APRIL 2019 1
TEAM EDITOR IN CHI EF Eva-Delilah Wieland
ART CURATOR Channing Smith
DEPUTY EDITOR Cassie Hurwitz
PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Max Goldberg
ART DIRECTOR Lauren Chung WUD PRESIDENT Mills Botham WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE DIRECTOR Fernanda Martinez Rodriguez WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE ADVISOR Jen Farley ON THE COVER Rachel Rauth by Jordan Biagomala
CREATIVE DIRECTORS Geordon Wollner Reilly Koch FASHION EDITOR Ashley Mackens LIFESTYLE EDITOR Molly Rapozo CULTURE EDITOR Haidee Chu ARTS EDITOR Naomi Gallagher SOCIAL MEDIA AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Lindsey Young FINANCIAL DIRECTOR Maggie Brennan WEBMASTER Anna Soboleva EVENT DIRECTOR Ashleigh Perry
2 MODA
STAFF WRITERS Ariana King Elise Andersen Gloria Requena Katie Herrick Kate Lawless Madeline Rasmussen Martha Daniels Samaaya Jayamaha CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anna Soboleva Bella Mandarino Claire Young Julianne Cornell Raynee Hamilton MODELS Amelia Faist Ciara Havlik Cierra Yakes Indie Poole Katie Herrick Kate Fulshaw Lauren Lenz Molly Jacobs Natalie Burns Phoebe Smolan Rachel Rauth ART Allyson Konz Channing Smith PHOTOGRAPHY Annika Ide Jordan Biagomala Indie Poole Katie Herrick Owen Desai Max Goldberg Molly Jacobs
TABLE OF CONTENTS APRIL 2019
LIFESTYLE
12 15 22
REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE
A helpful guide
REFRESH YOUR SKIN
The best DIY face mask ingredients
GREEN HYGIENE
Eco-friendly alternatives to your everyday personal care items
36 51 37
A LETTER FROM A FRIEND
Anxiety from a new point of view
FASHION
16 32
COUNTRY-CHIC
34 38
H&M: WILLING & SUSTAINABLE
Go rural without sacrificing style
THE OG FASHIONISTAS ARE BACK Borrowing from your Bratz doll
Paving the way for eco fashion
OLD CLOTHES, NEW LIFE
Thrifting isn’t just for those on a budget
RETHINK WHAT YOU DRINK
The benefits of tap water
CULTURE
48 50
SPILLING THE BEANS ON FAIR TRADE The truth behind your cup of java
FOOD JUSTICE FOR ALL Fixing food deserts in Madison
FEATURED
5
25 40
SPRING REVIVAL
Reimagine the ancient myth with floral hair dresses
HIDDEN GEMS Subtle jewelry that makes a statement
WATCHFUL EYES Feminine queer identity
CHINA’S GRIP ON TIBET How freshwater plays a role in geopolitics
ARTS
51 53
A FRESH TAKE ON FESTIVALS Revival in a new age of activism
IN DEFENSE OF SUBURBIA
Artists who expound on the magic and sorrow of the suburbs
APRIL 2019 3
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Thinking Green Living in Wisconsin, we all know how thrilling those first few weeks of real spring can be. The moment the temperature rises above 60 degrees and the grass starts to green, it’s like the population doubles as people come out from their winter hideaways to take in the long awaited sun and air. We wanted to exude the season’s life and energy in this month’s issue—Fresh. Within, you will find looks inspired by nature, from greenhouse accessories to fashion from the countryside to the portrayal of flora in art. With this monthly, the Moda staff is also taking the opportunity to check in on our own relationships with the environment and share some important information about sustainability with our readers. As you page through, you’ll learn about misconceptions surrounding fairtrade coffee, how your beauty routine is affecting the planet, as well as the true sources of commercialized water. Not to mention, the lifestyle section breaks down the best ways to recycle with our easy-to-digest guide. Additionally, although there is nothing like the crisp, tactile printed pages of a magazine like Moda, our digital platform allows us to publish every month, sharing our content with thousands of readers without having to bind a single sheet of paper or lay a drop of ink. After reading, I ask you all to take a candid look at the way you interact with our environment and make the changes you can to live a more respectful, eco-conscious and fresh life. It is up to us to make a change! Cheers,
4 MODA
Spring Revival WRITTEN AND DIRECTED BY ANNA SOBOLEVA, WEBMASTER STYLED BY NICOLE NILSON AMELIA FAIST, RACHEL RAUTH AND CIERRA YAKES PHOTOGRAPHED BY JORDAN BIAGOMALA Around the world, April is associated with revival. As the weather gets warmer and snow melts away, we spring clean our homes and introduce color back into our lives. Nearly every year, floral patterns are a central element of many designers’ spring collections. Flower crowns are nothing new. One way or another, they often appear in runway designs. But when did this trend originate? During ancient times, the month of April was associated with Flora, the Roman goddess of spring, fertility and blossom.
The Romans celebrated the Festival of Floralia by feasting and decorating their homes, temples, animals and clothing with flowers. At the time, Flora captured the attention of the greatest artists of the Renaissance and beyond. Flora was depicted wearing a crown of flowers by Sandro Botticelli, Rembrandt and numerous other European painters. Inspired by the portrayal of Flora in art, this series of photographs showcases confident, stunning and modern “deities of spring.”
APRIL 2019 5
6 MODA
APRIL 2019 7
8 MODA
APRIL 2019 9
10 MODA
APRIL 2019 11
LIFESTYLE
REDUCE, REUSE THE HISTORY OF RECYCLING IN MADISON, IN GLOBAL CONTEXT: In the historic words of Ilana Glazer: Reduce, reuse, recycle, Rihanna
1940s
Recycling became a larger practice in order to help support the WWII efforts. Ads were pushed at housewives to save raw materials to be repurposed in the war.
1970
1968
Madison began recycling in September of this year, making it “the first community in the United States to offer curbside recycling services,” and making 2019 the 51st year of recycling here.1 1“50 Years of Recycling,” cityofmadison. com
1976
Curbside appliance collection recycling program began.
and
1991 The curbside recycling program became so popular that fewer people were using the drop-off sites, so the 13 drop-off sites were reduced to two. Those two are still the only recycling centers we have today, and they are mainly open for drop-offs of harder to recycle items such as large household items, appliances and electronics, but they do take general recyclables as well.
2011 A pilot program began in Madison for the collection of food scraps to turn into compost. Unfortunately, the program ended in 2018, but there are ideas laid out in Imagine Madison’s Comprehensive Plan, outlining goals and benefits of food scrap recycling to hopefully be picked up by the city again soon. 1 1“Interactive Plan,” imaginemadison.com
12 MODA
1980
In an effort to keep yard waste from entering landfills, as yard waste is a very usable material, a voluntary yard waste collection program began. Leaves were delivered to area farmers for composting.1 1“The History of Earth Day,” Earthday.org.
2015
California became the first state to employ an entire state-wide ban on plastic bags. 1 Grocery stores and convenience stores are no longer allowed to distribute the bags to customers, requiring a switch to either paper or reusable bags. 1Matt Bradbury, “A Brief Timeline of the History of Recycling,” Busch Systems Resource Center, April 14, 2016.
The first Earth Day is celebrated on April 22. The previous year saw a devastating oil spill in Santa Barbara, California, inspiring Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson to create a day dedicated to protecting Mother Earth. Initially focused toward students, the late-April date was picked because it fell between spring break and final exams. The day of, 20 million Americans rallied to support the environment. Ultimately, the protests helped create the Environmental Protection Agency as well as the Clean Air, Clean Water and Endangered Species Acts. 1 1“The History of Earth Day,” Earthday.org.
