Turku Times 2/18 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

2/2018

Welcome to Turku, an international meeting place!

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

The long journey to the top – Finland and ice hockey

FOUR ELEMENTS

Turku Art Museum's broad exhibition

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

WHY I LOVE TO STRAY

A column by Siri Kolu

There’s no need to whisper in today’s library

WELCOME TO TURKU! Urban legends since 1229 MUSIC TURKU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AND TURKU CONCERT HALL

Turku Philharmonic Orchestra offers a wide range of concerts from September to May both in Turku Concert Hall and in the many historical venues of Turku and the beautiful archipelago. The weekly symphony concerts feature guest artists from Finland and abroad. The orchestra’s 74 musicians are enjoying the artistic leadership of world renowned Chief Conductor Leif Segerstam until the end of spring season 2019.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES in Kupittaa area, only 2 km from the city centre

LIBRARY TURKU CITY LIBRARY Linnankatu 2 Open every day, Turku City Library is set in the impressive architecture of two buildings combined as a whole. The library features several areas for events and exhibitions as well as plenty of places to read. The visitor can delve into the thousands of journals in either paper or electronic format. A wireless network is available in all areas for the use of laptops, but visitors also have access to multiple computers.

ADVENTURE PARK (Seikkailupuisto) is a cultural centre for children and families, located on the edges of the Kupittaanpuisto-park area. Adventure Park is open all year round and best suitable for children aged 0 to 12. During the summer the park’s attractions include a shower sponge, a wading pool, a brook that twists around the park and a traffic town. During the winter season, there’s plenty to do in the park’s indoor facilities, including club and theatre activities, music play schools and open art workshops. TURKU.FI/EN/ADVENTURE-PARKSEIKKAILUPUISTO

Aninkaistenkatu 9

KUPITTAA SPORTS CENTER An excellent place to spend an active day with family, or a perfect place for the active enthusiast or spectator, in any season. The area contains football fields, an indoor sports arena and Finnish baseball fields. Visitors may use free of charge roller coaster rink, outdoor gym, beach volleyball courts and BMX track. Just like a well-furnished living room, it offers a perfect place for a cosy picnic in the green park or a nice refreshing swim in the outdoor swimming pool. TURKU.FI/EN/SPORTS

TURKU.FI/EN/CULTURE_AND_SPORTS

MUSEUMS Linnankatu 80 Tue–Sun 10–18 and 3 Jun–1 Sep Mon–Sun 10–18 The majestic Turku Castle has guarded the mouth of the river Aura since the end of 13th century. Concealed inside the tall, grey stone walls are the secrets and dramatic twists of Finnish, Swedish and Nordic history. The atmospheric rooms of the medieval castle, the renaissance splendour and the wonderful architecture, will astonish all who visit. During its history the castle has been defended and besieged, frequently changing hands between medieval leaders. During the time of Duke John court life at the castle was transformed, with the introduction of the latest clothing fashions and the enjoyment of sumptuous dining. In later periods the castle would also be used as a barracks, a warehouse and a prison.

PHARMACY MUSEUM AND THE QWENSEL HOUSE Läntinen Rantakatu 13 Tue–Sun 10–18 and 3 Jun–1 Sep Mon–Sun 10–18 The museum features a bourgeois home from the 18th century and a pharmacy from the 19th century under one roof. The Qwensel House is the oldest remaining wooden building in Turku. The interior is decorated in the rococo and Gustavian styles of the late 18th century. In the Pharmacy Museum the oldest items on display are over 200 years old, and the pharmacy’s shopping area houses the oldest remaining pharmacy interior in Finland. The idyllic 18th century courtyard in the

middle of the city is a relaxing spot in the midst of all the hustle and bustle. Cafe Qwensel offers old-style delicacies made on the premises.

LUOSTARINMÄKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM Vartiovuorenkatu 2 20 Apr–2 Jun Tue–Sun 10–18 and 3 Jun–1 Sep Mon-Sun 10–18 In 1827 the Great Fire of Turku caused massive destruction, but Luostarinmäki was spared from the flames. Nowadays the old quarter and artisans of Luostarinmäki form a unique atmosphere, where time stands still. At the museum, journey in time to life of the common folk from the 1800’s. The museum presents the professions of the preindustrial era, with many different handicraft workshops located in the houses.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Tue–Sun 10–18. Closed during exhibition changeover 14 Jan–7 Feb and 20 May–6 Jun. The Wäinö Aaltonen museum is dedicated to the late, Turku born sculptor and operates as the city art museum by the riverbank. Offerings include changing exhibitions, new and experimental art projects as well as various cultural events. Exhibitions • Salla Tykkä 8 Feb–19 May • H. C. Berg 7 Jun–22 Sep TURKU.FI/EN/MUSEUM We reserve the right to make changes.

TURKU CASTLE

Delicious flavours and a good atmosphere for every occassion. Pippurimylly is a nostalgic family restaurant. We have been offering tasty steaks and pizzas since 1974.

Stålarminkatu 2, 20810 Turku / +358 2 277 3350 / www.pippurimylly.fi ma-pe 11-23 / la 12-23 / su 12-21

Restaurant Teini is a landmark in the local culinary history. Teini has been serving classic dishes in the historical Juselius Mansion since 1924. Let the nostalgic atmosphere enchant you.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330203 / www.ravintolateini.fi ma-pe 11-23 / la 12-23 / su 12-21

A cozy atmosphere, wide variety of beers, good wines and burgers. Everything is served in a fancy old factory setting next to the Aura river.

