Tampere Times 2/19 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

2/2019

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE The unbearable lightness of skiing Page 10

Sara Hildén Art Museum:

Changing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art Page 24

Highlights of Finnish film history:

Summer night’s passion, a vampire witch on the snowfields Page 28

A column by Heikki Kännö

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

The magic circles of hotels Page 36

Photo: Laura Vanzo

Tampere is filled with things to experience and explore. Here are a few tips to help you get started.

Explore the history

Visit the Finlayson and Tampella areas to witness the new life of the industrial heritage sites. Admire the national landscape, historical red brick buildings and roaring rapid. Get within touching distance of the steam engine used in the old textile factory in the Finnish Labour Museum Werstas (free admission!). And don’t forget to stop by to the old Stable Yards at Finlayson to shop for local handicrafts and treats.

Roam in the nature

Walk up the Pyynikki ridge and enjoy the breathtaking views and the peace of the Pyynikki nature reserve. Make your way up to the observation tower and marvel at the views opening up to Lake Pyhäjärvi. Don’t forget to try the best doughnuts in the universe! Or why not take a walk by the lakeside, enjoy three parks at once, and stop and smell the roses in the rose garden in Hatanpää Arboretum?

Experience the culture

Add a pinch of culture and Moomin-magic to your day by visiting the world’s only Moomin museum, be a spy for a day in the Spy Museum, experience the olden days in Finnish Labour Museum Werstas, Lenin Museum or Amuri Museum of Workers’ Housing or dive right into the wonderful world of art in one of the many art museums Tampere has to offer: Sara Hildén Art Museum, Tampere Art Museum, Museum Centre Vapriikki…

Savor the food

Have a bite of Hungry for Tampere! Savor the tastes and atmosphere of this unique city and find your favorite foods and locations from the vast range of restaurants found in the city, everything from local foods, brewhouse cousine to relaxed fine dining experiences. For more information on our fabulous restaurants visit visittampere.fi/en/hungry-for-tampere For more information on what to experience in Tampere visit visittampere.fi/en/

Photo: Laura Vanzo

Activities Nature is there for you, all year round. Whether we have frost and ice or mild snowless winter, the nature offers countless activities for you to experience. Experience the best parts of beautiful countryside - by bike pyhanasi.fi Kayaking on open waters, or maybe skiing and ice skating on frozen Lake Näsijärvi? hikingtravelhit.fi Husky snow safaris gegwen.com

Events

If heights are your cup of tea, try abseiling from Pyynikki observation pro-kiipeily.fi

2019

How do you feel about wakeboarding on Tohloppi Lake or ice skating on the same frozen waters? Or if you have the need for speed when you are on skis, we suggest you try downhill skiing in Mustavuori.

5.10.–8.3. 12.–19.10. 16.–19.10.

Photo: Laura Vanzo

Discover all of the above and more from visittampere.fi/en/articles/winter-fun-in-tampere

Tampere – Sauna Capital of the World! Tampere is known for its culture of public saunas. We have over 30 public saunas in the region for anyone to relax in, throughout the year. In Tampere, the only problem for sauna enthusiasts is choosing one’s favourite public sauna, as there are so many options. Here some of our favourite picks for you!

Tampere Festival of Light Särkänniemi Creepy Carnival European Open, Junior & Master Equipped Bench Press Championships 20.10. Lastenvaatekarnevaali – Kids’ Fashion Fair 22.–27.10. Tampere Gallery Week 23.–27.10. WOMEX World Music Expo 31.10.–3.11. Tampere Jazz Happening 4.–10.11. Kirjalitta Children’s Literature Festival 15.–16.11. Cinemadrome 19 15.–17.11. Finnish Craft and Design Fair 30.11.–22.12. Tampere Christmas Market 6.12. Finnish Defence Forces’ National Independence Day Parade 7.–8.12. Design Market Doghill Christmas on Sat−Sun 30.11.−22.12. and Fri−Sat 27.−28.12. at 3−7pm in Särkänniemi.

2020 18.–19.1. 23.–26.1. 24.–25.1. 8.2. 8.–9.2. 27.2.–1.3. 4.–8.3. 19.–21.3. 1.–5.4.

Vire Tampere Fair Tampere Chamber Music Valoa Pimeyteen Science Event Snow Tango World Championships 2020 Tampere Wedding Fair LanTrek 2020 Tampere Film Festival Tomatoes! Tomatoes! Stand-up Comedy Festival Tampere Biennale

Kaupinoja and Rauhaniemi These lakeside saunas are always packed with locals as well as enthusiastic visitors. Stay in the hot sauna as long as you can and then follow the stairs to cool off in Näsijärvi lake, summer or winter. Don’t forget to take a photo to prove it! talviuimarit.fi/kaupinojan-sauna Rajaportti The oldest public sauna in Finland still in use, here you’ll really get into the traditional way of saunagoing. Let the locals show you how it’s done! rajaportinsauna.fi

Photo: Laura Vanzo

Kuuma sauna & restaurant One of the newest additions to Tampere’s sauna scene, this pavilion offers a chance to dip into the Ratina bay between sauna-going, as well as enjoy food or drinks on the terrace while watching the Finnish Silverline ships float by. saunaravintolakuuma.fi

Visit Tampere

+358 3 5656 6800

@visittampere and @visittampere.fi

visittampere@ visittampere.fi

@ visittampereofficial Visit Tampere Official

visittampere.fi

WEEKLY SYMPHONY CONCERTS AT TAMPERE HALL

TAMPERE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA CELEBRATING 90 YEARS OF MUSIC IN 2020

TICKETS 28 / 22 / 15 / 8 â&#x201A;¬ CONCERT INFO WWW.TAMPEREFILHARMONIA.FI

SHOPPING CENTRE RATINA

THE BIGGEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCE IN THE CITY

Moomin themed nursing room and play area Mini-Ratina

Over 100 shops and the best brands in Tampere! Food, fashion, beauty, home decor & much more!