2018 Ontario’s Ministry of the Environment and Climate Change released a framework for food scrap recycling, similar to Madison’s outlined plan. The province will have a ban against food and organic waste ending up in landfills in place by 2022. 1 1Matt Bradbury, “A Brief Timeline of the History of Recycling,” Busch Systems Resource Center, April 14, 2016.
& RECYCLE
BY MOLLY RAPOZO, LIFESTYLE EDITOR AND CASSIE HURWITZ, DEPUTY EDITOR ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR
RECYCLING DOS & DON’TS: PAPER
Dos: cardboard “cores” from toilet paper/paper towels; cardboard food boxes; envelopes; gift wrap (NOT tissue or foil paper); magazines/newspapers; paper juice or milk cartons (even with a plastic spout!); receipts and bills; soda cases Don’ts: photographs; pads/tampons; soiled or stained cardboard/paper; tissue paper
GLASS
Dos: bottles and jars (remove lids) Don’ts: baking dishes; bottles and jars with food still in them (rinse!); ceramics; chemical bottles; dishes/bowls; drinking glasses; flower plants; incandescent or LED light bulbs; windows or mirrors
PLASTIC
Dos: plastics 1-7; berry/deli containers; plastic security packaging; bottles with lids; condiment bottles; cups 1, 2
and 5; dairy tubs and lids; jugs with lids; laundry bottles with lids Don’ts: FOOD; bubble wrap; cups 3, 4, 6 and 7; dark green or black bags; drawstring bags; food wrap; wrap from meat products
METAL
Dos: aluminum foil (should be balled up to approx. baseball size); cans; metal lids from jars and bottles; pots and pans; small appliances such as toasters Don’ts: anything more than 10lbs; car parts; wire hangers
ELECTRONICS
Dos: Take any electronic device to a drop-off site or registered private electronics recycler! If the computer, TV or microwave still works, take it to Goodwill to be donated.1 Don’ts: Most electronics are banned by landfills, but should not be placed in curbside recycling bins, either. 1“City of Madison Television Computer and Electronics Recycling Program,” Cityofmadison.com
COMPOSTING TIPS: On average, Americans waste one pound of food per day. Composting helps combat that stat. Some compost bins should only have fruit and vegetable waste. Others, including UW–Madison’s pickup, can include meat, dairy, egg shells, coffee grounds, bread and pasta, among other food scraps. Check your local community for information on what to leave out. UW–Madison’s compost program also allows paper products like pizza boxes, paper towels and napkins.1 5“Composting,” Sustainability.wisc.edu.
Bury food scraps below the surface to avoid flies. Moisture is key, so add enough water to make your compost pile slightly damp. If your compost program allows yard waste, try keeping a 50-50 balance of green—grass clippings and food waste— and brown—leaves and other high-carbon materials. Some programs, like UW’s, do not allow this “brown” category.2 Whatever the rules, be sure to check where your local drop-off spots are. UW offers locations all over campus, including the unions, dining halls and residence halls. 6“Composting,” Cityofmadison.com.
APRIL 2019 13
THE BASICS What the hell are those numbers? They correspond to \ chemicals found in the products, plus how leachable and biodegradable they are. The numbers determine what is taken curbside—the low-risk or not bad for the environment numbers, like six, and what the recycled item is turned into.1 The numbers are located inside the recycling symbol, if there is one. If jars or containers have food residue, you should definitely swish water around in them until most of the residue is
gone. Sticky things (jams, honey) should be scrubbed more thoroughly. Pizza boxes with a lot of grease should NOT be recycled (one or two spots is ok). Coffee cups are not recyclable! That waxy coating on the inside prevents it, but you can still recycle lids, straws and the cardboard holders.
2“What Do the Recycling Numbers Mean?,” Residential Waste Systems, January 12, 2018.
THE BAG BREAKDOWN Always use reusable bags. If you don’t have a bag with you, there’s no clear-cut answer to whether paper or plastic is better for the environment.1 Paper takes more energy to produce, but plastic bags entail all the negatives of plastic production. Surprisingly, plastic bags take up less space in landfills but are rarely disposed of properly, most prominently harming ocean creatures such as whales and sea turtles.2 There’s no “better option” when you’re lacking a reusable bag, but whichever you choose, make sure to reuse the bag until it’s falling apart and dispose of it properly when finished. Don’t recycle plastic—try bringing those bags to designated grocery store recycling bins or use them as garbage bags. 3“Paper vs. plastic bags,” All About Bags. 4“Paper or plastic?,” Enviroliteracy.org.
14 MODA
LIFESTYLE
Refresh Your Skin BY KATE LAWLESS, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAX GOLDBERG Face masks are a staple for many people’s skincare routines and, of course, every pamper night. They are good for your skin and even better for a cute spa day selfie. But, between the cost of shopping at Lush and Sephora, or grabbing masks at the drugstore with lots of long, chemical-y names you’ve never heard of, it can sometimes feel like you have to choose between quality ingredients and low cost. Luckily, you have another option. You probably already have many of the ingredients to make a great face mask in your home. Basic food essentials can be mixed together to create a mask personalized to your skincare needs without breaking the bank. With these tips, you too can DIY your way to glowing, healthy skin.
THE DO-IT-ALL INGREDIENT
Organic honey is a great natural moisturizer because of its sugar content. There isn’t much water included when bees make it, so honey pulls in moisture from the air to make the ingredient extra hydrating. It also contains antioxidants and antibacterial properties that will speed up the repair of skin damage, leaving you with softer and smoother skin.1 Honey is a great base for any face mask or can be used solo to brighten and moisturize your skin.
TO HYDRATE AND PLUMP
Besides being the star of any millennial’s brunch, avocados are full of fats that hydrate and even your skin tone. They draw water into your skin using humectants, which minimize fine lines and wrinkles, and their high levels of vitamin E help prevent sun, smoke and pollution damage.2
TO BRIGHTEN
Lemons contain citric acid and vitamin C which can brighten and eventually lighten your skin with continued use—meaning they’ll help with sun damage and dark spots. Like honey, they contain antioxidants and can boost collagen production to help with signs of aging and minimize oiliness.3 However, don’t ever apply lemon directly onto your skin before diluting it with other face mask ingredients. The acidity of lemons can bleach your skin and make you more susceptible to sun damage.
TO SOOTHE SENSITIVE SKIN
Oatmeal is more than a delicious source of fiber. It’s naturally gentle on skin, locks in moisture and can soothe sensitive or inflamed skin.4 People who have eczema, acne or easily irritated skin can include oatmeal in their face masks without fearing the exacerbation of these issues.
TO EXFOLIATE
Plain yogurt is good for your insides and your outsides—it contains lactic acid which is a natural and gentle exfoliant because it dissolves dead skin, instead of roughly scrubbing it away.5 The good bacteria in yogurt helps smooth your skin and can fight acne, too. Next time you’re craving the luxuriousness of a face mask but don’t want to break the bank, stop by your local grocery store to mix and match any of these skincare heroes, creating the mask of your dreams.