Läntinen Rantakatu 55, 20100 Turku / +358 2 2588000 / www.rantakerttu.fi ma-pe 11-22 / la 12-22 / su 12-19

Gastropub Löytö – laid-back place to enjoy a great burger and a pint or two – always in good company. Pop in! With us you won't feel lost.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330205 / www.gastropubloyto.fi ma-to 11-24 / pe 11-02 / la 14-02 / su 15-22

RAVANTIT STÅLARMINKATU 2, 20810 TURKU / PUH. +358 2 277 3350

CONTENTS Welcome to Turku, an international meeting place! 8 The long journey to the top – Finland and ice hockey 10 Selected services & places 14 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 16 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 18 Turku timeline 20 Four Elements 22 There’s no need to whisper in today’s library 26 Why I love to stray – A column by Siri Kolu 28

Turku Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2018 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN: 2342-2823 Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos Refuge by Maiju Salmenkivi. Photo: Vesa Aaltonen River Aura. Photo: Vesa Aaltonen The Old Great Square Christmas Market. Photo: City of Turku Skaters at Jääsaaga event. Photo: Juha Jokinen Turku Castle. Photo: Minna Valonen Ice Swimming. Photo: Visit Turku Siri Kolu. Photo: Mirva Kakko

Turku Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi. Turku Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 18). Next Turku Times issue is out in April 2019. 6

BUS LINES

220, 221 and 300

STOP AT MYLLY

ONLY 15 MIN FROM THE HEART OF TURKU!

THE LARGEST SHOPPING CENTRE IN SOUTHWEST FINLAND

Open every day! Mon-Fri 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sat 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sun 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Shopping Centre Mylly, Myllynkatu 1 FI-21280 Raisio | kauppakeskusmylly.fi

facebook.com /kauppakeskusmylly instagram.com/myllykauppakeskus

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photo: Vesa Aaltonen / City of Turku

Welcome to Turku,

an international meeting place! urku has always been first and foremost a coastal city, a port and a place of trade. The meetings of cultures around the city have been significant to the development of Turku into the city it is today. Internationality and multiculturalism can still be seen in Turku in the great variety of nationalities, languages and customs. Today, roughly one hundred languages are spoken in the city, and about 130 different nationalities are represented here. Turku will be celebrating its 800th anniversary in 2029, which makes it the oldest city in Finland. Turku has served as a pioneer in urbanisation and international connections in Finland. Today, Turku is a modern, rapidly evolving city and also one of the centres of trade, industry and culture in Finland. Furthermore, Turku is a university city. The city has six institutions of higher education with a total of approximately 40,000Â students and teachers. Turku is a very popular student city: according to a recent study, as many as 99 per cent of students recommend studying in Turku to their friends, and almost as many feel that Turku is a good place to live. In Turku, the cooperation between institutions of higher education, the city and businesses is concrete and aims to grow the city sustainably. The marine industry, b i o t e ch n o l o g y,

logistics, tourism and the creative industries are among the top business fields in Turku. Enjoy Turku, beauty of the archipelago and nature experiences The River Aura is the living room of the residents of Turku and it holds a deep meaning for them as a popular place for spending time. In summer, the river banks fill up with sunbathers, and riverboats and terraces with people enjoying the light evenings. In the dark of the autumn and winter, people walking along the river can enjoy the atmosphere created by the beautiful lights and, at best, the snow cover. During this time, people drop into the restaurants and cafĂŠs to warm up with hot drinks or enjoy a wonderful candlelit dinner. The range of restaurants in Turku has grown to become a national topic of conversation, and people are travelling to the city purely for the purpose of trying new tastes and experiences. The new restaurants in the city put the spotlight on local food, producers from the archipelago and local area, and the best Nordic raw ingredients. Formed by the ice age, the beautiful Turku Archipelago and the Archipelago Sea, with its more than 40,000 islands and rocky islets, are located off the coast of Turku. You can admire the beauty of the archipelago between Turku and Stockholm from the deck of one of the cruise ships that travel between the cities every day. The unique nature, culture and history of the fascinating Island of Ruissalo is to be found flanking the Turku estuary. The island is easily accessible by bike and bus or by boat. In Ruissalo, you can enjoy nature all year round. In the winter, you can try ice swimming, for example. Turku is a city of events, and offers a vast range of interesting things to experience. Visit the calendar on the www.turku.fi/tapahtumat or www.visitturku.fi to view all the events. Welcome to experience Turku! s Minna Arve mayor of Turku 8

Photos: Timo Jakonen | Layout: Erkki Kiiski

➤ Turku Cathedral Tuomiokirkonkatu 1 ✴ Finland’s only medieval cathedral and national shrine was consecrated in 1300. ✴ Guide booklets are on sale at the Information desk. ✴ You can use your mobile phone or tablet to find out about the Cathedral and its closed tomb chapels. ✴ Open daily, 9 a.m.– 6 p.m.

➤ Christmas Season ✴ Turku has a special atmosphere for Christmas. Before the season of Advent, the City’s Christmas tree is placed in front of the Cathedral. Its lights are lit on Saturday, December 1st, at 4 p.m. at a joyful event for the whole family. ✴ On Wednesday, December 12th, the celebration of the Ecumenical Christmas in Turku begins at 6 p.m. It is an event that is open to all and includes music.

