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Meg Rotter Editor in Chief Claire Hornacek Deputy Editor Alexandra Folino Art Director Victoria Fok WUD Publications Committee Director Jim Rogers WUD Publications Committee Advisor Deshawn McKinney WUD President
DECEMBER 2016 Alix DeBroux Alexa Carlson, Jenn Chen, Lauren Chung, Associate Art Director Amelia Faist, Sarah Friedland, Caitlin Gronski Cassie Hurwitz, Briana Lerner, Claudia Prevete Claire Grummon Staff Writers Marissa Haegele Photography Directors Alexandra Folino, Samantha Georgson Taylor Palmby, Ashleigh Perry Jameson Zaballos Meg Rotter, Maddy Selner Web Master Contributing Writers Ben Golden Alessandra Gaglio, Audrey Hansa Arts Curator Pfanique Hill, Janaé Hu, Ashley Ingbretson, Samantha Krusic, Leah Levy, Cecilia Mecozzi Kenzie Bryant Arissa Milton, Kynala Phillips, Eneale Pickett, Special Projects Designer Kaila Ruppel, Maddy Sellner, Zashary Torres Francisco Valezquez, James Viall Kelsey Daykin Kayla Wasserman, Dequandray White Reilly Koch Qian Yi, Jameson Zaballos Creative Directors Models Alexa Carlson Hannah Bourgault, Lisa Heverly Fashion Editor Art Darby Hoffman James Arbaje, Jenn Chen Lifestyle Editor Amelia Faist, Alexandra Folino Marissa Haegele, Claire Grummon Haley Nippert Meredith Johnson, Victoria Lee, Moriah Ziman Culture Editor Photography Margaret Duffey Maisie Alsteen, Thien Huong Arts Editor Cassie Hurwitz, Michael Klimmeck Claudia Prevete, Jayla Porter-Young Jameson Zaballos Ashleigh Perry, Cailee Schmieding Men’s Editor Maddy Selner, Jaunte Willis Makeup and Hair Anna Olla Eva-Delilah Wieland Special Thanks To: Special Events Coordinators Free People Madison, MMoCA Metro Transit - Madison Taylor Palmby Paul Mitchell The School Madison Marketing and Social Media Liason Revel
on the
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ASHLEY INGBRETSON PHOTOGRAPHED BY MORIAH ZIMAN MAKEUP | MICHAEL KLIMMECK CLOTHING | FREE PEOPLE MADISON
se u o h Coffee s n o i t Reflec From my cozy table that’s nestled into the way back of Fair Trade Coffee House, time seems to be moving a little bit slower. While finals and group project deadlines loom ahead in the not-so-distant future, I can’t help daydreaming about my upcoming trips to New York City and Costa Rica, and remembering my favorite college moments.
Snuggled up in my cable knit sweater while enjoying a delicious dark roast, I can’t help think about all that’s changed in the four years since I started at the university. The people who I barely knew my freshman year have transformed into my favorite humans. The campus that once seemed to swallow me whole has become my hometown; a place that never ceases to reveal a new space to fall in love with.
time at UW, I don’t so much remember the stress that came from studying or the gift I got my sisterin-law. Instead, I remember the uncontrollable 3:00 a.m. laughter that comes from spending six hours creating a hypothetical app with a group of goofy J-schoolers, and singing (read: shouting) “All I Want for Christmas is You” in a dorm room filled with my pajama-clad floormates. So stress out, stay up late and don’t wash your hair for a week, but don’t forget to take a moment to create lasting college memories. Best,
Often, the time leading up to the holidays feels overly rushed, filled with projects, papers and the search for the perfect present. However, as I reflect on my
DECEMBER 2016 | 3
LIFESTYLE
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DECEMBER 2016 FASHION
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THE OUTFIT ALGORITHM Put the perfect outfit together in minutes
THE RISE AND FALL OF THE NASTY GALAXY What went wrong?
CULTURE
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REBELLING AGAINST AGEISM
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ENEALE PICKETT AND THE NECESSITY FOR DISCOMFORT
Retiree Rebels’ Mary Helen Conroy on ageism and staying active after retirement
Insert Apparel, intersectionality and breaking the cycle of oppression
MEN’S
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TRANSIT Last-minute, thrown-together going-out outfits meet the perpetual, nonstop motion of transit
FEATURED
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HIGH SHINE All that glitters is fit for festivities
ALL OF THE LIGHTS Embrace the night fever
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HUSTLE & BUSTLE: LAST MINUTE HOLIDAY SHOPPING The holidays are overwhelming, but gift shopping doesn’t have to be
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LOVE CHEAP THRILLS
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NEW BEAUTY LAUNCHES TO RUSH FOR
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SCRAMBLING FOR TIME: HAIR AND MAKEUP IN A HURRY
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HARNESSING YOUR HOLIDAY SPIRIT
Taking adrenaline rush to the extreme
FLUSH & SPARKLE Take advantage of your rosy glow, courtesy of the winter winds
Keep an eye out for these new products hitting the shelves in 2017
Have your sleep and look fab too!
Put that holly, jolly spirit to good use!
ART
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NYC POST-ELECTION PRESCRIBES HEALTHY DOSE OF POSITIVITY
From political devastation to artistic creation
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UN GIORNO ALLA GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA
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2016 WISCONSIN TRIENNIAL: A RUSH OF FRESH TALENT
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JON SILIGNAAVONG
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MEMORY TO POPULARITY: THE CHANGING PURPOSE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
A glance inside one of Rome’s not-so-ancient finds
An exhibition from artists near and far, right next door
Full-time student, part-time DJ
A Look at Technology vs. Tradition
UNTAPPED CITIES - MICHELLE YOUNG
BY CAITLIN GRONSKI, ARTS WRITER President-elect Donald Trump may have delivered his victory speech in his hometown of New York City, but this was one celebration that most of his fellow New York City natives rejected. Thousands of New Yorkers poured into the city’s streets on November 9, chanting “not my president” and “we reject the President-elect.”1 Most residents had their hearts set on a Former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton win. New York City, home to Clinton’s campaign headquarters, voted for her at a staggering 79 percent over Trump.2 Amidst broken hearts and shattered hometown pride, a very dark political cloud hung over the city. However, a few motivated individuals pushed past their melancholy to create innovative and inspiring artwork and projects around the city, bringing some much needed spirit back to the people of New York. Artist Matthew Chavez-Levee created an interactive project in which NYC commuters could scribble their postelection thoughts and reactions on brightly-colored Post-It notes. They were instructed to post the notes on the subway wall, creating a Rubik’s Cubeesque myriad of uplifting and reflective thoughts. Levee stationed himself in front of the exhibit, lending an ear to anyone who needed to vent, cry or just
needed a hug in the wake of the election results. The project, aptly named Subway Therapy, produced thousands of notes, ranging from witty to heartbreaking.3 Chavez refused to remove any of the messages, even those that he thought were offensive or spiteful. In an interview with the New York Times, Chavez said that he wanted the wall to be an open place that was a true reflection of people’s thoughts and feelings postelection.4 Chavez has continued the project at multiple other stations over the past couple of months, bringing together strangers and encouraging them to lift each other up.5 In another artistic display of positivity post-election, actress and United Nations Women Goodwill Ambassador Emma Watson hid Maya Angelou’s new book “Me and Mom and Me” in NYC subway stations. Each copy of the book included an uplifting note written by Watson herself. The act is part of a larger collaboration between Books On the Underground, an organization that encourages reading, and Watson’s feminist book club, Our Shared Self. After Trump’s victory was announced, Watson got in touch with Books On the Underground and initiated moving the project across the pond to the U.S.6 Although London-native
Watson couldn’t vote in the election, she used Twitter in the few weeks before the election to urge women to vote to better the future, not just for America, but for the world.7 Watson’s work as an activist inspired others to channel their frustration about the election in a productive way to help the world continue to move forward. Not all of the uplifting post-election efforts reached such a massive audience, but many still managed to make a lasting impact. NYC clothing store Voz hosted a post-election weaving therapy class in its store, open to the public free of charge. Attendees formed a circle in the store, attaching threads of wool to a spare garment rack in the middle of the room. The event was led by textile designer Cynthia Alberto. In an interview with the New York Times, Alberto explained how weaving has historically been used as a form of occupational therapy. Weaving offered the perfect opportunity to express pent-up anger and concerns in an artistic manner while simultaneously engaging the surrounding community.8 Each of these projects demonstrate how artistic expression has been utilized to continue critical conversation postelection and to inspire political activism in equally peaceful and heartening ways. Bacardi, Francesca. “Emma Watson Encourages Women to Vote in “Excruciating” U.S. Election: “You Have Real Power.” E! Online. 2016. 8 Green, Penelope. “Can Yoga Help Chase the Postelection Blues?” The New York Times. 2016. 7
