Dare to Challenge, Born to Educate

By Louise May

Paul Dare’s love for hair began in 1980 after seeing UK hair legend Trevor Sorbie’s WOLFMAN haircut. His journey started in 1978 as an apprentice to a South London hair group, being taught the Vidal Sassoon method of precision haircutting known today as the ABC system. It was an extremely strict and disciplined pathway, it taught him how to create and build shape utilising the three core principles; Solid, Layers and Graduation, and learning how to combine them all using straight blades.

Paul was a precision guru, totally absorbed with teaching; then along came the WOLFMAN, which turned his education upside down. Trevor used a razor which was not allowed in Paul’s early education. Paul went out and bought his first cutthroat razor; no guard and super sharp. He acquired Trevor’s educational video cassette (a tool from the dark ages - no online streaming) and taught himself how to cut the WOLFMAN. “If Trevor could do it, so can I” said Paul. After much blood and not so great results, he finally mastered the tool.

Editor Louise May chats with Paul Dare about his journey in the industry, his love for cutting and education and his desire to awaken the artist within all hairdressers.

Can you tell us a little about how learning this new method changed things for you?

It was a lightbulb moment! WOW! A tool I wasn’t allowed to use in my apprenticeship now gave me a new focus and creative approach to hair cutting, shape and texture all in one go. I questioned that my beginnings, albeit solid, were also narrow. I went on to purchase texturizing scissors and clippers, also an early no-no, and applied them to my foundation philosophy. Cutting with these tools made me understand that it doesn’t matter what tool you use but how to create shape and understand the different finish each tool gives you.

Enter the new and revised Paul Dare! Challenge became my middle name; wet, dry, freehand, blunt, texture, razor, or clipper cutting, the more I pushed the boundaries the more I grew, both creatively and emotionally. With an insatiable appetite for travel, I covered Europe and eventually came to Australia, securing a position with SA’s top salon group, Clip Joint. I chose them above Sydney and Melbourne salons because they made me prove my ability to cut hair. Other State offered me work just because I was UK trained.

I worked my way up in the company handling all photographic images, structuring the educational curriculum for the new academy while also working behind the chair. In 1989 I set up my own salon, Dare Hair. It was a beautiful minimalistic environment where the hair was always the STAR. In this creative environment, I went on to win 3 Schwarzkopf Australian hairdressing awards and was a runner up in the 1991 Avant Garde category. I relocated in 1994 to a main road location and doubled the salon size, also picking up Best New Salon Design at the Sydney Hair Expo. I continued to pick up awards in 1995, 1996, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2004.

A huge highlight was receiving the Legends Award in 2008. This recognition prompted the major manufacturers to utilise me as an educator and showman. This was another lesson to learn as I had no formal training in public speaking. I was growing as a platform artist and loving it. Performing in front of large audiences became comfortable as I presented shows in Europe, Scandinavia, Asia, and the Americas.

My true love comes from teaching small workshops of 12 students at the most. It is so exhilarating to see the light bulb come on when a hairdresser sees their potential as I did when watching Trevor’s Razor cut WOLFMAN. I challenge all students to tackle tools they have never used; our mannequins are not the most attractive when we have finished but there is an appreciation of a new tool and technique. To challenge hairdressers with my philosophy I needed a tool that was outside hairdressing but used creatively.

I chose a woodworker’s chisel from my garage. I wanted to illustrate that it doesn’t matter what you use if you understand the fundamentals of cutting. Then I perfected a technique of how to cut hair using a wood chisel. THIS created a massive stir and hairdressers in the classes or when I was on a platform thought I was a wanker, but after performing a haircut they were amazed at the result and asked if chisels were available for purchase, which of course I supplied!

The late Tim Payne found me the most exquisite Japanese craftsman chisels, which I sold. The problem with this tool was the balance and non-changeable blade so another journey started; industrial design and manufacturing. What a journey this became! In collaboration with an industrial designer, we came up with the Dare Chisel, beautifully balanced with disposable blades offering the same textured finish I was getting out of the old woodworker’s chisel. Wow!