➤ Services in English ✴ There is a Mass every Sunday at 4 p.m., Tarkk’ampuja Chapel. We welcome all Christians to join the Holy Communion. ✴ For other churches and chapels, concerts and other events see our website: www.turunseurakunnat.fi.

➤ Wordsmith brings together history and the latest technology ✴ Take a trip to the 16th century with the help of augmented reality! The Sanan seppä or Wordsmith app makes the history of the Reformation come alive by giving voice to people who lived 500 years ago. Use your own tablet and load it at App Store or borrow a device in the Cathedral. Ask more at the information desk. Come to Turku Cathedral!

Winter in Turku Cathedral

photo: Finnish Ice Hockey Association

Team Finland celebrates after an overtime goal in a thriller against Russia in the World Junior Championship final in 2016. Tournament was hosted by Helsinki.

The long journey to the top

Finland and ice hockey Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Anna Eloaho

The story of Finnish ice hockey is also the story of Finland, rising from

an underdog position to the top of the world. At the same time the story shows how team players gradually took over the strong and silent loners.

Part I: Poverty, hardship and spark of hope

ice rink of Finland was constructed in Tampere in 1956. Many larger cities followed and the man made ice rinks had a crucial role in the In the early half of the 1900’s, Finland was a poor agricultural development of professional Finnish ice hockey. country with an ideal of a male hero who single-handedly turns Finland was still light years apart from the world class. This marsh into fertile fields, a male hero who made the strong and became clear, when Canada – and it should be pointed out that the silent type immortalized by John Wayne in his westerns appear as a opposing team was Canadian amateur team Whitby Dunlops, not blabbermouth. In sports the most iconic representative of this ideal a collection of the NHL-stars – beat our national ice hockey team was naturally the invincible and indefatigable on the 1958 World Championships by 24–0. A Paavo Nurmi, who just kept going. In the land story tells that in the third period one Finnish THERE WAS NOT MUCH TO of individual sports, ice hockey was a minor player made his way over the blue line with the WRITE HOME ABOUT THOSE one, despite the fact that Finland took part puck, thus causing the entire player’s bench GAMES, FINLAND LOST ALL in the World Championships already in 1939. along with the coach to get up and yell “shoot”. THREE MA TCHES, WITH A There was not much to write home about those Everything looked a bit better a year games, Finland lost all three matches, with a later, when Finland played on the World 3-21 GOAL DIFFERENCE. 3–21 goal difference. Championship arena against Sweden and Economic growth and social development succeeded for the first time to play an even took place in Finland during the two decades between the World Wars, match of 4–4 – thus snatching a valuable point from a front-runner but after the WW2 the country was practically flat broke again. However, country. And a year later from that, all hope goes down the drain in a new economic rise was obtained swiftly again and industrialisation historical rock bottom when Finland loses the Squaw Valley Olympic continued strongly throughout 1950’s. The golden age of Track and preliminaries to Germany and ends up in the lower division along Field was no more but a memory, but the foundation for the rise of with Japan and Australia, not so very tactfully re-named as the Pacific ice hockey was already being laid out, as the first artificial outdoor Ocean Division by the Finnish press. 10

photo: Hannu Lindroos / Ice hockey MUSEUM OF FINLAND

photo: Erkki Lahtinen / MUSEUMs OF Tampere

The crowd cheering during Finland vs Czechoslovakia game in the 1965 World Championships in Tampere.

Turku-born players Marko Kiprusoff (left) and Saku Koivu played in the Finnish national team in the 1994 Olympics. They both played also in the NHL, Koivu for 18 seasons altogether.

Part II: The change begins

Part III: The new world

The 1960’s marked the beginning of a great change that can still be seen to progress. The agricultural Finland was urbanizing, new industrial branches emerged, wealth grew and Finland shifted more firmly to be part of the western world. At the same time the first indoor ice rink of Finland rose to Tampere and the World Championships were played there in 1965. Finland was left seventh in the games, but managed to snatch one point form Sweden in an even 2–2 match. More surprises were on the way: in the 1967 World Championships Czechoslovakia was taken down by 3–1 and a year later in the Grenoble Olympics Finland surprised Canada, the terra firma of ice hockey, by winning 5–2. This level was then fixed for the next twenty years: every now and then Finland managed to pick on the grand ice hockey countries, but then again defeats to ice hockey Lilliputians such as East-Germany and Poland ripped the changes to fight for medals. Sometimes the odds were simply against Finland. In the Innsbruck Olympics in 1976 Germany took the bronze medal from Finland with just 0,04 difference in the scoring statistics. However, the signs of change were already in the air.

The beginning of the 1990’s was crucial period for Finland. The Soviet Union collapsed, causing problems for many Finnish companies relying on the export to east. Due to this and several other reasons Finland drifted to historically deep recession. In the mid 90’s a new rise began with Nokia as the guiding star. At the same time Finland became a member of the European Union. A new chapter had begun in ice hockey as well. The Finnish National League that had started in 1976 had developed to be more professional and in 1994 TPS Turku beat unprecedentedly The Moscow Dynamo at the European Cup finals with 4–3. In the national team level Finland had finally won a long sought medal in the Calgary Olympics in 1988. Yet the biggest bombshell was seen in the World Championship finals in Stockholm in spring 1995, where Finland took Sweden down by 4–1. Some reminded – thus honouring the ancient self-condemnation tradition in Finland – that the fact that the NHL players were not attending these games in fact reduced the value of the World Championship just earned. Undisputable evidence on Finland’s position on the top is, however, the fact that between 1998–2014 five Olympics and one World Cup were played with all the best players attending. Finland was the only country that managed to be among the three best, for five times. Despite the fact that the Finnish line up was comprised of goal scoring machines like Teemu Selänne – Swedish ice hockey fans still have nightmares due to his winning goal in the quarter finals at the Nagano Olympics – and other superstars, the reason for success was in the the seamless team spirit that made the Lion team a lot more than the sum of its parts. What does the future of Finland and Finnish ice hockey look like? Excellent, in fact. After some difficult years the Finnish economy has again turned for the better, there are more Finnish top players in NHL now than there ever was and in the past three years Finland has won the Ice Hockey World Junior Championships in the Under-20 tournament once and twice in the Under-18’s. s