Gold, Matea, Mark Berman, and Renae Merle. “ ‘Not My President’: Thousands Protest Trump in Rallies Across the U.S.” The Washington Post. 2016. 2 “2016 Election Results.” DNA Info. 2016. 1
Bender, Andrew. “New Yorkers Turn Feelings About Trump into Subway Art.” Forbes. 2016. 4 Rosenberg, Eli. “Manhattan Subway Passage Becomes Emotional Outlet After Election.” The New York Times. 2016. 5 Bender, Andrew. “New Yorkers Turn Feelings About Trump into Subway Art.” Forbes. 2016. 6 Ruth, Lyka. “Emma Watson Scatters Books Around NYC After Upsetting Donald Trump Win.” Morning News USA. 2016.. 3
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Hustle & Bustle:
LAST-MINUTE HOLIDAY SHOPPING BY LAUREN CHUNG, LIFESTYLE WRITER ART BY LISA HEVERLY The beginning of the holiday season is typically met with images of cozy nights by the fireplace, perfect, snowy evenings, decorative lights covering practically every surface in sight and opening presents. The reality, however, is that the holiday season also entails frantic studying, gallons of coffee and too many all-nighters. This overwhelming time makes it difficult to find presents for those moments everyone cherishes so deeply. However, there are several tips you can use to ensure you will be ready to take on any gift giving obstacle you encounter. If you are struggling to find a gift for your friend or a roommate, try putting together a gift bag of a few smaller things. Rather than searching endlessly for one perfect gift, give little treats such as their favorite candy and a fun holiday nail polish. Combining a few small items allows you both to enjoy the holiday spirits, without breaking the bank or a sweat. Alternatively, themed baskets or gift bags are another fun way to spice up your gift. My favorite to put together is a spa set. You can find deals on face masks, bath bombs, fuzzy socks, candles and more by visiting some local stores on State Street. Add these gifts to your decorative basket of choice and your gift is ready to go. 6 | DECEMBER 2016
Next, you need to shop for your momma. My go-to is always online shopping; it is fast, easy and can be delivered right to your doorstep in just a couple of days. From the comfort of your favorite study spot, you can pick out just about anything to surprise your mom. Check out Sephora’s website and browse their holiday gift sets. Their sets usually include multiple samples for your mom to try out, letting her discover exactly which products she prefers. The Sephora Favorites Perfume Sampler is a cult-favorite that includes 15 perfume samples and a voucher to redeem one full-sized bottle of fragrance. Sephora also has a gift set of their popular sheet masks (the “HOLY SHEET! set”) that would be a perfect one-click gift option for the mother with a great sense of humor. For an even more financially conscious option, check out Ulta or Nordstrom Rack’s beauty section.
has it all (not to mention their beloved Prime shipping). Don’t have an Amazon Prime membership? You can sign-up with a student membership and get access to a free trial just in time for the holiday shopping rush. To top it all off, stop by your local grocery store on the way home and pick up a case of his favorite beer to enjoy fireside over break.
Even more difficult than shopping for your mother is shopping for your father. The good thing about dads is that simple is usually the most effective method, and, once again, online shopping has your back when it comes to grabbing gifts on the go. From a new pair of golf gloves, to beer glasses, to an affordable yet high-quality watch from Daniel Wellington, Amazon
The holidays are a time of giving and loving, so don’t let the craziness of finals week stop you from doing just that. Shopping in a rush does not have to defeat you this year; give your presents with pride and rest easy knowing that you found the perfect gifts with the least amount of time and impact on your wallet.
If all else fails, there are a few handmade gifts that would be just as perfect to give, while spending little to no money. Mixed CDs are something that I, personally, think could never go out of style. Fill a CD with all of your childhood throwbacks, favorites from family vacations or that one song you used to play every morning with a sibling on your way to school together. For friends, choosing songs that represent some of your favorite memories together will bring instant smiles to their faces.
ENEALE PICKETT AND THE
NECESSITY FOR DISCOMFORT IN SOCIAL CHANGE BY CLAIRE DEROSA, CULTURE WRITER ENEALE PICKETT, PFANIQUE HILL AND DEQUANDRAY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHED BY SAJA ABU-HAKMEH FRANCISCO VALEZQUEZ, JANAÉ HU, ZASHARY TORRES AND KYNALA PHILLIPS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MORGAN WINSTON DECEMBER 2016 | 7
“When you're having critical conversations, you shouldn’t be comfortable. That’s the only thing I’m gonna leave you with. That we have an actual critical conversation to deepen or to grow your analysis, you need to be uncomfortable. ‘Cuz if you’re not giving pushback, no pushback is on you, like internally, then where you gonna be going? It’s just like when you workout, you feel pain but that pain is... your muscles are breaking, so what you’re doing, like mentally, you're breaking what you've been taught as a child. You’re breaking all the prejudice that you have learned over years. You're breaking all of that. And it hurts.” “All White People Are Racist” With each white word stacked boldly on top of one another in a pyramid thrown against signature Badger Red, this message is powerful, evoking, shocking it’s angering. When I posted the recent Badger Herald piece on Eneale Pickett, the creator of these hoodies and a sophomore at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, on Facebook, a friend of mine from high school messaged me not five minutes after clicking “share.” He thought the sweatshirt’s message was flawed and incited a negative generalization of an entire race of people. Just like complimenting someone’s shoes or jacket, Pickett’s main goal behind his clothing line is to spark conversation. And he did just that. This clothing line has received significant media coverage by NBC15, the Washington Times, BET and the Daily Caller, especially after death threats were made against Pickett. However, there hasn’t been much coverage of his message. Bold statements like these cannot be ignored. Pickett wants to dive into discussions about inequalities through 8 | DECEMBER 2016
intersectionalities of race, sexism and homophobia with in-your-face statements on hoodies. One reads, “Attention! Black Men: If You’re Talking About Dismantling a System, You Better Include Patriarchy,” another, “All Men Are Sexist” and “You Can’t be a Revolutionary and Homophobic.” His discussions on intersectionalities are critical to understanding how various hierarchies of power affect different populations - not simply focusing all his attention on one issue. First coined by Columbia professor Kimberlé Crenshaw, intersectionality is a term that recognizes race, class, gender, religion and ability as overlapping factors that construct an individual’s identity. For example, the lives of women of color are fundamentally influenced by both their race and gender; the two cannot be separated. Without addressing all of these components, it becomes nearly impossible to discuss one’s disadvantages and oppressions equitably. Pickett’s well-rounded perspective through an intersectional lense is self-humbling and motivates people to acknowledge innate privileges and analyze how these advantages shape American inequality. Pickett explains his motivation for expressing these messages through his clothing line, saying, “fashion is very vital to movements. Hence why the Black Panthers, they wore all black, afro, beret, like they were legit. Then you have the Civil
Rights movement, you had respectable, you had suits, you had dresses, you had all of that. Fashion is very intentional, especially when it comes to movements.” Pickett’s wording for this movement is very intentional. Controversy arises through confusion surrounding the terms “racism” and “prejudice”. In fact, equating prejudice with racism was a common misunderstanding among upset commenters on social media and newspaper outlets. Black, white, Asian and Hispanic people alike can hold prejudice: a thought or judgement backed up by one’s opinion directed at white people or people of color. Racism, on the other hand, is “prejudice plus power,” as Pickett put it, not a “personality trait.” Declaring that all white people are racist isn’t directing insults at white individuals, rather it is pointing to a larger societal issue: racism works to benefit whiteness. Racism is a system that inherently disadvantages certain groups in institutions such as education, employment, law enforcement, housing and the criminal justice system. Unlike prejudice which is supported only by one’s personal conviction and opinion, racism is backed by a history of legalized discrimination against black and brown bodies. For example, slavery, laws that barred African Americans from learning to read or write during Reconstruction, redlining and the War on Drugs still affect
