that winning the ice hockey championships has brought back the long lost self-esteem of the Finns, turned the nation’s economy to growth and indeed been the starting point for the success of Nokia.

Chapter 9: The brave new world

Individual sports as well as the traditional winter sports skiing and ski jumping were sports of the old, agricultural Finland. The changing of the world first took ice hockey to be the primary sport of Finland and later revolutionized all winter sports. Kalle Palander’s world championship in slalom in 1999 was a major surprise in its time and the first signal of the upcoming change. After that, various forms of freestyle skiing and especially snowboarding rose to the awareness of the Finns. For a long time, the old-school sport presenters and other traditionalists mocked these sports, calling them “the saggy-pant sports” in reference to the way the young sportsmen and women were dressed. The tone has however changed with the success.

Nykänen roamed his own paths. Once he went for a two-week party holiday with a girlfriend just before the World Championship games, returned just in time for the games and still won a medal. After his active years the pace has but accelerated and the former sportsman has tried his wings as a singer, stripper and a jailer. He is also a unique philosopher, whose aphorisms have become legends in Finland. “Life is at its best when you are alive” is an excellent example of the depths the aphorisms of Matti Nykänen can reach.

Chapter 8: The young heroes

In the early 1990’s Finland is in the midst of the worst economic depression since the 1930’s. The dark gloomy times demand for heroes and such were available in May 1995. The World

Chapter 10: Winter sports in Tampere

The primary wintertime spectator sport in Tampere is undoubtedly ice hockey. Tappara is defending their championship in Liiga, the top-level ice hockey league in Finland, whereas Ilves attempts to brighten their 8th position from last year.

For those who want to have a go in winter sports themselves, Tampere offers plenty of options. Downhill skiers and snowboarders should head for Mustavuori or Hervanta. On a proper winter there are up to 120 kilometres ski trails available for cross-country skiers. For skaters there is the artificial skating rink at Koulukatu as well as – should there be a good cold old-fashioned winter this year – 104 natural skating rinks around the city of Tampere. s

Enni Rukajarvi, snowboarder from Finland. Olympic silver medalist and X-games gold medalist.

“LIFE IS AT ITS BEST WHEN YOU ARE ALIVE”

- MATTI NYKÄNEN

1–5, THE GAME MUST BE OURS...

THE ENTIRE FINLAND GOES BANANAS

CITY OF TAMPERE

photo: laura Vanzo

photo: laura Vanzo

photo: laura Vanzo

SELECTED SERVICES AND PLACES IN TAMPERE AREA.

Locations are marked on the map (pages 16–17) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

photo: miKKo Vares

photo: JarKKo haarla

ADVERTISERS ARE PLACED ON THE MAP WITH GREEN DOTS.

* Some advertisers have several spots on the map. The numbers can be found on pages 14–15.

PLEASE LEAVE THIS MAGAZINE FOR THE NEXT GUEST – THANK YOU!

Tampere Times is available in these high standard Hotels & Hostels

01 Dream hostel & hotel

Åkerlundinkatu 2, 33100 Tampere

Tel. +358 45 236 0517 www.dreamhostel.fi

02 forenom aparthotel tampere City

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03 forenom tampere City suites

Puutarhakatu 37 A, 33230 Tampere Tel. +358 20 198 3420 www.forenom.fi

04 hotel Cumulus

hämeenpuisto tampere

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05 hotel Cumulus

KosKiKatu tampere

Koskikatu 5, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 3 242 4111 www.cumulus.fi

06 hotel homelanD

Kullervonkatu 19, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 3126 0200 www.homeland.fi

07 hotel Kauppi

Kalevan puistotie 2, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 253 5353 www.hotelli-kauppi.fi

08 laplanD hotel tampere Yliopistonkatu 44, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 383 0000 www.laplandhotels.com

09 mango hotel tampere Hatanpään puistokuja 36, 33900 Tampere Tel. +358 10 666 2111 www.mangohotel.fi

10 original soKos hotel ilVes Hatanpään valtatie 1, 33100 Tampere

Tel. +358 20 123 4631 www.sokoshotels.fi

11 original soKos hotel Villa Sumeliuksenkatu 14, 33100 Tampere

Tel. +358 20 123 4633 www.sokoshotels.fi

12 raDisson blu granD hotel tammer

Satakunnankatu 13, 33100 Tampere

Tel. +358 20 123 4632

www.radissonblu.com

13 sCanDiC rosenDahl

Pyynikintie 13, 33230 Tampere

Tel +358 3 244 1111

www.scandichotels.fi

14 sCanDiC tampere City

Hämeenkatu 1, 33100 Tampere

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15 sCanDiC tampere station

Ratapihankatu 37, 33100 Tampere

Tel +358 3 339 8000

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16 solo soKos hotel torni tampere

