Turku Times 2/19 by Mobile-Kustannus Oy

2/2019

A MAGAZI NE FOR VISITORS

IN THIS ISSUE The unbearable lightness of skiing Page 10

Highlights of Finnish film history:

Summer night’s passion, a vampire witch on the snowfields Page 20

WAM – from artist museum to a meeting place for contemporary art Page 24

A column by Heikki Kännö

please leave this magazine for the next guest – thank you!

The magic circles of hotels Page 28

WELCOME TO TURKU! Urban legends since 1229 MUSIC TURKU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA AND TURKU CONCERT HALL Aninkaistenkatu 9

KUPITTAA SPORTS CENTER

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES LIBRARY TURKU CITY LIBRARY Linnankatu 2 Open every day, Turku City Library is set in the impressive architecture of two buildings combined as a whole. The library features several areas for events and exhibitions as well as plenty of places to read. The visitor can delve into the extensive collection of books and journals in either paper or electronic format. A wireless network is available in all areas for the use of laptops, but visitors also have access to multiple computers. Library services are free of charge.

tfo.fi/en

in Kupittaa area, only 2 km from the city centre ADVENTURE PARK (Seikkailupuisto) is a cultural centre for children and families, located on the edges of the Kupittaanpuisto-park area. Adventure Park is open all year round and best suitable for children aged 0 to 12. During the summer the park’s attractions include a shower sponge, a wading pool, a brook that twists around the park and a traffic town. During the winter season, there’s plenty to do in the park’s indoor facilities, including club and theatre activities, music play schools and open art workshops. turku.fi/en/adventure-park-seikkailupuisto

is an excellent place to spend an active day with family, or a perfect place for the active enthusiast or spectator sportsman, in any season. The area contains for example football fields, Finnish baseball fields and outdoor swimming pool in summertime. Kupittaa offers lots of possibilities to exercise also from autumn to spring. Visitors may use free of charge roller coaster or artificial ice skating rink in winter, outdoor gym, many courts and BMX track. turku.fi/en/sports

Turku Philharmonic Orchestra offers a wide range of concerts from September to May both in Turku Concert Hall and in the many historical venues of Turku and the beautiful archipelago. The weekly symphony concerts feature guest artists from Finland and abroad.

turku.fi/en/culture-and-sports

MUSEUMS Linnankatu 80 Tue–Sun 10 am–18 pm The majestic Turku Castle has guarded the mouth of the river Aura since the end of 13th century. Concealed inside the tall, grey stone walls are the secrets and dramatic twists of Finnish, Swedish and Nordic history. The atmospheric rooms of the medieval castle, the renaissance splendour and the wonderful architecture, will astonish all who visit. During its history the castle has been defended and besieged, frequently changing hands between medieval leaders. During the time of Duke John court life at the castle was transformed, with the introduction of the latest clothing fashions and the enjoyment of sumptuous dining. In later periods the castle would also be used as a barracks, a warehouse and a prison.

PHARMACY MUSEUM AND THE QWENSEL HOUSE Läntinen Rantakatu 13 Tue–Sun 10 am–18 pm The museum features a bourgeois home from the 18th century and a pharmacy from the 19th century under one roof. The Qwensel House is the oldest remaining wooden building in Turku. The interior is decorated in the rococo and Gustavian styles of the late 18th century. In the Pharmacy Museum the oldest items on display are over 200 years old, and the pharmacy’s shopping area houses the oldest remaining pharmacy interior in Finland. The idyllic 18th century courtyard in the middle of the city is a relaxing spot in the midst of all the hustle and bustle. Cafe

Qwensel offers old-style delicacies made on the premises.

LUOSTARINMÄKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM Vartiovuorenkatu 2 Museum is open Christmas Time 30 Nov 2019–6 Jan 2020 Tue–Sun 10 am–18 pm Summertime from 2 May Tue–Sun 9 am–5 pm In 1827 the Great Fire of Turku caused massive destruction, but Luostarinmäki was spared from the flames. Nowadays the old quarter and artisans of Luostarinmäki form a unique atmosphere, where time stands still. At the museum, journey in time to life of the common folk from the 1800’s. The museum presents the professions of the preindustrial era, with many different handicraft workshops located in the houses.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART Itäinen Rantakatu 38 2019 Tue–Sun 10 am–18 pm 2020 Tue, Fri–Sun 10 am–17 pm Wed–Thu 11 am–20 pm The Wäinö Aaltonen museum is dedicated to the late, Turku born sculptor and operates as the city art museum by the riverbank. Offerings include changing exhibitions, new and experimental art projects as well as various cultural events. Exhibitions • When is now? Until 19 Jan • Rebecca Birch 22 Nov – 9 Feb • Anneli Nygren - Fan Academy 7 Feb–24 May • Hyäryllistä 7 Feb–24 May turku.fi/en/museum We reserve the rigt to make changes.

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Delicious flavours and a good atmosphere for every occassion. Pippurimylly is a nostalgic family restaurant. We have been offering tasty steaks and pizzas since 1974.

Stålarminkatu 2, 20810 Turku / +358 2 277 3350 / www.pippurimylly.fi mon-fri 11-23 / sat 12-23 / sun 12-21

Restaurant Teini is a landmark in the local culinary history. Teini has been serving classic dishes in the historical Juselius Mansion since 1924. Let the nostalgic atmosphere enchant you.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330203 / www.ravintolateini.fi mon-fri 11-23 / sat 12-23 / sun 12-21

A cozy atmosphere, wide variety of beers, good wines and burgers. Everything is served in a fancy old factory setting next to the Aura river.