black Americans today. Although white people may not be actively prejudiced, systemic racism continues to benefit Caucasians. In Pickett’s words, “race is socially constructed.” It isn’t differences in skin color, but the social attitudes and institutional structures created around race that create hierarchy and inequality. A confusion between racism and prejudice may be what elicits accusations that Pickett is being racist by making statements against whites; however, reverse racism does not exist. It cannot exist. Prejudice and hatred can, and do, exist. But there has never been a time where people of color have had the power to make laws that systematically oppress whites. Pickett is simply calling attention to the issue of systemic racism; he is not labeling all whites as hateful, but rather as beneficiaries of an institutionalized system. Several critics think he should articulate his message in a different way. One commenter suggested, “All White People Benefit from Racism” would be a better way of phrasing this statement. When I asked Pickett how altering language of the sweaters would alter the conversation, he asserted, “If I soften it, then it’s not really a conversation. We center the conversation around whiteness. You’re privileged from systematic racism which makes you racist. So, a lot of people think that being called racist is a racial slur and it’s not. I don’t know who told them that; I don’t know where they got that implication from, but it’s a lie. If you look up the term, it’s actually not a racial slur for white people.” Despite negative pushback on his clothing line, Pickett has had a lot of
positive feedback overall. UW-Madison professors have held lessons on his message of systematic inequality, and he’s received praise on social media and affirmations of solidarity from former teachers, friends and strangers alike. Succeeding in his goal of sparking conversation, Pickett has held beneficial discussions about white privilege and the social construction of race with both white and nonwhite students who have come up to him on the street and initiated a conversation. Pickett recounts speaking with a few white students who told him “‘Thank you, because I wanted to say it, but I wasn’t brave enough to say it or to facilitate those conversations by myself. But now that your sweater is there, you can’t ignore it.’ And it’s the method behind my madness because it’s like, it’s like the bold statements you can’t, you can’t, you gotta look at the bold statement.” These sweatshirts should make you squirm in your chair. They should make you want to scream in protest, “But I’m not racist! My family is not racist! Neither are my friends!” They are supposed to make you uncomfortable. This uneasiness is meant to be beneficial. It should motivate white people to break down this unequal system and be allies to not only this important cause, but all those who suffer under the weight of oppression.
Pickett explains, “when you’re having critical conversations, you shouldn’t be comfortable. That’s the only thing I’m gonna leave you with. That we have an actual critical conversation to deepen or to grow your analysis, you need to be uncomfortable. ‘Cuz if you’re not giving pushback, no pushback is on you, like internally, then where you gonna be going? It’s just like when you workout, you feel pain but that pain is... your muscles are breaking, so what you’re doing, like mentally, you’re breaking what you’ve been taught as a child. You’re breaking all the prejudice that you have learned over years. You’re breaking all of that. And it hurts.” Eneale Pickett is a First Wave Scholar at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. The Chicago West Side native has been an activist since he was young and intends on teaching in Chicago Public Schools, where he can directly impact the futures of youth in his home community. Pickett recently released a mixtape discussing inequalities in education called L.I.F.E. (Living In a Ferocious Environment) Listen to it here: https://soundcloud.com/ enealepickett/sets/life You can find Pickett’s clothing line, which features apparel tackling issues of race, gender and class, among many others, at Insert Apparel. DECEMBER 2016 | 9
The Outfit
ALGORITHM BY ALEXA CARLSON, FASHION EDITOR We all have those mornings. You’ve overslept, your class starts in a mere 30 minutes (and is across campus nonetheless) and you simply don’t have time to plan out an outfit. Yet, you have a full day ahead of you and don’t want to be in an uncomfortably awkward outfit all day. So, how do you whip together a foolproof look in the blink of an eye? Follow these five key steps:
1. Know your staples: Everyone has those favorite pieces in their wardrobe that they always go back to. Take note of them and maybe invest in a few duplicates so you know you’ll always have a backup. Maybe this means having a healthy collection of darkwash skinny jeans, white v-neck tees or an army of chunky sweaters. Pay attention to what works for you! Don’t make the mistake of throwing on something that you’re not confident in. Feeling uncomfortable will just add to the stress your lateness has already induced.
2. Keep your closet organized: This is one way to prevent stress ahead of time. There are a few different routes to go when it comes to organization. Here are two options, but the possibilities are endless. As long as everything has a place and is there, you won’t need to sweat it. -O rganize by color: Pick a piece you know you want to wear and then you can automatically narrow down what other pieces will work with it based on what colors are compatible. -O rganize by style: Pick a bottom from one section of your closet, a top from another and then move on to shoes. It’s just like an assembly line!
3. Check the Weather: Seriously. It only takes a couple seconds and pays off big time. Glance at the weather app on your phone to check the temperature and see if there will be any sort of precipitation that day. 10 | DECEMBER 2016
-T emperature: Know what type of outerwear you feel most comfortable in based on the temperature. If you really can’t decide, do a little recon by taking a quick peek out your window to see what other people are walking around in. -S now/Ice: Don’t you dare pull out your UGGs unless you want to slip and die. Reach for the Sorels or Duck boots. -R ain: Waterproof shoes are a must. Walking around in wet shoes is a surefire way to have a bad day. Also, it goes without saying, a waterproof jacket or at least an umbrella will be needed as well. -H igh Winds: Factor in some extra chill to the temperature and aim for some outerwear that will block the gusts.
4. Keep in mind your schedule: Know what you have planned for the day. If you have a major event like a job interview, one would hope you already planned your outfit in advance. However, a major study day could mean that a comfy look is key, while lunch or dinner with a friend may call for some jeans and a nice sweater.
5. Keep it Simple: Being in a rush is not the time to put together a Vogueworthy look. Keep it simple and you’ll always come across as chic and effortless, even if your hair is full of dry shampoo and you barely had time to brush your teeth. Consider a timeless white tee and jeans combo, comfy athleisure look or a one-piece outfit like a dress or romper. Follow these steps, breathe and for God’s sake don’t forget deodorant.
MARIECLAIRE.COM
The Rise and Fall of the Nasty Galaxy By Meg Rotter, Editor in Chief
T H E R I S E A N D FA L L OF THE NASTY GALAXY BY MEG ROTTER, EDITOR IN CHIEF As I read Sophia Amoruso’s memoir “#Girlboss” this past summer, I daydreamed about her rags-to-riches life from my beach towel, fantasizing that I, too, could one day become an e-commerce mogul. However, Amoruso’s Cinderella story has been losing steam recently, with her company Nasty Gal filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Nasty Gal is an e-commerce site that was founded by Amoruso in 2006. The site, which sells vintage pieces, their personal collection and work from other boutiques,1 rose to massive popularity due to Amoruso’s social media engagement with her target demographic. Continuing to offer clothing for “the girl in progress,” Nasty Gal tailors to young women with unique and trendy style. Although Forbes estimated that Nasty Gal had surpassed $300 million in revenue by 2015,2 the company is currently facing bankruptcy, legal issues and disgruntled employees, causing confusion for fans of the e-commerce giant. “About Us.” Nasty Gal.
1
Safronova, Valeriya. “Nasty Gal’s Path to Bankruptcy.” New York Times. November 11, 2016. 2
While Nasty Gal’s CEO made a statement saying the company filed for bankruptcy due to an increasing gap between topline growth and profitability, others continue to speculate about additional potential causes.3 According to an article on Jezebel, the company culture has become increasingly toxic, partially due to the appointment of Sheree Waterson as the new CEO.4 After multiple rounds of layoffs, loss of company perks and questionable motives for employee termination, Nasty Gal’s employees have become increasingly unhappy, giving the company a rating of 2.7 out of 5 on Glassdoor. One user, in a review from July 30, 2016, spoke out in response to management saying, “I don’t even know where to start – clueless, delusional, dishonest, no accountability, no strategy whatsoever.” Along with disgruntled employees, the company has also faced a number of
lawsuits in recent years, with former employees alleging wrongful termination and smaller designers reporting copyright infringement. In 2011, Nasty Gal went to court for allegedly infringing upon the Hells Angels trademark, and later returned to face suits filed by two different jewelry designers. With legal costs quickly adding up, the company most likely faced a significant increase in spending. Although Amoruso has stumbled in recent months, she is far from failure. With a successful #Girlboss podcast, her new “Nasty Galaxy” book and a Netflix original series set to premiere in 2017, Amoruso has a lot to look forward to. In an Instagram post from Amoruso’s personal account on November 23, she shared an image which said, “What is coming is better than what is gone,” sending a message to all her followers that she remains positive.