Vuolteenkatu 1, TAMPERE Next to the Tampere Bus Station â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5 minutes from the Tampere Railway Station ratina.fi

kauppakeskusratina

kauppakeskus_ratina

CONTENTS Welcome to Tampere – capital of experiences! 8 The unbearable lightness of skiing 10 Tampere in a nutshell 14 Selected services & places 18 Map of Tampere 20 Hotels & hostels providing Tampere Times 22 Sara Hildén Art Museum: Changing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art 24 Summer night’s passion, a vampire witch on the snowfields – Highlights of Finnish film history 28 Minna Canth – The champion of girls’ rights and equality 32 The magic circles of hotels – A column by Heikki Kännö 36

Tampere Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2019 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.tamperetimes.fi ISSN 2343-3817 (print) ISSN 2669-8293 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos Cold winter day. Photo: Alex Mazurov / Visit Tampere Beginning of spring. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Tampere by night. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Swimming at Rauhaniemi. Photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere Heikki Kännö. Photo: Helena Kulmala

Tampere Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.tamperetimes.fi Tampere Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Tampere (see page 22). Next Tampere Times issue is out in April 2020. 6

#tullintori #tampereentullintori

ALE LOOC SPHER ATM

TULLIKATU 6, TAMPERE 100 METERS FROM RAILWAY STATION

www.tullintori.fi

tullintori

tampereen_tullintori

photo: Hanna Leppänen

Welcome to Tampere

- capital of experiences!

Thank you for choosing one of the most

We are very proud of our variety of unique events and festivals. Tampere offers something to see and experience a year round. One of these is the Tampere Illuminations. From October until March city center and its streets are illuminated with hundreds of light fixtures from traditional light figures to urban art projected onto empty walls. In the holiday season Tampere Christmas Market offers a variety of local local handicrafts and delicacies. Tampere Christmas Market opens in the beginning of December at Central Square. During darker months of the year our goal is to make most of the weather. The chilly winds and rains can be turned into a cozy and memorable visit to one of our many saunas. Tampere has the most public saunas in the country, over 30! Hence we have been granted the title of Sauna capital of the world. At the moment we are constructing plenty of new to ensure your visit is worthwhile also in the future. Our very first Tram way is expected to start operating on August 2021. Also world’s largest hotel chain Marriott International has arrived in Finland and its first hotel is expected to open right next to Tampere Hall in the beginning of 2020. Last but not least is the construction of the Deck and Arena designed by architect Daniel Libeskind. The Tampere Deck and Arena project is an urban scale development that will be built on top of an existing railway track in the heart of the city. The mixed-use program consists of a multi-purpose ice hockey arena with a hotel, five adjacent towers with a podium and includes residential, retail and offices. The arena, which occupies one fifth of the complex, will have the capacity to accommodate 11,000 visitors. And these are only few visible examples of future Tampere. Our aim is to be the very best for you. Enjoy and explore Tampere during your visitation and perhaps even longer! s

interesting cities in Finland! There is no other place like Tampere.

The story of Tampere begins in 1779 when the city was established by King of Sweden, Gustav III, on the bank of Tammerkoski rapids. The location has always been our competitive edge. We are at the cross roads of Finland, always close and conveniently reachable. Tampere’s city centre is surrounded by lake and ridge scenery. It is sited on an isthmus between lakes Pyhäjärvi and Näsijärvi. The Tammerkoski rapids run through the city. The rapids and the hydroelectric power generated by them were harnessed already at the very beginning for industrial needs. It can be considered as one of the starting points of our industrial businesses and commerce. By the beginning of the 20th century, Tampere was the largest industrial city in Finland. The rapids were then and still are a great source of power to the people and businesses in Tampere area. Our unique industrial heritage is present in the heart of the city. The red-brick walls located on the banks of the Tammerkoski rapids, old factory buildings housing modern ICT-work and the laidback atmosphere are the key elements of our city’s atmosphere. Since the beginning of our story 240 years ago, Tampere has seen the many phases of history. We have grown from a cotton factory town into a modern culture capitol of Finland. Our aim is to strengthen our role as the culturally rich university town. Tampere and the Tampere Region have decided to apply to become the next European centre of culture because we want to increase our residents’ well-being and boost the region’s vitality in the long term. The European Capitals of Culture initiative is a way for the European Union to support European cultural diversity. A Finnish city will be elected a Capital of Culture 2026 by a European panel.

Lauri Lyly mayor of tampere

Restaurant

Näsinneula taking flavors to new heights

Restaurant Näsinneula is located on top of Näsinneula Observation Tower at 124 metres above Tampere. The restaurant is known for its unique rotating panoramic lakeside views and delicious dishes. The à la carte menu follows the seasons and offers exquisite Finnish food experiences all year round. All dishes are made using locally produced high-quality ingredients. Reserve your table at +358 (0) 207 130 234 or ravintola.nasinneula@sarkanniemi.fi

photo: Terje Pedersen / Lehtikuva

Finland's Iivo Niskanen (8) won his first individual Winter Olympic gold medal in men's 50 km cross country skiing in PyeongChang 2018. Other medals went to Russia, as Alexander Bolshunov (7) took silver and Andrey Larkov (11) bronze – both competing as members of OAR Team. Hans Christer Holund (3) of Norway finished 6th.

The unbearable lightness of skiing

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Tiina Erkintalo

uch pleasure it is for a skier to ski, when snow beneath glistens and the sky above curves bright…", depicts Eino Leino, the Finnish national poet, the joys of skiing. After this, Leino makes a U-turn and declares that skiing is even more fun when "the wind howls, the trail is blocked and a blizzard storms in the sky…" More fun? Leino seems to describe the inhumane circumstances that led to the tragic death of Captain Scott’s expedition in the Antarctic, and he seems to be shaking with laughter. No wonder Leino is Finland’s national poet. To praise self-torture in such wretched conditions is only natural in a country that has fully internalized John F. Kennedy’s famous motto: we choose to do things not because it is easy, but because it is hard. This is why Lauri ‘Tahko’ Pihkala, the Grand Old Man of Finnish sports, considered cross-country skiing to be ultimately superior to alpine skiing. In his view, a sport where "the lift takes you up and the gravity brings you down" was not really a sport at all. As a result of this attitude, it is the men’s 50 km ski-race that has traditionally been considered the most valued one among skiing championships. For example, the most successful Finnish skier in recent years, Iivo Niskanen, became a true superstar only after winning Olympic gold medal on this particular competition in 2018 – although he had previously already won World Championship in 15 km race as well as the Olympic gold in team sprint race. 10

‘A SPORT WHERE

THE LIFT TAKES YOU UP AND THE GRAVITY

BRINGS YOU DOWN IS NOT REALLY

A SPORT AT ALL.’