THE REASON FOR SUCCESS WAS IN THE

SEAMLESS TEAM SPIRIT THAT MADE THE LION

TEAM A LOT MORE THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS.

In 1978 the Finland men’s under-18 ice hockey team took gold from the USSR in the overtime by 6–5. The winning goal was shot by a certain Jari Kurri, who then became the first Finnish superstar in the legendary line up of Edmonton Oilers along with Wayne Gretzky in the 1980’s. Surely some Canadien journalists who didn’t much appreciate European ice hockey players declared that even a fire hydrant could score over 70 goals per season had it played on Gretzky’s line. Such tattle had long dried out by the time Kurri and Oilers won Stanley Cup after “The Great One” had transferred to Los Angeles. 12

O U R TO P P I C KS IN THE TURKU RESTAURANT DISTRICT CLASSY SCANDINAVIAN OR GENEROUS ITALIAN? COSY EVENING FOR TWO OR DRINKS FOR THE WHOLE CREW?

No evening is ever the same. Try our changing menu, finest wines or delightful drinks.

Refined and classy. Like your taste. Always made from the best local ingredients.

Like a big warm hug from an Italian grandmother. And she never leaves you hungry.

Have a coffee, grab a lunch – or enjoy an evening with live music and marvellous cocktails.

Läntinen Rantakatu 3 eekblom.fi

Läntinen Rantakatu 3 smor.fi

Linnankatu 3 ravintolapanini.fi

Linnankatu 3 tiirikkala.fi

Tue-Thu Fri-Sat

Mon-Thu Fri-Sat

Lunch Mon-Fri 11-14 Mon-Thu 16.30-22 Fri 11-22 Sat 12-22

Tue-Thu Fri-Sat Sun

16-23 16-01

16-23 16-24

11-22 11-02 12-22

SELECTED SERV IC ES AN D PLAC ES I N TU RKU AREA Locations are marked on the map (pages 16–17) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Bars, Pubs, Cafés

Museums, Galleries

Ale Pub Telakka ............................ 12 Bowler ............................................ 15 Café Qwensel (Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House) ...... 221* Café Vimma ......................................... 286 Cup&Pint .............................................. 407 Fazer Café ......................................27 Fika Café ................................607*|26 Gastro-Pub Löytö .................... 551*|2 Hugo ........................................................ 181 Pelimies Bar & Cafe .............. 132*|25 Teerenpeli ......................................22 Tiirikkala ................................ 598*|6 Åbo Bar Brygga ............................. 14

Biological Museum (temporarily closed) .....................................219 Forum Marinum Maritime Centre ............................ 16 Kylämäki – Village of Living History ...............222 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum ...................................220*|1 Old Great Square – several art galleries ......................... 157 Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House ....................... 221*|1 Sibelius-Museum .......................... 10 Turku Castle and Historical Museum ................... 73*|1 Turku Art Museum ....................... 18 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art ........................ 163*|1

and Live Music

Restaurants

Baan Thai Restaurant ........... 541*|25 Brewery Restaurant School (Koulu) ............................... 13 Dennis Ristorante ......................... 23 E. Ekblom ................................636*|6 Fazer Kitchen & Cafe Stockmann ............................28 Göran Restaurant Forum Marinum ............................ 17 Huong Viet Vietnamese Restaurant .............................642*|25 Hus Lindman ........................ 496*|26 KASVIS-ravintola (Vegetarian Restaurant) ....................530 Kerttu ......................................................179 Kuori (Vegetarian Restaurant) ...... 620*|24 Panini .......................................637*|6 Pippurimylly ........................... 181*|2 Rantakerttu ............................ 482*|2 Roots Kitchen (Vegetarian Restaurant) .......621*|24 Smör .........................................638*|6 Teini ......................................... 551*|2 Hotels & Hostels

See numbered blue dots 16–17 and 18.

on pages

Map information marked with red dots is based on the database of Turun Aika Magazine.

and Exhibitions

Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 16–17. Churches

St Catherine´s Church .............. 68*|4 St Mary´s Church .................... 205*|4 St Michael´s Church ................. 76*|4 Turku Cathedral ...................... 69*|4 Other Services

Central Post Office of Turku ........... 270 Humalistonkatu Pharmacy .........20 LOGOMO – Centre for Cultural, Creative and Business Events .........416 Pharmacy Shopping Centre Hansa ................................. 19 Terveystalo Medical Center ......... 21 Turku Concert Hall ...................60*|1 Turku Market Hall ..........................9 Turku Market Square ..............................1 Turku City Library (see page 26) .. 127*|1 Turku University Hospital First Aid and Emergency Services (In case of emergency, call 112) .....................276