O’Connor, Clare. “As Nasty Gal Files Bankruptcy, Founder Sophia Amoruso’s Fortune Decimated.” Forbes. November 11, 2016. 3
Merlan, Anna. “’Everything Really Hit Rock Bottom’: How Nasty Gal’s Culture Went Nasty.” Jezebel. July 17, 2015. 4
DECEMBER 2016 | 11
HIGH SHINE
No matter whether you’re celebrating a winter holiday or not, the snowy, chilly months call for a little sparkle to pick up our spirits. Sequins, glitter or iridescent looks automatically put anyone in the mood to celebrate. BY ALEXA CARLSON & ASHLEY NG ARISSA MILTON, AUDREY HANSA, KAYLA WASSERMAN AND QIAN YI PHOTOGRAPHED BY CLAIRE GRUMMON HAIR & MAKEUP COURTESY OF PAUL MITCHELL THE SCHOOL MADISON: CAILEE SCHMIEDING, JAUNTE WILLIS, JAYLA PORTER-YOUNG, MAISIE ALSTEEN AND THIEN HUONG SPECIAL THANKS TO REVEL
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PANTS | EXPRESS TOP | BYER TOO FAUX FUR COAT | BANANA REPUBLIC NECKLACE | STYLIST’S OWN SHOES | FOREVER 21
SWEATER | ANN TAYLOR SKINNY SCARF | BANANA REPUBLIC EARRINGS | FRANCESA’S COLLECTION DECEMBER 2016 | 13
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TOP | MATILDA SKIRT | THE LIMITED SHOES | FOREVER 21 CHOKER | FRANCESCA’S COLLECTION
DRESS | STYLIST’S OWN JACKET | BAR III NECKLACE | STYLIST’S OWN DECEMBER 2016 | 17
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Un giorno alla Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Moderna TRANSLATION: A DAY AT THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXANDRA FOLINO, CONTRIBUTING WRITER 20 | DECEMBER 2016
Free from any obligation to aesthetic beauty, contemporary art is renowned for subverting all conventions and often can be wild, off-putting or jarringly cerebral. It can be loaded with social commentary, simply exist to evoke a certain feeling, can present us with a specific concept or draw attention to a particular medium or material. Sitting on the Viale Belle Arti (the Avenue of Beautiful Art) in Rome, the more than 1,000 works in La Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea are no exception.
GUSTAV KLIMT | LE TRE ETĂ
GNAM is nestled into Valle Giulia, next to the spacious Villa Borghese which boasts its own gallery. Marked by aesthetically beautiful and age-old Italian pieces, Galleria Borghese is home to a vast assortment of artwork, from Caravaggio to Bernini. Even more, GNAM props itself in sight of the National Etruscan Museum, creating a stark juxtaposition between old and new art, as if existing to mock one another. Yet, GNAM produces nothing shy of renowned works of art from both nationally and internationally recognized artists. Wandering its halls, the surrounding walls hold nearly two centuries of modern and contemporary art. We can admit it - art can be pompous and pretentious. It is often as discouraging as it is decadent. Yet, one does not need to have an eye for contemporary art to appreciate this gallery. GNAM has undergone an extensive series of renovations throughout the past century, and just recently re-opened its doors to the public. Upon its foundation, the museum had neither a collection or permanent residence. Today, the building and its collections stand seamlessly, as if they had never endured such a tiresome journey through time. From the newly renovated halls, to the meticulous attention paid to its curation, down to the sip of a strong Italian espresso in the cafe on the main floor, there is something for everyone to appreciate.
CLAUDE MONET | NINFEE ROSA
On a Saturday afternoon, I devoted the day to the Roman museum, expecting nothing shy of excellence and was not disappointed. The entrance of GNAM lies at the top of a wide staircase that, courtesy of its grandeur, makes a visitor feel like a small child. Eight large Corinthian columns create a large portico that is adorned with inscription, sculpture and decor on its top. The original building, which was completed in 1915, went through a series of expansions first in the 1930s, and again in the 2000s. Today, its glass doors slice open as you approach them, calling you in. The museum provides ample space for interaction with the art, allowing for DECEMBER 2016 | 21
ADRIAN PACI | THE LINE
intimate moments of reflection. GNAM is free from the pushing and shoving that is ever-so-common in the museums of The Eternal City. After passing some of the temporary collection, a man asked me to take a photograph of him in front a Gustav Klimt piece. I responded in Italian, but my accent isn’t well-developed yet. I took the images as his crooked smile peeped through his whiskers. Handing him the camera back, he muttered “thank you” before sauntering away with the smile still plastered across his face. This man’s admiration of the Klimt piece was encouraging to me, actually pushing me to look twice. The image, entitled Le Tre Etá (1905), features three women depicting each stage of life. The Austrian artist created a series of painted intricacies to provide us with an accessible depiction. While the women vary in age, their nakedness and intertwined nature suggests a theme of motherhood. Soon I find myself looking at Ninfee Rosa, a late 19th century Claude Monet piece which aims to translate a scene from his garden onto the canvas. Its lavenders and greens create a captivating continuity in the piece. Luca Rento’s Ninfee, 17 Giugno 2004 14.08.45 and 14.06.30 sit across from Monet’s piece as a juxtaposition. Featuring two images that capture a 22 | DECEMBER 2016
collection of lily pads, Rento’s Ninfee pieces distinctly resemble Monet’s painting. They are framed by large white panels that look roughly the size of Monet’s piece, yet are inset and lit up, like television screens. I wonder for a moment if the glowing screens from across the gallery space ruin the Monet, creating too severe of a contrast. But the depth added to the gallery experience is due to the strong use of juxtaposition, with precise curation pushing viewers to think more deeply than if the pieces were separated. With curation of this nature, we are taught to consider not only what a work may mean individually, but also encouraged to consider its context in time and its relation to other works of differing styles. I wander into a space where Gli Emigranti by Angiolo Tommasi stands opposite a few contemporary works by Adrian Paci such as The Line, and the film Centro di Permanenza Temporanea. Tommasi’s naturalist painting depicts immigrants at the Port of Livorno in 1895 Italy, as they wait to embark on their journeys overseas. The painting was created amidst political and territorial unification when many cities and towns were fraught with social chaos and poverty. Paci’s work presents us with a modern day social commentary on immigration.
Centro di Permanenza Temporanea, a five-minute film, features a large group of people on an airplane runway, approaching a gangway in a line. One by one, they climb the steps, in preparation to board. About three minutes into the film, the camera slowly begins to pan outward, and it soon becomes clear that there is no airplane for them at all. The camera cuts to clips of their faces: anticipating and resilient. Meanwhile, other planes take off from behind them. The Line (2007) features two images of motifs from the film. There seems to be an inseparable connection from Paci’s identity as an immigrant. With these pieces centered around the theme of immigration, the curator encourages us to think about each individual representation, as well as their relation to one another. What are the similarities and differences between these people? What has kept its permanence throughout time? The combined richness of the collection and strong curatorship made leaving the museum difficult. To delay my departure, I stopped at the cafe. With a coffee in front of me, I opened my small notebook. At once, I began to jot down the names of pieces that were ringing in my brain as fast as I could – as if departing would mean forgetting.