Then, of course, there are those who think that true skiing only not held again until in 2016. Since then, it has been organized every begins when considerably many more kilometers are involved. For year as its popularity grows. But even Andreas Nygaard, who won those the Nordenskiöldsloppet in mid-April in Sweden offers a real the competition in 2017, doubted its meaningfulness. "It is completely challenge with its extreme 220 kilometers, just over five marathons. absurd to ski for so long. This is the craziest race I’ve ever skied", he The name of the event refers to the famous Finnish arctic explorer said after reaching the finish line in 11.48.07. The contestant, who Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld, who organized the first race in 1884. enjoyed the longest time on the ski track, pushed himself to the According to tradition, the pace of the first competition was kept up finish line after more than 28 hours of skiing. by serving the participants coffee and cognac, which was not that The most popular mass skiing events in the Nordic countries, exceptional in endurance sports at that time. however, are much more moderate in length. IN TIGHT SITUATIONS For example, the winners of the first Olympic Sweden’s Vasaloppet is the world’s largest single marathons are known to have cheered themselves cross-country skiing race and clearly the most THE PATROLS up with red wine, cognac and even strychnine. popular. Organized since 1922, the aim of the WERE GIVEN A unique chapter in the unholy union of event is to ski 90 kilometers from Sälen to Mora. A STIMULANT DRUG skiing and stimulants, along with various doping According to the story behind the event, the future DEVELOPED BY scandals, is the winter guerilla activity of the king of Sweden Gustav Vasa tried to escape from THE GERMANS Finnish remote patrol troops behind the Soviet Sweden to Lübeck, Germany, in the early 1520s. lines during the second World War. The patrols However, the peasants who opposed the current sent to the enemy’s back could, in a matter of few days, ski more reign of King Christian II of Denmark, sent their three best skiers than 150 kilometers while carrying weapons, explosives and other after the young nobleman to persuade him to return and lead an equipment. Although the men in these special forces were in a really uprising against the king. Gustav agreed, plunged the usurper from tough condition, fatigue was imminent because of the extreme the throne and became king himself. Like so many nationally inspiring physical and mental stress. To support the patrols in tight situations stories, this too must be a complete fiction, except for the end result. they were given a stimulant drug developed by the Germans, pervitin, The Finnish counterpart to Vasaloppet, Finlandia Ski Marathon, has which, in practice, was a metamfetamine-based drug. a much shorter history. It was first organized in 1974 and covered 75 Jouko Korhonen, who served as lieutenant during the war, said kilometers. In 1982, the number of skiers exceeded the magic amount in an interview in tabloid Ilta-Sanomat that he had given one of his of 10,000 participants (for the sake of the anecdote, among them was exhausted men three tablets to prevent him lagging behind from the Prince Tomohito of Japan). In 1984 Finlandia Ski Marathon reached rest of the patrol, while they were fleeing from the enemy. As soon a record of 13,000 participants, which made it in the Guinness Book as the weary man got the stimulants, he skied, in a deep unbroken of Records as the world’s largest mass ski event. snow, to the top of the bunch: "I told him to stay behind, but he So, what does the future look like for mass skiing events or would not obey me." ultra-long skiing distances? Indeed, the competition becomes more At times the use of the substance got out of control. Another patrol’s challenging each year: people are attracted to new sports, the climate scouting trip had to be cancelled, because the men had apparently got change is reducing skiing opportunities especially in the southern a bit too excited about the recreational use of pervitin. They began Finland, and so many other things compete for people’s free time. to hallucinate (stone houses in the middle of the wilderness, among On the other hand, perseverance, overcoming oneself and facing other things) and the team deputy commander started taking orders almost impossible challenges are eternal megatrends. This is why from a non-existent colonel. there will always be people who hear the calling of Eino Leino’s Let us return to Nordenskiöldsloppet. Despite the cognac and deep unbroken snow and blowing of the wind in a glooming and coffee, the race was obviously too hard an ordeal after all, as it was stormy night forest. s

photo: SA-Kuva

A ski patrol in Säkkijärvi, South Karelia during the Winter War, January 1940.

RESTAURANT

Tiiliholvi

Scandinavian dishes and local tastes in an old Jugend-house in the city center.

Kauppakatu 10, Tampere | Tel. 02 07 669 061 | tiiliholvi@tiiliholvi.fi | www.tiiliholvi.fi

BREWERY

DISTILLERY

BAR

THE BEST BREWERY AND DISTILLERY RESTAURANT IN TOWN

TEERENPELI TAMPERE - HAMEENKATU 25 - WWW.TEERENPELI.COM

Best

IN TAMPERE Enjoy good food and a great atmosphere!

Original Sokos Hotel Ilves

Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Tampere

Radisson Blu Grand Hotel Tammer

Hatanpään valtatie 1

Ratapihankatu 43

Hatanpään valtatie 1

Ratapihankatu 43

WWW.RAFLAAMO.FI

Satakunnankatu 13

photo: Laura Vanzo / Visit Tampere

Tampere in a nutshell

Prehistory The bedrock of the Tampere and Pirkanmaa region is part of one of the oldest chain of mountains on earth. The last ice age resulted the birth of a long line of ridges, as the melting ice drifted large amounts of gravel and soil. The ridge of Pyynikki rose from the Yoldian Sea and created pools of sweet water on both sides of the ridge. Those pools are now known as the two lakes outlining Tampere: Pyh채j채rvi and N채sij채rvi and the rapid caused by land rising higher in the north side of the ridge is known as the Tampere Rapids or Tammerkoski in Finnish. The first signs of permanent living in the area date to the 7th century. By the 13th century the area had developed into an important market place. In the Middle Ages, the Tampere region was inhabited by the Pirkka tribe. This feared tribe of hunters and trappers collected taxes as far north as Lapland. In 1779 Tampere was granted full township status by King Gustav III of Sweden. As a free city, rather small town with approximately 200 inhabitants was given major privileges on matters of tax and duty.

Written by Anna Eloaho

Industrial history

Tampere today

It was the industrial revolution, along with the Tampere Rapids, that made the big wheel turn in Tampere. Among the first foreign investors was Scotsman James Finlayson, who founded the first large-scale industrial enterprise in Finland, namely the Finlayson cotton mill in 1820. Finlayson’s name became synonymous with the six-storey factory he built at the water’s edge. The factory was the first in Nordic countries to have electric light and the brand name Finlayson still lives in the Finnish textile industry. During the latter half of the 19th century almost half of Finland’s industrial labour was situated in Tampere. Tampere gained its nickname “Manchester of the North” due to its industrial nature. Tamperenians call their beloved city “Manse” for short. The traditional chimney pipe industrialism began to vanish from the city centre in the late 1980’s and today the Rapids supply hydroelectric power.