For an accurate event calendar of Turku area, see www.turunaika.fi (in Finnish). 14

Children and Families

Adventure Park for Children and Families (Seikkailupuisto) ..... 162*|1 Sports

AuraBiljardi – Billiard Room & Bar .................... 5 Impivaara Sports Centre ................... 631 Kupittaa Sports Center ........... 588*|1 Paavo Nurmi Athletic Track ........... 268 Parkki Ice Skating Rink .................... 290 SuperPark – Indoor Activity Park ....................7 Swimming all year round

Caribian Spa (Holiday Club Caribia) ........................66 Impivaara Public Swimming Pool ...281 Ispoinen Beach ....................................583 Saaronniemi Beach (Ruissalo Island) ..................................582 Transportation

Föri – Non-stop ferry across the river for pedestrians and cyclists ...261 Kupittaa Railway Station ..................265 Local Traffic Service Office – Föli Turku Region Traffic ............. 460 Main Railway Station ......................... 271 Turku Airport .......................................275 Turku Bus Terminal .......................... 266

A MAP IN

YOUR POCKET

Turku Times MapApp: www.turkutimes.fi

More info: www.visitturku.fi

move with joy! SuperPark is the friendliest indoor activity park in the world! Our sports park in Finland is bursting at the seams with an array of family activities for every age and every taste. Adventure Area. Game Arena. Freestyle Hall. Choose your own adventure! SuperPark is home to a smorgasbord of activities, designed to inspire and entertain you. Come see what all the hype is about!

you Are made To move SuperPark Turku | Kongressikuja 1, 20540 Turku | www.SuperPark.fi

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Turku Times is available in these high standard Hotels & Hostels

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07 HOTEL HARRIET

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Eerikinkatu 11, 20100 Turku Tel. +358 2 336 4110 www.sokoshotels.fi

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photo: Vesa Aaltonen / City of Turku

The Library Bridge (Kirjastosilta) in winter evening light.

SIBELIUS exhibition INSTRUMENT exhibition CONCERTS –

spring and autumn season Temporary exhibitions 1.2.2018–6.1.2019

Temporary exhibition 1.2.2019–5.1.2020

Piispankatu 17, Turku | www.sibeliusmuseum.fi

Polttopiste (Focal Point)

tenderness,humor

CHOREOGRAPHY LASSI SAIRELA & EEVA SOINI THE AUTHOR TOMMI KINNUNEN 30.1. World Premiere 2.2. | 6.2. | 8.2. |14.2. |16.2. |20.2. | 22.2. | 7.3. | 9.3. | 14.3. |16.3. |20.3. | 22.3. | 27.3. | 29.3. | 3.4. | 5.4.

PASSIO

the Easter tragedy in powerful pictures CHOREOGRAPHY TIINA LINDFORS MUSIC ARVO PÄRT 18.4. | 19.4. 18.4. | 20.4. | 21.4.

www.eri.fi | www.lippu.fi | Yliopistonkatu 7, Turku

photos: City of Turku

Turku timeline Written by Anna Eloaho

10 000 BCE

1562

1918

The ice age ends relatively late in Finland, around 12,000 years ago.

New inventions, trends and fashions reach Turku swiftly. Among them the habit of using both fork and knife. The first fork in Finland belongs to Catharina Jagiellon, the Polish princess who married Swedish prince John. Along with her fork she is said to have brought the Renaissance era to Turku Castle.

In 1918 the Swedish University of Turku, Åbo Akademi is established. It is the third university of Finland and the first one outside Helsinki.

3200 BCE Findings from the Stone Age show that there are hunters and gatherers in the Turku region already in ca. 3200 BCE, right after the land had risen from under the sea.

700 CE The cultural landscape of Finland Proper starts to develop during Iron Age, when people live by farming and rising cattle. The rivers are an important mean for transportation and trade. The roads start to form.

1229 In his letter to the Bishop of Lindköping, Pope Gregorius IX orders the Bishop’s seat in Nousiainen to be moved to a more appropriate place, ad locum competenciorem.

End of 1220’s The representatives of the Crown, the Catholic Church and the Dominican Order decide to establish a city on the east side of the river Aura to have a more appropriate place for episcobus Aboensis, the first Bishop of Turku.

1300 The Turku Cathedral is inaugurated in June in1300. Also the building of the Turku Castle had started by the end of the 13th century.

1500 By the late Middle Ages, Turku has developed into a bustling town and an important actor in international trade, as it has good connections to motherland Sweden, the Baltic and the major Hanseatic cities as well as Novgorod.

1500 By the end of the Middle Ages there are approximately 1500 inhabitants in Turku. The population of all of Finland at that time is ca. 100,000.

1640

1920 In 1920 the Finnish speaking University of Turku is established with funds collected in a public fund-raising with over 22,000 contributors.

The royal command of Queen Christina of Sweden establishes a university in Turku in 1640. The Royal Academy of Turku is the third university in all Sweden-Finland, the first two being Uppsala (1477) and Tartu (1632).

1939–1944

1732

1965

Industrialism reaches Turku. The first factories manufacture tobacco. The long line of building ships in Turku starts when the Åbo Gamla Skeppswarf is founded in 1732.

Turku decides to end the tram traffic by year 1972. The tracks, covering the central parts of the city are gradually dismantled. The later generations have considered this an ill decision and tram may well return to Turku in the future.