My $70,000 project blew out to $250,000! My heart was still in it, and I believed I could recoup the money. Selling out at our first expo, I went on to recoup after the first year, phew! I continue to take this Australian product to the world and have just launched the new Dare Chisel website, darechisel. com. The next journey is taking my Cut Like a Master-Class to the world with my years of knowledge condensed into an online master class now available at pauldare. co.

I cover all the tools and techniques to expand the mind and allow full creativity. Fashion is a cycle; short, long, straight, and curly will always be around and having a solid foundation to cope with all of this is paramount. My masterclass will deliver this. My journey continues and I am still loving it.

Did you always know that education would be your lifelong passion?

NO! I set out to be the best hairdresser I could be, and it wasn’t until I started teaching workshops that I realised there was a weakness in the education system. I now love sharing my knowledge and get a huge buzz when I see the light come on. It takes a strong individual to realise they do not know everything and are prepared to take a few steps back before taking a huge leap forward. The positive feedback I have received over the past 20 years shows appreciation from those who have taken my class.

Looking back over your career, what have been some of the most significant changes that you have witnessed to the methodology of training with hairdressers?

The most significant change is the absence of exposing the apprentice to ALL the industry has to offer, all the techniques and tools. Some institutions do, the majority do not.

What effects have these changes had on industry stakeholders, such as salon owners, colleges, and the stylists themselves?

The majority of the industry are all fighting for the same client as there is a lack of knowledge to look outside the square, the same cuts and styles are being repeated. Challenge your client, take them out of the mainstream into a new direction! Push your boundaries and theirs.

I run a tight ship where all stylists can work with all tools and techniques giving us a diverse client base looking for unique bespoke looks. This makes for a fun day with different challenges. Limited skill means boring clients walking out with the same look. Looks that everyone else produces, hence everyone is fighting for the same client.

Why do you feel that quality education is so important to the future of our industry?

We are all artists and to reach your full potential you need to understand all techniques and tools. Repetitive haircuts will eventually bore the hairdresser who will eventually leave this amazing industry way too early. Art students do not go to art school and learn painting by numbers. They learn technique and how to work with multiple tools and different mediums. With this knowledge they can be true artists. This is no different for hairdressers.

What education do you offer through your platform? Let’s delve into some of the courses.

and the Paul Dare journey. 2. Solid form. 3. Uniform layer 4. Graduation 5. Application 6. Freehand (Dry Cut) 7. Breaking the rules 8. The chisel. Each lesson is broken down in easy to follow steps. How to fully understand the 3 core angles, how to merge them together to create shape. How to use all the hairdressing tools and how to apply them. How to break all the rules to further create.

What do you feel is unique about your methods and programs?

I am not trying to teach a haircut but how to cut hair. There is a formula to follow, but an explanation as to what each angle will achieve and what shapes you can build. I have broken all the rules to be the hairdresser I am today; my class will show hairdressers the same pathway.

Who are these programs for and how will it benefit these individuals?

All hairdressers from first year to qualified, anyone that wants to expand their knowledge and grow. We cannot know everything and must always keep our minds open to all new things.

You have designed the Chisel; can you tell us about this and why it is unique?

The chisel is the only cutting tool that allows you to stab the hair off, giving a unique texture that cannot be achieved with any other tool. It gives the hairdresser limitless sculptural freedom, allowing the hairdresser to slice, chop, and shatter, giving amazing texture. It has a revolutionary ergonomic design, perfect balance and reduces fatigue. It is manufactured to exacting standards. The Dare Chisel is lightweight and durable. In the hands of a stylist, it’s designed to be an extension of the human form, providing fluid mobility but without the muscle fatigue associated with the long-term use of scissors.

What is the most rewarding aspect of what you do?

Expanding the minds of clients and students alike. Teaching all how to create to achieve the perfect balanced look. Taking away blinkers and watching the smiles.

If you could leave the industry at some point having achieved one goal or legacy, what would that be?

To have turned the tide on mediocrity and awakened the artist within us all through the Paul Dare Master-Class. Truly making the Dare Chisel the 5th element in the hairdresser’s tool bag and to be known as “A Cut Above From The Land Below”.