Population: Tampere is the third largest city in Finland with over 235,000 inhabitants in the city region and over 375,000 inhabitants in its Metropolitan area. Education: Two universities and two polytechnic institutions result every fifth person in Tampere to be a student. Culture: Tampere is a city of theatre with its 10 professional theatres. The annual Tampere Theatre Festival (est. 1968) is the main theater festival in Finland and the oldest theatre festival in the Nordic countries. An international short film festival Tampere Film Festival is held every March. Tampere is also famous for writers depicting the lives of working-class people and for a special music genre known as “Manserock”. s

The trendiest karaoke bar and night club in Tampere

Bar Ihku is an entertainment world and it suits all tastes. It includes: a karaoke bar, a pub, a nightclub and a restaurant all under one roof. The story of Ihku takes us all the way to the Finnish Lapland. The first Bar Ihku was established on 2009 and is still the best place for crazy after ski party in the middle of Levi, a popular holiday destination in Lapland. ”Ihku” means ”in the night” in Saami, the original Lappish language.

OPEN EVERY DAY UNTIL 5AM!

The pub has a cosy atmosphere where you can watch live sports every day and enjoy high quality craft beers. We serve fresh and self-made food and we guarantee that no one leaves hungry. On the menu you can find hamburgers, cuts and the Tampere number one delicacies – wings. Our kitchen is open every day! Ihku Karaoke bar offers thousands of songs, the latest technology with lights and fog machine and the best hosts in the city, who are devoted to make You the star of the night. Ihku is a karaoke bar where friends come together for a fun-loving evening of singing and drinking cocktails, craft beers or whatever your heart desires. You are welcome to unleash your inner Celine Dion or Tom Jones in Bar Ihku!

Hämeenkatu 23, Tampere • ihkubar.fi

C ITY OF TAM PERE Bars, Pubs, Cafés

Night Clubs

and Live Music

G Livelab Tampere ........................... 33 Kauppuri Burger Bar (see Ihku Night Club) ...................................11 Moro Sky Bar ................................ 55*|9 Paja Bar ......................................... 56*|9 Purnauskis Cat Café ........................ 10 Tallipiha Stable Yards Cafe .............26 Teerenpeli ............................................8 Ukko Nooa Pub 5............................ 8*|9 Restaurants

Amarillo – Tex Mex ................. 50*|9 Antika – Greek Restaurant .......... 37 Dining 26 ....................................... 41 Frans & Marie ............................51*|9 Grill it! ....................................... 52*|9 Hella ja Huone ............................... 38 Masuuni Restaurant ................ 54*|9 Näsinneula Restaurant (see Näsinneula Observation Tower) .............6 Periscope Restaurant ...................40 Piemonte – Italian Wine Bar & Restaurant ................ 36 Pyy Restaurant .............................34 Tiiliholvi ..........................................7 Trattoria Tammer .....................57*|9 Winebridge ....................................39 Zarillo – Western & Tex Mex ....... 35

Shoe Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15

Ihku Night Club & Karaoke ...........11 Ilves Bar&Night ........................53*|9 Hotels & Hostels

See pages 20–21 and 22. Museums, Galleries and Exhibitions

Amuri Museum of Workers' Housing ...............................102 Finnish Museum of Games (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15 Ice Hockey Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15 Lenin Museum ..............................20 Mobilia – Automobile and Road Museum ........................24 Moomin Museum .......................... 17 Museum of Minerals (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15 Museum of Natural History (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15 Post Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15 Police Museum .............................. 23 Rubriikki Media Museum (Vapriikki Museum Centre) ...................... 15

Sara Hildén Art Museum .............. 16 Serlachius Museums (Mänttä) ........ 21 Spy Museum ..................................22 Steam Engine Museum (Werstas) .... 19 Tampere Art Museum ................... 18 Textile Industry Museum (Werstas) .. 19 Vapriikki Museum Centre ............ 15 Werstas – The Finnish Labour Museum (in Finlayson area) ... 19 Events and Activities

See pages 2–3. More events and Tampere info: visittampere.fi. Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 20–21.

More information in the Internet – see www.visittampere.fi 18

SELECTED SERVICES AND PLACES IN TAMPERE AREA.

Locations are marked on the map (pages 20–21) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Other Services & Sights

Children and Families

Spa

Central Post Office of Tampere ............1 Dance Theatre MD ........................ 32 Finlayson area ............................. 2*|1 First Aid Unit Acuta (Tampere University Hospital) ........... 3 Haihara Art Centre ...............................64 Hatanpää Arboretum ............... 30*|1 Laikku Culture House .........................65 Laukontori Market Place ...................... 6 Main Library Metso ................................ 7 Market Hall ......................................2 Näsinneula Observation Tower in Särkänniemi (see Näsinneula Restaurant) ..........................34 Police Station ............................................9 Pyynikki Observation Tower ... 10*|1 Ratina Festival Park .............................. 12 Seitseminen National Park and Nature Centre ......................................... 14 Tallipiha Stable Yards – Shops Open ................................26 Tammelantori Market Place .............. 16 Tampere Cathedral ............................... 17 Tampere Exhibition and Sports Centre (Pirkkahalli) ................................... 18 Tampere Philharmonic Orchestra (Tampere Hall) ....................................... 3 Tampere Congress Hall and Concert Centre .............................. 19

Dance Theatre MD ........................ 32 Moomin Museum .......................... 17 Pikku Kakkonen Playground (Pikku Kakkosen puisto) ................................36 Rulla Children's Cultural Centre ..... 21 Särkänniemi Amusement Park (See also Näsinneula) ....................................20 Traffic Park for Children .....................22 Vapriikki Museum Centre ............ 15

Holiday Club Tampereen Kylpylä – a spa hotel ............................................28 Scandic Eden Nokia .............................29

Sports

Hakametsä – Tampere Ice Stadium .......................23 SuperPark – indoor activity park ...................29 Tampere Stadium Ratina ...................24 Swimming and Sauna all year round

Transportation

Tampere City Transport Office .........40 Tampere-Pirkkala Airport ................. 31 Tampere Bus Terminal .......................32 Railway Station ...................................... 33

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET Tampere Times MapApp: www.tamperetimes.fi

Kaupinoja – sauna bathing by the lake .......4*|1 Laukontori Sauna Pavilion ...... 43*|1 Pyynikki Swimming Hall .............27 Rajaportti Sauna ........................11*|1 Rauhaniemi Beach and Public Sauna .....................13*|11

Photos: Laura Vanzo / visit tampere

Please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you! 19

â&#x20AC;&#x201A; YOU ARE HERE! Hotels providing Tampere Times are marked on the map with numbered blue dots. The number of your hotel can be found from the list on page 22.