“The Benefits of Avocado in Your Natural Skin Care Routine,” 100% PURE. 3“11 Beauty Uses for Lemons,” Women’s Health, May 25, 2018. 4“11 Benefits of Oats for Skincare,” School of Natural Skincare. 5Liz Thompson, “5 Benefits of a Yogurt Face Mask for Gorgeous, Glowing Skin,” Organic Authority, April 6, 2017. 2
Jesa Marie Calaor, “Why You Should Start Slathering Your Skin With Honey, According to Derms,” Allure, November 30, 2018. 1
APRIL 2019 15
FASHION
Countryside-chi BY GLORIA REQUENA, FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MOLLY JACOBS, PHOEBE SMOLAN & LAUREN LENZ PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAX GOLDBERG BLUE DRESS WITH FAUX FUR, LIGHT WASH JEAN DRESS DESIGNED BY TESS HURLEY WHITE TWO PIECE SET DESIGNED BY CORINNE EBEL, STUDENT DESIGNER
16 MODA
ic
APRIL 2019 17
An invitation out to the country for the weekend is always a pleasure. If your daily routine involves going to school or work, chances are you spend most of your time in restrictive, tailored clothes and sober colors. A weekend getaway to the countryside is the best opportunity to relax and escape from it all, as well as a great excuse to explore new styles. Choosing the right outfits for country activities can be challenging. When going on a hike, no one wants to look out of place—or worse—impractical. Fashionistas don’t like rules about what to wear when, but outside of an urban environment it is better to be comfortable. This doesn’t mean looking frumpy; it means looking country-chic without attracting too much attention for the wrong reasons.1 The key is to combine function and design, tempered with a modern twist. Get inspiration from Scottish style. “Oversized, comfy knits, cool parkas, silk white shirts, sumptuous capes, smart kilts and an abundance of tweed” are the perfect lineup for an outdoors brunch.2 Thinking of the best color palette, try earthy colours, creams, taupes and chocolates. A pair of straight jeans will come in handy if you plan to go horseback riding, but create a softer look by opting for a navy version rather than black denim. If you’re driven by the ultra-British style, you might prefer a mid-calf pleated skirt or a cotton twill one for that prairie ramble. Avoid over-embellished styles and cuts— straight cut are best and they will fit snugly into your wellies. If you would like to add a little something extra to your picnic outfit, a classic wool felt hat will put that bohemian touch on the perfect dreamy countryside look.
1Anna Harvey, “Anna Harvey on the perfect capsule wardrobe for a weekend in the country,” The Telegraph, May 2, 2018. 2Tish Weinstock, “Re-inventing countryside chic with stella tennant and isabella cawdor”, i-D, September 19, 2016.
18 MODA
APRIL 2019 19
20 MODA
It might seem as though high fashion designers do not care about outdoors style, however, some are taking country-chic for a spin. The British lifestyle brand Holland & Holland is the pioneer label in reinventing countryside fashion. Described as “creators of the finest English countryside clothing,” this historic brand enlisted ex-Vogue stylist Isabella Cawdor and supermodel Stella Tennant to give their clothing line a makeover. Driven by their Scottish roots, the two women combined their love and understanding of the country and their instinctive style to create a collection that is stylish and fit for purpose. Their
pieces are designed to work in the countryside as well as within an urban setting, remaining stylish despite their technical usefulness.3 The rise in chic mountain-wear stems from catwalk brands such as Ralph Lauren, who, driven by the equestrian style, have long been designing clothes that are practical yet stylish. From utility denim to feminine floral skirts, these statement pieces will keep us on trend and comfortable while we search for relaxation in nature. Who said style was limited to the fashion capitals?
3“Spring/Summer 2019 clothing collection description,” Holland & Holland.
APRIL 2019 21
LIFESTYLE
GRE E N H YG I E NE BY ELISE ANDERSEN, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR
An often overlooked area in terms of being eco-friendly is personal care and hygiene. We typically don’t think twice about the environmental impact of throwing away makeup wipe after makeup wipe or replacing plastic toothbrushes every few months. Not only does the beauty and hygiene industry create a massive amount of waste, but these products are also often full of chemicals that are harmful to the planet and our bodies.
22 MODA
Before you head to the drugstore to pick up another package of tampons or a bottle of sulfate-filled shampoo, consider opting for an eco-friendly alternative.
MENSTRUAL PRODUCTS
It is estimated that the average woman throws away 250-300 pounds of pads and tampons during her lifetime.1 Marissa Higgins, “5 Eco-Friendly Period Products You Will Actually Want To Use,” Green Matters. 1
These items are not recyclable, leaving them to sit in landfills for hundreds of years. Luckily, there is a wide variety of eco-friendly menstrual products available, providing many options to find what works best for each individual body and cycle.
Although moving away from traditional pads and tampons might be uncomfortable and scary at first, the wide variety of options available on the market today allows for experimentation until you find the right fit for you and your body.
A popular product is the reusable menstrual cup, a non-absorbent cup inserted into the body to catch your flow. Two of the most popular brands include DivaCup and Lunette, but there are plenty of others to choose from—Tampax has even joined the menstrual cup revolution and created their own version.
MAKEUP REMOVAL
Not only are menstrual cups an ecofriendly option, but they also prove to be cheaper than continuously buying pads and tampons. Most menstrual cups cost around $40 and have a life cycle of two-three years if taken care of properly. An $8 box of tampons every month, or $40 once every few years? You do the math and decide. If the thought of a menstrual cup is too intimidating, there are plenty of other eco-friendly products available to keep you comfortable during your time of the month. The revolutionary “period panties” take away any fear of leaking through your underwear, as they are essentially underwear and a pad in one. These super absorbent underwear are meant to be worn once and then washed, and although multiple pairs might be a bit expensive, they’re comfortable, easy to use and eco-friendly. Similar products include reusable pads made out of cloth that are to be washed after each use. Brands like GladRags offer reusable pads in a variety of absorbances, making it customizable for every day of your cycle. If none of these suit you, there are applicator-less tampons available, which help reduce the amount of waste produced by traditional tampons. One brand, o.b. tampons, takes away the applicator and also makes their tampons elemental chlorine-free, minimally-packaged and made out of renewable resources.
If you’re like me, one-and-done makeup remover wipes have become a staple in your nighttime routine. It wasn’t until recently that I began to think of the negative environmental impact these pre-moistened cloths have—not only do they pile up in the garbage can—and then in a landfill—but they also come in plastic packages and are often filled with nasty chemicals. Disposable makeup wipes are the third leading cause of waste in landfills—7.6 billion pounds of them a year, to be exact.2 The wipes themselves are typically made up of polyester, polypropylene, cotton, wood pulp and rayon fibers—all materials that are not biodegradable.3 The agents that do the actual removing in many makeup wipes include formaldehyde-releasing chemicals, solubilizers, surfactants and emulsifiers—all which can be irritating to the skin as well as harmful to the earth.4 Luckily, there are plenty of eco-friendly, chemical-free alternatives to remove even the most stubborn waterproof mascara. One of the simplest and skinfriendliest ways to remove makeup is with coconut oil. It works as a two-in-one—removing makeup while moisturizing the skin at the same time. To use coconut oil as a makeup remover, take a small amount in clean hands, rub it around to warm it up and then spread it over your face. It’s safe around the eyes, and although not necessary, you can use a washcloth or reusable cotton face pad to speed up the process. In no time, you’ll see the makeup melt off your face and be left with glowing, super-soft skin. “Makeup Eraser - The Original Makeup Eraser Makeup Remover Cloth,” Sephora. 3 Jessica Cruel, “8 Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Your Beloved, Landfill-Filling Makeup Wipes,” Self. 4Amber Rambharose, “Sorry, But Makeup Wipes Are the Actual Worst,” Glamour. 2
Speaking of reusable cotton pads, these are a must-have in any ecofriendly bathroom. Like makeup remover wipes, one-time-use drugstore cotton pads pile up in landfills for years to come. Brands like S.W. Basics sell reusable cloth cotton pads that can be used with coconut oil or micellar water and are sold in sets of eight, with an included laundry bag. Other environmentally-friendly ways to remove makeup include cloths and towels. Sephora sells the MakeUp Eraser Makeup Remover Cloth, a towel that removes makeup with just water. It is meant to be washed once every few uses, but each towel has a lifespan of 1000+ washes. Similar products on the market include the Makeup Mitty and Face Halo. Purchasing a few and then washing them with your weekly load of laundry is sure to minimize your environmental impact.