Läntinen Rantakatu 55, 20100 Turku / +358 2 2588000 / www.rantakerttu.fi mon-fri 11-22 / sat 12-22 / sun 12-19

Gastropub Löytö – laid-back place to enjoy a great burger and a pint or two – always in good company. Pop in! With us you won't feel lost.

Uudenmaankatu 1, 20500 Turku / +358 2 2330205 / www.gastropubloyto.fi tue-thu 16-24 / fri 11-02 / sat 16-02 / sun closed

RAVANTIT STÅLARMINKATU 2, 20810 TURKU / PUH. +358 2 277 3350

CONTENTS Welcome to Turku 8 The unbearable lightness of skiing 10 Turku timeline 12 Selected services & places 14 Maps of Turku & Ruissalo Island 16 Hotels & hostels providing Turku Times 18 Summer night’s passion, a vampire witch on the snowfields – Highlights of Finnish film history 20 WAM – from artist museum to a meeting place for contemporary art 24 The magic circles of hotels – A column by Heikki Kännö 28

Turku Times – A Magazine for Visitors Issue 2/2019 "Autumn-Winter-Spring" www.turkutimes.fi ISSN 2342-2823 (print) ISSN 2669-8285 (online) Published by Mobile-Kustannus Oy Brahenkatu 14 D 94 FI-20100 Turku, Finland

Editor Anna Eloaho Publisher Teemu Jaakonkoski Sales Manager Raimo Kurki raimo.kurki@mobilekustannus.fi Tel. +358 45 656 7216

Graphic Design & Layout Petteri Mero Mainostoimisto Knok Oy Printed by Newprint Oy

Cover photos River Aura. Photo: Jarmo Piironen / Visit Turku The Old Great Square Christmas Market. Photo: City of Turku Ice walking. Photo: Visit Turku Turku Cathedral. Photo: Esko Keski-Oja / Visit Turku Heikki Kännö. Photo: Helena Kulmala

Turku Times map application for mobile telephones and tablets: www.turkutimes.fi. Turku Times is available in hotel and hostel rooms in the city of Turku (see page 18). Next Turku Times issue is out in April 2020. 6

Our mall has it all – every day! Get your bag full of souvenirs at the most comfortable shopping center in Turku. Over 90 shops and services open every day in Skanssi!

SHOPPING CENTER SKANSSI SKANSSINKATU 10, TURKU | SHOPS ARE OPEN AT LEAST MON–FRI 10–21 | SAT 10–19 | SUN 11–18 * SERVICE POINTS AND ALKO HAVE INDIVIDUAL OPENING HOURS | MORE INFORMATION: SKANSSI.FI

BUSES 9, 90 AND 221 TIMETABLES FOLI.FI

photo: Mikko Kaaresmaa

Welcome to Turku

Turku wants to offer its best not only to its

development in the Baltic Sea region. The long-term cooperation for its part has raised the Turku region into the engine of economic growth in Finland. The spearhead fields in Turku are marine technology, bio and circular economy, health and well-being, manufacturing and technology industries as well as creative fields.

citizens but also to tourists, whether it is a

question of a holiday, a business, a training or a congress.

City by the River and Close to the Sea

Turku is the oldest city in Finland. We are taking advantage of our history though we are looking to the future. In 2029, we will celebrate the 800th anniversary of the City of Turku, and the city is already preparing for the jubilee year in numerous ways, of which I am here presenting two: The most visible project at the moment is the large-scale renovation of the market square in the city centre. In a couple of years, we will have an attractive car-free market square with its splendid pedestrian, cycling and recreational facilities in our city centre. The target of Turku is to be a carbon neutral city in its jubilee year and after that a climate positive city. We will reach the target in cooperation with the citizens and the communities of the city. Due to this objective, I am also inviting you to participate in our joint effort to combat climate change by favouring delicious and clean local food, for example.

The River Aura is the heart of Turku. You get to know Turku easier by walking or cycling along the riverside. The route from the Turku Cathedral to the Turku Castle is steeped in history and life. By the riverside, there is a beautiful scenery, interesting museums and the magnificent Turku Main Library as well as cosy and high-quality cafĂŠs and restaurants where to have a break. Shops and department stores are close to one another in the city centre. As souvenirs, I recommend design of Turku origin, such as high-quality textiles which are light to carry home. It is also worth visiting the traditional market hall where you can taste local delicacies and specialties. For culture lovers, Turku offers lots of interesting events like concerts, pieces of theatre, fairs, art exhibitions and festivals. The sea and the nature are an inseparable part of Turku. On Ruissalo island in front of the city, the mind rests in all seasons of the year. The island is famous for its 19th-century villas, oak forests, beach, nature trails and the Ruisrock Festival.

Turku is a small large city There are around 190,000 residents in Turku, and there are about 300,000 residents in the Turku region. There are even six universities, and around 40,000 students and university teachers in Turku. This guarantees that we have wide-ranging know-how here. Our universities are international, and the only Swedish-speaking university in Finland, Ă&#x2026;bo Akademi, is the gem of the city. The cooperation between the universities, the city and the businesses aims to make Turku and the Turku region grow in the lead of the

I am a native of Turku and the city means everything to me. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why I wish that Turku would make a long-lasting impression on every visitor and would make the visitor want to come back again and again. s Minna Arve mayor of Turku 8

Photos: Timo Jakonen | Layout: Erkki Kiiski

➤ Turku Cathedral Tuomiokirkonkatu 1

✴ Finland’s only medieval cathedral and national shrine was consecrated in 1300. ✴ Guide booklets are on sale at the Information desk. ✴ You can use your mobile phone or tablet to find out about the Cathedral and its closed tomb chapels. ✴ Open daily, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. ➤ Christmas Season

✴ Turku has a special atmosphere for

Christmas. Before the Season of Advent, the City’s Christmas tree is placed in front of the Cathedral. Its lights are lit on Saturday, November 30th, at 4 p.m. at a joyful event for the whole family. ✴ On Wednesday, December 11th, the celebration of the Ecumenical Christmas in Turku begins at 6 p.m. It is an event that is open to all and includes music.