LOVE CHEAP THRILLS:
SEEKING AN ADRENALINE RUSH BY BRIANA LERNER, LIFESTYLE WRITER PHOTO COURTESY OF NELL EICHTEN “Oh man, what a rush!” For some of the more everyday actions, like sending a risky text, leaving for class a few minutes late or turning in a paper five minutes before the deadline, the rush is not all that overwhelming. Still, daring yourself to push the boundaries of what is considered “safe” can put you at risk for unforeseen consequences. Maybe that person will leave your daring text unread, you will arrive to class late or miss the looming deadline. More than likely, however, those choices pose no real threat. For more memorable activities, like plunging down a vertical water slide, flooring the gas pedal on the highway and walking through a terrifying haunted house, your body responds. It sends adrenaline rushing through your body, telling it to prepare for danger. This wellknown fight-or-flight chemical elevates blood pressure and increases heart rate. Many people crave this adrenaline rush, seeking it out by performing once-ina-lifetime activities such as bungee jumping, cliff diving or, in the case of UW-Madison sophomore Nell Eichten, skydiving. Eichten said she loves thrill-seeking, whether it be ziplining, mountain hiking or scuba diving. “Skydiving was an incredible experience that I only needed once… I went skydiving to develop new life experiences, emotions and gain a new perspective,” Eichten said. “Adrenaline is a form of mental clarity in which your mind stops any unnecessary and wandering thoughts and allows
Eichten, far left, and friends, during their skydiving experience extreme focus on one matter; what you’re doing right now and fully experiencing it.” Some people think that seeking this life-threatening sensation is absolutely insane and would prefer hitting ‘send’ on that scary text. Upping your game by engaging in extreme thrill-seeking, like cliff diving or mountain climbing, can improve your outlook on life, according to Eichten. “It allowed me to increase my sense of worth and productivity as a person. The
more experiences I obtain and the more knowledge I gain, the more comfortable I feel with the passing of time and shortening of my life.” Engaging in sensation-seeking behavior allows us to feel alive, accomplished and present in the moment. Also, we can find ourselves happy that we “jumped” (pun very intended) out of our comfort zone. Many of us are too afraid to take risks, but risks are what makes life worth living.
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flus h & sparkle
WRITTEN BY CASSIE HURWITZ AND CLAUDIA PREVETE, LIFESTYLE WRITERS MAKEUP BY CASSIE HURWITZ & CLAUDIA PREVETE SAMANTHA KRUSIC AND LEAH LEVY PHOTOGRAPHED BY VICTORIA LEE As the holiday season approaches, it’s fitting that our decorations are not the only thing glittering and glistening. The cold weather is the perfect time to match your makeup to the forecast. Mimic the rush of color that comes to cold winter cheeks with blush, and sparkle as bright as your tree with highlighter. Grab a fluffy brush and dust a red or berry-toned blush over the apples of your
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cheeks. The bright flush will look like you have been playing out in the snow, and will pair especially well with multiple coats of mascara and shimmering highlight. The look of a strong highlight has been having a moment for, well, longer than just a moment, so take advantage of the twinkle of the holiday spirit and play up your beauty game.
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2016 Wisconsin Triennial: A RUSH OF FRESH TALENT WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMELIA FAIST, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT For 38 years, the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art has hosted the Wisconsin Triennial to bring together a fresh collection of art that represents current themes in the contemporary art world within the state’s boundaries.1 Ranging from performance art to sound installations to more traditional art forms, such as painting and photography, this year’s exhibition does not disappoint. The exhibition, which opened September 23 and runs through January 8, 2017, fills the lobby, several galleries and the rooftop sculpture garden, giving crucial exposure to local artists. It “[brings] forward some artists early in their career or who haven’t been widely recognized, as well as show new directions by more established artists,” Stephen Fleischman, MMoCA director, said.2 Featuring 34 artists ranging from UW-Madison students to artists with national reputations, the exhibition provides a diverse display of pieces. It highlights important political issues, not only giving young artists a voice, but creating a unique and enriching experience for the viewer. UW art department faculty member Emily Arthur’s piece Songbirds (top left), a four piece acrylic and screen-printed series, is connected by birds. At first glance, the work is a pleasing combination of bright, contrasting colors, with fine intricacies revealing themselves through further examination. Arthur incorporated the phrase “just because you can’t see it doesn’t mean it’s not there” partially concealed by a bird in the foreground. The phrase functions as an ode to the slew of environmental concerns which are central to her Native American heritage. DNA code scattered in Wisconsin Triennial Teaching Page (Madison Museum of Contemporary Art, 2016). 2 mmoca.org 1
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the background strengthens the scientific narrative while providing reference to her heritage. The bright pink Mandarin characters read “wo de tian,” and are visible to State Street passersby in Helen Lee’s neon glassblowing installation entitled OMG (bottom left). Lee, a glassblower hailing from China, explores the obstacles of first-generation Americans through her art. A play on the language gap struggle, the text is translated “my day” in English, and is the equivalent of the phrase “OMG” in English. Her choice of bright pink neon was deliberate as it mesmerizes viewers and draws them in to experience the impact of her message. UW-Stout professor Amy Fichter’s piece Black Tern, an archival inkjet print, is part of her 2015 series Remnants. It was captured with a toy Holga camera, requiring great patience and careful measurements. She chose the unconventional camera for the soft, intriguing quality of the photographs it produces. Viewing the work as a sort of meditation, Fichter hopes that the beauty revealed through her piece will spark a search for beauty outside of it. As one of the few collaborations included in the exhibition, Andrew Salyer and Katie Schaag brought a fresh perspective to the role of the viewer in their piece Performing MMoCA. Their installation, a clear bin of pins reading “(performing)” adjacent to a stack of information cards, invites guests to take a pin and, while holding it, notice their stance and relationship with their surroundings. The cards give instructions to continue wearing the pins outside of the exhibition, remaining conscious of the performance people embark on every day.
NEW BEAUTY LAUNCHES TO
RUSH FOR BY CASSIE HURWITZ, LIFESTYLE WRITER
2017 is just around the corner, meaning all of your favorite beauty brands will be releasing stunning new products and collections. Gush over luxury lip glosses, affordable concealer palettes and exciting collaborations in this guide to the upcoming season’s makeup releases. Many brands are simply updating their color selections, however, a select few are creating completely new collections. Check out the new shades, reworked brands and fun partnerships ahead in the new year.
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YSL Street Art Collection
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MAC Makeup Art Cosmetics MAC shocked the makeup world when they announced a collection of 50 new products, designed by three famous makeup artists. Each artist has an incredible repertoire of beautiful makeup looks, and, together, the three have used their talents to design the new collection. Launching in January, the focus of the line is to mirror Fashion Week’s biggest beauty trends. Not all products have been announced yet. However, silver lipstick, bronze strobing sticks and pigment paints are among the many interesting previews.
The classic luxury brand is releasing a beautiful spring collection full of new, limited edition blush, eye shadow, lip and nail shades. As part of the collection, the brand is releasing new Baby Doll Kiss & Blush Duo Sticks that are designed for ombré lips or contoured cheeks. There are six color combinations, suitable for multiple skin tones and occasions. These goodies launch in January; do not miss out!
Fenty Beauty by Rihanna Another exciting new makeup line is a collaboration between Rihanna and LVMH. The team has been tight-lipped about what kinds of products will be released, but Rihanna’s rocker-chic style is sure to be a large influence. Although the brand has been in the works for a few years, fall 2017 marks the release of these secretive, long-awaited products. Until then, channel your inner-Rihanna with her extensive perfume line.
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Maybelline This January, the favorite drugstore brand is releasing a few new products that are more affordable versions of high-end staples. Baby Lips, their increasingly popular lip balm line, is expanding to include Color Balm Crayons. There are eight shades, each promising to feel like a light balm but apply like a bold lipstick. Additionally, Maybelline created the Strobing Liquid Highlighter, which can be applied anywhere on the face for shimmering, highlighted skin. Lastly, the brand announced a Color Correcting Kit. Complete with green, yellow, orange and nude shades. This palette will help conceal any dark marks on various skintones.