TOOTHBRUSHES
Ever thought about where your plastic toothbrush goes when you replace it? Plastic toothbrushes are made out of petroleum, a material that requires a great amount of energy to process. It is also non-biodegradable, taking approximately one million years to break down. During this process, harmful toxins are released into the environment. If you’re using an electric toothbrush, you’re engaging in all of the harmful effects of a plastic toothbrush plus continuously using toxic batteries that often end up in landfills. All in all, plastic toothbrushes are not the way to go if you’re trying to be eco-friendly. Luckily, alternatives exist to keep your teeth clean without costing the environment. The most popular and arguably most eco-friendly toothbrush option is the bamboo toothbrush. Bamboo toothbrush handles are made entirely of bamboo, which is 100 percent biodegradable. The bristles are made from nylon-4, a material that takes much less time to break down than nylon-6, the material used to make plastic toothbrush bristles. Bamboo plants also grow quickly, without the need for fertilizers or pesticides,
APRIL 2019 23
leaving virtually no negative side effects for the plant to be harvested. Aside from the eco-friendly factors that bamboo toothbrushes hold, they are also known to be naturally antimicrobial. This means that you don’t have to worry about bacteria growing on your toothbrush and it can be replaced less often than a typical plastic toothbrush. Another option is to go the recycled route. Companies like Preserve make toothbrushes from recycled yogurt containers and allow you to send your used toothbrushes back to them for repurposing. If you prefer to buy locally while supporting those in need, Bogobrush is a Detroitbased company that makes their toothbrushes from compostable bioplastic. They opted to use this material instead of bamboo to eliminate the need for an offshore supplier. For every toothbrush purchased from Bogobrush, they give one to a person in need.
added environmental bonus—all of their products come in 100 percent recyclable and refillable aluminum bottles. For your first order, you’re sent a bottle of the product plus a pump. When you’re ready to reorder, simply select “no pump.” You’ll be sent a seemingly “new” bottle of shampoo or conditioner, which is really just a bottle that has been sent back by another customer and refilled by Plaine. Switch over the pump, send back your empty bottles and they’ll take care of the rest—from sanitizing and cleaning the bottles, to refilling them and sending them to someone else. If you choose not to reorder, no worries—recycling the bottles requires less energy than original
to a Lush store, you’re even gifted a free face mask. Lush is one of many brands that offer shampoo bars, a bottle-less alternative to traditional shampoo and conditioner. Another benefit to shampoo bars is that they contain no water. This means that they are more concentrated than bottled shampoo and conditioner, whose first ingredient is typically water. Because of this, you’ll use less each time you wash your hair and the bars will last longer than bottles.
production. Aluminum itself is a material that can be recycled indefinitely with no loss in quality, unlike plastic which degrades in quality each time it is recycled and eventually ends up useless and in a landfill.
In our society, we’re so used to buying what’s most readily available that we don’t even consider the harmful environmental effects many of our everyday products carry. It can be difficult, confusing and sometimes costly to take the eco-friendly route. Not to mention, it is nearly impossible to accomplish overnight. Educating yourself and others on the negative impacts that so many products hold is the first step in becoming a more conscious consumer. From there, choose the products that make the most sense for you and your lifestyle, and swap out other items over time. Your body and the environment will thank you.
SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER
If laid out flat, the number of plastic shampoo and conditioner bottles that end up in landfills every year could fill 1,164 football fields.5 An easy way to reduce your contribution to this mass amount of plastic waste is by buying shampoo and conditioner in bulk sizes. One-liter bottles of shampoo and conditioner can last many months, as opposed to having to purchase multiple bottles per year. It’s a bigger price tag up front, but typically allows you to save money in the long run and is a small step toward minimizing your carbon footprint. Some hair care companies allow you to refill the bottles you already have when you run out of product. Plaine Products offer vegan, cruelty-free and chemicalfree hair and body products with an 5“Zero Waste Shampoo & Conditioner for Waste-Free, Sustainable Locks,” Sustainable Jungle.
24 MODA
Another brand that is paying attention to packaging for their hair and body care items is Lush Cosmetics. About 35 percent of Lush’s products are sold completely “naked,” meaning no packaging and no waste. Other products are sold in recycled plastic containers, which are BPA-free and can be reused, recycled or returned to a Lush store for recycling. When you return five empty, clean containers
While the packaging that is used for shampoo and conditioner leads to a mass amount of plastic waste, the major environmental risk involving hair care products is the release of chemicals into water. Most shampoos contain sodium laureth sulfate, which not only strips hair of its natural oils but is also extremely harmful to animals that drink the water that this chemical ends up in. Other common chemicals in shampoo and conditioner such as ammonium chloride and methylchloroisothiazolinone have been proven toxic and even carcinogenic. No matter what brand or form of shampoo and conditioner you prefer, do our waterways a favor and choose a sulfate-free option.
FASHION
H I DDEN GEMS NATALIE BURNS PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANNIKA IDE DIRECTED BY ASHLEY MACKENS, FASHION EDITOR
APRIL 2019 25
APRIL 2019 27
28 MODA
APRIL 2019 29
30 MODA
FASHION
32 MODA
T H E OG FASHIONISTAS AR E BACK BY MARTHA DANIELS, FASHION WRITER MARTHA DANIELS PHOTOGRAPHED BY OWEN DESAI
The girls with a passion for fashion are in the spotlight again, taking the fashion and beauty industry by storm. The Bratz dolls were a group of young high school girls by the names of Jasmine, Chloe, Sasha and Jade. At the time of their creation, these dolls were fashion icons—both in real life and in the Bratz world. Many children were not allowed to play with Bratz dolls as parents disapproved of their revealing clothing, bold makeup and sassy disposition. The dolls’ large lips, tiny noses and tight clothing turned many mothers and fathers away from purchasing them. Today, however, their signature looks are right on trend. In the beginning of 2019, makeup artist James Charles posted a video recreating a Bratz photograph posted by @monsterlool, a popular Instagram personality who re-styles Bratz dolls and shares the creations online. This then created the burgeoning YouTube sensation: the Bratz Challenge. Makeup artists and fashionistas from around the globe are beginning to copy the looks made by people like @monsterlool, making this trend one of the most talked about this year.
What makes this craze so popular is how the outfits and makeup are actually in style and not outdated. They mimic most of what celebrities and influencers are wearing. The Bratz dolls are no stranger to taking risks, and with a modern take, they have become the ultimate style icon. This portrayal is done in three ways: makeup, clothing and color scheme. Their makeup is nothing too bold, in fact, it is rather simple. They rock monochrome eyeshadows, bold brows and a muted lip color. The face is then tied together with a fair amount of highlighter—every makeup lover’s best friend. By not having extravagant makeup, many fans can copy the look easily. Their clothing, the aspect of Bratz dolls that sets them apart, comes next. The key to their signature look is mixing textures and styles. They often match mesh with fur or linen with leather. The combination of soft and hard brings theater into play. Some of the dolls are styled in an expensive manner, but others could easily showcase simple street style. Finally, the third aspect is the color schemes used in the Instagram posts.