Winter in Turku Cathedral ➤ Services in English

✴ There is service every Sunday at the Turku Cathedral (Tuomiokirkonkatu 1) at 4 pm. Usually we celebrate in English and follow practices of the Church of England. Once in a month we have a Mass of Trust, a mass with Taizé-songs. This service is in both Finnish and English. ➤ For other churches and chapels, concerts and other events see our website: www.turunseurakunnat.fi.

photo: Terje Pedersen / Lehtikuva

Finland's Iivo Niskanen (8) won his first individual Winter Olympic gold medal in men's 50 km cross country skiing in PyeongChang 2018. Other medals went to Russia, as Alexander Bolshunov (7) took silver and Andrey Larkov (11) bronze – both competing as members of OAR Team. Hans Christer Holund (3) of Norway finished 6th.

The unbearable lightness of skiing

Written by Matti Mäkelä Translated by Tiina Erkintalo

uch pleasure it is for a skier to ski, when snow beneath glistens and the sky above curves bright…", depicts Eino Leino, the Finnish national poet, the joys of skiing. After this, Leino makes a U-turn and declares that skiing is even more fun when "the wind howls, the trail is blocked and a blizzard storms in the sky…" More fun? Leino seems to describe the inhumane circumstances that led to the tragic death of Captain Scott’s expedition in the Antarctic, and he seems to be shaking with laughter. No wonder Leino is Finland’s national poet. To praise self-torture in such wretched conditions is only natural in a country that has fully internalized John F. Kennedy’s famous motto: we choose to do things not because it is easy, but because it is hard. This is why Lauri ‘Tahko’ Pihkala, the Grand Old Man of Finnish sports, considered cross-country skiing to be ultimately superior to alpine skiing. In his view, a sport where "the lift takes you up and the gravity brings you down" was not really a sport at all. As a result of this attitude, it is the men’s 50 km ski-race that has traditionally been considered the most valued one among skiing championships. For example, the most successful Finnish skier in recent years, Iivo Niskanen, became a true superstar only after winning Olympic gold medal on this particular competition in 2018 – although he had previously already won World Championship in 15 km race as well as the Olympic gold in team sprint race. 10

‘A SPORT WHERE

THE LIFT TAKES YOU UP AND THE GRAVITY

BRINGS YOU DOWN IS NOT REALLY

A SPORT AT ALL.’

Then, of course, there are those who think that true skiing only not held again until in 2016. Since then, it has been organized every begins when considerably many more kilometers are involved. For year as its popularity grows. But even Andreas Nygaard, who won those the Nordenskiöldsloppet in mid-April in Sweden offers a real the competition in 2017, doubted its meaningfulness. "It is completely challenge with its extreme 220 kilometers, just over five marathons. absurd to ski for so long. This is the craziest race I’ve ever skied", he The name of the event refers to the famous Finnish arctic explorer said after reaching the finish line in 11.48.07. The contestant, who Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld, who organized the first race in 1884. enjoyed the longest time on the ski track, pushed himself to the According to tradition, the pace of the first competition was kept up finish line after more than 28 hours of skiing. by serving the participants coffee and cognac, which was not that The most popular mass skiing events in the Nordic countries, exceptional in endurance sports at that time. however, are much more moderate in length. IN TIGHT SITUATIONS For example, the winners of the first Olympic Sweden’s Vasaloppet is the world’s largest single marathons are known to have cheered themselves cross-country skiing race and clearly the most THE PATROLS up with red wine, cognac and even strychnine. popular. Organized since 1922, the aim of the WERE GIVEN A unique chapter in the unholy union of event is to ski 90 kilometers from Sälen to Mora. A STIMULANT DRUG skiing and stimulants, along with various doping According to the story behind the event, the future DEVELOPED BY scandals, is the winter guerilla activity of the king of Sweden Gustav Vasa tried to escape from THE GERMANS Finnish remote patrol troops behind the Soviet Sweden to Lübeck, Germany, in the early 1520s. lines during the second World War. The patrols However, the peasants who opposed the current sent to the enemy’s back could, in a matter of few days, ski more reign of King Christian II of Denmark, sent their three best skiers than 150 kilometers while carrying weapons, explosives and other after the young nobleman to persuade him to return and lead an equipment. Although the men in these special forces were in a really uprising against the king. Gustav agreed, plunged the usurper from tough condition, fatigue was imminent because of the extreme the throne and became king himself. Like so many nationally inspiring physical and mental stress. To support the patrols in tight situations stories, this too must be a complete fiction, except for the end result. they were given a stimulant drug developed by the Germans, pervitin, The Finnish counterpart to Vasaloppet, Finlandia Ski Marathon, has which, in practice, was a metamfetamine-based drug. a much shorter history. It was first organized in 1974 and covered 75 Jouko Korhonen, who served as lieutenant during the war, said kilometers. In 1982, the number of skiers exceeded the magic amount in an interview in tabloid Ilta-Sanomat that he had given one of his of 10,000 participants (for the sake of the anecdote, among them was exhausted men three tablets to prevent him lagging behind from the Prince Tomohito of Japan). In 1984 Finlandia Ski Marathon reached rest of the patrol, while they were fleeing from the enemy. As soon a record of 13,000 participants, which made it in the Guinness Book as the weary man got the stimulants, he skied, in a deep unbroken of Records as the world’s largest mass ski event. snow, to the top of the bunch: "I told him to stay behind, but he So, what does the future look like for mass skiing events or would not obey me." ultra-long skiing distances? Indeed, the competition becomes more At times the use of the substance got out of control. Another patrol’s challenging each year: people are attracted to new sports, the climate scouting trip had to be cancelled, because the men had apparently got change is reducing skiing opportunities especially in the southern a bit too excited about the recreational use of pervitin. They began Finland, and so many other things compete for people’s free time. to hallucinate (stone houses in the middle of the wilderness, among On the other hand, perseverance, overcoming oneself and facing other things) and the team deputy commander started taking orders almost impossible challenges are eternal megatrends. This is why from a non-existent colonel. there will always be people who hear the calling of Eino Leino’s Let us return to Nordenskiöldsloppet. Despite the cognac and deep unbroken snow and blowing of the wind in a glooming and coffee, the race was obviously too hard an ordeal after all, as it was stormy night forest. s