Tampere

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET

Tampere Times Map App is available for your use in

www.tamperetimes.fi

Finland Norway

Sweden

Russia

Poland

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16 14

11 29

11*

102 18 3

2 10*

28 20

ÂŠ City of Tampere

28 18

13*

4 21

35*

26 15 4 17 21 19

22 10

57*

40 35*

16 3

33 13

2 32

41 2

39 53*

1 17

50* 51*

35*

54* 58*

52* 55* 56*

5 9

1 36

14 64

43*

4 12

24 7 30*

ADVERTISERS ARE PLACED ON THE MAP WITH GREEN DOTS.

* Some advertisers have several spots on the map. The numbers can be found on pages 18–19. 21

PLEASE LEAVE THIS MAGAZINE FOR THE NEXT GUEST – THANK YOU!

Tampere Times is available in these high standard Hotels & Hostels

01 Dream Hostel Tampere

07 Mango Hotel Tampere

13 Scandic Tampere City

Åkerlundinkatu 2, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 45 236 0517 www.dreamhostel.fi

Hatanpään puistokuja 36, 33900 Tampere www.mangohotel.fi Tel. +358 10 666 2111

Hämeenkatu 1, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 244 6111 www.scandichotels.fi

02 Forenom Aparthotel Tampere City

08 Original Sokos Hotel Ilves

14 Scandic Tampere Hämeenpuisto

Hatanpään valtatie 1, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4631 www.sokoshotels.fi

Hämeenpuisto 47, 33200 Tampere Tel. +358 3 4108 1628 www.scandichotels.fi

09 Original Sokos Hotel Villa

15 Scandic Tampere Koskipuisto

Sumeliuksenkatu 14, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4633 www.sokoshotels.fi

Koskikatu 5, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 3 4108 1626 www.scandichotels.fi

04 Hotel Homeland

10 Radisson Blu Grand Hotel Tammer

16 Scandic Tampere Station

Kullervonkatu 19, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 3126 0200 www.homeland.fi

Satakunnankatu 13, 33100 Tampere Tel. +358 20 123 4632 www.radissonblu.com

05 Hotel Kauppi

11 Scandic Eden Nokia

Kalevan puistotie 2, 33500 Tampere Tel. +358 3 253 5353 www.hotelli-kauppi.fi

Paratiisikatu 2, 37120 Nokia Tel. +358 3 4108 1627 www.scandichotels.fi

06 Lapland Hotel Tampere

12 Scandic Rosendahl

18 Spa Hotel Holiday Club Tampereen Kylpylä

Yliopistonkatu 44, 33100 Tampere Tel. + 358 3 383 0000 www.laplandhotels.com

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Juhani Harri, Winds. 1968. Assemblage. 56,5 x 66,5 x 12,5 cm. Sara Hildén Foundation.

SARA HILDÉN ART MUSEUM:

Changing

exhibitions of modern and

contemporary art Text by Sarianne Soikkonen and Anne Kauramäki

he Sara Hildén Art Museum is based on a collection assembled by the Finnish businesswoman and art collector Sara Hildén. When the museum was opened to the public in 1979, it was described in the media as the biggest and most modern art museum in Finland. Today, the Sara Hildén Art Museum remains one of the most important museums presenting modern and contemporary art in Finland. The museum’s activities include exhibitions of works in the Sara Hildén Foundation’s collection, presentations of contemporary Finnish art and above all high-quality expositions of international modern and contemporary art such as Alex Katz (2009), Wilhelm Sasnal (2010), Subodh Gupta (2011), German Expressionism (2012), Thomas Schütte (2013), Ellen Gallagher (2013), Andy Warhol (2014), Erwin Wurm (2015), Ron Mueck (2016), Robert Longo (2017), Berlinde De Bruyckere (2018), Anj Smith (2018) and Kiki Smith (2019). Located on the shore of Lake Näsijärvi, the Sara Hildén Art museum is surrounded by a sculpture park open to the public all year round.

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photo: jussi Koivunen

Juhani Harri, Motherhood. 1996. Installation. The Kuntsi Foundation / Kuntsi Museum of Modern Art.

Art Collector Sara Hildén Sara Hildén was born in Tampere in 1905. She spent most of her childhood living with her grandparents in the nearby municipality of Lempäälä, returning to the city of her birth only after the death of her parents in 1919. The 14-year-old Sara obtained a position as a sales assistant in a clothes store, thus setting out on her career in the clothes business. As a result of her interest in the literature, theatre and art, Sara Hildén gained friends in various fields of the arts. Through them she met the painter Erik Enroth, whom she married in 1949. HER DAILY ROUTINE IN PARIS WAS A STRICT ONE:

IN THE MORNING SHOWS IN THE FASHION HOUSES AND IN THE EVENING VISITS TO THE GALLERIES

photo: Hannu Teriö

AND MUSEUMS AND MEETINGS WITH ARTISTS.

The Sara Hildén Foundation was established in 1962 when Sara Hildén donated her collection of works of art to the foundation. The core of the foundation’s collection consisted of over 500 paintings from Erik Enroth’s early period (1945–1963). In 1961 Sara Hildén began to collect foreign modern art with help of curators from the Finnish National Gallery. She attended all the Venice Biennales from 1962 to 1972, and she also visited Paris regularly. Her daily routine in Paris was a strict one: in the morning it consisted of shows in the fashion houses and in the evening of visits to the galleries and museums and meetings with artists. It was on these journeys that she made her most important acquisitions. Among the best-known classics in the collection are Pablo Picasso’s Glass and Violin (1912–13), Alberto Giacometti’s Woman on a Chariot (1943), Paul Delvaux’s Summer (1938), Francis Bacon’s Two Studies for a Portrait of George Dyer (1968) and Henry Moore’s Reclining Mother and Child (1960–61). As a collector of Finnish contemporary art, Sara Hildén stood out particularly as a bold supporter of young artists. The Finnish part of the collection consisted in the early years mainly of art from the 1960s and 1970s, but there were also works by artists who influenced the development of modernism in Finland at the beginning of twentieth century such as Helene Schjerfbeck, Tyko Sallinen, Ragnar Ekelund and Otto Mäkilä. Not only was the number of Finnish artists in the collection considerable, but many of them, like Kauko Lehtinen and Kimmo Kaivanto, were represented a large number of works. Sara Hildén Art Museum

Professor Sara Hildén and Professor E.J. Vehmas at the inauguration of the Sara Hildén Art Museum in February 1979.