Most of the photos are very cohesive, sticking to the same palette of baby pink and blue contrasted against white and black. These colors automatically give of the feel of a fresh, cool aura. While many parents saw the Bratz dolls to be a bad influence on their young children, they are a diverse group of young entrepreneurs. Each girl in the group came from a different ethnic background and had their unique set of traits and interests. Together the girls started their own fashion magazine—called, of course, Bratz. From there they started their own band and fashion label. In reality, they lived everyone’s dream. Keep that alive by not only recreating their look, but also their vibe. For major Bratz inspo, look no further than these Instagram accounts. @monsterlool @officalbratz @vinylbabyz @martincantos To shop the Bratz style, check out these shops: Dolls Kill Princess Polly
APRIL 2019 33
FASHION
H & M: WI LLI N G & S USTA I N ABLE BY JULIANNE CORNELL, CONTRIBUTING WRITER H&M, the second-largest global clothing retailer and a strong head in the fast-fashion industry, launched its first eco-friendly clothing collection, The Conscious Exclusive Collection, in 2013.1 They have since continued to release new editions of the collection. H&M designers use eco-friendly tools and materials including recycled polyester, wood, paper, cashmere and down, among many others.2 Sustainability generally aims to use recycled materials rather than natural resources. According to Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability at H&M, “Sustainability is everything we do as a company.” H&M is working to change the materials used in their clothing and make major improvements throughout the company itself. Gedda shares, “When we define sustainability, we always take a long-term vision of the business, so we use the resources not only in a way to meet the demand of present generations, but also future generations.”3 Their most recent edition of the Conscious Collection includes 32 pieces of womenswear, lingerie and accessories ranging in a variety of prices. There are several tops, blouses and even young children’s clothes available within the line. Many of the colors are natural earth tones and the designs are simple and chic. Pricewise, the clothing is relatively similar to 1 Barry Samaha, “How H&M Is Striving to Become a Sustainable Fashion Brand,” Forbes, June 8, 2018. 2 “About,” H&M Group. 3 Ibid.
34 MODA
that of their regular clothes: fashionforward yet affordable. Overall, all of the clothing is extremely similar to their normal pieces—the difference is the sustainable material used. Along with H&M’s creation of a completely eco-friendly clothing line each year, they have also made a conscious effort to add sustainability
into their brand. The website includes a section on sustainability with four subcategories that help customers learn more about how to become eco-friendly. The Sustainability Report is something they launch annually to summarize the work and progress they have made. The Vision and Strategy section includes more information on their goals and efforts toward becoming more sustainable. The Sustainable Fashion section includes information about their Conscious Collection and how they have made an effort to create clothing and fashion that is eco-friendly. Their final section, Recycling and Garment Care, has advice on how to recycle and care for your clothes. H&M also releases sustainable news and articles on their website to help customers learn more about the topic. Additionally, they have gone so far as to create an entirely new website dedicated to their sustainability. The website includes helpful resources, information about their brand and, of course, their Sustainability Report. H&M has not only been a leading
force in sustainable fashion, but they are also setting goals for themselves as well. By 2020, they hope to have all the cotton in their range come from sustainable sources. By 2040 at the latest, they hope to set the goal of becoming climate positive across their entire value chain.4 H&M is physically creating a change through their clothing and fashion, but also creating awareness among the fashion community. This is more than what most large clothing companies can say. Many large clothing companies make no effort to be eco-friendly. In contrast, H&M has gone above and beyond to make it an integral part of their company and brand. As a globally powerful company, H&M is one of the first major clothing brands to make an effort to be sustainable and provide eco-friendly clothing. As a result, they are paving the way for other companies to hopefully begin to create sustainable lines. It is clear that they are a leading force in the industry and with a reliable, affordable, eco-friendly clothing line they demonstrate the importance of sustainability in fashion today. 4
Ibid.
APRIL 2019 35
LIFESTYLE
A LETTER F RO M A F RIEND BY BELLA MANDARINO, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR
Dear Readers, I have met most of you in some way, shape or form, but I thought I would formally introduce myself. My name is Anxiety. Many people don’t like me. I can be a bit overwhelming when I ask a lot of questions, picking at your brain for answers that don’t exist. I’m sorry, but I just can’t help it. There are many things that I don’t know about the world, and I just want to know it all! I want to know what will happen tomorrow, and the next day, and the next—but no one seems to know the answers. I know I can be annoying. I pester you with the same idea over and over again. I guess I don’t want you to let go of the past. Sometimes I make people sad. They cry when I’m
36 MODA
around and I feel so guilty because I never mean to make anyone upset. The truth is, a lot of people only see the bad side of me. My reputation is stale, but I want you to think of it in a new way: you may not actually want to get rid of me. I have a few nice things to offer. For one, I can help you be more cautious. With me around, I’ll always make sure you think through your actions. We can avoid accidents, avoid saying something mean to someone we love and avoid getting ourselves into a bad situation. If you hang out with me, I can make you work really hard. You can be focused and dedicated to the things that matter, like your future career or your wonderful friendships. If you get to know me, you’ll see that
I can help you become organized, efficient and reliable at work. People will always trust that you’ve gotten your tasks done for the day. You could actually be my friend, instead of hating me. I know that I am not perfect, but I am not as mean as everyone says. I am not evil. I am beautiful, too. If you accept me, I will try and stay away when it’s not the right time and I’ll be there for you when it is. Together, I know we can still smell the roses, find the beauty in the world and take a breath of fresh air when we need it. I can help you become the best you, if you let me. Your friend, Anxiety
CULTURE
SP IL LING THE BE A N S O N FAIR TRAD E BY RAYNEE HAMILTON, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY ALLYSON KONZ
We all know the drill: it’s finals week and you are at the library way too late trying to cram for a big exam. What do you do when your 8 a.m. alarm goes off and you have to motivate yourself to crawl out of bed? For 64 percent of Americans their answer to this question is to reach for a cup of coffee.1 The most popular beverage in the world, over 450 million cups of coffee are consumed each day in the United States alone.2 It is an integral part of our culture. Our obsession with aesthetic coffee shops and the multimillion dollar artisanal coffee industry alone are proof that we care strongly about how we drink our coffee. But the most important things about our coffee is often overlooked: the coffee beans. You might notice that some coffee brands advertise themselves as “fair trade”—a title that is familiar to most people and brings to mind images of fair labor practices and economic gain for farmers. The reality is, however, that these assumptions we make about fair trade coffee are not entirely realistic. Often, they are informed by misconceptions we hold about the fair trade process. We all may recognize the fair trade label, but the details and intricacies of the process behind it are not as widely known. The practice of fair trade, as we know it today, establishes a minimum price which companies have to pay in exchange for coffee 1Chris Prentice, “Americans Are Drinking a Daily Cup of Coffee at the Highest Level in Six Years: Survey,” Reuters, March 17, 2018. 2Carly Ledbetter, “How Much Coffee Do Americans Drink Every Day?,” HuffPost, December 7, 2017.
beans from small coffee farmers. To be called fair trade, a farm must be a democratic cooperative and meet certain wage standards for its workers. This practice started in the 1980s as a group of Dutch activists’ response to a drop in the market price of coffee.3 Coffee exports are a significant part of Latin American economy, meaning price drops have the ability to destabalize entire countries. Before fair trade was established, rapid fluctuations in the market price of coffee beans could drive small farms out of business and put farmers’ livelihoods at risk. Put differently, fair trade was created to address the perceived failure of the western capitalist system to protect farmers and workers in less economically developed countries. Setting a price floor, which means that a product cannot be sold for less than a certain price, ensures the stability of the small farms that fair trade corporations work with. Because only companies that are run by democratically elected unions can be fair trade certified, fair trade laborers are able to play an active role in their career and are afforded better working conditions. Fair trade’s ability to protect farmers against market fluctuation has been undeniably beneficial for some. However, it is nonetheless unable to address certain economic issues that arise in the process of trade. Some economists argue fair trade does 3Michael Sarcauga, “History of Fair Trade,” World Fair Trade Organization, November 29, 2018.