1800 By the beginning of the 19th century there are 10 000 people living in Turku, the population of Finland being ca. 1 million.

1812 Turku enjoys her position as the number one city of the country until 1812, when Helsinki is made the new capital and the administrative center of the Grand Duchy of Finland, at that time part of Russia.

Turku suffers great damages in the World War II. Even the Turku Castle is bombed.

1970’s A more visible trend of decision-making in the 1960’s and 1970’s is to demolish old buildings and replace them with modern blockhouses. The demolishing epidemic is known as the Turku disease. The current tendency is to preserve buildings form 19th century and the beginning of 20th.

2011

1827 A major blow to the academic position of Turku is given by the Grand Duke, the Russian Emperor Alexander I, who transfers the Academy to the new capital after the Great Fire of Turku in 1827.

1880 Turku is the first city in Finland to have a horse-drawn tramline.

1917 Finland declares its independent on December the 6th in 1917. 20

Turku, along with Tallinn in Estonia is the European Cultural Capital in 2011.

2019 In 2019 Turku is the sixth largest city of Finland with its 191,000 inhabitants. The Turku sub-region is the third largest urban area in Finland. There are two universities and four universities of applied sciences in Turku, with the total number of nearly 40,000 degree and post-graduate students and teachers. s

Brewery restaurant School (Koulu) is one of Finland´s largest restaurant breweries.

BEST BEER AND FOOD IN TOWN

On the first floor is the Wine room, with dining possibility, a History classroom, the Brewery Pub as well as the brewery itself. During weekdays we serve tasty home-made lunch from the buffet. In the Brewery Pub craft brewed beers and ciders from our own brewery and a diverse selection of quality whiskies are served. On the Wine room´s wine list is about 80 quality wines, several of them are also served by glass. YLIOPISTONKATU - WALKING STREET

Hansa shopping center

AURAKATU

KRISTIINANKATU

in Brewery-restaurant Koulu

Market square

EERIKINKATU Breweryrestaurant Koulu

www. panimoravintolakoulu.fi

Eerikinkatu 18, Puh. (02) 274 5757 14

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Yliopistonkatu 29 Turku • www.bowler.fi

photo: Vesa Aaltonen

Four Elements

Text: Elli Liippo Translation: Tomi Snellman

our Elements is a broad exhibition of Finnish visual art, covering paintings, photographs, sculptures and videos from the 19th century to the 2010s. Curated from works in the Turku Art Museum collection, the exhibition has been named Four Elements in reference to the ancient Greek theory of the structure of the world. Empedocles, who lived in the 5th century BCE, was the first of the ancient philosophers to divide nature (physis) into four elements: earth, water, air and fire. Through Aristotleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s writings, the theory survived in European scientific thinking up to the beginning of the modern age. 22

Pekka Halonen (1865â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1933) Autumn 1901 Oil on canvas

H ere the S ea B egins!

Exhibitions

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Linnankatu 72, 20100 Turku - 02 267 9511 - www.forum-marinum.fi 18

HAARTMAN MUNSTERHJELM SALOKIVI

HANNALEENA HEISKA

14 Sep 2018 – 20 Jan 2019

8 Feb – 19 May 2019

COLLECTION :

FOUR ELEMENTS TURKU ART MUSEUM AUR AK ATU 26 TUE– FRI 11–19 SAT–SUN 11–17 W W W.TURUNTAIDEMUSEO.FI

photo: Vesa Aaltonen

The theory of the four elements has today been replaced by the atomic theory in science, yet earth, water, air and fire remain key concepts in everyday conceptions of the world. The polar opposites that attach to their qualities – hot and cold, dry and humid – correspond to our immediate, bodily experience of the world. Four Elements presents an opportunity to see how artists over the centuries have conceived of the relationship between humankind and the elements, or physical reality in general. The elements are a current that leads viewers from one gallery to the next, sometimes softly, sometimes with greater force. Earth, water, air and fire can be found in the works on show both thematically and in terms of their materials. “FOREST VEGETATION BECOMES A CLOSE FRIEND, YOU ALMOST BEGIN TO SEE PERSONALITIES

AMONG THE TREES AND YOU SPEAK DIFFERENTLY TO DIFFERENT CHARACTERS: ONE THING TO A SUPPLE BIRCH, ANOTHER TO THE LOFTY PINE, ONE THING TO A STATELY GREY SNAG AND ANOTHER TO THE DARK, SOMBRE SPRUCE.” -AKSELI GALLEN-KALLELA

Living Earth The theory of four elements is a universal idea that has a parallel in Chinese philosophy, in which the original five basic elements eventually became distilled into two: the earth, which stands for feminine energy, or yin, and its masculine opposite, yang, the sky. Similarly, in Greek mythology, the goddess of the earth, Gaia, is the feminine source of life. In myths, the earth is often seen as a living, human-like organism whose breath connects her to the atmosphere, whose blood flows in brooks and rivers and who expresses her moods through volcanic activity, eruptions and earthquakes. Miikka Vaskola’s painting Untitled (2015) brings lifeless matter to life. In the large work, substances are constantly changing – pigment becomes alive in the form of a landscape, turbulent clouds and the light of the Sun, until it mutates back into material on the canvas. Some of the pigment is absorbed into the raw, unprimed linen, reinforcing the impression of an image in process, moving between the figurative and the non-figurative. Animism – seeing life in inanimate things – is a typical feature of mythic thinking about nature. Akseli Gallen-Kallela suspected that a profound identification with nature and the tendency toward animism runs particularly strong in Finns. “Forest vegetation becomes a close friend, you almost begin to see personalities among the trees and you speak differently to different characters: one thing to a supple birch, another to the lofty pine, one thing to a stately grey snag and another to the dark, sombre spruce.” One is tempted to think that Gallen-Kallela had his friend and colleague Pekka Halonen’s painting Autumn (1901) in mind when he wrote those words. Not unlike Japanese art, the picture opens for us a narrow view into a Finnish forest, with its moss-covered ground and the lower branches of trees. The kind of wilderness depicted by Halonen is today increasingly rare in Finland, as forestlands are being depleted by commercial interests. With commercial forests almost devoid of deadwood are a new phenomenon in the evolutionary history of the planet.