The Sara Hildén Foundation and the City of Tampere signed an agreement in 1975 to found the Sara Hildén Art Museum. The museum, designed by the architect Pekka Ilveskoski and associates, was opened to the public on 11th February 1979. Located in the Särkänniemi area beside beautiful Lake Näsijärvi, the museum presents a total surface area of 2,500 square meters. The museum building is designed in two 26

photo: jussi Koivunen

THE AUTUMN EXHIBITION IS A LARGE-SCALE

RETROSPECTIVE OF FINNISH ARTIST JUHANI HARRI, A PIONEER OF ASSEMBLAGE ART IN FINLAND.

storeys to make the best use of the terrain. The entrance, office wing and painting galleries are on the upper floor whereas the sculpture galleries, café and storage areas are on the lower floor. The large windows in the galleries offer museum guests spectacular views of the sculpture park surrounding the museum as well as Lake Näsijärvi. The museum is maintained by the City of Tampere as stipulated in the agreement. It is the permanent home of the Sara Hildén Foundation’s collection, the care and presentation of which is its primary function. Its activities are inspired by Sara Hildén’s personal and passionate association with modern art: she related to her works of art as if they were her own children; she cherished them and was always ready to talk about them and present them; and the acquisition of a new work for the collection was always a cause for celebration. The collection of the Sara Hildén Foundation has continued to grow out of long and focused work by experts. The foundation continues to enhance the collection and to present it in the Sara Hildén Art Museum. The new acquisitions in the 21st century offer a wide spectrum of Finnish and international art. The Finnish section of the collection has been augmented in recent years with works by Carolus Enckell, Jaakko Mattila, Marika Mäkilä, Jussi Niva, Silja Rantanen, Anna Retulainen, Marianna Uutinen, Kari Vehosalo and others. The most recent foreign artists whose works have been added to the collection are Jacob Dahlgren, Ellen Gallagher, Subodh Gupta, Daniel Jacoby, Chantal Joffe and Erwin Wurm, Berlinde De Bruyckere and Anj Smith. Exhibitions

The scale of Harri’s assemblages grew in the 1970s. His expression found clarity and many works became dominated by a single figure instead of numerous details. The neorealistic spirit of the era was visible in Harri’s paintings in a newfound sternness. Harri made friends with the American artist Edward Kienholz, whose opinionated works may have played a role in this shift in Harri’s work. Juhani Harri’s retrospective exhibition is part of the Sara Hildén Art Museum’s exhibition series of artists represented in the Sara Hildén Foundation Collection. The selection includes nearly 100 works by Harri from 1960 until 2002. Alongside assemblages, Harri’s oeuvre also included installations, two of them in the exhibition: A Dream of a Long Gray Feverish Night (1992) and Motherhood (1996). Still Still Life exhibition, opening in February, is an overview of the still-life genre and of the interpretations and forms that the still life has taken on in modern and contemporary art. The exhibition is based on works in the Sara Hildén Foundation Collection. Its modern classics include Pablo Picasso’s Glass and Violin (1912–13), Juan Gris’ Guitar and Set-Square (1926), Fernand Léger’s Colourful Flower (1937) and Composition (1938), and from a modernist especially noted for his still lifes, Giorgio Morandi, Still life (1953), plus Nicolas de Staël’s Artichokes (1954), Arman’s assemblages Skeleton of Achilles (1960), Homage to Mac Mahon (1961) and Broken Violin (early 1960s), and Fernando Botero’s Homage to Caravaggio (1968). Finnish modernism is represented by Sara Hildén’s husband, the painter Erik Enroth. Centrally featured in the exhibition is the internationally renowned Finnish graphic artist Pentti Kaskipuro (1930–2010). s

Photo: Jussi Koivunen

The autumn exhibition is a large-scale retrospective of Finnish artist Juhani Harri (1939–2003). Harri was a pioneer of assemblage art in Finland. His central aim was to portray time and its evanescent nature. His works share a mysterious and emotionally driven narration. Juhani Harri started his artistic career with colour and material experiments in the early 1960s. He soon became interested in assemblages and placed his finely assembled compositions in boxes, which he hung on walls. An emotional affinity can be felt between Harri’s works and the American object artist Joseph Cornell as well as the French-born Arman.

Pentti Kaskipuro, Egg and Eggshell. Drypoint, aquatint, 155 x 175 mm. Sara Hildén Foundation.

JUHANI HARRI 14.9.2019–12.1.2020 STILL STILL LIFE 1.2.–17.5.2020 SARA HILDÉN ART MUSEUM Laiturikatu 13, Särkänniemi. Open Tues–Sun 10–18

SEE GREEN NUMBER 16 ON MAP (PAGE 20).

photo: Elonet

Summer night’s passion,

a vampire witch

on the snowfields The Finnish cinema lives on the conflicts between exceptional individuals and the system

Written by Kari Salminen Translated by Tiina Erkintalo

he history of Finnish cinema is written much like the history of cinema everywhere else. At the beginning, there were the pioneers, then began the classical studio era, followed by the new wave and finally by the triumphal march of commercial entertainment. "The Finnish Hollywood" flourished in the 1930s and 40s, led by two big studios, Suomi-Filmi (1919–1980) and Suomen Filmiteollisuus (1933–1965). The industrial mode of production and the star system worked their magic. The Finns went to the movies more than ever since. Today the Finnish cinema of the studio era is remembered, along with its stars, for its film series and the production cycles that helped maximize the profits. Folksy musical comedies (the so called rillumarei films), historical romances, military farces, rural dramas (Niskavuori series), saga of an urban family (The Suominens series), and crime stories (Inspector Palmu series) still live in the nation’s collective consciousness. The studios began to lose their ground at the turn of the 50s and 60s. Jörn Donner – Finnish film director and Ingmar Bergman’s producer for the Best Foreign Film Oscar winning Fanny & Alexander – wrote his manifesto The Finnish Film in Year Zero in 1961, calling for reform. The new wave did hit the Finnish cinema, but it was shortly followed by a turn towards new realism and naturalism led by patriarchal directors such as Rauni Mollberg and Mikko Niskanen. Mirjami Kuosmanen as Pirita in White Reindeer (1952), directed by Erik Blomberg.

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DEPARTURE FROM MÄNTTÄ

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Tampere railway station 6.45 pm Tampere bus station 6.50 pm

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Goldshmied & Chiari, Where shall we go dancing tonight?, 2015, site specific installation. Courtesy Museion, Bolzano & the artists. Photo: Meneghel / Zanella. | Helene Schjerfbeck, Rosy-Cheeked Girl, 1927. Photo: Hannu Miettinen.