photo: SA-Kuva

A ski patrol in Säkkijärvi, South Karelia during the Winter War, January 1940.

photos: City of Turku

Turku timeline Written by Anna Eloaho

10 000 BCE

1562

1918

The ice age ends relatively late in Finland, around 12,000 years ago.

New inventions, trends and fashions reach Turku swiftly. Among them the habit of using both fork and knife. The first fork in Finland belongs to Catharina Jagiellon, the Polish princess who married Swedish prince John. Along with her fork she is said to have brought the Renaissance era to Turku Castle.

In 1918 the Swedish University of Turku, Åbo Akademi is established. It is the third university of Finland and the first one outside Helsinki.

3200 BCE Findings from the Stone Age show that there are hunters and gatherers in the Turku region already in ca. 3200 BCE, right after the land had risen from under the sea.

700 CE The cultural landscape of Finland Proper starts to develop during Iron Age, when people live by farming and rising cattle. The rivers are an important mean for transportation and trade. The roads start to form.

1229 In his letter to the Bishop of Lindköping, Pope Gregorius IX orders the Bishop’s seat in Nousiainen to be moved to a more appropriate place, ad locum competenciorem.

End of 1220’s The representatives of the Crown, the Catholic Church and the Dominican Order decide to establish a city on the east side of the river Aura to have a more appropriate place for episcobus Aboensis, the first Bishop of Turku.

1300 The Turku Cathedral is inaugurated in June in1300. Also the building of the Turku Castle had started by the end of the 13th century.

1500 By the late Middle Ages, Turku has developed into a bustling town and an important actor in international trade, as it has good connections to motherland Sweden, the Baltic and the major Hanseatic cities as well as Novgorod.

1500 By the end of the Middle Ages there are approximately 1500 inhabitants in Turku. The population of all of Finland at that time is ca. 100,000.

1640

1920 In 1920 the Finnish speaking University of Turku is established with funds collected in a public fund-raising with over 22,000 contributors.

The royal command of Queen Christina of Sweden establishes a university in Turku in 1640. The Royal Academy of Turku is the third university in all Sweden-Finland, the first two being Uppsala (1477) and Tartu (1632).

1939–1944

1732

1965

Industrialism reaches Turku. The first factories manufacture tobacco. The long line of building ships in Turku starts when the Åbo Gamla Skeppswarf is founded in 1732.

Turku decides to end the tram traffic by year 1972. The tracks, covering the central parts of the city are gradually dismantled. The later generations have considered this an ill decision and tram may well return to Turku in the future.

1800 By the beginning of the 19th century there are 10 000 people living in Turku, the population of Finland being ca. 1 million.

1812 Turku enjoys her position as the number one city of the country until 1812, when Helsinki is made the new capital and the administrative center of the Grand Duchy of Finland, at that time part of Russia.

Turku suffers great damages in the World War II. Even the Turku Castle is bombed.

1970’s A more visible trend of decision-making in the 1960’s and 1970’s is to demolish old buildings and replace them with modern blockhouses. The demolishing epidemic is known as the Turku disease. The current tendency is to preserve buildings from 19th century and the beginning of 20th.

2011

1827 A major blow to the academic position of Turku is given by the Grand Duke, the Russian Emperor Alexander I, who transfers the Academy to the new capital after the Great Fire of Turku in 1827.

1880 Turku is the first city in Finland to have a horse-drawn tramline.

1917 Finland declares its independent on December the 6th in 1917. 12

Turku, along with Tallinn in Estonia is the European Cultural Capital in 2011.

2019 In 2019 Turku is the sixth largest city of Finland with its 192,000 inhabitants. The Turku sub-region is the third largest urban area in Finland. There are two universities and four universities of applied sciences in Turku, with the total number of nearly 40,000 degree and post-graduate students and teachers. s

SELECTED SERV IC ES AN D PLAC ES I N TU RKU AREA Locations are marked on the map (pages 16–17) with the numbers below.

Our advertisers are marked below with green text and on the map with a green, numbered dot.

Bars, Pubs, Cafés

Museums, Galleries

Ale Pub Telakka ............................25 Bowler ............................................ 23 Café Qwensel (see Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House) ......................... 221*|1 Café Vimma ......................................... 286 Coffee House Wiklund .......................502 Cup&Pint .............................................. 407 Fika Café ................................607*|28 Gastro-Pub Löytö .................... 551*|4 Hugo .......................................................181* Pelimies Bar & Cafe .............. 132*|27 Teerenpeli ........................................2 Tiirikkala ...............................598*|21 Walo Rooftop Bar Wiklund ..............502