not alleviate the causes of poverty but rather masks its symptoms. Their argument is that the fair trade model causes market oversupply, which in turn traps fair trade farmers in a dependant relationship with western corporations and lowers the global value of coffee for farmers who are not involved in fair trade.4 The current fair trade model is also unable to effectively help the people who are generally in the poorest sector of society—migrant farmers. Fair trade benefits small farm owners, but migrant workers lack the resources to own land and therefore cannot be part of a collective.5 Many economists and activists argue that the only holistic way to mitigate global economic inequality is to invest in infrastructure that would help improve job and educational choices for people in poorer countries.6 Fair trade is not a perfect solution, but it does alleviate trade inequality between western corporations and farmers. Fair trade has accomplished many of the goals it set out to achieve, including stabilizing the livelihood of many small farmers in less economically developed countries. Perhaps the largest achievement fair trade can claim is that it has made western consumers more aware of the relationship between the products that they purchase and the workers who produce them. 4Larissa Rowe, “Buying Fair Trade? There Are Better Ways to Help the Poor,” HuffPost, December 7, 2017. 5Colleen Haight, “The Problem with Fair Trade Coffee,” Stanford Social Innovation Review. 6Bruce Wydick, “10 Reasons Fair-Trade Coffee Doesn’t Work,” HuffPost, January 28, 2016.
APRIL 2019 37
FASHION
O LD CLOTHE S , N EW L I FE BY KATIE HERRICK, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER INDI POOLE, KATIE HERRICK AND KATE FULSHAW PHOTOGRAPHED BY KATIE HERRICK AND INDI POOLE “Cute top! Where did you get it?” The expected response is some brand-name store, maybe Target, or Madewell and Urban Outfitters if they’re a big spender. The answer that always seems to shock, however, is the thrift store.
Not a crafty person? Second-hand stores are filled with amazing basics that you can wear off-the-rack, no sewing or customization needed. Plus, there are thrift stores that just sell brand-name used clothing if you only wear labels. There is something for everyone.
You found something that cute at the thrift store?! It’s the thought that runs through everyone’s head, and it couldn’t be more incorrect. Why is it that we expect the thrift store to only be full of old pieces your great aunt would wear and some shoes lined with fungus?
The best part of thrifting for some shoppers is the hunt or the feeling of victory, but for me, it is the story behind each piece. How did this dress get here? Why did the owner get rid of it? What memories does it carry? Each inch of fabric holds secrets only the garment will ever know.
Not only is the thrift store more economically friendly and better for your wallet, but it is also insanely fun. Each item is unique and involves a hunt for the right size and the right style. The store offers something for each person: yes, your great aunt, but also you, your partner, your mom, hell, even Ariana Grande (if she didn’t wear designer.)
While thrifting I like to make stories for the pieces I find. The mom jeans I plan on cutting into shorts were worn in the 90s by someone’s mom when they found out they would be a grandma. The Old Navy dress with the pleats was worn on a first date. The professional blazer was worn to a job interview that scored them the job. The possibilities are endless.
Gone are the days of needing to buy everything brand-new. The earth is overflowing with tons of fabric and millions of clothing pieces already made and ready to be recycled. Stop by any second-hand store and it is more than easy to find something your style or something you can recreate to be your own.
Pair your new piece with something brand-new for a look that is unique to you and disguised as store-bought. Wear all thrifted pieces and shock those who ask where you got them. Save money, look good and be kind to the earth. There is so much to love and value about the thrift store experience giving a new, fresh life to vintage pieces.
With a simple snip and hem you have a brand new dress at the perfect length for you. With some basic embroidery you’ve made fun jeans that cost way less than brand-name and are exactly what you want. Plus, when people ask, you can say you made them.
38 MODA
Thrift stores in Madison: ReThreads Dig & Save GoodWill Plato’s Closet Agrace Thrift Store UpShift
APRIL 2019 39
40 MODA
WATCHFUL EYES art direction by geordon wollner
featuring original designs by austin morrow ciara havlik photographed by max goldberg | assisted by annika ide creative direction by reilly koch + geordon wollner makeup by maria dayneko
This collection is entitled Watchful Eyes. It takes a look at feminine queer identity and the ways in which the media regulates that identity. The heart motif that is present throughout the collection is representative of queer identity and the faces are representative of the overbearing media presence in queer lives. My goal for this collection was to show not only my own queer experience, but also the experiences of others. I felt that this could allow me to fight against the popular media’s very limited representation of queer people. This representation is achieved through collaborations within the collection. The textiles, styling, makeupand photography are all done with full creative authority given to other people. I believe that in that way, I can represent many different people and allow the collection to become more representative of a greater community and go beyond my own limited experiences. - austin morrow student designer + artist
42 MODA
are you looking?
WATCHFUL EYES APRIL 2019 43
44 MODA
WATCHFUL EYES
look closer
what do you see?
APRIL 2019 47
CULTURE
FOOD JUSTICE FOR ALL BY ALLYSON KONZ, CULTURE STAFF WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY HAIDEE CHU, CULTURE EDITOR
A woman sits at her kitchen table, struggling to win the most strenuous stare-down of the month. Her stomach aches from hunger, but her eyes are fixed on her adversary: a mortgage bill. It’s not long before the overwhelming weight of financial pressure cripples her, and she sulks to bed; another night without dinner. This is one of the many observations Lydia Zepeda, UW Professor Emerita of consumer science, discovered in her “Hiding for Hunger” study. This woman’s story isn’t unique, however; many Americans struggle with food insecurity in their everyday lives.
48 MODA
Food insecurity is the lack of consistent access to enough food for an active, healthy life. According to Feeding America, it was estimated that one in eight Americans were food insecure in 2017.1 That is roughly 40 million Americans—12 million of whom are children. It isn’t an isolated issue; it’s a complex, systemic problem that demands the attention of elected officials and everyday citizens alike. While food insecurity may seem like a problem for only individuals with a low income, the reality is far different. Zepeda’s study shows that low-income 1“Understand Food Insecurity,” Feeding America.
individuals are not the only ones who struggled with food insecurity. Her qualitative study found that many middle-income individuals struggle with food insecurity, and it reflects in their budgeting choices. Zepeda says one participant of the study would skip meals and eat low-quality foods in order to pay the rent and bills on time. “You can’t tell the electric company or the gas company, ‘I’m not going to pay my bill.’ You can’t tell your doctor, ‘I’m not going to pay for my medical care,’” Zepeda explains. “But what people can do is decide to eat ramen or skip a meal.”
Many Americans, including those in the middle class, live paycheckto-paycheck. This is because many people do not have a “rainy day fund” for emergencies or unexpected problems, Zepeda shares. When someone experiences an emergency or a pay cut, cutting food is sometimes the only way to make payments on time. Many of the people Zepeda interviewed also hid their food insecurity from the people whom they were closest with, such as their roommates, spouses and family. “I was not prepared for how emotional people would get when they started talking about this,” Zepeda says. “They blame themselves, not all of them, but many of them, and I think it really shocked me the extent to which the society has been so successful at blaming people for their own poverty.” At the same time individuals struggle with food insecurity, institutional barriers exists to perpetuate it. Food deserts—neighborhoods or communities that do not have access to a grocery store in a one-mile radius— discriminate against people who cannot afford cars or those who live in neighborhoods with inadequate public transportation. Natural and institutional barriers alike can keep individuals from accessing grocery stores. Highways and rivers can block off access; as can infrequent bus stops or routes that don’t go near grocery stores. Organizations like the Madison Food Policy Council are working to mitigate these problems in Madison. The council develops policies and programs to promote equitable access to healthy food; it also creates opportunities to support neighborhood-based food access projects. The Healthy Retail Access Program, for example, provides funding to ‘brick and mortar’ businesses that need help building inventory or entering a market where previous food retailers have left.