Whether it is a new lippie, an affordable palette or music and makeup’s exciting collaboration, be sure to check out 2017’s upcoming beauty releases. There is something for everyone, regardless of style or budget. You just might end up finding a new favorite product! DECEMBER 2016 | 29
All of the Lights Bring on the night. ASHLEY INGBRETSON AND CECILIA MECOZZI PHOTOGRAPHED BY MORIAH ZIMAN CREATIVE DIRECTORS: KELSEY DAYKIN AND REILLY KOCH CREATIVE TEAM: MIA BOULUKOS, BROOKE KOMAS, EVA-DELILAH WIELAND AND GEORDON WOLLNER MAKEUP BY MICHAEL KLIMMECK CLOTHING COURTESY OF FREE PEOPLE MADISON 30 | DECEMBER 2016
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R E B E L L I N G AG A I N ST
AGEISM BY TAYLOR PALMBY, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ART BY HANNAH BOURGAULT
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Mary Helen Conroy and Carol Elizabeth Larson are two retired Madison women. These two started a podcast a little over a year ago called Retiree Rebels. Since the podcast’s launch, there have been over 8,400 downloads of the show. The podcast centers around the notion that retirement is not the end, but instead can be a new beginning with endless possibilities. We sat down with Mary Helen to discuss the podcast, millennials and most importantly, ageism.
Moda Magazine: How did you decide to create a podcast?
Mary Helen Conroy: Carol and I had
a cup of coffee, and we realized we both had this sort of ‘what do you do when you’re not young anymore’ feeling. Carol has over 30 years in broadcast journalism, so she works on production, and I have experience as a librarian, so I focus on the information aspect. Marrying those talents is what has made Retiree Rebels work.
MM: What inspired the idea behind
Retiree Rebels? MHC: If you watch TV, all you see on TV is how you’re supposed to save gobs of money, and then when you have enough money you can retire and sit on a beach somewhere for the rest of your life. If you take a 50-year-old right now, their life expectancy is about 85-95, so they’ve got 35 years of sitting on that beach and that’s what they tell us about retirement, so it’s really hard. I knew when I left my career job at 61 no one would ever hire me again, being a woman of a certain age with a salary level they couldn’t match, and I knew I could accomplish a lot more stuff, because life’s a daring adventure, and I’m not done yet. I knew I could create a life on the internet, that no one would be able to judge me through the ageism stereotype I would meet if I was in the workplace. So, what we wanted to do was talk about the life issues of retirement. When you retire it’s the same as when college students leave school. You’re no longer a student, you no longer have the rights and privileges of a student. Everything you’ve known as a student for 20 some years is gone, and that’s what happens to us. It’s the same transition when we move from having a career for a long time to not having a career and all of a sudden you don’t have a name tag, you can’t give anyone a business card, so everything that was wrapped around who I was as a person is gone at the retirement party. Carol always says people think you left your brains at the door of the retirement party and you don’t have them anymore when you walk out, and we wanted to address this issue and help people move past it.
MM: What exactly is ageism? MHC: If you think about ageism, it’s a continuum of always being discriminated against because of your age, so when you were a little girl somebody would say you’re too young to do that. Just because you were a certain age, you were too young or too old to do that, and that’s where ageism starts. Ageism is a form of discrimination that connects us all. It’s not gender related, it’s not race related, it’s not ethnically related. Ageism hits us all from birth to death. Ashton Applewhite* says it’s more likely you know somebody that’s a different race than you, than you know someone that’s ten years younger
“I knew when I left my career job at 61 no one would ever hire me again, being a woman of a certain age with a salary level they couldn’t match, and I knew I could accomplish a lot more stuff, because life’s a daring adventure, and I’m not done yet.” or ten years older than you. If I isolate myself and only talk to people in my generation, that’s damn boring. That’s not where growth is. Ageism is such a stupid thing we all do based on a birthdate and it should be much more about how alive we are and how much we want to connect with people.
MM: When did you first become
passionate about ageism? MHC: I graduated a semester early at 20, so I was always the youngest and it’s hard being young. I was the youngest in my field, and it was hard to be in charge of people that were decades older than me. It was difficult to command respect at times. I remember what this was like and thinking that I could take the world by its horns if someone would just believe me, that I could do it. That’s ageism, that the only reason I would be doubted about this is because of my birth certificate. Then, when I retired, it was knowing that
I am a talented woman even though my driver’s license shows my age. I’ve got lots left, and I knew my age would cause me to be discriminated against in the workforce.
MM: How to we break down this ageism
barrier? MHC: We communicate like this. We’ve got this information exchange that we could easily do if we knew how to communicate between generations and not put up these barriers, but we’re never in the same space. We need to be able to have spaces where we can have a cup of coffee or wine and giggles or whatever we want to do. We are a lot more alike than we are different, generationally as well as people. There is some way that we could connect very closely, whether it’s the number of people in our family, what we like to do, where we grew up. It also has to do with always having the mindset of saying “yes.” Whether you’re 20 or you’re 70, say yes to life. It’s so easy to say “I can’t go to that show tonight,” “I can’t meet you for a drink because I have a test” or “I have—” whatever. It’s important to say yes.
MM: How do millennials face this ageism as well?
MHC: You are a really maligned
generation, and yet you are exactly the generation we wanted you to be. This is just me, I’m just one person, but we wanted our children to have more than we had, we wanted you to be brighter, we wanted you to be kinder, we wanted you to be more world wise and you went and did it. Now we don’t know what to do with you, because we grew up with “me before anyone else” mentality. We had so many outside measures, and we had all kinds of rules. You don’t have any of those rules and that pisses us off. We’re counting on you to make this better, because we really messed it up, and that’s why we are so hard on you. Ageism spans across every age group, but it doesn’t have to. We can step across the barrier and reach out to those who are older and younger than we are. We have so much to learn from people with different life experiences than our own. So, make the effort to meet someone who is ten years older and have a cup of coffee with them. You just might learn something you never expected, and maybe even make a new friend. I know I did. *Applewhite is referencing the work of Cornell gerontologist Karl Pillemer. Found in Applewhite’s New York Times article, “You’re How Old? We’ll Be In Touch.”
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SCRAMBLING FOR TIME:
HAIR & MAKEUP IN A HURRY BY ASHLEIGH PERRY AND MADDY SELNER, CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MADDY SELNER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MEREDITH JOHNSON
Whether it is because you naively thought you could handle an 8:00 a.m. class, or you are always hopelessly late, everyone seems to be in a hurry. That being said, there is always that one thing in your routine that you simply cannot bear to lose. For me, it is makeup. Although I love the process, I always seem to be running behind. Even though I find makeup to be therapeutic, I often skip the application process and regret it later. What I have found is that there is that there is no reason for anyone to fall into this cycle because there are plenty of ways to efficiently pamper yourself without compromising your final look. Here are some tips for making your makeup routine quick enough for your hectic schedule.
1. 2. 3.
Find a foundation that is no fuss. I use L’Oreal Infallible Pro-Glo. This foundation
is ideal for quick application because it gives great coverage without a lot of product or excessive blending. Also, it can be applied with just your hands to make things quicker, without losing any of its effectiveness.
Have a go-to mascara. Let days where you are swimming in time be the days where you test out a new mascara. All too often I have found myself spending way too much time on my mascara because I am trying a new one out that I can’t seem to make work without applying a million layers. My current go-to is It Cosmetic’s Superhero Elastic Stretch Volumizing Mascara.
Decide what colors fit you best. Whether it be lips, eyes or cheeks, knowing
what colors look best on you helps cut down on the time you spend shuffling through your makeup collection. My go-to shades are always plum-colored. This works for both eyeshadow and lipstick, cutting down on trial and error time.
4. 5.
Use your hands. Don’t be afraid of just using the bare minimum. All too often we get caught up using ten different brushes that all do the same thing. When you’re in a rush, use your fingers to get the same effect, saving you time and heartache.
6.
Always have “top shelf” products at the ready. Keep them on your dresser or
Cut out the excess. Do you really need to contour? Will you survive if you don’t bake
your under eyes for ten minutes? Stick to what you love about your makeup routine. For me, this means focusing on eyes and lips. Sometimes I will cut out my foundation just to focus on this and save a little more time. Discover what makes you feel the best about your makeup and what you love to do. Cutting out the excess steps on a day where you don’t have much time can make it more special when you are really trying to step up your makeup for a formal affair or night out. in your bathroom so that when you are getting ready they are easy access. Having the products you use the most out when you need them will cut down on the time it takes you to get ready. Instead of digging through your cluttered makeup bag just to find your favorite lipstick, simply keep it in the same place for easy access.