Biological Museum ............................219 Brinkkala Gallery ............................... 157 Forum Marinum Maritime Centre ............................20 Kylämäki – Village of Living History ...............222 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum ..............220*|1 Pharmacy Museum and Qwensel House ................ 221*|1 Sibelius-Museum ................................ 165 Turku Castle and Historical Museum ............ 73*|1 Turku Art Museum .......................22 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art ........................ 163*|1

and Live Music

Restaurants

Baan Thai Restaurant ........... 541*|27 Dennis Ristorante ........................... 3 E. Ekblom .............................. 636*|21 Göran Restaurant Forum Marinum ............................ 21 Huong Viet Vietnamese Restaurant ....... 642*|27 Hus Lindman ........................ 496*|28 KASVIS-ravintola (Vegetarian Restaurant) ....................530 Kerttu ......................................................179 Kivi Restaurant (see Turku City Theatre) ... 155 Masala Indian Restaurant ............ 16 Panini ..................................... 637*|21 Pippurimylly ........................... 181*|4 Rantakerttu ............................ 482*|4 Rapido Wiklund Burgers & Green Stuff .......................502 Rioni Authentic Georgian Food ... 15 Shibui Japanese Restaurant .........24 Smör ....................................... 638*|21 Teini ......................................... 551*|4 Trattoria Wiklund ...............................502 VENN Wiklund ....................................502 Hotels & Hostels

See numbered blue dots 16–17 and 18.

on pages

Map information marked with red dots is based on the database of Turun Aika Magazine.

and Exhibitions

Shopping

You will find the numbered green dot in each advertisement on the map on pages 16–17. Churches

St Catherine´s Church ...............68*|6 St Mary´s Church .....................205*|6 St Michael´s Church ..................76*|6 Turku Cathedral ...................... 69*|6

Children and Families

Adventure Park for Children and Families (Seikkailupuisto) ............. 162*|1 Sports

Impivaara Sports Centre ................... 631 Kupittaa Sports Center ........... 588*|1 Paavo Nurmi Athletic Track ........... 268 Parkki Ice Skating Rink .................... 290 SuperPark – Indoor Activity Park ...7 Swimming all year round

Caribian Spa (Holiday Club Caribia) .......66 Impivaara Public Swimming Pool .. 281 Ispoinen Beach ....................................583 Saaronniemi Beach (Ruissalo Island) ...582 Transportation

Avis Rent a Car .............................. 14 Funicular at Kakolanmäki ...............653 Föri – Non-stop ferry across the river for pedestrians and cyclists ...261 Kupittaa Railway Station ..................265 Local Traffic Service Office – Föli Turku Region Traffic ............. 460 Main Railway Station ......................... 271 Turku Airport .......................................275 Turku Bus Terminal .......................... 266

Other Services

Central Post Office of Turku ........... 270 Humalistonkatu Pharmacy ...........9 LOGOMO – Centre for Cultural, Creative and Business Events .........416 Pharmacy Shopping Centre Hansa ............... 10 Terveystalo Medical Center ..........11 Turku City Theatre .............................. 155 Turku Concert Hall ...................60*|1 Turku Market Hall.........................26 Turku Market Square ..............................1 Turku City Library (see page 26) .. 127*|1 Turku University Hospital First Aid and Emergency Services (in case of emergency call 112) .............................276

For an accurate event calendar of Turku area, see www.turunaika.fi (in Finnish). 14

Föli all-year-round bike station

A MAP IN YOUR POCKET Turku Times MapApp: www.turkutimes.fi

More info: www.visitturku.fi

PHARMACY Right in the heart of Turku Open every day

SHOPPING CENTRE HANSA www.hansatorinapteekki.fi Yliopistonkatu 20, 2nd Floor ☎ +358 (0)2 279 1200

ON-CALL SERVICE OPEN EVERY DAY.

At Terveystalo it is fast and easy to see a physician even without an appointment. Our on-call service is open every day throughout the year, with a specialist in otorhinolaryngology, a specialist in pediatrics, a specialist in orthopedics and traumatology and a general practitioner on call. Come for a visit or call us!

QUICK ACCESS TO GOOD CARE

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Humalistonkatu 9–11 Mon–Fri 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Sat–Sun 9 a.m.–8 p.m. tel. 030 6000*

*Our customer service is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Calls from a landline phone 8.35 cents/call + 3.20 cents/minute, from a mobile phone 8.35 cents/call + 19.33 cents/minute.

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photo: Elonet

Summer night’s passion,

a vampire witch

on the snowfields The Finnish cinema lives on the conflicts between exceptional individuals and the system.

Written by Kari Salminen Translated by Tiina Erkintalo

he history of Finnish cinema is written much like the history of cinema everywhere else. At the beginning, there were the pioneers, then began the classical studio era, followed by the new wave and finally by the triumphal march of commercial entertainment. "The Finnish Hollywood" flourished in the 1930s and 40s, led by two big studios, Suomi-Filmi (1919–1980) and Suomen Filmiteollisuus (1933–1965). The industrial mode of production and the star system worked their magic. The Finns went to the movies more than ever since. Today the Finnish cinema of the studio era is remembered, along with its stars, for its film series and the production cycles that helped maximize the profits. Folksy musical comedies (the so called rillumarei films), historical romances, military farces, rural dramas (Niskavuori series), saga of an urban family (The Suominens series), and crime stories (Inspector Palmu series) still live in the nation’s collective consciousness. The studios began to lose their ground at the turn of the 50s and 60s. Jörn Donner – Finnish film director and Ingmar Bergman’s producer for the Best Foreign Film Oscar winning Fanny & Alexander – wrote his manifesto The Finnish Film in Year Zero in 1961, calling for reform. The new wave did hit the Finnish cinema, but it was shortly followed by a turn towards new realism and naturalism led by patriarchal directors such as Rauni Mollberg and Mikko Niskanen. Mirjami Kuosmanen as Pirita in White Reindeer (1952), directed by Erik Blomberg.

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Kristiinankatu 9, Turku 050 4688051 www.rioni.fi

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All photos: Elonet

Tuulikki Paananen and Ilmari Mänty in Nyrki Tapiovaara's Stolen Death (1938).