Ratapihankatu 43, 33100 Tampere

+358 20 123 4634

www.sokoshotels.fi

17 spa hotel holiDay Club tampereen Kylpylä

Lapinniemenranta 12, 33180 Tampere

Tel. +358 30 687 0000

www.holidayclub.fi

18 spa hotel rantasipi eDen

Paratiisikatu 2, 37120 Nokia

Tel. +358 3 280 1111

www.rantasipi.fi

photo: tampereallbright / Kari

The Finnish Museum of Games is focused on experiences: visitors can try the games in their authentic environments. There are more than 100 games on display, and 60 of them can be played.

Spies and their equipment that changed the world

The world’s first spy museum in the city center introduces you to the fascinating ways and means of real life James Bonds. Eavesdropping, hidden cameras, secret weapons, code breaking, e-mail hacking...

Remember to say the code “We met at the hotel” to get free Agent Test!

Museum is open Mon-Sat 12-18, Sun 11-17 Admission 8€ / 6€ Agent Test 5€

Translation books in 10 languages!

www.vakoilumuseo.fi

Satakunnankatu 18, Finlayson

museum collections have to tell?

he works of the Gösta Serlachius Fine Arts Foundation are displayed in the Serlachius Museums in Mänttä. The core of the collection is a selection of works from the Golden Age of Finnish Art, 1860–1930, including masterpieces from artists like Akseli Gallen-Kallela, Helene Schjerfbeck and Albert Edelfelt. The Foundation’s collection, founded in 1933, also includes works of contemporary art, as well as works of old European art from the 15th–20th centuries. The provenance of many paintings is cloaked in obscurity, and for all of the works the artist cannot be determined with certainty. Although an exhaustive study of the collection is only in its early stages, many significant discoveries have already been made.

Detail from a forged painting Portrait of a Lady, claimed to be painted by Dutch artist Frans Hals.

ART | ARCHITECTURE | HISTORY| CUISINE NORDIC EXPERIENCES

Unique art exhibitions, fascinating architecture and wood construction in an award-winning museum. One of the Europe’s nest museum restaurants. Experiential history in the utopia of an energetic paper industry legend. The lapping of waves and the murmuring of pines in a Finnish Lakeland art town. A memorable and easy to reach experience in a distinctive isolated art locality; borrow a bicycle or Nordic walking poles.

JUMP IN TO THE SERLACHIUS SHUTTLE BUS! •

DEPARTURE FROM TAMPERE

Tampere bus station 10.50 am

Tampere railway station 11.05 am

ARRIVAL IN MÄNTTÄ

Serlachius Museum Gösta 12.25 pm

Serlachius Museum Gustaf 12.35 pm

DEPARTURE FROM MÄNTTÄ

Serlachius Museum Gösta 5.20 pm

Serlachius Museum Gustaf 5.30 pm

ARRIVAL IN TAMPERE

Tampere railway station 6.45 pm

Tampere bus station 6.50 pm

EXHIBITIONS: Collection exhibition Kimmo Pyykkö, Long Distance Atelier. Gallery New artists and exhibitions every month

Please visit our website for more information on current and upcoming exhibitions and events.

•

KIMMO PYYKKÖ ART MUSEUM

KANGASALA ARTS CENTRE

KANGASALA-TALO Kuohunharjuntie 6, 36200 Kangasala

Opening hours: Tues–Wed 11am–5pm, Thu 11am–7pm, Fri–Sat 11am–5pm, Sun 11am–3pm, Tel. +358 (0) 40 773 0148

taidemuseo @ kangasala-talo.fi, www.kimmopyykkotaidemuseo.fi

Photo: Tuomas Uusheimo

© Laura Vanzo

Art detective’s new toolkit

The creator of the Foundation, Gösta Serlachius, purchased in the 1930s a painting, known by the name Portrait of a Lady, which was claimed to be a 17th-century painting by the Dutch artist Frans Hals (c. 1582–1666). The painting was discovered to be forgery already in the 1930s, but a more detailed study was made only recently. Recenart, a specialist in the technical research of artworks, conducted a pigment analysis with an XRF spectrometer, which revealed that titanium white pigment was used in the work. Such a pigment came on to the market only in the late 1920s, so the work was probably painted

FORGERS WILL VISIT FLEA MARKETS, PURCHASING OLD PAINTINGS OF UNKNOWN ARTISTS, WHICH THEY USE AS THE BASIS OF THEIR FORGERIES

on commission in the 1930s. At that time, interest in Hals’ paintings was growing and, as a result, prices were also rising.

