6 minute read
Mastering Blonde to Copper and back to Blonde!
By Kristina Russell
You don’t get second chances when it comes to hair-painting redheads. Clients don’t give you a second chance. If you f**k up a client’s red or copper they don’t come back. They don’t refer their friends to you.
Redheads rebook every 6 weeks for colour retouches as opposed to Balayage clients every 6 months. What is the cost to your salon business if you don’t know how to confidently offer hair painting for redheads? It only takes one unhappy redhead to ruin your reputation.
In the world of hairdressing, our clients expect us to stay ahead of the game, creating the hottest trends with precision and expertise. One trend that’s been catching fire lately is the journey from blonde to copper and back again. In this article, we’ll dive into the nitty-gritty of this transformation, offering practical insights, techniques, and formulation ideas to equip you for success in the salon.
As a Hair Colour Specialist, I am THE destination that Redheads or anyone wanting to try a shade of red will travel to see for their next hair colour journey. My areas of expertise are Hair Painting for Redheads and Colour Transformations/ Corrections, which are often for Redheads, including Blonde to Copper and removing box dye to reveal Red.
I teach hairdressers all over the globe, work in the salon a few days a week, host a podcast, and teach in-salon workshops, all while juggling life being a cat mum and loving partner to my fiancé, Jaz.
And now, it’s my mission to help inspire, motivate, and equip other Hairdressers to do the same....
Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, mastering this colour journey is essential for meeting your client’s demands and exceeding their expectations.
Transitioning from Blonde to Copper
Client Option #1: Full Head Bleach Blonde or Full Head Light Tint to Copper:
Imagine your client, a platinum blonde or light tint enthusiast, eager to embrace the warmth and richness of copper.
To achieve this transformation, start by assessing the current blonde shade and determining the desired copper level. For example, transitioning from a Level 10 platinum blonde to a Level 7 copper requires careful formulation to prime the hair for a natural looking copper colour, that’s shiny and beautiful. You’ll need to utilise a gold or gold-orange filler to prepare the hair for the copper hue, followed by a precise application of semi or demi-permanent colour to achieve the desired depth and vibrancy.
Client Option #2: Balayage to Copper Transformations:
Transitioning from balayage to copper presents a unique set of challenges due to the varied colour tones and textures. Start by assessing the lightness levels and offering maintenance options tailored to your client’s needs. Whether opting for a seamless balayage-inspired look or incorporating tinted highlights and lowlights, customisation is key. Detailed consultations and strategic application techniques, such as zone toning and foil highlighting, ensure a harmonious transition and long-lasting results. Wherever the hair is darker than a Level 7 Copper you’ll need to lighten it, and in the zones the hair is lighter than a 7 you’ll need to deposit colour on with a demi.
Client Option #3: Grown-Out Babylights with Mostly Natural Hair:
Clients with grown-out baby lights require a delicate approach to achieve a naturallooking copper hue. Treat the hair as virgin, focusing on toning the lightened tips while preserving hair health. Consider dry cutting techniques to remove any damaged ends before colour application. Strategically paint over babylights with the midlengths and ends formula to achieve a seamless blend. Emphasise the importance of gradual colour transformation and realistic expectations during consultations.
Transitioning Back from Copper to Blonde
Client Option #1: Full Head Bleach Blonde or Full Head Light Tint to Copper:
Returning a client with a full head of copper to their original blonde shade requires a strategic approach. Begin by assessing the current copper hue and identifying any underlying warmth or depth. For clients with a Level 7 copper, transitioning back to blonde may involve a colour-removal process to eliminate excess pigment.
Utilise a peroxide-free colour stripper or remover to gently lift the copper pigment without compromising hair health. Once the copper has been lifted, proceed with a customised bleach application to achieve the desired blonde level while minimising damage and preserving hair integrity. My favourite option for colour removal is De Lorenzo Nova Illiminator. With all colour corrections, you need to do test strands before any product is applied.
Client Option #2: Balayage to Copper Transformations:
For clients transitioning from balayage to copper and seeking a return to their blonde roots, careful colour correction is essential. Assess the depth and distribution of the copper hue, focusing on areas where the colour is most concentrated.
Depending on the client’s desired outcome, consider a combination of colour removal techniques and targeted bleach applications to lift the copper pigment and reveal underlying blonde tones. Incorporate bonding agents such as Olaplex or K18 to protect hair integrity and minimise damage during the colour correction process. I love utilising Basin Balayage on wet hair for this type of transformation, and I teach these techniques step-by-step in my online course Hair Painting for Redheads.
Client Option #3: Grown Out Babylights with Mostly Natural Hair:
Clients with grown-out babylights who wish to return to their original blonde shade require a delicate balancing act of colour correction and preservation. Begin by assessing the extent of the copper hue and identifying any areas of overlapping colour. For clients with minimal copper pigment, a targeted bleach application may be sufficient to lift the colour and reveal underlying blonde tones.
However, for those with significant copper saturation, a combination of colour removal and gentle lightening techniques may be necessary to achieve the desired result while minimising damage and preserving hair health. Always test strand every process before applying the products. I love to utilise base breakers or lightening toners if your clients’ ends are warmer than the roots for this first transition appointment, as taught in my online course Hair Painting for Redheads.
Transitioning clients from blonde to copper and back again is a journey of creativity, skill, and technical expertise. By understanding the principles of formulation, technique, and client communication, hairdressers can achieve stunning transformations that exceed expectations.
Now is the time to transform your relationship with formulations and hair colouring, make more money and uplevel your salon colour clientele in every way imaginable.
I have flexible education pathways suitable for every learning style with online programs and in-person events. Take a look at my website if you’re a hairdresser or salon owner, suite owner, booth renter, commission stylist, self-employed freelancer, newbie to the industry or salon professional with years of experience.
Please reach out to me to enquire about attending a class or hosting me in your space in 2024 for a hands-on workshop or demonstration session. I will be touring across Australia and internationally.
Learn more about my Brand Free Colour Academy for Hairdressers at www.kristinarussell.com.au/courses
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