Tauno Palo and Ansa Ikonen in Toivo Särkkä's The Vagabond’s Valse (1941).

The great commercial success of Finnish cinema in the 2000s began with the youth film Levottomat (2000). Film directors became trained hired hands and power shifted to the film producers, among whom the most notable is Markus Selin. He started as a partner to film director Renny Harlin, who in turn went as far as Hollywood and now succeeds in China. This new generation distanced themselves from the politicized new wave as well as the large productions with national emphasis. Great artists work within or outside the system. One of the outsiders was leftist radical Nyrki Tapiovaara, who died in the Second World War. His films from the pioneering times had a unique aesthetic style and were of an international class. The Russian-born Theodor Tugai, later Teuvo Tulio, directed 16 strangely fervent noir melodramas in four decades (1936–1972). Another Russian-born and equally style-sensitive was Valentin Vaala, who made as many as 39 films for Suomi-Filmi Studios between 1935-63. His 1948 rendering of Nobel-laureate F.E. Sillanpää’s novel Ihmiset suviyössä (People in the summer night, 1934) is one of the masterpieces of Finnish cinema. Erik Blomberg was yet another original filmmaker. His Valkoinen peura (White Reindeer, 1952) is based on a tale from Sámi folklore and enjoyed also international success. Women in Finnish cinema should not be overlooked. Tulio’s films featured and some of them were also written by Regina Linnanheimo, the beloved film star with flaming eyes. The film White Reindeer in turn was very much a movie by the director’s wife Mirjami Kuosmanen, as she originated the idea, wrote the script and played the main role. One major work rises above the rest in the history of Finnish cinema, the monumental war movie Tuntematon sotilas (The Unknown Soldier, 1955). It is based on a novel by Väinö Linna of the same name, and has been filmed twice since, in 1985 and 2018. In contemporary Finnish cinema, Aki Kaurismäki is an exception, along with his brother Mika. Especially Aki is an all-time favourite of international film critics and film festival networks. He has refined his enthusiasm for films and the influences taken from film history (Chaplin, Renoir, Bresson, Fassbinder and the French new wave) into a unique cinematic postmodernism topped with national nostalgia and kitschy mise-en-scène. Another exceptional case was the one-man film factory Pertti ‘Spede’ Pasanen. His films went down extremely well, even though they were made with cheap TV style. Especially the 20-piece Uuno Turhapuro series (1973–2004) is a monument of national pop movie, whose male and marital satire can only be understood by a Finn, if any. An earlier, similar phenomenon was the 50s Pekka & Pätkä series of films based on popular comic books. The Finns love these picaresque losers, who end up winning even when they lose. s

Veikko Sinisalo (left) and Åke Lindman in Edvin Laine's The Unknown Soldier (1955).

ONE MAJOR WORK RISES ABOVE THE REST, THE MONUMENTAL WAR MOVIE THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER.

"The most Finnish" classics

Nyrki Tapiovaara: Stolen Death (Varastettu kuolema, 1938) Influenced by French impressionism and Russian school of montage, the film is an experimental thriller about activists in the period of Russian oppression in Finland at the turn of the 20th century.

Toivo Särkkä: The Vagabond’s Valse (Kulkurin valssi, 1941) The second most watched Finnish film in history is the climax of historical-romantic studio style.

Valentin Vaala: Ihmiset suviyössä (People in the Summer Night, 1948) Sillanpää-remake of the raging Finnish blood during a Midsummer’s Eve with homosexual references.

Erik Blomberg & Mirjami Kuosmanen: White Reindeer (Valkoinen peura, 1952) The Nordic folk horror movie is well known worldwide.

Edvin Laine: The Unknown Soldier (Tuntematon sotilas, 1955) A nationally unifying war epic.

Mikko Niskanen: Eight Deadly Shots (Kahdeksan surmanluotia, 1972) A reconstructuring epic of police murders filled with fumes of moonshine and male self-pity.

Rauni Mollberg: The Earth is a Sinful Song (Maa on syntinen laulu, 1973) The grotesque depiction of rural life still makes one shiver with its power of folk ballad combined with crude naturalism.

Kulta- ja kelloliike Suominen Yliopistonkatu 24 • 20100 Turku • Tel. +358 2 231 8358

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Hansa

photo: Museum Centre of Turku

WAM

- from artist museum to a meeting place

for contemporary art

Written by Marjo Aurekoski-Turjas, researcher

he 1960s were a time of substantial construction projects in Turku. The centre of the city changed, as old public buildings were demolished and new construction projects launched. The old storehouses on the eastern bank of the River Aura made way for cultural and administrative buildings. The Turku City Theatre, designed by Risto-Veikko Luukkonen and Helmer Stenros (1962), the State office building (1966), the Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art, designed by Irma and Matti Aaltonen (1967), and the Sibelius Museum, designed by Woldemar Baeckman (1967), were all completed within a span of five years.