The painting was also photographed with a hyperspectral camera, which penetrates underlying layers of paint that are not visible to the naked eye. Beneath the portrait was discovered a floral still life, most likely painted in the 17th century. The back of the painting and its seals also suggest this. Forgers will often visit flea markets, purchasing old paintings of unknown artists, which they then use as the basis of their forgeries. In this way, they will try to cheat the buyer by creating an impression of an old work.

Recenart’s research led to a more significant discovery when the hyperspectral camera was directed at the painting Haystack in the Evening Sun, which was considered to have been painted by Claude Monet (1840–1926). Previously, however, there had not been any watertight evidence of this, even though art historical investigations supported the hypothesis. More detailed material studies further strengthened this view, and a hyperspectral image of the underlying pigment layers of the painting revealed both a signature and a date, 1891. The work therefore became the first authenticated Monet painting in a Finnish collection. The painting had been purchased for the Foundation’s collection in London, in 1957.

Who is the man behind the Thaw?

The painting The Thaw by Pekka Halonen (1865–1933), one of the most famous artists of the Golden Age of Finnish Art, also merited a look below the surface. A hyperspectral image revealed a portrait of a dark-haired gentleman with handsome sideburns in the background of this early-spring landscape painting. It is not known who the man in the painting is or why a new work was painted on top of it. It may

Hyperspectral images of the forged painting Portrait of a Lady, revealing the underlying floral still life.

The features of the unknown gentleman behind Pekka Halonen’s The Thaw (1905) are visible to the naked eye.

be a case of an unredeemed commissioned work whose canvas the artist decided to reuse. Once you know that there is a portrait under the landscape, the features of the figure can also be distinguished on the surface of the painting with the naked eye. The Halonen and the Monet paintings can be viewed in the Serlachius Museum Gösta’s exhibition Meadows and Wilderness, which is open to the public until 4 November 2018.

Detective work at the art museum is not merely restricted to secrets concealed below the surface of the paintings. Technological development has expanded the opportunities for research, but art historical expertise and knowledge of art are also needed. Such work is facilitated by technological development in the sense that information is nowadays more readily and quickly available, and the number of colour images has increased dramatically. In past decades, works had to be attributed on the basis of black-and-white images. Researchers have also had the Internet at their disposal only for around 20 years. Internet articles must be critically examined and they do not replace printed sources completely, but information can be found quickly on the Internet and online sources can be easily reviewed for further research. In addition, email makes it easier for international experts to keep in contact with each other. There is good reason to respond to old attributions with an open mind and always revise opinions when new information becomes available.

Is the Zurbarán really a Zurbarán?

Some paintings, on the other hand, are so exceptional that they cannot be attributed correctly, even by front-line experts. One such painting is Juan de Zurbarán’s (1620–49) Still Life with Basket of Fruit and Cardoon (1643). Born and raised in Seville, Spain, Juan was the son of the painter Francisco de Zurbarán. The son’s still life paintings differed so radically from his father’s religious paintings, however, that the work in the Gösta Serlachius Fine Arts Foundation’s collection, for example, was for a long time attributed to Italian artists. The Still Life with Basket of Fruit and Cardoon, moreover, stylistically resembles the Italian followers of Caravaggio more than the Spanish still lifes of the early 17th century. Naples was, however, part of the Kingdom of Spain at that time, and the cultural influences between Naples and Seville were close.

The painting, purchased for the Gösta Serlachius Fine Arts Foundation’s collection in 1938, could not be attributed to Juan de Zurbarán until 1985, even though the work had a signature. This, however, was previously considered to be a forgery. The then Director of the Prado Museum in Madrid was still of the opinion in 1983 that the work could not have been painted by Zurbarán. The work was finally attributed on art historical grounds, by comparing the painting with other known works of the painter. When the Still Life with Basket of Fruit and Cardoon was confirmed as having been painted by Juan de Zurbarán, researchers were also able to attribute to him other paintings whose artist was uncertain. In addition, it was important from an art historical perspective to realise how much Italian painting influenced the development of Spanish still life painting in the 17th century. The Still Life with Basket of Fruit and Cardoon has also been frequently included in international exhibitions as an outstanding work of Spanish still life painting.