All photos: Elonet

Tuulikki Paananen and Ilmari Mänty in Nyrki Tapiovaara's Stolen Death (1938).

Tauno Palo and Ansa Ikonen in Toivo Särkkä's The Vagabond’s Valse (1941).

The great commercial success of Finnish cinema in the 2000s began with the youth film Levottomat (2000). Film directors became trained hired hands and power shifted to the film producers, among whom the most notable is Markus Selin. He started as a partner to film director Renny Harlin, who in turn went as far as Hollywood and now succeeds in China. This new generation distanced themselves from the politicized new wave as well as the large productions with national emphasis. Great artists work within or outside the system. One of the outsiders was leftist radical Nyrki Tapiovaara, who died in the Second World War. His films from the pioneering times had a unique aesthetic style and were of an international class. The Russian-born Theodor Tugai, later Teuvo Tulio, directed 16 strangely fervent noir melodramas in four decades (1936–1972). Another Russian-born and equally style-sensitive was Valentin Vaala, who made as many as 39 films for Suomi-Filmi Studios between 1935-63. His 1948 rendering of Nobel-laureate F.E. Sillanpää’s novel Ihmiset suviyössä (People in the summer night, 1934) is one of the masterpieces of Finnish cinema. Erik Blomberg was yet another original filmmaker. His Valkoinen peura (White Reindeer, 1952) is based on a tale from Sámi folklore and enjoyed also international success. Women in Finnish cinema should not be overlooked. Tulio’s films featured and some of them were also written by Regina Linnanheimo, the beloved film star with flaming eyes. The film White Reindeer in turn was very much a movie by the director’s wife Mirjami Kuosmanen, as she originated the idea, wrote the script and played the main role. One major work rises above the rest in the history of Finnish cinema, the monumental war movie Tuntematon sotilas (The Unknown Soldier, 1955). It is based on a novel by Väinö Linna of the same name, and has been filmed twice since, in 1985 and 2018. In contemporary Finnish cinema, Aki Kaurismäki is an exception, along with his brother Mika. Especially Aki is an all-time favourite of international film critics and film festival networks. He has refined his enthusiasm for films and the influences taken from film history (Chaplin, Renoir, Bresson, Fassbinder and the French new wave) into a unique cinematic postmodernism topped with national nostalgia and kitschy mise-en-scène. Another exceptional case was the one-man film factory Pertti ‘Spede’ Pasanen. His films went down extremely well, even though they were made with cheap TV style. Especially the 20-piece Uuno Turhapuro series (1973–2004) is a monument of national pop movie, whose male and marital satire can only be understood by a Finn, if any. An earlier, similar phenomenon was the 50s Pekka & Pätkä series of films based on popular comic books. The Finns love these picaresque losers, who end up winning even when they lose. s

Veikko Sinisalo (left) and Åke Lindman as corporals Lahtinen and Lehto in Edvin Laine's The Unknown Soldier (1955).

ONE MAJOR WORK RISES ABOVE THE REST, THE MONUMENTAL WAR MOVIE THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER.

"The most Finnish" classics

Nyrki Tapiovaara: Stolen Death (Varastettu kuolema, 1938) Influenced by French impressionism and Russian school of montage, the film is an experimental thriller about activists in the period of Russian oppression in Finland at the turn of the 20th century.

Toivo Särkkä: The Vagabond’s Valse (Kulkurin valssi, 1941) The second most watched Finnish film in history is the climax of historical-romantic studio style.

Valentin Vaala: Ihmiset suviyössä (People in the Summer Night, 1948) Sillanpää-remake of the raging Finnish blood during a Midsummer’s Eve with homosexual references.

Erik Blomberg & Mirjami Kuosmanen: White Reindeer (Valkoinen peura, 1952) The Nordic folk horror movie is well known worldwide.

Edvin Laine: The Unknown Soldier (Tuntematon sotilas, 1955) A nationally unifying war epic.

Mikko Niskanen: Eight Deadly Shots (Kahdeksan surmanluotia, 1972) A reconstructuring epic of police murders filled with fumes of moonshine and male self-pity.

Rauni Mollberg: The Earth is a Sinful Song (Maa on syntinen laulu, 1973) The grotesque depiction of rural life still makes one shiver with its power of folk ballad combined with crude naturalism.

N AT I O N A L

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Spies and their equipment that changed the world

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The world’s first spy museum in the city center introduces you to the fascinating ways and means of real life James Bonds. Eavesdropping, hidden cameras, secret weapons, code breaking, e-mail hacking...

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Translation books in 10 languages!

Museum is open Mon-Sun 12-18 Admission 9€ / 6€ Agent Test 5€

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Minna Canth

- The champion of girls’ rights and equality Minna Canth (1844-1897) was a writer, a social critic and a spokeswoman of women’s rights. She was also a merchant, a widow at the age of 36

and a single parent of seven. A true superhero of her time, Minna’s 175th anniversary is being celebrated this year. written BY Pauliina Eriksson Translated by Tiina Erkintalo

But who was this stern-eyed woman familiar Above all, Canth is known for her realistic and from history book photographs, and what is social-critical plays, where the themes that were her message to us? What was the woman close to her reoccur. Premiered in 1885, the behind the photographs really like? play Työmiehen vaimo (The Labourer’s Minna Canth (born Johnson) was Wife) deals with the subordinate born in Tampere, Finland. She was status of a wife in a marriage, while among the first to attend the newly another, Papin perhe (1891, The Vicar’s established Jyväskylä teacher’s college Family) addresses the gap between to become a primary school teacher. generations. In Anna Liisa (1895), Her studies, however, ended social equality, morality and the after the first semester as she got theme of reconciliation are raised married to Ferdinand Canth, her through a young female character. science teacher. The plays by Minna Canth have Minna Canth lived at a time been translated into several when it was not suitable for a languages, and they are still read married woman to study, let alone in schools today. take part in social debate. Despite Recently, several books about disapproval from the society around Minna Canth’s life and work has her, she worked together with her been published, offering new husband in a newspaper and, among perspectives to her work and their other things, had a house built for her significance for Finnish culture. Suvi family. Her husband’s early death left Minna Ahola, a journalist and critic of Helsingin alone with seven children, after which she Sanomat newspaper, writes in her book moved to the city of Kuopio in Eastern Finland Mitä Minna Canth todella sanoi? (What Minna to take over and successfully run her father’s draper’s Canth Really Said, 2019) how love in its all forms shop. In Kuopio she also started her famous was a persistent subject in Canth’s works. In literary salon where writers, artists, intellectuals her plays Canth depicts love in a highly Minna Canth in 1880. and cultural influencers of the time used to meet realistic way, often forbidden and punishable. and discuss current social and cultural topics. The novel Rouva C (Mrs. C, 2018) by Minna ‘THE WOMEN’S ISSUE IS Minna Canth was the first woman to write Rytisalo, on the other hand, shows us a very NOT ONLY A QUESTION literature in Finnish. She was in frequent different woman – Minna who is happy and OF WOMEN, BUT OF ALL correspondence with her contemporaries, wrote equal in her marriage. And yet she too has to regularly opinion pieces to newspapers and did HUMANITY.’ struggle between her dedication to work and not hesitate to say what she thought. Her goals – the role of a mother. In addition, colourful gender equality, women’s empowerment and reduction of poverty non-fiction books for children entice younger readers to read and and inequality – remain relevant even today. She advocated for girls’ learn about her life and provide an excellent role model even for right to study and, according to the well-known quote, understood children today. the relevance of women’s rights in terms of all humankind, not Minna Canth was the first Finnish woman to get her own flag merely as women’s issue. She encouraged her own daughters to day. She would certainly be pleased that her birthday, March 19th, study as much as possible. is also celebrated as Equality Day. s 32