Maiju Salmenkivi (b. 1972) Refuge 2008-2009. Acrylic, alkyd and oil on canvas

In his series UUPUU (2016), Esko Männikkö, a Finnish photo grapher famous for his portraits, depicts silvery grey tree roots shimmering against a black forest background. Reminiscent of memento mori still lifes, this photograph is a consoling reminder of the cycle of life and of decomposition as a new beginning. In a pristine forest, time is cyclical and the line between life and death cannot always be drawn clearly. A snag – a dead tree that is still standing – is in truth full of life, with insects and micro-organisms carrying on their ceaseless work inside the trunk, invisible to sight. Eventually, the tree becomes part of the forest floor, where the bugs continue feasting on it. In light of current knowledge, soil too is a living thing, although not in an animistic sense.

photo: Vesa Aaltonen

Balancing

FOUR ELEMENTS PRESENTS AN

OPPORTUNITY TO SEE HOW

ARTISTS OVER THE

The ancient theory of elements does not distinguish between spirit and matter. The elements are feeling and animate forces, polar opposites that seek to gain dominance over one another. This struggle is what gives rise to the changes we see in nature, to growth and decay. Working in the spirit of romanticism, 19th century artists wanted to reimbue nature with spiritual, even religious meaning, and eventually a small human figure in a lofty natural landscape became a standard subject in landscape painting. The opposition between humanity and the forces of nature is also the theme in Ismo Kajander’s assemblage Titanic (2001), although, more fatally, the miniature human figures are sailing on a raft crashed on a marble iceberg. It is clear that the travellers will not survive the ordeal unscathed. From an ecological perspective, classical elements such as water and air have lost none of their importance. Climate warming is altering the cycles of water on the planet, giving rise to severe droughts on the one hand and as rains and floods on the other. Maiju Salmenkivi takes the uncertain balance between humanity and nature as the theme for her painting Refuge (2008–2009), in which a family of four has sought shelter in a hothouse as a group of tigers feeds on the other side of the glass wall. It remains for the viewer to decide how much security is offered by a glass house, and which one is more in need of protection – humans or nature. s

CENTURIES HAVE CONCEIVED OF

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN

TURKU ART MUSEUM Aurakatu 26

HUMANKIND AND

www.turkuartmuseum.fi

THE ELEMENTS, OR

Tue–Fri 11–19, Sat–Sun 11–17

IN GENERAL.

FOUR ELEMENTS

PHYSICAL REALITY

Admission 9 / 6 € 23 Nov 2018– AXEL HAARTMAN – ALI MUNSTERHJELM – SANTERI SALOKIVI 14 Sep 2018 – 20 Jan 2019 HANNALEENA HEISKA 8 Feb – 19 May 2019 Museum also hosts temporary exhibitions such as Studio and Darkroom series dedicated to cowntemporary art. The museum shop and Café Victor are open during the opening hours.

Miikka Vaskola (b. 1975) Untitled 2015 Ink, charcoal, chalk, acrylic and iron oxide on canvas

SEE GREEN NUMBER 18 ON MAP (PAGE 16).

Photo: Kari Vainio / City of Turku

There’s no need to

whisper in today’s library

Turku main library.