All these steps come in handy for days when you’re in a rush or when you just want a no fuss makeup day. Makeup should be something you look forward to, not a burden. By finding what works for you, you can calm your morning down and start your day on a less chaotic note. 42 | DECEMBER 2016
Now that you’ve gotten your makeup figured out, it’s time to move onto your hair. We all have the same amount of hours in the day as Beyonce, but unfortunately we are not all blessed with a hair stylist that spends hours helping us look presentable. You could slick your locks back into a ponytail, as it is far too easy to fall back on, or switch it up and try some other simple, cute and quick styles. Here are a few easy hairstyles to turn those panic-inducing mornings into an effortlessly fresh result.
MESSY CHIGNON For those mornings when you hit the snooze button one too many times only to find yourself showerless and in a frantic rush, messy can be converted into chic. This low chignon look is easily achieved by gathering all your hair at the nape of your neck. With a few bobby pins, you can transform your hair from slovenly to sleek by DECEMBER 2016bun. | 43 taming your tendrils into a classy messy
THE HUN With a half-up do, you can easily repurpose last night’s texture with an out-of-your-face style, creating the illusion that you actually woke up in time to get ready for class. If you want to achieve a messy look the right way, then the half bun is your holy grail. The half-up bun allows you to be trendy without being too casual.
44 | DECEMBER 2016 FAUX FUR JACKET, SWEATER & TROUSERS | GOOD STYLE SHOP
TWIST IT OUT For those second-day hair mornings, a little twist can hide any grease settling in your hair. You can add your own flare with fancy bobby pins as well. This look is also perfect for those growing out their bangs, or if you want to hide your roots.
You do not need to sacrifice beauty for your few extra minutes (or hours) of sleep. The key is finding the cutest, most time-efficient options to add to your routine. Kick the drab pony out of the rotation and still have time to add a bit of makeup, giving you the boost of confidence and energy you need. Taking on the day always feels impossible when you’re running behind. However, by taking a few minutes to prepare yourself, you will feel more put-together and capable of succeeding in your ventures. Don’t let the rush keep you down. DECEMBER 2016 | 45
PROFILE:
JON SILIGNAVONG ST U D E N T DJ WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JENN CHEN, ARTS WRITER With round tortoiseshell glasses and a bright smile, Jon Silignavong, a UWMadison junior from Rockford, Illinois, is a pre-med student by day and a passionate DJ by night. Majoring in biochemistry with a global health certificate, he is likely to be found tapping a beat with his pencil in his science classes. I spoke with Silignavong about what brought out his love for electronic music and how he has evolved as an artist. Moda Magazine: When did you get started with music in general? What was the first band you loved? Jon Silignavong: I didn’t really care about music until fifth grade. I think the first artist that I loved was Akon; that was a good time. Then I switched over 46 | DECEMBER 2016
to more indie rock later on. I actually hopped on many different genres, like after indie rock I went to emo, then back to indie rock, then electronic. It’s all over the place. With emo, [I started listening to it because] it was the music culture in my city; a lot of people were into that. Whenever I went to house shows, there was always emo music.
It’s more… experimental electronic.
MM: What music groups are you in?
JS: It’s mainly just in our basement, the DJing. Oh yeah, [I do have a name,] it’s Nautique. I really love water…I think I came up with it when I was in France, when I made a lot of music.
JS: Stevie Wonder Bread [is] the main band I’m in. [Our music is a mix of] indie rock, electronic [and] experimental. Our drummer says it’s “New Age Gospel Core.” I don’t know what that means, I just go with it. I play guitar mainly…sometimes [keyboard]. I also write electronic music, [but] not under the same name [Nautique].
MM: What kind of music do you play? JS: Recently I’ve been doing a lot of DJing. I do a lot of Jersey House music... It’s more upbeat, fast tempo. People can dance to it. I do a lot of trap also. MM: Do you have a current DJ name?
MM: What are some of your favorite artists? JS: My favorite DJ is Giraffage… he’s my
inspiration for electronic music. There are two other [artists]: Tokimonsta and then Nosaj Thing. They’re all electronic [producers]. MM: What do you like about electronic music? JS: I like to dance a lot. That’s the main thing I like about electronic music. You can’t really sing along to it, but...you get to feel everything. MM: How did you get started with electronic music? JS: I started about a year ago, my drummer actually introduced me to some electronic devices. I hopped onto different media platforms, such as Ableton Live, which is a software that a lot of musicians use for electronic… It’s very easy to use and you can manipulate it in many ways. MM: What kind of DJ tools do you use? JS: I have two different boards, one is called the Ableton Launchpad. It’s a bunch of little squares, you get to trigger different samples...I don’t think it’s [that hard to use], as long as you...remember what you program it to. I also have the Akai MPD 32, which a lot of people use. It’s another instrument [that] I mainly use for producing things. MM: Has your Laotian-American background influenced your music at all? Have you used any samples from Laos music?
trippy and weird. They incorporate many different sounds that you don’t hear in other songs...I would say that’s what influenced me most with my college years music, just because it was so different. MM: What do you feel when you’re writing music and creating songs? JS: Whenever I make it, I don’t think about things at all. I guess it reflects my current mood...I can’t really control it. I can’t just sit down somewhere and [think] okay I’m going to write something... It just happens. I think that’s the most fun part, the random inspirations. I’ll start something, maybe a 10 second sample... can’t continue [it]. And then I’ll come back maybe a couple of weeks later and [realize I can do] something with [it]. I’ll make a ton a samples and then not touch them for a while. I have [a lot of samples] just sitting there, I don’t know if I’ll do anything with any of them. MM: You said before that you make your music mainly for yourself. Would you want other people to feel something from your music? JS: It would be cool, but my goal isn’t to become famous... I don’t think that’s what I want to do. It’s more of a personal art for me. I can’t listen to my own music, I just make it...It just feels really weird. I won’t listen to [my own music often] but...I’ll occasionally [listen to Stevie Wonder Bread]. It’s more collaborative.
MM: Do you feel like you’ve grown as an artist since you started? JS: I’ve definitely improved. [I started learning guitar] in middle school, I was in a band in sixth grade, and I’d never played guitar before...They just put me on guitar...I remember that the one song we played... was “I Gotta Feeling” by the Black Eyed Peas...I’ve definitely improved after that. I had influences [from] the different music scenes I’d been in. I used to be in the emo type of music scene, and that has definitely influenced how I play guitar. Right now it’s more jazzy. MM: Do you have any plans for the future? Going onto medical school, do you think you’ll lose a lot of time for your music? JS: Even right now I don’t have a lot of time to play music…[Music] means a lot to me...I still am in love with indie rock music. I switched over because it’s convenient to make electronic music, all you need is your laptop. If you want you can use different instruments, but you could just do it on the go. I think that’s the main reason why I do more electronic. With indie rock, you have to bring your guitar around. MM: How do you take criticism? JS: I don’t really pay attention to it. It’s my music, it’s for myself. I don’t mainly do it for other people, I just happen to post [my music online] sometimes.
JS: I was definitely thinking of doing that. I’m still working on one, but I don’t want to make it too different from the original, I don’t want to be offensive to the music. It’s definitely something on my mind, working with old, traditional Laos samples. MM: Any favorite concerts? JS: This past year, my favorite show was FKA Twigs...at Pitchfork Music Festival. Her music was just so beautiful and powerful. [Also] Sufjan Stevens was tied... at Pitchfork. It was… amazing. His show wasn’t acoustic, but it was more like mellow indie folk. MM: Are there any specific songs that you remember listening to or a different kind of style that was new and you haven’t heard before and wanted to create yourself? JS: Freshman year of college, I got really into Animal Collective. Their music is so different from everyone because it’s really Artist links: Nautique Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/jon-silignavong Stevie Wonder Bread Bandcamp: https://steviewonderbread.bandcamp.com/releases DECEMBER 2016 | 47
TRANSIT Moda captures the perpetual motion of life, fashion and transit during quotidian moments of life. The intimate, candid instants of a life in motion are documented during an evening on the transit. A seemingly inconsequential moment of the day becomes liminal, existing between the comings and goings.