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The future of live music in Tampere

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Photo Harri Hinkka

CHOREOGRAPHY SAMULI ROININEN

Photo Harri Hinkka

Photo Ari Ijäs

GHOST VISITORS

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Come and visit our world-class venue during your stay in Tampere! Find out more: glivelab.fi/tampere

G Livelab offers a new kind of live music experience built on quality programming, state of the art audio facilities and modern design. At G Livelab you’ll experience performances by top artists from Finland and abroad in the best possible setting – whether enjoying the delicate sounds of a string quartet, the loud guitars of a rock band or anything in between.

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TAMPERE TIMES

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The magic circles of hotels

Written by Heikki Kännö Translated by Owen F. Witesman

my book Sömnö, I write about the magic circles conjured by hotels, which upon entry allow travelers to imagine that they are anywhere in the world. My narrator, Isak Severin, describes his experience in these words: “The metal-clad doors slid open, and I walked down the burgundy, wall-to-wall carpet of the corridor, the air conditioning separating me from the seasons of the world and the heat of the Congo as the illusion continued. Outside those walls covered in their dark wallpaper it was impossible that a metropolis choked by exhaust fumes could be violently churning.” I’ve often thought of a hotel elevator shaft as a birth canal through which a traveler re-enters the world after refreshing himself in his room. He stands for a moment in the shower and then writes in his travel diary or scrolls through his social media feeds before taking a short nap and stepping back out into the strange city as a new person. Woe unto the times we have mistakenly chosen a hotel room with poor transit connections, too far from those sights worth exploring. For example, I remember Rome only as one long exhausting slog under a relentless sun. The journey to our hotel was like a trip to another city. The room was so small that in addition to the bed, space remained only to place our feet next to it on the floor, so spending time there was impossible. We rested on park benches and stretched our backs on the grass beneath the trees. Because that hotel lacked a magic circle, I have rarely felt myself so exhausted than after that trip.

The last day of any journey is always its own animal, something I look forward to with mounting horror. Usually your hotel room must be relinquished by mid-day, leaving you homeless as you await the departure of the means of transportation for the next leg of your journey. And of course, you’ve scheduled activities for those hours: an interesting museum, souvenir shopping, or a final meal in a restaurant that you’ve saved for now. Yet an anxiety fills your mind that you’ll have to spend the rest of the day standing or walking with no opportunity to close a door even for a moment between yourself and this foreign reality. However, none of this means that the magic circles of hotels are only to be found in air conditioning, warm showers, and soundproof windows. The exoticism of a hotel can also do a similar service for a traveler, sometimes even by way of a nightmare. Years ago in Mexico, we arrived by taxi in a small village named Mazunte. I was the only one who at our previous, very primitive stopping place had brushed his teeth with bottled water, so I was also the only one who was still on his feet. We stayed at a small hotel on the top of a mountain rising from the beach. The only free room was the best and most expensive in the hotel; concerned, the proprietor asked whether we really wanted it, since it cost a full 35 euros per night. I killed two flaming red scorpions in the bathroom of our room and then set out the extra bed for myself under the glassless windows. As dusk fell, the members of the party who were ill walked back and forth between the bathroom and their beds by the narrow

Finally, morning penetrated the wooden shades, and I walked out onto the porch. This was like a second room to our suite, a space with rock walls and a ceiling of palm leaves and a view over the village and the ocean shimmering in the sun. Standing there breathing in the fresh breeze, I saw the wide wings of a caracara forming a cross gliding beneath me. I squinted far out to sea, and straight in front of me, as if out of a postcard, the tail of a whale broke the water before diving down again. My sick companions began to crawl from their beds, and some of them felt well enough to go to breakfast. The hotel’s mainly vegetarian cuisine turned out to be excellent, and wooden stairs some hundred meters long descended straight from our porch to the ocean. We had found the magic circle of a hotel again. s 37

Heikki Kännö (b. 1968) is an author and visual artist based in Turku, Finland. He has graduated from the renowned Turku School of Fine Arts (Turun piirustuskoulu). Having worked as an independent artist and graphic designer for some years, Kännö realised that he wanted to tell stories and work with words. Kännö’s first book, Mehiläistie (Sammakko, 2017), was nominated for several literature prizes and his second, Sömnö (2018), was awarded the distinguished Runeberg Prize in 2019. Translation rights of Sömnö have been sold to several countries. Kännö’s novels are set around the world and require a lot of research, thus hotels and travelling are close to his heart.

With more than forty published titles spanning all genres, Owen F. Witesman is the most prolific literary translator ever of Finnish into English. His translations include eleven novels from the Maria Kallio mystery series byLeena Lehtolainen, Sofi Oksanen's Norma, and Laura Lindstedt's Oneiron. He resides in Springville, Utah, with his family.

Photo: Helena Kulmala

beam of a flashlight while the surrounding jungle encroached upon us with a cacophony of chirps, whines, and screams. When I closed my eyes, I saw images of demons and spider gods carved into the walls of Aztec ruins. Then, the moment I fell asleep, I awoke to a loud scratching coming from inside the bag I had dropped on the floor. One of my feverish traveling companions stood beside my bed. “What is it?” she asked. We were both thinking of the fist-sized tarantulas we’d seen running across the road from the windows of the bus. I turned the bag upside down, and the crab that had crawled into my things scampered under the front door, back whence it had come.

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