MFPC director George Reistad says one of these grants went to support Luna’s Groceries, a grocery store that opened up in the Allied-Dunn Marsh neighborhood, an area in Madison that has been a food desert for the last decade. The city is also building the Madison Public Market to increase food accessibility and promote entrepreneurship for underserved communities. It hopes to rebuild local food economies while also supporting local farmers and vendors. The market is expected to open by 2021. In preparation for the market’s opening, the city-funded Market Ready program is providing 30 entrepreneurs the opportunity to receive training to be a Public Market vendor. When an initial 80 people applied to the program, Reistad was excited to see the diversified demographics of applications, which is a stark contrast to the white majority in Madison. Among the entrepreneurs that are currently participating in the program, 83 percent are people of color, 63 percent are women and 33 percent are first-generation immigrants. Reistad hopes the public market will be a hub of cultural diversity and inclusivity that invites everyone to buy food and goods from local vendors. “We saw this as kind of the perfect pairing of a vehicle for economic mobility, but also something that would really tie into the culture of the folks living in Madison that we don’t necessarily always hear from,” Reistad explains. Ultimately, The MPM hopes to eliminate pressures of elitism and high prices that comes with the Dane County Farmers Market, one of the country’s most mature of its kinds. To some, the DCFM is a symbol of exclusivity and trendiness that deters some shoppers away, Reistad said. But he also noted that these perceptions
about farmers’ markets and the local food movement are harmful to small farmers and vendors who depend on customer support. Reistad says that the Madison Public Market will be a complementary addition to the DCFM. The public market will not only hopefully relieve some of the demand for vendors trying to secure a spot in the DCFM (it’s a three to four year waiting process, according to Reistad), but also create a diversified market. The UW-Madison chapter of Slow Food is another organization hoping to provide equal access to food. Slow Food aims to relieve food injustice and promote food sovereignty by providing community meals twice a week. Their meals average around $5 and include locally sourced food to provide fresh ingredients and support local farmers. Slow Food also offers a Pay-It-Forward program where people can either donate or recieve a free meal. Slow Food’s South Madison codirector Libby Schnepf claims food justice is more than just the food itself, however. “I thought justice was limited to political or humanitarian efforts, but when I came to school here and just noticed the overwhelming food justice culture and food culture in general, I saw the perfect intersection between the two,” Schnepf shares. “It was a perfect combination of two passions that I had that I didn’t know could go together.” Food insecurity isn’t an issue that can be fixed overnight. However, affordable meals, food grants and a public market are just some of the ways that Madison is working toward promoting food justice.
APRIL 2019 49
CULTURE
CHIN A’ S G RI P O N T I BE T: HOW WATE R PL AYS A R O LE IN G EO P O LIT ICS BY ARIANA KING, CULTURE STAFF WRITER
In 2008, a group of Tibetan monks set off the last mass protests against the Chinese government. The monks, along with a good portion of the Tibetan population, were protesting for the right to cultural and religious freedom in addition to independence from China, but their efforts proved futile.1 Since then, the Chinese government has only grown increasingly repressive in recent years and refuses to give Tibet more autonomy.2 China asserts sovereignty over the region on the claim that it has belonged to the Middle Kingdom since the mid-13th century.3 China annexed Tibet in 1950-1951 under Mao Zedong, so it is legally under Chinese rule. However, the way in which the Chinese government annexed Tibet is not deemed legitimate by Tibetan people.4 Many Tibetans and sympathizers reject China’s sovereignty claim and argue that China’s invasion of an independent Tibet in the 1950s did not give them the right to rule the region because it has been ruled by various groups throughout history.5 But underlying the political tension between the two sides is a fundamental reason China has refused to loosen its grip on Tibet—survival. Carl Gershman, “The fate of freedom in Tibet hinges on democracy in China,” The Washington Post. 2 “Q&A: China and the Tibets,” BBC. https://www. bbc.com/news/world-asia-pacific-14533879 3 Ibid. 4 Jean-Pierre Lehmann & Nina Ninkovic, “Tibet and 21st Century Water Wars,” The Globalist. 5 Ibid. 1
50 MODA
The glaciers of the Tibetan Plateau are the largest freshwater source for almost half the world’s population; the water flows through some of the most important rivers in Asia, such as the Brahmaputra, the Yangtze, the Yellow, the Mekong, the Ganges and the Indus.6 China is one of the driest nations on Earth; as water becomes more scarce from climate change, it has all the more reason to tighten its grip on the greatest water source in the world.7 Tibet is also home to valuable riches like precious metals and rare minerals necessary to drive China’s rapid economic growth.8 China’s tight grip on Tibet therefore has everything to do with survival—in more ways than one.9 Not only does access to water through control of Tibet ensure the continued existence of the Chinese race, but the rich resources of Tibet are also vital to the Chinese government’s needs both domestically and internationally. Domestically, China relies on Tibet’s water and natural resources for economic growth that continues to keep the majority of the population happy.10 Without continued or, at the very least, sustained economic prosperity, the Chinese government is Denise Thompson, “The Threat to Tibet’s Fresh Water,” Tibet Nature Environmental Conservation Network. 7 “China, Tibet, and the Strategic Power of Water,” Circle of Blue. 8 Ibid. 9 Robert Kaplan, “The Geography of Chinese Power,” in Revenge of Geography, (New York: Random House Trade Paperbacks, 2013), 188227. 10 Ronald Machoian, “China and its strategic environment, part one” (lecture, UW–Madison International Studies 401, Madison, WI, March 14, 2019). 6
in danger of losing its legitimacy from a growing population that expects and demands a middle-class lifestyle.11 Internationally, control of the Tibetan peninsula gives the Chinese government lots of bargaining power in its relations with other East Asian nations whose fresh water comes from Tibet.12 By controlling Tibet, China can indirectly dictate who gets water by building dams to divert more water to its own population. This often has negative effects for other nations who also rely on the Tibetan glaciers for water.13 Control over Tibet thus provides not only economic security for the Chinese people and continued legitimacy for the government, but also increased international power and influence. China’s desperate need for freshwater is threefold. They need it to provide for a growing population, sustain economic growth for the purpose of securing political legitimacy and increase their international bargaining power. China therefore has no incentive to grant Tibet independence even as international actors continue to criticize it for its harsh repression against the Tibetan population. At the end of the day, China’s unrelenting grip on Tibet has nothing to do with cultural differences or ideals of freedom, independence and liberty. It has only to do with survival, and the increasing concern of water scarcity that threatens it. Ibid. Ibid. 13 Ibid. 11
12
LIFESTYLE
R ET HIN K W H AT YO U DRI N K BY CLAIRE YOUNG, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY JACOBS Fact: bottled water is not “safer” than your tap—especially in the US, where water is federally regulated. Breaking it down, it’s simple; bottled water manufacturers only have to test for bacteria once a week, whereas city tap water is screened for contaminants over 100 times a month. That’s nearly 25 times more often. So, in a way, tap water is 2,500 times more likely to be cleaner than your bottled water. It is also uncertain where your bottled water is actually coming from. Would you be as willing to hand over a couple dollars for your bottle if you knew it came from the same source as your tap? Scrutiny and concern surround dozens of bottle manufacturing companies. One such example is Poland Springs; the company is currently under investigation for falsely claiming their water comes from a natural spring, when it actually is sourced from a manmade well.1 Yikes. Water aside, the plastic used to make the bottles can be a greater risk 1“Poland Spring Accused of Defrauding Consumers by Peddling Water from ‘phony’ Springs,” NBCNews.com.