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KAILA RUPPEL, ALESSANDRA GAGLIO, JAMES VIALL, JAMESON ZABALLOS PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE DIRECTED BY JAMESON ZABALLOS AND GEORDON WOLLNER WRITTEN BY JAMESON ZABALLOS CLOTHING FROM TWIGS
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Harnessing Your
Holiday Spirit BY SAMANTHA GEORGSON, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAMES ARBAJE There is so much positive energy that comes with the holiday season. Everyone is out preparing themselves, shopping for the perfect presents, enjoying the many seasonal sales and holiday deals. Loved ones rejoice by celebrating with one another and exchanging thoughtful gifts. It is the season of giving that makes everyone feel warm and loved. So, why not take that exciting surge of holiday cheer and put it to good use this year, in the spirit of giving? The holidays are a time to spread joy and be thankful. Everyone deserves to enjoy that warm, fuzzy feeling, and what better way to share yours than to help those less fortunate? Not everyone gets the chance to celebrate with loved ones, exchange gifts and sit down together over a warm meal. For those who do not have this holiday experience, try bringing the festivities to them. We are lucky to have many local organizations that supply opportunities to give back this winter. Whether you’re hoping to donate or volunteer Madison offers many occasions to spread holiday cheer! One well-known organization that provides an opportunity for either kind of participation is the Second Harvest Food Bank. Many common local convenience shops and grocery stores host this charitable organization, offering up their space as a drop off location for any food based contributions or monetary donations. 54 | DECEMBER 2016
Second Harvest partners up with NBC15 every winter to build their holiday campaign “Share Your Holidays to Eliminate Hunger.” This year is their 21st anniversary and they’re hoping to celebrate and ring in the holiday season by raising enough to provide more meals than all of the previous years. There’s no better way to celebrate the holidays than to enjoy a warm meal with friends and family, and this organization provides everyone with the opportunity to give the gift of a delicious holiday meal this year. Another organization familiar to most is the Marine Toys for Tots program. This charity focuses on providing underprivileged families with presents for their children. The many partner stores that sponsor this program provide funding, as well as locations to double as shops and drop-off locations. Local Toys For Tots campaigns are the heart and soul of the Marine Toys For Tots Program. The Dane County campaign is still accepting gifts that can be dropped at any participating Toys“R”Us or Babies“R”Us locations. They also need volunteers and donations. If you want to participate in gift distribution, the information is up on the campaign site and will be taking place at the Alliant Energy Center December 13 through 15. Another charitable organization that makes the list this holiday season is United Way’s Holiday Giving Tree program. This
organization partners with the Dane County Parent Council and the Attic Angels to ensure that underserved families have gifts for the holidays. With the help of local banks, credit unions, fitness centers and other businesses, the Holiday Giving Tree provides holiday gifts for hundreds of children every year. UW-Madison students have a unique way of getting involved with this specific organization. Our residence halls host United Way programs that allow students to donate a gift to a family in need. Visit each floor of Sellery, Witte or Ogg Hall to pick up a gift request card. These locations are also drop-off spots. More details can be found on your gift request cards. One final notable organization is one hosted by our very own Wisconsin State Journal. The Empty Stocking Club is the newspaper’s own charity, a toy depot that raises money via reader donations. These funds are used to buy thousands of gifts and toys for families in need. This organization is always accepting donations and needs volunteers to help with their toy distribution from December 12 through 14. Whether you want to get involved or would simply like to donate towards a cause in the spirit of giving, all of these worthwhile organizations are looking for support. Every little bit helps and is greatly appreciated. Let’s put that rush of holiday cheer to good use this year!
MEMORY TO POPULARITY:
THE CHANGING PURPOSE OF PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH FRIEDLAND, ARTS WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE For more than 15 years, the digital single lens reflex camera has been the staple of the professional photography industry. Designed at a time when film photography was still prevalent, the first DSLR users aimed to display their technical ability through photographs. Today, the desire for a camera’s technological capacity has been overtaken by a need for convenience. This shift in priorities made smartphones the new primary way to take photographs. Smartphones are smaller, quicker and easier to use than the DSLR. As a result, smartphone sales in 2013 increased by 38 percent, while DSLR camera sales decreased by 36 percent.1 The easily accessible smartphone has changed the photography industry from a niche profession to a hobby anyone can take on. With new photograph display platforms associated with smartphones, such as Instagram, it is easier than ever to become a well-known photographer. Not only have smartphones changed the way photographs are taken, they have also altered the use of the pieces altogether. Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat are among the most widely used means of sharing smartphone photography. Photographs posted to Instagram often aim to make the user an Instagram model or otherwise Insta-famous. They are also used to promote brands through giveaways and the sponsored ad feature. Facebook takes a more personal approach to smartphone photography, often used as a way to share memories with friends. Social norms push people to strive for more likes, as they supposedly point to your level of popularity. While Facebook and Instagram photographs are available to all of the user’s friends, Snapchat provides a more personal way to share images. The pictures shared through Snapchat can only be seen for a maximum of ten seconds and are often selfies. Snapchat’s purpose is to give a limited viewing time for photographs, but both Facebook and Instagram also Ben Taylor, “How the Smartphone Defeated the Point-and-Shoot Digital Camera.” PC World. 2013. pcworld.com. 1
have a sense of ephemerality. Photographs captured with smartphones tend to document only small, less significant memories. The use of these pictures to become “internet famous” detracts from the art of photography. Artistic ability is not a prerequisite for sharing smartphone photographs. Professional photographers often use DSLR and other digital cameras aim to capture memories in a more permanent fashion. An op-ed by Johnnie Guerrio, posted on Digital Journal, examines the difference between digital photography and smartphone photography.2 Guerrio believes smartphones have created a world of technology-obsessed, lazy people. “When did making beautiful art in the medium of a photograph be dumbed down to this smartphone nonsense?” he asks.3 Guerrio is pushing people to start using cameras again, whether they are “Nikons, Canons, Kodaks, [or] even the cheap one-time use cameras you can get in Walgreens.”4 Cameras were meant to document memories that would live on forever in its photographer and subject, not function as a proof of popularity to other people. While Guerrio said smartphones are making people lazier, some professional photographers have been switching from DSLR cameras to smartphones. Dean Holland conducted a survey to prove that smartphones are nearly on par with DSLR cameras.5 Fifteen non-photographers looked at photographs taken by various digital, film and smartphone cameras, including Canon EOS models, Fuji Superia 1600, iPhone 5s and Nokia Lumia. The photographs were of the same subject in the same low-light situation. After examining all images, the non-photographers sorted them from best to worst. The photograph Johnnie Guerrio, “Op-Ed: Why Cameras on Smartphones Should be Wiped Out.” Digital Journal. 2013. digitaljournal.com 3 Ibid. 4 Ibid. 5 Dean Holland, “Smartphones Versus DSLR Versus Film.” DPReview. 2014. dpreview.com 2
with the most “best” votes was taken with the Nokia Lumia, a smartphone released in late 2013.6 Those who preferred the Nokia Lumia image also preferred the one taken with the iPhone 5s. Both produced smoother images than the digital and film cameras, which created more detailed photographs. Additionally, participants who ranked the digital cameras highly also did so with the film camera.7 Holland came to the conclusion that while DSLR cameras do produce better images, it all comes down to a matter of taste. Smartphone cameras are advancing quickly, while digital camera quality is developing much more slowly. Additionally, smartphones have the ability to alter the camera function with apps to make them much more similar to DSLR cameras. For example, Manual (iOS) allows the user to control exposure and Light Meter (Android) and Pocket Light Meter (iOS) measure light, just as DSLR cameras do. Smartphone users can also download photograph editing apps, like Photoshop Touch (Android), to alter images to appear more like those DSLR cameras take. While it may seem like professional photography requires an expensive DSLR camera, these functions of smartphones allow anyone with access to one the ability to dabble in the art of photography. Smartphones are clearly evolving to have better photography technology, but the majority of the current use of smartphone photography ends up on social media and is soon forgotten. The use of smartphone photography has divided the photography industry into two parts - hobby photographers who use smartphones and professionals who use DSLR cameras. Smartphone photography allows those without training to take high-quality pictures but it is important to remember the roots of photography and preserve it as an art form.
Ibid. Ibid.
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