A more detailed study of the art collection will provide invaluable additional information not only about the works of the collection, but also about their artists. This, in turn, will deepen art historical knowledge on both a local and an international level. Who knows what is still to be found in the depths of the collection? s

SERLACHIUS MUSEUMS

Gösta: Joenniementie 47, Mänttä

Gustaf: R. Erik Serlachiuksen katu 2, Mänttä

Open 1 September–31 May Tue–Sun 11am–18pm

Admission fees 10 € adults, 7 € students, pensioners.

Under 18s free admission.

Serlachius bus runs from Tampere to Mänttä on the days that the museums are open. More information: www.serlachius.fi/en/info/by-bus-in-mantta/

SEE NUMBER 23 ON MAP (PAGES 16–17).

Juan de Zurbarán’s masterpiece Still Life with Basket of Fruit and Cardoon (1643) wasn't correctly attributed until 1985.

THE WORK WAS FINALLY ATTRIBUTED ON ART HISTORICAL GROUNDS, BY COMPARING THE PAINTING WITH OTHER KNOWN WORKS OF THE PAINTER

Tampere in a nutshell

Prehistory

The bedrock of the Tampere and Pirkanmaa region is part of one of the oldest chain of mountains on earth. The last ice age resulted the birth of a long line of ridges, as the melting ice drifted large amounts of gravel and soil. The ridge of Pyynikki rose from the Yoldian Sea and created pools of sweet water on both sides of the ridge. Those pools are now known as the two lakes outlining Tampere: Pyhäjärvi and Näsijärvi and the rapid caused by land rising higher in the north side of the ridge is known as the Tampere Rapids or Tammerkoski in Finnish.

The first signs of permanent living in the area date to the 7th century. By the 13th century the area had developed into an important market place. In the Middle Ages, the Tampere region was inhabited by the Pirkka tribe. This feared tribe of hunters and trappers collected taxes as far north as Lapland.

In 1779 Tampere was granted full township status by King Gustav III of Sweden. As a free city, rather small town with approximately 200 inhabitants was given major privileges on matters of tax and duty.

Industrial history

It was the industrial revolution, along with the Tampere Rapids, that made the big wheel turn in Tampere. Among the first foreign investors was Scotsman James Finlayson, who founded the first large-scale industrial enterprise in Finland, namely the Finlayson cotton mill in 1820. Finlayson’s name became synonymous with the six-storey factory he built at the water’s edge. The factory was the first in Nordic countries to have electric light and the brand name Finlayson still lives in the Finnish textile industry.

During the latter half of the 19th century almost half of Finland’s industrial labour was situated in Tampere. Tampere gained its nickname “Manchester of the North” due to its industrial nature. Tamperenians call their beloved city “Manse” for short.

The traditional chimney pipe industrialism began to vanish from the city centre in the late 1980’s and today the Rapids supply hydroelectric power.

Tampere today

Population: Tampere is the third largest city in Finland with over 225,000 inhabitants in the city region and over 363,000 inhabitants in its Metropolitan area.

Education: Two universities and two polytechnic institutions result every fifth person in Tampere to be a student.

Culture: Tampere is a city of theatre with its 10 professional theatres. The annual Tampere Theatre Festival (est. 1968) is the main theater festival in Finland and the oldest theatre festival in the Nordic countries. An international short film festival Tampere Film Festival is held every March. Tampere is also famous for writers depicting the lives of working-class people and for a special music genre known as “Manserock”. s

photo: tampereallbright

Written by anna-leena härkönen translated by anna eloaho

A night in a hotel

LiKe many of us, I too used to spend time googling apartments for sale and dream of a penthouse in Ullanlinna (prestigious district in southern Helsinki, TN). Now that has changed to googling hotels. After all, a night or two in a luxury hotel just might be attainable once in a lifetime, where as buying a penthouse apartment most likely isn’t.

Dreaming about hotels is my mindfulness practice. Apart from the fact that while practicing it I’m not at all present in the present moment but completely elsewhere. I picture myself in a canopy bed or by the turquoise pool. When I hear someone is going on a trip, my first question is “Which hotel?” Men never remember. Booking the hotel is yet another thing for a woman to do.

And no, it’s not like I just google hotels, I do sometimes spend nights in them, too.