than the water itself. Most singleuse bottles are made of a plastic containing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) which poses a minimal threat when used once. However, as you reuse them—as many of us do—the commercial plastic begins to break down. This causes chemicals like diethylhydroxylamine (DEHA) and benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP—which are linked to the formation of cancer and hormone disruption—to seep into your water.2 Even after you dispose of the bottle and think you’re free of harm, a whole new health issue comes into play. Only about 30 percent of people recycle their plastics, leaving 70 percent of the world’s plastic to sit in landfills for centuries. It gets worse! Since plastic does not break down naturally, toxic chemicals disperse into the atmosphere as the bottles decompose. In the United States alone, around “1,500 plastic bottles are discarded every second.”3 Seventy 2Rick LeBlanc, “How Long Will It Take That Bag of Trash to Decompose in a Landfill?,” The Balance Small Business. 3“1,500 Plastic Bottles Are Used in the U.S. Every Second––Holey. Moley,” Green Sheep Water.
percent of those are sent to landfills. So each day we send almost 91 million bottles to sit, accumulate and pour chemicals into our air. “But…my tap water tastes bad.” Differing tastes can be due to the minerals in the water itself. Using a filter is an easy way to remove impurities from your tap water. Not to mention, filtering tap water is exactly what bottling companies do when they bottle municipal water. You can buy a filter that attaches directly to your faucet or in the form of a pitcher. In the US we have an abundance of clean, reliable drinking sources that we consistently overlook in favor of bottled water. Water is a necessity of life. In a world where billions live with water insecurity, Americans are lucky to live in a place where clean water is available at the turn of their tap. When you have the choice between tap or bottled, tap is always the better option. Don’t ignore the privilege— take advantage of it!
APRIL 2019 51
ARTS
A F RE S H TA K E O N FE ST I VA L S BY SAMAAYA JAYAMAHA, ARTS STAFF WRITER PHOTO CREDITS: AFROFEST.COM AND EDM.ORG
In the humid August air, tucked in the sticky mud of the Catskill mountains, 400,000 people gathered for the very first Woodstock music festival in Bethel, New York, 1969. With headliners such as Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin and the tagline “3 Days of Peace and Music,” many of the attendees were young hippies who were desperate to escape the materialistic society they were constantly surrounded by, in addition to the tensions presented by the Vietnam War that so many vehemently opposed. With activist spirits running rampant and a unifying attitude of peace filling the air, the Woodstock Festival turned out to be one of the most memorable rock festivals of all time and the symbol of a generation. Decades have passed since then; music festivals across the United States and beyond don’t necessarily carry the same messages and weight as they did during Woodstock. Festivals today often carry a negative connotation of running rampant with sexual assault, drug overdoses and even cases of cultural appropriation when people’s costumes step out of line. Furthermore, attendees pay to see specific artists, staking out
52 MODA
spots hours beforehand instead of wandering between stages to discover new artists. The hippie generation united at Woodstock under ideas of peace and activism, while younger generations today can likely all agree that festivals nowadays serve more as a spectacle than anything. The backlash large festivals such as Coachella and Bonnaroo have faced has created a yearning to discover a new take on festivals as a whole. The political climate in the United States is equally—if not more—divisive than what it was in 1969, and the activist spirit of many young people remains the same, paving the way for change and carrying the country into a new direction. With this in mind, music and art festivals have grown significantly more specific to target niche audiences and in turn create more inclusive spaces where artists of all identities are granted a platform.
AFROPUNK
For instance, this Brooklyn, NY festival showcases music, art, fashion and film produced by black artists, many of whom are almost entirely disregarded in the mainstream. The celebration began in 2005 and has since spread
across the globe to Atlanta, Paris, London and Johannesburg.
BLUEDOT FESTIVAL
Similarly, in Cheshire, England, the Bluedot festival is a celebration beyond just the arts. Hosted at the Jodrell Bank Observatory, this venue has been celebrating for 50 years—since the moon landing—and features talks from prominent physicists, astronauts and researchers in between concerts.
A BIT ON THE WOODSTOCK REVIVAL
Michael Lang, one of the original founders of Woodstock, is currently hatching plans to revive Woodstock with a fresh 50th anniversary celebration. He is excited to unite a multigenerational audience of thousands who all have the same unifying passion for activism. “We want this to be more than just coming to a concert,” he said in an interview with the New York Times. “And hopefully a lot of the bands will become part of this effort to get people to stand up and make themselves heard, to get out and vote. And if they don’t have a candidate that represents their feelings, to find one—or to run themselves.”
ARTS
I N DE F EN S E O F SU B U R B IA BY MADELINE RASMUSSEN, ARTS STAFF WRITER If you grew up in America, you can probably envision the stereotypical suburban city. A row of identical split levels all in different shades of beige, a strange and desolate commercial area with every chain restaurant known to mankind, the only local art being the mass produced wall decorations seen at TJ Maxx. While this is certainly an exaggeration, it cannot be denied that many of us have a love/hate relationship with the ‘burbs. As someone who grew up in a suburban area, I can definitely attest to the angsty, and quite frankly, bleak feelings associated with living in an area where the most cultured you might ever feel is when you are perusing the poetry section at Barnes and Noble. It is fair to say that most city dwellers boast about the diversity of experience in an urban area, and there are those that take pride in the rustic charm of their rural town. Yet many shy away from defending the often unsightly middle child. Even so, the common narratives of suburban life have been the origin of so much artistic inspiration. Countless films have attempted to make the bland feel extraordinary, as if the
idea of domestication were fraught with complexities. For example, The Virgin Suicides is a story about five sisters and their tragically short lives as seen through the lens of the boys who live next door. Set in a 1970s Michigan suburb, The Virgin Suicides questions the sterility and safety of a confined space as the five sisters are suffocated with the boredom of their dull, residential lives. The film perfectly encapsulates the feeling of being entirely unimpressed with your circumstances while knowing that there is something far more magical or grand just beyond your reach.
Yet to say that nothing of cultural value originates in the suburbs would be totally false. The off-beat vocals and indie inspired sound of Midwest emo bands sprung from groups that originated in the suburbs of Illinois and other major Midwest metropolitan areas. Bands like American Football, Cap’n Jazz and Promise Ring had a profound influence on music and offered a more palpable sound than their hardcore predecessors. Much like suburban youth, there is far more angst yet somehow less edge. It is sweet, emotional, yet urgent with its whiny vocals and polyrhythms.
Conversely, other artists choose to embrace the humdrum and critique the value that is placed on an overly lavish lifestyle. Lorde’s debut album Pure Heroine is chock-full of references to the lifestyles of suburban teens. Instead of ruminating on the shortcomings and disappointments of commonplace activities, Lorde romanticizes them and gives gratitude for the freedom to do nothing. She defines the suburban condition as something earned by blood, a circumstance that you are born into much like royalty. Unlike royalty, however, the riches and opulence are of the middle class variety.
No matter the disposition of the artist in question, whether they love the suburbs or feel resentful, it is fair to say that the ‘burbs are an iconic part of American society. While they are a symbol of over commercialization, they can also serve as a symbol of prosperity, and many artists have illuminated the undervalued aspects of suburban life. As much as I like to poke fun at my hometown, I can still feel nostalgic for the angsty teenage years, the late night drives and the boredom that incited so much creativity.
GREG STIMAC
JULIE BLACKMON APRIL 2019 53
Photo by Sharon Vanorny
FREE ART NOW SEE WORK BY TODAY'S ARTISTS 54 MODA
FREE ADMISSION 227 STATE STREET mmoca.org