TECHNOFILE
LRM workshop
by Lindsay Porter
in association with IRB Developments
Landy ‘Leccy Windows
Defender window winder designs changed with the advent of steel doors in the mid-Noughties and with them came a new type of electric window winder mechanism. Both types fit to a bolt-on sub frame. But while the later-type of subframe is the same for both manual and electric windows, the earlier type is not. So, if you’re converting the earlier type, you’ll also need replacement sub frames. However, I’m told it is possible to get away with a bit of cutting and fabrication work with these earlier vehicles, though it’s not something I’ve tried or seen done.
Lindsay became fed up of not being able to wind down the passenger window when he’s left his telescopic arms at home, so Ian Baughan at IRB, with assistance from Tim Consolante of MCL, shows how relatively straightforward it is to convert your Defender’s ‘keep fit’ windows to electric ones.
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Whichever type you’re playing with, you’ll also need a pair of window switches. In those cases where the dash has provision for them, you’ll be able to use genuine Land Rover switches. You’ll need the wiring loom, or be prepared to make up your own from the correct grade of cable, and you’ll need the correct door-to-A-post grommets where the cable passes from one to the other. The best way of identifying what’s needed for your particular Landy is by consulting a Land Rover Parts Catalogue and an official workshop manual. Obviously, I can’t recommend or condone downloading such things from the anarchic ‘interweb’ – but many people do. Or so I’m told…. Picture 1 When removing the door card, Ian took great care not to damage trim clips. Using a proper trim removal tool helps considerably while a screwdriver is almost certain to cause damage.
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10 Picture 2 He’d previously removed winder and door pull handles as well as the door lock surround but it’s always a slightly delicate business removing the door card just in case any of those trim catches are hanging in there. Picture 3 The waterproof seal is designed to keep moisture inside the door where it can (in theory) drain away safely but it’s a pig to remove without damaging it.
these from the door frame… Picture 8 …before starting to unscrew the frame fixing bolts… Picture 9 ...working all around the frame until all were removed.
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Picture 4 Using cardboard to protect the paintwork from its adhesive, Ian wrapped duct tape over the top of the door with the window wound up so that later, the glass would be held in place without dropping.
Picture 11 ...the door latch operating rod which fits in a clip on the inside of the frame. Picture 12 After fiddling the latch handle free… Picture 13 …it was passed through the hole in the frame, allowing the frame to come free while the latch operating rod and latch handle stayed attached to the door.
Picture 5 Ian removed the screws holding the door latch in place… Picture 6 started on the bolts holding the winder mechanism to the door frame.
Picture 14 Next, Ian slackened the bolts holding the winder mechanism to the channel bonded to the bottom of the window glass. Now you can see why the glass was taped up earlier.
Picture 7 My doors have aftermarket central locking solenoids (fitted in a similar way to factory ones) and Ian unscrewed
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Picture 10 He eased the frame forward to gain access to…
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