A good hotel doesn’t necessarily have anything to do with the star rating. But the view from the balcony for example can matter a lot, if one travels alone. When travelling with someone, that someone is the view. Should you spend the night in the cheapest possible hotel with a sour hag glooming at the reception, you’d have no one wishing you good night and you’d end up being terribly homesick.

Yet even a five-star boutique hotel can be dispiriting, if the interior is too sterile and the staff obnoxious. Once, on a business trip, I stayed in a hotel in Barcelona where I couldn’t figure out how to use the shower. The tap design was so modern and complicated that I just couldn’t get the water running. I ended up washing my hair in the sink. “I’m too stupid to use your shower”, I told the receptionist in checkout.

I miss the time when hotel key was attached to a heavy ball with the room number. In those days you didn’t take the key out with you. By no means. The key was handed to the receptionist, who put it in its own little locker for safekeeping and gave it back to you when you asked for it on your return. These modern day keycards are dubious and unreliable. Too often on returning tired to the hotel and sticking the keycard to the reader the green light just doesn’t light up and you have to return to reception for one that functions.

At its best, a night in a hotel can function as a silent retreat. More than once it has happened that I haven’t managed to turn on the TV (too complicated system, too many buttons in the remote, an unfamiliar TV). On such occasions I make myself believe that it all has a deeper meaning. To be quiet and just contemplate between the crisp sheets. In a hotel room I feel that I have all the time in the world.

Many consider domestic hotels to be gloomy. One often stays there on business and too much is simply too much. But for me, not having working trips that often, even a night in an ordinary chain hotel is a treat. Everything is familiar and easy, yet one gets to be above the ordinary for a moment.

Sometimes parents who have small children spend a night in a hotel in their hometown just to get some “grown-up time”. Everyone understands that. I’d like to spend a night in a hotel in Helsinki sometime, even though I no longer have a small child. It’s ridiculous, I know, but the mere thought of a possibility for a mini vacation and a night in a totally different environment makes me happy when unfinished work at home seems to fall all over me.

A new hotel close to the ferries for Tallinn was recently opened in Helsinki. I’d like to spend a night there sometime, before taking a trip to Tallinn. I’m always restless on the night before a trip, so that might be eased by leaving a day earlier. But then again, there is the danger of being restless for two days, as one would be anxious to get to that Finnish hotel. Ok, I’m getting rather carried away with this. But then again, it’s the only way to be for me.

Years ago my friend Anu gave herself a night in a hotel in her hometown for her own 18-year birthday. She had imagined it to be an experience of great grandeur. Her room was freezing cold. The radiator was switched off, but a young girl didn’t have the courage to go and demand anything from the reception, so Anu was freezing all night. So much for the grandeur. The breakfast, however, had felt luxurious.

A hotel breakfast is always an adventure. First, naturally, one must circle around to get an over-all understanding of what is served. Only after that can one start to gather food on the plate. In my opinion the best breakfasts are served in Thailand. Dim sums, noodles, smoothies, filled pancakes. Often even sparkling wine. And in Estonia one is often served slowly simmered barley porridge. A dish one seldom has the patience to make at home.

The Vietnamese hotels are wonderful, but sometimes the foreign language skills of the staff, despite the friendliness, are a bit limited. Once I tried to order a glass of white wine. It didn’t work. I couldn’t get my message through. Not even when I drew a picture of a wine glass on a napkin. They did bring the glass, but it was empty. s (Parts of this column have been published previously in Finnish in Apu-magazine).

Anna-Leena Härkönen is an author and an actor. Along with over 20 books, her work includes plays and scripts. Her latest novel Valomerkki (Last Call) was published in August 2017. A film adaptation of her book Kaikki oikein (The Winning Ticket) will be released in January 2018.

Start your day with a delicious breakfast. Enjoy a fresh salad lunch. Pamper yourself with chocolate delights. Drop in anytime and we will give your taste buds a treat.

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We are continuing the story that Karl Fazer started in 1891 with the original Fazer Café on Helsinki’s Kluuvikatu.

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Original Sokos Hotel Ilves Hatanpään valtatie 1

Original Sokos Hotel Ilves Hatanpään valtatie 1

Original Sokos Hotel Ilves Hatanpään valtatie 1

Original Sokos Hotel Ilves Hatanpään valtatie 1

Radisson Blu Grand Hotel Tammer Satakunnankatu 13

Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Tampere Ratapihankatu 43

Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Tampere Ratapihankatu 43

Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Tampere Ratapihankatu 43

Original Sokos Hotel Ilves Hatanpään valtatie 1