Written by Pauliina Eriksson

inland is a land of libraries. Every city or municipality serviced, use a sewing machine or take you children to the play area has at least one library open to anyone who wants to in the children’s section. Events are held on the stage while groups borrow a book, read magazines or work. Libraries hold from daycare centres visit the library to borrow books or play games events, teach new skills and make new books available in the gaming corner. to everyone fast and free of charge. How did we achieve Timo Ylönen, who works as library pedagogue for the Espoo this? How did Finland’s library institution develop into one of the City Library, says that libraries the world over are facing a window best in the world and what is its future? of opportunity. While book lending and traditional information The library’s history in Finland begins in 1794, when the City services hardly seem adequate any more, libraries have embraced of Vaasa established the country’s first lending library open to all the opportunity to develop their services in an increasingly active people. In the mid-1800s, university students and the educated direction, trying new forms of services open-mindedly and without classes took it upon themselves to increase prejudice. “At their best, libraries are meeting HOW DID FINLAND’S LIBRARY the general knowledge of the population places for active people and learners, offering at large. For this purpose, libraries offering events as well as premises and equipment for INSTITUTION DEVELOP INTO Finnish materials suitable for advancing this a variety of activities,” says Ylönen. ONE OF THE BEST IN THE goal were established across the country. In In addition to diverse events and services, WORLD AND WHAT IS ITS the early 20th century, these people’s libraries the Espoo City Library has decided to FUTURE? evolved into public libraries catering to a invest particularly in the development and broad range of interests. maintenance of children’s literacy skills. The modern library, however, is a lot more than a mere place According to Timo Ylönen, the starting point for this work is the from which to borrow books. According to the new Public Libraries operating principle of overall library work in Espoo: “Every child Act, which entered into force last year, libraries must ensure the need curiosity, imagination and multiliteracy. Libraries increase our population’s equal opportunities to access education and culture, ability to tell our own and understand others’ stories.” Ylönen further versatile literacy skills, opportunities for lifelong learning and interprets this as a need for knowledge and stories which result in competence development. The ways to achieve this include an a whole person who understands society. He also emphasises the expansion of the range of services. Big libraries do indeed offer a significance of comprehensive reading skills in terms of the retention whole range of services under one roof. of democratic societies, freedom of expression and human rights. The inauguration of Helsinki’s new main library, Oodi, will be The future of public libraries seems bright. Books and lending held at the beginning of December, while the most recent innovation services provide a good foundation upon which to build. Change is of Metso, the main library in Tampere, is its own product range. The nevertheless unavoidable because, as Ylönen sums it up, “you can’t items on sale include paper products, jewellery and accessories. In stay put – you have to move forward”. In the best case, the result is Turku, the main library block combines old and new architecture, an increasingly service-minded and versatile public library for all. s as if in reference to the library’s balancing act between traditional collections and new services. THE MAIN LIBRARY OF TURKU Today’s library is a living room open to everyone. A good example Linnankatu 2 | Tel. +358 2 262 0624 of this is the public library of Sello, located in Espoo, which has www.turku.fi/en/turku-city-library profiled itself as an event library. You can go there to have your bike 26

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COLUMN

Written by Siri Kolu Translated by Anna Eloaho

Why I love to stray

Cities have their own logic, rather like their own language. There are residential streets and industrial areas. There are design districts and infinities of apartment buildings and people’s squares where fruit is sold in booths or spread out on the ground on piece of plastic or gunny sack. There are areas of families with kids, dog parks for tiny urban dogs, paradises for joggers. My favourite thing is to learn how the inhabitants utilise their own city. I observe places where people meet. Places that gather the thirsty or the dance devotees. I view the boxing halls and the dance studios. Especially important places for a writer are the places where the secret encounters take place or where the grown up children take their grandmothers for coffee. In these places I order a cup of coffee, open my notebook and start to write. I feel that I’m part of everything around me when I don’t even know where I am. In the olden times the yet undiscovered areas in maps were marked here be

dragons. The experiences during the time spent lost often feel like that –as if they were not drawn on a map at all. When you don’t know where you are, you are given everything, since you don’t expect anything at all. I have found parks that were not marked on maps, I have wandered on a cosy residential area that was described nightmarish by the hotel guide, I have found secret cafes and pop-up shops of Italian catwalk fashion from the most ghastly basements. I have attended auctions, rummage sales and flea markets. I have been invited to weddings, bakery openings and all night long block parties. I also love the moment of returning back on the map. The very instant I recognize where I am. When I find my way back to a familiar metro line. The moment I open Google Maps. It’s almost sad to be back on the map again, having returned to familiar surroundings. As I return from a hidden cafe to my hotel I see the hotel, too, with fresh eyes. I see my face in the elevator: I glow, faintly, just like people returning from a secret rendez-vous do. Each time I receive an invitation for a work trip, certain tingle rises to my spine. I open the programme and look for a time slot for my disappearance. I start waiting for the moment when I can get lost. I hop on the closest available public transportation and change for the next one whenever I feel like doing so. I move swiftly, as if trying to shake off the dutiful me. Getting lost turns into a game, I travel only in busses with even number or numbers of my phone number. I throw dice and get off on six. I do as the Situationists did in their time: I become an explorer when I free myself from knowing everything. I have fallen in love with a city that tempts me to stay lost for one more hour, until the next block. It’s not long till my next work trip. I’m going to pack comfortable sneakers along. It’s time to disappear again for a while. s

Siri Kolu is an author, dramaturge and theatre instructor. Her works include children’s books and other fiction. Her awarded (among others Finlandia Junior Prize) Me Rosvolat book (Me and the Robbersons) was adapted into film in 2015. The latest book in the Me and Robbersons series, Tarinataistelu (the Battle of Stories) was published in September 2018. Kolu lives in Vantaa, where she also works as the principal of Vantaa School of Literary Art.

Photo: Mirva Kakko

ne of the important pleasures in life for me is going astray in strange cities. On every work trip I schedule an extra afternoon for getting lost. On every holiday trip there has to be one day with no program, reserved just for wandering. One needs to be systematic and planned in order to go astray. Getting lost calls for proper shoes. A bottle of water and enough clothes are required. It also pays off to have a few coins in the local currency as well as a charged phone. Possibly a dice, a notebook and a pen. Un umbrella. The most important thing is to set everything at zero. Getting lost is all about daring to be dazzled for a moment, not working one’s way back on the map or near a familiar landmark right away. When lost, one must dare to walk and have one’s eyes open. Voluntary lostness without haste feels like falling in love. It offers a possibility to get to know an unknown city with its most immense aspects wide open for you. When I’m lost, I see in a different way, I read the streets and the landscape as if they were signs. I read crowds. I read the street signs. I listen to the buskers and the foreign language around me. Is there a bus line? What sort of a market square is this? Where did all these people get their delicious pastries?

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