Wäinö Aaltonen: Maiden of Finland (plaster, 1928). 24

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Linnankatu 72, 20100 Turku - 02 267 9511 - www.forum-marinum.fi 22

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LARS GÖRAN JOHNSSON COLLECTION 24 Jan – 17 May 2020 TU RKU ART M U S EU M AU R AK ATU 26 TU E – FRI 11–19 SAT– SU N 11–17 W W W.TU RU NTAIDEM U S EO. FI

Giving shape to the museum

Day since 1929. The Paavo Nurmi Statue had been unveiled in 1955, as had the Kun ystävyyssuhteet solmitaan (When A Friendship is The construction project of the Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art was Forged) sculpture, symbolising cooperation and friendship between put into full gear in autumn 1962, as 100,000 Finnish marks were Turku and Gothenburg. The Genius ohjaa nuoruutta (Genius Leading reserved in the budget proposal for designing it. The assignment was Youth) sculpture, erected in 1961, is located on the central square of given to Wäinö Aaltonen’s son, architect Matti Aaltonen (1921–1978), the University of Turku. Wäinö Aaltonen presented the museum with its base collection, who was familiar with the artistic work of his father. In addition to Matti Aaltonen and his wife, architect Irma Aaltonen (1919–1998), comprising 16 named sculptures from 1915–1963, 30 paintings, and 100 drawings and graphic prints. The artist’s estate donated the moulds even the sculptor himself participated in the design work. The effects of the artist can be seen in the spacious exhibition facilities which for the series of sculptures in front of the Parliament House, the allow observing three-dimensional art from different directions, plaster model of the sculpture Myrsky (Storm) and the right to cast among other things. Building a lecture hall on the second floor was these works in bronze. The City of Turku bought Aaltonen’s library also most likely an idea posed by Wäinö Aaltonen. The space now and archive of newspaper and magazine clippings and photographs. The overall museal setting was refined according to plans hosts the WAMx exhibition space opened in 2018, which focuses on experimental contemporary art. Facilities were also reserved for received from the artist before the project was completed. A grant of 20,000 Finnish marks was granted to Aaltonen for museum a biological museum and aquarium, which were intended to be opened later. The aquarium in the lobby of the museum, along with research, and Matti and Wäinö Aaltonen went to Europe together its residents, is the favourite of child visitors, and for some, the most to familiarise themselves with museum architecture. They went to at least England and France. However, it is not known whether they important reason to visit the museum. The plot beneath the Samppalinna Windmill where the museum brought back ideas visible in the actualisation of the new museum. In the design phase, places were reserved in the exhibition facilities is located was a familiar place for Aaltonen, and a choice he liked. "It’s right next to Itäinen Rantakatu, which I used to travel whenever for certain pieces of art, sculptures as well as paintings and graphics. The most impressive space of the museum is the sculpture hall with I cycled to the drawing school." Turku City Council decided on opening the museum at its meeting a height of 11 metres, designed for Aaltonen’s sizeable works. The space has since provided a unique setting in March 1964, and the announcement of for several works of contemporary art which a museum carrying the name of Wäinö IN ADDITION TO could not be exhibited elsewhere. Aaltonen became the highlight of the 70th WÄINÖ AALTONEN’S SON, Even though the factor which launched birthday of the artist. The decision also ARCHITECT MATTI AALTONEN the design solution of the museum was received high visibility in the newspapers AND HIS WIFE, adjusting the building to the sloped of the time. The museum was opened to the ARCHITECT IRMA AALTONEN, plot, the staggered structure is also an public on Turku Day on 17 September 1967. attempt to structure meanings included People in Turku already knew of Aaltonen EVEN THE SCULPTOR in architecture and visual arts. The aim of from his several outdoor sculptures around HIMSELF PARTICIPATED the architects to produce a building with the city. Turun Lilja (The Lily of Turku) had IN THE DESIGN WORK. a composed and economical architecture brought people of the city together every May

photo: Hede-Foto, Museum Centre of Turku

The facade of the museum in the 1970’s.

photo: Raakkel Närhi, Museum Centre of Turku

photo: Johanna Seppä, Museum Centre of Turku

The Aquarium gallery at WAM.

Wäinö Aaltonen's Maiden of Finland during WAMbience event in 2016.

The changing museum

THE NUMBER OF EXHIBITIONS IN

THE 1970S AND 1980S, 20-30 EVERY YEAR, WAS ASTONISHING!

produced an environment with clean features and a taste of the ascetic, which the museum specialised in three-dimensional art and sculpted art is still benefitting from over 50 years after the building was completed. Making the building with a light-coloured material was important for the architects. In the sketching phase, they proposed cast concrete elements or grooved Minerit board to be used for the facade. At the request of the city, travertine was used on the main facades as a more refined material than concrete, and calcarenite on the other walls. After being cast, the interior walls were left untreated. The passionate poem ‘Would that my heart were...’ by Wäinö Aaltonen is engraved on the wall of the lobby in eleven languages. Aaltonen used the poem as part of his Omakuva (Self-portrait) painting (1925–1926). The spacious lobby is dominated by the original plaster of the Suomen neito (Maiden of Finland) figure, which was selected as the most beautiful sculpture at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. A decorative detail with particular importance for Aaltonen was the Polyhedron light fitting designed by Italian architect Carlo Scarpa (1906–1978). When travelling in Italy, Aaltonen had gotten to know lawyer Paolo Venini (1895–1959), the owner of an esteemed glass product factory in Murano, and he wanted to include an artefact made at Venini’s factory in the museum.

The Wäinö Aaltonen Museum of Art was launched as the museum of a Finnish sculptor with a significant career, but expectations were high for an institution supporting local visual arts, as well. Since the opening of the museum, topical Finnish and foreign art has been exhibited at two ‘galleries’ on the upper floors, in the changing exhibition space. The number of exhibitions in the 1970s and 1980s, 20–30 every year, was astonishing! In the early 1990s, as the focal point of the operations changed from presenting Aaltonen’s works to changing exhibitions which took up the entire museum, the annual number of exhibitions also decreased. This was due to the costs of large international productions and the decreasing of the available exhibition facilities as the basement facilities which were taken into exhibition use in the mid-1970s were once again used as storage space. Regardless of the changes in alignment, the artist after whom the museum was named was not forgotten. The exhibition facilities and the terrace of the building have always presented a sample of Wäinö Aaltonen’s works. They have also been exhibited as part of some exhibitions of contemporary art. Changes in society and the emergence of new forms of art have expanded the view of the role of a museum of art and its possibilities of meeting the expectations of the public. The architecture of WAM has proven to be flexible and suitable even for complicated exhibition solutions. The ‘white cube’ has taken over part of the role of a cultural living room in providing versatile and participatory side programmes to support the varying exhibitions for visitors of all ages. The museum which presented the life’s work of one artist has claimed its place on the Finnish art field as an attractive meeting place for art which exhibits phenomena of art in a versatile manner. s

photo: Raakkel Närhi, Museum Centre of Turku

The aquarium in the museum lobby.

WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM OF ART – TURKU CITY ART MUSEUM Visiting address: Itäinen Rantakatu 38 Opening hours: Tue–Sun 10–18 Entrance fees: 10 € adults, 5 € reduced price, 4 € 7–15 yrs, under 7 yrs free, 24 € family ticket More information: www.wam.fi

SEE RED NUMBER 163 ON MAP (PAGE 17).

TURKU TI MES

COLUMN

The magic circles of hotels

Written by Heikki Kännö Translated by Owen F. Witesman

my book Sömnö, I write about the magic circles conjured by hotels, which upon entry allow travelers to imagine that they are anywhere in the world. My narrator, Isak Severin, describes his experience in these words: “The metal-clad doors slid open, and I walked down the burgundy, wall-to-wall carpet of the corridor, the air conditioning separating me from the seasons of the world and the heat of the Congo as the illusion continued. Outside those walls covered in their dark wallpaper it was impossible that a metropolis choked by exhaust fumes could be violently churning.” I’ve often thought of a hotel elevator shaft as a birth canal through which a traveler re-enters the world after refreshing himself in his room. He stands for a moment in the shower and then writes in his travel diary or scrolls through his social media feeds before taking a short nap and stepping back out into the strange city as a new person. Woe unto the times we have mistakenly chosen a hotel room with poor transit connections, too far from those sights worth exploring. For example, I remember Rome only as one long exhausting slog under a relentless sun. The journey to our hotel was like a trip to another city. The room was so small that in addition to the bed, space remained only to place our feet next to it on the floor, so spending time there was impossible. We rested on park benches and stretched our backs on the grass beneath the trees. Because that hotel lacked a magic circle, I have rarely felt myself so exhausted than after that trip.

The last day of any journey is always its own animal, something I look forward to with mounting horror. Usually your hotel room must be relinquished by mid-day, leaving you homeless as you await the departure of the means of transportation for the next leg of your journey. And of course, you’ve scheduled activities for those hours: an interesting museum, souvenir shopping, or a final meal in a restaurant that you’ve saved for now. Yet an anxiety fills your mind that you’ll have to spend the rest of the day standing or walking with no opportunity to close a door even for a moment between yourself and this foreign reality. However, none of this means that the magic circles of hotels are only to be found in air conditioning, warm showers, and soundproof windows. The exoticism of a hotel can also do a similar service for a traveler, sometimes even by way of a nightmare. Years ago in Mexico, we arrived by taxi in a small village named Mazunte. I was the only one who at our previous, very primitive stopping place had brushed his teeth with bottled water, so I was also the only one who was still on his feet. We stayed at a small hotel on the top of a mountain rising from the beach. The only free room was the best and most expensive in the hotel; concerned, the proprietor asked whether we really wanted it, since it cost a full 35 euros per night. I killed two flaming red scorpions in the bathroom of our room and then set out the extra bed for myself under the glassless windows. As dusk fell, the members of the party who were ill walked back and forth between the bathroom and their beds by the narrow

Finally, morning penetrated the wooden shades, and I walked out onto the porch. This was like a second room to our suite, a space with rock walls and a ceiling of palm leaves and a view over the village and the ocean shimmering in the sun. Standing there breathing in the fresh breeze, I saw the wide wings of a caracara forming a cross gliding beneath me. I squinted far out to sea, and straight in front of me, as if out of a postcard, the tail of a whale broke the water before diving down again. My sick companions began to crawl from their beds, and some of them felt well enough to go to breakfast. The hotel’s mainly vegetarian cuisine turned out to be excellent, and wooden stairs some hundred meters long descended straight from our porch to the ocean. We had found the magic circle of a hotel again. s 29

Heikki Kännö (b. 1968) is an author and visual artist based in Turku, Finland. He has graduated from the renowned Turku School of Fine Arts (Turun piirustuskoulu). Having worked as an independent artist and graphic designer for some years, Kännö realised that he wanted to tell stories and work with words. Kännö’s first book, Mehiläistie (Sammakko, 2017), was nominated for several literature prizes and his second, Sömnö (2018), was awarded the distinguished Runeberg Prize in 2019. Translation rights of Sömnö have been sold to several countries. Kännö’s novels are set around the world and require a lot of research, thus hotels and travelling are close to his heart.

With more than forty published titles spanning all genres, Owen F. Witesman is the most prolific literary translator ever of Finnish into English. His translations include eleven novels from the Maria Kallio mystery series byLeena Lehtolainen, Sofi Oksanen's Norma, and Laura Lindstedt's Oneiron. He resides in Springville, Utah, with his family.

Photo: Helena Kulmala

beam of a flashlight while the surrounding jungle encroached upon us with a cacophony of chirps, whines, and screams. When I closed my eyes, I saw images of demons and spider gods carved into the walls of Aztec ruins. Then, the moment I fell asleep, I awoke to a loud scratching coming from inside the bag I had dropped on the floor. One of my feverish traveling companions stood beside my bed. “What is it?” she asked. We were both thinking of the fist-sized tarantulas we’d seen running across the road from the windows of the bus. I turned the bag upside down, and the crab that had crawled into my things scampered under the front door, back whence it had come.

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